Journals of Expeditions of Discovery into Central Australia and Overland from Adelaide to King George's Sound in the Years 1840-1: Sent By the Colonists of South Australia, with the Sanction and Support of the Government: Including an Account of the Manners and Customs of the Aborigines and the State of Their Relations with Europeans — Volume 01
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Title: Journals of Expeditions of Discovery into Central Australia and Overland from Adelaide to King George's Sound in the Years 1840-1: Sent By the Colonists of South Australia, with the Sanction and Support of the Government: Including an Account of the Manners and Customs of the Aborigines and the State of Their Relations with Europeans — Volume 01
Author: Edward John Eyre
Release date: October 2, 2004 [eBook #5344]
Most recently updated: December 28, 2020
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/5344
Credits: Produced by Col Choat
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA AND OVERLAND FROM ADELAIDE TO KING GEORGE'S SOUND IN THE YEARS 1840-1: SENT BY THE COLONISTS OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA, WITH THE SANCTION AND SUPPORT OF THE GOVERNMENT: INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE ABORIGINES AND THE STATE OF THEIR RELATIONS WITH EUROPEANS — VOLUME 01 ***
Produced by Col Choat
PRODUCTION NOTES:
--Italics in the book have been changed to to upper case in this eBook.
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--A number of tables have been omitted or rendered incomplete. These are
indicated in the eBook at the point at which they occurred in the book.
--Plates and maps in the book have not been reproduced. A list of plates
forms part of the Table of Contents. There were 2 maps included in the
book. These indicated the extent of Eyre's journeys.
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JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA AND OVERLAND
FROM ADELAIDE TO KING GEORGE'S SOUND IN THE YEARS 1840-1: SENT BY THE
COLONISTS OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA, WITH THE SANCTION AND SUPPORT OF THE
GOVERNMENT: INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE
ABORIGINES AND THE STATE OF THEIR RELATIONS WITH EUROPEANS.
by EYRE, EDWARD JOHN (1815-1901)
TO LIEUT.-COLONEL GEORGE GAWLER, K.H. M.R.G.S.
UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES, AS GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA,
THE EXPEDITIONS, DESCRIBED IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES,
WERE UNDERTAKEN, THESE VOLUMES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,
AS A TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE FOR HIS KINDNESS AND RESPECT FOR HIS VIRTUES,
BY THE AUTHOR.
PREFACE.
In offering to the public an account of Expeditions of Discovery in
Australia, undertaken in the years 1840-1, and completed in July of the
latter year, some apology may be deemed necessary for this narrative not
having sooner appeared, or perhaps even for its being now published at
all.
With respect to the first, the author would remark that soon after his
return to South Australia upon the close of the Expeditions, and when
contemplating an immediate return to England, he was invited by the
Governor of the Colony to remain, and undertake the task of
re-establishing peace and amicable relations with the numerous native
tribes of the Murray River, and its neighbourhood, whose daring and
successful outrages in 1841, had caused very great losses to, and created
serious apprehensions among the Colonists.
Hoping that his personal knowledge of and extensive practical experience
among the Aborigines might prove serviceable in an employment of this
nature, the author consented to undertake it; and from the close of
September 1841, until December 1844, was unremittingly occupied with the
duties it entailed. It was consequently not in his power to attend to the
publication of his travels earlier, nor indeed can he regret a delay,
which by the facilities it afforded him of acquiring a more intimate
knowledge of the character and habits of the Aborigines, has enabled him
to render that portion of his work which relates to them more
comprehensive and satisfactory than it otherwise would have been.
With respect to the second point, or the reasons which have led to this
work being published at all, the author would observe that he has been
led to engage in it rather from a sense of duty, and at the instance of
many of his friends, than from any wish of his own. The greater portion
of the country he explored was of so sterile and worthless a description,
and the circumstances which an attempt to cross such a desert region led
to, were of so distressing a character, that he would not willingly have
revived associations, so unsatisfactory and so painful.
It has been his fate, however, to cross, during the course of his
explorations, a far greater extent of country than any Australian
traveller had ever done previously, and as a very large portion of this
had never before been trodden by the foot of civilized man, and from its
nature is never likely to be so invaded again, it became a duty to record
the knowledge which was thus obtained, for the information of future
travellers and as a guide to the scientific world in their inquiries into
the character and formation of so singular and interesting a country.
To enable the reader to judge of the author's capabilities for the task
he undertook, and of the degree of confidence that may be due to his
impressions or opinions, it may not be out of place to state, that the
Expeditions of 1840--1 were not entered upon without a sufficient
previous and practical experience in exploring.
For eight years the author had been resident in Australia, during which
he had visited many of the located parts of New South Wales, Port
Phillip, South Australia, Western Australia, and Van Diemen's Land. In
the years 1836, 1837, 1838, 1839, and 1840 he had conducted expeditions
across from Liverpool Plains in New South Wales to the county of Murray,
from Sydney to Port Phillip, from Port Phillip to Adelaide, and from King
George's Sound to Swan River, besides undertaking several explorations
towards the interior, both from Port Lincoln and from Adelaide.
To the knowledge and experience which were thus acquired, the author must
ascribe the confidence and good opinion of his fellow-colonists, which
led them in 1840 to place under his command an undertaking of such
importance, interest, and responsibility; and to these advantages he
feels that he is in a great measure indebted, under God's blessing, for
having been enabled successfully to struggle through the difficulties and
dangers which beset him, in crossing from Adelaide to King George's
Sound.
With this explanation for obtruding upon the public, the author would
also solicit their indulgence, for the manner in which the task has been
performed. The only merit to which he can lay claim, is that of having
faithfully described what he saw, and the impressions which were produced
upon him at the time. In other respects it is feared that a work, which
was entirely (and consequently very hastily) prepared for the press from
the original notes, whilst voyaging from Australia to England, must
necessarily be crude and imperfect. Where the principal object, however,
was rather to record with accuracy than indulge in theory or conjecture,
and where a simple statement of occurrences has been more attended to
than the language in which they are narrated, plainness and fidelity
will, it is hoped, be considered as some compensation for the absence of
the embellishments of a more finished style, or a studied composition,
and especially as the uncertainty attending the duration of the author's
visit to England made it a matter of anxious consideration to hurry these
volumes through the press as rapidly as possible. There is one
circumstance to which he wishes particularly to allude, as accounting for
the very scanty notices he is now able to give of the geology or botany
of the country through which he travelled; it is the loss of all the
specimens that were collected during the earlier part of the Expedition,
which occurred after they had been sent to Adelaide; this loss has been
irreparable, and has not only prevented him from ascertaining points
about which he was dubious, but has entirely precluded him from having
the subjects considered, or the specimens classified and arranged by
gentlemen of scientific acquirements in those departments of knowledge,
in which the author is conscious he is himself defective. In the latter
part of the Expedition, or from Fowler's Bay to King George's Sound, the
dreadful nature of the country, and the difficulties and disasters to
which this led, made it quite impossible either to make collections of
any kind, or to examine the country beyond the immediate line of route;
still it is hoped that the passing notices which are made in the journal,
and the knowledge of the similarity of appearance and uniform character,
prevalent throughout the greater portion of the country passed through,
will be quite sufficient to give a general and correct impression of the
whole.
To Mr. Gray of the British Museum, the author is particularly indebted
for his valuable contribution on the Natural History of the Southern
coast of Australia, and to Mr. Gould, the celebrated Ornithologist, his
thanks are equally due, for a classified and most interesting list of the
birds belonging to the same portion of the continent.
To Mr. Adam White, of the British Museum, he is also indebted for an
account of some new insects, and to Dr. Richardson, for a scientific and
classified arrangement of fish caught on the Southern coast, near King
George's Sound. The plates to which the numbers refer in the
last-mentioned paper, are the admirable drawings made from life, by J.
Neill, Esq. of King George's Sound, and now lodged at the British Museum.
They are, however, both too numerous and too large to give in a work of
this description, and will probably be published at some future time by
their talented author.
For the account given of the Aborigines the author deems it unnecessary
to offer any apology; a long experience among them, and an intimate
knowledge of their character, habits, and position with regard to
Europeans, have induced in him a deep interest on behalf of a people, who
are fast fading away before the progress of a civilization, which ought
only to have added to their improvement and prosperity. Gladly would the
author wish to see attention awakened on their behalf, and an effort at
least made to stay the torrent which is overwhelming them.
It is most lamentable to think that the progress and prosperity of one
race should conduce to the downfal and decay of another; it is still more
so to observe the apathy and indifference with which this result is
contemplated by mankind in general, and which either leads to no
investigation being made as to the cause of this desolating influence, or
if it is, terminates, to use the language of the Count Strzelecki, "in
the inquiry, like an inquest of the one race upon the corpse of the
other, ending for the most part with the verdict of 'died by the
visitation of God.'"
In his attempt to delineate the actual circumstances and position of the
natives, and the just claims they have upon public sympathy and
benevolence, he has been necessitated to refer largely to the testimony
of others, but in doing this he has endeavoured as far as practicable, to
support the views he has taken by the writings or opinions of those who
are, or who have been resident in the Colonies, and who might therefore
be supposed from a practical acquaintance with the subject, to be most
competent to arrive at just conclusions.
In suggesting the only remedy which appears at all calculated to mitigate
the evil complained of, it has studiously been kept in view that there
are the interests of two classes to be provided for, those of the
Settlers, and those of the Aborigines, it is thought that these interests
cannot with advantage be separated, and it is hoped that it may be found
practicable to blend them together.
The Aborigines of New Holland are not on the whole a numerous people;
they are generally of a very inoffensive and tractable character, and it
is believed that they may, under ordinary circumstances, almost always be
rendered peaceable and well-disposed by kind and consistent treatment.
Should this, in reality, prove to be the case, it may be found perhaps,
that they could be more easily managed, and in the long run at a less
expense, by some such system as is recommended, than by any other
requiring means of a more retaliatory or coercive character. The system
proposed is at least one which by removing in a great measure temptation
from the native, and thereby affording comparative security to the
settlers, will have a powerful effect in inducing the latter to unite
with the Government in any efforts made to ameliorate the condition of
the Aborigines; a union which under present or past systems has not ever
taken place, but one which it is very essential should be effected, if
any permanent good is hoped for.
To Mr. Moorhouse the author returns his best thanks for his valuable
notes on the Aborigines, to which he is indebted for the opportunity of
giving an account of many of the customs and habits of the Adelaide
tribes.
To Anthony Forster, Esq. he offers his warmest acknowledgments for his
assistance in overlooking the manuscripts during the voyage from
Australia, and correcting many errors which necessarily resulted from the
hurried manner in which they were prepared; it is to this kind
supervision must be ascribed the merit--negative though it may be--of
there not being more errors than there are.
CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.
CHAPTER I.
ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION--CONTEMPLATED EXPLORATION TO THE
WESTWARD--MEETING OF THE COLONISTS, AND SUBSCRIPTIONS ENTERED INTO FOR
THAT PURPOSE--NOTES ON THE UNFAVOURABLE NATURE OF THE COUNTRY TO THE
WESTWARD, AND PROPOSAL THAT THE NORTHERN INTERIOR SHOULD BE EXAMINED
INSTEAD--MAKE AN OFFER TO THE GOVERNOR TO CONDUCT SUCH AN
EXPEDITION--CAPTAIN STURT'S LECTURE--INTERVIEW WITH THE
GOVERNOR--ARRANGEMENT OF PLANS--PREPARATION OF OUTFIT--COST OF
EXPEDITION--NAME A DAY FOR DEPARTURE--PUBLIC BREAKFAST AND COMMENCEMENT
OF THE UNDERTAKING
CHAPTER II.
FIRST NIGHT'S ENCAMPMENT WITH PARTY--REFLECTIONS--ARRIVAL AT SHEEP
STATION--RE-ARRANGEMENTS OF LOADS--METHOD OF CARRYING FIRE-ARMS--COMPLETE
THE NUMBER OF THE PARTY--THEIR NAMES--MOVE ONWARDS--VALLEY OF THE
LIGHT--EXTENSIVE PLAINS--HEAD OF THE GILBERT--SCARCITY OF
FIREWOOD--GRASSY WELL-WATERED DISTRICTS--THE HILL AND HUTT
RIVERS--INDICATION OF CHANGE GOING ON IN APPEARANCE AND CHARACTER OF THE
COUNTRY, TRACEABLE IN THE REMAINS OF TIMBER IN THE PLAINS AND IN THE
OPENINGS AMONG SCRUBS--THE BROUGHTON--REEDY WATERCOURSE--CAMPBELL'S
RANGE--COURSE OF THE BROUGHTON
CHAPTER III.
SPRING HILL--AN AGED NATIVE DESERTED BY HIS TRIBE--RICH AND EXTENSIVE
PLAINS--SURPRISE A PARTY OF NATIVES--ROCKY RIVER--CRYSTAL BROOK--FLINDERS
RANGE--THE DEEP SPRING--MYALL PONDS--ROCKY WATER HOLES--DRY
WATERCOURSE--REACH THE DEPOT NEAR MOUNT ARDEN--PREPARE FOR LEAVING THE
PARTY--BLACK SWANS PASS TO THE NORTH--ARRIVAL OF THE WATERWITCH
CHAPTER IV.
MAKE ARRANGEMENTS FOR GETTING UP STORES FROM THE WATERWITCH--LEAVE THE
PARTY--SALT WATERCOURSE--MOUNT EYRE--ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY--LAKE
TORRENS--RETURN TOWARDS THE HILLS--NATIVE FEMALE--SALINE CHARACTER OF THE
COUNTRY--MOUNT DECEPTION--REACH THE EASTERN HILLS--LARGE
WATERCOURSES--WATER HOLE IN A ROCK--GRASSY BUT HILLY COUNTRY--RUNNING
STREAM--ASCEND A RANGE--RETURN HOMEWARDS--DECAY OF TREES IN THE
WATERCOURSES--SHOOT A KANGAROO--ARRIVE AT THE DEPOT--BURY STORES--MAKE
PREPARATIOUS FOR LEAVING--SEUD DESPATCHES TO THE VESSEL
CHAPTER V.
BREAK UP THE ENCAMPMENT--ARRIVE AT DEPOT POOL--GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER OF
THE COUNTRY--BAROMETERS OUT OF ORDER--ADVANCE TO RECONNOITRE--ASCEND
TERMINATION HILL--SURPRISE NATIVE WOMEN--THEY ABANDON THEIR
CHILDREN--INEFFECTUAL SEARCH FOR WATER--RETURN TOWARDS MOUNT
DECEPTION--BROKEN CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--FIND WATER--THE SCOTT--REJOIN
THE PARTY--WATER ALL USED AT THE DEPOT--EMBARRASSING
CIRCUMSTANCES--REMOVE TO THE SCOTT--RECONNOITRE IN ADVANCE--BARREN
COUNTRY--TABLE-TOPPED ELEVATIONS--INDICATIONS OF THE VIOLENT ACTION OF
WATER--MEET NATIVES--REACH LAKE TORRENS--THE WATER SALT--OBLIGED TO
RETURN--ARRIVAL AT DEPOT--HOSTILE DEMONSTRATIONS OF THE NATIVES.
CHAPTER VI.
CAUSE OF HOSTILITY OF THE NATIVES--WELL SUNK UNSUCCESSFULLY--OVERSEER
SENT TO THE EAST--THE SCOTT EXAMINED--ROCK WALLUBIES--OVERSEER'S
RETURN--ANOTHER VISIT TO LAKE TORRENS--BOGGY CHARACTER OF ITS
BED--EXTRAORDINARY EFFECTS OF MIRAGE AND REFRACTION--RETURN TO THE
CAMP--SUPPLY OF WATER EXHAUSTED--LEAVE THE DEPOT--THE MUNDY--THE
BURR--MOUNT SERLE--LAKE TORRENS TO THE EAST--MELANCHOLY PROSPECTS
CHAPTER VII.
EXCURSION TO THE NORTH-EAST--TRACE DOWN THE FROME--WATER BECOMES
SALT--PASS BEYOND THE RANGES--COCKATOOS SEEN--HEAVY RAINS--DRY
WATERCOURSES--MOUNT DISTANCE--BRINE SPRINGS--MOUNT HOPELESS--TERMINATION
OF FLINDERS RANGE--LAKE TORRENS TO THE NORTH AND TO THE EAST--ALL FURTHER
ADVANCE HOPELESS--YOUNG EMUS CAUGHT--REJOIN PARTY--MOVE BACK TOWARDS
MOUNT ARDEN--LOSS OF A HORSE--ARRIVE AT THE DEPOT--PLANS FOR THE
FUTURE--TAKE UP STORES--PREPARE FOR LEAVING
CHAPTER VIII.
PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD--CHANNEL OF COMMUNICATION BETWEEN LAKE TORRENS
AND SPENCER'S GULF--BAXTER'S RANGE--DIVIDE THE PARTY--ROUTE TOWARDS PORT
LINCOLN--SCRUB--FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR WATER--SEND DRAY BACK FOR
WATER--PLUNDERED BY THE NATIVES--RETURN OF DRAY--DENSE SCRUB--REFUGE
ROCKS--DENSE SCRUB--SALT CREEK--MOUNT HILL--DENSE SCRUB--LARGE
WATERCOURSE--ARRIVE AT A STATION--RICH AND GRASSY VALLEYS--CHARACTER OF
PORT LINCOLN PENINSULA--UNABLE TO PROCURE SUPPLIES--ENGAGE A BOAT TO SEND
OVER TO ADELAIDE--BUY SHEEP
CHAPTER IX.
BOY SPEARED BY THE NATIVES--ANOMALOUS STATE OF OUR RELATIONS WITH THE
ABORIGINES--MR. SCOTT SAILS FOR ADELAIDE--DOG BOUGHT--MR. SCOTT'S
RETURN--CUTTER WATERWITCH SENT TO CO-OPERATE--SEND HER TO STREAKY
BAY--LEAVE PORT LINCOLN WITH THE DRAY--LEVEL SANDY COUNTRY CLOTHED WITH
BRUSH AND SHRUBS--SALT LAKES--MOUNT HOPE--LAKE HAMILTON--STONY
COUNTRY--LOSE A DOG--BETTER COUNTRY--WEDGE HILL--LAKE NEWLAND--A BOAT
HARBOUR--MOUNT HALL--REJOIN PARTY AT STREAKY BAY--SINGULAR
SPRING--CHARACTER OF COUNTRY--BEDS OF OYSTERS
CHAPTER X.
COUNTRY BETWEEN STREAKY BAY AND BAXTER'S RANGE--ITS SCRUBBY
CHARACTER--GAWLER RANGE--MOUNT STURT--ASCEND A PEAK--SALT
LAKES--BEAUTIFUL FLOWER--ASCEND ANOTHER BILL--MOUNT BROWN SEEN--EXTENSIVE
VIEW TO THE NORTH--LAKE GILLES--BAXTER'S RANGE
CHAPTER XI.
EMBARK STORES--PARTY LEAVE STREAKY BAY--DENSE SCRUB--POINT
BROWN--SINGULAR WELL--PROCESS OF CHANGE IN APPEARANCE OF COUNTRY--DIG FOR
WATER--FRIENDLY NATIVES--EXTRAORDINARY RITE--NATIVE GUIDES--LEIPOA'S
NEST--DENIAL BAY--BEELIMAH GAIPPE--KANGAROO KILLED--MORE
NATIVES--BERINYANA GAIPPE--SALT LAKES--WADEMAR GAIPPE--SANDY AND SCRUBBY
COUNTRY--MOBEELA GAIPPE--DIFFICULTY OF GETTING WATER--MORE
NATIVES--GENUINE HOSPITALITY--SINGULAR MARKS ON THE ABDOMEN--NATIVES
LEAVE THE PARTY--FOWLER'S BAY--EXCELLENT WHALING STATION.
CHAPTER XII.
LAND THE STORES AND SEND THE CUTTER TO DENIAL BAY--PARTY REMOVE TO POINT
FOWLER--LEAVE THE PARTY--BEDS OF LAKES--DENSE SCRUB--COAST
SAND-DRIFTS--FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR WATER--DISTRESS OF THE HORSES--TURN
BACK--LEAVE A HORSE--FIND WATER--REJOIN PARTY--SEND FOR THE
HORSE--COUNTRY AROUND DEPOT--TAKE A DRAY TO THE WESTWARD--WRETCHED
COUNTRY--FALL IN WITH NATIVES--MISUNDERSTAND THEIR SIGNS--THEY LEAVE
US--VAIN SEARCH FOR WATER--TURN BACK--HORSE KNOCKED UP--GO BACK FOR
WATER--REJOIN THE DRAY--COMMENCE RETURN--SEARCH FOR WATER--DRAY
SURROUNDED BY NATIVES--EMBARRASSING SITUATION--BURY BAGGAGE--THREE HORSES
ABANDONED--REACH THE SAND-DRIFTS--UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPTS TO SAVE THE
HORSES--SEND FOR FRESH HORSES--SEARCH FOR WATER TO NORTH-EAST--RECOVER
THE DRAY AND STORES--REJOIN THE PARTY AT DEPOT NEAR POINT FOWLER--RETURN
OF THE CUTTER
CHAPTER XIII.
FUTURE PLANS--REDUCE THE NUMBER OF THE PARTY--SEND THE CUTTER TO
ADELAIDE--REPORT TO THE GOVERNOR--MONOTONOUS LIFE AT CAMP--REMOVE TO
ANOTHER LOCALITY--GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--FLINT FOUND--AGAIN
ATTEMPT TO REACH THE HEAD OF THE BIGHT--REACH THE SAND-HILLS, AND BURY
FLOUR--FRIENDLY NATIVES--EXHAUSTED STATE OF THE HORSES--GET THE DRAY TO
THE PLAIN--BURY WATER--SEND BACK DRAY--PROCEED WITH
PACK-HORSE--OPPRESSIVE HEAT--SEND BACK PACK-HORSE--REACH THE HEAD OF THE
BIGHT--SURPRISE SOME NATIVES--THEIR KIND
BEHAVIOUR--YEER-KUMBAN-KAUWE--THEIR ACCOUNT OF THE INTERIOR
CHAPTER XIV.
PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD--CLIFF'S OF THE GREAT BIGHT--LEVEL NATURE OF THE
INTERIOR--FLINTS ABOUND--RETURN TO YEER-KUMBAN-KAUWE--NATIVES COME TO THE
CAMP--THEIR GENEROUS CONDUCT--MEET THE OVERSEER--RETURN TO DEPOT--BAD
WATER--MOVE BACK TO FOWLER'S BAY--ARRIVAL OF THE CUTTER HERO--JOINED BY
THE KING GEORGE'S SOUND NATIVE--INSTRUCTIONS RELATIVE TO THE
HERO--DIFFICULTY OF FIXING UPON ANY FUTURE PLAN--BREAK UP THE EXPEDITION
AND DIVIDE THE PARTY--MR. SCOTT EMBARKS--FINAL REPORT--THE HERO
SAILS--OVERSEER AND NATIVES REMAIN--EXCURSION TO THE NORTH--A NATIVE
JOINS US--SUDDEN ILLNESS IN THE PARTY--FINAL PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING THE
DEPOT
CHAPTER XV.
RETURN OF MR. SCOTT IN THE HERO--MR. SCOTT AGAIN SAILS FOR
ADELAIDE--COMMENCE JOURNEY TO THE WESTWARD--OPPORTUNE ARRIVAL AT THE
SAND-HILLS--LARGE FLIES--TAKE ON THE SHEEP--LEAVE THE OVERSEER WITH THE
HORSES--REACH YEER-KUMBAN-KAUWE--JOINED BY THE OVERSEER--TORMENTING FLIES
AGAIN--MOVE ON WITH THE SHEEP--LEAVE OVERSEER TO FOLLOW WITH THE
HORSES--CHARACTER OF COUNTRY ALONG THE BIGHT--SCENERY OF THE
CLIFFS--LEAVE THE SHEEP--ANXIETY ABOUT WATER--REACH THE TERMINATION OF
THE CLIFFS--FIND WATER
CHAPTER XVI.
GO BACK TO MEET THE OVERSEER--PARTY ARRIVE AT THE WATER--LONG
ENCAMPMENT--GEOLOGICAL FORMATION OF THE CLIFFS--MOVE ON AGAIN--DIG FOR
WATER--TRACES OF NATIVES--SEND BACK FOR WATER--PARROTS SEEN--COOL WINDS
FROM NORTH-EAST--OVERSEER RETURNS--CONTINUE THE JOURNEY--ABANDON
BAGGAGE--DENSE SCRUBS--DRIVEN TO THE BEACH--MEET NATIVES--MODE OF
PROCURING WATER FROM ROOTS
CHAPTER XVII.
HORSES BEGIN TO KNOCK UP--COMPELLED TO FOLLOW ROUND THE BEACH--TIMOR PONY
UNABLE TO PROCEED--GLOOMY PROSPECTS--OVERSEER BEGINS TO DESPOND--TWO MORE
HORSES LEFT BEHIND--FRAGMENTS OF WRECKS--WATER ALL CONSUMED--COLLECT
DEW--CHANGE IN CHARACTER OF COUNTRY--DIG A WELL--PROCURE WATER--NATIVE
AND FAMILY VISIT US--OVERSEER GOES BACK FOR BAGGAGE--DISASTROUS
TERMINATION OF HIS JOURNEY--SITUATION AND PROSPECTS OF THE PARTY
CHAPTER XVIII.
GO BACK WITH A NATIVE--SPEAR STING-RAYS--RECOVER THE BAGGAGE--COLD
WEATHER--OVERSEER RECONNOITRES THE CLIFFS--UNFAVOURABLE
REPORT--DIFFERENCE OF OPINION AS TO BEST PLANS FOR THE FUTURE--KILL A
HORSE FOR FOOD--INJURIOUS EFFECTS FROM MEAT DIET--NATIVE BOYS BECOME
DISAFFECTED--THEY STEAL PROVISIONS--NATIVE BOYS DESERT THE PARTY--THEY
RETURN ALMOST STARVED--PARTY PROCEED ONWARDS TO THE WESTWARD--CLIFFS OF
THE BIGHT--COUNTRY BEHIND THEM--THREATENING WEATHER--MURDER OF THE
OVERSEER
APPENDIX.
DESCRIPTION OF SOME NEW AUSTRALIAN ANIMALS, BY J. E. GRAY, ESQ. F.R.S.
CATALOGUE OF REPTILES AND FISH, FOUND AT KING GEORGE'S SOUND, BY DEPUTY
ASSISTANT COMMISSARY--GENERAL NEILL. THE REPTILES NAMED AND ARRANGED BY
J. E. GRAY, ESQ., AND THE FISH BY DR. RICHARDSON DESCRIPTION AND FIGURES
OF FOUR NEW SPECIES OF AUSTRALIAN INSECTS, BY ADAM WHITE, ESQ. M.E.S.
DESCRIPTION OF TWO NEW INVERTEBRATED ANIMALS FROM AUSTRALIA, BY J. E.
GRAY, ESQ. F.R.S.
DESCRIPTION OF SOME NEW AUSTRALIAN LEPIDOPTEROUS INSECTS, BY EDWARD
DOUBLEDAY, ESQ. F.R.S. etc.
LIST OF BIRDS KNOWN TO INHABIT SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA, BY JOHN GOULD,
ESQ. F.R.S.
LIST OF PLATES--VOLUME I.
Tenberry, with Wife and Child, drawn by G. Hamilton
Departure of the Expedition drawn by G. Hamilton
Opossum-hunting at Gawler Plains
Native Graves
Wylie (J. Neil)
Plate I.--New Toads and Frogs
Plate II.--New Frogs and new Bat
Plate III.--New Insects
Plate IV.--New Cray-fish
Plate V.--New Shells
Plate VI.--New Butterflies
VOLUME I
JOURNAL OF EXPEDITIONS IN CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA IN 1840.
Chapter I.
ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION--CONTEMPLATED EXPLORATION TO THE
WESTWARD--MEETING OF THE COLONISTS AND SUBSCRIPTIONS ENTERED INTO FOR
THAT PURPOSE--NOTES ON THE UNFAVOURABLE NATURE OF THE COUNTRY TO THE
WESTWARD, AND PROPOSAL THAT THE NORTHERN INTERIOR SHOULD BE EXAMINED
INSTEAD--MAKE AN OFFER TO THE GOVERNOR TO CONDUCT SUCH AN
EXPEDITION--CAPTAIN STURT'S LECTURE--INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR,
ARRANGEMENT OF PLANS--PREPARATION OF OUTFIT--COST OF EXPEDITION--NAME A
DAY FOR DEPARTURE--PUBLIC BREAKFAST AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE UNDERTAKING.
Before entering upon the account of the expedition sent to explore the
interior of Australia, to which the following pages refer, it may perhaps
be as well to advert briefly to the circumstances which led to the
undertaking itself, that the public being fully in possession of the
motives and inducements which led me, at a very great sacrifice of my
private means, to engage in an exploration so hazardous and arduous, and
informed of the degree of confidence reposed in me by those interested in
the undertaking, and the sanguine hopes and high expectations that were
formed as to the result, may be better able to judge how far that
confidence was well placed, and how far my exertions were commensurate
with the magnitude of the responsibility I had undertaken.
I have felt it the more necessary to allude to this subject now, because
I was in some measure at the time instrumental in putting a stop to a
contemplated expedition to the westward, and of thus unintentionally
interfering with the employment of a personal friend of my own, than whom
no one could have been more fitted to command an undertaking of the kind,
from his amiable disposition, his extensive experience, and his general
knowledge and acquirements.
Upon returning, about the middle of May 1840, from a visit to King
George's Sound and Swan River, I found public attention in Adelaide
considerably engrossed with the subject of an overland communication
between Southern and Western Australia. Captain Grey, now the Governor of
South Australia, had called at Adelaide on his way to England from King
George's Sound, and by furnishing a great deal of interesting information
relative to Western Australia, and pointing out the facilities that
existed on its eastern frontier, as far as it was then known, for the
entrance of stock from the Eastward, had called the attention of the
flock-masters of the Colony to the importance of opening a communication
between the two places, with a view to the extension of their pastoral
interests. The notes of Captain Grey, referring to this subject, were
published in the South Australian Register newspaper of the 28th March,
1840. On the 30th of the same month, a number of gentlemen, many of whom
were owners of large flocks and herds, met together, for the purpose of
taking the matter into consideration, and the result of this conference
was the appointment of a Committee, whose duty it was to report upon the
best means of accomplishing the object in view. On the 4th, 7th, and 9th
of April other meetings were held, and the results published in the South
Australian Register, of the 11th April, as follows:--
OVERLAND ROUTE TO WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
At a Meeting of the Committee for making arrangements for an expedition
to explore an overland route to Western Australia, held the 7th of April,
the Hon. the Surveyor-general in the chair, the following resolutions
were agreed to:--
That a communication be made to the Government of Western Australia,
detailing the objects contemplated by this Committee, and further stating
that the assistance of the Government of this province has been obtained.
That a communication be made to the Hon. the Surveyor-general, the Hon.
the Advocate-general the Hon. G. Leake, Esq. of Western Australia, with a
request that they will form a committee in conjunction with such settlers
as may feel interested in the same undertaking, for the purpose of
collecting private subscriptions, and co-operating with this committee.
Resolved, that similar communications be made to the Government of New
South Wales, and to the following gentlemen who are requested to act as a
committee with the same power as that of Western Australia: Hon. E. Deas
Thomson, Colonial Secretary; William Macarthur, Esq.; Captain Parker; P.
King, R.N.; Stuart Donaldson, Esq.; George Macleay, Esq.; Charles
Campbell, Esq.
That this Committee would propose, in order to facilitate the progress of
the expedition, that depots be formed at convenient points on the route;
that it is proposed to make Fowler's Bay the first depot on the route
from Adelaide, and to leave it to the Government of Western Australia to
decide upon the sites which their local knowledge may point out as the
most eligible for similar stations, as far to the eastward as may appear
practicable.
That a subscription list be immediately opened in Adelaide to collect
funds in aid of the undertaking.
That R. F. Newland, Esq., be requested to act as Treasurer to this
Committee, and that subscriptions be received at the Banks of Australasia
and South Australia.
E. C. FROME, Chairman.
CHAS. BONNEY, Secretary.
The Committee again met on the 9th April--the Hon. the Assistant
Commissioner in the chair. It was resolved that the following statement
head the subscription list:--
Several meetings having taken place at Adelaide of persons interested in
the discovery of an overland route to Western Australia, and it being the
general opinion of those meetings that such an enterprise would very
greatly benefit the colonists of Eastern, Southern, and Western
Australia, it was determined to open subscriptions for the furtherance of
this most desirable object under the direction of the following
Committee:
G. A. Anstey, Esq. John Knott, Esq.
Charles Bonney, Esq. Duncan M'Farlane, Esq.
John Brown, Esq. David McLaren, Esq.
Edward Eyre, Esq. John Morphett, Esq.
John Finniss, Esq. Chas. Mann, Esq.
J. H. Fisher, Esq. R. F. Newland, Esq.
Lieutenant Frome, Dr. Rankin. Esq.
Surveyor-general G. Stevenson, Esq.
O. Gilles, Esq. F. Stephens, Esq.
Captain Grey W. Smilie, Esq.
J. B. Hack, Esq. T. B. Strangwaya, Esq.
G. Hamilton, Esq. Capt. Sturt, Ass. Com.
Ephraim Howe, Esq. John Walker, Esq.
The very great importance of the undertaking as leading to results, and
in all probability to discoveries, the benefits of which are at present
unforeseen, but which, like the opening of the Murray to this Province,
may pave the way to a high road from hence to Western Australia, will, it
is hoped meet with that support from the public which undertakings of
great national interest deserve, and which best evince the enterprise and
well-doing of a rising colony.
That Captain Grey, being about to embark for England, the Committee
cannot allow him to quit these shores without expressing their regret
that his stay has been so short, and the sense they entertain of the
great interest he has evinced in the welfare of the colony, and the
disinterested support he has given an enterprise which is likely to lead
to such generally beneficial results as that under consideration.
CHAS. STURT, Chairman.
CHAS. BONNEY, Secretary.
LIST OF SUBSCRIPTIONS RECEIVED YESTERDAY.
The Government of South Australia 200 pounds
His Excellency the Governor
(absent at Port Lincoln)
and the Colonists 349 pounds 10 shillings
Such was the state in which I found the question on my return from
Western Australia. All had been done that was practicable, until answers
were received from the other Colonies, replying to the applications for
assistance and co-operation in the proposed undertaking.
Having been always greatly interested in the examination of this vast but
comparatively unknown continent, and having already myself been
frequently engaged in long and harassing explorations, it will not be
deemed surprising that I should at once have turned my attention to the
subject so prominently occupying the public mind. I have stated that the
principal object proposed to be attained by the expedition to the
westward, was that of opening a route for the transit of stock from one
colony to the other--nay it was even proposed and agreed to by a majority
of the gentlemen attending the public meeting that the first party of
exploration should be accompanied by cattle. Now, from my previous
examination of the country to the westward of the located parts of South
Australia, I had in 1839 fully satisfied myself, not only of the
difficulty, but of the utter impracticability of opening an overland
route for stock in that direction, and I at once stated my opinion to
that effect, and endeavoured to turn the general attention from the
Westward to the North, as being the more promising opening, either for
the discovery of a good country, or of an available route across the
continent. The following extract, from a paper by me on the subject, was
published in the South Australian Register of the 23rd May, 1840, and
contains my opinion at that time of the little prospect there was of any
useful result accruing from the carrying out of the proposed expedition
to the Westward:--
"It may now, therefore, be a question for those who are interested in the
sending an expedition overland to the Swan River to consider what are
likely to be the useful results from such a journey. In a geographical
point of view it will be exceedingly interesting to know the character of
the intervening country between this colony and theirs, and to unfold the
secrets hidden by those lofty, and singular cliffs at the head of the
Great Bight, and so far, it might perhaps be practicable--since it is
possible that a light party might, in a favourable season, force their
way across. As regards the transit of stock, however, my own conviction
is that it is quite impracticable. The vast extent of desert country to
the westward--the scarcity of grass--the denseness of the scrub--and the
all but total absence of water, even in the most favourable seasons, are
in themselves, sufficient bars to the transit of stock, even to a
distance we are already acquainted with. I would rather, therefore, turn
the public attention to the Northward, as being the most probable point
from which discoveries of importance may be made, or such as are likely
to prove beneficial to this and the other colonies, and from which it is
possible the veil may be lifted, from the still unknown and mysterious
interior of this vast continent."
On the 27th I dined with His Excellency the Governor, and had a long
conversation with him on the subject of the proposed Western Expedition,
and on the exploration of the Northern Interior. With his usual anxiety
to promote any object which he thought likely to benefit the colony, and
advance the cause of science, His Excellency expressed great interest in
the examination of the Northern Interior, and a desire that an attempt
should be made to penetrate its recesses during the ensuing season.
As I had been the means of diverting public attention from a Western to a
Northern exploration, so was I willing to encounter myself the risks and
toils of the undertaking I had suggested, and I therefore at once
volunteered to His Excellency to take the command of any party that might
be sent out, to find one-third of the number of horses required, and pay
one-third of the expenses. Two days after this a lecture was delivered at
the Mechanics' Institute in Adelaide, by Captain Sturt, upon the
Geography and Geology of Australia, at the close of which that gentleman
acquainted the public with the proposal I had made to the Governor, and
the sanction and support which His Excellency was disposed to give it.
The following extract is from Captain Sturt's address, and shews the
disinterested and generous zeal which that talented and successful
traveller was ever ready to exert on behalf of those who were inclined to
follow the career of enterprise and ambition in which he had with such
distinction led the way.
"Before I conclude, however, having drawn your attention to the science
of geology, I would for a moment dwell on that of geography, and the
benefit the pursuit and study of it has been to mankind. To geography we
owe all our knowledge of the features of the earth's surface, our
intercourse with distant nations, and our enjoyments of numberless
comforts and luxuries. The sister sciences of geography and hydrography
have enabled us to pursue our way to any quarter of the habitable and
uninhabitable world. With the history of geography, moreover, our
proudest feelings are associated. Where are there names dearer to us than
those of the noble and devoted Columbus, of Sebastian Cabot, of Cook, of
Humboldt, and of Belzoni and La Perouse? Where shall we find the generous
and heroic devotion of the explorers of Africa surpassed? Of Denham, of
Clapperton, of Oudeny, and of the many who have sacrificed their valuable
lives to the pestilence of that climate or to the ferocity of its
inhabitants?--And where shall we look for the patient and persevering
endurance of Parry, of Franklin, and of Back, in the northern regions of
eternal snow? If, ladies and gentlemen, fame were to wreathe a crown to
the memory of such men, there would not be a leaf in it without a name.
The region of discovery was long open to the ambitious, but the energy
and perseverance of man has now left but little to be done in that once
extensive and honourable field. The shores of every continent have been
explored--the centre of every country has been penetrated save that of
Australia--thousands of pounds have been expended in expeditions to the
Poles--but this country, round which a girdle of civilization is forming,
is neglected, and its recesses, whether desert or fertile, are unsought
and unexplored. What is known of the interior is due rather to private
enterprise than to public energy. Here then there is still a field for
the ambitious to tread. Over the centre of this mighty continent there
hangs a veil which the most enterprising might be proud to raise. The
path to it, I would venture to say, is full of difficulty and danger; and
to him who first treads it much will be due. I, who have been as far as
any, have seen danger and difficulty thicken around me as I advanced, and
I cannot but anticipate the same obstacles to the explorer, from whatever
point of these extreme shores he may endeavour to force his way.
Nevertheless, gentlemen, I shall envy that man who shall first plant the
flag of our native country in the centre of our adopted one. There is not
one deed in those days to be compared with it, and to whoever may
undertake so praiseworthy and so devoted a task, I wish that success,
which Heaven sometimes vouchsafes to those who are actuated by the first
of motives--the public good; and the best of principles--a reliance on
Providence. I would I myself could undertake such a task, but fear that
may not be. However, there is a gentleman among us, who is auxious to
undertake such a journey. He has calculated that in taking a party five
hundred miles into the interior, the expense would not be more than 300
pounds and the price of ten horses. At a meeting held some time ago, on
this very subject, about half that sum was subscribed.--His Excellency
the Governor has kindly promised to give 100 pounds, and two horses--and
I think we may very soon make up the remainder; and thus may set out an
expedition which may explore the as yet unknown interior of this vast
continent, which may be the means, by discovery, of conferring a lasting
benefit on the colony--and hand down to posterity the name of the person
who undertakes it."
On the same day I received a note from the private secretary, stating
that the Governor wished to see me, and upon calling on His Excellency I
had a long and interesting interview on the subject of the expedition, in
the course of which arrangements were proposed and a plan of operations
entered into. I found in His Excellency every thing that was kind and
obliging. Sincerely desirous to confer a benefit upon the colony over
which he presided, he was most anxious that the expedition should be
fitted out in as complete and efficient a manner as possible, and to
effect this every assistance in his power was most frankly and freely
offered. In addition to the sanction and patronage of the government and
the contribution of 100 pounds, towards defraying the expenses, His
Excellency most kindly offered me the selection of any two horses I
pleased, from among those belonging to the police, and stated, that if I
wished for the services of any of the men in the public employment they
should be permitted to accompany me on the journey. The Colonial cutter,
WATERWITCH, was also most liberally offered, and thankfully accepted, to
convey a part of the heavy stores and equipment to the head of Spencer's
Gulf, that so far, the difficulties of the land journey to that point, at
least, might be lessened.
I was now fairly pledged to the undertaking, and as the winter was
rapidly advancing, I became most anxious to get all preparations made as
soon as possible to enable me to take advantage of the proper season. On
the first of June I commenced the necessary arrangements for organizing
my party, and getting ready the equipment required. To assist me in these
duties, and to accompany me as a companion in the journey, I engaged Mr.
Edward Bate Scott, an active, intelligent and steady young friend, who
had already been a voyage with me to Western Australia, and had travelled
with me overland from King George's Sound to Swan River.
Meetings of the colonists interested in the undertaking were again held
on the 2nd and 5th of June, at which subscriptions were entered into for
carrying out the object of the expedition; and a brief outline of my
plans was given by the Chairman, Captain Sturt, in the following extract
from his address.
"The Chairman went on to state, that Mr. Eyre would first proceed to Lake
Torrens and examine it, and then penetrate as far inland in a northerly
direction as would be found practicable. With regard to an observation
which he (the Chairman) had made on Friday evening, regarding this
continent having been formerly an archipelago, he stated, that he was of
opinion that a considerable space of barren land in all probability
existed between this district and what had formerly been the next island.
This space was likely to be barren, though of course it would be
impossible to say how far it extended. He had every reason to believe,
from what he had seen of the Australian continent, that at some distance
to the northward, a large tract of barren country would be found, or
perhaps a body of water, beyond which, a good country would in all
probability exist. The contemplated expedition, he hoped would set
supposition at rest--and as the season was most favourable, and Mr. Eyre
had had much personal experience in exploring, he had no doubt but the
expedition would be successful. The eyes of all the Australasian
colonies--nay, he might say of Britain--are on the colonists of South
Australia in this matter; and he felt confident that the result would be
most beneficial, not only to this Province, but also to New South Wales
and the Australian colonies generally--for the success of one settlement
is, in a measure, the success of the others."
An advertisement, published in the Adelaide Journals of 13th June, shewed
the progress that had been made towards collecting subscriptions for the
undertaking, and the spirited and zealous manner in which the colonists
entered into the project. Up to that date the sum of 541 pounds 17
shillings 5 pence had been collected and paid into the Bank of Australia.
Having now secured the necessary co-operation and assistance, my
arrangements proceeded rapidly and unremittingly, whilst the kindness of
the Governor, the Committee of colonists, my private friends and the
public generally, relieved me of many difficulties and facilitated my
preparations in a manner such as I could hardly have hoped or expected.
Every one seemed interested in the undertaking, and anxious to promote
its success; zeal and energy and spirit were infused among all connected
with it, and everything went on prosperously.
In addition to the valuable aid which I received from his Excellency the
Governor, I was particularly indebted to Captain Frome the
Surveyor-general, Captain Sturt the Assistant-commissioner, and Thomas
Gilbert, Esq. the Colonial storekeeper, for unceasing kindness and
attention, and for much important assistance rendered to me by the loan
of books and instruments, the preparation of charts, and the fitting up
of drays, etc. etc.
Captain Frome, too, now laid me under increased obligations by giving up
his own servant, Corporal Coles of the Royal Sappers and Miners, upon my
expressing a wish to take him with me, and the Governor sanctioning his
going.
This man had accompanied Captain Grey in all his expeditions on the
North-west coast of New Holland--and had been highly recommended by that
traveller; he was a wheelwright by trade, and being a soldier was likely
to prove a useful and valuable addition to my party; and I afterwards
found him a most obliging, willing and attentive person.
To the Governor and to the Committee of colonists I owe many thanks, for
the very flattering and gratifying confidence they reposed in me, a
confidence which left me as unrestricted in my detail of outfit and
equipment, as I was unfettered in my plan of operations in the field.
This enabled me to avoid unnecessary delays, and to hasten every thing
forward as rapidly as possible, so that when requested by the Governor to
name a day for my departure I was enabled to fix upon the 18th of June.
Having already done all in their power to forward and assist the
equipment and arrangement of the expedition, the Governor and Mrs. Gawler
were determined still further to increase the heavy debt of gratitude
which I was already under to them, by inviting myself and party to meet
the friends of the expedition at Government House on the morning of our
departure, that by a public demonstration of interest in our welfare, we
might be encouraged in the undertaking upon which we were about to
enter--and might be stimulated to brave the perils to which we should
shortly be exposed, by a remembrance of the sympathy expressed in our
behalf, and the pledge we should come under to the public upon leaving
the abode of civilised man, for the unknown and trackless region which
lay before us.
On the 15th of June I attended a meeting of the Committee, and presented
for audit the accounts of the expenditure incurred up to that date. On
the 16th I had a sale of all my private effects, furniture, etc. by
auction, and arranged my affairs in the best way that the very limited
time at my disposal would permit.
The 17th found me still with plenty of work to do, as there were many
little matters to attend to at the last, which the best exertions could
not sooner set aside.
Mr. Scott, who ever since the commencement of our preparations, had been
most indefatigable and useful in his exertions, was even still more
severely tasked on this day; at night, however, we were all amply
rewarded, by seeing every thing completely and satisfactorily
arranged--the bustle, confusion, and excitement over, and our drays all
loaded, and ready to commence on the morrow a journey of which the
length, the difficulty, and the result, were all a problem yet to be
solved.
In the short space of seventeen days from the first commencement of our
preparations, we had completely organized and fully equipped a party for
interior exploration. Every thing had been done in that short time men
hired, horses sought out and selected, drays prepared, saddlery, harness,
and the thousand little things required on such journeys, purchased,
fitted and arranged. In that short time too, the Colonists had subscribed
and collected the sum of five hundred pounds towards defraying the
expenses, exclusive of the Government contribution of 100 pounds.
Unfortunately, at the time the expedition was undertaken, every thing in
South Australia was excessively dear, and the cost of its outfit was
therefore much greater in 1840, than it would have been any year since
that period; nine horses (including a Timor pony, subsequently procured
at Port Lincoln) cost 682 pounds 10 shillings, whilst all other things
were proportionably expensive. After the expedition had terminated and
the men's wages and other expenses had been paid, the gross outlay
amounted to 1391 pounds 0 shillings 7 pence:--of this
Amount of Donation from Government was 100 00 00
Amount of Subscriptions of the Colonists 582 04 09
Sale of the Drays and part of the Equipment 28 00 00
Amount paid by myself 680 15 10
----------
Total 1391 00 07
In addition to this expenditure, considerable as it was, there were very
many things obtained from various sources, which though of great value
did not come into the outlay already noted. Among these were two horses
supplied by the Government, and three supplied by myself, making with the
nine bought for 682 pounds 10 shillings, a total of fourteen horses. The
very valuable services of the cutters "HERO" and "WATERWITCH," were
furnished by the Government; who also supplied all our arms and
ammunition, with a variety of other stores. From my many friends I
received donations of books and instruments, and I was myself enabled to
supply from my own resources a portion of the harness, saddlery, tools,
and tarpaulins, together with a light cart and a tent.
June 18.--Calling my party up early, I ordered the horses to be
harnessed, and yoked to the drays, at half past nine the whole party,
(except the overseer who was at a station up the country) proceeded to
Government House, where the drays were halted for the men to partake of a
breakfast kindly provided for them by His Excellency and Mrs. Gawler,
whilst myself and Mr. Scott joined the very large party invited to meet
us in the drawing room.
The following account of the proceedings of the morning, taken from the
South Australian Register, of the 20th June, may perhaps be read with
interest; at least it will shew the disinterested spirit and enterprising
character of the colonists of South Australia, even at this early stage
of its history, and especially how much the members of our little party
were indebted to the kindness and good feeling of the Governor and
colonists, who were anxious to cheer and stimulate us under the
difficulties and trails we had to encounter, by their earnest wishes and
prayers for our safety and success.
EXPLORATORY EXPEDITION TO THE CENTRE OF NEW HOLLAND
The arrangements for the expedition into the interior, undertaken by Mr.
Eyre, having been completed, His Excellency the Governor and Mrs. Gawler
issued cards to a number of the principal colonists and personal friends
of Mr. Eyre, to meet him at Government House on the morning of his
departure. On Thursday last accordingly (the anniversary of Waterloo, in
which His Excellency and the gallant 52nd bore so conspicuous a part) a
very large party of ladies and gentlemen assembled. After an elegant
DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE, His Excellency the Governor rose and spoke as
nearly as we could collect, as follows:--
"We are assembled to promote one of the most important undertakings that
remain to be accomplished on the face of the globe--the discovery of the
interior of Australia. As Captain Sturt in substance remarked in a recent
lecture, of the five great divisions of the earth, Europe is well known;
Asia and America have been generally searched out; the portion that
remains to be known of Africa is generally unfavourable for Europeans,
and probably unfit for colonization; but Australia, our great island
continent, with a most favourable climate, still remains unpenetrated,
mysterious, and unknown. Without doing injustice to the enterprising
attempts of Oxley, Sturt, and Mitchell, I must remark that they were
commenced from a very unfavourable point--from the eastern and almost
south-eastern extremity of the island--and consequently the great
interior still remains untouched by them, the south-eastern corner alone
having been investigated. As Captain Sturt some years since declared,
this Province is the point from which expeditions to the deep interior
should set out. This principle, I know, has been acknowledged by
scientific men in Europe; and it is most gratifying to see the spirit
with which our Colonists on the present occasion have answered to the
claim which their position imposes upon them. Mr. Eyre goes forth this
day, to endeavour to plant the British flag--the flag which in the whole
world has "braved for a thousand years the battle and the breeze"--on the
tropic of Capricorn (as nearly as possible in 135 degrees or 136 degrees
of longitude) in the very centre of our island continent. On this day
twenty-five years since, commencing almost at this very hour, the British
flag braved indeed the battle, and at length floated triumphant in
victory on the field of Waterloo. May a similar glorious success attend
the present undertaking! Mr. Eyre goes forth to brave a battle of a
different kind, but which in the whole, may present dangers equal to
those of Waterloo. May triumph crown his efforts, and may the British
flag, planted by him in the centre of Australia, wave for another
thousand years over the pence and prosperity of the mighty population
which immigration is pouring in upon us! Of the immediate results of his
journey, no one, indeed, can at present form a solid conjecture. Looking
to the dark side, he may traverse a country useless to man; but
contemplating the bright side, and remembering that but a few years since
Sturt, setting off on an equally mysterious course, laid the foundation
for the large community in which we dwell, it is in reason to hope that
Mr. Eyre will discover a country which may derive support from us, and
increase the prosperity of our Province. I must express my gratification
at the manner in which this enterprise, noble, let its results be what
they may, has been supported by our colonists at large. It is a greater
honor to be at the head of the government of a colony of enlightened and
enterprising men, than at that of an empire of enslaved and ignorant
beings in the form of men. I count it so. May the zeal which has been
exhibited in the colony in the promotion of every good and useful work
ever continue. Some ladies of Adelaide have worked a British Union Jack
for Mr. Eyre. Captain Sturt will be their representative to present it to
him. After that we will adjourn to the opposite rooms to invoke a
blessing on the enterprise. All here, and I believe the whole colony,
give to Mr. Eyre their best wishes, but to good wishes right-minded men
always add fervent prayers. There is an Almighty invisible Being in whose
hands are all events--man may propose, but it is for God only to
dispose--let us therefore implore his protection."
"The Hon. Captain Sturt then received a very handsome Union Jack, neatly
worked in silk; and presenting it to Mr. Eyre, spoke nearly as follows:--
"It cannot but be gratifying to me to be selected on such an occasion as
this, to perform so prominent a part in a duty the last a community can
discharge towards one who, like you, is about to risk your life for its
good. I am to deliver to you this flag, in the name of the ladies who
made it, with their best wishes for your success, and their earnest
prayers for your safety. This noble colour, the ensign of our country,
has cheered the brave on many an occasion. It has floated over every
shore of the known world, and upon every island of the deep. But you have
to perform a very different, and a more difficult duty. You have to carry
it to the centre of a mighty continent, there to leave it as a sign to
the savage that the footstep of civilized man has penetrated so far. Go
forth, then, on your journey, with a full confidence in the goodness of
Providence; and may Heaven direct your steps to throw open the fertility
of the interior, not only for the benefit of the Province, but of our
native country; and may the moment when you unfurl this colour for the
purpose for which it was given to you, be as gratifying to you as the
present."
"Mr. Eyre, visibly and deeply affected, returned his warmest thanks, and
expressed his sense of the kindness he had received on the present
occasion. He hoped to be able to plant the flag he had just received in
the centre of this continent. If he failed, he should, he hoped, have the
cousciousness of having earnestly endeavoured to succeed. To His
Excellency the Governor, his sincere thanks were due for the promptitude
with which so much effectual assistance to the expedition had been
rendered. Mr. Eyre also begged leave to return his thanks to the
Colonists who had so liberally supported the enterprise; and concluded by
expressing his trust that, through the blessing of God, he would be
enabled to return to them with a favourable report of the country into
which he was about to penetrate.
"The company then returned to the library and drawing-room, where the
Colonial Chaplain, the Rev. C. B. Howard, offered up an affecting and
appropriate prayer, and at twelve precisely, Mr. Eyre, accompanied by a
very large concourse of gentlemen on horseback, left Government House,
under the hearty parting cheers of the assembled party."
Leaving Government House under the hearty cheers of the very large
concourse assembled to witness our departure outside the grounds; Mr.
Scott, myself, and two native boys (the drays having previously gone on)
proceeded on horseback on our route, accompanied by a large body of
gentlemen on horseback, and ladies in carriages, desirous of paying us
the last kind tribute of friendship by a farewell escort of a few miles.
At first leaving Government House we had moved on at a gentle canter, but
were scarcely outside the gates, before the cheering of the people, the
waving of hats, and the rush of so many horses, produced an emulation in
the noble steeds that almost took from us the control of their pace, as
we dashed over the bridge and up the hill in North Adelaide--it was a
heart-stirring and inspiriting scene. Carried away by the enthusiasm of
the moment, our thoughts and feelings were wrought to the highest state
of excitement.
The time passed rapidly away, the first few miles were soon travelled
over,--then came the halt,--the parting,--the last friendly cheer;--and
we were alone in the wilderness. Our hearts were too full for
conversation, and we wended on our way slowly and in silence to overtake
the advance party.
Chapter II.
FIRST NIGHT'S ENCAMPMENT WITH PARTY--REFLECTIONS--ARRIVAL AT SHEEP
STATION--RE-ARRANGEMENT OF LOADS--METHOD OF CARRYING FIRE-ARMS--COMPLETE
THE NUMBER OF THE PARTY--THEIR NAMES--MOVE ONWARDS--VALLEY OF THE
LIGHT--EXTENSIVE PLAINS--HEAD OF THE GILBERT--SCARCITY OF
FIREWOOD--GRASSY WELL-WATERED DISTRICTS--THE HILL AND HUTT
RIVERS--INDICATIONS OF CHANGE GOING ON IN APPEARANCE AND CHARACTER OF THE
COUNTRY, TRACEABLE IN THE REMAINS OF TIMBER IN THE PLAINS AND IN THE
OPENINGS AMONG SCRUBS--THE BROUGHTON--REEDY WATERCOURSE--CAMPBELL'S
RANGE--COURSE OF THE BROUGHTON.
June 18.--The party having left Adelaide late in the forenoon, and it
being the first day of working the horses, I did not wish to make a long
stage; having followed the usual road, therefore, as far as the little
Parra, the drays were halted upon that watercourse (after a journey of
about twelve miles), and we then proceeded to bivouac for the first time.
For the first time too since I had engaged to command the expedition, I
had leisure to reflect upon the prospects before me.
During the hurry and bustle of preparation, and in the enthusiasm of
departure, my mind was kept constantly on the stretch, and I had no time
for calm and cool consideration, but now that all was over and the
journey actually commenced, I was again able to collect my thoughts and
to turn my most serious and anxious attention to the duty I had
undertaken. The last few days had been so fraught with interest and
occupation, and the circumstances of our departure this morning, had been
so exciting, that when left to my own reflections, the whole appeared to
me more like a dream than a reality. The change was so great, the
contrast so striking. From the crowded drawing room of civilized life, I
had in a few hours been transferred to the solitude and silence of the
wilds, and from being but an unit in the mass of a large community, I had
suddenly become isolated with regard to the world, which, so far as I was
concerned, consisted now only of the few brave men who accompanied me,
and who were dependant for their very existence upon the energy and
perseverance and prudence with which I might conduct the task assigned to
me. With this small, but gallant and faithful band, I was to attempt to
penetrate the vast recesses of the interior of Australia, to try to lift
up the veil which has hitherto shrouded its mysteries from the researches
of the traveller, and to endeavour to plant that flag which has floated
proudly in all the known parts of the habitable globe, in the centre of a
region as yet unknown, and unvisited save by the savage or the wild
beast.
Those only who have been placed in similar circumstances can at all
appreciate the feelings which they call forth. The hopes, fears, and
anxieties of the leader of an exploring party, must be felt to be
understood, when he is about to commence an undertaking which MUST be one
of difficulty and danger, and which MAY be of doubtful and even fatal
result.
The toil, care, and anxiety devolving upon him are of no ordinary
character; everyday removes him further from the pale of civilization and
from aid or assistance of any kind--whilst each day too diminishes the
strength of his party and the means at his command, and thus renders him
less able to provide against or cope with the difficulties that may beset
him. A single false step, the least error of judgment, or the slightest
act of indiscretion might plunge the expedition into inextricable
difficulty or danger, or might defeat altogether the object in view.
Great indeed was the responsibility I had undertaken--and most fully did
I feel sensible of the many and anxious duties that devolved upon me. The
importance and interest attached to the solution of the geographical
problem connected with the interior of Australia, would, I well knew,
engage the observation of the scientific world. If I were successful, the
accomplishment of what I had undertaken would more than repay me in
gratification for the toil and hazard of the enterprise--but if otherwise
I could not help feeling that, however far the few friends who knew me
might give me credit for exertion or perseverance, the world at large
would be apt to reason from the result, and to make too little allowance
for difficulties and impediments, of the magnitude of which from
circumstances they could be but incompetent judges.
With such thoughts as these, and revolving in my mind our future plans,
our chances of success or otherwise, it will not be deemed surprising,
that notwithstanding the fatigue and care I had gone through during the
last fortnight of preparation, sleep should long remain a stranger to my
pillow; and when all nature around me was buried in deep repose I alone
was waking and anxious.
From former experience in a personal examination of the nature of the
country north of the head of Spencer's Gulf, during the months of May and
June, 1839, I had learnt that the farther the advance to the north, the
more dreary and desolate the appearance of the country became, and the
greater was the difficulty, both of finding and of obtaining access to
either water or grass. The interception of the singular basin of Lake
Torrens, which I had discovered formed a barrier to the westward, and
commencing near the head of Spencer's Gulf, was connected with it by a
narrow channel of mud and water. This lake apparently increased in width
as it stretched away to the northward, as far as the eye could reach,
when viewed from the farthest point attained by me in 1839, named by
Colonel Gawler, Mount Eyre. Dreary as had been the view I then obtained,
and cheerless as was the prospect from that elevation, there was one
feature in the landscape, which still gave me hope that something might
be done in that direction, and had in fact been my principal inducement
to select a line nearly north from Spencer's Gulf, for our route on the
present expedition; this feature was the continuation, and the
undiminished elevation of the chain of hills forming Flinders range,
running nearly parallel with the course of Lake Torrens, and when last
seen by me stretching far to the northward and eastward in a broken and
picturesque outline.
It was to this chain of hills that I now looked forward as the
stepping-stone to the interior. In its continuation were centered all my
hopes of success, because in its recesses alone could I hope to obtain
water and grass for my party. The desert region I had seen around its
base, gave no hope of either, and though the basin of Lake Torrens
appeared to be increasing so much in extent to the northward, I had seen
nothing to indicate its terminating within any practicable distance, in a
deep or navigable water. True the whole of the drainage from Flinders
range, as far as was yet known, emptied into its basin, but such was the
arid and sandy nature of the region through which it passed, that a great
part of the moisture was absorbed, whilst the low level of the basin of
the lake, apparently the same as that of the sea itself, forbade even the
most distant hope of the water being fresh, should any be found in its
bed.
It was in reflections and speculations such as these, that many hours of
the night of my first encampment with the party passed away. The kindness
of the Governor and our many friends had been so unbounded; their anxiety
for our safety and comfort so great; their good wishes for our success so
earnest, and their confidence in our exertions, so implicit, that I could
not but look forward with apprehension, lest the success of our efforts
might not equal what our gratitude desired, and even now I began to be
fearful that the high expectations raised by the circumstances of our
departure might not be wholly realised.
We had fairly commenced our arduous undertaking, and though the party
might appear small for the extent of the exploration contemplated, yet no
expedition could have started under more favourable or more cheering
auspices; provided with every requisite which experience pointed out as
desirable, and with every comfort which excess of kindness could suggest,
we left too, with a full sense of the difficulties before us, but with a
firm determination to overcome them, if possible. And I express but the
sentiments of the whole party when I say, that we felt the events of the
day of our departure, and the recollection of the anxiety and interest
with which our friends were anticipating our progress, and hoping for our
success, would be cherished as our watchword in the hour of danger, and
bethe incentive to perseverance and labour, when more than ordinary
trials should call for our exertions. The result we were willing to leave
in the hands of that Almighty Being whose blessing had been implored upon
our undertaking, and to whom we looked for guidance and protection in all
our wanderings.
June 19.--On mustering the horses this morning it was found, that one or
two had been turned loose without hobbles, and being fresh and high fed
from the stables, they gave us a great deal of trouble before we could
catch them, but at last we succeeded, and the party moved on upon the
road to Gawler town, arriving there (12 miles) about noon; at this place
we halted for half an hour, at the little Inn to lunch, and this being
the last opportunity we should have of entering a house for many months
to come, I was anxious to give my men the indulgence. After lunch I again
moved on the party for five miles, crossing and encamping upon, a branch
of the Parra or Gawler, where we had abundance of good water and grass.
June 20.--Having a long stage before us to-day, I moved on the party very
early, leaving all roads, and steering across the bush to my sheep
stations upon the Light. We passed through some very fine country, the
verdant and beautiful herbage of which, at this season of the year,
formed a carpet of rich and luxuriant vegetation. Having crossed the
grassy and well wooded ranges which confine the waters of the Light to
the westward, we descended to the plain, and reached my head station
about sunset, after a long and heavy stage of twenty miles--here we were
to remain a couple of days to break up the station, as the sheep were
sold, and the overseer and one of the men were to join the Expedition
party.
The night set in cold and rainy, but towards morning turned to a severe
frost; one of the native boys who had been sent a short cut to the
station ahead of the drays, lost his road and was out in the cold all
night--an unusual circumstance, as a native will generally keep almost as
straight a direction through the wilds as a compass will point.
Sunday, June 21.--We remained in camp. The day was cold, the weather
boisterous, with showers of rain at intervals, and the barometer falling;
our delay enabled me to write letters to my various friends, before
finally leaving the occupied parts of the country, I was glad too, to
give the horses and men a little rest after the fatigue they had endured
yesterday in crossing the country.
June 22.--As we still remained in camp, the day being dark and cloudy
with occasional showers, I took the opportunity of having one of the
drays boarded close up, and of re-arranging the loads, oiling the
fire-arms, and grinding the axes, spades, etc.; we completed our
complement of tools, tents, tarpaulins, etc. from those at the station,
and had everything arranged on the drays in the most convenient manner,
always having in view safety in carriage and facility of access; the best
place for the fire-arms I found to be at the outside of the sides, the
backs, or the fronts, of those drays that were close boarded.
By nailing half a large sheepskin with the wool on in any of these
positions, a soft cushion was formed for the fire-arms to rest against,
they were then fixed in their places by a loop of leather for the muzzle,
and a strap and buckle for the stock; whilst the other half of the
sheepskin which hung loose, doubled down in front of the weapons, between
them and the wheel, effectually preserving them from both dirt and wet,
and at the same time keeping them in a position, where they could be got
at in a moment, by simply lifting up the skin and unbuckling the strap;
by this means too, all danger or risk was avoided, which usually exists
when the fire-arms are put on or off the drays in a loaded state. I have
myself formerly seen carbines explode more than once from the cocks
catching something, in being pulled out from, or pushed in amidst the
load of a dray, independently of the difficulty of getting access to them
in cases of sudden emergency; a still better plan than the one I adopted,
would probably be to have lockers made for the guns, to hang in similar
places, and in a somewhat similar manner to that I have described, but in
this case it would be necessary for the lockers to be arranged and fitted
at the time the drays or carts were made.
All the time I could spare from directing or superintending the loading
of the drays, I devoted to writing letters and making arrangements for
the regulation of my private affairs, which from the sudden manner in
which I had engaged in the exploring expedition, and from the busy and
hurried life I had led since the commencement of the preparations, had
fallen into some confusion. I was now, however, obliged to content myself
with such a disposition of them as the time and circumstances enabled me
to make.--I observed the latitude of the station to be 34 degrees 15
minutes 56 seconds S.
June 23.--Having got all the party up very early, I broke up the station,
and sent one man on horseback into Adelaide with despatches and letters.
My overseer and another man were now added to the party, making up our
complement in number. Upon re-arranging the loads of the drays yesterday,
I had found it inconvenient to have the instruments and tent equipage
upon the more heavily loaded drays, and I therefore decided upon taking
an extra cart and another horse from the station. This completed our
alterations, and the party and equipment stood thus:--
Mr. Eyre.
Mr. Scott, my assistant and companion.
John Baxter, Overseer.
Corporal Coles, R.S. and M.
John Houston, driving a three horse dray.
R. M'Robert, driving a three horse dray.
Neramberein and Cootachah,
Aboriginal boys, to drive the sheep, track, etc.
We had with us 13 horses and 40 sheep, and our other stores were
calculated for about three months; in addition to which we were to have a
further supply forwarded to the head of Spencer's Gulf by sea, in the
WATERWITCH, to await our arrival in that neighbourhood. This would give
us the means of remaining out nearly six months, if we found the country
practicable, and in that time we might, if no obstacles intervened,
easily reach the centre of the Continent and return, or if practicable,
cross to Port Essington on the N. W. coast.
About eleven I moved on the party up the Light for 8 miles, and then
halted after an easy stage. As the horses were fresh and the men were not
yet accustomed to driving them, I was anxious to move quietly on at
first, that nothing might be done in a hurry, and every one might
gradually settle down to what he had to perform, and that thus by a
little care and moderation at first, those evils, which my former
travelling had taught me were frequently the result of haste or
inexperience, might be avoided. Nothing is more common than to get the
withers of horses wrung, or their shoulders and backs galled at the
commencement of a journey, and nothing more difficult than to effect a
cure of this mischief whilst the animals are in use. By the precaution
which I adopted, I succeeded in preventing this, for the present.
As we passed up the valley of the Light, we had some rich and picturesque
scenery around us--the fertile vale running nearly north and south,
backed to the westward by well wooded irregular ranges grassed to their
summits, and to the eastward shut in by a dark looking and more heavily
timbered range, beyond which rose two peaks of more distant hills,
through the centre of the valley the Light took its course, but at
present it was only a chain of large ponds unconnected by any stream; and
thus, I believe, it remains the greater part of the year, although
occasionally swollen to a broad and rapid current.
June 24.--The horses having strayed a little this morning, and given us
some trouble to get them, it was rather late when we started; we,
however, crossed the low ridges at the head of the Light, and entering
upon extensive plains to the north, we descended to a channel, which I
took to be the head of a watercourse called the "Gilbert."
Finding here some tolerably good water and abundance of grass, I halted
the party for the night, though we were almost wholly without firewood,
an inconvenience that we felt considerably, as the nights now were very
cold and frosty. Our stage had been fourteen miles to-day, running at
first over low barren ridges, and then crossing rich plains of a loose
brown soil, but very heavy for the drays to travel over.
At our camp, a steep bank of the watercourse presented an extensive
geological section, but there was nothing remarkable in it, the substrata
consisting only of a kind of pipe clay.
June 25.--Upon starting this morning we traversed a succession of fine
open and very grassy plains, from which we ascended the low ridges
forming the division of the waters to the north and south. In the latter
direction, we had left the heads of the "Gilbert" and "Wakefield" chains
of ponds, whilst in descending in the former we came upon the "Hill," a
fine chain of ponds taking its course through a very extensive and grassy
valley, but with little timber of any kind growing near it. On this
account I crossed it, and passing on a little farther encamped the party
on a branch of the "Hutt," and within a mile and a half of the main
course of that chain of ponds. Our whole route to-day, had been through a
fine and valuable grazing district, with grass of an excellent
description, and of great luxuriance.
We were now nearly opposite to the most northerly of the out stations,
and after seeing the party encamp, I proceeded, accompanied by Mr. Scott,
to search for the stations for the purpose of saying good bye to a few
more of my friends. We had not long, however, left the encampment when it
began to rain and drove us back to the tents, effectually defeating the
object with which we had commenced our walk. Heavy rain was apparently
falling to the westward of us, and the night set in dark and lowering.
In some parts of the large plains we had crossed in the morning, I had
observed traces of the remains of timber, of a larger growth than any now
found in the same vicinity, and even in places where none at present
exists. Can these plains of such very great extent, and now so open and
exposed, have been once clothed with timber? and if so, by what cause, or
process, have they been so completely denuded, as not to leave a single
tree within a range of many miles? In my various wanderings in Australia,
I have frequently met with very similar appearances; and somewhat
analogous to these, are the singular little grassy openings, or plains,
which are constantly met with in the midst of the densest Eucalyptus
scrub.
Every traveller in those dreary regions has appreciated these, (to him)
comparatively speaking, oasises of the desert--for it is in them alone,
that he can hope to obtain any food for his jaded horse; without,
however, their affording under ordinary circumstances, the prospect of
water for himself. Forcing his way through the dense, and apparently
interminable scrub, formed by the Eucalyptus dumosa, (which in some
situations is known to extend for fully 100 miles), the traveller
suddenly emerges into an open plain, sprinkled over with a fine silky
grass, varying from a few acres to many thousands in extent, but
surrounded on all sides by the dreary scrub he has left.
In these plains I have constantly traced the remains of decayed
scrub--generally of a larger growth than that surrounding them--and
occasionally appearing to have grown very densely together. From this it
would appear that the face of the country in those low level regions,
occupied by the Eucalyptus dumosa, is gradually undergoing a process
which is changing it for the better, and in the course of centuries
perhaps those parts of Australia which are now barren and worthless, may
become rich and fertile districts, for as soon as the scrub is removed
grass appears to spring up spontaneously. The plains found interspersed
among the dense scrubs may probably have been occasioned by fires,
purposely or accidentally lighted by the natives in their wanderings, but
I do not think the same explanation would apply to those richer plains
where the timber has been of a large growth and the trees in all
probability at some distance apart--here fires might burn down a few
trees, but would not totally annihilate them over a whole district,
extending for many miles in every direction.
June 26.--This morning brought a very heavy fog, through which we
literally could not see 100 yards, when the party moved on to the "Hutt"
chain of ponds, and then followed that watercourse up to the Broughton
river, which was crossed in Lat. 33 degrees 28 minutes S. At this point
the bed of the Broughton is of considerable width, and its channel is
occupied by long, wide and very deep water holes, connected with one
another by a strongly running stream, which seldom or never fails even in
the driest seasons. The soil upon its banks however is not valuable,
being generally stony and barren, and bearing a sort of prickly grass,
(Spinifex). Wild fowl abound on the pools. On a former occasion, when I
first discovered the Broughton, I obtained both ducks and swans from its
waters, but now I had no time for sporting, being anxious to push on to
the "reedy watercourse," a halting place in my former journey, so as to
get over all the rough and hilly ground before nightfall, that we might
have a fair start in the morning. I generally preferred, if practicable,
to lengthen the stage a little in the vicinity of watercourses or hills,
in order to get the worst of the road over whilst the horses worked
together and were warm, rather than leave a difficult country to be
passed over the first thing in the morning, when, for want of exercise,
the teams are chill and stiff, and require to be stimulated before they
will work well in unison. Our journey to-day was about twenty miles, and
the last five being over a rugged hilly road, it was late in the
afternoon when we halted for the night.
"The reedy watercourse," is a chain of water-holes taking its rise among
some grassy and picturesque ranges to the north of us, and trending
southerly to a junction with the Broughton. Among the gorges of this
range, (which I had previously named Campbell's range,)[Note 1: After
R. Campbell, Esq. M. C. of Sydney.] are many springs of water,
and the scenery is as picturesque as the district is fertile.
Many of the hills are well rounded, very grassy, and moderately well
timbered even to their summits. This is one of the prettiest and most
desirable localities for either sheep or cattle, that I have yet seen in
the unoccupied parts of South Australia, whilst the distance from
Adelaide by land, does not at the most exceed one hundred and twenty
miles. [Note 2: All this country, and for some distance to the
north, is now occupied by stations.] The watercourse near our camp took
its course through an open valley, between bare hills on which there was
neither tree nor shrub for firewood and we were constantly obliged to go
half a mile up a steep hill before we could obtain a few stunted bushes to
cook with. As the watercourse approached the Broughton the country became
much more abrupt and broken, and after its junction with that river, the
stream wound through a succession of barren and precipitous hills, for
about fifteen miles, at a general course of south-west; these hills were
overrun almost everywhere with prickly grass and had patches of the
Eucalyptus dumosa scattered over them at intervals.
Up to the point where it left the hills, there were ponds of water in the
bed of the Broughton, but upon leaving them the river changed its
direction to the northward, passing through extensive plains and
retaining a deep wide gravelly channel, but without surface water, the
drainage being entirely underground, and the country around comparatively
poor and valueless.
Chapter III.
SPRING HILL--AN AGED NATIVE DESERTED BY HIS TRIBE--RICH AND EXTENSIVE
PLAINS--SURPRISE A PARTY OF NATIVES--ROCKY RIVER--CRYSTAL BROOK--FLINDERS
RANGE--THE DEEP SPRING--MYALL PONDS--ROCKY WATER HOLES--DRY
WATERCOURSE--REACH THE DEPOT NEAR MOUNT ARDEN--PREPARE FOR LEAVING THE
PARTY--BLACK SWANS PASS TO THE NORTH--ARRIVAL OF THE WATERWITCH.
During the night the frost had been so severe, that we were obliged to
wait a little this morning for the sun to thaw the tent and tarpaulins
before they would bend to fold up. After starting, we proceeded across a
high barren open country, for about three miles on a W. N. W. course,
passing close under a peak connected with Campbell's range, which I named
Spring Hill, from the circumstance of a fine spring of water being found
about half way up it.
Not far from the spring I discovered a poor emaciated native, entirely
alone, without either food or fire, and evidently left by his tribe to
perish there; he was a very aged man, and from hardship and want was
reduced to a mere skeleton, how long he had been on the spot where we
found him I had no means of ascertaining, but probably for some time, as
life appeared to be fast ebbing away; he seemed almost unconscious of our
presence, and stared upon us with a vacant unmeaning gaze. The pleasures
or sorrows of life were for ever over with him: his case was far beyond
the reach of human aid, and the probability is that he died a very few
hours after we left him.
Such is the fate of the aged and helpless in savage life, nor can we
wonder that it should be so, since self-preservation is the first law of
nature, and the wandering native who has to travel always over a great
extent of ground to seek for his daily food, could not obtain enough to
support his existence, if obliged to remain with the old or the sick, or
if impeded by the incumbrance of carrying them with him; still I felt
grieved for the poor old man we had left behind us, and it was long
before I could drive away his image from my mind, or repress the
melancholy train of thoughts that the circumstance had called forth.
From the summit of Spring Hill, I observed extensive plains to the N. W.
skirted both on their eastern and western sides, by open hills, whilst to
the N. W. and N. E. the ranges were high, and apparently terminated in
both directions by peaked summits on their eastern extremes; a little
south of west the waters of Spencer's Gulf were distinctly visible, and
the smokes ascending from the fires of the natives, were seen in many
directions among the hills. After passing Spring Hill, we crossed some
rich and extensive plains, stretching far away to the northward, and
taking a nearly north and south direction under Campbell's range; in the
upper part of these plains is the deep bed of a watercourse with water in
it all the year round, and opposite to which, in lat. 33 degrees 14
minutes S, is a practicable pass for drays through Campbell's range, to
the grassy country to the eastward.
June 27.--In crossing the southern extremity of these large plains, we
came suddenly upon a small party of natives engaged in digging yams of
which the plains were full; they were so intent upon their occupation
that we were close to them before they were aware of our presence; when
they saw us they appeared to be surprised and alarmed, and endeavoured to
steal off as rapidly as they could without fairly taking to their heels,
for they were evidently either unwilling or afraid to run; finding that
we did not molest them they halted, and informed us by signs that we
should soon come to water, in the direction we were going. This I knew to
be true, and about three o'clock we were in front of a water-course, I
had on a former journey named the "Rocky river," from the ragged
character of its bed where we struck it.
We had been travelling for some distance upon a high level open country,
and now came to a sudden gorge of several hundred feet below us, through
which the Rocky river wound its course. It was a most singular and wild
looking place, and was not inaptly named by the men, the "Devil's Glen;"
looking down from the table land we were upon, the valley beneath
appeared occupied by a hundred little hills of steep ascent and rounded
summits, whilst through their pretty glens, flowed the winding stream,
shaded by many a tree and shrub--the whole forming a most interesting and
picturesque scene.
The bed of the watercourse was over an earthy slate, and the water had a
sweetish taste. Like most of the Australian rivers, it consisted only of
ponds connected by a running stream, and even that ceased to flow a
little beyond where we struck it, being lost in the deep sandy channel
which it then assumed, and which exhibited in many places traces of very
high floods. Below our camp the banks were 50 to 60 feet high, and the
width from 60 to 100 yards, its course lay through plains to the
south-west, over which patches of scrub were scattered at intervals, and
the land in its vicinity was of an inferior description, with much
prickly grass growing upon it.
Upwards, the Rocky river, after emerging from the gorges in which we
found it, descended through very extensive plains from the
north-north-east; there was plenty of water in its bed, and abundance of
grass over the plains, so that in its upper parts it offers fine and
extensive runs for either cattle or sheep, and will, I have no doubt, ere
many years be past, be fully occupied for pastoral purposes.
From our present encampment a very high and pointed hill was visible far
to the N.N. W. this from the lofty way in which it towered above the
surrounding hills, I named Mount Remarkable. Our latitude at noon was 33
degrees 25 minutes 26 seconds S.
A very beautiful shrub was found this afternoon upon the Rocky river, in
full flower: it was a tall slender stalked bush, about six or eight feet
high, growing almost in the bed of the river, with leaves like a
geranium, and fine delicate lilac flowers about an inch and a half in
diameter; here, too, we found the first gum-trees seen upon any of the
watercourses for many miles, as all those we had recently crossed,
traversed open plains which were quite without either trees or shrubs of
any kind.
June 28.--This morning we passed through a country of an inferior
description, making a short stage to a watercourse, named by me the
"Crystal Brook;" it was a pretty stream emanating from the hills to the
north-east, and marked in its whole course through the plains to the
northward and westward by lines of gum-trees. The pure bright water ran
over a bed of clear pebbles, with a stream nine feet wide, rippling and
murmuring like the rivulets of England--a circumstance so unusual in the
character of Australian watercourses, that it interested and pleased the
whole party far more than a larger river would have done; this
characteristic did not, however, long continue, for like all the streams
we had lately crossed, the water ceased to flow a short distance beyond
our crossing place.
The country below us, like that through which the Rocky river took its
course, was open and of an inferior description, but I have no doubt that
by tracing the stream upwards, towards its source among the ranges, a
good and well watered country would be found; I ascertained the latitude
by a meridian altitude at Crystal brook to be 33 degrees 18 minutes 7
seconds S.
The hills on the opposite side of Spencer's Gulf were now plainly
visible, and one which appeared to be inland, I took to be the middle
Back mountain of Flinders; between our camp and the eastern shores of the
gulf, the land was generally low, with a good deal of scrub upon it, and
nearer the shores appeared to be swampy, and subject to inundation by the
tides.
June 29.--Upon moving from our camp this morning we commenced following
under Flinders range. From Crystal brook, the hills rise gradually in
elevation as they trend to the northward, still keeping their western
slopes almost precipitous to the plains, out of which they appear to rise
abruptly. Our course was much embarrassed by the gullies and gorges
emanating from the hills, in some of which the crossing place was not
very good, and in all the horses got much shaken, so that when we arrived
at a large watercourse defined by gum trees, and in which was a round
hole of water that had been on a former occasion called by me "The Deep
Spring," I halted the party for the night and found that the horses were
a good deal fatigued. Fortunately there was excellent food for them, and
plenty of water. The place at which we encamped was upon one of the
numerous watercourses, proceeding from the gorges of Flinders range. It
had a wide gravelly bed, divided into two or three separate channels, but
without a drop of water below the base of the hills, excepting where we
bivouacked, at this point, there was a considerable extent of rich black
alluvial soil, and in the midst of it a mound of jet black earth,
surrounded by a few reeds. In the centre of the mound was a circular deep
hole containing water, and apparently a spring: the last time I was here,
in 1839 it was full to overflowing, but now, though in the depth of
winter, I was surprised and chagrined to see the water so much lower than
I had known it before. It was covered up too so carefully with bushes and
boughs, that it was evident the natives sometimes contemplated its being
quite dried up, [Note 3: In October 1842, I again passed this way, in
command of a party of Police sent overland to Port Lincoln, to search for
Mr. C. C. Dutton: the spring was then dried up completely.] and had taken
this means as the best they could adopt for shading and protecting the
water. On the other hand the numerous well beaten tracks leading to this
solitary pool appeared to indicate that there was no other water in the
neighbourhood. We saw kangaroos, pigeons and birds of various
descriptions, going to it in considerable number. At night too after dark
we found that a party of natives were watching also for an opportunity
to participate in so indispensable a necessary, which having secured,
they departed, and we saw nothing more of them. I observed the latitude
at this camp to be 33 degrees 7 minutes 14 seconds S. and the variation
8 degrees 53 minutes E.
June 30.--Our road to day was much better, and less interrupted by
gullies, though we still kept close under Flinders range. We traversed a
great extent of plain land which was generally stony, but grassy, and
tolerably well adapted for sheep runs. Several watercourses take their
rise from this range, with a westerly direction towards the gulf, these
were all dry when we crossed them, but their course was indicated by gum
trees, and as some of the channels were wide and large, and had strong
traces of occasional high floods, I rode for many miles down one of the
most promising, but without being able to find a drop of water. At noon
our latitude was 32 degrees 59 minutes 8 seconds, S.
Late in the afternoon we reached a watercourse, which I had previously
named "Myall Ponds," [Note 4: Myall is in some parts of New Holland, the
native name for the Acacia pendula.] from the many and beautiful Acacia
pendula trees that grew upon its banks. There I knew we could get water,
and at once halted the party for the night. Upon going to examine the
supply I was again disappointed at finding it so much less than when I had
been here in 1839. This did not augur well for our future prospects, and
gave me considerable anxiety relative to our future movements.
For some days past the whole party had fully entered upon their
respective duties, each knew exactly what he had to do, and was beginning
to get accustomed to its performance, so that every thing went on
smoothly and prosperously. My own time, when not personally engaged in
conducting the party, was occupied in keeping the journals and charts,
etc. in taking and working observations--in the daily register of the
barometer, thermometer, winds, and weather, and in collecting specimens
of flowers, or minerals. My young friend, Mr. Scott, was kept equally
busy; for in many of these duties he assisted me, and in some relieved me
altogether; the regular entry of the meteorological observations, and the
collecting of flowers or shrubs generally fell to his share;
independently of which he was the only sportsman in the party, and upon
his gun we were dependant for supplies of wallabies, pigeons, ducks, or
other game, to vary our bill of fare, and make the few sheep we had with
us hold out as long as possible. As a companion I could not have made a
better selection--young, active, and cheerful, I found him ever ready to
render me all the assistance in his power. At our present encampment,
several of a species of wallabie, very much resembling a hare in flavour,
were shot by Mr. Scott, but hitherto we had not succeeded in getting a
kangaroo.
July 1.--To-day we travelled through a similar country to that we were in
yesterday, consisting of open plains and occasionally low scrub.
Kangaroos abounded in every direction. Our stage was eighteen miles to a
watercourse called by me the "Reedy water holes," from the circumstance
of reeds growing around the margin of the water. Upon arriving at this
place I was surprised to find a strongly running stream, where formerly
there had only been a reedy pond, although the two last watercourses we
had encamped at had been much reduced and dried up. When I had been here
in 1839, they were the running streams, and this only a pool, whilst
singularly enough there did not appear to have been more rain at one
place than the other.
We were now in full view of Spencer's gulf, but as yet could observe no
signs of the WATERWITCH, which was to meet us at the head of the gulf
with additional stores. At night I observed the latitude by altitude of a
Bootis to be 32 degrees 41 minutes 28 seconds S.
July 2.--We moved on for 15 miles over extensive plains, covered
principally with Rhagodia, and in some places stony, and halted early in
the afternoon at a large dry watercourse, coming out from Flinders range.
Though there was no water in this channel below the base of the hill, on
sending a party a mile and a half up it with spades and buckets, we got,
by digging in the gravelly bed, as much as sufficed for ourselves and
horses. At this camp I observed the variation to be 7 degrees
24 minutes E.
July 3.--During the night our horses had rambled a little, so that we
could not get away early, and as we had a long stage before us we were
obliged to push on to a late hour. At dark we arrived at my former depot
near Mount Arden, and took up our old position in the dry bed of the
watercourse, at the base of the hills from which it emanated; but we had
still to send the horses a mile and a half further up the gorge, over a
hilly and stony road, before we could either get water for ourselves or
them; it was therefore very late when the men returned, and the whole
party were a good deal fatigued, having travelled from Adelaide to Mount
Arden in 14 days, (deducting the two days in camp at the Light.) I now
ascertained the latitude of the depot to be 32 degrees 14 minutes S.
July 4.--Having mustered the horses this morning, I ordered an
arrangement to be entered into for taking them to the water twice a day,
and bringing down the supply required for the use of the party. Each
person undertook this duty in turn, and thus the labour was divided.
After breakfast I went up myself to examine the state of the water and
found great abundance in its bed; there were strong traces of recent and
high flooding, the drift timber being lodged among the bushes several
feet above the ordinary channel. The grass I was sorry to find was rather
old and dry, but still there was a very fair supply of it, a point of
great importance to us at a time when it was necessary to detain the
whole party for two or three weeks in depot, to enable me to examine the
country to the north; my former experience having convinced me that it
would be dangerous to attempt to push on, before ascertaining where grass
and water could be procured.
We had now travelled upwards of eighty miles under Flinders range, from
Crystal brook to Mount Arden, and hitherto the character of that range
had varied but little. High, rocky, and barren, it rises abruptly from
the plains, and so generally even is the country at its base, that we had
no difficulty in keeping our drays within a mile or two of it. This was
convenient, because we had not far to leave our line of route, when
compelled to send up among the ravines for water. The slopes of Flinders
range are steep and precipitous to the westward, and composed principally
of an argillaceous stone or grey quartz, very hard and ringing like metal
when struck with a hammer.
There was no vegetation upon these hills, excepting prickly grass, and
many were coated over so completely with loose stones that from the
steepness of the declivity it was unsafe, if not impossible to ascend
them. At one or two points in our routs I climbed up to the top of high
summits, but was not rewarded for my toil, the prospect being generally
cheerless and barren in the extreme, nor did the account given by Mr.
Brown of his ascent of Mount Brown in March 1802, tempt me to delay a day
to enable me to view the uninteresting prospect he had seen from the
summit of that hill--by far the highest peak in this part of Flinders
range.
Having decided upon ridingon a head of my party to reconnoitre, as soon
as the WATERWITCH should arrive, I at once commenced my preparations, and
made the overseer put new shoes on the horses I intended to take with me.
The very stony character of the country we had been lately traversing and
the singularly hard nature of the stone itself, had caused the shoes to
wear out very rapidly, and there was hardly a horse in the teams that did
not now require new shoes; fortunately we had brought a very large supply
with us, and my overseer was a skilful and expeditious farrier. At dusk a
watch was set upon one of the hills near us, to look out for signals from
the WATERWITCH in the direction of Spencer's gulf, but none were seen.
July 4.--Whilst writing in my tent this evening, my attention was
attracted by the notes of swans, and upon going out I perceived a flight
of several of the black species coming up from the southward; when they
had got over the tents, they appeared to be alarmed and wheeled to the
eastward, but soon returning, they took a nearly due northerly course.
This was encouraging for us, and augured well for the existence of some
considerable body of water inland, but we hoped and expected that a few
days would perhaps give us a clue to the object of their flight.
Sunday, July 5.--A day of rest to all. In the afternoon I employed myself
in writing out instructions for the overseer during my absence, as also
for the master of the WATERWITCH, for whose arrival we now kept a
constant and anxious look out. In the evening about eight o'clock the
sentinel on the hill reported a fire on the opposite side of Spencer's
gulf. Upon receiving this intelligence I had blue lights exhibited, and
rockets fired, which in a little time were replied to by rockets from the
gulf and the lighting up of a second fire on shore assuring me at once of
the safe arrival of the cutter.
Chapter IV.
MAKE ARRANGEMENTS FOR GETTING UP STORES FROM THE WATERWITCH--LEAVE THE
PARTY--SALT WATERCOURSE--MOUNT EYRE--ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY--LAKE
TORRENS--RETURN TOWARDS THE HILLS--NATIVE FEMALE--SALINE CHARACTER OF THE
COUNTRY--MOUNT DECEPTION--REACH THE EASTERN HILLS--LARGE
WATERCOURSES--WATER HOLE IN A ROCK--GRASSY BUT HILLY COUNTRY--RUNNING
STREAM--ASCEND A RANGE--RETURN HOMEWARDS--DECAY OF TREES IN THE
WATERCOURSES--SHOOT A KANGAROO--ARRIVE AT THE DEPOT--BURY STORES--MAKE
PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING--SEND DESPATCHES TO THE VESSEL.
July 6.--BEING anxious to pursue my explorations, and unwilling to lose
another day solely for the purpose of receiving my letters, I sent down
my overseer to arrange about getting our stores up from the vessel, which
was about fourteen miles away, and to request the master to await my
return from the north, and in the interval employ himself in surveying
and sounding some salt water inlets, we had seen on the eastern shores of
the gulf in our route up under Flinders range.
Having made all necessary arrangements and wished Mr. Scott good bye, I
set off on horseback with the eldest of my native boys, taking a pack
horse to carry our provisions, and some oats for the horses. After
rounding a projecting corner of the range we passed Mount Arden, still
traversing open plains of great extent, and very stony. In some of these
plains we found large puddles of water much discoloured by the soil, so
that it was evident there had been heavy rains in this direction, though
we had none to the southward.
After travelling twenty-four miles we came to a large watercourse winding
from Flinders range through the plains, with its direction distinctly
marked out by the numerous gum-trees upon its banks. This was the "salt
watercourse" of my former journeys so called from the large reaches of
salt water in its bed a mile or two among the hills. By digging in the
gravelly bed of the channel, where the natives had scooped a small hole,
we got some tolerable water, and were enabled to give as much as they
required to our horses, but it was a slow and tedious operation. We could
get very little out at once, and had to give it to them to drink in the
black boy's duck frock, which answered the purpose of a bucket amazingly
well.
There was not a blade of grass, or anything that the horses could eat
near this creek, so I was obliged to tie them up for the night, after
giving to each a feed of oats.
July 7.--Towards morning several showers of rain fell, and I found that I
had got a severe attack of rheumatism, which proved both troublesome and
painful. Pushing on for ten miles we reached the height standing out from
the main range which Colonel Gawler named Mount Eyre, from its having
been the limit of my first journey to the north in May 1839. This little
hill is somewhat detached, of considerable elevation, and with a bold
rocky overhanging summit to the southward. Having clambered to the top of
it, I had an extensive view, and took several bearings.
The region before us appeared to consist of a low sandy country without
either trees or shrubs, save a few stunted bushes. On the east this was
backed by high rugged ranges, very barren in appearance, and extending
northward as far as the eye could reach, beyond this level country to the
West, and stretching far to the north-west, appeared a broad glittering
stripe, looking like water, and constituting the bed of Lake Torrens. The
lake appeared to be about twenty-five miles off, and of considerable
breadth; but at so great distance, it was impossible to say whether there
was actually any water in it or not.
Having completed my observations we descended again to the plains
steering north-west for the lake. At two miles from Mount Eyre we found a
puddle of water in the midst of the plains, and halted at it for the
night. Our horses had good grass, but would not touch the water, which
was extremely thick and muddy. Upon trying it ourselves we found it was
not usable, even after it had been strained twice through a handkerchief,
whilst boiling only thickened it; it was a deep red colour, from the
soil, and was certainly an extraordinary and unpalatable mixture.
July 8.--Our horses having strayed this morning I sent the native boy to
look for them, but as he did not return in a reasonable time, I got
anxious and went after him myself, leaving the saddles and provisions at
our sleeping place. In about four miles I met the boy returning with the
runaways, which had rambled for several miles, though they had abundance
of good feed around the camp; fortunately we found every thing safe when
we got back, but if any natives had accidentally passed that way we
should probably have lost everything, and been left in very awkward
predicament.
This is a risk I have frequently been obliged to incur, and is one of the
inconveniences resulting from so small a number as two travelling alone;
it it is not always practicable from want of grass to tether the horses,
and frequently when they are tethered the ropes break, and occasion the
necessity of both individuals leaving the encampment to search for them
at the same time.
Moving on to the N. W. by N. we passed over heavy sandy ridges, with
barren red plains between, and in one of the latter we found a puddle of
rain water, this upon tasting. I found to be rather saline from the
nature of the soil upon which it lay, the horses, however, drank it
readily, and we put some in a small keg for ourselves. The only
vegetation to be seen consisted of a few small stunted trees and shrubs,
and even these as we approached the vicinity of the lake disappeared
altogether, and gave place to Salsolaceous plants, the country being open
and barren in the extreme.
I found Lake Torrens completely girded by a steep sandy ridge, exactly
like the sandy ridges bounding the sea shore, no rocks or stones were
visible any where, but many saline coasts peeped out in the outer ridge,
and upon descending westerly to its basin, I found the dry bed of the
lake coated completely over with a crust of salt, forming one unbroken
sheet of pure white, and glittering brilliantly in the sun. On stepping
upon this I found that it yielded to the foot, and that below the surface
the bed of the lake consisted of a soft mud, and the further we advanced
to the westward the more boggy it got, so that at last it became quite
impossible to proceed, and I was obliged to return to the outer margin of
the lake without ascertaining whether there was water on the surface of
its bed further west or not.
The extraordinary deception caused by mirage and refraction, arising from
the state of the atmosphere in these regions, makes it almost impossible
to believe the evidence of one's own eyesight; but as far as I could
judge under these circumstances, it appeared to me that there was water
in the bed of the lake at a distance of four or five miles from where I
was, and at this point Lake Torrens was about fifteen or twenty miles
across, having high land bounding it to the west, seemingly a
continuation of the table land at the head of Spencer's gulf on its
western side.
Foiled in the hope of reaching the water, I stood gazing on the dismal
prospect before me with feelings of chagrin and gloom. I can hardly say I
felt disappointed, for my expectations in this quarter had never been
sanguine; but I could not view unmoved, a scene which from its character
and extent, I well knew must exercise a great influence over my future
plans and hopes: the vast area of the lake was before me interminable as
far as the eye could see to the northward, and the country upon its
shore, was desolate and forbidding.
It was evident, that I could never hope to take my party across the lake,
and it was equally evident, that I should not be able to travel around
its shores, from the total absence of all fresh water, grass, or wood,
whilst the very saline nature of the soil in the surrounding country,
made even the rain water salt, after lying for an hour or two upon the
ground. My only chance of success now lay in the non-termination of
Flinders range, and in the prospect it held out to me, that by continuing
our course along it we might be able to procure grass and water in its
recesses, until we were either taken beyond Lake Torrens, or led to some
practicable opening to the north.
With a heavy heart I turned towards the mountains, and steering N. E. for
ten miles, halted at dark, where there was nothing for our horses to eat
or drink, and we were consequently obliged to tie them up for the night.
We had still a few oats left and gave each horse three pints. A short
time before encamping, I had observed that Lake Torrens was trending more
to the eastward, and that when we halted, it was not at any very great
distance from us.
July 9.--One of our horses having got loose last night, pulled the cork
out of the keg in which was our small stock of the dirty brackish water
we had found yesterday, and rolling the keg over, destroyed its contents;
we were thus deprived of our breakfasts, and consequently had but little
delay in starting. I intended to push on steadily for the hills, but
after travelling six miles came to a puddle in the plains, with tolerable
grass around, and at this I halted for the day, to rest the horses. Our
latitude was 31 degrees 25 minutes S. by an altitude of Arcturus, Mount
Eyre then bearing S. 7 degrees E.
July 10.--Our horses being much recruited I altered our course to-day to
N. 5 degrees E. being the bearing of the most distant range to the
northward, (subsequently named Mount Deception). We passed for the first
ten miles through an open barren country, but found a puddle at which we
watered our horses, and refilled the keg; we then entered heavy ridges of
dense red sand lying nearly north and south, and having small barren
plains between.
There were a few stunted bushes upon the ridges and occasionally some
small straggling pines. Lake Torrens still trended easterly, being
occasionally seen from, and sometimes approaching near to our track.
Emerging from the sandy ridges we again entered upon vast level plains
covered with rhagodia. In the midst of these we came to the bed of a
large dry watercourse, having good grass about it, but containing no
water. I halted here for the day as our horses were not very thirsty.
Upon examining the bed of the watercourse, I found traces of a rather
recent and high flood; much drift being still left upon the bushes where
it had been swept by the torrent; I could, however, find no water
anywhere.
A great many emus were seen during our ride, and I wounded one with my
rifle, but did not get it. We found to-day a description of flower, which
I had not seen before, white, and sweetly scented like the hawthorn,
growing upon a low prickly bush near the watercourse.
July 11.--To-day I left our course and rambled up the watercourse to
examine its character and search for water, which however I could not
find in its channel anywhere. Traces of natives were numerous and recent
all the way as we went, till at last we came to where they had encamped
the previous night, and where they had left a fire still fresh and
burning.
Proceeding onwards we came upon a single native, a female, young, but
miserably thin and squalid, fit emblem of the sterility of the country.
We could gain no information from her, she was so much alarmed, but not
long after parting with her we came to a puddle of water in the plains,
and encamped for the night. Our stage had been a tortuous, but not a long
one, and we halted early in the day, the latitude was 30 degrees 58
minutes S. by an altitude of the sun at noon.
After taking some refreshment, I walked to a rise about three miles off
at N. 40 degrees E. from which I took several bearings, and among them I
set Mount Deception at N. 25 degrees W., I then examined several of the
gorges between the front hills, where the banks were broken away, and to
my great dismay found in all of them salt mixed with the sand, the clay,
and even the rocks; whilst in the bed of the watercourse, the salt water
tea-tree was making its appearance, a shrub I had never before seen under
Flinders range, and one which never grows where the soil is not of a very
saline nature, and generally only where the water is too brackish for use.
The beds of the watercourses were in some places quite white and glazed
with encrustations of salt, where the rains had lodged, and the water had
evaporated. Some of the cliffs which I examined presented sections of 40
and 50 feet perpendicular height, in which layers of salt were embedded
from the very top to the bottom.
In such a country, what accommodation could I expect, or what hopes could
I entertain for the future, when the very water shed from the clouds
would not be drinkable after remaining a few hours on the ground?
Whichever way I turned myself, to the West, to the East, or the North,
nothing but difficulties met my view.
In one direction was an impracticable lake, skirted by heavy and scrubby
sand ridges; in another, a desert of bare and barren plains; and in a
third, a range of inhospitable rocks. The very stones lying upon the
hills looked like the scorched and withered scoria of a volcanic region;
and even the natives, judging from the specimen I had seen to-day,
partook of the general misery and wretchedness of the place.
My heart sank within me when I reflected upon the gradual but too obvious
change that had taken place in the character of the country for the
worse, and when I considered that for some days past we had been entirely
dependent for our supply of water upon the little puddles that had been
left on the plains by the rain, and which two or three more days would
completely dry up. Under circumstances so unpropitious, I had many
misgivings, and the contemplation of our future prospect became a subject
of painful anxiety.
July 12.--We moved away early, steering for Mount Deception. Near its
base, and emanating from it, we crossed the dry bed of a very large
watercourse, more resembling that of a river in character, its channel
being wide, deep, and well-defined, and lined with the salt-water
tea-tree; whilst its course was marked by very large, green looking
gum-trees, the bed consisted of an earthy, micaceous slate of a reddish
colour, and in very minute particles, almost in some places as fine as
sand, but we could find no water in it anywhere.
The range in which this watercourse has its source, is of the same slaty
rock, and very rugged; it could not be less than 3,000 feet in elevation,
and its summit was only attainable by winding along the steep and stony
ridges that led round the deep gorges and ravines by which it was
surrounded.
From the top the view was extensive and unsatisfactory. Lake Torrens
appearing as large and mysterious as ever, and bearing in its most
northerly extreme visible W. 22 degrees N. To the north was a low level
cheerless waste, and to the east Flinders range trending more easterly,
and then sweeping back to N. 28 degrees W. but its appearance seemed to
be changing and its character altering; the ranges struck me as being
more separated by ridges, with barren flats and valleys between, among
which winding to the N. W. were many large and deep watercourses, but
which when traced up, often for many miles, I found to emanate from
gorges of the hills, and to have neither water nor springs in them.
I had fully calculated upon finding permanent water at this very high
range, and was proportionally disappointed at not succeeding, especially
after having toiled to the summit, and tired both myself and horses in
tracing up its watercourses. There was now no other alternative left me,
than to make back for the hills to the eastward, in the hope of being
more fortunate there. I had only found permanent water once, (at Salt
watercourse) since I left my party, having depended entirely upon puddles
of rain water for subsistence; but it now became imperative on me to turn
my attention exclusively to this subject, not only to enable me to bring
up my men, but to secure the possibility of my own return, as every day
that passed dried up more and more the small puddles I had found in the
plains.
Descending Mount Deception, we travelled five miles upon a S. E. course,
and encamped upon a small dry watercourse for the night, with good grass
for our horses, but without water.
July 13.--Bending our steps backwards, to search for water in the eastern
hills, we were lucky enough to fall in with a puddle in the plains, at
which we watered our horses, and again proceeded.
Selecting one of the larger watercourses running out from the hills, we
traced it up a considerable distance, examining all its minor branches
carefully, and sparing no pains in seeking a permanent spring of water;
the channel, however, gradually diminished in size, as we occasionally
passed the junctions of small branches from the various gorges; the
gum-trees on its course were either dead or dying; the hills, which at a
distance had appeared very rugged and lofty, upon a nearer approach
turned out to be mere detached eminences of moderate elevation, covered
with loose stones, but without the least sign of water.
About two o'clock, P.M. we passed a little grass, and as the day appeared
likely to become rainy, I halted for the night. Leaving the native boy to
hobble the horses, I took my gun and ascended one of the hills near me
for a view. Lake Torrens was visible to the west, and Mount Deception to
the N.W. but higher hills near me, shut out the view in every other
direction. In descending, I followed a little rocky gully leading to the
main watercourse, and to my surprise and joy, discovered a small but deep
pool of water in a hole of the rock: upon sounding the depth, I found it
would last us some time, and that I might safely bring on my party thus
far, until I could look for some other point for a depot still farther
north; the little channel where the water was, I named Depot Pool.
Regaining the camp, I immediately set to work with the native boy to
construct a bough hut, as the weather looked very threatening. We had
hardly completed it before the rain came down in torrents, and water was
soon laying every where in the ledges of rock in the bed of the
watercourse. So little do we know what is before us, and so short a time
is necessary to change the aspect of affairs, and frequently too, when we
least expect it!
July 14.--Our hut not having been quite water-tight before the rain came,
we got very wet during the night, and turned out early this morning to go
and hunt for firewood to warm ourselves.
As the weather still continued rainy, I determined to give our horses a
day's rest, whilst I walked up the watercourse to examine it farther. I
found the hills open a good deal more as I proceeded, with nice grassy
valleys between; and the hills themselves, though high and steep, were
rounded at the summits, and richly clothed with vegetation: among them
numerous watercourses took their rise in the gorges, and generally these
were well marked by gum-trees. Altogether it was a pretty and fertile
spot, and though very hilly, would do well for stock, if permanent water
could be found near. I was quite unsuccessful, however, in my search for
this, and the native boy, whom I sent in the opposite direction, after my
return, was equally unfortunate. Towards evening, one of the horses
having broken his hobbles, and got alarmed, galloped off, taking the
other with him. Tired and wet as I was, I was obliged to go after them,
and it was some miles from the camp, before I could overtake and turn
them back. Our latitude was 30 degrees 55 minutes S.
July 15.--This morning was misty and clondy, and dreadfully cold. We set
off early and commenced tracing up and examining as many of the
watercourses as we could; we did not, however, find permanent water.
Under one low ridge we met with what I took to be a small spring
emanating from a limestone rock; but it was so small as to be quite
useless to a party like mine, though the natives appeared frequently to
have resorted to it. Finding the courses of the main channel become lost
in its many branches, I ascended the dividing ridge, and crossed into the
bed of another large watercourse, in which, after travelling but a short
distance, I found a fine spring of running water among some very broken
and precipitous ranges, which rose almost perpendicularly from the
channel; in the latter, high ledges of a slaty rock stretched
occasionally quite across its bed, making it both difficult and dangerous
to get our horses along. In the vicinity of the water the grass was
tolerably good, but the declivities upon which it principally grew, were
steep and very stony.
Having hobbled the horses, I took my gun, and walked down the
watercourse, to a place where it forms a junction with a larger one, but
in neither could I find any more water. Upon my return, I found that the
native boy had caught an opossum in one of the trees near, which proved a
valuable addition to our scanty and unvaried fare. The latitude to-day
was 30 degrees 51 minutes S.
July 16.--Tracing down the watercourse we were encamped on, to the
junction before mentioned, I steered a little more to the north, to
ascend a high stony range, from which I hoped to obtain a view to the
eastward; but after considerable toil in climbing, and dragging our
horses over loose rolling stones, which put them constantly in danger of
falling back, I was not rewarded for the trouble I had taken: the view to
the east was quite shut out by high rugged ranges of ironstone and
quartz, whilst to the north, the hills appeared lower and more open.
It now became a matter of serious consideration, whether I should pursue
my researches any farther at present. I was already about 120 miles away
from my party, with barely provisions enough to last me back; and the
country, in advance, appeared to be getting daily more difficult; added
to this, the "WATERWITCH" was waiting at the head of Spencer's Gulf for
my return.
After reflecting on my position, I decided to rejoin my party without
delay; and descending the range to the S. E., I steered for a large
watercourse we had crossed in the morning; intending to trace it up, for
the purpose of examining its branches. The bed of this watercourse, at
first, was very wide, and lined with gum-trees; but as I advanced, I
found its channel became contracted, and very rocky, the gum-trees
disappearing, and giving place to the salt-water tea-tree. By nightfall,
I was unable to proceed any further, owing to the large stones and rocks
that interposed themselves. Retracing my steps, therefore, for a mile or
two, to a little grass I had observed as I passed by, I bivouacked for
the night, being, as well as the horses, quite knocked up. The native
boy, who accompanied me, was equally fatigued; and we were both lame from
walking across so rugged a country, over a great portion of which we
found it quite impracticable to ride. Our stage could not have been less
than twenty-five or twenty-six miles during the day, yet we had not met
with a drop of water, even though we had high ranges, large watercourses,
and huge gum-trees on every side of us. As usual, the traces of high
floods were numerous; and the channels of these watercourses, confined as
they are by precipitous ranges, must, at times, be filled by rapid and
overwhelming torrents, which would collect there after heavy rains.
Some great progressive change appears to be taking place in the climate
and seasons of this part of the country, as, in many of the watercourses,
we found all the gum-trees either dying or dead, without any young trees
growing up to replace them. The moisture which had promoted their growth,
and brought them to maturity, existed no longer; and in many places, only
the wreck of noble trees remained to indicate to the traveller what once
had been the character of this now arid region. In other watercourses the
gum-trees were still green and flourishing, and of giant growth; but we
were equally unable to discover water in these,[Note 5: We had no means
with us of digging--possibly moisture existed below the surface where the
trees were so large and green.] as in those where the trees were decaying
or withered.
July 17.--To-day we returned to our temporary camp, tracing up various
branches of the water-courses as we went along, but without finding
water. Many of the ranges in our route consisted of masses of ironstone,
apparently containing a very large proportion of metal. In one place, I
found a mineral which I took to be tin ore; the loss, however, of all the
geological specimens I collected, after their arrival in Adelaide, has
unfortunately put it now beyond my power to test any of the rocks or
minerals, about which I was doubtful. As we encamped early, and I was
desirous of recruiting the horses, I employed myself in taking an
observation for latitude, whilst the black boy went out to look for an
opossum. He succeeded in bringing in a fine large one, which formed a
welcome addition to our meagre fare. The nights were still very frosty.
July 18.--In travelling to "Depot Pool," the native boy caught another
opossum, and we again halted early in the day for the sake of resting the
horses.
July 19.--Concealing among some rocks every thing we did not absolutely
require, we descended towards the plains, searching as we went, for the
most favourable line of road to them, for the drays, but at best the
country was very rough and stony.
After clearing the hills, we made a stage of twenty-eight miles along the
plains running under Flinders range, and at night encamped upon a channel
coming out of it, where we obtained water, but very little grass for our
horses.
July 20.--To-day I kept behind some of the low front hills, passing
through some extensive valleys between them and the main range; and as I
found abundance of water lying in pools upon the plains, I did not make
for the hills at all.
Before sunset, I got a shot at a kangaroo with my rifle, which, though
severely wounded, gave me a long chase before I could capture it; this
furnished us with a welcome and luxurious repast. We had been so long
living upon nothing but the bush baked bread, called damper (so named, I
imagine, from its heavy, sodden character), with the exception of the one
or two occasions upon which the native boy had added an opossum to our
fare, that we were delighted to obtain a supply of animal food for a
change; and the boy, to shew how he appreciated our good luck, ate
several pounds of it for his supper. Our horses were equally fortunate
with ourselves, for we obtained both good grass and water for them.
July 21.--Taking with us the best part of what was left of the kangaroo,
we crossed a stony ridge to the S. W., and at four miles struck a
watercourse with a large pool of water in its bed, and well adapted for a
halting place for the party on their route to the north: we had not seen
this in our outward course, having kept further to the westward in the
plains. From the water-hole, Mount Eyre bore W. 30 degrees S. distant
five miles.
Upon leaving this pool I pushed on as rapidly as I could, being anxious
to rejoin my party; and after a hard and fatiguing ride of forty miles,
arrived at the depot under Mount Arden, late in the day, having been
absent sixteen days. I had been anxiously expected, and was cordially
welcomed by the whole party, who were getting sadly tired of inactivity,
and especially by my young friend Mr. Scott, whose eager and ardent
disposition rendered him quite uneasy under the confinement and restraint
of a depot encampment; he would gladly have shared with me the
difficulties and hazards of exploring the country in advance, but from
the very embarrassing nature of the undertaking, I did not think it right
to take more than a single native with me, as every addition to the
number of a party, on such occasions, only tends to increase the
difficulty and anxiety of the task.
Having rested a little, and made innumerable inquiries, I was very much
gratified to find that the whole party were in good health, and that
every thing had been conducted in a satisfactory manner during my
absence. No one had been idle, and every thing that I could have wished,
had been properly arranged. The stores had been safely brought up from
the WATERWITCH, including a barometer kindly sent by the Governor, and a
large packet of English letters, at any time a highly valued prize, and
not the less so now that they were received 200 miles in the interior,
amidst the labours and anxieties of an exploring expedition.
During my absence all the harness, hobbles, tents, tarpaulins, etc. had
been fully repaired; and according to my instructions, a large deep hole
had been dug in the slope of the hill, to bury a portion of the stores
in, that if compelled by circumstances to return from the north, we might
still have supplies to fall back upon. Mr. Scott had employed his time in
collecting botanical and geological specimens, and had already made a
very fair commencement for our collections in both these departments of
science. He had also regularly kept the meteorological journal,
registering the observations three times in each day.
July 22.--After breakfast I had all the stores reweighed, and examined
the supplies sent us in the WATERWITCH, which consisted chiefly of flour,
biscuit, sugar, tea, salt pork, soap, tobacco, salt, canvas, etc. besides
many little luxuries which the kindness of the Governor, and the
consideration of our many friends had added to the list.
The men during my absence, having been living entirely upon salt pork, to
economize the sheep, were glad to receive the kangaroo which I brought
home with me.
Having inspected the stores, the whole party were put upon their
travelling rations, and the first week's allowance was issued to each,
consisting of ten pounds of meat, seven pounds of biscuit or flour, a
quarter of a pound of tea, a pound and a half of sugar, a quarter of a
pound of soap, and the same quantity of tobacco.
Provisions of different kinds were then weighed out, headed up in casks,
and buried in the hole dug by the men during my absence, to wait our
return, if ever it should be our lot to reach the place again. The
remainder were all properly packed up, and the drays loaded and arranged
for moving on.
After satisfactorily concluding all the preparations for leaving the
depot, I employed myself busily in writing letters and despatches until a
very late hour of the night, as it was the last opportunity I should have
for a long time, of reporting our prospects and progress, or of thanking
the Governor and our numerous friends, for the many attentions we had
experienced.
I had hardly retired to rest before I was suddenly seized with a violent
attack of illness, arising probably from cold and over-exertion, now that
a return to my party had removed the stimulus to activity, and permitted
a reaction in the system to take place.
July 23.--This morning I felt weak, and still very ill, and it was with
great difficulty I could manage to close my letters, and give the
necessary instructions to the overseer, whom I sent down to the head of
Spencer's Gulf, with orders to the master of the cutter to sail for
Adelaide, and to report what he had seen at the salt inlets in the east
side of Spencer's Gulf, which I had directed him to examine in the boats
whilst I was absent exploring to the north. His reply was, that there was
water enough for a ship to lie within one mile of the shore, that there
was a tolerable landing place, but that he had found no fresh water. The
men were employed during the day making a new tarpaulin from the canvas
sent up in the WATERWITCH. The following is a copy of the Report sent to
the Governor, and to the Chairman of the Committee for promoting the
expedition.
"Depot, near Mount Arden,
July 22nd, 1840.
"Sir,--I have the honour to acquaint you for the information of His
Excellency the Governor, and of the colonists interested in the northern
expedition, with the progress made up to the present date.
"I arrived here with my party all well, on the 3rd July instant, and on
the 6th I proceeded, accompanied by one of my native boys, on horseback,
to reconnoitre Lake Torrens and the country to the north of the depot,
leaving the party in camp to rest the horses and enable the overseer to
get up, from the head of Spencer's Gulf, the supplies kindly sent by His
Excellency the Governor in the WATERWITCH--her arrival having been
signalised the evening previous to my leaving. I arrived on the shores of
Lake Torrens the third day after leaving the depot, and have ascertained
that it is a basin of considerable magnitude, extending certainly over a
space varying in width from 15 to 20 miles, and with a length of from 40
to 50, from its southern extremity, to the most northerly part of it,
visible from a high summit in Flinders range, (about ninety miles north
of Mount Arden). The lake is girded with an outer ridge of sand, covered
with salsolaceous plants, and with saline crusts, shewing above the
ground at intervals. Its waters appear to extend over a considerable
surface, but they are, seemingly, shallow. I could not approach the
water, from the soft nature of that part of its bed, which is uncovered,
and which appeared to reach from three to four miles from the outer bank
to the water's edge. There can be no doubt, however, of its being very
salt, as that portion of its bed which lay exposed to our view was
thickly coated with pungent particles of salt. There were not any trees
or shrubs of any kind near the lake where we made it, nor could either
grass or fresh water be procured for our horses. Lake Torrens is bounded
on its western side by high lands--apparently a continuation of the table
land to the westward of the head of Spencer's Gulf.--I should think that
it must receive a considerable drainage from that quarter, as well as the
whole of the waters falling from Flinders range to the eastward.
"From the very inhospitable nature of the country, around the lake, I
could not examine it so carefully or so extensively as I could have
wished. My time, too, being very limited, made me hurry away to the
northward, to search for a place to which I might bring on my party, as
the grass in the neighbourhood of the depot was very old, and much less
abundant than on either of my former visits there. It became, therefore,
imperative on me to remove the horses as speedily as possible. Should
circumstances permit, I shall, however, endeavour to visit Lake Torrens
again, on my return from the northern interior. After leaving the lake I
spent many days in examining the country to the northward of our depot.
Its character seemed to vary but little; barren sandy plains still formed
the lower level, and the hills constituting the continuation of Flinders
range were still composed of quartz and ironstone; they were, however,
gradually becoming less elevated and more detached, with intervals of
stony valleys between, and the whole country was, if possible, assuming a
more barren aspect, while the springs, which had heretofore been numerous
among the hills, were very few in number--difficult to find--and very far
in amongst the ranges. After most anxious and laborious search, I at last
succeeded in finding a place about ninety miles (of latitude) north of
Mount Arden, to which I can remove my depot, and from which I can again
penetrate more to the northward.
"After an absence of sixteen days I rejoined my party under Mount Arden
on the evening of the 21st July, and found they had safely received all
the supplies sent for our use by the WATERWITCH. The latter has been
detained until my return, for despatches, which I shall send down
to-morrow, and on the 24th I intend to move on with my party to the new
depot. I regret it is not in my power to afford more certain information
as to the future prospects of the expedition, but where so little
alteration has taken place, in the features of the country I have been
examining, conjectures alone can anticipate what may be beyond. From the
very difficult nature of the country we are advancing into, our further
progress must necessarily be very slow for some time, but I still hope
that by patience and perseverance we shall ultimately succeed in
accomplishing the object of the expedition.
"I have the honour to be, Sir,
"Your most obedient humble Servant,
"EDWARD JOHN EYRE."
"To the Chairman of the Committee of Colonists for promoting the Northern
Expedition."
* * *
"Depot, near Mount Arden,
July 22nd, 1840.
"My Dear Sir,--I beg to enclose a copy of the report of our proceedings
up to the present date, for the perusal of his Excellency the Governor.
By it his Excellency will perceive that the very inhospitable nature of
the country around Lake Torrens, added to my anxiety to remove our horses
from the depot near Mount Arden, where there was but very little grass
for them, prevented my devoting so much time to the examination of the
lake and the country around it, as I should have wished; and I therefore
intend, if possible, on my return, to investigate it more fully, being
anxious to ascertain, whether, as I suppose, there is a considerable
drainage into it from the westward. The high land seen on its opposite
side, appears to be a continuation of the table land, lying to the west
of the head of Spencer's Gulf; and though the fall of the country appears
to be to the north, I begin to be of opinion now that it is not in
reality. Lake Torrens is evidently the basin into which all the waters
from Flinders range fall, and its extent is very considerable; in fact,
where I last saw it to the north, it was impossible to say whether it
terminated or not, from the very great distance it was off. The country
lying between Flinders range on the one side, and the table land on the
other, and north of Spencer's Gulf, is of so low and so level a character
that the eye alone is not a sufficient guide as to the direction in which
the fall may be. On my previous visits, I felt convinced it was
northerly, but I am now inclined to think that the drainage from Lake
Torrens in seasons of wet, is to the south, into the head of the Gulf;
and I can only account for there not being a larger connecting
watercourse than the small shallow one found when crossing from Streaky
Bay--and which I did not then imagine extended far above the head of the
Gulf--by supposing that the seasons have so altered of late years that
the overflow of the lake has never been sufficient to cause a run of
water to the Gulf. Should my present supposition be correct, the idea of
a northerly drainage is done away with, and we have yet to come to a
"division of the waters." My uncertainty on this most important point has
made me most anxious to get my party removed to a place where they can
remain until I can decide so interesting a point, and one on which our
future prospects so much depend. The same causes that prevented my
staying a little longer in the neighbourhood of the Lake have also
prevented, as yet, my extending my researches to the north for more than
about forty miles farther than I had been when last in this
neighbourhood. The only change I observed, was the increasing barren
appearance of the country--the decrease in elevation of the ranges--their
becoming more detached, with sterile valleys between--and the general
absence of springs; the rock of the higher ridges, which were very rugged
and abrupt, was still the same, quartz and ironstone, but much more of
the latter than I had before seen, and, in some cases, with a very great
proportion of metal to the stone. The lower ridges and steep banks, when
washed away by the rains, presented great quantities of a very pungent
salt to the eye of the observer, mixed with the clay and sand of which
the banks were formed; and in this neighbourhood the watercourses were
(though dry) all lined with the salt-water tea-tree--a shrub we had never
before seen under Flinders range. My next push to the north will probably
throw some light upon our future prospects, and I only regret it will not
be in my power to communicate the intelligence. I intended to have sent
his Excellency a rough sketch of my last route, but have not been able to
get it ready in time, and I fear I have already detained the little
cutter too long: during their detention, I requested the master to
examine some salt water inlets on the east side of Spencer's Gulf, and he
said he would, but I have not yet heard the result of his researches.
Should he have found, a good landing-place for goods, it would be of much
importance to the northern parts of the colony when they become stocked;
and nearly all the country as far as the head of the Gulf is more or less
adapted for grazing. Pray return my best thanks to his Excellency for the
abundant supply of stores we have received by the WATERWITCH--especially
for the barometer, which has arrived quite safely. I shall take great
care of it, and shall make observations, whenever practicable, three
times a day--8, a.m., noon, and 5, p.m. I only returned late last night,
and have been so busy to-day preparing every thing for leaving the depot,
that I have been obliged to put off my writing until night; and I am now
acribbling in the tent, on my bed, with my young friend, Mr. Scott, fast
asleep, and a cold bleak wind whistling through the place, so that I fear
my writing will be scarcely legible. I send down the letters to the
cutter in the morning, and intend to move on my party on the 24th. With
kind remembrance to his Excellency, Mrs. Gawler, and family--
"Believe me, etc.
"EDWARD JOHN EYRE.
"G. Hall, Esq."
Chapter V.
BREAK UP THE ENCAMPMENT--ARRIVE AT DEPOT POOL--GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER OF
THE COUNTRY--BAROMETERS OUT OF ORDER--ADVANCE TO RECONNOITRE--ASCEND
TERMINATION HILL--SURPRISE NATIVE WOMEN--THEY ABANDON THEIR
CHILDREN--INEFFECTUAL SEARCH FOR WATER--RETURN TOWARDS MOUNT
DECEPTION--BROKEN CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--FIND WATER--THE SCOTT--REJOIN
THE PARTY--WATER ALL USED AT DEPOT--EMBARRASSING CIRCUMSTANCES--REMOVE TO
THE SCOTT--RECONNOITRE IN ADVANCE--BARREN COUNTRY--TABLE TOPPED
ELEVATIONS--INDICATIONS OF THE VIOLENT ACTION OF WATER--MEET
NATIVES--REACH LAKE TORRENS--THE WATER SALT--OBLIGED TO RETURN--ARRIVAL
AT DEPOT--HOSTILE DEMONSTRATIONS OF THE NATIVES.
July 25.--To-DAY we broke up the camp, and commenced our labours in
earnest, the men and the horses having had a rest of three weeks; the
latter were in splendid condition and spirits, having eaten twenty-five
bushels of oats, which had been sent up in the WATERWITCH. Every thing
had been well and conveniently arranged, and the whole moved on with an
order and regularity that was very gratifying.
I was very ill at starting, and remained so for some days after, but as I
had already been twice over the ground, and as my native boy was able to
act as guide to the party, my indisposition was not of so much
consequence as it would have been under other circumstances. At times I
was quite incapable of any exertion, and could not attend to any thing,
being hardly able to sit upon my horse for half an hour together. From
the 25th to the evening of the 30th, we were engaged in travelling from
Mount Arden to Depot Pool, by the same line of route by which myself and
the native boy had returned from our exploration. In our progress we
noticed many traces of natives around us, and saw many native fires among
the hills; the people themselves did not, however, appear.
By a little trouble in examining the watercourses before encamping, we
were generally able to procure water for our horses, at some distance
among the hills; and we were usually fortunate enough to obtain tolerable
food for them also. The grass, it is true, was generally scanty, or dry;
but we found a succulent plant of the geranium tribe, bearing a small
blue flower, and growing where the channels of the watercourses spread
out in the plains, in the greatest abundance, and in the wildest
luxuriance; of this the horses were extremely fond, and it appeared to
keep them in good condition and spirits.
July 30.--The geological formation of the country we had passed through,
consisted in the higher ranges of an argillaceous rock, of quartz, or of
ironstone. Upon some of the hills the small loose stones had a vitrified
appearance--in others they looked like the scoria of a furnace, and
appeared to be of volcanic origin, but nowhere did I observe the
appearance of anything like a crater. In the lower or front hills the
rock was argillaceous, of a hard slaty nature, and inclined at an angle
of about 45 degrees from the horizontal. This formation was frequently
traversed by dykes of grey limestone of a very hard texture.
Upon watering the horses at the hole in the rock, I was much disappointed
to find that they had already sunk it eighteen inches, and now began to
fear that it would not last them so long as I had anticipated, and that I
should still be obliged to cross over the hills to the very rocky channel
where I had found permanent water on the 15th of July. This I was
desirous, if possible, to avoid, both from the difficult nature of the
road by which that water must be reached, and from the circumstance that
it was going so much out of our way into an all but impracticable
country, and that consequently, when we did move on again to the north,
we should be obliged to come all the way back again over the same bad
road to gain the open country under Flinders range, where alone we could
hope to make any progress with the drays.
July 31.--Having remained all day in camp to rest the party, I found that
the horses had again made a great diminution in the depth of the water in
the rock, I therefore had the drays all prepared in the evening,
intending to move away to the other water-course in the morning; but the
next day the horses had unfortunately strayed, and it was late before
they were brought up, so that we could not get away. Upon watering them
when they arrived, I found that less impression was made upon the water
than on the previous days; and after an anxious consultation with my
overseer, I decided upon leaving the party in camp at Depot Pool until I
could reconnoitre further north and return.
August 1.--To prevent any difficulties during my absence, in the event of
the water failing in the rocky hole, I sent the native boy to shew the
overseer the place where the permanent water was, and gave him
instructions to move the party thither if he should find it necessary;
but not until their safety absolutely required it, or before he had fully
ascertained that no water was to be procured by digging in the bed of any
of the adjoining watercourses. During his absence, I employed myself
busily in getting ready for another push to the north with the native boy
to search for a new depot, as in a country so difficult and embarrassing,
it was quite impracticable to move on the party until after having
previously ascertained where they could be taken to with safety. Upon
examining the barometers to-day, I was much concerned to find that they
were both out of order and useless; the damp had softened the glue
fastening the bags of leather which hold the quicksilver, and the
leathers that were glued over the joints of the cisterns, and so much of
the mercury had escaped, before I was aware of it, that I found all the
previous observations valueless. I emptied the tubes and attempted to
refill them, but in so doing I unfortunately broke one of them, and the
other I could not get repaired in a satisfactory manner, not being able,
after all my efforts, to get rid of some small air bubbles that would
intrude, in spite of every care I could exercise.
August 2.--Leaving early, I took with me a native boy, and a man on
horseback, leading a pack-horse, to carry water, as I could not but be
apprehensive, lest we might find none in the country into which we were
advancing. In following down the Depot watercourse to the plains, we
found a fire where the natives had encamped the previous night. This
surprised us, because we were not aware that there were any so
immediately in our vicinity. It however shewed us the necessity of
vigilance and circumspection in our future movements.
Steering for the most western point of Mount Deception range, until we
opened one still more distant to the north-west, and which I named
Termination Hill, we kept pushing on through barren stony plains, without
grass or shrubs, and arrived late in the afternoon upon a large
watercourse with gum-trees, but could find no water in its bed. Near it,
however, in the plains, we were fortunate enough to discover a puddle of
rain water, and at once halted for the night, though the feed was
indifferent. We had travelled twenty-eight miles, and the pack-horse
carrying twelve gallons of water, was considerably fatigued. At the
puddle, two teal were seen, which indicated the existence of a larger
body of water somewhere in the neighbourhood, but our efforts to find it
were unsuccessful.
August 3.--Crossing very heavy sandy ridges, we passed at intervals one
or two dry watercourses, and the beds of some small dry lakes among the
sandy ridges, in one of which was a little rain water which appeared to
be rapidly drying up. Watering the horses we moved on for Termination
Hill, but the nature of the country had been so unfavourable, that the
pack-horse was knocked up, and I was obliged to halt four miles short of
our intended destination, and where there was but poor feed for the
animals. After dinner I walked to Termination Hill and ascended it. Like
all the others I had recently examined, it was composed principally of
quartz, ironstone and a kind of slaty rock; the low hills in front
exhibiting the grey limestone, whilst patches of gum scrub were
observable in many places. From the summit of Termination Hill, Lake
Torrens bore W. 20 degrees S. but the view was obstructed by intervening
sand ridges, the elevated land on the opposite shore of the lake still
appeared to continue, and was visibly further north than the lake itself,
which, as I observed, was partially shut out by the ridges. To the north
were low broken hills similar to those around me, but less elevated, and
immediately under these hills to the westward, were heavy red sandy
ridges, such as we had crossed during the day. To the eastward and ten
degrees north of east were seen Flinders range, with which Mount
Deception and Termination Hills were connected, by low long spurs thrown
off to the northward. In the north-east the horizon was one unbroken,
low, flat, level waste, with here and there small table-topped
elevations, appearing white in the distance and seemingly exhibiting
precipitous faces. Wherever I turned, or whatever way I looked, the
prospect was cheerless and disheartening. Our stage had been twenty-two
miles.
August 4.--After giving five gallons of water each to my own and the
native boy's horse, I sent back the man with the pack-horse and the empty
kegs to the depot. We then steered E. 5 degrees S. across some very
extensive barren stony plains, occasionally broken into irregular
surfaces with steep white banks (of a fine freestone), forming the
termination of the higher levels, fronting the hollows. These hollows or
flats were covered with salsolaceous plants and samphire, and appeared
once to have been salt swamps.
At twenty miles we came to a small watercourse emanating from the eastern
hills, which we had now reached, and soon after to a larger one which we
traced up for five miles among the front hills, which were composed of
limestone, but were then obliged to encamp without water. Whilst rambling
about after turning out the horses, I met with a party of native women
and children, but could gain no information from them. They would not
permit me to come near them, and at last fairly ran away, leaving at
their fire two young children who could not escape. I then went to their
camp and examined the bags and property which had been left, and amongst
other things found two kangaroo skins full of water, each containing from
six to eight quarts; it was quite muddy, and had evidently been taken
from a puddle in the plains, and carried to the present encampment in the
bed of the watercourse. Having helped ourselves to some of the water, I
tied a red pocket handkerchief round one of the children, as payment for
it and returned to our own camp.
August 5.--During the night I was taken very ill again, and felt quite
weak when I arose this morning, but circumstances admitted of no delay,
and I was obliged to go on with my exploration: I continued to trace up
the creek, which I found to be large and lined with gum-trees for many
miles among rocky and precipitous hills, but altogether without water,
and as I knew of none of this requisite, of a permanent character, behind
me, I determined to retrace my steps again to Mount Deception range. In
doing so, I had to pass near the place from whence the natives had taken
flight, and from curiosity called to see if the children had been taken
away; to my surprise and regret I found them still remaining, they had
been left by their unnatural or terrified parents without food, and
exposed to the inclemency of a cold winter's night; the fire had gone
out, and the eldest of the children had scraped a hole among the ashes in
which both were lying. They were alarmed when they saw me, and would take
nothing I offered them. The child around whom I had tied the
handkerchief, had managed to get it off and throw it to one side. I now
scarcely knew what to do, as I was fearful if I left them there, and the
parents did not return, the poor little children might perish, and yet I
was so far away from my own party, and in such difficult circumstances,
that I knew not how I could take them with me. Upon due reflection, and
considering that I had not seen a single male native, it struck me that
the women might have gone for the men and would probably return by the
evening to see where their little ones were.
Under this impression, I put the handkerchief again round the eldest
child, and tying it firmly, I left them; I had hopes too, that some of
the natives were watching our movements from the hills, and in this case
they would at once return, when they saw us fairly depart from the
neighbourhood.
Keeping a little to the south of west, I still found the country very
much broken into hollows, with high steep banks bounding them, this
singular formation being apparently the result of the violent action of
water; but how long ago and under what circumstances I had no means of
judging. Having found a puddle of water in the plains, I halted for the
night, our stage having been about twenty miles.
August 6.--We again passed many of those singular hollows fronted by the
high steep banks of the upper levels, and then crossed some low ironstone
ridges to a channel emanating from Mount Deception range. This I traced
through the hills to the westward without finding any water, and then
following down the Mount Deception range in its western slopes, I
examined all the watercourses coming from it; in one, which I named The
Scott, after my young friend and fellow traveller, I found a large hole
of rain water among the rocks, and at this I halted to rest and feed the
horses. The latitude of the water in The Scott was 30 degrees 32 minutes
S. Pushing on again, late in the afternoon, I reached our camp of the 2nd
August, quite tired, and the horses much fatigued, the puddle of water we
had found here on our outward course was now nearly all dried up.
August 7.--Making an early start I returned to the Depot Pool, and found
the party all well. They were, however, just preparing to move away, as
the water was nearly all gone. The drays were packed and everything ready
when I arrived; they had tried to obtain water by digging, but had
failed, having been stopped by hard rock.
I was now in a very awkward dilemma. The water where we were, had been
all used, and we must consequently remove at once,--but where to, was the
question? If I went to the permanent water to the eastward, I gained
nothing, as I only harassed my party by travelling through an almost
impracticable country, over which we must return before we could move
further to the north,--and if I went to the N. W. to The Scott, I went to
a mere puddle of water, precarious and uncertain at the best, and at
which, under any circumstances, we could not remain long:--yet move I
must, as soon as the morning dawned. Many and anxious were the hours I
spent in consideration and reflection.
Little indeed are the public aware of the difficulties and
responsibilities attached to the command of an expedition of
exploration;--the incessant toil, the sleepless hours, the anxious
thoughts that necessarily fall to the share of the leader of a party
under circumstances of difficulty or danger, are but imperfectly
understood and less appreciated by the world at large. Accustomed to
judge of undertakings only by their results, they are frequently as
unjust in their censure as they are excessive in their approval. The
traveller who discovers a rich and well watered district, encounters but
few of the hardships, and still fewer of the anxieties, that fall to the
lot of the explorer in desert regions, yet is the former lauded with
praise, whilst the latter is condemned to obloquy; although the success
perhaps of the one, or the failure of the other, may have arisen from
circumstances over which individually neither had any control.
August 8.--The horses having rambled a little this morning it was rather
late before we got away, I had, however, made up my mind to advance at
all risks, and we accordingly travelled sixteen miles to the N. W.;
halting without any water upon the large watercourse emanating from Mount
Deception; there was no grass either, and we were consequently obliged to
tie up our horses for the night.
August 9.--The sheep had broken out of their yard, and could not be found
this morning; so sending the party on with the native boy as a guide, I
remained behind myself with the overseer, to search for them; they were
soon found, and we moved on after the drays. In going up the watercourse
I again found a native fire, where natives had been encamped within a
mile of us during the night, without our being aware of it; so difficult
is it always to know the proximity of these children of the wilds.
Having overtaken the party, I conducted them to The Scott, at which we
arrived early in the day, though the distance could not be less than 20
miles. At night a party of natives were seen near, but did not come up to
us.
August 10.--To day I prepared for another exploration to the N. W. and
had all our casks and kegs new coopered and filled with water, to make
them water tight. I found it necessary also to have our horses new shod,
which was the third set of shoes they had required in less than two
months, in consequence of the hard and stony roads over which we had
travelled. The natives were again encamped near us at night, but did not
come up.
August 11.--Leaving directions for the overseer to dig for water during
my absence, I took a native boy and one man driving a cart loaded with
water; we had mustered all the casks and kegs in the party, holding
altogether 65 gallons, and to draw this I had our three best draught
horses yoked to the light cart, being determined to push as far as
possible to the N. W. before I returned. At first we passed over a good
road but stony, then over heavy red sand ridges, and at night encamped in
a gorge coming from Termination Hill, where we had excellent feed for the
horses, but no water. The traces of natives were numerous and recent, and
I imagine they must obtain their supply of water at puddles in the
plains, but we could find none at present. The weather was very hot and
the flies excessively annoying, even at this early period of the year. We
gave each of the horses three gallons of water out of the kegs, after
which they fed well; the hills, as we advanced were getting lower, and
the sandy ridges now wound close under them, and in some instances even
among them; still there were many birds around us, amongst which cockatoo
parrots were very numerous. Our stage was about 23 miles.
August 12.--Steering to the N. W. to a low range (the highest summit of
which I named Mount North-west,) we just kept far enough in the plains to
intercept the watercourses from the hills where they spread into the
level country, and by this means we got excellent feed for our horses;
generally the same rich succulent herbage I have mentioned before,
occasionally mixed with wild oats. It was only in places of this
description that we could expect to find anything for our horses. In the
plains or on the hills there was not a blade of of anything green; at
night we encamped upon a small dry channel with tolerable feed, but no
water, and we again gave each horse three gallons from our kegs.
The country we were traversing as yet under-went no alteration, the only
difference being, that the hills were getting lower and the watercourses
less numerous, and both apparently without water; the sand ridges came
more in among the hills, and the dry beds of small salt lakes were often
met with; the salsolae were more abundant, but the traces of natives were
now less frequent; whilst those we fell in with seemed for the most part
to have been left during the wet season. The rock formation still
continued the same, quartz, ironstone, slate, and grey limestone, with
saline crusts peeping above the ground in many places in the lower
levels; the sky was cloudy and threatened rain, but none fell: our stage
was 18 miles.
August 13.--Continuing our course to the N. W. I took on the cart for 13
miles to a large dry channel, coming from the hills, upon which we halted
for an hour or two to rest and feed the horses, as there were some
sprinklings of grass around. We had now a change in the appearance of the
country; the ironstone ranges seemed to decrease rapidly in elevation to
the north, and the region around appeared more level, with many very
singular looking table-topped elevations from 50 to 300 feet in height
and with steep precipitous sides which were red, with the ironstone
above, and white, with a substance like chalk, below. The country was
covered with salsolae, and we passed the beds of many dried up salt
lakes. Ascending the highest ridge near us, I found Lake Torrens was no
longer visible, being shut out by the sandy ridges to the westward,
whilst the low ironstone hills impeded our view to the north, and to the
east. Having given our horses water, we buried twelve gallons against our
return, and sending back the man with the cart, and extra horses, the
native boy and I still pushed on to the N. W., taking a pack-horse to
carry our provisions and a few quarts of water for ourselves.
As we proceeded, the country changed to extensive plains and undulations
of stones and gravel, washed perfectly level by water, and with the
stones as even in size and as regularly laid as if they had been picked
out and laid by a paviour. At intervals were interspersed many of the
fragments of table land I have alluded to before, only perhaps a little
less elevated than they had previously been; we passed also the beds of
several small dry watercourses, and encamped upon one of the largest,
long after dark, having travelled twenty-five miles since we left the
cart, and having made in the whole a day's journey of thirty-seven miles.
There was tolerable food in the bed of the watercourse, but the horses
were thirsty and eat but little. Unfortunately, in crossing the stony
ground, one of them cast a shoe, and began to go a little lame.
August 14.--Moving away very early we travelled sixteen miles due north,
through a very similar country, only that the stones and gravel in the
plains had become much finer and a good deal mixed with sand; the
fragments of table land still continued in every direction at intervals,
and their elevations still varied from 50 to 300 feet. In the upper part
these elevations appeared red from the red sandy soil, gravel, or
iron-stone grit which were generally found upon their summits. They had
all steep precipitous sides, which looked very white in the distance, and
were composed of a chalky substance, traversed by veins of very beautiful
gypsum. There were neither trees nor shrubs, nor grass, nor vegetation of
any kind except salsolaceous plants, and these every where abounded.
In the midst of these barren miserable plains I met with four natives, as
impoverished and wretched looking as the country they inhabited. As soon
as they saw us they took to their heels, apparently in great alarm, but
as I was anxious to find out from them if there was any water near, I
galloped after two of them, and upon coming up with them was very nearly
speared for my indiscretion; for the eldest of the two men, who had in
his hand a long, rude kind of spear with which he had been digging roots
or grubs out of the ground (although I could not see the least sign of
anything edible) finding that he was rather close pressed, suddenly
halted and faced me, raising his spear to throw.
The rapid pace at which I had been pursuing prevented my reining in my
horse, but by suddenly spurring him when within but a few yards of the
native, I wheeled on one side before the weapon had time to leave his
grasp, and then pulling up I tried to bring my friend to a parley at a
less dangerous distance.
Finding that I did not attempt to injure him, the native stood his
ground, though tremblingly, and kept incessantly vociferating, and waving
me away; to all my signs and inquiries, he was provokingly insensible,
and would not hear of anything but my immediate departure. Sometimes he
pointed to the north, motioning me to go in that direction, but the poor
wretch was in such a state of alarm and trepidation that I could make
nothing of him and left him. He remained very quietly until I had gone
nearly a quarter of a mile, and then thinking that he had a fair start,
he again took to his heels, and ran away as fast as he could in the
direction opposite to that I had taken.
Continuing our course northerly I steered for what appeared to be a small
lake not far away to the N. W. and crossed over some heavy ridges of
white sand; upon reaching the object of my search it proved to be a
winding arm of the main lake (Torrens) at first somewhat narrow, but
gradually enlarging as we traced it downwards. The bed of this arm was
coated over, as had been the dry part of the bed of the main lake, with a
very pungent salt, with mud and sand and water intermixed beneath the
upper crust.
Following the arm downwards I came to a long reach of water in its
channel, about two feet deep, perfectly clear, and as salt as the sea,
and I even fancied that it had that peculiar green tinge which sea-water
when shallow usually exhibits.
This water, however, was not continuous; a little further on, the channel
again became dry, as it increased in width in its approach to the main
lake, the bed of which, near its shores, was also dry. From a high bank
which I ascended, I had a full view of the lake stretching away to the
north-east, as far as the eye could reach, apparently about thirty miles
broad, and still seeming to be bounded on its western shores by a low
ridge, or table land, beyond which nothing could be seen. No hills were
visible any where, nor was there the least vegetation of any kind.
I was now upwards of 100 miles away from my party in a desert, without
grass or water, nor could I expect to obtain either until my return to
the creek, where I had left the twelve gallons, and this was about fifty
miles away. The main basin of Lake Torrens was still four or five miles
distant, and I could not expect to gain any thing by going down to its
shores; as on previous occasions, I had ascertained that to attempt to
cross it, or even to reach the water a few miles from its outer edge, was
quite impossible, from the boggy nature of its bed. From my present
elevation, the lake was seen bending round to the N. E., and I became
aware that it would be a barrier to all efforts to the north. My horses
were suffering, too, from want of water and food; and I had, therefore,
no alternative but to turn back from so inhospitable and impracticable a
country.
With a heavy heart, and many misgivings as to the future, I retreated
from the dismal scene, and measured back my steps as rapidly as possible
towards the creek where our stock of water was buried. From the state in
which our horses were, I knew, that to save their lives, it was necessary
to get them to water without loss of time, and I therefore continued our
homeward course during the whole night, and arrived early in the morning
at the place where I had parted from the cart.
August 15.--It was now necessary to use great caution in the management
of our jaded animals. During the last two days we had ridden them fully
100 miles over a heavy country, without food or water; and for the last
twenty-four hours they had never had a moment's rest; and now we had only
twelve gallons of water for three horses and ourselves, and were still
fifty miles away from the depot, without the possibility of getting a
further supply until our arrival there.
Having hobbled the horses out for an hour, we watched them until they had
rested a little, and got cool. I then gave them half of our supply of
water; and leaving them to feed under the superintendence of the native
boy, took my gun, and walked seven or eight miles up the creek, under a
scorching sun, to look for water, examining every gorge and nook, with an
eagerness and anxiety, which those only can know who have been similarly
circumstanced; but my search was in vain, and I returned to the
encampment tired and disappointed. Out of what was left of our water, the
boy and myself now made each a little tea, and then gave the remainder to
the horses; after which we laid down for an hour whilst they were
feeding. About four in the afternoon, we again saddled them, and moved
homewards, riding, as before, the whole night, with the exception of
about an hour, when we halted to feed the horses, upon meeting with a
rich bed of the succulent geranium, of which they were so fond.
August 16.--Travelling on steadily, we began early in the afternoon to
draw near to the depot; and when within a mile and half of it, I was
surprised, upon looking back, to see two natives trying to steal upon us
with spears, who, as soon as they perceived they were observed, rose up,
and made violent gestures of defiance, but at once desisted from
following us. A little further on, upon a rise not far from the depot, I
was still more astonished to see at least thirty of these savages; and I
hurried forwards as quickly as possible to ascertain what it could mean,
not without some anxiety for the safety of my party.
Chapter VI.
GAUSE OF HOSTILITY OF THE NATIVES--WELL SUNK UNSUCCESSFULLY--OVERSEER
SENT TO THE EAST--THE SCOTT EXAMINED--ROCK WALLABIE--OVERSEER'S
RETURN--ANOTHER VISIT TO LAKE TORRENS--BOGGY CHARACTER OF ITS
BED--EXTRAORDINARY EFFECTS OF MIRAGE AND REFRACTION--RETURN TO THE
CAMP--SUPPLY OF WATER EXHAUSTED--LEAVE THE DEPOT--THE MUNDY--THE
BURR--MOUNT SERLE--LAKE TORRENS TO THE EAST--MELANCHOLY PROSPECTS.
August 16.--UPON reaching the camp the extraordinary behaviour of the
natives was soon explained to me. At the time when I left the depot on
the 11th of August, in giving the overseer general directions for his
guidance, I had among other matters requested him, if he found any
natives in the neighbourhood, to try and get one up to the camp and
induce him to remain until my return, that we might, if possible, gain
some information as to the nature of the country or the direction of the
waters. In endeavouring to carry out my wishes, it seems he had one day
come across two or three natives in the plain, to whom he gave chase when
they ran away. The men escaped, but he came up with one of the females
and took her a prisoner to the camp, where he kept her for a couple of
days, but could gain no information from her; she either could not be
understood, or would not tell where there was water, although when signs
were made to her on the subject, she pointed to the east and to the
north-west. After keeping her for two days, during which, with the
exception of being a prisoner, she had been kindly treated, she was let
go with the present of a shirt and handkerchief.
It was to revenge this aggression that the natives had now assembled; for
which I could not blame them, nor could I help regretting that the
precipitancy of my overseer should have placed me in a position which
might possibly bring me into collision with the natives, and occasion a
sacrifice of life; an occurrence I should deplore most deeply under any
circumstances, but which would be doubly lamentable when I knew that my
own party had committed the first act of aggression.
The number of natives said to have been seen altogether, including women
and children, was between fifty and sixty, and though they had yet
actually committed no overt act against us, with the exception of trying
to steal upon myself and the native boy as we returned; yet they had
established themselves in the close vicinity of our encampment, and
repeatedly exhibited signs of defiance, such as throwing dust into the
air, shouting, and threatening with their weapons, and once or twice, the
evening before my arrival, crossing within a very short distance of the
tents, as if for the purpose of reconnoitring our position and strength;
I determined, however, nothing but the last extremity should ever induce
me to act on the defensive. [Note 6: "And they cried out, and cast off
their clothes, and threw dust into the air."--Acts xxii. 23.]
When on my return to the depot, I had seen the natives creeping after me
with their spears, I and the native boy at once halted, turned round and
went slowly towards them, upon this they retreated. They would see by
this that we did not fear them, and as the party at the camp had been
increased in number by our return, I thought they might probably be more
cautious in their hostile demonstrations, which for the present was the
case, for we saw nothing more of them for some time.
During my absence, the overseer, according to my instructions, had put a
party of men to dig for water in the bed of the creek, about four miles
from the depot, in a westerly direction and down upon the plains. They
were busy when I arrived at the depot; the soil already dug through had
been a very hard gravel, but as yet no water had been found, they had got
to a depth of about ten feet; but from the indurated character of the
soil were proceeding very slowly.
I was, however, too much fatigued to go and inspect the work immediately,
the boy and myself as well as the horses being completely worn out. We
had ridden in the last five days and a half, about two hundred miles, and
walked about twenty up and down rocky and precipitous creeks, whilst, for
the last two nights before our arrival we had scarcely been off the
horses' back.
On the 17th, which was dreadfully hot, I went in the afternoon to see
what progress was being made at the well, and found that only two feet
had been dug in the last twenty-four hours, whilst just as I arrived the
men came to a solid mass of rock, and could sink no further; I at once
ordered them to return to the camp, as I did not think it worth while to
make further attempts in so unkindly a soil, and indeed I was unwilling
to have my little party too much divided in the neighbourhood of so many
natives. The men themselves were very glad to get back to the camp,
having been apprehensive of an attack for the last two or three days.
August 18.--This morning I sent off the overseer and a native boy to the
eastward, to look for water in the watercourses I had been at on the 5th
of August, the Scott not having then been discovered; they would now be
thirty-six miles nearer water than any I was acquainted with at that
time, and would consequently be less hurried and embarrassed in their
movements than I was. By giving them a pack-horse to carry ten gallons of
water, I hoped they would be able to examine all the watercourses so
effectually as to secure the object of their search, for I felt satisfied
that water was to be found somewhere among the high ranges we had seen in
the direction they were going; I also directed the overseer to visit the
camp where the two native children had been left, and to see what had
been their fate.
During the day I employed myself in writing; the weather was excessively
close and oppressive, with heavy clouds coming up from the S. W. against
the wind at N. E. At night it blew almost a hurricane, accompanied by a
few drops of rain, after which, the wind then veered round to the north.
The 19th was another oppressive hot day, with a northerly wind, and
clouds of dust which darkened the air so that we could not see the hills
distinctly, although we were close under them. The flies were also
incessant in their persecuting attacks. What with flies and dust, and
heat and indisposition, I scarcely ever remember to have spent a more
disagreeable day in my life. My eyes were swollen and very sore, and
altogether I was scarcely able to attend to any thing or employ myself in
any profitable way.
August 20.--Some slight showers during the night made the weather cool
and pleasant, the day too was cloudy, and I was enabled to occupy myself
in charting, working out observations, etc. whilst Mr. Scott, by shooting,
supplied us with some wallabies. This animal is very like a rabbit when
running, and quite as delicate and excellent in eating.
August 21.--Not having seen the natives for the last two days, I thought
I might venture to explore the watercourse we were encamped upon, and set
off on horseback immediately after breakfast, accompanied by Mr. Scott.
We traced up its stony and rugged bed for about seven miles among the
hills, to a point where the scenery was peculiarly grand and sublime. The
cliffs rose perpendicularly from the channel of the watercourse to a
height of from six to eight hundred feet, towering above us in awful and
imposing prominencies. At their base was a large pool of clear though
brackish water; and a little beyond a clump of rushes, indicating the
existence of a spring. In the centre of these rushes the natives had dug
a small well, but the water was no better than that in the larger pool.
The natives generally resort to such places as these when the rain water
is dried up in the plains or among the hills immediately skirting them.
Far among the fastnesses of the interior ranges, these children of the
wilds find resources which always sustain them when their ordinary
supplies are cut off; but they are not of corresponding advantage to the
explorer, because they are difficult of access, not easily found, and
seldom contain any food for his horses, so that he can barely call at
them and pass on. Such was the wretched and impracticable character of
the country in which we were now placed.
Having tied up our horses, Mr. Scott and I ascended to the top of the
high cliff by winding along the ridges at the back of it. From its summit
we had an extensive view, and I was enabled to take several angles. One
of the high peaks in the Mount Deception range bearing S. 35 degrees W.
about five miles off I named Mount Scott. To the east were seen high
ranges, to which I had sent my overseer. Descending the hill we examined
the course of the watercourse a few miles further, and ascertaining that
there was no more water in it, retraced our steps towards the depot,
somewhat fatigued with clambering up rocky ranges under the oppressive
heat of an almost tropical sun.
In the course of the morning Mr. Scott shot a rock wallabie of rather a
large species, and many more were seen about the high perpendicular cliff
under which we had found the water. These singular animals appeared to
have a wonderful facility for scaling precipices, for they leapt and
clambered up among the steep sides of the cliffs in a manner quite
incredible, and where it was perfectly impossible for any human being to
follow them.
In the evening the overseer and native boy returned, they had traced up
the watercourse I turned back from on the 5th of August, and had found
water in it about eight miles beyond where I gave up the search. They had
also visited the native camp where the two little children had been left
deserted, they were now gone, and the whole plain around had been strewed
with green boughs. The handkerchief I had tied round the eldest child had
been taken off and left at the camp, the natives probably dreading to
have anything to do with property belonging to such fearful enchanters as
they doubtless suspected us to be.
Our party being once more all together, it became necessary to decide
upon our future movements, the water in the hole at the depot being
nearly all used, and what was left being very muddy and unpalatable.
Before I abandoned our present position, however, I was anxious to make a
journey to the shores of Lake Torrens to the westward; I had already
visited its basin at points fully 150 miles apart, viz. in about 29
degrees 10 minutes S. latitude, and in 31 degrees 30 minutes S. I had
also traced its course from various heights in Flinders range, from which
it was distinctly visible, and in my mind, had not the slightest doubt
that it was one continuous and connected basin. Still, from the hills of
our present depot, it was not visible to the north of west, and I should
not have felt myself justified in going away to the eastward, without
positively ascertaining its connection with the basin I was at to the
north-west; accordingly, as soon as the overseer returned I got ready for
another harassing and uninteresting journey to the westward.
August 22.--Setting off early this morning, accompanied by a native boy,
I steered W.N.W. For the first four miles, I took my overseer along with
me, to shew him the direction I intended to take, so that if I did not
return in two days, he might send a pack-horse with water to meet me
along the tracks.
After he had left I pushed steadily on for thirty-five miles, principally
over heavy sandy ridges, which were very fatiguing to the horses, and at
dark reached the outer dunes of the lake, where I was obliged to tie the
horses up to some small bushes, as there was neither water nor grass for
them. The bed of the lake where I struck it, seemed dry for some distance
from the shore, but towards the middle there appeared to be a large body
of water. From our camp Mount Deception bore E. 26 degrees S. and
Termination Hill, E. 35 degrees N.
August 23.--Starting early, I traced the course of the lake
north-westerly for ten miles, and was then able to satisfy myself that it
was a part of the same vast basin I had seen so much further to the
north, it inclined here considerably to the westward, and this
circumstance added to the high sandy ridges intervening between it and
Flinders range fully explained the cause of our not having observed its
course to the north of west from the hills near our depot. Crossing the
sandy ridge bounding the basin of the lake, I was surprised to see its
bed apparently much contracted, and the opposite shore distinctly
visible, high, rocky and bluff to the edge of the water, seemingly only
seven or eight miles distant, and with several small islands or rocks
scattered over its surface. This was however only deceptive, and caused
by the very refractive state of the atmosphere at the time, for upon
dismounting and leading the horses into the bed of the lake, the opposite
shore appeared to recede, and the rocks or islands turned out to be only
very small lumps of dirt or clay lying in the bed of the lake, and
increased in magnitude by refraction.
I penetrated into the basin of the lake for about six miles, and found it
so far without surface water. On entering at first, the horses sunk a
little in a stiff mud, after breaking through a white crust of salt,
which everywhere coated the surface and was about one eighth of an inch
in thickness, as we advanced the mud became much softer and greatly mixed
with salt water below the surface, until at last we found it impossible
to advance a step further, as the horses had already sunk up to their
bellies in the bog, and I was afraid we should never be able to extricate
them, and get them safely back to the shore. Could we have gone on for
some distance, I have no doubt that we should have found the bed of the
lake occupied by water, as there was every appearance of a large body of
it at a few miles to the west. As we advanced a great alteration had
taken place, in the aspect of the western shores. The bluff rocky banks
were no longer visible, but a low level country appeared to the view at
seemingly about fifteen or twenty miles distance. From the extraordinary
and deceptive appearances, caused by mirage and refraction, however, it
was impossible to tell what to make of sensible objects, or what to
believe on the evidence of vision, for upon turning back to retrace our
steps to the eastward, a vast sheet of water appeared to intervene
between us and the shore, whilst the Mount Deception ranges, which I knew
to be at least thirty-five miles distant, seemed to rise out of the bed
of the lake itself, the mock waters of which were laving their base, and
reflecting the inverted outline of their rugged summits. The whole scene
partook more of enchantment than reality, and as the eye wandered over
the smooth and unbroken crust of pure white salt which glazed the basin
of the lake, and which was lit up by the dazzling rays of a noonday sun,
the effect was glittering, and brilliant beyond conception.
[Very similar appearances seem to have been observed by Monsieur Peron,
on the S. W. coast near Geographe Bay. "A cette epoque nous eprouvions les
effets les plus singuliers du mirage; tantot les terres les plus
uniformes et les plus basses nous paroissoient portees au dessus des
eaux, et profondement dechirrees dans toutes leurs parties; tantot leurs
cretes superieures sembloient renversees, et reposer ainsi sur les
vagues; a chaque instant on croyoit voir au large de longues chaines de
recifs, et de brisans qui sembloient se reculer a mesure qu'on s'en
approchoit davantage."--VOYAGE DE DECOUVERTES AUX TERRES AUSTRALES REDIGE
PAR PERON.]
Upon regaining the eastern shore, I found that all I had been able to
effect was to determine that the lake still continued its course to the
N.W. that it was still guided as before, by a ridge like a sea shore,
that its area was undiminished, that its bed was dry on the surface for
at least six miles from the outer margin, and that from the increasing
softness of the mud, occasioned by its admixture with water, as I
proceeded there was every probability that still further west, water
would be found upon the surface. Beyond these few facts, all was
uncertainty and conjecture in this region of magic. Turning away from the
lake, I retraced my steps towards the depot, and halted at dark after a
stage of nearly forty miles. Here was neither grass nor water, and again
I was obliged to tie up the unfortunate horses, jaded, hungry and
thirsty.
During the night, I released one of the poor animals for an hour or two,
thinking he would not stray from his companion, and might, perhaps, crop
a few of the little shrubs growing on the sand ridges, but on searching
for him in the morning he was gone, and I had to walk twelve miles over
the heavy sand tracking him, the boy following along our outward track
with the other horse, for fear of missing the man who was to meet us with
water.
The stray horse had fortunately kept near the line we had followed in
going to the lake, and I came upon him in a very weak and miserable
condition, soon after the arrival of the man who had been sent to meet us
with water. By care and slow travelling, we reached the depot safely in
the afternoon, having crossed in going and returning, upwards of 100
miles of desert country, during the last three days, in which the horses
had got nothing either to eat or drink. It is painful in the extreme, to
be obliged to subject them to such hardships, but alas, in such a
country, what else can be done.
In the evening, I directed the overseer to have every thing got ready for
breaking up our encampment on the morrow, as the party had been fifteen
days in depot, and little else than mud remained in the hole which had
supplied them with water.
August 25.--Slight showers during the night, and the day dark and cloudy,
with rather an oppressive atmosphere. The horses had strayed during the
night, so that it was nine o'clock before we got away.
We had scarcely left the place of encampment, when shoutings were heard,
and signal fires lit up in every direction by the natives, to give
warning I imagine of our being abroad, and to call stragglers to their
camp. These people had still remained in our immediate vicinity, and were
now assembled in very considerable numbers on the brow of one of the
front ridges, to watch us pass by. They would not approach us, but as the
drays moved on kept running in a line with them, at some distance, and
occasionally shouting and gesticulating in an unintelligible manner.
In our first and only intercourse with these natives, we had
unfortunately given them just cause of offence, and I was most anxious,
if possible, before leaving, to efface the unfavourable impression which
they had received. Letting the drays therefore move on, I remained behind
with Mr. Scott, leading our horses, and trying to induce some of the
natives to come up to us; for a long time, however, our efforts were in
vain, but at last I succeeded in persuading a fine athletic looking man
to approach within a moderate distance; I then shewed him a tomahawk,
which I laid on the ground, making signs that I intended it for him. When
I had retired a little, he went and took it up, evidently comprehending
its use, and appearing much pleased with the gift; the others soon
congregated around him, and Mr. Scott and I mounting our horses, followed
the party, leaving the sable council to discuss the merits of their new
acquisition, and hoping that the unfavourable opinion with which we had
at first impressed them, would be somewhat modified for the future.
Steering N. 43 degrees W. for five miles, and then winding through the
range, in the bed of a watercourse to the plains on the other side, we
took a direction of E. 20 degrees N. for fifteen miles, arriving about
dark upon a small channel that I had crossed on the 14th of August. Here
was good feed for the horses, and plenty of water a little way up among
the hills. This watercourse I had not examined when I was here before,
preferring to trace up the larger one beyond instead. Had I followed
this, I should easily have found water, and been relieved from much of
the anxiety which I had then undergone.
In travelling through a country previously unexplored, no pains should be
spared in examining every spot, even the most unlikely, where it is
possible for water to exist, for after searching in vain, in large deep
rocky and likely looking watercourses, I have frequently found water in
some small branch or gorge, that had appeared too insignificant, or too
uninviting to require to be explored. This I named The Mundy, after my
friend, Alfred Mundy, Esq., now the Colonial Secretary of South
Australia.
Early this morning, I took Mr. Scott with me, to examine The Mundy,
leaving the overseer to proceed with the party.
After entering the hills a short distance, we found in the bed of the
Mundy a strongly running stream, connecting several reaches of waters,
upon which many black ducks were sailing about. This appeared to be one
of the finest and best streams we had yet discovered, although the water
was slightly impregnated with alum. After the watercourse left the hills,
the surface water all disappeared, the drainage being then absorbed by
the light sandy soil of the plains, and this had invariably been the case
with all the waters emanating from Flinders range.
Crossing some stony ridges, we followed the party up the large
watercourse, which I had traced so far on the 5th of August, since named
the Burr, after the Deputy Surveyor-general of the colony, and at
nineteen miles halted early in the afternoon, at some springs rising
among rocks and rushes in its bed. The water was very brackish, though
drinkable, but did not extend far on either side of the spot we were
encamped at, and when after dinner, I took a long walk up the watercourse
to search for more, I was unable to find any either in the main channel
or its branches. The grass was abundant and good. The latitude of the
camp I ascertained to be 30 degrees 27 minutes S.
August 27.--Having risen and breakfasted very early, I took Mr. Scott and
a native boy with me, and steered for a very high hill with rather a
rounded summit, bearing from our camp E. 17 degrees S. This I named Mount
Serle, in accordance with a request made to me before my departure, by
the Governor, that I would name some remarkable feature in the country
after Mr. Serle. This was the most prominent object we had hitherto met
with; among high ranges it appeared the highest, and from a height above
our present encampment, it had been selected by us as the most likely
point from which to obtain a view to the eastward.
The elevation of this hill could not be less than three thousand feet
above the level of the sea; but unfortunately, the injury my barometer
had sustained in the escape of some of the mercury, and my being unable
to fill it again properly, quite precluded me from ascertaining the
height with accuracy.
In our route to Mount Serle, we observed another hill rather more to the
northward, seemingly of as great an altitude as Mount Serle itself; this
was not situate in the Mount Serle range, nor had it been seen by us in
our view from the height above the depot.
At ten miles from our camp, we came to a large watercourse, emanating
from the Mount Serle range on the south side, and running close under its
western aspect, with an abundance of excellent clear water in it. This I
named the Frome, after the Surveyor-general of the colony, to whose
kindness I was so much indebted in preparing my outfit and for the loan
of instruments for the use of the expedition.
Having watered our horses we tied them up to some trees, and commenced
the ascent of Mount Serle on foot. The day was exceedingly hot, and we
found our task a much harder one than we had anticipated, being compelled
to wind up and down several steep and rugged ridges before we could reach
the main one.
At length, however, having overcome all difficulties we stood upon the
summit of the mountain. Our view was then extensive and final. At one
glance I saw the realization of my worst forebodings; and the termination
of the expedition of which I had the command. Lake Torrens now faced us
to the east, whilst on every side we were hemmed in by a barrier which we
could never hope to pass. Our toils and labours and privations, had all
been endured to no purpose; and the only alternative left us would be to
return, disappointed and baffled.
To the north and north-west the horizon was unbroken to the naked eye,
but with the aid of a powerful telescope I could discover fragments of
table land similar to those I had seen in the neighbourhood of the lake
in that direction. At N. 8 degrees W. a very small haycock-looking hill
might be seen above the level waste, probably the last of the low spurs
of Flinders range to the north. To the north-east, the view was
obstructed by a high range immediately in front of us, but to the east
and as far as E. 13 degrees S. we saw through a break in the hills, a
broad glittering belt in appearance, like the bed of a lake, but
apparently dry.
The ranges seemed to continue to the eas
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