Advanced Bridge; The Higher Principles of the Game Analysed and Explained
by J. B. Elwell · English · Gutenberg #51216 · 369,691 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: Advanced Bridge; The Higher Principles of the Game Analysed and Explained
Author: J. B. Elwell
Release date: February 14, 2016 [eBook #51216]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024
Language: English
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVANCED BRIDGE; THE HIGHER PRINCIPLES OF THE GAME ANALYSED AND EXPLAINED ***
Transcriber's Notes:
Underscores “_” before and after a word or phrase indicate _italics_
in the original text.
Equal signs “=” before and after a word or phrase indicate =bold=
in the original text.
Small capitals have been converted to SOLID capitals.
Old or antiquated spellings have been preserved.
The original text used both “redouble” and “re-double”
interchangeably. In this edition only the modern spelling of
“redouble” is used.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
ADVANCED BRIDGE
MR. ELWELL’S BOOKS
ADVANCED BRIDGE: The Higher
Principles of the Game
Analysed and Explained,
and their Application
Illustrated, by Hands taken
from Actual Play. $1.50,
net. Postage, 8 cents.
BRIDGE: Its Principles and
Rules of Play. $1.25, net.
THE ANALYSIS AND COMPLETE PLAY
OF THE BRIDGE TOURNAMENT
HANDS. 60 cents, net.
Postage, 5 cents.
ADVANCED BRIDGE
THE HIGHER PRINCIPLES OF THE GAME
ANALYSED AND EXPLAINED, AND
THEIR APPLICATION ILLUSTRATED,
BY HANDS TAKEN FROM
ACTUAL PLAY
BY
J. B. ELWELL
AUTHOR OF “ELWELL ON BRIDGE”
“BRIDGE TOURNAMENT HANDS”
SIXTH EDITION
NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
1907
COPYRIGHT, 1904, 1905, BY
J. B. ELWELL
[Illustration]
TO
MR. HENRY I. BARBEY
WHO FIRST INTRODUCED BRIDGE IN AMERICA
THE AUTHOR CORDIALLY DEDICATES
THIS BOOK
PREFACE
In the study of any game, the foundation of success must be a thorough
acquaintance with the principles of play. This once attained, future
progress becomes easy and rapid.
Many writers on Bridge have left much of the play to the individual
judgment and knowledge of the player, and in most works on this
subject, illustrations of the fundamental principles are largely
wanting.
The present work is an attempt to supply these deficiencies; this
volume is intended to aid the Bridge student in acquiring a practical
acquaintance with the various forms of attack and defence as outlined
by the best players. Particular attention is given to the dealer’s play
of the dummy hand, the management of trumps is outlined in detail, and
the underlying principles are fully illustrated by the complete play of
selected hands.
The writer has endeavoured to make this work simple in its arrangement
and style so as to be adapted to the capacity of all lovers of Bridge,
comprehensive and complete so as to be a sufficient and certain guide
in the most difficult as well as in the easy situations.
The laws of Bridge published in this edition have been prepared by
the author, who has used as a foundation the codes accepted by the
principal clubs of the world. The author does not favour the exaction
of a penalty for the dealer’s lead out of turn. The American opinion on
this point is divided, but the English practice is to exact no penalty.
Otherwise the various club codes show but minor differences.
CONTENTS
PAGE
PREFACE vii
THE LAWS OF BRIDGE 1
ETIQUETTE 22
BRIDGE FOR THREE PLAYERS 25
THE SCORE 27
Declaring to the score 27
Playing to the score 28
The non-dealer’s play to the score 29
THE DECLARATION 31
“No-Trump” declaration by the dealer 32
Rules for “No-Trump” declaration by the dealer 32
“No-Trump” with three aces 35
“No-Trump” with two aces and one other guarded suit 35
“No-Trump” with two aces 36
“No-Trump” with one ace 37
“No-Trump” without an ace 37
Examples of “No-Trump” makes 38
Hearts 38
Rules for the heart make 40
Five hearts including three honours 40
Five hearts including two honours 41
Five hearts with one honour 41
Four hearts with three honours 41
Examples of hands that should not be passed 42
Hearts in preference to “No-Trump” 42
Hearts, not “No-Trump” 43
Diamonds 43
Clubs 46
Spades 47
Passed makes 47
Abandoning spade hands 49
DOUBLING 51
Redoubling 54
Estimating the value of a hand 54
The lead when partner has doubled 55
The heart convention 57
The weak suit convention 57
THE NON-DEALER’S PLAY AGAINST A DECLARED TRUMP 59
The opening lead 60
Examples of opening leads 63
Inferences from high card leads 64
Inferences from low card leads 67
Examples of inference from opening leads 68
Original trump openings 70
Original trump openings from strength 72
The trump lead against a spade make 72
How to play to partner’s trump opening 73
Leading trumps to prevent a ruff in the weak trump hand 74
Short suit openings 74
Leading through strength 77
When to lead through strength 78
Choice of suits to lead through 79
Suggestions for third hand play 80
Inferences from third hand play 82
Leading up to dummy 87
The Echo 88
Forcing 89
Returning partner’s lead 91
Second hand play 91
When you play before the dummy 92
When you play before the dealer 94
INFERENCES 95
The value of information 96
How to draw inferences 97
Inferences regarding the make 98
General inferences 99
THE NON-DEALER’S PLAY OF A “NO-TRUMP” HAND 102
The original lead 103
The original lead at “No-Trump” 106
Opening a short suit against a “No-Trump” declaration 107
Unblocking 108
Returning partner’s lead 109
Holding up by the non-dealers 111
Examples of holding up 112
Taking out re-entry cards 115
THE DISCARD 116
The discard against a declared trump 117
The discard at “No-Trump” 118
Hints on discarding 121
The reverse discard 122
Discarding by the dealer 122
THE DEALER’S PLAY 124
Combining the hands of dealer and dummy 125
Ace, Queen, Jack Combination 125
Ace, king, jack combination 127
Ace, jack, ten combination 129
King, jack, ten combination 129
Miscellaneous combinations 130
Arranging the lead 131
Finessing 132
The finesse obligatory 134
Watching the discards in order to locate finesses 135
Second hand plays 136
MANAGEMENT OF TRUMPS BY THE DEALER 139
When to lead trumps 139
When not to lead trumps 141
Unblocking the trump suit 142
Not forcing your strong trump hand 142
Leading trumps to prevent a ruff 143
When to draw the remaining trumps 144
Discontinuing the lead of trumps 144
When to trump 146
Overtrumping 147
Re-entry cards 148
Forcing discards 148
Throwing the lead 150
THE DEALER’S PLAY OF A “NO-TRUMP” DECLARATION 151
Choice of suits 152
Keeping the commanding card of the adversaries’ suit 154
Re-entry cards 158
Unblocking 162
Overtaking 164
“Ducking” 167
“Overtaking and unblocking” 171
“Overtaking and ducking” 172
The defence against overtaking and “ducking” 173
CARD STRATEGY 175
LOST TRICKS 183
“YOUR PARTNER.” HIS IDIOSYNCRASIES, AND SOME OF YOURS 190
ILLUSTRATIVE HANDS 195
END PLAYS 277
Refusing to draw the losing trump 279
Leading the losing trump 280
Throwing the lead 281
Leading a singleton 282
Saving a low trump to lead 283
Refusing to over trump 284
The extra trump 285
Unblocking 286
Making a tenace 287
GLOSSARY 289
INDEX 293
INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIVE HANDS
NO. PAGE
1. Saving an entry card. Leading the losing trump 197
2. Not showing adversaries that the weak hand can “ruff” 199
3. Leading the losing trump 201
4. Arranging the lead 203
5. Not leading trumps until losing cards have been discarded 205
6. Leading through 207
7. Refusing to accept a force 209
8. Not taking a finesse which, if unsuccessful, would
block the trump suit 211
9. Saving an entry card. Overtaking 213
10. Double entry 215
11. Making an entry card 217
12. A card of re-entry 219
13. Double entry 221
14. Overtaking to make an entry card 223
15. Not holding up an ace. Unblocking 225
16. Holding up a king 227
17. Overtaking, losing a trick, in order to make a suit 229
18. Not taking a finesse 231
19. Forcing discards to locate a finesse 233
20. Deschapelles coup. Finesse obligatory 235
21. Not allowing adversary to lead through a once guarded king 237
22. Not allowing an established suit to make 239
23. “Ducking” 241
24. Leading through dummy’s strength 243
25. Preventing a ruff by the weak trump hand 245
26. Preventing a ruff by the weak trump hand 247
27. Not forcing 249
28. Inference 251
29. Inference 253
30. Inference 255
31. Leading through 257
32. Overtaking by the adversary 259
33. Refusing to play the high card of a long suit 261
34. Arranging the lead 263
35. Not unblocking. Deschapelles coup 265
36. Abandoning a suit 267
37. Discarding commanding cards 269
38. Counting 271
39. Allowing the weaker hand to “ruff” 273
40. Not holding up an ace 275
ADVANCED BRIDGE
THE LAWS OF BRIDGE
REVISED 1905
THE RUBBER
1. The partners first winning two games win the rubber. If the first
two games be won by the same partners, the third game is not played.
SCORING
2. A game consists of thirty points obtained by tricks alone,
exclusive of any points counted for honours, chicane or slam.
3. Every hand is played out, and any points in excess of thirty
points necessary for the game are counted.
4. Each trick above six counts two points when spades are trumps,
four points when clubs are trumps, six points when diamonds are
trumps, eight points when hearts are trumps, and twelve points when
there are no trumps.
5. Honours are ace, king, queen, knave and ten
of the trump suit; or the aces when no trump is
declared.
6. Honours are credited to the original holders and are valued as
follows:
+---------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
| | | | | | NO |
| DECLARATION. | ♠ | ♣ | ♦ | ♥ |TRUMPS|
+---------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
| Each Trick above Six | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 12 |
| { 3 Honours | 4 | 8 | 12 | 16 | 30 |
| { 4 " | 8 | 16 | 24 | 32 | 40 |
| { 4 " (All in one hand) | 16 | 32 | 48 | 64 | 100 |
|HONOURS{ 5 " | 10 | 20 | 30 | 40 | -- |
| { 5 " (4 in one hand) | 18 | 36 | 54 | 72 | -- |
| { 5 " (All in one hand) | 20 | 40 | 60 | 80 | -- |
| { Chicane | 4 | 8 | 12 | 16 | -- |
+---------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+
| Rubber 100, Grand Slam 40, Little Slam 20. |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
7. If a player and his partner make thirteen tricks, independently of
any tricks gained by the revoke penalty, they score Grand Slam and
add forty points to their honour count.
8. Little slam is twelve tricks similarly scored, and adds twenty
points to the honour count.
9. Chicane (one hand void of trumps) is equal in value to three
honours, _i.e._ if partner of player having chicane scores honours
he adds the value of three honours to his honour score, while, if
the adversaries score honours, it deducts an equal value from their
honour score. Double Chicane (a player and his partner both void of
trumps) is equal in value to four honours, and the value thereof may
be deducted from the total honour score of the adversaries.
10. The value of honours, slam, little slam, or chicane, is in nowise
affected by doubling or redoubling.
11. At the conclusion of a rubber the scores for tricks, honours,
Chicane, and Slam, obtained by each side are added, and one hundred
points are added to the score of the winners of the rubber. The
difference between the completed scores is the number of points won
or lost by the winners of the rubber.
12. If an erroneous score affecting tricks be proven, such mistake
must be corrected prior to the conclusion of the game in which it has
occurred, and such game shall not be considered as concluded until
the following deal has been completed and the trump declared, unless
it be that the game is the last one of the rubber,--then the score is
subject to inquiry until an agreement between the sides (as to the
value of the rubber) shall have been reached.
13. If an erroneous score affecting honours, chicane or slam be
proven, such mistake may be corrected at any time before the score of
the rubber has been made up and agreed upon.
CUTTING
14. The ace is the lowest card.
15. In all cases every player must cut from the same pack.
16. Should a player expose more than one card, he must cut again.
FORMING TABLES
17. The prior right of playing is with those first in the room.
If there are more than four candidates for seats at a table, the
privilege of playing is decided by cutting. The four who cut the
lowest cards play first.
18. After the table is formed, the players cut to decide on partners;
the two lowest play against the two highest. The lowest is the
dealer, who has choice of cards and seats, and who, having once made
his selection, must abide by it.
19. Should the two players who cut lowest, secure cards of equal
value, they shall re-cut to determine which of the two shall deal,
and the lower on the re-cut deals.
20. Should three players cut cards of equal value, they cut again;
if the fourth card be the highest, the two lowest of the new cut are
partners and the lower of the two the dealer; if, however, the fourth
card be the lowest, the two highest on the re-cut are partners and
the original lowest the dealer.
21. Six players constitute a full table, and no player shall have a
right to cut into a game which is complete.
22. When there are more than six candidates, the
right to succeed any player who may retire is acquired
by announcing the desire to do so, and such
announcement shall constitute a prior right to the
first vacancy.
CUTTING OUT
23. If at the end of a rubber, should admission be claimed by one or
two candidates, the player or players having played a greater number
of consecutive rubbers shall withdraw; but when all have played the
same number, they must cut to decide upon the outgoers; the highest
are out.
RIGHTS OF ENTRY
24. A candidate desiring to enter a table must declare such wish
before any player at the table cuts a card, either for the purpose of
beginning a new rubber or of cutting out.
25. In the formation of new tables, those candidates who have neither
belonged to nor played at any other table have the prior right of
entry. Those who have already played decide their right of admission
by cutting.
26. A player who cuts into one table while belonging to another,
shall forfeit his prior right of re-entry into the latter, unless
by doing so he enables three candidates to form a fresh table. In
this event he may signify his intention of returning to his original
table, and his place at the new one can be filled.
27. Should any player quit the table during the progress of a rubber,
he may, with the consent of the other three players, appoint a
substitute during his absence; but such appointment shall become void
with the conclusion of the rubber, and shall not in any way affect
the substitute’s rights.
28. If anyone break up a table, the remaining players have a prior
right to play at other tables.
SHUFFLING
29. The pack must neither be shuffled below the table nor so the face
of any card be seen.
30. The dealer’s partner must collect the cards for the ensuing deal
and he has the first right to shuffle the cards. Each player has the
right to shuffle subsequently. The dealer has the right to shuffle
last, but should a card or cards be seen during his shuffling, or
whilst giving the pack to be cut, he must re-shuffle.
31. Each player, after shuffling, must place the cards properly
collected and face downward to the left of the player next to deal.
THE DEAL
32. Each player deals in his turn; the order of dealing goes to the
left.
33. The player on the dealer’s right cuts the pack, and in dividing
it he must not leave fewer than four cards in either packet; if in
cutting or in replacing one of the two packets a card be exposed, or
if there be any confusion of the cards or a doubt as to the exact
place in which the pack was divided, there must be a fresh cut.
34. When the player whose duty it is to cut has once separated the
pack he can neither re-shuffle nor re-cut the cards.
35. Should the dealer shuffle the cards, after the pack is cut, the
pack must be cut again.
36. The fifty-two cards shall be dealt face downward.
The deal is not completed until the last card
has been dealt face downward.
37. THERE IS NO MISDEAL.
A NEW DEAL
38. There must be a new deal--
_a_ If the cards be not dealt into four packets, one at
a time, and in regular rotation, beginning at the
dealer’s left.
_b_ If, during a deal, or during the play of a hand,
the pack be proven incorrect or imperfect.
_c_ If any card be faced in the pack.
_d_ If any player have dealt to him a greater number of
cards than thirteen.
_e_ If the dealer deal two cards at once and then deal
a third before correcting the error.
_f_ If the dealer omit to have the pack cut and the
adversaries call attention to the fact prior to the
conclusion of the deal and before looking at their
cards.
_g_ If the last card do not come in its regular order
to the dealer.
39. There may be a new deal--
_a_ If the dealer or his partner expose a card. The
eldest hand may claim a new deal.
_b_ If either adversary expose a card. The dealer
or his partner may claim a new deal.
_c_ If, before fifty-one cards are dealt, the
dealer should look at any card. His adversaries have the
right to see it, and the eldest hand may exact a new
deal.
_d_ If, in dealing, one of the last cards be
exposed by the dealer or his partner, and the deal is
completed before there is reasonable time for the eldest
hand to decide as to a new deal. But in all other cases
such penalties must be claimed prior to the completion
of the deal.
40. The claim for a new deal by reason of a card exposed during the
deal may not be made by a player who has looked at any of his cards.
If a new deal does not take place, the card exposed during the deal
cannot be called.
41. Should three players have their right number of cards, and should
the fourth, not being dummy, have less than thirteen and not discover
such deficiency until he has played any of his cards, the deal stands
good; should he have played, he is answerable for any revoke he may
have made as if the missing card or cards had been in his hand. The
other pack may be searched for the missing card or cards.
42. If during the play of a deal a pack be proven incorrect or
imperfect, such proof renders only the current deal void, and does
not affect any prior score. The dealer must deal again (Law 38 _b_).
43. Any one dealing with the adversaries’ cards must be corrected
before the play of the first card, otherwise the deal stands good. If
any one deals when it is the turn of an adversary, such error must be
corrected before the cards are dealt for the following deal.
44. A player can neither shuffle, cut nor deal for his partner
without the permission of his adversaries.
DECLARING TRUMPS
45. The trump is declared. No card is turned.
_a_ The dealer may either make the trump or pass the
declaration to his partner.
_b_ If the declaration be passed to partner, he must
make the trump.
46. Should the dealer’s partner make the trump without receiving
permission from the dealer, the eldest hand may demand,
1st. That the trump shall stand, or
2d. That there shall be a new deal.
But if any declaration as to doubling, or not doubling, shall have
been made, or if a new deal be not claimed, the declaration wrongly
made shall stand. The eldest hand is the player on the left of the
dealer.
47. Should the dealer’s partner pass the declaration to the dealer
it shall be the right of the eldest hand to claim a new deal or to
compel the offending player to declare the trump; provided, that no
declaration as to doubling has been made.
48. If either of the dealer’s adversaries make or pass the
declaration, the dealer may, after looking at his hand, either claim
a new deal or proceed as if no declaration had been made.
49. A declaration once made cannot be altered.
DOUBLING, REDOUBLING, ETC.
50. The effect of doubling, re-doubling, and so on, is that the value
of each trick above six is doubled, quadrupled, and so on.
51. After the trump declaration has been made by the dealer or his
partner, their adversaries have the right to double. The eldest hand
has the first right. If he does not wish to double, he may ask his
partner, “May I lead?” His partner shall answer, “Yes” or “I double.”
52. If either of their adversaries elect to double, the dealer and
his partner have the right to redouble. The player who has declared
the trump shall have the first right. He may say, “I redouble” or
“Satisfied.” Should he say the latter, his partner may redouble.
53. If the dealer or his partner elect to redouble, their
adversaries shall have the right to again double. The original
doubler has the first right.
54. If the right-hand adversary of the dealer double before his
partner has asked “May I lead?” the declarer of the trump shall have
the right to say whether or not the double shall stand. If he decide
that the double shall stand, the process of re-doubling may continue
as described in paragraphs 52, 53, 55.
55. The process of re-doubling may be continued indefinitely.[1] The
first right to continue the re-doubling on behalf of a partnership
belongs to that player who has last redoubled. Should he, however,
express himself satisfied, the right to continue the re-doubling
passes to his partner. Should any player redouble out of turn,
the adversary who last doubled shall decide whether or not such
double shall stand. If it is decided that the redouble shall stand,
the process of re-doubling may continue as described in this and
foregoing laws (52 and 53). If any double or redouble out of turn
be not accepted there shall be no further doubling in that hand.
Any consultation between partners as to doubling or re-doubling
will entitle the maker of the trump or the eldest hand, without
consultation, to a new deal.
[1] In some clubs, doubling ceases whenever the value of the odd
trick exceeds one hundred points; in other clubs the limit is placed
at two hundred points.
56. If the eldest hand lead before the doubling be completed, his
partner may redouble only with the consent of the adversary who last
doubled; but such lead shall not affect the right of either adversary
to double.
57. When the question, “May I lead?” has been answered in the
affirmative or when the player who has the last right to continue the
doubling, expresses himself satisfied, the play shall begin.
58. Should the eldest hand lead without asking permission, his
partner may double, but only if the maker of the trump consent.
59. Should the right-hand adversary of the dealer ask permission to
lead, the eldest hand does not thereby lose his right to double.
Should the right-hand adversary of the dealer double before his
partner has asked “May I lead?” the maker of the trump shall have the
right to say whether or not the double shall stand. If he decide that
the double shall stand, the process of re-doubling may continue as
described in Laws 52, 53, 55.
60. If the right-hand adversary of the dealer lead out of turn, the
maker of the trump may call a suit from the eldest hand, who may only
double if the maker of the trump consent.
A declaration as to doubling or re-doubling once made cannot
be altered.
DUMMY
61. As soon as the eldest hand has led, the dealer’s partner shall
place his cards face upward on the table, and the duty of playing the
cards from that hand shall devolve upon the dealer, unassisted by his
partner.
62. Before exposing his cards, the dealer’s partner has all the
rights of a player, but after his cards have been shown the dealer’s
partner takes no part whatever in the play, except that he has the
right--
_a_ To ask the dealer whether he has none of the suit
in which he may have renounced.
_b_ To ask the dealer when called upon to play his
highest or lowest card whether he has conformed to
the penalty.
_c_ To call the dealer’s attention to the fact that a
trick has not been completed.
_d_ To correct the claim of either adversary to a
penalty to which the latter is not entitled.
_e_ To call attention to the fact that a trick has been
erroneously taken by either side.
_f_ To participate in the discussion of any disputed
question of fact which may arise between the dealer
and either adversary.
_g_ To correct an erroneous score.
63. Should the dealer’s partner call attention to any other incident
of the play, in consequence of which any penalty might be exacted,
the fact of his so doing precludes the dealer exacting such penalty.
64. If the dealer’s partner, by touching a card or otherwise, suggest
the play of a card from dummy, either of the adversaries may, but
without consultation, call upon the dealer to play or not to play the
card suggested.
65. Dummy is not liable to the penalty for a revoke; and if he should
revoke and the error be not discovered until the trick is turned and
quitted, the trick stands good.
66. A card from the dealer’s hand is not played until actually
quitted; but should the dealer name or touch a card from the dummy
hand, such card is considered as played, unless the dealer in
touching the card or cards says, “I arrange,” or words to that effect.
CARDS EXPOSED BEFORE PLAY
67. If, after the deal has been completed and before the trump
declaration has been made, either the dealer or his partner expose a
card from his hand, the eldest hand may, without consulting with his
partner, claim a new deal.
68. If, after the deal has been completed and before a card is led,
any player shall expose a card, his partner shall forfeit any right
to double or redouble which he otherwise would have been entitled
to exercise; and in case of a card being so exposed by the leader’s
partner, the dealer may either call the card or require the leader
not to lead the suit of the exposed card.
CARDS EXPOSED DURING PLAY
69. All cards exposed by the dealer’s adversaries are liable to be
called, and such cards must be left face upward on the table.
70. The following are exposed cards:
1st. Two or more cards played at once.
2d. Any card dropped with its face upward, or in any
way exposed on or above the table, even though
snatched up so quickly that no one can name it.
3d. Every card so held by a player that his partner can
see any portion of its face.
71. A card dropped on the floor or elsewhere below the table is not
an exposed card.
72. If two or more cards be played at once, by either of the dealer’s
adversaries, the dealer shall have the right to call which one he
pleases to the current trick, and the other card or cards shall
remain face upward on the table and may be called at any time.
73. If, without waiting for his partner to play, either of the
dealer’s adversaries should play on the table the best card or lead
one which is a winning card, as against the dealer and dummy, or
should continue (without waiting for his partner to play) to lead
several such cards, the dealer may demand that the partner of the
player in fault, win, if he can, the first, or any other of these
tricks, and the other cards thus improperly played are exposed cards.
74. If either or both of the dealer’s adversaries throw his or their
cards on the table face upward, such cards are exposed and are liable
to be called; but if either adversary retain his hand he cannot be
forced to abandon it. If, however, the dealer should say, “I have
the rest,” or any other words indicating that the remaining tricks
are his, the adversaries of the dealer are not liable to have any of
their cards called should they expose them, believing the dealer’s
claim to be true, should it subsequently prove false.
75. If a player who has rendered himself liable to have the highest
or lowest of a suit called (Laws 82, 91, 92 and 100), fail to play
as directed, or if, when called on to lead one suit, lead another,
having in his hand one or more cards of the suit demanded (Law 76),
or if called upon to win or lose a trick, fail to do so when he can
(Laws 73, 82 and 100), he is liable to the penalty for revoke, unless
such play be corrected before the trick is turned and quitted.
LEADS OUT OF TURN
76. If either of the dealer’s adversaries lead out of turn, the
dealer may call the card erroneously led, or may call a suit when it
is the turn of either adversary to lead.
77. If the dealer lead out of turn, either from his own hand or
dummy, he incurs no penalty; but he may not rectify the error after
the second hand has played.
78. If any player lead out of turn and the other three follow him,
the trick is complete and the error cannot be rectified; but if only
the second, or second and third play to the false lead, their cards
may be taken back; there is no penalty against anyone except the
original offender, who, if he be one of the dealer’s adversaries, may
be penalised as provided in Laws 60 and 76.
79. In no case can a player be compelled to play a card which would
oblige him to revoke.
80. The call of an exposed card may be repeated at every trick until
such card has been played.
81. If a player called on to lead a suit have none of it, the penalty
is paid.
CARDS PLAYED IN ERROR
82. Should the third hand not have played and the fourth play before
his partner, the latter (not being dummy or dealer) may be called
upon to play his highest or lowest card of the suit played, or to win
or lose the trick.
83. If anyone, not being dummy, omit playing to a former trick and
such error be not corrected until he has played to the next, the
adversaries may claim a new deal; should they decide that the deal
stands good, the surplus card at the end of the hand is considered to
have been played to the imperfect trick, but does not constitute a
revoke therein.
84. If anyone (except dummy) play two cards to the same trick, or
mix a card with a trick to which it does not belong, and the mistake
be not discovered until the hand is played out, he is answerable for
any consequent revokes he may have made. If during the play of the
hand the error be detected, the tricks may be counted face downward,
in order to ascertain whether there be among them a card too many;
should this be the case, the trick which contains a surplus card may
be examined and the card restored to its original holder, who (not
being dummy) shall be liable for any revoke he may meanwhile have
made.
THE REVOKE
85. A revoke occurs when a player (other than dummy), holding one or
more cards of the suit led, plays a card of a different suit. The
penalty for a revoke takes precedence of all other counts.
86. A revoke is established if the trick in which it occurs be turned
and quitted, _i.e._ the hand removed from the trick after it has
been gathered and placed face downward on the table; or if either
the revoking player or his partner, whether in his right turn or
otherwise, have led or played to the following trick.
87. The penalty for a revoke is three tricks taken from the revoking
player and added to those of the adversaries.
88. The penalty is applicable only to the score of the game in which
it occurs.
89. Under no circumstances can the revoking side score game, in that
hand. Whatever their previous score may have been, the side revoking
cannot attain a higher score toward game than twenty-eight.
90. A player may ask his partner, whether he has not a card of the
suit which he has renounced; should the question be asked before the
trick is turned and quitted, subsequent turning and quitting does
not establish a revoke, and the error may be corrected unless the
question be answered in the negative or unless the revoking player or
his partner has led or played to the following trick.
91. If a player correct his mistake in time to save a revoke, any
player or players who have followed him may withdraw their cards
and substitute others, and the cards so withdrawn are not exposed
cards. If the player in fault be one of the dealer’s adversaries,
the card played in error is an exposed card, and the dealer can
call it whenever he pleases; or he may require the offender to play
his highest or lowest card of the suit to the trick in which he has
renounced.
92. If the player in fault be the dealer, the eldest hand may require
him to play the highest or lowest card of the suit in which he has
renounced, provided both adversaries of the dealer have played to the
current trick; but this penalty cannot be exacted against the dealer
when he is fourth in hand, nor can it be enforced at all from dummy.
93. At the end of a hand the claimants of a revoke may search all
the tricks. If the cards have been mixed the claim may be urged and
proved if possible; but no proof is necessary, and the revoke is
established if, after it has been claimed, the accused player or his
partner mix the cards before they have been sufficiently examined by
the adversaries.
94. A revoke must be claimed before the cards have been cut for the
following deal.
95. Should the players on both sides subject themselves to the revoke
penalty neither can win the game by that hand.
96. The revoke penalty may be claimed for as many revokes as occur
during a hand; but the accumulated penalty shall in no event exceed
thirteen tricks. (See Law 7.)
GENERAL RULES
97. There should not be any consultation between partners as to the
enforcement of penalties. If they do so consult, the penalty is paid.
98. Once a trick is complete, turned and quitted it must not be
looked at (except under Law 84), until the end of the hand.
99. Any player during the play of a trick or after the four cards are
played and before they are touched for the purpose of gathering them
together, may demand that the cards be placed before their respective
players.
100. If either of the dealer’s adversaries, prior to his partner’s
playing, should call attention to the trick, either by saying it is
his, or, without being requested so to do, by naming his card or
drawing it toward him, the dealer may require that opponent’s partner
to play his highest or lowest card of the suit led, or to win or lose
the trick.
101. Either of the dealer’s adversaries may call his partner’s
attention to the fact that he is about to lead out of turn, but if
he make any unauthorised reference to any incident of the play the
dealer may call a suit from the adversary whose turn it is next to
lead.
102. In all cases where a penalty has been incurred, the offender is
bound to give reasonable time for the decision of his adversaries;
but if a wrong penalty be demanded none can be enforced.
103. The partner of the eldest hand may inform him that their
adversaries have incurred a penalty, but may not give any further
information. Should he suggest the penalty, or demand the enforcement
of it, such action shall be deemed a consultation, and no penalty can
be enforced.
NEW CARDS
104. Unless a pack be imperfect, no player shall have the right to
call for one new pack. If fresh cards are demanded, two packs must
be furnished and paid for by the player who has demanded them. If
they are furnished during a rubber, the adversaries shall have their
choice of new cards. If it is the beginning of a new rubber, the
dealer, whether he or one of his adversaries be the party calling for
the new cards, shall have the choice. New cards must be called for
before the pack is cut for a new deal.
105. A card or cards torn or marked must be replaced by agreement or
new cards furnished.
BYSTANDERS
106. While a bystander, by agreement among the players, may decide
any question, yet he must on no account say anything unless appealed
to; and if he make any remark which calls attention to an oversight
affecting the score, or to the exaction of a penalty, he is liable to
be called on by the players to pay the stakes on that rubber.
SPADE CONVENTION
I.--Where players agree “not to play spades” the rule
is, that if the spade make is not doubled, the hand
shall be played where either side is 20 or over.
II.--If the third hand player ask, “Shall I play?” or
should he lead out of turn, or should the eldest
hand lead without asking permission to play, the
spade maker may take two on the score or may call
a lead and require the hand to be played out.
III.--Should the third hand player double before his
partner asks permission to play, the spade maker
may decide whether the double shall stand or not;
but the hand must be played out.
ETIQUETTE
It has been truthfully said that there is no game in which slight
intimations can convey so much information as that of Bridge. In
justice to those who, by their manner, give information, it may be
stated that most of the apparent unfairness at the Bridge table is
unintentional. Hesitation and mannerisms, however, cannot be too
carefully avoided; such a breach of etiquette is an offence for which
the adversaries have no redress except perhaps a refusal to continue
the play.
It is obviously a greater fault to take advantage of information
thus given. A play in your judgment may be perfectly sound, but you
leave yourself open to criticism if it is in any way contingent on
information obtained from your partner’s manner.
Cultivate uniformity in your style of play; let there be no
remarkable haste or hesitation in making or passing; try always to
use the same formula of words, and do not call attention to the score
after the cards have been dealt.
Remember that any undue hesitancy in regard to doubling will deprive
a fair-minded partner of the privilege of so doing. Such delays are
too frequent at spade declarations.
Emphasise no play of your own and show no pleasure or displeasure at
any other play.
Do not ask to have the cards placed unless it is solely for your own
information.
It is an offence either to revoke purposely or to make a second
revoke in order to conceal the first.
The dealer’s partner should not call attention to the score nor to
any card or cards that he or the other players hold, and neither
should he leave his seat for the purpose of watching his partner’s
play.
When there is an unusual distribution of the cards, no remarks of any
kind should be allowed.
After a hand has been played, it may be discussed to the common
benefit; but the bore who is continually blowing up his partner to
show his superior knowledge, together with the player who interrupts
the game to discuss the play, should be ostracised from the
card-room. Superiority of skill is shown by the play of the cards,
not by mannerisms.
It is often difficult to refrain from showing pleasure at the
accomplishment of a desired purpose, but undue elation is most
aggravating to the adversaries.
Do not make a dig at the adversaries by confiding to your partner
that your success was due to an ill-judged play of the opponent.
It is not good form to complain of poor cards, as you imply that the
adversaries profit by your weak hands and not by their skill.
The better players rarely criticise unless asked to do so; it is
usually the inexperienced player who offers an astonishing amount of
gratuitous and unsought-for advice.
Do not tell your partner, after seeing all the cards, what he should
have done, but think what you would have done in your partner’s
place. Do not criticise at all, but if you must, criticise fairly.
BRIDGE FOR THREE PLAYERS
When the game is played by three persons, the cards are cut to decide
which shall have the dummy; the one cutting the lowest card has the
deal and a permanent dummy during the game or the rubber, as the case
may be. It is then customary for each player to have dummy in turn,
during one game or rubber.
In playing rubbers, 100 points are added to the score of the winning
side.
In playing games, 50 points are added to the score of the winning
side.
If the make is passed to dummy, four aces or three aces constitute a
compulsory “no-trump” declaration; otherwise, dummy must declare the
longest suit.
When there are two suits of equal length, dummy must select the suit,
which counts most by spots, the ace counting eleven and the other
honours ten each. If the suits are still equal, dummy declares the
one having the higher trick valuation.
Only one adversary, the leader, can double.
If the dealer has seen the two hands, he is not allowed to redouble.
The dummy hand is not exposed until the doubling has been settled and
a card led.
When the dummy is the leader, his partner must look at the dummy hand
and lead from it before seeing his own cards; and dummy alone has the
right to double.
There are various methods of playing Dummy Bridge. An approved
feature is to allow either adversary to double the dealer’s make and
to eliminate doubling on a forced make.
THE SCORE
Practise soon shows a player the relative importance of playing for
the greatest possible number of points and tricks, and of playing
to win or to save the game. No matter how cleverly the cards are
managed, the player who underestimates the attention the state of the
score demands, will unnecessarily lose many a rubber. The declaration
largely depends upon the score, and much of the play is influenced by
the number of tricks required to win or to save the game.
Most Bridge players take means to ascertain the score before
announcing a declaration; it is only an occasional game that is lost
by a hasty declaration regardless of the state of the score; but in
the play of the hand, the score is frequently entirely overlooked.
Interested in his scheme of play, the dealer will try for too much or
too little, and quite lose sight of what should be his first goal--to
win or to save the game.
DECLARING TO THE SCORE
With a game to the good, the advantage conferred by the position is
too great to risk by a rash make. When you are a game ahead, make
none but a conservative and sound declaration. When you are a game
behind, the score justifies a bold make.
On the rubber game, particularly if the adversaries are over twenty,
the dealer may attempt a forward declaration, but his partner should
not be too reckless, realising that the dealer knew the situation and
did not consider his hand worth a venture.
At twenty-four or more on the score, with a strong black suit the
make should not be passed; average assistance in your partner’s hand
will probably enable you to win the game; and with weak red suits,
a passed red declaration may be doubled and the game won by the
adversaries.
When the score is twenty-four to nothing against you either on the
first game or when you are a game to the good, avoid a doubtful
declaration which may enable the adversaries to win the game on your
deal. There is a vast difference whether the adversaries start their
deal wanting a few points or whether they have the first deal on a
new game.
When the score is twenty-four all on the rubber game, the dealer
may pass a fairly strong hand trusting he can win the game with any
declaration; and at this score dummy should not hesitate to declare
his best suit. It is highly probable that the adversaries would win
out on the next deal.
PLAYING TO THE SCORE
Correct dealer’s play is closely influenced by the state of the
score. The game is an important goal which should never be hazarded
for the sake of an extra trick; but, if this goal is not assured,
the loss of a few extra points in an effort to reach it, demands but
small consideration.
When there is the slightest chance that the adversaries may win the
game on your deal, hasten to secure the tricks needful to insure its
safety. Many times the game can only be won or saved in case the
cards lie in a certain position, and the dealer must assume that the
cards are favourably placed and play the hand accordingly.
When the game is saved, but with no possibility of winning it, the
seventh trick should be the objective point in the dealer’s play.
When you cannot reach game, never hazard the odd trick in an attempt
to win two tricks. In a no-trump declaration, the risk would be
twenty-four points for a possible gain of twelve points; and if you
lose the odd trick, it may enable the adversaries to win the game on
their deal.
THE NON-DEALER’S PLAY TO THE SCORE
The probabilities are not in favour of winning against declared
strength. The score will indicate the number of tricks needful to
save the game, and the adversaries should take no chances until this
important object is attained. Until the game is saved, make no effort
to gain extra tricks. Many a rubber which the prompt lead of a high
card might have saved is lost by trying for too much.
If you find that the continuation of a certain line of play will lose
the rubber, abandon your scheme and take the one chance of finding in
your partner’s hand the cards that will save the game. The loss of
an extra trick is of slight importance compared with the loss of the
game.
THE DECLARATION
The advantage of the deal is enormous, and it is important to
utilise it properly to make the largest possible score with the
least possible risk. The make shows the great increase in percentage
of the good player over the poor one. More rubbers are lost by bad
makes than by bad play. The cautious man who passes “no-trumpers”
will lose many games by his extreme carefulness. The reckless man
loses even more by declaring “no-trump” when his partner must have
a “no-trumper” to pull him through. As the element of luck has a
potent influence on the result of a make, a sound declaration based
on the merits of the hand may be unsuccessful. No one can select
the winning trump every time, and an occasional loss must be borne
with equanimity for the sake of the many successes; the make that
will win with average strength in the dummy hand will pay in the
long run. Do not hope for too much, or expect too little assistance
from your partner; give him credit for no more and no less than the
average hand. If you question yourself--what will my partner probably
make it if I pass?--you will find it a great help in determining the
declaration. He will usually make it your weak suit, and it follows
that you may depend on him for protection in that suit.
A sound make may necessitate the sacrifice of the possibility of a
large score for the sake of positively winning the game. The chance
for the game takes precedence of all other considerations.
As Bridge is played for points, a fair amount of regard is also due
the honour score. A declaration that is apt to give honours to the
adversaries is a costly method of winning the game.
It is difficult for the beginner to understand the reason for certain
formulated rules for the makes, but it will pay the average novice
to accept the judgment of those who have learned by, often bitter,
experience. Sound makes will win in the long run, and the rules
should not be scorned merely because in a few hands the cards were
badly placed.
“NO-TRUMP” DECLARATION BY THE DEALER
While a good red declaration is always preferable to a doubtful
“no-trumper,” yet when a bold dash for the game must be made, a
forward “no-trump” declaration is the safest risk; and experience
certainly shows that what is called a doubtful “no-trumper” will
succeed more often than it fails. Such a declaration has a great
advantage over a light red make. There is a wider range for
assistance in the dummy hand. The make does not disclose the dealer’s
principal strength. It offers the adversaries a larger scope for
errors, and an error is more costly in a “no-trump” hand. The
opponents have no means of knowing their combined strength, and for
this reason their best suit may never be made; while the dealer
knows the suit to establish and can arrange the lead to bring it in.
In short, the dealer can utilise his strength and the adversaries’
drawbacks to the best advantage in a “no-trump” hand. As a logical
consequence, a strong player may take more chances in the make.
Your goal is the game, and at a love score, this can be reached with
fewest tricks at a “no-trump” declaration. Therefore, lacking a good
red hand, a “no-trump” declaration that with average strength in your
partner’s hand will secure the odd trick, will more often win than
lose.
What constitutes an average hand, and how much help should you expect
from your partner, are frequent inquiries. As the trick-taking value
of a hand may depend entirely on the distribution of the remaining
cards, these questions are difficult to answer. An average hand,
however, contains the equivalent of one ace, one king, one queen, etc.
An established suit that can be made before the adversaries obtain
the lead the second time is always a great advantage.
A “no-trump” make that is not protected in three suits is dangerous,
but, even if you are entirely void of a suit with real strength in
the other three, you can reasonably expect your partner to supply
protection in the missing suit. Aces are an important help in
establishing your suits, and are much greater strength than kings
or queens, which may be led through and captured. A no-trump make
without an ace is liable to score honours for the adversaries--in
rare cases 100 points--and is almost never sound.
RULES FOR “NO-TRUMP” DECLARATION BY THE DEALER
There should be a certain set standard for a “no-trump” make, but at
times it is difficult to draw the line that divides the hands that
should be passed from those that warrant a “no-trump” declaration.
It is obvious that a good player will make more with a hand than a
poor one; consequently a greater risk may be taken by players who
thoroughly understand the finesse and strategy of the game. The make
which would prove successful if played correctly, if badly played
might be disastrous. Then again your adversaries must be regarded; if
pitted against weak players, you are more apt to pull a “no-trumper”
through than when matched against opponents who will take advantage
of any failing in your hand or play.
{ 4 Aces.
Declare { 3 Aces.
“No-trumps” { 2 Aces and one other guarded suit.
holding { 1 Ace and three other guarded suits.
{ 1 long established black suit (A K Q x x x)
and one other Ace.
“NO-TRUMP” WITH THREE ACES
Unless you hold a strong heart hand, or, unless the game can be won
with a trump declaration, three aces should usually be considered
an obligatory “no-trumper.” No doubt a three-ace hand containing
no other honour, is a weak one with which to make the strongest
declaration; but experience demonstrates that if your partner
holds an average hand or any one long suit, loss seldom occurs.
When the make does lose, the points secured above the line usually
compensate for the loss sustained in trick points, and if the rule is
consistently followed, the total gain will be many times greater than
the aggregate loss.
“NO-TRUMP” WITH TWO ACES AND ONE OTHER GUARDED SUIT
At a love score, if the ace suits contain additional
honours, “no-trumps” should always be declared
with two aces and a guarded honour in another suit.
This is particularly true if the aces are red; if you
hold the two red aces, it is doubtful if your partner
could declare any other than a black make. A long
suit, particularly one that can be easily established,
is additional strength; and jacks, tens and nines are
an important assistance to a two-ace “no-trump”
declaration.
If all the remaining cards in the ace suits are small, and if the
protection in the third suit is doubtful, “no-trumps” can scarcely be
considered a safe declaration. A guarded honour or a protected suit
is supposed to imply a certain trick; but a king once guarded or a
queen twice guarded may be led through and captured.
Guarded suits are:
K Q J K 10 x Q J 10 Q x x
K Q x K x x Q J x J 10 x x
K J x K x Q 10 x J x x x
The value of these suits is greater or less according to the size of
the top honour, the number of cards in sequence, and the length of
the suit.
An ace suit may contain:
A K x A Q x A J x A 10 x A x x A
But the value of the ace suit diminishes according to the decreased
value of the next card. A single ace is of little use in blocking the
adversaries’ suit, and it may often block the long suit in dummy.
“NO-TRUMP” WITH TWO ACES
A “no-trump” declaration that is unguarded in two suits, is always
dangerous; while you can rely on your partner to protect one suit,
it is a bit sanguine to expect him to hold guards in two. However, a
hand containing a long established suit, headed by ace, king, queen,
and another ace, wins at “no-trump” many more times than it loses,
and the make must, therefore, be classed as sound. If you hold two
suits headed by ace king, and particularly if these suits are red,
a “no-trump” declaration is preferable to passing; but with less
strength, the make should not be attempted except at an adverse score.
“NO-TRUMP” WITH ONE ACE
With one ace and general protection in all the suits, “no-trump”
should be declared. Of course, the adversaries may secure the honour
score, and it is probable that such a hand will contain no long suit;
but any good suit in your partner’s hand will ensure the safety of
the make.
With one ace and but two other protected suits, “no-trumps” should
not be declared unless the guarded suits include at least two
honours. “No-trump” declarations with one ace and a single honour in
each of two other suits are often made to the score, but a venture of
this kind is dangerous and is more apt to lose than to win.
A six or seven card suit headed by ace, king, and queen, with a
guarded king in another suit, will usually succeed as a “no-trumper.”
“NO-TRUMP” WITHOUT AN ACE
A “no-trump” make without an ace is almost never sound. There are,
no doubt, extreme cases where, with a king and queen in each suit,
this make may be justifiable; but the honour score obtained by the
adversaries will usually far exceed the trick points secured by the
dealer.
EXAMPLES OF NO-TRUMP MAKES
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
| ♥ | ♦ | ♣ | ♠ |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
|A 8 5 3 |A 10 6 4 |7 2 |A 8 3 |
|A Q 6 |7 3 |A J 10 8 4 |A 6 2 |
|A 5 |A Q 10 8 |A J 10 6 |10 7 4 |
|8 3 |A Q 7 5 |A J 10 7 |K J 5 |
|K J 4 |8 6 |A J 7 4 |A 10 6 5 |
|8 6 |A Q 10 7 |A K 7 5 |Q 8 4 |
|A 10 8 6 |Q J 10 |A J 9 4 |7 3 |
|A 7 5 |K Q 8 |Q J 10 6 |K 8 6 |
|J 10 7 4 |A K Q |Q 8 5 |K Q 6 |
|A 10 4 |A K 3 |K Q J 9 4 |Q 7 |
|A |J 5 3 |9 3 2 |A K Q 9 7 5 |
|K |A J 7 4 |A K Q 8 5 |6 3 2 |
|K 7 |6 5 |7 2 |A K Q J 7 5 2|
|K Q 6 |K J 7 |A K 4 2 |6 3 2 |
|K J 9 7 |A Q 9 8 |K Q 6 4 |10 |
|K Q 9 8 |K J 3 |A Q 10 4 |10 6 |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
HEARTS
The advisability of a heart make is contingent on the length and
strength of the heart suit, as well as on the probable trick-taking
value of the hand. However, as the honour score must also be
regarded, hearts should be declared with four honours irrespective of
the strength of the other suits; the honour score will usually more
than compensate for any possible loss in trick points.
Declare hearts with but four cards, including three high honours,
provided you hold another long suit or two outside tricks; results
show conclusively that this make is sound.
Hearts should be declared with five hearts, including two honours and
at least one outside trick. Without this extra trick a five-heart
declaration with two honours--unless they are ace and king--is unsafe.
Hearts should be declared with six trumps, including one honour;
but, with fewer than six trumps, a one honour make is doubtful.
Occasionally it may not be advisable to pass five hearts with one
honour--holding, say, five hearts and four diamonds; your partner’s
make would probably be black.
In considering such a declaration, the value of a long side suit that
either is, or can be easily established, must not be overlooked. The
strength of a five-card trump hand with a long suit and a re-entry
card, is apparent to those who have had Whist experience. It requires
but one trump honour from your partner to make this a winning hand,
and unless the remaining cards are very unfortunately placed, it is
difficult to defeat the make.
With a good side suit, do not hesitate to declare hearts with five,
including an honour. Even a four-card side suit is usually a help. It
is when the hand is divided 5, 3, 3, 2, that you are apt to lose by
being forced to follow suit. Therefore a short suit is a help to a
five-trump hand; to be sure, it may at times enable the adversaries
to force you, but as you can always prevent the adversaries’ high
cards in that suit from making, a short suit is a greater benefit
than detriment.
RULES FOR THE HEART MAKE
Generally declare a red make holding six cards with one honour, five
cards with two honours, or four with three honours. Some makes may
be attempted with or without outside strength, while others require
a certain amount of strength in side suits. The value of a long suit
and the importance of inferring the probable passed make, has been
mentioned.
Below are given various combinations of honours showing the strength
required for a red make. Only general rules are cited and the
particular value of the hand must be left to the individual judgment.
In these examples, the score has not been considered.
FIVE HEARTS INCLUDING THREE HONOURS
A K Q }
A K J }
A K 10 }
A Q J } With or without other tricks.
K Q J }
A J 10 }
K Q 10 }
K J 10 } With one outside trick.
Q J 10 }
FIVE HEARTS INCLUDING TWO HONOURS
A K With or without an outside trick.
A Q }
K Q }
A J } With one outside trick.
K J }
A 10 }
K 10 }
Q 10 } With a four or five card plain suit, or two
J 10 } outside tricks.
FIVE HEARTS WITH ONE HONOUR
} With any good four or five card plain suit,
A } when partner will probably declare black,
K } or with two or three outside tricks.
Q }
J } With an established black suit, especially
10 } when void in one suit, or with two or three
} outside tricks.
FOUR HEARTS WITH THREE HONOURS
A K Q }
A K J } With any good suit, with an outside ace,
A K 10 } or with two or more outside tricks.
K Q J }
EXAMPLES OF HANDS THAT SHOULD NOT BE PASSED
A number of hands are given below to illustrate
the value of a long suit. If your partner holds an
average hand the long suit can usually be made.
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
| ♥ | ♦ | ♣ | ♠ |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
|J 10 8 6 4 |7 5 |A K 5 3 2 |8 |
|10 9 8 7 5 |None |K Q J 7 6 3 |K 7 |
|K J 8 6 4 |6 |8 3 |K 10 8 7 4 |
|A 9 7 6 4 |K 8 6 5 3 |4 2 |6 |
|J 9 8 7 4 |6 |A |K Q 10 8 7 6 |
|K 9 8 6 5 |4 |A Q J 6 3 |3 2 |
|Q 9 7 6 3 |None |K J 10 7 5 |A 10 4 |
|A 9 8 5 3 |K 7 |6 |K Q J 9 6 |
|10 9 8 6 5 |None |Q J 9 |A K Q 7 5 |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
HEARTS IN PREFERENCE TO “NO-TRUMP”
There are many players who delight in declaring “no-trumps,”
overlooking the fact that they may hold a suit declaration that would
be certain to win the game without the risk attending a “no-trump”
make.
Although one more trick is necessary at hearts, the chances are that
if the game can be won at “no-trump,” it will be won with equal
facility at hearts. The adversaries may hold an established suit or
may establish and make a suit at “no-trump” which it would be
impossible for them to bring in with a trump declaration. There is
no rule so universally followed among the better players as that of
declaring hearts in preference to “no-trump.”
HEARTS, NOT “NO-TRUMPS”
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
| ♥ | ♦ | ♣ | ♠ |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
|A Q J 9 5 |A 6 4 |A 7 5 |7 3 |
|K Q J 9 6 3 |A 7 5 3 |A |8 4 |
|A K Q 9 8 |A Q 7 |A K Q J |4 |
|A K Q 9 |A 8 4 |5 |J 10 8 6 3 |
|A K Q 9 |7 |Q 1O 5 |K J 8 5 3 |
|K Q J 9 7 |A |A 5 |K J 9 8 7 |
|A K Q 9 8 |K Q 7 |A Q 5 3 2 |None |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
DIAMONDS
As there are two declarations of greater value, it is often advisable
to pass a fair diamond make to your partner in the hope that he may
be able to make it a “no-trumps” or hearts. There is no declaration
more universally disliked than diamonds. It is frequently spoken
of as the “deadly” or “unlucky” diamond make. Players seem to be
continually making or not making it at the wrong time. Often an
original diamond declaration will find your partner with a game
hand at “no-trumps” or hearts; again, when the make is passed and
your partner declares spades, you make eternal vows never to pass a
diamond hand.
The diamond is essentially a score make, and should be attempted at
a score which admits of a reasonable chance to win the game. With a
love score it requires a very strong hand to win the game; eleven
of the thirteen tricks must be won. When the adversaries are 24 to
your nothing either on the first or on the rubber game, it is most
important that you win the game before it becomes the turn of the
adversary to deal. Winning three or four odd tricks will be of little
use, as in all probability the adversaries will make the number of
points requisite to go out on their own deal. At this score, it is
usually better to pass a fair diamond hand in the hope that your
partner can make a stronger declaration.
If at least 24 points are necessary to win the game and there is a
question between a diamond and a “no-trump” make, the preference
should be given to the “no-trump” declaration. Each trick at
“no-trump” is worth just twice as much as at diamonds, and if it is
possible to win four or five odd tricks with diamonds, you will have
no difficulty in making the fewer number required at “no-trump.”
In considering the advisability of a diamond make, infer from your
hand your partner’s probable declaration. If you hold no ace, there
is a fair chance that he will declare “no-trump.” If you hold but one
or two hearts, you are likely to get a heart declaration; an honour
included in these hearts would support the supposed make. If you hold
length in the heart suit, say five diamonds and four hearts, there
is small hope for a red declaration by your partner; at this time,
and when your hand contains cards that preclude the possibility of a
“no-trumper,” the make should not be passed.
Occasionally diamonds should be declared as a safety make, with a
hand that affords little help to a “no-trump” or a heart declaration.
Take the following hand:
♦ ♥ ♣ ♠
J 10 7 5 3 2 8 J 7 5 3 6 4
Should the hand be passed, partner will either declare hearts or
“no-trump.” Unless he holds great strength or the cards are very
fortunately placed, you must lose, and not only that, your partner’s
make is also very apt to be doubled. If your partner holds a strong
hand the diamond declaration may win the game; at any rate it will
sufficiently increase your score to facilitate winning on your next
deal. As a matter of fact, this hand was held and the make was
passed. The dummy held the following hand:
♦ ♥ ♣ ♠
K 6 A K 10 6 2 K 9 Q J 9 5
Hearts were declared, the adversary doubled, and the dealer lost
three by cards. While in this hand the remaining cards were
unfortunately placed for the dealer, still it shows that a strong
make may be defeated when you can lend it no support.
The general rules given for the heart makes may be applied to the
diamond declaration.
CLUBS
An original club should be made only when the score is 18 or more,
and the hand strong enough, with slight assistance, to win the game.
As there are three declarations of greater value than either clubs
or spades, unless there is a reasonable chance to win the game,
black makes should not be considered. Your partner may be able to
make a red or a “no-trump” declaration, and, failing these, his
defensive black declaration may suit your hand. There are unpleasant
occasions when you hold a strong club hand and your partner declares
spades. When the make has been doubled and you have little strength
to support it, you are very apt to regret that you did not make
an original club. While this may be true of an occasional hand,
don’t forget the many times your partner can give you a heart or a
“no-trump” make which will enable you to win the game.
If, however, you hold a black hand when you are a game to the good,
with 8 points or more on the second game, particularly if the hand
contains four club honours, it may not be advisable to pass the
declaration. The honour score together with the probable trick value
of the hand will win more points than the average hand is worth,
whereas you could not support your partner’s red declaration.
SPADES
Spades should never be declared offensively, unless to win the
game at a score of 24 or more points. With a very weak hand some
players advise a defensive spade make with the hope of preventing a
disastrous passed make. Statistics, no doubt, prove the correctness
of this theory, still but few of the better players attempt a
defensive spade declaration unless the score justifies their so
doing. If you are a game to the good and perhaps well along on the
second game, with a hand too poor to support an average “no-trump” or
red make, it might be wise not to risk the advantage already gained.
Should the adversaries win the game on your deal, it would give them
the first deal on the rubber game.
At a love score, however, no player should deprive his partner of
the privilege of declaring the trump to win. Many times a passed
“no-trump” or red make is strong enough with slight assistance to win
the game.
PASSED MAKES
The success of an original “no-trump” make is often due to the fact
that the adversaries do not discover the dealer’s weak suit; a passed
“no-trumper,” however, is exposed, and has the additional
disadvantage of the dealer’s acknowledged weakness. The dealer
shows by passing that he has not a strong hand; neither has he
much strength in the red suits; while this latter inference may be
doubtful, for the dealer often passes with fair strength in diamonds
and occasionally in both red suits, still the fact remains that a
passed “no-trump” make that is weak in the red suits, is extremely
risky.
It is remarkable how many passed “no-trumpers” go astray, and the
number proves the necessity for more cautious passed makes. The
dummy hand, in declaring the trump, should keep in mind the general
rules suggested for the dealer, and be governed in his choice by the
state of the score, by the general strength of his hand, and by the
dealer’s acknowledged weakness.
A speculative spirit is so strong in some players that they find
it difficult to resist announcing a make which they know to be
unsound, yet with which they hope, by a fortuitous combination of
circumstances, to win. Often the result of one hand, which proves
nothing, will encourage this tendency toward unsound makes.
Be very careful about declaring a red trump with but four cards. The
beginner’s distaste for spade makes, frequently leads to a light red
make which is doubled, and the game thrown away. As a general rule,
it is wrong to attempt a red trump unless the hand is worth at least
four tricks. With fewer than four tricks, make the declaration that
will lose the least. The score will often warrant a risky make, but
consider that your partner knew the score and did not deem his hand
worth a venture. Do not flatter your partner by a few kind remarks
and then place a hand on the table that is a disgrace to your
judgment.
When you are ahead on the game, avoid all weak heart and diamond
makes. If you must gamble, a “no-trump” make is a safer speculation.
With four or more clubs, including two honours and one or two
worthless spades, clubs will usually prove the more profitable
declaration. For defensive purposes a club is useful and is a safer
defence than an extremely weak spade, which the adversaries will
probably double.
Do not hesitate to make it spades when your hand is weak; and be
cautious at all times about making a declaration which will more
easily win the game for your adversaries than for you.
ABANDONING SPADE HANDS
A custom that is rapidly growing in favour is that of not playing an
undoubled spade make unless the dealer is 20 or more on the game. If
the hand is not to be played, the dealer scores two points for the
odd trick and the honours are credited to the side that holds them.
All Bridge players have objected at times to the tediousness of spade
hands, and this may be the cause of the increasing popularity of this
innovation in the more prominent clubs. When Bridge is played for a
stake, the result is reached in a much shorter time by throwing spade
hands, but there is no reason why other players should not find as
much interest in a spade hand as in a stronger declaration.
The rule of abandoning spade hands unless the dealer is 20 or more
is unsound. If this custom is to stand the test of time, it must be
equitable. It should read: “If either side is 20 or more the hand
should be played.” It is an obvious injustice to the adversaries not
to play a spade hand when the dealer is, say, 14 and the adversaries
28; for, if the opponents do not double, they have no chance to win
the game on that hand; while if they do double, a redouble might
follow, which would give the dealer an excellent chance to win the
game.
DOUBLING
With any kind of fair strength the novice at Bridge is invariably
anxious to double; but a few experiences with an adversary glad to
embrace the opportunity to redouble, will turn the course of his
anxiety to a desire to conceal such strength as he may hold.
Ordinarily be satisfied to win at all on the opponent’s make. By
doubling you not only place the strength and thus enable the dealer
to finesse successfully, but your double is a warning to the dealer
to be cautious in leading trumps, and therefore, lessens your chances
of winning tricks.
To increase safely the value of the tricks it is essential that you
consider the state of the score, the possibility of a redouble, and
your position in regard to the maker.
The score is a most important factor, and even, at times, justifies
a double with only a fair hand. For instance, suppose the odd trick
wins the game for your adversaries, and does not win it for you; if
you double and secure the odd trick, the additional count may enable
you to win the game on that deal or the next.
It is bad play to double when you need only an odd trick to win the
game. If you double you lessen your chance of winning the trick, and
by opening the way to a redouble perhaps give the adversaries the
game.
Doubling on the rubber game is dangerous. The increased value of the
tricks may enable your adversaries to win the rubber on that hand,
when, otherwise, you might go out on the next deal.
Your position in regard to the maker claims equal consideration. If
the trump has been made at your right, you play after the strong
hand, and are, therefore, in a good position to make your high trump
cards; but, if you double when this arrangement is reversed, and the
maker is over you, the dealer has this advantage.
As spades are made for safety, occasions for doubling the spade
declaration obviously arise more frequently than any other; yet
players are prone to go to extremes in doubling spade hands, for,
while it does not require much strength to double a defensive spade
declaration, there is always a possibility of great trump strength in
the adversaries’ hands.
Do not double the make of hearts, diamonds, or clubs without some
strength in the trump suit; as high cards, particularly if the
suits are long, may be trumped, strength in the side suits alone is
unreliable. Spades, however, may be doubled with but little strength
in the trump suit.
Be particularly conservative in doubling a “no-trump” make; for but
rarely does it pay to double with a hand containing general strength.
Remember that while you are in the dark as to your partner’s hand,
the dealer has the enormous advantage of seeing and combining his
own hand and the dummy; that he knows what suit to avoid, and what
suit to establish; and that your doubling will place him in a still
more advantageous position by enabling him to locate honours and make
successful finesses. Be cautious, also, when you hold fair strength
in three suits and are weak in the remaining one. The maker is apt to
hold a very long suit and you will not find it easy to discard, and
at the same time protect your hand.
Usually it is not safe to double a “no-trump” make unless you hold
a suit that you are reasonably sure is established. It is a gamble
to double with a six-card suit headed by ace, king, and queen with
no other trick in the hand. You depend on your partner to take one
trick, which he may not be able to do; and, should you find your long
suit protected in the adversaries’ hands, you run the risk of being
very badly beaten. If the odd trick wins the game for the adversaries
and does not win it for you, such a double may be justifiable; still
you cannot hope to win more than 24 points by doubling, and you risk
losing three or four odd tricks with a possibility of a redouble.
While such a double will often succeed it can hardly be classed as
sound.
As the younger hand, it may be wise to double a “no-trump” make in
order to prevent great loss or to save the game. In other words, it
may pay to show your partner by a double that you have strength in
a particular suit. There are at present two methods used by Bridge
players to indicate this strength, one known as the Heart Convention
and the other as the Weak Suit Convention.
REDOUBLING
Although the score may sometimes warrant a redouble without
extraordinary strength, a redouble practically avows the ability
to take six, and probably, seven tricks. In estimating your hand
consider the possibility of finding all the remaining trumps in one
hand, and do not value honours in the side suits too highly, for if
he holds great trump strength the maker is probably short in the
other suits. A redouble at “no-trump” indicates protection in every
suit.
The dealer should often redouble, not so much on the strength of his
hand, but to the score; knowing that should the adversaries win the
odd trick the game is lost, and that his redouble will equalise the
situation and make it possible for the odd trick to win the game for
either side.
ESTIMATING THE VALUE OF A HAND
In considering your probable tricks those in the trump suit are of
course most certain.
On the right side of the maker three trumps with a single honour,
ace, king, or queen, may be estimated as being worth but one trick.
Do not count on ruffing with a single trump.
Should you hold three trumps with two honours, headed by the ace
king, the king queen, or even the king jack, you are reasonably sure
of two tricks in the trump suit--as can also be said of four trumps
with two high honours. Indeed in the last combination, with the third
best card an eight or better, there are probably three trump tricks.
With four trumps including three, or five trumps including two
honours, provided the suit is headed by the ace or king, you can
reasonably expect to secure three tricks in the trump suit.
Aces and kings in the side suits are usually good for a trick each;
but allow for the length of the suit, the shorter it is the less
probability that your honours will be trumped. It is not safe to
count on making your queens; they may be classed as doubtful tricks.
Spades may be doubled with four tricks. To double hearts, diamonds,
or clubs you should be sure of five tricks.
THE LEAD WHEN PARTNER HAS DOUBLED
A double by your partner indicates some strength in trumps as well as
in the side suits. It does not necessarily imply a desire to get the
trumps out, nor should you invariably lead trumps when your partner
has doubled; your play must be influenced by the general character of
your own hand.
If you hold a short suit it is obviously a better lead than trumps.
You may be able to ruff with your small trumps.
It is also bad play to lead trumps up to the maker. This would place
your partner’s high cards in a position to be easily captured by the
dealer.
When dummy is the maker, the trump lead from weakness through the
strong hand gives your partner the advantage of position; but it is
safer play to win the first trick, if possible, and decide on your
subsequent play after seeing the dummy hand.
Avoid leading trumps to your partner if you hold the ace, the king,
or the queen of trumps guarded; your partner may have doubled on high
suit cards with but little strength in trumps.
In leading trumps from weakness always lead the highest card, so that
your partner can discover the distribution of the suit, and place the
dealer’s trumps.
As a doubled spade make does not of necessity show strength in
trumps, it is not as a rule the custom of good players to lead
spades, except from strength, before seeing the dummy hand. If
you hold trump strength your partner has probably doubled on his
suit cards, and your trump lead will insure the safety of his high
cards. Should you hold a strong suit hand, your partner’s double is
presumably an indication of trump strength, and the trump opening
would be advisable.
With only fair strength in the side suits and weak trumps, especially
where you hold a short suit, do not be tempted to lead the trump
originally. Wait until you learn more of the position of the cards.
THE HEART CONVENTION
When you have the first lead and your partner has doubled a
“no-trump” make, you are expected to lead your highest heart.
Under this system the younger hand does not double “no-trumps” unless
he is willing that a heart should be led; and although the doubling
power of the younger hand is reduced, it makes your lead, unless you
have the misfortune to hold no heart, a practical certainty.
Should you hold an established suit and the ace of hearts you must,
of course, double to have the heart led. When you hold an established
suit of hearts, or a long suit of hearts that can be established in
one lead and a sure card of re-entry, a double may save the game.
THE WEAK SUIT CONVENTION
In England and in some parts of this country, if the younger hand
doubles it is a signal for his partner to lead the highest card of
his weakest suit; trusting that this weak suit and the doubler’s long
one will prove identical.
As this convention justifies a double with any established suit, it
multiplies the opportunities to double; but, on the other hand, since
the leader may have to choose between two weak suits, there is no
certainty that he will make the desired lead; he may instead strike
the dealer’s long suit with a disastrous result.
THE NON-DEALER’S PLAY AGAINST A DECLARED TRUMP
Remember that in playing against a trump declaration, unless it be
spades, you are sure to find trump strength, probably five or more,
with the maker. If you are weak in the trump suit, and your partner
does not show strength by doubling, your best defence is an endeavour
to save the game by making high cards early in the hand.
In playing against a red declaration, be on the defensive from the
start. The only time that you can afford to be aggressive is when it
is evident that the dealer is trying to establish a “cross-ruff,” or
a “ruff” in the weak trump hand.
It is an advantage to win the first trick, as this enables you to
see the thirteen cards in dummy. The scheme of play of a hand may be
changed after the dummy is seen; therefore, it is not possible to
state what should be done after the opening lead; but, as a general
principle, it is safe either to continue the suit led originally or
to endeavour to help your partner’s hand by leading through strength.
You should be careful at all times neither to establish a suit for
the adversary, nor to give the dealer an opportunity to discard his
worthless cards.
When there is an established suit against you, unless you can stop
the dealer’s lead of trumps, make all possible tricks before you give
up the lead. If the dealer once obtains the lead, he may exhaust the
trumps, and make the established suit.
As the dealer sees the dummy hand and his own, and therefore knows
the cards that are against him, give your partner correct information
regarding the cards you hold. While this may be valuable to the
dealer in placing the cards, the knowledge will be of greater benefit
to your partner and yourself.
THE OPENING LEAD
When trumps are against you, unless you lead your high cards early in
the hand you may lose them. The dealer may be able to exhaust trumps,
and make some one suit on which to discard his losing cards. When
your hand is strong in each suit, there is not this danger; there can
be no established suit against you.
No doubt the best opening that can be made against a trump
declaration is from a combination containing both ace and king. The
lead of the king from this combination gives you an opportunity to
see the dummy and does not clear the suit for the adversary. While
the king lead should usually be followed by the ace, in some cases,
where it is apparent that the dealer’s weak hand can trump on the
second round, or that the lead may clear the suit for the dealer or
dummy, the suit should not be continued. It is rarely wrong to lead
from a sequence, especially from one of three high cards. If you
hold no sequence of three, perhaps those containing two honours in
sequence, such as king queen, queen jack, or even jack ten, may be
classed as good openings. Often when you hold no high card sequence,
the lead is a disadvantage; experience shows that you make more
tricks in a suit if it is led to you; for that reason it is often
advisable to refrain from opening tenace suits or suits with a single
honour.
The following are given as examples of combinations from which it is
not advisable to lead:
A Q x x
A J x x
K J x x
K x x x
In opening a suit headed by the ace, avoid the lead of a low card.
The dealer may win the first round and find means to discard his
remaining losing cards in that suit.
No objection can be raised to the lead of an ace with four or more
other cards in the suit, but with less than five it is better play
to avoid leading that suit. If the lead comes up to you, the ace may
kill some high cards in the adversary’s hand and promote the value
of the cards held by your partner; whereas if you lead the ace
presumably only small cards will fall, making high ones good for the
dealer.
If your hand is hopelessly weak in trumps and in side suits, even
with but three cards in the suit, an ace should be led in order to
save a grand slam.
If you are forced to open a suit containing a single honour, or a
suit with two honours not in sequence, not including suits headed by
the ace, the fourth best card should be led.
The following are given as examples of combinations from which the
fourth best card should be led:
K J x x
K 10 x x
K x x x
Q x x x
Q 10 x x
J x x x
10 x x x
With a long weak suit it is better play to lead the fourth best card.
Any irregular lead may suggest a short suit to your partner, and loss
may result from his incorrect interpretation of the lead.
EXAMPLES OF OPENING LEADS
THE UNDERLINED CARD INDICATES THE LEAD.
(_Hearts_) TRUMP DECLARED BY DEALER.
+---------------------------------------------------------+
| Transcriber's Note: |
| The underlines have been replaced with square brackets. |
| For example [K]. |
+---------------------------------------------------------+
_Holding the Lead._
+--------------+----------------+---------------+--------------+
| ♥ | ♠ | ♦ | ♣ |
+--------------+----------------+---------------+--------------+
| J 8 2 | K J 7 6 | A [K] Q 5 3 |7 |
| 8 |[A] Q 6 5 4 2 | Q 8 4 | 9 8 |
| J 10 | 10 8 4 | K J 9 |[A] 8 7 4 3 |
| 6 4 |[A] Q J 10 9 | 7 3 2 | 9 6 4 |
| 10 4 | A 6 |[A] J 7 5 3 2 | 8 7 5 |
| 9 7 | A [K] 4 | A 8 6 4 3 | 7 6 3 |
| 6 5 3 | 8 6 5 2 | K J 5 3 |[A] K |
| J 6 5 | 9 6 4 2 |[A] 10 | 9 7 4 3 |
| 9 5 3 |[A] 6 | K 9 5 2 | A Q 5 4 |
| 8 6 5 | 9 6 3 |[A] J 9 4 | 10 5 3 |
+--------------+----------------+---------------+--------------+
_Leading from a Sequence._
+--------------+----------------+---------------+--------------+
| ♥ | ♠ | ♦ | ♣ |
+--------------+----------------+---------------+--------------+
| 8 6 | A 5 | A J 5 |[K] Q J 7 6 4 |
| 9 8 6 4 | 7 | A 8 5 3 |[K] Q J 10 |
| K 8 5 | 8 5 4 | 10 6 5 3 |[Q] J 10 |
| K 10 5 | K 6 3 |[K] Q 8 5 | A 7 3 |
| A J 6 | K 6 4 | 8 6 4 3 |[K] Q J |
| Q 7 5 |[Q] J 10 6 | A 8 5 | A Q 7 |
| J 6 4 | 10 |[K] Q J 9 7 5 | Q 7 3 |
+--------------+----------------+---------------+--------------+
_Leading from Long Suits._
+--------------+----------------+---------------+--------------+
| ♥ | ♠ | ♦ | ♣ |
+--------------+----------------+---------------+--------------+
| Q J 7 4 | K 10 8 [4] | A 7 | J 9 5 |
| K 6 |[Q] J 9 6 4 | 9 8 6 | 6 5 2 |
| 8 5 | A J 6 | K J [10] 8 5 | K 7 4 |
| J 10 | Q J 7 [3] | A Q 6 3 | A J 8 |
| A J 7 5 | 4 3 | 10 8 7 [4] 2 | Q 5 |
| J 8 5 3 | K 10 7 [5] 3 | A 8 6 | 8 |
| 8 6 4 | 9 5 2 | 8 6 3 | Q 9 6 [4] |
| 10 6 | K 10 8 [3] | 10 7 6 2 | A J 5 |
| K 10 7 | A J 8 | 10 7 5 [4] | Q 9 2 |
| A J | J 6 4 | Q 10 8 [6] 2 | 8 5 3 |
+--------------+----------------+-------------+----------------+
INFERENCES FROM HIGH CARD LEADS
It is not easy to determine from the lead of a high card how many
cards are held in the suit. You can only assume the length from the
number of cards you hold and the number in dummy. The fall of the
cards may give the information, but you cannot rely altogether on the
dealer’s play; it is his object to make it difficult for you to place
the cards.
=The lead of an ace= denies the king. If the king is neither
in dummy nor in your own hand, it should be placed with the dealer.
Should your partner, however, lead an ace and follow with the king,
the lead indicates that he holds no other card of that suit, and
should enable you to locate the queen.
Among the better players the lead of an ace also denies the queen,
since if the suit is led up to the ace, queen, tenace, two tricks may
be made. This inference, however, should not be too rigidly drawn,
because great length in the suit might justify an opening from an
ace-queen combination.
The lead of an ace followed by the queen indicates the jack.
The lead of an ace followed by the jack indicates the ten, or no
other card in the suit.
If it develops that your partner has led the ace from ace and two
small cards, it indicates either a very weak hand or a tenace in some
other suit.
=The lead of a king= indicates the ace, the queen, or both.
Should the king win the first trick, you should infer that your
partner holds the ace. If the king is taken by the ace, the queen is
marked in your partner’s hand. If the king is followed by the ace, it
denies the queen.
{ A K Q
{ A K J
=The king should be led from= { A K x
{ K Q J
{ K Q x
=The lead of a queen= denies the ace and the king, consequently
the lead places both of these high cards.
If a queen is led by your partner, you should infer that the lead is
from jack ten; perhaps it would be better to say that the lead shows
the jack. If you find the jack is either on the table or in your own
hand, the lead was evidently from a short suit; queen and one or a
singleton.
{Q J 10
{Q J 9
{Q J x
=The queen should be led from= {Q J
{Q x
{Q
=The lead of a jack= denies the ace, the king, and the queen;
consequently your partner holds no higher card of the suit; against a
declared trump, it usually indicates a short suit.
There is some difference of opinion among Bridge players as to this
lead; the jack is sometimes led from king queen jack, from king jack
ten, and even from ace jack ten. The lead of a jack as the top card
does away with the confusion that is caused by numerous interior
leads. It simplifies the lead and facilitates the placing of higher
cards.
{J 10 9
{J 10
=The jack should be led from= {J x
{J
=The lead of the ten= indicates the king jack and ten and denies
both ace and queen. If either the king or the jack is in your hand or
in dummy, the ten lead denies any higher card, and is probably the
top of a short suit.
{ K J 10 x
{ 10 9 x
=The ten should be led from= { 10 9
{ 10 x
{ 10
=The lead of a nine= denies all higher cards of the suit; it is
led only as a top card, and usually indicates a short suit.
{ 9 8 x
=The nine should be led from= { 9 x
{ 9
INFERENCES FROM LOW CARD LEADS
An application of the Rule of Eleven will materially assist you
to draw correct inferences from the lead of a small card. It will
indicate whether the lead is from a short or a long suit.
If you see more high cards than the Rule of Eleven would allow, you
can mark the lead, not as fourth best, but as the top of a short
suit. If the lead indicates a long suit, you can often determine the
exact combination of cards from which it has been made.
=The Rule of Eleven=
Deduct the size of the card led from eleven,
and the difference will show how many cards
higher than the one led are held _outside_ the
leader’s hand.
The lead of an eight or a seven (except at no-trumps) is more apt to
be from a short than from a long suit; combinations in which these
cards would be fourth best are seldom opened by good players.
It will be easier for your partner to read your lead, if with long
weak suits, headed by jack, ten, or nine, you lead the fourth best
card. These cards can be led to indicate a short suit.
You can determine the length of your partner’s suit by noticing the
fall of the low cards.
When it is evident that your partner has led the lowest card of his
suit, his lead indicates exactly four cards. If your partner is
leading from a long suit and plays down on the second round, he holds
more than four cards.
EXAMPLES OF INFERENCE FROM OPENING LEADS
A is the leader, Y the dummy, Z the dealer.
7♠ 3♠
x-------x
| Y |
A♠ | A B | 8♠ 5♠ 4♠
| Z |
x-------x
A’s lead of the ace denies the king and probably the queen; both of
these cards should be placed in the dealer’s hand.
8♠ 7♠ 4♠
x-------x
| Y |
Q♠ | A B | A♠ 9♠ 3♠
| Z |
x-------x
Third hand should play ace on queen; king is in
the dealer’s hand. A has probably led from queen
jack ten.
9♠ 5♠ 4♠
x-------x
| Y |
J♠ | A B | K♠ 6♠ 3♠
| Z |
x-------x
B should play the three; his partner’s lead indicates the top card,
and also shows that both ace and queen are in the dealer’s hand.
J♠ 8♠ 5♠
x-------x
| Y |
10♠ | A B | A♠ 6♠ 4♠
| Z |
x-------x
A’s lead of ten with jack on the table indicates
the top of a short suit. King and queen should be
placed in the dealer’s hand.
8♠ 7♠ 4♠
x-------x
| Y |
9♠ | A B | A♠ 10♠ 3♠
| Z |
x-------x
The lead indicates the top, probably, of a short suit. King, queen,
and jack are all marked in the dealer’s hand.
ORIGINAL TRUMP OPENINGS
If a trump has been declared by the dealer it is not, as a rule,
good play to lead trumps up to his strong hand; this lead would
necessarily place any high trump cards that your partner may hold
in a bad position. If, however, you hold a sequence in trumps and
strength in the side suits consisting of combinations from which you
do not wish to lead, a trump lead is admissible.
The following are given as examples of hands from which the trump
should be led when the dealer is the maker. In these cases hearts are
trumps.
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
| ♥ | ♦ | ♣ | ♠ |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
| [K] Q J | A Q x x | K x | K J x x |
| [K] Q | K J x x | A Q x | K x x x |
| [Q] J 10 | A J x x | A Q x | K x x |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
The underlined card indicates the lead.
+---------------------------------------------------------+
| Transcriber's Note: |
| The underlines have been replaced with square brackets. |
| For example [K]. |
+---------------------------------------------------------+
When dummy is the maker of the trump, there are many hands from which
the trump should be led as an initial opening. If you hold tenace
suits, or suit containing single honours, and the adversary or your
partner leads to you, you are in a better position to make your high
cards, hence a trump opening in order to throw the lead.
If, however, you hold a sequence in any one suit, the trump lead
is not necessary. Leading from a sequence is always good play, and
rarely results in loss.
The following hands are given as examples of original trump openings
when dummy is the maker.
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
| ♥ | ♦ | ♣ | ♠ |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
| [J] 10 | A Q x | K J x x |A Q x x |
| [9] x | A J x x | A x x x |K x x x |
| [7] 3 | A Q x | K x x x |K J x x |
| [8] 5 | A Q x x x | A J x |K Q x |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
The underlined card indicates the lead.
+---------------------------------------------------------+
| Transcriber's Note: |
| The underlines have been replaced with square brackets. |
| For example [K]. |
+---------------------------------------------------------+
ORIGINAL TRUMP OPENINGS FROM STRENGTH
It is advisable to lead trumps from strength in comparatively few
hands, for the reason that the lead indicates to the dealer the
position of the trump strength held against him. If, however, you
hold four or five trumps without an honour, and combinations in the
plain suits from which you do not wish to lead, the trump may be led
through the strong hand. This is especially true of a four-trump
hand, which contains three cards of each of the other suits.
Avoid opening the trump from strength when you hold a single honour,
or even two honours. You will gain, by waiting for the lead to come
to you.
THE TRUMP LEAD AGAINST A SPADE MAKE
As a rule, the aggressive spirit that should characterise the
non-dealer’s play of a spade hand is lacking. While a spade is not
necessarily made from weakness, the declaration in itself shows
sufficient weakness in the side suits to embolden the adversaries’
play. With a hand containing five trumps (spades) the initial opening
should be the trump. Your partner must hold suit strength which your
trump lead will protect.
If your five trumps contain a tenace and you can advantageously lead
from another suit, it may be advisable to wait for your partner to
lead to your tenace, particularly if by doubling you have indicated
trump strength.
If you have been redoubled and your hand contains four trumps and
strength in the side suits, the trump lead requires more careful
consideration.
Unless your partner has doubled the spade declaration it is
impossible for you to place the trump strength, and you should be
cautious about leading originally from a short trump suit.
HOW TO PLAY TO PARTNER’S TRUMP OPENING
Any trump opening from your partner is an indication of strength,
usually of strength in the side suits. It does not necessarily
follow that your partner wants the trumps out, but _it is_ an
indication that he is anxious to have his suits led to. If you win
the first trick in the trump suit, look to see if dummy offers you
an advantageous lead. If you hold fair strength in the side suits
with no protected honour in trumps and no short suit, there can be no
objection to the return of the trump lead; but if you hold a tenace
over dummy’s strength in trumps, or a high card that is protected,
it would be a bad play to return the trump lead. Wait until your
partner or the adversary leads up to you. Do not return the trump
lead if you hold a short suit. Lead the short suit. You may be given
an opportunity to make one of your trumps.
LEADING TRUMPS TO PREVENT A RUFF IN THE WEAK TRUMP HAND
When the dealer seems backward about leading trumps, the inference is
that he is trying to establish a ruff in the weak trump hand, and you
should be on the alert to prevent this by leading trumps (through the
strength). It may be necessary for you to lead the trump after your
initial lead. It may be advisable to stop leading a suit, which would
help to establish a ruff in the weak hand; or it may be essential
that you try to place your partner in the lead, so that he can lead
the trumps through the strong hand. If you are weak in dummy’s long
suit, it is always more or less dangerous to lead trumps. When this
is the case, your lead might help the dealer to exhaust trumps and
make this long suit.
SHORT SUIT OPENINGS
In Bridge the term short suit implies a singleton or a two-card
suit, although, strictly speaking, any suit of fewer than four cards
is short. With a very weak hand (no high cards in any suit) it is
evident that the only possible way of making tricks is by a short
lead, which may enable you to ruff the suit on the second or third
round. With a hand that contains tenace suits or suits with a single
honour, it is often advisable to lead short; this opening gives you a
double advantage; you may have an opportunity to ruff, and you throw
the lead with the purpose of having your honour suits led up to.
With most players the desire to make a small trump is very strong,
and often leads to thoroughly unsound openings. It is always wrong
to open a short suit when you hold an ace king suit. Why play in the
dark, when by leading the king of your ace king suit, you are in a
position to hold the lead until you have seen dummy and can judge as
to the advisability of the weak lead? A suit headed by king queen
is also a safer opening than a short lead, which may establish the
suit for the dealer; although, if you hold an honour that will stop
the adversaries’ trump lead, say an ace or a guarded king, you are
almost certain to be in the lead before the dealer has an opportunity
to discard worthless cards on his established suit. Any short lead
may establish a suit for the dealer or dummy; in fact, the chances
are that it will. If you are weak in trumps and have little or no
strength in the side suits, you have not much to lose by the short
lead. The dealer will establish and make his suit with or without
help. On the other hand, if you are strong in trumps, you may be able
to make it most difficult for the dealer to exhaust the trumps and
make a suit unless, by your weak lead, you establish it for him.
With strength in trumps the short opening is unsound, particularly
with four trumps is it apt to ruin your hand. One force given your
hand makes it easy for the dealer to exhaust your trumps and to make
the suit that you, by your short lead, have established.
With four trumps open your long suit. The maker probably holds five
trumps, and when one force is given to his hand, you have an equal
number. Even though your trumps are small the dealer must exhaust
his own to draw them, and a card of re-entry in your hand or that of
your partner will probably enable you to make your suit. At any rate,
you have made it difficult for the dealer to establish his suit, or
retrieve any subsequent error in his play.
With five trumps and any good suit the latter should be opened.
When the make has been passed, should you hold no long suit, choose
preferably a short red suit. In other words lead up to the dealer’s
supposed weakness.
With six trumps little or no objection can be raised to the short
lead. When the trump situation is known you may be forced to lead
them to the maker, so that you should early in the hand try to take
as many trump tricks as possible.
At all times select the highest card of a short suit for the lead.
This is done to give requisite information to your partner. Unless he
can see, in his hand or dummy, great strength in the suit, the lead
of a very low card is most difficult to read as short.
The following are given as examples of hands from which a short suit
may be led. The trump (hearts) declared by the dealer. The card
underlined indicates the lead.
+---------------------------------------------------------+
| Transcriber's Note: |
| The underlines have been replaced with square brackets. |
| For example [K]. |
+---------------------------------------------------------+
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
| ♥ | ♣ | ♦ | ♠ |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
| K 5 2 | A J 6 4 |[10] 9 | A Q 5 3 |
| A 9 3 |[8] 6 | 9 7 4 2 | Q 8 6 4 |
| A Q 8 | K J 6 3 |[J] 10 | K 8 4 2 |
| A 9 3 |[Q] | K 8 6 4 2 | J 8 5 3 |
| Q 5 2 |[J] 10 4 | K 8 4 | K 5 4 2 |
| J 7 3 | A Q 9 6 |[K] Q | K J 4 2 |
| 8 6 2 |[9] | J 8 6 4 2 | 10 8 4 |
| 7 5 | Q 6 4 3 |[9] 8 | 10 6 5 3 2 |
+-------------+-------------+-------------+-------------+
LEADING THROUGH STRENGTH
The fundamental idea of leading through strength is to help your
partner to make his high cards by allowing him to play after the
exposed hand. “Leading through” means to make a person play second
hand to the trick. You always lead through your left hand adversary.
Should your partner hold K J x with A Q x in dummy, it is obvious
that if you lead through the suit, your partner may win two tricks,
whereas if he is forced to lead up to the strength, one trick at
least would be lost. Players will often say, “How can I know that
my partner has any high cards in that suit?” Perhaps you cannot be
certain of the distribution of the high cards; in leading through
strength you hope that your partner holds the missing honours,
realising that if all the strength is with the dealer, nothing
is lost. “Leading through strength” is simply looking ahead and
foreseeing what may happen. In other words, not placing your partner
in a position whereby he may be forced to lead up to the strength in
dummy.
WHEN TO LEAD THROUGH STRENGTH
After taking the first trick, study the dummy carefully in order to
see which suit may be led through advantageously. If there are two
suits to choose from, select the suit in which you are short, hoping
it may afford you an opportunity to make a small trump.
The fall of the cards will often indicate that your partner can
trump the second or third round of the suit you are leading. Before
giving him the ruff, consider that he will be compelled to lead, and
if there is no suit in dummy that he can lead to advantageously, it
is better for you to lead through the strength on the table than to
force your partner to lead up to the strong hand. Of course, if it
is necessary to save the game by all means give your partner the
ruff, but if, on the other hand, you hold the ace or guarded king
of trumps, _i.e._ a high card that will stop the adversary’s trump
lead, it is preferable to lead through dummy’s strength. Later you
can stop the trump lead and give your partner the ruff.
CHOICE OF SUITS TO LEAD THROUGH
In leading through strength, certain suits are preferable to others.
A guarded king in the dummy is an ideal suit to lead through when you
hold the queen, jack, ten of the same suit. By leading the queen, if
your partner holds the ace, you can prevent dummy’s king from making.
In leading through strength, avoid a suit in which you yourself hold
a protected honour. For instance, holding king, jack, small, it would
be bad play to lead through ace, queen, ten, as this would give the
dummy an opportunity to make three tricks in the suit.
The following may be classed as good combinations from which to lead
through strength in dummy:
=Holding= =Lead through=
J 10 9 }
10 9 x } A Q x in Dummy
x x x }
x x x A J x or A x x in Dummy
10 9 x } K J x in Dummy
x x x }
Q J 10 }
Q J x }
Q x } K x x in Dummy
J 10 x }
10 9 x }
x x x }
J 10 9 }
J 10 x } Q x x in Dummy
x x x }
In leading through any of these combinations, the top card of a
sequence should be led. In fact, with three cards or fewer in a suit,
it is almost an invariable rule to lead the highest card.
The following are combinations which should be led through only as a
last resort:
=Holding= =Avoid leading through=
{ A J x
Q x x { A 10 x in Dummy
{ K J x
{ K 10 x
{ A Q x
{ A J x
K x x { A x x in Dummy
{ Q J x
{ Q x x
{ Q x
J x x x { A 10 x
{ K 10 x in Dummy
SUGGESTIONS FOR THIRD HAND PLAY
When you are trying to win the trick, play high third in hand; but
if your cards, or your cards combined with those in the dummy are in
sequence, play the lowest card of the sequence.
Do not finesse against your partner; help his hand at the sacrifice
of your high card. If, however, you hold ace, jack, small,--with
king or queen in dummy,--the play of the jack is permissible; your
partner’s lead practically shows one of these honours.
When you hold the ace and your partner leads a jack through a guarded
king or queen in dummy, it is often good play to pass the first
trick. By playing the ace you will probably establish two high cards
for the dealer.
If your partner’s lead clearly indicates a short suit, with the ace
marked in the dealer’s hand, do not sacrifice a king. Allow the
dealer to win the trick cheaply, if necessary, but keep your king
guarded. By playing a low card you may deceive an unwary dealer, and
at any rate you will put the dealer to some trouble to catch your
king.
At “no-trump,” provided the dummy holds an honour, you should finesse
deeply in your partner’s suit. The application of the Eleven Rule
will materially help you in finessing. When there is a guarded queen
in the dummy and you hold the king, ten, small, or ace, ten, small,
to finesse is sound play. If dummy holds a twice guarded king and you
hold the ace, jack, small, it often pays not to take the finesse, for
should you abandon the suit to wait until your partner can again lead
through the king, you may take out the only re-entry card in his hand.
Unless your partner holds two re-entries, you gain nothing by the
finesse.
INFERENCES FROM THIRD-HAND PLAY
It is very important for the leader, especially in a “no-trump” hand,
to be in a position to determine whether his suit should be continued
or abandoned. Careful notice of the card your partner plays to the
first trick will often enable you to place the high cards in that
suit, and in this way suggest your subsequent play.
The following are given as illustrations of inferences to be drawn by
the leader from third-hand play:
A and B are partners, and the underlined card in each example
indicates A’s lead; Y’s cards are exposed.
+---------------------------------------------------------+
| Transcriber's Note: |
| The underlines have been replaced with square brackets. |
| For example [K]. |
+---------------------------------------------------------+
8♠ 7♠
x-------x
| Y |
K♠ 10♠ 6♠ [5♠] | A B | Q♠
| Z |
x-------x
A♠
B’s play of queen denies the jack, which should therefore be marked
in the dealer’s hand. The small cards cannot be placed.
6♠ 3♠
x-------x
| Y |
A♠ J♠ 7♠ [5♠] | A B | 9♠
| Z |
x-------x
K♠
B’s play of the nine denies the eight and the queen. Both of these
cards must be in the dealer’s hand. The ten should be placed with B.
The leader, in order to catch the dealer’s queen, must await a return
of the suit.
7♠ 3♠
x-------x
| Y |
Q♠ 9♠ 6♠ [5♠] | A B | J♠
| Z |
x-------x
A♠
The play of the jack denies the ten and the king; both of these cards
are marked in the dealer’s hand. Should A continue this suit, it
would allow the dealer to make tricks with both ten and king. The
suit must be abandoned until the lead can come from B’s hand.
J♠ 8♠
x-------x
| Y |
K♠ 9♠ 7♠ [6♠] | A B | Q♠
| Z |
x-------x
A♠
B’s play of the queen with the jack exposed on the table denies the
ten, which must be in the dealer’s hand.
10♠ 7♠ 5♠
x-------x
| Y |
J♠ 9♠ 8♠ [6♠] | A B | K♠
| Z |
x-------x
A♠
B’s play of the king denies the queen. To continue the suit might
allow the dealer to make two tricks. A should abandon the suit until
B can return it through the dealer’s hand.
J♠ 7♠ 2♠
x-------x
| Y |
10♠ 9♠ 6♠ [4♠] | A B | Q♠
| Z |
x-------x
A♠
It is impossible to tell whether the king is held by the dealer or
by B. The suit, however, may be continued with the ten. If B holds
the king this may shut out the jack. If the dealer holds the king
probably nothing will be lost.
8♠ 7♠ 5♠
x-------x
| Y |
[Q♠] J♠ 10♠ 9♠ | A B | A♠
| Z |
x-------x
B’s play of the ace denies the king, which should be placed with
the dealer.
K♠ 6♠ 5♠
x-------x
| Y |
Q♠ 8♠ 7♠ [2♠] | A B | A♠
| Z |
x-------x
It is customary holding the ace and jack with the king or queen in
dummy to finesse the jack third in hand. B’s play of ace would,
therefore, deny the jack, which is marked with the dealer. Avoid
continuing the suit.
K♠ 6♠ 4♠
x-------x
| Y |
Q♠ 7♠ 5♠ [3♠] | A B | 10♠
| Z |
x-------x
8♠
As the dealer does not take the ten, the ace and jack are presumably
in B’s hand. B’s play of ten denies the nine, which should be placed
with the dealer.
6♠ 4♠ 2♠
x-------x
| Y |
J♠ 8♠ 7♠ [5♠] | A B | A♠ K♠
| Z |
x-------x
B plays ace to the first trick, and returns the king; this indicates
no more cards in the suit, and marks the queen in the dealer’s hand.
LEADING UP TO DUMMY
With dummy on your right, you should invariably lead up to the weak
suit. This is especially important when you hold no high cards in the
suit, for in this case the strength lies between your partner and the
dealer. By leading through the dealer’s hand you give your partner
the advantage of position; otherwise he may be forced to lead up to
the dealer’s strength.
In leading up to weakness, the general rule of leading the highest
card of a sequence should be followed. It is often good play, when
dummy holds no honour in the suit, to lead a card higher than dummy’s
best. This permits your partner, if the lead is not covered, to pass
the trick.
If dummy’s weakness is in the trump suit, your best play will often
be to lead trumps through the dealer’s strong hand, rather than to
lead up to the high cards in dummy. If you hold a guarded king and
dummy a guarded queen, do not be tempted to lead up to this honour.
It would be obviously wrong to lead up to a king if you hold the
ace. You must wait until this suit is led by the adversary or your
partner. Do not lead up to an ace in dummy if you hold the king. You
are reasonably sure to make a trick with this card if you wait until
the suit is led by the dealer or your partner. If you hold a sequence
headed by the queen or jack, little or no objection can be raised to
your leading up to an ace or king, and on each occasion the highest
card of the sequence should be led.
Should you lead a low card up to dummy’s strong suit, your lead would
indicate a singleton and a desire to “ruff.”
THE ECHO
In Whist the play to a lead of a high and then a lower card is a
signal for a lead of trumps, and is necessarily an indication of
strength in trumps.
In Bridge this convention is used to show control of the third round
of the suit led. Some players use this echo or signal to show that
they can trump the third round of the suit, while with others it
implies control of the third round either with the high card or by a
“ruff.”
This signal should not be used except on your partner’s lead of king,
as otherwise it would give information to the dealer. To use it
on the adversary’s lead would help the dealer to make successful
finesses, and to mark the distribution of the suits. Be careful when
you use this signal not to echo with an honour. If you hold Q x, J
x, 10 x, do not play the honour to the first trick; not only is your
partner apt to think you have no more of the suit, but these honours
are too valuable to throw away.
FORCING
To force is to make a player trump. This will, of course, reduce his
trump strength and weaken his hand. It is as a rule good play to
force the adversary’s strong trump hand. It will often prevent his
exhausting the trumps, and hinder his bringing in an established suit.
The beginner hesitates to force the strong trump hand. He feels that
he is wasting a high card and allowing the adversary to make a small
trump, not realising that no card of this suit can make, unless the
trumps are exhausted.
If no force be given to the strong hand, it is, ordinarily, an easy
matter for the dealer to exhaust trumps and make a suit; unless there
is unusual length in trumps, judicious forcing will do more than
anything else to break down a strong trump hand.
Do not lead a suit with the intention of forcing the strong hand
unless you hold the commanding card or can mark this card with your
partner; you may give the dealer an opportunity to win the trick and
to discard a worthless card.
You should hesitate to force when by doing so you establish the
remaining cards of the suit for your opponent.
You should not attempt to force the strong hand when there is an
established suit against you, particularly when it can be inferred
that the dealer has all the high cards in the trump suit. At this
time, make what you can in the remaining suit before you give up the
lead.
It is wrong to force the weak hand. You lose one of your high cards,
and the maker’s trumps are still intact. Do not continue a suit when
it is shown that the weak hand can “ruff.”
In playing against the make, if you infer that your partner is weak
in trumps and also short in a side suit, it is usually advisable to
allow him to make small trumps by forcing him. This should always
be done when a short suit has been led by your partner. His lead
practically asks for the “ruff.”
If, however, your partner has doubled, be more careful about forcing
him. By reducing his trump strength you may severely injure his hand.
It is bad play to lead a suit that both the dealer and the dummy can
trump. It allows the dealer to trump in one hand and to discard a
worthless card in the other.
RETURNING PARTNER’S LEAD
Ordinarily it is not possible to establish a suit against the
dealer’s strong trump hand, and this does away with the usual
argument in favour of returning your partner’s original lead. On the
contrary, it is probably the last thing that should be done. Your
play is to make any high cards you may hold, and then to search for
a weak suit in the dummy hand. If you lead up to this weakness, the
dealer cannot place the strength in the suit, and your partner is in
a very good position to win a trick cheaply.
After making your high cards, should there be no weak suit in dummy
to lead up to, return your partner’s lead.
SECOND-HAND PLAY
When opposed to the dealer the question of correct second-hand play
is relative to your position at the table. That is whether you play
before the dummy or before the dealer. In other words, whether the
dummy is at your left or whether the dealer is at your left.
If you will try to infer why the dealer is leading that suit, it
will assist you to decide on the correct second-hand play. It is, of
course, reasonable to suppose that he has some strength in the suit.
What this strength may be you must judge from the cards that you hold
and those that you see on the table.
WHEN YOU PLAY BEFORE THE DUMMY
It is evident that when dummy is weak the second-hand play is greatly
simplified. You either play higher than dummy’s best, or pass the
trick to your partner. Should dummy hold strength or a high card in
the suit, it is usually better to play higher than any card dummy
holds. For instance, if you hold K x x, with the queen and others on
the table, your second-hand play would be the king; otherwise the
queen in dummy may win the trick. In this position, however, there
are times when a low card should be played. For instance, dummy holds
K with others, and you hold A J x; the second-hand play is low; for
should the adversary take the trick with the king and return the
same suit you win two tricks instead of one. If you hold ace and
one or two small cards with king and jack in dummy, the second-hand
play should be a low card. Should the dealer finesse the jack, your
partner may win the trick.
Should dummy hold over you in a position to overtake any card you
may play, unless you hold two honours in sequence, always play your
lowest card. For instance, when you hold K J x, and dummy holds A Q
x, it is useless to play any card but the lowest. Dummy is sure to
win two tricks in the suit.
If you hold K Q x with A J x in dummy, your two honours are in
sequence and the lower honour should be played.
Should you hold A Q x with K J x in dummy, the ace is the best
second-hand play. If a low card be played, the dealer, by finessing
the jack, can place the ace and the queen in your hand, and of course
he will not continue the suit; while if the ace is played, the queen,
not being so clearly marked, may win the third round.
Usually cover an honour with an honour even though you know that
your high card will be lost. Do so whenever you hold a fourchette;
whenever you hold the ten of the same suit, which you may eventually
make good; or whenever, by covering, you can reasonably hope to make
a card good in partner’s hand. It is not, however, advisable to cover
a queen led holding K x x x unless one of the small cards be a nine
or better; the adversary will find it difficult to catch a king that
is three times protected. On the other hand, a king that is once or
even twice guarded can be easily captured, and for that reason, and
with the object of promoting a card in your partner’s hand, it is
usually good play to cover the lead of a jack or queen.
Do not give the dealer an indication of the cards that you hold by
hesitating in your play. Decide on and play a card quickly. If there
is a doubt as to your play, play your lowest, remembering that the
dealer must guess the position of missing honours.
WHEN YOU PLAY BEFORE THE DEALER
When the dummy is weak and you play before the dealer, it is with
the assurance that the missing strength in the suit is over you.
This strength may be held by the dealer or by your partner. As he
is leading the suit, the chances are that the balance of strength
is with the dealer; therefore, unless you know that you can win the
trick, do not play a high card.
With ace and others in a suit, if you do not play the ace second in
hand, the dealer may win the trick and discard his worthless cards in
that suit. The second-hand play of an ace is particularly necessary
later in the hand, and when the trumps are against you.
When you play before the dealer follow the same general rules as to
covering an honour, and as to playing the lower of two honours in
sequence. If dummy holds an ace and others of a suit, and you hold
K J x play the king second hand. With small cards of a suit in dummy
and ace queen and others in your own hand, the ace should be played
second in hand.
INFERENCES
There is no subject in Whist or Bridge so interesting as that of
inferences. Each card that is played carries with it some information
that will often render valuable aid to the play of the hand.
To be able to read the cards correctly, and to draw the proper
inferences, requires not only experience, but a certain amount
of inherent card genius. The beginner marvels at the amount of
information obtained by the expert, wondering how it can possibly
be secured. To the average person who sits down to watch a game of
Bridge there is nothing more demoralising than to see how readily the
good player finds out the location of most of the high cards, and, in
many cases, even the distribution of the various suits.
Strange as it may seem, writers on Bridge and Whist have, as a
rule, devoted little space to this almost inexhaustible subject. A
good-sized book could be written entirely on inferences; and let
no one be discouraged at his lack of skill in this direction, for,
even among the good players, errors are very common. The best Bridge
players, however, are undoubtedly those who can draw inferences
quickly and correctly.
THE VALUE OF INFORMATION
When playing against the dealer, give your partner all possible
information. Any deception or play of false cards, any irregular lead
that is not conventional, will often react to the benefit of the
dealer.
Information may be given by leading correctly, by taking a trick as
cheaply as possible, by discarding properly, by correct second-hand
play, and by returning or not returning your partner’s lead.
At times the information that you give your partner may benefit the
dealer by enabling him to mark the distribution of a suit, but more
often is it of greater value to your partner. The dealer knows from
the start the exact cards that are held against him; while your
partner needs all the information you can give to combine with you in
defending the dealer’s attack.
There are players who claim that you should not lead the fourth best
card against a trump declaration, asserting that the information it
gives may benefit the dealer, and that, should a card lower than the
one led be played, your partner may think it a short lead. These
players make the distinction of leading their lowest card against
a declared trump, and the fourth best only against a “no-trump”
declaration. This may appeal to those who neither count cards nor
apply the useful Eleven Rule, but it does not satisfy the clever
player, who wishes to count his partner’s suit, and to determine the
exact combination of cards it contains.
If you deprive your partner of the information to which he is
entitled, you rob Bridge of much of its intellectual pleasure. How
can he know when the weak hand can “ruff” your suit? How can he tell
whether a lead will force the strong hand or give it a discard? How
can he count your hand or the dealer’s? How can he make correct end
plays without knowing the position of the cards?
Without this help to partnership play you are in no position to
combat the dealer. It is not difficult to win tricks from adversaries
who neither give, nor make use of information.
HOW TO DRAW INFERENCES
Bridge is in this respect a much easier game than Whist. In Bridge
the declaration and the exposed dummy hand, both absent in Whist,
lend enormous assistance in locating the cards.
The beginner invariably becomes interested in his own cards, or those
of the dummy, and plays without paying any particular attention to
the card that is led or to the one that wins the first trick; in
other words he knows nothing about the location of the cards in that
particular suit, and his disregard of the fall of the cards continues
throughout the entire hand.
A notice which nothing escapes, the ability to count cards, and
absolute confidence in your partner’s play, is the _sine qua non_ of
correct inferences.
Notice particularly the card that your partner leads; if it be a
high card, understand what it indicates; and, if it be a low card,
ascertain whether it is led from a long or a short suit.
Watch the cards as they fall, the adversaries’ as well as your
partner’s, with unceasing attention, and make a mental interpretation
of each play, with due allowance for the dealer’s false cards.
Don’t jump at a conclusion which masses the remaining cards of
a suit, but count each suit accurately, with a certainty of the
particular cards that must be held by the dealer and your partner.
Much of the intellectual enjoyment of Bridge is derived from playing
your hand in conjunction with your partner’s. Credit your partner
with playing for the common interest of the hands and place absolute
confidence in the information he gives you. A trust in your partner’s
Bridge ability will overcome many an obstacle in the way of drawing
inferences.
INFERENCES REGARDING THE MAKE
In many hands the declaration and the cards in dummy will show you
the dealer’s probable strength; and will also suggest the number of
trumps held by your partner.
For instance, should you hold three trumps with three in the dummy,
you cannot expect your partner to hold more than two trumps, allowing
for at least five in the dealer’s hand.
Should you hold four trumps, with three on the table, your partner
cannot have more than one; he may have none.
Although at times you can place high cards in the trump suit, it is
difficult to locate honours in a “no-trump” hand. However, keeping
the general rules for the make in view, you can form some idea of the
adversary’s strength.
When the dealer has passed the make you can often infer from his
subsequent play the absence of certain cards. For instance, should
the dealer, having passed the make, play two aces, he probably does
not hold much strength in the other two suits.
GENERAL INFERENCES
When your partner makes what appears to be an unusual play, do not
condemn it, but ask yourself why the play was made. For instance, Why
does your partner not lead through the strength in dummy? It may be
that he has an honour in that suit, and is waiting for the adversary
to lead.
Why does your partner lead up to dummy’s strong suit, instead of to
the weak one? He is probably leading a singleton, or he may be very
long in that suit and hopes that you will trump.
Why does the dealer not lead trumps? He may be trying to establish a
“ruff” in the weak hand; he may be trying to arrange the lead so that
his trumps can be led advantageously from the weak hand; or it may be
because the balance of trump strength is against him.
Why does your partner abandon his long suit against a “no-trump”
make? It is because his card of re-entry has been taken out, because
the suit is hopelessly against him, or because he is waiting for you
to lead through the dealer’s hand.
Why does your partner refuse to return your lead in a “no-trump”
hand? It is either because he has no more of your suit, or because he
considers that his suit is stronger.
Why does your partner immediately return your lead against a declared
trump, instead of showing his own suit, or leading up to dummy’s
weakness? He is evidently anxious to trump the third round of your
suit.
With a “no-trump” hand, why does the dealer part with the ace of
his adversaries’ suit on the first round? It is because he has that
suit protected, because he can see enough tricks to win the game, or
because he is afraid that some other suit may be made against him.
After you have led up to the weak suit in dummy, and your partner has
taken the trick cheaply, why is it that he does not return that suit?
He is evidently waiting for you to lead through the dealer’s hand.
If, against a “no-trump” declaration, you are in doubt as to the
location of the winning card in your own suit, notice the card that
your partner plays in returning your lead, and remember that he will
return his highest card. This will enable you to tell what higher
cards are in dealer’s hand.
If you lead a high card, against a “no-trump” make, notice the card
that your partner plays to the trick. If he has four or more of that
suit, he will not play his lowest.
If the dealer takes out the commanding trump, he is either trying
to make you lead up to high cards in his hand, or some long suit is
established against you. If it is for the latter reason, be cautious
about forcing him. Make what you can in the remaining suit. It may be
dangerous to lose the lead.
If the dealer continues to lead trumps after the trumps in the other
hands are exhausted, you should be careful not to give information
that will be of use to the dealer in locating successful finesses.
THE NON-DEALER’S PLAY OF A “NO-TRUMP” HAND
Usually lead from your longest suit, against a “no-trump”
declaration, trusting that it will prove to be the weak spot in the
maker’s hand, or that you may be able to take out any high cards held
against you and eventually establish the suit. To make an established
suit, it may be necessary to have a card of re-entry. Therefore, be
careful not to lead aces and kings in order to see dummy. These cards
should be reserved as re-entry cards, and will no doubt be found most
useful later in the hand.
As leader infer from the fall of the cards, relying on your partner’s
correct third-hand play, the position of the remaining cards of your
long suit. Correct inferences will assist you to decide whether to
continue or to abandon the suit. If you find the cards so placed that
an advantageous lead of the suit must come from your partner, plan
carefully how best to put him in the lead.
If you know that the adversary has two high cards of your long suit,
especially when your card of re-entry has been taken out, abandon
your suit, and endeavour to help your partner by leading the suit
which you infer must be his. This may be your only chance to save the
game.
If the dummy has a long suit, and no card of re-entry, do not be in a
hurry to part with the commanding card of that suit. Wait until the
suit is exhausted in the dealer’s hand, so that he cannot lead it to
dummy. If, however, dummy has a sure card of re-entry there is little
reason for holding up your high card. It is better play to take the
first trick and hope that your partner holds a card that will stop
the suit.
When a high card of dummy’s long suit is marked in your partner’s
hand, it is well to take out dummy’s re-entry card before the suit is
established.
Notice carefully your partner’s discards in order to determine his
strong suit, as well as to be able to infer what high cards he is
endeavouring to protect. This will help you to discard correctly.
Avoid playing a selfish game, and do not feel indignant if your
partner, instead of returning your lead, attempts to play for his own
suit. His hand may fully justify the change of lead. By changing the
lead he shows not only a good suit, but also a card of re-entry.
THE ORIGINAL LEAD
The long suit is the best opening lead against a “no-trump”
declaration. While the declaration is, in itself, an indication of
general strength, in the majority of makes by the dealer one suit is
left to the dummy to protect, and your long suit may be the weak spot
in the dealer’s hand.
The leads against a “no-trump” declaration differ from those that are
in use against a trump declaration, for the reason that high cards
cannot be ruffed. With great length or considerable strength in your
long suit a high card should be led, but unless you can reasonably
expect to catch all of the remaining cards, your partner should be
given an opportunity to win the first trick in the suit.
If you hold no card of re-entry, except perhaps a high card in
your own long suit, you should be careful not to take out of your
partner’s hand the only card that he may have to return your lead,
for if you have no card of re-entry, and your partner has none of
your suit to return, your suit, even though established, is useless.
As unblocking is a very important feature of the play against a
“no-trump” declaration, it is necessary that you show your partner
from what combination of cards you are leading. The failure to
unblock is largely due to a lack of confidence in partner’s lead.
Those who are not familiar with the correct leads at “no-trump” would
do well to remember that the lead of a high card indicates three
honours or seven cards in the suit.
Frequently in opening a hand you will have two suits of equal length
to choose from. It is then advisable to keep the suit headed by the
higher card, for re-entry. For instance, holding two suits, one
headed by an ace and the other by the jack or queen, open the weaker
of the two, saving the ace as re-entry. This principle is sound; in
practice it may sometimes be found that your partner is strong in
the suit you do not open. Nevertheless, this lead from the weaker
of two suits, if consistently followed, will gain in the long run.
If you hold a red and a black suit, of equal length, especially if
the “no-trump” declaration has been made by the dummy, give the
preference to the red suit, inferring that the dealer is weak in red
cards.
When you are opening from a long weak suit, and especially when you
hold no re-entry card, endeavour to inform your partner that your
long suit is weak. Don’t encourage your partner to return your lead
unless there is a fair chance to establish and make your suit. From
each of the following combinations it is best to lead the highest
card:
10 9 7 6
9 8 6 4
8 7 5 3
When the top cards are not in sequence the lead
of the highest may lose a trick, and it is, therefore,
safer to lead the second best. As with
10 [8] 7 5 2
9 [7] 6 4 3
The underlined card should be led.
+--------------------------------------------------------+
| Transcriber's Note: |
| The underlines have been replaced with square brackets.|
| For example [K]. |
+--------------------------------------------------------+
If, however, you hold a long weak suit, and, say, two or more
possible re-entry cards, do not hesitate to encourage a return of the
lead by opening a low card.
THE ORIGINAL LEAD AT “NO-TRUMP”
+------------+---------------------------------------------------+
| LEAD | HOLDING |
+------------+---------------------------------------------------+
| | Ace, Queen, Jack, and others with a re-entry |
| | card. |
| =Ace= | Ace, with 7 or more others. |
| | Ace, Queen, with 5 others. |
| | Ace, Jack, with 5 others. |
+------------+---------------------------------------------------+
| | Ace, King, Queen and others. |
| | Ace, King, Jack and others. |
| | Ace, King, ten, and 3 others, with a re-entry |
| =King= | card. |
| | Ace, King and 5 or more others. |
| | King, Queen, Jack and others. |
| | King, Queen, ten and others. |
| | King, Queen and 5 others. |
+------------+---------------------------------------------------+
| | Queen, Jack, ten and others. |
| =Queen= | Queen, Jack, nine and others. |
| | Ace, Queen, Jack and others. No card of re-entry |
+------------+---------------------------------------------------+
| =Jack= | Jack, ten, nine and others. |
+------------+---------------------------------------------------+
| =Ten= | King, Jack, ten and others. |
+------------+---------------------------------------------------+
| =4th Best= | From other combinations. |
+------------+---------------------------------------------------+
OPENING A SHORT SUIT AGAINST A “NO-TRUMP” DECLARATION
If, as leader, your long suit is worthless, and your hand is
generally weak, there is a chance that your short suit may prove
to be your partner’s long one, and that the lead may help him to
establish his suit. While the odds are two to one against the success
of a short lead, in this case it may gain and certainly cannot lose
much. If, however, you hold five or six cards in your suit, open it;
there is always a chance that your partner may hold sufficient length
in the same suit to help you establish and bring it in.
If your long suit contains but four cards headed by one honour, king,
queen, or jack, with no other re-entry card in the hand, and you hold
a good supporting short lead, like jack ten or nine (particularly if
the make has been passed, and your short suit is a red one) the short
opening admits of no criticism.
If you hold a three or four card suit headed by ace, king, and queen,
no matter the length in other suits, the opening lead should be from
the ace king queen combination. With three cards of re-entry you can
certainly afford to lead one of them to determine whether conditions
justify the long suit lead.
The dummy hand may discourage the lead of your long suit and make it
advisable to try for your partner’s suit instead.
UNBLOCKING
To be able to use proper judgment in ridding yourself of cards
that you fear may block your partner’s suit, you should thoroughly
understand the leads, and above all things, you should have perfect
confidence that your partner has made the correct one. Remember that
a high card led against a “no-trump” declaration indicates great
strength or great length, and that you can rarely lose more than one
trick by throwing your own high card on the one led by your partner;
whereas a failure to unblock will often occasion the loss of several
cards in your partner’s hand. If you hold four cards in the suit that
your partner leads (provided of course the lead is high) save the
lowest card, playing the third best to the first trick, and then play
up. With five cards, play the fourth best to your partner’s high card
lead, and then play up or down as the situation demands.
With length in the suit that your partner leads, especially as an
original opening, it is often advisable to indicate your strength
by playing first a high and then a lower card. This echo or signal
encourages your partner to continue the suit.
With three cards in your partner’s suit two of which are honours, the
lower of the honours should be played to the first trick. By playing
the lowest card of all you will invariably block the suit.
With three cards including but one honour, the middle card should be
played to a high card lead, and the honour should be thrown or played
to the second lead. Be careful to return the highest card of your
partner’s suit, as this will minimise loss from blocking and allow
your partner to continue the suit without interruption.
The following are given as examples of unblocking:
+-------------+----------------+----------+
| HOLDING | ON PARTNER’S | PLAY |
| | LEAD OF | |
+-------------+----------------+----------+
| J 9 8 7 2 | K | 7 |
| J 8 5 3 | K | 5 |
| K Q 7 | A | Q |
| Q J 8 | K | J |
| K Q 5 | J | Q |
| Q 8 3 | K and A | Q on A |
+-------------+----------------+----------+
RETURNING PARTNER’S LEAD
To return partner’s lead, or to play for your own long suit? At times
you will find this a most difficult question to decide. It can be
stated that ordinarily it is better play to return your partner’s
original lead, for rarely are two suits made against a “no-trump”
declaration. In fact, it is hard enough to bring in one suit.... It
will assist you to settle this difficulty if you notice carefully the
card led by your partner, and infer from it the length of his suit.
You can often tell how many cards of that suit are in the dealer’s
hand. If, for instance, your partner’s lead indicates four cards and
there are three cards of that suit in dummy and two cards in your own
hand, it is evident that the dealer must hold four, and the chances
are, if the lead is returned, he will eventually be left with the
master card. As it is, of course, your purpose to avoid making cards
good for the adversary, should you hold a good suit under these
circumstances and a sure re-entry card, abandon your partner’s lead
by all means and play for your own hand.
When dummy holds four cards in your partner’s suit, hesitate to
return the lead, if by so doing you may establish the suit for your
opponent; but when dummy is weak in the suit, lead at the first
opportunity, through the dealer’s hand. Sometimes, if your own long
suit is headed by ace and king, it is well to lead the king before
returning your partner’s lead. This should always be done if the
queen is on the table, to make sure that your suit will eventually be
led through dummy’s queen. If you hold ace queen or ace queen jack
over the king in dummy, you would naturally prefer that your partner
lead the suit; but with a hand containing a sure re-entry card in
another suit, particularly when you hold the commanding card of the
adversaries’ suit, do not wait for your partner to lead; establish
the suit yourself. If, with no re-entry card, you intend playing for
your own long suit, do not draw all the cards of your suit from your
partner’s hand. If your partner has a card of your suit as well as a
card of re-entry, your suit will make; otherwise it is useless.
With four cards or fewer of your partner’s suit, the highest card
should always be returned. This is done in order that the suit may
not be blocked, and also to show your partner what high cards are
held by the dealer. When it is evident that you and your partner
hold an entire suit with the same number of cards in each hand, it
is well to arrange the lead on the last round of the suit according
to whether you would prefer to lead up to weakness or to have your
partner lead through dummy’s strength.
With five cards of your partner’s suit, especially if his lead
indicates but four, it is very difficult to decide how the suit
should be returned. If a low card is returned, it may lead your
partner to believe that all the high cards are in the dealer’s hand,
and induce him to discontinue the suit. On the other hand, the return
of a high card may block the suit so that you will be left with a
card which may never make. No rule can be given for this situation.
It must be left to the judgment of the player.
HOLDING UP BY THE NON-DEALERS
Holding up is a strategy resorted to at “no-trump.” The idea is to
retain a high card until one hand is exhausted and cannot lead the
suit to the opposite hand. Holding up does not often gain when the
hand with the long suit contains an entry card except at such times
as the dealer does not or cannot overtake; usually it is better play
to take the trick and trust that your partner can eventually stop the
suit. Do not hold up a high card if you can block the suit later, or
if there is a possibility that your partner holds an honour in the
suit.
The following are examples of holding up:
(The underlined card indicates the lead.)
+--------------------------------------------------------+
| Transcriber's Note: |
| The underlines have been replaced with square brackets.|
| For example [K]. |
+--------------------------------------------------------+
K♠ J♠ 10♠ 9♠ 8♠ 7♠
+-------+
| Y |
| A B | A♠ 6♠ 5♠
| Z |
+-------+
[Q♠]
In this case, dummy holds no entry card. The ace should not be played
by B until the dealer has no card of the suit.
A♠ J♠ 10♠ 9♠ 7♠ 5♠
+-------+
| Y |
4♠ | A B | K♠ 6♠ 3♠
| Z |
+-------+
[Q♠]
If dummy holds no entry card, B should not take the first trick.
[Q♠] J♠
x-------x
| Y |
| A B | A♠ 8♠ 5♠
| Z |
x-------x
B should pass both the queen and the knave. By passing the second
trick, if the dealer fails to overtake, or if the dealer does not
hold two re-entry cards, the suit cannot be made.
A♥
K♠ J♠ 9♠ 8♠ 7♠ 6♠
x-------x
| Y |
2♠ | A B | A♠ 5♠ 4♠
| Z |
x-------x
[Q♠]
Y has an entry card. B should refuse to win the trick, trusting that
Z has no other card to lead.
A♠ 10♠ 7♠
x-------x
| Y |
K♠ 6♠ 3♠ | A B |
| Z |
x-------x
[Q♠]
A should refuse to cover the honour. If he waits until the third
round, the suit is blocked. Z may have no re-entry card.
[Q♠] J♠
x-------x
| Y |
| A B | K♠ 6♠ 4♠
| Z |
x-------x
In this case, the honour should be covered. If Z
holds the ace, the suit is blocked.
A♠ J♠ 8♠ 6♠ 4♠
x-------x
| Y |
Q♠ 5♠ | A B |
| Z |
x-------x
[10♠]
A should cover the ten led. It may establish the king and nine in B’s
hands. If Y has no card of re-entry B can then hold up.
[K♠]
x-------x
| Y |
| A B | A♠ 7♠ 5♠
| Z |
x-------x
As Y has no other card to lead, B should refuse to part with the ace.
Z cannot make the suit without two re-entry cards.
TAKING OUT RE-ENTRY CARDS
If you hold the commanding card of the adversary’s suit, endeavour
to take out your opponent’s re-entry before the suit is cleared. It
is equally important that you take out this re-entry card if you
know that your partner has the command of the adversary’s suit. In
extreme cases do not hesitate to sacrifice a king or queen in order
to accomplish this purpose. When the dealer attempts to make a card
of re-entry for an established suit, hold up a higher card in order
to frustrate his scheme of play.
THE DISCARD
This part of the game merits much more consideration than a cursory
knowledge of Bridge would suggest. The ordinary Bridge player is
confused by the many difficulties attendant on discarding, and his
cards are apt to be injudiciously thrown away. It would greatly
simplify the discard if you were always to throw away your lowest
card or to follow some other hard-and-fast rule; but, unfortunately,
the discard is so affected by the particular situation and by the
previous play as to preclude the possibility of establishing such a
rule. When you advise the beginner to throw away a high card instead
of a two spot, the situation appears to him hopeless; he fails to
realise that at times high cards have little value, and, to obtain
the lead, honours and even smaller cards must be properly protected.
When opposed to the dealer, it should be your aim both to protect
your hand and to give your partner information. As the eldest hand,
your opening lead indicates strength or weakness; any subsequent
discard is simply the card that you can best spare, and is not
intended to convey any definite information. As the original
leader, it is important that you know your partner’s suit, and this
information he should convey to you by a recognised system of
discarding decided on before beginning the game. Thus the discard
from the strength or from weakness refers only to the first card
thrown away by the younger hand.
There are three methods of discarding used by Bridge players, each
having the same object--to protect the hand and to give information.
1st. Strength both with a trump and at “no-trump.”
2d. Strength with a trump and weakness at “no-trump.”
3d. Weakness both with a trump and at “no-trump.”
Some merit may be claimed for each; but there is a wide difference of
opinion regarding the relative values of these discards. In Whist, as
well as in Bridge, there has always been more or less discussion on
this point. It can, however, be stated that the foremost authorities
on Whist have uniformly agreed that with strength declared against
you, the best discard is from your strong suit.
THE DISCARD AGAINST A DECLARED TRUMP
The great majority of Bridge players use the strength discard against
a trump declaration, and there is little doubt that this is sound.
It is imperative that you protect honours in the weaker suits, for
rarely will your long suit be brought in against the dealer.
The claim made by those who use the weak discard against a trump
make is that it permits them to throw away a short suit, and thus
eventually to establish a “ruff.” When a player is discarding from
strength, this “ruff” can be obtained with equal facility by the
proper use of the reverse discard.
Without a doubt the weak discard should be used on a spade
declaration that has been doubled either by you or your partner. In
this case, trump strength is probably with you, not against you. The
same argument cannot be used, however, on a doubled heart, diamond,
or club, whereas spades may have been declared from weakness, the
other declarations indicate trump strength.
THE DISCARD AT “NO-TRUMP”
The writer has placed himself on record as being in favour of the
strength discard, and since doing so has seen nothing that would tend
to change his views on this subject.
A theory of good play may be so unfortunately worded as to convey a
mistaken impression, and it is amusing to hear the various methods
of discarding discussed by players of little experience; not long
since, a hand was published to illustrate the loss of one trick by
discarding strength, when an ace is first lost by bad play, and the
discard so palpably wrong as to insult the partner’s intelligence.
To those who have not taken the time to analyse hands thoroughly,
the discard of a card that may possibly make, naturally seems the
waste of a trick; but consider how seldom a suit, not led originally,
is brought in against a “no-trump” make; remember that you do not
expect to win on the adversary’s make, but only hope to minimise your
loss, and that often in trying to save all the cards of your long
suit, honours in the weaker suits are unguarded which, if properly
protected, would have won tricks.
An objection that is raised to discarding from weakness at
“no-trumps” is that one discard does not positively show your
strong suit. In many hands, to be sure, your partner can obtain the
information from the cards in dummy, but at times, when one suit has
been led and another discarded, your partner is left in doubt as to
the suit to lead, and a wrong guess may result in serious loss.
Again, the discard from weakness may betray your partner’s hand,
by giving information that will enable the dealer to finesse
successfully. The dealer is more likely to have strength in your
weak, than in your strong suit.
The discard from weakness is of no material help to your partner in
discarding, as you may hold a high honour in your weak suit, while
with the strength discard, your partner, when he is forced to protect
his hand, does not fear to unguard honours in your suit.
If you were to play a hundred deals of “no-trump” hands, making the
first discard from the weak suit, and then replay the hands making
the first discard from strength, the result would be overwhelmingly
in favour of the strength discard. It is impossible to make the first
discard from weakness uniformly without unguarding honours in the
adversaries’ suits, and only the novice attempts to do so.
To say that one should always make the discard from weakness or from
strength is wrong both in theory and in practise. No hard-and-fast
rule can be followed without loss. With confidence that an
intelligent partner will read your discards, you can allow common
sense and reason to dictate the occasions to deviate from the rule.
You should aim first, to protect your hand; second, to give your
partner information; and, third, to keep your long suit. In the
majority of hands, it is immaterial whether you discard from strength
or from weakness, but in those which show a difference, the strength
discard does not in any hand lose more than one trick, while the
loss occasioned by the discard from weakness varies from one to four
tricks in a hand.
If you use the strength discard and find it advisable in any
particular hand to throw away your weak suit, you can always do so by
using the reverse discard. This is also true when the weak discard
is used, but, unfortunately, in the latter case, two cards from your
strong suit must be thrown away.
No matter what system of discarding you may use, occasionally a
trick will be lost, but after an analysis of over ten thousand deals
the writer is of the firm opinion that the discard from strength at
“no-trump” will lose less than the discard from weakness.
HINTS ON DISCARDING
If three suits have been led or shown, do not attempt to discard from
strength. You question your partner’s intelligence. If your only
four-card suit contains but one honour, do not indicate strength
unless you are particularly desirous of having that suit led to you.
When you have no suit that you are anxious to show, discard from the
suit led originally by your partner, or even, when it is obviously
established, from the adversary’s suit. This implies that you have no
strength to indicate, but you are protecting your hand.
It is bad policy to discard all the cards of one suit, as it betrays
any strength your partner may hold.
As the younger hand, infer from your partner’s discards what suit he
is guarding.
When the dealer can lead through a king in your hand, try to keep it
twice guarded.
It would be unwise to discard from an established suit if you hold a
sure re-entry card; as all you require is the lead, the best discard
is from the suit containing the re-entry card.
If you hold a tenace or strength in a suit over the dummy hand, it
may be a better discard than your longest suit.
When your partner has shown a four or five-card suit, don’t look to
him for much further strength.
Protect all four-card suits even if they are but to the nine or
ten, and remember a jack or ten twice guarded will often block the
dealer’s suit.
Watch the dealer’s discards and protect the suit that he is saving.
THE REVERSE DISCARD
In discarding, the play of a high and then a lower card reverses
the original meaning of the discard. If you adopt the strength
discard, and wish to throw away your weak suit at “no-trump” do so by
discarding first a high and then a lower card. If you use the weak
discard and wish to protect your weak suits, discard first a high and
then a lower card from your strong suit.
The reverse discard may be used when it is shown that two discards
can be made.
DISCARDING BY THE DEALER
The discard offers fewer difficulties to the dealer whose two hands
reveal the suit that should be protected, and show the cards that can
be conveniently spared.
In a “no-trump” hand it is especially necessary to guard all weak
suits; not forgetting that a four-card suit to the ten will often
block the opponent’s lead.
The second suit that they will open is often shown by the adversary’s
discards; and this, too, will aid you to prepare a proper defence.
When you hold trump strength discard losing cards from one hand on
winning ones in the other.
At times it may be necessary to discard high cards to unblock a suit
and to protect honours in another suit.
In discarding endeavour to conceal both your weakness and your
strength; you may often mislead your opponents and tempt them to lead
to your strong suit.
THE DEALER’S PLAY
The dealer’s play of the twenty-six cards is undoubtedly the most
interesting that Bridge offers; the skilful management and keen
perception required to combine the two hands against adversaries
ready to take advantage of the slightest error, make this part of
the game correspondingly difficult. With no partner to mislead, the
dealer can use strategy to deceive the opponents, while he gains the
same information from each adversary’s play as if he were the partner
of both. His opportunities to draw inferences are almost innumerable,
and give him occasional openings to prepare clever pitfalls for the
unwary adversary.
The opening lead--Is it from a long suit or a short suit? What
honours are held by the original leader? What cards are placed by
the third hand play? These are all questions that must be premised
by a thorough knowledge of the correct leads and third hand play.
In addition, the dealer must be familiar with the most advantageous
play of the various combinations or cards, must locate honours by
his adversaries’ discards and arrange the lead accordingly; must
know how to unblock as well as how and where to make entry cards. A
knowledge of trump management--to know when to lead and when not to
lead trumps--is no small part of the dealer’s requirements.
A hand that is well and quietly played merits commendation, which
partner and opponents seldom hesitate to bestow.
COMBINING THE HANDS OF DEALER AND DUMMY
As dealer, whether you are playing a trump or a “no-trump”
declaration, take a mental stock of the cards you hold early in the
hand, and decide from which hand each combination should be led.
Although at times it may be impossible to arrange the lead, it may be
stated here that the advantages that accrue from the correct play of
most combinations of cards, are obtained by invariably leading a suit
from the weak to the strong hand; in most cases the high card from
the weak.
The four most important combinations and those that are held most
frequently are:
A Q J
A K J
A J 10
K J 10
ACE, QUEEN, JACK COMBINATION
Perhaps with no one of these combinations can you so often gain
tricks as by the correct play of ace queen jack.
These cards may be held in four different ways.
+------------------+-------------------+
| _In One Hand._ | _In the Other._ |
+------------------+-------------------+
| A Q J | x x x |
| A Q x | J x x |
| A J x | Q x x |
| A x x | Q J x |
+------------------+-------------------+
With this combination either in a trump or in a “no-trump” hand
endeavour to catch the adversary’s king by leading the highest card
from your weak hand toward the ace; if the king is not played second
in hand you can lose nothing by taking the finesse; for when it is
guarded in the fourth hand the king will win no matter how the cards
are played. The advantage of leading the high card is that, if you
retain the lead, you can again lead from the weak hand.
Better results will, of course, be obtained if you hold ace queen
jack ten, or even ace queen jack nine in the two hands; otherwise the
adversary, by covering the honour led, may eventually establish a ten
or nine against you.
If you hold ace, queen, and two or three small cards in one hand and
jack and small cards in the other, the best play of the combination
is to lead a low card up to the ace queen; if the finesse is
successful, the lead of the ace may capture a once-guarded king
without establishing a ten or nine for the adversaries. But if pitted
against weak players, on account of their well-known dislike of
sacrificing a high card, the lead of the jack toward the ace queen is
advisable.
The number of cards in the suit will often influence you in taking or
not taking the finesse. With eight cards or fewer in the two hands,
the finesse is practically obligatory. With nine cards in the two
hands, the finesse should usually be taken. With ten cards in the two
hands, it is largely a matter of luck. With ace queen and jack in one
hand and small cards in the other there is a slight percentage in
favour of the finesse. Otherwise try to gain information by leading
the highest card toward the ace, and if it is not covered, play the
ace on the chance of finding the king alone.
If you do not hold the jack it is a losing play to lead a queen
toward the ace. This is a common mistake and should be carefully
avoided.
With ace, queen, ten and nine in the two hands, it cannot be
considered altogether bad play to lead the queen toward the ace; but
if this is done it may be necessary to take a finesse on the second
round. The adversaries’ discards, however, will often show you how
this combination should be played.
ACE, KING, JACK COMBINATION
This combination can be held in four different ways:
+-----------------+-----------------+
| _In One Hand._ | _In the Other._ |
+-----------------+-----------------+
| A K J | x x x |
| A K x | J x x |
| A J x | K x x |
| K J x | A x x |
+-----------------+-----------------+
With the first arrangement of this combination the lead should come
from the weak hand and the jack should be played. In the second the
jack may be led from the weak hand toward the ace king; although
unless you also hold the ten, little can be gained by this play, for
if the adversary covers the jack with the queen, as he should, the
ten will be established against you. In the two remaining cases a low
card should be led up to the jack.
With each of these combinations, unless you hold nine cards or more
in the combined hands, the finesse should be taken.
With ace jack in one hand and the king in the other, or with king
jack in one hand and ace in the other, unless you also hold the
ten of the suit, do not lead the jack toward the ace; for if the
adversary covers the jack with the queen, the ten is established
against you.
If you hold nine cards in the two hands it is not sound play to
finesse; with but four cards against you the queen will probably fall
in two rounds of the suit.
ACE, JACK, TEN COMBINATION
These cards may be held in four different ways:
+------------------+------------------+
| _In One Hand._ | _In the Other._ |
+------------------+------------------+
| A J 10 | x x x |
| A J x | 10 x x |
| A 10 x | J x x |
| A x x | J 10 x |
+------------------+------------------+
As there are two high cards against this combination, you must take
a double finesse. The play is similar to that given for the previous
combinations. Lead the high card from the weak hand, and, unless it
is covered, pass the trick; then wait until the suit can again be led
from the weak hand, and take a second finesse.
KING, JACK, TEN COMBINATION
There are three ways in which these cards may be held:
+------------------+-----------------+
| _In One Hand._ | _In the Other._ |
+------------------+-----------------+
| K J 10 | x x x |
| K J x | 10 x x |
| K x x | J 10 x |
+------------------+-----------------+
In each of these cases the play is practically the same; lead the
highest card from the weak hand and finesse. If by the finesse you
succeed in forcing the ace, wait until the suit can be led through
the queen.
If you hold this combination with nine or more cards of the suit, it
is often difficult to determine whether a finesse should or should
not be taken; if you play the king and it wins the first trick, you
may drop both ace and queen on the next lead.
MISCELLANEOUS COMBINATIONS
If you hold a sequence of three high cards in the combined hands,
while, of course, it is better form to lead from the weak hand,
it makes but little difference from which hand the suit is led.
Therefore, if you cannot conveniently place the lead, do not hesitate
to lead from the strong hand. Should you, however, hold a sequence
of two high cards in one hand with small cards in the other, for
instance:
+------------------+-------------------+
| _In One Hand._ | _In the Other._ |
+------------------+-------------------+
| K Q x | x x x |
| Q J x | x x x |
+------------------+-------------------+
it is always advisable to lead from the weak hand. Should the queen
win in the first combination, wait until you can again lead the suit
from the weak hand.
COMBINATIONS TO BE AVOIDED.
+------------------+-----------------+
| _In One Hand._ | _In the Other._ |
+------------------+-----------------+
| Q x x | A x x |
| J x x | A x x |
| Q x x | K x x |
| J x x | K x x |
| J x x | Q x x |
| K x x | x x x |
+------------------+-----------------+
A suit containing a single honour or one with a single honour in
each hand should be avoided. There is a difference of one or two
tricks in each of these combinations dependent on whether you or the
adversaries open the suit. When it is an advantage to have a suit
led by the opponents, endeavour, by throwing the lead, to force your
adversaries to lead the suit to you.
ARRANGING THE LEAD
Assuming that you understand how to play the various combinations of
cards, it becomes necessary, as soon as the opening lead has been
made, to plan a well-defined scheme of play.
Do not hesitate to pause a few moments to study thoroughly the two
hands, so that you can play quickly and intelligently. Be assured
that when you play a hand with a vague, uncertain feeling, you are
playing it badly. Many a hand is ruined by careless and hasty play to
the first trick.
In a “no-trump hand” this first trick is often of great importance.
Before you touch a card in the dummy decide for which suit you wish
to play, from which hand it should be led, and in which hand you need
an entry card.
In mapping out your play of a trump hand, try first to infer whether
the lead is from a long or a short suit; then decide whether or not
you should lead trumps, and if so, from which hand you should lead
them; and looking ahead still further, place an advantageous lead for
your long suit.
FINESSING
It has already been stated that with certain combinations in the
two hands, you should finesse, and that you can do so, unless you
hold great length in the suit with but small chance of loss. When a
finesse goes against you, it is due to an unfortunate distribution
of the cards and not, as one is apt to feel, to your own bad play.
However, the subject of finessing, in common with all other parts of
Bridge, requires a knowledge of the particular situation, and there
are many occasions when it is unwise to finesse.
It would be bad play to finesse deeply in trumps when it is evident
that your adversaries can “ruff” a suit, or that a “cross-ruff” is
imminent. It may be important that you have two, or even three
rounds of trumps. The finesse may gain one trick, whereas if it goes
against you, and the adversaries “ruff” your good cards, you may lose
several tricks.
In a “no-trumper,” if your opponent has an established suit, be
careful not to take a finesse, which, if it loses, will afford the
adversary an opportunity to make his established suit. It is much
better play to finesse against this player, especially if you know
that the other adversary has no card of his partner’s suit.
As dealer, you should be careful about taking a finesse, which, if
it loses, will block your suit, and allow your adversary to take out
your card of re-entry.
If you hold a guarded honour in the suit originally led by the
adversary, do not take a finesse, which, if it loses, will allow your
right-hand adversary to lead through this honour. The entire suit may
be made against you.
If you hold the king of a suit once or twice guarded in one hand, and
only small cards of that suit in the other, do not take a finesse,
which may allow the adversary to lead through this king.
If you have a strong hand and a weak dummy you would, of course,
prefer that the lead come up to you. Therefore, take your finesse, so
that if it loses, you will have, at least, this advantage.
With ace, king, and jack in one suit, and especially if these cards
are all in one hand, it is often good play to take one round of the
suit before attempting a finesse. The fall of the cards may help you
to locate the queen.
When you hold eight cards to the ace, king, and jack in the two
hands, the adversary’s queen is frequently unguarded. Finessing
then becomes a question of the score and of the possible loss that
an unsuccessful finesse would entail. You should risk the loss of a
trick in order to win the game, provided the loss of a trick does not
lose the game. If the game cannot be won, and it is merely a question
of winning or not winning the odd trick, do not finesse. That one
trick may prevent the adversaries from winning the game on the next
deal.
THE FINESSE OBLIGATORY
This is an arbitrary finesse, which is often forced upon you, when,
unless the cards of a suit are in a certain position, there is no
possibility of winning. Perhaps the best way of defining the finesse
obligatory is to give an example showing the position as it most
frequently occurs:
K♠ 7♠ 3♠
x-------x
| Y |
| A B |
| Z |
x-------x
Q♠ 9♠ 8♠ 6♠ 5♠
“Z” is the dealer, and leads a low card to the king in dummy, which
wins the first trick. The suit is returned, the ace being marked with
“A.” If “A” holds both ace and knave, no matter how the dealer plays,
“A” must win two tricks. Unless the knave is in “B’s” hand, and “A”
holds the singleton ace, the adversary must win two tricks. The
dealer should, therefore, play his lowest card, not the queen.
WATCHING THE DISCARDS IN ORDER TO LOCATE FINESSES
The amount of information to be gained from the adversary’s discards
is apt to be underestimated. Careful notice of the discards,
particularly in a “no-trump” hand, will often help you to locate
honours and to determine where a finesse should be taken; moreover,
it will simplify the end play, show you chances to throw the lead,
and give you opportunities to force the opponents to lead up to your
hand.
If the king of your long suit is against you and on the wrong side,
it will probably make, but this is not true of the queen. If you hold
in the two hands ace king, jack or ace king jack, ten of a suit,
unless you can place the queen, you are compelled to guess where to
take the finesse. If, however, you can advantageously lead another
suit try to force the adversaries to discard, one will undoubtedly
protect the queen of your suit, and the other, not knowing perhaps
that you are trying to gain information, will probably discard from
his weak suit; the discard thus enabling you to finesse successfully.
This information can often be similarly obtained in a trump hand by
leading an extra round of trumps. If, however, you are forced to lead
the suit without any knowledge of the situation, lead a card which
will tempt your adversary to cover; for instance, holding ace x x in
dummy with king jack ten in your own hand, lead the jack. If the jack
is not covered, it is often good play to take the first trick with
the ace, and, on returning the lead, to play the ten. As the jack was
not covered you infer that the queen is held by the other adversary.
If you have no finesse in your suit, it often pays to give the
adversaries a chance to make a finesse possible for you. For
instance, with A x x in dummy and K 10 9 in your own hand, unless
both queen and jack are unguarded, or unless you can tempt them to
play badly, the adversaries must make one trick in the suit. The play
is to lead the ten, for if it is covered, either with jack or queen,
you have the advantage of a finesse on your return of the suit.
SECOND HAND PLAYS
Showing the play of the different combinations between dealer and
dummy. In each case a small card is led and the second hand is the
hand that is led through:
+--------------+---------------+------------------------+
| _2d Hand._ | _4th Hand._ | _Play._ |
+--------------+---------------+------------------------+
| A K x | J x x | K, or Low |
| A K x | 10 x x | K (T) Low (NT) |
| A Q x | J x x | Low |
| A Q x | 10 x x | Low |
| A Q x | x x x | Queen (T) Low (NT) |
| A J x | Q x x | Low |
| A 10 x | J x x | Low |
| A x x | Q x x | Low |
| K Q x | x x x | Queen |
| K J x | x x x | Low |
| K J | x x x | Jack (T) King (NT) |
| K J | A x x | Jack |
| K J x | 10 x x | Low |
| K 10 x | J x x | Low |
| K x x | Q x | Low |
| K x | x x | Low (T) King (NT) |
| K x | J x x | Low |
| K x | Q x x | Low (T) King (NT) |
| K x | Q 10 x | Low |
| K x | A 10 x | Low |
| K x | A J x | Low |
| Q J x | x x x | Jack |
| Q J x | A x x | Jack |
| Q 10 x | A x x | Low |
| Q x x | K x x | Low |
| Q x x | x x x | Low |
| Q x | A x x | Queen |
| Q x | A 10 x | Low |
| Q x | A J x | Low |
| Q x | K x x | Low (T) Queen (NT) |
+--------------+---------------+------------------------+
(T) with a declared trump.
(NT) at no trump.
+--------------+---------------+------------------------+
| _2d Hand._ | _4th Hand._ | _Play._ |
+--------------+---------------+------------------------+
| A K x | J x x | K, or Low |
| Q x | J x x | Low |
| Q x | x x x | Queen |
| J 10 x | A K x | Ten |
| J 10 x | A x x | Ten |
| J x | A K x | Jack |
| J x | A Q x | Low |
| 10 x | A K x | Ten |
| 10 x | A Q x | Ten |
| 10 x | A J x | Low |
+--------------+---------------+------------------------+
MANAGEMENT OF TRUMPS BY THE DEALER
The surest test of a player’s skill is the ability he displays in
handling trumps. Habits that are wrong in theory are frequently
formed, and errors in judgment are common in the trump management.
The difficulties are as numerous as the combinations are varied. Only
general rules can be given, and the constantly changing situations
must be met by the skill and originality of the player.
WHEN TO LEAD TRUMPS
One of the first points for the dealer’s consideration is the
advisability of the trump lead. As he usually holds the balance of
trump strength in the combined hands, generally speaking the dealer
should lead trumps.
A common excuse for avoiding the trump lead is that the hands contain
no long suit; if this is true, why not try to establish your trump
suit? If you hold five trumps in one hand, the chances are that
three rounds will leave you with two long trumps and the adversaries
powerless to “ruff” any high card you may hold; by refusing to lead
trumps you may enable the opponents to “overruff” your strong
hand and make their trumps separately. It may be to your advantage to
have the other suits led by the adversaries and your trump lead will
often force them to do this.
At times you will have the choice of two ways of playing the hand.
One, to trump losing cards in your weak hand; the other to exhaust
trumps and discard your losing cards on the commanding cards of a
long suit. If your trumps are strong and your long suit established,
the trump lead is preferable. With an established suit and high
trumps against you, postpone the trump lead until you have allowed
your weak hand to “ruff” the losing cards.
However, with five trumps in the strong and four in the weak hand,
as you will probably exhaust trumps in two rounds, it is safer to
lead the trumps first. You can then “ruff” in your weak hand without
danger of being “overruffed.”
If you hold seven or more trumps in the combined hands, do not make
the fact that your strong hand has been forced an excuse for not
leading trumps. If you are protected in the adversaries’ suit and
can lead the trumps advantageously from the weak to the strong hand,
always lead them.
To lead trumps with this number is the rule, not the exception, but
occasionally when they cannot be led from the weak hand it is better
to make as many trumps as possible by “ruffing.”
WHEN NOT TO LEAD TRUMPS
Perhaps the simplest rule that can be given is, do not lead trumps
when there is a short side suit in the weak trump hand. You will
obviously gain by trumping losing cards in the weak hand.
As it often requires two rounds to exhaust the short suit in the weak
hand, try not to show your intention too clearly, or the adversaries
will circumvent your scheme of “ruffing” by a trump lead. Remember,
also, that you cannot obtain the “ruff” unless you hold, or can make,
an entry card in your strong hand.
When your combined hands contain fewer than seven trumps, the balance
of strength is with the adversaries, and, in this case, unless your
trumps or side suits are exceptionally strong, avoid the trump lead.
With but six trumps and an established suit against you, it would
be dangerous to lead trumps. One adversary must hold at least four
trumps, and it may be that all the remaining trumps are in one hand.
The trump lead would only help the adversaries to make their suit.
When the commanding trump is against you, endeavour to discard your
losing suit cards from one hand on winning ones in the other before
you give up the lead.
UNBLOCKING THE TRUMP SUIT
As dealer, be careful to lead your trumps in such a manner that you
will not find it impossible to continue the lead. The simplest method
of unblocking the trump suit is to lead or play the high trumps from
the shorter hand.
Occasionally to avoid blocking the suit, it will be necessary to
“ruff” with a high instead of a lower trump. For instance, with ace
and ten of trumps in dummy and king, queen, jack, nine and eight in
your own hand, if you “ruff” with dummy’s ten, you will block the
trump suit; even a temporary discontinuance of the trump lead may
result in loss.
When you lead the queen toward the ace, holding the ace, jack, ten,
nine, seven in one hand and queen, eight, four in the other, you must
provide for the possible necessity for leading three times through
the king by playing the nine of trumps on the queen lead. A careless
play of the seven may make it impossible to capture the adversary’s
king.
NOT FORCING YOUR STRONG TRUMP HAND
The greatest weakness and the most expensive fault in the beginner’s
game is his predilection for trumping in the strong trump hand. When
trumps are hopelessly against you, it may be necessary to make what
you can by ruffing, but with the advantage of the make, you are
seldom compelled to play a defensive game. When you needlessly force
your strong hand to trump, you reduce your power to exhaust the
adversaries’ trumps, to establish your suit, and to be left with the
last trump--which is, par excellence, the dealer’s game.
To trump in the weak hand is always advisable, nor can any objection
be raised to a “cross-ruff,” but force your strong hand only as a
last resource.
If you hold the losing one of two remaining trumps, try to force
the winning trump from the adversary’s hand; to force your own hand
instead will materially prejudice your chance of making a suit.
LEADING TRUMPS TO PREVENT A RUFF
When it is apparent that one adversary can “ruff” a suit, or when a
“cross-ruff” is imminent, it is important that you guard against such
a contingency by at least two rounds of trumps. Of course, if you
hold the commanding trump, this presents no difficulties; but, when
the winning trump is with the adversary, you should try to tempt him
to hold it up second in hand by refraining from a high card lead. For
instance, with queen and seven of trumps in one hand and king jack
ten nine eight in the other, lead the seven instead of the queen.
If your trumps are in sequence you can often obtain two rounds by
leading the lowest of your sequence rather than the highest card.
WHEN TO DRAW THE REMAINING TRUMPS
When you are left with but one remaining trump, and that the
commanding one, usually lead it to draw the losing trumps.
When there are but two other remaining trumps, trust that your trump
lead will find them divided. If you have reason to know that both are
in one hand, one must of course make; but lead the commanding trump,
so that _but_ one _can_ make.
With the best trump in your hand and one against you, it is only in
critical situations that you should refrain from drawing the losing
trump. For instance, when the adversaries hold an established suit
and the commanding card of your suit, it is a better play to clear
your suit and then refuse a force until the adversary who holds the
remaining trump cannot lead his partner’s suit. Take care, however,
to accept the force at the right time, for a delay in trumping may
allow the adversary to discard a losing card of your suit.
DISCONTINUING THE LEAD OF TRUMPS
There are many positions difficult to define when it is advisable to
discontinue the trump lead. An obvious case is when the commanding
trump is against you and the lead would entail your loss of two
trumps for one card, which the adversary must make in any case. The
best play is to force the adversary to “ruff” with the high trump,
for then your trumps may make separately.
When you hold but two trumps with two against you, be careful about
taking the third round of trumps when your adversaries hold an
established suit; if the trumps are divided no doubt the lead will
save a trick; but you risk finding both trumps in one hand, in which
case the adversary will draw or force your remaining trump and make
his suit. The trump lead cannot win more than one trick and it may
lose several.
With three remaining trumps, if your suit is established, the third
round should always be taken. Should you find after one or two rounds
that the trumps are banked in one hand against you, it is, as a rule,
better to force the opponent’s hand than to continue the trump lead.
This gives you the long trump, which is no inconsiderable advantage.
The adversaries’ high trumps are sometimes placed after one round, so
that it may be advisable to discontinue the trump lead temporarily
until you can lead to better advantage from the weaker hand.
When you hold the commanding card of each side suit and do not wish
the lead of your long suit to be interrupted, it is good play to
lead the losing trump. If, however, you are not in a position to
win any card the adversary may lead, it is better play to force the
commanding trump.
WHEN TO TRUMP
If the adversary attempts to force your strong hand, it is usually
advisable to accept the force. Only in rare cases does it pay to
allow the opponent to continue the lead of his established suit.
At times you can afford to give the adversary one trick, knowing
that, on the next lead, your weak hand can take the “ruff.”
With two trumps against you it is often good play to discard rather
than to “ruff” with the commanding trump. But to gain by your play,
you should hold a certain entry card in the suit that the adversary
must lead.
With one trump against you, do not use your one remaining trump until
the leader’s partner is exhausted in the leader’s suit.
If the adversary leads a suit which you can trump in either hand, the
“ruff” should invariably be taken in the weak hand, and a discard
made in the strong one.
You are sometimes in a position to know that if you trump, your
adversary will overtrump. When the best card is led, it is usually
good play to trump immediately and if possible with a card which will
not unguard an honour in your own hand, but will force a high card
from the opponent. If a suit is led, of which you hold the commanding
card in the opposite hand, your best defence is to take a discard,
which will prevent the adversary from making a high card later in
the hand. If you can make no advantageous discard, your best play
is to trump, especially if the trumps in your combined hands are in
sequence, for, if the adversary wins the trick, his high trump will
probably make in any case.
OVERTRUMPING
It is only the experienced player who can resist the temptation to
overtrump. The beginner jumps at every trick without realising that
he can often gain by waiting. Overtrump when your hand is weak and
your trumps low; but, if overtrumping takes out your only high card
in the trump suit, especially if it is the commanding trump, it is
nearly always better to discard. Your winning trump is bound to make,
and it is better play to throw away a suit that you can ruff later
with one of your small trumps.
Frequently by overtrumping you make it easy for the adversary to
draw your remaining trumps, which, had you not weakened your hand,
he would be powerless to do. For instance, where you hold the best
and the fourth best trump, with the second and third best in your
adversary’s hand, should you overtrump, your adversary will, of
course, be in a position to catch your smaller trump, while by
refusing the trick you retain the extra trump and are enabled to draw
the adversary’s last trump.
RE-ENTRY CARDS
It is of little use to establish a suit unless it is possible to get
the lead in the hand that contains it; therefore, the reservation
of a re-entry card in the hand that has the long suit is of great
importance. A preferable re-entry is, of course, the last trump or
trumps.
Arranging the trump lead so that the last round will be taken in the
desired hand is often a necessary precaution.
After the adversaries’ trumps are exhausted, you may be compelled to
place the lead in the opposite hand by an extra round of trumps, and
often it is necessary to trump with a high card, saving the low trump
to lead to the opposite hand.
It not infrequently happens that in order to get the lead in the
opposite hand, you are forced to trump your own commanding card.
FORCING DISCARDS
Should you find as dealer that you have a los
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