The Home of the Blizzard
by Sir Douglas Mawson · English · Gutenberg #6137 · 1,339,405 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: The Home of the Blizzard
Author: Sir Douglas Mawson
Release date: July 1, 2004 [eBook #6137]
Most recently updated: March 24, 2009
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/6137
Credits: Produced by Geoffrey Cowling, and David Widger
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HOME OF THE BLIZZARD ***
Produced by Geoffrey Cowling
THE HOME OF THE BLIZZARD:
BEING THE STORY OF THE AUSTRALASIAN ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1911-1914;
By Sir Douglas Mawson, D.Sc., B.E.
ILLUSTRATED IN COLOUR AND BLACK AND WHITE ALSO WITH MAPS
WITH 260 FULL-PAGE AND SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS BY DR. E. A. WILSON AND
OTHER MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION, PHOTOGRAVURE FRONTISPIECES, 12 PLATES
IN FACSIMILE FROM DR. WILSON'S SKETCHES, PANORAMAS AND MAPS
TO THOSE WHO MADE IT POSSIBLE: THE SUBSCRIBERS AND CO-OPERATORS
TO THOSE WHO MADE IT A SUCCESS: MY COMRADES
AND TO THOSE WHO WAITED
AUTHOR'S PREFACE
The object of this book is to present a connected narrative of the
Expedition from a popular and general point of view. The field of work
is a very extensive one, and I feel that this account provides a record
inadequate to our endeavours. However, I am comforted by the fact that
the lasting reputation of the Expedition is founded upon the scientific
volumes which will appear in due course.
Allusion to the history of Antarctic exploration has been reduced to a
minimum, as the subject has been ably dealt with by previous writers.
This, and several other aspects of our subject, have been relegated
to special appendices in order to make the story more readable and
self-contained.
A glossary of technicalities is introduced for readers not familiar with
the terms. In the same place is given a list of animals referred to from
time to time. There, the common name is placed against the scientific
name, so rendering it unnecessary to repeat the latter in the text.
The reports handed to me by the leaders concerning the work of sledging
journeys and of the respective bases were in the main clearly and
popularly written. Still it was necessary to make extensive excisions so
as to preserve a "balance" of justice in all the accounts, and to keep
the narrative within limits. I wish to assure the various authors of my
appreciation of their contributions.
Mr. Frank Hurley's artistic taste is apparent in the numerous
photographs. We who knew the circumstances can warmly testify to his
perseverance under conditions of exceptional difficulty. Mr. A. J.
Hodgeman is responsible for the cartographical work, which occupied
his time for many months. Other members of the Expedition have
added treasures to our collection of illustrations; each of which is
acknowledged in its place.
To Dr. A. L. McLean, who assisted me in writing and editing the book, I
am very greatly indebted. To him the book owes any literary style it may
possess. Dr. McLean's journalistic talent was discovered by me when he
occupied the post of Editor of the 'Adelie Blizzard', a monthly volume
which helped to relieve the monotony of our second year in Adelie
Land. For months he was constantly at work, revising cutting down or
amplifying the material of the story.
Finally, I wish to express my thanks to Dr. Hugh Robert Mill for hints
and criticisms by which we have profited.
DOUGLAS MAWSON
London, Autumn 1914.
FOREWORD
Nor on thee yet
Shall burst the future, as successive zones
Of several wonder open on some spirit
Flying secure and glad from heaven to heaven.
BROWNING
The aim of geographical exploration has, in these days, interfused with
the passion for truth. If now the ultimate bounds of knowledge have
broadened to the infinite, the spirit of the man of science has
quickened to a deeper fervour. Amid the finished ingenuities of
the laboratory he has knitted a spiritual entente with the moral
philosopher, viewing:
The narrow creeds of right and wrong, which fade
Before the unmeasured thirst for good.
Science and exploration have never been at variance; rather, the desire
for the pure elements of natural revelation lay at the source of that
unquenchable power the "love of adventure."
Of whatever nationality the explorer was always emboldened by that
impulse, and, if there ever be a future of decadence, it will live again
in his ungovernable heritage.
Eric the Red; Francis Drake--the same ardour was kindled at the heart of
either. It is a far cry from the latter, a born marauder, to the modern
scientific explorer. Still Drake was a hero of many parts, and though
a religious bigot in present acceptation, was one of the enlightened of
his age. A man who moved an equal in a court of Elizabethan manners was
not untouched by the glorious ideals of the Renaissance.
Yet it was the unswerving will of a Columbus, a Vasco da Gama or a
Magellan which created the devotion to geographical discovery, per se,
and made practicable the concept of a spherical earth. The world was
opened in imaginative entirety, and it now remained for the geographer
to fill in the details brought home by the navigator.
It was long before Thule the wondrous ice-land of the North yielded her
first secrets, and longer ere the Terra Australis of Finne was laid bare
to the prying eyes of Science.
Early Arctic navigation opened the bounds of the unknown in a haphazard
and fortuitous fashion. Sealers and whalers in the hope of rich booty
ventured far afield, and, ranging among the mysterious floes or riding
out fierce gales off an ice-girt coast, brought back strange tales to
a curious world. Crudely embellished, contradictory, yet alluring they
were; but the demand for truth came surely to the rescue. Thus, it was
often the whaler who forsook his trade to explore for mere exploration's
sake. Baffin was one of those who opened the gates to the North.
Then, too, the commercial spirit of the generations who sought a North
West Passage was responsible for the incursions of many adventurers into
the new world of the ice.
Strangely enough, the South was first attacked in the true scientific
spirit by Captain Cook and later by Bellingshausen. Sealing and whaling
ventures followed in their train.
At last the era had come for the expedition, planned, administered,
equipped and carried out with a definite objective. It is characteristic
of the race of men that the first design should have centred on the
Pole--the top of the earth, the focus of longitude, the magic goal, to
reach which no physical sacrifice was too great. The heroism of Parry
is a type of that adamant persistence which has made the history of the
conquest of the Poles a volume in which disaster and death have played
a large part. It followed on years of polar experience, it resulted from
an exact knowledge of geographical and climatic conditions, a fearless
anticipation, expert information on the details of transport--and the
fortune of the brave--that Peary and Amundsen had their reward in the
present generation.
Meanwhile, in the wake of the pioneers of new land there were passing
the scientific workers born in the early nineteenth century. Sir James
Clark Ross is an epitome of that expansive enthusiasm which was the
keynote of the life of Charles Darwin. The classic "Voyage of the
Beagle" (1831-36) was a triumph of patient rigorous investigation
conducted in many lands outside the polar circles.
The methods of Darwin were developed in the 'Challenger' Expedition
(1872) which worked even to the confines of the southern ice. And
the torch of the pure flame of Science was handed on. It was the same
consuming ardour which took Nansen across the plateau of Greenland,
which made him resolutely propound the theory of the northern ice-drift,
to maintain it in the face of opposition and ridicule and to plan an
expedition down to the minutest detail in conformity therewith. The
close of the century saw Science no longer the mere appendage but the
actual basis of exploratory endeavour.
Disinterested research and unselfish specialization are the phrases born
to meet the intellectual demands of the new century.
The modern polar expedition goes forth with finished appliances, with
experts in every department--sailors, artisans, soldiers and students
in medley; supremely, with men who seek risk and privation--the glory of
the dauntless past. A.L.M.
INTRODUCTION
One of the oft-repeated questions for which I usually had a ready
answer, at the conclusion of Sir Ernest Shackleton's Expedition
(1907-09) was, "Would you like to go to the Antarctic again?" In the
first flush of the welcome home and for many months, during which the
keen edge of pleasure under civilized conditions had not entirely worn
away, I was inclined to reply with a somewhat emphatic negative. But,
once more a man in the world of men, lulled in the easy repose of
routine, and performing the ordinary duties of a workaday world,
old emotions awakened. The grand sweet days returned in irresistible
glamour, faraway "voices" called:
...from the wilderness, the vast and Godlike spaces,
The stark and sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole.
There always seemed to be something at the back of my mind, stored
away for future contemplation, and it was an idea which largely matured
during my first sojourn in the far South. At times, during the long
hours of steady tramping across the trackless snow-fields, one's
thoughts flow in a clear and limpid stream, the mind is unruffled and
composed and the passion of a great venture springing suddenly before
the imagination is sobered by the calmness of pure reason. Perchance
this is true of certain moments, but they are rare and fleeting. It may
have been in one such phase that I suddenly found myself eager for more
than a glimpse of the great span of Antarctic coast lying nearest to
Australia.
Professor T. W. E. David, Dr. F. A. Mackay and I, when seeking the South
Magnetic Pole during the summer of 1908-09, had penetrated farthest into
that region on land. The limiting outposts had been defined by other
expeditions; at Cape Adare on the east and at Gaussberg on the west.
Between them lay my "Land of Hope and Glory," of whose outline and
glacial features the barest evidence had been furnished. There,
bordering the Antarctic Circle, was a realm far from the well-sailed
highways of many of the more recent Antarctic expeditions.
The idea of exploring this unknown coast took firm root in my mind
while I was on a visit to Europe in February 1910. The prospects of an
expedition operating to the west of Cape Adare were discussed with the
late Captain R. F. Scott and I suggested that the activities of his
expedition might be arranged to extend over the area in question.
Finally he decided that his hands were already too full to make any
definite proposition for a region so remote from his own objective.
Sir Ernest Shackleton was warmly enthusiastic when the scheme was laid
before him, hoping for a time to identify himself with the undertaking.
It was in some measure due to his initiative that I felt impelled
eventually to undertake the organization and leadership of an
expedition.
For many reasons, besides the fact that it was the country of my home
and Alma Mater, I was desirous that the Expedition should be maintained
by Australia. It seemed to me that here was an opportunity to prove that
the young men of a young country could rise to those traditions which
have made the history of British Polar exploration one of triumphant
endeavour as well as of tragic sacrifice. And so I was privileged to
rally the "sons of the younger son."
A provisional plan was drafted and put before the Australasian
Association for the Advancement of Science at their meeting held at
Sydney in January 1911, with a request for approval and financial
assistance. Both were unanimously granted, a sum of L1000 was voted and
committees were formed to co-operate in the arrangement of a scientific
programme and to approach the Government with a view to obtaining
substantial help.
The three leading members of the committees were Professor Orme Masson
(President), Professor T. W. Edgeworth David (President Elect) and
Professor G. C. Henderson (President of the Geographical Section). All
were zealous and active in furthering the projects of the Expedition.
Meanwhile I had laid my scheme of work before certain prominent
Australians and some large donations** had been promised. The sympathy
and warm-hearted generosity of these gentlemen was an incentive for me
to push through my plans at once to a successful issue.
** Refer to Finance Appendix.
I therefore left immediately for London with a view to making
arrangements there for a vessel suitable for polar exploration, to
secure sledging dogs from Greenland and furs from Norway, and to order
the construction of certain instruments and equipment. It was also my
intention to gain if possible the support of Australians residing in
London. The Council of the University of Adelaide, in a broad-minded
scientific spirit, granted me the necessary leave of absence from my
post as lecturer, to carry through what had now resolved itself into an
extensive and prolonged enterprise.
During my absence, a Committee of the Australasian Association for the
Advancement of Science approached the Commonwealth Government with an
appeal for funds. Unfortunately it was the year (1911) of the Coronation
of his Majesty King George V, and the leading members of the Cabinet
were in England, so the final answer to the deputation was postponed. I
was thus in a position of some difficulty, for many requirements had
to be ordered without delay if the Expedition were to get away from
Australia before the end of the year.
At length, through the kindness of Lord Northcliffe, the columns of the
Daily Mail were opened to us and Sir Ernest Shackleton made a strong
appeal on our behalf. The Royal Geographical Society set the seal of
its approval on the aims of the Expedition and many donations were soon
afterwards received.
At this rather critical period I was fortunate in securing the services
of Captain John King Davis, who was in future to act as Master of the
vessel and Second in Command of the Expedition. He joined me in April
1911, and rendered valuable help in the preliminary arrangements. Under
his direction the s.y. Aurora was purchased and refitted.
The few months spent in London were anxious and trying, but the memory
of them is pleasantly relieved by the generosity and assistance which
were meted out on every hand. Sir George Reid, High Commissioner for
the Australian Commonwealth, I shall always remember as an ever-present
friend. The preparations for the scientific programme received a strong
impetus from well-known Antarctic explorers, notably Dr. W. S. Bruce,
Dr. Jean Charcot, Captain Adrian de Gerlache, and the late Sir John
Murray and Mr. J. Y. Buchanan of the Challenger Expedition. In the
dispositions made for oceanographical work I was indebted for liberal
support to H.S.H. the Prince of Monaco.
In July 1911 I was once more in Australia, a large proportion of my time
being occupied with finance, the purchase and concentration of stores
and equipment and the appointment of the staff. In this work I was aided
by Professors Masson and David and by Miss Ethel Bage, who throughout
this busy period acted in an honorary capacity as secretary in
Melbourne.
Time was drawing on and the funds of the Expedition were wholly
inadequate to the needs of the moment, until Mr. T. H. Smeaton, M.P.,
introduced a deputation to the Hon. John Verran, Premier of South
Australia. The deputation, organized to approach the State Government
for a grant of L5000, was led by the Right Hon. Sir Samuel Way,
Bart., Chief Justice of South Australia and Chancellor of the Adelaide
University, and supported by Mr. Lavington Bonython, Mayor of Adelaide,
T. Ryan, M.P., the Presidents of several scientific societies and
members of the University staff. This sum was eventually forthcoming and
it paved the way to greater things.
In Sydney, Professor David approached the State Government on behalf of
the Expedition for financial support, and, through the Acting Premier,
the Hon. W. A. Holman, L7000 was generously promised. The State of
Victoria through the Hon. W. Watt, Premier of Victoria, supplemented our
funds to the extent of L6000.
Upheld by the prestige of a large meeting convened in the Melbourne
Town Hall during the spring, the objects of the Australasian Antarctic
Expedition were more widely published. On that memorable occasion the
Governor-General, Lord Denman, acted as chairman, and among others
who participated were the Hon. Andrew Fisher (Prime Minister of the
Commonwealth), the Hon. Alfred Deakin (Leader of the Opposition),
Professor Orme Masson (President A.A.A.S. and representative of
Victoria), Senator Walker (representing New South Wales) and Professor
G. C. Henderson (representing South Australia).
Soon after this meeting the Commonwealth Government voted L5000,
following a grant of L2000 made by the British Government at the
instance of Lord Denman, who from the outset had been a staunch friend
of the Expedition.
At the end of October 1911 all immediate financial anxiety had
passed, and I was able to devote myself with confidence to the final
preparations.
Captain Davis brought the 'Aurora' from England to Australia, and on
December 2, 1911, we left Hobart for the South. A base was established
on Macquarie Island, after which the ship pushed through the ice and
landed a party on an undiscovered portion of the Antarctic Continent.
After a journey of fifteen hundred miles to the west of this base
another party was landed and then the Aurora returned to Hobart to refit
and to carry out oceanographical investigations, during the year 1912,
in the waters south of Australia and New Zealand.
In December 1912 Captain Davis revisited the Antarctic to relieve the
two parties who had wintered there. A calamity befell my own sledging
party, Lieut. B. E. S. Ninnis and Dr. X. Mertz both lost their lives
and my arrival back at Winter Quarters was delayed for so long, that the
'Aurora' was forced to leave five men for another year to prosecute a
search for the missing party. The remainder of the men, ten in number,
and the party fifteen hundred miles to the west were landed safely at
Hobart in March 1912.
Thus the prearranged plans were upset by my non-return and the
administration of the Expedition in Australia was carried out by
Professor David, whose special knowledge was invaluable at such a
juncture.
Funds were once more required, and, during the summer of 1912,
Captain Davis visited London and secured additional support, while
the Australasian Association for the Advancement of Science again
successfully approached the Commonwealth Government (The Right Hon. J.
H. Cook, Prime Minister). In all, the sum of L8000 was raised to meet
the demands of a second voyage of relief.
The party left on Macquarie Island, who had agreed to remain at the
station for another year, ran short of food during their second winter.
The New Zealand Government rendered the Expedition a great service in
dispatching stores to them by the 'Tutanekai' without delay.
Finally, in the summer of 1913, the 'Aurora' set out on her third cruise
to the far South, picking up the parties at Macquarie Island and in
the Antarctic, carried out observations for two months amid the ice and
reached Adelaide late in February 1914.
Throughout a period of more than three years Professors David and
Masson--the fathers of the Expedition--worked indefatigably and
unselfishly in its interests. Unbeknown to them I have taken the liberty
to reproduce the only photographs at hand of these gentlemen, which
action I hope they will view favourably. That of Professor David needs
some explanation: It is a snapshot taken at Relief Inlet, South Victoria
Land, at the moment when the Northern Party of Shackleton's Expedition,
February 1909, was rescued by the S.Y. 'Nimrod'.
In shipping arrangements Capt. Davis was assisted throughout by Mr.
J. J. Kinsey, Christchurch, Capt. Barter, Sydney, and Mr. F. Hammond,
Hobart.
Such an undertaking is the work of a multitude and it is only by
sympathetic support from many sources that a measure of success can be
expected. In this connexion there are many names which I recall with
warm gratitude. It is impossible to mention all to whom the Expedition
is indebted, but I trust that none of those who have taken a prominent
part will fail to find an acknowledgment somewhere in these volumes.
I should specially mention the friendly help afforded by the
Australasian Press, which has at all times given the Expedition
favourable and lengthy notices, insisting on its national and scientific
character.
With regard to the conduct of the work itself, I was seconded by the
whole-hearted co-operation of the members, my comrades, and what they
have done can only be indicated in this narrative.
CONTENTS
AUTHOR'S PREFACE
FOREWORD
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I THE PROBLEM AND PREPARATIONS
CHAPTER II THE LAST DAYS AT HOBART AND THE VOYAGE TO
MACQUARIE ISLAND
CHAPTER III FROM MACQUARIE ISLAND TO ADELIE LAND
CHAPTER IV NEW LANDS
CHAPTER V FIRST DAYS IN ADELIE LAND
CHAPTER VI AUTUMN PROSPECTS
CHAPTER VII THE BLIZZARD
CHAPTER VIII DOMESTIC LIFE
CHAPTER IX MIDWINTER AND ITS WORK
CHAPTER X THE PREPARATION OF SLEDGING EQUIPMENT 176
CHAPTER XI SPRING EXPLOITS
CHAPTER XII ACROSS KING GEORGE V LAND
CHAPTER XIII TOIL AND TRIBULATION
CHAPTER XIV THE QUEST OF THE SOUTH MAGNETIC POLE
CHAPTER XV EASTWARD OVER THE SEA-ICE
CHAPTER XVI HORN BLUFF AND PENGUIN POINT
[VOLUME II]
CHAPTER XVII WITH STILLWELL'S AND BICKERTON'S PARTIES
CHAPTER XVIII THE SHIP'S STORY. BY CAPTAIN J. K. DAVIS
CHAPTER XIX THE WESTERN BASE--ESTABLISHMENT AND EARLY
ADVENTURES. BY F. WILD
CHAPTER XX THE WESTERN BASE--WINTER AND SPRING
CHAPTER XXI THE WESTERN BASE--BLOCKED ON THE SHELF-ICE.
BY F. WILD
CHAPTER XXII THE WESTERN BASE--LINKING UP WITH KAISER
WILHELM II LAND
CHAPTER XXIII A SECOND WINTER
CHAPTER XXIV NEARING THE END
CHAPTER XXV LIFE ON MACQUARIE ISLAND. BY G. F. AINSWORTH
CHAPTER XXVI A LAND OF STORM AND MIST. BY G. F. AINSWORTH
CHAPTER XXVII THROUGH ANOTHER YEAR. BY G. F. AINSWORTH
CHAPTER XXVIII THE HOMEWARD CRUISE
APPENDIX I THE STAFF
APPENDIX II SCIENTIFIC WORK
APPENDIX III AN HISTORICAL SUMMARY
APPENDIX IV GLOSSARY
APPENDIX V MEDICAL REPORTS:
WESTERN BASE (QUEEN MARY LAND).
BY S. E. JONES, M.B., Ch.M.
MAIN BASE (ADELIE LAND).
BY A. L. McLEAN, M.B., Ch.M., B.A.
APPENDIX VI FINANCE
APPENDIX VII EQUIPMENT
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Sir Douglas Mawson (Photogravure)
In Memoriam cross at Cape Denison (Photogravure)
COLOUR PLATES
Virgin solitudes
A weather-worn snow-berg
A grottoed iceberg
The Mertz Glacier Tongue, at a point 50 miles from the land
The Grey Rock Hills at Cape Denison
Winter quarters, Adelie Land
The Alpine-glow
"Antarctica is a world of colour, brilliant and intensely pure..."
Sledging in Adelie Land
[Volume II]
Islets fringing the mainland: view looking west from Stillwell Island
Rafts of floe-ice
Before sunrise: camped near the Hippo Nunatak
Avalanche rocks
Delay Point
The great "Bergschrund" of the Denman Glacier
Tussock slopes and misty highlands
The shack and its vicinity
A Victoria penguin on the nest
A growth of lichen on red sandstone
Antarctic marine life
Brought up in the deep-sea trawl
PLATES
Professor T. W. Edgeworth David
Professor Orme Masson
Captain John King Davis
The wall of the Antarctic Continent
Finner whales of the South
The 'Aurora' crossing the equator, August 1911
Frank Wild
Ginger and her family on the voyage from London
Queen's Wharf, Hobart, an hour before sailing, December 2, 1911
The last view of Hobart nestling below Mt. Wellington
A big, following sea
McLean walking aft in rough weather
Cruising along the west coast of Macquarie Island
A Giant Petrel on the nest
A Young Giant Petrel on the nest. Caroline Cove
The wreck of the "Clyde"
The boat harbour--Hassleborough Bay
The North End of Macquarie Island showing Wireless Hill. The living hut
is at the north end of the isthmus, with North-East Bay on the right and
Hassleborough Bay on the left side
The 'Aurora' anchored in Hassleborough Bay. In the foreground giant
seaweed is swinging in the wash of the surge
A Wanderer Albatross at rest on the water
Hunter tickles a sleeping baby Sea Elephant
A typical Table-Topped neve berg originating from floating Shelf Ice
An Antarctic iceberg with a reticulation of crevasses on its tilted
surface. This berg had no doubt taken its origin from the ice of the
coastal cliffs of Adelie Land
In Pack-Ice
A cavern in the wall (120 feet) of the shelf ice of the Mertz
Glacier-Tongue
A glimpse from within the cavern (shown in the preceding illustration)
The 'Aurora' in Commonwealth Bay; the rising plateau of Adelie Land in
the distance
The invaluable motor-launch; left to right, Hamilton, Bickerton, and
Blake
The whale-boat with passengers for the shore; Wild at the steering oar
First steps in the formation of the Main Base Station; landing of stores
and equipment at the head of the Boat Harbour, Cape Denison. In the
distance men are to be seen sledging the materials to the site selected
for the erection of the hut
A view of a rocky stretch of the Adelie Land Coast west of Commonwealth
Bay
A panorama looking west from winter quarters. On the left and in the
distance are the rising slopes of the inland ice. The moraine is in the
foreground
A panorama of the sea front looking eastward from winter quarters. The
plateau slopes are visible to a height of l500 feet
In open pack-ice
The face of the Shackleton Ice-Shelf 100 miles north of the mainland.
Each strongly-marked horizontal band on the sheer wall represents a
year's snowfall
The 'Aurora' anchored to thick floe-ice 100 miles north of the western
base, Queen Mary Land. In this region the annual snowfall is very heavy,
so that it is possible that the great thickness of floe is due to the
accumulation of one year
A berg with inclusions of mud and rock. Long. 10 degrees E.
The 'Flying-Fox' viewed from the floe-ice below the brink of the shelf
ice on which the western party wintered
Summer at the boat harbour, Cape Denison
An Adelie penguin on the nest defending her eggs
The living-hut, nearing completion. The tents and shelter built of
benzine cases used as temporary quarters are shown
The completion of the hut--cheering the Union Jack as it was hoisted on
the flag pole
Adelie penguins at home, Cape Denison
A view of the main base hut in February 1912, just prior to its
completion. Within a few days of the taking of this picture the hut
became so buried in packed snow that ever afterwards little beyond the
roof was to be seen
Weddell seals asleep on pancake ice
Adelie penguin after weathering a severe blizzard. observe the lumps of
ice adhering to it
A Panoramic view looking south from near the hut. In the distance are
the slopes of the inland ice-sheet. In the foreground is the terminal
moraine. Between the rocks and the figure is a zone where rapid thawing
takes place in the summer owing to the amount of dirt contained in the
ice
A panoramic view looking north towards the sea. In the middle of the
picture is Round Lake. The hut is towards the left-hand side and the
anemograph is on the hill. The men are practising ski running
An evening view from Cape Denison
The head of a Weddell seal
A Weddell seal scratching himself. "Drat those fleas!"
The meteorologist with an ice-mask
Where the plateau descends to Commonwealth Bay
MacCormick Skua gull on the nest with egg
Chick of MacCormick Skua gull on the nest
Protection--Adelie penguin and chick
The lower moraine, composed of water worn boulders, Cape Denison
An ice-polished surface, Cape Denison
The boat harbour in March. The hut is seen dimly through light drift
"Race of the Spray Smoke's Hurtling Sheet"
Walking against a strong wind
Picking ice for domestic purposes in a hurricane wind. Note the high
angle at which Webb is leaning on the wind
Leaning upon the wind; Madigan near the meteorological screen
Stillwell collecting geological specimens in the wind
In the blizzard; getting ice for domestic purposes from the glacier
adjacent to the hut
An incident in March soon after the completion of the hut: Hodgeman, the
night watchman, returning from his rounds outside, pushes his way into
the veranda through the rapidly accumulating drift snow
Mertz in the snow tunnels on his way to the interior of the hut with a
box of ice for the melters
Mertz emerging from the trap-door in the roof
Working in the hurricane wind, Adelie Land
Getting ice for domestic purposes. Whetter picking; Madigan with the
ice-box
The ice-cliff coastline east of winter quarters
Madigan's frostbitten face
Correll, Bage, McLean, Hodgeman, Hunter, and Bickerton
A winter afternoon scene in the hut. From the left: Mertz, McLean,
Madigan, Hunter, Hodgeman. High on the left is the acetylene generator
Taking a turn in the kitchen department. Hunter, Hodgeman, Bage. The
doorway on the right is the entrance to the workroom
A corner of the hut--Bage mending his sleeping bag. The bunks in two
tiers around the wall are almost hidden by the clothing hanging from the
ceiling
A winter evening at the hut. Standing up: Mawson, Madigan, Ninnis, and
Correll. Sitting round the table from left to right: Stillwell, Close,
McLean, Hunter, Hannam, Hodgeman, Murphy, Lasebon, Bickerton, Mertz, and
Bage
A morning in the workshop. From left to right: Hodgeman, Hunter,
Lasebon, Correll, and Hannam. The petrol engine part of the wireless
plant on the right
Welding by thermit in the workroom, Adelie Land. Bickerton, Correll,
Hannam and Mawson
In the catacombs. Ninnis on the right
Bage and his tide gauge which was erected on the frozen bay ice
Raising the lower section of the northern wireless mast
The weathered cliffs of a glacier sheet pushing out into the frozen sea
east of Cape Denison
Bage at the door of his astronomical transit House
Webb and his magnetograph house
At work on the air-tractor sledge in the hangar; Bage, Ninnis, and
Bickerton
Webb adjusting the instruments in the magnetograph house a calm noon in
winter, Cape Denison
The ridged surface of a lake frozen during a blizzard
A lively scene in the vicinity of an Antarctic Petrel rookery, Cape
Hunter
A Weddell seal swimming below the ice-foot
A rascally Sea Leopard casting a wicked eye over the broken floe at
Land's End. Main Base
A Crab-Eater seal; common amongst the pack-ice
The rare Ross seal
One of McLean's cultures; bacteria and moulds; illustrating
micro-organisms in the hut
Ice flowers on the newly formed sea-ice
Madigan visiting the anemograph screen in a high wind
The Puffometer, designed to record maximum gust velocities
An enormous cone of snow piled up by the blizzards under the coastal
cliffs
The cliffs at Land's End, Cape Denison. On the brow of the cliff in
front of the figure (Mertz) is a good example of a snow cornice
On the frozen sea in a cavern eaten out by the waves under the coastal
ice-cliffs
Ice stalactites draping the foreshores
A grotto of "mysteries"
The relief of Wild's party. The "Aurora" approaching the floe at the
western base, February 1913
Pacing the deck: Capt. John King Davis and Capt. James Davis
An Adelie penguin feeding its young
"Amundsen", one of the sledge dogs sent down to us from Amundsen's South
Polar Expedition
At the foot of a snow ramp beneath the coastal ice-cliffs, Commonwealth
Bay
At Aladdin's Cave. The vertical passage leading down into the cave
itself is situated immediately behind the figure on the right
Beneath the surface of the plateau. Bage preparing a meal in Aladdin's
Cave in August
Laseron and Hunter using the collapsible steel handcart in preparing for
dredging on the frozen sea
Greenland Sledging Dogs--"John Bull" and "Ginger"--tethered on the rocks
adjacent to the hut
The Mackellar islets viewed from an elevation of 800 feet on the
mainland
Snow Petrels preparing to nest, Cape Denison
A Snow Petrel on the nest
Adelie penguins diving into the sea in quest of food
Adelie penguins jumping on to the floe
Mertz in an icy ravine
Mertz and Ninnis arrive with the dogs at Aladdin's Cave
Mertz emerging from Aladdin's Cave
A team of dogs eagerly following Ninnis
The dogs enjoy their work
Speeding east
A distant view of Aurora Peak from the west
Lieutenant B. E. S. Ninnis, R.F.
Mertz, Ninnis, and Mawson erecting the tent in a high wind
A later stage in erection of the tent in a wind (one man is inside)
Dr. Xavier Mertz
Pages from Dr. Mertz' diary
Mawson emerging from his makeshift tent
The half-sledge used in the last stage of Mawson's journey
"...The long journey was at an end--a terrible chapter of my life was
finished!"
The southern supporting party on the plateau. Hunter, Murphy and Laseron
The southern and supporting parties building a depot on the plateau
Depot made by the southern and supporting parties at a point 67 miles
south of Commonwealth Bay. Murphy, Laseron, and Hunter packing sledge in
the foreground; Bage in the distance
A rough sledging surface of high Sastrugi encountered by the southern
party 200 miles S.S.E. of the hut
Farthest south camp of southern party, 17 "minutes" (about 50 miles)
from the South Magnetic Pole. Bage near sledge; Webb taking set of
magnetic observations behind snow barricade
Sastrugi furrowed by the mighty winds of the plateau, 250 miles S.S.E.
of winter quarters, Adelie Land
Under reefed sail. Southern party 290 miles S.S.E. of winter quarters,
Adelie Land
Hurley in sledging gear
Correll on the edge of a ravine in the ice sheet
Madigan's, Murphy's, and Stillwell's parties breaking camp at Aladdin's
Cave at the commencement of the summer journeys
The surface of the continental ice sheet in the coastal region where it
is badly crevassed
Working the sledge through broken sea ice, 46 miles off King George V
Land. Madigan, Correll and McLean
The "Organ-Pipes" of Horn Bluff (1000 feet in height) pushing out from
the mainland
Madigan, Correll and McLean camped below the cliffs of Horn Bluff (1000
FEET IN height). Columnar Dolerite is seen surmounting a sedimentary
series partly buried in the talus-slope
An outcrop of a sedimentary formation containing bands of coal
projecting through the talus slope below the columnar dolerite at Horn
Bluff
The face of a granite outcrop near penguin point. At its base is a tide
crack and ice foot
The granite cliffs at Penguin Point where Cape Pigeon and Silver Petrel
rookeries were found; the site of New Year's Camp
[VOLUME II]
Madigan Nunatak--Close and Laseron standing by the sledge
A desolate camp on the plateau
Sledging rations for three men for three months
Stillwell Island--a haunt of the Silver-Grey petrel
"The Bus", the air-tractor sledge
Bickerton and his sledge with detachable wheels
Amongst the splintered ice where the ice-sheet descends to the sea near
Cape Denison
The big winding-drum for the deep-sea dredging cable
Fletcher with the driver loaded ready to take a sounding
At the provision depot for castaways provided by the New Zealand
Government, Camp Cove, Carnley Harbour, Auckland Island. Primmer on the
right
The brick pier erected at Port Ross, Auckland Islands, by the
magneticians of Sir James Clarke Ross's Expedition
The "Aurora" at anchor in Port Ross, Auckland Islands
The Monagasque trawl hoisted on the derrick: Gray standing by
A remarkable berg, two cusps standing on a single basement. Note that it
has risen considerably out of the sea, exposing old water lines
A portal worn through a berg by the waves
A turreted berg
A Midsummer view of the hut and its neighbourhood, looking S.E.
Forging through pack-ice
Members of the main base party homeward bound, January 1913. From left
to right: back row, Whetter, Hurley, Webb, Hannam, Laseron, Close; front
row, Stillwell, Hunter, Correll, Murphy
"Wireless" Corner in the workshop. Our link with civilization
The "Aurora" anchored to the floe off the western base
The establishment of the western base. Hauling stores to the top of the
ice-shelf
The western base hut in winter. Note the entrance; a vertical hole in
the snow in the foreground
The western base hut--The Grottoes--in summer
An evening camp, Queen Mary Land
A man-hauled sledge
In the veranda of the western base hut--The "Grottoes"--looking towards
the entrance dug vertically down through the snow drift
The wind-weathered igloo built for magnetic observations--western base
Nunatak--Queen Mary Land: showing remarkable moat on windward side and
ramp on lee
Midwinter's dinner in Queen Mary Land, 1912. From left to right:
Behind--Hoadley, Dovers, Watson, Harrisson, Wild. In Front--Jones,
Moyes, Kennedy
A bevy of Emperor penguins on the floe
A yawning crevasse
Wild's party making slow progress in dangerous country
Wild, Kennedy, and Harrisson amongst the abysses of the Denman glacier
"The whole was the wildest, maddest and yet the grandest thing
imaginable"
Wild's party working their sledges through the crushed ice at the foot
of Denman glacier
The Hippo Nunatak
Dog-sledging
Where the floe-ice meets the Shackleton Shelf
The hummocky floe on the southern margin of the Davis Sea
View showing the young birds massed together at the Emperor penguins'
rookery at Haswell Island
Antarctic petrels on the nest
A Snow petrel chick on the nest
A Silver-Grey petrel on the nest
The symmetrically domed outline of Drygalski Island, low on the horizon.
The island is 1200 feet high and 9 miles in diameter
The main western party on their return to the "Grottoes." from the left:
Hoadley, Jones and Dovers
Blizzard-harassed penguins, after many days buried in the snow
The pancake ice under the cliffs at Land's End
A wonderful canopy of ice
Sastrugi sculptured by the incessant blizzards
The terminal moraine, near the hut, Cape Denison
Disappearing in the drift
The hut looming through the drift
A wall of solid gneiss near winter quarters
An erratic on the moraine. Cape Denison
Frozen spray built up by the blizzards along the shore
A view of the mainland from the Mackellar Islets: ice-capped islets in
the foreground: the rock visible on the mainland is Cape Denison
A Wilson petrel on the nest, Mackellar Islets
The "Aurora" lying at anchor, Commonwealth Bay; in the distance the
ice-slopes of the mainland are visible rising to a height of 3500 feet.
In the foreground is a striking formation originating by the freezing of
spray dashed up by the hurricane wind
The shack: showing the natural rocky protection on the windward side
The interior of the operating hut on Wireless Hill
Weka pecking on the beach
Chicks of the Dominican gull
Macquarie Island Skuas feeding
Bull Sea Elephants fighting
The thermometer screen, Macquarie Island
The wind-recording instruments, Macquarie Island
"Feather bed" terrace near Eagle Point, Macquarie Island
A glacial lake (Major Lake) on Macquarie Island, 600 feet above sea
level
Victoria penguins
View of the wireless station on the summit of Wireless Hill
The wireless operating hut
The wireless engine hut
Panoramic view of Macquarie Island, as seen from Wireless Hill at the
north extremity of the island. The shack is near the bottom of the
picture on the left-hand side: the sealers' hut at the far end of
the isthmus: the distant left-hand point of the coast is the Nuggets:
north-east bay on the left: Hasselborough Bay on the right
A view of the shore at The Nuggets: the sealers' shed on the right.
the bare patches far inland high on the hills above the shed are Royal
penguins' rookeries, from which they travel to the beach in a long
procession
Sooty albatrosses nesting
A white Giant Petrel on the nest
A Giant Petrel rookery
The Macquarie Island party. From left to right: Sandell, Ainsworth,
Sawyer, Hamilton, Blake
King penguins
The head of a Sea Leopard, showing fight
A precocious Victoria penguin
Young male Sea Elephants at play
A large Sea Leopard on the beach
A Sea Elephant
A cormorant rookery, Hasselborough Bay
A young King penguin
A Sclater penguin
Royal penguins on the nest
Gentoo penguin and young
A cow Sea Elephant and pup
The head of a bull Sea Elephant
A rookery of Sea Elephants near the shore at the Nelson reef, chiefly
cows and pups
A bull Sea Elephant in a fighting attitude
A cormorant and young on nest
The wild West Coast of Macquarie Island
A Royal penguins rookery
The wreck of the "Gratitude" on the Nuggets beach
Kerguelen Cabbage
Flowering plant
Darby and Joan. Two rare examples of penguins which visited the shack,
Macquarie Island. On the left a Sclater penguin, on the right an albino
Royal penguin
Large erratics and other glacial debris on the summit of Macquarie
Island
Pillow-form lava on the highlands of Macquarie Island
Waterfall Lake, of glacial origin
On the plateau-like summit of Macquarie Island; a panorama near the
north end. Glacial lakes and tarns in the foreground
The King penguins rookery, Lusitania Bay
The head of a bull Sea Elephant photographed in the act of roaring
The rookery of Royal penguins at the south end, viewed from a cliff
several hundred feet above it
Young Sea Elephants asleep amongst Royal penguins, south end rookery
Hamilton inspecting a good catch of fish at Lusitania Bay
Hamilton obtaining the blubber of a Sea Elephant for fuel
An illustration of the life on the Mackellar Islets
An ice mushroom amongst the Mackellar Islets
View looking out of a shallow ravine at the eastern extremity of the
rocks at Cape Denison
"Hurley had before him a picture in perfect proportion...."
Antarctic petrels resting on the snow
Silver-grey petrels making love
Looking towards the mainland from Stillwell Island: Silver-grey petrels
nesting in the foreground
Antarctic petrels nesting on the rocky ledges of the cliffs near Cape
Hunter
Icing ship in the pack north of Termination Ice-tongue
Emperor penguins follow the leader into the sea
Emperor penguins jumping on to the floe
Cape Hunter, composed of ancient sedimentary rocks (Phyllites)
Examples of Antarctic marine crustaceans
TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS
Antarctic discoveries preceding the year 1910
Plan and section of the S.Y. 'Aurora"
Map of Macquarie Island by L. R. BLAKE
Ships' tracks in the vicinity of Totten's Land and North's Land
Ships' tracks in the vicinity of Knox Land and Budd Land
Plan of the hut, Adelie Land
Sections across the hut, Adelie Land
The vicinity of the main base, Adelie Land
A section of the coastal slope of the continental ice-sheet inland from
winter quarters, Adelie Land
Wind velocity and wind direction charts for a period of twenty-four
hours, Adelie Land
A comparison of wind velocities and temperatures prevailing at Cape
Royds, McMurdo Sound, and at winter quarters, Adelie Land, during the
months of May and June
The drift-gauge
The wind velocity and wind direction charts for midwinter day
The tide-gauge
Midwinter Day menu at the main base, Adelie Land, 1912
Section through a Nansen sledging cooker mounted on the Primus
Map showing the track of the southern sledging party from the main base
[VOLUME II]
Map showing the remarkable distribution of islets fringing the
coast-line of Adelie Land in the vicinity of Cape Gray
Map showing the tracks of the western sledging party, Adelie Land
Plan illustrating the arrangements for deep-sea trawling on board the
"Aurora"
Map of the Auckland Islands
The "Contents" page of the first number of the "Adelie Blizzard"
The meteorological chart for April 12, 1913, compiled by the
Commonwealth Meteorological Bureau
A diagrammatic sketch illustrating the meteorological conditions at the
main base, noon, September 6, 1913
Plan of the hut, Macquarie Island
Map of the north end of Macquarie Island by L. R. Blake
A section across Macquarie Island through Mt. Elder, by L. R. Blake
A sketch illustrating the distribution of the Mackellar Islets
A section illustrating the moat in the Antarctic continental shelf
Signatures of members of the land parties
A section of the Antarctic plateau from the coast to a point 300 miles
inland, along the route followed by the southern sledging party
A section across a part of the Antarctic continent through the South
Magnetic Pole
A section of the floor of the Southern Ocean between Tasmania and King
George V Land
A section of the floor of the Southern Ocean between Western Australia
and Queen Mary Land
A map showing Antarctic land discoveries preceding 1838
A map showing Antarctic land discoveries preceding 1896
A map of the Antarctic regions as known at the present day
FOLDING MAPS
Regional map showing the area covered by the Australasian Antarctic
Expedition, 1911-1914
King George V Land, showing tracks of the eastern sledging parties from
the main base
Queen Mary Land, showing tracks of the sledging party from the main base
CHAPTER I THE PROBLEM AND PREPARATIONS
Notwithstanding the fact that it has been repeatedly stated in the
public press that the Australasian Antarctic expedition had no intention
of making the South Geographical Pole its objective, it is evident that
our aims were not properly realized by a large section of the British
public, considering that many references have appeared in print
attributing that purpose to the undertaking. With three other Antarctic
expeditions already in the field, it appeared to many, therefore, that
the venture was entirely superfluous.
The Expedition had a problem sketched in unmistakable feature, and
the following pages will shortly set forth its historical origin and
rationale.
The Antarctic problem** assumed its modern aspect after Captain Cook's
circumnavigation of the globe in high southern latitudes, accomplished
between 1772 and 1775. Fact replaced the fiction and surmise of former
times, and maps appeared showing a large blank area at the southern
extremity of the earth, where speculative cartographers had affirmed the
existence of habitable land extending far towards the Equator. Cook's
voyage made it clear that if there were any considerable mass of
Antarctic land, it must indubitably lie within the Antarctic Circle, and
be subjected to such stringent climatic conditions as to render it an
unlikely habitation for man.
** Dr. H. R. Mill has compiled a complete account of Antarctic
exploration in his "Siege of the South Pole." Refer also to the
Historical Appendix for an abridged statement.
Cook's reports of seals on the island of South Georgia initiated in the
Antarctic seas south of America a commercial enterprise, which is still
carried on, and has incidentally thrown much light upon the geography of
the South Polar regions. Indeed, almost the whole of such information,
prior to the year 1839, was the outcome of sealing and whaling projects.
About the year 1840, a wave of scientific enthusiasm resulted in the
dispatch of three national expeditions by France, the United States,
and Great Britain; part at least of whose programmes was Antarctic
exploration. Russia had previously sent out an expedition which had made
notable discoveries.
The contributions to knowledge gained at this period were considerable.
Those carried back to civilization by the British expedition under Ross,
are so well known that they need not be described. The French under
Dumont D'Urville and the Americans under Wilkes visited the region to
the southward of Australia--the arena of our own efforts--and frequent
references will be made to their work throughout this story.
What has been termed the period of averted interest now intervened,
before the modern movement set in with overpowering insistence. It
was not till 1897 that it had commenced in earnest. Since then many
adventurers have gone forth; most of the prominent civilized nations
taking their share in exploration. By their joint efforts some, at
least, of the mystery of Antarctica has been dispelled.
It is now a commonplace, largely in the world of geographical concerns,
that the earth has still another continent, unique in character, whose
ultimate bounds are merely pieced together from a fragmentary outline.
The Continent itself appears to have been sighted for the first time in
the year 1820, but no human being actually set foot on it until 1895.
The Belgian expedition under de Gerlache was the first to experience the
Antarctic winter, spending the year 1898 drifting helplessly, frozen
in the pack-ice, to the southward of America. In the following year a
British expedition under Borchgrevinck, wintering at Cape Adare, passed
a year upon the Antarctic mainland.
The main efforts of recent years have been centred upon the two more
accessible areas, namely, that in the American Quadrant** which is
prolonged as a tongue of land outside the Antarctic Circle, being
consequently less beset by ice; secondly, the vicinity of the Ross Sea
in the Australian Quadrant. It is because these two favoured domains
have for special reasons attracted the stream of exploration that
the major portion of Antarctica is unknown. Nevertheless, one is in a
position to sketch broad features which will probably not be radically
altered by any future expeditions.
** For convenience, the Antarctic regions may be referred to in four
main divisions, corresponding with the quadrants of the hemisphere. Of
the several suggestions thrown out by previous writers, the one adopted
here is that based on the meridian of Greenwich, referring the quadrants
to an adjacent continent or ocean. Thus the American Quadrant lies
between 0 degrees and 90 degrees W., the African Quadrant between
0 degrees and 90 degrees E., and the Australian Quadrant between 90
degrees and 180 degrees E. The fourth division is called the Pacific
Quadrant, since ocean alone lies to the north of it.
Certain it is that a continent approaching the combined areas of
Australia and Europe lies more or less buried beneath the South Polar
snows; though any statement of the precise area is insufficient for a
proper appreciation of the magnitude, unless its elevated plateau-like
character be also taken into consideration. It appears to be highest
over a wide central crown rising to more than ten thousand feet. Of the
remainder, there is little doubt that the major portion stands as high
as six thousand feet. The average elevation must far exceed that of any
other continent, for, with peaks nineteen thousand feet above sea-level,
its mountainous topography is remarkable. Along the coast of Victoria
Land, in the Australian Quadrant, are some of the most majestic vistas
of alpine scenery that the world affords. Rock exposures are rare, ice
appearing everywhere except in the most favoured places.
Regarding plant and animal life upon the land there is little to say.
The vegetable kingdom is represented by plants of low organization such
as mosses, lichens, diatoms and algae. The animal world, so far as true
land-forms are concerned, is limited to types like the protozoa (lowest
in the organic scale), rotifera and minute insect-like mites which lurk
hidden away amongst the tufts of moss or on the under side of loose
stones. Bacteria, most fundamental of all, at the basis, so to speak, of
animal and vegetable life, have a manifold distribution.
It is a very different matter when we turn to the life of the
neighbouring seas, for that vies in abundance with the warmer waters
of lower latitudes. There are innumerable seals, many sea-birds and
millions of penguins. As all these breed on Antarctic shores, the
coastal margin of the continent is not so desolate.
In view of the fact that life, including land-mammals, is abundant in
the North Polar regions, it may be asked why analogous forms are not
better represented in corresponding southern latitudes. Without going
too deeply into the question, it may be briefly stated, firstly, that a
more widespread glaciation than at present prevails invested the great
southern continent and its environing seas, within recent geological
times, effectually exterminating any pre-existing land life. Secondly,
since that period the continent has been isolated by a wide belt of
ocean from other lands, from which restocking might have taken
place after the manner of the North Polar regions. Finally, climatic
conditions in the Antarctic are, latitude for latitude, much more severe
than in the Arctic.
With regard to climate in general, Antarctica has the lowest mean
temperature and the highest wind-velocity of any land existing. This
naturally follows from the fact that it is a lofty expanse of ice-clad
land circumscribing the Pole, and that the Antarctic summer occurs when
the earth is farther from the sun than is the case during the Arctic
summer.
There are those who would impatiently ask, "What is the use of it all?"
The answer is brief.
[TEXT ILLUSTRATION]
Antarctic Land discoveries preceding the year 1910
The polar regions, like any other part of the globe, may be said to be
paved with facts, the essence of which it is necessary to acquire before
knowledge of this special zone can be brought to even a provisional
exactitude. On the face of it, polar research may seem to be specific
and discriminating, but it must be remembered that an advance in any one
of the departments into which, for convenience, science is artificially
divided, conduces to the advantage of all. Science is a homogeneous
whole. If we ignore the facts contained in one part of the world, surely
we are hampering scientific advance. It is obvious to every one that,
given only a fraction of the pieces, it is a much more difficult task to
put together a jig-saw puzzle and obtain an idea of the finished pattern
than were all the pieces at hand. The pieces of the jig-saw puzzle are
the data of science.
Though it is not sufficiently recognized, the advance of science is
attended by a corresponding increase in the creature comforts of
man. Again, from an economic aspect, the frozen South may not attract
immediate attention. But who can say what a train of enterprise the
future may bring?
Captain James Cook, on his return to London after the circumnavigation
of Antarctica, held that the far-southern lands had no future. Yet, a
few years later, great profits were being returned to Great Britain
and the United States from sealing-stations established as a result of
Cook's own observations. At the present day, several whaling companies
have flourishing industries in the Antarctic waters within the American
Quadrant.
Even now much can be said in regard to the possibilities offered by
the Antarctic regions for economic development, but, year by year, the
outlook will widen, since man is constantly resorting to subtler and
more ingenious artifice in applying Nature's resources. It will be
remembered that Charles Darwin, when in Australia, predicted a very
limited commercial future for New South Wales. But the mastery of man
overcame the difficulties which Darwin's too penetrating mind foresaw.
What will be the role of the South in the progress of civilization and
in the development of the arts and sciences, is not now obvious. As
sure as there is here a vast mass of land with potentialities, strictly
limited at present, so surely will it be cemented some day within the
universal plinth of things.
An unknown coast-line lay before the door of Australia. Following on
the general advance of exploration, and as a sequel to several important
discoveries, the time arrived when a complete elucidation of the
Antarctic problem was more than ever desirable. In the Australian
Quadrant, the broad geographical features of the Ross Sea area were well
known, but of the remainder and greater portion of the tract only vague
and imperfect reports could be supplied.
Before submitting our plans in outline, it will be as well to review the
stage at which discovery had arrived when our Expedition came upon the
scene.
The coast-line of the eastern extremity of the Australian Quadrant,
including the outline of the Ross Sea and the coast west-north-west
of Cape Adare as far as Cape North, was charted by Ross and has been
amplified by seven later expeditions. In the region west of Cape North,
recent explorers had done little up till 1911. Scott in the 'Discovery'
had disproved the existence of some of Wilkes's land; Shackleton in the
'Nimrod' had viewed some forty miles of high land beyond Cape North;
lastly, on the eve of our departure, Scott's 'Terra Nova' had met two
patches of new land--Oates Land--still farther west, making it evident
that the continent ranged at least two hundred and eighty miles in a
west-north-west direction from Cape Adare.
Just outside the western limit of the Australian Quadrant lies
Gaussberg, discovered by a German expedition under Drygalski in
1902. Between the most westerly point sighted by the 'Terra Nova' and
Gaussberg, there is a circuit of two thousand miles, bordering the
Antarctic Circle, which no vessel had navigated previous to 1840.
This was the arena of our activities and, therefore, a synopsis of the
voyages of early mariners will be enlightening.
Balleny, a whaling-master, with the schooner 'Eliza Scott' of one
hundred and fifty-four tons, and a cutter, the 'Sabrina' of fifty-four
tons, was the first to meet with success in these waters. Proceeding
southward from New Zealand in 1839, he located the Balleny Islands, a
group containing active volcanoes, lying about two hundred miles off
the nearest part of the mainland and to the north-west of Cape Adare.
Leaving these islands, Balleny sailed westward keeping a look-out for
new land. During a gale the vessels became separated and the 'Sabrina'
was lost with all hands. Balleny in the 'Eliza Scott' arrived safely
in England and reported doubtful land in 122 degrees E. longitude,
approximately. Dr. H. R. Mill says: "Although the name of the cutter
'Sabrina' has been given to an appearance of land at this point, we
cannot look upon its discovery as proved by the vague reference made by
the explorers."
On January 1, 1840, Dumont D'Urville sailed southward from Hobart in
command of two corvettes, the 'Astrolabe' and the 'Zelee'. Without much
obstruction from floating ice, he came within sight of the Antarctic
coast, thenceforth known as Adelie Land. The expedition did not set
foot on the mainland, but on an adjacent island. They remained in the
vicinity of the coast for a few days, when a gale sprang up which was
hazardously weathered on the windward side of the pack-ice. The ships
then cruised along the face of flat-topped ice-cliffs, of the type known
as barrier-ice or shelf-ice, which were taken to be connected with
land and named Cote Clarie. As will be seen later, Cote Clarie does not
exist.
Dr. H. R. Mill sums up the work done by the French expedition during its
eleven days' sojourn in the vicinity of the Antarctic coast:
"D'Urville's discoveries of land were of but little account. He twice
traced out considerable stretches of a solid barrier of ice, and at one
point saw and landed upon rocks in front of it; but he could only give
the vaguest account of what lay behind the barrier."
Wilkes of the American expedition proceeded south from Sydney at the
close of 1839. His vessels were the 'Vincennes', a sloop of war of seven
hundred and eighty tons, the 'Peacock', another sloop of six hundred and
fifty tons, the 'Porpoise', a gun-brig of two hundred and thirty tons
and a tender, the 'Flying Fish' of ninety-six tons. The scientists
of the expedition were precluded from joining in this part of the
programme, and were left behind in Sydney. Wilkes himself was loud in
his denunciation both of the ships and of the stores, though they had
been specially assembled by the naval department. The ships were in
Antarctic waters for a period of forty-two days, most of the time
separated by gales, during which the crews showed great skill in
navigating their ill-fitted crafts and suffered great hardships.
Land was reported almost daily, but, unfortunately, subsequent
exploration has shown that most of the landfalls do not exist. Several
soundings made by Wilkes were indicative of the approach to land, but
he must have frequently mistaken for it distant ice-masses frozen in the
pack. Experience has proved what deceptive light-effects may be observed
amid the ice and how easily a mirage may simulate reality.
Whatever the cause of Wilkes's errors, the truth remains that Ross
sailed over land indicated in a rough chart which had been forwarded
to him by Wilkes, just before the British expedition set out. More
recently, Captain Scott in the 'Discovery' erased many of the landfalls
of Wilkes, and now we have still further reduced their number. The
'Challenger' approached within fifteen miles of the western extremity
of Wilkes's Termination Land, but saw no sign of it. The 'Gauss' in
the same waters charted Kaiser Wilhelm II Land well to the south of
Termination Land, and the eastward continuation of the former could
not have been visible from Wilkes's ship. After the voyage of the
'Discovery', the landfalls, the existence of which had not been
disproved, might well have been regarded as requiring confirmation
before their validity could be recognised.
The only spot where rocks were reported in situ was in Adelie Land,
where the French had anticipated the Americans by seven days. Farther
west, earth and stones had been collected by Wilkes from material
embedded in floating masses of ice off the coast of his Knox Land. These
facts lend credence to Wilkes's claims of land in that vicinity. His
expedition did not once set foot on Antarctic shores, and, possibly on
account of the absence of the scientific staff, his descriptions tend to
be inexact and obscure. The soundings made by Wilkes were sufficient to
show that he was probably in some places at no great distance from the
coast, and, considering that his work was carried out in the days of
sailing-ships, in unsuitable craft, under the most adverse weather
conditions, with crews scurvy-stricken and discontented, it is wonderful
how much was achieved. We may amply testify that he did more than open
the field for future expeditions.
After we had taken into account the valuable soundings of the
'Challenger' (1872), the above comprised our knowledge concerning
some two thousand miles of prospective coast lying to the southward of
Australia, at a time when the plans of the Australasian expedition were
being formulated.
The original plans for the expedition were somewhat modified upon my
return from Europe. Briefly stated, it was decided that a party of five
men should be stationed at Macquarie Island, a sub-antarctic possession
of the Commonwealth. They were to be provided with a hut, stores and
a complete wireless plant, and were to prosecute general scientific
investigations, co-operating with the Antarctic bases in meteorological
and other work. After disembarking the party at Macquarie Island, the
'Aurora' was to proceed south on a meridian of 158 degrees E. longitude,
to the westward of which the Antarctic programme was to be conducted.
Twelve men, provisioned and equipped for a year's campaign and provided
with wireless apparatus, were to be landed in Antarctica on the first
possible opportunity at what would constitute a main base. Thereafter,
proceeding westward, it was hoped that a second and a third party,
consisting of six and eight men respectively, would be successively
established on the continent at considerable distances apart. Of course
we were well aware of the difficulties of landing even one party, but,
as division of our forces would under normal conditions secure
more scientific data, it was deemed advisable to be prepared for
exceptionally favourable circumstances.
Macquarie Island, a busy station in the days of the early sealers,
had become almost neglected. Little accurate information was to be had
regarding it, and no reliable map existed. A few isolated facts had been
gathered of its geology, and the anomalous fauna and flora sui generis
had been but partially described. Its position, eight hundred and
fifty miles south-south-east of Hobart, gave promise of valuable
meteorological data relative to the atmospheric circulation of the
Southern Hemisphere and of vital interest to the shipping of Australia
and New Zealand.
As to the Antarctic sphere of work, it has been seen that very little
was known of the vast region which was our goal. It is sufficient to say
that almost every observation would be fresh material added to the sum
of human knowledge.
In addition to the work to be conducted from the land bases, it was
intended that oceanographic investigations should be carried on by
the 'Aurora' as far as funds would allow. With this object in view,
provision was made for the necessary apparatus which would enable the
ship's party to make extensive investigations of the ocean and its floor
over the broad belt between Australia and the Antarctic Continent. This
was an important branch of study, for science is just as much interested
in the greatest depths of the ocean as with the corresponding elevations
of the land. Indeed, at the present day, the former is perhaps the
greater field.
The scope of our intentions was regarded by some as over-ambitious, but
knowing
How far high failure overleaps the bound
Of low successes,
and seeing nothing impossible in these arrangements, we continued to
adhere to them as closely as possible, with what fortune remains to be
told.
To secure a suitable vessel was a matter of fundamental importance.
There was no question of having a ship built to our design, for the
requisite expenditure might well have exceeded the whole cost of our
Expedition. Accordingly the best obtainable vessel was purchased, and
modified to fulfil our requirements. Such craft are not to be had in
southern waters; they are only to be found engaged in Arctic whaling and
sealing.
The primary consideration in the design of a vessel built to navigate
amid the ice is that the hull be very staunch, capable of driving into
the pack and of resisting lateral pressure, if the ice should close in
around it.
So a thick-walled timber vessel, with adequate stiffening in the
framework, would meet the case. The construction being of wood imparts
a certain elasticity, which is of great advantage in easing the shock
of impacts with floating ice. As has been tragically illustrated in a
recent disaster, the ordinary steel ship would be ripped on its first
contact with the ice. Another device, to obviate the shock and to assist
in forging a way through the floe-ice, is to have the bow cut away below
the water-line. Thus, instead of presenting to the ice a vertical face,
which would immediately arrest the ship and possibly cause considerable
damage on account of the sudden stress of the blow, a sloping,
overhanging bow is adopted. This arrangement enables the bow to rise
over the impediment, with a gradual slackening of speed. The immense
weight put upon the ice crushes it and the ship settles down, moving
ahead and gathering speed to meet the next obstacle.
[TEXT ILLUSTRATION]
Plan and Section of S.Y. 'Aurora'
Of importance second only to a strong hull is the possession of sails in
addition to engines. The latter are a sine qua non in polar navigation,
whilst sails allow of economy in the consumption of coal, and always
remain as a last resort should the coal-supply be exhausted or the
propeller damaged.
The 'Aurora', of the Newfoundland sealing fleet, was ultimately
purchased and underwent necessary alterations. She was built in Dundee
in 1876, but though by no means young was still in good condition and
capable of buffeting with the pack for many a year. Also, she was not
without a history, for in the earlier days she was amongst those vessels
which hurried to the relief of the unfortunate Greely expedition.
The hull was made of stout oak planks, sheathed with greenheart and
lined with fir. The bow, fashioned on cutaway lines, was a mass of solid
wood, armoured with steel plates. The heavy side-frames were braced and
stiffened by two tiers of horizontal oak beams, upon which were built
the 'tween decks and the main deck. Three bulkheads isolated the
fore-peak, the main hold, the engine-room and the after living-quarters
respectively.
A hull of such strength would resist a heavy strain, and, should it
be subjected to lateral pressure, would in all probability rise out of
harm's way. However, to be quite certain of this and to ensure safety
in the most extreme case it is necessary that the hull be modelled after
the design adopted by Nansen in the 'Fram'.
The principal dimensions were, length one hundred and sixty-five feet,
breadth thirty feet, and depth eighteen feet.
The registered tonnage was three hundred and eighty-six, but the actual
carrying capacity we found to be about six hundred tons.
The engines, situated aft, were compound, supplied with steam from a
single boiler. The normal power registered was ninety-eight horse-power,
working a four-bladed propeller, driving it at the rate of sixty or
seventy revolutions per minute (six to ten knots per hour).
Steam was also laid on to a winch, aft, for handling cargo in the main
hold, and to a forward steam-windlass. The latter was mainly used for
raising the anchor and manipulating the deep-sea dredging-cable.
The ship was square on the foremast and schooner-rigged on the main and
mizen masts.
Between the engine-room bulkhead and the chain and sail locker was a
spacious hold. Six large steel tanks built into the bottom of the hold
served for the storage of fresh water and at any time when empty could
be filled with seawater, offering a ready means of securing emergency
ballast.
On the deck, just forward of the main hatch, was a deckhouse, comprising
cook's galley, steward's pantry and two laboratories. Still farther
forward was a small lamp-room for the storage of kerosene, lamps and
other necessaries. A lofty fo'c'sle-head gave much accommodation for
carpenters', shipwrights' and other stores. Below it, a capacious
fo'c'sle served as quarters for a crew of sixteen men.
Aft, the chart-room, captain's cabin and photographic dark-room formed
a block leading up to the bridge, situated immediately in front of the
funnel. Farther aft, behind the engine-room and below the poop deck, was
the ward-room(,) a central space sixteen feet by eight feet, filled by
the dining-table and surrounded by cabins with bunks for twenty persons.
From the time the 'Aurora' arrived in London to her departure from
Australia, she was a scene of busy activity, as alterations and
replacements were necessary to fit her for future work.
In the meantime, stores and gear were being assembled. Purchases were
made and valuable donations received both in Europe and Australia.
Many and varied were the requirements, and some idea of their great
multiplicity will be gained by referring to the appendices dealing with
stores, clothing and instruments.
Finally, reference may be made in this chapter to the staff. In no
department can a leader spend time more profitably than in the selection
of the men who are to accomplish the work. Even when the expedition has
a scientific basis, academic distinction becomes secondary in the choice
of men. Fiala, as a result of his Arctic experience, truly says, "Many
a man who is a jolly good fellow in congenial surroundings will become
impatient, selfish and mean when obliged to sacrifice his comfort,
curb his desires and work hard in what seems a losing fight. The first
consideration in the choice of men for a polar campaign should be the
moral quality. Next should come mental and physical powers."
For polar work the great desideratum is tempered youth. Although one man
at the age of fifty may be as strong physically as another at the age
of twenty, it is certain that the exceptional man of fifty was also an
exceptional man at twenty. On the average, after about thirty years
of age, the elasticity of the body to rise to the strain of emergency
diminishes, and, when forty years is reached, a man, medically speaking,
reaches his acme. After that, degeneration of the fabric of the
body slowly and maybe imperceptibly sets in. As the difficulties of
exploration in cold regions approximate to the limit of human endurance
and often enough exceed it, it is obvious that the above generalizations
must receive due weight.
But though age and with it the whole question of physical fitness must
ever receive primary regard, yet these alone in no wise fit a man for
such an undertaking. The qualifications of mental ability, acquaintance
with the work and sound moral quality have to be essentially borne in
mind. The man of fifty might then be placed on a higher plane than his
younger companion.
With regard to alcohol and tobacco, it may be maintained on theoretical
grounds that a man is better without them, but, on the other hand,
his behaviour in respect to such habits is often an index to his
self-control.
Perfection is attained when every man individually works with the
determination to sacrifice all personal predispositions to the welfare
of the whole.
Ours proved to be a very happy selection. The majority of the men chosen
as members of the land parties were young graduates of the Commonwealth
and New Zealand Universities, and almost all were representative of
Australasia. Among the exceptions was Mr. Frank Wild, who was appointed
leader of one of the Antarctic parties. Wild had distinguished himself
in the South on two previous occasions, and now is in the unique
position of being, as it were, the oldest resident of Antarctica. Our
sojourn together at Cape Royds with Shackleton had acquainted me with
Wild's high merits as an explorer and leader.
Lieutenant B. E. S. Ninnis of the Royal Fusiliers, Dr. X. Mertz, an
expert ski-runner and mountaineer, and Mr. F. H. Bickerton in charge of
the air-tractor sledge, were appointed in London. Reference has already
been made to Captain Davis: to him were left all arrangements regarding
the ship's complement.
A "Who's who" of the staff appears as an appendix.
CHAPTER II THE LAST DAYS AT HOBART AND THE VOYAGE TO MACQUARIE ISLAND
"Let us probe the silent places, let us seek what luck betide us;
Let us journey to a lonely land I know.
There's a whisper on the night-wind, there's a star agleam to
guide us.
And the Wild is calling, calling--Let us go."--SERVICE.
It will be convenient to pick up the thread of our story upon the point
of the arrival of the 'Aurora' in Hobart, after her long voyage from
London during the latter part of the year 1911.
Captain Davis had written from Cape Town stating that he expected to
reach Hobart on November 4. In company with Mr. C. C. Eitel, secretary
of the Expedition, I proceeded to Hobart, arriving on November 2.
Early in the morning of November 4 the Harbour Board received news that
a wooden vessel, barquentine-rigged, with a crow's-nest on the mainmast,
was steaming up the D'Entrecasteaux Channel. This left no doubt as
to her identity and so, later in the day, we joined Mr. Martelli, the
assistant harbour-master, and proceeded down the river, meeting the
'Aurora' below the quarantine ground.
We heard that they had had a very rough passage after leaving the Cape.
This was expected, for several liners, travelling by the same route,
and arriving in Australian waters a few days before, had reported
exceptionally heavy weather.
Before the ship had reached Queen's Wharf, the berth generously provided
by the Harbour Board, the Greenland dogs were transferred to the
quarantine ground, and with them went Dr. Mertz and Lieutenant Ninnis,
who gave up all their time during the stay in Hobart to the care of
those important animals. A feeling of relief spread over the whole
ship's company as the last dog passed over the side, for travelling
with a deck cargo of dogs is not the most enviable thing from a sailor's
point of view. Especially is this the case in a sailing-vessel
where room is limited, and consequently dogs and ropes are mixed
indiscriminately.
Evening was just coming on when we reached the wharf, and, as we ranged
alongside, the Premier, Sir Elliot Lewis, came on board and bade us
welcome to Tasmania.
Captain Davis had much to tell, for more than four months had elapsed
since my departure from London, when he had been left in charge of the
ship and of the final arrangements.
At the docks there had been delays and difficulties in the execution of
the necessary alterations to the ship, in consequence of strikes and the
Coronation festivities. It was so urgent to reach Australia in time for
the ensuing Antarctic summer, that the recaulking of the decks and
other improvements were postponed, to be executed on the voyage or upon
arrival in Australia.
Captain Davis seized the earliest possible opportunity of departure, and
the 'Aurora' dropped down the Thames at midnight on July 27, 1911. As
she threaded her way through the crowded traffic by the dim light of a
thousand flickering flames gleaming through the foggy atmosphere, the
dogs entered a protest peculiar to their "husky" kind. After a short
preliminary excursion through a considerable range of the scale, they
picked up a note apparently suitable to all and settled down to many
hours of incessant and monotonous howling, as is the custom of these
dogs when the fit takes them. It was quite evident that they were not
looking forward to another sea voyage. The pandemonium made it all
but impossible to hear the orders given for working the ship, and a
collision was narrowly averted. During those rare lulls, when the dogs'
repertoire temporarily gave out, innumerable sailors on neighbouring
craft, wakened from their sleep, made the most of such opportunities to
hurl imprecations in a thoroughly nautical fashion upon the ship, her
officers, and each and every one of the crew.
On the way to Cardiff, where a full supply of coal was to be shipped, a
gale was encountered, and much water came on board, resulting in damage
to the stores. Some water leaked into the living quarters and, on the
whole, several very uncomfortable days were spent. Such inconvenience
at the outset undoubtedly did good, for many of the crew, evidently not
prepared for emergency conditions, left at Cardiff. The scratch crew
with which the 'Aurora'journeyed to Hobart composed for the most part of
replacements made at Cardiff, resulted in some permanent appointments of
unexpected value to the Expedition.
At Cardiff the coal strike caused delay, but eventually some five
hundred tons of the Crown Fuel Company's briquettes were got on board,
and a final leave taken of English shores on August 4.
Cape Town, the only intermediate port of call, was reached on September
24, after a comparatively rapid and uneventful voyage. A couple of days
sufficed to load coal, water and fresh provisions, and the course was
then laid for Hobart.
Rough weather soon intervened, and Lieutenant Ninnis and Dr. Mertz, who
travelled out by the 'Aurora' in charge of the sledging-dogs, had their
time fully occupied, for the wet conditions began to tell on their
charges.
On leaving London there were forty-nine of these Greenland, Esquimaux
sledging-dogs of which the purchase and selection had been made through
the offices of the Danish Geographical Society. From Greenland they
were taken to Copenhagen, and from thence transhipped to London, where
Messrs. Spratt took charge of them at their dog-farm until the date of
departure. During the voyage they were fed on the finest dog-cakes, but
they undoubtedly felt the need of fresh meat and fish to withstand the
cold and wet. In the rough weather of the latter part of the voyage
water broke continually over the deck, so lowering their vitality that a
number died from seizures, not properly understood at the time. In each
case death was sudden, and preceded by similar symptoms. An apparently
healthy dog would drop down in a fit, dying in a few minutes, or
during another fit within a few days. Epidemics, accompanied by similar
symptoms, are said to be common amongst these dogs in the Arctic
regions, but no explanation is given as to the nature of the disease.
During a later stage of the Expedition, when nearing Antarctica, several
more of the dogs were similarly stricken. These were examined by Drs.
McLean and Jones, and the results of post-mortems showed that in one
case death was due to gangrenous appendicitis, in two others to acute
gastritis and colitis.
The dog first affected caused some consternation amongst the crew, for,
after being prostrated on the deck by a fit, it rose and rushed about
snapping to right and left. The cry of "mad dog" was raised. Not
many seconds had elapsed before all the deck hands were safely in the
rigging, displaying more than ordinary agility in the act. At short
intervals, other men, roused from watch below appeared at the fo'c'sle
companion-way. To these the situation at first appeared comic, and
called forth jeers upon their faint-hearted shipmates. The next moment,
on the dog dashing into view, they found a common cause with their
fellows and sprang aloft. Ere many minutes had elapsed the entire crew
were in the rigging, much to the amusement of the officers. By this time
the dog had disappeared beneath the fo'c'sle head, and Mertz and Ninnis
entered, intending to dispatch it. A shot was fired and word passed that
the deed was done: thereupon the crew descended, pressing forward to
share in the laurels. Then it was that Ninnis, in the uncertain light,
spying a dog of similar markings wedged in between some barrels, was
filled with doubt and called out to Mertz that he had shot the wrong
dog. In a flash the crew had once more climbed to safety. It was some
time after the confirmation of the first execution that they could be
prevailed upon to descend.
Several litters of puppies were born on the voyage, but all except one
succumbed to the hardships of the passage.
The voyage from Cardiff to Hobart occupied eighty-eight days.
The date of departure south was fixed for 4 P.M. of Saturday, December
2, and a truly appalling amount of work had to be done before then.
Most of the staff had been preparing themselves for special duties; in
this the Expedition was assisted by many friends.
A complete, detailed acknowledgment of all the kind help received would
occupy much space. We must needs pass on with the assurance that our
best thanks are extended to one and all.
Throughout the month of November, the staff continued to arrive in
contingents at Hobart, immediately busying themselves in their own
departments, and in sorting over the many thousands of packages in the
great Queen's Wharf shed. Wild was placed in charge, and all entered
heartily into the work. The exertion of it was just what was wanted to
make us fit, and prepared for the sudden and arduous work of discharging
cargo at the various bases. It also gave the opportunity of personally
gauging certain qualities of the men, which are not usually evoked by a
university curriculum.
Some five thousand two hundred packages were in the shed, to be sorted
over and checked. The requirements of three Antarctic bases, and one
at Macquarie Island were being provided for, and consequently the most
careful supervision was necessary to prevent mistakes, especially as the
omission of a single article might fundamentally affect the work of a
whole party. To assist in discriminating the impedimenta, coloured bands
were painted round the packages, distinctive of the various bases.
It had been arranged that, wherever possible, everything should
be packed in cases of a handy size, to facilitate unloading and
transportation; each about fifty to seventy pounds in weight.
In addition to other distinguishing marks, every package bore a
different number, and the detailed contents were listed in a schedule
for reference.
Concurrently with the progress of this work, the ship was again
overhauled, repairs effected, and many deficiencies made good. The
labours of the shipwrights did not interfere with the loading, which
went ahead steadily during the last fortnight in November.
The tanks in the hold not used for our supply of fresh water were packed
with reserve stores for the ship. The remainder of the lower hold and
the bunkers were filled with coal. Slowly the contents of the shed
diminished as they were transfered to the 'tween decks. Then came the
overflow. Eventually, every available space in the ship was flooded
with a complicated assemblage of gear, ranging from the comparatively
undamageable wireless masts occupying a portion of the deck amidships,
to a selection of prime Australian cheeses which filled one of the
cabins, and pervaded the ward-room with an odour which remained one of
its permanent associations.
Yet, heterogeneous and ill-assorted as our cargo may have appeared to
the crowds of curious onlookers, Captain Davis had arranged for the
stowage of everything with a nicety which did him credit. The complete
effects of the four bases were thus kept separate, and available in
whatever order was required. Furthermore, the removal of one unit would
not break the stowage of the remainder, nor disturb the trim of the
ship.
At a late date the air-tractor sledge arrived. The body was contained in
one huge case which, though awkward, was comparatively light, the case
weighing much more than the contents. This was securely lashed above the
maindeck, resting on the fo'c'sle and two boat-skids.
As erroneous ideas have been circulated regarding the "aeroplane
sledge," or more correctly "air-tractor sledge," a few words in
explanation will not be out of place.
This machine was originally an R.E.P. monoplane, constructed by Messrs.
Vickers and Co., but supplied with a special detachable, sledge-runner
undercarriage for use in the Antarctic, converting it into a tractor for
hauling sledges. It was intended that so far as its role as a flier
was concerned, it would be chiefly exercised for the purpose of drawing
public attention to the Expedition in Australia, where aviation was then
almost unknown. With this object in view, it arrived in Adelaide at an
early date accompanied by the aviator, Lieutenant Watkins, assisted by
Bickerton. There it unfortunately came to grief, and Watkins and Wild
narrowly escaped death in the accident. It was then decided to make no
attempt to fly in the Antarctic; the wings were left in Australia and
Lieutenant Watkins returned to England. In the meantime, the machine was
repaired and forwarded to Hobart.
Air-tractors are great consumers of petrol of the highest quality. This
demand, in addition to the requirements of two wireless plants and a
motor-launch, made it necessary to take larger quantities than we liked
of this dangerous cargo. Four thousand gallons of "Shell" benzine and
one thousand three hundred gallons of "Shell" kerosene, packed in
the usual four-gallon export tins, were carried as a deck cargo,
monopolizing the whole of the poop-deck.
For the transport of the requirements of the Macquarie Island Base,
the s.s. 'Toroa', a small steam-packet of one hundred and twenty tons,
trading between Melbourne and Tasmanian ports, was chartered. It was
arranged that this auxiliary should leave Hobart several days after the
'Aurora', so as to allow us time, before her arrival, to inspect the
island, and to select a suitable spot for the location of the base. As
she was well provided with passenger accommodation, it was arranged that
the majority of the land party should journey by her as far as Macquarie
Island.
The Governor of Tasmania, Sir Harry Barron, the Premier, Sir Elliot
Lewis, and the citizens of Hobart extended to us the greatest
hospitality during our stay, and, when the time came, gave us a hearty
send-off.
Saturday, December 2 arrived, and final preparations were made. All the
staff were united for the space of an hour at luncheon. Then began the
final leave-taking. "God speed" messages were received from far and
wide, and intercessory services were held in the Cathedrals of Sydney
and Hobart.
We were greatly honoured at this time by the reception of kind wishes
from Queen Alexandra and, at an earlier date, from his Majesty the King.
Proud of such universal sympathy and interest, we felt stimulated to
greater exertions.
On arrival on board, I found Mr. Martelli, who was to pilot us down the
river, already on the bridge. A vast crowd blockaded the wharf to give
us a parting cheer.
At 4 P.M. sharp, the telegraph was rung for the engines, and, with a
final expression of good wishes from the Governor and Lady Barron, we
glided out into the channel, where our supply of dynamite and cartridges
was taken on board. Captain G. S. Nares, whose kindness we had
previously known, had the H.M.S. 'Fantome' dressed in our honour, and
lusty cheering reached us from across the water.
As we proceeded down the river to the Quarantine Station where the dogs
were to be taken off, Hobart looked its best, with the glancing sails of
pleasure craft skimming near the foreshores, and backed by the stately,
sombre mass of Mount Wellington. The "land of strawberries and cream",
as the younger members of the Expedition had come to regard it, was for
ever to live pleasantly in our memories, to be recalled a thousand times
during the adventurous months which followed. Mr. E. Joyce, whose name
is familiar in connexion with previous Antarctic expeditions, and who
had travelled out from London on business of the Expedition, was waiting
in mid-stream with thirty-eight dogs, delivering them from a ketch.
These were passed over the side and secured at intervals on top of the
deck cargo.
The engines again began to throb, not to cease until the arrival at
Macquarie Island. A few miles lower down the channel, the Premier, and
a number of other friends and well-wishers who had followed in a small
steamer, bade us a final adieu.
Behind lay a sparkling seascape and the Tasmanian littoral; before,
the blue southern ocean heaving with an ominous swell. A glance at the
barograph showed a continuous fall, and a telegram from Mr. Hunt, Head
of the Commonwealth Weather Bureau, received a few hours previously,
informed us of a storm-centre south of New Zealand, and the expectation
of fresh south-westerly winds.
The piles of loose gear presented an indescribable scene of chaos, and,
even as we rolled lazily in the increasing swell, the water commenced
to run about the decks. There was no time to be lost in securing movable
articles and preparing the ship for heavy weather. All hands set to
work.
On the main deck the cargo was brought up flush with the top of the
bulwarks, and consisted of the wireless masts, two huts, a large
motor-launch, cases of dog biscuits and many other sundries. Butter to
the extent of a couple of tons was accommodated chiefly on the roof of
the main deck-house, where it was out of the way of the dogs. The roof
of the chart-house, which formed an extension of the bridge proper,
did not escape, for the railing offered facilities for lashing sledges;
besides, there was room for tide-gauges, meteorological screens, and
cases of fresh eggs and apples. Somebody happened to think of space
unoccupied in the meteorological screens, and a few fowls were housed
therein.
On the poop-deck there were the benzine, sledges, and the chief magnetic
observatory. An agglomeration of instruments and private gear rendered
the ward-room well nigh impossible of access, and it was some days
before everything was jammed away into corners. An unoccupied five-berth
cabin was filled with loose instruments, while other packages were
stowed into the occupied cabins, so as to almost defeat the purpose for
which they were intended.
The deck was so encumbered that only at rare intervals was it visible.
However, by our united efforts everything was well secured by 8 P.M.
It was dusk, and the distant highlands were limned in silhouette against
the twilight sky. A tiny, sparkling lamp glimmered from Signal Hill its
warm farewell. From the swaying poop we flashed back, "Good-bye, all
snug on board."
Onward with a dogged plunge our laden ship would press. If 'Fram' were
"Forward," _she_ was to be hereafter our 'Aurora' of "Hope"--the Dawn of
undiscovered lands.
Home and the past were effaced in the shroud of darkness, and thought
leapt to the beckoning South--the "land of the midnight sun."
During the night the wind and sea rose steadily, developing into a full
gale. In order to make Macquarie Island, it was important not to allow
the ship to drive too far to the east, as at all times the prevailing
winds in this region are from the west. Partly on this account, and
partly because of the extreme severity of the gale, the ship was hove
to with head to wind, wallowing in mountainous seas. Such a storm,
witnessed from a large vessel, would be an inspiring sight, but was
doubly so in a small craft, especially where the natural buoyancy had
been largely impaired by overloading. With an unprecedented quantity of
deck cargo, amongst which were six thousand gallons of benzine, kerosene
and spirit, in tins which were none too strong, we might well have been
excused a lively anxiety during those days. It seemed as if no power on
earth could save the loss of at least part of the deck cargo. Would it
be the indispensable huts amidships, or would a sea break on the benzine
aft and flood us with inflammable liquid and gas?
By dint of strenuous efforts and good seamanship, Captain Davis with
his officers and crew held their own. The land parties assisted in the
general work, constantly tightening up the lashings and lending "beef,"
a sailor's term for man-power, wherever required. For this purpose the
members of the land parties were divided into watches, so that there
were always a number patrolling the decks.
Most of us passed through a stage of sea-sickness, but, except in the
case of two or three, it soon passed off. Seas deluged all parts of the
ship. A quantity of ashes was carried down into the bilge-water pump and
obstructed the steam-pump. Whilst this was being cleared, the emergency
deck pumps had to be requisitioned. The latter were available for
working either by hand-power or by chain-gearing from the after-winch.
The deck-plug of one of the fresh-water tanks was carried away and,
before it was noticed, sea-water had entered to such an extent as to
render our supply unfit for drinking. Thus we were, henceforth, on a
strictly limited water ration.
The wind increased from bad to worse, and great seas continued to rise
until their culmination on the morning of December 5, when one came
aboard on the starboard quarter, smashed half the bridge and carried
it away. Toucher was the officer on watch, and no doubt thought himself
lucky in being, at the time, on the other half of the bridge.
The deck-rings holding the motor-launch drew, the launch itself was
sprung and its decking stove-in.
On the morning of December 8 we found ourselves in latitude 49 degrees
56 minutes S. and longitude 152 degrees 28' E., with the weather so far
abated that we were able to steer a course for Macquarie Island.
During the heavy weather, food had been prepared only with the greatest
difficulty. The galley was deluged time and again. It was enough to
dishearten any cook, repeatedly finding himself amongst kitchen debris
of all kinds, including pots and pans full and empty. Nor did the
difficulties end in the galley, for food which survived until its
arrival on the table, though not allowed much time for further mishap,
often ended in a disagreeable mass on the floor or, tossed by a lurch
of more than usual suddenness, entered an adjoining cabin. From such
localities the elusive piece de resistance was often rescued.
As we approached our rendezvous, whale-birds** appeared. During the
heavy weather, Mother Carey's chickens only were seen, but, as the wind
abated, the majestic wandering albatross, the sooty albatross and the
mollymawk followed in our wake.
** For the specific names refer to Appendix which is a glossary of
special and unfamiliar terms.
Whales were observed spouting, but at too great a distance to be
definitely recognized.
At daybreak on December 11 land began to show up, and by 6 A.M. we were
some sixteen miles off the west coast of Macquarie Island, bearing on
about the centre of its length.
In general shape it is long and narrow, the length over all being
twenty-one miles. A reef runs out for several miles at both extremities
of the main island, reappearing again some miles beyond in isolated
rocky islets: the Bishop and Clerk nineteen miles to the southward and
the Judge and Clerk eight miles to the north.
The land everywhere rises abruptly from the sea or from an exaggerated
beach to an undulating plateau-like interior, reaching a maximum
elevation of one thousand four hundred and twenty-five feet. Nowhere
is there a harbour in the proper sense of the word, though six or seven
anchorages are recognized.
The island is situated in about 55 degrees S. latitude, and the climate
is comparatively cold, but it is the prevalence of strong winds that is
the least desirable feature of its weather.
Sealing, so prosperous in the early days, is now carried on in a small
way only, by a New Zealander, who keeps a few men stationed at the
island during part of the year for the purpose of rendering down sea
elephant and penguin blubber. Their establishment was known to be at the
north end of the island near the best of the anchorages.
Captain Davis had visited the island in the 'Nimrod', and was acquainted
with the three anchorages, which are all on the east side and sheltered
from the prevailing westerlies. One of the old-time sealers had reported
a cove suitable for small craft at the south-western corner, but the
information was scanty, and recent mariners had avoided that side of
the island. On the morning of our approach the breeze was from the
south-east, and, being favourable, Captain Davis proposed a visit.
By noon, Caroline Cove, as it is called, was abreast of us. Its small
dimensions, and the fact that a rocky islet for the most part blocks the
entrance, at first caused some misgivings as to its identity.
A boat was lowered, and a party of us rowed in towards the entrance,
sounding at intervals to ascertain whether the 'Aurora' could make use
of it, should our inspection prove it a suitable locality for the land
station.
We passed through a channel not more than eighty yards wide, but with
deep water almost to the rocks on either side. A beautiful inlet now
opened to view. Thick tussock-grass matted the steep hillsides, and the
rocky shores, between the tide-marks as well as in the depths below,
sprouted with a profuse growth of brown kelp. Leaping out of the water
in scores around us were penguins of several varieties, in their actions
reminding us of nothing so much as shoals of fish chased by sharks.
Penguins were in thousands on the uprising cliffs, and from rookeries
near and far came an incessant din. At intervals along the shore sea
elephants disported their ungainly masses in the sunlight. Circling
above us in anxious haste, sea-birds of many varieties gave warning
of our near approach to their nests. It was the invasion by man of an
exquisite scene of primitive nature.
[TEXT ILLUSTRATION]
Macquarie Island
After the severe weather experienced, the relaxation made us all feel
like a band of schoolboys out on a long vacation.
A small sandy beach barred the inlet, and the whaleboat was directed
towards it. We were soon grating on the sand amidst an army of Royal
penguins; picturesque little fellows, with a crest and eyebrows of
long golden-yellow feathers. A few yards from the massed ranks of the
penguins was a mottled sea-leopard, which woke up and slid into the sea
as we approached.
Several hours were spent examining the neighbourhood. Webb and Kennedy
took a set of magnetic observations, while others hoisted some cases of
stores on to a rocky knob to form a provision depot, as it was quickly
decided that the northern end of the island was likely to be more
suitable for a permanent station.
The Royal penguins were almost as petulant as the Adelie penguins which
we were to meet further South. They surrounded us, pecked at our
legs and chattered with an audacity which defies description. It was
discovered that they resented any attempt to drive them into the sea,
and it was only after long persuasion that a bevy took to the water.
This was a sign of a general capitulation, and some hundreds immediately
followed, jostling each other in their haste, squawking, whirring their
flippers, splashing and churning the water, reminding one of a crowd of
miniature surf-bathers. We followed the files of birds marching inland,
along the course of a tumbling stream, until at an elevation of some
five hundred feet, on a flattish piece of ground, a huge rookery opened
out--acres and acres of birds and eggs.
In one corner of the bay were nests of giant petrels in which sat
huge downy young, about the size of a barn-door fowl, resembling
the grotesque, fluffy toys which might be expected to hang on a
Christmas-tree.
Here and there on the beach and on the grass wandered bright-coloured
Maori hens. On the south side of the bay, in a low, peaty area overgrown
with tussock-grass, were scores of sea elephants, wallowing in bog-holes
or sleeping at their ease.
Sea elephants, at one time found in immense numbers on all sub-antarctic
islands, are now comparatively rare, even to the degree of extinction,
in many of their old haunts. This is the result of ruthless slaughter
prosecuted especially bY sealers in the early days. At the present time
Macquarie Island is more favoured by them than probably any other known
locality. The name by which they are popularly known refers to their
elephantine proportions and to the fact that, in the case of the old
males, the nasal regions are enormously developed, expanding when in
a state of excitement to form a short, trunk-like appendage. They have
been recorded up to twenty feet in length, and such a specimen would
weigh about four tons.
Arriving on the 'Aurora' in the evening, we learnt that the ship's
company had had an adventure which might have been most serious. It
appeared that after dropping us at the entrance to Caroline Cove,
the ship was allowed to drift out to sea under the influence of the
off-shore wind. When about one-third of a mile north-west of the
entrance, a violent shock was felt, and she slid over a rock which rose
up out of deep water to within about fourteen feet of high-water level;
no sign of it appearing on the surface on account of the tranquil state
of the sea. Much apprehension was felt for the hull, but as no serious
leak started, the escape was considered a fortunate one. A few soundings
had been made proving a depth of four hundred fathoms within one and a
half miles of the land.
A course was now set for the northern end of the island.
Dangerous-looking reefs ran out from many headlands, and cascades of
water could be seen falling hundreds of feet from the highlands to the
narrow coastal flats.
The anchorage most used is that known as North-East Bay, lying on the
eastern side of a low spit joining the main mass of the island, to an
almost isolated outpost in the form of a flat-topped hill--Wireless
Hill--some three-quarters of a mile farther north. It is practically an
open roadstead, but, as the prevailing winds blow on to the other side
of the island, quiet water can be nearly always expected.
However, when we arrived at North-East Bay on the morning following our
adventure; a stiff south-east breeze was blowing, and the wash on the
beach put landing out of the question. Captain Davis ran in as near
the coast as he could safely venture and dropped anchor, pending the
moderation of the wind.
On the leeward slopes of a low ridge, pushing itself out on to the
southern extremity of the spit, could be seen two small huts, but
no sign of human life. This was not surprising as it was only seven
o'clock. Below the huts, upon low surf-covered rocks running out from
the beach, lay a small schooner partly broken up and evidently a recent
victim. A mile to the southward, fragments of another wreck protruded
from the sand.
We were discussing wrecks and the grisly toll which is levied by these
dangerous and uncharted shores, when a human figure appeared in front of
one of the huts. After surveying us for a moment, he disappeared within
to reappear shortly afterwards, followed by a stream of others rushing
hither and thither; just as if he had disturbed a hornets' nest. After
such an exciting demonstration we awaited the next move with some
expectancy.
Planks and barrels were brought on to the beach and a flagstaff was
hoisted. Then one of the party mounted on the barrel, and told us by
flag signals that the ship on the beach was the 'Clyde', which had
recently been wrecked, and that all hands were safely on shore, but
requiring assistance. Besides the shipwrecked crew, there were half a
dozen men who resided on the island during the summer months for the
purpose of collecting blubber.
The sealers tried repeatedly to come out to us, but as often as it was
launched their boat was washed up again on the beach, capsizing them
into the water. At length they signalled that a landing could be made
on the opposite side of the spit, so the anchor was raised and the
ship steamed round the north end of the island, to what Captain Davis
proposed should be named Hasselborough Bay, in recognition of the
discoverer of the island. This proved an admirable anchorage, for the
wind remained from the east and south-east during the greater part of
our stay.
The sealers pushed their boat across the spit, and, launching it in
calmer water, came out to us, meeting the 'Aurora' some three miles off
the land. The anchor was let go about one mile and a half from the head
of the bay.
News was exchanged with the sealers. It appeared that there had been
much speculation as to what sort of a craft we were; visits of ships,
other than those sent down specially to convey their oil to New Zealand,
being practically unknown. For a while they suspected the 'Aurora' of
being an alien sealer, and had prepared to defend their rights to the
local fishery.
All was well now, however, and information and assistance were freely
volunteered. They were greatly relieved to hear that our auxiliary
vessel, the 'Toroa' was expected immediately, and would be available for
taking the ship-wrecked crew back to civilization.
Owing to the loss of the 'Clyde', a large shipment of oil in barrels lay
piled upon the beach with every prospect of destruction, just at a time
when the realization of its value would be most desirable, to make good
the loss sustained by the wreck. I decided, therefore, in view of their
hospitality, to make arrangements with the captain of the 'Toroa' to
take back a load of the oil, upon terms only sufficient to recoup us for
the extension of the charter.
In company with Ainsworth, Hannam and others, I went ashore to select
a site for the station. As strong westerly winds were to be expected
during the greater part of the year, it was necessary to erect
buildings in the lee of substantial break-winds. Several sites for a hut
convenient to a serviceable landing-place were inspected at the north
end of the beach. The hut was eventually erected in the lee of a large
mass of rock, rising out of the grass-covered sandy flat at the north
end of the spit.
It would have been much handier in every way, both in assembling the
engines and masts and subsequently in operating the wireless station,
had the wireless plant been erected on the beach adjacent to the
living-hut. On the other hand, a position on top of the hill had the
advantage of a free outlook and of increased electrical potential,
allowing of a shorter length of mast. In addition the ground in this
situation proved to be peaty and sodden, and therefore a good conductor,
thus presenting an excellent "earth" from the wireless standpoint. In
short, the advantages of the hill-site outweighed its disadvantages.
Of the latter the most obvious was the difficult transportation of
the heavy masts, petrol-engine, dynamo, induction-generator and other
miscellaneous gear, from the beach to the summit--a vertical height of
three hundred feet.
To facilitate this latter work the sealers placed at our disposal a
"flying fox" which ran from sea-level to the top of Wireless Hill, and
which they had erected for the carriage of blubber. On inspecting it,
Wild reported that it was serviceable, but would first require to be
strengthened. He immediately set about effecting this with the help of a
party.
Hurley now discovered that he had accidentally left one of his
cinematograph lenses on a rock where he had been working in Caroline
Cove. As it was indispensable, and there was little prospect of the
weather allowing of another visit by the ship, it was decided that
he should go on a journey overland to recover it. One of the sealers,
Hutchinson by name, who had been to Caroline Cove and knew the best
route to take, kindly volunteered to accompany Hurley. The party was
eventually increased by the addition of Harrisson, who was to keep a
look-out for matters of biological interest. They started off at noon on
December 13.
Although the greater part of the stores for the Macquarie Island party
were to arrive by the Toroa there were a few tons on board the 'Aurora'.
These and the dogs were landed as quickly as possible. How glad the poor
animals were to be once more on solid earth! It was out of the question
to let them loose, so they were tethered at intervals along a heavy
cable, anchored at both ends amongst the tussock-grass. Ninnis took up
his abode in the sealers' hut so that he might the better look after
their wants, which centred chiefly on sea elephant meat, and that in
large quantities. Webb joined Ninnis, as he intended to take full sets
of magnetic observations at several stations in the vicinity.
Bickerton and Gillies got the motor-launch into good working order,
and by means of it the rest of us conveyed ashore several tons of coal
briquettes, the benzine, kerosene, instruments and the wireless masts,
by noon on December 13.
Everything but the requirements of the wireless station was landed
on the spit, as near the north-east corner as the surf would allow.
Fortunately, reefs ran out from the shore at intervals, and calmer water
could be found in their lee. All gear for the wireless station was taken
to a spot about half a mile to the north-west at the foot of Wireless
Hill, where the "flying fox" was situated. Just at that spot there was
a landing-place at the head of a charming little boat harbour, formed by
numerous kelp-covered rocky reefs rising at intervals above the level of
high water. These broke the swell, so that in most weathers calm water
was assured at the landing-place.
This boat harbour was a fascinating spot. The western side was peopled
by a rookery of blue-eyed cormorants; scattered nests of white gulls
relieved the sombre appearance of the reefs on the opposite side: whilst
gentoo penguins in numbers were busy hatching their eggs on the sloping
ground beyond. Skua-gulls and giant petrels were perched here and there
amongst the rocks, watching for an opportunity of marauding the nests of
the non-predacious birds. Sea elephants raised their massive, dripping
heads in shoal and channel. The dark reefs, running out into the
pellucid water, supported a vast growth of a snake-like form of kelp,
whose octopus-like tentacles, many yards in length, writhed yellow
and brown to the swing of the surge, and gave the foreground an
indescribable weirdness. I stood looking out to sea from here one
evening, soon after sunset, the launch lazily rolling in the swell, and
the 'Aurora' in the offing, while the rich tints of the afterglow paled
in the south-west.
I envied Wild and his party, whose occupation in connexion with the
"flying fox" kept them permanently camped at this spot.
The 'Toroa' made her appearance on the afternoon of December 13, and
came to anchor about half a mile inside the 'Aurora'. Her departure had
been delayed by the bad weather. Leaving Hobart late on December 7, she
had anchored off Bruni Island awaiting the moderation of the sea. The
journey was resumed on the morning of the 9th, and the passage made in
fine weather. She proved a handy craft for work of the kind, and Captain
Holliman, the master, was well used to the dangers of uncharted coastal
waters.
Within a few minutes of her arrival, a five-ton motor-boat of shallow
draught was launched and unloading commenced.
Those of the staff arriving by the 'Toroa' were housed ashore with the
sealers, as, when everybody was on board, the 'Aurora' was uncomfortably
congested. Fifty sheep were taken on shore to feed on the rank grass
until our departure. A large part of the cargo consisted of coal for the
'Aurora'. This was already partly bagged, and in that form was loaded
into the launches and whale-boats; the former towing the latter to their
destination. Thus a continuous stream of coal and stores was passing
from ship to ship, and from the ships to the several landing-places on
shore. As soon as the after-hold on the 'Toroa' was cleared, barrels
of sea elephant oil were brought off in rafts and loaded aft,
simultaneously with the unloading forward.
We kept at the work as long as possible--about sixteen hours a day
including a short interval for lunch. There were twenty-five of the
land party available for general work, and with some assistance from the
ship's crew the work went forward at a rapid rate.
On the morning of the 15th, after giving final instructions to Eitel,
who had come thus far and was returning as arranged, the 'Toroa' weighed
anchor and we parted with a cheer.
The transportation of the wireless equipment to the top of the hill
had been going on simultaneously with the un-loading of the ships. Now,
however, all were able to concentrate upon it, and the work went forward
very rapidly.
All the wireless instruments, and much of the other paraphernalia of
the Macquarie Island party had been packed in the barrels, as it was
expected that they would have to be rafted ashore through the surf.
Fortunately, the weather continued to "hold" from an easterly direction,
and everything was able to be landed in the comparatively calm waters
of Hasselborough Bay; a circumstance which the islanders assured us was
quite a rare thing. The wireless masts were rafted ashore. These were of
oregon pine, each composed of four sections.
Digging the pits for bedding the heavy, wooden "dead men," and erecting
the wireless masts, the engine-hut and the operating-hut provided
plenty of work for all. Here was as busy a scene as one could witness
anywhere--some with the picks and shovels, others with hammers and
nails, sailors splicing ropes and fitting masts, and a stream of men
hauling the loads up from the sea-shore to their destination on the
summit.
Some details of the working of the "flying fox" will be of interest. The
distance between the lower and upper terminals was some eight hundred
feet. This was spanned by two steel-wire carrying cables, secured above
by "dead men" sunk in the soil, and below by a turn around a huge rock
which outcropped amongst the tussock-grass on the flat, some fifty yards
from the head of the boat harbour. For hauling up the loads, a thin wire
line, with a pulley-block at either extremity, rolling one on each of
the carrying wires, passed round a snatch-block at the upper station. It
was of such a length that when the loading end was at the lower station,
the counterpoise end was in position to descend at the other. Thus a
freight was dispatched to the top of the hill by filling a bag, acting
as counterpoise, with earth, until slightly in excess of the weight of
the top load; then off it would start gathering speed as it went.
Several devices were developed for arresting the pace as the freight
neared the end of its journey, but accidents were always liable to occur
if the counterpoise were unduly loaded. Wild was injured by one of these
brake-devices, which consisted of a bar of iron lying on the ground
about thirty yards in front of the terminus, and attached by a rope with
a loose-running noose to the down-carrying wire. On the arrival of the
counterpoise at that point on the wire, its speed would be checked owing
to the drag exerted. On the occasion referred to, the rope was struck
with such velocity that the iron bar was jerked into the air and struck
Wild a solid blow on the thigh. Though incapacitated for a few days, he
continued to supervise at the lower terminal.
The larger sections of the wireless masts gave the greatest trouble,
as they were not only heavy but awkward. A special arrangement was
necessary for all loads exceeding one hundredweight, as the single
wire carrier-cables were not sufficiently strong. In such cases both
carrier-cables were lashed together making a single support, the hauling
being done by a straight pull on the top of the hill. The hauling was
carried out to the accompaniment of chanties, and these helped to
relieve the strain of the Work. It was a familiar sight to see a string
of twenty men on the hauling-line scaring the skua-gulls with popular
choruses like "A' roving" and "Ho, boys, pull her along." In calm
weather the parties at either terminal could communicate by shouting but
were much assisted by megaphones improvised from a pair of leggings.
Considering the heavy weights handled and the speed at which the work
was done, we were fortunate in suffering only one breakage, and that
might have been more serious than it proved. The mishap in question
occurred to the generator. In order to lighten the load, the rotor had
been taken out. When almost at the summit of the hill, the ascending
weight, causing the carrying-wires to sag unusually low, struck a rock,
unhitched the lashing and fell, striking the steep rubble slope, to
go bounding in great leaps out amongst the grass to the flat below.
Marvellous to relate, it was found to have suffered no damage other than
a double fracture of the end-plate casting, which could be repaired. And
so it was decided to exchange the generators in the two equipments, as
there would be greater facilities for engineering work at the Main Base,
Adelie Land. Fortunately, the other generator was almost at the top of
the ship's hold, and therefore accessible. The three pieces into which
the casting had been broken were found to be sprung, and would not
fit together. However, after our arrival at Adelie Land, Hannam
found, curiously enough, that the pieces fitted into place
perfectly--apparently an effect of contraction due to the cold--and with
the aid of a few plates and belts the generator was made as serviceable
as ever.
In the meantime, Hurley, Harrisson, and the sealer, Hutchinson, had
returned from their trip to Caroline Cove, after a most interesting
though arduous journey. They had camped the first evening at The
Nuggets, a rocky point on the east coast some four miles to the south of
North-East Bay. From The Nuggets, the trail struck inland up the
steep hillsides until the summit of the island was reached; then over
pebble-strewn, undulating ground with occasional small lakes, arriving
at the west coast near its southern extremity. Owing to rain and fog
they overshot the mark and had to spend the night close to a bay at the
south-end. There Hurley obtained some good photographs of sea elephants
and of the penguin rookeries.
The next morning, December 15, they set off again, this time finding
Caroline Cove without further difficulty. Harrisson remained on the brow
of the hill overlooking the cove, and there captured some prions and
their eggs. Hurley and his companion found the lost lens and returned to
Harrisson securing a fine albatross on the way. This solitary bird
was descried sitting on the hill side, several hundreds of feet above
sea-level. Its plumage was in such good condition that they could not
resist the impulse to secure it for our collection, for the moment not
considering the enormous weight to be carried. They had neither firearms
nor an Ancient Mariner's cross-bow, and no stones were to be had in the
vicinity--when the resourceful Hurley suddenly bethought himself of a
small tin of meat in his haversack, and, with a fortunate throw, hit the
bird on the head, killing the majestic creature on the spot.
Shouldering their prize, they trudged on to Lusitania Bay, camping there
that night in an old dilapidated hut; a remnant of the sealing days.
Close by there was known to be a large rookery of King penguins; a
variety of penguin with richly tinted plumage on the head and shoulders,
and next in size to the Emperor--the sovereign bird of the Antarctic
Regions. The breeding season was at its height, so Harrisson secured and
preserved a great number of their eggs. Hutchinson kindly volunteered
to carry the albatross in addition to his original load. If they had
skinned the bird, the weight would have been materially reduced, but
with the meagre appliances at hand, it would undoubtedly have been
spoiled as a specimen. Hurley, very ambitiously, had taken a heavy
camera, in addition to a blanket and other sundries. During the rough
and wet walking of the previous day, his boots had worn out and caused
him to twist a tendon in the right foot, so that he was not up to his
usual form, while Harrisson was hampered with a bulky cargo of eggs and
specimens.
Saddled with these heavy burdens, the party found the return journey
very laborious. Hurley's leg set the pace, and so, later in the day,
Harrisson decided to push on ahead in order to give us news, as they
had orders to be back as soon as possible and were then overdue. When
darkness came on, Harrisson was near The Nuggets, where he passed the
night amongst the tussock-grass. Hurley and Hutchinson, who were five
miles behind, also slept by the wayside. When dawn appeared, Harrisson
moved on, reaching the north-end huts at about 9 A.M. Mertz and Whetter
immediately set out and came to the relief of the other two men a few
hours later.
Fatigue and the lame leg subdued Hurley for the rest of the day, but the
next morning he was off to get pictures of the "flying fox" in action.
It was practically impossible for him to walk to the top of the hill,
but not to be baffled, he sent the cinematograph machine up by the
"flying fox," and then followed himself. Long before reaching the top
he realized how much his integrity depended on the strength of the
hauling-line and the care of those on Wireless Hill.
During the latter part of our stay at the island, the wind veered to the
north and north-north-east. We took advantage of this change to steam
round to the east side, intending to increase our supply of fresh water
at The Nuggets, where a stream comes down the hillside on to the beach.
In this, however, we were disappointed, for the sea was breaking too
heavily on the beach, and so we steamed back to North-East Bay
and dropped anchor. Wild went off in the launch to search for a
landing-place but found the sea everywhere too formidable.
Signals were made to those on shore, instructing them to finish off the
work on the wireless plant, and to kill a dozen sheep--enough for our
needs for some days.
The ship was now found to be drifting, and, as the wind was blowing
inshore, the anchor was raised, and with the launch in tow we steamed
round to the calmer waters of Hasselborough Bay. At the north end of the
island, for several miles out to sea along the line of a submerged reef,
the northerly swell was found to be piling up in an ugly manner, and
occasioned considerable damage to the launch. This happened as the
'Aurora' swung around; a sea catching the launch and rushing it forward
so that it struck the stern of the ship bow-on, notwithstanding the fact
that several of the men exerted themselves to their utmost to prevent
a collision. On arrival at the anchorage, the launch was noticeably
settling down, as water had entered at several seams which had been
started.
After being partly bailed out, it was left in the water with Hodgeman
and Close aboard, as we wished to run ashore as soon as the weather
improved. Contrary to expectation the wind increased, and it was
discovered that the 'Aurora' was drifting rapidly, although ninety
fathoms of chain had been paid out. Before a steam-winch** was
installed, the anchor could be raised only by means of an antiquated
man-power lever-windlass. In this type, a see-saw-like lever is worked
by a gang of men at each extremity, and it takes a long time to get in
any considerable length of chain. The chorus and chanty came to our aid
once more, and the long hours of heaving on the fo'c'sle head were a
bright if strenuous spot in our memories of Macquarie Island. In course
of time, during which the ship steamed slowly ahead, the end came in
sight--'Vast heaving!--but the anchor was missing. This put us in an
awkward situation, for the stock of our other heavy anchor had already
been lost. There was no other course but to steam up and down waiting
for the weather to moderate. In the meantime, we had been too busy
to relieve Close and Hodgeman, who had been doing duty in the launch,
bailing for five hours, and were thoroughly soaked with spray. All hands
now helped with the tackle, and we soon had the launch on board in its
old position near the main hatch.
** Fitted on return to Sydney after the first Antarctic cruise.
These operations were unusually protracted for we were short handed; the
boatswain, some of the sailors and most of the land party being marooned
on shore. We were now anxious to get everybody on board and to be off.
The completion of their quarters was to be left to the Macquarie Island
party, and it was important that we should make the most of the southern
season. The wind blew so strongly, however, that there was no immediate
prospect of departure.
The ship continued to steam up and down. On the morning of December 23
it was found possible to lower the whale-boat, and Wild went off with
a complement of sturdy oarsmen, including Madigan, Moyes, Watson and
Kennedy, and succeeded in bringing off the dogs. Several trips were made
with difficulty during the day, but at last all the men, dogs and sheep
were brought off.
Both Wild and I went with the whale-boat on its last trip at dusk on the
evening of December 23. The only possible landing-place, with the sea
then running, was at the extreme north-eastern corner of the beach. No
time was lost in getting the men and the remainder of the cargo into
the boat, though in the darkness this was not easily managed. The final
parting with our Macquarie Island party took place on the beach, their
cheers echoing to ours as we breasted the surf and "gave way" for the
ship.
CHAPTER III FROM MACQUARIE ISLAND TO ADELIE LAND
The morning following our farewell to Ainsworth and party at the north
end of the island found us steaming down the west coast, southward
bound.
Our supply of fresh water was scanty, and the only resource was to
touch at Caroline Cove. As a matter of fact, there were several suitable
localities on the east coast, but the strong easterly weather then
prevailing made a landing impossible.
On the ship nearing the south end, the wind subsided. She then crept
into the lee of the cliffs, a boat was dropped and soundings disclosed a
deep passage at the mouth of Caroline Cove and ample water within.
There was, however, limited space for manoeuvring the vessel if a change
should occur in the direction of the wind. The risk was taken; the
'Aurora' felt her way in, and, to provide against accident, was anchored
by Captain Davis with her bow toward the entrance. Wild then ran out a
kedge anchor to secure the stern.
During the cruise down the coast the missing stock of our only anchor
had been replaced by Gillies and Hannam. Two oregon "dead men", bolted
together on the shank, made a clumsy but efficient makeshift.
Two large barrels were taken ashore, repeatedly filled and towed off
to the ship. It was difficult at first to find good water, for the main
stream flowing down from the head of the bay was contaminated by the
penguins which made it their highway to a rookery. After a search, an
almost dry gulley bed was found to yield water when a pit was dug in its
bed. This spot was some eighty yards from the beach and to reach it one
traversed an area of tussocks between which sea elephants wallowed in
soft mire.
A cordon of men was made and buckets were interchanged, the full ones
descending and the empty ones ascending. The barrels on the beach were
thus speedily filled and taken off by a boat's crew. At 11 P.M. darkness
came, and it was decided to complete the work on the following day.
As we rowed to the ship, the water was serenely placid. From the dark
environing hills came the weird cries of strange birds. There was a hint
of wildness, soon to be forgotten in the chorus of a 'Varsity song and
the hearty shouts of the rowers.
About 2 A.M. the officer on watch came down to report to Captain Davis
a slight change in the direction of the breeze. At 3 A.M. I was again
awakened by hearing Captain Davis hasten on deck, and by a gentle
bumping of the ship, undoubtedly against rock. It appeared that the
officer on watch had left the bridge for a few minutes, while the wind
freshened and was blowing at the time nearly broadside-on from the
north. This caused the ship to sag to leeward, stretching the bow and
stern cables, until she came in contact with the kelp-covered, steep,
rocky bank on the south side. The narrow limits of the anchorage were
responsible for this dangerous situation.
All hands were immediately called on deck and set to work hauling on
the stern cable. In a few minutes the propeller and rudder were out of
danger. The engines were then started slowly ahead, and, as we came up
to the bower anchor, the cable was taken in. The wind was blowing across
the narrow entrance to the Cove, so that it was advisable to get quickly
under way. The kedge anchor was abandoned, and we steamed straight out
to sea with the bower hanging below the bows. The wind increased, and
there was no other course open but to continue the southward voyage.
The day so inauspiciously begun turned out beautifully sunny. There was
additional verve in our Christmas celebration, as Macquarie Island and
the Bishop and Clerk, in turn, sank below the northern horizon.
During the stay at the island little attention had been given to
scientific matters. All our energies had been concentrated on speedily
landing the party which was to carry out such special work, so as to
allow us to get away south as soon as possible. Enough had been seen to
indicate the wide scientific possibilities of the place.
For some days we were favoured by exceptional weather; a moderate
breeze from the north-east and a long, lazy swell combining to make our
progress rapid.
The sum of the experiences of earlier expeditions had shown that
the prevailing winds south of 60 degrees S. latitude were mainly
south-easterly, causing a continuous streaming of the pack from east to
west. Our obvious expedient on encountering the ice was to steam in the
same direction as this drift. It had been decided before setting out
that we would confine ourselves to the region west of the meridian
of 158 degrees E. longitude. So it was intended to reach the pack,
approximately in that meridian, and, should we be repulsed, to work
steadily to the west in expectation of breaking through to the land.
Regarding the ice conditions over the whole segment of the unknown tract
upon which our attack was directed, very little was known. Critically
examined, the reports of the American squadron under the command of
Wilkes were highly discouraging. D'Urville appeared to have reached
his landfall without much hindrance by ice, but that was a fortunate
circumstance in view of the difficulties Wilkes had met. At the western
limit of the area we were to explore, the Germans in the 'Gauss' had
been irrevocably trapped in the ice as early as the month of February.
At the eastern limit, only the year before, the 'Terra Nova' of Scott's
expedition, making a sally into unexplored waters, had sighted new land
almost on the 158th meridian, but even though it was then the end of
summer, and the sea was almost free from the previous season's ice, they
were not able to reach the land on account of the dense pack.
In the early southern summer, at the time of our arrival, the ice
conditions were expected to be at their worst. This followed from the
fact that not only would local floes be encountered, but also a vast
expanse of pack fed by the disintegrating floes of the Ross Sea, since,
between Cape Adare and the Balleny Islands, the ice drifting to the
north-west under the influence of the south-east winds is arrested in
an extensive sheet. On the other hand, were we to wait for the later
season, no time would remain for the accomplishment of the programme
which had been arranged. So we were forced to accept things as we found
them, being also prepared to make the most of any chance opportunity.
In planning the Expedition, the probability of meeting unusually heavy
pack had been borne in mind, and the three units into which the land
parties and equipment were divided had been disposed so as to facilitate
the landing of a base with despatch, and, maybe, under difficult
circumstances. Further, in case the ship were frozen in, "wireless"
could be installed and the news immediately communicated through
Macquarie Island to Australia.
At noon on December 27 whales were spouting all round us, and appeared
to be travelling from west to east. Albatrosses of several species
constantly hovered about, and swallow-like Wilson petrels--those nervous
rangers of the high seas--would sail along the troughs and flit over the
crests of the waves, to vanish into sombre distance.
Already we were steaming through untravelled waters, and new discoveries
might be expected at any moment. A keen interest spread throughout the
ship. On several occasions, fantastic clouds on the horizon gave hope
of land, only to be abandoned on further advance. On December 28 and 29
large masses of floating kelp were seen, and, like the flotsam met with
by Columbus, still further raised our hopes.
The possibility of undiscovered islands existing in the Southern Ocean,
south of Australia and outside the ice-bound region, kept us vigilant.
So few ships had ever navigated the waters south of latitude 55
degrees, that some one and a quarter million square miles lay open to
exploration. As an instance of such a discovery in the seas south of New
Zealand may be mentioned Scott Island, first observed by the 'Morning',
one of the relief ships of the British Expedition of 1902.
The weather remained favourable for sounding and other oceanographical
work, but as it was uncertain how long these conditions would last, and
in view of the anxiety arising from overloaded decks and the probability
of gales which are chronic in these latitudes, it was resolved to
land one of the bases as soon as possible, and thus rid the ship of
superfluous cargo. The interesting but time-absorbing study of the
ocean-depths was therefore postponed for a while.
With regard to the Antarctic land to be expected ahead, many of Wilkes's
landfalls, where they had been investigated by later expeditions, had
been disproved. It seemed as if he had regarded the northern margin
of the solid floe and shelf-ice as land; perhaps also mistaking bergs,
frozen in the floe and distorted by mirage, for ice-covered land.
Nevertheless, his soundings, and the light thrown upon the subject by
the Scott and Shackleton expeditions, left no doubt in my mind that
land would be found within a reasonable distance south of the position
assigned by Wilkes. Some authorities had held that any land existing
in this region would be found to be of the nature of isolated islands.
Those familiar with the adjacent land, however, were all in favour of it
being continental--a continuation of the Victoria Land plateau. The land
lay to the south beyond doubt; the problem was to reach it through
the belt of ice-bound sea. Still, navigable pack-ice might be ahead,
obviating the need of driving too far to the west.
"Ice on the starboard bow!" At 4 P.M. on December 29 the cry was raised,
and shortly after we passed alongside a small caverned berg whose
bluish-green tints called forth general admiration. In the distance
others could be seen. One larger than the average stood almost in our
path. It was of the flat-topped, sheer-walled type, so characteristic
of the Antarctic regions; three-quarters of a mile long and half a mile
wide, rising eighty feet above the sea.
It has been stated that tabular bergs are typical of the Antarctic as
opposed to the Arctic. This diversity is explained by a difference in
the glacial conditions. In the north, glaciation is not so marked and,
as a rule, coastal areas are free from ice, except for valley-glaciers
which transport ice from the high interior down to sea-level. There,
the summer temperature is so warm that the lower parts of the glaciers
become much decayed, and, reaching the sea, break up readily into
numerous irregular, pinnacled bergs of clear ice. In the south, the
tabular forms result from the fact that the average annual temperature
is colder than that prevailing at the northern axis of the earth. They
are so formed because, even at sea-level, no appreciable amount of
thawing takes place in midsummer. The inland ice pushes out to sea in
enormous masses, and remains floating long before it "calves" to form
bergs. Even though its surface has been thrown into ridges as it was
creeping over the uneven land, all are reduced to a dead level or
slightly undulating plain, in the free-floating condition, and are still
further effaced by dense drifts and repeated falls of snow descending
upon them. The upper portion of a table-topped berg consists, therefore,
of consolidated snow; neither temperature nor pressure having been
sufficient to metamorphose it into clear ice. Such a berg in old age
becomes worn into an irregular shape by the action of waves and weather,
and often completely capsizes, exposing its corroded basement.
A light fog obscured the surrounding sea and distant bergs glided by
like spectres. A monstrous block on the starboard side had not been long
adrift, for it showed but slight signs of weathering.
The fog thickened over a grey swell that shimmered with an oily lustre.
At 7 P.M. pack-ice came suddenly to view, and towards it we steered,
vainly peering through the mists ahead in search of a passage. The
ice was closely packed, the pieces being small and wellworn. On the
outskirts was a light brash which steadily gave place to a heavier
variety, composed of larger and more angular fragments. A swishing
murmur like the wind in the tree-tops came from the great expanse. It
was alabaster-white and through the small, separate chips was diffused
a pale lilac coloration. The larger chunks, by their motion and exposure
to wind and current, had a circle of clear water; the deep sea-blue
hovering round their water-worn niches. Here and there appeared the
ochreous-yellow colour of adhering films of diatoms.
As we could not see what lay beyond, and the pack was becoming heavier,
the ship was swung round and headed out.
Steering to the west through open water and patches of trailing brash,
we were encouraged to find the pack trending towards the south. By
pushing through bars of jammed floes and dodging numerous bergs, twenty
miles were gained due southwards before the conditions had changed. The
fog cleared, and right ahead massive bergs rose out of an ice-strewn
sea. We neared one which was a mile in length and one hundred feet in
height. The heaving ocean, dashing against its mighty, glistening walls,
rushed with a hollow boom into caverns of ethereal blue; gothic portals
to a cathedral of resplendent purity.
The smaller bergs and fragments of floe crowded closer together, and the
two men at the wheel had little time for reverie. Orders came in quick
succession--"Starboard! Steady!" and in a flash--"Hard-a-port!" Then
repeated all over again, while the rudder-chains scraped and rattled in
their channels.
Gradually the swell subsided, smoothed by the weight of ice. The
tranquillity of the water heightened the superb effects of this glacial
world. Majestic tabular bergs whose crevices exhaled a vaporous azure;
lofty spires, radiant turrets and splendid castles; honeycombed masses
illumined by pale green light within whose fairy labyrinths the water
washed and gurgled. Seals and penguins on magic gondolas were the silent
denizens of this dreamy Venice. In the soft glamour of the midsummer
midnight sun, we were possessed by a rapturous wonder--the rare thrill
of unreality.
The ice closed in, and shock after shock made the ship vibrate as she
struck the smaller pieces full and fair, followed by a crunching and
grinding as they scraped past the sides. The dense pack had come, and
hardly a square foot of space showed amongst the blocks; smaller
ones packing in between the larger, until the sea was covered with a
continuous armour of ice. The ominous sound arising from thousands
of faces rubbing together as they gently oscillated in the swell was
impressive. It spoke of a force all-powerful, in whose grip puny ships
might be locked for years and the less fortunate receive their last
embrace.
The pack grew heavier and the bergs more numerous, embattled in a
formidable array. If an ideal picture, from our point of view it was
impenetrable. No "water sky" showed as a distant beacon; over all was
reflected the pitiless, white glare of the ice. The 'Aurora' retreated
to the open sea, and headed to the west in search of a break in the
ice-front. The wind blew from the south-east, and, with sails set to
assist the engines, rapid progress was made.
The southern prospect was disappointing, for the heavy pack was ranged
in a continuous bar. The over-arching sky invariably shone with
that yellowish-white effulgence known as "ice blink," indicative of
continuous ice, in contrast with the dark water sky, a sign of open
water, or a mottled sky proceeding from an ice-strewn but navigable sea.
Though progress can be made in dense pack, provided it is not too heavy,
advance is necessarily very slow--a few miles a day, and that at the
expense of much coal. Without a well-defined "water sky" it would have
been foolish to have entered. Further, everything pointed to heavier
ice-conditions in the south, and, indeed, in several places we
reconnoitred, and such was proved to be the case. Large bergs were
numerous, which, on account of being almost unaffected by surface
currents because of their ponderous bulk and stupendous draught, helped
to compact the shallow surface-ice under the free influence of currents
and winds. In our westerly course we were sometimes able to edge a
little to the south, but were always reduced to our old position within
a few hours. Long projecting "tongues" were met at intervals and, when
narrow or open, we pushed through them.
Whales were frequently seen, both rorquals and killers. On the pack,
sea-leopards and crab-eater seals sometimes appeared. At one time as
many as a hundred would be counted from the bridge and at other moments
not a single one could be sighted. They were not alarmed, unless the
ship happened to bump against ice-masses within a short distance of
them. A small sea-leopard, shot from the fo'c'sle by a well-directed
bullet from Wild, was taken on board as a specimen; the meat serving as
a great treat for the dogs.
On January 2, when driving through a tongue of pack, a halt was made to
"ice ship." A number of men scrambled over the side on to a large piece
of floe and handed up the ice. It was soon discovered, however, that the
swell was too great, for masses of ice ten tons or more in weight
swayed about under the stern, endangering the propeller and rudder--the
vulnerable parts of the vessel. So we moved on, having secured enough
fresh-water ice to supply a pleasant change after the somewhat
discoloured tank-water then being served out. The ice still remained
compact and forbidding, but each day we hoped to discover a weak spot
through which we might probe to the land itself.
On the evening of January 2 we saw a high, pinnacled berg, a few miles
within the edge of the pack, closely resembling a rocky peak; the
transparent ice of which it was composed appeared, in the dull light,
of a much darker hue than the surrounding bergs. Another adjacent block
exhibited a large black patch on its northern face, the exact nature of
which could not be ascertained at a distance. Examples of rock debris
embedded in bergs had already been observed, and it was presumed that
this was a similar case. These were all hopeful signs, for the earthy
matter must, of course, have been picked up by the ice during its repose
upon some adjacent land.
At this same spot, large flocks of silver-grey petrels were seen resting
on the ice and skimming the water in search of food. As soon as we had
entered the ice-zone, most of our old companions, such as the albatross,
had deserted, while a new suite of Antarctic birds had taken their
place. These included the beautiful snow petrel, the Antarctic petrel,
and the small, lissome Wilson petrel--a link with the bird-life of more
temperate seas.
On the evening of January 3 the wind was blowing fresh from the
south-east and falling snow obscured the horizon. The pack took a
decided turn to the north, which fact was particularly disappointing in
view of the distance we had already traversed to the west. We were now
approaching the longitude of D'Urville's landfall, and still the pack
showed no signs of slackening. I was beginning to feel very anxious, and
had decided not to pass that longitude without resorting to desperate
measures.
The change in our fortunes occurred at five o'clock next morning, when
the Chief Officer, Toucher, came down from the bridge to report that the
atmosphere was clearing and that there appeared to be land-ice near
by. Sure enough, on the port side, within a quarter of a mile, rose a
massive barrier of ice extending far into the mist and separated from
the ship by a little loose pack-ice. The problem to be solved was,
whether it was the seaward face of an ice-covered continent, the
ice-capping of a low island or only a flat-topped iceberg of immense
proportions.
By 7 A.M. a corner was reached where the ice-wall trended southward,
limned on the horizon in a series of bays and headlands. An El Dorado
had opened before us, for the winds coming from the east of south had
cleared the pack away from the lee of the ice-wall, so that in the
distance a comparatively clear sea was visible, closed by a bar of ice,
a few miles in extent. Into this we steered, hugging the ice-wall, and
were soon in the open, speeding along in glorious sunshine, bringing new
sights into view every moment.
The wall, along the northern face, was low--from thirty to seventy feet
in height--but the face along which we were now progressing gradually
rose in altitude to the south. It was obviously a shelf-ice formation
(or a glacier-tongue projection of it), exactly similar in build, for
instance, to the Great Ross Barrier so well described by Ross, Scott,
and others. At the north-west corner, at half a dozen places within
a few miles of each other, the wall was puckered up and surmounted by
semi-conical eminences, half as high as the face itself. These peculiar
elevations were unlike anything previously recorded and remained
unexplained for a while, until closer inspection showed them to be the
result of impact with other ice-masses--a curious but conceivable cause.
On pieces of broken floe Weddell seals were noted. They were the first
seen on the voyage and a sure indication of land, for their habitat
ranges over the coastal waters of Antarctic lands.
A large, low, dome-topped elevation, about one mile in diameter, was
passed on the starboard side, at a distance of two miles from the long
ice-cliff. This corresponded in shape with what Ross frequently referred
to as an "ice island," uncertain whether it was a berg or ice-covered
land. A sounding close by gave two hundred and eight fathoms, showing
that we were on the continental shelf, and increasing the probability
that the "ice island" was aground.
Birds innumerable appeared on every hand: snow petrels, silver petrels,
Cape pigeons and Antarctic petrels. They fluttered in hundreds about
our bows. Cape pigeons are well known in lower latitudes, and it was
interesting to find them so far south. As they have chessboard-like
markings on the back when seen in flight, there is no mistaking them.
The ice-wall or glacier-tongue now took a turn to the south-east. At
this point it had risen to a great height, about two hundred feet sheer.
A fresh wind was blowing in our teeth from the south-south-east, and
beyond this point would be driving us on to the cliffs. We put the ship
about, therefore, and made for the lee side of the "ice island."
In isolated coveys on the inclined top of the "island" were several
flocks, each containing hundreds of Antarctic petrels. At intervals they
would rise into the air in clouds, shortly afterwards to settle down
again on the snow.
Captain Davis moved the ship carefully against the lee wall of the
"island," with a view of replenishing our water supply, but it was
unscalable, and we were forced to withdraw. Crouched on a small
projection near the water's edge was a seal, trying to evade the eyes of
a dozen large grampuses which were playing about near our stern. These
monsters appeared to be about twenty-five feet in length. They are the
most formidable predacious mammals of the Antarctic seas, and annually
account for large numbers of seals, penguins, and other cetaceans. The
sea-leopard is its competitor, though not nearly so ferocious as the
grampus, of whom it lives in terror.
The midnight hours were spent off the "ice island" while we wafted for
a decrease in the wind. Bars of cirrus clouds covered the whole sky--the
presage of a coming storm. The wind arose, and distant objects were
blotted out by driving snow. An attempt was made to keep the ship
in shelter by steaming into the wind, but as "ice island" and
glacier-tongue were lost in clouds of snow, we were fortunate to make
the lee of the latter, about fourteen miles to the north. There we
steamed up and down until the afternoon of January 5, when the weather
improved. A sounding was taken and the course was once more set for the
south.
The sky remained overcast, the atmosphere foggy, and a south-south-east
wind was blowing as we came abreast of the "ice island," which, by the
way, was discovered to have drifted several miles to the north, thus
proving itself to be a free-floating berg. The glacier-tongue on the
port side took a sharp turn to the east-south-east, disappearing on the
horizon. As there was no pack in sight and the water was merely littered
with fragments of ice, it appeared most likely that the turn in the
glacier-tongue was part of a great sweeping curve ultimately joining
with the southward land. On our south-south-east course we soon lost
sight of the ice-cliffs in a gathering fog.
On the afternoon of January 6 the wind abated and the fog began to
clear. At 5 P.M. a line of ice confronted us and, an hour later, the
'Aurora' was in calm water under another mighty ice face trending across
our course. This wall was precisely similar to the one seen on the
previous evening, and might well have been a continuation of it. It is
scarcely credible that when the 'Aurora' came south the following year,
the glacier-tongue first discovered had entirely disappeared. It was
apparently nothing more than a huge iceberg measuring forty miles in
length. Specially valuable, as clearing up any doubt that may have
remained, was its re-discovery the following year some fifty miles to
the north-west. Close to the face of the new ice-wall, which proved to
be a true glacier-tongue, a mud bottom was found at a depth of three
hundred and ninety-five fathoms.
While we were steaming in calm water to the south-west, the massive
front, serrated by shallow bays and capes, passed in magnificent review.
Its height attained a maximum of one hundred and fifty feet. In places
the sea had eaten out enormous blue grottoes. At one spot, several of
these had broken into each other to form a huge domed cavern, the roof
of which hung one hundred feet above the sea. The noble portico was
flanked by giant pillars.
The glacier-tongue bore all the characters of shelf-ice, by which is
meant a floating extension of the land-ice.** A table-topped berg in the
act of formation was seen, separated from the parent body of shelf-ice
by a deep fissure several yards in width.
** Subsequently this shelf-ice formation was found to be a floating
glacier-tongue sixty miles in length, the seaward extension of a large
glacier which we named the Mertz Glacier.
At 11 P.M. the 'Aurora' entered a bay, ten miles wide, bounded on the
east by the shelf-ice wall and on the west by a steep snow-covered
promontory rising approximately two thousand feet in height, as yet seen
dimly in hazy outline through the mist. No rock was visible, but the
contour of the ridge was clearly that of ice-capped land.
There was much jubilation among the watchers on deck at the prospect.
Every available field-glass and telescope was brought to bear upon it.
It was almost certainly the Antarctic continent, though, at that time,
its extension to the east, west and south remained to be proved. The
shelf-ice was seen to be securely attached to it and, near its point of
junction with the undulating land-ice, we beheld the mountains of this
mysterious land haloed in ghostly mist.
While passing the extremity of the western promontory, we observed an
exposure of rock, jutting out of the ice near sea-level, in the face of
a scar left by an avalanche. Later, when passing within half a cable's
length of several berg-like masses of ice lying off the coast, rock
was again visible in black relief against the water's edge, forming a
pedestal for the ice. The ship was kept farther offshore, after this
warning, for though she was designed to buffet with the ice, we had no
desire to test her resistance to rock.
The bottom was very irregular, and as an extra precaution, soundings
were taken every few minutes. Through a light fog all that could be
seen landwards was a steep, sloping, icy surface descending from the
interior, and terminating abruptly in a seaward cliff fifty to two
hundred feet in height.
The ice-sheet terminating in this wall presented a more broken surface
than the floating shelf-ice. It was riven and distorted by gaping
crevasses; an indication of the rough bed over which it had travelled.
Towards midnight another bay was entered and many rocky islets appeared
on its western side. The engines were stopped for a few hours, and the
voyage was resumed in clearer weather on the following morning.
All day we threaded our way between islands and bergs. Seals and
penguins swam around, the latter squawking and diving in a most amusing
manner.
Cautiously we glided by an iceberg, at least one hundred and fifty feet
high, rising with a faceted, perpendicular face chased with soft, snowy
traceries and ornamented with stalactites. Splits and rents broke into
the margin, and from each streamed the evanescent, azure vapour. Each
puncture and tiny grotto was filled with it, and a sloping cap of
shimmering snow spread over the summit. The profile-view was an exact
replica of a battleship, grounded astern. The bold contour of the
bow was perfect, and the massive flank had been torn and shattered
by shell-fire in a desperate naval battle. This berg had heeled over
considerably, and the original water-line ran as a definite rim, thirty
feet above the green water. From this rim shelved down a smooth and
polished base, marked with fine vertical striae.
Soundings varied from twenty to two hundred fathoms, and, accordingly,
the navigation was particularly anxious work.
Extending along about fifteen miles of coast, where the inland ice came
down steeply to the sea, was a marginal belt of sea, about two or three
miles in width, thickly strewn with rocky islets. Of these some were
flat and others peaked, but all were thickly populated by penguins,
petrels and seals. The rocks appeared all to be gneisses and schists.
Later that night we lay off a possible landing-place for one of our
bases, but, on more closely inspecting it in the morning, we decided to
proceed farther west into a wide sweeping bay which opened ahead. About
fifty miles ahead, on the far side of Commonwealth Bay, as we named it,
was a cape which roughly represented in position Cape Decouverte, the
most easterly extension of Adelie Land seen by D'Urville in 1840.
Though Commonwealth Bay and the land already seen had never before been
sighted, all was placed under the territorial name of Adelie Land.
The land was so overwhelmed with ice that, even at sea-level, the rock
was all but entirely hidden. Here was an ice age in all earnestness; a
picture of Northern Europe during the Great Ice Age some fifty thousand
years ago. It was evident that the glaciation of Adelie Land was much
more severe than that in higher Antarctic latitudes, as exampled on the
borders of the Ross Sea; the arena of Scott's, Shackleton's and other
expeditions. The temperature could not be colder, so we were led to
surmise that the snowfall must be excessive. The full truth was to be
ascertained by bitter experience, after spending a year on the spot.
I had hoped to find the Antarctic continent in these latitudes bounded
by a rocky and attractive coast like that in the vicinity of Cape Adare;
the nearest well-explored region. It had proved otherwise, only too well
endorsing the scanty information supplied by D'Urville and Wilkes of
the coastline seen by them. A glance at the austere plateau and the
ice-fettered coast was evidence of a rigid, inhospitable climate. It
was apparent, too, that only a short summer could be expected in these
latitudes, thus placing limitations upon our operations.
If three bases were to be landed it was important that they should be
spread at sufficiently wide intervals. If one were placed in Adelie
Land, the ship would probably have to break through the pack in
establishing each of the other two ba ses. Judging by our previous
experience there was no certain prospect of this being effected. The
successful landing of three bases in suitable positions, sufficiently
far apart for advantageous co-operation in geographical, meteorological
and other observations, had now become problematical. In addition, one
of the parties was not as strong as I would have liked, considering what
would be undoubtedly its strenuous future.
For some days the various phases of the situation had occupied my mind,
and I now determined to risk two bases, combining the smallest of the
three parties with the Main Base. Alterations in the personnel of the
third party were also made, by which the Main Base would be increased in
strength for scientific work, and the other party under the leadership
of Wild would be composed of men of specially good sledging calibre,
besides being representative of the leading branches of our scientific
programme.
We had a splendid lot of men, and I had no difficulty in choosing for
Wild seven companions who could be relied upon to give a good account of
themselves. It was only by assuring myself of their high efficiency that
I could expect to rest from undue anxiety throughout the year of our
separation. The composition of the two parties was as follows:
Main Base: R. Bage, F. H. Bickerton, J. H. Close, P. E. Correll, W. H.
Hannam, A. J. Hodgeman, J. G. Hunter, J. F. Hurley, C. F. Laseron, C.
T. Madigan, A. L. McLean, X. Mertz, H. D. Murphy, B. E. S. Ninnis, F. L.
Stillwell, E. N. Webb, L. H. Whetter and myself.
Western Party: G. Dovers, C. T. Harrisson, C. A. Hoadley, S. E. Jones,
A. L. Kennedy, M. H. Moyes, A. D. Watson, and F. Wild (leader).
I was now anxious to find a suitable location for our Main Base; two
reasons making it an urgent matter. The first was, that as we advanced
to the west we were leaving the South Magnetic Pole, and I was anxious
to have our magnetographs running as near the latter as possible.
Secondly, we would be daily increasing our distance from Macquarie
Island, making wireless communication more uncertain.
At noon on January 8, while I was weighing the pros and cons with
Captain Davis, Wild came in to say that there was a rocky exposure about
fifteen miles off on the port side, and suggested altering our course to
obtain a better view of it.
Just after 4 P.M., when the ship was about one mile from the nearest
rocks, the whale-boat was lowered and manned. We rowed in with the
object of making a closer investigation. From the ship's deck, even when
within a mile, the outcrop had appeared to project directly from under
the inland ice-sheet. Now, however, we were surprised to find ourselves
amongst an archipelago of islets. These were named the Mackellar Islets,
in remembrance of one who had proved a staunch friend of the Expedition.
Weddell seals and Adelie penguins in thousands rested upon the rocks;
the latter chiefly congregated upon a long, low, bare islet situated in
the centre. This was the largest of the group, measuring about half a
mile in length; others were not above twenty yards in diameter. As we
came inshore, the main body of the archipelago was found to be separated
by a mile and a half from the mainland. A point which struck us at the
time was that the islets situated on the southern side of the group were
capped by unique masses of ice; resembling iced cakes. Later we were
able to see them in process of formation. In the violent southerly
hurricanes prevalent in Adelie Land, the spray breaks right over them.
Part of it is deposited and frozen, and by increments the icing of these
monstrous "cakes" is built up. The amount contributed in winter makes
up for loss by thawing in midsummer. As the islets to windward shelter
those in their lee, the latter are destitute of these natural canopies.
Soundings were taken at frequent intervals with a hand lead-line,
manipulated by Madigan. The water was on the whole shallow, varying
from a few to twenty fathoms. The bottom was clothed by dense, luxuriant
seaweed. This rank growth along the littoral was unexpected, for nothing
of the kind exists on the Ross Sea coasts within five or six fathoms of
the surface.
Advancing towards the mainland, we observed a small islet amongst the
rocks, and towards it the boat was directed. We were soon inside a
beautiful, miniature harbour completely land-locked. The sun
shone gloriously in a blue sky as we stepped ashore on a charming
ice-quay--the first to set foot on the Antarctic continent between Cape
Adare and Gaussberg, a distance of one thousand eight hundred miles.
Wild and I proceeded to make a tour of exploration. The rocky area at
Cape Denison, as it was named, was found to be about one mile in
length and half a mile in extreme width. Behind it rose the inland ice,
ascending in a regular slope and apparently free of crevasses--an outlet
for our sledging parties in the event of the sea not firmly freezing
over. To right and left of this oasis, as the visitor to Adelie Land
must regard the welcome rock, the ice was heavily crevassed and fell
sheer to the sea in cliffs, sixty to one hundred and fifty feet in
height. Two small dark patches in the distance were the only evidences
of rock to relieve the white monotony of the coast.
In landing cargo on Antarctic shores, advantage is generally taken
of the floe-ice on to which the materials can be unloaded and at once
sledged away to their destination. Here, on the other hand, there was
open water, too shallow for the 'Aurora' to be moored alongside the
ice-foot. The only alternative was to anchor the ship at a distance
and discharge the cargo by boats running to the ideal harbour we had
discovered. Close to the boat harbour was suitable ground for the
erection of a hut, so that the various impedimenta would have to be
carried only a short distance. For supplies of fresh meat, in the
emergency of being marooned for a number of years, there were many
Weddell seals at hand, and on almost all the neighbouring ridges
colonies of penguins were busy rearing their young.64
As a station for scientific investigations, it offered a wider field
than the casual observer would have imagined. So it came about that the
Main Base was finally settled at Cape Denison, Commonwealth Bay.
We arrived on board at 8 P.M., taking a seal as food for the dogs.
Without delay, the motor-launch was dropped into the water, and both it
and the whale-boat loaded with frozen carcasses of mutton, cases of eggs
and other perishable goods.
While some of us went ashore in the motor-launch, with the whale-boat in
tow, the 'Aurora' steamed round the Mackellar Islets seeking for a good
anchorage under the icy barrier, immediately to the west of the boat
harbour. The day had been perfect, vibrant with summer and life, but
towards evening a chill breeze sprang up, and we in the motor-launch had
to beat against it. By the time we had reached the head of the harbour,
Hoadley had several fingers frost-bitten and all were feeling the cold,
for we were wearing light garments in anticipation of fine weather.
The wind strengthened every minute, and showers of fine snow were soon
whistling down the glacier. No time was lost in landing the cargo, and,
with a rising blizzard at our backs, we drove out to meet the 'Aurora'.
On reaching the ship a small gale was blowing and our boats were taken
in tow.
The first thing to be considered was the mooring of the 'Aurora' under
the lee of the ice-wall, so as to give us an opportunity of getting the
boats aboard. In the meantime they were passed astern, each manned by
several hands to keep them bailed out; the rest of us having scrambled
up the side. Bringing the ship to anchor in such a wind in uncharted,
shoal water was difficult to do in a cool and methodical manner. The
sounding machine was kept running with rather dramatic results; depths
jumping from five to thirty fathoms in the ship's length, and back again
to the original figure in the same distance. A feeling of relief passed
round when, after much manoeuvring, the anchor was successfully bedded
five hundred yards from the face of the cliff.
Just at this time the motor-launch broke adrift. Away it swept before a
wind of forty-five miles per hour. On account of the cold, and because
the engine was drenched with sea-water, some difficulty was found in
starting the motor. From the ship's deck we could see Bickerton busily
engaged with it. The rudder had been unshipped, and there was no chance
of replacing it, for the boat was bobbing about on the waves in a most
extraordinary manner. However, Whetter managed to make a jury-rudder
which served the purpose, while Hunter, the other occupant, was kept
laboriously active with the pump.
They had drifted half a mile, and were approaching the rocks of an islet
on which the sea was breaking heavily. Just as every one was becoming
very apprehensive, the launch began to forge ahead, and the men had soon
escaped from their dangerous predicament. By the united efforts of all
hands the boats were hoisted on board and everything was made as "snug"
as possible.
The wind steadily increased, and it seemed impossible for the anchor to
hold. The strain on the cable straightened out a steel hook two inches
in diameter. This caused some embarrassment, as the hook was part of
the cable attachment under the fo'c'sle-head. It is remarkable, however,
that after this was adjusted the ship did not lose her position up to
the time of departure from Adelie Land.
Though we were so close under the shelter of a lofty wall, the waves
around us were at least four feet in height and when the wind increased
to sixty-five and seventy miles per hour, their crests were cut off and
the surface was hidden by a sheet of racing spindrift.
Everything was securely lashed in readiness for going to sea, in case
the cable should part. Final arrangements were then made to discharge
the cargo quickly as soon as the wind moderated.
Two days had elapsed before the wind showed any signs of abatement. It
was 8 P.M. on January 10 when the first boat ventured off with a small
cargo, but it was not till the following morning that a serious start
was made. In good weather, every trip between the ship and the boat
harbour, a distance of a mile, meant that five or six tons had been
landed. It was usual for the loaded launch to tow both whale-boats
heavily laden and, in addition, a raft of hut timbers or wireless masts.
Some of the sailors, while engaged in building rafts alongside the ship,
were capsized into the water and after that the occupation was not a
popular one.
Ashore, Wild had rigged a derrick, using for its construction two of
the wireless royal masts. It was thus possible to cope with the heavier
packages at the landing-place. Of the last-named the air-tractor sledge
was by far the most troublesome. With plenty of manual labour, under
Wild's skilful direction, this heavy machine was hoisted from the
motor-launch, and then carefully swung on to the solid ice-foot.
Captain Davis superintended the discharging operations on the ship,
effected by the crew and some of the land party under the direction of
the ship's officers. Wild supervised conveyance ashore, and the landing,
classification, and safe storage of the various boat-loads. Gillies and
Bickerton took alternate shifts in driving the motor-launch. The launch
proved invaluable, and we were very glad that it had been included in
the equipment, for it did a remarkable amount of work in a minimum of
time.
In view of the difficulty of embarking the boats, if another hurricane
should arise, tents were erected ashore, so that a party could remain
there with the boats moored in a sheltered harbour.
Everything went well until just before midnight on January 12, when the
wind again swept down. Wild, four of the men and I were forced to remain
ashore. We spent the time constructing a temporary hut of benzine cases,
roofed with planks; the walls of which were made massive to resist the
winds. This structure was henceforth known as the "Benzine Hut".
The barometer dropped to 28.5 inches and the wind remained high. We were
struck with the singular fact that, even in the height of some of these
hurricanes, the sky remained serene and the sun shone brightly. It had
been very different when the ship was amongst the pack a few miles to
the north, for, there, cloudy and foggy conditions had been the rule.
The wind coming to us from the south was dry; obviously an argument for
the continental extension of the land in that direction.
At 2 A.M. on January 15 a pre-arranged whistle was sounded from the
'Aurora', advising those of us ashore that the sea had moderated
sufficiently to continue unloading. Wild sped away in the launch, but
before he had reached the ship the wind renewed its activity. At last,
after 2 P.M. on the same day it ceased, and we were able to carry on
work until midnight, when the wind descended on us once more. This time,
eighteen men remained ashore. After twelve hours there was another lull,
and unloading was then continued with only a few intermissions from 1
P.M. on January 16 until the afternoon of January 19.
Never was landing so hampered by adverse conditions, and yet, thanks to
the assiduous application of all, a great assortment of materials was
safely embarked. Comprised among them were the following: twenty-three
tons of coal briquettes, two complete living-huts, a magnetic
observatory, the whole of the wireless equipment, including masts,
and more than two thousand packages of general supplies containing
sufficient food for two years, utensils, instruments, benzine, kerosene,
lubricating oils an air-tractor and other sledges.
Then came the time for parting. There was a great field before Wild's
party to the west, and it was important that they should be able to
make the most of the remainder of the season. My great regret was that I
could not be with them. I knew that I had men of experience and ability
in Davis and Wild, and felt that the work entrusted to them was in the
best of hands. Through the medium of wireless telegraphy I hoped to keep
in touch with the Macquarie Island party, the Western Base,** and the
ship itself, when in Australian waters.
** They were supplied with masts and a receiving set sufficiently
sensitive to pick up messages from a distance of five or six hundred
miles.
It was my idea that Wild's party should proceed west and attempt to
effect a landing and establish a western wintering station at some
place not less than four hundred miles west of Adelie Land. On the way,
whenever opportunity presented itself, they were to cache provisions
at intervals along the coast in places liable to be visited by sledging
parties.
The location of such caches and of the Western Base, it was hoped, would
be communicated to us at the Main Base, through the medium of wireless
telegraphy from Hobart.
All members of the land parties and the ship's officers met in the
ward-room. There were mutual good wishes expressed all round, and then
we celebrated previous Antarctic explorers, more especially D'Urville
and Wilkes. The toast was drunk in excellent Madeira presented to us by
Mr. J. T. Buchanan, who had carried this sample round the world with him
when a member of the celebrated 'Challenger' expedition.
The motor-launch was hoisted and the anchor raised. Then at 8.45 P.M.
on January 19 we clambered over the side into one of the whale-boats and
pushed off for Cape Denison, shouting farewells back to the 'Aurora'.
Several hours later she had disappeared below the north-western horizon,
and we had set to work to carve out a home in Adelie Land.
CHAPTER IV NEW LANDS
Leaving the land party under my charge at Commonwealth Bay on the
evening of January 19, the 'Aurora' set her course to round a headland
visible on the north-western horizon. At midnight the ship came abreast
of this point and continued steaming west, keeping within a distance of
five miles of the coast. A break in the icy monotony came with a short
tract of islets fronting a background of dark rocky coastline similar to
that at Cape Denison but more extensive.
Some six miles east of D'Urville's Cape Discovery, a dangerous reef was
sighted extending at right angles across the course. The ship steamed
along it and her soundings demonstrated a submerged ridge continuing
some twelve miles out to sea. Captain Davis's narrative proceeds:
"Having cleared this obstacle we followed the coastline to the west from
point to point. Twelve miles away we could see the snow-covered slopes
rising from the seaward cliffs to an elevation of one thousand five
hundred feet. Several small islands were visible close to a shore
fringed by numerous large bergs.
"At 10 P.M. on January 20, our progress to the west was stopped by a
fleet of bergs off the mainland and an extensive field of berg-laden
pack-ice, trending to the north and north-east. Adelie Land could be
traced continuing to the west. Where it disappeared from view there was
the appearance of a barrier-formation, suggestive of shelf-ice,
running in a northerly direction. Skirting the pack-ice on a north and
north-west course, we observed the same appearance from the crow's-nest
on January 21 and 22."
The stretch of open, navigable, coastal water to the north of Adelie
Land, barred by the Mertz Glacier on the east and delimited on the west
by more or less compact ice, has been named the D'Urville Sea. We found
subsequently that its freedom from obstruction by ice is due to the
persistent gales which set off the land in that locality. To the north,
pack-ice in variable amount is encountered before reaching the wide open
ocean.
The existence of such a "barrier-formation,"** as indicated above,
probably resting on a line of reef similar to the one near Cape
Discovery, would account for the presence of this ice-field in
practically the same position as it was seen by D'Urville in 1840.
** An analysis of the data derived from the later voyages of the
'Aurora' makes it practically certain that there is a permanent obstacle
to the westerly drift of the pack-ice in longitude 137 degrees E. There
is, however, some uncertainty as to the cause of this blockage. An
alternative explanation is advanced, namely, that within the area
of comparatively shallow water, large bergs are entrapped, and these
entangle the drifting pack-ice.
At a distance, large bergs would be undistinguishable from shelf-ice,
appearances of which were reported above.
Quoting further: "We were unable to see any trace of the high land
reported by the United States Squadron (1840) as lying to the west and
south beyond the compact ice.
"At 1.30 A.M. on the 23rd the pack-ice was seen to trend to the
south-west. After steaming west for twenty-five miles, we stood south in
longitude 182 degrees 30' E, shortly afterwards passing over the charted
position of Cote Clarie. The water here was clear of pack-ice, but
studded with bergs of immense size. The great barrier which the French
ships followed in 1840 had vanished. A collection of huge bergs was the
sole remnant to mark its former position.
"At 10 A.M., having passed to the south of the charted position of
D'Urville's Cote Clarie, we altered course to S. 10 degrees E. true.
Good observations placed us at noon in latitude 65 degrees 2' S. and
132 degrees 26' E. A sounding on sand and small stones was taken in one
hundred and sixty fathoms. We sailed over the charted position of land
east of Wilkes's Cape Carr in clear weather.
"At 5.30 P.M. land was sighted to the southward--snowy highlands similar
to those of Adelie Land but greater in elevation.
"After sounding in one hundred and fifty-six fathoms on mud, the ship
stood directly towards the land until 9 P.M. The distance to the nearest
point was estimated at twenty miles; heavy floe-ice extending from our
position, latitude 65 degrees 45' S. and longitude 132 degrees 40' E.,
right up to the shore. Another sounding realized two hundred and thirty
fathoms, on sand and small stones. Some open water was seen to the
south-east, but an attempt to force a passage in that direction was
frustrated.
"At 3 A.M. on the 24th we were about twelve miles from the nearest
point of the coast, and further progress became impossible. The southern
slopes were seamed with numerous crevasses, but at a distance the
precise nature of the shores could not be accurately determined."
To this country, which had never before been seen, was given the name of
Wilkes's Land; as it is only just to commemorate the American Exploring
Expedition on the Continent which its leader believed he had discovered
in these seas and which he would have found had Fortune favoured him
with a fair return for his heroic endeavours.
"We steered round on a north-westerly course, and at noon on January 24
were slightly to the north of our position at 5.30 A.M. on the 23rd.
A sounding reached one hundred and seventy fathoms and a muddy bottom.
Environing us were enormous bergs of every kind, one hundred and eighty
to two hundred feet in height. During the afternoon a westerly course
was maintained in clear water until 4 P.M., when the course was altered
to S. 30 degrees W., in the hope of winning through to the land visible
on the southern horizon."
[TEXT ILLUSTRATION]
Ship's tracks in the vicinity of Totten's Land and North's Land
At 8 P.M. the sky was very clear to the southward, and the land could
be traced to a great distance until it faded in the south-west. But the
ship had come up with the solid floe-ice once more, and had to give
way and steam along its edge. This floating breakwater held us off and
frustrated all attempts to reach the goal which we sought.
"The next four days was a period of violent gales and heavy seas which
drove the ship some distance to the north. Nothing was visible through
swirling clouds of snow. The 'Aurora' behaved admirably, as she
invariably does in heavy weather. The main pack was encountered on
January 29, but foggy weather prevailed. It was not until noon on
January 31 that the atmosphere was sufficiently clear to obtain good
observations. The ship was by this time in the midst of heavy floe in
the vicinity of longitude 119 degrees E., and again the course had swung
round to south. We had soon passed to the south of Balleny's Sabrina
Land without any indication of its existence. Considering the doubtful
character of the statements justifying its appearance on the chart, it
is not surprising that we did not verify them.
"At 11 A.M. the floes were found too heavy for further advance. The
ship was made fast to a big one and a large quantity of ice was taken
on board to replenish the fresh-water supply. A tank of two hundred
gallons' capacity, heated within by a steam coil from the engineroom,
stood on the poop deck. Into this ice was continuously fed, flowing away
as it melted into the main tanks in the bottom of the ship.
"At noon the weather was clear, but nothing could be discerned in the
south except a faint blue line on the horizon. It may have been a 'lead'
of water, an effect of mirage, or even land-ice--in any case we could
not approach it."
The position as indicated by the noon observations placed the ship
within seven miles of a portion of Totten's High Land in Wilkes's
charts. As high land would have been visible at a great distance, it
is clear that Totten's High Land either does not exist or is situated a
considerable distance from its charted location. A sounding was made in
three hundred and forty fathoms.
[TEXT ILLUSTRATION]
Ship's track in the vicinity of Knox Land and Budd Land
Towards evening the 'Aurora' turned back to open water and cruised along
the pack-ice. A sounding next day showed nine hundred and twenty-seven
fathoms.
It was about this time that a marked improvement was noted in the
compass. Ever since the first approach to Adelie Land it had been found
unreliable, for, on account of the proximity to the magnetic pole,
the directive force of the needle was so slight that very large local
variations were experienced.
The longitude of Wilkes's Knox Land was now approaching. With the
exception of Adelie Land, the account by Wilkes concerning Knox Land
is more convincing than any other of his statements relating to new
Antarctic land. If they had not already disembarked, we had hoped to
land the western party in that neighbourhood. It was, therefore,
most disappointing when impenetrable ice blocked the way, before
Wilkes's "farthest south" in that locality had been reached. Three
determined efforts were made to find a weak spot, but each time the
'Aurora' was forced to retreat, and the third time was extricated
only with great difficulty. In latitude 65 degrees 5' S. longitude 107
degrees 20' E., a sounding of three hundred fathoms was made on a rocky
bottom. This sounding pointed to the probability of land within sixty
miles.
Repulsed from his attack on the pack, Captain Davis set out westward
towards the charted position of Termination Land, and in following the
trend of the ice was forced a long way to the north.
At 7.40 A.M., February 8, in foggy weather, the ice-cliff of floating
shelf-ice was met. This was disposed so as to point in a north-westerly
direction and it was late in the day before the ship doubled its
northern end. Here the sounding wire ran out for eight hundred and
fifty fathoms without reaching bottom. Following the wall towards the
south-south-east, it was interesting at 5.30 P.M. to find a sounding of
one hundred and ten fathoms in latitude 64 degrees 45'. A line of large
grounded bergs and massive floe-ice was observed ahead trailing away
from the ice-wall towards the north-west.
On plotting the observations, it became apparent that the shelf-ice was
in the form of a prolonged tongue some seven miles in breadth. As it
occupied the position of the "Termination Land" which has appeared on
some charts, (after Wilkes) it was named Termination Ice-Tongue.
A blizzard sprang up, and, after it had been safely weathered in the
lee of some grounded bergs, the 'Aurora' moved off on the afternoon of
February 11. The horizon was obscured by mist, as she pursued a tortuous
track amongst bergs and scattered lumps of heavy floe. Gradually the sea
became more open, and by noon on February 12 the water had deepened
to two hundred and thirty-five fathoms. Good progress was made to the
south; the vessel dodging icebergs and detached floes.
The discovery of a comparatively open sea southward of the main pack was
a matter of some moment. As later voyages and the observations of the
Western Party showed, this tract of sea is a permanent feature of the
neighbourhood. I have called it the Davis Sea, after the captain of the
'Aurora', in appreciation of the fact that he placed it on the chart.
At noon, on February 13, in latitude 65 degrees 54 1/2' S. longitude 94
degrees 25' E., the western face of a long, floating ice-tongue loomed
into view. There were five hundred fathoms of water off its extremity,
and the cliffs rose vertically to one hundred feet. Soon afterwards land
was clearly defined low in the south extending to east and west. This
was thenceforth known as Queen Mary Land.
The sphere of operations of the German expedition of 1902 was near at
hand, for its vessel, the 'Gauss', had wintered, frozen in the pack,
one hundred and twenty-five miles to the west. It appeared probable that
Queen Mary Land would be found to be continuous** with Kaiser Wilhelm
II Land, which the Germans had reached by a sledging journey from their
ship across the intervening sea-ice.
** Such was eventually proved to be the case.
The 'Aurora' followed the western side of the ice-tongue for about
twenty miles in a southerly direction, at which point there was a
white expanse of floe extending right up to the land. Wild and Kennedy,
walking several miles towards the land, estimated that it was about
twenty-five miles distant. As the surface over which they travelled was
traversed by cracks and liable to drift away to sea, all projects of
landing there had to be abandoned; furthermore, it was discovered that
the ice-tongue, alongside of which the ship lay, was a huge iceberg. A
landing on it had been contemplated, but was now out of question.
The main difficulty which arose at this juncture was the failing
coal-supply. It was high time to return to Hobart, and, if a western
base was to be formed at all, Wild's party would have to be landed
without further delay. After a consultation, Davis and Wild decided that
under the circumstances an attempt should be made to gain a footing on
the adjacent shelf-ice, if nothing better presented itself.
The night was passed anchored to the floe, on the edge of which were
numerous Emperor penguins and Weddell seals. A fresh south-easterly
wind blew on February 14, and the ship was kept in the shelter of the
iceberg. During the day enormous pieces were observed to be continually
breaking away from the berg and drifting to leeward.
Captain Davis continues: "At midnight there was a strong swell from the
north-east and the temperature went down to 18 degrees F. At 4 A.M.,
February 15, we reached the northern end of the berg and stood first of
all to the east, and then later to the south-east.
"At 8.45 A.M., shelf-ice was observed from aloft, trending approximately
north and south in a long wall. At noon we came up with the floe-ice
again, in about the same latitude as on the western side of the long
iceberg. Land could be seen to the southward. At 1 P.M. the ship stopped
at the junction of the floe and the shelf-ice."
Wild, Harrison and Hoadley went to examine the shelf-ice with a view
to its suitability for a wintering station. The cliff was eighty to one
hundred feet in height, so that the ice in total thickness must have
attained at least as much as six hundred feet. Assisted by snow-ramps
slanting down on to the floe, the ascent with ice-axes and alpine rope
was fairly easy.
Two hundred yards from the brink, the shelf-ice was thrown into
pressure-undulations and fissured by crevasses, but beyond that was
apparently sound and unbroken. About seventeen miles to the south the
rising slopes of ice-mantled land were visible, fading away to the far
east and west.
The ice-shelf was proved later on to extend for two hundred miles from
east to west, ostensibly fusing with the Termination Ice-Tongue, whose
extremity is one hundred and eighty miles to the north. The whole has
been called the Shackleton Ice-Shelf.
Wild and his party unanimously agreed to seize upon this last
opportunity, and to winter on the floating ice.
The work of discharging stores was at once commenced. To raise the
packages from the floe to the top of the ice-shelf, a "flying-fox" was
rigged.
"A kedge-anchor was buried in the sea-ice, and from this a
two-and-a-half-inch wire-hawser was led upwards over a pair of
sheer-legs on top of the cliff to another anchor buried some distance
back. The whole was set taut by a tackle. The stores were then slung to
a travelling pulley on the wire, and hauled on to the glacier by means
of a rope led through a second pulley on the sheer-legs. The ship's
company broke stores out of the hold and sledged them three hundred
yards to the foot of an aerial, where they were hooked on to the
travelling-block by which the shore party, under Wild, raised them to
their destination."
"It was most important to accelerate the landing as much as possible,
not only on account of the lateness of the season--the 'Gauss' had been
frozen in on February 22 at a spot only one hundred and seventy miles
away--but because the floe was gradually breaking up and floating away.
When the last load was hoisted, the water was lapping within ten yards
of the 'flying-fox'".
A fresh west-north-west wind on February 17 caused some trouble. Captain
Davis writes:
"February 19. The floe to which we have been attached is covered by
a foot of water. The ship has been bumping a good deal to-day.
Notwithstanding the keen wind and driving snow, every one has worked
well. Twelve tons of coal were the last item to go up the cliff."
In all, thirty-six tons of stores were raised on to the shelf-ice, one
hundred feet above sea-level, in four days.
"February 20. The weather is very fine and quite a contrast to
yesterday. We did not get the coal ashore a moment too soon, as
this morning the ice marked by our sledge tracks went to sea in a
north-westerly direction, and this afternoon it is drifting back as if
under the influence of a tide or current. We sail at 7 A.M. to-morrow.
"I went on to the glacier with Wild during the afternoon. It is somewhat
crevassed for about two hundred yards inland, and then a flat surface
stretches away as far as the eye can see. I wished the party 'God-speed'
this evening, as we sail early to-morrow."
Early on February 21, the ship's company gave their hearty farewell
cheers, and the 'Aurora' sailed north, leaving Wild and his seven
companions on the floating ice.
The bright weather of the immediate coastal region was soon exchanged
for the foggy gloom of the pack.
"February 21, 11 P.M. We are now passing a line of grounded bergs and
some heavy floe-ice. Fortunately it is calm, but in the darkness it is
difficult to see an opening. The weather is getting thick, and I expect
we shall have trouble in working through this line of bergs.
"February 22. I cannot explain how we managed to clear some of the bergs
between 11 P.M. last night and 3 A.M. this morning. At first stopping
and lying-to was tried, but it was soon evident that the big bergs were
moving and would soon hem us in: probably in a position from which we
should be unable to extricate ourselves this season.
"So we pushed this way and that, endeavouring to retain freedom at any
cost. For instance, about midnight I was 'starboarding' to clear what
appeared to be the loom of a berg on the starboard bow, when, suddenly,
out of the haze a wall seemed to stretch across our course. There was
no room to turn, so 'full speed astern' was the only alternative. The
engines responded immediately, or we must have crashed right into a huge
berg. Until daylight it was ice ahead, to port and to starboard--ice
everywhere all the time. The absence of wind saved us from disaster.
It was a great relief when day broke, showing clearer water to the
northward."
On February 23, the 'Aurora' left the shelter of Termination Ice-Tongue,
and a course was set nearly true north. There was a fresh breeze from
the north-east and a high sea. The ship was desperately short of ballast
and the coal had to be carefully husbanded. All movable gear was placed
in the bottom of the ship, while the ashes were saved, wetted and
put below. The ballast-tanks were found to be leaking and Gillies had
considerable trouble in making them watertight.
The distance from the Western Base in Queen Mary Land to Hobart was two
thousand three hundred miles, through the turbulent seas of the fifties
and forties. It was the end of a perilous voyage when the 'Aurora'
arrived in Hobart with nine tons of coal.
On March 12, the captain's log records:
"The 'Aurora' has done splendidly, beating all attempts of the weather
to turn her over. We had two heavy gales during the first week of March,
but reached Hobart safely to-day, passing on our way up the Derwent the
famous Polar ship, 'Fram', at anchor in Sandy Bay. Flags were dipped and
a hearty cheer given for Captain Amundsen and his gallant comrades who
had raised the siege of the South Pole."
CHAPTER V FIRST DAYS IN ADELIE LAND
The overcrowded whale-boat disgorged its cargo at 10 P.M. on the
ice-quay at Cape Denison. The only shelter was a cluster of four tents
and the Benzine Hut, so the first consideration was the erection of a
commodious living-hut.
While the majority retired to rest to be ready for a fresh burst of work
on the morrow, a few of us discussed the preliminary details, and struck
the first blows in the laying of the foundations.
A site for the living-hut was finally approved. This was a nearly flat
piece of rocky ground of just sufficient size, partially sheltered on
the southern side by a large upstanding rock. Other points to recommend
it were, proximity to the boat harbour and to a good sledging surface;
the ice of the glacier extending to the "front door" on the western
side. Several large rocks had to be shifted, and difficulty was
anticipated in the firm setting of the stumps. The latter were blocks
of wood, three feet in length, embedded in the ground, forming the
foundation of the structure. Unfortunately, no such thing as earth or
gravel existed in which to sink these posts, and the rock being of the
variety known as gneiss, was more than ordinarily tough.
Since two parties had combined, there were two huts available, and these
were to be erected so that the smaller adjoined and was in the lee of
the larger. The latter was to be the living-room; the former serving
as a vestibule, a workshop and an engine-room for the wireless plant.
Slight modifications were made in the construction of both huts,
but these did not affect the framework. After the completion of the
living-hut, regular scientific observations were to commence, and the
smaller hut was then to be built as opportunity offered.
Nothing has so far been said about the type of hut adopted by our
Antarctic stations. As the subject is important, and we had expended
much thought thereon before coming to a final decision, a few remarks
will not be out of place.
Strength to resist hurricanes, simplicity of construction, portability
and resistance to external cold were fundamental. My first idea was
to have the huts in the form of pyramids on a square base, to ensure
stability in heavy winds and with a large floor-area to reduce the
amount of timber used. The final type was designed at the expense of
floor-space, which would have been of little use because of the low
roof in the parts thus eliminated. In this form, the pyramid extended
to within five feet of the ground on the three windward sides so as to
include an outside veranda. That veranda, like the motor-launch, was a
wonderful convenience, and another of the many things of which we made
full use. It lent stability to the structure, assisted to keep the hut
warm, served as a store-house, physical laboratory and a dogshelter.
Round the outside of the three veranda walls boxes of stores were
stacked, so as to continue the roof-slope to the ground. Thus, the wind
striking the hut met no vertical face, but was partly deflected; the
other force-component tending to pin the building to the ground.
All three huts were essentially of the same construction. The
largest, on account of its breadth, had four special supporting posts,
symmetrically placed near the centre, stretching from the ground to the
roof framework. The only subdivisions inside were a small vestibule, a
photographic darkroom and my own room. This rough idea I had handed
over to Hodgeman, leaving him to complete the details and to draw up
the plans. The frame timbers he employed were stronger than usual in a
building of the size, and were all securely bolted together. The
walls and roof, both inside and outside, were of tongued and grooved
pine-boards, made extra wind-proof by two courses of tarred paper. As
rain was not expected, this roofing was sufficient. There were four
windows in the roof, one on each side of the pyramid. We should thereby
get light even though almost buried in snow.
[TEXT ILLUSTRATION]
Plan of the hut, Adelie Land
The largest hut was presented by the timber merchants of Sydney, and
proved its astonishing strength during the winter hurricanes. The
smallest was purchased in Adelaide, the third was built and presented by
Messrs. Anthony of Melbourne.
On the morning of January 20 all were at work betimes. As we were
securely isolated from a trades hall, our hours of labour ranged from 7
A.M. till
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