The Scientific Tourist through Ireland
by Thomas Walford · English · Gutenberg #48757 · 528,487 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: The Scientific Tourist through Ireland
Author: Thomas Walford
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Language: English
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SCIENTIFIC TOURIST THROUGH IRELAND ***
[Illustration:
_5 6 4 3 2 1_
_C. Warren sculp._
_Antiquities in Ireland._]
THE
_Scientific
TOURIST_
THROUGH
IRELAND,
In which the Traveller is directed to the principal objects
_OF_
Antiquity, Art, Science & The Picturesque,
By
_An Irish Gentleman_,
Aided with the communications of Friends.
[Illustration:
_H. Warren sculp._ _Giants Causeway, County of Antrim._
]
LONDON,
PRINTED FOR JOHN BOOTH, DUKE-STREET, PORTLAND PLACE,
1818.
THE SCIENTIFIC
TOURIST
THROUGH
Ireland:
BY WHICH
THE TRAVELLER IS DIRECTED TO
THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS
OF ANTIQUITY, ART, SCIENCE, AND
THE PICTURESQUE;
Arranged by Counties.
TO WHICH IS ADDED
AN INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF THE ANTIQUITIES
OF IRELAND, &c.
BY AN IRISH GENTLEMAN,
AIDED BY
THE COMMUNICATIONS OF SEVERAL FRIENDS.
_Being a Sequel to "The Scientific Tourist through England,
Wales, and Scotland," by T. Walford, Esq._
London:
PRINTED FOR J. BOOTH, DUKE-STREET,
PORTLAND PLACE.
1818.
_This day is published in Two Volumes, Price_ 12_s._,
_Maps coloured_ 14_s._
(Uniformly printed with this Work)
THE SCIENTIFIC TOURIST
THROUGH
England, Wales, and Scotland:
BY T. WALFORD, ESQ. F.A.S. F.L.S.
CONTENTS.
_Page_
Introduction 1
Antiquities 8
Druidical Monuments 9
Cromlechs _ib._
Cairns 10
Ogham Inscriptions _ib._
Ancient Temples _ib._
Caves 11
Round Towers _ib._
Raths 14
Religious Antiquities 16
Churches, Cells, Hermitages,
and Crosses _ib._
Castles 18
Mineralogy 19
Moss Earth 20
Basaltes 21
Granite _ib._
Temperature 22
Travelling 23
Topographical Division
into Provinces, Baronies,
Parishes, and Acres 25
Ecclesiastical Division;
Dioceses, Parishes, and
Churches 27
Legal Division 28
Comparative Height of
Mountains 30
List of Round Towers, with
their Measurements 31
Glossary 34
Value of English and Irish
Currency 35
Description of Frontispiece
and Direction for
Plates 36
COUNTIES, viz.
Antrim.
Armagh.
Carlow.
Cavan.
Clare.
Cork.
Donnegal.
Down.
Dublin.
Eastmeath.
Fermanagh.
Galway.
Kerry.
Kildare.
Kilkenny.
King's County.
Leitrim.
Limerick.
Londonderry.
Longford.
Louth.
Mayo.
Meath; _see_ Eastmeath.
Monaghan.
Queen's County.
Roscommon.
Sligo.
Tipperary.
Tyrone.
Waterford.
Westmeath.
Wexford.
Wicklow.
Iters by various Persons.
Routes of Mail Coaches.
Index.
THIS HUMBLE ATTEMPT TO FACILITATE AND FAMILIARIZE
A JUST KNOWLEDGE OF THE VALUE AND BEAUTIES OF
THE KINGDOM OF IRELAND
HAVING BEEN MOST RESPECTFULLY PRESENTED,
IS NOW ON ITS PUBLICATION
WITH PERMISSION
INSCRIBED AND DEDICATED,
WITH
EVERY POSSIBLE SENSE OF THE OBLIGATION AND CONDESCENSION,
TO HIS IMPERIAL HIGHNESS
THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL OF RUSSIA:
WHOSE VISIT TO THIS INTERESTING ISLAND
AND IMPORTANT ARM OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE
HAS CONFERRED AN HONOUR
WHICH CAN NEVER BE ERASED FROM THE RECOLLECTION OF
THE IRISH NATION.
August 31, 1818.
IRELAND.
INTRODUCTION.
This interesting country becoming every day more and more the subject
of inquiry and personal investigation, an HIBERNIAN TOURIST'S GUIDE
consequently forms a necessary adjunct to our original plan. In
prosecuting this design, our object is, by method and selection, to
enable even the casual six-weeks visitant to explore readily the most
important and curious specimens of nature and art, and that without
subjecting him to those travelling inconveniences which it has been too
much the fashion to complain of. Whilst travelling, at all times and
in all countries, the tourist must learn to suffer petty vexations,
privations, and delays; but a very amusing ramble may be executed in
Ireland, without more of these than the usual share. The MEANS OF
CONVEYANCE are now varied, extensive, rapid, and generally convenient;
not only from the capital in all directions, but also by means of
provincial coaches diverging from all the principal points; whilst good
roads and improving inns give facility and comfort to those who travel
with their own horses and carriages. In some places also, the INLAND
NAVIGATION affords a change of scenery and of general amusement to the
_independent_ traveller.
IRELAND, being only about 300 miles in length, and 200 in breadth,
containing 30,370 sq. m.[1], does not require a long period to traverse
its most important routes. Its CLIMATE is good, with a mean temperature
from 48 to 52; its face mostly level, but with extensive ranges of
mountainous tracts and rocky soil. It contains romantic LAKES, both
fresh and salt, viz. _Neagh_, _Erne_, _Killarney_, _Swilly_, _Foyle_,
_Corrib_, &c. &c.; also many majestic RIVERS, _Shannon_, _Liffy_,
_Boyne_, _Blackwater_, _Suir_, _Barrow_, _Lagan_, &c. Its MOUNTAINOUS
TRACTS are principally in Donnegal and Tyrone in the north, with part of
Antrim; also the Mourne Mountains in Down; the mountains of Wicklow;
in Kerry, and the s.w.; together with the extensive ranges to the
west of the Shannon. The BOGS are extensive, occupying many of the
mountains, indeed often undulating in hill and dale, particularly in
Donnegal; whilst both they and the dry heaths are covered with wild
myrtles, sedgy grass, rushes, _saggons_, or iris, orchis, wild rockets,
&c. Of its FORESTS few remain, being now sunk under the turf-bogs or
peat mosses; yet of minor BOTANY there is a great field for examination
in the Ericæ, numerous alpine plants, and wild flowers on the heaths,
bogs, and rocky fastnesses. Its MINERALOGY is very varied, from the
gold mines of Wicklow, down to the silver mines of the same county,
those of copper at Cronbane, with marble, coal, slate; whilst its
MINERAL SPRINGS, vitriolic, alkaline, saline, sulphureous, &c. offer
frequent opportunities of analysis to the man of science.
[1] Dr. Beaufort.
The importance of any plan which will tempt Englishmen of fortune,
especially the members of the legislative body, to visit Ireland,
cannot be more clearly expressed than in Mr. Wakefield's introduction
to his work on that country, where he observes, that a knowledge of
the natural situation, of the political institutions, and of the local
advantages even of a foreign nation, form an object of considerable
magnitude, and must to an inquiring and enlightened mind be a source of
no small gratification; but to become acquainted with these relations,
as they respect the great divisions of the empire of which we are
ourselves subjects, is of much greater importance.
It is impossible to tread the green sod of _Erin_, without a
considerable portion of antiquarian enthusiasm,--at least not to
traverse her wilds, without a portion of that spirit, even though we
may be tempted to deny that extreme antiquity of record drawn from the
earliest periods, and claimed by the _Old Irish_ in the indulgence of
their national vanity. But the true enthusiast requires not always
absolute historical proof to justify his feelings; and it is well
that he does not; for then many of his aërial pictures must fade from
existence; and the sober truth certainly is, as the elaborate Leland
has expressed himself, that it cannot be denied that no literary
monuments, to confirm tradition, have yet been discovered in Ireland
earlier than the introduction of Christianity into that country; and
that the evidence of any transactions previous to that period, rests
entirely on the credit of Christian writers, and their collections
from old poets, or their transcripts of records deemed to have been
made in times of paganism. It seems indeed, as he adds, unreasonable
to expect that any other domestic evidence of Irish antiquity should
subsist at this day; but from these the antiquary forms a regular
history of a long succession of kings and of romantic events from the
earlier ages of the world. Still do these details impart considerable
interest to the scenes where they are supposed to have been acted; and
from the poetical annals that furnish the catalogue of monarchs, we
have a lively picture of manners, most certainly of great antiquity,
however low we reduce the scale of chronology, and highly worthy of
attention, even though we smile at the tales connected with them,
with a most profuse intermixture of giants, necromancers, obscure
allegories, and extravagant fables. In those annals, we have an
animated picture of a brave people, driven from their native land in
search of new settlements, establishing themselves by their valour
in a fair and fertile island; the chieftains parcelling out lands
to their attendants, and the whole collection of adventurers, from
the moment of their peaceful establishment, devising means to give
stability to their acquisitions. As a bond of unity to the whole,
they elect a monarch; but preserve their own individual sovereignty
in their domains, forming a complete feudal system, and filling the
land with little courts where politeness and chivalry, attended by
poetry and romance, went hand in hand. Such is the sketch which
arises from Leland's masterly delineation; who adds, that in this
state of things a robust frame of body, a vehemence of passion, an
elevated imagination, were the characteristics of the people; whilst
noble instances of valour, generous effusions of benevolence, ardent
resentments, desperate and vindictive outrages, abound in their annals.
From hence too it is that scarcely a romantic dell or simple green
knoll exists without its traditionary tale; sometimes stained with
blood, but as often enlivened by love--for to verse and music they were
particularly addicted. Hence arose that peculiar turn of character by
which those who are possessed of any superior degree of knowledge, they
who operate on their fancies and passions by the liveliest strains of
poetry, have long been held in extraordinary veneration; and hence,
even at the present day, the ministers of their religion are accounted
more than human. The effects of those early events may indeed still be
traced by the modern tourist; and even the historian of cotemporary
transactions is obliged to coincide with the elegant Littleton when he
observes, that the songs of the bard had usually more power to incite
and inflame, than the music of the harp to soften or mitigate the
ferocity of the chief; so that even this recreation, which seems to
indicate something gentle and approaching to politeness in the temper
of the Irish, contributed to keep up that turbulent spirit, averse to
order and peace, which no prince or legislator that their country ever
produced, had sufficient skill to control. But still, from the remnants
of these ancient customs will the modern tourist derive considerable
advantages, and from none more than their proverbial hospitality, if he
himself has sense enough to keep it within bounds of propriety. Of this
hospitality much arises from the natural temper of the people; much
from the natural curiosity connected with the arrival of a stranger in
a district where intercourse is unfrequent; and some portion perhaps
derivable from ancient custom; for, as Leland observes, hospitality
was not only a principal virtue amongst these rude people, but was
even enjoined by law; and as neither lords nor tenants were bound to
each other, as the whole tribe might migrate to some more favourable
district, the ancient _Brehon_ laws expressly stipulate that no rath
shall break up suddenly, lest the traveller should be disappointed of
his expected reception. But neither the duties to be received by the
lord, nor the entertainment he was to expect from his inferiors, were
determined by his arbitrary will and pleasure. They were proportioned
to the benefits received from him--nay, even the lowest of the people
claimed reception and refreshment by an almost perfect right; and
so ineffectual is the flux of many centuries to efface the ancient
manners of a people, that at this day the wandering beggar enters the
house of a farmer or gentleman with as much ease and freedom as an
inmate. From this strict adherence to old customs, it arose that even
on the introduction of Christianity, many of the Pagan and Druidical
ceremonies of religion, interwoven with secular ordinances, were
preserved throughout the island. Indeed, as the author already quoted
very justly affirms, the first Christian missionaries seem to have
industriously avoided all unnecessary violence to the ancient manners
of their converts: favouring and protecting their poets; avoiding
all persecution towards the remains of the Druidical order; and even
whilst thundering the divine vengeance against the worshippers of the
sun, moon, stars, and wind, yet exercising indulgence towards many
remains of Pagan superstition. In consequence of this, the inquisitive
tourist will find many vestiges of those superstitions even in the most
enlightened parts of the kingdom, where their origin is unknown or
forgotten; and they are complied with in conformity to general custom,
or prompted by the association of early ideas and prejudices. Of these
the most conspicuous are the fires still lighted up at particular
times, remnants of the worship of Baal or Apollo; the collecting oaken
sprigs in May, a Druidical rite; and many others, which cannot fail to
interest the observer.
As the inquisitive traveller will doubtless make statistical
observations in his progress through the country, the following
quotation from Mr. Wakefield's multifarious and very intelligent work
may form the basis of a series of reasoning highly deserving the
attention of the politician. Speaking of the county of Louth, vol.
2. p. 616, he says--"This county has two large towns, one of which,
Drogheda, is of considerable extent, but its inhabitants are remarkably
poor. To those who have compared this place with Belfast, where the
population is nearly the same, the difference must be very striking;
and nothing can more clearly evince the superior condition of the
Protestants over that of the Catholics, there being as many Protestants
in Belfast as there are Catholics in Drogheda. The humbler classes of
the Protestants are ashamed to be seen dirty, or with bad clothes; but,
being so much outnumbered, they in consequence find very little society
amongst persons of their own faith, and have a stronger propensity
to emigrate."--This pictorial contrast of two towns is, in fact,
but a picture of the whole island. Let the tourist then examine the
Protestant and Catholic districts with impartiality--let him closely
examine from what it is that the Catholics require to be _emancipated_!
We do not anticipate--we are of no party; but the inquiry is of
consequence and deserves attention, especially at a moment when the
question of Emancipation is likely again to become a subject of
parliamentary and public discussion.
To do justice to that subject requires facts, and not mere abstract
reasoning. It cannot be the wish of any liberal Protestant to retain
the Roman Catholics under undue subjection; but liberality has its
bounds; and though a misplaced philanthropy may render us careless
respecting our own individual rights, yet it must be remembered that it
cannot justify us in yielding up the rights and the security of others.
As far as _Catholic Emancipation_, as it is called, is consistent with
_Protestant Security_, so far it is not only right but just and prudent
to concede; but before _Protestant Ascendancy_ is given up, let us be
certain, from an accurate investigation of facts, that _Protestant
Security_ will remain inviolate. Let us examine the history of past
times; and also examine mankind at the present day, with a strict
reference to it. This cannot be done in a closet or editorial apartment
in the metropolis; he who would investigate surely, and therefore
safely, must visit the spot where, and the people by whom, these claims
are made.
Again, we say, that it is not our wish to anticipate; but facts may be
recorded. If the tourist ascertains that the Roman Catholic districts
of Ireland are in greater penury than those where Protestantism
predominates, he will not attribute that in the first instance to
Protestant ascendancy, until he has examined the facts before his eyes.
He will see that industry is the great agent in the one case; the want
of it, the great and immediate agent in the other. Here then is a point
for him from whence to start in his moral investigations; and he will
at once observe, that in the Protestant districts six days in each
week are dedicated to labour, and the sabbath dedicated to the offices
of religion; whilst in other districts half the week is passed in the
idleness or dissipation of holidays, and the sabbath neglected. It is
true that in the breasts of the Irish Catholics he will find a strong
sense of religion, agreeable to their modes of faith and ceremony;
but he will also find that those modes of faith and ceremony are
subversive of the spirit of industry, whose stream to be generally
useful must not be dammed up at particular points, and suffered
to run waste at others. But let not the writer of these sheets be
misunderstood. Though fully impressed with the truth and justice of the
foregoing observations, it is far from his wish to throw any obstacles
in the way of the Catholic Faith. That Faith is free and unshackled,
as far as regards God and man; if political restrictions still exist,
they exist upon an impression that to do them away must be injurious
to Protestantism. To adduce the reasons for that impression would be
beyond our limits, and beyond our plan; but until that impression is
proved to be groundless, unlimited concession must be withheld. The
true and liberal philanthropist will also inquire whether, under the
peculiar circumstances of their religion, the great body of the Irish
Catholics would absolutely be benefited by an accordance with the
claims set up. Until that be ascertained, he will pause; and though
he may deprecate any thing like coercion, he will still be careful to
avoid any thing like encouragement, until he is convinced that its
results will at least be harmless.
To form an accurate judgement on these points demands an Irish tour.
The conviction on his own mind which the editor has here hazarded,
without any wish to prejudge the case in the minds of others, is not
formed on slight grounds. An early acquaintance with that island, and
subsequent rambles over most parts of it, joined to actual observation
in many parts of Europe, and indeed in the four quarters of the globe,
have convinced him that wherever Protestantism exists, with some
very few exceptions, there are to be found cleanliness, comfort, and
industry:--the reverse of the picture, though he would be supported in
it by the unanimous assent of many continental travellers, he will not
attempt to draw. Let him who doubts, and who chooses to make the Irish
tour, examine these hints, and compare them with actual observation.
It is true wisdom to learn from experience and observation--it is
true candour to acknowledge error when facts judiciously examined
and liberally contrasted lead to truth; and the editor's wish will
be fully answered, if these expressed opinions, whether right or
wrong, shall prompt the minds of his readers to that judicious and
liberal examination. In either case the result must be beneficial to
the empire; and the notice here taken of the very interesting subject,
it is hoped, will neither be considered illiberal or misplaced. But
it is now time to enter into details of the more prominent objects of
curiosity to the tourist; and it must be acknowledged, with respect to
our sister island, that, in taking a general view of its
ANTIQUITIES,
we have not the same facility of correct chronological specification,
as in our general introduction to this work; for the antiquarian
disputes, still unsettled, claim different dates for many of the most
interesting objects. We may however premise, that the order in which
the island has been peopled and colonized is generally agreed upon to
commence with the CELTES, SCYTHI, and FIRBOLGS; then the PHŒNICIANS
and MILESIANS in the south; the ROMANS, perhaps in a small degree; the
SCOTS in the north; the DANES and OSTMEN; the ENGLISH invaders in the
time of Henry II., followed by the SCOTTISH and ENGLISH colonists of
James I., and during the civil wars.
It has even been supposed that the diversities of natural character,
at the present day, in some measure illustrate the generally
received chronological and topographical arrangement. Ledwich in his
introduction to _Grose's Antiquities_, considers the CELTES as the
primeval possessors of the country;--all under the system of Druidism,
living a sylvan life, and worshipping the Deity in oaken groves,
wherefore few memorials of them are left. In the north are to be
traced, from the earliest ages, the SCOTI; in the south, the FIRBOLGS,
then the MILESIANS, and also the PHŒNICIANS about two centuries
before Christ; there also, according to Ptolemy, were the MENAPII and
BRIGANTES; and the RHOBOGDII, DARNI, &c. in the north, of a later date
than the first SCOTI, or INDO-SCYTHI, agreeable to Vallancey's theory.
From these and other local circumstances connected with Ireland, there
are few antiquities of very ancient date, with the exception of rude
memorials, because nothing but wood was used in building until the 11th
or 12th century; for until then, stone was only employed in funeral
monuments, or _Cairns_, in _Cromlechs_, and sometimes in the _Barrows_,
_Raths_, and _Danish forts_; also in the _Round Towers_, if their
antiquity is so great as some writers suppose. Of the antiquities of
modern date, the greatest number consist of _Castles_, _Churches_, and
_Monasteries_, principally to be found within the limits of the ancient
English Pale. This is evident from what Sir John Davis asserts--"Yet,
which is strange to be related, they did never build any houses of
brick or stone, some few poor religious houses excepted, before the
reign of Henry II."
Of the earlier English antiquities, those consist of CATHEDRALS,
CHURCHES, and CASTLES; some few Saxon, (at Kilcullen, Co. Kildare, and
Disert, Co. Clare,) some Norman, but principally of later date.
DRUIDICAL MONUMENTS
are very numerous, particularly in some parts of the north. Dr.
Drummond, in the scientific notes to his interesting poem on the
Giant's Causeway, says that "numerous monuments of the Druidical
superstition are still to be seen in the County of Antrim." The
appearance of those agrees with the description in Mallet's _Northern
Antiquities_; and also with the quotation from Wormius, copied by
Ledwich,--"The structure of our altars is various; but generally a
tumulus is formed, on whose summit three great stones are erected, and
on them a fourth broader and more flat is laid, so that it exactly
appears like a rude huge table resting on three feet." We may add, in
respect to these
CROMLECHS,
That both in Ireland and in Scandinavia, their erection is vulgarly
ascribed to giants; an unerring mark, says Ledwich, of their Gothic
origin. Sir R. C. Hoare says that the construction of stone temples
and cromlechs has generally been attributed to the Druids, but without
any certainty of proof. He also hazards the conjecture, and with
great plausibility, that a temple like Stonehenge once existed on
the Curragh of Kildare (See Tour in Ireland, p. 274.) Coeval with
_Cromlechs_--perhaps--but absolutely so in the opinion of Ledwich, are
the
CAIRNS,
Rude heaps of stones, composed partly also of earth, forming immense
conical heaps, and evidently sepulchral. These are very numerous, and
are generally erected on the summits of hills; but, though some of them
may be Druidical, the greater part are of later date.
Sir R. C. Hoare considers the Irish Cairn or Carnedd to be of the same
origin as the Barrow or Tumulus in various parts of England.
Under the period now treated of we may also enumerate the sculptured
stones bearing
OGHAM INSCRIPTIONS,
which Vallancey describes as ancient Irish, or Indo-Scythian remains.
These are found in many parts of the island; one of the most curious of
which is at Tory-hill, Co. Kilkenny, inscribed to the God _Belus_ or
BAAL. They are very numerous in Co. Kerry. These and the ancient _Irish
Letters_ have given rise to more controversy than any other subject
connected with Hibernian antiquities. In Miss Plumptre's _Tour_, p.
327 et seq., the curious reader will find much information, with good
references to further analysis. Of the remains of the _Phœnician_ era,
we may perhaps specify the
ANCIENT TEMPLES,
one of which, the SHIP TEMPLE near Dundalk, is attributed by Vallancey
to that people, or else to the sea rovers, _Victi_, or _Picts_, who
paid divine honours to the form of a ship; but Governor Pownal supposed
it to be the work of the NANI, a northern or Scandinavian nation.
That the Phœnicians or Carthaginians must have visited Ireland, is
supported by Miss Plumptre upon the ground that amongst the relics
of antiquity in possession of the Dublin Society are several heads
of axes which were dug up in the south, corresponding exactly with
some that have been found in the plain of Cannæ and in Egypt, and
which are considered as Carthaginian. This, she adds, seems strongly
to corroborate the idea that the Carthaginians, the most adventurous
navigators of ancient days, actually traded to Ireland.
Cotemporary with these are many of the
CAVES,
evidently artificial, which served as habitations to the rude
colonists. Many of these remain, in the north, on the sides of hills
almost inaccessible, and are vulgarly called "Picts Caves" at the
present day. Neat in chronological order to those are the
ROUND TOWERS,
Conical erections, tall and slender, so frequently found adjoining to,
or nearly in contact with, the ancient churches. Those antiquaries
who give them a very recent date, suppose them to be the work of
native builders, whilst the Castles and Churches are by English or
French architects: but Vallancey claims for them a very ancient date,
asserting that they were erected by the Phœnicians to contain the
sacred fire, and copied from the pyramidal stones so frequent with
that people and with the Druids. Ledwich, however, merely considers
them as common appendages to the wooden churches; some at a distance
of 8 feet, others 124; and one, at _St. Kevins_, actually joined to
it. This latter writer assumes that they are _Ostmanic_, or Danish
productions, "and from uninterrupted tradition, probably to have been
belfries from the beginning." Of these about sixty-six remain. Except
as to rotundity, every architect seems to have followed his own fancy
both in height and in internal arrangement: the one at Antrim is 80
feet high, tapers about 18 feet from the top in form of a sugar-loaf,
where it is about 36 feet in girth, and 52 near the base; some have
their door 24 feet from the ground, but in general not more than 10 or
12. The Tower at Drumiskin is supposed to have been the highest in the
island, upwards of 130 feet, and nearly equalled by those at Kildare
and Kilkenny. That at Kilmacduagh in Galway is 110 feet, with the door
24 feet from the ground.
Much controversy has existed respecting the origin of these round
edifices. The first writer who mentions them is _Giraldus Cambrensis_,
who certainly calls them "Ecclesiastical Towers;" and some writers go
so far as to assert, from the grammatical construction of the sentence
in which he describes them, that he saw the builders in the very act
of raising them, in 1185. This at least is certain, that they were so
early in existence; but Lynch, who wrote in 1662, asserts that they
were erected by the Danes, as early as 838; in which he is followed by
Peter Walsh, also by Molyneux in 1727, who ascribes them to the Ostmen
or Danes, but supposes them to be of later date than the Raths and
other earthen works, and erected solely as Bell Towers for calling the
people of large districts to join in religious ordinances. But there
are some circumstances which militate against that opinion, whilst
others seem to confirm it. At the Giant's Ring in the County of Down,
we have an instance of a Round Tower on a spot manifestly of Druidical
superstition, without any Church in its vicinity; as if the churches
were built near to the Towers, instead of these being built near to the
churches, the early preachers of Christianity choosing to erect their
new religious edifices on spots already consecrated in the eyes of the
people. It must be acknowledged, however, that when the Round Tower at
Downpatrick was pulled down in 1790, whilst repairing the cathedral,
its foundation being cleared away, another foundation was discovered
under it, and running directly across the site of the tower, which
appeared to be a continuation of the church wall, and which, at some
period prior to the building of that tower, seemed to have extended
considerably beyond it. Further, that these towers, sometimes at least,
had a connexion with Christianity, is evident from the fact of some of
them being built upon vaults belonging to the churches; and on more
than one, in the north of Ireland, may be traced the figure of the
cross. One instance of this may be seen on the keystone of the door
of the tower at Donoghmore. On the other hand, in regard to the tower
at Drumbo, it is evident that at some former time, very strong fires
have been burned within that building, and the inside surface, towards
the bottom, has the appearance of vitrification. Indeed it is a fact
recorded in the _Down Survey_, p. 290, that the ground floors of many
towers have been opened, where the ashes of burnt wood have been found,
supposed by some antiquaries to be the remains of the perpetual fire
once kept burning there in honour of the Sun. It is also recorded by
Pennant, in his _View of Hindostan_, that the Pagodas, in the Circars,
resembled the Round Towers, with tops pointed or truncated, and
ornamented with a round ball to represent the Sun as an emblem of the
deity of that temple. The idea of their being Christian penitentiaries
seems at first sight to be whimsical; yet it is said that there are
manuscripts in existence which prove it with respect to some of them.
One of these manuscripts records the building of a tower at Kinath, in
Cork County, in the year 1015; whilst the tower at Ardmore in Waterford
has evidently been used as a belfry.
An idea is started in the _Kilkenny Survey_, p. 632, that they are
connected with pilgrimages; a pilgrimage being called _Turrish_ in
Irish, as if in allusion to their Latin appellation of _Turris_.
Of other facts connected with them, it may be recorded that at Tulloher
in Kilkenny, where the tower is only 8 feet from the church, yet that
edifice is of limestone, whilst the tower itself is of siliceous
breccia.
That some of them are comparatively of recent erection is evident from
the fact that at Roscrea in Tipperary, the tower has a pointed or
Gothic arch, 38 feet from the ground. Now the 12th century is generally
allowed to be the era of the introduction of the Gothic architecture
into this country; and from this a curious question arises. It is
moreover a curious fact, not hitherto noticed by any writer upon this
subject, that the isolated tower, probably of Moorish origin, which
stands on the neutral ground at Gibraltar, bears a very striking
resemblance, in all points, to the Irish round towers in general.
This tower has been seen and examined by the editor, who was much
struck by the similarity at the time, and has since endeavoured to
procure all possible information upon the subject. It is well known
that Gibraltar was not inhabited by the Phœnicians, Carthaginians, nor
Romans, nor even by the Visigoths, but was first taken possession of
by the Saracens in 711; fourteen years after which the Moorish castle
was built, followed by other edifices, with the pointed Saracenic
arch, until the rock returned to the dominion of Spain in 1462. It
may be added here, that the Irish towers have a strong resemblance to
the Oriental minarets, especially in their supposed use as places
for calling the people to worship. Where there are so many and so
discordant opinions it is difficult to decide; but the tourist may
avail himself of these hints in his further researches.
Of the precise antiquity of the
RATHS,
or Danish Mounts, few doubts exist. These are circular mounts of earth,
from 40 to 150 feet in diameter at the base, and conically diminishing
towards the top. Common tradition gives them to the DANES; and no
doubt a great proportion of them are not older than the occupation of
the northern and eastern coasts by the Ostmen. But some must be of
the earliest Scandinavian date; particularly the _Giant's Ring_ near
Belfast, and the _Rough Fort_ near Templepatrick, which have Druidical
remains incorporated with them, and in their very centre. Besides,
though the term _Danish_ is universally applied to these works, yet
some of them are also undoubtedly _Norwegian_, particularly one near
Fore in Westmeath, called the "Fort of Turgesius," positively described
by _Giraldus_ as the work of a Norwegian chieftain, and raised for a
castle, using the word "Castella," and not _Castrum_.
Before quitting the subject of the _Raths_, it may be useful to notice
Ledwich's observations on that subject. Quoting Giraldus, The Irish,
says he, had no castles, their woods served them for camps, and their
marshes for ditches. It was Turgesius and his Ostmen who formed that
infinite number of earthen forts and castles made of lime and stone.
It is then to those northern invaders that Giraldus ascribes the high
round earthen forts with deep ditches and often triple entrenchments.
This is certainly in opposition to Mr. Harris, who argues for their
Celtic origin, reasoning principally on the name of _rath_ being of
Celtic derivation. It has also been supposed that they may have been
introduced by the Belgic colonists, as the name has some appearance of
Teutonic origin. These raths are generally upon elevated spots, and of
various dimensions, from 10 or 15 yards diameter, to an extent of 18 or
20 acres. Some of them have subterraneous chambers, with sally-ports;
some are round, others square; the former supposed by Spencer to be
Danish, the latter Saxon. They are sometimes called _Motes_, a Gothic
word signifying the place of meeting; and indeed it has been supposed
that many of them were intended rather for civil legislation, or
judicial purposes, than as works of military defence. These Raths,
together with the _Duns_, or inclosures upon insulated rocks, and
the _Daingeans_, or inclosures formed by deep ditches with ramparts
and pallisadoes, are supposed by Ledwich to have been the only forts
amongst the Irish antecedent to the invasion by the Norman barons in
the reign of Henry II. In many parts of the island, the Irish chiefs
had an inveterate dislike to fixed fortifications--one cogent reason
why scarcely any castles exist except of English erection; a fact well
illustrated by an anecdote of the famous De Courcy, who constructed
two castles in _Mac Mahon's_ country, a step which awed the latter
into complaisance; and he having sworn fidelity, De Courcy bestowed on
him the two castles with their appendant lands. But within a month Mac
Mahon demolished both; and, on being asked his reason for doing so,
replied that "he did not promise to hold stones but land; and that it
was contrary to his nature to live within cold walls whilst the woods
were so nigh."
It has often occurred to the writer of these sheets, from actual
observation of some hundreds of these _mounds_, that the term "Rath,"
as generally applied, is often erroneous. Wolff in his Dictionary
positively states the word "Raad" in the Danish language to signify
a council; of course, by a common figure of rhetoric, putting the
thing for the place, or the place for the thing, this term is properly
applied to the larger eminences, some of which are as extensive as old
Sarum, and therefore well adapted for assemblies of the people. But
Lloyd, in his Dictionary of the Irish-English Language, considers the
word even more figuratively, saying that it means a village, a prince's
seat, also an artificial mount, or barrow. Now the fact is, that many
of the smaller mounts, where placed singly, may be, and some of them by
opening have been proved to be, _Tumuli_, or sepulchral monuments; but
others, placed in lines of communication for miles together, for they
are never found in groups as upon Salisbury plain, were evidently for
exploratory purposes or chains of military posts, a most remarkable
instance of which may be seen on the road from Belfast towards
Templepatrick, where there is a line of them within sight of each other
for several miles, leading through the valley of communication from
Belfast Lough towards Lough Neagh, between the Cave Hill and Carnmoney
mountain, and connected with the very curious mount at the Rough Fort,
which looks down upon a bog called King's Moss at the foot of the
Carrantoll mountains, in the centre of which is a most extensive Rath,
about 10 yards high, and at least 60 in diameter, with a raised bank
round its summit faced with rough stones towards the area. Part of
one side having been broken into, it seemed as if the whole had been
raised upon rough stone-work, the materials for which must have been
brought from a considerable distance. These, both large and small, are
sometimes called moats; and some, of the largest size, are designated
by the appellation of Dun or Doon.
We now come to monuments of more recent date, of which the
RELIGIOUS ANTIQUITIES
deserve the first consideration; and of these some
CHURCHES may perhaps be as old as the 11th or 12th century, and not
earlier; for although many were built immediately after the conversion
by St. Patrick, about five centuries after CHRIST, yet all these were
simply of wood or wattled, and therefore long extinct. Along with
these we may class the
CELLS and HERMITAGES, rude and composed of upright stones with an
impost, where saints led an eremitic life, perhaps sometimes adapting
the older Druidical cromlechs to their more modern purposes, just in
the same manner as several of the
CROSSES are supposed by Ledwich to have been carved upon the ancient
upright pyramidal stones of pagan idolaters. These Crosses have
neither that light and taper form nor elegant Gothic workmanship which
distinguish our ancient specimens in England; but though simple in
design they are yet rich in sculpture. Sir R. C. Hoare thinks them
coeval with the Round Towers, about the 9th or 10th century.
This part of the subject must not be dismissed without some notice
of the stone-roofed Chapels of the ancient Irish, which Ledwich
considers as exhibiting, along with other remains, some ideas of the
Egyptian and Grecian styles of architecture; in which opinion he is
more than sanctioned both by O'Halloran and Archdall, who claim an
early knowledge of architecture for the aboriginal Irish. Mr. Ledwich,
however considers these as the first specimens of stone and mortar ever
seen in the island; as raised by the Ostmen, and intended solely for
the preservation of reliques. Several of these present themselves to
the tourist as objects of curiosity. One may be seen near the cathedral
of Killaloe, supposed to have been the depository of the reliques of
St. Flannan. The tourist in Ireland cannot fail to be struck with
the number of monastic remains, of which the churches or chapels are
mostly standing, though unroofed and in ruins. These he will always
find surrounded by crowded cemeteries; and Sir R. C. Hoare observes
that he was informed the great frequency of the fact proceeds from the
consolidation of parishes at a period when the Catholic predominated
over the Protestant religion. He adds, in direct opposition to modern
assertions, that the latter now begins to gain ground, as application
has been made for the restoration of many of those dilapidated
churches, and some have already been rebuilt. Of these ancient
specimens, some few are of Saxon architecture, particularly Kilsheel
church in Tipperary, having a Saxon doorway, once rich in sculpture,
but now defaced. In general the Church ruins consist of little more
than the shell of a small edifice with two gable ends and scarcely
any windows, always enveloped in ivy: in some places they appear at
distances of every 4 or 5 miles. But Sir R. C. Hoare remarks, that
although monastic architecture may be inferior to that of the sister
kingdoms, yet Ireland, in her stone-roofed Chapels, Round Towers, and
rich Crosses, may justly boast of singularities unknown and unpossessed
by either of them.
The _Church Monuments_ are by no means so numerous or so ancient as to
afford the antiquary, the genealogist, or the heraldic tourist, that
amusement and instruction so frequent in the ecclesiastical edifices
of England. Few antique monuments remain, and the authenticity of the
so much boasted one of Strongbow, in Christ-church in the metropolis,
is very doubtful. Sir R. C. Hoare has stated, p. 13, 14, in a note,
the evidence for and against it. There we have the authority of an
inscription of the restored monument, by Sir H. Sydney in 1570; to
which Sir Richard adds a positive assertion of his being buried there,
from Giraldus, but setting against it the "Hic jacet" of a tomb in
Gloucester cathedral, recorded by Leland. Sir Richard, himself, doubts
the fact of Strongbow having been buried in Dublin, as we do also, but
not precisely for the same reason. Sir Richard's doubt springs from
the circumstance of the knight on the Christ-church monument bearing a
shield argent, on a chief azure three cross crosslets fitchée; whilst
the family coat of the _De Clares_, Earls of Pembroke, were Or, 3
chevrons gules. But the fact is, that at the time in question there was
a great license in the assumption of coat armour, then just beginning
to be hereditary; and indeed there are frequent instances at that
period of individuals adopting new coats for particular purposes. The
present case is an instance of it; for the coat with the crosses was
actually assumed by Gilbert, father of Strongbow, on his return from
the Holy Land.
The remaining objects of antiquarian research are the
CASTLES,
which are of various dates. Some of these may be as old as the 11th
or 12th century, perhaps older, as it is said that the Scandinavian
chiefs introduced stone into their fortified places, and there are
several Norwegian _round Castles_ still extant. Ledwich divides them
into several eras; first, _old Danish forts_ surrounded with earthen
works, to which was afterwards added a keep of stone and lime, and
sometimes a circular wall; then piles of building encompassed by a
rampart, afterwards called a _Bawn_, and imitated by later colonists;
then houses with battlements and turrets, flankers, &c. Of all these
there is a great variety, as well as number; and the author quoted is
of opinion, that all the castles constructed by British settlers were
by British architects.
The most remarkable of these will be found described in the following
sheets.
If the MINERALOGIST does not find so great a variety of substances to
repay his research as he may do in most parts of the sister-island
of Great Britain, yet the geologist will discover many leading
features upon a large scale that deserve his attention. Hitherto
the little notice that has been taken on these two subjects, of the
soil of Ireland, both superficial and fossil, has been in regard to
agricultural purposes; but from casual discoveries hitherto made,
there seems reason to hope that an accurate mineralogical research
will be both interesting to science and beneficial in political and
domestic economics. So far as general examination has yet gone, and
in order to offer some leading hints to the scientific inquirer, it
may be observed, that sandy soils, such as are frequent in England,
are seldom seen except in maritime situations; but there are many
inland beds of a red substance, too soft to be called stone, yet too
compact to be called sand, though perfectly reducible to that state
by the action of the sun or artificial heat. This however generally,
if not always, lies below a thin stratum of soil more congenial to
vegetation. Of argillaceous earths, clay is not uncommon, but seldom
at the surface, and never so tenacious as in the eastern parts of
England. Pipe-clay is also met with; and an indifferent kind of
fuller's-earth. Calcareous matter is very frequent, as limestone; but
chalk is unknown. Silex is found in limestone quarries; but the flints
are generally in nodules. Loam is frequent, and now much attended to
as a manure or top dressing. Marble and granite, also specimens of
porphyry, exist in many districts; and the marble quarries in Kilkenny
and Carlow in particular, will not fail to arrest the attention of
the geologist, in consequence of the great deposition of sea-shells
and marine exuviæ contained in them. Freestone is also often met
with; presenting, when cut in particular directions, the semblance
of fir-deal in the position of its strata. There is a geological
observation made by the Rev. Mr. Townsend in his Survey of Cork,
which deserves the investigation of the geological tourist, and may
serve to lead him to valuable facts in the course of his research.
That intelligent writer remarks, that in many of the southern
districts, the limits of limestone tracts are generally marked by
the course of a river; and this he illustrates by the fact that the
Blackwater river, in its course from Fermoy to Mill-street, runs at
the south side of the limestone; whilst, for the far greater part
of the way between Castlemore and Cork, a distance of about eleven
miles, the course of the limestone is distinctly marked, first by the
river Bride, and after its junction with the Lee, by the latter river.
During this space, he states that the limestone invariably adheres to
one side of the channel, which it follows in all its windings, without
ever crossing it. At Kinmare the same circumstances may be observed;
and also in the county of Waterford, where, however, the Blackwater
runs to the north of its limestone tract. The bogs are also worthy
both of mineralogical and geological notice; not only on account of
the immense number of fossil oak and yew-trees which they contain; but
also from the fact that many of them which extend for miles in length,
consist, even to a depth of many feet, of a congeries of branches
and twigs of trees, which seem to have required even a succession of
forests for ages to have supplied them. Of these, perhaps, there can
be little doubt that a great portion are actually antediluvian.
Before entering on this part of the investigation, the scientific
tourist will do well to read Mr. Aiton's pamphlet on Moss Earth,
where he will meet with many interesting hints for research. Even the
antiquary will not pass these immense tracts unnoticed, since much
light has been thrown upon the earlier periods of Irish history by
the discovery of curious antiques at considerable depths, by the peat
cutters. Some iron heads of arms, wooden bowls, three sacks full of
nuts, and a coat of ancient texture and construction, were in 1737 dug
from under a moss fifteen feet deep; all of which were in a high state
of perfection. Indeed Mr. Aiton observes, that the singular antiseptic
qualities of moss extend to every thing buried under its surface.
Wood, when exposed to the atmosphere, or buried under any other
earth, will be totally decomposed or annihilated in a few years; but
if it is enveloped in moss before putrefaction has made much progress
upon it, it will remain but little impaired for many centuries. The
underside of moss timber is generally found entire; and Mr. Aiton is
of opinion, that the progress which corruption has made on the upper
side of many specimens, must have taken place before the moss, in its
progress of growth, rose above the trees. Facts of this kind may very
properly lead to observations of the means of preventing the dry rot
in timber; and the chemical tourist may devote an hour most usefully
to the analysis of those substances which are found in the immediate
vicinity of those fossil trees in the highest state of preservation.
Basaltes is another substance which deserves the notice of the
tourist; for, though not peculiar to Ireland, it is perhaps more
interesting here than in any other country, nature presenting it
under the most awful forms; sometimes piled up in immense structures
of stupendous height and extent, where its columns are arranged in
various directions, as if deposited in regular series by the hand of
men. It is principally however in the N.E. district that it is so
found, extending from Carrickfergus-bay to Lough-Foyle, on the sea
coast, and inland even to the southern shores of Lough-Neagh.
Granite forms the great bed of Ireland, and is seen bursting out in
all the great ranges of mountains; not only in the central parts of
the kingdom, but also in the basaltic district.
Ochres, both red and yellow, are found in considerable quantities in
many places. Fuller's-earth has already been mentioned: there are also
several other saponaceous earths, particularly near the Old-Head of
Kinsale in the county of Cork.
Slates are found in most parts of Ireland; and flag-stones are worked
in great quantities in many districts.
The tourist whose time does not admit of much mineralogical research,
may yet be amply gratified on that subject whilst in Dublin, by
examining the collection at the Society's house.
Before starting on an Irish tour, the traveller will naturally
be anxious to know what kind of weather he may expect. To this we
shall answer shortly in the words of Mr. Aldworth of Cork, in a
communication to Mr. Wakefield, wherein he observes that, as an
old agriculturist, he is inclined to think that less rain falls in
the interior of Ireland than in any of the other British Isles,
and yet perhaps there are more wet days there than in the latter;
a circumstance which certainly interferes with travelling in an
open carriage. As the showers however, though frequent, are not,
generally speaking, of very long duration, this inconvenience may
be easily guarded against. To this we may add, that the winds which
most usually prevail in Ireland blow from the west: they are mild
in their temperature, and moist in their nature; but far from being
insalubrious. It has also been well observed by the Rev. Horace
Townshend, after a long residence, that along the sea coast the
winter is disarmed of its severity by the softness of the southern
wind, which mitigates the rigour of the frost, and seldom suffers
the heaviest snow to remain many hours undissolved, except on the
north sides of the high hills. This observation, however, applies
principally to the southern coast; where also the sea breeze tempers
the summer's warmth by its refreshing breath; so that the greatest
degree of heat, as well as cold, is found in the northern districts of
the island. The whole island is remarkably bare of trees, and exhibits
a naked appearance; which is more striking to a traveller whose eye
has been familiarized to the woody counties of England. Yet the varied
aspect arising from the frequency of sea views, combined with the
rude but grand scenery of the mountains, and the different tints they
assume according to their distance, produces a number of beautiful and
diversified prospects.
The ENTOMOLOGIST will also be certain of finding numerous sources of
amusement. Mr. Hall, in his Tour, vol. 2. p. 268, asserts that with a
tolerable glass, one sees animals grazing, like cattle in a meadow,
on the leaves of every vegetable, and these also much larger than in
Great Britain.
Some tourists have been deterred from penetrating into the wildest
parts of the island, by prejudices founded on misrepresentation and
ignorance; but little cause for alarm exists if the tourist chooses to
conduct himself with a little civility to the poor ignorant peasantry
whom he shall meet, even in the loneliest places. On this subject, Mr.
Wakefield records the fact, that when in the county of Mayo, he was
advised not to cross a particular district in his way to Roscommon;
he, however, experienced no inconvenience, except from the hardness of
the roads and his ignorance of the Irish language, there universally
spoken. With respect to the conveniences of travelling, we must not
lead the tourist astray by inducing him to believe that, except upon
the great frequented roads, he will meet with any thing like the
accommodations so general in England. But if he can patiently bear
with minor difficulties, he may pursue his route over great part of
the island by mail and stage-coaches, and in general by post-chaises,
if not provided with his own horses or carriages. The Inns, indeed,
will often disappoint him, both in accommodation and cleanliness; yet
he may always be certain of clean sheets, and his culinary comforts
are clean, if he can content himself with plain dishes. Travelling
however is so unfrequent, that in many places, when a visitor does
arrive at an inn, he appears to be considered as an inexhaustible
gold mine, not only by the landlord, but also by the numerous host of
retainers, many of whom he never sees until going away. Before we take
leave of the tourist, it may be proper to offer him a few hints from
Sir R. C. Hoare's Work, which will be extremely useful to him.
If he chooses to go to the expense of his own carriage and horses,
he will certainly ensure to himself much independence; especially
if he takes care to select a judicious route. For a party also,
this would perhaps be as cheap a mode as can well be adopted. But
if he is a single traveller, or with one companion, and not averse
to pedestrianism, then he may find a general facility by taking the
direct and cross coaches from station to station, hiring horses for
long excursions, and walking those of a shorter range. Before leaving
Dublin, Belfast, or Waterford, the three points from whence an English
tourist is likely to start, let him make a fair calculation of time
and distance, allow a certain sum per mile and a certain sum per day,
and then supply his purse with the paper and coined currency most
likely to answer in the district he intends to visit. This he will not
find difficult at the places mentioned, or indeed at any of the larger
towns; but let him be on his guard against bad money and forged notes;
and also, if he has any Irish currency left at the end of his tour,
let him change it for English when setting off to return.
It now only remains to add, that every writer, both ancient and
modern, on the subject of Ireland, has been consulted; aided by the
communications of friends and a general personal knowledge of the
Topography of Ireland on the part of the Editor.
The tourist will observe that the distances are given in Irish miles,
of which, eleven are equal to fourteen English. The distances of
the county towns from the capital are taken on the authority of the
latest surveys; whilst the distances in the vicinage of the several
stations are from common computation or from the best maps, and may
be depended on for every useful purpose to the inquisitive traveller,
bearing in mind that bogs and mountains often render roads circuitous,
in which cases local inquiry, and also for the best roads, will often
be beneficial, and sometimes necessary. Reference to many of the
authorities will be found in the work itself; but it may be added
that the county surveys have been carefully examined and compared
with earlier descriptions, independent of the general notices from
Hoare, Hall, Plumptre, Curwen, Drummond, Weld, and all the recent
topographical works, together with several recent anonymous tours,
whose proved accuracy, in many points, renders them worthy of notice
in all.
TOPOGRAPHICAL DIVISION OF IRELAND,
_With the Baronies, Parishes, and Contents in Irish Acres._
_Baron._ _Parish._ _Acres._
{ *Armagh contains 5 20 181,450
{ Down 8 60 348,550
ULSTER. { Antrim 8 77 387,200
_9 Counties._ { Londonderry 4 31 318,500
8298 { Donnegal 5 42 679,550
square miles. { *Tyrone 4 35 463,700
{ Fermanagh 8 18 283,450
{ *Cavan 7 30 301,000
{ *Monaghan 5 19 179,600
-- --- ----------
54 332 3,143,000
_Lough Neagh_ covers 58,200
----------
3,201,200
----------
{ Louth 4 61 110,750
{ Meath 12 147 327,900
{ Dublin 6 107 142,050
{ Wicklow 6 58 311,600
LEINSTER. { Wexford 8 142 342,900
_12 Counties._ { *Kilkenny 9 127 300,350
6936 { *Carlow 5 50 137,050
square miles. { *Kildare 10 113 236,750
{ *Queen's County 8 50 235,300
{ *King's County 11 52 282,200
{ *Westmeath 12 62 231,550
{ *Longford 6 23 134,150
-- --- ---------
97 992 2,792,550
-- --- ---------
CONNAUGHT. { Galway 16 116 989,950
_5 Counties._ { Mayo 9 68 790,600
7125 { Sligo 6 39 247,150
square miles. { Leitrim 5 17 255,950
{ *Roscommon 6 56 346,650
-- --- ---------
42 296 2,630,300
-- --- ---------
{ Cork 16 269 1,048,800
MUNSTER. { Kerry 8 83 647,650
_6 Counties._ { Clare 9 79 476,200
9000 { Limerick 9 125 386,750
square miles. { *Tipperary 10 186 554,950
{ Waterford 7 74 262,800
-- --- ---------
69 816 3,377,150
--- ----- ----------
252 2,436 12,001,200†
* The thirteen _inland_ counties are distinguished by an asterisk.
† All fractions having been excluded from this calculation, it is very
much _under_ the full number of acres in Ireland.
An Irish Acre contains 7840 square yards.
Scotch 6130 ditto.
English 4840 ditto.
From Port Patrick to Donaghadee 25 English miles.
Holyhead to Dublin 63 ditto.
Milford Haven to Waterford 85 ditto.
No part of Ireland is more than fifty miles from the sea.
ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISION OF IRELAND.
_The Province of_ ARMAGH _contains Ten Dioceses*._
663 Parishes, 446 Churches.
†16 Abpk. of Armagh 11 Bpk. of Raphoe
23 Bpk. of Dromore 9 ---- of Clogher
7 ---- of Down } 12 ---- of Kilmor
---- of Connor} _united._ 22 ---- of Ardagh‡
6 ---- of Derry 5 ---- of Meath
_The Province of_ DUBLIN _contains Five Dioceses._
658 Parishes, 217 Churches.
15 Abpk. of Dublin 3 Bpk. of Ferns }
21 Bpk. of Kildare ---- of Leighlin} _united._
20 ---- of Ossory
_The Province of_ CASHEL _contains Eleven Dioceses._
839 Parishes, 254 Churches.
17 Abpk. of Cashel} 8 Bpk. of Cloyne
Bpk. of Emly } _united._ 2 ---- of Limerick}
19 ---- of Waterford} ---- of Ardfert } _united._
---- of Lismore } _united._ and Aghadoe }
14 ---- of Cork} 4 ---- of Killaloe }
---- of Ross} _united._ ---- of Kilfenora} _united._
_The Province of_ TUAM _contains Six Dioceses._
276 Parishes, 87 Churches.
1 Abpk. of Tuam 18 Bpk. of Elphin
21 Bpk. of Clonfert } 10 ---- of Killalla
---- of Killmacduagh} _united._ ---- of Achonry.
* The dioceses are placed with respect to contiguity, not
according to rank; for the bishop of _Meath_ has precedence of all
bishops, and next to him _Kildare_; the other bishops take place
according to the date of their consecration.
† The figures indicate the order in comparative extent of
each diocese.
‡ _Ardagh_, though in this province, is at present annexed
to the archbishoprick of _Tuam_.
LEGAL DIVISION OF IRELAND.
CIRCUITS OF THE JUDGES.
_The Assize Towns are marked with an Asterisk, thus_, (*).
MUNSTER CIRCUIT.
From DUBLIN to
*Waterford | _Waterford_ | -- | 74
Carrick | _Tipperary_ | 14 | 88
*Clonmell | _Tipperary_ | 10 | 98
*CORK | _Cork_ | 42 | 140
Mill-Street | _Cork_ | 22 | 162
Castle-Island | _Kerry_ | 18 | 180
*Tralee | _Kerry_ | 8 | 188
Castle-Island | _Kerry_ | 8 | 196
Abbyfeale | _Limerick_ | 8 | 204
Newcastle | _Limerick_ | 2 | 213
Rathkeale | _Limerick_ | 6 | 219
Adair | _Limerick_ | 6 | 225
*LIMERICK | _Limerick_ | 8 | 233
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 94 | 327
CONNAUGHT CIRCUIT.
From DUBLIN to
*Roscommon | _Roscommon_ | -- | 69
Tulsk | _Roscommon_ | 9 | 78
Elphin | _Roscommon_ | 5 | 83
*Carrick | _Leitrim_ | 7 | 90
Boyle | _Roscommon_ | 7 | 97
*Sligo | _Sligo_ | 17 | 114
Ballisidare | _Sligo_ | 3 | 117
Coloony | _Sligo_ | 2 | 119
Tobercorry | _Sligo_ | 11 | 130
Banada | _Sligo_ | 4 | 134
Kilmateague | _Sligo_ | 3 | 137
Foxford | _Mayo_ | 8 | 145
*Castlebar† | _Mayo_ | 11 | 156
Balcarra | _Mayo_ | 5 | 161
Newbrook | _Mayo_ | 5 | 166
Holymount | _Mayo_ | 4 | 170
Kilmain | _Mayo_ | 3 | 173
Shrule | _Mayo_ | 3 | 176
Cahirmorres | _Galway_ | 6 | 182
*Galway | _Galway_ | 11 | 193
Gort | _Galway_ | 17 | 210
Crusheen | _Clare_ | 8 | 218
*Ennis | _Clare_ | 6 | 224
Gort | _Galway_ | 14 | 238
Loughrea | _Galway_ | 12 | 250
Kilconnel | _Galway_ | 6 | 256
Ahascragh | _Galway_ | 5 | 261
Mount-Talbot | _Roscommon_ | 9 | 270
Roscommon | _Roscommon_ | 7 | 277
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 69 | 346
† At Ballinrobe generally in the Spring, and at Castlebar in the
Summer.
LEINSTER CIRCUIT.
From DUBLIN to
*Wicklow | _Wicklow_ | -- | 24
Arklow | _Wicklow_ | 12 | 36
Gorey | _Wicklow_ | 9 | 45
Castlebridge | _Wexford_ | 19 | 64
*Wexford | _Wexford_ | 2 | 66
Ross | _Wexford_ | 19 | 85
*KILKENNY | _Kilkenny_ | 19 | 104
Leighlin Bridge | _Carlow_ | 12 | 116
*Carlow | _Carlow_ | 6 | 122
*Athy† | _Kildare_ | 9 | 131
*Maryborough | _Queen's Co._ | 12 | 143
*Philipstown | _King's Co._ | 17 | 160
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 38 | 198
† At Nass generally in the Spring, and at Athy in the Summer.
ULSTER, _North East_.
From DUBLIN to
*Drogheda | _Droghedaco._ | -- | 23
*Dundalk | _Louth_ | 17 | 40
*Downpatrick | _Down_ | 32 | 72
Saintfield | _Down_ | 8 | 80
*Carrickfergus | _Antrim_ | 17 | 97
Belfast | _Antrim_ | 8 | 105
Lisburn | _Antrim_ | 7 | 112
Lurgan | _Armagh_ | 10 | 122
Portadown | _Armagh_ | 5 | 127
Richhill | _Armagh_ | 5 | 132
*Armagh | _Armagh_ | 4 | 136
Tynan | _Armagh_ | 6 | 142
Glaslough | _Monaghan_ | 3 | 145
*Monaghan | _Monaghan_ | 5 | 150
Castleshane | _Monaghan_ | 3 | 153
Castleblayney | _Monaghan_ | 8 | 161
Peterborough | _Monaghan_ | 7 | 168
Mill of Louth | _Louth_ | 5 | 173
Ardee | _Louth_ | 5 | 178
Navan | _Meath_ | 15 | 193
*Trim | _Meath_ | 7 | 200
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 22 | 222
ULSTER, _North West_.
From DUBLIN to
Kilcock | _Kildare_ | -- | 14
Infield | _Meath_ | 5 | 19
Kinnegad | _W. Meath_ | 10 | 29
*Mullingar | _W. Meath_ | 9 | 38
Ballinalack | _W. Meath_ | 8 | 46
Edgeworth's-to. | _Longford_ | 6 | 52
*Longford | _Longford_ | 6 | 58
Granard | _Longford_ | 12 | 70
*Cavan | _Cavan_ | 13 | 83
Newtonbutler | _Fermanagh_ | 11 | 94
M'Gwire's bridge | _Fermanagh_ | 7 | 101
*Enniskillen | _Fermanagh_ | 7 | 108
Trillick | _Fermanagh_ | 9 | 117
*Omagh | _Tyrone_ | 11 | 128
Newtownstewart | _Tyrone_ | 7 | 135
Strabane | _Tyrone_ | 7 | 142
*Lifford | _Donnegal_ | 1 | 143
*LONDONDERRY | _Derry_ | 12 | 155
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 115 | 270
HOME CIRCUIT.
TO CARLOW.
From Carlow, Grangemellon, Andrie, _Athy_.
From Athy, Stradbally, _Maryborough_.
From Maryborough, Portarlington, Clonegowan, Geshil, _Philipstown_.
From Philipstown, Terrilspass, Rochfort, _Mullingar_.
From Mullingar, Killucan, Raharney, _Trim_.
COMPARATIVE HEIGHT
OF
THE CHIEF MOUNTAINS IN IRELAND,
_Above the Level of the Sea_.
_Eng. feet._
_M'Gillicuddy's Reeks_, Co. of Kerry, 3404
_Sleibh Dorm_, Co. of Londonderry, 3150
_Knockmeledown_[2], dividing Cork, Tipperary, and Waterford, 2700
_Croagh Patrick_, Co. of Mayo, 2666
_Nephin_, Ditto, 2640
_Mangerton_, above the Lake of Killarney, Co. Kerry, 2505
_Mourne Hills_, Co. of Down, 2500
_Commerach Ridge_, Co. Waterford, 2160
_Croaghan Kinshelly_, Bar. of Arklow, 1850
_Sawell_, Co. of Londonderry, 1600
_Slenish Mountain_, Co. of Antrim, 1390
_Alt-English-Hill_, Co. of Londonderry, 1300
_Benbradagh_, Co. of Londonderry, 1300
_Benyevenach_, Ditto, 1250
_Sleibh Gallan_, Ditto, 1250
_Donald's Hill_, Ditto, 1200
_Kedy_, Ditto, 1100
_Croneham_, Co. of Wicklow, 1000
_Croaghmore_, Co. of Antrim, 600
ISLE OF MAN.
_Inafel_, in centre of the Island, 1740
[2] On the top of this mountain Henry Eles by his own desire
was buried; he was an ingenious man, and published several tracts on
electricity.
[From Rees's _Cyclopedia_.]
LIST _of_ ROUND TOWERS; _principally extracted from_ Dr. Beaufort's
Memoir, _with an indication of those he had seen marked with an
Asterisk_.
Key:
_Ht._ = Height in Feet.
_Cf._ = Circumf.
_Th._ = Thickness of Walls.
_Dr._ = Door from ground.
In ULSTER, 9. |_Ht._|_Cf._|_Th._|_Dr._
+-----+-----+-----+-----
_Antrim_, near *Antrim, at a place called | | | |
Steeple. | | | |
at Armoy. | | | |
in *Ram Island, in Lough Neagh | | | |
_Cavan_, at Drumlane. | | | |
_Down_, at *Drumbo. | | | |
at *Maghera, half only is standing | | | |
_Fermanagh_, in *Devenish Island, in | | | |
Lough Erne | 76 | 41 | 3-6 |
_Monaghan_, at Clones. | | | |
at *Eniskeen. | | | |
| | | |
In LEINSTER, 26. | | | |
| | | |
_Dublin_, at *Clondalkin | 84 | | |
at *Lusk. | | | |
at Rathmichael. | | | |
at *Swords | 73 | 55 | 4-8 | 2
_Kildare_, at *Castledermot. | | | |
at *Killcullen | 40 | 44 | 3-6 | 7
at *Kildare | 132 | 54 | 3-6 | 13
at Oughterard | 25 | 48 | 3 | 8
at Taghadoe | 71 | 38 | 3-8 | 11-6
_Kilkenny_, at *Aghavuller, part only | | | |
remaining. | | | |
at Fertagh, alias Beggar's Inn | 112 | 48 | 3-8 | 10
at *Kilkenny, or rather in | | | |
Irishtown. | | | |
at Kilree. | | | |
at Tulloherin. | | | |
_King's County_, at *Clonmacnoise--two | | | |
_Louth_, at *Dromiskin, part of one | 130 | | |
at *Monasterboice | 110 | 51 | 3-6 | 6
_Meath_, at *Donaghmore. | | | |
at *Kells | 99 | 48 | 3 |
_Monaghan_, at Clones--one perfect, one | | | |
ruinous. | | | |
_Queen's County_, at *Dysert. | | | |
at *Timahoe | 35 | 53 | 4-4 | 14
_Wicklow_, at Glandelough--two, one of | | | |
them perfect. | | | |
| | | |
In MUNSTER, 14. | | | |
| | | |
_Clare_, at *Drumcliff. | | | |
at *Dysart. | | | |
in Iniscalthra, in Lough Deirgeart | | | |
in Scattery Isle, in the Shannon | 120 | | |
_Cork_, at *Cloyne | 92 | 50 | 3-8 | 13
at *Ballybeg, the stump of one. | | | |
at Kineth | 70 | | |
_Kerry_, at *Aghadoe. | | | |
at Rattoo. | | | |
_Limerick_, at *Dysert. | | | |
at *Kilmallock. | | | |
_Tipperary_, at *Cashel on the Rock | | 54 | 4 | 11
at *Roscrea | 80 | 45 | |
_Waterford_, at Ardmore | 100 | 45 | |
| | | |
In CONNAUGHT, 9. | | | |
| | | |
_Galway_, at Feartamore. | | | |
at *Kilmacduagh | 112 | 57 | | 24
_Mayo_, at Aghagower. | | | |
at Ballagh. | | | |
at *Killalla. | | | |
at *Melick. | | | |
at *Turlough | 70 | 45 | | 29
_Roscommon_, at Oran. | | | |
_Sligo_, at *Drumcliffe, the ruin of one. | | | |
These towers are all standing; there were five others still perfect
within a few years.
1. Co. Down, at _Downpatrick_, lately taken down[3], was 66 feet high,
47 in circumference.
[3] The round tower of Downpatrick was taken down, in order
to enlarge the west end of the cathedral, which is now repairing,
after having lain in ruins for a great number of years. And it is
very remarkable, that under the foundations of this tower, were found
the vestiges of a more ancient church, which appears to have been of
exceeding good masonry, and upon a larger scale than the present old
fabrick; in the walls of which there are many pieces of cut stone,
that have evidently been used in some former building. The same
circumstance may also be observed in several of the ruined churches at
Clonmacnoise.
2. Co. Dublin, in _Ship-street_, Dublin, destroyed a few years since.
3. Co. Cork, at _Cork_, pulled down about fifty years.
4. Ditto, at _Brigown_, not long down.
5. Co. Kerry, at _Ardfert_, which fell in 1770.
A very ingenious friend remarks[4], that almost all our round towers
are divided into stories of different heights; the floors supported
in some by projecting stones, in others, joists put in the wall at
building, and in many they are placed upon rests. The last are from
four to six inches, carried round and taken off the thickness of
the wall in the story above; and he very probably conjectures that
these rests do not diminish the thickness of the wall as they ascend,
because then it would not have been sufficiently strong to bear storms
or support the conical cap which was generally solid and heavily
constructed. They seem therefore to be swellings in the wall which
rather add to its thickness upwards, and this Mr. Cooper confirms by
the round tower at _Lusk_, whose wall is three feet thick at top.
_Cashel_ tower is divided into five stories, with holes for joists.
[4] From Ledwich's _Antiquities of Ireland_.
_Fertagh_ has five stories and one rest.--_Kilcullen_ has
three stories and one rest.--_Kildare_ has six stories and
projecting stones for each.--_Monasterboice_ has six stories and
projecting stones.--_Oughterard_ has five stories and projecting
stones.--_Taghadoe_ has six stories, the upper has projecting stones,
the others rests.--_Timahoe_ has seven stories, the second has
projecting stones, the others rests.
The door of _Cashel Tower_ faces the S.E., those of _Kildare_ and
_Kilkenny_ the S., and the others vary.
Four small windows were placed at the top of _Kells Tower_ pointing to
the four cardinal points.
_Kenith Tower_ stands 124 feet--_Drumbo_ 20 feet--_Downpatrick_ 48
feet--_Kildare_ 90 feet--_Kilkenny_ 8 feet--_Dromiskin_ 90 feet, from
their respective Churches. _Ardmore_, _Castledermot_, _Cloyne_, and
other _Towers_ were formerly and at present are used for belfries.
GLOSSARY,
_Or Explanation of some of those Irish Words which most frequently
occur in composition with the names of places._
_Agh_, a Field.
_Anagh_ or _Ana_, a River.
_Ard_, a high Place, or rising Ground.
_Ath_, a Ford.
_Awin_, a River.
_Bally_ or _Ballin_, a Town, or inclosed place of habitation.
_Ban_ or _Bane_, White, or Fair.
_Beg_, Little.
_Ben_, the summit of a Mountain, generally an abrupt head.
_Bun_, a Bottom, Foundation, or Root.
_Car_ or _Cahir_, a city.
_Carrick_, _Carrig_, _Carrow_, a Rock or Stony Place.
_Cork_, _Corcagh_, a Marsh, or swampy Ground.
_Clara_, a Plain.
_Croagh_, _Croghan_, a sharp pointed Hill resembling a Rick.
_Clogh_, _Clough_, a great Stone.
_Curragh_, a marshy or fenny Plain.
_Clon_, a Glade, or a level Pasture Ground.
_Col_, _Cul_, a Corner.
_Derry_, a clear dry Spot in the midst of a woody swamp.
_Don_, a Height or Fastness, a Fortress.
_Donagh_, a Church.
_Drom_, a high narrow Ridge of Hills.
_Inch_, _Inis_, an Island.
_Ken_, a Head.
_Kill_, a Church or Cemetery.
_Knock_, a single Hill, or a Hillock.
_Lick_, a flat stone.
_Lough_, a Lake, or a Pool.
_Magh_, a Plain.
_Main_, a Collection of Hillocks.
_More_, large, great.
_Rath_, a Mount or Entrenchment, a Barrow.
_Ross_, a Point of Land projecting into Waters.
_Shan_, Old.
_Sliebh_, a range of Mountain, a Hill _covered with Heath_.
_Tach_, a House.
_Temple_, a Church.
_Tom_, _Toom_, a Bush.
_Tra_, a Strand.
_Tobar_, _Tubber_, a Well or Spring.
_Tullagh_, a gentle Hill, a Common.
_Tully_, a Place subject to Floods.
TABLE _showing the Difference in Value of_ ENGLISH _and_
IRISH CURRENCY.
English Money exchanged into ||Irish Money exchanged into
Irish, at Par: One Pound || English, at Par: 1Ɩ. 1s. 8d.
English being 1Ɩ. ls. 8d. Irish.|| Irish being 1Ɩ. English.
-----+----------+----+------------++-----+-------------+-----+--------
Eng. | Irish |Eng.| Irish ||Irish| English |Irish|English
-----+----------+----+------------++-----+-------------+-----+--------
£ | £ s. d.| s. | s. d. q. || £ | £ s. d. q.| s. |s. d. q.
900 |975 0 0 | 3 | 3 3 0 || 900 |830 15 4 2 | 4 | 3 8 1
800 |866 13 4 | 4 | 4 4 0 || 800 |738 9 2 3 | 5 | 4 7 1
700 |758 6 8 | 5 | 5 5 0 || 700 |646 3 0 3 | 6 | 5 6 1
600 |650 0 0 | 6 | 6 6 0 || 600 |553 16 11 0 | 7 | 6 5 2
500 |541 13 4 | 7 | 7 7 0 || 500 |461 10 9 0 | 8 | 7 4 2
400 |433 6 8 | 8 | 8 8 0 || 400 |369 4 7 1 | 9 | 8 3 2
300 |325 0 0 | 9 | 9 9 0 || 300 |276 18 5 2 | 10 | 9 2 3
200 |216 13 4 |10 |10 10 0 || 200 |184 12 3 2 | 11 |10 1 3
100 |108 6 8 |11 |11 11 0 || 100 | 92 6 1 3 | 12 |11 0 3
90 | 97 10 0 |12 |13 0 0 || 90 | 83 1 6 1 | 13 |12 0 0
80 | 86 13 4 |13 |14 1 0 || 80 | 73 16 11 0 | 14 |12 11 0
70 | 75 16 8 |14 |15 2 0 || 70 | 64 12 3 2 | 15 |13 10 0
60 | 65 0 0 |15 |16 3 0 || 60 | 55 7 8 1 | 16 |14 9 0
50 | 54 3 4 |16 |17 4 0 || 50 | 46 3 0 3 | 17 |15 8 1
40 | 43 6 8 |17 |18 5 0 || 40 | 36 18 5 2 | 18 |16 7 1
30 | 32 10 0 | |19 6 0 || 30 | 27 13 10 0 | 19 |17 6 1
20 | 21 13 4 | d. | || 20 | 18 9 2 3 | d. |
10 | 10 16 8 | 1 | 0 1 0 || 10 | 9 4 7 1 | 1 | 0 0 3
9 | 9 15 0 | 2 | 0 2 0 || 9 | 8 6 1 3 | 2 | 0 1 3
8 | 8 13 4 | 3 | 0 3 1 || 8 | 7 7 8 1 | 3 | 0 2 3
7 | 7 11 8 | 4 | 0 4 1 || 7 | 6 9 2 3 | 4 | 0 3 2
6 | 6 10 0 | 5 | 0 5 1 || 6 | 5 10 9 0 | 5 | 0 4 2
5 | 5 8 4 | 6 | 0 6 2 || 5 | 4 12 3 2 | 6 | 0 5 2
4 | 4 6 8 | 7 | 0 7 2 || 4 | 3 13 10 0 | 7 | 0 6 1
3 | 3 5 0 | 8 | 0 8 2 || 3 | 2 15 4 2 | 8 | 0 7 1
2 | 2 3 4 | 9 | 0 9 3 || 2 | 1 16 11 0 | 9 | 0 8 1
1 | 1 1 8 |10 | 0 10 3 || 1 | 0 18 5 2 | 10 | 0 9 0
Sh.| |11 | 0 11 3 || Sh. | | 11 | 0 10 0
19 | 1 0 7 |q. | || 1 | 0 0 11 0 | q. |
1 | 0 1 1 | 1 | 0 6 1 || 2 | 0 1 10 0 | 1 | 0 0 1
2 | 0 2 2 | 2 | 0 0 2 || 3 | 0 2 0 0 | 2 | 0 0 2
| | 3 | 0 0 3 || | | 3 | 0 0 0
Description of FRONTISPIECE and other PLATES, with Directions for
placing them.
_Frontispiece_ _Irish Antiquities_, viz.
1.--Oratory near Killaloe, supposed the oldest and most curious Monuments
in Ireland; they are also to be seen at Glendaloch, Co.
of Wicklow; St. Doulach's near Dublin; at Cashel, Co. of Tipperary;
and Portaferry, Co. of Down.
Vide _Killaloe, Co. of Clare._
2.--Round Tower, a species of building peculiar to Ireland; that at
Swords is here represented. Vide _Swords, Co. Dublin._
3.--Sculptured Cross at Monasterboice, 18 feet high, of which Character
there are several in Ireland--Vide _Drogheda, Co. of Louth._
4.--Chapel, Round Tower, and Cathedral, at Cashel--distant view.
The Chapel is considered one of the most curious in the kingdom.
The situation and antiquity of this place, as well as its picturesque
beauty, constitute it a place of much interest.
Vide _Cashel, Co. of Tipperary._
5.--Hook Tower, founded upon a rock, surrounded by precipices on
one side and shelving rocks on the other; the walls are of amazing
thickness, with stairs to the top. This is similar to Reginald's
Tower, Waterford, and other Danish Round Towers, or Forts,
dispersed over the kingdom. Vide _Fethard, Co. of Wexford._
6.--Giant's Causeway. Vide _Co. of Antrim._
7.--Mountains as they appear in the distance from Dunlow Castle,
Lake of Killarney. Vide _Killarney, Co. of Kerry._
The Vignette.
Map of Ireland _To face Antrim._
View from Warren's Point, near Narrow Water, Newry.
_To face Newry, Co. of Down._
View of Dublin from the Circular Road in the environs, with Richmond
or Sarah Bridge in the foreground
_To face the City of Dublin, on the 2d page of Co. Dublin._
Map and Plan of the Lakes of Killarney, and surrounding objects
_To face Killarney, Co. of Kerry._
View of the Lake and Mountain at Killarney from Lord Kenmare's
seat _To face 4th Page of Co. of Kerry._
View of Eagles Nest, and site of wonderful Echo--Lake of Killarney
_To face 6th Page of Co. of Kerry._
Carlingford Harbour and Castle--a brisk gale
_To face Carlingford, Co. of Louth._
Glendaloch, or Valley of Seven Churches.
_To face Glendaloch, Co. of Wicklow._
[Illustration: _Engraved for the Scientific Tourist._
IRELAND.
_London. Published by J. Booth, Duke Street, Portland Place, 1818._]
ANTRIM.
42 m. from N. to S. 24 from E. to W. containing 430,000 Irish acres;
bounded by the sea on the N. and E., by Down on the S. by Lough
Neagh and Derry on the W. It contains much diversified scenery; is
mountainous on the northern, and eastern coasts, but extends into
fertile plains in the interior. Its great extent of sea coast affords
every variety in science and the picturesque; mountains wild, covered
with heath and bog, or frowning in abrupt and rugged cliffs; towards
Lough Neagh all the mild beauties of cultivation: the vale of the
Lagan, between Belfast and Lisburn, cannot be surpassed for beauty,
cultivation, elegant villas, bleach-greens, and comfortable cottages,
with all the varieties of hill, dale, wood, and water, by any tract of
equal extent in the empire. Its ancient inhabitants were the _Darni_,
succeeded by the _Dalriadi_, afterwards by the _Ostmen_, and finally
by English and Scottish settlers. Lofty hills afford great amusement
to the botanist and geologist, particularly the range near Belfast,
amongst which Devis is 1400 ft. high; the Cave Hill 1140; Carmony 790;
and the Knockagh 903. These and others consist principally of a compact
body of limestone rock, over which, extending along the whole coast as
far as the Giant's Causeway, a diffusion of vitrifiable stone has been
superinduced in a state of softness, now forming a hard basalt, resting
generally on a base of variegated sandstone dipping to the W.
ANTRIM, 16 m. from Belfast, 84 m. from Dublin.--On the banks of the
Six-mile Water, near its confluence with Lough Neagh, see the Castle,
a seat of the Massarene family. 2 m. W. ruins of Shane's Castle;
near it, the field where a furious battle was fought in the late
rebellion, in which Lord O'Neil fell by the hand of ingratitude;
round tower. This ancient Castle has lately become a mass of ruins,
in consequence of a most destructive fire; yet it is still worth
visiting, being beautifully seated on the banks of Lough Neagh, facing
the S.W. the waters of which formerly washed its walls, but were
some years ago fenced off by an embankment, on which was erected a
handsome green-house. Nothing can be more majestic than the view from
the Castle of the vast expanse of water, and the neighbouring banks
considerably enriched with trees and verdure, through which are many
charming walks and rides. The demesne and park are of great extent,
through which a fine stream runs, taking its rise from a small lake
10 m. distant. Near the small lake is an elegant cottage called Remon
Lodge, originally fitted up for retirement and shooting-parties,
shaded with large venerable trees, and altogether a delightful
sequestered spot.
BALLINDERRY, 14 m. S.W. of Belfast.--Neat village. Good station for
Lough Neagh; ruins of Portmore Castle. 3 m. N. in the Lough, Ram's
Island with a round tower.
BALLYCASTLE, 47 m. N. from Belfast.--Improving sea-port town, with
a Colliery. Ruins of the old Castle; Abbey; and Gobbin's Heir, 1 m.
S.E. See the Coal-pits and Kelp-works: also the ancient Coal-mine or
Gallery lately discovered, supposed to be Danish. Chalybeate Spa.
Danish Raths. Romantic scenery round the cliffs, with Raghery Island
6 m. N. in the distant horizon, presenting to the eye of taste, in
a fine evening, a singular prospect, with its chalky cliffs crowned
by a venerable covering of brown rock, broken into beautiful and
picturesque variety by the turbulent ocean. On the road to Portrush
a singular little fishing rock, always an object of interest to
tourists, called Carrick-a-Rede; connected to the main land by an
extraordinary flying bridge over an abrupt and romantic chasm 60
feet in breadth. See also the White Rocks about 1 m. E. from Port
Rush, well worth examining, with a beautiful calcareous façade
extending about 1/2 a m., capriciously hollowed into a vast number of
magnificent caves of various sizes. Also the cliffs of Craigmillar. 5
m. S. Ardmoy village, with neat Ch. and curious round tower: on the
road on the right, ruins of an old Castle. See Knocklede, recently a
volcano, and Kinfane Castle.
BALLYMENA, 8 m. N. of Antrim.--See Gilgorm Castle, and the Moravian
settlement at Grace-hill. Slemish mountain, an interesting object.
5 m. N. is Clough, a small neat village. See the Ch., plain but
handsome, with ruins of two Castles.
BALLYMONY, 23 m. N. from Antrim.--Thriving village by linen
manufacture. 4 m. N. village of Dervock, with the beautiful seats
of Belleisle and Cloverhill. 6 m. E. is Lough Guill. See Ch., and
Lissanoure Castle on the banks of the lake, a most romantic mansion
and grounds.
BELFAST, 84 m. N. from Dublin.--Flourishing commercial town at head of
Carrickfergus Bay. Elegant Ch. and Chapel-of-ease. House of Industry.
White and brown Linen-Halls. Academical Institution. Bridge of 21
arches over Lagan, with romantic prospect of the bay and surrounding
hills. Exchange and Assembly Rooms. Various charitable Institutions.
Philosophical and Musical Societies; the latter for revival of the
Harp. Quays and Docks. Glass-houses and Iron-founderies. 3 m. N. the
Cave-hill, with caves and romantic scenery, and a most extensive
prospect from its summit. Delightful ride towards Carrickfergus, with
numerous seats and villas; several Danish raths, and the ruins of
White Abbey. 5 m. S.E. of Belfast, near Ballydrain, is the Giant's
Ring, an extensive circular earthen mound 2256 feet in circumference,
with a Druidical Cromlech in the centre. Near it Collin and Devis
mountains, with ancient caves called the "Picts," and fine view of
Lough Neagh: across the Lagan 3 m. is the elegant seat of Belvoir.
BENGORE HEAD,--the most northern extremity of the island, and an
object in the tour to Giant's Causeway, which it much resembles.
BUSH MILLS, 8 m. N.E. from Coleraine.--The nearest accommodation for
the Giant's Causeway. 3 m. N.E. Ruins of Dunluce Castle on a romantic
cliff. 3-1/2 m. N.W. the seat of ancient Irish chieftains, and
surrounded by the scenery of Ossian's first poem. Take a boat for view
of the coast.
CARRICKFERGUS, 8 m. N.E. of Belfast, the county and assize
town.--Ancient Castle built by Hugh Lacy, Earl of Ulster, in 1178.
Ch. with monuments of the Donnegall family. New Court-house and Gaol.
Some remains of an ancient monastery: ancient walls and pier where K.
William landed. Romantic scenery towards the N.E. and Island Magee,
including Castle Dobbs, and Kilroot where Thurot landed. 3 m. N.W.
ruins of Abbey at Monks Town, where tradition points out the grave of
King Fergus.
CUSHENDUN, 10 m. from Glenarm.--A small village in a romantic bay;
grotesque caves, and a caverned rock on which Red Castle stands: it
presents several specimens of whyn dykes to the geologist, containing
veins of calcareous spar mixed with coarse-grained basaltes. Between
it and Glenarm, about half way, rises the sharp promontory of Garron
Point, exhibiting a beautifully diversified trapose outline, and
projecting far into the sea, on a limestone base wrought into caverns
by the restless surge. A little N. of the point is the romantic vale
of Glenariff, containing red sandstone, porphyry intermixed with
veins of jasper, and a curious breccia or pudding-stone; but, to the
sentimental traveller it is even more interesting; for here he may
conceive himself in the genuine country of Ossian, as nearly every
romantic object in the vicinity bears a name connected with that hero.
DUNLUCE CASTLE, 5 m. W. of Bushmills.--The most striking ruin on the
coast; on an isolated, abrupt rock, perforated by the waves which
have formed under it a very spacious cavern. The approach to it is
along a narrow wall; but it well repays the risk; its dark basaltic
walls marked with the mellow tints of time, in some places forming
a perpendicular line with the rock on which it stands, whilst its
commanding situation, its numerous gables and turrets, (resembling
the ruins of a village destroyed by fire,) excite a high idea of its
former magnificence, and a feeling of regret for its lost splendour.
It was built probably by De Courcey, afterwards enlarged by native
chieftains, and finally by the Macdonnels in the time of Elizabeth.
Though in total ruin, a particular chamber is said to be haunted, and
to be the favourite abode of Mave Roe, a Banshee or such fictitious
personage, who sweeps it every night; but, as Dr. Drummond observes,
the sweeping winds that rush through that and the other desolate
apartments, will sufficiently account for the cleanness of the room
without the aid of supernatural agency.
FAIRHEAD or BENMORE, 4 m. N.E. of Ballycastle.--Is a most interesting
object, towering magnificently with its massive columns of basaltes,
forming a line of coast the most fantastically beautiful that
imagination can conceive. It is strongly characterized by the savage
wildness of its cliffs, at whose foot the ocean rages with uncommon
fury. Scarce a single mark of vegetation has yet crept over the hard
rock to diversify its colour, but one uniform grayness pervades its
scenery, contrasting exquisitely with Bengore, about 9 m. distant to
the W. The tourist must visit the Fhirleath or Gray Man's Path, a deep
chasm dividing the solitary promontory in twain, with its solid walls
of rude and threatening columns upwards of 200 feet in perpendicular
abruptness.
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, 8 m. W. from Ballycastle, and about 3 m. N. of
Bushmills (the general station for tourists).--Is an object not to be
described in small limits, being a most singular geological curiosity
and one of Nature's most stupendous productions. Dr. Drummond briefly
states it to consist of three moles, composed of basaltic columns
projecting into the sea from the middle of the semicircular bay of
Port Noffer; the longest of which, called the Grand Causeway, extends
in a sloping direction from the base of the cliff about 300 feet, when
it is lost in the ocean. The pillars of which the Causeway consists
have been estimated at 30000; but that is too small a calculation.
These are of different dimensions; 15 to 36 feet in height, and from
15 to 26 inches in diameter, chiefly pentagonal or hexagonal; each
consists of joints or pieces concave and convex alternately at the
ends. The pillars are a species of basaltes and kind of close grit,
vitrifiable, of a dusky hue, contrasting finally with the surrounding
verdant scenery, and continued, with interruptions, two miles along
the precipitous shore. On the eastern side the Giant's Loom, a
colonnade of 36 feet in height; and on the opposite cliff may be seen
the Organ, so called from the resemblance to that instrument in the
group of columns: also the Giant's Well, Chair, and Theatre, with
the King and Parliament. Other objects of curiosity are,--the large
rounded masses of irregularly prismatic basalt between the causeways,
and the distinct globular concretions at Port Coon, a little to the
westward: the curious whyn dyke at the head of the grand causeway:
the generally romantic scenery of Port Noffer: then the cave of Port
Coon, celebrated for its fine echo, continually resounding to the dash
of the waves: the Cave of Dunkerry between Port Coon and the Bushfoot
Strand, accessible only from the ocean, between two mural ridges
of jet-black rock, with its lofty dome and sides overspread with a
covering of green _confervæ_, suggesting the idea that it might have
been scooped out of an emerald; a crimson zone of marine plants, five
or six feet in breadth, surrounds and adorns it; and its extent has
never yet been ascertained, its sides contracting into a narrow cleft
where no boat can penetrate, but where the waves are heard rolling to
a considerable distance.
GLENARM, 8 m. N. of Larne.--Castle of the Countess of Antrim, still
venerable and magnificent, and on the site of an ancient Abbey: from
the front is seen the Glen or Great Park 13 m. in circuit; extremely
romantic and beautiful; consisting of wood and broken rock, with
several waterfalls and salmon-leaps formed by a large serpentine river
winding through the grounds, whilst its banks are adorned with various
evergreens; myrtles, and the _arbutus_ or strawberry-tree almost
continually in blossom. From the park are fine views of the sea; a
distant prospect of the Abbey in ruins, and the scenery considerably
enriched by the singular appearance of the adjacent mountains, which
are cultivated in corn to their very summits. In its vicinity are many
rude antiquities, supposed to be of Danish origin.
See the GLENS on the borders of Red Bay, with the ruins of Red Castle,
7 m. N. of Glenarm. The scenery around is very romantic, the village
being secluded in a glen, where the limestone shores finely contrast
with the azure ocean. To the northward is the site of Dunmall, a
fortress where, tradition says, all the rent of Ireland was once paid;
but its only memorials are a mound and fosse with the fragments of
a wall. Beyond Garron Point see the curious grotesque rock called
Clough-i-stookin, of chalky whiteness, bearing a striking resemblance
to a female of gigantic stature: near it the ruins of a Castle on a
caverned cliff, the echoes in which are curious: also Torr Point.
On the beach near Glynn the _Anomia Gryphus_ and the _Vertebræ
pentacrinites_ are found in abundance in a blue lime. To the N. of it
stand the lofty and precipitous cliffs of Agnew's Hill, said to be the
loftiest hill in the county. The vicinity of this romantic spot has
been well described by Mr. Wakefield, who, on descending the hill to
Cushendall, beholding on the one hand a cultivated mountain, and on
the other a vale of rich land in a high state of tillage, declares
that upon the whole a more extended and more delightful prospect of
hill and dale intermixed in charming variety, is not often to be
seen. He adds, that from Cushendall to Glenarm, passing Red Bay and
coasting along the ocean, the whole way, the road exhibits the most
romantic and beautiful scenery. On the one hand magnificent and widely
extended views of the ocean, which on this coast rolls its swelling
waves towards the shore with a peculiar and dangerous rapidity; and
on the other, rocky mountains of considerable height, whose hanging
cliffs, as the road extends partly up their sides, seem to threaten
the traveller with destruction; and which in some places are thickly
clothed with woods, through the openings between which the eye is
sometimes surprised with the sight of a village as the road winds
round the spacious bays and jutting promontories.
LOUGH NEAGH is the largest lake of fresh water in Europe, with the
exception of Ladoga, Onega, and Geneva, being 20 m. by 12; and
the country round it being level, the furthest shores cannot be
distinguished from any part of its circumference; so that it resembles
an ocean, particularly in stormy weather, when the waves break
suddenly and are dangerous for boats. See Ram Island with its Round
Tower: inquire for Gems, Crystals, and Petrifactions. The ride from
Belfast, of about 16 m. is delightful; and nothing can be finer than
the view bursting on the tourist from the top of Mount Devis, whether
he contemplates Lough Neagh, or turns round to admire the extensive
prospect over the County Down and Irish Channel, towards the Isle of
Man, and even the distant mountains of Wales. Though this extensive
inland sea receives no less than eight rivers, yet the only outlet to
the whole collected mass of water is on the N.W. extremity, at Toom,
whence passing through a small lake, Lough Beg, it forms the river
Bann, which runs into the sea at Coleraine. The great disproportion
between the outlet and the influx has given rise to a conjecture
of subterraneous passages; but not the smallest indication of such
a phenomenon has yet been discovered,--so that the great means of
reduction must be by exhalation: to this it may be added, that in the
dry season the efflux is so trifling as to be waded at Toom, where it
is less than knee-deep; whilst on the other hand, in the wet season,
most of the rivers being mountainous, the influx is so sudden and so
greatly extensive, that 10,000 acres are often covered, which were
dry in summer. The geologist may also notice the well-authenticated
fact that, the Lough often interrupts its own course to the sea, by
the quantities of sand and gravel which it deposits in the channel:
all those impediments are frequently accelerated, though sometimes
removed, by the casual direction and force of the winds: hence the
dilatation and contraction have not been as yet reduced to any role;
but the fact is certain that its strongest tendency is towards
expansion, its actual encroachments being marked and known; for in one
place it has encompassed one Ch., (Ballyscullen) drowned great part of
the parish, and still seems gaining on the land. It must be remembered
that this Lough is perhaps the shallowest piece of water in the world
of such an extent, being no where deeper than 11 fathoms. The trade
carried on upon the Lough has of late years received considerable
additions from three navigable canals; one of which leads to Newry,
where a river runs into the sea at Carlingford; the second, through
Lisburn, gains the sea at Belfast; and the third takes a direction
westerly, for inland purposes. In stormy weather the waves break so
short and dash with such violence against the shoals at the foot of
Shane's Castle, that the spray is said often to have dashed into the
highest windows. In consequence of this, shipwrecks of the craft are
not unfrequent.
PLEASKIN.--A Cape a little to the E. of Giant's Causeway; the most
striking of all the semicircular precipices on this range of coast,
in the opinion of Dr. Drummond and the ingenious but unfortunate Dr.
Hamilton. In the sixteen different strata of which it is composed,
beauty and sublimity are wonderfully blended and harmonised. Over
a dark and rugged base fringed with incessant foam it lifts its
sides adorned with various tints of green gray lichen, and vermilion
rock, with a rapid declivity to about half its elevation, and thence
becomes perpendicular. On a stratum of red ochre at the elevation of
200 feet, stands a magnificent gallery of basaltic columns, 44 feet
in height, with others equally romantic; like a theatre of Nature
harmoniously arranged, rock upon rock, gallery upon gallery, so
magnificent, so solitary, and facing the wide Atlantic, as if formed
for the temple of "spirits from the vasty deep!"
LARNE, 8 m. N. from Carrickfergus,--worth notice for the fine scenery
round its harbour and vicinity. Redhall; Olderfleet, and various
ancient Castles in ruins; several Cromlechs on the E. side of Brown's
Bay, where is also the Giant's Cradle, a large stone so nicely
balanced that a small force will put it in motion, though the utmost
strength of many men cannot overturn it. See Ballygelly Promontory 3
m. with masses of prismatic basalt, where the pillars first commence:
to the W. ruins of Cairn Castle on an insulated rock; and the Salagh
Braes.
LISBURNE, 7 m. S.S.W. from Belfast.--Handsome, populous, and
extensive, on the Lagan. Handsome Ch.; large Market-house; several
neat Sectarian Chapels. Linen, diaper, and damask manufactories. 2 m.
N.E. Lambeg with curious damask-works, and numerous bleach-greens.
Near Lambeg numerous villas; Drum House and Ch.; Ballydrain, with lake
and grounds; and the Giant's Ring, with round tower.
RANDALSTOWN, 88 m. from Dublin, 3 m. N.W. from Antrim.--A thriving
town on the river Main. See Market-house and Assembly-rooms; also
the scenery of Lough Neagh 2 m. distant. 3-1/2 m. N. is Kells, a
pleasant village, with ruins of an ancient Ch.; 3 m. E. of which, the
dilapidated village, once the city of Connor and still an episcopal
see united to Down. See ruins of the Cathedral.
RATHLIN, or RAGHERY, a small island N. of Ballycastle.--See Doon
Point; also the Tumulus on a plain in the centre, with stone coffins.
The ruins of Bruce's Castle. Here also are seen optical aërial
illusions, like the _fata morgana_ in the Straits of Messina.
TEMPLE PATRICK, 10 m. N.W. from Belfast.--Road to Antrim, on which
route the tourist may enjoy some fine mountain scenery, including the
Bay of Carrickfergus, backed by the majestic mountains of Mourne.
Close to the village see Castle Upton, the castellated mansion of
Lord Templetown, with handsome park and mausoleum. 4 m. S.E. is the
rough fort, an ancient memorial of uncertain origin, but partly
Danish, perhaps partly Druidical; with wild scenery in its vicinity;
and on the road to Belfast is a complete chain of Danish raths.
MINERALS.
Basaltes:--along the coast from Belfast to Ballycastle.
Granite and porphyry:--in the glen between Devis and Collon mountains
near Belfast.
Limestone:--very frequent throughout the county.
Coal:--near Ballycastle; containing pyrites.
Sandstone, and aluminous layers:--near Ballycastle; containing evident
traces of zoophytes and other organic bodies.
Crystals:--very fine at Knocklaide mountain.
Calcedony variegated with marine plants:--frequent on the rocky shores.
Stalactites and tufa:--near Kinfane: also calcareous creeping stones
near the Glynns.
BOTANY.
_Alopecurus pratensis_:--in the levels near Lough Neagh.
_Dactylis glomerata_, Cock'sfoot Grass:--meadows near Lisburn.
_Festuca fluitans_, Float Fescue:--bogs and wet grounds in the S. and
W. parts of the county.
_Holcus lanatus_, White Grass:--springs up in turf bogs.
_Phleum pratense_, Timothy Grass:--Castle Dobbs and Island Magee.
_Plantugo_, Narrow-leaved Plantain:--to be met with in every field or
meadow.
_Poa aquatica_:--in the wettest bogs, where only it will grow.
_Rhinanthus_, Yellow Rattle:--on dry soils.
ARMAGH
Is an inland county; the northern part bordering on Lough Neagh,
consists of most extensive bogs of extraordinary depth and a remarkably
black soil, and thereby affords no scenery worth attention. But in the
immediate vicinity of the city of Armagh, the tourist is gratified
by a richer prospect, where an abundant population finds employment
in well inclosed and well cultivated fields. To the southward the
appearance deteriorates, especially in that part called the Fews; a
district of dark black mountains, where the hand of industry or the eye
of taste has scarcely yet penetrated. Yet it is well worthy the notice
of the picturesque tourist, from its alpine views, particularly round
Slieve Gullien, which rivals the loftiest in England or Wales. In the
vicinity of Armagh the soil is fertile, consisting generally of a rich
brown loam with limestone and limestone gravel, and the appearance of
the gently undulating grounds has been compared to eggs set in salt:
bounded on the S.W. by Monaghan; W. by Tyrone; N. by Lough Neagh; E.
by Down; S.E. by Louth. The two principal lakes are Carlough and Lough
Clay.
ARMAGH, 62 m. from Dublin, the metropolitan see of all
Ireland,--stands on the acclivity of a lofty mountain, the top
occupied by the Cathedral which forms a fine object. The place is
considerable; the new streets handsome. Archbishop's Palace adjoining
the town, a modern edifice of unadorned simplicity: barracks large,
airy, and even elegant: see the College; commodious Charter School:
New Ch. of white stone with handsome spire: Public Infirmary, Public
Library, and Observatory: curious market Cross. Examine improvements
of the late Archbishop, aided by the judicious exertions of the
present Primate. About 5 m. W. is Clonfeckle, on the borders of
Tyrone, deserving the notice of the agricultural tourist as the
residence and farm of Dr. Richardson, the cultivator of Fiorin grass.
(_Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 319.) Also Lisnadell, 5 m. S.
of Armagh: handsome Ch. and Glebe House, erected by the patriotic
Archbishop Robinson. About 10 m. S. is Newton Hamilton, stated in
tradition as the scene of a sanguinary battle between the great O'Neil
and a chieftain of Louth, in consequence of the latter singeing the
beard of his guest at a banquet, and in which O'Neil lost his life.
See also near to it remains of an old Cromwellian encampment: and
ruins of Black Bank Castle.
CHARLEMONT, 7 m. N. of Armagh.--A good town and military depôt. See
the fort and barracks.
JONESBOROUGH, a small village, but a good station for the visitant
of the wild mountain scenery in its vicinity, particularly Slieve
Gullien. Rocks, caverns, glyns, from a bold ascent, are the features
of the summit of this mountain, without the smallest appearance of
any calcareous matter; and although there have not hitherto, says Sir
C. Coote, been any minerals discovered here, yet there is a strong
probability of their existence from the metallic tinge of the waters
which burst from its sides, oozing in plentiful discharges even in
the driest seasons. On its summit is a cairn of stones which form the
roof of a cavern that at first view appears to be natural, but on
minute investigation has evident testimony of being the work of art.
The apartment is difficult of entrance, but is large within; and as
there is a flagged way to the edge of the lake at the foot, it seems
intended for other than sepulchral purposes. Sir C. Coote observes,
that perhaps a bolder prospect is not presented by any mountain in
Ireland than from its summit, comprising a great extent of country;
the lakes and streams, the several towns and well-cultivated demesnes,
together with the bay of Dundalk, where the declivity is terminated;
these, with a thousand other natural beauties which are presented
to view, will repay the fatigue of the ascent, and an awful and
impressive pleasure is afforded in contemplating the bold promontories
and rugged cliffs bared by the tempests, and arresting the floating
meteors, throughout furnishing ample resources for the inquisitive
philosopher.
LURGAN, about 14 m. N.E. from Armagh.--A large town, principally
of one extensive and neatly kept street; surrounded by the linen
manufacture, Ch. and Spire. See the house and handsome grounds of
the Brownlow family, with good views of Lough Neagh. The mansion, an
antique Castle.
MARKETHILL, a thriving town about 4 m. S.E. from Armagh, with good
Inn.--In the Fews a wild, barren, but romantic district, the admirers
of Dean Swift will be gratified in tracing many spots noticed by that
eccentric character; especially Hamilton's Bawn, Gosford Castle, and
Draper's Hill, about 1 m. distant. Throughout these wild and romantic
mountains there is something very interesting, awful, and grateful, to
the lover of nature, elevating the inquisitive mind, and inspiring a
strong desire to explore their inmost recesses, and a desire to become
familiar with so sublime a solitude. (_See further, Sir C. Coote's
Survey of County_, p. 35.)
PORTADOWN, 3 m. S. of Lurgan,--is a neat town on the Bann, at the
junction of the Newry canal with that river.
RICH HILL, about 4 m. N.E. from Armagh,--is a small village, but
deserves notice for the beautiful residence of Sir Capel Molyneux at
Castle Dillon, with extensive plantations, lakes, &c. and two handsome
columns in honour of St. Patrick and the volunteers of Ireland. The
appearance of the village itself is interesting, and considerably
improved by the elegant demesne of Mr. Richardson, in full view of
the street, with antique Castle. Proceed through a charmingly wooded
country towards the Church of Kilmore, and thence by good roads
to Loughgall village, where is Drummilly, an ancient mansion with
extensive plantations.
TANDERAGEE, 10 m. E. of Armagh,--affords good specimens of the linen
manufacture. Acton village, 5 m. S., the scene of many bloody contests
in the feudal times, especially at Points Pass; and near to it is
Scarvagh Pass on the borders of Down.
TYNAN, about 6 m. S.W. of Armagh,--stands pleasantly on an eminence
near a river of the same name. See excellent Ch. and lofty steeple:
also in the Church-yard an oblong stone of about 18 inches square and
4 feet long, set upon a large block stone, and capped with another,
divided into square compartments, and having vestiges of sculpture.
1 m. ruins of ancient Castle. About 6 m. S. Keady, a small village
on the river Callen, crowded with mills and bleach-greens. See the
handsome Ch., also the rich lead-mines.
MINERALS.
Lead:--in the vicinity of Tynan; rich ore.
Iron exists, at least in small quantities, as evinced by the chalybeate
springs in the mountainous districts.
Fossils are stated, in the _County Survey_, to be in great variety, as
yet little known, but affording ample investigation to the geologist.
BOTANY.
_Colchicum autumnale_, Meadow Saffron:--on the borders of the
Blackwater and Callen rivers.
_Euphrasia_, Eyebright:--in low grounds near the Lough.
_Hippuris_, Marestail:--at the mouth of the Bann.
_Iris_, or Flag:--on the banks of the river Callen.
_Lobelia Dortmanna_, Water Gladiole:--in Lough Neagh.
_Mentha aquatica_, Water Mint:--common in low grounds.
_Menyanthes_, Purple Buckbean:--beautiful specimens in various places.
_Nymphæa_, Water Lily (White and Yellow):--on the borders of Lough
Neagh, and in muddy ditches.
_Parnassia_, Grass of Parnassus:--on Tynan river.
_Phellandrium aquaticum_:--on the banks of Cushier and Blackwater
rivers.
_Potamogeton natans_, Pondweed:--in stagnant waters near Lough Neagh.
_Ranunculus_, Crowfoot:--in the marshy grounds.
_Scrophularia aquatica_, Water Figwort:--on the banks of Newry Water.
_Senecio paludosus_, Bird's Tongue:--in low marshes.
_Subularia aquatica_, Awlwort:--under the water in Lough Neagh.
_Thalictrum flavum_, Meadow Rue:--on the lake side near summit of
Slieve Gullien.
_Typha angustifolia_, Narrow-leaved Catstail:--very common.
CARLOW
Is a small county; interesting to the picturesque tourist from the
variety, if not from the sublimity of its scenery; but even in that
he may be gratified whilst rambling amidst the mountainous chain from
Mount Leinster to Blackstairs on the S., a district awfully grand and
majestic, and the range impassable except at Scullogh Gap, resembling
the Ghauts or passes in the mountains of India. In the western part of
the county also, on the banks of the Barrow, the rugged mountainous
range is beautifully fringed with timber, even to the summits of
some of its loftiest hills, agreeably chequered by cultivation, and
studded with the mansions of opulence, whose snow-white chimneys
peeping through the foliage give earnest of the national hospitality
that reigns amongst them. Indeed all writers agree, that some of the
most beautiful and picturesque scenery in Ireland is to be met with
in this division of the county and around the town of Carlow. It is a
curious remark of Mr. Wakefield respecting this county, that it has
neither a temporal nor spiritual peer resident within it; and yet,
though destitute of manufactures, it is tenanted by more wealthy people
than almost any other county in the island. It is worthy of remark
also, that the fee has been transferred more here than in any other
part of the country, and that a great part of it belonged formerly to
Quakers. Bounded on the N. by Kildare, E. by Wicklow and Wexford, S. by
Kilkenny, W. by Queen's County.
CARLOW, 39 m. from Dublin,--is a neat and flourishing town, well
situated for inland commerce on the river Barrow. Wakefield describes
it as abounding with "houses of entertainment, for almost every shop
has attached to it a house which is used as an inn." Examine its
Woollen manufactures: some slight remains of its ancient Castle,
which recently fell, a mere heap of ruins: the venerable old Ch.,
from the vicinity of which is a very extensive view, commanding a
fertile and well wooded country enlivened by the majestic windings
of the river Barrow: ruins of the very fine Abbey founded before the
English conquest: the Roman Catholic College, an extensive building,
with good gardens and a park for the students' recreation, with the
Gaol, Barracks, &c. Miss Plumptre says, that "Carlow is superior
to most towns in the kingdom in the neatness of its appearance:"
and Hall says that "the ground about it is better improved than in
many parts of England." The town and immediate vicinity present some
historical recollections; and though the English tourist may not be
much interested in the disputes of the Earls of Kildare and Thomond,
and the predatory exploits of O'More; yet events of a later date,
connected with its siege by Ireton in the civil wars, may lead to
inquiry and investigation. It was also the scene of a sanguinary
battle, though on a small scale, in the year 1798, being assaulted
by the rebels before day-break, and successfully defended by a small
party of military and the loyal yeomanry. The visitor will not omit
the pleasing domain of Mr. Cavanagh, in the immediate vicinity, from
whence the Blackstairs mountains form a striking object; though not
lofty, yet bold, bleak, and rugged. Mr. Curwen speaks highly of
the scenery in the vale between Carlow and Leighlin Bridge, with
enchanting and extensive prospects over a rich country of the most
sublime and picturesque features. This valley is about six miles
in breadth, bounded on each side by a chain of mountains finely
wooded, well inclosed, and cultivated to their summits. Villages
and gentlemen's seats to be seen on all sides, with whitewashed
cottages well sheltered by trees, and presenting a pleasing air of
rural comfort and industry. See Ardglass, 4 m. N., a high green hill,
from whence there is a most enchanting prospect of the county, and
also Kildare. On its summit is an ancient Catholic Chapel, built in
form of a cross, but much resembling a dilapidated barn: read some
justly-flattering epitaphs to the Grace family, not badly written.
At Kellystown, on the east bank of the Barrow, extensive ruins of a
Ch. said to have been first erected by St. Patrick. At Staplestown
2 m. S.E. a pleasing mansion of Mr. Bagnall, once intended to rival
Versailles, the grounds owing much both to nature and art, and watered
by the romantic little river Burrin.
LEIGHLIN BRIDGE,--is a small village about 8 m. S. of Carlow, with
remains of an ancient Castle and some monastic ruins, which have also
been castellated. The view from the bridge with the Black Castle at
one end is very fine, though the bridge itself is more venerable
than picturesque; built in 1320, by a liberal canon of Kildare. The
course of the river Barrow presents views of great fertility and
beauty, though certainly not so romantic as many smaller streams. See
Bally Ellen Castle in ruins about 8 m. S.; also Ballylaghan Castle,
which presents a gateway between two lofty circular towers, in the
style of Tunbridge Castle. Though the castle stands low, yet the
view to the westward is very fine; and, as its walls are in pretty
good preservation, it affords an amusing object of research to the
antiquary, who may ascend some ruinous staircases into several of
the apartments, and gratify his fancy by the recollection of past
times. Ballymorn Castle, 5 m. distant, is an extensive ruin standing
in a deep vale surrounded by lofty mountains. It is of the middle
ages, but has Gothic windows in the interior, and has the peculiarity
of its outer walls being perforated by a gallery from whence the
garrison could discharge their missiles through numerous loop-holes.
Only one large tower remains. Clonmore is an extensive and pleasing
ruin, presenting a good idea of the arrangements, half military half
domestic, of the earlier times, though unroofed and much dilapidated,
but rendered venerable by the covering of thick ivy that mantles its
walls, affording shelter to the birds of night. Fenough, 9 m. S.E.,
has an old Castle near the church, once a residence of the kings of
Leinster. Garryhaddon, 2 m. N.E., a deserted mansion of the Ormond
family, has an appearance of ancient magnificence, with an extensive
park and gardens. Whilst the picturesque tourist is rambling through
the Carlow mountains, he will not omit visiting a deep recess in the
Slieumargah, where stand the remains of the Abbey of Old Leighlin,
recorded in the earliest monastic legends, but now exhibiting no
remnants of architecture anterior to the 12th century, when it was
re-edified, after destruction by fire about the time of the Norman
conquest. Here was once a celebrated episcopal city; but the ruins of
the Abbey, of which the cathedral is still kept in decent repair as
a parish Ch., alone remain. The Abbey, though not very extensive, is
deserving of notice on account of its pinnacled spire and the rich
tracery of its Gothic windows, being about the time of Hen. II. or at
least re-edified after a destructive fire; but suffered to sink into
ruin since the union of the Sees of Leighlin and Ferns. On the west
side of the Ch. under some trees, see the once celebrated well of St.
Laferian, now nearly filled up, and near it a rude stone cross. The
antiquary will also find subjects of research in some old termini
or stones of memorial erected by Bishop Harlewin about 1216, as
boundaries of the liberties of the ancient city; one of these is close
by Leighlin Bridge, another near Wells, and a third on the mountains.
Ledwich gives a good engraving in his _Antiquities_. The antiquary
will derive some pleasure from a visit to a small village, St.
Mullins, about 15 m. S.E. from Leighlin Bridge and agreeably seated
on the Barrow. This place, particularly its extensive burial-ground,
possesses much sanctity in the opinions of the lower Irish, from its
antiquity, having been founded as early as the 7th century by a saint
of the name, who built the church here and was bishop of Ferns. This
episcopal eremite long inhabited the gloomy vale of Glendaloch, was
a great patriot, causing the remission of a tax of oxen, and a great
prophet also. The ruins, though not very extensive, are picturesque,
and the whole scene one of solemn meditation, backed by the lofty
mountains of Blackstairs.
TULLOW, 10 m. E. of Carlow.--A pleasant town on the Slaney. Bridge
of six arches: close to it ruins of an Abbey: Castle converted into
barracks: neat Ch. and Market-house:--taken by Cromwell after a
sanguinary siege. Hackets Town, about 7 m. N.E., a small neat village,
the scene of two violent assaults by the rebels in 1798. Mount
Leinster, about 8 m. S., deserves the sportsman's notice, for its
hares, foxes, and grouse; also a well said to be unfathomable, and
much resorted to for medicinal purposes.
MINERALS.
Limestone in great abundance.
BOTANY.
Hitherto uninvestigated.
CAVAN.
CAVAN, though an inland district, possesses more water scenery and
more diversified than any other in the island, with the exception of
Kerry; for here the tourist meets with many beautiful and picturesque
landscapes enlivened by small lakes, in some places spreading into
expanse, in others assuming the form of rivers, proceeding from the
lakes of Westmeath in their course to Lough Erne. The general face of
the county consists of eminences, which, though not very lofty, yet
rugged and uneven, afford a great variety of prospect, and swell into
mountains on the borders of Fermanagh and Leitrim. This county came
very late into civilization or even cultivation, being one of the most
celebrated in the ancient feuds and wars for its fastnesses, woods,
bogs, and all the natural impediments so formidable in warfare. It is
exactly midway between the Atlantic Ocean and St. George's Channel; but
its extremes are not more than 14 m. distant from the sea:--the tourist
will find the roads rather indifferent. Bounded on the N. by Fermanagh
and Monaghan, E. by Westmeath, S. by Longford, W. by Leitrim.
BELTURBET, about 8 m. N.W. of Cavan; built upon an eminence above the
river Erne, on which there is much romantic scenery.--See the Tower
and Market-house, and some vestiges of an ancient fortification beyond
the church. Ballyconnel, 5 m. W., is a good station for head-quarters
in viewing this end of Lough Erne. Examine Ortnacullagh mountain
for minerals and spars. Ballyhayes, though only a common village,
possesses some antique and fantastical buildings that show it to have
once been a place of considerable note. The Mansion-house is a curious
specimen of Irish feudal splendour. Near it the poor but enchantingly
situated village of Butler's Bridge. Drumlane Priory, 3 m. from
Belturbet, is now little more than a large barn used as a church, but
of considerable antiquity, being founded as early as the 6th century;
though it is probable that the oldest part now remaining is the round
tower which stands close to one corner of the sacred edifice. It was
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and long of great sanctity as a place of
sepulture; but perhaps more remarkable in its being the birth-place of
St. Maidoc, a celebrated legendary personage, respecting whose parents
these holy legends are wisely silent.
CAVAN, 54 m. N.W. from Dublin.--Sir Rich. C. Hoare describes it
as situated in a vale near a small river, and making but a poor
appearance as a county town. See the Court-house and Barracks.
Ballyhedy Bridge, about 3 m. distant, crosses the Erne, in a pleasing
country surrounded by beautiful mansions and highly improved demesnes.
Near it see Farnham, the mansion of Earl Farnham, which Wakefield
considers as one of the finest and best kept demesnes in the island.
It affords abundance of views intermixed with some lake scenery;
and the cottage at Killishandra not far distant, together with one
called Lady Farnham's, an elegant retreat on the border of a small
lake, are well worth seeing. At the latter in particular, the scenery
is exceedingly romantic, the sides of the hills being covered with
waving trees approaching close to the level of the water. Notice
the pleasing views on the river Croghan; also the neat Ch. with the
ruins of an old Castle on the western bank: also the richly wooded
demesne of Castle Sanderson, with the spacious lake and grounds
of Cloverhill, and the new mansion of Castle Hamilton. Visit the
mountain of Bruce Hill. Kilmore, 2 m. S.W., is remarkable for the
smallest Cathedral in the empire, being nothing but the parish
church: near it is Lough Outer, where stand the ruins of an ancient
Castle on a small island, remarkable as the prison of the good Bishop
Bedell, during the rebellion of 1641. Sir C. Coote observes (in his
Survey of the County), that the many beautiful islands encircled by
this charming lake are crowned with the finest timber, which their
undulating surface presents to view in a variety of shades; and their
deep recesses and romantic scenery strongly picture to the mind the
aptitude of these sequestered islands for the superstitious rites
which formerly were celebrated there.
COOTEHILL, about 9 m. N.E. of Cavan,--is a smart well-built town,
and shows the advantages resulting from the introduction of the linen
manufacture. It contains nothing very remarkable; but is a good
station for several objects in its vicinity. Baillieborough is 9 m.
S.E., close to which is a pleasant lough; also a chalybeate spring.
The view from the Ch. is good; and on the summit of a hill, between
it and King's Court, is a pool long celebrated for its antiscorbutic
qualities, the patients bathing in it and rubbing their bodies with
the mud. It well deserves the notice of the geologist and the medical
tourist. Bellamont Forest, the family seat of the Bellamonts, uniting
with Dawson's Grove, forms a tract of romantic scenery that must not
be neglected by the picturesque traveller. The views from it are very
fine; and Bruce Hill is a most striking feature in the scenery. King's
Court is a modern creation, rising fast into a thriving town, clearly
exemplifying what may be done by a patriotic landlord. In its vicinity
are several deep glens and valleys, within which flow rapid streams
affording many romantic and interesting scenes. See ruins of Castle at
Muff. Shircock, about 7 m. E., has some lakes in its neighbourhood.
About 2 m. S. visit a narrow glen, in which the mineralogist will find
much amusement. Specimens of coal and other fossils.
DALYS BRIDGE, about 12 m. S.E. from Cavan,--is a neat village, with
several pleasing objects in its vicinity. Shaalan Lake, or Lough
Shecklin, deserves a visit, being 7 m. long and 4 broad in some
places; studded on the north side with gentlemen's cottages used as
sporting-boxes, and extremely well planted: whilst on its southern
verge, amidst lofty hills and fertile cornfields, may be seen the
ruins of the ancient Castle of Ross, with the high hill or Ben of
Fore. On an island are the ruins of an Abbey.
SWADLINBAR, a neat village about 18 m. N.W. from Cavan,--has long
been celebrated for its Spa, containing sulphur, earth, sea salt, and
fossil alkali, being alterative and diaphoretic. Near it are the ruins
of a Ch.; and a little further, but in Fermanagh, is the splendid
mansion of Florence Court, a seat of the E. of Enniskillin. See and
examine Quilca mountain, with its iron mines, and a spring of good
water on its summit: its general appearance is very grand, overhanging
the valley in towering magnificence. The tourist will here be amused
with many legendary tales of feudal times, of sprites and faëry. Its
summit was the ancient place of investiture for the MacGwyres, once
the petty kings of this district.
VIRGINIA, 12 m. S.E. of Cavan,--is a small village, and in the
immediate vicinity of Lough Ramor, of great extent, studded with
islands once clothed with foliage but now denuded, yet still
possessing the ruins of several old Castles.
MINERALS.
Lead and copper mines in the town land of Mayo: also coal, various
ochres, manganese, spar, a species of jasper, iron, and some limestone.
In Quilca mountain is a very rich iron mine; and in Ortnacullagh
mountain, near Ballyconnel, lead and silver ores, pure sulphur,
fullers' earth, white and red transparent spars, and slate quarries,
with some indications of coal. There are mineral waters also at
Derrylester; sulphureous at Derrindaff; alkaline at Owen Bruin; and
also at Carrickmore. At Cootehill are rich veins of copper ore and
pyrites.
BOTANY.
_Cicuta virosa_, Long-leaved Water Hemlock:--in watery places.
_Myrica Gale_, Gale, Sweet Willow, or Dutch Myrtle:--near rivers.
_Spergula arvensis_, Small Spurrey:--in sandy places.
CLARE.
This county lies N. of the Shannon, containing also another river, the
Fergus, and possessing great capabilities from its maritime situation.
Its bays and harbours are numerous; but its coast is dangerous,
consisting principally of basaltic cliffs, which frown destruction on
the unhappy mariner who may be caught upon its lee shore. It is in most
parts mountainous, yet deficient in woody landscape; but the barony of
Burrin N. of Kilfernora is replete with rude magnificence; whilst the
lake and river scenery offers many beauties to the painter: bounded
on the S.E. by Limerick, W. by the Atlantic, N. by Galway Bay, E. by
Galway and Tipperary, and is nearly insulated by the Shannon and the
Ocean.
CLARE is a small town 4 m. from Ennis.--See the Abbey, extensive in
its ground plan and still venerable in decay, particularly a square
lofty tower lately in good preservation: it is of high antiquity,
having been founded as early as the 12th century by O'Brien, King of
North Munster, but was taken from St. Peter and St. Paul by Henry
VIII. and given to an ancestor of the Thomond family. The scene of
many sanguinary feudal battles in the 13th century. Ruins of an old
Castle 1 m. distant.
ENNIS is the shiretown, and 112 m. W. from Dublin.--Curwen observes,
that the approach to the town is delightful, on account of the
apparent comfort of the lower classes; the town itself neat and
thriving. See the neat modern Ch. surmounted by the ruins of the
venerable Abbey, one of the finest in Ireland, whose long narrow
windows, divided by stone railing, with the remnants of some delicate
carving and other architectural ornaments, are considered by Grose
as speaking its era, and the expense bestowed upon it in the 13th
century. See also the handsome Charity School. About 8 m. W. is
Callan mountain, where the antiquary may examine the tombstone, with
the Ogham inscription on Conan the Swift-footed, whose death and
burial-place are recorded in an historical tale supposed to have been
written by Ossian in the year 296. See also the Druidical altar on the
S. side of the mountain. Between Ennis and Lough Derg is Dromoland,
the venerable and antique mansion of the O'Briens, baronets. Crusheen,
5 m. N.E., has the ruins of an ancient Castle nearly surrounded by a
lake. Quin Abbey is 5 m. E., romantic and presenting a good portrait
of monastic times, with sombre cloisters, private passages, ruined
chapels, ancient monuments, and sainted statues. Near it is Spancel
Hill; Castle in ruins; 5 m. from which see Tulla Castle.
KILFENORA, 12 m. N.W. of Ennis, is on the borders of the romantic
district of Burrin. See the ancient Cathedral, with its numerous
sanctified and heraldic ornaments: statue of St. Fechnan the founder,
in the choir; seven crosses of a single stone each, with antique
sculpture. Corcomroe Abbey, a few miles to the S.W., was the scene
of many feudal battles between the O'Connors and O'Briens, of which
there are some monuments. Near it is Ennistymond, a pleasant village,
several Castles in ruins, particularly Inchiquin and Moyvore. The
tourist must not omit the extensive and astonishing prospect from
Hagshead, 1300 feet above the level of the ocean, exhibiting some
of the grandest scenes of nature: near it were wrecked part of the
Spanish Armada.
KILLALOE, 20 m. E. of Ennis,--stands in a hilly country on the
Shannon, which rolls rapidly over an irregular bed of rock. A bridge
of 18 arches leads to the town, after which the ascent is steep; but
the Cathedral stands at the bottom close to the river, and lately
fitted up in a modern style. The southern portal, North Chapel, is a
most curious and well sculptured specimen of rich Gothic architecture,
of a grotesque and irregular design, and, though evidently a doorway,
has been considered by some persons as a monument. The font has some
curious arabesque ornaments. See the Oratory, a curious specimen of
the religious architecture of the Ostmen in the 9th century, and one
of the oldest structures of wood and stone in the island. Its rude
walls are not very high, but the gables are pyramidal and lofty; and a
small room is still pretty entire, where devotees have long resorted
to offer prayers and religious bribes to the patron saint, St. Molva.
See the Salmon Fishery and Eel Weir. Whilst in this vicinity, visit
Lough Derg, and notice the bay of Skariff with a wooded peninsula,
and island of 20 acres called Holy Island, on which are a round tower
70 feet high, and the ruins of seven churches. See also the demesne
of Mr. Parker at Castle Lough, which affords to the artist a series
of extensive and charming views. Some caverns of limestone rock at
Mitchel's Town. At Cancora see the earth-works of the ancient palace
of the kings of Thomond, first erected by the famous Brian Boroimhe.
O'Brien's Bridge, a village on the banks of the Shannon, with a
bridge of 14 arches; sometimes called Montpellier, on account of its
medicinal springs of a sulphureous nature, much frequented by company
in the season. The country round not very picturesque, but improving
in cultivation, with many genteel residences: yet if the traveller in
his route from Killaloe to Limerick takes the road by Castle Connel,
which however is rather a detour, he will be amply gratified by
the interesting scenery. In the vale 2-1/2 m. from the springs, is
Coolastigue Castle in ruins; a little further Rhin Row Castle; and
beyond that Castle Troy, all emblems of the devastations of war and
time. Nearer to Limerick stands Mount Shannon, the seat of Lord Clare.
KILRUSH, about 22 m. W. of Ennis, and towards the mouth of the
Shannon,--has nothing remarkable, but forms a station for many
surrounding objects of curiosity. Towards Buncragy is a magnificent
prospect from the summit of a hill, called Paradise, looking up as
high as Limerick. Near it is the picturesque island of Canna with
ruins of an Abbey. Carrigaholt, about 15 m. W., has some remains
of an old Castle, of which many legendary tales are in existence.
Iniscattery Island, towards the mouth of the Shannon, contains the
ruins of 7 churches out of 11 erected by St. Senanus, a disciple of
St. Patrick; also a round tower 120 feet high. In monastic times the
fair sex were excluded from this island: near it is Miltown Malbay, a
watering place coming into fashion; its vicinity most interesting to
the geologist: where see the Puffing Hole, a curious cavern pervious
to the ocean, which exhibits various extraordinary phænomena.
SIXMILE BRIDGE, 15 m. E. of Ennis,--has nothing curious in itself; but
see the seat of Mount Jevers, and 2 m. distant the ruins of the once
famous Castle of Bunratty.
MINERALS.
Iron evidently exists in many parts of the county; as there are many
chalybeate springs, particularly Ballykett, Fierd, and Monmore, in
the western district: also manganese; some indications of coal; black
limestone near the mouth of the Shannon; and the earths would doubtless
repay the investigation of the mineralogist.
BOTANY.
_Adiantum Capillus Veneris_, True Maiden Hair:--on the rocky mountains
of Burrin.
_Arundo arenaria_, Sea Matweed:--on the sandy beaches.
_Asclepias Vincetoxicum_, (Lin.) Swallow Wort:--on the rocky mountains
of Burrin.
_Butomus umbellatus_, Flowering Rush:--in the vicinity of Clare and
Correfin.
_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--on sea cliffs.
_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Avens:--found in Burrin on the limestone
mountains in abundance, where scarce any other vegetable will exist.
_Gentiana verna_, Spring Gentian:--on limestone gravelly soils near
Galway Bay.
_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--in mountainous districts.
_Ricinus communis_, (Lin.) _Palma Christi_, or Greater Spurge:--in
Burrin.
_Rubus saxatilis_, Stone Bramble:--in the woods of Cratulagh.
_Satureja montana_, (Lin.) Winter Savory:--on the mountains of Burrin.
_Saxifraga granulata_, White Sengreen or Saxifrage:--in dry meadows and
pastures in Burrin.
_Senecio saracenicus_, Broad-leaved Ragwort:--near Corfin.
_Spiræa Filipendula_, Dropwort:--in Burrin barony.
_Teucrium Chamæpitys_, Ground Pine:--in the rocky mountains of Burrin.
CORK
Is the largest county in the kingdom, and is said to possess more good
and more bad land than any other. The vales fertile; well watered
with numerous rivulets: maritime also, and having a great extent of
sea-coast broken into numerous excellent harbours. Its scenery affords
great variety to the tourist, especially in the S.W. district, where a
range of lofty mountains extend to the ocean on the borders of Dunmanus
Bay. The general surface is indeed rugged and broken, but not so as to
impede agricultural labour, except in some districts, and even there
they extend cultivation by burning turf fires on the rocks, after which
they pour cold water on them and split them readily--a fact which seems
to throw some light upon Hannibal's passage of the Alps. Some of the
bogs in winter are impassable, especially on the N.W.; yet even these
are grazed in summer by immense herds of cattle. Miss Plumptre states
that a number of new roads are now making in all parts of the county,
which will much accommodate the tourist. It is bounded on the N.E. by
Waterford, N. by Tipperary and Limerick, N.W. by Kerry, the remainder
by the ocean.
BALTIMORE, 43 m. from Cork, has a good harbour; but having been
plundered and burnt by the Algerines in 1631, is become a mean
village. The country round it is rude and romantic, and there are
many ancient Castles in decay. The tourist may from hence visit Cape
Clear, the southernmost point of Ireland, on an island, where see
ruins of Dunanore Castle, with the Cave and ruined Ch. of St. Kieran.
Skibbereen, 5 m. from Baltimore, is described by Miss Plumptre as
improving in its appearance. See Market-house and Ch.; also the ruins
of Abbey Showery with ancient tombs.
BANDON, 12 m. S.W. of Cork,--is in a district not very interesting;
it is extensive but ill built. See Castle Bernard, 1 m. W., also
Dundanere Castle, and the chalybeate spring. Inishonan, a village,
with a linen manufactory and bleach-greens. Miss Plumptre praises
the scenery in the dell in which it stands, with good bridge, wooded
slopes backed by the Ch., and venerable ruin of an ancient Castle.
BANTRY, about 35 m. W. of Cork,--is situated on one of the finest
bays in the world, and was noted by the defeat of the French squadron
in 1796. The scenery amidst the mountains in which this town is
embosomed, Mr. Wakefield thinks scarcely, if at all, exceeded by any
other in the island, with the exception of Killarney. The views in all
directions are bold, wild, and romantic; especially towards the head
of the bay, which is mountainous, and abounding with scenes as rude
and wild as imagination can paint or fancy anticipate. Miss Plumptre
also describes it as highly worthy the notice of the picturesque
tourist; and Mr. Wakefield observes, that the ride to Coolranny Bridge
he thinks one of the most delightful that can be conceived. The ascent
from that place to the Gowl mountains is very fine, from the gap of
which the whole bay appears in its full extent, with lofty mountains
on the opposite shore, and Cape Clear in the distant prospect rising
above them all. Near this is Hungray Hill, 700 yards above the bay,
being 20 miles from Bantry, but amply repaying by the most extensive
prospect from its summit, whilst the falls of water down its sides in
the winter season are extremely grand. But the greatest charm in the
vicinity of Bantry is Glengariff, the road to which runs through some
fine mountain scenery, and near it is the modern mansion of Mr. White,
surrounded by extensive woods and standing on the edge of one of the
finest indentations of the bay, perfect in its form and embosomed at
the foot of lofty mountains: much of the surrounding beauty arises
from the luxuriant foliage of arbutus, holly, and birch; whilst every
turn opens a new glen, everywhere presenting varied and enchanting
scenery, beautifully contrasted by the wildness of the opposite
mountains. It is not a trifling addition to the amenity of this spot,
that the mildness of the winter only strips the deciduous trees of
their leaves for a very short time, whilst geraniums and myrtles, and
many of the tenderest plants actually remain unsheltered during the
whole year. Dursey Island in the bay has the ruins of a Castle. The
Priest's Leap is a mountainous pass leading over Mangerton towards
Killarney.
CASTLE LYONS, 15 m. N.E. of Cork.--A well built town in an agreeable
vale on the banks of the Bride river. See Lord Barrymore's mansion
erected on the ruins of O'Lehan's Castle; also ruins of a Franciscan
Abbey, 1307. Near it Kilrea Castle in ruins, to the E. of which the
venerable remains of an Abbey dedicated to St. Bridgid, about 1450,
with ancient tombs and numerous awful indications of mortality.
CASTLEMARTYR, 16 m. from Cork, a large manufacturing town.--See
the ruins of the ancient Castle, and the seat and grounds of the
Boyle family: the house itself is worth seeing, being antique and
assimilating well with the richly clad wild remains of an ancient
castle, whose venerable turrets in majestic ruin peep forth from
the thick foliage at a short distance; add to this an extensive
sheet of water, which gives life to the surrounding scenery. Let the
botanical tourist pay particular attention to the flower-garden and
green-houses, elegantly arranged under the taste and genius of the
Countess of Shannon. Visit Ballycotton Bay, with extensive strand,
good wild fowl shooting and excellent flat- and shell-fish. See there
the Ch. and Castle of Ballycrenane. About 1 m. S.E. is the river Dour,
which breaks out from a limestone rock, after a subterraneous course
of near half a mile, and forms a small lake, where the Halcyon or
Kingsfisher is found in great numbers: Charleville, 14 m. N. of Cork,
on the borders of Limerick; see Charter School, Ch. and Barracks. The
magnificent seat of the Earls of Orrery was burnt down in the wars of
the Revolution by the Duke of Berwick after dinner, like the ancient
Persepolis.
CLOGHNAKILTY, 22 m. S.W. of Cork,--is seated on a shoal and dangerous
bay. See the plain neat Ch. pleasingly situated, but the town is
described by Miss Plumptre as poor and dirty. Dundedy or Galway Head
has some curious caves worn out by the sea, also ruins of an old
Castle. Iniskean, about 8 m. N., has close to it the ruins of Kinigh
Ch. with remarkable round tower, a hexagon at the bottom and the upper
part round, 70 feet high and 124 feet from the Ch. At Temple Bryan,
1 m. distant, are some remains of an ancient Temple; near the Ch. a
stone circle with central pyramidal pillar, and two other pyramids
in the immediate vicinity. At Timoleague, about 5 m. E., see ruins
of O'Shaughnessy's Castle, and the extensive remains of a venerable
Franciscan Abbey, 1350, with numerous tombs of Irish chieftains,
Gothic cloisters, and romantic ruins of the ancient monastic
apartments: see also the Holy Well.
CLOYNE, about 16 m. from Cork.--See the Cathedral; the Bishop's
Palace; a small Castle of the Fitzgeralds; a round tower near the Ch.;
a Danish rath, and a deep extensive cave in a park near the town. 1
m. W. at Castle Mary, the seat of Lord Longueville, see the Druids'
altar, a large stone 15 feet in length, 8 in breadth, and 9 feet
from the ground. In the vicinity the mineralogist will find a white
substance tinged with yellow ochre, which does not effervesce with
acids, but forms a good white paint if mixed with linseed oil. Here
also are quarries of fine gray marble. 2 m. W. is Rostellan, the seat
of the Marquis of Thomond, with a fine view of Cork harbour, and built
on the ruins of an ancient Castle. To the S.W. see Corkbeg, a modern
seat with some ecclesiastical ruins near it. The tourist may also
proceed to the strand of Ballycroneen to visit an ancient pillar on a
hill; also Lascally, a strong moted Danish encampment; Bally Kendrick
Castle, &c.
CORK, the second city of Ireland, is 124 m. S.W. of Dublin.--Sir
Rich. C. Hoare describes it as affording more interest to the
commercial than the antiquarian tourist; and Miss Plumptre observes
that it is upon the whole recommendable to the eye only as having a
general appearance of comfort and prosperity, not as offering any
particular subjects to dwell upon. Mr. Curwen indeed views it with a
more favourable notice, and finds many things to approve. Seated on
the river Lea, the old town rising on a hill forms an amphitheatre;
in the new town some of the streets are spacious, well-built,
and handsome. See the Cathedral partly modernized; the Parade, a
spacious street with equestrian statue of Geo. II.; the Exchange;
Custom House; Botanic Garden belonging to the Literary Institution;
Barracks; extensive Porter Brewery; manufactories of Paper, Glass,
and Cloth; Market House, &c. The environs are thickly studded with
mercantile villas, and present views of happy amelioration. See
at Ballyvacadane, 4 m. from Cork, a ruined Abbey; and Ballincolly
Castle built upon a rock. Barrymore Island in the bay deserves the
notice of the geologist from the circumstance of having a stratum
of limestone running through it, although nothing but a red gritty
stone exists upon the main land in its vicinity. Blarney Castle, 3 m.
distant, must not be forgotten by the tourist. It stands on a bold
romantic rock, its walls 18 feet thick, and bore a long siege at the
Revolution, but was taken by King William's troops. Part only of the
ancient Castle remains, but with modern additions. Those who please
may kiss the well-known stone on the summit of the tower, and acquire
a perpetual license for flattery and fiction. Carigrohan Castle to
the W. has still some remains on a high precipice over the river. The
tourist may visit Cove, and the Giant's Stairs, a curious natural
production. The marine views in an aquatic excursion to Cork Harbour
are very fine; the whole of it is indeed surrounded by stations which
command the most beautiful and diversified prospects. If approaching
it direct from the sea, the grand panorama which opens to the view in
sailing up the narrow entrance, has a most striking effect: on the
right Cork Beg, a seat of the Fitzgeralds, with some Abbey ruins;
beyond it the woods of Rostellan, the seat of the Marquis of Thomond;
then Haulbowling Island, and the lofty hills to the left, forming
altogether a grand and impressive scene. Glanmire, 5 m. distant, is a
beautiful glen on a narrow arm of the sea, with neat village and Ch.
and good view of the harbour. At Monkstown see the fine old Castle on
a wooded eminence.
DONERAILE, about 16 m. N. of Cork,--has a neat Ch. with lofty spire;
see the Barracks on ruins of the old Castle; also some quarries of
variegated marble near to it. See ruins of Castletown Roche, gallantly
defended by Lady Roche against Cromwell's forces; also Carrigrocunny
Castle and romantic ruins of an ancient Abbey at Bridgetown. Castle
Saffron, 1 m. E., has several agreeable cascades on the river.
Kilcoleman Castle in ruins, 2 m. N.W., will always be interesting
to the lover of ancient British poetry, as the spot where Spenser
wrote his Faëry Queen. The scenery is magnificent, and the prospect
extensive. Monanimy, about 7 m. S., has the ruins of an old Castle and
Abbey.
FERMOY, a newly built elegant town of four streets crossing each
other at right angles, the work of a Scotch gentleman, Mr. Anderson,
is about 15 m. N.E. of Cork; with a bridge of 13 arches mantled with
ivy. See the extensive barracks; modern Ch.; ruins of ancient Castles
in its vicinity. See Ballyhooly, a picturesque village; also Castle
Hyde, a seat well wooded; and ruins of Creg Castle. Miss Plumptre and
Mr. Curwen speak highly of the patriotic improvements in this town and
vicinity.
KINSALE, 12 m. S. of Cork,--has a spacious harbour, and has been
noted from the earliest times in Irish history. It was taken by the
Spaniards in 1600, and stood a siege by the Duke of Marlborough in
James's wars. See some remains of ruined Abbeys in the town: visit
also Charles Fort, 1 m. E. in 1670. The picturesque tourist may visit
the Old Head, 4 m. S., with Light-house, and ruins of Duncearma
Castle, the old seat of Irish kings.
KILWORTH, a thriving town about 20 m. N.E. of Cork,--has some good
mountain scenery in its vicinity. Near it is Moorfield, the superb
residence of Lord Mount Cashel, also ruins of Cloughleagh Castle.
MACROOM, about 16 m. W. of Cork.--See ancient Castle built by King
John, still inhabited; also the handsome Ch. In the river Sillane the
sportsman will find good trout-fishing. At Agh-a-bollogue, see old Ch.
and Holy Well, with the stone called St. Olan's Cap, about which are
many superstitious and legendary tales. At Ballyvourney, 6 m. W., see
ruins of Ch. with stone Cross and Holy Well. At Carig-a-drohid, 3 m.
E., ruins of Castle on steep romantic rocks; and at Carrigafouky, 2
m. W., ancient ruins of MacCarty's Castle on a wild craggy precipice,
with remains of a Druidical altar. Dunda Rock, 6 m. S., has a lofty
Castle commanding a most extensive prospect. Glyncaum, or the crooked
Glyn, is a deep hollow way between steep craggy rocky walls covered
with forest trees and shrubby foliage, to the S. of which see ruins of
Magshanagloss Castle. Gougenabera, 5 m. N., on the road from Cork to
Killarney, presents most romantic scenery round the wild solitude of
its secluded lake. Near it is Inchigeela, which offers considerable
amusement to the mineralogist. At Lesecresig, on the summit of a hill
2 m. from Macroom, see an ancient cairn with Druidical altar.
MALLOW, 12 m. N. of Cork, has long been celebrated as a
watering-place. See ruins of an old Castle, Ch., and Barracks; also
bridge over the Blackwater, and ruins of an ancient Castle in the
well wooded Jephson demesne. Sir R. C. Hoare details some curious
traditions respecting it. Also Ballyellis, handsome seat of the Hare
family. At Ballynamona, 3 m. S. (so famed in Irish melodies), are
ruins of Mourne Abbey. Buttevant, a few miles distant, will amply
repay the antiquary for a visit, by the remains of its venerable
Abbey; ruins of ancient towers and other picturesque scenery: near
to it see Ballybeg, where are ruins of an ancient monastery of
Augustines. Dromagh, about 10 m. N.W., has an old Castle of the
O'Keefes, with ruins of a Nunnery: and at Kanturk, 3 m. distant, are
several remnants of castellated antiquity. Liscarrol, about 5 m. W.
of Buttevant, has an ancient Castle in ruins, and was the scene of
sanguinary battles in the civil wars. See deep hole, supposed to be
fathomless, called Kateshole. Lohort Castle is an old Elizabethan
mansion of Lord Arden, fortified in the ancient style with a moat,
having a fine terrace on its roof and surrounded with pleasing
plantations. Newmarket in the vicinity has some good mountain scenery;
and the tourist may visit Woodfort, a handsome seat, with a turret on
a hill, from whence a most enchanting prospect.
MITCHELSTOWN, a neat little town, 21 m. N.E. of Cork.--See the
magnificent seat of Lord Kingston, and the College, a liberal charity.
See in the vicinity, at Brigowne, 1 m., ruins of Ch. and round tower:
1-1/2 m., ruins of Caherdriny Castle; 2 m., ruins of Carriganoura
Castle. Castle Hyde near to Mitchelstown deserves a visit. The
grounds are extensive, and the house is curiously seated at the base
of a lofty rock. The park contains much diversified scenery, and
is traversed by the romantic Blackwater. See the marble quarries,
esteemed as handsome as any in Ireland; of a dark gray colour with
various shades, and a rich display of shells. At Skehewrinky, see
the cave in a limestone hill of dangerous descent, but beautifully
encrusted with spar and resembling a vaulted cathedral.
MIDDLETON, half way between Cork and Youghall, at the N.E. corner
of Cork harbour. See some ancient ruins of a Castle and Abbey; the
Market-house; public Freeschool, an elegant building; some remains
of Danish works and a large rath at Ballinachora. Several of the
curiosities are noticed under CLOYNE.
MILL STREET, 20 m. N.W. is a small village, with some appearance
of the linen manufacture. The roads are bad; but it has near it a
continued range of mountains that deserve investigation, particularly
two amongst them called the Papps, from their singular resemblance
to the human breast, and having two little protuberances on the very
summit of each, which enforce the resemblance more strongly: these Sir
R. C. Hoare suspects to be carnedds or Tumuli. Near it see ruins of
Clodagh Castle, feudal seat of the Mac Swinneys, once distinguished
for its hospitality by an inscription inviting all strangers to enter;
at Clondrohid, ancient Ch. and Danish encampments; and 1 m. W., on
Lessecresighill, vestiges of a Druidical altar. At Kilnamartery,
curious white rocks, at a distance resembling the ruins of a
magnificent city.
RATHCORMUCK, 12 m. N.E. of Cork, a decent town, with Ch. and neat
Market-house. See to the N. Cairn Tierna, a range of mountains
with an ancient cairn, forming a conspicuous object. Glanmire is
described by Miss Plumptre as a village in a beautiful and romantic
situation:--trace the rivulet through the deep and picturesque glen.
Glanworth has spacious ruins of an ancient Castle, and some remains
of a Dominican Abbey, with good river scenery. 1 m. distant is a most
curious sepulchral monument called Labacally or the Hag's Bed, said
by tradition to have belonged to a giantess of whom many ridiculous
fables are related. Its real history and antiquity are unknown: it
consists of several broad flag-stones supported by others, and most of
them of an enormous size, one no less than 17 feet long and 9 broad.
The whole length of this vast tomb, which is hollow underneath, is 40
feet; in breadth 14; and the whole seems to have been inclosed in a
circle of flag-stones about 14 feet from the outside.
ROSS, about 24 m. S.W. of Cork, may be visited from Clonakilty.--See
a small Gothic Cathedral; ruins of Abbey, Barracks, and neat
Market-house. Miss Plumptre describes the surrounding scenery as
extremely pretty. See curious caves in the rocks by sea side. At
Castlefreke good marine scenery. Castlehaven has ruins of several
Castles, and remains of Spanish entrenchments in Elizabeth's time.
At Dunmanway see some romantic scenery, with a curious natural wall
of rocks. Glandore Bay is a most picturesque scene resembling an
inland lake. At Kilmacabra see Lough Drine with Danish entrenchment
on hill to the E. The lough is supposed by the peasantry to have the
miraculous property of shifting all its islands on some holy day every
year. At Miros are some curious rocks and caverns; see also Mount
Gabriel with most extensive prospect, with a deep lough on its summit.
YOUGHALL, about 24 m. E. of Cork,--is noticeable as the spot where the
first potatoe was planted in Ireland. Some good scenery around it;
and cheerful in the summer as a watering place. See the Ch. a large
Gothic structure with six Gothic arches on each side of the nave;
partly suffered to decay, particularly the chancel, where there is a
very fine east window of the purest Gothic. Here are several ancient
monuments. The mineralogist will be gratified by visiting Clay Castle,
about 1 m. S.W. from the town; a bold hill, on the strata of loose
sandy clay, pieces of which falling upon the beach become a hard firm
grit like freestone.
MINERALS.
Coal is to be met with in the barony of Duhallow; in the N.W. also
iron. In Muskerry in the W. are curious red and white slaty pebbles,
and in other parts are limestone and loam with symptoms of copper. But
on the whole this district, though interesting to the geologist, is
very deficient in mineralogy.
BOTANY.
_Althæa officinalis_, Marshmallow:--at Cable Island.
_Aquilegia vulgaris_, Columbine:--plains near Kilbullane.
_Arbutus Teredo_, Strawberry Tree:--on the mountains.
_Asplenium Adianthum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden-hair:--on the
mountains.
_Asplenium Trichomanes_, English Black Maiden-hair:--on rocky soils.
_Cardamine bellidifolia_, Daisy-leaved Ladies'-smock:--on old walls
near Cork.
_Cistus Helianthemum_, Dwarf Cistus or Little Sun-flower:--on on
limestone hills near Castlemore, and in the barony of Muskerry.
_Cochlearia danica_, Danish Scurvy-grass:--on Cape Clear and elsewhere.
_Cochlearia officinalis_, Common or Garden Scurvy-grass:--on rocks near
the sea.
_Convallaria majalis_, May Sally:--on the river Bandon.
_Dianthus Caryophyllus β_, Common Pink:--on the walls of an old castle
in the market-place at Kinsale.
_Euphorbia hyberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--in the mountains.
_Helleborus viridis_, Wild Black Hellebore:--in a meadow near Doneraile.
_Hypericum Ascyron_ (Lin.), Bruges-rose:--near Ballymaloe in the barony
of Imokilly.
_Lavatera arborea_, Sea Tree Mallow:--on Cable Island near Youghall
harbour in Cork.
_Lepidium latifolium_, Dittander or Pepperwort:--near Corkbeg.
_Mentha rubra_, Red Mint:--near the head of the river Lee near Lough
Alloa.
_Nymphæa alba_, White Water-lily:--on the rivers Lee and Blackwater.
_Pimpinella major_, Great Burnet Saxifrage:--in woods and hedges on a
chalky soil about Cork plentifully.
_Pinus Abies_, Common Fir:--in the mountains.
_Sambucus Ebulus_, Dwarf Elder or Danewort:--on the lands of Rathpecan
near Cork.
_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride, or None-so-pretty:--on all the rocks
in the western districts.
_Sedum dasyphyllum_, Round-leaved Stonecrop:--on an old wall near
Blarney Castle.
_Sedum Telephium_, Orpine or Live-long:--on walls and in pastures and
hedges near Mallow and Doneraile.
_Taxus baccata_, the Yew-tree:--in several parts of Carbery.
_Vaccinium Oxycoccus_, Cran-berries, Moss-berries, or Moor-berries:--in
moorish boggy grounds.
DONNEGAL.
The N.W. extremity of Ireland, anciently inhabited by the _Rhobogdii_
and _Venicni_; but in more modern history known as Tyrconnel. The whole
of the western coast consists of a range of mountainous rocks, which in
some places throw out branches that extend to the sea, or run between
borders of sand. Between the mountains in the interior of the county
there are extensive tracts of bog, in which are the remains of immense
forests buried deep in the bosom of the vale, though at present the
tourist travels for miles without a single tree to solace his eye. One
part of the county, in the vicinity of Leichbeg and Glentes, presents a
view of most singular appearance, consisting of an almost uninhabited
waste of heath, with masses of granite protruding from the sides of the
mountains; whilst here and there, wherever a little soil can be found,
are small patches of cultivated land, with small cabins formed of dry
stone, cement being unthought of. It is bounded by the Atlantic on the
N. and W., by Tyrone and Londonderry on the E. and by Fermanagh and
Leitrim on the S.
BALLYSHANNON, about 10 m. W. of Donnegal,--presents some pleasing
scenery of beautiful landscapes, swelling hills cultivated, and
with the bay flowing up between them. These hills are extremely
picturesque, rising into various outlines, and dying away insensibly
into one another. See Bridge of 14 arches; also the Salmon-leap,
surrounded by most romantic scenery; a fine fall of water;
perpendicular rocks forming the banks of the river, with bold views
of the sea. Here also are some ruins of the once famous Castle of the
O'Donnels, the turbulent feudal chieftains of Tyrconnel; and 1/2 m.
distant, in a secluded but finely picturesque situation, the ruins
of Asheroe Abbey. In the vicinity several Danish Raths. Belleek is a
pretty village, 8 m. E. of Ballyshannon, and at the end of Lough Erne,
whose waters here form two fine cataracts under perpendicular and well
wooded rocks. Several handsome seats, particularly Castle Caldwell on
the Lough, with ruins of several ancient Castles; but in Fermanagh.
DONNEGAL, the county town, is a decayed town 111 m. N.W. from
Dublin.--It contains little worth notice, except an ancient
castellated mansion of the Earls of Arran, which with the river and
bridge is considered by Sir R. C. Hoare as forming a good subject for
the pencil. Near it are the remains of a Franciscan Abbey (1505) in
a most picturesque situation. See spacious market-place; mill-stone
quarries in vicinity. The finest view of the Bay is from the bridge of
Imber, whence towards the right is seen a lofty but distant mountain,
with cultivated fields in the foreground: at the foot of another
mountain a gentleman's seat with well grown plantations strikes the
eye; and to the left the scene is diversified by a sand bank thrown
up by the sea, and a high ridge of plantation on the western side
of the river, with the bay appearing beyond it or seen through its
waving interstices. Barnmoor pass is highly awful and grand, leading
towards Lough Esk, about a quarter of a mile wide and 3 m. long,
formed by mountains rising high on each side of a deep glen covered
with heath, and frowning in deathlike silence. Lough Derg, 6 m. E. is
remarkable for its Purgatory; founded as reported by St. Patrick, in a
small island about 130 yards long and 50 broad. The Purgatory itself
consists of a cave 16-1/2 feet long by 2 wide, so very low that a tall
man cannot stand erect in it. Around it are the remains of several
Chapels and holy circles dedicated to various saints of both sexes.
Lough Esk lies at the head of the valley which communicates with
Donnegal, and at the foot of the magnificent Ross Mountains; round
it the scenery is sometimes awfully sublime, and sometimes rich and
cheerful. The sportsman will find red deer on the hills, and char in
the lake.
INISHOWEN BARONY.--Even in Ireland, it is considered wild, savage,
and impassable, from want of good roads. But Mr. Wakefield represents
it in a very different light, and worthy the notice of the tourist.
The roads, he says, are very good; the land better cultivated than
any other part of the county; whilst the views of Lough Swilly from
it are exceedingly grand. See the agreeably situated house of the
Bishop of Derry at Faun. Let the mineralogist visit the Arigal, on
the eastern bound of the county, said to be the highest hill in the
province; it is shaped like a sugar-loaf, and contains a quantity
of mountain spar, with lead-mines in its vicinity. In this district
is the parish of Cloncha, where are some remains of a large stone
Cross sculptured with rude representations of various animals; also
part of a Druidical circle of 12 stones, 6 feet high, forming a
segment of a circle 60 feet in diameter. In the same parish see the
great peninsular rock of Dunmore. In this parish are still preserved
some traditionary fragments of Ossian. In Clonmany parish see the
picturesque scenery round the Ch.; also a round tower forming part of
the ruins of an ancient Castle; near it a castle on a pyramidal rock,
not far from which is Mamore Gap, presenting the most sublime scenery
of mountains, rocks, and ocean,--a district consecrated to the memory
of Cuchullin and the heroes of other times: a Druidical altar here, is
called Cuchullin's (or Fion Mac Cuil's) stone. Near Cromla, in this
vicinity, is the site of the ancient Tura, so famed in those scattered
traditionary fragments that form the basis of Mac Pherson's modern
Fingal.
KILLYBEGS, about 12 m. W. of Donnegal, offers some fine marine and
mountain scenery. See ruins of Abbey.
LETTERKENNY, about 25 m. N.E. of Donnegal, and 15 m. W.N.W. of
Londonderry, forms a good station for visiting the wild scenery
towards the coast. At Ards Castle, see ruins of Castle and Baltimore
Ch. Dunfanaghy has some castellated ruins in its vicinity. At
Hornhead, 28 m. W. from Letterkenny, see a remarkable cavern called
Mac Swine's Gun, on a rocky cliff 60 feet perpendicular. Of these
rocks the lower stratum is porous sandstone, hollowed into a cavern
by the violence and continual buffeting of the waves, from whence
an aperture proceeds to the summit. When the wind comes from the
N.W. the billows being driven with great violence into the cavern,
the water thus forced to find a passage through the aperture,
rises to the summit of the funnel, from whence it again descends
with a most tremendous noise. Near this is MacSwine's Castle, an
ancient edifice, now fitted up as a modern residence. See Rutland, a
modern fishing-town, worthy the notice of the statistical tourist.
Kilmacrenan, about 8 m. N., has some ecclesiastical ruins, founded
by St. Columb, of which the parish Ch. forms a part. See the rock on
which the O'Donnels, princes of Tyrconnel, were always inaugurated;
also Lough Salt, in a romantic situation on the summit of a mountain.
Murkish Mountain, situated within 4 m. of two deep and safe harbours,
Dunfanaghy and Sheephaven, affords siliceous sand in great abundance.
Rathmelton is a beautiful village on the banks of Lough Swilly: see
Sir J. Stewart's handsome seat. The scenery around is delightful; much
planting, a fine river, and every appearance of increasing industry
and comfort. W. of Rathmelton is the bridge of Loughaugh, an arch of
52 feet span. Ascend Mount Alt, on the summit of which a lake with
most extensive prospect, combining ocean and mountain scenery.
LIFFORD, 28 m. N.E. of Donnegal, is prettily seated on the river
Foyle, and is the assize town for the county. The tourist will here
find the inhabitants a complete Scotch colony.
RAPHO, 24 m. N.E. of Donnegal, was an episcopal city, but now a
dilapidated village.--See the Episcopal Palace, once a Castle which
stood a siege in the Civil Wars: also the modernized Cathedral. Near
Ballybofy see Lough Mourne, and the dreary mountains of Barnsmore.
TORY ISLAND, which lies about 3 leagues from the main, N.W. from
Sheephaven, contains the ruins of a monastery and of seven churches,
having formerly been a "station," or place of Catholic penance.
MINERALS.
Sandstone and basaltes or whinstone, with pieces of coal imbedded, are
frequent in Kilbarrow and Kildoney. Emery is also found in the same
vicinity, and the chalybeates announce the existence of iron. Lead and
iron ore are to be found in the mountains.
BOTANY.
_Galium boreale_, Crosswort Madder:--in mountainous meadows.
_Gnaphalium sylvaticum_, Upright Cudweed:--in sandy pastures and woods.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding fc._
_View from Warren Point Near Newry._]
DOWN.
The modern picture of this county, as sketched by Mr. Wakefield, is
flattering to Irish pride, and shows what may be done by industry.
He observes that in the western side in particular, the land is in a
high state of cultivation, and inhabited by a middle class of opulent
manufacturers, whose appearance and condition would do honour to any
country in Europe. Their habitations are well-built, display great
neatness, and are all whitewashed. The whole tract is embellished
with plantations; and, whether owing to the wealth created by the
linen manufacture, or the trade carried on at Belfast and Newry, every
thing exhibits evident signs of increased population and industry. The
banks of the rivers Bann and Lagan are covered with bleach-fields,
and present that cheerful and pleasing scenery which characterizes a
manufacturing country, and excites in the mind an idea of improved
civilization. The whiteness of the linen spread out in those fields,
contrasted with the greenness of the surrounding sward, produces an
effect on the eye not easily described; and the concomitant objects,
added to the bustle and activity of the people employed, render the
whole scene most interesting. In the S. the mountains of Mourne raise
their majestic heads to the sky, and afford much entertainment to the
picturesque tourist, who may visit them from Rosstrevor; and it is
a curious fact recently noticed, that a road leading to Carlingford
over one of the loftiest, is actually cut through a stratum of sea
shells (_Turbo littoreus_) of considerable depth, and more than 1 m.
in length. The roads are good in all parts, and the accommodations
comfortable. Bounded on the N. by Antrim, E. by St. George's Channel,
S. by Louth, and W. by Armagh.
BALLYNAHINCH, 10 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, seated on a small river
nearly in the centre of the county, has been long celebrated for its
sulphurated chalybeate spa, at the foot of Slieve Croob mountain
at about 2 m. dist. The vicinity is peculiarly romantic. See Ch.,
Charter-school, and Dissenting Meeting-house. See on the summit of
Slieve Croob mountain a remarkable cairn, 80 yards in circumference at
base, and 50 at top; another near Annadorn in its immediate vicinity
with a rude stone chamber in the centre. The space between Slieve
Croob and Ballynahinch is so completely occupied with rocks and
hills, that anciently it bore the name of Magheradrol, or Field of
Difficulties.
BANBRIDGE, about 18 m. W. from Downpatrick, has a bridge over the
Bann, and is in the heart of the linen manufacture. At Gilford, 5 m.
distant, is a chalybeate; and the river scenery, especially in the
vicinity of its bridge of 18 arches, deserves notice. At Warringston
see Ch. with curious roof of Irish oak; also a Danish rath.
BANGOR, a small town 21 m. N. of Downpatrick on Carrickfergus Bay. See
ruins of Abbey founded by St. Carigel (555), with Ch. (1623). Near it
is Groom's Port, where Schomberg landed with K. William's forces at
the Revolution.
COMBER, a thriving little town on Strangford Lough, 13 m. N. of
Downpatrick, with pleasant lake scenery. See ruins of Mount Alexander
Castle; fine strand at low water, and most excellent race-course. In
this place the tourist will hear much of a famous female spinner,
Anne MacQuillin, some of whose finest yarn, spun into 105 hanks to
the pound of flax, actually measured 214 English miles per pound. To
spin this required about a fortnight, and could only be done in mild
weather. At Castlereagh, 4 m., see ruins of ancient Castle. At Drumbo,
5 m. S.W. of Castlereagh, see ruins of Ch. and round tower, formerly
an Abbey founded by St. Patrick; and 2 m. N. the Giant's Ring, already
noticed as in the vicinity of Belfast. It is an ancient circle and
mound of earth 842 paces in circumference, with a Druidical altar in
the centre, consisting of four masses of stone, with a larger one
laid horizontally. On the bank are the remains of a round tower. It
is worth observing, that although there are some lofty mountains in
its vicinity, yet a person standing at the Cromlech in the centre has
his view completely bounded by the earthen mound, beyond which the sky
alone is visible, and the effect sublime. About 3 m. distant on the
banks of the Lagan is Newtonbreda, a pretty village with extremely
handsome Ch.; and near to it the elegant seat and park of Belvoir.
Saintfield, 5 m. S.W. of Comber, is an improving town; near which is a
Danish rath worth seeing.
DONAGHADEE, the station for the Scottish packets, about 22 m. N. of
Downpatrick, a comfortable town. See Gothic Ch. and new market-place.
The pier forms a pleasant walk. See the rath 70 feet high on a natural
mount, 140 feet in all. The summit is capable of holding 100 persons,
and the view, over the channel, of Scotland and the Isle of Man is
very extensive. Whilst in this vicinity, the tourist will be amused
by a marine trip to the Copland Isles, on one of which, Cross Island,
containing about 30 acres, there is a light-house constructed of
limestone found on the spot. In one of them is a cemetery with the
ruins of a Ch., also several cairns. See Portavo and ruins of Temple
Ch. on the beach, on the spot where St. Patrick landed.
DOWNPATRICK, 74 m. N. of Dublin, is the county town, pleasantly
seated on an arm of Strangford Lough. See remains of ancient Abbey
and Cathedral, boasted of as the burial-place of St. Patrick, St.
Columb, and St. Bridget: Town-hall; Market-house; Barracks; Gaol: on
the N.W. is a conical rath, 60 feet high, inclosed by 3 ramparts; the
race-ground 1 m. distant. Struel Wells, celebrated as a Penitentiary,
about 1 m. from the town. At Ardglass, 5 m. S.E. in Irish Channel,
ruins of several Castles. Ballycarn Bay in its vicinity has a
beautiful grotto under a limestone hill, with an intensely cold well.
W. of it is Ballyvaston. See an extensive tract of land, rendered
sterile by sand from the ocean. Carreg Abbey; ruins of Abbey and
St. Finian's Well are near Ardglass; also Castle Screan, built on a
Danish rath, with several Druidical remains. Coil-bridge, the Port of
Downpatrick, leads to Inis Courcey, where are some ruins of an Abbey
(1180). Killough, 5 m. S.E., is a pleasant village, with good harbour
on the Irish Channel. See Ch.; Horse-barracks; Charter-school, and
near it a mineral spring. In a rock near the shore runs an oblong
cavity, which at the ebbing and flowing of the tide emits a noise like
a hunting-horn: St. Scordin's Well gushes out of a rock on the beach,
and is never dry. Saul Abbey in ruins, with some castellated remains,
is about 2 m. from Downpatrick.
DROMORE, about 18 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, is a bishop's see, but
now merely a village.--See the very small Cathedral and neat modern
Episcopal Palace. Danish rath on hill at N. side, with a covered
passage 260 feet to the Lagan river. Chalybeate spring, said to
be good in gravelly complaints. Neat Market-house; Dissenting
Meeting-houses, &c. Dromaragh, 6 m. S.E., has some curious artificial
caves of considerable extent. S.E. towards Slieve-croob, at Leganeny,
a curious cromlech, and ancient stone cross near Drumgooland Ch.
Magheralin, 5 m. N.W., has a handsome Ch.; see marble quarries. At
Moira, 4 m. N.W., the scene of a sanguinary battle in 637, which
lasted six days, between Congal Claon and Donald King of Ireland; see
Moira Castle.
DUNDRUM, 7 m. S.W. of Downpatrick, is seated on a large bay open to
the Irish Channel--See extensive ruins of ancient Castle on a rock,
built by the Knights Templars, but dismantled by Cromwell. Here the
noble mountains of Mourne appear to great advantage. Clogh, a small
village 2 m. N.E., has a Danish rath surrounded by a broad deep fosse,
with plain strong Castle; and near it Mount Panther, seat of the
Annesleys. Castle Wellan has a small lake with pretty scenery; near
it, Briansford, a village seated midst romantic mountain landscape,
rocks, cataracts, &c. New Castle has some castellated ruins at the
foot of Slieve Donard, the highest of the Mourne mountains; and is
a much frequented sea-bathing place. The vicinity wild and sterile,
but alpine and highly romantic. S. of Dundrum, at Slidderyford, are
remains of a Druidical circle. Tullymore Park, near to it, is the
seat of the Earl of Clanbrassil, and is situated at one end of the
mountains of Mourne, and within 2 m. of the sea. The country around
it is wild and rocky, exhibiting some scenes of singular beauty in
the romantic style. Two mountain torrents join in the Park, and form
sundry cascades in their passage to the sea, into which they fall at
Dundrum Bay. The house stands in the park, and, though not lofty in
itself, yet commands a fine prospect from its elevated situation. It
is an extensive edifice with four fronts of 130 feet each, inclosing
a square area, and each front is different from the others; 10 m. from
Downpatrick.
HILLSBOROUGH, 18 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, a modern built town with
excellent inn. See elegant Ch. with stained glass windows; the mansion
of the marquis of Downshire; remains of Castle; handsome Market-house;
Maze course, 1 m. distant, one of the finest in Ireland, with a hill
in the centre. At Anahilt, 3 m. S., the sportsman will find plenty of
pike and trout in Lough Erin, and wild-fowl in the extensive bogs.
KILLYLEAGH, 5 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, stands on Strangford Lough, and
is a thriving place, with handsome Ch. &c. It was the birth-place of
the venerable Sir Hans Sloane, founder of the British Museum. See the
Castle. At Ardmillar, 6 m. N.E., is a chalybeate spring. Ringhaddy has
some remains of a Castle, and has long been famous for its oysters.
LOUGHBRICKLAND, on the Dublin road from Belfast, is about 24 m. W.
of Downpatrick, on the borders of the Jonesborough mountains, where
there is much wild scenery, and a small lake in its immediate vicinity
where the sportsman will find plenty of speckled trout. It is noted
as an encampment of K. William's army on their way to the battle of
the Boyne. From Ellenmoney, a bog near it, towards Points Pass, run
two rivers, one N. the other S. Near it and at Scarvagh are remains of
fortifications in the Civil Wars.
NEWRY, a thriving commercial town at the head of Carlingford Bay,
on the verge of the county, and about 25 m. S.W. of Downpatrick.--A
pleasant cheerful vicinity, and a good central station. See canal,
drawbridges, &c. 1/2 m. distant are the Creeve rocks, with ruins of
old Chapel. The mineralogist may here examine specimens of metallic
spar, ponderous and ferruginous. At Crownbridge, 1 m. E., a Danish
rath; and near it some Druidical remains. At Narrow-water, the port
of Newry, see ancient Castle and Salt-works. N. of it 5 m. is Tuscan
Pass, with several small lakes in which are plenty of pike. The
tourist may also visit Warren's Point, where large ships are obliged
to lie, and where the whole line of coast presents a continuation of
gentlemen's houses and whitened cottages, enlivened in the bathing
season by numerous parties.
NEWTONARDS, a comfortable town at the head of Strangford Lough, about
18 m. N. of Downpatrick. See venerable Ch., with some vestiges of
an ancient monastery at Moville 1 m. distant. Gransha, about 5 m.
E., has a good chalybeate, stronger than Tunbridge Wells, but little
frequented being in a wild boggy district. Not far distant is Grey
Abbey on the E. shore of the Lough, founded by a daughter of one of
the kings of Man, whose statue is still preserved. Part of it is
fitted up as a parish Ch., and the E. window is a noble specimen of
Gothic tracery. About 1/2 m. S. of Newtonards is Scraba mountain,
lofty, but cultivated nearly to the summit. Near to it are good
freestone quarries; and 2 m. N. a loftier hill, sometimes confounded
with it, called Karn Gaur or the Goat's Mount. The vicinity is famous
for goat's whey. See Mount Stewart.
PORTAFERRY, 10 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, is a town of some trade at the
mouth of Strangford Lough.--See ancient Castle of the Savages; Ch. and
two curious chapels. Near it is Echlinville. At Kirkistown, 4 m. N.E.,
ancient Ch. of Slane, and ruins of Castlebuy.
RATHFRYLAND, about 21 m. W. of Downpatrick, is a large pleasant
village.--On summit of a hill see ruins of a Castle. The country round
it is very agreeable. See village of Hilltown: Lissize, seat of E.
Clanwilliam; and Turkelly's Well, 2 m. N., a celebrated chalybeate for
scrophulous complaints.
ROSTREVOR, about 22 m. from Downpatrick, is considered the Brighton
of Ireland as a watering-place, and highly extolled for its romantic
scenery; being seated on a well wooded bank on a small arm of the
sea, which stretches into the country from Carlingford Bay. Sir R. C.
Hoare describes the entrance to it as very striking on approaching
from Dundrum; Carlingford Bay being so landlocked and surrounded
by mountains as to resemble a large lake; and the tourist, passing
through an irregular grove of tall and aged ash trees, with the sea
and whitened houses glimmering between them, finds here a truly rural
village retirement, commanding within its immediate vicinity more
beauty than the generality of sea places; a dry soil, shady walks,
diversified rides, and good bathing. He describes the most striking
feature of this place to be a lofty mountain covered chiefly with oak
wood, feathered down to the water's edge; underneath which is a little
quay, from whence there is a walk of 3/4 m. along the banks of the bay
completely arboured by oak trees, with a good road continued along
the coast under the Mourne Mountains to Dundrum Bay. We recommend
this spot more particularly to the tourist, as Sir R. C. adds that
he has seen no place with a more pleasing combination of rural
beauties; mountains agreeably varied with wood, heath, and down, on
one side; others on the opposite coast (Louth) singularly cultivated
in small portions or strips resembling a quilt of patchwork; between
them an extended channel of water, on the banks of which is the town
of Carlingford with its ruined Abbeys and Castle; a purling brook,
fine trees, neatly whitened cottages, &c. and a clean good inn. Miss
Plumptre speaks of it in equally picturesque and admiring terms. 1 m.
see ruins of Kilbreny Ch. The tourist may examine a romantic mountain
road to Rathfyland; and the mineralogist will find ample amusement on
the lofty mountains of Iveagh and Mourne, which extend far to the E.
along the Irish sea.
STRANGFORD, 7 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, is a small but very ancient
town, at the entrance of the Lough.--See Charter School, and ruins of
Castle Audley, and Walsh's Castle, from the former of which there is
a most extensive view over the bay. Kilclief Castle has considerable
remains. The Lough possesses some very fine scenery, especially
towards its entrance, where through tracts of hilly grounds the Irish
Channel is seen at intervals and the lofty hills of the Isle of Man.
The town of Strangford in the bottom is pleasantly situated amongst
trees, contrasting well with the bold mountains of Mourne in all their
sublimity. Near is Castle Ward, the seat of Lord Bangor, with the
peculiarity of two fronts, one Grecian the other Gothic. See the fine
grounds and extensive prospects.
MINERALS.
Copper ore in several places amongst the mountains. Lead in a mine
near Newtonards; rich specimens of ore amongst the rocks at Killough;
near Dundrum; and Portaferry.
Freestone quarries at Scraba and Kilwarlin; and slates at Bangor and
other places. The mineralogist and geologist will find much amusement
in the limestone quarries near Moira, containing specimens of marine
exuviæ.
Granite amongst the Mourne Mountains.
Iron has not been found in ore, but the numerous chalybeates attest its
presence.
BOTANY.
_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Black Maiden-hair:--on the mountains of
Mourne.
_Fucus esculentus_, Broad esculent Sea Wrack:--on submarine rocks and
stones.
_Galega officinalis_, (Linn.) Goat's Rue:--in the western parts.
_Juniperus communis_, Common Juniper:--on Mourne and Scraba.
_Juniperus Sabina_, Savine:--on the Mourne mountains.
_Lycopodium alpinum_, Mountain Club Moss:--in the Mourne district.
_Lycopodium clavatum_, Common Club-moss:--on the Mourne mountains.
_Nymphæa alba_, White Water Lily:--among the lakes in the western parts.
_Orobus sylvaticus_, Bitter Vetch:--in woods and hedges near Rosstrevor.
_Pyrola rotundifolia_, Wintergreen:--on Scraba.
_Serapias longifolia γ_, a variety of White-flowered Bastard
Hellebore:--on a rotten bog by a lough side near Ballinahinch.
_Teucrium Scordium_, Water Germander:--in marshy places about Granshaw.
_Valantia cruciata_, Crosswort:--among the rubbish of the Cathedral of
Downpatrick.
DUBLIN.
This county offers to the tourist a complete epitome of the whole
Island. In the northern district are many bogs, yet in various points
the most beautiful scenery opens to the view, presenting numerous
villages with highly ornamented mansions and villas scattered around;
except in some few spots, trees indeed are wanting; and extensive salt
marshes spread towards the coast. S. of the Liffey there is very little
tillage, but to the picturesque eye this is amply compensated by the
wild uncultivated heaths, rocky mountains, winding glens, and sombre
landscapes that extend on every side. The ancient inhabitants were the
_Voluntii_ and _Eblani_; after them came the _Danes_ and _Ostmen_;
in later times the county was always within the English pale. The
Irish sea bounds it on the E., on the S. Wicklow, W. Kildare, and N.
Eastmeath.
BALRUDDERY, 15 m. N. of Dublin, lies on the coach road, and, though
but a village in decay, may form a temporary station for the tourist
to examine the northern district; or he may stop at the Man of War
Inn, 2 m. nearer to the capital. Balbriggan, is a good fishing village
2 m. distant; see Cotton Manufactory; and the mineralogist may examine
the veins of sparry micaceous stone, of copper, and sulphur, recently
discovered. Near the sea coast is Baldungan Castle, now a mass of
ruins, having been taken and dismantled by Cromwell; yet enough
remains to give interest to the legendary stories connected with it.
Its architecture is of the 13th century, combining the domestic with
the castellated form as a baronial residence, and said by tradition
to have contained a nunnery and a friary within its walls, whose
religious occupants sought protection here during the intestine
warfare of early times. The situation is pleasant, with a most
extensive view in all directions; and there still remain two large
towers at the west end with a parapet in front that covers the passage
between them, the whole richly mantled with ivy: besides which many
of the domestic apartments may be traced in the adjoining building,
the approach to which is by staircases in the towers, leading also
to the battlements. See also the Chapel and cemetery. At Grace Dieu
are some remains of a Nunnery (1190). Holm Patrick has some venerable
remains of a Ch. dedicated to the tutelar saint, who made this place
his residence. Naul, a small village 14 m. N. from Dublin, upon the
borders of Eastmeath, deserves a visit to its very beautiful glen,
whose romantic rocks, cascade, and rugged caves, are finely contrasted
by the picturesque ruins of its ancient castle. See the waterfall
called the Roches, and ruins of Snowton Castle. Patrick's Isle has the
ruins of an ancient Ch.
DUBLIN, says Sir R. Hoare, is more remarkable for its fine public
buildings than for its squares or streets: the latter, though planned
upon an extensive scale, want neatness and symmetry; but the former
unite elegance of design and grandeur with good execution. As this
is probably the first spot visited, we may observe that the view
in approaching the bay is delightful. On the left is seen a rich
and well-cultivated bank covered with villages and cottages, and
backed by the Wicklow Mountains, towering to a considerable height
and fading into the purple of distance. To the southward are seen
Sea View and the Black Rock, about 4 m. from the capital, studded
with white cottages for summer residents; to the north a more level
country extends towards the Hill of Howth covered with villas, amongst
which is the architectural _bijou_ belonging to Lord Charlemont,
known by the name of Marino. On approaching the harbour the stranger
is agreeably struck with the appearance of commercial activity, the
range of shipping extending nearly a mile into the city, their masts
resembling an immense forest. As he advances the scene becomes more
interesting; but to enable him to investigate it at his leisure we
shall arrange all the objects of curiosity alphabetically under their
various heads.
The _Bridges_ are numerous, convenient, and the new ones elegant.
Carlisle bridge forms a magnificent junction of the finest streets in
the city. Essex bridge, near the Castle, is a miniature of Westminster
bridge. Sarah bridge of one arch, 104 feet span, is compared to the
Rialto at Venice. The quays are well built and extensive; but the
river is an unpleasant object except at high water.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding del. et fc._
_Dublin from the Circular Road._]
The _Churches_ are very numerous, besides Meeting-houses, and
Catholic-chapels. Christ Church, the Priory of the Holy Trinity, is of
ancient date, erected by a Danish prince in 1038, and much enlarged
by the addition of various chapels by adventurers in the reign of
Hen. II. Here they show a monument, said to be that of Strongbow Earl
of Pembroke, the principal invading chieftain; an opinion certainly
confirmed by Sir Henry Sydney, in 1570, who restored the monument after
it had been broken by the fall of the roof; but Leland asserts that
in his time an inscription in Gloucester Cathedral expressly stated
that to be his place of sepulture. To the left of the high altar,
see a costly marble tomb of an Earl of Kildare, in 1743; opposite
to this, one of Secretary Agard in 1577; also the singular musical
epitaph of Dr. Woodward. The architecture of the exterior is various,
Saxon and Gothic; the inside an incongruous mixture of Gothic and
Grecian. The Round Ch. deserves notice for the singularity of its form;
and St. Catherine's on the S. side of Thomas-street has a handsome
modern front. St. Patrick's Cathedral is a fine object of ancient
ecclesiastical architecture, but surrounded by filth and poverty of the
most disgusting kind. It is of various dates, from 1190 down to 1750,
when the lofty spire was erected; and part, including the steeple, was
re-edified in 1370, after partial destruction by fire. The Virgin's
Chapel is of the year 1271; but the whole is now in such a ruinous
state that Sir R. C. Hoare fears its speedy downfall. He recommends
the Chapter-house and choir as the best specimens of its architecture.
On the right of the altar see the very curious monument of the Boyle
family, rising nearly to the ceiling; on the opposite side, the tomb of
Lord Ranelagh; a tablet to the memory of Dean Swift, and near it one
for Stella; another to Sir H. Wallop; and a bust of the celebrated but
eccentric George Falkner.
The _Hospitals_ are numerous and well regulated. The principal are,
the Blue-coat Hospital at Oxmanton Green, for sons of decayed freemen;
Foundling, spacious and airy; Kilmainham, for soldiers, on the plan
of Chelsea on a grand scale; Magdalen, in Leeson-street, with Sunday
service; Marine School, on Rogerson's Quay; Incorporated Society's
Establishment, in Lower Bagot-street, for females educated at public
expense, until apprenticed; with many others.
_Literary Societies._--The Institution in Sackville-street has a good
library, lecture- and news-rooms; good collection of minerals and
marbles. The Dublin Society has a fine Museum of Natural History,
particularly in minerals; good library, laboratory, lecture-room,
exhibition of paintings; Botanic Garden at Glasnevin, and Observatory
at Dunsink. Royal Irish Academy has literary meetings every Monday.
_Private Edifices_--are not very numerous. See Charlemont House;
Leinster House, fine Corinthian front, rusticated, and Doric wings;
Waterford House in Marlborough-street.
_Public Edifices._--The barracks consist of 4 noble squares. The
Castle, mean on the outside but splendid within, contains Public
offices, an Arsenal and Armory; elegant modern Gothic Chapel, and
Bermingham's Tower. Commercial buildings on N. side of Dame-street.
To see the Custom House with striking effect, it must be viewed from
the opposite side of the river, where the statues and decorations
present a fine spectacle. The internal arrangements deserve notice.
The long room is 70 feet square and of course a practical bull. The
Exchange merits peculiar architectural attention, being a fine rotunda
within a square, having in the interior 12 fluted pillars of the
Composite order, 32 feet high, with a highly enriched entablature
crowned by a handsome dome. The Law Courts form a magnificent pile;
the approach grand, the hall noble, and the arrangements well suited
to the purpose. Sir R. C. Hoare objects to the architectural effect
produced by the dome, especially when viewed from the opposite side
of the river. See the Linen Hall. The Parliament House, no longer
used for its original purpose, presents a façade of fine architecture
perfectly in unison with the handsome front of Trinity College. Post
Office in Sackville-street. Stamp Office occupies an elegant mansion
in William-street; once Powerscourt House. Trinity College forms a
very striking object when approached from Dame-street. The tourist will
notice the fine effect on entering the principal court, particularly of
two elegant stone buildings with correspondent Corinthian porticoes on
the right and left. See the Library, a magnificent room, surpassed only
in Sir R. C. Hoare's opinion, by that of Trinity College at Cambridge:
it is 269 feet long, 50 broad, and 40 high. The æra of the University
is the reign of Elizabeth, but the edifice itself is modern. A handsome
but not very extensive park belongs to the University, in which, see
the celebrated Anatomical School, with wax preparations; also the
Museum and the Provost's House.
_Public Places_ are not very numerous. The Rotunda in Rutland-square,
attached to the Lying-in Hospital, is open as a promenade with balls,
concerts, &c. The Theatre Royal (Crow-street) is gloomy on the outside,
but highly embellished and convenient within.
The _Squares_ and _Streets_ are often spacious. College Green has a
statue of K. William III. in the centre. Fitzwilliam Square, small
but pretty. Merrion Square, open and airy, with some good buildings.
Mountjoy Square enjoys a most extensive prospect, and is elegantly laid
out. St. Stephen's Green is the largest square in Europe. Sackville
Street is also the widest street, having been originally a Mall, with
houses built on each side. Great, however, as these are, Sir R. C.
Hoare passes on them some severe criticisms, by no means unfounded.
In the _Environs_, see the Royal Canal and City Basin; ride round the
circular road for good views of the city; visit the light-house at the
extremity of a pier upwards of 3 m. in length; and ride over the Phœnix
Park, 7 m. in circumference.
_Excursions_ from Dublin, to the extent of a day's ride, may be
arranged in 4 directions, N.E., S.E., S.W., and N.W.
In the N.E., Beldoyle is a pleasant little village 6 m. near the Hill
of Howth, with enchanting marine prospects. Clontarf, a neat village
2-1/2 m., a fashionable bathing-place. Here fell Brian Boru, the Irish
king, in a battle with the Danes (1014). See the Castle and Ch.; also
some lead ore in the neighbouring quarry. Drumcondra, a pleasant
village, nearly unites with Dublin on the northern verge. The old Ch.
is neatly modernized, and contains a handsome monument to the memory of
Mr. Coghill, Chancellor of the Exchequer in the last century; but the
picturesque tourist will be more interested by the g
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