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Life in Mexico

by Madame Calderón de la Barca · English · Gutenberg #9364 · 1,322,888 chars · public domain (US)

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Title: Life in Mexico

Author: Madame Calderón de la Barca


        
Release date: November 1, 2005 [eBook #9364]
                Most recently updated: January 2, 2021

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/9364

Credits: Produced by Charles Franks, Marvin A. Hodges and PG Distributed Proofreaders


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LIFE IN MEXICO ***




Produced by Charles Franks, Marvin A. Hodges
and PG Distributed Proofreaders




EVERYMAN'S LIBRARY

664

TRAVEL & TOPOGRAPHY


   Everyman, I will go with thee, and be thy guide,
   In thy most need to go by thy side.


FRANCES CALDERON DE LA BARCA, born in Edinburgh, 1804, the daughter of
William Inglis. After her father's death she settled in America, where she
married the Spanish diplomat, Don Angel Calderon de la Barca. She
accompanied him on his various appointments to Mexico, Washington, and
finally to Madrid, where she was created Marquesa de Calderon de la Barca
by Alfonso XII and died in 1882.




FRANCES CALDERON DE LA BARCA


LIFE IN MEXICO


INTRODUCTION BY MANUEL ROMERO DE TERREROS MARQUES DE SAN FRANCISCO


First published 1843


INTRODUCTION


In the year 1843, two new books took the American public by storm: one was
Prescott's _History of the Conquest of Mexico_, and the other _Life in
Mexico_ by Madame Calderon de la Barca. William Hickling Prescott was
already known as an able historian on account of his scholarly _Reign of
Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain_ which had appeared four years before and
elicited praise from all quarters; but his new work outran the former in
that the author had succeeded in depicting one of the most stirring
episodes of history with the grandeur of an epic and the interest of a
novel.

It was therefore natural that a book with Prescott's endorsement should be
favourably received by the general public; but _Life in Mexico_
immediately attained wide circulation on its own merits, and was received
with unbounded enthusiasm. Soon the slight veil that pretended to hide the
author's name was drawn aside and Madame Calderon de la Barca became
famous in literary and social circles.

Frances Erskine Inglis was born in Edinburgh in the year 1804. Her father,
William Inglis, belonged to a distinguished Scottish family, related to
the Earls of Buchan, and was a grandson of a gallant Colonel Gardiner who
fell in the battle of Prestonpans, while her mother, a Miss Stern before
her marriage, was a celebrated beauty of her time.

Fanny, as Frances was familiarly called, was still very young when her
father found himself in financial difficulties and decided to retire with
his family to Normandy where living was supposed to be cheaper. But
William Inglis died a few years later, and his widow determined to settle
in America. In the United States Mrs. Inglis established a private school
first in Boston, later in Staten Island, and finally in Baltimore, and her
daughter was a great help, for she immediately revealed herself as an
excellent teacher. Besides, Fanny became a great friend of Ticknor,
Lowell, Longfellow, and especially of Prescott, who thought her "ever
lively and _spirituelle_."

In 1836 a Special Diplomatic Mission from Spain arrived at Washington, and
at its head came Don Angel Calderon de la Barca, a gentleman of high
social standing and an accomplished man of letters, who, naturally enough,
soon established literary relations with William Prescott, then at work on
his _History of the Reign of Ferdinand and Isabella_. In this connection
he became acquainted with many of Prescott's friends, the Inglis ladies
among others, and the result was that he fell in love with the
accomplished Fanny, and married her in 1838. Shortly afterwards Don Angel
was appointed Isabel II's Minister to Mexico, the first Spanish Envoy to
the young Republic that had formerly been the Kingdom of New Spain. The
newly married couple, accordingly, started on their journey to Mexico,
which was destined to be a long one, even for those days, for they left
New York on October 27th and did not reach their destination until the
26th of the following December.

Calderon's mission to Mexico lasted somewhat more than two years, during
which time he and his wife, says Prescott, "lived much at their ease," and
"were regaled _en prince_." In spite of Don Angel's delicate diplomatic
duties and her own frequent social engagements and strenuous excursions,
Fanny Inglis Calderon found time to write almost daily letters, most of
them of considerable length, to relatives and friends. These letters
constituted the basis of the present book when they were collected and
published--with certain necessary omissions--simultaneously in London and
Boston in 1843, under the title of _Life in Mexico during a Residence of
Two Years in that Country_. The book was provided with a short but
substantial Preface by Prescott.

That same year saw Don Angel Calderon de la Barca transferred to
Washington as Spanish Minister, a post in which he not only discharged his
diplomatic duties with much ability, but also frequented the literary
circles and even found time to translate several works into Spanish.

In 1853 Calderon was recalled to Spain by his government and arrived at
Madrid on September 17th with his wife, who had recently become a
Catholic. A year later, he was appointed Minister of State in the Cabinet
of the Conde de San Luis, and thus became an actor in the troubled drama
of that period of Isabel II's reign. When finally the unpopularity of the
government culminated in a general rebellion, Calderon managed to escape
the unjust fury of the rabble by hiding first in the Austrian, and later
in the Danish Legation, until he was able to cross the frontier and take
refuge in France. The events that Madame Calderon had witnessed in Spain
moved her to write that entertaining book _The Attache in Madrid_, which,
pretending to be a translation from the German, appeared in New York in
1856.

The Calderons were able to return to Spain after an absence of two years,
but in 1861 Don Angel died at San Sebastian, just when he was expecting to
move to a small villa which was being built for him nearby in picturesque
Zarauz. Hard upon this event Madame Calderon retired to a convent across
the Pyrenees, but shortly afterwards Queen Isabel asked her to come back
and take charge of the education of her eldest daughter, the Infanta
Isabel, a request which, though at first respectfully declined, was
finally accepted by her. From that time on Madame Calderon became the
constant companion of the Infanta Isabel, until the latter's marriage to
the Count of Girgenti in 1868. She then returned to the United States, but
only for a comparatively short time, for as soon as Alfonso XII came to
the throne, Madame Calderon went back to Spain and was created by him
Marquesa de Calderon de la Barca. Thenceforward she led a very quiet life
until her death, in the Royal Palace of Madrid, on February 3rd, 1882.

Any radical change in the form of government is liable to be accompanied
by disorders, and this is even more likely to be true in a country like
Mexico, which has become famous for its frequent political troubles and
has been aptly called "a land of unrest." In the eighteen-forties the
country witnessed many plans, "pronunciamientos" and revolutions, which
could not escape the vigilant mind of Madame Calderon, who often refers to
them with a spice of delicate satire and irony which is not unkindly.
After the long period of peaceful if unexciting viceregal rule, the
government of the new republic had become the prey of political groups,
headed by men who coveted the presidency chiefly impelled by a "vaulting
ambition" which, in most cases "overleapt itself." Madame Calderon drew
faithful portraits of many of the politicians of those days, not stinting
her praise to such men of honour as Bustamante, nor hiding her sympathy
towards the much reviled Santa Anna.

Naturally, as the wife of the Spanish Minister, she feels occasionally
bound to dwell somewhat disparagingly upon the existing state of things,
as compared with the excellences of the former viceregal regime. Thus, on
visiting the older cities and establishments, she lays stress on the great
benefits that the Mother Country had bestowed on her Colonies, an opinion
that, she states, was shared by the most distinguished persons in Mexico,
who missed the advantages of the days of yore: "I fear we live in a
Paradise Lost," she exclaims, "which will not be regained in our days!"

But this does not mean to say that she withholds praise where praise is
due. On more than one occasion she extols the valour of a soldier, the
talent of a Minister like Cuevas, or the honesty and clearsightedness of a
politician like Gutierrez de Estrada; and when she refers to the rivalry
that arose between the different parties, she has unbounded praises for
the cadets of the Military School, for their patriotic conduct and their
loyalty to the legally established government.

In Madame Calderon's time the Mexican upper classes were an extension, so
to speak, of the old viceregal society. Only the very young had not seen
the Spanish flag flying over the public buildings or had not been more or
less acquainted with the last viceroys. The presidential receptions of a
Bustamante or a Santa Anna in the National Palace, just as during the
short reign of Augustin I de Iturbide, were ablaze with brilliant
uniforms, glittering decorations, fine dresses, and rich jewels, while at
private parties the old family names and titles continued to be borne with
the prestige of former colonial days.

On the other hand, the relations between lord and servant are faithfully
portrayed by Madame Calderon de la Barca. Speaking of life in a
_hacienda_, she describes how the lady of the house sat at the piano,
while the employees and servants performed the typical dances of the
country for the benefit of guests and relatives, without suggesting any
idea of equality or disrespect, more or less in the fashion of the Middle
Ages, when the lord and the lady of the manor sat at table with their
servants, though the latter remained rigorously below the salt. With
regard to the lower classes, Madame Calderon always sees the picturesque
side of things which she describes vividly and colourfully.

It is to be regretted (particularly from a Mexican point of view) that
Fanny Inglis, or her editor, should have thought it expedient only to give
the first and last letters of the names of the more prominent persons of
whom she speaks, a system which makes it difficult for a reader of later
days to identify them, except in one or two cases. Many were the intimate
friends of the Calderons, but especially the Conde de la Cortina, a well-
known figure in society and in literary and scientific circles, the
Marques and Marquesa de Vivanco, and the "Guera Rodriguez," (the "Fair
Rodriguez"), a celebrated beauty of her time, who is said to have been
greatly admired by no less a person than Alexander von Humboldt himself!

Naturally enough, Madame Calderon was a competent judge of her own sex and
was alert to the good qualities as well as to the foibles of the ladies of
Mexico, whose excessive fondness for diamonds and, in some cases, too
showy dresses elicit her mild criticism.

Monastic life was one of the features of Mexico at that time. Most cities,
large and small, were full of churches, monasteries, and convents; and
Madame Calderon (who became a Catholic three years later) was not then
well acquainted with the ceremonies and liturgy of the Church, and
consequently falls into many errors on the subject; but when she describes
her visit to a convent and the ceremony of the veiling of a nun, she
writes some of her most picturesque and touching pages.

Madame Calderon does not stint her admiration for the great buildings of
the country, both civil and religious, though her descriptions betray only
too often the influence of the romantic age in which she lived.

Beautiful indeed as is her description of a garden in Tulancingo, she
rises to real eloquence before some of "Nature's pageants," admiring a
sunset over the Monastery of San Fernando, walking under the shade of the
centennial trees of Chapultepec, or wandering within the gigantic Caverns
of Cacahuamilpa, the recollection of which, she says, "rests upon the
mind, like a marble dream," and where an unfortunate traveller, years
before, had lost his way and met a tragic death.

Prescott's statement that Madame Calderon's letters were not intended
originally for publication seems hardly credible; but, on the other hand,
there is no proof for the suggestion that she had the letters of Madame
D'Aulnoy in mind. Be that as it may, the fact is that just as the French
Countess has left us a living picture of Spain in the late seventeenth
century, in the same way the wife of the Spanish Minister drew a most
faithful pen-portrait of the social, political, and even economic order,
in Mexico in the early nineteenth.

As to Madame Calderon de la Barca's personal appearance, since a portrait
of her, which is said to exist in the possession of a relative, has never
been published, the reader is free to imagine that lively lady as it may
best suit his or her individual fancy. That she was clever, well-read, and
an excellent judge of character, as well as a true lover of nature and a
keen observer of manners and customs, is evident in her letters, which
constitute by common consent a most entertaining and truly delectable
narrative, which even the lapse of more than a century has not been able
to mar.

MANUEL ROMERO DE TERREROS, Marques de San Francisco.



REFERENCES

_History of the Conquest of Mexico with the Life of the Conqueror Hernando
Cortes, and a view of the Ancient Mexican Civilization_. New York, Harper
& Bros., 1843.

_Life in Mexico, During a Residence of Two Years in That Country_, by
Madame Calderon de la Barca, with a Preface by W. H. Prescott, author of
The History of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 1843.

_The Attaché in Madrid; or, Sketches of the Court of Isabella II_,
translated from the German, New York, 1856.

_Prescott Unpublished Letters to Gayangos in the Library of the Hispanic
Society of America_, edited with notes by Clara Louisa Penney, New York,
1927.




CONTENTS


GLOSSARY


LETTER THE FIRST

Departure of the "Norma"--Last look of New York Bay--Fellow passengers--
Contrary Winds--Deceitful Appearances--Sunset in Southern Latitudes--Seas
passed over by Columbus--Varied Occupations on Shipboard--Berry Islands--
Bahama Banks--Evening in a Tropical Sea--L. E. L.--Pan of Matanzas--Morro
Castle--Bay of Havana--Arrival--Handsome House in Havana--Sights and
Sounds


LETTER THE SECOND

Havana Aristocracy--Lucia di Lammermoor--La Rossi and Montresor--Brig-of-
war--Countess de V---a--Dinner at H---a's--Southerly Winds--View from the
Balcony--_Quinta_ of Count V---a--San Cristobal--Mass at San Felipe--Erard
Harp--Dinner at General M---o's--A Dessert at Havana--Queen of Spain's
Birthday--Dinner at the Yntendencia--La Pantanelli--Theatre of Tacon--
Railroad--Cure by Lightning--Shops--Ball at the Countess F---a's Last
Visit--Souvenirs


LETTER THE THIRD

Departure in the Jason--Spanish Captain and Officers--Life on board a Man-
of-War--"_Balances_"--Fishing--"_Le Petit Tambour_"--Cocoa-nuts--A
_Norte_--Spanish Proverb--Peak of Orizava--Theory and Practice--_Norte
Chocolatero_--Contrary Winds--Chain of Mountains--Goleta


LETTER THE FOURTH

Distant View of Vera Cruz--Pilots--Boat from the City--Mutual Salutes--
Approach to Vera Cruz--Crowd on the Wharf--House of Don Dionisio V---o--
Guard of Honour--German Piano--Supper--Madonna--Aspect of the City--
_Sopilotes_--Deliberations--General Guadalupe Victoria--Two-headed Eagle--
Dilapidated Saint--Harp--Theatre--Doña Innocencia Martinez--Invitation
from General Santa Anna


LETTER THE FIFTH

Departure from Vera Cruz--Sandhills--Oriental Scene--Manga de Clavo--
General Santa Anna--Breakfast--Escort and Diligence--Santa Fe--Puente
Nacional--Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward--Country in December--Don Miguel--
First Impressions--Fruit--Plan del Rio--German Musicians--Sleeping
Captain--Approach to Jalapa--Appearance of the City--Cofre de Perote--
Flowers--House and Rock--Last View of Jalapa--Change of Scenery--San
Miguel de los Soldados--Perote-Striking Scene before Day-break--Non-
arrival of Escort--Yankee Coachman Dispute--Departure--Company of Lancers
--Alcalde--Breakfast at La Ventilla--Pulque--Double Escort--Crosses--
Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper--Ojo de Agua-Arrival at Puebla-Dress of the
Peasants--Christmas-eve-Inn-"_Nacimiento_"


LETTER THE SIXTH

Departure from Puebla--Chirimoyas--Rio Frio--Indian Game--Black Forest--
Valley of Mexico--Recollections of Tenochtitlan--Mexican Officer--
Reception--Scenery--Variety of Dresses--Cheers--Storm of Rain--Entry to
Mexico--Buenavista--House by Daylight--Sights from the Windows--Visits--
Mexican Etiquette--Countess C---a--Flowers in December--Serenade--
Patriotic Hymn


LETTER THE SEVENTH

Début in Mexico--Cathedral--Temple of the Aztecs--Congregation--Stone of
Sacrifices--Palace--Importunate Léperos--Visit to the President--Countess
C---a--Street-cries--Tortilleras--_Sartor Resartus_


LETTER THE EIGHTH

Ball in Preparation--Agreeable Family--Fine Voices--Theatre--Smoking-
Castle of Chapultepec--Viceroy Galvez--Montezuma's Cypress--Vice-Queen--
Valley of Mexico--New Year's Day--Opening of Congress--Visits from the
Diplomatic Corps--Poblana Dress--"Función extraordinaria"--Theatre--Visit
to the Cathedral of Guadalupe--Divine Painting--Bishop--Beggars--
Mosquitoes Eggs


LETTER THE NINTH

Visits from Spaniards--Visit from the President--Disquisition--Poblana
Dress--Bernardo the Matador--Bull-fight extraordinary--Plaza de Toros--
Fireworks--Portrait of C---n--Fancy Ball--Dress-Costume of the
Patronesses--Beauty in Mexico--Doctor's Visit--Cards of _faire part_--
Marquesa de San Roman--Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony--Attempt at
Robbery--Murder of a Consul--La Gúera Rodriguez--Dr. Plan--M. de Humboldt
--Anecdote--Former Customs


LETTER THE TENTH

San Fernando--House of Perez de Galvez--A Removal--Size of the Houses--Old
Monastery--View by Sunset--Evening Visits--Mexican Etiquette--A Night--
view from the Azotea-Tacubaya--Magueys--Making of Pulque--Organos and
Nopal--Environs of Mexico--Miracle--Hacienda--View from the Countess C---
a's House--Arzobispado--Anecdote--Comparative View of Beauty--Indians--
Rancheritas--Mexican Cordiality--Masses for the Dead--San Agustin--Form of
Invitation--Death of a Senator--A Mistake


LETTER THE ELEVENTH

Calle de Tacuba--The Leap of Alvarado--The "Noche Triste"--Sale of a
Curate's Goods--Padre Leon--Leprosy--Pictures--The Annunciation--The
Alameda--Paseo de Bucarelli--The Viga--Indians in Canoes--A Murder--A
Country Fête--Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino--The Jota Arragonesa--Old
Soldiers


LETTER THE TWELFTH

The Viga during the Carnival--Variety of Equipages--The Millionaires--The
Monks--Masked Ball--An Alarming Sight--Medical Students--Dinner at the
Prussian Minister's--Rides on Horseback--Indian Love of Flowers--Santa
Anita--The Chinampas--Their Origin--Indians in Canoes--Song of "El
Palomo"--Fighting--The Great Lakes--The Drain of Huehuetoca--The Great
Market of Tlatelolco


LETTER THE THIRTEENTH

Convent of San Joaquin--Mexico in the Morning--Tacuba--Carmelite Prior--
Convent Garden--Hacienda of Los Morales--El Olivar--A _Huacamaya_--
Humming-birds--Correspondence--Expected Consecration--Visit to the
Mineria--Botanic Garden--Arbol de las Manitas--The Museum--Equestrian
Statue--Academy of Painting and Sculpture--Disappointment


LETTER THE FOURTEENTH

Palm Sunday--Holy Thursday--Variety of Costumes--San Francisco--Santa
Domingo--Santa Teresa--Nuns--Stone Bust--The Academy--Religious
Procession--Pilgrimage to the Churches--Santa Clara--Nun's Voice--Orange-
trees and Rose-bushes--The Cathedral Illuminated--Our Saviour in Chains--
Good Friday--The Great Square towards Evening--Dresses of Men, Women, and
Children--Approach of the Host--Judas--Great Procession--_Miserere_--The
Square by Moonlight--A Lonely Walk--_Sabado de Gloria_--Ball in
Contemplation--Weekly Soirées--Embroidered Muslins--A Tertulia at Home


LETTER THE FIFTEENTH

Letter from the Archbishop--Visit to the "_Encarnación_"--Reception--
Description--The Novices--Convent Supper--Picturesque Scene--Sonata on the
Organ--Attempt at Robbery--Alarms of the Household--Visit to San Agustin--
Anonymous Letter--The Virgin _de los Remedios_--Visit to the Chapel--The
Padre--The Image--Anecdote of the Large Pearl--A Mine


LETTER THE SIXTEENTH

Mexico in May--Leave Mexico for Santiago--Coach of Charles X.--Mexican
Travelling--General Aspect of the Country--Village of Santa Clara--
Robbers' House--Temples of the Sun and Moon--San Juan--Mexican Posada--
School-house--Skulls--Hard Fare--Travelling Dress--Sopayuca--Military
Administrador--Santiago--Matadors and Picadors--Evenings in the Country--
Dances--Mexican Songs--Cempoala--Plaza de Toros--Skill of the Horsemen--
Omatusco--Accident--Tulansingo--Beautiful Garden--Mexican Dishes--Fruits--
Horses--Games of Forfeits--Ranchera's Dress--Young Girls and their
Admirers--Verses--Knowledge of Simple Medicine--Indian Baths--Hidden
Treasures--Anecdote


LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH

Arrival at Tepenacasco--Lake with Wild-ducks--Ruined Hacienda--Sunset on
the Plains--Troop of Asses--Ride by Moonlight--Leave Tepenacasco--San
Miguel--Description--Thunderstorm--Guasco--Journey to Real del Monte--
English Road--Scenery--Village of Real--Count de Regla--Director's House--
English Breakfast--Visit to the Mines--Mining Speculations--Grand Scenery
--Visit to Regla--The Cascade--The Storm--Loneliness--A Journey in Storm
and Darkness--Return to Tepenacasco--Journey to Sopacuya--Narrow Escape--
Famous Bull--Return to Mexico


LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH

English Ball--Dresses--Diamonds--Mineria--Arrival of the Pope's Bull--
Consecration of the Archbishop--Foreign Ministers--Splendour of the
Cathedral--Description of the Ceremony


LETTER THE NINETEENTH

Mexican Servants--Anecdotes--Remedies--An unsafe Porter--Galopinas--The
Reboso--The Sarape--Women-cooks--Foreign Servants--Characteristics of
Mexican Servants--Servants' Wages--Nun of the Santa Teresa--Motives for
Taking the Veil


LETTER THE TWENTIETH

The Convent Entry--Dialogue--A Chair in Church--Arrival of the Nun--Dress
--José Maria--Crowd--Withdrawal of the Black Curtain--The Taking of the
Veil--The Sermon--A Dead Body--Another Victim--Convent of the Encarnación
--Attempt at a Hymn--Invitation--Morning Visit--The Nun and her Mother--
Banquet--Taking Leave--Ceremony of the Veil-taking--A Beautiful Victim--
The Last Look--Presentation to the Bishop--Reflections--Verses


LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST

San Agustin--The Gambling Fête--The Beauties of the Village--The Road from
Mexico--Entry to San Agustin--The Gambling Houses--San Antonio--The
Pedregal--Last Day of the Fête--The Cockpit--The Boxes--The Cock-fight--
Decorum--Comparisons--Dinner--Ball at Calvario--House of General Moran--
View of the Gambling Tables--The Advocate--Ball at the Plaza de Gallos--
Return to Mexico--Reflections--Conversation between two Ministers


LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND

Countess C---a--Gutierrez Estrada--Dinner at General Moran's--Dowager
Marquesa--Fête at San Antonio--Approach of the Rainy Season--Diamonds and
Plate--Great Ball--Night Traveling--Severe Storm--Chapter of Accidents--
Corpus Christ!--Poblana Dress--Book Club--Ball--Humming Bird--Franciscan
Friar--Missions to Old and New California--Zeal and Endurance of the
Missionaries--Present Condition--Convent Gardener


LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD

The President--Yturbide--Visit from the Archbishop--Señor Canedo--General
Almonte--Señor Cuevas--Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico--Of Señor
Posada--His Life--Mexican Charity--Wax Figures--Anecdote--Valuable
Present--Education--Comparison--Schools--Opportunities--Natural Talent--
Annual--Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the Editor--Families of the
Old School--Morals--Indulgence--Manners--Love of Country--Colleges


LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH

Revolution in Mexico--Gomez Farias and General Urrea--The Federalists--The
President Imprisoned--Firing--Cannon--First News--Escape--Proclamation of
the Government--Cannonading--Count C---a--Houses Deserted--Countess del
V---e--Proclamation of the Federalists--Circular of the Federalists--
Scarcity of Provisions--Bursting of a Shell--Refugees--Dr. Plan--Young
Lady Shot--Gomez Farias--Rumours--Address of Gomez Farias--Balls and
Bullets--Visit from the ----- Minister--Arrival of Monsieur de -------
Expected Attack--Skirmish--Appearance of the Street--San Cosme--General--
The Count de B------ More Rumours--Suspense--Cannonading--Government
Bulletin--Plan of the Rebels Defeated--Proclamation of the President--Of
General Valencia--Maternal Affection--Fresh Reports--Families leaving the
City--Letter from Santa Anna--Bustamante's Letter when imprisoned--
Propositions--Refusal--Taoubaya--Archbishop--Fresh Proposals--Refusal--
Second Letter from Santa Anna--Government Bulletin--Proclamations--An
awkward Mistake--The Archbishop visits the President--Conclusion of the
Revolution--Government Newspapers--Circulars


LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH

Plan of the Federalists--Letter from Farias--Signing of Articles--
Dispersion of the "Pronunciados"--Conditions--Orders of General Valencia--
Of the Governor--Address of General Valencia--Departure of our Guests--The
_Cosmopolita_--State of the Palace and Streets--Bulletin of the Firing--
Interior of Houses--Escape of Families--Conduct of the Troops--Countess
del V---e-- Santa Anna--Congress--Anecdote--Discussion in Congress--Leprosy


LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH

Visitors--Virgin de los Remedies--_Encarnación_--Fears of the Nuns--Santa
Teresa--Rainy Season--Amusing Scene--"_Está a la disposición de V._"--
Mexican Sincerity--Texian Vessels--Fine Hair--Schoolmistress--Climate--Its
Effects--Nerves--_Tours de Force_--Anniversary--Speech--Paseo--San Angel--
Tacubaya--Army of "The Three Guarantees"--Plan of Yguala--A Murder--Indian
Politeness--Drunkenness--Señor Canedo--Revolutions in Mexico--The Penon--
The Baths--General ------- --Situation and View--Indian Family--Of the
Boiling Springs--Capabilities--Solitude--Chapultepec--The _Desagravios_--
Penitence at San Francisco--Discipline of the Men--Discourse of the Monk--
Darkness and Horrors--Salmagundi


LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH

Fête-day--Friendly Hint--Precautions--General Tranquillity--President in
San Agustin--Revisit Museum--Ancient Manuscripts--Sculpture--Bronze Bust,
etc.--Freshness after Rain--Ball at the French Minister's--Pamphlet--
Gutierrez Estrada--His Character--Concealment--_Mexicalsingo_--Minister of
the Treasury--Archbishop's Permission--Paintings--Mexican Painters--Santa
Teresa--Description of the Interior--The Penitences--Tortures--
Disciplines, etc.--Supper--Profane Ballads--Monasteries--San Francisco--
Padre Prior--Soldiers and Friars


LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH

_día de Muertos_--Leave Mexico--_Herraderos_--San Cristobal--Tunas--Plaza
de Toros--Throwing the _Laso_--Accidents--Rustic Breakfast--Country Fare--
Baked Meat--Indian Market--Buried Bull--Mountain--Solitary _Hacienda_--
_Reyes_--Mules marked--Return--Queen of Spain's Birthday--Diplomatic
Dinner


LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH

Virgin of _Cavadonga_--Santo Domingo--Decorations and Music--
Daguerreotype--Weekly Soirées--An Arrival--An Earthquake--Honourable Mr.
----- --Broken Furniture--_Dios_--Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe--Party to
the _Desierto_--_Itzcuintepotzotli_--Inn of _Guajimalco_--Ruined Convent--
Its Origin--_Dejeune a la Fourchette_--Splendid Scenery--Vow to the
Virgin--Musical Mass--Tacuba--Ride with the Prior


LETTER THE THIRTIETH

Christmas-day--Kalends and Mass--Amateur Performances--Solo--_Posadas_--
Wandering of the Holy Family--_Nacimiento_--Crowded Party--French Cooks--
Mexican Cook--State of Household--New Year's Day--Mass--Dirtiness of the
Churches, etc.--Comparisons--Private Chapels--English Club--Preparations
for Journey


LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST

Leave Mexico--Cuernavaca--_Tierra Caliente_--_Atlacamulco_--Orange Groves
--Sugar-cane--Annual Produce--Will of Cortes--Description--Coffee
Plantation--Scorpions--List of Venomous Reptiles--_Aspansingo_--Doubts and
Difficulties--A Decision


LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND

Leave _Atlacamulco_--Assemble by Starlight--Balmy Atmosphere--Flowers and
Trees of the Tropics--The Formidable _Barrancas_--Breakfast under the
Trees--Force of the Sun--_Meacatlan_--Hospitality--Profitable Estate--
Leave Meacatlan--Beautiful Village--Musical Bells--Ride by Moonlight--
Sugar Fires--Cocoyotla--Old Gentleman--Supper--Orange-trees and Cocoas--
Delicious Water--Sugar Estates--_A Scorpion_--Set off for the Cave--
Morning Ride--Dangerous Path


LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD

Cave of _Cacahuamilpa_--Superstition--Long-bearded Goat--Portal--
Vestibule--Fantastic Forms--Breakfast--Pine Torches--Noble Hall--
Stalactites and Stalagmites--Egyptian Pyramids--Double Gallery--Wonderful
Formations--Corridor--Frozen Landscape--Amphitheatre--World in Chaos--
Skeleton--Wax Lights--Hall of Angels--Return--Distant Light--Indian
Alcalde--_Cautlamilpas_--Rancho--Return to Cocoyotla--Chapel--Meacatlan--
Eclipse of the Moon--Benighted Travellers--Indian Village--_El Puente_--
Return to _Atlacamulco_


LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH

Ride by Starlight--Fear of Robbers--Tropical Wild Flowers--Stout Escort--
_Hautepec_--Hacienda of _Cocoyoc_--A Fire--Three Thousand Orange-trees--
Coffee Mills, etc.--Variety of Tropical Fruits--Prodigality of Nature--
_Casasano_--Celebrated Reservoir--Ride to Santa Clara--A Philosopher--A
Scorpion--Leave Santa Clara--Dangerous _Barranca_--_Colon_--Agreeable
House--Civil _Administrador_--San Nicolas--Solitude--Franciscan Friar--
Rainy Morning--Pink Turban--Arrival at _Atlisco_--Cypress--Department of
Puebla--Volcanoes--Doña Marina--Verses--_Popocatepetl_--Cholula--Great
Pyramid--Arrival at Puebla


LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH

Theatre--Portmanteaus--Visitors--Houses of Puebla--Fine Arts--Paseo--Don
N. Ramos Arispe--Bishop--Cotton Factories--Don Esteban Antunano--Bank of
_Avio_--United States Machinery--Accidents--Difficulties--Shipwrecks--
Detentions--Wonderful Perseverance--"_La Constancia Mejicana_" Hospital--
Prison--El Carmen--Paintings--Painted Floors--Angels--Cathedral--Gold and
Jewels--A Comedy--Bishop's Palace--Want of Masters


LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH

Concert--Diligence--Leave Puebla--Escort--View from the Cathedral Towers--
Black Forest-History of the Crosses-Tales of Murder--An Alarm--Report of a
Skirmish--Rio Frio--Law Concerning Robbers--Their _Moderation_-Return to
Mexico--Carnival Ball--Improvement in Dress


LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH

Distinguished Men--Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria--
Anecdote--Señor Pedraza--Señor Gutierrez Estrada--Count Cortina--Señor
Gorostiza--Don Carlos Bustamante--"Mornings in the Alameda"--Don Andrés
Quintana Roo--Don Lucas Alaman--General Moran--General Almonte--Señor
Canedo--Señors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores--Doctor Valentin--Don
Francisco Tagle--Eight Revolutions


LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH

New Minister--San Angel--Profitable Pulque Estate--The Village--
Surrounding Scenery--The Indians--The Padre--The Climate--Holy Week in the
Country--Dramatic Representations--Coyohuacan--The Pharisees--Image of the
Saviour--Music and Dresses--Procession-Catholicism amongst the Indians--
Strange Tradition--Paul the Fifth--Contrast between a Mexican and a New
England Village--Love of Fireworks--Ferdinand the Seventh--Military Ball--
_Drapeaux_


LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan--Hernan Cortes--His Last Wishes--_Padres
Camilas_-Old Church--Procession--Representation of the Taking of Christ--
Curate's Sermon under the Trees--A Religious Drama--Good Friday--Portable
Pulpit--Heat--Booths--Religious Procession--Simon the Cyrenian--Costumes--
Curate's Sermon--Second Discourse--Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate--
Descent from the Cross--Procession of the Angels--Funeral Hymn--The
_Pesame_ to the Virgin--Sermon--"Sweet Kitty Clover"--Music in Mexico--
Anecdote


LETTER THE FORTIETH

Balloon--San Bartolo--Indian Women--A Beauty--Different Castes--Indians--
Their Character, etc.--Those of Noble Race--Ball at the French Minister's
--_Abecilla_--Danger of Walking Unattended--Shooting Party--A Murder--
Robbery of a Farmhouse--Discomfited Robber Captain--The "_Zambos_"--
Letters and Visitors--Country Life in Mexico


LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST

Gambling--Fête at San Agustin--Breakfast at San Antonio--Report--Cock-
fight--Ladies--Private Gambling--A _Vaca_--The _Calvario_--Bonnets--
Dinner--Evening Ball--Mingling of Classes--Copper Tables--Dresses and
Decorations--Indian Bankers, Male and Female--Decorum--Habit--Holders of
Banks--Female Gambler--Robbery--Anecdote--Bet--_Casa de Moneda_--Leave San
Angel--Celebration--Address--Cross and Diploma--Reply--Presentation of a
Sword--Discourses and Addresses--Reflections


LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND

Italian Opera--Artists, Male and Female--Prima Donna--Lucia di Lammermoor
--Some Disappointment--Second Representation--Improvement--Romeo and
Giulietta--La Ricci--La Señora Cesari--The Mint--False Coining--Repetition
of Lucia--Procession by Night--A Spanish Beauty--Discriminating Audience--
A little _too simple_--Gold Embroidery--Santiago--Pilgrims--Old Indian
Custom--Soiree--Mexico by Moonlight--Mysterious Figure--Archbishop--
Viceroy


LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD

Revillagigedo--The False Merchant and the Lady--The Viceroy, the Unjust
Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces--Horrible Murder--Details--
Oath--Country Family--The Spot of Blood--The Mother Unknowingly Denounces
her Son--Arrest of the _Three_--Confession--Execution--The Viceroy
fulfils his Pledge--Paving of the Streets--Severity to the Monks--Solitary
Damsel--Box on the Ear--Pension--Morning Concert--New Minister-"Street of
the Sad Indian"--Traditions--A Farewell Audience--Inscription on a Tomb


LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH

Agitation--Storm--Revolution--Manifesto--Resembling a Game of Chess--
Position of the Pieces--Appearance of the City--Firing--State of Parties--
Comparisons--"_Comicios_"--The People--Congress--Santa Anna--Amnesty
Offered--Roaring of Cannon--Proclamation--Time to _Look at Home_--The Will
of the Nation--Different Feelings--Judge's House Destroyed--The Mint in
Requisition--Preparations--Cannonading--"_Los Enanos_"


LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH

Leave Mexico--Travelling Equipage--San Xavier--Fine Hacienda--
Millionaires--Well-educated Ladies--Garden, etc.--Tlanapantla--Indian Hut
--Mrs. Ward--Doña Margarita--The _Pronunciamiento_--False Step--Santa Anna
in Puebla--Neutrality--General Paredes--President in Tlanapantla--Tired
Troops--Their March--Their Return--Curate's House--Murder--General Paredes
in the Lecheria--President in Tlanapantla--A Meeting--Return of the
President and his Troops--General Paredes and his Men--Santa Anna in
Tacubaya--A Junction--President in Mexico--_Allied Sovereigns_--Plan--
Articles--President declares for Federalism--Resigns--Results--
Hostilities--Capitulation--Triumphal Entry--_Te Deum_--New Ministry


LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH

Santa Monica--Solidity--Old Paintings--Anachronism--Babies and Nurses from
the Cuna--Society--Funds-Plan--Indian Nurses--Carmelite Convent--Midnight
Warning--Old Villages and Churches--Indian Bath--San Mateo--The Lecheria--
Fertility--_Molino Viego_--Dulness--Religious Exercises--Return to Mexico
--Mexican Hotel--New Generals--Disturbances--General Bustamante--
Inconvenience--Abuses in the Name of Liberty--Verses--Independence
celebrated


LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH

Opera--Santa Anna and his Suite--His Appearance--_Belisario_--Solitary
"_Viva_!"--Brilliant House--Military Dictatorship--_San_ _Juan de Dios_--
Hospital _de Jesús_--_Cuna_--Old Woman and Baby--Different Apartments--
Acordada--Junta--Female Prisoners--Chief Crime--_Travaux Forces_--
Children--Male Prisoners--_Forçats_--Soldiers Gambling--Chapel--
Confessional--Insane Hospital--Frenchmen--Different Kinds of Insanity--
Kitchen--Dinner--Insane Monk--"Black Chamber"--Soldiers--College--Santa
Anna's Leg--Projects--All Saints--Señora P---a--Leave-takings


LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH

Leave Mexico--Diligence--Indian Padre--Brandy-drinking Female--Bad Roads--
Beautiful View--Escort--Good Breakfast--Crosses--Robber's Head--Select
Party--Lerma--Valley of Toluca--Hacienda--Toluca--Count de B---- and Mr.
W------The Commandant--Gay Supper--Colonel Y------Day at Toluca--Journey
to _La Gabia_--Heat and Hunger--Pleasant Quarters--Princely Estate--El
Pilar--A Zorillo--A Wolf--Long Journey--Tortillas--Count de B------State
of Michoacán--Forest Scenery--_Trojes of Angangueo_--Comfort


LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH

Leave _Trojes_--Beautiful Territory--Tarrascan Indians--Taximaroa--
Distressed Condition--An Improvement--Cold Morning--Querendaro--Fine Breed
of Horses--San Bartolo--Produce--Country Proprietors--_Colear_--Ride to
Morelia--Wild Ducks--Sunset--Cathedral Bell--Cuincho--Curates Morelos,
Matamoros, and Hidalgo--Warm Baths--Handsome Girls--Starving Travellers--
Lost Mules--Lancers--Night on a Heap of Straw--Mules Found--Tzintzontzan--
King Calsonsi--Pascuaro--Kind Reception--Bishop--Robbers--Curu--Night in a
Barn--Mountain--Uruapa--Enchanting Scenery--Pleasant Family--Jorulla


LETTER THE FIFTIETH

Indian Dresses--Saints--Music--Union of Tropical and European Vegetation--
Old Customs--Falls of the Sararaqui--Silkworms--Indian Painting--Beautiful
Heroine--Leave Uruapa--Tziracuaratiro--Talkative Indian--Alcalde's House--
Pascuaro--Old Church--Mosaic Work--The Lake--The Cave--Fried Fish--Rich
Indians--Convent--Cuincho--Darkness--Morelia--Alameda--Cathedral--Silver
--Waxworks--College--Wonderful Fleas


LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST

San Bartolo--Mass--Markets--Rancheros--San Andrés--Insanity--Rancho--House
of Don Carlos Heimburger--Wild Scenery--German Songs--Las Millas--Leave
taking--Storm--Rainbow--El Pilar--La Gabia--Toluca--News--Copper
_Pronunciamiento_--Return to Mexico--General Moran--Funeral Obsequies--New
Theatre--_Cock's Mass_--Santa Clara--Santa Fe Prisoners--New Year


LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND

Last Day in Mexico--Theatre--Santa Anna--French Minister's--Parting--
Diligence--Last Look of Mexico--Fatigue--Robbers--Escort--Second
Impressions--Baths at Jalapa--Vera Cruz--Some Account of San Juan de Ulua
--Siege of 1825--Siege of 1838--General Bustamante--Theatre--Of the North
Winds


LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD

Sail in the Tyrian--Norther off Tampico--The Bar--The River Panuco--The
Pilot--The Shore--Alligator--"_Paso de Doña Cecilia_"--Tampico--Spanish
Consul's House--Society--Navigation--Banks of the Panuco--Extraordinary
Inoculation--The "_Glorieta_"--Leave Tampico--Furious Norther--Voyage--
Arrival at Havana


LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH

Havana--The Carnival--The Elssler--La Angosta--_Ingenio_ of Count V---a--
General Bustamante--Lord Morpeth--Leave Havana--Voyage in the Medway--Old
Friends--Return to the United States



PREFACE


The present work is the result of observations made during a two years'
residence in Mexico, by a lady, whose position there made her intimately
acquainted with its society, and opened to her the best sources of
information in regard to whatever could interest an enlightened foreigner.
It consists of letters written to the members of her own family, and,
_really_, not intended originally--however incredible the assertion--for
publication. Feeling a regret that such rich stores of instruction and
amusement, from which I have so much profited, myself, should be reserved
for the eyes of a few friends only, I strongly recommended that they should
be given to the world. This is now done, with a few such alterations and
omissions as were necessary in a private correspondence; and although the
work would derive more credit from the author's own name, than from
anything which I can say, yet as she declines prefixing it, I feel much
pleasure in making this statement by way of introduction to the public.

WILLIAM H. PRESCOTT.

Boston, December 20, 1842.



GLOSSARY

OF

SPANISH OR MEXICAN WORDS WHICH OCCUR IN THE COURSE OF THE WORK, WHICH ARE
GENERALLY EXPLAINED WHEN FIRST USED, BUT WHICH BEING REPEATED, THE READER
MIGHT FORGET AND WISH TO REFER TO.


_Administrador_-Agent.
_Alameda_-Public walk with trees.
_Aquador_-Water-carrier.
_Alacran_-Scorpion.
_Anquera_-Coating of stamped gilt leather, edged with little bells, which
covers the back of the horses.
_Arriero_-Muleteer.
_Arroba_-Spanish weight of twenty-five pounds.
_Azotea_-The flat roof of a house.
_Barranca_-Ravine.
_Botica_-Apothecary's shop.
_Calle_-Street.
_Cargadores_-Men who carry loads.
_Chinguirito_-Spirit made from sugar-cane.
_Chile_-Hot peppers.
_Compadre and Comadre_-Godfather and Godmother; names by which two persons
address each other, who have held the same child at the baptismal font, or
have been sponsors together at a marriage, etc.
_Canonigo_-Canon or prebendary.
_Comicos_-Actors.
_Camarista_-Lady of honour.
_día de Anos_-Birthday.
_Dulces_-Sweetmeats.
_Díario_-Daily newspapers.
_Frisones_-Large horses from the north.
_Función_-Solemnity-festival.
_Frijoles_-Brown beans.
_Galopina_-Kitchen-girl.
_Garbanzos_-Chick-peas _Cicer Arietinum_.
_Gachupin_-Name given to the Spaniards in Mejico.
_Garita_-City-gate.
_Goleta_-Schooner.
_Gentuza_-Rabble.
_Honras_-Funeral honours.
_Hacienda_-Country-place.
_Ingenio de Azucar_-Sugar plantation.
_Invalidos--Disabled soldiers.
_Jarro_--Earthen jar.
_Ladrones_--Robbers.
_Léperos_--Beggars, low persons.
_Litera_--Litter.
_Monte Pio_--Office where money is lent on security.
_Mezcal_--Brandy distilled from pulque.
_Manga_--Cloak made of cloth, with a hole in the middle for putting the
head through.
_Novios_--Betrothed persons.
_Nuestro Amo_--Our Master, used in speaking of the Host.
_Ojo de Agua_--Spring of water.
_Portales_--Covered portico supported by columns.
_Pulqueria_--Shop where pulque is sold.
_Paseo_--Public walk.
_Paso_--Pace, pacing.
_Padrino_--Godfather.
_Plaza_--Square.
_Patio_--Courtyard.
_Petate_--Matting.
_Poblana_--Woman of Puebla.
_Pronunciamiento_--A revolution in Mexico.
_Pronunciados_--Those who revolt.
_Rancho_--A farm.
_Ranchero_--Farmer.
_Rebozo_--A scarf that goes over the head.
_Reja_--Iron grate.
_Sopilote_--Species of carrion vulture.
_Sarape_--A woollen blanket more or less fine, with a hole for the head to
go through.
_Traspaso_--Conveyance, transfer.
_Tilma_--Indian cloak.
_Tierra caliente_--The hot land.
_Tertulia_--An evening party.
_Toreador_--Bull-fighter.
_Tortilla_--Species of thin cake.
_Tortillera_--Woman who bakes tortillas.
_Vaca_--Joint stock in gambling.
_Vomito_--Name given to the yellow fever.
_Venta_--Inn.




LIFE IN MEXICO




LETTER THE FIRST


Departure of the Norma--Last look of New York Bay--Fellow-passengers
--Contrary Winds--Deceitful Appearances--Sunset in Southern Latitudes
--Seas passed over by Columbus--Varied Occupations on Shipboard--Berry
Islands--Bahama Banks--Evening in a Tropical Sea--L. E. L.--Pan of
Matanzas--Morro Castle--Bay of Havana--Arrival--Handsome House in
Havana--Sights and Sounds.



PACKET SHIP "NORMA,"

Oct. 27th, 1839.


This morning, at ten o'clock, we stepped on board the steamboat Hercules,
destined to convey us to our packet with its musical name. The day was
foggy and gloomy, as if refusing to be comforted, even by an occasional
smile from the sun. All prognosticated that the Norma would not sail
to-day, but "where there's a will," etc. Several of our friends accompanied
us to the wharf; the Russian Minister, the Minister of Buenos Ayres,
Mr. -----, who tried hard to look sentimental, and even brought tears into
his eyes by some curious process; Judge -----, Mr. -----, and others, from
whom we were truly sorry to part.

The Norma was anchored in one of the most beautiful points of the bay, and
the steamboat towed us five miles, until we had passed the Narrows. The
wind was contrary, but the day began to clear up, and the sun to scatter
the watery clouds.

Still there is nothing so sad as a retreating view. It is as if time were
visibly in motion; and as here we had to part from -----, we could only
distinguish, as through a misty veil, the beauties of the bay; the shores
covered to the water's edge with trees rich in their autumnal colouring;
the white houses on Staten Island--the whole gradually growing fainter,
till, like a dream, they faded away.

The pilot has left us, breaking our last link with the land. We still see
the mountains of Neversink, and the lighthouse of Sandy Hook. The sun is
setting, and in a few minutes we must take our leave, probably for years,
of places long familiar to us.

Our fellow-passengers do not appear very remarkable. There is Madame
A----, returning from being prima donna in Mexico, in a packet called after
the opera in which she was there a favourite, with her husband Señor
V---- and her child. There is M. B---- with moustaches like a bird's nest;
a pretty widow in deep affliction, at least in deep mourning; a maiden lady
going out as a governess, and every variety of Spaniard and Havanero. So
now we are alone, C---n and I, and my French femme-de-chambre, with her air
of Dowager Duchess, and moreover sea-sick.

28th.--When I said I liked a sea life, I did not mean to be understood as
liking a merchant ship, with an airless cabin, and with every variety of
disagreeable odour. As a French woman on board, with the air of an
afflicted porpoise, and with more truth than elegance, expresses it: "Tout
devient puant, même l'eau-de-cologne."

The wind is still contrary, and the Norma, beating up and down, makes but
little way. We have gone seventy-four miles, and of these advanced but
forty. Every one being sick to-day, the deck is nearly deserted. The most
interesting object I have discovered on board is a pretty little deaf and
dumb girl, very lively and with an intelligent face, who has been teaching
me to speak on my fingers. The infant heir of the house of ----- has shown
his good taste by passing the day in squalling. M. B----, pale, dirty, and
much resembling a brigand out of employ, has traversed the deck with uneasy
footsteps and a cigar appearing from out his moustaches, like a light in a
tangled forest, or a jack-o'-lantern in a marshy thicket. A fat Spaniard
has been discoursing upon the glories of olla podrida. _Au reste_, we are
slowly pursuing our way, and at this rate might reach Cuba in three months.

And the stars are shining, quiet and silvery. All without is soft and
beautiful, and no doubt the Norma herself looks all in unison with the
scene, balancing herself like a lazy swan, white and graciously. So it is
without, and within, there is miserable sea-sickness, bilge-water, and all
the unavoidable disagreeables of a small packet.

31st.--Three days have passed without anything worthy of notice having
occurred, except that we already feel the difference of temperature. The
passengers are still enduring sea-sickness in all its phases.

This morning opened with an angry dispute between two of the gentlemen, on
the subject of Cuban lotteries, and they ended by applying to each other
epithets which, however much they might be deserved, were certainly rather
strong; but by dinner time, they were amicably engaged in concocting
together an enormous tureen of _gaspachos_, a sort of salad, composed of
bread, oil, vinegar, sliced onion and garlic--and the fattest one declares
that in warm weather, a dish of _gaspachos_, with plenty of garlic in it,
makes him feel as fresh as a rose. He must indeed be a perfect bouquet.

The opening of morning is dramatic in our narrow cabin. About twenty voices
in Spanish, German, Italian, and broken English, strike up by degrees. From
a neighbouring state room, _Nid d'oiseau_ puts forth his head. "Stooar! a
toomlar! here is no vater!" "Comin, sir, comin." "_Caramba!_ Stooard!"
"Comin, sir, comin!" "Stuart? vasser und toel!" "Here, sir." "Amigo! how is
the wind?" (This is the waking up of el Señor Ministro, putting his head
half suffocated out of his berth.) "Oh steward! steward!" "Yes, miss,"
"Come here, and look at _this_!" "I'll fix it, miss,"--etc.

1st November.--A fair wind after a stifling night, and strong hopes of
seeing the Bahama Banks on Sunday. Most people are now gradually ascending
from the lower regions, and dragging themselves on deck with pale and
dejected countenances. Madame A---- has such a sweet-toned voice in
speaking, especially in her accents of her _bella Italia_, that it is
refreshing to listen to her. I have passed all day in reading, after a
desultory fashion, "Les Enfants d'Edouard," by Casimir Delavigne,
Washington Irving, D'Israeli's "Curiosities of Literature," etc.; and it is
rather singular that while there is a very tolerable supply of English and
French books here, I see but one or two odd volumes in Spanish, although
these packets are constantly filled with people of that nation, going and
coming. Is it that they do not care for reading, or that less attention is
paid to them than to the French or American passengers? One would think
Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Calderon, or Moratin, better worth buying than
many commonplace novels which I find here.

3rd.--Yesterday the wind blew soft as on a summer morning. A land-bird flew
into the ship. To-day the wind has veered round, but the weather continues
charming. The sea is covered with multitudes of small flying-fish. An
infantile water-spout appeared, and died in its birth. Mr. -----, the
consul, has been giving me an account of the agreeable society in the
Sandwich Islands! A magnificent sunset, the sight of which compensates for
all the inconveniences of the voyage. The sky was covered with black clouds
lined with silver, and surrounded by every variety of colour; deep blue,
fleecy, rose, violet, and orange. The heavens are now thickly studded with
stars, numbers shooting across the blue expanse like messengers of light,
glancing and disappearing as if extinguished.

It is well to read the History of Columbus at sea, but especially in these
waters, where he wandered in suspense, high-wrought expectation, and firm
faith; and to watch the signs which the noble mariner observed in these
latitudes; the soft serenity of the breezes, the clear blue of the heavens,
the brilliancy and number of the stars, the sea-weeds of the gulf, which
always drift in the direction of the wind, the little land-birds that come
like harbingers of good tidings, the frequency of the shooting stars, and
the multitude of flying-fish.

As the shades of evening close around, and the tropical sky glitters with
the light of innumerable stars, imagination transports us back to that
century which stands out in bold relief amidst other ages rolling by
comparatively undistinguished, and we see as in a vision the Discoverer of
a World, standing on the deck of his caravel, as it bounded over the
unknown and mysterious waste of waters, his vigilant eyes fixed on the
west, like a Persian intently watching the rising of his god; though his
star was to arise from whence the day-god sets. We see him bending his gaze
on the first dark line that separated the watery sea from the blue of the
heavens, striving to penetrate the gloom of night, yet waiting with patient
faith until the dawn of day should bring the long-wished for shores in
sight.

6th.--For three days, three very long and uncomfortable days, the wind,
with surprising constancy, has continued to blow dead ahead. In ancient
days, what altars might have smoked to Aeolus! Now, except in the increased
puffing of consolatory cigar-smoke, no propitiatory offerings are made to
unseen powers. There are indeed many mourning signs amongst the passengers.
Every one has tied up his head in an angry-looking silken bandana, drawn
over his nose with a dogged air. Beards are unshaven, a black stubble
covering the lemon-coloured countenance, which occasionally bears a look of
sulky defiance, as if its owner were, like Juliet, "past hope, past cure,
past help."

7th.--This morning the monotony of fine weather was relieved by a hearty
squall, accompanied by torrents of rain, much thunder, and forked
lightning. The ship reeled to and fro like a drunken man, and the
passengers, as usual in such cases, performed various involuntary
evolutions, cutting right angles, sliding, spinning round, and rolling
over, as if Oberon's magic horn were playing an occasional blast amidst the
roaring winds; whilst the stewards alone, like Horace's good man, walked
serene amidst the wreck of crockery and the fall of plates. Driven from our
stronghold on deck, indiscriminately crammed in below like figs in a drum;
"weltering," as Carlyle has it, "like an Egyptian pitcher of tamed vipers,"
the cabin windows all shut in, we tried to take it coolly, in spite of the
suffocating heat.

There is a child on board who is certainly possessed, not by a witty
malicious demon, a diable boiteux, but by a teasing, stupid, wicked imp,
which inspires him with the desire of tormenting everything human that
comes within his reach. Should he escape being thrown overboard, it will
show a wonderful degree of forbearance on the part of the passengers.

8th.--The weather is perfect, but the wind inexorable; and the passengers,
with their heads tied up, look more gloomy than ever. Some sit dejected in
corners, and some quarrel with their neighbours, thus finding a
safety-valve by which their wrath may escape.

9th.--There is no change in the wind, yet the gentlemen have all brightened
up, taken off their handkerchiefs and shaved, as if ashamed of their six
days' impatience, and making up their minds to a sea-life. This morning we
saw land; a long, low ridge of hills on the island of Eleuthera, where they
make salt, and where there are many negroes. Neither salt nor negroes
visible to the naked eye; nothing but the gray outline of the hills,
melting into the sea and sky; and having tacked about all day, we found
ourselves in the evening precisely opposite to this same island. There are
Job's comforters on board, who assure us that they have been thirty-six
days between New York and la "joya mas preciosa de la corona de Espana."[1]

[Footnote 1: The most precious jewel in the Spanish crown, the name given
to Cuba.]

For my part, I feel no impatience, having rather a dislike to changing my
position when tolerable, and the air is so fresh and laden with balm, that
it seems to blow over some paradise of sweets, some land of fragrant
spices. The sea also is a mirror, and I have read Marryat's "Pirate" for
the first time.

Thus then we stand at eight o'clock, P.M.; wind ahead, and little of it,
performing a zigzag march between Eleuthera and Abaco. On deck, the pretty
widow lies in an easy chair, surrounded by her countrymen, who discourse
about sugar, molasses, chocolate, and other local topics, together with the
relative merits of Cuba as compared with the rest of the known world.
Madame A---- is studying her part of Elizabetta in the opera of Roberto
Devereux, which she is to bring out in Havana, but the creaking of the
Norma is sadly at variance with harmony. A pale German youth, in
dressing-gown and slippers, is studying Schiller. An ingenious youngster is
carefully conning a well-thumbed note, which looks like a milliner's girl's
last billet-doux. The little _possédé_ is burning brown paper within an
inch of the curtains of a state-room, while the steward is dragging it from
him. Others are gradually dropping into their berths, like ripe nuts from a
tree. Thus are we all pursuing our vocations.

9th.--Wind dead ahead! I console myself with Cinq-Mars and Jacob Faithful.
But the weather is lovely. A young moon in her first quarter, like a queen
in her minority, glitters like a crescent on the brow of night.

Towards evening the long wished for lighthouse of Abaco (built by the
English) showed her charitable and revolving radiance. But our ship,
Penelope-like, undoes by night what she has performed by day, and her
course is backward and crabbish. A delicious smell of violets is blowing
from the land.

10th.--A fair wind. The good tidings communicated by the A----, _toute
rayonnante de joie_. A fair wind and a bright blue sea, cool and refreshing
breezes, the waves sparkling, and the ship going gallantly over the waters.
So far, our voyage may have been tedious, but the most determined landsman
must allow that the weather has been charming.

Sunday at sea; and though no bells are tolling, and no hymns are chanted,
the blue sky above and the blue ocean beneath us, form one vast temple,
where, since the foundations of the earth and sea were laid, _Day unto day
uttereth speech, and night unto night showeth knowledge_.

This morning we neared the Berry Islands, unproductive and rocky, as the
geography books would say. One of these islands belongs to a coloured man,
who bought it for fifty dollars--a cheaply-purchased sovereignty. He, his
wife and children, with their _negro slaves_! live there, and cultivate
vegetables to sell at New York, or to the different ships that pass that
way. Had the wind been favourable, they would probably have sent us out a
boat with fresh vegetables, fish, and fruit, which would have been very
acceptable. We saw, not far from the shore, the wreck of a two-masted
vessel; sad sight to those who pass over the same waters to see

  "A brave vessel,
  Who had, no doubt,
  some noble creatures in her,
  Dashed all to pieces!"

Who had, at least, some of God's creatures in her. Anything but that! I am
like Gonzalo, and "would fain die a dry death."

We are now on the Bahama Banks, the water very clear and blue, with a
creamy froth, looking as if it flowed over pearls and turquoises. An
English schooner man-of-war (a _boy_-of-war in size) made all sail towards
us, doubtless hoping we were a slaver; but, on putting us to the test of
his spy-glass, the captain, we presume, perceived that the general tinge of
countenance was lemon rather than negro, and so abandoned his pursuit.

This evening on the Banks. It would be difficult to imagine a more placid
and lovely scene. Everything perfectly calm, all sail set, and the heavens
becoming gradually sprinkled with silver stars. The sky blue, and without a
cloud, except where the sun has just set, the last crimson point sinking in
the calm sea and leaving a long retinue of rainbow-coloured clouds, deep
crimson tinged with bright silver, and melting away into gray, pale vapour.

On goes the vessel, stately and swanlike; the water of the same turquoise
blue, covered with a light pearly froth, and so clear that we see the large
sponges at the bottom. Every minute they heave the lead. "By the mark
three." "By the mark three, less a quarter." "By the mark twain and a
half," (fifteen feet, the vessel drawing thirteen,) two feet between us and
the bottom. The sailor sings it out like the first line of a hymn in short
metre, doled out by the parish clerk. I wish Madame A---- were singing it
instead of he. "By the mark three, less a quarter." To this tune, the only
sound breaking the stillness of the night, I dropped to sleep. The captain
passed the night anxiously, now looking out for lights on the Banks, now at
the helm, or himself sounding the lead:

  "For some must watch whilst others sleep;
  Thus wags the world away."

11th.--Beautiful morning, and fair wind. About eight we left the Banks.
Just then we observed, that the sailor who sounded, having sung out five,
then six, then in a few minutes seven, suddenly found no bottom, as if we
had fallen off all at once from the brink of the Bank into an abyss.

A fellow-captain, and passenger of our captain's, told me this morning,
that he spoke the ship which carried out Governor and Mrs. McLean to
Cape-Coast Castle--the unfortunate L.E.L. It does not seem to me at all
astonishing that the remedies which she took in England without injury,
should have proved fatal to her in that wretched climate.

We have been accompanied all the morning by a fine large ship, going full
sail, the Orleans, Captain Sears, bound for New Orleans.... A long
semicircular line of black rocks in sight; some of a round form, one of
which is called the Death's Head; another of the shape of a turtle, and
some two or three miles long. At the extremity of one of these the English
are building a lighthouse.

12th.--We are opposite the Pan of Matanzas, about sixty miles from Havana.
Impatience becomes general, but the breeze rocks up and down, and we gain
little. This day, like all last days on board, has been remarkably tedious,
though the country gradually becomes more interesting. There is a universal
brushing-up amongst the passengers; some shaving, some with their heads
plunged into tubs of cold water. So may have appeared Noah's ark, when the
dove did not return, and the passengers prepared for _terra firma_, after a
forty days' voyage. Our Mount Ararat was the Morro Castle, which, dark and
frowning, presented itself to our eyes, at six o'clock, P.M.

Nothing can be more striking than the first appearance of this fortress,
starting up from the solid rock, with its towers and battlements, while
here, to remind us of our latitude, we see a few feathery cocoas growing
amidst the herbage that covers the banks near the castle. By its side,
covering a considerable extent of ground, is the fortress called the
_Cabana_, painted rose-colour, with the angles of its bastions white.

But there is too much to look at now. I must finish my letter in Havana.


HAVANA, 13th November.


Last evening, as we entered the beautiful bay, everything struck us as
strange and picturesque. The soldiers of the garrison, the prison built by
General Tacon, the irregular houses with their fronts painted red or pale
blue, and with the cool but uninhabited look produced by the absence of
glass windows; the merchant ships and large men-of-war; vessels from every
port in the commercial world, the little boats gliding amongst them with
their snow-white sails, the negroes on the wharf--nothing European. The
heat was great, that of a July day, without any freshness in the air.

As we approached the wharf the noise and bustle increased. The passengers
all crowded upon deck, and we had scarcely anchored, when various little
boats were seen making for the Norma. First boat brought an officer with
the salutations of the Captain-General to his Excellency, with every polite
offer of service; second boat brought the Administrator of the Yntendente
(the Count de Villa Nueva), with the same civilities; the third, the master
of the house where we now are, and whence I indite these facts; the fourth,
the Italian Opera, which rushed simultaneously into the arms of the A---i;
the fifth, prosaic custom-house officers; the sixth, a Havana count and
marquis; the seventh, the family of General M---o. Finally, we were hoisted
over the ship's side in a chair, into the government boat, and rowed to the
shore. As it was rather dark when we arrived, and we were driven to our
destination in a volante, we did not see much of the city. We could but
observe that the streets were narrow, the houses irregular, most people
black, and the volante, an amusing-looking vehicle, looking behind like a
black insect with high shoulders, and with a little black postilion on a
horse or mule, with an enormous pair of boots and a fancy uniform.

The house in which, by the hospitality of the H---a family we are
installed, has from its windows, which front the bay, the most varied and
interesting view imaginable. As it is the first house, Spanish fashion,
which I have entered, I must describe it to you before I sleep. The house
forms a great square, and you enter the court, round which are the offices,
the rooms for the negroes, coal-house, bath-room, etc., and in the middle
of which stand the volantes. Proceed upstairs, and enter a large gallery
which runs all round the house. Pass into the _Sala_, a large cool
apartment, with marble floor and tables, and _chaise-longues_ with elastic
cushions, chairs, and arm-chairs of cane. A drapery of white muslin and
blue silk divides this from a second and smaller drawing-room, now serving
as my dressing-room, and beautifully fitted up, with Gothic toilet-table,
inlaid mahogany bureau, marble centre and side-tables, fine mirrors, cane
sofas and chairs, green and gold paper. A drapery of white muslin and rose-
coloured silk divides this from a bedroom, also fitted up with all manner
of elegances. French beds with blue silk coverlids and clear mosquito
curtains, and fine lace. A drapery divides this on one side from the
gallery; and this room opens into others which run all round the house. The
floors are marble or stucco--the roofs beams of pale blue wood placed
transversely, and the whole has an air of agreeable coolness. Everything is
handsome without being gaudy, and admirably adapted for the climate. The
sleeping apartments have no windows, and are dark and cool, while the
drawing-rooms have large windows down to the floor, with green shutters
kept closed till the evening.

The mosquitoes have now commenced their evening song, a signal that it is
time to put out the lights. The moon is shining on the bay, and a faint
sound of military music is heard in the distance, while the sea moans with
a sad but not unpleasing monotony. To all these sounds I retire to rest.




LETTER THE SECOND


Havana Aristocracy--"Lucia de Lammermoor"--La Rossi and Montresor--Brig-
of-war--Countess de V---a--Dinner at H---a's--Southerly Winds--View from
the Balcony--_Quinta_ of Count V---a--San Cristobal--Mass at San Felipe--
Erard Harp--Dinner at General M---o's--A Dessert at Havana--Queen of
Spain's Birthday--Dinner at the Yntendencia--La Pantanelli--Theatre of
Tacon--Railroad--Cure by Lightning--Shops--Ball at the Countess F---a's--
Last Visit--Souvenirs.

15th.--We expected hospitality and a good reception, but certainly all our
expectations have been surpassed, and the last few days have been spent in
such a round of festivity, that not a moment has been left for writing. At
home we have held a levee to all that is most distinguished in Havana.
Counts, marquesses, and generals, with stars and crosses, have poured in
and poured out ever since our arrival. I do not pretend to form any
judgment of Havana. We have seen it too much _en beau_.

Last evening we found time to go to the theatre. The opera was "Lucia de
Lammermoor." The _prima donna_, La Rossi, has a voice of much sweetness,
sings correctly and with taste, is graceful in her movements, but sadly
deficient in strength. Still she suits the character represented, and comes
exactly up to my idea of poor Lucy, devoted and broken-hearted, physically
and morally weak. Though the story is altered, and the interest weakened,
how graceful the music is! how lovely and full of melody! The orchestra is
good, and composed of blacks and whites, like the notes of a piano, mingled
in harmonious confusion.

The theatre is remarkably pretty and airy, and the pit struck us as being
particularly clean and respectable. All the seats are red leather
arm-chairs, and all occupied by well-dressed people.

At the end of the first act, we went round to the Countess F---a's box, to
return a visit which she had made me in the morning. We found her extremely
agreeable and full of intelligence, also with a very decided air of
fashion. She was dressed in fawn-coloured satin, with large pearls. At the
end of the second act, Lucia was taken ill, her last aria missed out, and
her monument driven on the stage without further ceremony. Montresor, the
Ravenswood of the piece, came in, sung, and stabbed himself with immense
enthusiasm. It is a pity that his voice is deserting him, while his taste
and feeling remain. The house has altogether a French look. The boxes are
private--that is, the property of individuals, but are not shut in, which
in this climate would be suffocating. We passed out through a long file of
soldiers. The sudden transition from Yankee land to this military Spanish
negro-land is _dreamy_.

The General de la Marina (_Anglice_, admiral of the station) called some
days ago, and informed us that there is a brig of war destined to convey us
to Vera Cruz.

Amongst the ladies who have called on me, I find none more charming than
the Countess de V---a. Her voice is agreeable, her manners cordial and
easy, her expression beautiful from goodness, with animated eyes and fine
teeth, her dress quiet and rich. She is universally beloved here. I
received from her, nearly every morning, a bouquet of the loveliest flowers
from her quinta--roses, carnations, heliotrope, etc. The dinner at H---a's
to-day was a perfect feast. I sat between the Count de F---a and the Count
de S---- V----, a millionaire. Everything was served in French white and
gold porcelain, which looks particularly cool and pretty in this climate.
The Count de P---r was there and his brother; the latter a gentlemanly and
intelligent man, with a great taste for music, and whose daughter is a
first-rate singer and a charming person. After dinner we rose, according to
custom, and went into an adjoining room while they arranged the dessert,
consisting of every imaginable and unimaginable sweetmeat, with fruit,
ices, etc. The fruits I have not yet learned to like. They are certainly
wonderful and delicious productions of nature; but to eat eggs and custards
and butter off the trees, seems unnatural.

The heat to-day is terrible; with a suffocating south wind blowing, and
were the houses not built as they are, would be unbearable. The dinner is
served in the gallery, which is spacious and cool.

After dinner, Señor Don P---o H---a rose, and, addressing C---n, pronounced
a poetical impromptu, commemorating the late victory of Espartero, and
congratulating C---n on his mission to the Mexican republic. We then
adjourned to the balcony, where the air was delightful, a cool evening
breeze having suddenly sprung up. A large ship, full sail, and various
barks, passed the View From the Balcony Morro. There were negroes with bare
legs walking on the wall, carrying parcels, etc.; volantes passing by with
their black-eyed occupants, in full dress, short sleeves, and flowers in
their hair; well-dressed, martial-looking Spanish soldiers marching by, and
making tolerably free remarks on the ladies in the volantes.... We had a
visit from the Captain-General.

In the evening we went out to see the Countess de V---a, at her pretty
quinta, a short way out of town, and walked in the garden by moonlight,
amongst flowers and fountains. The little count is already one of the
chamberlains to the Queen, and a diamond key has been sent him by Queen
Christina in token of her approbation of his father's services. These
country retreats are delightful after the narrow streets and impure air of
the city.... We saw there a good engraving of Queen Victoria, with the
Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Normanby.

17th.--Yesterday we went to see the procession of the patron saint, San
Cristobal, from the balconies of the Yntendencia. It is a fine spacious
building, and, together with the Captain-General's palace, stands in the
Plaza de Armas, which was crowded with negroes and negresses, all dressed
in white, with white muslin and blonde mantillas, framing and showing off
their dusky physiognomies.

Two regiments, with excellent bands of music, conducted the procession,
composed of monks and priests. San Cristobal, a large figure with thick
gold legs, surrounded by gold angels with gold wings, was carried by to the
music of "_Suoni la tromba_," to which were adapted the words of a hymn in
praise of Liberty.

We attended mass in the morning in the church of San Felipe, and entered,
preceded, according to custom, by a little negro footman carrying a piece
of carpet. There were few people in church, but the grouping was
picturesque. The black faces of the negresses, with their white mantillas
and white satin shoes; the black silk dresses and black lace mantillas of
the Havana ladies, with their white faces and black eyes, and little
liveried negroes standing behind them; the officers, music, and
long-bearded priests--all were very effective.

Found, on my return, an excellent Erard harp, sent me by the Marquesa de
A---s, a pretty woman and female Croesus.

A splendid entertainment was given us to-day by General M---o. His house is
large and cool; the dinner, as usual, in the gallery; and although there
were ninety-seven guests, and as many negroes in waiting, the heat was not
oppressive. The jewels of the ladies were superb, especially the diamonds
of the M---- family; sprays, necklaces, earrings, really beautiful. The
Marquesa de A---- wore a set of emeralds the size of small eggs. She had a
pretty, graceful-looking daughter with her, with beautiful eyes. Even the
men were well sprinkled with diamonds and rubies.

The dessert, from variety and quantity, was a real curiosity. Immense vases
and candelabras of alabaster were placed at different distances on the
table, and hundreds of porcelain dishes were filled with sweetmeats and
fruits-sweetmeats of every description, from the little meringue called
"mouthful for a queen," to the blancmanger made of supreme de volaille and
milk.

After dinner our health was drank, and another poetical address pronounced.
The evening concluded with music and the Havana country-dances.

20th.--Yesterday being the Queen of Spain's birthday, a dinner was given to
us at the Yntendencia. The house in size is a palace, and the apartments
innumerable. The dinner very elegant, and the dessert arranged in another
room, a curiosity as usual for profusion and variety. Her Majesty's health
was proposed by Don B---o H---a, and so well-timed, that all the guns of
the forts fired a salute, it being sunset, just as the toast was concluded,
which was drank with real enthusiasm and hearty goodwill. According to
Spanish custom, the aristocracy generally _se tutoient_, and call each
other by their Christian names; indeed, they are almost all connected by
inter-marriages. You may guess at an inferior in rank, only by their
increased respect towards him.

We stood on the balcony in the evening. The scene was beautiful, the
temperature rather warm, yet delicious from the softness of the breeze. The
moon rose so bright that she seemed like the sun shining through a silvery
veil. Groups of figures were sauntering about in the square, under the
trees, and two bands having stationed themselves with lamps and music,
played alternately pieces from Mozart and Bellini. We regretted leaving so
delightful a scene for the theatre, where we arrived in time to hear La
Pantanelli sing an aria, dressed in helmet and Theatre of Tacon tunic, and
to see La Jota Arragonesa danced by two handsome Spanish girls in good
style.

One evening we went to the theatre of Tacon, to the Captain-General's box.
It is certainly a splendid house, large, airy, and handsome. The play was
the "Campanero de San Pablo," which, though generally liked, appears to me
a complicated and unnatural composition, with one or two interesting
scenes. The best actor was he who represented the blind man. The chief
actress is an overgrown dame, all fat and dimples, who kept up a constant
sobbing and heaving of her chest, yet never getting rid of an eternal smirk
upon her face. A bolero, danced afterwards by two Spanish damsels in black
and silver, was very refreshing.

23rd.--To-morrow we sail in the Jason, should the wind not prove contrary.
Visits, dinners, and parties have so occupied our time, that to write has
been next to impossible. Of the country we have, from the same reason, seen
little, and the people we are only acquainted with in full dress, which is
not the way to judge of them truly. One morning, indeed, we dedicated to
viewing the works of the Yntendente, the railroad, and the water-filterers.
He and the Countess, and a party of friends, accompanied us.

The country through which the railroad passes is flat and rather
monotonous; nevertheless, the quantity of wild flowers, which appeared for
the most part of the convolvulus species, as we glanced past them--the
orange-trees, the clumps of palm and cocoa, the plantain with its gigantic
leaves, the fresh green coffee-plant, the fields of sugar-cane of a still
brighter green, the half-naked negroes, the low wooden huts, and, still
more, the scorching sun in the month of November,--all was new to us, and
sufficient to remind us of the leagues of ocean we had traversed, though
this is but a halt on our voyage.

At the village where the cars stopped, we listened with much amusement to
the story of a fat, comfortable-looking individual, who was cured by
lightning in the following manner:--He was in the last stage of a decline,
when, one hot July morning, he was knocked down by a thunderbolt, a ball of
fire, which entered his side, ran all through his body, and came out at his
arm. At the place where the ball made its exit, a large ulcer was formed,
and when it dispersed he found himself in perfect health, in which he has
continued ever since! In such cases the "bottled lightning," demanded by
Mrs. Nickleby's admirer, might be a valuable remedy.

Of course I could not leave Havana without devoting one morning to
shopping. The shops have most seducing names--Hope, Wonder, Desire, etc.
The French modistes seem to be wisely improving their time, by charging
respectable prices for their work. The shop-keepers bring their goods out
to the volante, it not being the fashion for ladies to enter the shops,
though I took the privilege of a foreigner to infringe this rule
occasionally. Silks and satins very dear--lace and muslin very reasonable,
was, upon the whole, the result of my investigation; but as it only lasted
two hours, and that my sole purchases of any consequence, were an
indispensable mantilla, and a pair of earrings, I give my opinion for the
present with due diffidence.

I can speak with more decision on the subject of a great ball given us by
the Countess F---a, last evening, which was really superb. The whole house
was thrown open--there was a splendid supper, quantities of refreshment,
and the whole select aristocracy of Havana. Diamonds on all the women,
jewels and orders on all the men, magnificent lustres and mirrors, and a
capital band of music in the gallery.

The Captain-General was the only individual in a plain dress. He made
himself very agreeable, in good French. About one hundred couple stood up
in each country-dance, but the rooms are so large and so judiciously
lighted, that we did not feel at all warm. Waltzes, quadrilles, and these
long Spanish dances, succeeded each other. Almost all the girls have fine
eyes and beautiful figures, but without colour, or much animation. The
finest diamonds were those of the Countess F---a, particularly her
necklace, which was _undeniable_.

Walking through the rooms after supper, we were amused to see the negroes
and negresses helping them-selves plentifully to the sweetmeats, uncorking
and drinking fresh bottles of Champagne, and devouring everything on the
supper tables, without the slightest concern for the presence either of
their master or mistress; in fact, behaving like a multitude of spoilt
children, who are sure of meeting with indulgence, and presume upon it.

Towards morning we were led downstairs to a large Souvenirs suite of rooms,
containing a library of several thousand volumes; where coffee, cakes,
etc., were prepared in beautiful Sevres porcelain and gold plate. We left
the house at last to the music of the national hymn of Spain, which struck
up as we past through the gallery.

Should the north wind, the dreaded _Norte_, not blow, we sail to-morrow,
and have spent the day in receiving farewell visits. We also went to the
theatre, where every one predicts we shall not get off to-morrow. The play
was "Le Gamin de Paris," translated. After our return, I paid a very late
visit to the P---r family, who live close by us, and now, at two in the
morning, I finish my letter sleepily. Many beautiful _souvenirs_ have been
sent us, and amongst others, the Count de S---- V---- has just sent C---n a
model of the palace of Madrid, one of the most beautiful and ingenious
pieces of workmanship possible. It is carved in wood, with astonishing
accuracy and delicacy.

My next letter will be dated on board the Jason.




LETTER THE THIRD


Departure in the Jason--Spanish Captain and Officers--Life on board a
Man-of-War--"_Balances_"--Fishing--"_Le Petit Tambour_"--Cocoa-nuts--A
_Norte_--Spanish Proverb--Peak of Orizava--Theory and Practice--_Norte
Chocolatero_--Contrary Winds--Chain of Mountains--Goleta.


JASON, 24th November.


This morning, at six o'clock, we breakfasted, together with Captain
Estrada, the commander of the Jason, at the _Casa H---a_; and the wind
being fair, repaired shortly after in volantes to the wharf, accompanied by
our hospitable host, and several of our acquaintances; entered the boat,
looked our last of the Palace and the Yntendencia, and of Havana itself,
where we had arrived as strangers, and which now, in fifteen days, had
begun to assume a familiar aspect, and to appear interesting in our eyes,
by the mere force of human sympathy; and were transported to the ship,
where a line of marines, drawn up to receive us, presented arms as we
entered. The morning was beautiful; little wind, but fair. We took leave of
our friends, waved our handkerchiefs to the balconies in return for signals
from scarcely-distinguishable figures, passed between the red-tinted Cabana
and the stately Morro, and were once more upon the deep, with a remembrance
behind, and a hope before us. Our _Bergantina_ is a handsome vessel, with
twenty-five guns, five officers, a doctor, chaplain, and purser, and one
hundred and fifty men.

We find the commander very attentive, and a perfect gentleman, like almost
all of his class, and though very young in appearance, he has been
twenty-nine years in the service.

25th.--The weather delightful, and the ship going at the rate of five knots
an hour. The accommodations in a brig not destined for passengers are of
course limited. There is a large cabin for the officers, separated by a
smaller one, belonging to the captain, which he has given up to us.

At seven o'clock C---n rises, and at eight, a marine sentinel, transformed
into a lady's page, whom we are taking to Mexico as porter, brings us some
very delicious chocolate. He is followed by the Captain's familiar, an
unhappy-looking individual, pale, lank, and lean, with the physiognomy of a
methodist parson, and in general appearance like a weed that has grown up
in one night. He tremblingly, and with most rueful countenance, carries a
small plate of sugar-biscuits. These originals having vacated the cabin, I
proceed to dress, an operation of some difficulty, which being performed
_tant bien que mal_, I repair upstairs, armed with book and fan, and sit on
deck till ten o'clock, when the familiar's lamentable announcement of
breakfast takes us down again. The cook being French, the _comestibles_ are
decidedly good, and were the artist a little less of an oil, and more of a
water painter, I individually would prefer his style. We have every variety
of fish, meat, fowl, fruit, _dulces_, and wines.

A very long interval has to be filled up by reading, writing, sitting, or
walking upon deck, as suits the taste of the individual, or by drinking
orangeade, or by sleeping, or by any other ingenious resource for killing
time. At five, dinner, at which no one joins us but the captain and one
officer; and after dinner on deck till bed-time, walking about, or gazing
on the sky or sea, or listening to the songs of the sailors.

26th.--Little wind, but a day of such abominably cruel "_balances_," as
they call them, that one is tempted to find rest by jumping overboard.
Everything broken or breaking. Even the cannons disgorge their balls, which
fall out by their own weight.

28th.--We have had two days of perfect weather though very warm; the sky
blue, without one cloud. To-day we are on the sound, and have lain to,
about noon, to let the sailors fish, thereby losing an hour or so of fair
wind, and catching a preposterous number of fish of immense size. The water
was so clear, that we could see the fish rush and seize the bait as fast as
it was thrown in. Sometimes a huge shark would bite the fish in two, so
that the poor finny creature was between Scylla and Charybdis. These fish
are called _cherne_ and _pargo_, and at dinner were pronounced good. At
length a shark, in its wholesale greediness, seized the bait, and feeling
the hook in his horrid jaw, tugged most fiercely to release himself, but in
vain. Twelve sailors hauled him in, when, with distended jaws, he seemed to
look out for the legs of the men, whereupon they rammed the butt-end of a
harpoon down his throat, which put a stop to all further proceedings on his
part. He was said to be quite young, perhaps the child of doting parents.
The juvenile monster had, however, already cut three rows of teeth.

We are sometimes amused in the evening, when upon deck, by a little
drummer, who invariably collects all the sailors round him, and spins them
long, endless stories of his own invention, to which they listen with
intense interest. On he goes, without a moment's hesitation, inventing
everything most improbable and wonderful; of knights and giants and
beautiful princesses, and imprisoned damsels, and poor peasants becoming
great kings. He is a little ugly, active fellow, with a turned-up nose, a
merry eye, and a laughing mouth. Amongst his axioms is the following verse,
which he sings with great expression.

  Hasta los palos del monte
  Tienen su destinacion
  Unos nacen para santos
  Y otros para hacer carbon.

which may be translated so:

  Even the mountain-trees
  Have their allotted goal,
  For some are born for saints
  Whilst others serve for coal.

29th.--Beautiful day, fair wind, great heat, and more fishing. At least
thirty large fish were caught this morning, also an infant shark, a
grandchild who had wandered forth to nibble, and met an untimely grave. We
have seen several alacrans or scorpions on board, but these are said not to
be poisonous. The ship is the perfection of cleanness. No disagreeable
odour affects the olfactory nerves, in which it has a singular advantage
over all packets. This, and having it all to ourselves, and the officers
being such perfect gentlemen, and all so kind and attentive, makes our
voyage so far a mere pleasure trip.

We had some of the Countess de V----'s cocoa-nuts, of which she sent us a
great supply, pierced this morning, each containing three tumblers of fresh
and delicious water.

1st December.--We are now about thirty leagues from Vera Cruz, and if the
wind blows a little fresher, may reach it to-morrow. This is Sunday, but
the chaplain is too sick to say mass, and the heat is intense.

2nd.--An unpleasant variety--a _Norte!_ I knew it was coming on, only by
the face of the first lieutenant when he looked at the barometer. His
countenance fell as many degrees as the instrument. It is very slight, but
our entry into port will be delayed, for, on the coast, these winds are
most devoutly dreaded. It has rained all day, and, notwithstanding the
rolling of the ship, we attempted a game at chess, but after having tried
two games, abandoned it in despair, a "_balance_" having, at the most
interesting period of each, overturned the board, and left the victory
undecided, somewhat after the fashion of Homer's goddess, when she
enveloped the contending armies in a cloud.

4th.--Yesterday evening a south wind, and the Spanish proverb says truly

 "Sur duro, Norte seguro."

 "A south wind strong, The norther ere long."

This morning the sky is covered with watery clouds, yet we can see the
Cofre de Perote and the peak of Orizava, which are thirty leagues inland!
The latter, called by the Mexicans, Citlal Tepetl, or the mountain of the
star, from the fire which used to burn on its lofty summit, rises nineteen
thousand five hundred and fifty-one feet above the level of the sea.
Covered with perpetual snows, and rising far above clouds and tempests, it
is the first mountain which the navigator discovers as he approaches these
shores.

But the south wind continues and we are obliged to turn our back to the
coast. There is much impatience on board. A---- was taken ill, and declared
she had got the yellow fever. The doctor was sent for, who, very sick
himself, and holding by the table to keep himself from falling, told her,
without looking at her very particularly, that there was nothing the
matter, only to keep yourself "_quite quiet and still_;" and the ship
rolling at the same moment, he pitched head-foremost out of the cabin,
showing practically how much easier precept is than example. As we shall no
doubt have a norther after this, which may last three days, our promised
land is still at some distance.

5th.--The weather is charming, but the south-west wind holds most
implacably, and the barometer has fallen five or six degrees, which, added
to other signs of the times known to navigators, causes all hands to
prepare for the dreaded enemy.

6th.--Job never was on board a ship. A norther, not a very severe one, but
what they call a _Norte chocolatero_, that is, its shock tore a sail in
two, as I tear this sheet of paper. The most ingenious person I see is "the
master of the sails." He sews most excessively quick and well. Towards
evening the wind calmed, but the ship, tossed upon a horribly swelled sea,
became a mortal purgatory. Still the wind is lulled, though Humboldt and
others say a Norte must last forty-eight hours, and we have only had it for
twenty-four. We shall see.

7th.--A most horrible night! My hammock, which I had foolishly preferred to
a bed, not having room to swing in, threw me furiously against the wall,
till fearing a broken head, I jumped out and lay on the floor. To-day there
is a comparative calm, a faint continuation of the Norte, which is an air
with variations. Everything now seems melancholy and monotonous. We have
been tossed about during four days in sight of Vera Cruz, and are now
further from it than before. The officers begin to look miserable; even the
cook with difficulty preserves his equilibrium.

Sunday, 8th.--A Norte! The sky is watery, and covered with shapeless masses
of reddish clouds. This is a great day amongst all Spanish Catholics, _Le
Virgen de la Concepción_, the patroness of Spain and the Indies; but no
mass to-day; the padre sick and the Norte blowing. What a succession of
long faces--walking barometers!

9th.--Yesterday evening the wind held out false hopes, and every one
brightened up with caution, for the wind, though faintly, blew from the
right quarter. The rain ceased, the weather cleared, and "hope, the
charmer," smiled upon us. The greater was our disappointment when the
breeze died away, when the wind veered to the north, and when once more the
most horrible rolling seized the unfortunate Jason, as if it were possessed
by a demon. Finding it impossible to lie in my hammock, I stretched myself
on the floor; where, during a night that seemed interminable, we were
tossed up and down, knocked against the furniture, and otherwise
maltreated.

This morning there is little wind, but that little from the north, so that
the termination of our voyage appears as far off now as it did eight days
ago. The faces of all on board are calmly lugubrious. Little said. A few
Spanish shrugs interchanged with ominous significance.

10th.--As there is only one particular wind during which it is not
dangerous to approach the coast, namely, "_la brisa_," the breeze which
usually follows the norther, we may spend our Christmas here. The weather
is beautiful, though very sultry, especially during the calms which
intervene between the _nortes_. With books one might take patience, but I
read and re-read backwards and forwards everything I possess, or can
find--reviews, magazines, a volume of Humboldt, even an odd volume of the
"Barber of Paris"--"Turkish Letters," _purporting_ to be the translation of
a continuation of the Montesquieu's "Lettres Persanes," and in which the
hero, disguised as a gardener, brings the Visier's daughter a bouquet,
which she condescendingly receives, lying in bed _a l'Espagnole!_ I am now
reduced to a very serious Spanish work on the truth of Christianity.

This evening, to the joy of all on board, arose the long-desired breeze.
The ship went slowly and steadily on her course, at first four, then eight
knots an hour. The captain, however, looked doubtingly, and, indeed,
towards morning, the wind changed to the south, and our hopes died away.

11th.--Contrary wind. A south, expected to be followed by a "norte seguro."
But now, at eleven, A.M., it is quite calm, and very sultry, whilst to
increase, if possible, our weariness, a long range of lofty mountains
stretches along the horizon, from Punta Delgada to the Cofre de Perote, and
on till they seem to sink in the ocean. Behind the Cofre rises Orizava, now
like a white cloud, but this morning tinged with a rosy light by the rays
of the rising sun. The sea is tranquil and the horizon clear, nevertheless
the enemy is looked for. There are a few white and feathery clouds
flickering about in the sky, and there is an uneasy swell in the waves....
At three o'clock, out burst the norther, which, like the flaming sword,
guarding the issues of paradise,

 "Waved over by that flaming brand, the gate
 With dreadful faces throng'd and fiery arms,"

seems to warn off all vessels from approaching these iron-bound shores.
Eleven days within a few hours' distance of the coast!

16th.--Five days more passed with a continuation of contrary winds and
constant rolling. We are further from hope than we were fourteen days ago.
Captain, officers, sailors, all seem nearly disheartened. This morning they
caught the most beautiful fish I ever beheld, of the dolphin
species--the Cleopatra of the ocean, about four feet long, apparently
composed of gold, and studded with turquoises. It changed colour in dying.
There is a proverb, which the sailors are repeating to each other, not very
encouraging:

  "Este es el viage del Orinoco.
  Que él que no se murio, se volvió loco."

  "This is the voyage of the Orinoco,
  in which he who did not die, became crazy."

17th.--Spoke a goleta, who came close up by our vessel, and seemed to have
a miserable set on board, amongst others, a worthy pair from Havana, who
had just come out of prison, having been accused of murdering a negro. The
wind continues contrary. I shall fold up this sea-scrawl, and write no more
till we reach Vera Cruz.




LETTER THE FOURTH


Distant View of Vera Cruz--Pilots--Boat from the City--Mutual
Salutes--Approach to Vera Cruz--Crowd on the Wharf--House of Dionisio
V---o--Guard of Honour--German Piano--Supper--Madonna--Aspect of the
City--_Sopilotes_--Deliberations--General Guadalupe Victoria--Two-headed
Eagle--Dilapidated Saint--Harp--Theatre--Donna Inocencia
Martinez--Invitation from General Santa Anna.


VERA CRUZ, 18th.


This morning, the sanguine hoped, and the desponding feared, for the wind,
though inclined to _la brisa_, seemed unlikely to prove sufficiently strong
to enable us to reach Vera Cruz--this being the twenty-fifth day since we
left Havana; a voyage that, with a steamer, might be performed in three
days, and with a sailing-vessel and a fair wind, is made in six or seven.
About noon, the aspect of things became more favourable. The breeze grew
stronger, and with it our hopes.

At last appeared in view, faintly, certain spires beside the low sandy
land, which for some time we had anxiously watched, and at length we could
distinguish houses and churches, and the fort of San Juan de Ulua, of
warlike memory. By slow but sure degrees, we neared the shore, until Vera
Cruz, in all its ugliness, became visible to our much-wearied eyes. We had
brought a pilot from Havana to guide us to these dangerous coasts, but
though a native of these parts, it seemed that a lapse of years had blunted
his memory, for we had nearly run upon the rocks. A gun was therefore
fired, and another pilot came out, who at sight of the Spanish flag waxed
enthusiastic, and pointing out the castle to our ignorant friend,
exclaimed, alluding to the desperate struggle made by the Spaniards to
defend this their last stronghold at the end of the war, "_We_, although
but a handful of men, defended ourselves for years like soldiers, and now
these Frenchmen took it in three days!" and, walking about in a transport
of patriotic despair, he seemed to forget his actual duty in the tide of
remembrances which the sight of Spanish colours and a Spanish crew had
called forth.

Anything more melancholy, _delabre_ and forlorn, than the whole appearance
of things as we drew near, cannot well be imagined. On one side, the fort,
with its black and red walls: on the other, the miserable, black-looking
city, with hordes of large black birds, called _sopilotes_, hovering over
some dead carcass, or flying heavily along in search of carrion. Still, as
the goal of our voyage, even its dreary aspect was welcome, and the very
hills of red sand by which it is surrounded, and which look like the
deserts of Arabia, appeared inviting.

A boat full of cocked hats was now seen approaching from the city,
containing the Consul in full uniform, and other authorities. C---n having
sent for and obtained permission from the Governor, to permit the Jason,
contrary to established usages, to anchor beneath the castle, a salute of
twenty guns was fired from our ship. Being upon deck, I was nearly
suffocated with smoke and powder. A salute of the same number of cannon was
then fired from the castle, in honour of the first Spanish man-of-war that
has appeared in this port since the Revolution.

And now we prepared, before the sun went down, to leave our watery prison;
and the captain's boat being manned, and having taken leave of the
officers, we, that is, C---n, the commander, and I, and my French maid and
her French poodle, got into it. Then came a salute of twenty guns from the
Jason in our honour, and we rode off amidst clouds of smoke. Then the fort
gave us welcome with the same number of guns, and, amidst all this
cannonading, we were landed at the wharf.

A singular spectacle the wharf presented. A crowd, as far as the eye could
reach, of all ages and sexes of Vera Cruzians (and a very curious set they
seemed to be), were assembled to witness his Excellency's arrival. Some had
no pantaloons; and others, to make up for their neighbours' deficiencies,
had two pair--the upper slit up the side of the leg, Mexican fashion. All
had large hats, with silver or bead rolls, and every tinge of dark
complexion, from the pure Indian, upwards. Some dresses were entirely
composed of rags, clinging together by the attraction of cohesion; others
had only a few holes to let in the air. All were crowding, jostling, and
nearly throwing each other into the water, and gazing with faces of intense
curiosity.

But a plume of coloured feathers was seen towering above the
copper-coloured crowd, and immediate passage was made for an aide-de-camp
from the Governor, General Guadalupe Victoria. He was an immensely tall
man, in a showy uniform all covered with gold, with colossal epaulets and a
towering plume of rainbow-coloured feathers. He brought to C---n the
welcome and congratulations of the General, and those Spanish offers of
service and devotion which sound agreeably, whatever be their true value.

We now began to move through the crowd, which formed a line on either side
to let us pass, and entered the streets of Vera Cruz, which were crowded,
balconies and all, and even roofs with curious faces. The guard formed as
we passed, and struck up a march. The principal street is wide and clean,
and we reached the house of Señor V---o, a rich merchant, formerly consul,
where we are to reside, followed to the door by the whole population. We
were received with great hospitality, and found excellent rooms prepared
for us. The house is immensely large and airy, built in a square as they
all are, but with that unfurnished melancholy look, which as yet this style
of house has to me, though admirably adapted to the climate.

A guard of honour sent by General Victoria, trotted into the courtyard,
whose attendance C---n declined with thanks, observing that his mission had
for object to terminate the coolness hitherto existing between two families
of brothers; that between members of the same family there was nothing to
fear, and all compliments were unnecessary.

I found a German piano in the drawing-room, on which I was glad to put my
fingers after a month's abstinence. A number of gentlemen came in the
evening to visit C---n. We were received by this family with so much real
kindness, that we soon found ourselves perfectly at home. We had a
plentiful supper--fish, meat, wine, and chocolate, fruit and sweetmeats;
the cookery, Spanish _Vera-Cruzified_. A taste of the style was enough for
me, garlic and oil enveloping meat, fish, and fowl, with pimentos and
plantains, and all kinds of curious fruit, which I cannot yet endure. Bed
was not unwelcome, and most comfortable beds we had, with mosquito
curtains, and sheets and pillows all trimmed with rich lace, so universal
in Spanish houses, that it is not, as with us, a luxury. But the mosquitoes
had entered in some unguarded moment, and they and the heat were inimical
to sleep.

19th.--I opened my eyes this morning on the painting of a very lovely
Madonna, which hung unvalued and ill-framed, in one corner of the
apartment. At eight, rose and dressed, and went to breakfast. Here, when
there are two guests whom they wish to distinguish, the gentleman is placed
at the head of the table, and _his_ lady beside him.

To me nothing can exceed the sadness of the aspect of this city and of its
environs--mountains of moving sand, formed by the violence of the north
winds, and which, by the reflection of the sun's rays, must greatly
increase the suffocating heat of the atmosphere. The scene may resemble the
ruins of Jerusalem, though without its sublimity. The houses seemed
blackened by fire; there is not a carriage on the streets--nothing but the
men with the wide trousers slit up the side of the leg, immense hats, and
blankets, or _sarapes_, merely a closed blanket, more or less fine, with a
hole for the head to go through; and the women with _reboses_, long
coloured cotton scarfs, or pieces of ragged stuff, thrown over the head and
crossing over the left shoulder. Add to this, the sopilotes cleaning the
streets,--disgusting, but useful scavengers. These valuable birds have
black feathers, with gray heads, beaks, and feet. They fly in troops, and
at night perch upon the trees. They are not republican, nor do they appear
inclined to declare their independence, having kings, to whom it is said
they pay so much respect, that if one of the royal species arrives at the
same time with a plebeian sopilote, in sight of a dead body, the latter
humbly waits till the sovereign has devoured his share, before he ventures
to approach.

A few ladies in black gowns and mantillas called this morning, and various
men. We find the weather sultry. In summer, with greater heat and the
addition of the _vomito_, it must be a chosen city! The principal street,
where we live, is very long and wide, and seems to have many good houses in
it. Nearly opposite is one which seems particularly well kept and handsome,
and where we saw beautiful flowers as we passed. I find it belongs to an
English merchant.

There is much deliberation as to the mode in which we are to travel to
Mexico. Some propose a coach, others a _litera_; others advise us to take
the diligence. While in this indecision, we had a visit this morning from a
remarkable-looking character, Don Miguel S----, agent for the diligence
office in Mexico, a tall, dark, energetic-looking person. He recommends the
diligence, and offers, by accompanying us, to ensure our safety from
accidents. He appears right. The diligence goes in four days, if it does
not break down. The coach takes any time we choose over that; the _literas_
nine or ten days, going slowly on mules with a sedan-chair motion. The
diligence has food and beds provided for it at the inns--the others
nothing. I am in favour of the diligence.

The couple from Havana, whom we passed in the _goleta_, have very coolly
requested permission to accompany us to Mexico, "under the protection of
the _Embajador de Espana_." We should set off in select company.

C---n called this morning on General Victoria. Found his excellency in a
large hall without furniture or ornament of any sort, without even chairs,
and altogether in a style of more than republican simplicity. He has just
returned the visit, accompanied by his colossal aide-de-camp.

General Guadalupe Victoria is perhaps the last man in a crowd whom one
would fix upon as being the owner of the above high-sounding cognomen,
which in fact is not his original, but his assumed name, _Guadalupe_ being
adopted by him in honour of the renowned image of the virgin of that name,
and _Victoria_ with less humility to commemorate his success in battle. He
is an honest, plain, down-looking citizen, lame and tall, somewhat at a
loss for conversation, apparently amiable and good-natured, but certainly
neither courtier nor orator; a man of undeniable bravery, capable of
supporting almost incredible hardships, humane, and who has always proved
himself a sincere lover of what he considered liberty, without ever having
been actuated by ambitious or interested motives.

It is said that his defects were indolence, want of resolution, and too
much reliance on his own knowledge. He is the only Mexican president who
finished as chief magistrate, the term prescribed by the laws. It is
alleged, in proof of his simplicity, though I think it is too absurd to be
true, that having received a despatch with the two-headed eagle on the
seal, he remarked to the astonished envoy who delivered it--"Our arms are
very much alike, only I see that his majesty's eagles have two heads. I
have heard that some of that species exist here, in _tierre caliente_, and
shall have one sent for."

The general is not married, but appears rather desirous of entering the
united state. He strongly recommends us to avoid broken bones by going it
literas, at least as far as Jalapa. Having stumbled about for some time in
search of his cocked-hat, it was handed to him by his aide-de-camp, and he
took leave.

We walked out in the evening to take a look of the environs, with Señor
V---o, the commander of the Jason, and several young ladies of the house.
We walked in the direction of an old church, where it is or was the custom
for young ladies desirous of being married to throw a stone at the saint,
their fortune depending upon the stone's hitting him, so that he is in a
lapidated and dilapidated condition. Such environs! the surrounding houses
black with smoke of powder or with fire--a view of bare red sandhills all
round--not a tree, or shrub, or flower, or bird, except the horrid black
sopilote, or police-officer. All looks as if the prophet Jeremiah had
passed through the city denouncing woe to the dwellers thereof. Such a
melancholy, wholly deserted-looking burial-ground as we saw!

War and revolutions have no doubt done their work, yet I find difficulty in
believing those who speak of Vera Cruz as having been a gay and delightful
residence in former days, though even now, those who have resided here for
any length of time, even foreigners, almost invariably become attached to
it; and as for those born here, they are the truest of patriots, holding up
Vera Cruz as superior to all other parts of the world.

The city was founded by the Viceroy, Count de Monterey, at the end of the
seventeenth century, and ought not to be confounded, as it sometimes is,
with either of the two colonies founded by the first Spaniards. Built in
front of the island of San Juan de Ulua, it has one interesting
recollection attached to it, since on the same arid shores, Cortes
disembarked more than three centuries ago. Unlike the green and fertile
coast which gladdened the eyes of Columbus, the Spanish conqueror beheld a
bleak and burning desert, whose cheerless aspect might well have deterred a
feebler mind from going further in search of the paradise that existed
behind.

We returned to the house, and heard some ladies play upon a harp, so
called, a small, light instrument in that form, but without pedals, so
light, that they can lift it with one hand; and yet the music they bring
from it is surprising; one air after another, a little monotonously, but
with great ease and a certain execution, and with the additional merit of
being self-taught.

I imagine that there must be a great deal of musical taste thrown away
here. There are pianos in almost every house, and one lady, who came to see
me to-day, and whose mother was English, had been extremely well taught,
and played with great taste. They attempted dancing, but having no masters,
can only learn by what they _hear_. On the balcony this evening, it was
delightful, and the moon is a universal beautifier.

21st.--We walked about the city yesterday, and returned visits. The streets
are clean, and some few churches tolerably handsome.

The _Comicos_ came in the morning to offer us the centre box in the
theatre, it being the benefit night of Donna Inocencia Martinez from
Madrid, a favourite of the public, and, in fact, a pretty woman and good
comic actress. The theatre is small, and, they say, generally deserted, but
last night it was crowded. The drop-scene represents the fine arts, who are
so fat, that their condition here must be flourishing. We were, however,
agreeably disappointed in the performance, which was the "Segunda Dama
Duende," nearly a translation from the "Domino Noir," and very amusing;
full of excellent _coups-de-theatre_. Donna Inocencia in her various
characters, as domino, servant-girl, abbess, etc., was very handsome, and
acted with great spirit. Moreover, she and her sister, with two Spaniards,
danced the Jota Aragonesa in perfection, so that we spent a pleasant
evening, upon the whole, within the precincts of the city of the True
Cross.

To-morrow is the day fixed for our departure, and we shall not be sorry to
leave this place, although this house is excellent, a whole suite of rooms
given to us, and neither ceremony nor _gene_ of any sort. The weather is
certainly beautiful. The heat may be a little oppressive in the middle of
the day, but the evenings are cool and delightful.


Departure from Vera Cruz


We had a visit yesterday from the English and French consuls. M.
de ----- prophesies broken arms and dislodged teeth, if we persist in our
plan of taking the diligence,--but all things balanced, we think it
preferable to every other conveyance. General Victoria returned to see
us this morning, and was very civil and amiable, offering very cordially
every service and assistance in his power. We are to rise to-morrow at
two, being invited to breakfast with General Santa Anna, at his
country-seat Manga de Clavo, a few leagues from this.

We have been sitting on the balcony till very late, enjoying the moonlight
and refreshing breeze from the sea, and as we rise before daybreak, our
rest will be but short.




LETTER THE FIFTH


Departure from Vera Cruz--Sandhills--Oriental Scene--Manga de
Clavo--General Santa Anna--Breakfast--Escort and Diligence--Santa
Fe--Puente National--Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward--Country in
December--Don Miguel--First Impressions--Fruit--Plan del Rio--German
Musicians--Sleeping Captain--Approach to Jalapa--Appearance of the
City--Cofre de Perote-Flowers--House and Rock--Last View of Jalapa--Change
of Scenery--San Miguel de los Soldados--Perote--Striking Scene before
Daybreak--Non-arrival of Escort--Yankee Coachman--Dispute--Departure
--Company of Lancers--Alcalde--Breakfast at La Ventilla--Pulque--Double
Escort--Crosses--Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper--Ojo de Agua--Arrival at
Puebla--Dress of the Peasants--Christmas-eve--Inn--"_Nacimento_."


JALAPA, 23rd December.


Yesterday morning at two o'clock we rose by candlelight, with the pleasant
prospect of leaving Vera Cruz and of seeing Santa Anna. Two boxes, called
carriages, drawn by mules, were at the door, to convey us to Magna de
Clavo. Señor V---o, C---n, the commander of the Jason, and I being encased
in them, we set off half-asleep. By the faint light, we could just
distinguish as we passed the gates, and the carriages ploughed their way
along nothing but sand--sand--as far as the eye could reach; a few leagues
of Arabian desert.

At length we began to see symptoms of vegetation; occasional palm-trees and
flowers, and by the time we had reached a pretty Indian village, where we
stopped to change mules, the light had broke in, and we seemed to have been
transported, as if by enchantment, from a desert to a garden. It was
altogether a picturesque and striking scene; the huts composed of bamboo,
and thatched with palm-leaves, the Indian women with their long black hair
standing at the doors with their half-naked children, the mules rolling
themselves on the ground, according to their favourite fashion, snow-white
goats browsing amongst the palm-trees, and the air so soft and balmy, the
first fresh breath of morning; the dew-drops still glittering on the broad
leaves of the banana and palm, and all around so silent, cool, and still.

The huts, though poor, were clean; no windows, but a certain subdued light
makes its way through the leafy canes. We procured some tumblers of new
milk, and having changed mules, pursued our journey, now no longer through
hills of sand, but across the country, through a wilderness of trees and
flowers, the glowing productions of tierra caliente. We arrived about five
at Manga de Clavo, after passing through leagues of natural garden, the
property of Santa Anna.

The house is pretty, slight-looking, and kept in nice order. We were
received by an aide-de-camp in uniform, and by several officers, and
conducted to a large, cool, agreeable apartment, with little furniture,
into which shortly entered the Señora de Santa Anna, tall, thin, and, at
that early hour of the morning, dressed to receive us in clear white
muslin, with white satin shoes, and with very splendid diamond earrings,
brooch, and rings. She was very polite, and introduced her daughter
Guadalupe, a miniature of her mamma, in features and costume.

In a little while entered General Santa Anna himself; a gentlemanly,
good-looking, quietly-dressed, rather melancholy-looking person, with one
leg, apparently somewhat of an invalid, and to us the most interesting
person in the group. He has a sallow complexion, fine dark eyes, soft and
penetrating, and an interesting expression of face. Knowing nothing of his
past history, one would have said a philosopher, living in dignified
retirement--one who had tried the world, and found that all was
vanity--one who had suffered ingratitude, and who, if he were ever
persuaded to emerge from his retreat, would only do so, Cincinnatus-like,
to benefit his country. It is strange, how frequently this expression of
philosophic-resignation, of placid sadness, is to be remarked on the
countenances of the deepest, most ambitious, and most designing men. C---n
gave him a letter from the Queen, written under the supposition of his
being still President, with which he seemed much pleased, but merely made
the innocent observation, "How very well the Queen writes!"

It was only now and then, that the expression of his eye was startling,
especially when he spoke of his leg, which is cut off below the knee. He
speaks of it frequently, like Sir John Ramorny of his bloody hand, and when
he gives an account of his wound, and alludes to the French on that day,
his countenance assumes that air of bitterness which Ramorny's may have
exhibited when speaking of "Harry the Smith."

Otherwise, he made himself very agreeable, spoke a great deal of the United
States, and of the persons he had known there, and in his manners was quiet
and gentlemanlike, and altogether a more polished hero than I had expected
to see. To judge from the past, he will not long remain in his present
state of inaction, besides having within him, according to Zavala, "a
principle of action for ever impelling him forward."

_En attendant_, breakfast was announced. The Señora de Santa Anna led me
in. C---n was placed at the head of the table, I on his right, Santa Anna
opposite, the Señora on my right. The breakfast was very handsome,
consisting of innumerable Spanish dishes, meat and vegetables, fish and
fowl, fruits and sweatmeats, all served in white and gold French porcelain,
with coffee, wines, etc. After breakfast, the Señora having despatched an
officer for her cigar-case, which was gold, with a diamond latch, offered
me a cigar, which I having declined, she lighted her own, a little paper
"cigarito," and the gentlemen followed her good example.

We then proceeded to look at the out-houses and offices; at the General's
favourite war-horse, an old white charger, probably a sincerer philosopher
than his master; at several game-cocks, kept with especial care,
cock-fighting being a favourite recreation of Santa Anna's; and at his
_litera_, which is handsome and comfortable. There are no gardens, but, as
he observed, the whole country, which for twelve leagues square belongs to
him, is a garden. The appearance of the family says little for the
healthiness of the _locale_; and indeed its beauty and fertility will not
compensate for its insalubrity.

As we had but a few hours to spare, the General ordered round two
carriages, both very handsome, and made in the United States, one of which
conveyed him and C---n, the Señora and me. In the other were the little
girl and the officers; in which order we proceeded across the country to
the high-road, where the diligence and servants, with our guide, Don Miguel
S----, were to overtake us. The diligence not having arrived, we got down
and sat on a stone bench, in front of an Indian cottage, where we talked,
while the young lady amused herself by eating apples, and C---n and the
General remained moralizing in the carriage.

Shortly after, and just as the sun was beginning to give us a specimen of
his power, our lumbering escort of Mexican soldiers galloped up (orders
having been given by the government that a fresh escort shall be stationed
every six leagues) and announced the approach of the diligence. We were
agreeably disappointed by the arrival of a handsome new coach, made in the
United States, drawn by ten good-looking mules, and driven by a smart
Yankee coachman. Our party consisted of ourselves, Don Miguel, the captain
of the Jason and his first lieutenant, who accompany us to Mexico. The day
was delightful, and every one apparently in good-humour. We took leave of
General Santa Anna, his lady and daughter, also of our hospitable
entertainer, Señor V---o; got into the diligence--doors shut--all
right--lash up the mules, and now for Mexico!

Gradually, as in Dante's Commedia, after leaving Purgatory, typified by
Vera Cruz, we seemed to draw nearer to Paradise. The road is difficult, as
the approach to Paradise ought to be, and the extraordinary jolts were
sufficient to prevent us from being too much enraptured by the scenery,
which increased in beauty as we advanced. At Santa Fe and Sopilote we
changed horses, and at Tolome, one of the sites of the civil war, came to
the end of Santa Anna's twelve leagues of property.

We arrived at Puente Nacional, formerly Puente del Rey, celebrated as the
scene of many an engagement during the Revolution, and by occupying which,
Victoria frequently prevented the passage of the Spanish troops, and that
of the convoys of silver to the port. Here we stopped a short time to
admire the beautiful bridge thrown over the river Antigua, with its stone
arches, which brought Mrs. Ward's sketch to my recollection, though it is
very long since I saw the book. We were accompanied by the commander of the
fort. It is now a peaceful-looking scene. We walked to the bridge, pulled
branches of large white flowers, admired the rapid river dashing over the
rocks, and the fine, bold scenery that surrounds it. The village is a mere
collection of huts, with some fine trees.

It was difficult to believe, as we journeyed on, that we were now in the
midst of December. The air was soft and balmy. The heat, without being
oppressive, that of a July day in England. The road through a succession of
woody country; trees covered with every variety of blossom, and loaded with
the most delicious tropical fruits; flowers of every colour filling the air
with fragrance, and the most fantastical profusion of parasitical plants
intertwining the branches of the trees, and flinging their bright blossoms
over every bough. Palms, cocoas, oranges, lemons, succeeded one another,
and at one turn of the road, down in a lovely green valley, we caught a
glimpse of an Indian woman, with her long hair, resting under the shade of
a lofty tree--beside a running stream--an Oriental picture. Had it not been
for the dust and the jolting, nothing could have been more delightful. As
for Don Miguel, with his head out of the window, now desiring the coachman
to go more quietly, now warning us to prepare for a jolt, now pointing out
everything worth looking at, and making light of difficulties, he was the
very best conductor of a journey I ever met with. His hat of itself was a
curiosity to us; a white beaver with immense brim, lined with thick silver
tissue, with two large silver rolls and tassels round it.

One circumstance must be observed by all who travel in Mexican territory.
There is not one human being or passing object to be seen that is not in
itself a picture, or which would not form a good subject for the pencil.
The Indian women with their plaited hair, and little children slung to
their backs, their large straw hats, and petticoats of two colours--the
long strings of arrieros with their loaded mules, and swarthy,
wild-looking faces--the chance horseman who passes with his sarape of many
colours, his high ornamented saddle, Mexican hat, silver stirrups, and
leathern boots--this is picturesque. Salvator Rosa and Hogarth might have
travelled here to advantage, hand-in-hand; Salvator for the sublime, and
Hogarth taking him up where the sublime became the ridiculous.

At La Calera we had a distant view of the sea. Occasionally we stopped to
buy oranges fresh from the trees, pineapples, and granaditas, which are
like Brobdinagian gooseberries, the pulp enclosed in a very thick yellow or
green rind, and very refreshing.

It was about seven in the evening, when very dusty, rather tired, but very
much enchanted with all we had seen, we arrived at Plan del Rio. Here the
diligence passengers generally stop for the night; that is, sleep a few
hours on a hard bed, and rise at midnight to go on to Jalapa. But to this
arrangement, I for one made vociferous objections, and strongly insisted
upon the propriety and feasibility of sleeping at Jalapa that night. Don
Miguel, the most obsequious of dons, declared that it should be exactly as
the Señora ordered.

Accordingly it was agreed that we should wait for the moon, and then pursue
our journey; and meanwhile we walked out to a short distance, to see the
bridge, the river, and the wood. The bridge consists of a single large arch
thrown over the river, and communicating with a great high-road, formerly
paved, but now going to ruin.

We returned to the inn, a long row of small rooms, built of brick and
prettily situated, not far from the water. Here we had the luxury of water
and towels, which enabled us to get rid of a certain portion of dust before
we went to supper.

The diligence from Jalapa has just deposited at the inn, a German with his
wife and child, he bearing so decidedly the stamp of a German musician,
that we at once guessed his calling. They are from Mexico, from whence the
fine arts seem to be taking their flight, and gave a most woeful account of
the road between this and Jalapa.

We had a very tolerable supper; soup, fish, fowls, steak, and frijoles, all
well seasoned with garlic and oil. The jolting had given me too bad a
headache to care for more than coffee. We were strongly advised to remain
the night there, but lazy people know too well what it is to rise in the
middle of the night, especially when they are much fatigued; and when the
moon rose, we packed ourselves once more into the diligence, sufficiently
refreshed to encounter new fatigues. The moon was very bright, and most of
the party prepared themselves for sleep with cigars in their mouths; not a
very easy matter, for the roads were infamous, a succession of holes and
rocks. As we were gradually ascending, the weather became cooler, and from
cool began to grow cold, forcing us to look out for cloaks and shawls. We
could now discern some change in the vegetation, or rather a mingling of
the trees of a colder climate with those of the tropics, especially the
Mexican oak, which begins to flourish here. Fortunately, at one part of the
road, the moon enabled us to see the captain of the escort lying on the
ground fast asleep, his horse standing quietly beside him, he having fallen
off while asleep, and continued his nap. The soldiers shook him up with
some difficulty.

At _Carral falso_ we changed mules, and from the badness of the road,
continued to go slowly.

The cold increased, and at last by the moonlight, we had a distinct view of
the Peak of Orizava, with his white nightcap on (excuse the simile,
suggested by extreme sleepiness), the very sight enough to make one shiver.

As we approached Jalapa, the scene was picturesque. The escort had put on
their _sarapes_, and with their high helmets and feathers, went galloping
along, and dashing amongst the trees and shrubs. Orizava and the Cofre de
Perote shone white in the distance, while a delicious smell of flowers,
particularly of roses, gave token of the land through which we were
passing.

It was nearly two in the morning when we reached Jalapa, tired to death,
and shivering with cold. Greatly we rejoiced as we rattled through its
mountainous streets, and still more when we found ourselves in a nice clean
inn, with brick floors and decent small beds, and everything prepared for
us. The sight of a fire would have been too much luxury; however, they gave
us some hot tea, and very shortly after, I at least can answer for myself,
that I was in bed, and enjoying the most delightful sleep that I have had
since I left New York.

This morning the diligence being at our disposal we did not rise by break
of day, but on the contrary, continued to sleep till eight o'clock. I was
waited on by such a nice, civil, clean little old woman, that I should like
to carry her off with me. Meanwhile, various authorities of the town were
stationed at the door to give C---n welcome when he should appear.

Our breakfast was delicious. Such fresh eggs, and fresh butter, and good
coffee and well-fried chickens; moreover, such good bread and peculiarly
excellent water, that we fell very much in love with Jalapa.

After breakfast we walked out, accompanied by various gentlemen of the
place. The town consists of little more than a few steep streets, very old,
with some large and excellent houses, the best as usual belonging to
English merchants, and many to those of Vera Cruz, who come to live in or
near Jalapa, during the reign of the "_Vomito_." There are some old
churches, a very old convent of Franciscan monks, and a well-supplied
marketplace. Everywhere there are flowers--roses creeping over the old
walls, Indian girls making green garlands for the virgin and saints,
flowers in the shops, flowers at the windows, but, above all, everywhere
one of the most splendid mountain views in the world.

The Cofre de Perote, with its dark pine forests and gigantic _chest_ (a
rock of porphyry which takes that form), and the still loftier snow-white
peak of Orizava, tower above all the others, seeming like the colossal
guardians of the land. The intervening mountains, the dark cliffs and
fertile plains, the thick woods of lofty trees clothing the hills and the
valleys; a glimpse of the distant ocean; the surrounding lanes shaded by
fruit trees: aloes, bananas, chirimoyas, mingled with the green
liquidambar, the flowering myrtle, and hundreds of plants and shrubs and
flowers of every colour and of delicious fragrance, all combine to form one
of the most varied and beautiful scenes that the eye can behold.

Then Jalapa itself, so old and gray, and rose-becovered, with a sound of
music issuing from every open door and window, and its soft and agreeable
temperature, presents, even in a few hours, a series of agreeable
impressions not easily effaced.

But we are now returned to our inn, for it is near noon, and the veil of
clouds, that earlier in the morning enveloped Orizava, has passed away,
leaving its white summit environed by a flood of light. I shall probably
have no opportunity of writing until we reach Puebla.


PUEBLA, 24th.


Yesterday morning we took leave of the _Jalapenos_, and once more found
ourselves _en route_. Such a view of the mountains as we ascended the steep
road! and such flowers and blossoming trees on all sides! Large scarlet
blossoms, and hanging purple and white flowers, and trees covered with
fragrant bell-shaped flowers like lilies, which the people here call the
_floripundio_, together with a profusion of double pink roses that made the
air fragrant as we passed; and here and there a church, a ruined convent,
or a white hacienda. We had the advantage of clear weather, not always to
be found at Jalapa, especially when the north wind, blowing at Vera Cruz,
covers this city and its environs with a dense fog.

We stopped at a small village to change horses (for on leaving Jalapa, our
mules were exchanged for eight strong white horses), and here Don Miguel
made us enter a very pretty house belonging to some female friends of his,
one of whom was very handsome, with a tasteful white turban. The curiosity
of this place is a rock behind the house, covered with roses,
clove-carnations, and every variety of bright flower-tree, together with
oranges, lemons, limes, and cedrats, all growing out of the rock. The
ladies were very civil, though I dare say surprised at our admiration of
their December flowers, and gave us orangeade and cake, with large cedrats
and oranges from the trees; but above all, the most delicious bouquet of
roses and carnations; so that, together with the unknown scarlet and purple
blossoms which the captain of the escort had gathered for me, the diligence
inside looked like an arbour.

We continued our journey, the road ascending towards the tableland, and at
one striking point of view we got out and looked back upon Jalapa, and
round upon a panorama of mountains. Gradually the vegetation changed: fine,
fresh-looking European herbage and trees succeeded the less hardy though
more brilliant trees and flowers of the tropics; the banana and chirimoya
gave place to the strong oak, and higher still, these were interspersed
with the dark green of the pine.

At San Miguel de los Soldados we stopped to take some refreshment. The
country became gradually more bleak, and before arriving at the village of
Las Vigas, nearly all trees had disappeared but the hardy fir, which
flourishes amongst the rocks. The ground for about two leagues was covered
with lava, and great masses of black calcined rock, so that we seemed to be
passing over the crater of a volcano. This part of the country is
deservedly called the _Mal Pais_, and the occasional crosses with their
faded garlands, that gleam in these bleak, volcanic regions, give token
that it may have yet other titles to the name of "Evil Land." The roses and
carnations that I had brought from Jalapa were still unwithered, so that in
a few hours we had passed through the whole scale of vegetation.

The road became steep and dreary, and after passing _Cruz Blanca_,
excepting occasional cornfields and sombre pine-forests, the scene had no
objects of interest sufficient to enable us to keep our eyes open. The sun
was set--it grew dusk, and by the time we reached Perote, where we were to
pass the night, most of us had fallen into an uncomfortable sleep, very
cold and quite stupefied, and too sleepy to be hungry, in spite of finding
a large supper prepared for us.

The inn was dirty, very unlike that at Jalapa, the beds miserable, and we
were quite ready to get up by the light of an unhappy specimen of tallow
which the landlord brought to our doors at two in the morning.

There are some scenes which can never be effaced from our memory, and such
a one was that which took place this morning at Perote at two o'clock, the
moon and the stars shining bright and cold.

Being dressed, I went into the kitchen, where C---n, the officers of the
Jason, Don Miguel, and the Mexican captain of the last night's escort, were
assembled by the light of one melancholy sloping candle, together with a
suspicious-looking landlord, and a few sleepy Indian women with bare feet,
tangled hair, copper faces and reboses. They made us some chocolate with
goat's milk, horrid in general, and rancid in particular.

It appeared that all parties were at a standstill, for, by some mistake in
the orders, the new escort had not arrived, and the escort of the preceding
night could go no further. Don Miguel, with his swarthy face, and great
sarape, was stalking about, rather out of humour, while the captain was
regretting, in very polite tones, with his calm, Arab-looking, impassive
face, that his escort could proceed no further. He seemed to think it
extremely probable that we should be robbed, believed, indeed had just
heard it asserted, that a party of _ladrones_ were looking out for el Señor
Ministro, regretted that he could not assist us, though quite at our
service, and recommended us to wait until the next escort should arrive.

To this advice our conductor would by no means listen. He was piqued that
any detention should occur, and yet aware that it was unsafe to go on. He
had promised to convey us safely, and in four days, to Mexico, and it was
necessary to keep his word. Some one proposed that two of the men should
accompany the diligence upon mules, as probably a couple of these animals
might be procured. The captain observed, that though entirely at our
disposal, two men could be of no manner of use, as, in case of attack,
resistance, except with a large escort, was worse than useless.
Nevertheless it was remarked by some ingenious person, that the robbers
seeing two, might imagine that there were more behind. In short there were
various opinions. One proposed that they should go on the coach, another
that they should go _in_ it. Here I ventured to interpose, begging that
they might ride on mules or go outside, but by no means within. As usual,
it was as the Señora pleased.

At length we all collected before the door of the inn, and a queer group we
must have made by the light of the moon, and a nice caricature, I thought
to myself, our friend Mr. G---- would have made of us, had he been there.

The diligence with eight white horses and a Yankee coachman, originally, no
doubt, called Brown, but now answering to the mellifluous appellation of
_Bruno_; A---- with her French cap, and loaded with sundry mysterious
looking baskets; I with cloak and bonnet; C---n with Greek cap, cloak, and
cigar; the captain of the Jason also with cloak and cigar, and very cold;
the lieutenant in his navy uniform, taking it coolly; Don Miguel, with his
great sarape and silver hat--(six people belonging to five different
countries); the Mexican captain, with his pale impassive face and
moustaches, enveloped in a very handsome sarape, and surrounded by the
sleepy escort of the preceding night; dirty-looking soldiers lounging on
the ground, wrapped in their blankets; the Indian women and the host of the
inn, and a bright moon and starry sky lighting up the whole--the figures in
the foreground, and the lofty snow-clad mountains, and the dismal old town
of Perote itself, that looked gray and sulky at being disturbed so early,
with its old castle of San Carlos, and cold, sterile plains.

Meanwhile, two soldiers with cloaks and arms had climbed up outside of the
coach. The captain remarked that they could not sit there. Bruno made some
reply, upon which the captain very coolly drew his sword, and was about to
put a very decided impediment to our journey by stabbing the coachman, when
Don Miguel, his eyes and cigar all shining angrily, rushed in between them.

High words ensued between him and the captain, and the extreme coolness and
precision with which the latter spoke, was very amusing. It was as if he
were rehearsing a speech from a play. "I always speak frankly," said Don
Miguel, in an angry tone. "And I," said the captain, in a polite, measured
voice, "am also accustomed to speak my mind with extreme frankness. I
regret, however, that I did not at the moment perceive the Señora at the
door, otherwise," etc.

At length the two little men, who with their arms and sarapes looked like
bundles of ammunition, and who, half asleep, had been by some zealous
person, probably by our friend Bruno, tumbled upon the diligence like
packages, were now rolled off it, and finally tumbled upon mules, and we
got into the coach. Don Miguel, with his head out of the window, and not
very easy in his mind, called up the two bundles and gave them directions
as to their line of conduct in a stage whisper, and they trotted off,
primed with valour, while we very cold and (I answer for myself) rather
frightened, proceeded on our way. The earliness of the hour was probably
our salvation, as we started two hours before the usual time, and thus
gained a march upon the gentlemen of the road.

We were not sorry, however, when at our first halting-place, and whilst
we, were changing horses, we descried a company of lancers at full gallop,
with a very good-looking officer at their head, coming along the road;
though when first I heard the sound of horses' hoofs, clattering along,
and, by the faint light, discerned the horsemen enveloped as they were in a
cloud of dust, I felt sure that they were a party of robbers. The captain
made many apologies for the delay, and proceeded to inform us that the
alcaldes of Tepeyagualco, La Ventilla, and of some other villages, whose
names I forget, had for twenty days prepared a breakfast in expectation of
his Excellency's arrival:--whether twenty breakfasts, or the same one cold,
or _réchauffé_, we may never know.

The captain had a very handsome horse, which he caused to _caracolear_ by
the side of the diligence, and put at my disposal with a low bow, every
time I looked at it. He discoursed with C---n of robbers and wars, and of
the different sites which these gentry most affected, and told him how his
first wife had been shot by following him in some engagement, yet how his
second wife invariably followed him also.

Arrived at Tepeyagualco, after having passed over a succession of sterile
plains covered with scanty pasture, an alcalde advanced to meet the
diligence, and hospitably made C---n an offer of the before-mentioned
twenty days' entertainment, which he with many thanks declined. Who ate
that breakfast, is buried in the past. Whether the alcalde was glad or
sorry, did not appear. He vanished with a profusion of bows, and was
followed by a large, good-looking Indian woman, who stood behind him while
he made his discourse. Perhaps they eat together the long-prepared feast;
which was at least one of the many tributes paid to the arrival of the
first messenger of peace from the mother-country.

At La Ventilla, however, we descended with a good appetite, and found
several authorities waiting to give C---n a welcome. Here they gave us
delicious chirimoyas, a natural custard, which we liked even upon a first
trial, also granaditas, bananas, sapotes, etc. Here also I first tasted
_pulque;_ and on a first impression it appears to me, that as nectar was
the drink in Olympus, we may fairly conjecture that Pluto cultivated the
maguey in his dominions. The taste and smell combined took me so completely
by surprise, that I am afraid my look of horror must have given mortal
offence to the worthy alcalde who considers it the most delicious beverage
in the world; and in fact, it is said, that when one gets over the first
shock, it is very agreeable. The difficulty must consist in getting over
it.

After a tolerable breakfast, hunger making chile and garlic supportable, we
continued our route; and were informed that the robbers, having grown very
daring, and the next stage being very dangerous, our escort was to be
doubled. Since we left Perote, the country had gradually become more
dreary, and we had again got into the "_mal pais_," where nothing is to be
seen but a few fir-trees and pines, dark and stunted, black masses of lava,
and an occasional white cross to mark either where a murder has been
committed, or where a celebrated robber has been buried. Of each, Don
Miguel gave us a succinct account. Some lines of Childe Harold suit this
scene as if written for it:

  "And here and there, as up the crags you spring,
     Mark many rude-carved crosses near the path:
  Yet deem not these devotion's offering--
     These are memorials frail of murderous wrath;
  For, wheresoe'er the shrieking victim hath
     Pour'd forth his blood beneath the assassin's knife,
  Some hand erects a cross of mouldering lath;
     And grove and glen with thousand such are rife,
  Throughout this purple land, where law secures not life."

The whole scene was wild and grand, yet dreary and monotonous, presenting
the greatest contrast possible to our first day's journey. The only signs
of life to be met with were the long strings of arrieros with their droves
of mules, and an occasional Indian hut, with a few miserable half-naked
women and children.

At one small, wild-looking inn, where, very cold and miserable, we stopped,
some hot wine was brought us, which was very acceptable. The tavern-keeper,
for it was no more than a spirit-shop, if not a robber, had all the
appearance of one; wild, melancholy, and with a most sinister expression of
countenance. Salvator never drew a more bandit-looking figure, as he stood
there with his blanket and slouched hat, and a knife in his belt, tall and
thin and muscular, with his sallow visage and his sad, fierce eyes.
However, he showed us the marks on his door, where a band of twenty robbers
had broken in one night, and robbed some travellers, who were sleeping
there, of a large sum of money.

C---n asked him how the robbers treated the women when they fell into their
power. "_Las saludan_," said he, "and sometimes carry them off to the
mountains, but rarely, and chiefly when they are afraid of their giving
information against them."

At _Ojo de Agua_, where we changed horses, we saw the accommodations which
those who travel in private coach or litera must submit to, unless they
bring their own beds along with them, and a stock of provisions besides a
common room like a barn, where all must herd together; and neither chair,
nor table, nor food to be had. It was a solitary-looking house, standing
lonely on the plain, with a few straggling sheep nibbling the brown grass
in the vicinity. A fine spring of water from which it takes its name, and
Orizaya, which seems to have travelled forward, and stands in bold outline
against the sapphire sky, were all that we saw there worthy notice.

We changed horses at Nopaluca, Acagete and Amosoque, all small villages,
with little more than the POSADA, and a few poor houses, and all very
dirty. The country, however, improves in cultivation and fertility, though
the chief trees are the sombre pines. Still accompanied by our two escorts,
which had a very grandiloquent effect, we entered, by four o'clock, Puebla
de los Angeles, the second city to Mexico (after Guadalajara) in the
republic, where we found very fine apartments prepared for us in the inn,
and where, after a short rest and a fresh toilet, we went out to see what
we could of the city before it grew dusk, before it actually became what it
now is, CHRISTMAS-EVE!

It certainly does require some time for the eye to become accustomed to the
style of building adopted in the Spanish colonies. There is something at
first sight exceedingly desolate-looking in these great wooden doors, like
those of immense barns, the great iron-barred windows, the ill-paved
courtyards, even the flat roofs; and then the streets, where, though this
is a fête-day, we see nothing but groups of peasants or of beggars--the
whole gives the idea of a total absence of comfort. Yet the streets of
Puebla are clean and regular, the houses large, the cathedral magnificent,
and the plaza spacious and handsome.

The cathedral was shut, and is not to be opened till midnight mass, which I
regret the less as we must probably return here some day.

The dress of the Poblana peasants is pretty, especially on fête-days. A
white muslin chemise, trimmed with lace round the skirt, neck, and sleeves,
which are plaited neatly; a petticoat shorter than the chemise, and divided
into two colours, the lower part made generally of a scarlet and black
stuff, a manufacture of the country, and the upper part of yellow satin,
with a satin vest of some bright colour, and covered with gold or silver,
open in front, and turned back. This vest may be worn or omitted, as suits
the taste of the wearer. It is without sleeves, but has straps; the hair
plaited in two behind, and the plaits turned up and fastened together by a
diamond ring; long earrings, and all sorts of chains and medals and
tinkling things worn round the neck. A long, broad, coloured sash,
something like an officer's belt, tied behind after going twice or thrice
round the waist, into which is stuck a silver cigar-case. A small coloured
handkerchief like a broad ribbon, crossing over the neck, is fastened in
front with a brooch, the ends trimmed with silver, and going through the
sash. Over all is thrown a reboso, not over the head, but thrown on like a
scarf; and they wear silk stockings, or more commonly no stockings, and
white satin shoes trimmed with silver.

This is on holidays. On common occasions, the dress is the same, but the
materials are more common, at least the vest with silver is never worn; but
the chemise is still trimmed with lace, and the shoes are satin.

Christmas-eve in Puebla! The room is filled with visitors, who have come to
congratulate C---n on his arrival, and a wonderfully handsome room it is,
to do it justice, with chairs and sofas of scarlet stuff. But I was anxious
to see _something_. As we are to leave Puebla very early, I am prohibited
from going to the midnight mass. I proposed the theatre, where there is to
be a _Nacimiento_, a representation in figures of various events connected
with the Birth of Christ; such as the Annunciation, the Holy Family, the
Arrival of the Wise Men of the East, etc. But after some deliberation, it
was agreed that this would not do; so finding that there is nothing to be
done, and tired of polite conversation, I betake myself to bed.

Christmas-day.

It is now about three o'clock, but I was awakened an hour ago by the sounds
of the hymns which ushered in Christmas morning; and looking from the
window, saw, by the faint light, bands of girls dressed in white, singing
in chorus through the streets.

We have just taken chocolate, and, amidst a profusion of bows and
civilities from the landlord, are preparing to set off for Mexico.




LETTER THE SIXTH


Departure from Puebla--Chirimoyas--Rio Frio--Indian Game--Black
Forest--Valley of Mexico--Recollections of Tenochtitlan--Mexican
Officer--Reception--Scenery--Variety of Dresses--Cheers--Storm of
Rain--Entry to Mexico--Buenavista--House by Daylight--Sights from the
Windows--Visits--Mexican Etiquette--Countess C----a--Flowers in
December--Serenade--Patriotic Hymn.


Mexico, 26th December.


We left Puebla between four and five in the morning, as we purposely made
some delay, not wishing to reach Mexico too early; and in so doing, acted
contrary to the advice of Don Miguel, who was generally right in these
matters. The day was very fine when we set off, though rain was predicted.
Some of the gentlemen had gone to the theatre the night before, to see the
_Nacimiento_, and the audience had been composed entirely of _Gentuza_, the
common people, who were drinking brandy and smoking; so it was fortunate
that we had not shown our faces there.

The country was now flat but fertile, and had on the whole more of a
European look than any we had yet passed through.

At Rio Prieto, a small village, where we changed horses, I found that I had
been sitting very comfortably with my feet in a basket of chirimoyas, and
that my bordequins, white gown, and cloak, had been all drenched with the
milky juice, and then made black by the floor of the diligence.

With no small difficulty a trunk was brought down, and another dress
procured, to the great amusement of the Indian women, who begged to know if
my gown was the _last fashion_, and said it was "_muy guapa,_" very pretty.
Here we found good hot coffee, and it being Christmas-day, every one was
cleaned and dressed for mass.

At Rio Frio, which is about thirteen leagues from Mexico, and where there
is a pretty good posada in a valley surrounded by woods, we stopped to
dine. The inn was kept by a Bordelaise and her husband, who wish themselves
in Bordeaux twenty times a day. In front of the house some Indians were
playing at a curious and very ancient game--a sort of swing, resembling
"_El Juego de los Voladores,_" "The game of the flyers," much in vogue
amongst the ancient Mexicans. Our French hostess gave us a good dinner,
especially excellent potatoes, and jelly of various sorts, regaling us with
plenty of stories of robbers and robberies and horrid murders all the
while. On leaving Rio Frio, the road became more hilly and covered with
woods, and we shortly entered the tract known by the name of the Black
Forest, a great haunt for banditti, and a beautiful specimen of forest
scenery, a succession of lofty oaks, pines, and cedars, with wild flowers
lighting up their gloomy green. But I confess that the impatience which I
felt to see Mexico, the idea that in a few hours we should actually be
there, prevented me from enjoying the beauty of the scenery, and made the
road appear interminable.

But at length we arrived at the heights looking down upon the great valley,
celebrated in all parts of the world, with its framework of everlasting
mountains, its snow-crowned volcanoes, great lakes, and fertile plains,
all surrounding the favoured city of Montezuma, the proudest boast of his
conqueror, once of Spain's many diadems the brightest. But the day had
overcast, nor is this the most favourable road for entering Mexico. The
innumerable spires of the distant city were faintly seen. The volcanoes
were enveloped in clouds, all but their snowy summits, which seemed like
marble domes towering into the sky. But as we strained our eyes to look
into the valley, it all appeared to me rather like a vision of the Past
than the actual breathing Present. The curtain of Time seemed to roll back,
and to discover to us the great panorama that burst upon the eye of Cortes
when he first looked down upon the table-land; the king-loving, God-fearing
conqueror, his loyalty and religion so blended after the fashion of ancient
Spain, that it were hard to say which sentiment exercised over him the
greater sway. The city of Tenochtitlan, standing in the midst of the five
great lakes, upon verdant and flower-covered islands, a western Venice,
with thousands of boats gliding swiftly along its streets, long lines of
low houses, diversified by the multitudes of pyramidal temples, the
Teocalli, or houses of God--canoes covering the mirrored lakes--the lofty
trees, the flowers, and the profusion of water now wanting to the
landscape--the whole fertile valley enclosed by its eternal hills and
snow-crowned volcanoes--what scenes of wonder and of beauty to burst upon
the eyes of these wayfaring men!

Then the beautiful gardens surrounding the city, the profusion of flowers,
and fruit, and birds--the mild bronze-coloured Emperor himself advancing in
the midst of his Indian nobility, with rich dress and unshod feet, to
receive his unbidden and unwelcome guest--the slaves and the gold and the
rich plumes, all to be laid at the feet of "His most sacred Majesty"--what
pictures are called up by the recollection of the simple narrative of
Cortes, and how forcibly they return to the mind now, when, after a lapse
of three centuries, we behold for the first time the city of palaces raised
upon the ruins of the Indian capital. It seemed scarcely possible that we
were indeed so near the conclusion of our journey, and in the midst of so
different a scene, only two months minus two days since leaving New York
and stepping aboard the Norma. How much land and sea we had passed over
since then! How much we had seen! How many different climates, even in the
space of the last four days!

But my thoughts which had wandered three centuries into the past, were soon
recalled to the present by the arrival of an officer in full uniform at the
head of his troop, who came out by order of the government to welcome the
bearer of the olive-branch from ancient Spain, and had been on horseback
since the day before, expecting our arrival. As it had begun to rain, the
officer, Colonel Miguel Andrade, accepted our offer of taking shelter in
the diligence. We had now a great troop galloping along with us, and had
not gone far before we perceived that in spite of the rain, and that it
already began to grow dusk, there were innumerable carriages and horsemen
forming an immense crowd, all coming out to welcome us. Shortly after the
diligence was stopped, and we were requested to get into a very splendid
carriage, all crimson and gold, with the arms of the republic, the eagle
and nopal, embroidered in gold on the roof inside, and drawn by four
handsome white horses. In the midst of this immense procession of troops,
carriages, and horsemen, we made our entry into the city of Montezuma.

The scenery on this side of Mexico is arid and flat, and where the waters
of the Lagunas, covered with their gay canoes, once surrounded the city,
forming canals through its streets, we now see melancholy marshy lands,
little enlivened by great flights of wild duck and waterfowl. But the
bleakness of the natural scenery was concealed by the gay appearance of the
procession--the scarlet and gold uniforms, the bright-coloured sarapes, the
dresses of the gentlemen (most, I believe, Spaniards), with their handsome
horses, high Mexican saddles, gold-embroidered _anqueras_ generally of
black fur, their Mexican hats ornamented with gold, richly-furred jackets,
pantaloons with hanging silver buttons, stamped-leather boots, silver
stirrups, and graceful mangas with black or coloured velvet capes.

At the gates of Mexico the troops halted, and three enthusiastic cheers
were given as the carriage entered. It was now nearly dusk, and the rain
was falling in torrents, yet we met more carriages full of ladies and
gentlemen, which joined the others. We found that a house, in the suburbs
at Buenavista, had been taken for us _provisoirement_ by the kindness of
the Spaniards, especially of a rich merchant who accompanied us in the
carriage, Don M---l M---z del C---o; consequently we passed all through
Mexico before reaching our destination, always in the midst of the crowd,
on account of which and of the ill-paved streets we went very slowly.
Through the rain and the darkness we got an occasional faint lamp-light
glimpse of high buildings, churches, and convents. Arrived at length in the
midst of torrents of rain, C---n got out of the carriage and returned
thanks for his reception, giving some ounces to the sergeant for the
soldiers. We then entered the house, accompanied by the Mexican officer,
and by a large party of Spaniards.

We found the house very good, especially considering that it had been
furnished for us in eight-and-forty hours, and we also found an excellent
supper smoking on the table; after doing justice to which we took leave of
our friends, and, very tired, prepared for sleep.

The servants and luggage arrived late. They had been left with the
diligence, under the guardianship of Don Miguel, and it appeared that the
robbers had mingled with the crowd, and followed in hopes of plunder;
insomuch that he had been obliged to procure two carriages, one for the
servants, while into another he put the luggage, mounting in front himself
to look out. Tired enough the poor man was, and drenched with rain; and we
found that much of this confusion and difficulty, which was chiefly caused
by the storm and darkness, would have been avoided had we left Puebla some
hours sooner.

However, "All's well that ends well." I thought of Christmas in "Merrie
England," and of our family gatherings in the olden time, and as if one had
not travelled enough in the body, began travelling in the mind, away to far
different, and distant, and long gone-by scenes, fell asleep at length with
my thoughts in Scotland, and wakened in Mexico!

By daylight we find our house very pretty, with a large garden adjoining,
full of flowers, and rosebushes in the courtyard, but being all on the
ground-floor, it is somewhat damp, and the weather, though beautiful, is so
cool in the morning, that carpets, and I sometimes think even a _soupcon_
of fire, would not be amiss. The former we shall soon procure, but there
are neither chimneys nor grates, and I have no doubt a fire would be
disagreeable for more than an hour or so in the morning. The house stands
alone, with a large court before it, and opposite to it passes the great
stone aqueduct, a magnificent work of the Spaniards, though not more so,
probably, than those which supplied the ancient Tenochtitlan with water.
Behind it we see nothing but several old houses, with trees, so that we
seem almost in the country. To the right is one large building, with garden
and olive-ground, where the English legation formerly lived, a palace in
size, since occupied by Santa Anna, and which now belongs to Señor Perez
Galvez; a house which we shall be glad to have, if the proprietor will
consent to let it.

But what most attracts our attention are the curious and picturesque groups
of figures which we see from the windows--men bronze-colour, with nothing
but a piece of blanket thrown round them, carrying lightly on their heads
earthen basins, precisely the colour of their own skin, so that they look
altogether like figures of terra cotta: these basins filled with sweetmeats
or white pyramids of grease (_mantequilla_); women with rebosos, short
petticoats of two colours, generally all in rags, yet with a lace border
appearing on their under garment: no stockings, and dirty white satin
shoes, rather shorter than their small brown feet; gentlemen on horseback
with their Mexican saddles and sarapes; lounging _léperos_, moving bundles
of rags, coming to the windows and begging with a most piteous but false
sounding whine, or lying under the arches and lazily inhaling the air and
the sunshine, or sitting at the door for hours basking in the sun or under
the shadow of the wall: Indian women, with their tight petticoat of dark
stuff and tangled hair, plaited with red ribbon, laying down their baskets
to rest, and meanwhile deliberately _examining_ the hair of their copper-
coloured offspring. We have enough to engage our attention for the present.

Several visitors came early--gentlemen, both Spaniards and Mexicans. Señor
A---z, decidedly the ugliest man I ever beheld, with a hump on his back,
and a smile of most portentous hideosity, yet celebrated for his _bonnes
fortunes_; Señor de G---a, Ex-Minister of the Treasury, extremely witty and
agreeable, and with some celebrity as a dramatic writer; Count C---a,
formerly attached to the bedchamber in Spain, married to a pretty
Andalusian, and entirely Mexicanized, his heart where his interests are. He
is very gentlemanlike and distinguished-looking, with good manners, and
extremely eloquent in conversation. I hear him called "_inconsecuente_,"
and capricious, but he has welcomed C---n, who knew him intimately in
Madrid, with all the warmth of ancient friendship.

We are told that a great serenade has been for some time in contemplation,
to be given to C---n, the words, music, and performance by the young
Spaniards here.

27th.--A day or two must elapse before I can satisfy my curiosity by going
out, while the necessary arrangements are making concerning carriage and
horses, or mules, servants, etc.; our vehicles from the United States not
having yet arrived,--nor is it difficult to foresee, even from once passing
through the streets, that only the more solid-built English carriages will
stand the wear and tear of a Mexican life, and that the comparatively
flimsy coaches which roll over the well-paved streets of New York, will not
endure for any length of time.

Meanwhile we have constant visits, but chiefly from gentlemen and from
Spaniards, for there is one piece of etiquette, entirely Mexican, nor can I
imagine from whence derived, by which it is ordained that all new arrivals,
whatever be their rank, foreign Ministers not excepted, must in solemn
print give notice to every family of any consideration in the capital, that
they have arrived, and offer themselves and their house to their
"_disposición_;" failing in which etiquette, the newly-arrived family will
remain unnoticed and unknown. Our cards to this effect are consequently
being printed under the auspices of Count C---a. I have, however, received
the visits of some ladies who have kindly waived this ceremony in my
favour; and amongst others, from the Dowager and the young Countess of
C---a; the eldest a very distinguished woman, of great natural talent, one
of the true ladies of the old school, of whom not many specimens now remain
in Mexico; the other extremely pretty, lively, and amiable, a true
Andalusian both in beauty and wit. The old Countess was dressed in black
velvet, black blonde mantilla, diamond earrings and brooch--her daughter-
in-law also in black, with a mantilla, and she had a pretty little daughter
with her, whose eyes will certainly produce a kindling effect on the next
generation.

They were both extremely kind and cordial; if there are many such persons
in Mexico, we shall have no reason to complain. I hope I am not seeing the
cream before the milk!

Some Mexican visits appear to me to surpass in duration all that one can
imagine of a visit, rarely lasting less than one hour, and sometimes
extending over a greater part of the day. And gentlemen, at least, arrive
at no particular time. If you are going to breakfast, they go also--if to
dinner, the same--if you are asleep, they wait till you awaken--if out,
they call again. An indifferent sort of man, whose name I did not even
hear, arrived yesterday, a little after breakfast, sat still, and walked in
to a late dinner with us! These should not be called visits, but
visitations,--though I trust they do not often occur to that extent. An
open house and an open table for your friends, which includes every passing
acquaintance; these are merely Spanish habits of hospitality transplanted.

Had a visit from Señor ----- and his wife, very civil and obliging people,
always agreeing with each other, and with you, and with all the world,
almost to the extent of Polonius to Hamlet. Our conversation reminded me of
that the whole time they were here.

I have just brought from the garden a lapful of pink roses,
clove-carnations, and sweet-peas. Rosetta could not sing here--

  "For June and December will never agree."

The weather is lovely, the air fresh and clear, the sky one vast expanse of
bright blue, without a single cloud. Early this morning it was cool, but
now, by ten o'clock, the air is as soft and balmy as on a summer-day with
us.

28th.--Day of the memorable serenade. After dinner some ladies paid me a
visit, amongst others the wife and daughter of the Spanish consul, Señor
M---y, who were accompanied by the sister of Count A---a. They and a few
gentlemen arrived about six o'clock, and it was said that the serenade
would not begin till twelve. It may be supposed that our conversation,
however agreeable it might be, would scarcely hold out that time. In fact,
by nine o'clock, we were all nearly overcome by sleep, and by ten I believe
we were already in a refreshing slumber, when we were awakened by the sound
of crowds assembling before the door, and of carriages arriving and
stopping. Not knowing who the occupants might be, we could not invite them
in, which seemed very inhospitable, as the night, though fine, was cold and
chilly. About eleven the Count and Countess C---a arrived, and the Señora
de G----, a remarkably handsome woman, a Spaniard, looking nearly as young
as her daughters; also the pretty daughters of the proprietress of this
house, who was a beauty, and is married to her third husband; and a lively
little talkative person, the Señora de L---n, all Spanish; and who, some on
that account, and others from their husbands having been former friends of
C---n's have not waited for the ceremony of receiving cards. Gradually,
however, several Mexican ladies, whom we had sent out to invite, came in.
Others remained in their carriages, excusing themselves on the plea of
their not being _en toilette_. We had men _à discrétion_, and the rooms
were crowded.

About midnight arrived a troop of Mexican soldiers, carrying torches, and a
multitude of musicians, both amateur and professional, chiefly the former,
and men carrying music-stands, violins, violoncellos, French horns, etc.,
together with an immense crowd, mingled with numbers of léperos, so that
the great space in front of the house as far as the aqueduct, and all
beyond and along the street as far as we could see, was covered with people
and carriages. We threw open the windows, which are on a level with the
ground, with large balconies and wide iron gratings, and the scene by the
torch-light was very curious. The Mexican troops holding lights for the
musicians, and they of various countries, Spanish, German, and Mexican; the
léperos, with their ragged blankets and wild eyes, that gleamed in the
light of the torches; the ladies within, and the crowd without, all formed
a very amusing _spectacle_.

At length the musicians struck up in full chorus, accompanied by the whole
orchestra. The voices were very fine, and the instrumental music so good, I
could hardly believe that almost all were amateur performers.

A hymn, which had been composed for the occasion, and of which we had
received an elegantly-bound copy in the morning, was particularly
effective. The music was composed by Señor Retes, and the words by Señor
Covo, both Spaniards. Various overtures from the last operas were played,
and at the end of what seemed to be the first act, in the midst of
deafening applause from the crowd, C---n made me return thanks from the
window in beautiful impromptu Spanish! Then came shouts of "Viva la
Espana!" "Viva Ysabel Segunda!" "Viva el Ministro de Espana!" Great and
continued cheering. Then C---n gave in return, "Viva la Republica
Mexicana!" "Viva Bustamente!" and the shouting was tremendous. At last an
Andalusian in the crowd shouted out, "Viva todo el Mundo!" (Long live
everybody), which piece of wit was followed by general laughter.

After hot punch and cigars had been handed about out of doors, a necessary
refreshment in this cold night, the music recommenced, and the whole ended
with the national hymn of Spain, with appropriate words. A young Spanish
girl, whose voice is celebrated here, was then entreated by those within,
and beseeched by those without, to sing alone the hymn composed in honour
of C---n, which she naturally felt some hesitation in doing before such an
immense audience. However, she consented at last, and in a voice like a
clarion, accompanied by the orchestra, sung each verse alone, joined in the
chorus by the whole crowd. I give you a copy:

Himno Patriotico que varios Espanoles, Residentes en Mexico, dedican al
Esmo. Sr. Don A---- C---- de la B----, Ministro Plenipotenciario de S. M.
C. en la República, con Motivo de su Llegada a dicha Capital.

Música del Sr. J. N. DE RETES; Palabras del Sr. DN. JUAN COVO.

CORO.

  Triunfamos, amigos,
  Triunfamos enfin,
  Y libre respir
  La Patria del Cid.

  La augusta _Cristina_,
  De Espana embeleso,
  El mas tierno beso
  Imprime á _Ysabel_:
  Y "Reina," le dice,
  "No ya sobre esclavos;
  Sobre Iberos bravos,
  Sobre un pueblo fiel."

    Triunfamos, amigos, etc.

  Donde está de Carlos
  La perfida hueste?
  Un rayo celeste
  Polvo la tornó.
  Rayo que al malvado
  Hundio en el abismo--
  Rayo que al Carlismo
  _Libertad_ lanzó.

    Triunfamos, amigos, etc.

  Al bravo Caudillo,
  Al bueno, al valiente,
  Ciñamos la frente
  De mirto y laurel.
  Tu diestra animosa,
  Heroico guerrero,
  Tu _diestra, Espartero_,
  Sojuzgó al infiel.

    Triunfamos, amigos, etc.

  Veranse acatadas
  Nuestras santas leyes;
  Temblarán los Reyes
  De España al poder.
  Y el cetro de oprobrio,
  Si empuna un tirano,
  De su infame mano
  Le harémos caer.

    Triunfamos, amigos, etc.

  Salud á _Ysabela_,
  Salud á _Cristina_,
  Quel el cielo destina
  La patria á salvar.
  Y el libre corone
  La candida frente
  De aquella inocente
  Que juró amparar.
    Triunfamos, amigos, etc.

  Y tu, mensagero
  De paz y ventura,
  Oye la voz pura
  De nuestra lealtad.
  Oye los acentos
  Que al cielo elevamos,
  Oye cual gritamos,
  _Patria! Libertad!_

    Triunfamos, amigos, etc.

  Tu el simbolo digno
  Serás, C---n,
  De grata reunion,
  De eterna amistad,
  Que ya, en ambos mundos,
  La insana discordía
  Trocóse en concordía
  Y fraternidad.

    Triunfamos, amigos, etc.


TRANSLATION.

Patriotic Hymn which various Spaniards, resident in Mexico, dedicate to his
Excellency Señor Don A---- C---- de la B----, Minister Plenipotentiary and
Envoy Extraordinary from H. C. M. to the Republic, to celebrate his arrival
in this Capital.

The music by Señor Don J. N. De Retes; the words by Señor Don Juan Covo.

CHORUS.

    Let us triumph, my friends,
    Let us triumph at length,
    And let the country of the Cid
    Breathe freely again.

  The august Christina,
  The ornament of Spain,
  Imprinted the most tender kiss
  On the cheek of Isabel.
  And "Reign," she said to her,
  "Not now over slaves,
  But over _brave Iberians_,
  Over a faithful people!"

    Let us triumph, my friends, etc.

  Where is the perfidious
  Army of Carlos?
  A celestial thunderbolt
  Has turned it to dust--
  A thunderbolt which plunged
  The wicked one into the abyss--
  A thunderbolt which _Liberty_
  Launched against Carlism.

    Let us triumph, my friends, etc.

  Of the brave chief,
  Of the good, the valiant,
  Let us gird the forehead
  With myrtle and laurel.
  Thy brave right hand,
  Heroic warrior,
  Thy right hand, _Espartero_,
  Subdued the disloyal one.

    Let us triumph, my friends, etc.

  Our holy laws
  Will be acknowledged,
  And kings will tremble
  At the power of Spain;
  And should a tyrant grasp
  The sceptre of opprobrium,
  From his infamous hand
  We shall cause it to fall.

    Let us triumph, my friends, etc.

  Health to _Isabella_,
  Health to _Christina_,
  Whom Heaven has destined
  To save the country;
  And may he freely crown
  The white forehead
  Of the innocent princess
  He swore to protect.

    Let us triumph, my friends, etc.

  And thou, messenger
  Of peace and joy,
  Hear the pure voice
  Of our loyalty;
  Hear the accents
  Which we raise to Heaven;
  Hear what we cry,
  _Country_! _Liberty_!

    Let us triumph, my friends, etc.

  Thou, C---n, shalt be
  The worthy symbol
  Of grateful reunion,
  Of eternal friendship,
  Which already has changed,
  In both worlds,
  Insane discord
  Into concord and fraternity.

    Let us triumph, my friends, etc.


The air was rent with vivas! and bravos! as the Señorita de F----
concluded. Her voice was beautiful, and after the first moment of
embarrassment, she sang with much spirit and enthusiasm. This was the
finale of the serenade, and then the serenaders were invited in, and were
in such numbers that the room would scarcely hold them all. More cigars,
more punch, more giving of thanks. About three o'clock the crowd began to
disperse, and at length, after those Spanish leave-takings, which are
really no joke, had ended, Captain E----, C---n, and I, all three
excessively cold and shivering, having passed the night at the open
windows, consoled ourselves with hot chocolate and punch, and went to dream
of sweet-sounding harmonies. Altogether, it was a scene which I would not
have missed for a great deal.

The enthusiasm caused by the arrival of the first Minister from Spain seems
gradually to increase. The actors are to give him a "_función
extraordinaria_," in the theatre--the matadors a bull-fight extraordinary,
with fireworks. ... But in all this you must not suppose there is any
personal compliment. It is merely intended as a mark of good will towards
the first representative of the Spanish monarchy who brings from the
mother-country the formal acknowledgment of Mexican independence.




LETTER THE SEVENTH


Debut in Mexico--Cathedral--Temple of the Aztecs--Congregation--Stone of
Sacrifices--Palace--Importunate Léperos--Visit to the President--Countess
C---a--Street-cries--Tortilleras--_Sartor Resartus_.


I made my _début_ in Mexico by going to mass in the cathedral. We drove
through the Alameda, near which we live, and admired its noble trees,
flowers, and fountains, all sparkling in the sun. We met but few carriages
there, an occasional gentleman on horseback, and a few solitary-looking
people resting on the stone benches, also plenty of beggars, and the
_forçats_ in chains, watering the avenues. We passed through the Calle San
Francisco, the handsomest street in Mexico, both as to shops and houses
(containing, amongst others, the richly-carved but now half-ruined palace
of Yturbide), and which terminates in the great square where stand the
cathedral and the palace. The streets were crowded, it being a holiday; and
the purity of the atmosphere, with the sun pouring down upon the
bright-coloured groups, and these groups so picturesque, whether of
soldiers or monks, peasants or veiled ladies; the very irregularity of the
buildings, the number of fine churches and old convents, and everything on
so grand a scale, even though touched by the finger of time, or crushed by
the iron heel of revolution, that the attention is constantly kept alive,
and the interest excited.

The carriage drew up in front of the cathedral, built upon the site of part
of the ruins of the great temple of the Aztecs; of that pyramidal temple,
constructed by _Ahuitzotli_, the sanctuary so celebrated by the Spaniards,
and which comprehended with all its different edifices and sanctuaries, the
ground on which the cathedral now stands, together with part of the plaza
and streets adjoining.

We are told, that within its enclosure were five hundred dwellings, that
its hall was built of stone and lime, and ornamented with stone serpents.
We hear of its four great gates, fronting the four cardinal points of its
stone-paved court, great stone stairs, and sanctuaries dedicated to the
gods of war; of the square destined for religious dances, and the colleges
for the priests, and seminaries for the priestesses; of the horrible
temple, whose door was an enormous serpent's mouth; of the temple of
mirrors and that of shells; of the house set apart for the emperor's
prayers; of the consecrated fountains, the birds kept for sacrifice, the
gardens for the holy flowers, and of the terrible towers composed of the
skulls of the victims--strange mixture of the beautiful and the horrible!
We are told that five thousand priests chanted night and day in the Great
Temple, to the honour and in the service of the monstrous idols, who were
anointed thrice a day with the most precious perfumes; and that of these
priests the most austere were clothed in black, their long hair dyed with
ink, and their bodies anointed with the ashes of burnt scorpions and
spiders; their chiefs were the sons of kings.

It is remarkable, by the way, that their god of war, _Mejitli_, was said to
have been born of a woman, _a Holy Virgin_, who was in the service of the
temple; and that when the priests, having knowledge of her disgrace, would
have stoned her, a voice was heard, saying, "Fear not, mother, for I shall
save thy honour and my glory," upon which the god was born, with a shield
in his left hand, an arrow in his right, a plume of green feathers on his
head, his face painted blue, and his left leg adorned with feathers! Thus
was his gigantic statue represented.

There were gods of the Water, of the Earth, of Night, Fire, and Hell;
goddesses of Flowers and of Corn: there were oblations offered of bread and
flowers and jewels, but we are assured that from twenty to fifty thousand
human victims were sacrificed annually in Mexico alone! That these accounts
are exaggerated, even though a bishop is among the narrators, we can
scarcely doubt; but if the tenth part be truth, let the memory of Cortes be
sacred, who, with the cross, stopped the shedding of innocent blood,
founded the cathedral on the ruins of the temple which had so often
resounded with human groans, and in the place of these blood-smeared idols
enshrined the mild form of the Virgin.

Meanwhile we entered the Christian edifice, which covers an immense space
of ground, is of the Gothic form, with two lofty ornamented towers, and is
still immensely rich in gold, silver, and jewels. A balustrade running
through it, which was brought from China, is said to be very valuable, but
seems to me more curious than beautiful. It is a composition of brass and
silver. Not a soul was in the sacred precincts this morning but miserable
_léperos_, in rags and blankets, mingled with women in ragged
_rebosos_;--at least a sprinkling of ladies with mantillas was so very
slight, that I do not think there were half a dozen in all. The floor is so
dirty that one kneels with a feeling of horror, and an inward determination
to effect as speedy a change of garments afterwards as possible. Besides,
many of my Indian neighbours were engaged in an occupation which I must
leave to your imagination; in fact, relieving their heads from the pressure
of the colonial system, or rather, eradicating and slaughtering the
colonists, who swarm there like the emigrant Irish in the United States. I
was not sorry to find myself once more in the pure air after mass; and have
since been told that, except on peculiar ocasions, and at certain hours,
few ladies perform their devotions in the cathedral. I shall learn all
these particulars in time.

We saw, as we passed out, the Aztec Calendar,--a round stone covered with
hieroglyphics, which is still preserved and fastened on the outside of the
cathedral. We afterwards saw the Stone of Sacrifices, now in the courtyard
of the university, with a hollow in the middle, in which the victim was
laid, while six priests, dressed in red, their heads adorned with plumes of
green feathers (they must have looked like macaws), with gold and green
earrings, and blue stones in their upper lips, held him down while the
chief priest cut open his breast, threw his heart at the feet of the idol,
and afterwards put it into his mouth with a golden spoon. They then cut off
his head, to make use of it in building the tower of skulls, eat some parts
of him, and either burnt the rest, or threw it to the wild beasts who were
maintained in the palace.

These interesting particulars occurred to us as we looked at the stone, and
we were not sorry to think that it is now more ornamental than useful.

After leaving the cathedral, C---n fastened on his orders in the carriage,
as this day was appointed for his presentation to the President, and we
drove to the place, where I left him, and returned home. He was received
with great etiquette, a band of music playing in the court, the President
in full uniform, surrounded by all his Ministers and aides-de-camp,
standing before a throne, under a velvet dais, his feet upon a tabouret,
the whole being probably the same as was used by the viceroys. _Viva la
Republica!_ C---n made a discourse to him, and he made one in return, both
of which may be found by those who are curious in these matters, in the
_Díario_ of the 31st December....

Whilst I am writing a horrible lépero, with great leering eyes, is looking
at me through the windows, and performing the most extraordinary series of
groans, displaying at the same time a hand with two long fingers, probably
the other three tied in. "Señorita! Señorita! For the love of the most Holy
Virgin! For the sake of the most pure blood of Christ! By the miraculous
Conception!--" The wretch! I dare not look up, but I feel that his eyes are
fixed upon a gold watch and seals lying on the table. That is the worst of
a house on the ground floor.... There come more of them! A paralytic woman
mounted on the back of a man with a long beard. A sturdy-looking
individual, who looks as if, were it not for the iron bars, he would resort
to more effective measures, is holding up a _deformed foot,_ which I verily
believe is merely fastened back in some extraordinary way. What groans!
what rags! what a chorus of whining! This concourse is probably owing to
our having sent them some money yesterday. I try to take no notice, and
write on as if I were deaf. I must walk out of the room, without looking
behind me, and send the porter to disperse them. There are no bell-ropes in
these parts....

I come back again to write, hardly recovered from the start that I have
just got. I had hardly written the last words, when I heard a footstep near
me, and, looking up, lo! there was my friend with _the foot,_ standing
within a yard of me, his hand stretched out for alms! I was so frightened,
that for a moment I thought of giving him my watch, to get rid of him.
However, I glided past him with a few unintelligible words, and rushed to
call the servants; sending him some money by the first person who came. The
porter, who had not seen him pass, is now dispersing the crowd. What
vociferous exclamations! A---- has come in and drawn the curtains, and I
think they are going off.

Yesterday evening I was taken to visit the President. The palace is an
immense building, containing, besides the apartments of the President and
his Ministers, all the chief courts of justice. It occupies one side of the
square, but is no way remarkable in its architecture. At the end of every
flight of steps that we mounted we came upon lounging soldiers, in their
yellow cloaks, and women in rebosos, standing about. We passed through a
hall filled with soldiers, into the antechamber, where we were received by
several aides-de-camp, who conducted us into a very well-furnished room,
where we sat a few minutes, till an officer came to lead us into the
reception-room, which is a handsome apartment, about a hundred feet long,
and fitted up with crimson and gold, also well lighted. General Bustamante,
now in plain clothes, gave us a very cordial reception.

He looks like a good man, with an honest, benevolent face, frank and simple
in his manners, and not at all like a hero. His conversation was not
brilliant, indeed I do not know apropos to what, I suppose to the climate,
but it chiefly turned on _medicine_. There cannot be a greater contrast,
both in appearance and reality, than between him and Santa Anna. There is
no lurking devil in his eye. All is frank, open, and unreserved. It is
impossible to look in his face without believing him to be an honest and
well-intentioned man. An unprincipled but clever writer has said of him,
that he has no great capacity or superior genius; but that, whether from
reflection or from slowness of comprehension, he is always extremely calm
in his determinations: that, before entering into any project, he inquires
and considers deeply as to whether it be just or not; but that once
convinced that it is or appears to be so, he sustains his ground with
firmness and constancy. He adds, that it suits him better to obey than to
command; for which reason he was always so devoted a servant of the
Spaniards and of Yturbide.

He is said to be a devoted friend, is honest to a proverb, and personally
brave, though occasionally deficient in moral energy. He is therefore an
estimable man, and one who will do his duty to the best of his ability,
though whether he has severity and energy sufficient for those evil days in
which it is his lot to govern, may be problematical.

Having made a sufficiently long visit to his Excellency, we went to return
that of the Countess C----, who has a magnificent house, with suites of
large rooms, of which the drawing-room is particularly handsome, of immense
size, the walls beautifully painted, the subjects religious, and where I
found one of Broadwood's finest grand pianos. But although there are
cabinets inlaid with gold, fine paintings, and hundreds of rich and curious
things, our European eyes are struck with numerous inconsistencies in
dress, servants, etc., in all of which there is a want of keeping very
remarkable. Yet this house, and the one adjoining, which also belongs to
the family, are palaces in vastness, and the Countess receives me more as
if I were her daughter, than a person with whom she has been acquainted but
a few days.

There are an extraordinary number of street-cries in Mexico, which begin at
dawn and continue till night, performed by hundreds of discordant voices,
impossible to understand at first; but Señor ----- has been giving me an
explanation of them, until I begin to have some distinct idea of their
meaning. At dawn you are awakened by the shrill and desponding cry of the
Carbonero, the coalmen, "Carbón, Señor?" which, as he pronounces it, sounds
like "Carbosiu?" Then the grease-man takes up the song, "Mantequilla! lard!
lard! at one real and a half." "Salt beef! good salt beef!" ("Cecina
buena!") interrupts the butcher in a hoarse voice. "Hay cebo-o-o-o-o-o?"
This is the prolonged and melancholy note of the woman who buys kitchen-
stuff, and stops before the door. Then passes by the _cambista,_ a sort of
Indian she-trader or exchanger, who sings out, "Tejocotes por venas de
chile?" a small fruit which she proposes exchanging for hot peppers. No
harm in that.

A kind of ambulating pedler drowns the shrill treble of the Indian cry. He
calls aloud upon the public to buy needles, pins, thimbles, shirt-buttons,
tape, cotton-balls, small mirrors, etc. He enters the house, and is quickly
surrounded by the women, young and old, offering him the tenth part of what
he asks, and which, after much haggling, he accepts. Behind him stands the
Indian with his tempting baskets of fruit, of which he calls out all the
names, till the cook or housekeeper can resist no longer, and putting her
head over the balustrade, calls him up with his bananas, and oranges, and
granaditas, etc.

A sharp note of interrogation is heard, indicating something that is hot,
and must be snapped up quickly before it cools. "Gorditas de horna
caliente?" "Little fat cakes from the oven, hot?" This is in a female key,
sharp and shrill. Follows the mat-seller. "Who wants mats from Puebla? mats
of five yards?" These are the most matinal cries.

At midday the beggars begin to be particularly importunate, and their
cries, and prayers, and long recitations, form a running accompaniment to
the other noises. Then above all rises the cry of "Honey-cakes!" "Cheese
and honey?" "Requesón and good honey?" (_Requesón_ being a sort of hard
curd, sold in cheeses.) Then come the dulce-men, the sellers of sweetmeats,
of meringues, which are very good, and of all sorts of candy. "Caramelos de
esperma! bocadillo de coco!" Then the lottery-men, the messengers of
Fortune, with their shouts of "The last ticket yet unsold, for half a
real!" a tempting announcement to the lazy beggar, who finds it easier to
gamble than to work, and who may have that sum hid about his rags.

Towards evening rises the cry of "Tortillas de cuajada?" "Curd-cakes?" or,
"Do you take nuts?" succeeded by the night-cry of "Chestnuts hot and
roasted!" and by the affectionate vendors of ducks; "Ducks, oh my soul, hot
ducks!" "Maize-cakes," etc., etc. As the night wears away, the voices die
off, to resume next morning in fresh vigour.

Tortillas, which are the common food of the people, and which are merely
maize cakes mixed with a little lime, and of the form and size of what we
call _scones_, I find rather good when very hot and fresh-baked, but
insipid by themselves. They have been in use all through this country since
the earliest ages of its history, without any change in the manner of
baking them, excepting that, for the noble Mexicans in former days, they
used to be kneaded with various medicinal plants, supposed to render them
more wholesome. They are considered particularly palatable with _chile_, to
endure which, in the quantities in which it is eaten here, it seems to me
necessary to have a throat lined with tin.

In unpacking some books to-day, I happened to take up "_Sartor Resartus_,"
which, by a curious coincidence, opened of itself, to my great delight, at
the following passage:

"The simplest costume," observes our Professor, "which I anywhere find
alluded to in history, is that used as regimental by Bolivar's cavalry, in
the late Columbian wars. A square blanket, twelve feet in diagonal, is
provided, (some were wont to cut off the corners, and make it circular;) in
the centre a slit is effected, eighteen inches long; through this the
mother-naked trooper introduces his head and neck; and so rides, shielded
from all weather, and in battle from many strokes (for he rolls it about
his left arm); and not only dressed, but harnessed and draperied." Here
then we find the true "Old Roman contempt of the superfluous," which seems
rather to meet the approbation of the illustrious Professor Teufelsdroch.




LETTER THE EIGHTH


Ball in Preparation--Agreeable Family--Fine
Voices--Theatre--Smoking--Castle of Chapultepec--Viceroy
Galvez--Montezuma's Cypress--Vice-Queen--Valley of Mexico--New Year's
Day--Opening of Congress--Visits from the Diplomatic Corps--Poblana
Dress--"Function extraordinaria"--Theatre--Visit to the Cathedral of
Guadalupe--Divine Painting--Bishop-Beggars--Mosquitoes' Eggs.


A great ball is to be given on the 8th of January, in the theatre, for the
benefit of the poor, which is to be under the patronage of the most
distinguished ladies of Mexico. After much deliberation amongst the
patronesses, it is decided that it shall be a _bal costumé_, and I have
some thoughts of going in the Poblana dress, which I before described to
you. As I am told that the Señora G---a wore it at a ball in London, when
her husband was Minister there, I have sent my maid to learn the
particulars from her.

We called to-day on a family nearly related to the C---as, and who have
been already excessively kind to us; Señor A---d, who is married to a
daughter of Don Francisco Tagle, a very distinguished Mexican. We found a
very large, very handsome house, the walls and roof painted in the old
Spanish style, which, when well executed, has an admirable effect. The lady
of the house, who is only nineteen, I took a fancy to at first sight. She
is not regularly beautiful, but has lovely dark eyes and eyebrows, with
fair complexion and fair hair, and an expression of the most perfect
goodness, with very amiable manners. I was surprised by hearing her sing
several very difficult Italian songs with great expression and wonderful
facility. She has a fine contralto, which has been cultivated; but some
Spanish ballads, and little songs of the country, she sang so delightfully,
and with so much good-nature and readiness, that had it not been a first
visit, I should have begged her to continue during half the morning. Fine
voices are said to be extremely common, as is natural in a country peopled
from Spain; and the opera, while it lasted, contributed greatly to the
cultivation of musical taste.

In the evening we went to the theatre. Such a theatre! Dark, dirty,
redolent of bad odours; the passages leading to the boxes so ill-lighted,
that one is afraid in the dark to pick one's steps through them. The acting
was nearly of a piece. The first actress, who is a favourite, and who
dresses well, and bears a high reputation for good conduct, is perfectly
wooden, and never frightened out of her proprieties in the most tragical
scenes. I am sure there is not a fold deranged in her dress when she goes
home. Besides, she has a most remarkable trick of pursing up her mouth in a
smile, and frowning at the same time with tears in her eyes, as if
personifying an April day, I should like to hear her sing

  "Said a smile to a tear."

There was no applause, and half the boxes were empty, whilst those who were
there seemed merely to occupy them from the effect of habit, and because
this is the only evening amusement. The prompter spoke so loud, that as

  "Coming events cast their shadows before."

every word was made known to the audience in confidence, before it came out
upon the stage officially. The whole pit smoked, the galleries smoked, the
boxes smoked, the prompter smoked, a long stream of smoke curling from his
box, giving something oracular and Delphic to his prophecies.

  "The force of _smoking_ could no further go."

The theatre is certainly unworthy of this fine city.

3ist.--We have spent the day in visiting the castle of Chapultepec, a short
league from Mexico, the most haunted by recollections of all the
traditionary sites of which Mexico can boast. Could these hoary cypresses
speak, what tales might they not disclose, standing there with their long
gray beards, and outstretched venerable arms, century after century:
al ready old when Montezuma was a boy, and still vigorous in the days of
Bustamante! There has the last of the Aztec emperors wandered with his
dark-eyed harem. Under the shade of these gigantic trees he has rested,
perhaps smoked his "tobacco mingled with amber," and fallen to sleep, his
dreams unhaunted by visions of the stern traveller from the far-east, whose
sails even then might be within sight of the shore. In these tanks he has
bathed. Here were his gardens, and his aviaries, and his fish-ponds.
Through these now tangled and deserted woods, he may have been carried by
his young nobles in his open litter, under a splendid dais, stepping out
upon the rich stuffs which his slaves spread before him on the green and
velvet turf.

And from the very rock where the castle stands, he may have looked out upon
his fertile valley and great capital, with its canoe-covered lakes and
outspreading villages and temples, and gardens of flowers, no care for the
future darkening the bright vision!

Tradition says, that now these caves and tanks and woods are haunted by the
shade of the conqueror's Indian love, the far-famed Doña Marina, but I
think she would be afraid of meeting with the wrathful spirit of the Indian
emperor. The castle itself, modern though it be, seems like a tradition!
The Viceroy Galvez, who built it, is of a bygone race! The apartments are
lonely and abandoned, the walls falling to ruin, the glass of the windows
and the carved work of the doors have been sold; and standing at this great
height, exposed to every wind that blows, it is rapidly falling to decay.
We were accompanied by Count C---a, and received by a Mexican governor, who
rarely resides there, and who very civilly conducted us everywhere. But
Chapultepec is not a _show-place_. One must go there early in the morning,
when the dew is on the grass, or in the evening, when the last rays of the
sun are gilding with rosy light the snowy summits of the volcanoes; and
dismount from your horse, or step out of your carriage and wander forth
without guide or object, or fixed time for return.

We set off early, passing over a fine paved road, divided by a great and
solid aqueduct of nine hundred arches, one of the two great aqueducts by
which fresh water is conveyed to the city, and of which the two sources are
in the hill of Chapultepec, and in that of Santa Fe, at a much greater
distance. When we arrived, the sleepy soldiers, who were lounging before
the gates, threw them open to let the carriage enter, and we drew up in
front of the great cypress, known by the name of "Montezuma's Cypress," a
most stupendous tree--dark, solemn, and stately, its branches unmoved as
the light wind played amongst them, of most majestic height, and forty-one
feet in circumference. A second cypress standing near, and of almost equal
size, is even more graceful, and they, and all the noble trees which adorn
these speaking solitudes, are covered with a creeping plant, resembling
gray moss, hanging over every branch like long gray hair, giving them a
most venerable and druidical look.

We wandered through the noble avenues, and rested under the trees, and
walked through the tangled shrubberies, bright with flowers and coloured
berries, and groped our way into the cave, and stood by the large clear
tank, and spent some time in the old garden; and then got again into the
carriage, that we might be dragged up the precipitous ascent on which
stands the castle, the construction of which aroused the jealousy of the
government against the young count, whose taste for the picturesque had
induced him to choose this elevated site for his summer palace.

The interior was never finished; yet, even as it stands, it cost the
Spanish government three hundred thousand dollars. When we look at its
strong military capabilities and commanding position, fortified with
salient walls and parapets towards Mexico, and containing on its northern
side great moats and subterraneous vaults, capable of holding a vast supply
of provisions, the jealousy of the government, and their suspicions that it
was a fortress masked as a summer retreat, are accountable enough.

The Vice-Queen Galvez, was celebrated for her beauty and goodness, and was
universally adored in Mexico. A sister of hers, who still survives, and who
paid me a visit the other day, says that her beauty chiefly consisted in
the exceeding fairness of her complexion, very few _blondes_ having then
been seen in this part of the world.

From the terr

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