Campaigning in Kaffirland; Or, Scenes and Adventures in the Kaffir War of 1851-52
by William Ross King · English · Gutenberg #48550 · 610,893 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: Campaigning in Kaffirland; Or, Scenes and Adventures in the Kaffir War of 1851-52
Author: William Ross King
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Language: English
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMPAIGNING IN KAFFIRLAND; OR, SCENES AND ADVENTURES IN THE KAFFIR WAR OF 1851-52 ***
[Illustration:
CAMP UNDER THE AMATOLAS.]
CAMPAIGNING
IN KAFFIRLAND
OR
Scenes and Adventures
IN
THE KAFFIR WAR OF 1851-2.
BY
CAPT. W. R. KING,
74TH HIGHLANDERS.
With Illustrations.
LONDON
SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET.
1853.
PREFACE.
The following pages make no pretension to a detailed history of the
military operations of the Kaffir War. Written during leisure hours, in
a lonely fort, or by the camp fire after the fatigues of the day, and
mainly embracing the movements of one Division only--often of a Single
Brigade or Corps--they attempt merely to convey a general idea of the
country, and of the scenes and passing events of the Campaign. Should
any comrade who shared its dangers and hardships peruse this account,
it is hoped he will also share the feeling which first prompted the
Author to record them in the Field and now to present the narrative to
the public--
"Hæc olim meminisse juvabit."
_Largs, November, 1853._
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Ordered to the Cape--Voyage Out--Bay of Biscay--Simon's Bay 1
CHAPTER II.
State of the Country on Arrival--Causes of War--Commencement of
Hostilities by Kaffirs--Defection of Hottentots--Outrages on
Settlers 7
CHAPTER III.
Landing--March up the Country--Coega River--Addo Bush--Quagga
Flats--Assegai Bush--Grahams Town--Insurrection at
Theopolis--Night March--Destruction of Rebel Camp--Route for
Kaffirland--Ecca Pass--Fort Brown--Waggon Driving--Fort Hare--Preparation
for the Field 18
CHAPTER IV.
Advance into Kaffirland--Camp at the Amatolas--Attack on the
Amatolas--Fort Beaufort--Yellow-Woods--Return to Fort Hare--Clu
Clu--Camp on the Koonap River--Waggon Escort--Sand
Storm 44
CHAPTER V.
Reit Fontein--March to Somerset--Klip Fontein--Night March to
Attack the Kromme--Bivouac on Kromme Heights--Standing
Camp--Escorting Commissariat Supplies--Action on the Kromme
Heights--Torture of Prisoners by Kaffirs--Witch Doctors--Return
to Fort Beaufort--Sickness among the Troops--The Route--Band
and Mess--Fingo Levies 75
CHAPTER VI.
Attack on the Waterkloof--Night Ascent of the Kromme--Engagement
on the Waterkloof Heights--Bivouac after the Fight--Descent
into Waterkloof Valley--Operations on the Heights--Halt
for Supplies 103
CHAPTER VII.
Fourth Attack on Waterkloof--Eve of the Attack--Advance of Colonel
Fordyce's Brigade--Burning Village--Difficulties of Ground--Advantages
of the Kaffirs--Fall of Lieut.-Col. Fordyce and Lieut.
Carey--Carrying Position--Kaffir Skirmishers--Bivouac on Mount
Misery--Transport of Wounded--The Funeral--Hospital--Death
of Lieuts. Gordon and Ricketts--Clearance of Waterkloof--Descent
from the Heights--General Orders--Sunday at Beaufort 142
CHAPTER VIII.
Cattle Lifting--Fingoes Feasting--Kaffir Habits and Religious
Notions--Language, Customs, Dress, Ornaments, Food, Weapons, &c. 161
CHAPTER IX.
Night Attack on Camp--Disposition of Troops on Frontier--Ride into
Beaufort--Ambuscade--Post Retief--Movements of General
Somerset--Sunday--Life at the Post--Visit to Dutch
Laagers--Patrols--Skirmish with Kaffirs under Macomo--Ruined
Settler--Deserted Farms--Dutch Hospitality--Vintage--Kaffir Night
Signals--Cobra Capello--Riding on the Veldt 173
CHAPTER X.
Kaffir Hiding-place--Bushman Paintings--Cattle
Stealing--Pursuit--Locusts--Fingo "Post Party"--Maize
Thrashing--Burning Plains--Success of Trans-Kei Expedition--Patrol
of Koonap District--Narrow Escape--Return to Fort 195
CHAPTER XI.
Destruction of Kaffir Crops--News from Head-Quarters--Reinforcements
from England--Wreck of the "Birkenhead"--Arrival of
Tylden's Detachment at Post--Preparations for Attack on
Waterkloof--Disposition of Troops--March--Skirmishing--Rifle
Shooting--Operations in Waterkloof--Taking of Macomo's
Stronghold--Dispersion of the Enemy--Visit from a friendly
Chief--Farewell of Sir H. Smith--Shelling the Kloofs--Chase after
Kaffirs--Porcupines--Blinkwater Camp--Bushneck Pass--Covering Rifle
Brigade--Public Funerals of Officers of 74th--Bivouac in
ruined House--Snakes--Escape from Kaffirs--Rifle Brigade
Camp--Attack on Captain Moody's Escort--Grahams Town--Lakeman's
Volunteers 208
CHAPTER XII.
Sixth Attack on Waterkloof--Movement of Troops--Peep into Kaffir
Village--Rainy Season--Fort Fordyce--Gallop after stolen Cattle--Quarters
at Beaufort--Movement against Kreli--Forelaying
Kaffir Pass--Ruins of Auckland--General Uithaalder and Staff--False
Alarm--Young Locusts--Deaths in Hospital--Return of
Kei Expedition 241
CHAPTER XIII.
Final Attack on Waterkloof--Ascent of Pass--Operations--Kaffir
Prisoners--Fingo Notions of Warfare--Bush Manoeuvres--Return
to respective Camps--Pig Stalking--Baboons--Reconnaissance
of the Ground of the Kromme Operations--Night Bivouac
on the top of the Kromme--Lieuwe Fontein and Life at a Frontier
Post--Cattle Raid--Puff Adder--Young Locusts--Fingo Fight 260
CHAPTER XIV.
Expedition across the Great Orange River against the Basuto Chief,
Moshesh--Object of Expedition--Preparations for the March--Fort
Armstrong--Elands Post--Tambookie Herdsmen--Kamastone--Twa
Taffel Berg--Vast Plains--Dutch Farm-house--Stormberg--Intense
Cold on the Mountains--Burghersdorp--Camp by Night--First
Sight of the Orange River--English Mail--Fishing in the
Caledon River--Herds of Wild Game--Wildebeest Hunt--Immense
Frogs--Return of a missing Officer--Dung Beetles--Platberg--Barolong
Chiefs--Interview with Moshesh--Ride
through Basuto Villages--Jerboas--Arrival of part of fine of
Cattle--Basutos--Action at Berea--Moshesh's Letter to the
Governor--Distribution of captured Cattle--Return of the Force 280
CHAPTER XV.
March down the Country--Christmas Day--Flocks of migratory
Storks--Herds of Game--Flood in the Orange River--Narrow
Escape in crossing--Return to the Colony--Fort Beaufort--Termination
of the War--Homeward Bound 321
LIST OF PLATES.
CAMP UNDER THE AMATOLAS _Frontispiece_
STORMING THE AMATOLAS p. 49
DEATH OF LIEUT.-COL. FORDYCE 146
BLINKWATER AND WATERKLOOF HEIGHTS 224
CROSSING THE ORANGE RIVER 295
CAMPAIGNING IN KAFFIRLAND.
CHAPTER I.
ORDERED TO THE CAPE--VOYAGE OUT.
The service companies of the 74th Highlanders were under orders to
sail from Cork for Gibraltar early in March, 1851. Our heavy baggage
had already been sent by a sailing vessel to anticipate our arrival,
H.M.S.S. "Vulcan" lay at Queenstown ready to take us on board, and
the all-engrossing topics were the cork-woods of Andalusia, yachting
in the Bay of Algesiras, or the chances of future quarters among the
olive-groves of Corfu; when, in consequence of tidings received by
government of the serious aspect of affairs in British Kaffraria, and
the urgent demands of Sir H. Smith for fresh troops, our orders were
suddenly countermanded, and, at three days' notice, we were steaming
out of harbour for the seat of the Kaffir war.
We weighed anchor on a bright Sunday morning, March 16th, after a
hasty scramble in the short time left us to lay in stores for the
additional length of voyage, and get an outfit of rifles, pistols,
saddles, and camp equipage; with a few shirts, boots, and other
articles for the use of the outer man, absolutely necessary to supply
the loss of our unlucky baggage, by that time some hundreds of miles
away in a different direction. No friends or relatives accompanied
us on embarkation to say farewell; no pressing of hands or waving
handkerchiefs. Lounging groups of Sunday-dressed sailors smoked
and looked on in indifference; the bells rang out merrily, and the
church-going crowds wended their way along the quiet sunny streets as
usual.
The sister service, however, bade us a hearty farewell; having got
steam up, and sails set, in less than forty minutes after the Admiral's
signal, three-times-three lusty cheers burst from the manned yards and
rigging of the "Ajax" and "Hogue," as we swept swiftly past, which were
returned with such right good will, that we made but a very hoarse
return to a last parting cheer from the forts at the mouth of the
harbour.
The church bells softened and died away in the distance; streets,
villas, and shipping grew indistinct; the fast-receding shores dwindled
to a narrow strip; the long blue undulating line sank below the
horizon; and we were fairly standing out to sea.
We steamed away, ate and drank, and preached to the fishes
occasionally, as the breeze freshened rather disagreeably; until, on
entering the Bay of Biscay, it began to blow in hard earnest, and by
the fourth day had risen to a furious gale; mountains of waves reaching
often to the yard-arms, and squalls coming on so suddenly, as to cause
serious fears lest the masts should go overboard. At last it blew a
perfect hurricane, with such a tremendous sea running as I had never
witnessed in crossing the Atlantic before. In the height of the howling
din and confusion, the tiller ropes broke, and were righted, after some
time, with great difficulty. All night the violence of the storm was
unabated; the sea washed the decks every other wave; the tiller ropes
again gave way, and once more we were drifting before the tempest. It
was impossible to stay below in such a state of peril and uncertainty,
and all the officers assembled on deck. The roaring of the wind through
the rigging was so deafening, that we could not make ourselves heard,
and all stood in silence watching the storm. One of the sailors aloft,
whose perilous position we had been remarking, was jerked off the
main-topsail yard-arm, and falling on the deck with a fearful crash,
was killed on the spot. The foretop-mast was sprung, and immediately
afterwards the mess-room ports were stove in, and floods of water
poured through, and surged from side to side of the cabin with the
heavy rolling, breaking over the table at every lurch. By the glimmer
of a single lamp, officers and men hazarded neck and limbs in desperate
attempts to secure, and lash together, the large hampers, chests, and
heavy casks of sea-stores, which were dashed violently up and down the
stateroom.
After seeing all secured, and making a meal of biscuit and salt beef as
we stood, bare-legged and soaked to the skin, we waded to our flooded
berths, and turned in for the night, though the uproar was so terrific
that it was impossible to sleep. In the midst of the din, came another
astounding crash of barrels and chests broken loose; some bursting
through the cabin doors as if they had been chip. Officers and men,
dressed and undressed, turned out, and all were again at work lashing
and making fast.
In the morning, the jolly-boat, weighing about a couple of tons, was
found high above the davits, blown against the rigging, and a valuable
charger of the Colonel's killed. All this time, the wind was dead on
the north coast of Spain, and we were obliged to wear ship constantly,
driving about between Ushant and Scilly, till at the end of eight days
we had the peculiar satisfaction of finding ourselves a trifle nearer
England than on the first.
"Post nubila Phoebus." After the black and angry Bay of Biscay, the
sunny tropics. The gale moderated, and by the 6th of April we had
entered the torrid zone; awnings were spread on deck, and the band
played in the evenings, which closed with the most gorgeous sunsets.
The only land seen since leaving port, was St. Antonio, one of the
Cape de Verde islands, about twenty miles off, which we sighted as the
setting sun lit up its rugged sides with the richest tints of purple
and gold.
On the 16th we crossed the Line, where, with grave circumstance and
ceremony, the uninitiated were made freemasons by Neptune and his
court in person, after being well lathered with pipe-clay and mops,
shaved with three-feet razors, soundly ducked, and afterwards rinsed
by liberal applications of the fire-engine hose and water-buckets. On
reaching the southerly "trades" we were right glad to get rid of the
stifling heat, and clanking of the engine, and spread canvass once more.
A succession of tropical calms, in which we were, nearly roasted;
and tropical showers, in which we were as nearly drowned, ensued.
The beautiful "Southern-cross," "Centaur," and other, to us new,
constellations, now shone out nightly with surpassing brilliancy;
and bonetas, sharks, dolphins, Cape-pigeons, and albatrosses, with
flying-fish innumerable, played around the ship day after day; some of
the latter gratifying our curiosity by a visit through the ports.
After a monotonous voyage of more than seven weeks, we, one fine
evening, sighted what the landsmen took to be a hazy bank of cloud in
the extreme horizon, but the sailors declared most positively to be
land, with so many and extraordinary maledictions on themselves and
personal property generally, that they ought to have felt considerably
relieved when daylight the following morning put it beyond a doubt.
Long before the hour of breakfast, our usual meet, every one was on
deck gazing at the distant mountains and bold headlands of the Cape,
which rapidly grew more distinct as we approached them with a fresh
breeze in our favour, a magnificent sea running mountains high. Late in
the day the scattered houses became visible along the welcome shore,
and we entered Simon's Bay.
The little town--a group of flat-roofed white and yellow houses, with
Venetian shutters and wide verandahs--is prettily situated at the foot
of a mountain, fringed with bushes. American aloes and cactus form
luxuriant hedges round the gardens, and flourish to an immense size;
picturesque groups of swarthy Malays, in huge beehive-shaped hats,
or red and yellow bandanas, gazed at us from the shore, or pulled
alongside, vociferating in Dutch, and offering melons, pumpkins, eggs,
and fruit, for sale.
Next day we went ashore, while the women and children were being
disembarked to remain behind at Cape Town, and the rest of our camp
equipage was got on board, and took advantage of the opportunity to
make a rapid survey of the immediate neighbourhood, and stretch our
legs after nearly two months imprisonment on board ship. As we strolled
along the street we were much struck with the skill and ease with which
the native Africanders drove their waggons, eight and ten in hand,
full trot round the most difficult corners, an assistant wielding an
enormous whip with both hands; and during our rambles were delighted to
find the most exquisite specimens of our greenhouse _ericas_ wild on
the mountain sides. The evening was warm and lovely, and the perfume
of the creepers and flowering trees most delicious, as we walked in the
bright moonlight; not a sound was heard but the rippling of the waves
and the shrill cry of the cicada, and we very reluctantly left the
refreshing repose of the quiet shore to go on board again.
The following morning, at a signal from the Commodore, we steamed out
of the harbour, and shaped our course for Algoa Bay, a run of about
three hundred miles, along a wild, and almost uninhabited coast.
CHAPTER II.
STATE OF THE COUNTRY ON ARRIVAL.
On arriving in Simon's Bay our first anxiety, of course, was to
learn the latest tidings from the seat of war, which fully confirmed
the unfavourable intelligence that had led to our sudden change of
destination. The natives were in open rebellion, plundering the
frontier farms, attacking post after post, and committing the most
deliberate outrages and murders; and all the efforts of Sir Harry
Smith to check them were comparatively ineffectual without fresh
reinforcements, which he was now anxiously expecting.
It was at last but too evident, even to the most sanguine advocates
of peace, that all hopes of such a desirable consummation being
permanently effected in the colony were at end, so far as depended on
any promises or treaties of the faithless Kaffirs. The experiment had
been fairly tried again and again, and had as often failed. Never had
there been such encouragement to hope for ultimate success as in the
decided improvement and progress effected during the few years which
had elapsed since the last war, after the conferences of December 24,
1847, and January 7, 1848, at King William's Town.
At the conclusion of that war it was found absolutely necessary, for
the future safety and peace of the colony, to extend the frontier
line of our possessions to the Great Kei River, including the large
district named British Kaffraria, which, with the lately "Ceded
Territory," were declared to be forfeited by the vanquished Kaffirs, as
the penalty of their rebellion. In point of fact, however, they were
left in possession of the country, each tribe, with their respective
chiefs, being assigned to different districts, the whole under a system
of government by local magistrates or commissioners, who were again
subordinate to Colonel Mackinnon, the Commandant and Chief Commissioner
at King William's Town. The condition on which they were allowed to
retain occupation of these districts was that of declaring allegiance
to the Crown, with which both Chiefs and people at once complied; and,
in addition to this, and in accordance with their own laws, each Chief
was made responsible for any cattle or other robberies, the spoor of
which could be traced to his kraal, he having to pay the full value,
and follow up the spoor as best he could. The result was, that as
there could thus be no receivers, there were soon few thieves, and
property became comparatively secure, order being further enforced
and preserved by a body of 400 Kaffir police, regularly drilled and
equipped. The blessings of order and an equitable administration of
justice inspired a confidence which was gradually felt by the people to
be far preferable to the arbitrary and capricious rule of their chiefs,
supported as it was by the grossest superstitions and impostures; and,
besides this, efforts were made to improve their moral condition, every
encouragement being given to missionary exertions, and the opening of
schools and places of worship, with abundant success.
Admirable however as was Sir H. Smith's system, and also its
working,--for, as was remarked, nothing could be more promising
than the state of the country up to the autumn of 1850,--an element
was at work, the importance of which had not been duly estimated,
and to which may undoubtedly be traced the origin of the subsequent
war. The chiefs found their power and influence melting daily before
the advance of civilization, the settled habits of peace, and the
irresistible superiority of a just and duly administered government.
Naturally jealous of their hereditary power, they felt it would soon be
superseded; and Sandilli, their Paramount Chief, and an accomplished
Kaffir diplomatist, availing himself of this state of feeling, visited
all the several chiefs, and urged on them the necessity of a last
struggle for their waning independence, instigating them to use every
means to spread disaffection among their people. To further his views
he enlisted the services of Umlanjeni, one of their _Witch-doctors_ and
prophets, in whose predictions, the most absurd and preposterous, the
Kaffirs placed superstitious faith. His influence was extraordinary,
and spread like wildfire among them, and the spirit of disaffection
was once more deeply at work. Secret and active emissaries were sent
far and wide to the Kaffirs located on the different farms in the
service of colonists, with orders to desert their employers, which they
promptly obeyed, absconding without warning, and in many instances
leaving their property and wages behind.
At length, in spite of the reluctance of the authorities to believe
in any hostile intentions on the part of the enemy, the truth of such
suspicions became so apparent, that intelligence of the unsettled state
of affairs, and an expected movement, was despatched to Sir Harry
Smith at Cape Town. He suddenly appeared on the spot, and immediately
commenced personal inquiries, and the now thoroughly alarmed colonists
presented an address urging the real remedy for the apprehended
disturbances,--viz., the complete deposition of the chiefs from power,
by depriving them of all independent authority. In absence, however, of
any "direct evidence" that they were engaged in plotting an attack, and
persuaded by their specious promises and affected submission, Sir H.
Smith, in his reply of October 24, 1850, said, "that reports throughout
British Kaffraria were most satisfactory, the chiefs were astounded at
his sudden arrival, and he hoped to arrest some of the Kaffirs who had
spread the alarming reports."
His prompt and energetic appearance, though without any troops
whatever, alone averted an immediate outbreak, and at a great assembly
of the Chiefs at King William's Town they swore allegiance to the
government, ratifying it by kissing the "stick of peace." The crafty
Sandilli however refused to attend, and for his contumacy was shortly
after deposed by proclamation, and on the 18th of November the
Governor, after endeavouring to reassure the frontier settlers, and
induce them to return to their farms, departed for Cape Town in the
hopes that all would remain tranquil.
But a Commission appointed by the Governor to proceed to the country
of Hermanus to investigate the numerous complaints of depredations,
forwarded to Cape Town such an alarming account of the critical state
of affairs that his Excellency immediately started in the "Hermes,"
and within less than a month from his leaving it, was again on the
Frontier, landing at Buffalo mouth with the 73rd regiment and a
detachment of artillery. A proclamation was at once issued for the
establishment of a police, and the enrolment of a corps of volunteers
for self-defence, so as to leave the whole of the military at liberty
for operations.
The Kaffirs at this time, according to returns, possessed upwards of
3000 stand of arms, six million rounds of ball cartridge, and half a
million assegais, with ample means of supply; a trade in gunpowder and
arms having long been carried on openly and almost without restriction.
Their fanatical prophet, Umlanjeni, now issued the command to "Slay and
eat," which, as the usual food of the Kaffirs in time of peace is corn,
roots, and sour milk, is the conventional mode with them of commencing
a war, the stimulus of animal food being only resorted to, to excite
their energies on such occasions; their warlike passions fairly
aroused, farms were attacked in every direction, houses plundered
and burned, and the police effectually resisted in their attempts to
enforce the restitution of stolen cattle.
A panic spread along the Frontier, and the farmers abandoned their
lands in numbers, moving with all their flocks and herds into the
interior, their losses being greatly aggravated by the swarms of
locusts which devoured everything before them, leaving the cattle
to perish for want of pasture. Those who had the courage, or were
compelled by necessity to remain, formed themselves into _laagers_
of ten or twelve families, regularly fortifying and provisioning
themselves within some of the more tenable homesteads, round which they
collected their flocks.
The Commander-in-chief, on the 16th December, marched all the troops
in Albany and British Kaffraria to the Amatola mountains, the object
of which was to make such a demonstration as might overawe the Gaikas,
without resorting to force, which was to be carefully avoided. The
troops consisted of the 6th, 73rd, and 91st regiments, and the Cape
Mounted Rifles, together, about 1500 strong, with the two divisions
of Kaffir police. The right wing, under Lieut.-Col. Eyre, 73rd, was
posted on the Kabousie Neck, accompanied by the Chief Toise; the centre
column, under Col. Mackinnon, held Fort Cox, the head-quarters of his
Excellency; and Col. Somerset, in command of the left wing, moved on
Fort Hare.
On the 19th a great meeting of all the Gaika tribes and chiefs was
held at Fort Cox, when above 3000 assembled, and were addressed by
the Governor on the conduct of Sandilli, who, with his half-brother
Anta, was outlawed, and large rewards offered for their apprehension.
His Excellency impressed on them his determination to preserve order,
and, if needful, to enforce it by the troops; but they had, no doubt,
already fully resolved on war, and must have felt pretty confident in
the strength of their position and forces, for on his threatening them
that, in case of necessity, he could bring ships full of troops to the
Buffalo mouth, he was significantly asked, "If he had any ships that
could sail up the Amatolas?"
A few days later their hostile intentions were put beyond a doubt. A
patrol of 580 strong, under Colonel Mackinnon, had been ordered out to
the Keiskamma Hoek, where Sandilli was supposed to be concealed, in
the expectation that he would surrender or fly, as the Governor was
led to believe. They marched from Fort Cox on the 24th, with orders
to molest no one, and were treated in the most friendly manner by the
Kaffirs until they had reached a narrow, rocky gorge of the Keiskamma,
where they could only proceed in single file, when a fire was suddenly
opened on the column of infantry, after the Kaffir Police and Cape
Mounted Rifles had been suffered to pass. The fire was most resolutely
maintained for some time, and the ground was so well chosen for the
attack, that the troops could not dislodge the Kaffirs until they had
suffered a considerable loss, the mounted police and Cape corps being
unavailable. Assistant-Surgeon Stuart, and eleven men, were killed,
with two officers and seven privates wounded. The loss of the enemy was
considerable.
There is no doubt that the troops were purposely led into this
ambuscade by the Kaffir police, as they were themselves not only
allowed to pass unmolested during the whole affair, but the next day
a body of 365 deserted to the enemy, taking their wives, cattle,
equipments, and ammunition, and, what was more annoying, the discipline
and knowledge of our military manoeuvres, both infantry and cavalry,
which they had acquired from a long course of active training, at an
expense, to the colony alone, of £11,000 annually. Their defection was
speedily followed by that of others. This day (Christmas day) seems
to have been agreed on as the commencement of a general outbreak.
Martial law had been proclaimed by the governor, in consequence of the
events of the day before. A party of the 45th regiment, while escorting
waggons to King William's Town, was surprised on the Debe Neck, and
overpowered, before they could form for defence, by a large body of
Kaffirs, who barbarously murdered the whole party, a sergeant and
fourteen privates, leaving their bodies on the ground, where they were
found by Colonel Mackinnon's patrol, with their throats cut from ear to
ear, and horribly mutilated, which was afterwards discovered to have
been perpetrated before death. This party had formed a portion of the
handful of troops at Fort White, and the Kaffirs at once proceeded to
attack the weakened garrison, but were gallantly repulsed with loss.
Simultaneously with these attacks they consummated their cowardly
treachery by a general and concerted massacre at all the military
villages, under circumstances of the most atrocious and cold-blooded
ferocity. These military settlers were discharged soldiers, who had
grants of land assigned to them, with assistance from government on a
liberal scale to start them in their farms, the condition of tenure
being, that they should be ready at any time to turn out for the
defence of the country, receiving good pay and allowances while on
service. A number of prosperous little villages thus sprang up, and
the settlers lived on the most friendly terms with the neighbouring
Kaffirs, constantly entertaining them as their guests, and employing
many on their farms. Of their hospitality the Kaffirs treacherously
availed themselves to the full, to allay suspicion and prepare the
way for the intended massacre. Hurried orders to prepare themselves
for the worst had but just arrived in consequence of the attack at
Keiskamma Hoek, on the previous day, when the Kaffirs rose at a signal,
and massacred the inhabitants, whose guests many of them had just
been sharing their Christmas dinner. The women were stripped, and
escaped with difficulty, and the houses were burned to the ground.
Johannesberg, Woburn, and Auckland, among others, were thus entirely
destroyed, every man at the latter being killed.
The Governor himself was next hemmed in by the enemy at Fort Cox; a
gallant attempt to open a communication with him was made by Colonel
Somerset, with a party of the 91st regiment and Cape Mounted Rifles,
but they were compelled to abandon it, being surrounded by overwhelming
numbers of the enemy; and, in a most desperate hand-to-hand fight, two
gallant officers, and twenty privates, of the 91st, were killed, and
many wounded. Their loss, however, was amply avenged, some 200 of the
enemy being left dead on the field.
On the 31st, Sir H. Smith, with a party of Cape corps, sallied from
Fort Cox, and after dashing through the enemy for twelve miles,
succeeded in reaching King William's Town. He immediately issued a
proclamation, calling on the colonists to rise _en masse_, and assist
the troops to expel and exterminate the Gaikas from the Amatolas, at
all hazards.
The prospects of the new year opened gloomily enough; the attacks and
depredations of the enemy became daily more general and audacious.
The farmers entirely abandoned the country, and the roads were almost
impassable from the quantity of stock which was driven in. The Gaikas
were joined by the T'slambies and Tambookies, mustering not less
than 15,000 strong; and Kreli, the most influential chief, was under
suspicion, and his defection greatly dreaded, as he could bring a force
of at least 10,000 men into the field.
At this conjuncture the ill-concealed spirit of disaffection, which
had long been at work, broke out among the Hottentots of the London
Missionary Station, at the Kat River, for years a hotbed of discontent
and rebellion; though actually fed and clothed at an enormous expense
by the government, and put in free possession of a most beautiful and
fertile district, taken by us from the Kaffirs, and given to them
unconditionally, yet these people were taught to believe themselves
injured, robbed, and oppressed by those to whom they owed everything;
and now leagued themselves with Sandilli and his followers.
The missionary settlements of Shiloh and Theopolis quickly followed
their example, and the so-called Christianized Hottentots were soon
among the foremost of the rebels. At Shiloh they actually garrisoned
and held their chapel for some time against their Burgher forces,
though they had but shortly before received the sacrament and sworn
solemn allegiance. Afterwards, being joined by a party of Tambookies
and Kat River rebels, they made a daring attack on Whittlesea.
As soon as Sir H. Smith reached King William's Town, he despatched an
urgent demand to Cape Town for all available troops, and another appeal
was made to the Burghers.
While the Governor was awaiting the collection of these reinforcements,
the Kaffirs, emboldened by the delay, sent an audacious challenge to
our troops to fight, backed by a body of 500 men, who, however, were
signally worsted by a party of Cape corps, and Fingoes.
As soon as the Commander-in-chief had somewhat organized his forces,
Colonel Mackinnon was despatched, on the 30th of January, to throw
supplies into Fort Cox and Fort White, and, on the 13th of February,
marched with a patrol to the relief of Fort Hare, in all of which he
was successful, though after severe conflicts with the enemy.
By this time the Kaffirs had overrun the whole country, down even as
far as Graham's Town and the Addo Bush, and, in every direction, were
perpetrating the most violent outrages on life and property, to the
utter dismay and consternation of the inhabitants; and Sir H. Smith, at
the request of the English and Dutch churches, proclaimed a solemn day
of humiliation on the 7th February, which was religiously observed.
Fort Armstrong, which the rebels had seized, was stormed on the 23rd of
February, and taken by Major-General Somerset; and other engagements
took place with the same success, especially during patrols of a force
under Colonel Mackinnon.
In the beginning of March the Cape Mounted Rifles followed the example
of the Kat River rebels, a party of them deserting from head-quarters,
with all their arms and accoutrements; and further desertions were only
checked by the promptness of the Governor, who at once paraded the
regiment, and disarmed the coloured men.
On the 18th the Commander-in-chief took the field in person, and
marched to Fort Hare, which was in imminent danger of an attack for
the rescue of prisoners and the plunder of ammunition. By a masterly
movement this was frustrated, and the enemy utterly routed with
considerable loss. After this his Excellency pushed on with a rapidity
which astonished the Kaffirs, and marched on Forts Cox and White;
during which another spirited engagement took place, the enemy being
again defeated, numbers of them killed, and above 1000 head of stolen
cattle retaken.
In consequence of an atrocious case of roasting three men alive at
the notorious Kat River, General Somerset, with a strong patrol,
marched to the Mancazana River, where they were attacked by the enemy,
who were completely defeated. Major Wilmot, R.A., also on a patrol
into the Chief Seyolo's country, encountered and defeated them;
inflicting severe loss, driving Seyolo out, and destroying their
kraals and stores. Colonel Mackinnon and Captain Tylden had, by the
latest intelligence, successfully opposed the enemy in other parts
of the country, and Marassa's people; but the troops were evidently
inadequate, in point of numbers, to the emergency, and the vast extent
of the line of operations; and the greatest anxiety was felt, which
was increased by the intelligence of Kreli's having engaged in actual
hostilities, in conjunction with the Tambookies and Basutas.
Such, briefly, was the state of affairs when we left Simon's Bay;
and it was with feelings of some excitement that we looked forward
to joining the gallant little army, which as anxiously expected our
arrival.
CHAPTER III.
LANDING--MARCH UP THE COUNTRY--FIRST BRUSH WITH THE REBELS.
On the fourth day after leaving Simon's Town, we dropped anchor in
Algoa Bay, opposite the town of Port Elizabeth, which, though rather
a dull-looking place at first sight, with its background of bare
sand-hills, improved on better acquaintance.
Here the troops were transferred to large boats, from which again, one
by one, we were all carried ashore, through a tremendous surf, sitting
astride on the shoulders of naked Fingoes; tall, athletic fellows,
adorned with armlets and necklaces of brass and beads, and wearing
pendant in front, a most grotesque and sometimes elaborate ornament,
which as much astonished our men, as it excited their merriment. Our
landing on the 16th of the month was an odd coincidence, as we had
sailed from Cork on the 16th of March, and crossed the line on the 16th
of April.
Towards evening the whole of the troops were landed, and our tents
pitched on the top of the bare bleak hill behind the town.
Most of the bedding having got thoroughly soaked in passing through the
surf, many of us slept in our plaids on the bare ground, which some of
the youngsters rather preferred, as a hardy soldier-like sort of thing.
Here we were detained three days, unable to procure sufficient
oxen for the baggage waggons, as in consequence of a long drought
and scarcity of pasture the cattle had died off in hundreds, those
that survived being in such a miserable plight that two could with
difficulty do the work of one in ordinary condition.
The camp was besieged from morning to night by crowds of various
races, Africanders, Hottentots, Malays, and Fingoes, as different in
costume as in complexion; some gaily dressed in startling cottons,
with gaudy _douks_ or bandanas on their woolly heads; others with
large brass skewers stuck Chinese fashion through their long black
hair; some wrapped in a simple cowhide, or dirty blanket; and many
with little encumbrance beyond their brass and copper ornaments, or
the naked little niggers tied on their backs. Horses of all ages and
descriptions, from unbroken colts to broken-down screws, and of all
colours, from a "voss" to a "blue schimmel," were paraded for sale, and
trotted up and down, spurred, "jambokked," and gingered all day long.
As every officer required two animals, one for riding and another for
his pack-saddle, the demand greatly increased the already high prices,
and we had to pay at least double their ordinary value.
On the fourth day after landing, tents were struck at eight in
the morning, and we marched through the long straggling street of
Port Elizabeth, accompanied for some distance out of the town by a
motley crowd, screaming and dancing round the band. A long train
of about thirty lumbering waggons, each drawn by ten or fourteen
of the largest bullocks we had ever seen; carrying immense and
most inconvenient-looking horns, brought up the rear. Naked little
"voorloupiers"[1] led the teams, which were driven by dwarf Hottentots
flourishing enormous bamboo whips eighteen or twenty feet in length,
the incessant cracking of which was like the report of so many pistols,
as they descended with volleys of Dutch oaths on the backs of the
unfortunate oxen answering to the names of Schwartlande, Bluberg, or
Scotlande.
The country was most monotonous, and but for such features of novelty
as strange shrubs and plants presented, uninteresting enough, being
little more than a succession of bare sandy flats, and low hills
sprinkled with bush, here and there a large salt-pan, and occasionally
clumps of aloes and elephant tree,[2] a large bush with round fleshy
leaves of an agreeable acid, the favourite food of the elephant, which
only a few years back inhabited the whole of this district. The sun
was scorching hot; clouds of fine sand, raised by the moving column,
floated round, filling eyes and mouth; and altogether the men (judging
from their remarks) appeared to entertain a very indifferent opinion of
Africa.
After fourteen miles we came to the Zwartkop river, and crossing the
_drift_ or ford, encamped among the scattered mimosas, bristling with
gigantic white thorns, on a piece of short, smooth grass, at the foot
of a hill, completely covered with aloes, drawing up the waggons in
line, and _knee-haltering_ the horses, which were turned loose to feed
with the oxen till dark.
A brilliant moon rose early, and we sat round a cheerful camp-fire,
smoking our first pipe in what might be called the bush; the long
lines of tents and white-topped waggons peeped from among the dark
trees, bright fires encircled by red coats shone everywhere; the oxen
tied to the yokes lay grouped together, the horses stood sleeping, the
Hottentots scraped their fiddles and screeched under their waggons, and
in the distance the sentinels paced up and down their beat; while above
the general hum, rose every now and then the loud laugh and merry song,
finishing occasionally with the mournful howl of a jackal.
Next morning, after ascending the steep winding road cut through a
forest of large African aloes, we marched to Coega River, where,
learning that there was no water to be had for the next twenty miles,
we were obliged, on account of the oxen, to halt for the day. We had
good sport at buck-shooting, and I got a beautiful tiger's skin from a
native who had but just stripped it from the carcass of its late owner.
Owing to the general reluctance that had hitherto been displayed to
turning out of bed in the middle of the night to march, we were aroused
the following morning at one o'clock, by the effectual but not very
agreeable mode, of pulling down the tents at the sound of a bugle,
without the ceremony of asking those within whether they were prepared
for a public appearance.
It was still bright moonlight when we _fell in_, and so bitterly cold
that our half-frozen fingers and toes had hardly recovered their
natural warmth when we halted for breakfast, after a five-miles walk in
rear of the snail-paced waggons.
After two or three hours' grazing, the oxen were inspanned, and our
march continued for fifteen miles through dense bush; the laborious
track ankle deep in soft sand, and so narrow in places that the waggons
could barely brush through, the men being obliged to march in file. The
sun was by this time intensely hot, and we were without a drop of water
to moisten our lips, which were swollen and blistered by the heat.
Towards noon we came to a "poort," or natural hollow between high banks
covered with aloe and dwarf euphorbia, the sand thickly incrusted with
salt. The reflected heat of the sun was intolerable; not a breath of
air was stirring; all around was still as death, and the atmosphere so
stifling that many of the men were on the point of fainting, though
a few hours before benumbed with cold. Shortly we came to a muddy
stagnant pool, literally hot from the noontide sun: but so great were
the sufferings of the troops, that they rushed almost into it, throwing
themselves down by sections on the miry banks, and greedily drinking
the fetid green water.
In the afternoon we pitched our tents on a burning plain; and never
did I enjoy anything so much as a bathe that evening in the gloomy
crocodile-suggesting-stream, called Sunday River, whose sluggish water,
overhung by deep forest, scarcely moved the twigs that dipped into
it. After this refresher, we all dined together at the little lonely
inn; the rooms of which were covered, from the ceiling to the floor,
with the skins of lions and tigers; shot, as the host assured us,
"within sight of the house." During the night, my tent pole, which had
already shown rickety symptoms, gave way from the overstraining of the
canvass, tightened by the dew, and down came the wet tent on our faces,
nearly smothering C----n, my companion in misfortune. We cut an odd
figure in the moonlight, in our shirts and red woollen caps, creeping
from under the fallen tent, and in that airy costume clearing away
the wreck, turning in again between our blankets on the open plain;
where, at the risk of being walked over by orderly officers and stray
horses, we slept soundly until _réveillé_, when awaking, I found every
article of clothing thoroughly saturated with dew; in spite of which,
it was impossible to resist laughing at the autumnal appearance of my
comrade, whose nightcap, hair, and eyebrows were heavily loaded with
sparkling dewdrops.
After about an hour's marching, the sun rose, and we met a returning
party of traders going down to the Bay with several waggon-loads of
skins, escorted by about a score of naked Fingoes. In the forenoon we
arrived at Commando Kraal, where was an encampment of Fingoe Levies,
stationed at the entrance of the dangerous Addo-bush, in which, a short
time previously, one or two rencounters with the Kaffirs had taken
place. A small party of them joined us, armed with flint-locks and
assegais, and dressed in the most grotesque manner possible.
This dense and beautiful bush extends for miles on every side; its
solitary depths impassable except to Kaffirs and wild beasts, hundreds
of which latter roam through it undisturbed. Tigers, hyænas, wild-cats,
and jackals abound; and buffaloes and elephants are still occasionally
seen, of which we had convincing evidence in the fresh spoor of three
of the latter, whose enormous foot-prints were distinctly visible, and
made one's heart beat with excitement at the idea of being in a country
where such noble beasts roamed wild and unrestrained. The waggon
track was in many parts very beautiful, sometimes so narrow that the
overhanging trees, covered with festoons of grey pendant lichen, met
above it; in others, opening out into smooth green lawn-like patches,
surrounded by brilliantly flowered trees and shrubs (as the crimson
boerboon,[3] and the yellow mimosa, with its gigantic milk-white
thorns); everywhere clusters of the beautiful pale blue plumbago, with
numberless aloes and occasional euphorbias, rising to the height of
thirty feet; the underwood filled with the "stapelia," "gasteria,"
and other varieties of cactus. The heat of the sun was again most
oppressive, shut in as we were between walls of bush, so close, that
not a breath of air found its way through. The oxen were so completely
done up, that they could scarcely draw the heavily-laden waggons
through the deep sand, and numbers fell, to die on the roadside, or
were abandoned a prey to the wild beasts and vultures.
Halting for half an hour to rest the cattle at the top of a heavy hill,
a lovely view presented itself: in the foreground, the road we had just
passed, winding down into the bush below; beyond that, a vast extent
of flat, thickly-wooded country; and far off, a fine chain of rugged
mountains, mellowed by the purple atmosphere of the distance, into a
mistlike softness.
Late in the day, we entered on an extensive grassy plain, affording a
grateful relief to the eye, after the close smothering road through the
bush. Three distant specks on the vast level proved, when we came up,
to be as many waggons outspanned by a large "vley" or pool of water;
their owners, a company of traders, cooking supper and smoking their
pipes, looked a picture of ease and comfort, strongly contrasted with
our dusty and way worn appearance. We saw several "duykerbok," and
encamped at sunset, driving in our last tent-pegs by the light of a
beautiful moon.
Across this plain, thinly covered with brown burnt-up grass, we
marched the following day, for twelve miles, in clouds of fine sand,
borne along by a hot wind that rendered it disagreeable and wearying
in the extreme; and without seeing anything to enliven or interest,
excepting a fine secretary bird and a number of tortoises; two large
_cobra capellas_ were killed, one of which bit a pet terrier-dog, that
immediately began howling and barking, running round and round, falling
down and foaming at the mouth. Its body swelled out enormously, and
it soon afterwards died. We encamped for the night at Bushman's River,
where we were only able to get a little thick stagnant water of the
colour and consistence of a dose of rhubarb, and were on the road again
by four, A.M.; outspanning after five miles for breakfast, by a pool
of fresh water, which was most welcome, after having had nothing to
drink for the last twenty-four hours but the single draught of liquid
mud. While searching in the thicket for dry firewood, we came upon a
colony of monkies, which highly resented our intrusion, chattering and
gesticulating in the most angry manner.
Towards mid-day we came in sight of a small settlement, with the
exception of the solitary inn, the first sign of human habitation we
had seen for four days. The houses, seven in number, standing in the
open plain, were enclosed by stockades, and barricaded with boxes,
bags, chests and barrels, filled with sand, and piled up against the
doors and windows; the neat little English church, about which we
found the few inhabitants just assembling for divine service (it being
Sunday,) was loop-holed, and barricaded within by furniture of all
descriptions, an indication of our approach to the neighbourhood of the
disturbed districts.
Our route the following day lay for some miles through an uninteresting
succession of low, undulating grassy hills, totally devoid of tree or
bush, but thickly covered with enormous ant-hills, many of them four
feet high, neatly built, rounded, and baked as hard as stone.
At Assegai Bush we were met by a convoy of twenty additional waggons,
sent from Graham's Town, to lighten our own, and enable us to proceed
with greater dispatch. They were escorted by about fifty Fingoe Levies,
armed as usual, with guns and assegais; their felt hats ornamented
with the feathers of the Kaffir crane, the ostrich, vink, and lorie,
jackall's brushes, or strips of tiger skin; and wearing suspended from
the waist by steel chains of their own manufacture, bags or purses,
called _daghasacs_, ingeniously made without a seam, of the entire skin
of the wild cat, dossie, or monkey (the opening at the neck being the
only one, through which the whole of the flesh and bone is removed);
in these they carry their pipes and tobacco, the _iquaka_ or snuff box
(made of a small gourd, with bead ornaments, and horn or metal spoons
attached, similar to those in use in the Highlands); with their flint
and steel, charms, and other odds and ends.
Thus relieved, the oxen jogged cheerily on, and the march was prolonged
several hours beyond our usual distance. At sunset, on leading our
horses to drink at a small vley, near the edge of the bush, we found
the fresh spoor of a tiger, the prints of his massive feet being
quite plain in the mud. After nightfall we crept more slowly on; the
waggons jolting and creaking heavily along the rough road, bumping up
against the huge stones, and diving into the deep gullies, or "sluits,"
with which it abounded. At last we halted, and groping about in the
dark, tumbling into jackall's holes and running into prickly bushes,
managed to pitch our tents on the worst piece of ground imaginable;
and, as it was out of the question to find wood, we gave up the idea
of fires; though it had already begun to rain; and turned in, hoping
to sleep soundly after a thirty miles march. In this we were however
disappointed, for a great number of the tents blew down during the
night, in a high wind, that tore up the tent pegs from the soft ground,
and left us exposed to the pitiless pelting of the storm.
But all things have an end, and next morning the sun shone out as
brightly as ever; and the face of the country looked fresher and
greener than before. Our road led for some miles through a fine
_poort_, or glen; shut in by high bold rocky hills, with prickly-pear,
scarlet and lilac geraniums, and African aloes in full flower, growing
in every nook and crevice; the steep road winding by the course of a
mountain stream, along which grew hundreds of the large white arum,[4]
orange-coloured salvias, and a host of other flowers; whilst chattering
flocks of the bright golden green spreuw,[5] honey-birds and orioles
flitted among the tall jungle, and flew from branch to branch.
After toiling some hours up a steep and most execrable road, we came
in sight of Graham's Town, with the size, situation, and general
appearance of which, we were somewhat disappointed. It is a straggling
place, situated in the midst of a bare piece of country, surrounded by
equally bare hills. We marched through the town, to Fort England, and
pitched our tents on the turf-covered square, in front of the officers'
quarters--detached cottages, with small gardens, enclosed by hedges of
prickly-pear. Here we remained two or three days, preparing for the
field, and awaiting orders from General Somerset, to whose division we
were attached. Our bonnets and plaids were replaced by a costume more
suitable for the bush--viz., a short dark canvas blouse; in addition,
to which feldt-schoen, and lighter pouches, made of untanned leather,
were issued to the men, and broad leather peaks fixed to their forage
caps, forming as light and serviceable a head-dress as possible. We
further provided ourselves with pack-horses, pack-saddles, patrol
tents, camp kettles, saddle-bags, black servants, and a hundred other
necessaries.
On Monday morning, just as the waggons were loaded, and we were on
the point of marching out of the place, an express arrived from the
General, countermanding the move, in consequence of information he
had received of an insurrection among the Hottentots of Theopolis, a
station of the London Missionary Society, and the common focus of the
rebels of the district. About seventy Hottentots with their wives and
families resided there, and amongst them several Fingoes. The former
having been joined the previous day by other rebels and Cape Corps
deserters, formed their plans and proceeded to carry them into effect
next morning at day-break, by murdering in cold blood the loyal and
unsuspecting Fingoes, whom they shot down as they were leaving their
huts.
To chastise and disperse these rebels and murderers was the object
of our suddenly altered destination; and as they had taken up a
strong position at Theopolis, it was on that point the General now
concentrated all his available force. Two companies of the 74th were
ordered to parade immediately in light marching order (_i. e._,
carrying their blankets on their backs, and leaving their tents
behind), and accompanied by guides, the Albany Rangers and some Levies,
marched at once for the scene of action. We watched them ascending the
steep hills behind the barracks, until they were lost to sight, and
envied them coming in for active duty. However, our time came sooner
than we had hoped, for as we sat at breakfast next morning in our
tents, a sudden order arrived for us to march in half-an-hour to join
the former patrol. Away went breakfast things, and all was life. Knives
and forks were quickly succeeded by dirks and pistols; and officers
and men were fully equipped before the appointed time. After some
delay in waiting for a six-pounder field-piece, some artillerymen,
and waggons of ammunition, we marched away to the sound of the old
bagpipes, crossed the mountain, and descended by a very steep road into
a lovely little nook or basin at its foot, where we halted to rest the
oxen, after five miles of very hard work; bivouacking on the grassy
banks of the Kowie, in a pretty spot glowing with African aloes and
salvias, and shut in by trees on every side but the one by which we
had approached, where the mountain towered above us in all its beauty.
Climbing the opposite ascent, we pursued our way through bush and plain
for about twenty miles, halting, some time after darkness had set in,
on the edge of the Brak River, where the troops were ordered to lie
down for a couple of hours' rest. Determining to make the most of the
time, I threw myself down at once in my plaid, on the ground, under a
snug bush, and endeavoured to snatch a little slumber; but it was so
bitterly cold, and the jackalls howled in such melancholy tones, that
sleep was impossible for the first hour, and I could hardly believe
that my eyes had been closed for more than five minutes, when awakened
by the orderly sergeant, shaking me by the shoulder to rise.
It was a pitch dark night, not a star to be seen, and we marched
on, stumbling against ant-hills, and walking into deep holes of
ant-bears[6] at almost every step, accidents well known to all who have
made night marches in this country. At length we saw, at about five
miles distance, and right ahead of us, the glimmering camp fires of the
other part of our force, and entered their lines at the first streak of
dawn, astonishing them not a little by our unexpected appearance. We
learned that a slight skirmish had taken place with the rebels, from
whom several waggons had been taken. Field Cornet Grey had been killed,
and Commandants Woerst and Stults, with four others of the Levies,
wounded.
We remained here for the next twenty-four hours, awaiting the cover of
night to make our advance upon the enemy's position, from which we were
about twelve miles distant. During the day, which was exceedingly warm,
we refreshed ourselves by bathing in a small stream, and eating oranges
in a grove close to the camp; the trees of unusual size, covered with
ripe golden fruit, from their topmost branches, down to the lowest
boughs, which swept the ground from their weight. Fine bananas grew
among the trees, and a profuse undergrowth of waving grass everywhere;
the place having been abandoned since the commencement of the war.
Late in the day the General arrived in camp with an escort of Cape
Mounted Rifles, making our force about six hundred and forty men,
with eight artillerymen and a field-piece. The troops were ordered
to lie down to rest at an early hour, as we were to move off to the
scene of attack soon after midnight; when all were to fall in quickly
and quietly, and without giving any unnecessary indication of our
movement. About half-past one o'clock we were turned out; and, with
a strange feeling of excitement, heightened by the novelty of our
silent movements, the subdued voices of officers and orderly sergeants,
indistinctly seen through the gloom gliding along the motionless ranks,
I took my place.
In a few minutes we moved off; the cavalry remaining behind for a
couple of hours. The road we had to traverse was most difficult,
abounding for the first few miles in deep holes and innumerable
ant-hills; after which, it became, if possible, worse; entering a
narrow rugged descending defile, a succession of deep steps or ledges
cut through a thick bush, and intersected by sluits or dry watercourses
(large and deep enough, as we very soon found, to contain three or four
men at once), and thickly strewn with large stones and loose rocks,
over which we stumbled and fell at almost every step, five or six being
frequently down at once, and often sustaining severe cuts and bruises.
The General, accompanied by the cavalry, came up just as we were
descending a very steep path, down to the drift over the Kareiga,
and passing us, moved on to the front. At this point, unfortunately,
the forces got separated in the darkness of the night, and being
unacquainted with the country, one company was completely lost in the
bush; while another wandered so far out of the way as to cause great
delay in commencing operations. We approached the enemy's position just
as the day began to dawn, and found our advance retarded by a large
barricade of newly felled trees, thrown across the narrow path at a
point where the bush on either hand was perfectly impenetrable. This
obstruction again delayed us a considerable time, as all were obliged
to file through an opening cut through the close thorny bushes; but
we got over the difficulty much more easily than was expected, and in
a few minutes were formed in order for the attack, at the entrance of
a fine grassy plain, perfectly circular, probably three quarters of
a mile in diameter, and entirely encompassed by a belt of bush about
three miles in breadth all round.
It had been originally intended to place the mounted force in position
behind a stockade which they were to reach by riding noiselessly
along the inner margin of the bush; but as day was approaching there
was every chance of their being discovered, consequently the plan was
abandoned, and they remained with the infantry, which at once entered
the enclosed plain by a narrow road, and on gaining the open space took
"skirmishing order;" two companies extended, two in support, and the
remainder in reserve. The Cape Corps and mounted burghers were formed
on the extreme right of the skirmishers, and we advanced rapidly across
the plain towards the enemy's huts, in rear of which, and under cover
of the bush, the Fingoe levies had been previously placed in ambuscade.
As we advanced hundreds of quail rose so temptingly, that
notwithstanding our momentary expectation of meeting very different
game, we were unable to refrain from exclamations, or to resist
bringing up our rifles and indulging in imaginary shots, until a few
real ones from the enemy quickly reminded us of the more serious
business of the day. A small party of the rebels had suddenly made
their appearance from a "vley" in front of our right wing, and were
immediately engaged with the cavalry, some sharp firing taking place
on both sides. The skirmishers were at once moved forward to cover
them; and the next moment we found ourselves under fire for the first
time, wondering that so many balls whistled around us, without hitting
any one. On seeing our advance the rebels took to flight and made for
the bush, closely pursued by the cavalry, but escaped down a wooded
kloof, from whence for a time they attempted to keep up a scattering
fire, occasionally appearing outside the cover to take a surer aim, and
again dodging quickly behind the bushes to load, not always however
sufficiently so, for our keen marksmen brought down several of them,
and wounded others, which, with the assistance of one or two well
directed vollies, had the effect of completely silencing their fire in
that quarter.
Meanwhile we were approaching the huts on our left; and seeing that
their commander (a deserter, by the way, from the Cape Corps, affecting
the importance of a British officer, and issuing his written orders
in due form), had drawn up his men in line fronting the huts with
the evident intention of contesting the ground, we rapidly "changed
direction" to that flank, the skirmishers wheeling to the left in
double-quick time, and the cavalry bringing their right shoulders
forward and charging towards them at full gallop. The rebels became
panic stricken, fired a few random shots, killing one of the Levies,
and fled to that part of the bush where our Fingoe and Bechuana allies
were posted, from whom they received, to their equal surprise and
dismay, a volley that killed seven or eight of their number, and drove
the rest back into the open space, whence they escaped by the very
outlet which was to have been held by the mounted force. Had it been so
occupied scarcely a man would have escaped them. As it was, the dense
and extensive bush rendered all pursuit hopeless. We therefore turned
our attention to the capture of their ill-gotten spoil, taking 632 head
of fine cattle, some horses and goats, all stolen from the neighbouring
settlers, besides a large quantity of grain, and six waggons. The huts
were well stocked with clothes, cooking utensils, native ornaments, and
furniture, including the recognised property of the murdered Fingoes;
these dwellings set on fire were speedily roaring and crackling like
furnaces. In several were dogs that had been hit by our fire, and in
one hut the exasperated Fingoes had found a wounded Hottentot left
behind by his people. He prayed hard for mercy, but in vain, for one of
them, whom the cruel massacre had deprived of a parent, blew out his
brains before any one could interfere, exclaiming: "Wena! uyabulala
ubawo bam!" (You! murderer of my father!)
While searching about the place a shot was fired at us by some fellow
skulking in the bush, to the edge of which we had incautiously
wandered. Gordon had a narrow escape, as the ball ploughed up the
ground at his feet, and covered him with the soil. The Fingoes
immediately dashed in, in pursuit, making the wood ring with their
yells.
From the elevated site of the smouldering village we had a fine
and unexpected view of the sea at only a few miles distance, the
intervening country, grassy and well wooded, being intersected by the
winding Kareiga. We bivouacked for breakfast, boiling our coffee on the
embers of the huts, and spreading our rations of beef and black biscuit
on the trampled grass, not many yards from the corpses of those who
had fallen. A few stray Kaffirs were espied stealing away through the
open bush in the valley below, and though far out of range, set all the
Fingoes firing away at once in the wildest manner imaginable.
After resting for about half an hour we returned by the road we had
traversed the night before, which was, of course, up-hill all the way
back. It was now intensely hot; and after having marched thirty-five
miles the previous day, and been on foot two nights successively, we
found it heavy work, nearly all being half asleep as we staggered
along the burning road. I found myself several times in a state of
somnambulism, starting out of sleep as I stumbled over the inequalities
of the ground, wondering for the instant where I was. Thus we plodded
on till late in the evening, when jaded and weary we again reached
the bivouac left eighteen hours before, during seventeen of which we
had never rested. The steady and soldier-like manner in which the men
performed this march, so soon after landing from a long sea voyage,
deservedly elicited the commendations of the General in Orders. It was
with a feeling of relief and pleasure, known only to those who have
undergone the excessive fatigues of such a forced march, that we threw
ourselves down to rest, and kicked the shoes off our burning feet.
It was late the following afternoon when we again halted at the Kowie
River, at the foot of the mountain, and the oxen being too much
exhausted to drag the waggons up, we encamped there for the night.
Having neither bread nor biscuit left, we made a supper of beef and
cold water, refreshing ourselves, after sleeping three nights in our
clothes, by a moonlight bathe in the cold stream. Next morning all were
under way at three o'clock, and before day dawned were near the top of
the mountain road looking down on the fires we had left, glimmering
far below in the yet dark valley. The camp at Fort England was reached
in time for a somewhat late breakfast, during which we had more than
enough to do between satisfying our own voracious appetites and the
eager inquiries of those who had so unwillingly been left behind.
General Somerset, on his return to Graham's Town, received despatches
from the Commander-in-chief of such a nature as to induce him to march
us at once up the country to Fort Hare. Accordingly we struck tents
next morning, though it was Sunday, and proceeded to Bothas Hill that
afternoon, whence we had our first view of the lofty rugged chain of
the Amatolas, gazing upon them in the blue distance, with no little
interest, as our reported destination, and feeling that at last we
were fairly off for Kaffirland. The view from this hill was splendid:
endless chains of mountains; dark and wooded kloofs; sunny valleys, and
grassy plains, dotted with mimosa; all clad in a depth and variety of
colouring forming a picture as difficult to describe as to forget.
The following morning we entered the Ecca Pass, the terror of
waggon-drivers and "post-riders," and notorious as the scene of
many fatal ambuscades. The road winds along a deep narrow valley
between high hills covered with dense thorny bush, and has a high
wall of rock on the one hand, on the other a precipitous ravine, with
admirable cover for Kaffirs everywhere, and is, perhaps, one of the
most villanous specimens of a high road in the known world, abounding
throughout its entire length with rocks of all sizes, from that of a
"company's arm-chest" downwards; holes in the middle of it as deep as
an ordinary horse-pond. On the one side the yawning precipices encroach
on the crumbling path; while on the other some communicative driver
points to overhanging crags and unapproachable cliffs, from which
unsuspecting escorts and parties of horsemen are frequently fired upon
by lurking bands of the enemy; with what fatal effect is evidenced by
the bones and dried up hides of oxen and horses lying in the track.
At a turn in the road, where only three days before a mounted express
had been attacked, and four of the party wounded, we disturbed a troop
of gorged vultures, which, rising from the half-devoured carcase of
one of the horses, alighted on the rocks above, from the concealed
crevices of which the rebels had taken aim. Within three weeks after
this attack they again waylaid a like party, but with more fatal
effect, two men being killed and four wounded. We were suffered to pass
without molestation. The appearance of our long line, as it moved down
the valley, was very striking; wild-looking Fingoes, strings of oxen
and waggons, the glittering forest of bayonets, straggling Levies,
pack-horses, and camp followers, winding along the hill-side, through
the glowing bush, which was varied by magnificent euphorbias, rivalling
forest trees in height.
Among the rocks were numbers of dossies[7] (a sort of rabbit, with a
rat's head and monkey's hands) and some large baboons.
We emerged from the valley by a steep rough road, called Brak River
Hill, and after a few miles level trek through a sandy country,
sprinkled with thorn bushes, arrived at Fort Brown, a lonely
quadrangular fortification, close to the Great Fish River, on the
opposite bank of which we encamped for the night.
At the Koonap River, where we outspanned for a couple of hours next
morning, two magnificent koodoo were seen, but they disappeared in the
thick bush before any of the stalkers were within rifle range; one
of them was a splendid fellow, as large as a mule, with long upright
spiral horns, full three feet high.
From this the road for some distance ran along the base of a lofty
range of cliffs called the Blue Krantz, an unbroken precipice of grey
rock, at least 100 feet in height, and so perpendicular that a stone
thrown from it would have fallen right among us; its summit fringed
with aloes and overhanging trees, scarlet geranium springing from every
crevice.
After crossing the river by two deep drifts, a few hundred yards
apart, the diverging roads re-united at a deserted military post,
destroyed by the enemy, and we commenced the ascent of the Koonap Hill,
a long winding steep road, strewed, like the pass of the previous
day, with the bones and carcasses of horses and bullocks, victims,
not of savages, but of civilized cruelty; in our own case, one after
another, twenty-one oxen were left dying or perfectly exhausted on the
hill-side, and it was with the greatest difficulty that the remainder,
weakened by long scarcity of pasture, were goaded to the top, though
each waggon was drawn up by a double span, or team, driven by four or
five screaming swearing Totties, who, besides their terrific whips,
every cut of which left a long bare bleeding streak, used a heavy
"jambok" of rhinoceros hide, six feet long, and as thick as a man's
wrist at the handle, and at every stand-still, when these failed, bent
the unfortunate animals' tails till they broke, biting them savagely.
The extensive range of country seen from this hill increased in beauty
as we ascended the road which ran along the edge of the ravine, fringed
with majestic euphorbias; in the distance deep blue mountains, and
plains of red sand, then wavy bush-covered hills, and in the valley
below us the winding river, and our rear guard, with their long line of
waggons slowly advancing.
It was not till the afternoon that the last waggon reached the top of
the ascent. No longer shaded by high wooded banks, we found the sun
oppressively hot as we trekked along through endless clumps of dusty
spek-boom, or elephant tree. In the evening we had a magnificent sunset
view of the Amatolas; and just as night set in came to a halt (after a
march of about two and twenty miles) at Lieuw Fontein (lion's spring),
close to a small military post standing alone in a desolate country,
and garrisoned by some Hottentot Levies, under an officer of the line,
who must have had a lively time of it, as no one dare go beyond the
gates, except with a strong mounted escort.
Orders were issued to march at eight next morning, a most gentlemanly
hour, as all agreed, and the more cordially as the distance to be
performed was only six miles, to the Kat River, to pasture the oxen,
which now absolutely required rest and food. They were turned out to
graze under the protection of a subaltern's guard, while we hastened to
purify ourselves in the rocky stream, protected by an armed party on
the willow banks; for some dozen Kaffirs in red blankets were seen on
a low hill about a mile off, their attention apparently divided equally
between the herds and the bathers.
After this welcome rest we resumed our march next morning, but
before many miles were accomplished, the waggons in front came to
a stand-still at the foot of a steep short hill. Judging from its
apparently moderate height we thought the stoppage would only be brief,
but to our surprise, soon observed the more knowing drivers in rear of
the train begin to make deliberate preparation for breakfast, those
nearer the front contenting themselves with a biscuit. Fires were
made, coffee pounded, dirty bags rummaged, and lumps of raw meat drawn
out, studded with copper caps and bits of broken pipe, and plentifully
dusted with crumbs and powdered biscuit; and they were soon at work,
tooth and nail. As for the troops, no orders having been given for
breakfast, from the uncertainty of our movements, we went without.
The last forelouper had finished his scanty pickings and wiped the
greasy clasped-knife on his woolly pate, the drivers had smoked out a
digestive pipe, and were fast asleep under their waggons, before the
"fall in" sounded, and we moved forward. We had wondered at the long
delay, but were more astonished, when we came to the ascent, that it
had ever been accomplished with such heavily laden waggons.
This achieved, the road was tolerably level, and we jogged on at a good
pace to a ruined and deserted missionary settlement, where we were
again brought to a stand by the breaking down of a waggon in the middle
of a drift. There was nothing for it but to unload and carry everything
to the opposite bank, when officers and men set to and spoked it out,
inch by inch; the driver, meanwhile, manufacturing a new "dissel-boom"
or pole out of a young tree.
On approaching Fort Hare, we were met by a large mounted party of
officers who had come out to welcome us, and shortly the place came in
sight, which appeared, from the hill, of considerable size, consisting
of white wooden houses, and dark Fingoe huts, widely scattered round
the fort. Though covering a large extent of ground, the works hardly
deserve the name, being in reality nothing more than a small village of
thatched mud cottages, enclosed by picketting and low walls mounting a
few guns and old musquetoons.
Our arrival was greeted with lively demonstrations of joy by the
coloured population, who headed the band, yelling and dancing in a
state of complete nudity. Our camp, with two others consisting of
Europeans and Fingoe Levies, was on a green level plain, between the
fort and the River Chumie, beyond which rose a fine range of lofty
mountains.
Anything more miserable in the shape of barrack accommodation than the
officers' quarters in the fort can hardly be conceived; uneven floors
of dried cow-dung, bending walls of "wattle and daub," smoke-blackened
rafters and thatch, crazy doors, and ill-fitting windows, which exclude
the light and admit in turn, wind, rain, and clouds of sand, are the
characteristics of the best.
We took advantage of our stay here to ride over in a party to the scene
of the engagement mentioned, which took place on the 29th December, in
attempting to open a communication with the Governor, then blockaded
in Fort Cox; when out of a band of only 230 men, after a hand-to-hand
fight, two gallant officers, Lieutenants Melvin and Gordon, 91st
regiment, and twenty-one privates, were killed, and many wounded. The
ground, a thorny valley, still bore marks of the struggle: rags of
uniform, and old forage-caps, with bones of Kaffirs, lay scattered
about; while from the grave of the soldiers, bones were protruding,
scratched up by jackalls and hyænas, which we carefully buried again in
the best way we could.
About thirty Kaffir and Hottentot prisoners were confined in the fort,
who sat, for the greatest part of the day, sunning themselves outside
the cells, hand-cuffed, and chained two and two. The Hottentots, who
had been taken at the capture of Fort Armstrong, and were awaiting
their trial by court-martial as rebels, looked sulky, and scowled with
a vindictive and villanous expression. The Kaffirs, on the contrary,
laughed and chatted with us, through an interpreter, displaying the
most magnificent teeth,--a feature common, also, to the Fingoes, and
of which both are not a little proud. A fine young Fingoe was pointed
out to us among the Levies, who, having had a front tooth accidentally
knocked out, got it replaced by an artificial one, for which he
willingly paid five-and-twenty shillings.
The resemblance between these two races is such as to make it
difficult, except to those who have lived long among them, to tell
one from the other. In complexion they are identical, speak the
same language; both alike are tall and well made: their women, well
proportioned and exceedingly graceful in carriage; to which may be
added the similarity of national dress--viz., a kaross of the skins
of wild beasts, a bull's hide, or a loose blanket, with earrings and
necklaces of tiger's teeth, shells, or seeds; while anklets and armlets
of black and white beads, tastefully worked, are worn by the women,
with smooth, brightly polished brass rings reaching from the wrist to
the elbow, gradually increasing in size.
The Hottentots differ in every respect from both, being very short and
slightly made, lean, and with ugly yellow monkey-looking faces, very
prominent cheek bones, small turned-up snub noses, and little twinkling
cunning eyes, and invariably wearing European garments, though in
modesty the naked Fingoe and Kaffir immeasurably surpass them.
Just as the regiment was assembling for service in the centre of the
camp, on Sunday morning, we were startled by hideous yelling and cries
from the Fingoe camp, whereby the service was delayed for some time.
For seeing the Commandant of the garrison galloping over, followed by
other officers, one and all bolted after them to see what was going on,
and found the Fingoes fighting about the division of rations. There
were several hundreds of them struggling like demons, in clouds of
dust, yelling out their war-cry, and challenging each other. All were
perfectly naked, the blood running down the black faces and breasts of
many from the blows of "knobkerries," or clubs, which they applied to
each other's heads with such astounding force that the very report was
enough to give one a headache. Not satisfied with this, some seizing
their assegais, rushed furiously into the crowd, yelling savagely,
and stabbing right and left. It was with the greatest difficulty, on
the part of the Commandant and the officers of the Levies, backed by
the efforts of the native sergeants, that the Fingoes were at length
quieted, and dispersed. Most of them were more or less marked with
the fray, and several had received severe assegai wounds, to which,
however, they appeared perfectly indifferent, for, twisting up a tuft
of dry grass into a small plug, and stuffing it into the gash, they
lighted their wooden pipes, and smoked away as if nothing particular
had happened.
General Somerset arrived, and we received orders to prepare for the
march on the morrow, on our way to the famed Amatolas, the Gibraltar
of the Gaikas, and head-quarters of Sandilli, who was said to be
strongly posted in their almost impregnable fastnesses. Commissariat
and baggage-waggons kept pouring into camp all day long; arms were
cleaned and examined; saddle-bags and pack-saddles, patrol-tents
and cooking utensils overhauled and fitted; and all was bustle and
preparation. The patrol-tent, by the way, is a canvas affair, about six
feet long and three feet high, not much unlike a dog kennel, into which
the owner creeps on hands and knees, and is supported by a couple of
poles of about four feet high, steadied by guys and pegs, and folds up
into a small enough compass to be carried under the arm, though it is
generally stowed away on the pack-saddle.
[Illustration: HOTTENTOT WAGGON-DRIVER.]
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Foreleaders.
[2] Asterocarpus typicus.
[3] Schotia speciosa.
[4] Calla Ethiopica.
[5] Lamproternis nitens.
[6] Ant-eaters. Echidna.
[7] Hyrax.
CHAPTER IV.
ADVANCE INTO KAFFIRLAND--ATTACK ON THE AMATOLAS--FORT BEAUFORT--CAMP ON
THE KOONAP RIVER.
Early on the morning of the 24th June, tents were once more struck,
baggage packed, and the long train of waggons stood ready inspanned.
The General, with his Staff, appeared on the ground, where the whole
division, amounting to 2000 men, artillery, cavalry, infantry and
irregulars, stood drawn up in column; the advance and rear guards were
formed; and we moved off to the inspiriting air of "Hieland Laddie,"
from the 74th band, which accompanied us, at the head of the column,
for about a mile; when, halting by the road side (as it had to remain
at Fort Hare,) the quickstep changed into the farewell melody of "Auld
lang syne," as the long waving line of hardy sun-burnt troops marched
steadily past in column of sections; not ceasing till all were hidden
from sight in the cloud of dust that floated along the side of the hill
called "Sandilli's Kop." The pipers then struck up "Over the Border,"
and played us across the frontier, into Kaffirland, through the whole
of which the "pipes" afterwards accompanied us, inspiriting the men on
many a long and weary march, and enlivening our camps with the familiar
strains of the "auld country."
Our way lay through level grassy plains along the base of the Little
Amatolas, whose sloping verdant sides were beautifully relieved by fine
bold crags and perpendicular krantzes, or cliffs, of grey basaltic
rock, and varied by deep belts of wood, marking the course of some
invisible mountain stream. On these plains, the advance cavalry patrol,
about a quarter of a mile ahead, fell in with some Kaffirs, with whom
we saw them exchanging shots among the scattered bushes; and being
ignorant of their numbers, began to feel excited, as a troop of horse,
detached from the main body, gallopped forward to reconnoitre, or
render assistance if needed. It proved to be a marauding party who had
been surprised returning with stolen cattle, to one of their villages
which we saw a little way up the side of the mountain, and on coming
up we found they had recaptured forty head of cattle, and killed three
Kaffirs. The corpse of one lay close to the track, his hand still
clutching a bundle of assegais. A mounted party was sent to set fire
to the village, where they found only a Gaika woman; the rest of the
inhabitants having fled to the fastnesses above on the first alarm of
our approach. Hundreds of Kaffirs were moving along the summit of the
lofty heights on the right, watching our movements below; their figures
appearing like specks against the clear blue sky.
A few miles more brought us at last to a halt on the Amatola Flats;
where, after a continued march of above 250 miles, we pitched tents by
the banks of the Quesana River, at the foot of the Great Amatolas. The
sun sank behind the purple mountains in a flood of crimson; and as the
darkness gathered around, and troops of wolves and jackals commenced
their nightly howling, the flames of the burning village grew brighter
and more distinct on the dark hill side. The heat of the day was
succeeded, as usual, by a cold sharp air, and the cheerful camp-fires
were quickly surrounded by men and officers; some in blanket-coats and
pea-jackets, squatting cross-legged around a steaming camp-kettle;
others in the midst of culinary cares, chopping wood, replenishing the
fire, or lifting the pot lid to taste the soup; while those who had
already dined, were enjoying their pipes. Our evenings in camp were
occasionally varied, either by a round of large parties, when each
guest invited brought with him his own "tin-tot," knife, spoon, and
biscuit; or by musical soirées in our tents; where, with a guttering
tallow candle fixed in the socket of a bayonet stuck in the ground, we
sipped thick coffee and sang duets and solos with very loud choruses
till a late hour, and generally with more satisfaction to ourselves
than our neighbours.
The following forenoon several Kaffirs were killed in a skirmish with
the Cape Corps, and their huts burnt and destroyed. The expected order
was issued for the attack next day, and the division directed to be
under arms at five o'clock in the morning, "to turn out without bugle
sound, or any noise whatever." A camp-guard of 300 men was to be left
behind under a captain; and, lastly, all lights and fires in the camp
were ordered to be extinguished at seven o'clock. Till then we sat
discussing the anticipated attack, when the curfew put an end to our
councils, we groped our way to the dark tents, and lay down to rest in
our clothes.
It was still quite dark when my servant shook me by the shoulder, and
with some difficulty succeeded in making me comprehend that the troops
were already "falling in," and that he wanted to pack up the blanket
and plaid on which I lay. Accordingly I jumped up, and after loading
the pack-horse with three days' rations, patrol-tent, kettles, and
other requisites for the bivouac, we made our way, stumbling along in
the dark, over tent-ropes and picketing pegs, to the parade-ground,
where the first brigade was rapidly assembling. The motionless ranks
were inspected as far as the imperfect light allowed, and all in
silence; and at five o'clock precisely, the General having arrived on
the ground, the word of command was passed on _sotto voce_, and we
moved noiselessly away to the foot of the mountains, commencing the
ascent of the Western Amatolas by the pass in front of our encampment,
reaching the summit just at day-break.
Here we were halted in line along the ridge, while General Somerset
proceeded with a detachment of the Cape Corps to reconnoitre the
position of the enemy on the Victoria heights on our right flank.
On reaching the southern point of the range his party was sharply
attacked, and a brisk skirmish maintained for a time on both sides.
Moving forward a column of two companies of the 91st, and three of
European and native Levies, under command of Lieut.-Col. Sutton, the
General returned to our brigade to direct the movements of the main
attack.
We saw the smoke of the enemy's fires curling slowly up from the dark
bush, on a steppe or lower ridge of the elevated range in front, and
on the opposite side of a lovely valley which lay at our very feet,
carpeted with the smoothest and greenest grass, and dotted with mimosa,
protéa, and clumps of tangled bush. On our left towered the lofty peak
of the Hogsback, the highest point of the whole chain; and below it
lay a finely wooded deep ravine, down the centre of which foamed a
milk-white cataract, the dark forest stretching away on either side,
and filling the kloof.
In a few moments an aid-de-camp rode up with instructions for our
brigade to move forward and descend into the valley below; the cavalry
and pack-horses making a detour of about a mile to our left, to a point
where the descent was somewhat less precipitous. After scrambling down
to the bottom, we formed "column of sub-divisions," and moved across
the valley, perceiving as we neared the lofty bridge opposite several
hundreds of the enemy gathering on its summit, their arms flashing
and glittering along the edge of the cliff in the morning sun. There
was only one point at which this apparently impregnable position
was accessible, and that was by a long steep exposed grassy ridge,
destitute of all cover, and completely commanded from the top by a
perfect fortification of huge detached rocks, behind which we could
perceive the enemy strongly posted and quietly waiting our attack,
confident in the security of their position. Up this formidable ascent,
bare and slippery as the roof of a house, the 74th were ordered to
advance and storm the natural citadel at its summit. In the meantime
heavy firing, about a mile distant on our right, announced that Col.
Sutton's column was engaged with the enemy in that direction; while
the different corps of native Levies were moved round to our right and
left flanks, those on the left skirmishing through the bush and setting
fire to a number of Kaffir huts. Pushing rapidly on to the point of
attack, we waded the river, and commenced the arduous ascent, up which,
in spite of a burning sun, the men mounted like true Highlanders. To
our surprise the enemy allowed us to come considerably within range,
and we were beginning to imagine the position was abandoned, when
suddenly they opened fire upon us from the shelter of the crags,
sweeping every inch of the smooth approach, themselves invisible, the
tops only of their black heads peeping over the rocks as they took aim,
and disappearing again as instantaneously as the flash of their guns.
Showers of balls whistled past us, with the peculiar _ping, whit_,
so well known to those who have been under fire; as we mounted, we
returned their fire with steady well-directed volleys every time their
heads were seen above the parapet of rocks, and deployed into line
under a rattling fire, and the fight begun in earnest. A private fell
shot in the foot. For a quarter of an hour there was an incessant roar
of musketry and whistling of bullets. As we neared the top, scrambling
with hands and knees up the crags, which were now discovered to be of
enormous size, and in places insurmountable; the fire became hotter,
the balls striking the ground and sending the earth and gravel flying
in our faces. One man fell shot through the arm and side; I passed
another sitting on the ground wounded in several places, and two more
awaiting the surgeon's aid; one with a shattered hand and the other
a wound in the head, his face deluged with blood. Lieutenant Bruce
received a shot in the arm, and a sixth man fell badly wounded in the
leg.
[Illustration: 74^{TH} HIGHLANDERS STORMING THE AMATOLAS.]
The men's mess-tins and folded coats were grazed and torn on every
side, and their firelocks shattered in their hands; in one or two
instances the barrels were perforated as though they had been soft lead.
Under this fire we sent out two companies in skirmishing order, and
climbing from rock to rock, exchanging shots with the enemy at close
quarters, crowned the ridge with a cheer, and carried the position,
driving off the defenders, who took refuge in a dense forest a few
hundred yards in the rear. We now stood in their fortress, which was
scattered with remains of roasted marrow bones and torn cartridge
covers, the rocks stained with fresh blood. We were astonished at the
strength of the position, which might have been held by a hundred
regular troops against such a force as ours, with great loss to the
assailants. Towards this forest (of fine timber, the first we had seen
in the country), we quickly advanced across the intervening belt of
turf-covered table-land. Here again they had the advantage of position;
for unseen themselves, they opened a severe fire on us, killing one of
our non-commissioned officers at the first volley, the ball passing
right through his heart. Our Colonel and the Major very narrowly
escaped, a bullet cutting through the clothes of the former by the
waist; while the Major's haversac was shot through. Two more men fell
wounded, and another, shot through the brain, dropped dead without
a groan. The word _forward_ was given by our gallant Colonel, who
himself set the example, and we dashed into the wood under a rattling
fire, and gave them another volley, which must have told severely; for
though they always carry off their dead and wounded to prevent their
casualties being known, we found as we advanced the bodies of five
lying dead in one place, and twelve in another; and as we plunged after
them into the tangled forest, the _blood-spoor_ showed where others
had fallen. The change was so great from the glare of the sunshine
to the gloom of the forest, its thick foliage overhead interwoven
with _baboon-ropes_ and creepers, that we could hardly distinguish
our enemies as they darted swiftly from cover to cover. Five rebel
Hottentots were killed in a hole or pit half-hidden by bush. Another
of our men was shot dead by a Kaffir perched in the thick branches
of a lofty tree, from which he was brought down, riddled with balls,
the body tumbling with a crash into the thicket beneath. A cluster of
Kaffir and "hartebeest" or Hottentot huts (the former shaped like a
huge bee-hive, the latter like a patrol-tent) was set fire to, without
its being known, till half consumed, that they contained a number of
wounded Kaffirs.
We continued skirmishing as they retired before us, dodging from tree
to rock, and from rock to bush, taking advantage of every cover to give
us a shot, while we kept up an incessant "independent-file-firing,"
as they retreated, step by step, till lost in thickets, impervious to
anything but wild beasts or Kaffirs. Having driven them into their
inaccessible retreats among the extensive forests clothing the higher
steppes of the mountain, and inflicted a considerable loss upon them,
we skirmished through a belt of wood on our right, and after completely
scouring it debouched on an _open_, where we halted in column, and for
the first time for nine hours sat down to rest our weary limbs. Here we
assisted the surgeon in performing different operations on the wounded,
whose cries for water were so constant, that our canteens were soon
left without a drop to moisten our own lips, parched and blistered by
the sun.
It was now two o'clock, and as not one of us had yet broken his fast,
it may easily be imagined with what appetite we gnawed at our black
biscuit. While thus engaged the enemy was observed stealing out, one by
one, from the forest, and collecting on the open table-land, where our
gallant fellows lay dead; and to our indignation we saw them, through
the telescope, stripping the bodies, without our being able to prevent
it, a deep gorge separating us; a few well-directed conical balls, from
heavy metalled rifles by Egg and Purday, dispersed them at a distance
of three-quarters of a mile; one was seen to fall. The party were rebel
Hottentots (Cape Corps deserters), and Kaffirs, the latter perfectly
naked, and armed with guns and assegais; two or three we could
distinguish wearing the kaross, with head-dresses of feathers, from
which fact, and their being the centre of divers knots, we concluded
they were chiefs and _headmen_, holding councils of war.
We were joined here by the General and the rest of the forces,
including Colonel Sutton's column, which had successfully attacked the
enemy on the Victoria Heights, driving them from their position, and
killing twenty, but with a loss of three men killed and five wounded
(two of them mortally), and had burnt and destroyed two of their
villages, which we saw blazing away fiercely, and sending up volumes of
smoke on the Little Amatola across the valley. During our brief rest
the rebels sent a messenger of truce to say they wished to surrender.
Lieut.-Col. Sutton, riding out by desire of the General, held a parley
with about fifty or sixty of them at the edge of the wood. They stated
that they wished to leave their Kaffir allies, and requested a week to
collect their own people, when they would give themselves up. But, as
the General, of course, insisted on immediate surrender, and granted
only half an hour instead of a week, they quickly disappeared into the
forest, their object having evidently been only to gain time.
Observing the enemy again assembling on their former ground, the
General ordered the 74th to return through the forest once more. As
we worked our difficult way through the underwood, taking care not to
lose sight of our right and left files, we kept a sharp look out every
step of our way; for each thicket, hollow trunk, or jackal's hole, tuft
of grass, or lofty tree, may conceal the stealthy Kaffir when least
expected; in an instant the silent forest is suddenly peopled with a
legion of naked savages, springing, as it were, out of the earth, with
a deadly volley from their unsuspected ambuscade.
We passed the dead body of one of our men stripped naked, lying in
the jungle with a ghastly wound in his chest; but having orders to
advance through the belt, and join the column on the other side, it
was impossible to stop to bury or remove it. When the column came up,
a grave was dug for the other men; and the Colonel, on my reporting
having seen the body, sent me back with half a dozen men to bring it
in. We had, therefore, to retrace our steps about a quarter of a mile
through the forest, at the edge of which a guard was placed to render
us assistance if attacked. The magnificent trees, and the fallen trunks
in various stages of decay, overgrown with creepers, or green with
moss, forcibly reminded one of the backwoods of Canada. We proceeded in
perfect silence, with arms ready at a moment's warning, and again came
up to the body. The stems of two or three young trees, picked up by the
way, and tied together by wild vine, served as a stretcher, on which
we bore the body back, and without interruption, nearly to the edge of
the wood. As we stopped at this point to change bearers, a sound like
the sharp crack of a dry stick was heard; but as we could see no one,
and a dead silence reigned around, we resumed our burden, from whose
reopened wound a pool of blood had flowed where it had rested. We had
just gained the open ground, when suddenly along the face of the wood
there blazed a sharp fire of musketry, and the enemy sprang from every
bush; our comrades of the extended company at the same moment briskly
returning their fire. The balls again whistled past us, lodging in the
trees with a sharp _thud_, or ploughing up the ground. One of our men
was severely wounded in the knee, and died afterwards while undergoing
amputation; the rest plunged into the forest in pursuit of the enemy,
who left seven dead on the ground, carrying off many more dead and
wounded. This interruption passed, we proceeded with the corpse to
the grave, which the men had dug in the soft soil with their hands,
billhooks, and bayonets, where we buried it with the two other bodies
of the poor fellows who had fallen; and, having filled up the grave,
carefully sprinkled it with dead leaves and sticks, a precaution which,
as we afterwards learned from a Kaffir prisoner, was of no avail, for
the crafty wretches soon found the spot, and dragging the bodies out,
exposed them, as they said white men ought to be, "to the sun and the
vulture."
We learned that whilst we were returning with the dead body an armed
party of Hottentots came up, and sat down with Lieut. Gordon, who was
posted with the company extended along the edge of the forest, and
asked for bread and tobacco, stating themselves to belong to one of
our native Levies, at that time at no great distance, and whom they
strongly resembled in dress. Among them was a man in the Cape Corps
uniform, who, when questioned as to his being on foot and in the bush,
said he belonged to "troop A, Captain C----'s" and had, with several
others, been ordered to dismount, and skirmish with the Levies, their
horses being done up. Strongly suspecting they were rebels, but not
liking to act on mere suspicion, Gordon went to request the Colonel
to see them; but the moment the rascals saw them approaching the spot
where they sat talking to our men, they jumped to their feet, and just
as the Colonel shouted, "Shoot them down," fired a random volley,
followed so instantaneously by the fire of the company that the two
appeared as one report, three of the rebels falling on the spot, beside
those killed and wounded at the moment we emerged from the wood.
Simultaneously with the above attack, a combined movement was effected
by the 2nd division, under Colonel Mackinnon, which was separated
into two columns; the first, under his own immediate command, moving
from the Quilliquilli along the left bank of the Keiskamma; and the
second, under Lieut.-Col. Michell, proceeding to the Keiskamma Hoek. In
conjunction with the operations of the two main divisions, the troops
from the garrison of Fort Cox, under the command of Lieut.-Col. Cooper,
harassed the enemy in the valleys of the Keiskamma, thus "penetrating
the mountains in four columns, converging to a common centre upon
the principal strongholds of the enemy." A large native force, under
Captain Tylden, R.E., was also placed in position on the Windogelberg,
in order to prevent them making for the country beyond the Kei.
It was now near dusk, and having been out since five in the morning we
were not sorry to hear the order to return to camp. As we descended
the steep pass, stormed in the morning, the lines of camp-fires were
seen blazing cheerfully on the darkening plain below, where the rest
of the division was already bivouacked. Having again forded the river,
on approaching the lines, the officers and men of the 91st came out to
meet us. They had got fires lighted, and wood and water ready for our
wearied men, and helping to carry in our wounded, shared their coffee
with us. Whilst sitting round the fires we talked over the stirring
events of the day, lamenting the fate of the brave fellows who had
marched out with us that morning in as high health and spirits as
ourselves, and now lay in their lonely graves on the heights above.
Shortly after nightfall it was discovered that there was no water left
in camp, and, being the orderly officer, I was sent with an armed party
to bring a supply from the river, about a quarter of a mile from the
sentries, and (being thickly skirted with bush) a very likely ambuscade
for Kaffirs, who have a taste for lurking round camps at night. We
left the lines quietly, made our way across the dark plain, and soon
reached the river, which we heard, rather than saw, rushing along
between its shady banks. The water-party filled their load of canteens
without interruption, but the return to camp, which on this side was
occupied by the Levies, was rather a hazardous affair, for the Fingoes
have a stupid way of firing first and challenging afterwards. As a
precautionary measure, therefore, before he could see our approach,
we commenced shouting "Friend!" to the sentry who had passed us out,
and also been specially warned of our return; a bright flash was the
immediate answer, and a ball whizzed close over our heads: down we all
went flat on our faces, shouting "_Friend!_" more lustily than before,
as a second shot was fired at us; the stir and jabber among the rest of
the Fingoes, which also prevented our being heard, promised a general
sortie, in which case we should be shot or assegaied to a moral, so we
took advantage of the sentry's reloading to jump to our feet, and make
a dash for it; to their great astonishment, rushing almost into their
arms, shouting "Friend, friend, you scoundrels, friend!"
The wounded, who lay groaning all night by a fire on the open field,
suffered acutely from the cold; their distressing cries, together with
the unusual hardness of the ground, kept us awake a great part of the
night.
We afterwards learned that the enemy's loss was considerably greater
than we had imagined, several Chiefs were amongst the slain; Beta, and
Pitoi Son-of-Vongya, two of great note. Sandilli, who was present, and
directing the movements of his men, was very nearly taken prisoner,
escaping only by creeping on his hands and knees through the thickest
part of the bush.
The morning after the fight rose dull and misty, and the top of the
mountain range was hidden by white fleecy clouds that rolled half-way
down. Not long after daylight a Gaika woman, with a child tied on her
back, approached the camp, and coolly walked about among the tents and
fires, looking for anything she could appropriate.
The Kaffirs were heard on the heights, every word distinctly audible,
shouting to us, "_Nina Ez'innqulo! yinina ukuba niyalusa pzu kwentaba
enje izinqulala?_" (Halloa, you Tortoises! why do you keep us up here
in the cold?) They distinguished the 74th by this soubriquet, on
account of a fancied resemblance between the regimental tartan, and the
chequered tortoises that abound on their plains; it afterwards became
general among all the other tribes, and was not unfrequently used by
our own people.
After sending off our wounded in waggons, under a cavalry escort, to
the standing camp at Quesana, we again ascended the same range, though
at another point, and by three different routes; the 91st and native
Levies by a pass about a mile to our right; the cavalry by another,
at some distance on our left; ours, in the centre, though a somewhat
shorter course, was by far the steepest and most trying. The men,
loaded with their rations, blankets, great coats, firelocks, and sixty
rounds of ball cartridge, were so fatigued under the overpowering heat
of the noonday sun, that the whole column constantly halted, literally
unable to move for the moment. During our ascent, the enemy showed
in small bodies on several points, but did not attempt in any way to
oppose us; and all three columns met on the table land above, without
having fired a shot. After marching about seven miles further, without
seeing anything of the enemy, we descended into the Zanooka valley, a
beautiful green basin completely surrounded by a splendid amphitheatre
of high wooded mountains. The Fingoes plundered a Kaffir village of
considerable quantities of maize, discovered buried in large circular
holes, neatly plastered over, in the floors of the huts, to which they
afterwards set fire. Here we bivouacked, while General Somerset, taking
with him the Cape Corps, and Hottentot and Fingoe Levies, proceeded
along the head of the Liguey Stream; where, observing a party of the
enemy posted in the forest intersecting the ridge of Mount Macdonald,
he moved forward to attack them with the cavalry, and after a brisk
skirmish and heavy firing on both sides, drove them back, and on the
Levies coming up completely routed them. Descending into the valley of
the Keiskamma, he returned, by a long circuit, to the bivouac, about
dusk, when the enemy began to creep in nearer, and fire long shots at
the groups gathered round the blazing fires. A few bullets dropped
amongst us now and then; by one of which a Levy officer was shot in the
leg, as he was drinking his coffee. At length, becoming bolder and more
troublesome, a party of skirmishers was sent out to disperse them; and
we sat watching the singular conflict, of which nothing was visible but
the two long straggling broken lines of flashing musketry; one retiring
as the other advanced up the dark mountain side. The beauty of the
effect was heightened by the prolonged rolling of the reports echoing
among the crags.
The whole column moved out of the basin shortly after sunrise, and
ascended Mount Macdonald, reaching the summit at ten o'clock, where
we halted; while the corps of Levies were detached into the valley
of the Zanooka to intercept the enemy's cattle, the spoor of which
was traced in that direction. Small parties of Kaffirs were observed
at some distance descending by different paths, into the valley of
the Keiskamma, and the bivouac we had just left was soon covered with
their dusky figures. The view from this elevation was most beautiful,
comprising the whole of the Zanooka valley with its dark and extensive
forests, sheltered glens, and smooth grassy slopes, through which wound
the Tsimuka, now roaring along, foaming among masses of red rock, then
lost among the overhanging trees to appear again between smooth and
verdant banks, dancing and glittering in the dazzling sunshine.
The standing camp of the 2nd Division was clearly visible on a large
plain about ten miles off: the troops were patrolling in the wooded
valleys between us, and in communication with the General.
After completely scouring the bush at our feet, the Levies passed
down the valley, skirmishing with scattered parties of rebels, and
setting fire to their huts; finally returning under cover of the Cape
Corps, which occupied the heights above under the immediate command
of the General, with three hundred and fifty head of cattle, which we
escorted along the ridges to our former bivouac of the 26th in the
Amatola valley; leaving two companies of the 91st regiment to cover
the return of the Levies. This they effected leisurely and without
molestation, till the top of the pass was gained, leading down to the
plain on which we were already bivouacked; when, just as it was growing
dusk, they were attacked in the rear by a few straggling Kaffirs,
who, taking advantage of the bush which commanded the pass, opened a
dropping fire upon them, severely wounding the Captain of the Levies in
the arm, which was afterwards amputated. The 91st fired a volley into
their cover, which silenced them for a few minutes; but the Levies,
exasperated by the wounding of their officer, kept up an incessant
roll of musketry in spite of our bugles; which, in front of the
General's patrol-tent, sounded the "cease firing" for full ten minutes.
As the darkness increased the combatants were gradually lost to sight,
and the flashing of their muskets grew brighter, but less frequent,
till they ceased altogether. The wounded man, Captain Melville, was
shortly after borne into the camp on a stretcher by the Fingoes, and
the weary 91st found their fires lighted by our men, who shared their
supper, scanty as it was, with their exhausted companions.
At eight o'clock on Sunday morning, unwashed and unshaven, with
tattered clothes and rusty arms, we marched for our standing camp
on the Quesana; climbed the face of the intervening mountain, and
crossing its ridge, saw the white tents spread on the plain below,
which we gained in a couple of hours, and lost no time in realizing the
longed-for luxuries of a bathe and a clean shirt.
The officers left behind, had got ready a large camp-kettle of coffee,
round which, _tin-tot_ in hand, we all squatted, from the Colonel
downwards, and read the General's Despatch, and the honourable mention
made of our exertions.
For three days the camp remained stationary, the General being absent
at Fort Hare, and the troops awaiting commissariat supplies from
thence. On the 2nd July, however, we were again in motion, ascending
at day-break another part of the same range as before, for the purpose
of clearing the eastern range of the Victoria Heights, and of again
attacking the enemy's fastnesses in the forests at the southern point
of the Hogsback.
After a tedious climb, we gained the top of the path, and looked down
on the plain we had just left, where the pack-horses and mules, like
pigmies, wound along towards the foot of the ascent. We halted for a
couple of hours on the top of a lower ridge, extended in skirmishing
order, lying down among the rocks and shrubs along the edge, looking
down into the dense bush below, in which were numerous scattered
kraals. From these, as the Fingoes crashing through the underwood
were heard advancing through the cover, firing, yelling, and setting
everything combustible in flames, the naked Kaffirs stealthily crept,
unaware of the sharpshooters above.
In the meantime, a party of the 91st and European Levies attacked the
forest stronghold at the southern point of the Hogsback, and thoroughly
cleared it of the enemy, burnt their huts, and obliged the inhabitants
to take refuge in the highest fastnesses of the lofty Chumie. Two large
villages, which, from being of the same colour as the rocks among
which they stood, had hitherto escaped our notice, now broke out in
flames, sending up into the still air clouds of heavy white smoke,
which were seen twenty miles off. The Fingoe and Hottentot Levies,
who had been despatched down the valley of the Amatola, burning every
kraal on their way, came on a lair, or hiding-place, from which we on
the heights could now see the Kaffirs hastily escaping in an opposite
direction, their chief, Oba, "son-of-Tyali," plainly discernible riding
off amongst them, just as the patrol reached the place; so sudden
and unexpected was the discovery and attack of this retreat, that
everything was abandoned, and Tyali's wives and children, and those of
Oba and other Kaffir grandees, were taken prisoners. A large quantity
of karosses, arms, ornaments, and skins, were taken, also the chiefs
head-dress of cranes' wings (the insignia of rank), with the full-dress
jacket and cap presented to him by Sir H. Smith. The whole of the
kraals were burnt to the ground. The captured women were marched
through our ranks shortly afterwards, on their way to the General:
their stately carriage and dignified step were most striking, as they
moved haughtily along with the indescribable ease and grace of manner
peculiar to both Kaffir and Fingo women. Having been examined and
interrogated to little purpose by the General's interpreter, they were
set at liberty, and wending their way back towards their kraal, now a
heap of smoking ruins, descended the hill, and were soon lost to sight
in the bush below.
The pasturage round our standing camp having become particularly
scanty, we moved, the following morning, to the N'caga, or
Yellow-Woods, three miles distant.
Just as we had pitched tents, the English mail arrived; and as the
welcome news spread like wildfire, hurrying from all sides, we flocked
towards the panting post-horses, and as the dusty leather bags were
emptied on the grass, crowded eagerly round for the anxiously-expected
letters, considerably bewildering the Camp-Sergeant-Major by our
zealous assistance in sorting them. Those lucky enough to get letters
from home retired to their tents, or to the shade of some tree beyond
the bustling camp, to enjoy them--the disappointed vowing never to
write home again. The escort with the mail had been attacked in the
Ecca valley; the officer in charge (Ensign Gill, C.M.R.), having had
his horse shot under him, one of his men killed, and two wounded.
We were permitted to rest in camp next day, though parties of Fingoes
were out in all directions, burning and destroying the deserted
Kaffir kraals. The whole afternoon they kept pouring into camp laden
with their spoils; large quantities of _amazimba_, Kaffir corn,[8]
ornaments, head-dresses, and every kind of Kaffir traps and toggery.
Several women were also brought in prisoners, but sent about their
business after an interview with the General's interpreter, much to
the disappointment of their Fingoe captors, who, finding they were not
to have the pleasure of putting them to death as they had anticipated,
and highly incensed at their being allowed to return unharmed to their
own people after the trouble they had been at in taking them, followed
the liberated captives out of the camp, heaping on them every curse and
abuse in the Kaffir vocabulary, and thrashing them with their _keeries_
(long heavy sticks), which, however, was summarily put a stop to by us,
as soon as noticed.
The part of the camp allotted to these most zealous allies presented a
variety of novel and striking scenes. On all sides the eye encountered
black fellows of stalwart frame, arraying themselves in the ornaments
and insignia of despoiled _Inkosi_ and _Amapakati_,[9] singing to
themselves in a deep guttural chant, and dancing in a slow jerking
step to some monotonous measure. In a wide clear space a ring of some
three score of these athletic forms, blankets and karosses thrown
aside, began a war-dance to the strange chorus of their deep voices,
accompanied by regular tapping on a shield of ox-hide. The performers
shook their gleaming assegais in the air, and jerked their supple
frames to and fro, lifting their feet alternately, or jumping with
both, as they sung, in perfect harmony, a wild air, swelling from a
low organ-like hum to the full power of their lungs; hissing like
serpents, and creeping with bent bodies round and round, and in and
out, as if on the spoor of the enemy; then breaking out into cries and
yells, stabbing furiously at the imaginary victim in their centre, and
shaking their bodies backward and forward, from the knees upward, till
the perspiration streamed from every pore. Each verse of the war-song,
which was an improvised commemoration of their late achievements, was
given by a single voice in a loud recitative, and then caught up by the
whole in an astounding chorus,
Ezani, ezani nina Amaxosa,
Sobula noko,--sobula noko,--
Sobula-lá, no-kó![10]
In another quarter, round a large iron pot of boiled Kaffir corn, a
knot of gormandizers were collected, throwing handful after handful
of the swelled and steaming grain down their throats with a steady
perseverance perfectly astonishing; while stretched around lay others,
watching them with looks of mingled helplessness and envy, their own
stomachs already gorged to the utmost limit.
A party of _headmen_ and older warriors, seated cross-legged in their
tents, ceremoniously smoked the _dagha-pipe_, a kind of hookah, made of
a bullock's horn, its downward point filled with water, and a reed stem
let into the side, surmounted by a rough bowl of stone, which is filled
with the _dahga_, a species of hemp, very nearly, if not the same, as
the Indian _bang_. Each individual in the circle receives it in turn,
opens his jaws to their full extent, and placing his lips to the wide
open mouth of the horn, takes a few pulls and passes it on. Retaining
the last draught of smoke in his mouth, which he fills with a decoction
of bark and water from a calabash, he squirts it on the ground by
his side through a long ornamented tube in his left hand, performing
thereon, by the aid of a reserved portion of the liquid, a sort of
boatswain's whistle, complacently regarding the soap-like bubbles, the
joint production of himself and neighbour. It appeared to be a sign of
special friendliness and kindly feeling to squirt into the same hole.
For a few shillings and a little tobacco, we obtained a number of
handsome ornaments taken from the huts of some of the members of the
Gaika Royal Family, such as bracelets, karosses, &c., with the singular
head-dresses, _umnqwazi_, made of otter skin and beautiful bead work,
which are the insignia peculiar to female royalty in Kaffirland.
Next day we returned to Fort Hare, and encamped on the plain at some
distance from the walls. Here we expected to have had a short rest
after the incessant marching and countermarching of the last few days,
as the morrow would be Sunday, but were doomed to be disappointed, for
soon after sunrise tents were again struck, and as the early chapel
bell tolled for first service, we marched through the straggling
village of Alice, the clean Sunday dressed settlers wishing us
"God-speed," and the young Fingoes, as usual, dancing round our Pipers
in ecstasies of delight. The 91st were left behind to garrison the Fort.
After a hot and dusty march we halted at noon to rest the oxen,
near the ruined and deserted settlement of Ely, one of the military
villages destroyed by the enemy at the commencement of the war; the
houses of _wattle and daub_ still standing, though without doors or
windows, appeared, from the numerous articles left in them, such as
spades, axes, bayonets, assegais, bridles, and kettles, to have been
most precipitately abandoned. A march of some miles further, and we
encamped towards evening, about a mile from Fort Beaufort, within
sight of the foreign-looking little town with its surrounding clusters
of neatly built Fingoe kraals. Next morning we passed through the
town, where there are large excellent stone-built barracks, and some
snug-looking staff-quarters, with cool verandahs, and high hedges of
prickly-pear, enclosing green compounds, adorned with shady trees and
large American aloes. It was broiling hot, and we were followed, as
usual, by hundreds of Fingoes and Hottentots, while others huddled
round their kraals in motley groups, and in every stage of undress--old
shrivelled patriarchs, with blear eyes and grizzly heads; haggard
witches, with long withered breasts hanging down to their waists;
mothers suckling the children tied on their backs; men, as an apology
for dress, covering one shoulder with a short kaross; and women, with
the most incredible posterior development, whose sole attire was a skin
or kilt tied round the waist, reaching barely to the knee; while scores
of naked little imps, with enormous stomachs, scuttled about in every
direction.
Crossing the Kat river, by a stone bridge, a curiosity in this part
of the world, we marched through an uninteresting bushy country,
to Clu-clu, where we halted and pitched our camp, half the tents
being hidden from one another by the mimosa bushes. Though one of
the commonest, this is certainly one of the prettiest trees of the
country; its light and graceful form, bright green feathery foliage,
golden clusters of globular blossom, filling the air with the most
delicious perfume, and bristling array of gigantic white thorns, from
three to six inches long, thickly studding every twig, make it at all
times a striking object. Fortunately there was plenty of shade, and we
lay till sundown under a fine tree, enjoying the unusual repose. The
greater part of the native Levy attached to our brigade joined here,
having marched from Fort Beaufort, after many parting cups, in a very
independent and jovial manner, and contrived to shoot their officer on
the road.
7th.--At daylight, we were awakened by a pouring rain pattering
heavily on our patrol-tents, and congratulated ourselves that we were
not likely to march; but in less than five minutes the bugle sounded
"strike tents," and the operation of pulling up pegs immediately
commencing, we had to bundle out and arrange our toilet in the storm.
The rain having put out every fire, and the unexpected march upset the
calculations of servants as well as masters, there was no coffee to be
had, and we marched without it.
A party of Cape Corps, which had been out during the night, returned
with two hundred sheep, and seventy head of cattle, having killed
several Kaffirs. Four miles marching across a plain, bounded on
the left by fog, and on the right by the dark range of the Kromme,
covered by a canopy of heavy white clouds, brought us to our halt
for breakfast, by the so-called Yellow Wood River, a large gully,
containing here and there small pools of water, its course marked
across the otherwise bare plain by a belt of the large willow-like
trees,[11] from which it derives its name. We discovered here the
corpse of one of the enemy killed by the Cape Corps party, and not far
off a wounded Kaffir, brought to this point by his comrades, whom, it
seemed, we had nearly surprised at their fires, on which the meat was
still cooking, or rather, burning. The wounded man wore round his neck
a fine string of tiger's teeth, which one of the Levy officers cut off
and gave me. On seeing the knife approach his throat, the poor fellow
thought it was all over with him, and clasping his hands, with a deep
groan, closed his eyes. He appeared as much relieved as surprised to
find he had only lost his necklace. The Fingoes, as usual, wanted
to kill him, but were prevented by the officers, who left the dying
warrior some bread and water, and placed him under the shade in an
easier posture.
The sun now shone bright and hot. Our way lay across the steaming
plain, on which clumps of mimosa again began to appear; here and there
the blackened ruins of some unfortunate settler's house showed traces
of the destroying enemy. Towards sunset we came to another green belt
of trees that for some time had formed the only break in the parched
and level plain, and crossed the deep Koonap River in separate bodies,
simultaneously, at four or five different points, by narrow slippery
ledges of rock running across it, and forming small waterfalls, over
which several of the men slipped into the intervening pools, and, of
course, got a thorough ducking.
Soon after the camp was pitched, a party of our cavalry, whose firing
we had seen on the hills, came in with three hundred sheep and a few
oxen and horses, (belonging to the owner of one of the ruined farms,)
which they had retaken from the enemy, seven of whom they had killed,
losing one man.
8th.--Parade at six, A.M.; bitterly cold, the ground white with hoar
frost, and the water in our tents incrusted with ice; by nine o'clock
it was warm to inconvenience, and, in the sun, scorching hot. We
wandered, gun in hand, along the wooded banks of the river, where we
put up several large monkeys and green and crimson parrots. An iguana
was shot by Gordon, about three feet and a half long, just as it was
wriggling down the bank to reach the water. Our patrols again returned
from a successful pursuit after marauders, recapturing one hundred
sheep and seventy head of cattle, with a loss of three on the side of
the enemy.
In two or three days the scanty pasturage, what with the scorching
sun and the hungry cattle, had become so miserable as to compel us to
change our camp. Accordingly, on the 11th, we struck tents and moved
further up the river, halting near a deserted station, or _Post_.
Four empty roofless houses, and a chapel without doors, were all
that remained of it. The former still contained some common broken
furniture, which the men borrowed; and benches, tables, and arm chairs,
were placed round the camp fires, forming the oddest scene imaginable.
The Fingoes, in their ignorance, made a like use of the fittings of the
chapel; the pulpit was found at one of their fires, converted, with the
aid of a blanket or two, into a snug sort of kennel; it was, of course,
immediately ordered back by the Commanding-officer, in double-quick
time, together with the font, in which they were grinding coffee with a
round stone.
For two or three days we remained in camp, and our time was occupied in
parade and drills, the "extension motions" greatly amusing the Fingoes,
who seemed to imagine that the squads of men, swinging their arms, and
balancing themselves on one foot, were performing a solemn war dance.
Macomo was at this time reported to be in the neighbourhood with a
large hostile force, and a party was sent out against him, before
daylight on the 14th, consisting of five companies of the 74th
Highlanders, a six-pounder howitzer, two hundred Cape Corps, and
the Levies. The patrol was absent two days, and went through some
hard work, having to drag the gun, by hand, up the steep and narrow
Water-Kloof-Pass, and lift it bodily over large felled trees, placed
across the path by the enemy. A number of Kaffirs were seen, and the
artillery was brought to bear upon them; owing to the nature of the
cover in which they took refuge, the effect could not be ascertained,
though from the precision with which the shells were dropped, their
loss must have been considerable. On our side the casualties were two
men killed and one wounded, a couple of horses also being killed.
On the morning of their return I was sent with an escort of one hundred
men to convey to Fort Beaufort a train of waggons, containing a
quantity of spare arms and accoutrements to go into the ordnance store,
with some slaughter oxen for the use of that garrison, and to bring
back commissariat supplies for the camp. We were joined on the way,
for the sake of protection, by a burgher fleeing from his farm, with
his wife and family, and three thousand sheep. We soon neared the spot
where, about a week ago, the wounded Kaffir had been left; two or three
_asvogels_, or vultures, skimmed heavily along the ground from a black
object, which proved to be his body, already half devoured.
On the approach of evening we halted on the _open_, drawing up the
waggons in a circle, with their dissel-booms outwards. The fires were
lighted in the inner space, and the sentries posted about fifty yards
outside, with an outlying picquet of Fingoes, for the night was pitch
dark, and the neighbourhood infested with Kaffirs, to whom our flocks
and herds were a great temptation. Wrapped in a plaid, I sat by the
fire contemplating the scene within our little encampment; on one
side the soldiers chatted merrily and carelessly over their supper;
on the other were the Fingoes, jabbering in their strange dialect;
some cutting up lumps of meat with their sharp assegais, and others
lying round the fires in wild groups; while the Hottentot drivers, and
fore-loupers, sat under their own waggons smoking apart; the whole
brightly illuminated by the blazing fires reflected from the circular
wall of white covered waggons. One by one, the men dropped off to
sleep, and I was soon left to my own thoughts, surrounded by motionless
forms rolled in blankets.
On going the rounds at ten o'clock, I found the Fingoe Levies had very
coolly left their posts, and were sleeping comfortably by the picquet
fire among their comrades. Calling their sergeant, an immensely big
fellow, he rushed to the fire, and kicked up the slumbering figures
one after another, overhauling them without ceremony by arms and legs,
sorting and turning them over like a creel of fish, shouting all the
time at the top of his voice. Having found the delinquents, and awarded
them "extra guards" as a punishment, with a threat of the _jambok_, or
still more dreaded stoppage of rations, in case of further offence, we
marched them back to their posts giving them to understand, that as
they would be visited every half hour, it would be advisable to keep a
good look out.
What with the angry and incessant barking of the dogs, the
uninterrupted bleating of sheep, and the loud snoring of the oxen, all
attempts to sleep were in vain. So I sat up, and squatting by the fire,
amused myself with piling on fresh wood, wishing by the way, as the
picture of old Horace occurred to me--
"Ligna super foco large reponens," &c.,
that I could lay my hand on some of the "quadrimum merum," to render
the comparison a little more happy.
At three o'clock the moon rose, and I awoke the bivouac by
shouting--"Inspan." Instantly all were alive; the Hottentots tumbled
out of their waggons, the men jumped to their feet and folded their
blankets, the sentries were called in, and in ten minutes we were
"trekking" across the plain. As we descended the little hollow of the
Clu-clu, enveloped in a thick fog, the change was most extraordinary,
the chilly raw air striking through us instantaneously, and as suddenly
ceasing on our emerging from it on the opposite side. In many places
the bush by the wayside glowed with bright scarlet clusters of the
bignonia,[12] which wreathed among the trees. Suddenly Fort Beaufort
opened on us, in the centre of a green plain below, the fine mountains
of the Elandsberg and Tyumie forming a noble background.
We found the town looking wretchedly dull and deserted, the garrison
being reduced to a small detachment only of the Cape Mounted Rifles,
besides the Levies.
The Commandant ordered the Commissariat to have the waggons loaded by
dark, as the General had directed their return by moonlight.
We accordingly started at nine o'clock the same evening, but with only
half the original escort, the Fingoes not making their appearance
at the appointed time, their invariable custom on such occasions,
remaining behind, making merry in the kraals of their friends, with a
glorious disregard of time, and orders. An attack was fully expected,
as well on account of our reduced numbers and heavily-laden waggons
as from the fact that our errand and return were as well known to the
enemy as ourselves. At midnight we halted to let the oxen graze for
a couple of hours, while the men threw themselves down on the grass
to snatch a little sleep. At two we were off again. Dark glens, hill,
dale, and bush, were passed without interruption, and we were once more
on open ground. The encampment having been moved during our absence, I
rode forward with the _Conductor_ (a most valuable assistant, attached
to each train of government waggons), for about two miles, cantering
from one rise to another, looking out for the fires, which we at last
discovered at a considerable distance, and turning back, put the
waggons on the right track, and reached the camp at daylight.
For a week we remained stationary, patrols going out almost daily to
different parts of the neighbourhood to check the enemy, who would
suddenly appear in the most opposite directions; one day, for instance,
attacking a train of waggons in the Mancazana, and killing seven of
the escort; and two days after, firing on the post riders between Fort
Beaufort and Graham's Town, killing six on the spot, and wounding three
others.
Those of us who remained in camp amused themselves with quail shooting,
or with reading under the shade of the yellow-wood trees. Hundreds of
turtle-doves swarmed in every direction; and though at first there
were some scruples about killing them, they were soon remorselessly
shot and converted into pigeon pies. Monkeys and brilliantly-plumaged
_touracos_, or crested parrots, of a dark green, with purple and
crimson tails and wings, filled the belt of the wood along the river
with their discordant chattering.
One morning, in beating for quail along a reedy _sluit_, or
watercourse, we came on the corpses of some of the Kaffirs killed
during the late patrols, which, half devoured by vultures and jackals,
lay festering in the jungle.
For three days we endured the misery of a sand storm. The hot air
was filled with clouds of fine red sand, driven by a burning wind,
and shutting out every object at a few yards' distance, blinding the
eyes and stifling the breath, while it not only penetrated the tents,
covering everything with a thick red coating, but even found its way
into every box and valise. Nothing can be more wretchedly uncomfortable
than one of these inflictions, unluckily but too common. The skin
becomes dry and hot; an irresistible lassitude is felt, accompanied
with headache; the face and hair are red with sand, which, to complete
the discomfort, finds its way even under one's clothing. No one
ventures out who can possibly avoid it, though even a house is but a
partial protection, the closest-fitting doors and windows failing to
exclude the finer particles, as the red hue of the furniture quickly
shows. Those who, like ourselves, had no choice, braved the storm, with
heads bent down and eyes half shut, or shielded by wire goggles with
dark blue glasses, giving a most comical aspect to the wearer.
The sand storm at last blown over, we saw in the evening a dense smoke
rising about two miles off. A reconnoitring party discovered that the
enemy had set fire to the grass, a common expedient with them to oblige
us to abandon a position inconvenient to themselves, by destroying the
pasturage, and a mode of ejectment so effective, as generally to have
no remedy but to trek.
As night advanced, the spectacle was really grand, and all turned out
of their tents to look at it; the whole plain, for miles in extent,
being one sheet of flame, tinging the sky with a lurid red.
FOOTNOTES:
[8] Holcus Caffrorum.
[9] Chiefs and councillors.
[10]
Come on--come on, you Kaffirs!--
We will kill you--we will kill you!
[11] Taxus elongatus.
[12] Tecoma Capensis.
CHAPTER V.
REIT FONTEIN--STANDING CAMP--MARCH TO SOMERSET--ACTION ON KROMME
HEIGHTS--RETURN TO FORT BEAUFORT.
Having been thus served with notice to quit, we stayed but two days
longer, and then struck tents and marched across the dreary charred
plain for nine miles; our clothes, hands, and faces soon becoming as
grim as the blackened ground, from which clouds of impalpable ashes
rose at every step.
We halted at a deserted farm house called Reit Fontein, having had
several shots by the way, at duykerbok and koran,[13] a species of
bustard, highly and deservedly esteemed; its flesh, when roasted, is
very like that of the wild turkey of North America.
The encampment was formed near the house, a short distance from a
garden, containing a spring, by the side of which grew a large clump
of bamboo-looking reeds, upwards of twenty feet in height; whence the
name of the place. The neighbourhood abounded with duyker, bosch,
and steinbok, small varieties of the antelope tribe, found singly or
in pairs, in the more open bush; as also paauw,[14] another of the
bustards, about the size of a pheasant, with black head and breast, and
finely mottled wings and back; and parties of us went out almost daily
after them, Baird generally making the best bag.
On the 6th I started with Bruce and 200 men for Somerset, seventy
miles distant, to convoy ammunition, and bring back cattle for our
commissariat. The halt for the first night was on the Koonap, in which
we had a most refreshing bathe. The Fingoes, lower down, swimming and
splashing about like porpoises; the instant they came out of the river
they were as dry as ever, the water running off their shiny skins as
from a duck's back. On the second day we entered a vast level sandy
plain, unbroken except by immense ant hills, thousands of which dotted
its surface as far as the eye could reach, fresh ones constantly coming
in sight as we advanced. A deserted farm-house, one or two of which we
passed each day, at long intervals, served as our hotel at night. We
established ourselves in the empty echoing rooms, lighting fires in the
grates, collecting the scattered chairs and tables, and spreading our
plaids on the cartel bedsteads.
Our march next morning was still over immense plains, stretching to
the horizon. We came on more farm-houses, abandoned like the rest, in
consequence of the outrages of the enemy, and looking the pictures of
ruin and desolation; doors and windows broken, dried carcases of sheep
and oxen scattered about the front, with rusted implements of husbandry
and broken furniture; and gardens overgrown with rank waving grass.
The first herd of springbok was here seen bounding away from us; and,
though hopelessly out of shot, greatly excited our sporting ardour.
Late in the afternoon we came once more to inhabited dwellings; where,
however, we were not equally at home as in the untenanted ruins of
the previous night. We drew up our waggons at the door of a Dutch
Boer's house, in a deep hollow, where was also a little camp of Mounted
Levies, for whom we had brought a supply of ammunition. As neither the
Boer nor any of his family spoke a word of English, and we were in the
like predicament as to Dutch, and German was useless, our greeting was
in dumb show, and we bowed to each other and shook hands in solemn
silence. Several Dutch families who had fled from their farms, were
living here in their waggons, which were drawn up together for mutual
protection, close to the house, their flocks and herds grazing in
common. This lively place was called Klip-Fontein.
One of our Fingoes was caught at dusk by the sentry stealing
biscuit from the ration waggon, and was soundly flogged by his own
comrades--for being found out!
After an early cup of coffee from the Dutchman, who, with that
exception, was uncivil and surly, we wound our way up the steep
path, and again pursued the track across the sandy plain. The sun
rose magnificently behind a distant range of blue mountains. Lots of
partridges were flushed at every few yards, and afforded excellent
sport for about two hours, when we came suddenly to the edge of the
table-land, from which we looked down on a beautiful scene, the more
novel and refreshing by contrast with our late march. Instead of the
parched and arid plains we had been traversing for three days, a fine
valley lay at our feet, thickly wooded, stretching north and south,
and bounded by a range of grassy mountains, rising out of forest, and
crowned with grey cliffs. Countless acres of prickly-pear, contrasting
with the dark bush, spread across the valley, and strips of bright
red earth appearing between, gave to the whole an indescribable
warmth and sunniness. We descended for about a mile; the cry of the
wild pintado resounding on all sides; then passed through a perfect
grove of prickly-pear, eight or ten feet high, and having crossed the
Baviaans River at the Roed-Waal drift, so called from the perpendicular
red banks of the stream, rested under the shadow of the cactus for
breakfast, the sun shining fiercely. Whilst the servants were boiling
the kettle, we enjoyed a bathe in the cool rocky river overhung with
trees, the clear water tumbling and foaming over huge boulders, taking
one's thoughts back to Tweed-side and the bonnie salmon streams of old
Scotland.
Several farm-houses, fired by the Kaffirs, were smoking at a distance,
in the peaceful looking valley; and further down we found the road
strewn with grain, thickly trampled, and stained with blood; while
from under a cairn of loosely piled stones, close by among the bushes,
peeped the head and shoulders of a corpse. An old man, a ruined
settler, whose house had been destroyed by the enemy, had been trekking
this way the day before with his sons, and his last waggon-load of
grain, when they were waylaid by the Kaffirs, who cruelly murdered two
of the defenceless party. Such outrages on the heart-broken settlers
were almost of daily occurrence; often exasperating them to savage
fury, but more frequently reducing them to helpless despair.
After five and twenty miles' march, we halted at a drift on the Little
Fish River, about a mile from Somerset, which is a pretty cluster of
white houses, gardens, and orange trees, at the foot of a beautiful
green mountain. This was our resting place for two days while waiting
the arrival of the oxen, hourly expected, on their way from the
Orange River district, and which we were to escort back for the use
of the troops. In the neighbourhood is a large and celebrated orange
grove, which we visited. It lies at the entrance of a deep ravine in
the mountain, and as we rode up, the sun shone on thousands of ripe
oranges, lemons, citrons, shaddocks, and _natches_, a very small and
peculiar flavoured kind of orange. The trees, which were of great size,
bent under the weight of fruit, and down the long avenues the branches
almost met overhead. Fingoe boys, armed with guns, were protecting the
fruit from monkeys, as lads at home watch the corn-fields.
At the _Tronk_, which we visited with the Civil Commissioner, we saw
about twenty or thirty Kaffir prisoners. It was Sunday, and they were
all assembled in a large room, heavily chained, dressed merely in a
blanket, and listening, with becoming attention, to a Fingoe preaching
in their own language the full, flowing, and sonorous tones of which,
with the singular clicks occurring in every other word, sounded both
melodious and striking. A Kaffir boy was handed over to us as a
prisoner, to be taken down to General Somerset, for sentence. He had
been taken a few days before, by a Commando, which had fallen in with,
and attacked a band of marauders, of which he was the only one who
escaped. Though not more than sixteen years of age, he carried a gun
and a bundle of assegais. He had been spared by the Commandant, at
the request of his _after-rider_, who begged the boy's life from the
hard-hearted Boer, as a reward for his own long and faithful services.
He was a handsome quiet lad, and when reassured, through the kindness
of our men, who gave him a pipe and tobacco, with plenty of food and a
seat at the fire, he seemed quite happy. His name was _Uyanina_, and
he told us, through our interpreter, that his father and two brothers
had been killed in the Amatolas; and, in a quiet tone, said that he
hoped we would not kill him, as he wanted to go back to his mother. He
was told that his life was safe, but that as he could bear arms, we
could not let him loose again until after the war; with which assurance
he appeared perfectly satisfied, and lay contentedly smoking the
strongest tobacco all day long. In due time the cattle arrived, driven
by a party of strange, ragged, wild-looking Gonahs, and one thousand
sheep and seven hundred oxen were bleating and bellowing around us.
The Contractor (having provided himself with a few rounds of dry
sheep's dung, as markers) counted them over to our commissariat agent,
depositing one of the pellets in his right hand as each hundredth ox
rushed through the two trees between which they were all driven singly.
As we returned the cattle suffered severely from want of pasturage;
not a blade of grass was to be seen, and our horses, which had nothing
to eat but the leaves of trees and shrubs during the day, when tied
up at night devoured sticks, wood, dry dung, or anything chewable.
On the plain we had the good fortune to fall in with several herd of
springbok; their beautiful appearance and graceful agility delighted
us, as they leaped into the air, clearing twenty feet at a bound. A
party of Dutch Boers _jagging_ them and firing above, drove a herd in
our direction, giving us some splendid shots. I kept the head of one,
and amused myself in the evening by the camp fire, at Klip-Fontein,
by preparing it as a specimen. The tongue, liver, and heart, made an
excellent fry, though the flesh is generally dry and tasteless, and
requires all the cook's art to render it at all equal to tolerable
venison.
More herds were seen the following day, and we galloped after them,
over the level plain, for miles, without a check, cutting them off at
angles, and getting long shots every now and then. A brilliant full
moon illuminated our bivouac, and the Fingoes got up their customary
dance, which they always celebrate at the change; though no longer new
to us, it had lost none of its wild interest. A hundred and fifty fine
brawny fellows, throwing off their blankets, joined in the strange
chorus, dancing and leaping, and brandishing their gleaming assegais in
the bright moonlight.
The afternoon following found us in camp again after an absence of
eight days.
Patrols and escorts went out daily in every direction, and "light
drill," morning and evening, occupied those who remained behind.
To make our quarters a little more comfortable, we set to work and
built high circular hedges or kraals of green boughs round our fires,
the narrow entrance facing the tent door. After levelling the enclosed
space, we furnished them with camp tables and stools, for the tents,
what with the sun and the flies, were unbearable during the day, and
were used only for sleeping in. The swarms of common house-flies that
collected in our tents were really wonderful, the canvas was literally
black with them, as well as every dish and can, the moment they were
placed on the table; as soon as the sun rose, one was awakened by a
cloud of them settling on one's face, fighting in one's ears, and
buzzing in one's hair; making the most amiable men give way to harsh
language. At last we were obliged to blow them up, once or twice a day,
either by surrounding a tempting heap of ration sugar with a train of
powder, or by hoisting a charge to the top of the tent, on a board
stuck on the point of a claymore, though this plan had the disadvantage
of sometimes setting the canvas on fire, and invariably covering the
performer with a shower of singed flies.
We were frequently visited by whirlwinds, which caused a little variety
in the camp; a cloud of sand would come eddying along, tear up a
kraal, sending the bushes flying in every direction, whisk the men's
caps off their heads, whirl loose papers, shirts, and other articles
high into the air, level two or three tents, and sail away in an
opposite direction, leaving its course through the camp distinctly
marked by the track it had cleared.
Towards the end of the month it fell to my lot to escort a large train
of commissariat waggons to Graham's Town, fifty miles off. On the
Koonap hill, we passed the dead horses of the post-riders, shot there
on the 23rd of July, and saw the marks of the bullets scored along the
rocks. When in the middle of the Ecca valley we spied a large body of
red coats, who, as we neared each other, proved to be a party of the
91st, among whom were some old friends. Soon after parting with them,
a number of Kaffirs showed themselves on the hills just above us,
watching our movements.
Further down the valley a bosch-buck and a wild boar fell to my
rifle; the latter was a splendid fellow, with an enormous head; he
must have been at least five feet and a half in length, and two feet
and a half high, and had besides his two immense tusks, a singular
bony protuberance on each cheek. The Fingoes cut him up in a very few
minutes, and resumed their march, each with a joint or lump of meat
over his shoulder, spitted on his gun. This valley is said to be a
favourite resort of the boar, on account of the immense quantities of
the _strelitzia regina_, on the roots of which it feeds; we observed
many newly grubbed up; the bush glowed with its handsome red flowers.
On outspanning to feed the oxen, a body of Kaffirs showed themselves,
and hovered round the cattle with a pretty evident intention of making
a sweep of them; but perceiving we were on the alert, thought better
of it, and took themselves off.
The waggon drivers, who are the most insolent and disagreeable men in
the world to have anything to do with, having refused to obey the order
"to inspan," the Fingoes were sent to bring in their oxen, and two
of the most refractory drivers being dismissed on the spot, from the
Government service, the rest inspanned at once, and by the afternoon we
entered Graham's Town.
Here we were detained three days, when we set out on our return with
a six pounder gun-carriage and limber, and a large train of waggons
laden with biscuit, rice, coffee, salt, tobacco, and all sorts of
supplies for the troops on the Frontier. Another of the English drivers
proving refractory and grossly insolent, was hand-cuffed with a rheim,
and marched a prisoner between a couple of Fingoes, passing the next
three nights in the cells at the military posts on the road, a piece
of martial law which had a most salutary effect on the rest of these
independent gentlemen.
On our last day's march, just as evening was drawing in, we came upon
the fresh spoor of a body of Kaffirs, not ten minutes old, the print
of the bare feet being quite sharp in the fine dust. Its direction
was across the track towards a patch of bush commanding the road. The
waggons closed quickly up, the men examined their locks, flank patrols
of Fingoes were thrown out in advance, and all were on the _qui vive_;
but the enemy, who delight only in surprises, did not show, and the
camp at Reit Fontein was reached without adventure. Once more patrols
were our occupation by day, and _forelaying parties_, or ambuscades, by
night; marauding rebels were constantly fallen in with, and killed, and
cattle and horses recaptured.
General Somerset, with a detachment of the 74th and Cape Corps which
had accompanied him into the district of Albany, was at this time
actively engaged in following up the enemy in the direction of Riebeck,
Hell-Poort, and the Zuurberg hills, and on the 30th of August attacked
a considerable body of them on New-year River, where they had taken up
a strong position in a very difficult and rugged kloof, dislodging and
dispersing them with great loss, besides recapturing 160 head of stolen
cattle and some horses.
Two days after this affair the 2nd Queen's regiment, just arrived in
the country, under Lieut.-Col. Burns, had a sharp brush with Botman's
and Seyolo's people in the Fish River bush, with several casualties on
both sides.
The Kaffirs in our neighbourhood having become, during the General's
absence in Albany, unusually bold and troublesome, stealing cattle,
murdering and destroying on every side, Lieut.-Col. Fordyce, 74th
Highlanders, then commanding the field force in the General's absence,
determined to check their daring conduct by attacking them at once with
his whole available force in their expected position on the Western
Kroome range. We marched from our camp a little before sunset on the
evening of September 7th, so as to reach the top of the hill under
which we were encamped, just at dark, and thereby prevent our movement
being observed by the enemy's scouts. After marching about seven miles
in the dark across a level plain, myriads of fire-flies flitting along
the ground, we halted at the ruins of a farm, on the Klu-Klu River,
belonging to a Mr. Gilbert, whose narrow and extraordinary escape a few
months before from the hands of the Kaffirs deserves mention. He was
riding with two others from Graham's Town to Fort Hare, when they were
waylaid; his companions escaped, but his own horse being shot he crept
into the bush, successfully evading the search of the Kaffirs, who
passed and re-passed his place of concealment, and at last sat down to
smoke within a few yards of his hiding-place, their dogs all the while
snuffing about. When at length they moved away, he took off his boots
to prevent the snapping of rotten sticks betraying him, and listening
at every painful step, worked his way through the thorny bush, and with
his feet dreadfully lacerated eventually reached Fort Hare, where he
had been given up as dead.
The ruined house was reconnoitred, and we were told to lie down and
take what rest we could till midnight, to be ready to turn out at a
moment's notice. The horses were picketed to the broken fence of a
grass-grown pleasure-garden, and the men lay down by companies in the
farm-yard, with their arms piled in front of each rank. As fires were
forbidden, we groped about in the dark among the fallen ruins, and made
the best resting-places we could on the heaps of broken slates and
brick-ends covering the floors of the blackened chambers, to which the
starry sky served as roof. At midnight we were joined by Lieut.-Col.
Sutton and a party of Cape Corps and mounted Levies from Fort Beaufort,
making up our force to 550 infantry and 103 mounted men.
At two in the morning we marched out of the melancholy desolate place
across the open for about seven miles, toward the position supposed
to be occupied by the enemy, and reached it just at daybreak, when we
discovered that the Kaffirs had abandoned it, and that the large fires
reported in this direction had only been burning grass. After a short
halt, while this reconnaissance was being made, and during which we
felt the cold most intensely, the whole column was counter-marched, and
proceeded in an easterly direction along the foot of the mountain range
for about three hours, when a halt was made for breakfast at Blakeways,
a deserted farm, beautifully situated in a warm sheltered glen,
finely wooded, through which the Wolf River wound its way. Numbers of
boschbok, disturbed by our approach, were seen scudding across the
open flat. While at breakfast an alarm was given that a large body of
Kaffirs was descending the hill in our direction; but they proved to
be a part of the Fort Beaufort Fingoe Levy taking a short cut to join
us. The long dry grass among which we were halted caught fire, and
burned so rapidly as to threaten to surround the column, roaring and
crackling on every side; and we had to decamp in a hurry to avoid being
blown up or shot by the fire reaching the men's ammunition or muskets.
Here it was ascertained that the greater part of the enemy were in the
Waterkloof, Blinkwater, and Fuller's Hoek, and therefore, as it was out
of the question to attempt openly attacking those strongholds with our
inadequate force, Lieut.-Col. Fordyce determined on gaining the top
of the Kroome Heights at this boundary of the range, and, bivouacking
there till dark, make a descent by night, on whichever point might
prove advisable.
At once, therefore, we began to ascend the steep face of the mountain,
the heat of the sun most intense, not a breath of air stirring, and
after two hours' stiff climbing, reached the edge of a forest spreading
up the higher ranges. Its shade was most refreshing. From this point
we were obliged to proceed in single file, as the steep and difficult
path became so narrow; leading along a sharp crest like the ridge of
a roof, on each side of which was a wooded precipice, the base of
which was lost to sight in the deep ravines beneath. On reaching the
summit of the mountain a fine view lay spread before us, the tops of
the forest trees below looking like small bushes. Through an opening
in the mountain tops we caught a peep of the distant sunny plain, with
the white houses of Fort Beaufort and the winding Kat River. Our own
position was a lofty table-land, clothed with grass and surrounded by
bush, the edges of the forest running up from the valleys below. On
one side was the Waterkloof, on the other the head of the Fuller's
Hoek, from which we were separated by a broad belt of forest stretching
right across the mountain-top. A single path led through it, difficult
and narrow; and its entrance was guarded by a number of Kaffirs, who
appeared to be waiting our advance. But this was not our intention, for
at mid-day we were halted in a little hollow, through which ran a small
stream; and here our march was to be suspended till dark.
The guards were mounted on two commanding ridges, the sentries posted,
and the men lay down to rest, or lighted fires and prepared to cook
their rations, to which they had added the flesh of two Kaffir oxen
just captured; the cavalry horses were knee-haltered and turned out to
graze close round,--and all was repose.
We had with us, through a misunderstanding, our Band-master, Hartung,
who had left Fort Beaufort with Lieut.-Col. Sutton's party under the
impression that it was proceeding to the camp at Reit Fontein, which
he was anxious to visit. On finding how different its destination,
he repeatedly expressed his annoyance, and his apprehension of an
engagement. We had not long been here when a party of officers who
had gone up with their glasses to the top of one of the ridges, came
quickly down and ordered the men to get under arms at once, as the
Kaffirs were approaching in hundreds, running full speed from every
quarter. Instantly all was activity; the men sprang up from their rest,
horses were driven in, accoutrements hurried on, the untasted contents
of soup-kettles emptied on the grass, and pack-horses loaded with
incredible dispatch.
In the meantime, being Officer-on-duty, I doubled out with the advance
guard, speedily extending, in skirmishing order, along the ridge,
above which the enemy were advancing, and with whom the next moment
we were exchanging shots at very short range. They were almost hidden
by the long grass in which they crouched to fire, and their numbers
being overwhelming, the reply we made to their fire was but a temporary
check, so that we were soon being gradually forced back, when Captain
Duff came rapidly up with a company of the 74th, and reinforced our
line of skirmishers; the whole fixed bayonets, charged the enemy's line
with the Highland shout, and drove them back into the bush.
The column, which had got under arms with the greatest celerity during
this skirmish, now came up, and the Colonel formed the whole infantry
in extended order, with the right on the head of the Wolf's-back Pass,
and the left "thrown back," the 74th being placed on either flank,
with the irregular infantry in the centre; Lieut.-Col. Sutton, with
the cavalry, remaining for the present in the rear as a support. The
enemy, who had again advanced on the open plain during this movement,
now came on in hundreds, running and yelling out their war-cry till
within range, when an uninterrupted fire rattled along the lines on
both sides, though, as we were well covered behind the ridge, we had no
casualties beyond Colonel Fordyce's charger being shot under him.
An immensely big Kaffir was noticed rushing down the opposite ridge,
which was not more than 800 yards distant, and running at full speed
across our line of fire; unmindful of a shower of balls that fell
around him, and at his very feet, he kept straight on towards our right
as though he bore a charmed life, shouting, and encouraging the others
to follow, as he headed them in an attempt to gain the Pass, and turn
our right flank by moving along the edge of the forest. But in this
they were foiled by Colonel Fordyce, who immediately ordered the line
"to take ground to the right," while the mounted force, galloping to
the front, gave them a volley from their carbines that told among them
severely. For half an hour we maintained a sharp skirmish with only a
loss of three killed and as many wounded, when the enemy retired on the
forest, leaving us in undisputed possession of the ground. As so much
ammunition had been expended it was useless now to wait for night and
make our intended descent; the cavalry, therefore, was dispatched to
the head of another pass, to hold it till our arrival. Macomo himself,
at the same moment, conspicuously mounted on a white horse, led about
300 mounted Kaffirs to secure the same point, in which object, however,
they were defeated. As soon as we began descending the Pass, the enemy
again rushed in from all points, lining the forest through which it led.
The road being exceedingly steep, narrow and rugged, the cavalry in
front marched down at a foot's pace, the infantry following, and the
Fingoe Levies bringing up the rear. The enemy concealed in the thick
bush opened fire upon us the moment we entered the pass, wounding one
of our men. We returned their fire whenever the smoke showed us where
they lay, and thus continued our descent, with a desultory fire on both
sides, till about half way down, when they showed in still greater
force, filling the bush on both sides of us. The Fingoes in the rear
now evinced their fears so strongly as to encourage a party of Kaffirs,
armed with assegais, to rush in among them. This completed their panic,
and firing right and left, at random, they hurried headlong down the
narrow path _en masse_ upon our rear with such force as to knock down
and trample on many of our men, while by crushing through the ranks
they hindered the others from loading. Emboldened by this, the main
body rushed from their cover, hurled a discharge of their lighter
throwing assegais, and then (with the heavier kind, used for stabbing),
threw themselves upon us. Our steady fellows had little to depend on
but their bayonets, to the use of which they had fortunately long been
regularly trained, and now used most effectually. The underwood swarmed
with Kaffirs, they were perched in the trees, firing upon us from
above, and rushed from the bush below in hundreds, yelling in the most
diabolical and ferocious manner, hissing through their white teeth;
their bloody faces, brawny limbs, and enormous size, giving them a most
formidable appearance.
The narrow road was crowded with a mass of troops, Levies and Kaffirs,
the ringing yells of the latter heard above the din of the firing.
Some wrestling with the men for their firelocks, were blown almost in
pieces, and many were felled and brained by the butt-ends of clubbed
muskets. Our gallant fellows fought most bravely; one man, with an
assegai deeply buried between his shoulders, singled out its owner, and
shot him through the head with the weapon nearly protruding through
his chest; a grenadier killed four Kaffirs with his own hand. The huge
fellow already mentioned appeared suddenly among us, and seizing a
soldier in his powerful grasp, hurled him to the ground; but the man
jumping to his feet in a moment, buried his bayonet in the fellow's
back, and he fell dead on his face. Three Kaffirs had caught one of
our men by the blanket folded on his back, and were dragging him into
the bush, when the straps slipping over his shoulders, released him,
and he threw himself, unarmed, on the nearest, and wrestled with him
for his assegai, both rolling over and over, scuffling on the ground,
the well-greased body of the Kaffir giving him the advantage over
the dressed and belted soldier, whose death wound was, however, amply
avenged. The ground was soon thickly strewn with the black corpses of
the enemy; a score lay in the path, and here and there the lifeless
form of a dead or dying Highlander, eight of whom fell, while as many
more were wounded. Fighting our way through hundreds of the infuriated
savages, we effected the descent of the pass; by the time we had
reached the foot the enemy's fire had almost ceased.
On gaining the open ground, we extended and moved leisurely along the
plain, the Kaffirs contenting themselves with remaining at the edge
of the bush on the rise of the hill, a dense red mass of some two
thousand men; a few scattered parties dodging from tree to tree, fired
long shots, which fell far short, and to which we made no return, our
ammunition being nearly expended.
Our total casualties, were fifteen men and four horses killed, and
fourteen men wounded. Many of the men's arms and accoutrements were
shattered and perforated by balls. Lieutenant Corrigan was so stunned
by a bullet which passed through his forage cap, as to be partially
unconscious for some time. Hartung was reported missing, and great
fears were expressed for his safety; yet, as he had not been seen to
fall, it was hoped he might have taken to the bush, and escaped. The
unfortunate chance which brought him out against his will, and his
evident foreboding the whole morning, added to the general feeling of
anxiety about him.
We marched slowly across the plain towards the deserted farm we had
left in the morning; for now that the excitement was over, we felt the
full fatigue of such uninterrupted exertion, and dragged our limbs
heavily along; the groans of the wounded and the shadows of evening
increasing the gloom of the dreary scene. It had been quite dark for
some time when we reached the welcome ruin. A mounted express was
despatched for more ammunition, and a waggon to convey the wounded to
the camp. Having disposed of them as comfortably as it was possible in
the mean time, and lighted fires, we threw ourselves once more on the
slates and brickbats, after having been on foot for seventeen hours.
During the night the waggon arrived; and at three o'clock we were
roused from our rough but reluctantly-quitted beds, and shivering with
the cold, which at this hour is most intense, moved off towards Reit
Fontein, more asleep than awake, and in about two hours and a half
arrived in camp, nearly done up.
Further inquiries among the men about poor Hartung confirmed our worst
fears. He had been seen by several endeavouring to lead his horse,
and was repeatedly advised to leave it, but refused, as it had been a
borrowed one. A bugler stated, that soon afterwards he had seen him
wounded by an assegai and then seized by half a dozen Kaffirs, who
dragged him into the bush. His fate was not difficult to conjecture,
and proved afterwards to have been more horribly cruel than our worst
suspicions had suggested. It was elicited from some Kaffir women,
taken prisoners shortly afterwards by Lieut.-Col. Eyre's column, that
the unfortunate man had been brutally tortured for three days, cut
with assegais, and daily deprived of a joint from each toe and finger,
till death terminated his dreadful sufferings. Their accounts were
but too truly confirmed by subsequent evidence taken before the Civil
Commissioner of Beaufort, from another prisoner, Numkani, a Kaffir girl
of N'pai, who detailed the tragic particulars as follows:
"I was living with the sister of my father, in the Kat River country
before the war. When the war broke out, I went with her to Waterkloof;
she had three sons, who went there to fight; they were all alive when
I came away from Waterkloof, about three moons since. Before that, I
heard of a white man having been taken prisoner on the mountains of
the Kroome; I heard that he was killed by the Hottentots. I also heard
that he was taken to Macomo, and that Macomo sent for one of his sons,
Kona, a _headman_ named Queque, and some Hottentots. Macomo ordered
the man to be killed. He was taken away and stripped, and Queque took
his clothes. I saw him wear them after; the coat was dark, I cannot
say what colour. I heard say that the men cut his arms and legs. He
was two days in that state; the flesh was not quite cut off, but was
left hanging to his body. They then cut * * * and gave him his own
flesh to eat. They killed him at last by shooting him. I did not see
this, but I heard the men often talk about it. I heard that the white
man spoke, and said they must not kill him; and that he was begging
for his life. I heard that the women danced round him, and were merry;
they were Kaffir women. They also beat him with keeries. I heard the
men and women singing a war-song when dancing round the white man. He
had his hands tied behind him by one of Macomo's sons, named Kona,
and the Hottentots; he was lying in the sun all day, and placed in
a hut for safety at night. I was out gathering gum the day that the
Hottentots first cut the man with a knife; he was tied with a long
rheim, and the end was fastened to a tree. This I heard: when they cut
his arms and legs, he bled much; he was lying on his side; he screamed
when he was cut. They took off a joint of every finger every day while
he was alive, and after the flesh of his arms and legs had been cut. I
left Waterkloof a long time since, and came to Fort Beaufort. I left
Waterkloof because I was starving."
The mark [symbol] of Numkani.
J. STRINGFELLOW, _Res. Mag._
Such were the fetish-like cruelties perpetrated by these savages; nor
can one wonder at their barbarity when they are hardly less brutal
towards those of their own race and kindred. When a chief or great man
of a tribe is seized with sickness, the 'witch-doctor,' with forms
and incantations, dooms some poor wretch to death, on pretence of his
having bewitched the ailing man; his flocks and herds are forfeited to
the chief, and his children left beggars and fatherless.
One instance may suffice to give an idea of their savage ferocity, and
spare the repetition of outrages on the poor settlers, or those unhappy
enough to fall into their hands.
"The same Kona, some years before, having fallen sick, a 'witch doctor'
was, according to custom, consulted, to ascertain the individual
under whose evil influence he was suffering; and, as usual, a man
of property was selected, and condemned to forfeit his life for his
alleged crime. To prevent his being told of his fate by his friends,
a party of men left Macomo's kraal early in the morning to secure the
recovery of the sick young chief by murdering one of his father's
subjects. The day selected for the sacrifice appeared to have been a
sort of gala day with the unconscious victim; he was in his kraal,
had just slaughtered one of his cattle, and was merrily contemplating
the convivialities of the day before him, over which he was about to
preside. The arrival of a party of men from the 'great place' gave him
no other concern than as to what part of the animal he should offer
them as his guests. In a moment, however, the ruthless party seized
him in his kraal; when he found himself secured with a rheim around
his neck, he calmly said, 'It is my misfortune to be caught unarmed,
or it should not be thus.' He was then ordered to produce the matter
with which he had bewitched the son of his chief; he replied, 'I have
no bewitching matter; but destroy me quickly if my chief has consented
to my death.' His executioners said they must torture him until he
produced it, to which he answered, 'Save yourselves the trouble, for
torture as you will I cannot produce what I have not.' He was then
held down on the ground, and several men proceeded to pierce his body
all over with long Kaffir needles. The miserable victim bore this with
extraordinary resolution; his tormentors tiring, and complaining of
the pain it gave their hands, and of the needles or skewers bending.
During this time a fire had been kindled, in which large flat stones
were placed to heat; the man was then directed to rise, they pointed
out to him the fire, telling him it was for his further torture, unless
he produced the bewitching matter. He answered, 'I told you the truth
when I said, save yourselves the trouble; as for the hot stones, I can
bear them, for I am innocent; I would pray to be strangled at once,
but that you would say I fear your torture.' Here his wife, who had
also been seized, was stripped perfectly naked, and cruelly beaten
and illtreated before his eyes. The victim was then led to the fire,
where he was thrown on his back, stretched out with his arms and legs
tied to strong pegs driven into the ground, and the stones, now red
hot, were taken out of the fire and placed on his naked body--on the
groin, stomach, and chest, supported by others on each side of him,
also heated and pressed against his body. It is impossible to describe
the awful effect of this barbarous process, the stones slipping off the
scorched and broiling flesh, and being only kept in their places by the
sticks of the fiendish executioners. Through all this the heroic fellow
still remained perfectly sensible, and when asked if he wished to be
released to discover his hidden charm said, 'Release me.' They did
so, fully expecting they had vanquished his resolution, when, to the
astonishment of all, he stood up a ghastly spectacle, broiled alive!
his smoking flesh hanging in pieces from his body! and composedly asked
his tormentors, 'What do you wish me to do now?' They repeated their
demand, but he resolutely asserted his innocence, and begged them to
put him out of his misery; and as they were now getting tired of their
labour, they made a running noose on the rheim around his neck, jerked
him to the ground, and savagely dragged him about on the sharp stones;
then, placing their feet on the back of his neck, they drew the noose
tight, and strangled him. His mangled corpse was taken into his own
hut, which was set on fire and burnt to ashes. His sufferings commenced
at ten A.M., and ended only at sunset!" These are the people whom an
Exeter Hall spouter compares to "the ancient Scots fighting for their
homes and hearths."
Two days after our return to camp, information arrived of a severe and
disastrous affair in the Fish River bush the day following the Kroome
action. It had occurred between a patrol, under Colonel Mackinnon, and
the allied Rebels and Kaffirs in that district, one of their strongest
and most dangerous retreats. A party of our forces, having got
separated in the thick bush, was cut off, one officer (Captain Oldham)
and thirty-one rank and file being killed, and twenty-three wounded in
the 2nd Queen's, with one officer killed and one wounded in the Levies,
besides several men. The enemy, who by the way used fierce dogs to pull
down the troops, had suffered considerably, and the following day were
attacked and routed by Lieut.-Col. Eyre with heavy loss, after a sharp
engagement, in which two of his officers, Lieutenant Walters and Ensign
Thursby, were wounded.
On the 12th, General Somerset, who had broken up and dispersed the
enemy in the Albany district, and recovered a number of cattle,
returned to his head-quarter camp with our two companies and the Cape
Corps, which had been with him, bringing also a detachment of the 12th
regiment, just arrived from the Mauritius.
The effects of the hardships, privations, and constant exposure to
the extremes of heat and cold, began to tell among our ranks; many of
the men went into hospital with diarrhoea, dysentery, and pulmonary
complaints; and among others Major Fordyce was obliged to return home
on sick leave, his health completely broken up.
During this period constant skirmishes were taking place with the enemy
throughout the frontier districts, and almost daily depredations and
murders were perpetrated by them on the colonists; the disaffection
among the Hottentots increasing rather than otherwise, and the rest of
the farmers leaving the frontier with what little remained to them of
their herds and property. This state of things, coupled with the report
of a wounded rebel prisoner, who stated that the Kaffirs were preparing
to attack Graham's Town as soon as they had got together 5,000 men,
which force was nearly completed, induced the inhabitants of that place
to organize themselves in armed bodies for their own protection; places
of rendezvous in different parts of the town being selected from their
convenience and capability of defence. The churches and chapels were
appointed as refuges for the women and children in case of attack,
and the signals were to be the firing of a gun and the ringing of the
bells. For the further security of the district, Lieut.-Col. Eyre was
stationed in the neighbourhood with a strong force.
To return to our own position in the camp at Reit Fontein, we were
during this time resting inactive for want of reinforcements to
enable us to attack the enemy in his strongholds. Our routine of camp
life, relieved only by sketching and shooting round the immediate
neighbourhood, was almost unbroken by any incident, though once or
twice we had a little variety in the shape of expected night attacks,
ending however in smoke, the guards "turning out" as well as orderly
officers at the sound of firing about midnight, which proved on each
occasion to have been at the expense of a stray horse or two, doubtless
impressing the Kaffirs with a great idea of our vigilance. Some of the
mistakes that occasionally occurred were rather amusing, at least to
those not personally concerned. A horse of Patton's having broke loose
one night, and wandered outside the camp to enjoy a little fresh grass
to himself, incautiously advanced straight toward a sentry, by whom he
was twice challenged, and not answering was shot through the chest;
when the Corporal-of-the-guard visited his post the sentry reported
it, and pointed out the direction of the disabled Kaffir, with a quiet
remark that "he'd been graning awfu." On another occasion an old
soldier, rather deaf, was posted, on a pitch dark and windy night, at
an angle of the camp, on the other face of which was an artilleryman.
The two had quietly paced their respective beats for some time, wrapped
up as usual in their blankets, when old Tait, for some unaccountable
reason or other, took it into his head to challenge his fellow sentry,
and not hearing any answer concluded at once that he must be a Kaffir,
brought him down by a shot in the arm, and running in, held his bayonet
steadily at the poor fellow's throat, declaring "he'd rin him through
if he offered to budge." Spite of the man's representations, which were
all lost on Tait's deaf ear, he kept him down till the Corporal came
round, to the 'relief' of both.
A reinforcement of 120 Fingoe Levies arrived from Algoa Bay, and the
remainder of the 12th regiment was said to be _en route_ for Beaufort
to join our division, which was to move on that place. The rumour was
confirmed sooner than we had anticipated, for on the following day "the
route" arrived, and was hailed with delight by all, after having been
more than two months in this place.
The tents were struck; the dry withered kraals that had encircled our
fires were piled over them and set in a blaze as farewell bonfires, and
we marched for Fort Beaufort, the cavalry and artillery making a detour
by the Klu-Klu to reconnoitre the Kroome. After a hot and dusty march,
as we were entering Beaufort our band, which had been stationed here
since we last passed through, came out to meet us; its strains sounded
strangely full and rich to our ears after the constant skirling of the
Pipes, and the effect on the men was most inspiriting as it played us
through the long street and square to the plain on the other side of
the town, where we encamped with the 12th regiment on the banks of the
Kat River.
The Cape Mounted Rifles had their head-quarters here; and after making
the best toilet our weather-stained uniform would admit of, we rode
over to their mess-house, and once more sat down to the refinement
of a civilized table and decent cookery. After our rough camp life,
the change from tin cans and clasp knives, on the bare ground, to
such luxuries as table cloth, chairs, plate, and glass, was quite
perplexing; savoury dishes in place of leathery beef, and sparkling
champagne instead of draughts of muddy stagnant water; the merry party,
and warm and cordial greetings of old friends whom we somehow felt
surprised to find alive, were enjoyed with a zest and heartiness which
compensated for many a hard day in the field.
All things, however, have their drawbacks, and we found that the plain
was peculiarly fitted for "light drill," of which we had a full benefit
during our short _rest_. Two days after our arrival, a horrible murder
was committed on the Provost-Sergeant, by a man of the European Levy.
He had followed his victim out of the camp at night, and murdered him
in cold blood a few hundred yards off, then quietly re-entering the
lines at another point, joined his comrades at their fire. At the
court-martial, held two days afterwards, the wretch was condemned to
death, but his sentence was afterwards commuted to transportation for
life.
Though our patrols were out each day as usual, they now seldom fell in
with any of the enemy, whose withdrawal from their former outposts, and
reported gathering in the Waterkloof, led us to suspect some intended
movement in that quarter. Some Kaffir women captured by the Fingo
Levies one morning, on being examined by the General's interpreter,
admitted their loss on the day of the Kroome action, September 8th, to
have been upwards of 150 killed, besides many wounded.
The weather how became daily warmer; we paraded every morning at six
o'clock; and after a couple of hours' light-drill on the plain were
right glad to remove the sand and perspiration by a bathe in the shady
river. On Sundays divine service was performed at nine o'clock in camp,
the men drawn up in hollow square facing inwards, the "Meenister" in
the centre, with the big drum as a pulpit. Even at that early hour the
heat was often so great that several men fainted during the service.
The surface of the plain danced in a wavy indistinct outline, and the
distorted bushes quivered in the hot air; yet the Fingoes, bare-headed
and without covering, basked in the broiling sun, smoking their large
wooden pipes in evident enjoyment.
Though capital bush-rangers, and fair fighting men when well backed
up by regular troops, these fellows gave us endless trouble from the
difficulty of impressing on them the necessity of some sort of order
and discipline. It was impossible to keep them in camp anywhere within
six or seven miles of a town, and of Beaufort more especially; they
were always in the Fingo quarters of the town, and out of the way when
required, so that in case of a sudden call for their services, the
Sergeants had to gallop off to the different kraals to hunt them up,
turning them out with great shouting, and blowing of cow-horns.
The Fingo Levies were universally fine athletic well made men, and
those of the Algoa Bay Levy especially so; more perfect models it is
impossible to imagine. This superiority arises doubtless from their
simple diet, and free and hardy life in the open air, though it is
said that they, as well as the Kaffirs, always destroy blind, deaf and
dumb, sickly, or deformed children at their birth, or as soon as their
imperfection becomes manifest. Whether this be true or not, certain it
is that no such are ever seen among them.
In town the young men get themselves up in the most extraordinary
style, with smart earrings in their ears, and school-boys' caps stuck
on the top of their heads, with red and blue velvet tassels; and you
daily see them at the stores, laying out their pay in second-hand
European clothes,--blue coats with brass buttons, tight fitting
surtouts, and fashionable pantaloons; an accompanying party of friends
assisting and advising with the greatest gravity. Some showed a strong
military turn, stitching broad red stripes down their trowsers, or
with an old Cape Corps jacket, swaggering about with a rusty sword
and spurs. But in the field, this attire is laid aside, and the same
fellows pass you on the line of march, at the double, with a "Hi
Charlie,"--their dirty blanket, and raw beef tied on their backs, and
no other clothing than a checked cotton shirt.
[Illustration: FINGO LEVIES.]
FOOTNOTES:
[13] Eupodotis Kori.
[14] Otis afra.
CHAPTER VI.
ATTACK ON THE WATERKLOOF--SUBSEQUENT OPERATIONS.
From the daily reports brought in from all sides, it appeared that the
enemy was concentrating a large force, and that greater or less bodies
frequently made their way through secret bush-paths by night from the
Amatolas to the much discussed Waterkloof, so that it was with more
pleasure than surprise that we received, on the 11th October, a sudden
order for a general movement of the troops against that stronghold.
Next morning, a little before daylight, General Somerset left the camp
with the Artillery and Cape Corps for the junction of the Mancazana and
Kat Rivers, where he was to be joined by Lieut.-Col. Michell's Brigade
(the 2nd, 6th, and 91st regiments, with two field pieces), marching
from Fort Hare the same morning.
The next day they were to ascend the Blinkwater hills from the Kat
River valley, and encamp on the heights north of the Waterkloof, to be
in readiness to co-operate with the 2nd Brigade of the 1st Division by
dawn of the 14th.
At ten o'clock on the night of the same day the General's party
started, the 2nd Brigade under Lieut.-Col. Fordyce, consisting of the
reserve battalion, 12th regiment, the 74th Highlanders, a squadron of
Mounted Irregulars, and two companies of Fingoes, in all about 1150
men, marched through the silent moonlit streets of Beaufort, and
crossing the bridge took the Klu-Klu road, halting after about fourteen
miles march, at the Yellow-wood River; resting three hours, we again
marched for the Goba River, five miles further. The heat of the sun was
intense, and the barrels of our rifles and pistols became so hot that
we could not bear to place the hand on them.
On reaching the foot of the Kroome, at the point of ascent, the men
were ordered to rest till night, and all lay down under the grateful
shade of the bushes. Our guide, it appeared, knew nothing of the pass
by which he proposed taking us up the mountain; some said it was
totally impracticable at any time for horses, and at night almost so
for infantry; it was therefore determined to take another path more to
the westward.
In the evening, a cold rain succeeded the hot day, and we lay shivering
on the ground a confused mass of steaming blankets. A little before
midnight we were roused for the march. Comfortless as our rest had
been, it was with the greatest reluctance we crept out of our plaids
and blankets into the bitterly cold foggy air and drizzling rain, to
stumble drowsily along our night-march.
The Kroome rose black and frowning before us, its summit hidden in
heavy clouds, which added to its apparent height. The ascent soon
became so steep that the mounted men had to alight, and we were in
momentary fear that the pack-horses would come to grief. No one who
has not felt his entire subsistence for many days to be dependant on
a slight accident--the turning of a pack-saddle, the falling of the
horse, or the bâtman's awkwardness at some critical moment, can imagine
the painful interest with which the ascent or descent of a difficult
pass is regarded.
The first ridge gained, we moved along a grassy level for some
distance, the greater part of us more than half asleep, and staggering
along like drunken men; every now and then, as some sudden inequality
endangered our balance, awaking with a start, again relapsing into a
state of somnambulism, which was as painful as it was irresistible;
the grassy path assumed the appearance of a carpet, of which I could
distinctly trace the pattern; rocks and bushes became beds, chairs, and
chests of drawers, which stood round distinct as reality; until with a
stumble and a start, consciousness returned, the illusions vanished,
and I still found myself plodding along with the same wearying tramp,
tramp. This strange sensation was experienced by most of us, at
different times, during our long and harassing forced marches by night;
and for my own part, so unpleasant did I find it, that in trying to
shake it off, I pinched my arms black and blue.
As day began to dawn, and we reached the higher ranges, the scene
around and below was grandly desolate; the steep slopes we had ascended
looked bare and black in the indistinct light; and the dark summits on
every side appeared, and were lost again in the floating clouds.
The column, clambering up the steep laborious path, looked like flies
swarming on the heights. The horses panted for breath; and the men were
quite "pumped," having been marching two whole nights.
The summit gained, we halted on a burnt and blackened table-land, where
we were facetiously ordered to breakfast, having nothing with us but
black biscuit, which we sat down on the dewy ground to gnaw at.
A thick heavy cloud or fog hung around; so dense as to hide everything
at a few yards distance, saturating our canvas blouses, and striking
so chilly that we were heartily glad to move on again, after waiting
two hours in vain for a glimpse of the General's column; it had,
however, one advantage; enabling us to take up our position unseen, and
totally unsuspected by the enemy, whose attention was occupied with the
movements of the other Brigade.
At half-past seven we moved forward along the grassy undulating ridge,
with flank-patrols thrown out right and left, and had not proceeded a
quarter of a mile when the boom of a gun indicated the direction of
the co-operating division; and almost immediately afterwards, through
an opening in the driving clouds, we caught sight of the red coats and
gleaming arms moving along the heights on the opposite side of the
sunny valley, towards its head. The howitzers belched out their white
smoke, and we saw a couple of shells burst over a Kaffir village; the
cavalry moved rapidly forward, the battalion following, and again all
was hidden in the mist. The rattle of small arms, and the occasional
roar of the big guns told they were actively engaged; and, continuing
for some time, created no little impatience and excitement amongst us.
Meanwhile, we had advanced about seven miles; and halting, piled arms
near the spot where we had been attacked on the 8th of September,
and about three-quarters of a mile from the belt of bush in front,
separating us from the other division. Several companies of the 12th
and 74th were extended, lying down to watch the forest, in case any of
the enemy should attempt to escape from it: and detached parties of
Fingoes were sent into the bush on the right, where they set fire to a
number of huts, and with their usual activity, kept up an uninterrupted
firing for a quarter of an hour, at some fifteen or twenty Kaffirs. The
horses were off-saddled, and turned out to graze, not having had any
food since the previous night.
After we had lain in this way for rather more than an hour, a party
of the 91st, and Cape Corps was seen issuing from the forest, and
an officer galloped forward with an order from the General for our
brigade to join him. The picquets were instantly called in, and while
the horses were being saddled, we crowded to learn news of the other
column. They had had some severe fighting, and had driven a large
body of the enemy from their position on the forest heights, into the
Blinkwater and Waterkloof, though not without loss. Captain Addison,
of the 2nd Queen's, had been severely wounded, Lieutenant Norris of
the 6th mortally, two or three men killed or wounded, and Lieut.-Col.
Burn's charger shot under him.
On entering the belt of wood, passable only by a narrow rocky path,
we had to march in file. The timber was very fine, with luxuriant
evergreens beneath, immense creepers and baboon-ropes hanging in
festoons, or pendant to the ground, from branches fifty or sixty feet
high.
The rear of our column had nearly gained the other side of the belt,
from which the head had already emerged, when a sudden volley from a
dark thicket above us made the forest ring, while the balls whistled
past our heads and struck the trees on the opposite side the path,
sending splinters flying on every side. We continued advancing,
firing at every puff of smoke, the only indication of the whereabouts
of our hidden enemy, until we gained the open, when we were saluted
by a succession of volleys from an angle of the forest on our left,
especially directed at each officer as he came up, though fortunately,
without doing further injury than grazing a few of the men's
accoutrements.
We were moving along the open to join the General, when an alarm was
given that the 12th regiment, in rear, with the pack horses, was cut
off in the pass. Our companies, just formed into open column, were
ordered to the right about, and sent back again at "the double" to
extend along the edge of the wood; when a very pretty skirmish took
place; our men sheltered by the rocky ground, and the enemy dodging
behind the trees and firing from breastworks of loose stones, thrown
up in front of their village, along the edge of the forest. Under
cover of our fire the 12th cleared the pass, bearing a wounded man
with them; half a dozen of our mounted men were wounded, and several
riderless horses galloped wildly past. The artillery, posted on a rising
ground, about a quarter of a mile in our rear, opened on the bush,
wherever the Kaffirs showed themselves in parties, and sent round shot
and "spherical case" right in amongst them, whirring and _hurtling_
over our heads with an astounding, and, at first, rather startling
noise, splintering the trees and killing all within their deadly range.
In the hottest of the fire, poor Ricketts, of the 91st, was carried
past us, dangerously wounded in the chest. After a sharp skirmish, of
about a quarter of an hour, the enemy's fire was completely silenced,
and the wood apparently totally deserted;--the "recall" sounded, the
skirmishers closed and retired, the regiments were re-formed, and the
heavy masses of infantry, moving from all sides across the green flat,
joined the General's party.
Having formed open column, we moved off across an extensive undulating
table-land of the brightest green, extending for miles on every side,
and bounded only by the distant peaks of the surrounding mountains.
Far in front rode the reconnoitering party of irregular horse; then
came the advance-guard of infantry, followed by the prisoners, carrying
their pots, mats, and calabashes on their heads; then the sad train
of wounded officers and men, borne on stretchers--Addison, Norris, and
Ricketts, and a dozen more brave fellows; the long, steadily waving
column--the 2nd Queen's; the stained and ragged 6th; the newly-arrived
12th, with their bright coats; the 74th Highlanders, in their
service-like bush-dress; the gallant 91st; the lumbering artillery; the
Cape Mounted Rifles; and a whole troop of pack-horses and mules.
Our retiring was the signal for the enemy to reappear, which they
instantly did, following us out on the open plain, taking up every
point of cover, and firing long shots, but we took no notice of them
until they were drawn out far enough, when the cavalry charged them
under Captain Carey, riding over and cutting them down right and left,
wheeling round, and charging them again and again till they were
totally dispersed.
Thoroughly exhausted, and scarcely able to drag ourselves over the last
few yards, we halted at five in the evening, at Mundell's, a deserted
farm in a hollow of the plain, after being under arms for nearly twenty
hours, and without food.
One of our men, foot-sore and done up, who had fallen to the rear and
got into the ranks of another regiment, was reported missing, but
shortly afterwards limping into camp, abused his comrades right and
left, for having thought him dead.
A mounted body of the enemy made their appearance a little before
sunset, on a low hill, about a mile off, and went through a series of
regular cavalry movements for our edification; unluckily they were
out of range, and our horses and oxen, which had worked fasting since
daylight, were just turned out to graze, otherwise they would have been
treated to a round shot.
The wounded men had been placed in waggons to be sent to Post Retief,
a small fort, about fifteen miles distant, but by the time they were
ready to start it was getting too late, and as parties of the enemy's
horsemen were hovering round, it was deferred till the morrow. Poor
Norris, who had been rapidly sinking during the evening, died a little
before "tattoo." His loss was deeply felt by his regiment and all who
knew him.
Our bivouac was in a little hollow, and close to a detached piece of
bush, where we found the bones of an elephant shot there a few years
before. The camp fires looked singularly beautiful by night, scattered
up and down the hill, and glowing among the trees of the little belt of
wood in which our regiment had taken up its quarters.
All next day we remained in this spot, awaiting a fresh supply of
ammunition from Post Retief. Numbers of mounted Kaffirs again made
their appearance, and went through similar evolutions, but at a very
respectful distance. In the afternoon we buried poor Norris, at the
edge of the wood. It was an affecting scene. The corpse lay by the
side of the open grave, sewn up in a blanket, through which oozed the
blood from his death wound; around stood uncovered a reverent crowd
of officers and men; grey-headed Colonels, and a host of younger
bronzed and weather-beaten faces, in stained and tattered uniform; the
soldier-like looking old General, with his snow-white hair and drooping
gr
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