Memoirs of the Duchesse De Dino (Afterwards Duchesse de Talleyrand et de Sagan), 1841-1850
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Title: Memoirs of the Duchesse De Dino (Afterwards Duchesse de Talleyrand et de Sagan), 1841-1850
Author: duchesse de Dorothée Dino
Editor: Fürstin Marie Dorothea Elisabeth de Castellane Radziwill
Release date: January 25, 2015 [eBook #48076]
Most recently updated: October 24, 2024
Language: English
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MEMOIRS OF THE
DUCHESSE DE DINO
[Illustration: THE MARQUISE DE CASTELLANE]
MEMOIRS OF THE
DUCHESSE DE DINO
(_Afterwards Duchesse de Talleyrand et de Sagan_)
1841-1850
_Edited, with Notes and Biographical Index, by_
THE PRINCESSE RADZIWILL
(_NÉE CASTELLANE_)
WITH FRONTISPIECE
THIRD SERIES
NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
LONDON: WILLIAM HEINEMANN
1910
_Printed in England_
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
PAGE
Rochecotte, January 1, 1841--M. Molé--European Politics--The
Fortifications--Politics in Paris--Forged Letters--French
Politics--Correspondence--M. Lacordaire--Lady Holland--A Court
Ball--Sir Francis Baring--Mlle. de Lespinasse--Future
Plans--Lady Palmerston--Hypnotism--Diplomatic Changes--M.
Royer-Collard--Talleyrand's Letters--Baptism of the
Prince--Mannheim--Frankfort--Berlin--The Manœuvres--Dresden
and Prague--Vienna--Vienna Society--Letters from
Paris--Hohlstein--Günthersdorf--News from Paris--Country
Life--A Royal
Visit--Frankfort--Mayence--Disturbances--Diplomatic
Changes--Spanish Affairs--Departure for
Nice--Menetou-Salon--Journey to Nice--Life at Nice--The College
of Jesuits--Mgr. De Quélen 1
CHAPTER II
Nice, January 1, 1842--Life at Nice--A Reception--A
Quadrille--Spanish Affairs--News from Paris--The Carnival--M.
de Salvandy--Nice during Lent--An Entertainment--An
Excursion--Departure from Nice--Journey Home--Politics in
Paris--The Academy--Family News--A Railway Accident--Society
News--M. Dupanloup--Son-in-law's Illness--Departure from
Aubijou--Randan--The Elections--Death of Duc d'Orléans--The
Funeral--Court Mourning--Politics in Paris--Queen
Victoria--Guizot in England--Return to Rochecotte--At
Rochecotte 106
CHAPTER III
Rochecotte, February 21, 1843--Return to Paris--Politics in
Paris--The Duchesse d'Orléans--Fashion--Cardinal Consalvi--Case
of Hydrophobia--A Bazaar--Relations with Prussia--Memories of
Russia--The Rhine--Brunswick--Berlin--A Royal Gardener--Life
in Berlin--Visit to Muskau--The Beauties of Muskau--Return
to Berlin--Departure from Berlin--Polnisch-Wartenberg--
Balzac--Vienna 171
CHAPTER IV
Vienna, January 4, 1844--Society at Berlin--Three Years 224
CHAPTER V
Sagan, December 12, 1847--The State of Italy--France and Russia 228
CHAPTER VI
Sagan, January 4, 1848--Thoughts of Death--King of
Denmark--Weimar--Revolution--Disturbances--Agitation at
Berlin--Disquietude--Affairs at Vienna--General
Uneasiness--Affairs in Berlin--Teplitz--Anxiety at
Sagan--Provincial Disorder--The Austrian Cabinet--Prussian
Affairs 232
CHAPTER VII
Sagan, January 11, 1849--The Political Situation--The State of
Germany--Negotiations--Position of Prussia--Eisenach--The
Orléans Family--Feeling at Berlin--Madame de Krüdener--The Duc
de Noailles--The Orléans Dynasty--Proposed Coalition 265
CHAPTER VIII
Sagan, January 3, 1850--Crisis in Berlin--Austrian
Affairs--French Politics--Austrian Politics--Rumours of
War--Affairs at Paris--M. de Persigny--The Danish
Question--Congress of Princes--Attack upon the
King--Augsburg--Münich--Ischl--Vienna--Berlin--Prussian
Politics--Menace of War--Military Preparations--Negotiations 289
APPENDIX I: Mademoiselle Rachel 337
APPENDIX II 342
BIOGRAPHICAL INDEX 347
MEMOIRS OF THE
DUCHESSE DE DINO
CHAPTER I
1841
_Rochecotte, January 1, 1841._--Yesterday passed by uneventfully. In
the morning I had mass said in my chapel for the late M. de Quélen,
and shed heartfelt tears during the service. In the evening my son
Alexander, my son-in-law and Pauline gave us some music. They sang
vaudevilles and mimicked characters with a vivacity which delighted
me, as I am always afraid that they may be bored here, though I admit
that their frame of mind was in complete contrast to my own. On the
stroke of midnight punch was served; some tears fell into my glass
when I thought of those with whom I had so often spent this
anniversary.
_Rochecotte, January 2, 1841._--M. de Salvandy writes to me as follows
concerning the reception of M. Molé at the Academy: "M. Molé spoke to
a magnificent audience. He was seated between M. de Royer Collard and
M. de Chateaubriand; on this occasion the latter broke his usual
custom of avoiding public appearances. It was a special honour, either
to M. Molé or to the memory of the late archbishop. The highest
society from the Faubourg Saint Germain were there, in fact all the
special friends of M. Molé and everybody who can be called anybody
nowadays. M. Molé was continually applauded, and his cleverness, his
taste and courageous speaking well deserved this reward. He gave a
fair and respectful account of this pure and noble character and
spoke of M. de Quélen without concessions or reticence or
consideration for his own position. His ambition seems to have burnt
its boats, with such enthusiasm did he speak of old time manners and
society and so warmly did he emphasise the ideas and principles of
good order. He only touched upon present times to utter a eulogy upon
the King, and you know that present times are not agreeable to him. I
was especially struck by the vigorous approval of the audience; it was
a public rehabilitation of the persecuted Prelate and the canonisation
of his memory by a layman before a public which was not entirely
sympathetic or legitimist; for there was a lively manifestation of
approval at certain passages in Dupin's reply, opposing the
Restoration and the Englishman. Dupin's answer was quite
characteristic, and I need say no more of it. M. Guizot and M. Thiers
seem to have foreseen the success of M. Molé, for they did not appear
and their absence was widely commented upon. In short, this session
has greatly raised M. Molé in the opinion and esteem of right-minded
people, but it has been in particular a great day for the memory of
the Archbishop, for his family and his friends, and for those who felt
his blessing as he was at the point of death. For this reason I
hasten, Madame, to give you an account of it, as by this means I can
realise its meaning more exactly and more deeply than if I had merely
listened.
"M. Guizot has informed me of the nature of the despatches received
from St. Petersburg, from Vienna and from London, which are in all
respects excellent. There is a desire to bring France back to the
concert of Europe, a readiness to make advances and to seek means and
opportunity. Peace is restored and I should be inclined to say, more
than peace."
I am delighted at M. Molé's success which I foretold to him when he
read me his speech at Paris in September; and am delighted not only on
his account, but also because he has done something to restore the
reputation of this holy Archbishop, who was so misjudged during his
lifetime.
_Rochecotte, January 3, 1841._--Yesterday I received many letters from
Paris which repeat practically what M. de Salvandy wrote concerning M.
Molé's speech at the Academy. M. Dupin seems to have been quite
unspeakable, and in short, entirely himself; M. Royer Collard grumbled
throughout his speech and said, "This speech is sheer carnage." In
fact the dead lay in heaps beneath Dupin's destroying charge.
Noticeable were the thunders of applause when he inveighed against the
revelation of state secrets, a direct thrust at M. Molé; but a most
dramatic point, I am told, was Dupin's gesture in recalling the fact
that a Molé, as an alderman of Troyes, had helped Charles VII. to
drive out the English. His gesture and pose called forth repeated
bursts of applause. Fortunately the diplomatic body were not present.
It is a strange sight to see Dupin inveighing against the coalition of
which he was a member.
M. Molé should be fully satisfied with his triumph, which has been
complete, striking, brilliant and unusual. On this question M. Royer
Collard writes as follows:--"No doubt more than one correspondent has
told you of M. Molé's triumph, for such was the nature of his success,
before a numerous and brilliant audience. I was glad to hear the
speech which you and I have known for some time. If it is not an
artistic production, it is the work of a clever man who has known
better times than these and who has retained good traditions. The
defects were not obvious; his courage appeared so natural that it was
unnoticed; the beauties of it, which were by no means small, were
understood and fully appreciated. M. de Quélen has shared the honour
of the day, in truth it is he who has really triumphed, to such an
extent did the audience share this solemn work of rehabilitation. I
saw the most hard-hearted shedding tears. As M. Affre did not think of
his predecessor, no one thought of him. M. de Quélen has carried the
archbishopric of Paris to his tomb; there is not and will never be
another archbishop; this striking and mournful glory is his."
I am extremely delighted at this posthumous triumph, as I have every
reason to be, for I honoured, supported, cared for and perhaps even
consoled the subject of it during his lifetime.
M. Molé's speech contains some admirable lines referring to the
Cardinal of Périgord.
Before sessions of the Academy are held, speeches are by rule examined
by a committee of members who act as censors and decide whether any
passages should be struck out. M. Dupin did not conscientiously carry
out this arrangement and his speech in public was not that which left
the hands of the committee. It is expected that next Thursday when
there is a special meeting of the Academy, explanations of the fact
will be demanded. Mignet, who was present at the public session, is
said to have been in a very bad temper and the newspapers of M. Thiers
are preparing to fulminate against Dupin.
It is said that Mgr. Affre has proposed to change his cathedral
precentors without calling a meeting of the Chapter; that the Chapter
met to discuss the question; and that Mgr. Affre, when he heard of it,
made a great uproar and forbade any meeting unless authorised by
himself. New Year's Day then arrived. The Chapter have been accustomed
to meet to send congratulations to the Archbishop: his prohibition was
positive; they therefore did not meet, and have not congratulated the
Archbishop. The result will be some new storm, for Mgr. Affre is a
stormy character. The Sacré Cœur had much difficulty in securing
permission to say a mass for Mgr. de Quélen at the end of the year;
however, permission was granted, and there was a suffocating crowd.
_Rochecotte, January 5, 1841._--For twenty hours snow has been falling
steadily. We are absolutely buried under this thick shroud. One might
be living in the north with all its horrible cold, and it is
impossible to go out. All communications will be cut off, though the
storm should last only a few hours. What a winter it is!
_Rochecotte, January 7, 1841._--Yesterday I had a letter from Madame
de Lieven, in which the main points are as follows: "Things in general
seem to me to be going better, though security is not absolutely
certain. Have I written to you since the news from St. Petersburg
arrived? Do not believe the exaggerations of certain newspapers on the
point, but believe what is true, that the tone of the last
communications is quite proper; that Russia is sincerely anxious to
see France return to the concert of Europe, and is hoping that the
present Ministry will remain in office. This demonstration, which
experts consider to be more friendly than any that has been made at
St. Petersburg, has caused much pleasure here and some anxiety to the
English. There is no further development at present. At London
attempts are being made to find a point of junction with France which
is everywhere desired. Can you think of one? Jerusalem. Jerusalem
delivered from the yoke of the infidels! Jerusalem, a Christian town,
open to all Christian worship; a free town guaranteed as such by
Christianity! What do you think of this? I should much like to see it.
Is it likely that so simple an idea and so easy to perform could be
rejected, for if ever the idea is carried out, it could be to-day.
Lord Melbourne will probably laugh at it and Lord Palmerston too.
"The opening of Parliament has caused much discussion. It is said that
Peel and the Radicals will easily overthrow the Ministry, but I see no
reason for it at this moment. Time will show.
"The Academy meeting caused a twenty-four hours' sensation. M. Molé
enjoyed a great triumph. I was unable to hear his speech and it reads
to me a trifle forced; such is also the impression of many people, and
it has even been called somewhat insignificant. About M. Dupin's
speech I have nothing to say. From the point of propriety it speaks
for itself, but it amused me. My taste, however, is not particularly
good.
"I hope you will make no mistake about the conclusion of the Egyptian
question. Whatever happens, Mehemet Ali will preserve the pashalik as
hereditary in his family; but what a conflict of opinions among the
sailors, the Ambassador and the Minister of Foreign Affairs!
"I am told, my dear Duchesse, that the King of Prussia is a little
strange in his conduct, that the fact is remarked among his people,
that his popularity is rapidly declining, and that the old King is
more regretted every day."
_Rochecotte, January 12, 1841._--M. de Salvandy writes as follows: "I
think that the Powers are seriously looking for an opportunity and an
excuse to bring us back to the concert of Europe. The declarations of
Prince Metternich; the Russian despatch with its unusual expressions
concerning the wisdom of the King and his services to Europe, the
desire to come to an understanding with his Government; and the
sentiments, too, of Prussia, which are more French and less Russian
than ever, are providing food for reflection in England. Lord
Palmerston is finding his course more difficult than he expected. The
Duke of Wellington and Sir Robert Peel will propose amendments; it is
said that these amendments will be in favour of France and will pass,
and the Tories seem certain on the point. I cannot believe it. It is
impossible to think that the real successes of Palmerston throughout
the Asiatic continent from St. Jean d'Acre as far as China, should
mark the date and the reason of his fall. In any case it is certain
that England, both as a government and as a nation, is concerned with
the question of our isolation and of our liberty of action.
"Here the question of fortifications takes precedence of everything
else. It has been simplified by M. Thiers' resolution to make no
proposal without the approval of the Government. He abandons or
modifies his amendments according to the desires of the Cabinet and so
the struggle will not be in that direction. Victory or failure will be
shared by MM. Thiers and Guizot. However, by a strange change of
opinion M. Guizot seems to be threatened at the outset of this
proposed plan. MM. de Lamartine, Passy and Dufaure, forty votes on the
Left, together with Tracy and Garnier-Pagès, in short, fifty votes at
least will be against the proposal. People are also asking whether
Marshal Soult is not against the idea. His position seems somewhat
obscure. People wonder whether the objections which he offered to the
detached forts in 1833, to the compromise and the continuous circuit
walls proposed in 1840, are not more prominent in his mind than any
other interest; whether he does not expect to advance his views by
rejecting half the law which might easily end in the overthrow of the
whole, and also of the oratorical party in the Cabinet, bound as they
are to support their project in its entirety. People are also
wondering whether this last result is not the object which the
parliamentary strategy of the Marshal has in view. The Prince Royal,
whom I saw yesterday, seems uneasy on the point. But what then can be
the idea in the background? Can it be a combination of Passy and
Dufaure, with Passy as the Minister of Foreign Affairs? This would be
to restore the Ministry of May 2, which would not act upon the first
occasion and will be no more possible now that it is dead. A
combination of Soult and Molé is very unlikely; and finally, will M.
Molé come forth from his ruins? All this is very obscure. M. Molé is
very touchy. There are too many people who would regard adherence as
an honourable confession of error. In any case it is certain that M.
Guizot's prospects are impaired and that even at the Tuileries the
chances of his overthrow are regarded as more probable than they would
formerly have been. It is noticed that he makes no mention of London.
Can he have reached the point when he begins to doubt of success,
though he never doubted it before, and to consider the possibilities
of a retreat?
"Rambuteau yesterday held a house-warming in his new rooms in the
Hotel de Ville. They are magnificent and are characterised by
splendour, luxury and good taste: the paintings, the ornaments and the
furniture are admirable; it is pleasant to see an object worthy of
praise and since we are now under the electoral _régime_ I am glad to
see that it can produce something at least that is earmarked by good
taste and a certain grandeur. It is curious to see the town of Paris
treat its Prefect in this way. Let us hope that this will pave the way
for the kings.
"M. Pasquier has been greatly disappointed that he has not been
elected to the Academy in place of M. Pastoret. He had great hopes,
but the candidature of M. de Sainte Aulaire was too well supported. He
is keeping himself for the place held by the Bishop of Hermopolis.[1]
Is it not remarkable, Madame, that at his age a man should think of
inheriting anything, and should still have ambition, holding the rank
he does?"
[1] The Duc Pasquier was, in fact, elected member of the French
Academy on February 17, 1842, in place of Mgr. Frayssinous,
Bishop of Hermopolis (1765-1841), high master of the University,
who was very ill in January 1841.
_Rochecotte, January 18, 1841._--Madame de Lieven writes from Paris as
follows the day before yesterday: "Madame de Nesselrode is full of the
great men of France, and has certainly come to Paris chiefly to see
them. M. Eynard of Geneva has them on show; he invites Madame de
Nesselrode to dinner with each of them alternately. I do not think he
has missed one so far, except Garnier-Pagès.
"The Queen of England's speech is awaited here with some curiosity.
People are wondering whether she will say anything suitable in view of
the situation here. There is no inclination in Paris to diverge from
the line of conduct that has been decided upon; an armed peace, quiet
expectation and isolation, threatening no one, neither disturbed nor
disturbing. Our neighbours, however, are anxious, and would like to
see this state of suspense at an end. Lord Palmerston's obstinacy
drives them to despair, for it is but too true that he is the real
governor of Europe. Some means of forming a connection for France must
somehow be found, and an intermediary has not yet been discovered. It
is certain that the Pasha's position will be made hereditary.
"France has made peace with Buenos Aires, and Rosas, the tyrant of
this republic, has been appointed ambassador here and will arrive in
the spring. England will arrange the difference between Spain and
Portugal.
"Conversation is concerned with nothing but fortifications; it is not
quite clear whether the Chamber is in favour of them. The King on the
one hand and M. Thiers on the other, are taking infinite trouble over
the question. The Ministry will support the proposals but will not
die of grief if they fail to pass.
"M. de Barante has been ordered to remain at St. Petersburg; some
inclination to coquetry has been obvious in that quarter, but time
alone will show whether any definite result will follow. M. de
Lamartine had an audience of the King which lasted two hours and a
half and is said to have been much impressed. He talks a great deal
about it. The question of diplomatic changes will not arise until the
matter of the fortifications has been settled."
I have the following news from Madame Mollien: "There is every
readiness to support the law concerning the fortifications in the
Tuileries, but considerable reluctance in the Chamber. The château is
greatly obliged to M. Thiers for joining the general opinion in his
report; he is anxious to reassure the Chamber as to his position. It
is said that he is greatly wearied by his partisans of the Left and
has had a lively scene with Odilon Barrot which reached the point of
insults and in which he termed the journalists of the party
"ruffians." The fact is that if this law does not pass, the thirty
millions already expended, the works that have been begun, the private
property that has been bought up, destroyed and ruined and the
devastation of the Bois de Boulogne, would place him in a terrible
position; and so he is as gentle as a lamb and sends his wife to the
Tuileries. The Ministry would be content with what would cause him
embarrassment; the château, on the other hand, is making common cause
with him; thus the position is very complex. The Duc d'Orléans is in a
bad temper: the recall of Marshal Valée which was issued in the course
of two hours without any previous notice to himself, has greatly
wounded his feelings; he does not like the idea of the Marshal's
return because he is one of his personal enemies and he fears for the
safety of Africa in the hands of Bugeaud. However, he is retiring
somewhat more into the background in adherence to the wishes of the
King, who is growing anxious about his successor, as Louis XIV. was
about the Grand Dauphin. All our princes live like the Infantas of
Spain, in loneliness and obscurity. The Pavilion Marsan is nothing
more than a wearisome convent; on the ground floor there is very
little vivacity and equally little on the first floor. The King
retains his imperial confidence in his star. He thinks less of M.
Guizot than he did some time ago, and does not so much dread a change
of Ministry."
_Rochecotte, January 17, 1841._--The Duc de Noailles who came here
yesterday, read this morning in the drawing-room half of the article
which he has written upon Jansenism, which is to be inserted in the
work he is preparing upon Madame de Maintenon.[2] This part of the
book is written cleverly and clearly; at the same time I can criticise
it for an excessive partiality to the Jansenists and a failure to
observe a proper moderation of tone.
[2] The publication which appeared in 1848 under the title _The
History of Madame de Maintenon and of the Principal Events of the
Reign of Louis XIV._
_Rochecotte, February 1, 1841._--Yesterday I received this bulletin
from M. de Salvandy: "Our Ministry is the feeblest, the most
diminished and the most elusive that ever was seen. I do not know,
Madame, whether I have told you what I have often told them, that
there is only one danger for them; not the danger of supporting views
which might be defeated, but of having no opinion at all, or even
worse, of having two opinions. They have run straight upon the rocks
with sublime carelessness, in consequence of Guizot's speeches and
with utter foolishness in consequence of Marshal Soult's speech, while
the general attitude and language drive them along most miserably. The
truth is that as a matter of principle they brought forward their
proposed law concerning the fortifications in defiance of the
Marshal's opinion and opposed their military expert because they
thought that public opinion was on their side. Since that time the
position assumed by M. Thiers as a supporter of the bill has kept them
awake and though they agreed with him in committee they were
attempting to secure some means of checking him when he was with us in
the Chamber. Schneider's amendment has been proposed with their
support in opposition to M. Thiers and in agreement with the Marshal
against M. Guizot, with the support of another combination which is
more or less public property. Thus M. Guizot has suddenly revised his
opinion and after asking us to pass the law in his great speech with a
significant phrase, he went round to the members three days ago and
solemnly told us that he was opposed to it. The great success of M.
Dufaure has again produced a change in these views, as people fear
that the real strength of the opposition may lie in that quarter.
Yesterday evening Thiers demanded that they should explain themselves.
They asked for a night to think over the matter, but reflection will
tell them nothing that can make such conduct worthy or politic. No
question was ever so badly managed. They have succeeded in securing
the protectorate of M. Thiers, in exasperating him by their obvious
treachery and in separating MM. Passy and Dufaure, while also wounding
the feelings of the Conservative party, the majority of which is ready
to reject the great bulwark of M. Thiers. In any case, they are
defeated, for they have conspired against all in turn. What will be
the result of all this? Great discredit and deep divisions, if nothing
else. I am going to the Chamber where I will try and write a
postscript to describe the tone of the Cabinet and the vote of the
Assembly, but I expect storms, and as I am acting as President in
place of M. Sauzet, I must keep my hand upon the bag of Aeolus.
"_Postscript from the Chamber._--The Marshal has made a speech of
coarse and obvious duplicity which is setting the Chamber on fire. I
have only time to send you my kind regards with this letter."
_Rochecotte, February 2, 1841._--Yesterday's letters say nothing; the
newspapers announce that Schneider's amendment has been rejected and
that the forts and the continuous circuit wall will probably be
adopted, notwithstanding the most inconceivable speech from Marshal
Soult which was counterbalanced by the really clever speech of M.
Guizot.
_Rochecotte, February 4, 1841._--It was very cold yesterday but quite
clear and I went for a walk with my son-in-law in the woods where
there is always shelter in spite of the absence of leaves. To-day it
is snowing as if we were in Siberia. Last night the thermometer fell
more than ten degrees. Winter has indeed begun again.
The newspapers tell us that the fortifications have been voted; even
those who voted for them did not want them and it is difficult to know
who has been duped in the whole business. One of the jests current in
Paris is no longer to refer to Marshal Soult by his long-standing
title of the Illustrious Sword, but to speak of him as the Illustrious
Scabbard. This is not bad and tickled my fancy.
_Rochecotte, February 5, 1841._--The following is the chief passage in
a letter from the Comtesse Mollien: "So we are to have fortifications.
In this very complicated question every one has been taken in and it
is difficult to see who has gained an advantage apart from M. Thiers,
whose delight, however, is largely qualified by the success of M.
Guizot, for it is generally admitted that the Chamber of Deputies was
carried away by his last and most admirable speech. It now remains to
deal with the Chamber of Peers, which might show some obstinacy,
according to rumour. This Chamber is quite in favour of outer forts at
a greater or less distance in connection with one another, etc., but
there will be some trouble in passing the proposal for a continuous
circuit wall through that Chamber. You have doubtless seen from the
articles in the _Journal des Débats_ that this newspaper supported the
law. The truth is very different; the real supporter is Auguste de
Veaux, the son of Bertin de Veaux, who alone supported this view with
such warmth that he outraged the policy of the newspaper against his
father and uncle, who were no less warm supporters than himself of the
contrary opinion, but eventually yielded to his youth and to his
position as deputy. At the château there is general delight, but I
think that too little trouble is taken to conceal the fact that the
circuit wall is only the passport for the rest. M. Bertin de Veaux was
saying the day before yesterday that this circuit wall was the tomb of
Parisian civilisation until it became the tomb of the monarchy. It has
certainly already become the tomb of general conversation; people are
wholly absorbed by it. Men and women, young and old, talk of nothing
else and it is most wearisome and ridiculous.
"There has been a monster ball at the Tuileries. There will be no
others: no select ball, but one concert and nothing else; only on the
Monday festival there will be a small masked ball confined to the
family and the households; the young people alone will be masked and
ladies who are not dancing will wear white to distinguish them from
the rest."
_Rochecotte, February 7, 1841._--The Chamber of Peers seems far from
favourably impressed by the proposal for fortifications and wishes to
oppose it. I doubt if it has the energy to do so. Mdlle. de Cossé is
to marry the Duc de Rivière. She will be very rich and wishes to be a
duchess; he has very little money. Old Madame de la Briche is quite in
her dotage. This does not prevent her from following her social
inclinations and saying and doing extraordinary things.
_Rochecotte, February 9, 1841._--My son-in-law hears that the
disagreements about the fortifications and the manner in which the
whole business has been conducted is likely to place every one in a
false position; the Council, the Chamber and every one are at cross
purposes; the Chamber of Peers is excited and exasperated and wishes
to propose an amendment, in which direction it is urged by Marshal
Soult, Villemain and Teste, but is held in check by Guizot and
Duchâtel.
Amid all these disturbances the vote for the Secret Service Fund will
pass without difficulty. Then there is no other serious question
during this session and M. Thiers is said not to be in a position to
give battle on the latter point.
The situation in general, according to the statement of M. Guizot is
good, for the Left, he adds, is reduced to impotence for a long time.
He seems to be more and more pleased with the state of foreign policy,
with the advances which are made to us, and of which he boasts a great
deal. He goes so far as to say that the union with the four Powers has
been broken, though this statement seems to me a trifle premature.
_Rochecotte, February 11, 1841._--I find the following in a letter
from the Duc de Noailles: "I have been studying the question of the
fortifications, since this ridiculous law is thrust upon us. I cannot
stomach it, and will not let it pass without raising my voice against
it. The Duc d'Orléans shows great energy in the matter: he goes every
day to the Chamber of Peers, even when we have nothing before us but
petitions; he makes notes and observations with our grand referendary,
M. Decazes, who hangs about the Chamber with a pocket-book, upon all
the peers who are for or against and adds up the votes beforehand.
Yesterday he sent some one during the session to M. de Vérac who
rarely appears in the Chamber, to learn his opinion. He said that if
there was any want of water to make mortar for the buildings, he would
rather give his blood than that they should be interrupted. He told M.
de Mornay who spoke on the opposition side of the Chamber of Deputies,
that he had spoken as a marquis and not as a patriot. In short, he is
canvassing all the peers, sending them invitations, asking them to
dinner and using every possible means. It is true that almost all the
Chamber will vote for the law, to such an extent have they been
crushed by the revolutions which have harrowed our country. As you are
deeply attached to the Duc d'Orléans, you will be sorry to hear of the
unseemly and revolutionary remarks which this law has evoked from him
and which are in circulation everywhere. M. Molé is working his
hardest to oppose the proposal, but he will probably not be bold
enough to speak against it openly; M. Pasquier is no less furious and
will probably be equally silent.
"We have had a charming evening's entertainment at the house of Madame
Récamier,[3] on behalf of the sufferers from the conflagration at
Lyons. I was in charge of the arrangements and the platform at the
back of the room was most suitable for the music and the recitals. The
professional musicians performed admirably; the little Rachel came
late because the committee of the _Théâtre Français_ had forced her,
with their usual inconsiderateness, to play Mithridate the same day.
She arrived at eleven o'clock with a grace, an eagerness to help and a
simplicity which charmed every one. She gave the _Dream of Athalie_
and the scene with Joas with excellent effect; it will be even better
on the stage, as stage effects are lost in a drawing-room. Her
conversation and manner caused equal satisfaction. The result was
excellent--five thousand francs. Two hundred tickets were sent out at
twenty francs a ticket, but nearly every one paid forty, fifty or even
a hundred francs a ticket. It is a very pleasant way of collecting
money. M. de Chateaubriand, who usually goes to bed at nine, stayed
until midnight. M. de Lamartine was also there and two abbés to
represent the convent; the Abbé Genoude and the Abbé Deguerry."
[3] Madame Récamier, at the outset of the Restoration and after
her husband's ruin, settled at the Abbaye au Bois. All the famous
men of the age struggled to secure admission to her salon, which
apart from politics was a sort of nineteenth-century Hotel de
Rambouillet, with Madame Récamier as Julie.
The Duc is devoting himself to art no less than to politics.
_Rochecotte, February 12, 1841._--Several Legitimist newspapers have
published so-called letters written during the period of exile by King
Louis-Philippe to the Marquis d'Entraigues, and a long letter written
to the late M. de Talleyrand by the King, while M. de Talleyrand was
ambassador at London. The Cabinet considers that the newspapers should
be seized, the editors arrested and a charge of forgery brought
against them before the courts. I sent for the newspaper containing
the letter which was supposed to have been written to M. de
Talleyrand. I am convinced that it is an absolute forgery. M.
Delessert, prefect of police, has asked my son, M. de Valençay, to
write to me and inquire whether I knew if any papers had been stolen
from M. de Talleyrand at London; whether it was possible for any one
to have abstracted them at Paris during his illness and at the time of
his death; and finally, whether I knew a woman who was concerned in
the whole business[4] who says that she had lived at Valençay and even
in the château; in short, he wishes to know my recollections and my
opinion of the whole story. I talked over the matter with my
son-in-law, and we concluded that we would be bound to reply. I
therefore gave M. de Valençay a reply, telling him to read my letter
to M. Delessert but not to leave the letter in his hands. In it I said
that I had never known this woman or heard of her, which is exactly
true; that all M. de Talleyrand's important papers had been deposited
by him in foreign countries in sure hands and in places which would
render theft quite impossible, and that no papers could have been
found at his house in Paris, if any attempt had been made to abstract
them, of which I had no recollection; that, in short, all my
recollections and impressions contributed to convince me that the
letter in question was a forgery. As a matter of fact, it is a very
long letter upon European affairs which was never written by the King;
moreover, neither the King nor Madame Adélaide in their letters to M.
de Talleyrand ever expressed the thoughts, the opinions, or the
projects expounded in this letter. It appears that the Abbé Genoude
and M. de la Rochejaquelein, in the course of a journey to England,
bought the King's so-called letters from this woman and came to
publish them in France under the deception of animosity and party
spirit. However, the whole business is very unpleasant for the King
and the trial very wearisome to follow; these men assert that they
have originals in the King's handwriting, which are no doubt
forgeries, though proving them to be so is a hateful business.
[4] This woman, Eselina Vanayl de Yongh, under the name of Ida de
Saint-Elme, was a famous adventuress. The supposed letters of
Louis-Philippe had been entirely invented by her.
The Legitimist newspapers also publish some fragments of a diary, or
rather some memoirs of Madame de Feuchères; the forgery here is
obvious to myself, who am well aware of the relations which existed
between her and the Royal Family, and are totally misrepresented by
these fragments. Her family and the executors of her will have
published an absolute denial of the existence of these supposed
memoirs. However, the Legitimist newspapers proceed as before to
publish instalments of this absurdity, and there are idiots or
ill-disposed persons who still persist in believing them authentic.
_Rochecotte, February 15, 1841._--I have been asked a question about
Madame de Salvandy, who corresponds with the Austrian Minister to the
United States; her maiden name was Mlle. Ferey, and she was a niece of
the Oberkampf family; she is thus connected with the Jouy oilcloth.[5]
She is not a distinguished person, though not vulgar; she is not
pretty and not exactly ugly; she is not pleasant, but not badly
brought up; not clever, but no fool; and after this I think it must be
admitted that she is not a nonentity. I should add that she has been a
good daughter, a good wife and a good mother; that she bores her
husband and wearies her children by her continual efforts to be
correct; and in conclusion that she is a thorough-going Protestant,
always scattering little French Bibles about without her husband's
knowledge, who is a good Catholic.
[5] An allusion to the painted cloth manufacture founded in the
eighteenth century by Oberkampf at Jouy-en-Josas, in the
department of Seine-et-Oise, not far from Versailles.
A summary of my correspondence is as follows. I found it here when I
returned from Tours, where I had gone for a few hours to be present at
a charity lottery.
Madame de Lieven writes: "Enthusiasm is rising once more at the
Tuileries on behalf of the fortifications at Paris, and is said to
have reached Dumouriez. The fortifications are desired and will be
secured, for it is thought that the Chamber of Peers will show a
majority in their favour, notwithstanding the Legitimist conspiracy of
Molé and Pasquier. England will be obliged to make advances to France,
as Parliament is urging it in that direction and society also.
Notwithstanding the outward success of the English Cabinet, the
Ministry is growing weak and it is even said that it will fall. Lord
Palmerston alone retains full confidence in his fortune. The whole of
Europe shows great confidence in M. Guizot, especially Prince
Metternich, who asks of him only one thing--namely, that he will
continue in office. I think he is as safe as any one can be in France.
I think the proposal regarding Jerusalem will not pass unnoticed."
The Duchesse de Montmorency writes: "I told you a few days ago that
Mgr. Affre had forbidden the Chapter to meet, and that the Chapter had
strictly carried out his orders by offering him no New Year's
congratulations, as a meeting would have been necessary for that
purpose. The result has caused a disturbance among the clergy which is
now at its height. Even at the Tuileries they are beginning to repent
of the unfortunate choice that was made in M. Affre, as he had a
violent quarrel with M. Guillon, Bishop of Morocco, the Queen's first
almoner, and a great favourite at the château. M. Guillon, though he
had been entirely hostile to Mgr. de Quélen, went to the King to
complain of Mgr. Affre. Unfortunately he cannot be removed. He has
turned M. de Courtier, the very popular priest of the foreign
missions, out of his parish, and he has only his masses to live upon.
The canons of Notre Dame no longer say mass at the high altar, as to
do so would be a means of meeting, and similarly at matins and the
other offices. Things are almost as if the cathedral was under an
interdict. Mgr. Affre is so hot-tempered that when his secretary, a
young and innocent abbé to whom he had dictated some extraordinary
letters, ventured to remark upon the fact, he was immediately
dismissed without notice. How Christian, pastoral and evangelical such
conduct is!
"M. Demidoff has sent back the secretary, the butler and the servants
that he had here; it is not yet known whether he has reached Russia,
or whether the Emperor Nicholas will allow his wife to come with him;
the possibility is doubted.
"The affairs of the Duc Decazes are in fearful disorder and his
servants are leaving him; he is also said to be very ill."
M. Raullin writes: "Yesterday at Notre Dame we had a sermon from the
Rev. Father Lacordaire, who wishes to restore or to establish in
France the Order of Dominicans with their beautiful white cloaks. The
whole of Paris was there and the church was crowded. The sermon
provoked much criticism, both favourable and adverse. It was a
harangue in the style of Peter the Hermit preaching the Crusade to the
people, except that in this case the Crusade was directed against no
one, but was to support Catholicism. It was Rome and France marching
together since the time of Clovis to the conquest of true liberty and
of civilisation. In all this there was a mixture of papacy and of
nationalism, of spiritual monarchy and of universal liberty which was
thundered forth in a style that might shake the pillars and the very
foundations of every Gallic church. I hope that similar attempts will
not often be made, but for once in a way such outbursts do no harm. I
was especially struck by the vast concourse of people and the close
attention with which they followed all the words of this Dominican
revivalist. As to the result of his attempt, I am afraid that
imagination and a sense of the picturesque are all that will be
stimulated. I do not like attempts to start new movements by something
extraordinary."
The Duchesse d'Albuféra writes: "Madame de Rambuteau, in order to
avoid the terrible crowd which invades the rooms of the Hotel de
Ville, declared that she would only ask those of her new acquaintances
who were introduced to her on Tuesday mornings. Such was the reply
that she sent to a note from Madame d'Istrie, who asked permission to
introduce her sister, Madame de La Ferronnays. The idea of
introduction as an excuse from Madame de Rambuteau to Madame de La
Ferronnays has been considered ridiculous; it has become a jest and a
byword and many people in high society decline to visit the Hotel de
Ville.
"Madame de Flahaut is entirely absorbed in the task of attracting the
Faubourg Saint-Germain to her house; the Duc d'Orléans is distinctly
angry in consequence; but as princes no longer go to salons, Madame de
Flahaut says that she will not continue to sacrifice her tastes to the
whims of the Duc d'Orléans. Emilie, her daughter, who keeps house for
her, is influencing her in this direction. On Thursdays there is
dancing at Madame de Flahaut's house: some one was saying before the
Marquise de Caraman that these entertainments were balls for young
people, to which the marquise replied, 'And for young women too, for I
have been invited,' upon which remark it was remembered that her
baptismal certificate does not seem to agree with this claim."
Finally, M. de Valençay writes that Madame de Sainte Elme, the author
of the _Contemporary Memoirs_, is deeply implicated in the affair of
the pretended letters from the King. The prefect of police is still
busily occupied in the task of getting to the bottom of this intrigue.
M. de Valençay went to hear Father Lacordaire and says that he looks
like a fine Spanish picture. His sermon was very republican and his
mode of expression very different from that hitherto employed in the
pulpit, but he has much talent and vigour.
He adds that M. de Chateaubriand is reading his Memoirs at Madame
Récamier's house; Madame Gay swoons with admiration and Madame de
Boigne makes faces. These two tendencies were especially brought out
by a very striking portrait of the Duc de Bordeaux. The Duchesse de
Gramont Guiche was present and was not remarkably pleased with the
passage in which her name was mentioned, in which M. de Chateaubriand
said: "Madame de Guiche, who has been a great beauty."
There is nothing else in my letters which seems worth quotation, and
even what I have extracted is chiefly trivial.
_Rochecotte, February 23, 1841._--Some time ago I was advised to read
a novel by M. Sainte-Beuve and not to be alarmed by the title of it,
which was "Pleasure." I read half of it yesterday; though it wanders
from the point in a manner more metaphysical than religious, and
though the affectation and ruggedness of the style is obvious, I have
been deeply touched by the book, which displays a profound knowledge
of the human heart, a true sense of good and evil, and generally
speaking, a loftiness of thought which is unusual in modern authors.
My son-in-law hears from Paris that the Chamber of Deputies was much
disturbed by the report of M. Jouffroy concerning the secret service
funds. The Chamber seems to have been living in a profound calm which
has been disturbed by this report. It has revived all quarrels and
severely criticises all past Ministries, while it speaks of the policy
of the present Cabinet in terms which are unacceptable to many of its
supporters. In short, it is an unfortunate incident, which is
important in so far as it strengthens the arms of that important
fraction of the Chamber known as the Dufaure-Passy party.
_Rochecotte, February 24, 1841._--In the _Friend of Religion_, a
little magazine which I take in to lend to my priest, I have found a
long extract from the famous sermon of M. Lacordaire, which recently
caused so much sensation at Paris, and which fortunately seems to have
met with strong disapproval. As a matter of fact what I read is quite
inconceivable, though there are many passages full of vigour and
talent; but these are overwhelmed by strange assertions which reach
the point of the scandalous and the dangerous. As his subject he took
the duty of children to parents and from thence proceeded to an
enthusiastic eulogy of the democracy: he said that Jesus Christ was
above all things a member of the middle classes, and that France is
supported by God because it breathes democracy. The late Mgr. de
Quélen was quite right in his refusal to allow M. Lacordaire to preach
unless he were himself present to keep an eye upon him. He mistrusted
these strange doctrines which had long before been derived from his
connection with M. de Lamennais, and though M. Lacordaire has remained
a Catholic, he is largely affected by this evil teaching, which he
received in his youth.
Prince Pierre d'Arenburg writes to say that on the day of the
collection at Notre Dame Mgr. Affre summoned the ladies who were
collecting to the sacristy, but he did not speak to them or give them
a word of thanks, which they expected, as they were always accustomed
to it from Mgr. de Quélen, who invariably thanked them with perfect
grace; that Mgr. Affre then sent them into the church with a most
abrupt "Now then, start," which was received with murmurs on the part
of the ladies, according to my letter.
M. de Valençay writes to say that he has heard from a reliable source
that overtures from the English Cabinet are still awaited and that it
is believed that they will be forthcoming. He had met Madame de Lieven
who had commissioned him to send me news of the fact and to add that
M. Guizot is on the best of terms with the German courts. It appears
that this week will decide the fate of the English Cabinet, which will
be vigorously attacked.
The law upon the fortifications will not be put to the vote in the
Chamber of Peers for a fortnight. It will be fiercely attacked by M.
Molé, by the Chancellor and by the Legitimists. The court is very
angry with the two first named. What the fate of the law will be is
absolutely unknown as yet.
Madame de Nesselrode has left Paris full of enthusiasm for Parisian
life, for Parisian things and people. I admit her goodness of heart
and her generosity, but I think very little of her judgment.
_Rochecotte, February 26, 1841._--I hear from Paris that a very select
ball was given by Madame Le Hon and that she and Madame de Flahaut are
now trying to refine their salon and to attract the Faubourg
Saint-Germain; that in this respect a kind of reaction is expected;
that every one is anxious to be counted a member of high society; that
those who were formerly sought are now disdained and those are
flattered who were formerly rejected.
I hear from Vienna that the daughter of the Prussian Minister Maltzan,
a pretty young girl of twenty-four, is to marry Lord Beauvale, the
English Ambassador; in age he could easily be her father; he has been
a great rake and is eaten up with gout. However, she has preferred him
to several possibilities, because he is an English peer, ambassador
and brother of the Prime Minister. She has decided to make a brilliant
marriage.
_Rochecotte, February 27, 1841._--Yesterday my daughter had a long
letter from young Lady Holland of whom she had seen a good deal at
Florence. This little lady is now at London. I have asked my
daughter's permission to select the interesting passages from this
letter: "I doubt if any one, whatever trouble he took, could discover
a more painful situation than ours, because I think that no one could
find such a woman as Lady Holland, my mother-in-law. She surpasses
everything that could be imagined in the way of rapacity and
selfishness, and in a novel her character would be thought exaggerated
and impossible. As you know, she became possessor of everything from
my father-in-law, but that is not enough for her. She wishes to pull
down Holland House where she spent forty years of her life and to
build and to sell; in fact, Heaven knows what she does not wish, for
the other day she was anxious to make an arrangement with her son
which would deprive us of our small income which was arranged at our
marriage, so that if the Ministry were to change to-morrow it is quite
possible we should be reduced to live upon the interest from my dowry.
Fortunately she cannot destroy Holland House without my husband's
consent and he says he would rather cut his hand off than consent to
sacrifice the smallest part of it, even of the park. Similarly she
cannot sell the other estate of Ampthill without his consent. He would
willingly give his consent to pay off the large mortgages with which
she has burdened the property, which was immense and free from debt at
the time of her marriage with Lord Holland, if she on her side would
do something. She has so much of which she can unfortunately dispose
that my husband has been advised to ask something in return for his
consent. He only asked her to leave the house as it was during his
father's lifetime, whom he worshipped, and whose memory is most dear
to him. He told her that the library and papers which his father left
behind were a hundred times more precious to him than the real
property and the silver of which she can dispose. Well, she declines
to do anything. She has consulted all her friends, who have pointed
out the truth and asked her to do the right thing. The result is
scenes and quarrels, while we must look on at everything and not offer
a complaint. It is a difficult position and sometimes I feel my blood
boil, but I restrain myself for my husband's sake and follow the
example of his sons and his daughter whose patience towards her is
angelical and who show a delicacy, a tenderness and reserve which she
certainly does not deserve at times. In short, we must hope that a day
will come when we shall be able to live in peace and return to that
dear house which we have not been permitted to approach since our
arrival. At present we must start as soon as we can and return to
Florence by way of Paris.
"Fanny Cowper is not to marry Charles Gore. She cannot yet decide what
she will do, and remains very pretty.[6] The chief beauty of the
moment is Lady Douro. The Duke of Wellington has recovered but commits
such imprudent acts that it is impossible to rely upon him. Lord
Cardigan has been hissed in the theatre, which is very unpleasant for
those who go there. I went to his trial which interested me
greatly.[7] He is a handsome man, pale and interesting, and we
peeresses were all so pleased that he was acquitted; but it was a
somewhat theatrical business and I am afraid that in these days of
reform and discontent it may cause some outcry against the House of
Lords. My husband clearly pronounced the words 'Not guilty, upon my
honour,' but they were delivered best of all by my cousin, Lord Essex.
Towards evening the robes of the peers, the red tapestry and the
presence of the ladies made a striking effect. The ladies chiefly
admired were Lady Douro, Lady Seymour, Lady Mahon and my cousin,
Caroline Essex.
[6] The daughter of Lady Palmerston by her first marriage and a
niece of Lord Melbourne. Lady Fanny was to marry Lord Jocelyn a
few months later.
[7] Young Colonel Cardigan had several quarrels with officers in
his regiment, and after a duel with Captain Harvey Tuckett, whom
he wounded, he was summoned before the House of Lords in its
judicial capacity in 1841; he was acquitted, and his trial was
merely a necessary concession to the law of the land against
duelling.
"Our dear aunt, Miss Fox, of whom we are very fond, since she has been
a real mother to my husband, has given us much anxiety. She has been
very ill, but I hope that she is out of danger; she regrets her
brother whom she loved for himself alone. There is no sense of vanity,
no regret for loss of position, and no ambition in her grief, while
everything that she has seen or heard since his death has shocked and
pained her. We have also been alarmed for my poor cousin, Lady
Melbourne; an illness after a miscarriage was nearly the death of her,
but I now hope and trust that she is out of danger; these, however,
are incidents which hurt and leave their marks. She thought she was
dying and left all that she loved with calmness, submission and
tenderness, forgetting nothing that could conduce to the happiness of
her husband whom she was leaving.
"We spent a week at the beginning of the year at Windsor; it was a
picture of perfect happiness; our dear little Queen, handsome Prince
Albert and the little Princess, a pretty and good-tempered child,
ready to do anything with a smile, a certain sign of good health. The
Queen is said to be with child again. We were dining there four or
five days ago and the Queen seemed to me to be not quite well, though
she danced a good deal two evenings later, but in any case she is so
strong that one cannot judge by appearances."
_Rochecotte, March 1, 1841._--My last month of Rochecotte is now
beginning, much to my regret. I have been as well here as I can be at
present. I live free from fatigue, agitation, trouble and constraint;
all these I shall find at Paris, but there would be a certain
affectation if I stayed away altogether; and before starting for
Germany I have a number of little things to do and some preparations
to make which can only be done at Paris, so I have resolved, though
with much reluctance, to start in April.
Yesterday I had a letter from Madame Mollien, which seems to me
amusing from beginning to end: "I must say a word to you of this fancy
dress ball, a carnival ball which will form an epoch in the annals of
the Tuileries, because for some hours it has brought back to its
walls, which are usually so sad, the frank, simple and unrestrained
cheerfulness which can only be seen in the simplest salons. The
success of the entertainment was due to the Prince de Joinville; no
one could withstand his impetuosity. The costumes were varied,
generally rich and tasteful with a few exceptions; there are
exceptions everywhere. The Queen, the old Princesses and the old
ladies who were not wearing costumes went in succession to the gallery
of Louis-Philippe. All in costume, ladies and gentlemen, met in
another part of the château and made a solemn entry about half-past
eight to the sound of an appalling band, composed of all kinds of
more or less barbarous instruments which the Prince de Joinville has
collected in his travels. He himself, in true Turkish costume, carried
an enormous drum of a most oriental kind, on which he made a
tremendous noise. A magician preceded the procession as a herald, and
the company was conducted by the Duchesse d'Orléans. She was splendid
with a dignified air: her costume was that of Marie of Burgundy, black
velvet richly embroidered with gold and trimmed with ermine; the tall
pointed cap which forms part of this costume was ornamented at the
front with a velvet bow embroidered with enormous stones; the cap
itself was of cloth of gold surmounted by a veil of tulle embroidered
with gold. Two ladies and two gentlemen, alike in costumes of the age
of Louis IX., escorted the Princess. The two ladies, whose costumes
were like hers though not so rich, were Mdmes. de Chanaleilles and
Olivia de Chabot; the men were M. Asseline, her Secretary of private
commands, and M. de Praslin, who looked very well in a long cloak of
brown velvet and marten fur, and called himself Philippe de Commines.
Poor Princess Clémentine was not a success: she wore a Turkish costume
which the Prince de Joinville had brought back from Syria; it was
handsome but heavy and ungraceful, and her supple and charming figure
was not shown off until after supper when she took off the enormous
headdress which was crushing her, to be able to dance more at her
ease. The Duchesse de Nemours, on the other hand, was charming: she
had copied a portrait of the wife of the Regent, whom she is supposed
to resemble. The outer dress was of red velvet, very short, with a
skirt standing out and trimmed with rubies and diamonds all round,
upon a skirt of white satin trimmed with two rows of broad green
fringe and garlands of pearls; a small velvet cap with one little
feather standing upright was put on the side of her head and touched
her forehead, leaving her head almost bare upon one side. Her very
fair hair slightly powdered, curled, fluffy, turned up on one side and
falling down on the other, gave her a coquettish appearance and an
apparent want of care which was charming. I have never seen her so
pretty, and so every one said. The others are not worth mentioning. At
the same time there were some pretty dresses, including ladies of the
time of the Ligue, of the Fronde, of Louis XIII., of Louis XIV., some
Spanish costumes, and also a vivandière of the time of Louis XV.,
which caused quite a sensation. Madame de Montalivet and Madame de
Praslin each appeared as Mlle. de Hautfort, in rivalry. Many of the
ladies were powdered. The Duc d'Orléans did not return from Saint Omer
as he had said he might do, to the great vexation of the Princesse; I
think his absence rather spoilt her evening. The Prince de Joinville
speedily rid himself of his Turkish costume; his two young brothers
first appeared in military costumes of the last century. After the
first dance they all three went away and soon came back again; the
Prince de Joinville and the Duc d'Aumale as _débardeurs_ and the Duc
de Montpensier as a _fifi_ of the time of the Regency. If you happen
to have a neighbour who is accustomed to go to fancy dress balls (I do
not think M. de Castellane is), you can ask him for explanations of
these costumes. Their chief merit and probably the reason for their
choice, is that they are an excellent support in themselves to
revelry, as they authorise and even require a cheerful manner. The
quadrilles were formed only in two rows; as there was plenty of room
they were able to stand without crowding. As the couples at each end
would have had too much space to traverse, each figure was repeated
only twice instead of four times, and thus without rest or relaxation,
ever in movement, each dance finished by a general galop to music
played in much quicker time for that purpose. This went on till
half-past three in the morning with a vivacity which I could hardly
believe possible. The Queen was greatly amused, and the King himself
seemed to find some pleasure in all this gaiety. He stayed till
supper, which was served in the Galerie de Diane at little round
tables, as at small balls. The Infants and Infantas of Spain were all
in costume, excepting their father and their mother. She only danced
the English dance, which concluded the ball. Her partner was an
_Incroyable_ of the Revolution, and they looked sufficiently
incredible. However, she excused herself from the last galop which
ended this dance and was more uproarious than all the rest. The Prince
de Joinville had the Duc de Nemours as his page, and he took a very
cheerful part in all these gaieties throughout the evening. He made
some attempt to imitate his brother, but the Prince de Joinville with
his wild spirits coupled with his grave and handsome face, his
alertness and originality, was in every respect inimitable. I have
forgotten to mention M. and Madame de Chabannes: she appeared as a
lady from the Court of Charles IX.; her costume, which was said to be
designed by Paul Delaroche, was exactly correct, and made her
absolutely hideous. He was wrapped from head to foot in those waves of
white muslin in which the Arabs are dressed; this was not an
imitation, for the whole thing came from Algiers--the costume, the
dagger, the pistol, and also an enormous gun which he had captured at
Blidah or at Milianah. He was on duty, and in this costume he preceded
the King and Queen when they came from their apartments to the
ballroom. In my opinion he showed not the least proof of courage in
this campaign.
"There was a continuation of these festivities the next day. All those
in costume who cared to do so met at the house of M. de Lasalle, the
King's ordnance officer, and the _Incroyable_ of the Infanta. His wife
had a splendid costume, said to represent Mlle. de Montpensier. The
Duc de Nemours, the Prince de Joinville and the Duc d'Aumale appeared
at this improvised meeting, which went on until five o'clock in the
morning, and is said to have been extremely gay. It was Shrove
Tuesday, when everything is permitted. There was also some amusement
in the morning: Madame Adélaïde gave her children's breakfast as
usual; the King and Queen always attend it as well as the Princesses;
it is held in the Palais Royal in Madame's own rooms. Several tables
are placed in three rooms, at one of which the Royal Family sits and
is served with all kinds of dainties. This table is the most amusing
point. This year Madame had added a little performance to amuse the
King; a piece from the theatre of varieties was played, the
_Chevalier du Guet_, which may perhaps have amused the King but
certainly not the children; of that I am certain. My two nephews were
with me, for Madame had invited them with a kindness which would not
allow me to refuse. I stayed there from three o'clock till seven and
then went back to spend the evening at the Tuileries, as I was on
duty, so that by Ash Wednesday I was nearly dead with weariness.
"There has been not a word spoken to-day about the fortifications, or
of the secret service fund, though to tell the truth certain statesmen
would not be entirely out of place amid these Carnival disguises."
_Rochecotte, March 2, 1841._--M. de Valençay writes to say that he
dined yesterday, which was Thursday, with Marshal Soult, a large
dinner-party to forty guests. The Aylesburys, the Seafords, Lady
Aldborough, the Brignole and Durazzo parties, and the Francis Barings
were there. My son sat near Francis Baring, a clever and agreeable
man, of whom he had seen a great deal at M. de Talleyrand's house,
especially in England, and who seems to retain a warm regard for his
memory. They had much talk. Sir Francis told him that a large number
of M. de Talleyrand's letters had recently passed through his hands,
as he had been going over and arranging all the correspondence of his
father-in-law, the Duke of Bassano. He added that after reading these
letters his impression was that my uncle had right upon his side in
his differences with the Duke of Bassano concerning the policy of the
Emperor Napoleon. In the course of this conversation Francis Baring
gave him a piece of information which might be useful to us, telling
him that one of his friends came to him a short time ago and said,
"You are not aware that Thiers professes to have found, while turning
over certain papers, some documents which compromise M. de Talleyrand
in the affair of the Duc d'Enghien." My son then went into certain
details to show Baring that the information which M. Thiers professes
to have acquired could only be erroneous, that my uncle had never
known anything of the Emperor's projects or his secret opinion
regarding the Duc d'Enghien, and every one who knew Napoleon was not
astonished at the fact.
I am glad to know what M. Thiers professes to disseminate as
information, with the object of giving an appearance of authenticity
to the _History of the Consulate and the Empire_, which he is now
writing.
When you have returned from your exile,[8] I shall ask you to request
Francis Baring to lend you the letters of which he has spoken to my
son. These letters might very well form a part of our great work, in
my opinion.[9]
[8] M. de Bacourt, to whom this letter was addressed, was still
acting as French Minister at Washington. This incident explains
the coolness which arose between the Duchesse de Talleyrand and
M. Thiers.
[9] This great work consisted in copying and classifying papers
which were collected under the title, _Memoirs of the Prince de
Talleyrand_.
The discussion upon the secret service funds has been much more
prolonged than was expected. In any case the vote is a matter of
doubt.
Yesterday's news was the scanty majority by which the English Ministry
carried Lord Morpeth's bill--five is indeed a small number; possibly
it indicates the approaching fall of the Cabinet.[10]
[10] The Irish Registration Bill had been proposed by Lord
Morpeth in the House of Commons, where it met with considerable
opposition.
It is impossible as yet to say what the fate of the bill concerning
the fortifications of Paris will be in the Chamber of Peers. The Duc
de Broglie is one of the most vigorous supporters of this law.
The newspapers announce the marriage of the old King of the Low
Countries with the Comtesse d'Oultremont.[11] The aunt of the King of
Prussia, the old Electress of Hesse has just died. The poor woman had
led a sad life with many trials and reverses; her wretched husband is
marrying the lady with whom I have so often seen him at Baden.
[11] On February 16, 1841, King William I. of the Low Countries
contracted a morganatic marriage with the Comtesse d'
Oultremont-Vegimont, after abdicating in 1840, in favour of his
son, King William II.
_Rochecotte, March 3, 1841._--The Duc de Noailles writes telling me
that M. de Flahaut is assiduously paying court to M. Guizot on every
possible occasion and in particular every evening at Madame de
Lieven's house, where his attentions begin as soon as he has passed
the door. In short, he seems as devoted to him as he was to M. Thiers;
however, he will not secure the Vienna post unless Sainte-Aulaire goes
to London, which he will only do if M. de Broglie who is urged to
accept London, should continue to refuse it.
The Duc also says that the King regards the question of the
fortifications as a peace problem, and declares that war need only be
made more difficult to become more unusual; that Germany is quite
right to fortify herself; and that we should fortify ourselves,
because in this way we shall check our impetuosity and each raise
obstacles which will prevent mutual attacks. The Duc d'Orléans, on the
other hand, regards the question from a revolutionary point of view;
he says that Europe will never permit his dynasty to continue or
recognise the principle of the Government which triumphed in 1830.
Some day or other Europe will attack him, and he should prepare for
defence even to-day. The Duc de Noailles himself seems to be preparing
a speech, for which he claims a great deal.
_Rochecotte, March 5, 1841._--The following is a passage from a letter
which I received yesterday from M. Molé: "The coalition has prevented
the powers of good from triumphing henceforward; power can only be
exerted now at the price of concessions, which I will never make, so I
consider my political or rather my ministerial career as terminated.
When any question seems to be worth the effort, I shall do my duty to
the Chamber of Peers, but neither more nor less than that. On that
point I am irrevocably decided. Blindness is everywhere paramount, and
in particular where clear-sightedness should reign. This reason makes
me doubt the future, which I regard in the darkest colours and with
many apprehensions of approaching disaster."
M. de Salvandy writes saying that he has to go to Toulouse this month
on family business and will ask me to put him up on his way. He adds,
"The campaign upon the question of the secret service funds has been
waged as mercilessly as that upon the fortifications question. M.
Thiers emerges defeated and without prospects; M. Guizot triumphant
in word but weakened in reality, for the majority are disturbed by the
observations of M. Dufaure. The session seems to be concluded, but the
vote of credit will arouse it to fresh life at the expense of M.
Thiers, and the discussion upon the law of the fortifications, if it
should end in the Chamber of Peers according to the wishes of M. Molé,
which seems unlikely, would complicate the situation more than ever."
The newspapers announce the death of M. de Bellune, who received the
sacraments from the hands of my cousin, the Abbé of Brézé, in the
presence of M. de Chateaubriand, the Marquis de Brézé and M. Hyde de
Neuville. No one could come to an end as a more thorough-going Carlist
than he. M. Alexandre de La Rochefoucauld has also died, but not in so
Legitimist a fashion.
M. Royer-Collard is sad, depressed and ill, and is angry that M.
Ancelot should have been elected to M. de Bonald's seat in the Academy
instead of M. de Tocqueville.
_Rochecotte, March 7, 1841._--I am delighted to hear that you like the
letters of Madame de Maintenon,[12] and am deeply flattered by the
likeness that you find between the nature of her intellect and of
mine. However, the Duc de Noailles has several times made the same
observation to me. I wish I were more capable of living up to the
resemblance. Apart from her mental qualities and a certain weakness
due to her position and to the time in which she lived, she had a
loftiness of soul, a firmness of character and a purity of principle
and of life which raised her very high in my esteem and provided a
better explanation of the astonishing fortunes which followed her,
than her beauty, her grace and her lofty thoughts can do.
[12] Extract from a letter.
_Rochecotte, March 8, 1841._--Yesterday evening my son-in-law read us
a delightful article upon Mlle. de Lespinasse in the _Revue des Deux
Mondes_ of March 1. The article is well written and reminds me of
several incidents which M. de Talleyrand told me of this personage,
who was no favourite of his. He thought that she was wanting in
simplicity, for one of the best features of M. de Talleyrand's taste
was his respect and liking for simplicity. He admired it in every
case, in mind, manner, language and feeling, and only a strange
conjuncture of circumstances or a very strained position could ever
prevent this noble instinct of simplicity from influencing his own
character and actions. Exaggeration and affectation he always hated.
My own failings in this respect were corrected in a remarkable degree
by my intercourse with him. At the time of my marriage I was somewhat
to blame in those directions, though I hope that is not the case now.
The improvement is due to him, as are many other things, for which I
cannot sufficiently thank his memory. To return to Mlle. de
Lespinasse, I well remember reading her _Letters_ which appeared
shortly after those of Madame du Deffant. I was not greatly attracted
by them; affected enthusiasm is by no means the same as real feeling,
and passion is not tenderness. In view of the want of principle that
characterised the eighteenth century, the one safeguard for the
individual was the yoke imposed by society with its customs and
demands. If one were ever so little outside that circle, there was no
check, and imagination carried people very far and very low. Mlle. de
Lespinasse, having neither family nor fortune, was not obliged to
consider a society to which she only half belonged, and led the life
of a clever man who is also a lady-killer. But now I seem to be
writing an article on the subject myself and what we read yesterday is
much better than this.
_Rochecotte, March 9, 1841._--The following is an extract from a
letter which I have from the Duchesse de Montmorency: "People here
think only of fortifications: those who usually trouble but little
about politics are full of them and society looks very askance upon
those who are supposed likely to vote in support of the law. My
husband says that he has not yet been _enlightened_; our family
interprets this to mean that the King has won him over. The fact is
that he is influenced by my son who has been commissioned by the
Château for this purpose, all of which vexes me exceedingly.
"M. Gobert, treasurer of the fund for the orphans of those who died
of cholera, was very devoted to the memory of the late Mgr. de Quélen,
and had a terrible scene with Mgr. Affre at a meeting of the
committee, when the Archbishop wished to dismiss him. M. Gobert
replied that he would not stir; in short, the whole business was very
scandalous and it is impossible to understand how these scenes of fury
and abuse of authority will end.
"The Duc de Rohan is marrying his daughter to the Marquis de Béthisy,
a very suitable match.
"In the newspapers you will see the filial comedy that has been played
by the Prince de la Moskowa. M. Pasquier is praised for not having
allowed him to speak. I am told that the Duc d'Orléans induced the
Prince de la Moskowa to enter the House of Peers in order that he
might vote for these stupid fortifications. It is also the Duc
d'Orléans who influences the _Journal des Débats_. Old Bertin and the
chief editors are strongly opposed to the fortifications, but young
Bertin, orderly officer to the Duc d'Orléans and M. Cuvillier Fleury,
private secretary to the Duc d'Aumale, insert what they please in the
newspaper, or rather what the Château pleases. I know that Bertin de
Veaux said the other day to one of my friends, 'Pray do not think that
I am inclined to support so fatal a measure.'"
_Rochecotte, March 14, 1841._--It was so fine yesterday and I had owed
a call so long to the wife of my sub-prefect,[13] that I resolved to
go to Chinon with my son-in-law between lunch and dinner. The road
from this house to Chinon is pretty and easy. At Chinon itself I
visited the great and noble ruins of the castle which overlook the
rich and smiling valley of the Vienne: the room where Joan of Arc
offered her holy sword to Charles VII.; the tower where Jacques Molay,
the grand master of the Templars was long confined; and the
subterranean passage leading to the house of Agnes Sorel; all these
things can still be seen and one regards them with the eye of faith,
which is the most important element in archæology. If this ruin were
restored as that of Heidelberg has been, the result would be most
picturesque. I stayed for a quarter of an hour at the office of the
charity organisation where the Sister Superior now is who spent
fourteen years in the household of Valençay and who had several times
expressed a desire to meet me. She is a thoroughly good person and
liked everywhere, and her departure was much regretted at Valençay.
When I rang the bell a sister came to tell me that the Mother Superior
was at the point of death and had received the last sacraments a few
hours before. However, I asked her to tell the invalid that I was
there and she insisted upon seeing me. I was much saddened by the
interview which cheered the failing life of this excellent person. She
told me, as the late Mgr. de Quélen once told me, that from the first
day when she had seen me to the day of her death which was now at hand
she had never passed a day without praying for me. It is good to be
loved by Christian souls and their loyalty is to be found nowhere
else.
[13] The Sub-Prefect of Chinon at that time was M. Viel.
When I returned from Chinon I found two letters which will influence
my movements during the summer; one was from the King of Prussia who
had heard of my travelling proposals and asks me to go and see him at
Sans Souci. This induces me to go to Berlin about May 12 and so one
point is settled. The other letter is from my sisters who tell me that
they will remain at Vienna until July 1, and that I ought to carry out
the proposal I had formed to go and see Madame de Sagan there if she
had lived. I am anxious that the tie between my sisters and myself
should be maintained. This is only as it should be and it is also a
comfort; we are now reduced to a very small group and the tie of blood
has a strength which one is surprised to find persisting in spite of
all that should naturally destroy it or at any rate weaken it.
_Rochecotte, March 16, 1841._--Yesterday I had a letter from Madame de
Lieven who says: "The Firman conferring heredity seems sheer humbug;
such was the opinion of the Pasha and even more so the opinion of
Napier, the English admiral. He has advised the Pasha to refuse it,
which he has done very politely. While these events were in progress
in the East, we here received a very polite invitation from London to
rejoin the concert of Europe in order to settle the Eastern Question
in general, and this invitation was preceded by a protocol announcing
that the Egyptian question was entirely settled. As the terms of
invitation seemed to be suitable, there was a disposition here to open
negotiations. Your Government has proposed some verbal changes which
were immediately accepted, and the matter was almost concluded when
the news that I have just told you arrived. M. Guizot immediately
brought the matter to a standstill, for the Egyptian affair, instead
of being terminated, is beginning again, and the Sultan and the Pasha
are as far from an understanding as ever. The Firman was dictated by
Lord Ponsonby and the other three representatives opposed it. The
English at Paris are ashamed of this despicable trick; every one
regards it as an act of bad faith, and there is some small amusement
at the embarrassment which will be caused to the northern Powers, as
the document will have to be drawn up again unless the whole quarrel
is to be reopened as if no Treaty of July 15 had ever been made.
Meanwhile the Germans are yearning to see the isolation of France come
to an end, as this position forces them to undertake great expense in
the way of armaments, while France will not hear of any understanding
as long as the difference with Egypt persists.
"And what of America? Lady Palmerston writes to me every week and says
in her last letter, 'We are very pleased with the news from America,
and everything will be settled.' This means that poor MacLeod will be
hung and the English territory will be seized. If this will satisfy
them, all well and good.[14] In China, English affairs are also going
badly.
[14] During the Canadian rebellion in 1837 and 1838, the
steamship _Caroline_ had been burnt on the Niagara River, and an
Englishman, Mr. Amos Durfee, was killed. Mr. Alexander MacLeod, a
United States citizen, was accused as his murderer, but Mr.
Gridley, judge at Utica succeeded in proving his innocence.
"Bresson will certainly return to Berlin. M. de Sainte-Aulaire has
recently arrived. He will go to London, when, I cannot say, probably
when you send an ambassador there. I do not know who will go to
Vienna.
"Lord Beauvale had an attack of gout during the celebration of his
marriage;[15] he told the priest to hurry up, and was taken home very
ill. The next day he was in bed and his wife had dinner at a small
table at his bedside. They will come to Paris on their way to England.
[15] _See_ p. 22 for the announcement of the marriage of Lord
Beauvale with Mlle. Maltzan.
"Adèle de Flahaut is dying; her father is behaving like a madman, but
her mother shows a man's courage.
"I have decided to send you Lady Palmerston's letter so that Pauline
may read the details that interest her."
The following is Lady Palmerston's letter to the Princess: "I must
tell you that my daughter Fanny is engaged to Lord Jocelyn. He is a
charming young man of twenty-eight, handsome, cheerful, loyal, clever
and pleasant, and he has travelled in every part of the world. He has
just come back from China, of which he gives very interesting
accounts. We are all very pleased with the marriage, which is quite
romantic. He sent his proposal in writing from Calcutta a year and a
half ago but could not wait for an answer as he was obliged to start
for Chusan; so he has been nearly two years wavering between hope and
fear and reached Liverpool without knowing whether he would not find
her married to some one else, for in the English papers which he
sometimes saw he occasionally found announcements of Fanny's marriage
with some other person. Lord Jocelyn's father is Lord Roden, a great
Tory, but that, you know, is a trifle which does not disturb us, as
Fanny's happiness is our first object, and love and politics do not go
together. Moreover, he is not a fanatic like his father, but very
reasonable and steady in his ideas.
"The news from America is pretty good upon the whole: it is all a
matter of talk and party spirit; the out-goers wish to make the
position difficult for the in-comers, almost in European style."
I now propose to copy a little romance which was composed by Henry IV.
and which I have found in the _Memoirs of Sully_. It seems to me full
of elegance and charm, and to be even more graceful than _Charmante
Gabrielle_:
Dawn of day
Come, I pray,
Gladden thou mine eyes;
My shepherdess
My heart's distress
Is redder than thy skies.
She is fair
Past compare;
See her slender form,
Eyes that are
Brighter far
Than the star of morn.
Though with dew
Touched anew,
Roses are less bright,
No ermine
So soft is seen
Nor lily half so white.
How pretty it is! Henry IV.'s letters are also charming; in fact his
figure alone lends interest to this extraordinary work which is as
heavy and diffuse as possible, though interesting to any one who has
the patience to delve in it.
_Rochecotte, March 27, 1841._--My son-in-law hears that the speech of
M. Molé against the proposed fortifications has not answered the
general expectation; that the speech of M. d'Alton Shée, which was
said to have been written by M. Berryer, sparkled with wit and clever
mockery and delighted the Chamber of Peers, which is really as much
opposed to the law as the Chamber of Deputies was, though it will
probably vote as the other Chamber has done.
_Rochecotte, March 29, 1841._--I have now reached my last week of
country life which will be filled with a thousand details,
arrangements, accounts, and orders to be given. I shall greatly miss
my solitude, my peace, the regularity of my daily life, the simplicity
of my habits, the health-giving work without fatigue or agitation,
which profits others and therefore myself. I cannot help feeling some
anxiety at leaving the protecting haven where I have been taking
shelter to set sail again. Society is a troublesome and stormy sea to
sail, for which I do not feel in the least fitted. I have no pilot and
cannot steer my ship alone, and am always afraid of running upon some
reef. My wide experience has not given me cleverness, but has merely
made me distrustful of myself, which does not conduce to the
possibility of a good passage.
_Rochecotte, April 2, 1841._--I see a notice in the newspapers of the
death of the Vicomtesse d'Agoult, mistress of the robes to the
Dauphine. The loss of so old and devoted a friend must be a severe
blow to the Princess, especially during her exile. There are few
griefs and trials through which she has not passed.
_Rochecotte, April 3, 1841._--The newspapers announce that the
amendment which would have sent back the law upon the fortifications
to the Chamber of Deputies, has been rejected by the House of Peers by
a considerable majority. This means that the law will pass in its
original form. The Château will be delighted.
The Duchesse de Montmorency tells me that I shall find hypnotism again
the rage in Paris: every one has his own medium, and little morning
and evening parties are given at which experiments are performed. This
fashion was introduced by Madame Jules de Contades, the sister of my
neighbour, M. du Ponceau. Her brother, who has been three months in
Paris, has obtained a woman of Anjou who is very susceptible to
hypnotism. She was with him at Benais[16] last autumn, and Dr. Orye
tells me wonderful things about her. He was formerly very incredulous,
but what he has seen of this woman has shaken his unbelief.
[16] Benais, the country residence near Rochecotte, then belonged
to M. and Madame de Messine, the parents of Madame du Ponceau.
_Rochecotte, April 4, 1841._--Certainly Paris is now to have its
fortifications. The Duc de Noailles writes me a letter upon the
subject which is very politic and probably very judicious, but which I
found very wearisome. He adds, "I may tell you as a piece of news
that the Princesse de Lieven is giving dinners; she has very fine
silver and china, and invited me last Monday with M. Guizot, Montrond,
M. and Madame de la Redorte, Mr. Peel (brother of Sir Robert Peel) and
Mrs. Peel. This was the second dinner she has given. The first was to
her Ambassador and his niece Apponyi. She also gave an evening
reception for the Duchess of Nassau, the widow and the daughter of
Prince Paul of Würtemberg, who came to spend a fortnight in Paris to
see her father who has been at death's door and is still very ill. The
Duchess of Nassau is deaf but she is very pleasant and agreeable. She
did not wish to call at the Tuileries but her father insisted. The
whole of the Royal Family, except the King, called upon her the next
day. Three days later she was invited to dinner and refused, saying
that she was obliged to go to Versailles on that day. She refused
before mentioning the subject to her father, who is certainly not a
supporter of the Philippe party, but felt the unpleasantness of the
refusal. He has insisted that she should make an appointment with the
Queen for her farewell call: the Queen replied that she was very
sorry, but that the engagements of Holy Week would not allow her to
receive her. As soon as she arrived, the Court placed its theatre
boxes at her disposal; she refused, saying that she would not go to
the theatre at all, though she has been to the Opera in the box of the
Duchesse de Bauffremont. In our faubourg people are delighted with
this conduct, which seems to me utterly stupid and in bad taste." I
also think such pranks are ridiculous.
As you are reading the little Fenelon,[17] remember that I especially
recommend the third and fourth volumes; I consider it is equal to
Madame de Sévigné and La Bruyère. The whole work is pervaded with the
inimitable grace and the fine and gentle austerity of the Christian
bishop, an aristocrat, a man of God and of the world, whose intellect
was terrifying, as Bossuet said.
[17] Extract from a letter.
I was starting in an hour and am very sorry to go. When and how shall
I return? The unforeseen plays too large a part in the life of each of
us.
_Paris, April 6, 1841._--At length I am in this huge Paris and my
impressions are by no means favourable.
_Paris, April 9, 1841._--Madame de Lieven wrote asking me to come and
see her, and I asked her to a quiet dinner with myself. She accepted
the invitation and appeared in full dress, less thin than before, and
in good spirits. She told me that her Emperor is as unsociable as
ever; that the little Princess of Darmstadt cannot endure the climate
of St. Petersburg and that the cold has given her a red nose; the
young heir is by no means in love with her, but will marry her. The
Princess assures me that nothing has been settled as regards
diplomatic changes; that Sainte-Aulaire will go to London and Flahaut
to Naples and the rest remains a matter of chance. It is thought that
Palmerston is secretly encouraging the strange actions of Ponsonby, as
the Eastern Question is by no means settled. Lord Granville has been
obliged to resign on account of his health. Lady Clanricarde is very
anxious to come to Paris, but the little Queen and Lady Palmerston do
not like her; however, she has been reconciled to Lord Palmerston,
whom she used to hate. It is said that the Queen would like to appoint
Lord Normanby to Paris, as he is a weak member of the Cabinet.
M. Decazes is so ill that people are thinking of his successor. Some
mention M. Monnier as a possibility, and I have heard other names
which I do not remember.
_Paris, April 10, 1841._--I should be glad to have something
interesting to say of Paris, where the clash and strife of interests
is so strong, but I have nothing and seem to be more vacant and
listless even than at Rochecotte. Many words buzz about my ears and
leave no impression and merely prevent the quiet course of my
reflections.
Yesterday after lunch I called upon Madame Adélaïde. She had heard
through a third person that I was at Paris and had asked me to come. I
had not proposed to appear at the Château until after Easter. I found
her ill and strangely changed; thin, bent, tired and grown old. She
was very pleasant, but really harassing with her interminable
discourse upon the fortifications. I think she must have sent for me
to discuss this subject, as if I had any opinion upon it or as if my
idea could be of any importance. I was more interested by the portrait
of Queen Christina of Spain which she showed me and which is an
agreeable picture. This Queen did not go to Naples because her brother
would not receive her. She should now be at Lyons, and it is thought
that she will come back here where the Court seems to be favourably
inclined to her. For the stout Infanta there seems to be less liking,
and she has not increased her popularity recently by sending her three
eldest daughters into a convent for no obvious reason. Since her
arrival here she took the three Princesses to balls and other social
functions, and now shuts them up in this way.
M. Molé came to see me towards the end of the morning, and is very
depressed upon the subject of politics. The fact is quite clear that
no one has gained either power or reputation. The Court seems to have
been so entirely committed to these wretched fortifications which no
one wants, not even those who have voted for them, that the
consequences have been almost ridiculous. Many people's feelings have
been hurt on this question and all who did not promise their vote were
ridiculed and insulted point blank. It is said that the Prince Royal
has not spared himself in the matter. I am very sorry, as I shall
always be about anything that may injure his position. At the present
moment he is at St. Omer.
_Paris, April 12, 1841._--Some one has just come in to tell me a sad
piece of news. The pretty Duchesse de Vallombrose, who was quite
young, was confined of her second child a few days ago and was
attacked with puerperal fever two days later. The servant whom I sent
to inquire for her was told that she died last night. It is very
dreadful. The little schoolmistress of Rochecotte was cured of this
same disease by country doctors, while the Duchesse de Vallombrose,
with the whole of the faculty about her, dies in spite of their
supposed science. Life indeed realises but little of what it promises.
_Paris, April 13, 1841._--The death of the Duchesse de Vallombrose
was yesterday a general subject of conversation. The unfortunate woman
seems to have had no suspicion of her danger. A priest was fetched
who, fortunately on this occasion, was a capable man (the Abbé
Dupanloup), and was obliged to prepare her mind for this terrible
conclusion. Deaths of this kind in the time of Louis XIV. would have
produced sudden conversions, but nothing can effect the worn-out
emotions and the dead consciences of our age, where everything is flat
and dull, at home and abroad.
_Paris, April 14, 1841._--M. de Sainte-Aulaire came to lunch with me
yesterday to ask some questions concerning the nature of the London
Embassy and its social position, as he is preparing to move thither.
M. Royer-Collard came in before he had gone and they talked of the
French Academy and of a new Book which M. Nodier is preparing, _The
History of Words_. People say that it will be a curious and serious
work, excellently written by a clever man, and a book of real
authority.
M. Royer-Collard told me that on the day of his daughter's death his
study door opened three times in a quarter of an hour to admit M.
Molé, who was quite simple; M. Thiers, who was less so; and M. Guizot,
who was nothing of the kind. Their meeting made the incident stranger
still. M. Guizot fell upon the neck of M. Royer-Collard, pale and in
tears, and the bereaved father felt too weak to keep him back, and I
think he was quite right. Two of M. Guizot's children had been
dangerously ill, and had been saved by the care of M. Andral.[18] M.
Royer-Collard had called upon M. Guizot to congratulate him upon their
recovery, and since that time when the two men met in the Chamber,
they have shaken hands and exchanged a few words. As I am a supporter
of peace in general, and think that the more we advance in life the
more we should incline in that direction, I told M. Royer-Collard more
than once that I was glad of the reconciliation.
[18] Dr. Andral was a son-in-law of M. Royer-Collard.
My children came to dinner with me and after they had gone I went to
bed. I might go into society if I pleased, or give receptions here,
but I have an invincible dislike to these functions, and the hour
during which I am at home to friends seems to me the longest in the
day. Our dear M. de Talleyrand, whose insight was so profound and who
spoke more truly of every one than I realised at the time, told me
very correctly that when my children were married I should fall out of
society. As a matter of fact I can no longer endure it. My priest, my
White Sisters, my garden, my poor people and my workmen, are enough
for me. What one knows as friends in society are quite uninteresting
compared with them. Madame de Maintenon said, "My friends interest me,
but my poor people touch my heart." I have often applied this phrase
to my own case and understand its meaning fully.
_Paris, April 16, 1841._--Yesterday the eldest daughter of the Duc de
Rohan-Chabot, with whom we are connected, was married to the Marquis
de Béthisy. It was a fine wedding, and all the high society of the
Faubourg Saint-Germain were there. I was invited to the celebration.
The Church of St. Thomas d'Aquin could hardly contain the crowd; the
throng in the sacristy was overwhelming; people were elbowing one
another on the steps, while the driving rain increased the confusion,
far from diminishing the haste of the visitors to return home. The
Abbé Dupanloup who daily baptizes, confesses, buries or marries some
one from our quarter, uttered a discourse which was somewhat long,
though it touched those who listened to it. But nearly every one was
thinking of such wholly mundane affairs as dress and display. At
Paris, and in our society, marriage is rarely an event of any
solemnity, and the words of the priest are the only serious utterances
amid the extreme frivolity, in which the marriage service can scarcely
be heard. It was a sight which evoked more than one sad reflection,
especially for those who remembered that in the same church the
evening before the last prayers were said over the coffin of the young
and beautiful Duchesse de Vallombrose.
_Paris, April 17, 1841._--Yesterday I took advantage of the kindness
of the Comte de Rambuteau, who offered me his box for the last
performance of Mlle. Mars. There was a crowded audience and every one
worth knowing was there, including the whole of the Royal Family.
Mlle. Mars exhausted all the artifices of her dress with surprising
success and all the resources of her talent with even greater success.
Her voice was in no need of training or study: it was always fresh and
perfectly modulated; if she would avoid parts that are too young for
her and change her style she might have continued on the boards for a
long time to come. Her farewell performance was a brilliant event and
she was overwhelmed with flowers and applause. The _Misanthrope_ was
disgracefully murdered by the poor company and Mlle. Mars alone
respected Molière. In _les Fausses Confidences_, there was more unity
and vigour and Mlle. Mars was a triumphant success.
_Paris, April 25, 1841._--M. Royer-Collard in the course of his last
visit but one to my house told me that he had some twenty of M. de
Talleyrand's letters which he would give me if I cared to have them. I
accepted his offer, as I am glad to have as many of M. de Talleyrand's
autographs as possible. He brought them to me the day before
yesterday; yesterday I read them through and some are excellent for
the gracious and studied simplicity which was peculiar to his style.
Among them I found what I had long been seeking for, though I had
never been able to put my hand upon it; a copy of the letter which M.
de Talleyrand wrote to Louis XVIII. when the memoirs of the Duc de
Rovigo on the subject of the Duc d'Enghien[19] appeared. I knew that
he had written it, but I had confused the dates and was under the
impression that this letter had been addressed to Lord Castlereagh
instead of to the King. M. de Talleyrand sent a copy of it to M. de
Royer-Collard, which copy I am now delighted to find again.
[19] This letter from M. de Talleyrand to King Louis XVIII. and
the reply sent to him by M. de Villèle in the King's name, may be
found in the appendix of the third volume of the _Memoirs of the
Prince de Talleyrand_.
M. de Villèle, who has not been at Paris since 1830 is now there. This
is an event for the Legitimist party. They are keenly anxious that he
should be reconciled to M. de Chateaubriand, and yet the two
gentlemen have not met hitherto, simply for the reason that neither of
them will make the first call, though both declare that they would be
delighted to see one another again and to forget the past.
_Paris, April 26, 1841._--Yesterday before the benediction I said
good-bye to all my good friends of the Sacré Coeur. All these ladies
are very proper and Madame de Gramont is quite an exceptional
personage for her cleverness, her kindness and her graciousness
combined with firmness. She is very kind to me and I am more at my
ease with her than with any society personage. The fact is that I am
out of touch with society and realise the fact daily; society not only
disgusts me but irritates and displeases me. I am disturbed, wounded
and agitated by it and go out less every day: the mental peace and
balance which I have recovered with such difficulty in my retirement
are lost here. I am dissatisfied with myself and by no means satisfied
even with those concerning whom I have no complaint to make.
_Paris, April 29, 1841._--Yesterday at the end of the morning I had an
infinite number of callers who came to say farewell and all seemed
equally tiresome; I can only make one exception in the case of the
good and excellent Russian Ambassador,[20] who proposes to spend part
of the summer at Carlsbad. His Sovereign is certainly not going to
Ems; it appears that the courts of St. Petersburg and of Berlin are
not upon good terms and that the King of Prussia sent his brother
William to be present at the wedding of the Hereditary Grand Duke
merely in order to avoid an open breach. The strained relations
between these two Courts are due to an opposition of commercial
interests, to the unpopularity of the Russians in Germany which the
Governments cannot overlook and especially to the behaviour of the
States in the Grand Duchy of Posen and to the liberty there granted
for the use of the Polish language. The Emperor Nicholas flew into a
temper and said that he might as well be living next to the Chamber of
French Deputies. These details are quite official. I have them from
the King himself whom I saw for a long time yesterday at his sister's
house, to whom I went to say good-bye. I found both of them much
disturbed by the sentence of acquittal pronounced a few days ago in
the notorious case of the false letters attributed to the King.[21]
The verdict is in fact wrong and unjust, for no one knows the
foolishness of these letters better than myself. On this occasion we
talked of many matters which prove that no one can ever write too
little, that hardly anything should be entrusted to paper and that
letters should above all be destroyed. I went home feeling really
terrified on this question.
[20] Count Pahlen.
[21] _See_ p. 15 (February 12, 1841). A judicial inquiry had been
begun against M. de Montour, the manager of the newspaper _la
France_, which had published the false letters. The matter was
long delayed by the defence, and did not come before a jury until
April 24. M. Berryer cleverly pleaded good faith on the part of
M. de Montour, who had thought the letters authentic, though he
had taken no pains to verify his belief. In the result the
manager of _la France_ was acquitted by six votes to six.
_Paris, May 1, 1841._--Yesterday I called upon the Duchesse d'Orléans
to receive certain messages for Berlin. She showed me her two
children: the eldest, the Comte de Paris, is the very image of his
grandfather, the King, though he is shy and delicate; the second is
like his mother and seems to be livelier than his brother.
_Paris, May 3, 1841._--The weather has grown cooler in consequence of
a storm during the night, which fortunately did not break soon enough
to disturb the fireworks and the illuminations in honour of the
baptism of the young prince.[22] The ceremony at Notre Dame passed off
very well and was entirely noble and dignified. The little Prince was
delightful. Every one noticed the admirable bearing of the Duchesse
d'Orléans, her reverent bows and the care with which she crossed
herself after entering the church. I should like to have gone, and the
kindness of Madame Adélaïde had given me an excellent opportunity, but
I was anxious about my daughter and did not go, as I did not wish to
miss the doctor's visit.[23]
[22] The Comte de Paris, born on August 24, 1838, was privately
baptized at the Tuileries on his birthday. He was not admitted
into the church until nearly three years later, when the ceremony
took place at Notre Dame with great splendour.
[23] The Marquise de Castellane was then seriously ill with
quinsy, from the effects of which she suffered for a long time.
_Paris, May 5, 1841._--M. Bresson, who came to say good-bye yesterday,
seems destined to return to Madrid and is by no means pleased at the
prospect. He evidently expected to go to Vienna. The King proposes to
send Montebello to that capital, but M. Guizot, who is influenced by
Madame de Lieven, wishes Vienna to be given to M. de Flahaut. Rumours
are in wide circulation that Madame de Lieven is making the
appointments to ambassadorial posts, and there is a violent outcry
against her in the French diplomatic body.
Pauline is better, but not well enough to accompany me to Berlin. I am
sorry to leave her, and the long journey weighs upon my mind. It is
real isolation. I shall be truly glad when I find myself once more in
Touraine; I feel that my real home is there, where I have my strongest
interests, duties and a useful centre of work. Anywhere else I exist
but do not put out roots.
_Metz, May 6, 1841._--I am now far from Paris and regret nothing in it
except my daughter, and have no great hopes that my journey will be a
relaxation. I dread the annoyance of it and the wearing life of high
roads and inns.
_Mannheim, May 8, 1841._--I left Metz at midday, after a good rest. I
then came on here without stopping, arriving at ten o'clock in the
morning. I was not searched at the frontier, but a terrible storm in
the night almost made me lose courage. However, I literally made head
against the storm, and am now at Mannheim. The inevitable
Schreckenstein was waiting for me and wished to take me to the castle
where a room was ready for me. I declined, and think that I pleased
others as much as myself by so doing. After dressing I called upon the
Grand Duchess Stephanie who had placed a carriage at my disposal. She
looks better than she did at Umkirch when she was suffering from her
terrible illness, but she can hardly move her left arm and remains a
little lame. It is whispered that what she considers to be rheumatism
is something much more serious; the doctors wish to send her to
Wildbad; she talks quite as usual. Princess Marie has grown rather
heavy and is somewhat faded, not to any great extent, but there is no
prospect that she will marry.
I called upon Baroness Sturmfeder, who is outwardly a great lady, and
upon old Walsch, who was beguiling her old age with the _Charivari_,
the _Wasps_ and the _Ready Made News_, lampoons which are now
fashionable; from such sources she derives her ideas and her kindly
sentiments. After leaving the castle I was driven to the Duchess
Bernard of Saxe Weimar whom I had seen in England; her husband is the
loving and beloved uncle of the Duchess d'Orléans. This was a mark of
respect upon my part, the more advisable as I am bound to meet them
before long at dinner at the castle. I have now returned and am
resting until dinner-time, which is at half-past four.
Since leaving Paris I have been reading a great deal, first a novel by
Bulwer, _Night and Morning_; it is not uninteresting, but not equal to
the early works of the same writer; then a short but delightful book,
_The Letters of the Princesse de Condé_, sister of the last Duc de
Bourbon, who died in the Temple as a nun. These letters were written
in her youth to one who is still living, and of whom she was very
fond, and quite unselfishly so. This was M. Ballanche, the friend of
Madame Récamier, who published the letters without appearing as the
hero of them. They are authentic, marked by simplicity, tenderness and
loftiness of thought, full of devotion, delicacy, sentiment, reason
and courage, and written at a time and in a society when the author,
her style and her sentiments were quite exceptional. The book is most
delightful.[24] Finally I have a small work by Lord Jocelyn, now the
husband of Fanny Cowper, concerning the English campaign in China. I
was attracted by the author's name, but found the book quite
uninteresting.
[24] These letters are addressed to M. de La Gervaisais, a young
Breton gentleman, an officer of carbineers of Monsieur's
regiment. The Princesse de Condé had made his acquaintance in
1786 at Bourbon l'Archambault, where she had been to take the
waters, and her feeling for him was both deep and pure.
_Mannheim, May 9, 1841._--Yesterday I dined with the Grand Duchess,
who afterwards showed me over the castle, which I pretended to see for
the first time. She told me so many things that I can hardly remember
any of them. One point has remained in my mind, the fact that
Princess Sophia of Würtemberg, who married the Hereditary Prince of
the Low Countries, is on very bad terms with her mother-in-law, who
will not even see her son's children. This Queen has introduced the
strictest etiquette and an infinite variety of Court dress.
I also learnt that the King of Prussia had passed a law making divorce
very difficult in his states. It certainly was scandalously easy to
procure; but the Grand Duchess, who was expecting the divorce of
Prince Frederick of Prussia, was greatly vexed by this disappointment.
The fact is that poor Prince Frederick, whose wife is mad, ought to be
provided with some means of breaking so sad a tie. The first use he
would make of an opportunity would be to marry Princess Marie.
The Duchess of Weimar told me that her sister, the Dowager Queen of
England,[25] had lost the use of one of her lungs and that the other
was very delicate. The sight of the Duchess of Weimar reminded me of
London, Windsor and the best time of my life. Her likeness to her
sister, which extends even to her voice, though this was not their
best feature, quite overcame me, as it reminded me of those years that
are now so far away.
[25] Queen Adelaide.
_Mannheim, May 10, 1841._--I am about to leave Mannheim after a very
kind reception. The poor Grand Duchess constantly talks of her death,
though this does not prevent her making many plans. I wish she could
realise her idea of marrying her daughter. She took me for a drive
yesterday along a pretty part of the bank of the Rhine. A port has
been made at Mannheim which attracts commerce and brings some life to
this town where life has long been dormant. On the whole, I think the
town preferable to Carlsruhe. I had a letter from my son-in-law
written the day after my departure from Paris. Pauline was going on
fairly well, though her nerves were still shaken and she was very
weak. He also says: "At the Prince's baptism the register was signed
in the following order: the King and his family, then the Cardinals,
the President and officials of the Chamber of Peers, then the
President of the Chamber of Deputies. Then came the turn of M. de
Salvandy, the vice-president, who publicly refused to sign on the
ground that the Chamber of Deputies should not be represented as
inferior to the Cardinals. He wishes to make a public matter of it,
which will produce a bad effect, the more so as the Chamber, with
reference to the law concerning secondary education, showed itself
quite unfavourable to the religious reaction which is obviously in
progress; moreover, such susceptibility might easily cause an
unpleasant outburst."
_Gelnhausen, May 11, 1841._--I travelled faster than I had thought
possible, and instead of sleeping at Frankfort as I had intended I
went ten leagues further, and am now lodged in a little inn which at
any rate is clean; this will allow me to reach Gotha to-morrow without
spending part of the night in my carriage. I had lunch at Darmstadt.
Frankfort aroused many memories as I passed through it, for it is a
town that I have crossed at different times, and in very different
circumstances. The first of these was the most important, for at
Frankfort I was married. Afterwards I saw my good friend Labouchère
there for the first time; he has often reminded me of the incident
since.
The Grand Duchess Stephanie has given me a book which has just been
published at Stuttgart; obviously the publication was inspired by
Austria, for the documents which the book contains seem to me to come
from Vienna, and probably from the study of Prince Metternich or its
neighbourhood. This little volume contains notes in French by Gentz
upon several political questions, all treated in a spirit of great
opposition to France. Their publication at this moment and the
editor's preface seem to me to show that they have been produced with
a purpose. The most interesting part of the book to me is the journal
of Gentz kept during his stay at the Prussian headquarters the week
before the battle of Jena. He was a close observer and a lively
writer, and the result is quite interesting. There are also
commentaries upon a correspondence between Mr. Fox and M. de
Talleyrand at the time when the peace of Amiens was broken. The book
can certainly offer several forms of attraction.
_Gotha, May 12, 1841._--I had proposed to arrive here yesterday
evening but the outskirts of Fulda and Eisenach are so complicated
that I had to sleep at Eisenach, where I naturally dreamt of St.
Elizabeth. I am staying here for a few hours to see the Dowager
Duchess who was a great favourite of my mother and was quite vexed
with me last year because I left Germany without paying her a visit
here. Apart from this, my monotonous travels are proceeding without
incident and in fairly fine weather.
_Wittenberg, May 13, 1841._--The Dowager Duchess of Gotha received me
with the utmost kindness, asked me to dinner and hurriedly invited
five or six people from the town who had known me in my youth. She
dines at three o'clock and at six o'clock I asked leave to continue my
journey. I would have stayed longer if the poor duchess had not grown
so deaf that the honour of replying to her questions was literally
exhausting. I preferred to spend the night in my carriage, for if I
had slept at Gotha, I should certainly have had to spend the evening
at the Castle. I am therefore going to take my rest here that I may
not reach Berlin entirely exhausted. I have borne the journey very
well so far and my little halt at Mannheim was a pleasant interruption
to the monotony of my life on wheels.
For the last two days I have been reading a life of Queen Blanche of
Castile by a certain lady whose work was well reviewed; the facts are
interesting but the style is poor and the tone of the work is very
anti-Catholic. While I am reading I cannot help conducting a silent
course of refutation against the author; silence is very appropriate
here at Wittenberg, the old cradle of the Reformation. From the
convent of the Augustine monks, the ruins of which are now before my
eyes, Luther launched his first firebrand, and he was buried in the
church by the side of the inn.
_Berlin, May 15, 1841._--I arrived here yesterday evening but have
seen no one yet except my business man, Herr von Wolff. At midday I
called upon the Countess of Reede, the Queen's chief lady and an old
friend of my mother, and then upon the chief lady of the Princess of
Prussia, to deliver the numerous parcels which the Duchesse d'Orléans
had asked me to take to this Princess. I then went to the Werthers, to
Countess Pauline Neale and Madame de Perponcher and I found no one at
home.
_Berlin, May 16, 1841._--No one would guess who gave me his arm to the
mass from which I have just come. It was Peter von Arenberg who has
come to ask that his property on the right bank of the Rhine should be
made an hereditary fief for one of his sons.
_Berlin, May 17, 1841._--To-day is a day of sad and grievous memories,
being the third anniversary of the death of our dear M. de Talleyrand.
It is a day which always arouses many recollections and I am sure that
these will not be without their influence upon others. I wish I could
spend it in quiet thought, but that is impossible here.
Yesterday was an unusually busy day for me and I am quite wearied.
Mass was followed by the necessary calls upon the great ladies of the
country; dinner with the Wolffs; tea with Princess William, the King's
aunt; a _prima sera_ with the Radziwills; while I spent the latter
part of the evening with the old Prince of Wittgenstein. Besides all
this I had a long call from Humboldt who is starting for Paris in a
few days. It was impossible to breathe. The worst part of it is that
everything here begins so early and that the day is divided in an
unusual and very disagreeable manner.
_Berlin, May 18, 1841._--Yesterday I dined with the King and Queen who
had come to spend a few hours in town. They were both most kind and
pleasant. I saw Prince Frederick arrive from Dusseldorf, who is also
one of the old acquaintances of my youth. He still looks surprisingly
young. His wife is expected here; she seems to have become totally
insane.
I heard yesterday, while dining with the King, that one of the
unfortunate Infantas of Spain whom their mother so cruelly placed in a
convent, had escaped with a Polish refugee, but had been caught at
Brussels; a fine escapade for a princess! It seems impossible to
repress Spanish blood at the age of twenty. The King also said that
Espartero had been proclaimed sole regent and dictator in Spain.
_Berlin, May 20, 1841 (Ascension Day)._--Yesterday I went from Berlin
to Potsdam by the first train. The King had asked me to be present at
a great parade. It was a fine spectacle. The weather was propitious,
the troops splendid, and the music magnificent, but the day was
somewhat fatiguing.
The day before yesterday I dined with the Princess of Prussia and in
the evening I went to a rout given by Countess Nostitz, the sister of
Count Hatzfeldt. All that I have to do is to go about, to show good
temper, kindliness and gratitude for my many kind receptions; at the
same time, when I can return to my idle life I shall be delighted.
_Berlin, May 21, 1841._--There is a great monotony about life here;
dinners with princes, etc. Yesterday I dined with Princess Charles,
after spending an hour with the Princess of Prussia, whose
conversation is lofty and serious. In the evening I spent some time by
the arm-chair of the old Countess of Reede and with her daughter
Perponcher. I was then obliged to show myself at the Werthers, who are
at home on Thursdays.
_Berlin, May 22, 1841._--Yesterday evening I went to the Wolffs to
meet various learned men, artists and literary people. At Berlin the
upper-middle-class society provides the pleasantest opportunities for
conversation.
The present King has great ideas for adorning his capital, and is
giving a remarkable stimulus to Art.
Life proceeds much as usual. Yesterday I dined with Princess William
the aunt, and spent the first part of the evening with the Princess of
Prussia and the latter part of it with Madame de Perponcher, where a
distinguished artist, Hensel, showed us his sketch-book, which was
full of strange portraits. The heat was unusual.
Princess Frederick of Dusseldorf, who is not quite right in her head
at times, was dining with Princess William. She must have been rather
pretty, and there is nothing unusual about her.
Pauline writes from Paris that she is going to Geneva for change of
air and to try her strength, and that if she feels better, she will
travel through Bavaria and meet me at Vienna.
I am returning this morning to Potsdam, where I have promised to spend
the day, and shall come back to-morrow. How pleasant it would be to
find myself once more in my little manor house at Touraine.
_Berlin, May 24, 1841._--As the evening party at Potsdam was over at
ten o'clock, I was able to return here in the evening by the last
train, after spending the day with the Queen. She improves greatly
upon close acquaintance, as is usually the case with persons who are
simple and somewhat reserved. We had a pleasant drive in the evening,
and an interesting conversation at tea-time under the portico of the
Charlottenhof, when the King talked much upon the state of Art in
Germany.
_Berlin, May 25, 1841._--Yesterday I went to the manœuvres with the
Princess of Prussia, her young son and Princess Charles. The King's
staff was most brilliant, our position was excellent, the weather was
perfect, and the sight of the troops, of the spectators who had come
from the town in crowds, of the ladies' carriages, and in short of the
whole gathering, made the subject worthy of the brush of Horace
Vernet; nor did the business last long, an hour and not more. The
Princess of Prussia took me back to lunch with her and kept me talking
almost until dinner-time. Madame Perponcher came to fetch me to dine
near her mother's chair, as her gout still keeps her somewhat of a
prisoner. I then went to the Radziwills to the jubilee festival of the
Academy of Singing. The Academy is composed of four hundred and fifty
members, amateurs of every class: by their rules they are not allowed
to use any instrument but a piano and may perform only sacred music.
The institution thus resembles the Ancient Music at London, but the
performance here was infinitely better, and was marked by a unity, an
accuracy and a majesty truly remarkable. None but Germans could thus
sing the most complicated fugues without the help of an orchestra and
with such tremendous tone.
I then went to an evening reception given by the Countess Neale, where
Lord William Russell told me that his Ministry had suffered a heavy
defeat in Parliament, but he did not seem to think they would resign.
He told me that poor Mitford, whom I recently met unexpectedly as he
was leaving the diligence at Fulda to meet his wife at Wiesbaden,
found that she had deserted him with Francis Molyneux of all people.
She is not very young or very beautiful, and she has several children.
My son, Valençay, writes that the races at Chantilly were most
brilliant and fashionable. He stayed at the Château, and is loud in
his praises. He says that the Infanta who was caught and brought back,
is now staying with Madame Duchâtel, the wife of the Minister of the
Interior, as she positively refuses to return to her mother, whom she
fears would beat her. She persists in saying that she married the
Pole, but refuses to disclose the name of the priest who married them.
_Berlin, May 26, 1841._--The old King of the Low Countries, who is
here incognito as the Comte de Nassau, is in very bad health, and is
said to be attacked by senile gangrene. His wife,[26] who is very
kindly treated by the Prussian Royal Family, takes great care of the
King who cannot do without her for a moment. She never leaves his
side. People say that she is really very bored and disgusted by this
illustrious marriage which Holland will not recognise in spite of the
old King's fury. The refusal to give recognition in Holland is based
upon the fact that the marriage banns were not published, nor did any
one venture to publish them, as the most violent public demonstrations
were feared.
[26] The Comtesse d'Oultremont.
Yesterday morning I accompanied the Wolffs and Herr von Olfers, the
Director of the School of Fine Arts, to the studio of Wichmann, to
whom I had given an order to copy a charming model that I had seen of
a nymph drawing water. It will be finished in a year.
The Prince of Prussia paid me a long and interesting visit. He talked
a great deal about the state of the country and the difficulty of
government. Difficulties there certainly are, but there is also here a
solid basis on which to rest.
_Berlin, May 28, 1841._--Yesterday morning was spent with Herr von
Wolff discussing business. Our conversation was interrupted by the
Court High Marshal, who brought me a very touching present from the
King. It is a copy in iron of a statue which I had admired last year
at Charlottenhof; a young faun upon a pillar in the midst of a basin
pouring water out of an urn upon which he is crouched. The whole work
is six feet high and very pretty. The King told me that he would ask
me to have it placed upon one of the terraces of Rochecotte, which
shall certainly be done.
I dined with Princess Albert. Her father is better, and she is
starting with him shortly for Silesia. Her husband wearied me, and she
herself is like a colt broken loose. In fact the whole household was
not to my taste. Herr and Frau von Redern, who were also dining there,
took me to their box to hear Seidelmann in the part of the Jew.[27] He
is now the fashionable actor, but he compares unfavourably with my
recollections of Iffland.
[27] In Shakspere's _Merchant of Venice_.
_Berlin, May 30, 1841._--The Radziwills most kindly arranged a musical
matinée at their house in a pretty vaulted room opening on to their
splendid garden. Goethe's _Faust_ was performed which had been set to
music by the late Prince Radziwill, the father of the present
generation. Devrient, the first tragedian from the Berlin theatre,
declaimed certain passages to musical accompaniments, and a large body
from the Conservatoire gave the choruses. The general effect was
excellent and gave me real pleasure.[28]
[28] Prince Anton Radziwill had been sent to Göttingen to
conclude his studies, and while he was then staying in Germany in
1794, he made the acquaintance of Goethe, who was already working
at the first part of _Faust_. Prince Radziwill was profoundly
attracted by the beauty of this work, and as he was himself a
most enthusiastic musician he undertook to put certain scenes of
the great poet's creation to music, and completed the work of
composition by degrees. The Prince was on terms of personal
intimacy with Goethe, who slightly modified the garden scene
between Faust and Margaret at his request. The first performance
of _Faust_ with Prince Radziwill's music was given at Berlin in
1819, at the Palace Theatre of Monbijou, before the whole of the
Prussian court. The Berlin Academy of Music, to which the Prince
presented his work, has performed it almost annually since that
date.
_Berlin, May 31, 1841._--I propose to leave here to-morrow for Dresden
and to proceed thence to Vienna.
Yesterday I went to the High Mass of Pentecost which was very well
performed and sung in the Catholic church, but the church was so
crowded and the heat so suffocating that I thought I should be ill.
However, on leaving Mass I had to appear at the farewell audiences of
the Princess of Prussia and of Princess Charles, and then to dine with
an old friend. While we were at table I received an invitation to go
to tea at Schönhausen, the summer residence of the King, two leagues
from Berlin. I was fortunately able to reach Schönhausen in time, and
after tea I stayed on to supper which was served in the open air under
a verandah lighted by lamps. Apart from the Royal Family and the
officials on duty there were the Duke and Duchess of Leuchtenberg,
Herr von Arenberg, myself, Rauch, Thorwaldsen and the chief director
of the museum, Herr von Olfers. It was an agreeable and interesting
party. Thorwaldsen has a fine head resembling that of Cuvier, but he
wears his hair in a strange manner, long white locks falling over his
shoulders. I prefer the features of Rauch which are better
proportioned, and in my opinion nobler and simpler. The Duchess Marie
of Leuchtenberg is extremely like her father, the Emperor Nicholas,
though with a very different expression: her head is classical in
form, but too long for her body which is small; she is as white as a
lily, but her finical and fantastic manners did not charm me. The
Queen had mentioned me to her, and the King introduced me to the Duke
of Leuchtenberg, who is strikingly like his sister, the Duchess of
Braganza, though his general appearance is common and does not justify
the marriage he has made. At Schönhausen I paid my last farewells.
_Dresden, June 2, 1841._--The day before yesterday I left Berlin
overwhelmed and spoilt with kindness, but wearied by the dreadful
heat. The Baron von Werther whom I saw on my last day at Berlin, told
me he feared that M. Bresson had not been entirely happy during the
last years of his stay; that his speech had caused much displeasure
and inspired great distrust; that he was ill-informed if he thought
the contrary; and that all his reliable sources of information had
been closed since the death of the old King. The Princess of Prussia
and Madame Perponcher spoke to the same effect. I also learnt that
when the treaty of July 15 was made known here, M. Bresson committed
an inconceivable outburst, drove down the _Unter den Linden_ and
shouted war in the wildest manner. I am really sorry that he should
re-enter upon a position that he has spoilt.
_Dresden, June 3, 1841._--Yesterday evening I went to the theatre to
see the new auditorium which has a great reputation throughout
Germany. It is, in fact, of considerable size, pretty and well
decorated. The boxes are convenient, the seats comfortable and there
is an air of grandeur about the whole. The decorations are fresh, the
costumes brilliant and the orchestra good, but the singers so bad that
I could only stay for half an hour.
_Prague, June 5, 1841._--Prague is not without interest for me. I
there spent the year of mourning for my father with my mother and
sisters and afterwards revisited the town upon two occasions shortly
after the Congress of Vienna. I have been spending to-day there and
think I have driven round to every object of interest: the chief
churches, the tomb of Tycho Brahé and his observatory; all the
offerings in honour of St. John Nepomucenos, his relics, the old
castle, the Calvary from whence Prague is to be seen as a panorama;
Wallenstein's war horse, which has been stuffed, and the various
traces of the Hussite war and of the Thirty Years War; the bombs
thrown by Frederick II.; the chapel where Charles X. prayed twice a
day and which was restored by him, bears the arms of France and of
Navarre. Prague, like Nuremburg, is one of the oldest towns in
Germany: the latter may be more interesting to artists, but the former
is more attractive to the archaeologist, and I am one of the latter
class. Prague contains sixteen convents, every class of monk is to be
found there, and though upon a much larger scale it reminds me of
Friburg in Switzerland. Especially characteristic are the large
residences, almost all kept by the great Bohemian lords who own them
and who are generally deserting Prague in favour of Vienna. I was
curious enough to look in at the theatre of the Leopold Stadt to see a
local farce played by a Vienna company. The auditorium which was by no
means beautiful, was crowded and the laughter was loud and long; I
stayed only a short time as it was too hot and the Vienna lazzi are
not to my taste. I do not understand them.
_Vienna, June 8, 1841._--I had a most unpleasant journey from Prague
hither. The weather had broken: it was cold, stormy, and damp; I spent
the first night in my carriage and the second in a small inn,
eventually arriving here at three o'clock this afternoon. I am staying
in rooms which my sisters had engaged for me. I have already seen my
quondam brother-in-law, the Count of Schulenburg, whom I shall make my
major-domo, for which position he is exactly suited.
It is strange to be once more at Vienna.[29] The whole of my destiny
is contained in the name of this city, and here my life of devotion to
M. de Talleyrand began and that strange and unusual association was
formed which could only be broken by death, though broken is the wrong
word; I should have said interrupted, for I have constantly felt
during the past year that we shall meet elsewhere. At Vienna I entered
upon that troublesome and attractive life of publicity which rather
wearies than flatters me. I found much amusement here and many
occasions for tears: my life became complicated and I was involved in
the storms which have so long roared about me. Of the many who turned
my head and provided me with amusement and excitement, none remain.
Old and young, men and women, all have disappeared; indeed the whole
world has undergone two changes since that time. My poor sister with
whom I was to live, is also dead. Prince Metternich alone remains; he
has sent me very pleasant messages and I shall probably see him
to-morrow.
[29] The author had accompanied the Prince de Talleyrand to
Vienna for the Congress of 1815, and the Prince refers to the
incident in his Memoirs as follows: "I also thought that it was
necessary to destroy the hostile prejudice with which imperial
France had inspired the high and influential society of Vienna;
for this purpose the French Embassy must be made a social centre.
I therefore asked my niece, the Comtesse Edmond de Périgord, to
accompany me and do the honours of my house. Her readiness and
tact caused general satisfaction, and were highly useful to me."
(Vol. II. p. 208.)
I doubt if I shall sleep to-night; I am greatly disturbed by the
ghosts which haunt these scenes and which all speak with one voice of
the vanity of the things of this world.
_Vienna, June 10, 1841._--The choice of M. de Flahaut as French
ambassador here, which recent news from Paris represents as
increasingly possible, has aroused general dissatisfaction. Madame de
Flahaut wrote to Lord Beauvale, the English ambassador, to try and
disarm this opposition and said that people need not be afraid of her
husband's appointment as she would not be able to follow him for a
long time. This is certainly an unusual method of seeking popularity.
I went back to my house yesterday at two o'clock in the afternoon to
await Prince Metternich who had sent word to say that he would come at
that time. He kept his appointment and I did not find him greatly
changed. It is a real pleasure to see him again and to find him in
possession of all his freshness of mind, his power of judgment, his
wide knowledge of men and affairs and his genial kindness to myself
which has never varied. He stayed for two hours upon which I look back
with great pleasure. As a rule he never pays personal visits. His wife
sent to say that she would have come if she had not been afraid of
wearying me, as she was extremely anxious to make my acquaintance. No
one could have been kinder; I am dining with them to-day in their
suburban villa where they are spending the spring.
I hear that Schlegel, the platonic admirer of Madame de Staël, is at
Berlin to help in the publication of the works of Frederick the Great.
M. Thiers was expected there and I am glad to have missed him. It has
been decided to receive him as a member of the Academy and as a
historian, but not as a politician and certainly not as a statesman.
Meanwhile M. Guizot seems to be taking walks with the Princess de
Lieven at nine o'clock in the morning in the gardens of the Tuileries,
which is their mode of observing nature.
I found that Marshal Marmont had called when I came home yesterday
evening. I had seen him from a distance at the opera.
_Vienna, June 11, 1841._--Yesterday I dined with Prince Metternich. He
has a pretty house like a small edition of Neuilly, and has collected
many artistic objects which are tastefully interspersed with fine
flowers and many other things without any appearance of overcrowding.
There were at dinner, apart from the master and mistress of the house,
only the unmarried daughter of his first marriage, my sisters, the
Louis Saint-Aulaire, husband and wife, and the two Herren von Hügel,
who are constant visitors at the house. Princess Metternich is very
pretty, quite natural and attractive, an original character; and as
she was kind enough to be anxious to please me, she naturally
succeeded without difficulty. After dinner I called upon some members
of the Hohenzollern family who are here, and finally went to tea with
an old friend of my sisters'. There were a dozen people present who
were all unknown to me apart from Prince Windisch-Graetz, a Count
O'Donnel, a survivor of the Hotel de Ligne, and Marshal Marmont, who
did not seem to have changed.
_Vienna, June 12, 1841._--Yesterday morning I went with my sisters to
call upon their great friend Princess Amelia of Sweden, at whose house
I met her sister, the Grand Duchess of Oldenberg; she is going to
Munich with her husband to see the Queen of Greece, who has come there
in the course of a tour. I then called upon a Polish lady whom I had
known long ago at the house of Princess Tyszkiewicz at Paris, whose
niece she was. She was then called Madame Sobánska and enjoyed a
certain reputation. I found her considerably changed; she is a person
of wit and some beauty, but is rather spiteful and a gossip--a
character to be feared. I had hardly returned from these calls when
Marshal Marmont came in. He talked a great deal of his anxiety to
return to France, but I think pecuniary rather than political reasons
are the hindrance. He spends his life here at the French Embassy.
_Vienna, June 14, 1841._--Yesterday I went to hear mass at the Church
of the Capuchins, with the intention of afterwards seeing Father
Francis, who was with my sister in her last moments. I was anxious to
learn from him some details on the subject of religion which my other
sisters could not give me. I found him a pleasant and clever man, who
seemed to conceal beneath his mendicant friar's dress a considerable
knowledge of the world and a considerable power of making his way in
it. He is said to be the director here of all whose consciences are
divided between God and the world, a difficult task in which success
is not easy.
_Vienna, June 15, 1841._--Louis de Sainte-Aulaire came to see me
yesterday morning. He told me that the illness of Marshal Soult to
which the newspapers refer, is not so much connected with the law
concerning recruiting, against which the Duc d'Orléans publicly voted,
as due to an outbreak of paternal rage. He regards the nomination of
M. de Flahaut to Vienna as a slight upon his son; he threatened to
resign, and it is not yet known whether M. de Flahaut will have the
honour of dislocating the Cabinet or whether he will be obliged to
abandon Vienna. M. Bresson has started from Paris for Berlin in a very
bad temper.
_Vienna, June 16, 1841._--Yesterday I had a letter from Madame de
Lieven from Paris; she writes as follows: "Marshal Soult has caused a
small municipal crisis. The Duc d'Orléans voted against him upon the
recruiting law: the Marshal's views were rejected and he was extremely
angry; the result being a fit of palpitations with a possibility of an
apoplectic stroke; hence the threat to resign. It is very doubtful
whether he can be appeased, and his wife is most anxious about his
health. It is a great perplexity, as the two positions which he
occupied will have to be filled. M. Guizot has resolved not to become
President of the Council; however, there is some hope that the
Marshal will remain in office. In England there is a far more serious
crisis. Parliament will be probably be dissolved to-morrow, but the
electoral outlook is doubtful. Possibly a House of Commons may be
returned similar to the House now to be dissolved, in which case it
will be impossible for any one to govern the country. Meanwhile much
agitation prevails. The Eastern Question is by no means settled; on
the contrary, Turkey grows daily more disturbed.
"Lady Jersey is anxious for her daughter to marry Nicholas Esterhazy.
The young people are extremely fond of one another. Paul Esterhazy is
trying to get out of the matter which is difficult.
"The Prince de Joinville was most warmly received at the Hague. The
King and Queen overwhelmed him with marks of violence. What impression
will this make at St. Petersburg?
"M. de Flahaut has been nominated as Ambassador to Vienna. The
proposal has been accepted but with no great warmth. In any case there
can be no further changes or nominations, for the London post remains
vacant, as Lord Palmerston will not conclude the eastern problem, and
nothing will be done until Sainte Aulaire has gone to London."
_Vienna, June 17, 1841._--Charles de Talleyrand came yesterday to tell
me the latest news from Paris. Marshal Soult's quarrel has been
settled: he will remain in office, and his son-in-law will go to Rome
as ambassador; the Marshal is to receive 600,000 francs in payment of
some loan which he professes to have made to the State. The
Turko-Egyptian business is settled: the act will be ratified and sent
to Alexandria, and the five Courts will meet at London if they have
not already come to an agreement.
_Vienna, June 18, 1841._--Yesterday evening I went to hear a German
tragedy and then to tea with Prince Metternich. At the end of the
evening the Prince began to talk over a round table, and was most kind
and interesting. Except on Sundays when they are at home he sees very
little society, and his house in my opinion is the pleasanter in
consequence. Marshal Marmont is there every day.
_Vienna, June 19, 1841._--Yesterday I went with my sisters to visit
the Imperial Picture Gallery. I am surprised that it is not better
known, for it contains some most beautiful works. It lies outside the
town in a palace called the Belvedere, which was built by Prince
Eugène of Savoy. The interior is very handsome.
I dined at the house of Princess Paul Esterhazy and with Prince and
Princess Metternich and their daughter, Prince Wenzel, Lichtenstein,
Schulenburg, Lord Rokeby, Count Haugwitz and Baron von Hügel. Princess
Esterhazy was very amusing with her fear of Lady Jersey as
mother-in-law. The marriage, however, has not been definitely settled.
_Vienna, June 21, 1841._--I am delighted to hear that you like
Fenelon's Letters.[30] They explain everything in a form which
illustrates the faithful and courageous devotion paid to this kindly
and holy Archbishop by the courtiers of the great King. He is able to
give a charm and a grandeur to religion, to make it at once simple and
attractive by its loftiness. If to read the story with his intercourse
with his friends does not produce conversion, at any rate no one can
fail to derive from it a love of goodness, of beauty, and a desire to
lead a better life as a prelude to a good death.
[30] Extract from a letter.
The _History of Port Royal_ by Sainte-Beuve is certainly interesting.
It is a great subject, but treated in a style which is neither
sufficiently serious nor simple, and cannot worthily represent the
austere and imposing figures of Jansenism.
_Vienna, June 25, 1841._--I propose to start next Wednesday and from
Prague to take the road which will bring me back to my nieces in
Saxony; from thence I shall go by Lusatia to upper Silesia to see my
sister Hohenzollern who will be there at that time, and shall
afterwards go to my own property at Wartenberg where I hope to be on
July 26.
_Vienna, June 26, 1841._--Yesterday I dined with Prince Metternich;
only the family were present. I went on to the theatre and afterwards
to the _Volksgarten_, a kind of Tivoli, where Strauss plays his
waltzes, where Styrians sing and all the good or bad society of Vienna
meets during this season. My sisters who were with me, then took me to
their house where we had tea.
Lord Palmerston rouses much discontent as he continually raises some
new obstacle when the Egyptian question is at the point of conclusion.
His conduct is strangely tactless. All kinds of conjectures are in the
air and much exasperation was displayed where I was dining yesterday.
_Vienna, June 28, 1841._--The weather here yesterday was most
remarkable: after midday a violent wind arose which raised clouds of
dust, completely shrouding the town and suburbs; the burning wind was
a real sirocco which withered and exhausted every one.
I went to mass at the Capuchin church to say goodbye to Father Francis
who gave me his blessing. I then returned home to wait for Marshal
Marmont who had asked permission to read me forty pages from the
manuscript of his memoirs which he has devoted to justifying his
conduct during July 1830. I was unable to refuse. I learnt nothing
particularly fresh, as I knew all the remarkable facts which clearly
prove that the imbecility of the Government was incomparable and that
the Marshal was very unfortunate in being called to conduct a business
both ill-devised and ill-prepared; so he needed no justification in my
eyes, but I was interested to hear full details of the scene with the
Dauphin, of which I knew nothing and the words and gestures of which
pass the powers of imagination.[31] The reading was interrupted by
various reflections and was further prolonged for the reason that the
Marshal reads slowly and continually stammers and hums and haws. His
delivery is extremely laboured.
[31] This lamentable scene, the sad event which marked the last
evening which Charles X. and the Dauphin spent at Saint-Cloud, is
related at length in the memoirs of the Duc de Raguse, to which
reference is here made (Vol. VIII. Book XXIV.), and is partly
reproduced in a book by M. Imbert de Saint-Amand, entitled The
_Duchesse de Berry and the Revolution of 1830_, which appeared in
1880.
I then went with my brother-in-law, Schulenberg, to dine with the
Countess Nandine Karolyi at Hitzinger, a village near Schönbrunn. I
was by no means anxious to go but as she had been so kind as to ask
me, I could not refuse. She lives in one half of a charming cottage
which belongs to Charles von Hügel, the traveller whose infatuation
for Princess Metternich drove him to spend seven years in the East. On
his return he built this house and has filled it with curiosities from
India. He lives in one half of the house and Nandine in the other. It
is prettily situated, surrounded with flowers and looks quite English.
I was by no means delighted with the dinner. The mistress of the house
is eccentric, an exaggeration of the Vienna type, and the gentlemen
about her corresponded. I went away as soon as possible and spent an
hour in farewell talk with Princess Louise of Schönburg.
_Vienna, June 29, 1841._--Yesterday at night-fall I went with my
sisters, Schulenberg and Count Haugwitz to the Volksgarten where the
whole of Vienna does its best to enjoy the dew amid clouds of tobacco
smoke. Fireworks and Strauss were the amusements provided. One
positive refreshment was the ices, of which an enormous quantity
seemed to be consumed. The population of Vienna are quiet,
well-dressed, entirely respectable and very mixed, for in these
amusements the aristocracy take part. There was no sign of a
policeman, nor were any needed.
_Vienna, June 30, 1841._--I am leaving Vienna this evening. The heat
continues to be extreme and will make my journey very unpleasant. I
shall not send off this letter until I reach Dresden; correspondence
is more certain outside the Austrian states. I do not mind people
reading my expressions of affections, but my impressions and opinions
are another matter. I trust therefore that I have been prudent in this
respect during my stay here.
_Tabor, July 1, 1841._--I left Vienna yesterday at seven o'clock in
the evening. In the afternoon I had a visit from Prince Metternich. He
was kind and confidential, and the idea that he has deteriorated is
quite wrong. Perhaps he expresses himself more slowly and vaguely
than he used to do, but his ideas are in no way confused, his opinions
are firm and decided, he remains moderate and gentle in temper, and in
short is entirely himself. He strongly advised me to return by way of
Johannisberg, whither he will go from Königswart in the month of
August and stay until September. His wife urged me to do the same and
showed me the utmost kindness. Her beauty strongly appeals to me,
though it is a style often spoilt by harshness of voice, common
manners or vulgar language. She is generally disliked at Vienna to my
astonishment, for I think she is good-hearted though unpolished.
Several people kindly came to say good-bye at the last moment. My
sisters, with Schulenburg and Count Maurice Esterhazy, who is the
smallest and liveliest of the family, accompanied me two leagues
beyond Vienna, where my travelling carriage was waiting for me. Count
Esterhazy is the same who was at Paris; he was afterwards attached to
the Austrian embassy at Berlin, where I last saw him. This post he
left a few days before I came to Vienna, as he is going to Italy,
where his mother is now lying ill. He is a close friend of my
sisters', somewhat malicious like all very small men, but a pleasant
talker and far more civilised and in better taste than people
generally are at Vienna, especially the men, who are usually very
ignorant. On the whole I prefer Berlin to Vienna society. At Vienna
people are richer and more high and mighty and their naturalness is
affected: at Berlin I admit there is more affectation, but there is
much more culture and intellectualism. Life at Vienna is extremely
free and easy: people do anything they please without being regarded
as eccentric, but though no one is surprised at his neighbour's doings
slander is as commonly current as elsewhere, and I am ready to assert
that a false good nature of a very dangerous kind is prevalent. At
Berlin life is more formal and more attention is paid to a certain
decorum: the consequence is some stiffness, but words are more
carefully weighed, and as there is less reason for backbiting there is
more real kindliness. Personally I have nothing but praise for the
hospitality of either town and remain entirely grateful to them both.
I was especially struck at Vienna by the manner in which men and women
commonly address one another by their baptismal names; however slight
acquaintanceship is, provided people belong to the same clique, family
names disappear, and to use them is thought a mark of bad taste. Women
are constantly kissing one another and invariably upon the lips, which
I think horrible. Men continually kiss ladies' hands, and at first
sight society seems to be composed of brothers and sisters. Perhaps
twenty people in speaking to me or in reference to me would say
"Dorothea;" those less familiar would say "Duchess Dorothea;" the most
formal would use the term "dear Duchess," but no one would say
"Madame" or "Madame la Duchesse." I am astonished that anything
remains of my hands; and my cheeks, which I try to substitute for my
lips, have suffered a perfect martyrdom. The coquetry of the women at
Vienna is obvious, nor is any attempt made to disguise it, though the
churches are full and the confessionals besieged; but there is no
appearance of real devotion, and the sincere and active faith of the
Royal Family has no influence upon society, which displays its
independence by habitual opposition to the Court.
_Dresden, July 3, 1841._--I have now returned to my starting point of
a month ago. I came here from Tabor without stopping, except for
dinner at Prague and for lunch this morning at Teplitz. I am never
wearied by the country between Teplitz and Dresden. It is Saxony in
all its beauty, rich and smiling and pleasantly united to the strength
and wildness of Bohemia. It is the only picturesque part of the
journey between Vienna and Dresden apart from Prague and its
neighbourhood.
At the gates of Teplitz I saw a procession of pilgrims descending from
a chapel upon a hill with rosaries in their hands, singing psalms; it
was a touching sight and I should like to have gone up to worship in
my turn but the approach of a storm obliged me to continue my journey
without stopping.
I am reading the _History of the Life, the Writings and the_
_Doctrine of Luther_ by M. Audin. It is the most learned, impartial,
interesting and Catholic study of the subject that I have come across.
As I left Vienna I finished the _Life of the Saint Dominic_ by the
Abbé Lacordaire, which is written with a view to effect and pleased me
only moderately.
I hear in the inn that M. Thiers has been expected for the last three
days. I hope he will not arrive until after my departure to-morrow. I
propose to reach Königsbruck this evening and to stay a few days with
my nieces.
_Königsbruck, July 5, 1841._--I reached here yesterday at five
o'clock. At Dresden I had a call from Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar who
was staying in the same hotel as myself. He was coming from Berlin
where he had been spending a fortnight with his niece, the Princess of
Prussia.
In the same hotel I also met Countess Strogonoff, formerly Countess
Ega, whom I had seen last year at Baden and who then pleased me
greatly. She told me that as soon as I had left Baden, Madame de
Nesselrode spent every evening until she started for Paris at the
public gaming-table, playing Benacet, opposite the old Elector of
Hesse, and that she lost or won during the evening with the same
imperturbable calmness the twenty louis which she had made her limit.
What a strange person!
At Dresden during mass I saw the widow of Prince Maximilian of Saxony,
who had returned from Rome where she married her chamberlain, a
certain Count Rossi, a cousin of the husband of Fraulein Sontag. She
is obliged to return to Dresden from time to time under the terms of
her marriage settlement. Her husband accompanies her and continues to
act as chamberlain. She seems to me to be neither young nor pretty,
well made nor fashionable; he is a tall man with an imperial beard and
the air peculiar to the husband of a princess.
I also found here the Count of Hohenthal, his wife and Fanny, my two
nieces, who received me most affectionately and were full of their
travels in Italy. The weather is beautiful and the peace and silence
of the country are delightful. I have also found letters from Paris.
M. Molé writes four pages which seem to contain no news except that
Madame de Lieven reigns and governs at Paris, to say the least of her.
The Duchesse d'Albuféra tells me that the Princesse de Lieven is
giving little musical evenings to bring out her niece, Countess
Annette Apponyi. The princesse is resuming all the tastes of her youth
and happiness. It will be fortunate if the powers of M. Guizot would
also revive the destinies of France and make them flourish.
The Duchesse de Montmorency writes to say that the Vicomtesse de
Chateaubriand has gone to take up her duties with the Duchesse de
Berry. Would any one have suspected that she was a court lady? She has
sought this distinction long ago. She took with her the nurse of the
Duc de Bordeaux, the one who was only able to nurse him for three
days. It is a strange journey and I do not understand the meaning of
it.
The Duc de Noailles writes to say that in view of Eastern events
brought about by the successive revolt of the provinces, a movement at
Paris is being prepared similar to that which took place to meet the
case of Greece some years ago. A committee is being formed for the
relief, that is to say, for the revolt of the Christian populations in
the East. This committee is composed of men from the Left and the
Centre; the Legitimists have been asked to join and have been offered
the presidency which would be given to the Duc de Noailles himself.
The question has been complicated by the Royalist party which also
wished to act in the same direction but tactlessly began upon too
small a scale.
My son, M. de Dino, informs me that a recent decree issued by the
Archbishop of Paris, orders that there are to be no doors in the
middle of the confessionals. This is said to be thought very
ridiculous. It is a somewhat humiliating precaution for the clergy and
is also quite superfluous, for the sides of the confessional boxes are
shut in so that the penitents and the confessors are always separated
and when the middle is closed the confessor can listen to the
penitents without distraction. Mgr. Affre can devise nothing that is
not ridiculous.
_Königsbruck, July 6, 1841._--I am grieved to hear the news which has
just reached me of the death of the Queen of Hanover;[32] another
figure of my London life thus disappears.
[32] The Queen of Hanover was the Duchess of Cumberland, by birth
a Princess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz. She died on June 29, after
suffering for three months from a form of consumption.
The Duchesse d'Albuféra writes that the Princesse de Lieven is leading
quite a pastoral life in her little house at Beauséjour, where she
spends the day. She has a little garden which she waters with little
watering-pots which M. Guizot was seen to bring to her door in the Rue
Saint-Florentin. He goes to dinner at Beauséjour every day. At the
funeral of M. Garnier-Pagès, the radical deputy, the crowd was so
great that the procession extended from the Bastille to the door of
Saint-Denis. The speeches delivered over the tomb were all full of
revolutionary and religious maxims in the style of _The Words of a
Believer_ by M. de Lamennais. The editor of the _Peuple_ wrote, "We
offer you our regrets, but these are not enough, we offer you also our
promises!" Such is my delightful news from Paris.
_Hohlstein, July 11, 1841._--I left my nieces the day before yesterday
after dinner and arrived here yesterday morning.[33] I crossed the
whole of Lusatia which is a fine province. The weather had cleared up
but as soon as I arrived here the rain began furiously; it has rained
all night and is now falling heavily, to the detriment of the fine
view which I ought to have from my bedroom windows which look upon the
Silesian mountains.
[33] Hohlstein was the estate of the Princess of Hohenzollern
Hechingen, by birth a Princess of Courlande.
_Hohlstein, July 13, 1841._--Yesterday I took advantage of several
intermissions in the bad weather to visit the park, the kitchen garden
and the surroundings. It is all pretty and well kept and sometimes
picturesque. I have a letter from Madame d'Albuféra from which I
extract the following: "Madame de Flahaut is starting to-morrow with
her daughters for Ems. She is deeply grieved concerning the talk
about her husband. Yesterday she was in tears at Beauséjour while
visiting Princesse de Lieven. It does not seem to be entirely settled
whether they will go to Vienna or not. There is a general idea that M.
Bresson will be appointed to Vienna and that the Marquis of Dalmatia
will take his place at Berlin. Turin and Madrid will then remain
vacant. Madame de Flahaut told me that if either of them were offered
to her husband, she would be inclined to refuse but that the decision
would lie with him. I know that his friends would advise him to
accept. He is staying at Paris to see the end of the business and
hides his agitation better than his wife; but he is plainly ill at
ease for several reasons. Naples is out of the question, as it is said
that the King will not have them there.
"Events in England increase the depression of Madame de Flahaut. The
triumph of the Tories appears certain and the overthrow of the Whigs
inevitable. The Granvilles are at La Jonchère[34] awaiting the result.
Lord Granville cannot move and can only speak with difficulty, but his
mental powers are unimpaired."
[34] La Jonchère was the property of M. Thiers at La Celle
Saint-Cloud.
_Hohlstein, July 21, 1841._--The newspapers give official news of the
date when the plenipotentiaries of the five Courts signed the joint
protocol referring to the East.[35] I imagine that this will enable
the final rearrangement of the French diplomatic body to be made.
[35] This protocol, which concluded the Egyptian question, was
signed on July 13, 1841, by England, Austria, Prussia, Russia,
and Turkey. The Straits Convention, which was signed at the same
time, added the signature of the French plenipotentiary to the
rest.
I have a long letter from M. de Chalais which speaks only of his
private life and gives me no news except that the Princesse de Lieven
has written a long letter to the Duc de Noailles asking that she might
be allowed to appoint him her executor in her will, as she says that
she has an intuition that she will die at Paris. Meanwhile she seems
to be excellently well.
M. Royer-Collard writes as follows in reference to the speech before
the Academy of M. de Sainte-Aulaire: "I must say a word concerning the
reception of Sainte-Aulaire; the newspapers flatter him; the audience
was very brilliant but the speech of the new member colourless and
cold. M. Roger's speech was more successful than it deserved to be; so
much the worse for the public." M. Royer-Collard also told me that
after paying a visit to Versailles with his daughter, he had another
attack of the fever which nearly carried him off a few years ago at
Châteauvieux. It is obvious that his system then received a shock from
which it will never recover.
_Günthersdorf, July 27, 1841._--I left Hohlstein the day before
yesterday in the morning and reached Sagan at two o'clock. After
dinner I went to the castle to select certain family portraits of
which I wish copies to be made for Rochecotte. I then went to the
church to decide the place and the form of the little monument which
is now to be erected in memory of my father. It is time that this was
done, as he has now been buried in the church for forty years, and
apart from tradition no one knows the place of his burial. Yesterday I
went at an early hour to the little church which is picturesquely
situated at the end of the park of Sagan, in the vault of which the
remains of my late sister have been laid. Mass was said there at my
request for the repose of her soul. The church was filled with
beautiful flowers and rare plants brought by the castle gardener; a
considerable number of people were also present. I then set out for
Deutsch-Wartenberg which belongs to me and came on here in the evening
with Herr von Wolff who is staying for two or three days, to meet Herr
von Gersdorf whom I expect. They have to settle between them the legal
questions which have arisen between my sons and my sister
Hohenzollern, concerning the allodial claims of the latter to the
greater part of Sagan.
I found that some improvements had been made here; the garden is well
kept and everything perfectly neat.
I have several letters. Madame de Lieven writing under date July 15
tells me that Queen Victoria is paying a round of visits to the Whig
Ministers, a proceeding which is thought very inadvisable in the
present situation and that no one would be astonished if she began a
_coup d'état_ rather than endure a Tory Ministry. It is also possible
that to avoid Sir Robert Peel she may summon Lord Liverpool, a measure
not likely to meet with success. It is said that the eldest son of
Lady Jersey is to marry the daughter of Sir Robert Peel; that Lady
Palmerston is quite revolutionary in her sentiments and more furious
than any one because she is obliged to leave the Ministry. All these
rumours are extremely vague.
The Duchesse de Montmorency tells me of the marriage of Mlle.
Vandermarck, daughter of the stockbroker, with the Comte de Panis,
owner of the fine château of Borelli near Marseilles.
_Günthersdorf, July 31, 1841._--A letter from M. Bresson from Berlin
tells me that he is expecting General de Rumigny to stay from the 15th
to the 20th of August, as the King of Prussia has invited him to the
manœuvres in Silesia and at Berlin. He tells me that M. and Madame
Thiers are to arrive at Berlin at the same time. The Duc de Noailles
writes that Lady Clanricarde will spend the next winter at Paris and
that Lord Cowley's nomination in place of Lord Granville is expected.
He adds that the little Rachel has just arrived at Paris; that only
Marshal Soult's triumph in England could be compared to hers; that he
had letters from her in London in which she showed the utmost delight
over her success, though remarkable to relate, her head was not turned
by it. I think that the Duc's head would be less steady under such
circumstances.
_Günthersdorf, August 1, 1841._--Madame de Perponcher tells me that
the King of Hanover is quite overwhelmed by the death of his wife,
over whom he seems to have watched most admirably. For a long time he
was under a delusion concerning the state of her health and when the
doctors told him that there was no hope, he was completely crushed.
However, as soon as he recovered his spirits he went to the Queen and
spoke of her religious duties as well as a Catholic could have done.
The Queen heard the terrible news with the utmost firmness and
received the communion with the King, her daughter, the Duchess of
Anhalt and poor Prince George. The despair of the latter was
heartrending; as he could not see his mother, he could not be
persuaded that she was dead and insisted that he should be allowed to
touch her body. As soon as the father put the mother's cold hand in
that of her son, the poor blind man was overcome with a kind of
madness. He has since been sent to the seaside. These details are
cruel and really most heartrending.
_Günthersdorf, August 6, 1841._--My sisters have been here since the
first of the month and seem to enjoy themselves in spite of the
terrible weather.
Yesterday I had a letter from M. Bresson who says: "There is no
positive news from Paris: M. de Flahaut has refused Turin and declines
to commit himself concerning the offer of Madrid. He says that he
maintains the fact that Vienna was offered to him, which M. Guizot
will not admit. Whether it was offered or not, he is doing his utmost
to secure it and Madame de Flahaut is watching from Ems for the
arrival of Prince and Princess Metternich at the Johannisberg. I
remain in an attitude of expectation and am resolved only to leave
Berlin for Vienna or London.
"Herr von Werther has resigned the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. His
place will be taken by Count Maltzan, but who will replace him at
Vienna is not yet known. The King has given Werther the Order of the
Black Eagle and has made the title of baron hereditary in his family;
hitherto it had been only a personal title. Arnim of Paris has been
made a count.
"The Toulouse disturbance is causing me more anxiety;[36] no other
town in France has followed this bad example. The July festival has
been celebrated in an orderly manner. The whole of the loan will not
be required; the financial deficiencies are being repaired and we
shall find that France has recovered her strength and reorganised her
military power. My ardent desire is that all this may make for peace."
[36] On July 9 and 10 the inhabitants of Toulouse were disturbed
by the question of the census. The agitation seemed to have died
away when a serious rising broke out upon the 12th. Large bodies
of people marched about the streets, and barricades were raised,
and the 13th was a very threatening day. The town was saved by
the wisdom of the temporary mayor, M. Arzac, who was able, by
means of tact, to restore tranquillity.
Such is the prose, or if you prefer it, the poetry of M. Bresson.
_Günthersdorf, August 7, 1841._--I have a letter from M. Molé who
complains of his health and refers to the disturbance at Toulouse and
the general condition of France with as much gloominess as M. Bresson
showed satisfaction in the letter which I quoted yesterday.
The Duchesse de Montmorency writes saying that Mgr. Affre prohibited
M. Genoude from preaching. The latter then went to learn the reason
for this prohibition: the Bishop replied that it was due to his
anti-governmental opinions; M. Genoude angrily replied that if the
Bishop persisted in maintaining his prohibition, he would print the
whole of Mgr. Affre's writings of a few years ago, in opposition to
the July monarchy, the original signed documents being in his
possession. The Archbishop thereupon relented and M. Genoude will
preach. This is an attitude truly worthy of a bishop! The incident
naturally induces me to draw comparisons with the past and strengthens
my conviction that Mgr. de Quélen was the last real Archbishop of
Paris. The present age seems unable to produce any great or noble
lives. There is a dead level of hopeless mediocrity.
_Günthersdorf, August 16, 1841._--As I write this date I cannot but
remember with deep regret an anniversary which will always be dear and
sacred to me; this is the day of Saint Hyacinthe, the patron saint of
the late Mgr. de Quélan. I am certain that mass is being said for him
at the Sacré Cœur. For many years a shrub was taken to him from me on
this day. Two years ago, when he was still ill at Conflans, he called
my servant into his room, who then brought him an orange tree and
asked Madame de Gramont to write a note saying that of all the flowers
he had received mine had given him the greatest pleasure. Now I can
do no more than pray to him in heaven. I often think that he is united
with Him to whom he has so often prayed himself, and that both
intercede before God on my behalf, to gain me the blessing of a good
death, and especially a Christian life, for rarely does the one come
to pass without the other; and if God sometimes shows His mercy at a
late hour, we have no reason to be idle or to omit any effort to
deserve it. These true and heartfelt words I often repeat to myself,
but do not derive a full measure of comfort from them. The worldly
spirit, the old enemy, is difficult to eradicate.
At Wartenberg I inspected the Protestant school. Last year I was
present at the examination of the Catholic children, and I can say,
without prejudice, that the latter school is infinitely superior to
the former.
The post brought me a letter from the Court Marshal, giving me an
official announcement from their Majesties of their proposal to pass
here on the 31st of this month.
_Günthersdorf, August 18, 1841._--I have a letter from M. Bresson. He
had announced his visit to me long ago, and now asks me to transfer it
to the 31st of this month, so that he may stay here on that day to see
the King and leave on the 1st. He tells me that when the King learnt
of his proposal to come here, he told him at his last audience that he
hoped he might meet him at my house; he also tells me that the
diplomatic nominations will not be made until the Tory Ministry comes
into office, which the Queen of England is unable to avoid.
He adds that M. and Madame Thiers are at Berlin and are arousing keen
curiosity; crowds gather as they pass. M. Thiers seems anxious not to
give his journey any political meaning and is showing great
circumspection. He has asked to see the King. M. Bresson was awaiting
at the time when he wrote to me an answer to this request from Sans
Souci.
_Günthersdorf, August 20, 1841._--Yesterday I took a long drive
through my estates on the other side of the Oder. The weather was very
fine and this morning is also quite clear. I trust it may be as fine
for the King's visit.
_Günthersdorf, August 21, 1841._--In Germany birthdays are even more
important festivals than baptismal days,[37] so since yesterday,
compliments and bouquets have been coming in. All the Catholic priests
came yesterday to offer their good wishes and have promised to say
mass for me this morning. Yesterday evening all the masters of the
Catholic schools, of which there are twelve upon my estates, came
together, though some of them live twelve leagues away, to sing to me
in detachments with the best pupils of their schools; simple and
touching verses very well written and thought out, with no
instrumental accompaniment; it was very pretty and kind; any mark of
affection is always deeply felt by me and I was therefore greatly
touched.
[37] The Duchesse de Talleyrand was born on August 21, 1793.
_Günthersdorf, August 22, 1841._--Yesterday I had a numerous company
to dinner and took them to the shooting competition arranged in the
pheasant preserves. All the gamekeepers, farmers and servants were
there. There was music in the copses, flowers everywhere and a
beautiful sunny day. I offered three prizes, a sporting rifle, a
hunting knife, and a game bag. The two Prefects in whose department I
have property, came in after dinner and took tea. It was so fine that
in spite of nightfall, the company did not separate until my bedtime.
_Günthersdorf, August 25, 1841._--Yesterday I had a letter from the
Princesse de Lieven, the chief news of which is as follows: "It is
said that the society of Vienna will receive M. Bresson very coldly.
Prince Metternich has hinted as much here. He has no great liking for
any of the competitors for this post, and less liking for Bresson than
for the others. Apponyi says so without constraint. I think that Lord
Cowley will take Lord Granville's place. Lady Palmerston is greatly
distressed at losing Downing Street:[38] Lord Palmerston puts a better
face upon the matter; his address to the electors of Tiverton marks
the end of his career in French opinion. Much ill feeling on the
matter remains here and we part with him upon distinctly bad terms."
[38] Where the Foreign Office is situated.
I propose to leave Silesia in a week from to-day and should like to
see my dear Touraine again on October 1. The local newspapers contain
no news except that the King received M. Thiers, not at Sans Souci,
but at Berlin in a private audience which lasted twenty minutes. M.
Thiers wore his academician's dress and the orders of Belgium and
Spain. Throughout his journey he has been the object of curiosity
which was rather keen than kindly, and if he understood German he
would have heard more than one caustic remark.
I have made arrangements with my gardener and an architect for the
decorations for the day when the King is to stay here. The decorations
will consist of numerous garlands, pyramids, festoons and arches of
dahlias of every colour which will decorate the King's path from the
avenue to the house. There is nothing magnificent or imposing about
this place: there is no view, but it is fresh and green; the trees are
beautiful and the garden well kept. The house is large but not
striking, without architectural beauty and surmounted by a heavy ugly
roof, so that only by means of flowers can any daintiness be given to
the whole. The hall is to be turned into an orangery and, in short,
the whole will appear in holiday though unpretentious dress, which
will at any rate show my good intentions.
_Günthersdorf, August 30, 1841._--My niece, Hohenthal, arrived here
yesterday. She told me that Madame Thiers had been so ill at Dresden
that she had been taken from her hotel to the doctor's house. M.
Thiers told some one who repeated it to my niece, that his audience
with the King of Prussia was short and cold and that the King talked
of nothing but Art; his attitude seems to have been well advised.
General de Rumigny, on the contrary, is most kindly treated.
_Günthersdorf, August 31, 1841._--Yesterday after dinner I set out
with my nephew Biron and we went to Grünberg to await their Majesties
at the house of the Queen's chief lady, who had gone in advance of
her. A prodigious number of triumphal arches, deputations, addresses
and cavalcades made their Majesties so late, that they did not reach
their resting-place until half-past ten at night, though this hour
was very suitable for the illuminations and fireworks at our chief
centre. Many of the principal landowners in the district were there.
The King and Queen first received me alone and then the rest of the
company was admitted. Their Majesties wished to keep me to supper, but
as I still have a great deal to arrange here, I asked permission to
withdraw and reached home at half-past one in the morning. Fortunately
it was a beautiful moonlight night.
I found General de Rumigny at Grünberg. He is following the King to
the manœuvres and will arrive here this morning. The weather is
magnificent and I should like to kneel down and send up a prayer of
thanks to the sun for his kindness.
_Günthersdorf, September 1, 1841._--Yesterday passed off very well.
Their Majesties were in excellent spirits and most kind. The weather
was perfect, flowers were abundant and there was a good lunch suitably
served; the population in holiday attire came in large numbers and
behaved excellently. I drove after the King with my nephew to the
first village where horses were changed. This village is on my estate
and His Majesty was again greeted with a triumphal arch by my keepers
and with country receptions of every kind. The King, who did not know
that I was following, as I had not told him, was quite surprised to
see me. He got down from his carriage and made me take his place as
the Queen wished to embrace me once more. In short they seem to have
been quite satisfied, which is a great pleasure to me.
General de Rumigny started immediately after the King, M. Bresson
after dinner and the Birons after tea. My niece, Hohenthal, went away
last night and so I am here alone.
_Günthersdorf, September 2, 1841._--I have decided to start this
evening and before I go I am designing a new addition to the garden,
which will make it truly magnificent, and I have commissioned the
architect to replace the heavy rotten roof with gables and a flat
roof.
_Berlin, September 3, 1841._--I reached here after covering fifty-four
French leagues in seventeen hours. In this country where one cannot
arrange for relays, this is excellent travelling.
M. Bresson told me that no one could be more surly or disagreeable
than Madame Thiers: she has been ill, or pretended to be ill, and
declared that she would die if she stayed any longer in Germany, which
seemed to her like Siberia.
_Berlin, September 5, 1841._--Yesterday I went to the Werthers who are
soon to exchange their diplomatic post for one at Court. Werther
himself, like a good courtier, suggested this change at the proper
time and has thus spared himself possible mortification and obtained
an excellent post. Frau von Werther and Josephine regret the change.
_Berlin, September 6, 1841._--I am going to entrust myself to the
railway as far as Potsdam. At Potsdam I shall dress and dine with
Princess Charles of Prussia at Klein Glienicke at the gates of the
town. I shall then resume my journey and spend the night in my
carriage in order to reach Leipzig to-morrow morning. There I shall
find the Hohenthals who are bringing my niece Fanny Biron, whom I have
promised to take with me to France. A winter in Saxony is thought to
be too much for her health, which is delicate.
_Leipzig, September 6, 1841._--I left my Berlin hotel yesterday
morning. I had chocolate with Madame de Perponcher and learnt from her
the sad news of the sudden death of my young and charming neighbour,
Princess Adelaide Carolath, who was married under the most dramatic
circumstances a year ago to her cousin and died in a few hours of an
attack of suppressed measles. She was quite an ideal character and I
have been deeply affected by this sudden death.
From Berlin to Potsdam I travelled with Baron von Arnim, master of the
ceremonies, who was also dining at Glienicke. The Princess drove me
round the park in her pony-chaise. After dinner I went for a walk and
then said good-bye.
_Weimar, September 9, 1841._--We parted from the Hohenthals at Leipzig
yesterday morning. The two sisters were much depressed at their
separation; however, the open air and the pretty country through which
we have been travelling enabled Fanny to recover her spirits.
Here I found a letter from the Princess of Prussia who is staying at
Kreuznach on the Rhine and asks me to go and see her while I am at
Johannisberg. I shall certainly do so, though it will prolong my
journey by an additional day.
_Frankfort-on-Main, September 11, 1841._--I arrived here this morning
in fine weather. My niece proposes to spend a few days with her former
governess at Bonn, to see her brother who is in garrison there and is
now ill. We shall meet again at Mayence on the 15th. I am starting for
Johannisberg to-morrow.
_Frankfort, September 12, 1841._--Yesterday at tea-time Count Maltzan
came in. He is taking the baths at Kreuznach and came over to see his
niece Fanny. He is very pleased with his position as Minister of
Foreign Affairs. I doubt if he will suit the King of Prussia in the
long run, for he is vehement, irascible and impetuous, and though the
King is angelically good he is very quick tempered. However, it is no
business of mine. The Count is a kind and pleasant drawing-room
talker, and when he has got rid of his habit of gossiping, which he
contracted at Vienna, he will be a pleasant person, except for those
who have to transact business with him.
_Johannisberg, September 13, 1841._--I arrived here yesterday at two
o'clock, the weather being extremely hot. I had known this place in
past years and few changes have been made. There is an extensive and
beautiful view, though I prefer the view from Rochecotte, which is
similar, because of the forest which crowns my house, and also because
of the vegetation along the Loire and the hillsides opposite me, which
make the valley grander and more beautiful. Here the vines cover
everything. The house is very large and the rooms spacious but
somewhat poorly furnished. I was most kindly received, not only by
the master and mistress of the house but by many other acquaintances:
my cousin, Paul Medem, who would as soon go back to Stuttgart as
Minister as to Vienna to the post of Chargé d'Affaires; Tatitscheff,
who is almost entirely blind, and Neumann who is returning to London
to-morrow.
I have no news; Prince Metternich says there is none. He is very
pleased to hear of the Whig downfall in England and very well disposed
to M. Guizot; he is sorry that the Duc de Montebello is not to be sent
to him at Vienna. He has very humble letters from M. de Flahaut, and
begins to think that a minister who writes confidential platitudes
beforehand should be easier to manage than any other. However, nothing
is as yet officially known concerning the movements of the French
diplomatic body. Apponyi and his family are expected to-day on their
way from Paris. They are to stay here before proceeding to Hungary on
leave. Let us hope that they will bring some positive news concerning
the nomination of the French Ambassador to Vienna.
_Johannisberg, September 14, 1841._--I have accomplished my excursion
to Kreuznach, which occupied the whole of yesterday: I did not return
till half-past eight in the evening and was obliged to cross the Rhine
in the darkness, which I did not find particularly pleasant, in spite
of the beauty of the scene; the lights of the steamboats from the
banks reflected in the river, and the masses of the rocks increased by
the darkness of the night made an imposing scene which I only half
enjoyed as I was somewhat afraid. At Kreuznach I spent several hours
with the Princess of Prussia who was as kind as ever. I was sorry to
find her considerably changed, uneasy concerning her health, and tired
by taking the waters, from which so far she had experienced no other
result. I dined with her, and Count Maltzan was present.
Prince Metternich yesterday received an official intimation that M. de
Flahaut had been appointed to the Vienna embassy; he is not greatly
pleased at this news. The other changes in the French diplomatic body
were not then known.
M. de Bourquency is very fashionable here; though the Prince does not
know him personally, he was full of praises of his behaviour at
London; at the same time he added that a diplomatist, who was also a
contributor to the _Journal des Debáts_, was one of the curiosities of
the age.
_Johannisberg, September 15, 1841._--Yesterday I did not go out all
day though the weather was beautiful. I was very glad to rest;
moreover, so much time is spent here in receiving a succession of
callers that country life properly so called is impossible.
_Mayence, September 16, 1841._--I left Johannisberg yesterday and was
much touched by all the kindness of the master and mistress of the
house, and very glad that I had been able to pay them a visit. I
arrived here in good time, and found Frau von Binzer, Paul Medem and
Baron Zedlitz awaiting me. The baron, who is a well-known poet, has
now taken the place of Gentz with Prince Metternich on account of some
political publication. While I was dining with these people, three
cannon shots announced the steamboat by which the Princess of Prussia
was travelling up the Rhine on her way to Weimar through Mannheim. The
boat stopped here for ten minutes, and as it put in some thirty yards
from the hotel I went to spend these ten minutes on board with the
Princess; she was not expecting me, and showed the utmost satisfaction
at this small attention.
The evening was warm and beautiful and we drove round the town, the
outskirts of which are pretty, and went to see the statue of Gutenberg
by Thorwaldsen, which is a handsome piece of work. On our return we
heard that a courier from the Rothschilds had arrived from Paris,
bringing the news of a small rising in Paris during which a pistol
shot had been fired at the Duc d'Aumale, who, however, was not
hit.[39]
[39] The revolutionary factions which were still seething,
pursued their plan of destroying the Royal Family. On September
4, 1841, a pistol-shot was fired at the Duc d'Aumale as he was
going down a street of the Faubourg Saint Antoine at the head of
his regiment, the 17th Light Horse. The horse of
Lieutenant-Colonel Levaillant, who was by the side of the Prince
was killed by the ball.
_Metz, September 18, 1841._--I arrived here yesterday evening in a
torrential downpour of rain, which makes travelling extremely
unpleasant. At the hotel I found General d'Outremont, who was in
command at Tours for a long time. He is at Metz for inspection and
asked to see me. He told me that the disturbances at Clermont were
even more serious than those at Toulouse, in fact the newspaper that
some one has lent me regards them as very serious.
_Paris, September 20, 1841._--I have now returned to the great
Babylon. The good and excellent Barante was awaiting my arrival. He
has spent the evening here and given me the following news: the
disturbances in Clermont seem to have been of the most serious
character, a real Jacquerie and the most disquieting demonstration
that has taken place in France since 1830.[40] Barante who has been
absent for three and a half years, was astonished and horrified by the
general degradation, especially in political morality, which is
obvious here. He wittily said that he had not yet come across a man in
Paris who had a good word for another. He proposes to spend six weeks
at his house in Auvergne and will then stay here for the winter and
not return to St. Petersburg till the spring. Sainte-Aulaire started
forty-eight hours ago for his new post in London. His wife will not
follow him until February and Madame de Flahaut will not go to Vienna
until she has married her daughter, Emilie, for whom no suitor has yet
appeared.
[40] The census at Clermont-Ferrand, as at Toulouse, was a
pretext for disturbances which broke out on September 13, 1841,
and continued the whole of the next day. The rioters attacked the
armed force, and many soldiers were killed or wounded; the gates
of the town were burnt, and a desperate combat ensued. It became
necessary to send considerable military forces to the town to
overwhelm the rebels and restore order.
Bertin the elder is dead and Bertin de Veaux is suffering from a fresh
attack.
_Paris, September 21, 1841._--Madame de Lieven routed me out yesterday
at a very early hour. She came to ask questions and told me nothing:
she can repeat to all Europe what I have told her concerning the
corner of the world known to me; I persisted in speaking kindly of
every one, which vexed her, and eventually told her that people were
thinking and saying everywhere that it was she who made and unmade
ambassadors, at which she was considerably embarrassed. Moreover, what
I was saying was quite true; it is believed everywhere and I think
with reason. She asked me to dinner on Thursday at Beauséjour.
Humboldt also called; I told him my Silesian news. Finally M. de
Salvandy arrived, delighted to be ambassador at Madrid and prepared to
return for the session of the Chamber of Deputies and to retain his
vice-presidency. My son, Valençay, came to dinner with me and told me
of the death of old Hottinger, which I am sorry to hear. He was a most
honourable man, deeply attached to the late M. de Talleyrand and a
friend of Labouchère. Many recollections of the past are disappearing
outwardly with terrible rapidity.
There is some small continuous agitation in the distant quarters of
Paris; I do not understand the reason for it; it seems to be the
normal state of Paris. A return to the great outbursts of 1831 would
be to restore our youth but not our strength, at a time when we should
grow old in order to grow greater. Fortunately the troops are in
excellent spirits everywhere, but are also required everywhere. The
authorities are determined and even anxious to make vigorous use of
them. This is all very well and it is fortunate for them that they
have the power and have no foreign war upon their hands in addition to
these internal disorders.
My letters from Auvergne[41] are not satisfactory. Pauline shall
certainly spend her winter in the south at Rome, if I do not go to
Nice. She is so anxious to see me that I am deciding for Nice, where I
shall go in the month of December and return in March. I hope the
change will also do my niece Fanny good. For me personally it is a
great sacrifice. I should like a long rest and to shut myself up at
Rochecotte, but Pauline is really ill and warmly expresses a desire to
see me, and her husband joins in supporting her wish with such
persistence that I cannot hesitate.
[41] The Marquis and Marquise de Castellane were now resident in
Auvergne at their estate of Aubijou.
_Paris, September 22, 1841._--Yesterday evening I went with my son
Valençay to Saint-Cloud, where I was able to see the whole Royal
Family together, including even their Belgian Majesties. All are
starting for Compiègne. The Queen had news of the Prince de Joinville
from Newfoundland. He is proceeding to Halifax.
_Paris, September 23, 1841._--Yesterday I saw the Abbé Dupanloup who
told me that he had in his possession a series of letters which had
passed between M. de Talleyrand and Cardinal Fesch, of the greatest
interest, and others which had passed between M. de Talleyrand and the
Chapter of Autun at the most difficult and troublesome time: he is the
better pleased by these discoveries as they confirm his opinion of M.
de Talleyrand and in general do him great credit.
Yesterday I went to dinner at Beauséjour with Madame de Lieven and
took Barante who was invited. The other guests were the Duc de
Noailles, M. Guizot and Mr. Bulwer. The conversation was animated and
varied, while Barante talked much more naturally and agreeably than
any one. Of news I heard none.
_Paris, September 26, 1841._--Yesterday I went to Champlâtreux with
Baron Humboldt. The weather was very unpleasant and spoilt our
excursion. I had known Champlâtreux long before: time has in no way
destroyed its beauty; on the contrary, for M. Molé has laid it out
magnificently. His improvements are excellent but should be continued
and especially the little panes of glass should be removed from the
windows in the large rooms, as they spoil the general effect. On the
whole it is a noble mansion, not a feudal, but a parliamentary
building, as befits a descendant of Mathieu Molé, of whom memorials
are everywhere to be found and very properly so. Particularly
excellent is the portrait of the grandmother, the daughter of Samuel
Bernard, in the large room; with her dowry M. Molé's grandfather built
the present residence. The park is beautiful and finely laid out,
while M. and Madame Molé are most kind and pleasant hosts.
The fortifications are in their most advanced state from Paris to
Saint-Denis, but for the moment the state of affairs is simply
frightful and looks like chaos.
Yesterday's event, for every day brings an event in this country, was
the truly scandalous acquittal of the _National_;[42] it must be
admitted that we cut a very poor figure here.
[42] The _National_ had published a correspondence concerning the
disturbances at Clermont, full of falsehoods and invectives
against the monarchy, and was accused of attacking the King's
majesty and brought to trial. On September 24, 1841, a verdict of
"Not Guilty" was passed by the jury of the Seine.
_Paris, October 1, 1841._--Yesterday I saw M. Guizot at my house. I
was anxious to say a word to him on behalf of Charles de Talleyrand
who, I hope, will soon join M. de Sainte-Aulaire at London. M. Guizot
told me that Lord Cowley would certainly be the ambassador at Paris
and his appointment is desired here. Sir Robert Peel refused court
appointments to Lord Wilton and the Duke of Beaufort, saying that
people with more depth of character and less doubtful morality were
required about the person of a young Queen. The Duke of Beaufort has
refused the embassy of St. Petersburg, and the Marquis of Londonderry
the embassy of Vienna. Both wished for Paris and were greatly
exasperated by their failure to secure it. They are now forming the
nucleus of a small opposition party.
M. Guizot gives the following explanation of the two somewhat unusual
nominations of M. de Flahaut as ambassador to Vienna and of M. de
Salvandy to Madrid: he says that he thought it advisable to deprive M.
Thiers of the one and M. Molé of the other. An admirable explanation
and of course entirely in the interests of the country!
_Courtalin, October 3, 1841._--I arrived here yesterday evening after
dining and sleeping with Madame Mollien. I am now in the midst of the
Montmorency family, many of whom are here.
_Rochecotte, October 7, 1841._--Once more I am back at my little
Palazzo where I arrived in the morning to my great delight and have
been most interested to see the arrangements and improvements that
have taken place during my absence.
_Rochecotte, October 12, 1841._--I have spent the last few days in
arranging my new library and putting the books in order. It is
a tiring business but has absorbed me greatly. My son and
daughter-in-law Dino have arrived and also my niece Fanny and her
governess, who spent a few days at Paris after my departure.
Yesterday I had a call from the Lady Superior of the Daughters of the
Cross from Chinon. She is the one who received the communion last
spring when I went to see her. She asserts that she began to get
better from the moment of my visit. She brought me some rosaries and
wished to pray in my chapel. She also brought me my lithographed
portrait from a room where she found it and persuaded me without much
trouble to add an orphan's place to the establishment which she
administers. I have thus secured the right of sending an orphan from
the village of Saint Patrice of which Rochecotte is a part, to receive
a Christian education from these excellent women, and I shall make my
choice to-day.
_Rochecotte, October 14, 1841._--The changed situation in Spain has
occupied all minds at Paris, for war has really broken out again. It
is a dreadful business and will end in the massacre of the innocent
Isabella.[43] Queen Christina is by no means anxious to leave Paris,
where she finds life pleasant. She is terrified by the idea of
returning to Spain of which she speaks with disgust and scorn. All who
know her regard her as clever, kind and courageous in time of need,
but naturally idle, pleasure-loving and devoting herself to amusement
as far as she can, as she is obliged to despair of ever playing a part
in politics again. She is very fond of her children by Muñoz and she
has little affection for her royal daughters.
[43] On October 7, 1841, at eight o'clock in the evening,
Generals Leon and Concho took advantage of the fact that a
regiment, formerly commanded by the latter, had arrived at
Madrid. As the regiment was devoted to him the two Generals
proposed to make a sudden attempt to carry off the Queen and the
Infanta. They went to the palace at the head of a squadron of the
Royal Guard, and while the regiment surrounded the palace they
mounted to the Queen's apartments; these were fortunately guarded
by halberdiers who offered a vigorous resistance, received them
with rifle-shots, and drove them back several times. Espartero
crushed this military plot, and had General Diego Leon shot on
October 15.
_Rochecotte, October 24, 1841._--Yesterday I had some letters
containing news. Madame de Lieven writes: "England is obviously
disturbed about the news from America and speculators in every country
are greatly alarmed. It is difficult to think that war will not be the
consequence of the complication in the case of Grogau[44] added to
that of MacLoed. The newspapers are full of Spain; attempts at
insurrection are everywhere a failure. Espartero does his duty in
punishing the guilty, but it is piteous to see the most cultured and
brilliant figures in Spain falling. The death of Diego Leon, the idol
of the army and of Madrid, made Queen Christina shed floods of tears.
I do not know how she will escape the consequence of Olozaga's
publications; she disavows them but no one believes her. Demands are
issued that France should send Christina back; the government
naturally refuses and will continue to offer hospitality to the niece
of the French Queen. I do not think that Salvandy will start
immediately for his post in Madrid: Sainte-Aulaire has secured the
favour of Aberdeen; Flahaut is starting for Vienna shortly."
[44] On September 20, 1841, Colonel James W. Grogau, a citizen of
the United States, was surprised during the night in the house of
a certain Mr. Brown within the frontiers of his own country, by
brigands in English uniform, who carried him away as a prisoner
to Montreal in Canada. Mr. Richard Jackson, the Governor of
Canada, immediately liberated him, and punished an English
officer, Mr. Jackson, of Colonel Dyer's regiment, who had taken
part in this attempt.
The Duchesse d'Albuféra tells me that the Duchesse de Nemours is with
child, to the great delight of the Queen and that the household at
Compiègne which has been so long disturbed seems to be in perfect
harmony.
_Rochecotte, October 25, 1841._--Yesterday I had
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