Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2)
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Title: Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2)
Author: Henri Mouhot
Editor: Charles Mouhot
Release date: August 11, 2014 [eBook #46559]
Most recently updated: October 24, 2024
Language: English
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Transcriber's Note
Superscript text is indicated by caret signs, e.g. 18^{TH}.
TRAVELS
IN THE
CENTRAL PARTS OF INDO-CHINA
(SIAM),
CAMBODIA, AND LAOS.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
THE KING AND QUEEN OF SIAM.]
TRAVELS
IN THE
CENTRAL PARTS OF INDO-CHINA
(SIAM),
CAMBODIA, AND LAOS,
DURING THE YEARS 1858, 1859, AND 1860.
BY THE LATE
M. HENRI MOUHOT,
FRENCH NATURALIST.
IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. I.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET,
1864.
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET,
AND CHARING CROSS.
DEDICATION.
TO THE LEARNED SOCIETIES OF ENGLAND, WHO HAVE FAVOURED WITH THEIR
ENCOURAGEMENT THE JOURNEY OF M. HENRI MOUHOT TO THE REMOTE LANDS OF
SIAM, LAOS, AND CAMBODIA.
I trust that the members of those scientific societies who kindly
supported and encouraged my brother in his travels and labours, will
receive favourably the documents collected by the family of the
intrepid traveller, whom death carried off in the flower of his age, in
the midst of his discoveries.
Had he been able to accomplish fully the end at which he aimed, it
would certainly have been to you that he would have offered the fruits
of his travels: he would have felt it his first duty to testify his
gratitude and esteem to the worthy representatives of science in
that great, free, and generous English nation who adopted him. Half
English by his marriage, M. Mouhot still preserved his love for his
own country: there, however, for various reasons he did not receive
the encouragement he anticipated, and it was on the hospitable soil
of England that he met with that aid and support, which not only
her scientific men, but the whole nation, delight in affording to
explorations in unknown countries, ever attended by perils and
hardships. The journal of the unfortunate traveller shows his feelings
of affection for the two countries which he loved equally, and his
devotion to science, art, and the progress of civilization.
I therefore feel it an imperative duty to express to you and to the
whole English nation the sentiments of gratitude to which this good and
loyal Frenchman so often gave utterance, while engaged in the work to
which he spontaneously devoted himself, and in which he was sustained
by your counsels and assistance.
Receive therefore from Madame Mouhot and myself, as a legacy left by
her dear husband and my affectionate brother, the expression of our
gratitude; and accept the work, left imperfect, it is true, but which
we hope will prove how much has been lost by the death of a brave
man, who, allied to the family of Mungo Park, met the same fate in
the East that that illustrious explorer did in Africa. M. Mouhot’s
premature end did not permit him to correct and arrange his journal,
which is an additional reason for claiming indulgence from you, whose
enlightened minds and generous benevolence will know how to appreciate
the circumstances under which this posthumous work sees the light.
CHARLES MOUHOT.
_Jersey, 1st December, 1862._
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
ONE OF THE SONS OF THE KING OF SIAM.]
PREFACE.
As will be seen, this work is compiled from the private letters of M.
Mouhot to his family and friends, and from his journal. I had also
the benefit of the paper destined by my brother for the Archæological
Society of London, on the interesting ruins of Ongcor. Among the
documents which, thanks to the active kindness of Sir R. Schomburgh,
British Consul at Bangkok, of Dr. Campbell, R.N., and of M. D’Istria,
French Consul, reached me as early as possible after my brother’s
death, I found valuable sketches and drawings, together with various
unfinished papers relative to his different scientific researches in
the countries he had visited and in districts which had only recently
been brought into notice by the advance of commerce, and by the
military expeditions which had been sent to the extreme East.
The family of M. Mouhot were divided in opinion as to the course to be
adopted with regard to these varied materials. Should they be kept in a
portfolio as a sacred but barren deposit, or should they be arranged in
the best manner possible and laid before the public?
After grave consideration they yielded to the representations of
friends of the deceased, and to myself was confided the painful but
interesting task of superintending the arrangement of the notes,
sketches, and documents for publication. I accordingly set about it at
once, under the first impressions of grief at the loss I had sustained,
and guided only by fraternal love, for I lay no claim to the title of
author. I have simply classified the masses of papers, the fruit of
four years’ travel, and added a few explanatory notes.
I have already stated the motives which induced me to dedicate this
work to the Savans of England, more especially to those with whom my
brother was connected through science or literature.
Let me give a short sketch of the work for which we claim the
indulgence of the public. I have first, preserving the chronological
order, divided the journal into chapters, inserting in their
appropriate places such portions of the private letters as served to
throw light on the subject. This forms the body of the work.
In an Appendix I have inserted the Chinese tales translated by the
author during his residence in Siam--some unfinished papers which
are only specimens of a zoological work which my brother intended
to publish--the descriptions of the principal entomological and
conchological specimens discovered by him, and which are now deposited
in the Museums of London and Paris--the Cambodian vocabulary, a proof
of his industry, of the variety of his knowledge, and of the care with
which he collected everything which might be useful to his successors
in the difficult path which he opened to them.
Lastly, I have collected the letters of my brother to his family and
other correspondents, together with some letters addressed to him,
a few of which were never even received, while others only reached
their destination after his death, or remained in the hands of friends
who were charged to deliver them. This correspondence tends, I think,
to display my brother’s character, the delicacy of his mind, and the
goodness of his heart, qualities which have been recognised by so many,
both during his life and after his death.
The engravings from his drawings will impart interest to the
descriptions of the ruins and vast buildings which he discovered in
the interior of Siam and Cambodia, testifying to an advanced state of
civilization in former times, and which, I venture to think, deserve
to be brought into notice. They will also familiarize the reader with
the manners, customs, and appearance of the country. My aim has been to
be useful to those who deign to read these pages; and, if fidelity be
merit in a book, I trust the reader will be satisfied.
Even should there be any errors in the numbers of the population, and
similar details concerning the little-known countries which my brother
traversed, I beg the reader to view them with indulgence, bearing in
mind that most of this journal was written in pencil, sent home from
a long distance, and some of it half effaced;--illegible, indeed, to
any one to whom his writing was not as well known as it was to Madame
Mouhot and myself, and who were not as intimate with the heart and
thoughts of the writer.
All these reasons induce me to reckon on the indulgence of the public.
The Memoir which follows was written by a friend in Holland. The
historical notice which I have thus introduced, appeared to me useful,
in order to give a clearer idea of the country which my brother has
contributed to make better known, and where he sealed with his death
his devotion to travel and scientific pursuits.
Let me add, in conclusion, that the family of M. Mouhot gladly embrace
the opportunity of thanking publicly all those who have given aid to
the traveller, and have testified their friendship for him; several are
mentioned in the course of the book by my brother himself, but others,
from whom he received equal kindness and support before embarking
on his perilous journey into unknown regions, have not perhaps been
noticed as they deserved. It was neither forgetfulness nor ingratitude
on his part; his death is his excuse.
CHARLES MOUHOT.
_Adelaide Lodge, Jersey,
January, 1863._
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. H. Rousseau, from a Photograph.
HENRI MOUHOT]
MEMOIR OF M. HENRI MOUHOT.
Alexander Henri Mouhot was born at Montbéliard on 15th May, 1826, of
parents not rich, but respectable. His father occupied a subordinate
post in the administration under Louis Philippe and the Republic, and
expended nearly the whole of his salary in the education of his two
sons, even undergoing many privations for that purpose. His mother,
a teacher of considerable merit, whose memory is held in respect by
all who knew her, died young, greatly through overwork and fatigue,
incurred in providing for the wants of her family and the education
of her children. Two months after the departure of her son Henri for
Russia--a separation which was heartbreaking to her--she took to her
bed, from which she never rose again. This was in 1844. M. Mouhot first
studied philology in his own country, intending to become a teacher;
but before long a strong leaning for the natural sciences, easy to
be understood in the country of Cuvier and of Laurillard, gave a new
direction to his mind; and this, with his ardent desire to see other
countries, determined his vocation. His first profession enabled him
to extend his researches, and while he perfected himself in science
he continued to follow the arduous and thorny path of the professor.
Having a thorough knowledge of his own language, and being a good Greek
scholar, it was not difficult for him to acquire with facility both
Russian and Polish during his stay in that vast northern empire, which
he traversed from St. Petersburgh to Sebastopol, and from Warsaw to
Moscow.
He began as a teacher, but soon became an artist, after the discovery
of Daguerre, which impressed him strongly; he mastered its mechanical
parts, and determined to carry the new invention into foreign lands.
This afforded to him the means of an existence conformable to his
wishes. He soon made affectionate friends in the highest classes of
society in Russia; took out his professor’s diploma there, and in that
capacity was admitted into several establishments, both public and
private; among others, to that of the cadets of Voronége, &c. Devoting
himself in his hours of leisure, and at night, to the cultivation of
the arts and sciences, and profiting by his visits to various towns and
departments of the empire, he constantly augmented his collection of
drawings and photographs, comprising landscapes illustrating different
parts of the country, portraits of distinguished men, specimens from
museums, and buildings in the semi-Byzantine style, equally interesting
to artists and to archæologists.
He scrupulously refrained from politics, and fully appreciated the
difficulty of governing a country so immense, and in which the manners,
religion, and language differ so much in its various parts; still he
felt deeply the condition of the serfs, a condition which Alexander
II., moved by generous sentiments, wishes now to reform. This state of
things made a painful impression on the heart of the young Frenchman,
and on his return to his own country he gave vent to his feelings in
a book called ‘Slavery in Russia;’ and in order to engage better the
attention of the reader he wove it into the form of a novel, in which
he was enabled to employ the resources of illustration, and to depict
the manners of the country. This work, however, which touched on many
of the leading questions of the day, was never published, and is only
mentioned here as an illustration of his generous feelings.
The war which broke out in the East induced him to leave Russia,
although, doubtless, owing to his numerous friends, he might safely
have awaited there the return of a time more propitious to the
cultivation of art and science; but his feelings as a Frenchman
revolted from this, and he also felt that the gravity of the events
about to take place would turn every mind from all but warlike subjects.
M. Mouhot, therefore, returned to France to his father and to a loved
brother, who became the companion of his new travels in Germany,
Belgium, and the north of Italy; and everywhere they laboured by means
of photography to make known the works of the great masters and the
beauties of the country, exercising their profession like real artists.
They afterwards resolved to visit Holland, where photography was less
widely known than in other countries. After staying there some time
they removed their establishment to England in 1856, the more willingly
as they had both married English ladies, relatives of Mungo Park, and
having friends willing to push on the two young men, who, full of
energy, possessed the qualities necessary for success in an artistic
or scientific career. During some ensuing years the two brothers
pursued their calling together, and shared each other’s pleasures
and cares; but Henri afterwards found in a peaceful life at Jersey
an opportunity of resuming his studies in Natural History, devoting
himself particularly to Ornithology and Conchology. These studies
revived in him the desire for foreign travel; and beautiful as was the
island where he lived--and where his time was divided between his home,
his books, and out-door pursuits--his thirst for knowledge made him
long for a wider field of research, and one less explored by modern
travellers. An English book on Siam came into his possession about
this time, as though sent by the hand of destiny, and to visit that
country became the object of his aspirations. The great Geographical
and Zoological Societies of London, capable of appreciating the man
of merit, approved of his project, and aided him efficaciously in its
prosecution; and M. H. Mouhot quitted his wife, brother, and all his
friends and every advantage of civilization, in order to visit, in the
cause of science, regions little known, but where, through much fatigue
and danger, the prospect of a glorious future opened itself before him.
He was already well prepared for the life; active, strong, and blessed
with an excellent constitution: his physical strength was beyond
the average--a result of the gymnastic sports in which he had taken
pleasure in his youth, and of his habitual sobriety. He had never had
an attack of fever, nor any other illness; and he resisted for four
years the effects of a tropical climate, incredible fatigue, bad food,
and nights passed in forests, without any apparent loss of health or
strength, which is doubtless to be attributed to his never taking
spirits, and wine only very sparingly.
His intellectual and moral qualities did not seem less to promise
success; both a _savant_ and an artist, he was also an indefatigable
hunter, and had a degree of kindness mingled with his courage which was
sure to gain the good-will of the uncivilized people among whom he had
to live. In all these respects M. Mouhot fulfilled the expectations of
the savans of England and of his numerous friends, as is evident by
the rich collections made by him in so short a time, by the cordial
welcome which he met with throughout his travels, by the respect paid
to him by all learned men, and by the unanimous feelings of regret at
his death, both in England and on the Continent. Although a Protestant,
he inspired sincere friendships among the Catholic missionaries in Siam
and the other countries he visited from 1858 to 1861, friendships which
are clearly shown in his journal and letters.
We shall not say much about his travels; they form the subject of this
work, which, even in its unfinished state, we trust will present much
important information to the geographer and archæologist, to the
naturalist and linguist. Many capable of judging have already hastened
to pay their tribute of praise to the traveller who has enriched such
various branches of science, and displayed to the world the riches of
the extreme East.
M. Mouhot dedicated the last four years of his life to exploring the
interior of Siam; he first travelled through that country, then through
Cambodia, and afterwards re-ascended the Mekong as far as the frontiers
of Laos; visited one of the savage and independent tribes inhabiting
the district between those two countries and Cochin China; then, after
having crossed the great lake Touli-Sap, he explored the provinces of
Ongcor and Battambong, where he discovered splendid ruins, especially
the Temple of Ongcor the Great, which is nearly perfect, and perhaps
unparalleled in the world.
Passing from the basin of the Mekong into that of the Menam, he saw
mountains of which the principal peak was more than 6000 feet high.
He returned occasionally to Bangkok, the capital of Siam, in order
to make preparations for fresh expeditions. The loss, by the wreck
of the _Sir James Brooke_, of a very valuable collection, did not
discourage him; but he set about at once to replace it. At the time of
his death, which happened on 10th November, 1861, he was _en route_
for the provinces south-west of China, when, having already penetrated
far into the interior, he was attacked by the jungle fever, and died
after twenty-two days’ illness. His energetic mind, full of the task he
had to perform, remained clear to the end, and a few last words were
written by him, his strength of will overcoming his weakness.
He set out for Louang-Prabang on 15th October, and on the 18th halted
at H---- (the name is unfinished in the manuscript); the next day he
felt the first symptoms of the fever to which he fell a victim. From
the 29th October he wrote nothing. The last words in the journal, “Have
pity on me, O my God,” show the religious principles which had guided
his life.
All that we know of his last days and his lamentable end, was learned
from his two native servants, who were strongly attached to him; and
through Sir R. Schomburgh, the English Consul at Bangkok, and Dr.
Campbell, Surgeon R.N., who was attached to the British consulate,
and who returned shortly afterwards to England, when he placed all
the papers, notes, and drawings left by M. Mouhot in the hands of his
widow and of M. Charles Mouhot, whose task it has been to arrange this
legacy as methodically as possible, considering the great difficulty of
finding the connecting links of his various descriptions.
The ‘Athenæum’ and the ‘Illustrated London News’[1] both inserted an
account of the death of M. H. Mouhot; and the latter journal justly
designated his death as another addition to the long list of martyrs
to science. It likewise gave a short sketch of the discoveries and
scientific services of this intrepid traveller.
[1] Number for August 9, 1862, which also contained a tolerably good
portrait of M. Mouhot.
Ornithology, entomology, and other branches of natural history, were
represented in the collection sent by M. Mouhot to his agent, Mr.
S. Stevens, of Bloomsbury Street, London, and were the subject of
several papers by Dr. Gray, Dr. Gunter, Dr. Louis Pfeiffer, and other
naturalists, members of the Zoological Society of London, and published
in the ‘Annals and Magazine of Natural History.’ At a meeting of the
Royal Geographical Society on the 10th of March, 1862, Sir R. Murchison
seized the occasion of reading some letters from the traveller relating
to the topography of Cambodia, to pay a tribute of gratitude to his
merit as a zoological collector and explorer. “His loss,” he observed,
“will be much felt by men of science, and a long time may elapse before
another man will be found bold enough to follow his steps in that
country of virgin forests and fever, and to the exploring of which he
sacrificed his home, his health, and his life.”
Mr. Stevens, in acquainting the brother of the traveller with the fact
of his having received a new zoological collection which had been
consigned to him, says, “I can truly say that the insects and shells
equal, if they do not surpass, any in the most beautiful collections I
have ever received, and show clearly what a marvellously rich country
for the naturalist lies between Siam and Cochin-China.” A splendid
_scarabæus_ was also sent to Mr. Stevens, who remarks, that “this
insect was described in the ‘Zoological Review’ of Paris under the name
of _Mouhotia gloriosa_, as a mark of respect to the late M. Mouhot, and
stated to be one of the most magnificent known.”
The Society of Montbéliard hastened, on the first news of his death,
to write to his brother, and the letter contains these words:--“His
work was left unfinished, but it was gloriously commenced, and his name
will not perish!”
Amidst all these eulogiums of a life, short but well spent, one of the
most touching is a letter from M. Marie Ch. Fontaine, missionary at
Saigon in Cochin-China, who was in Paris in August, 1862, and saw in a
newspaper the death of the man whom he had met in Siam and Cambodia,
which was soon confirmed by a letter from his brother. This worthy
missionary addressed to M. Charles Mouhot a letter, of which the whole
should be read; we only extract the following passage:--“I learned,
when on my mission, the death of my father, and then that of my mother.
I assure you that these two cruel blows scarcely made more impression
on me than the news of the death of a man whose equal I had not met
with during the twenty years that I have inhabited that country; and
to hear of his dying without any help, and having no one near him but
his servants throughout his illness, in a country so barbarous, was
more than sufficient to make tears flow at the memory of this good and
benevolent friend. Be assured, my dear Sir, that my sentiments are
shared by all here who knew M. Mouhot. The natives themselves must have
felt regret at his loss, for all whom he came near praised him for his
behaviour towards them, and his gentleness and generosity; qualities
invaluable in the eyes of that people.”
In a letter recently addressed by Sir R. Schomburgh to M. C. Mouhot,
enclosing the portraits of the King and Queen of Siam, that gentleman
thus expresses himself:--“I admired the zeal and knowledge of your
late brother; and his manners were so amiable and modest that one
would have thought that every one with whom he came in contact would
have exercised all their influence to assist him in his plans. I often
regretted that he was not an English subject, that I might have been
able to do more for him. I shall look impatiently for the publication
of his book, and have given orders that the French edition may be
forwarded to me at once.”
I can add nothing to these touching testimonies, which paint faithfully
the man as I knew him in Holland. The affectionate heart of Henri
Mouhot awakened in others an affection which the tomb does not destroy,
but which grows stronger with time.
J. J. BELINFANTE.
_The Hague, December 15, 1862._
CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
PAGE
DEDICATION 7
PREFACE 11
MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR 19
CHAPTER I.
THE VOYAGE--FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SIAM; AND OF BANGKOK, ITS
CAPITAL--RECEPTION IN THE PALACE--THE TWO KINGS OF SIAM 37
CHAPTER II.
GEOGRAPHY AND HISTORY OF THE KINGDOM OF SIAM 54
CHAPTER III.
VOYAGE UP THE MENAM TO AYUTHIA THE ANCIENT CAPITAL--THE
RUINS--EXCURSION TO MOUNT PHRABAT--ITS TEMPLE--ITS SACRED AND
GEOLOGICAL FOOTSTEPS--SARABURI AND PATAVI 106
CHAPTER IV.
CHANTABOUN--ITS PRODUCTS AND COMMERCE--APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY--
THE ISLES OF KO-MAN--ISLES OF PATATES--THE ISLAND OF KO-KRAM--PAKNAM
VEN--MANNER IN WHICH THE APES PLAY WITH THE CROCODILES 141
CHAPTER V.
LIFE IN THE HILL-COUNTRY--MOUNT SABAT--HUNTING--TIGERS--SERPENTS--
RICH VEGETATION OF CHANTABURI 155
CHAPTER VI.
RETURN TO CHANTABOUN--EXCURSION TO BATTAMBONG--THE ISLANDS OF
KOH KONG--ISLAND OF PHU QUOC--BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT IN THE GULF OF
KOMPUT--CAMBODIA--COMMERCE OF THESE COUNTRIES--MISERABLE STATE
OF THE PEOPLE--VISIT TO THE KING OF CAMBODIA 174
CHAPTER VII.
DETAILS RESPECTING CAMBODIA--UDONG, ITS PRESENT
CAPITAL--INTERVIEWS WITH THE SECOND KING 192
CHAPTER VIII.
DEPARTURE FROM UDONG--TRAIN OF ELEPHANTS--PINHALU--KIND
TREATMENT BY THE MISSIONARIES--THE GREAT LAKE OF
CAMBODIA--TOULI-SAP--THE THIÂMES--SPECULATIONS AS TO THEIR
ORIGIN--ANCIENT KINGDOM OF TSIAMPA--ISRAELITE TRADITIONS OF THE
THIÂMES OR TSIAMPOIS 213
CHAPTER IX.
THE GREAT BAZAAR OF CAMBODIA, PENOM-PEUH--THE RIVER MÉKON--THE
ISLAND KO-SUTIN--PEMPTIÉLAN--PUMP-KA-DAYE, ON THE BORDERS
OF CAMBODIA--SOME FURTHER NOTES ON THE COUNTRY--FATHER
GUILLOUX--JOURNEY TO BRELUM AND THE NEIGHBOURING COUNTRY
INHABITED BY THE SAVAGE STIENS 226
CHAPTER X.
SOJOURN OF THREE MONTHS AMONG THE SAVAGE STIENS--MANNERS OF THIS
TRIBE--PRODUCTS OF THE COUNTRY--FAUNA--MANNERS OF THE ANNAMITES 240
CHAPTER XI.
RETURN TO PINHALU AND UDONG--THE GREAT LAKE TOULI-SAP--MEETING
WITH NINE ELEPHANTS--RECENT ACTS OF OPPRESSION TOWARDS THE
PEOPLE--ON THE EVENTUAL REGENERATION OF THE PEOPLE--THE PROVINCE
OF BATTAMBOURG--GRAND RUINS 265
CHAPTER XII.
DESCRIPTION OF THE TEMPLE OF ONGCOR--OBSERVATIONS ON THESE
RUINS, AND ON OTHERS IN THE PROVINCES OF ONGCOR AND BATTAMBONG 278
ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. I.
PAGE
THE KING AND QUEEN OF SIAM _Frontispiece._
ONE OF THE SONS OF THE KING OF SIAM 10
PORTRAIT OF M. HENRI MOUHOT 18
THE RIVER MENAM 36
VIEW IN THE GULF OF SIAM 39
GENERAL VIEW OF BANGKOK 43
THE SECOND KING OF SIAM 47
TWO OF THE WIVES OF THE KING OF SIAM 51
PAGODA AT AYUTHIA 57
SIAMESE WOMEN _To face_ 60
PERFORATED ROCK IN THE ISLE OF EBOULON, GULF OF SIAM 63
RUINS OF A TEMPLE AND STATUE OF BUDDHA AT AYUTHIA 67
THE PAGODA OF AYUTHIA, FROM THE RIVER 71
VIEW TAKEN FROM THE CANAL OF AYUTHIA 75
RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA 79
THE GREAT TOWER OF THE PAGODA WAT-CHING AT BANGKOK _To face_ 82
PRIEST’S HOUSE NEAR AYUTHIA 87
DETAILS OF THE PAGODA WAT-CHANG AT BANGKOK _To face_ 90
RUINS AT AYUTHIA 93
SIAMESE LADIES AT DINNER _To face_ 98
SIAMESE ROPE-DANCER 101
INUNDATION OF THE MENAM 107
RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA 112
ELEPHANTS IN AN ENCLOSURE OR “PARK” AT AYUTHIA _To face_ 114
ROCK AT THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT PHRABAT 117
RELICS FOUND ON MOUNT PHRABAT 119
PAGODA AT MOUNT PHRABAT, WHERE IS PRESERVED THE
FOOTPRINT OF BUDDHA _To face_ 120
VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF KORAT, TAKEN FROM PATAWI 123
A LAOTIAN 129
SIAMESE NURSE AND BABY 133
PORT OF CHANTABOUN _To face_ 136
THE LION ROCK AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE PORT OF CHANTABOUN 139
CHAPEL OF THE MISSION, CHANTABOUN 145
VIEW OF PAKNAM, ON THE MENAM 150
MONKEYS PLAYING WITH A CROCODILE _To face_ 152
SIAMESE ACTORS 170
VIEW OF BATTAMBONG _To face_ 174
LEECH-FISHERS ON THE ISLE OF SAMET 177
FAVOURITE WIFE OF THE KING OF CAMBODIA 185
PORTRAIT OF THE SECOND KING OF CAMBODIA (NOW THE FIRST KING) 198
CAMBODIAN CART 200
A PAGE OF THE KING OF CAMBODIA 207
A NATIVE ACTRESS 211
A SIAMESE OF THE LOWER CLASS 215
CHINESE MONUMENT AT BANGKOK 219
THE RIVER MEKON AT PENOM-PEUH 229
CAMBODIAN HUT AT PEMPTIELAN, ON THE MEKON 233
CAMBODIAN HOUSE 238
A SAVAGE STIEN 242
ANOTHER SAVAGE STIEN 244
SAVAGE STIENS SOWING RICE 247
AMAZON OF THE KING’S FEMALE GUARDS 257
SCENE IN THE JUNGLE BETWEEN BATTAMBONG AND BANGKOK 261
HALT OF THE CARAVAN IN THE JUNGLE BETWEEN BATTAMBONG AND BANGKOK 267
TOWER AT BANOME, NEAR BATTAMBONG 273
FAÇADE OF THE TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT _To face_ 279
STATUE OF THE LEPROUS KING 281
PRINCIPAL ENTRANCE OF THE GREAT TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT 284
TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT, NORTH SIDE 288
CARVINGS OF ARMS, UTENSILS, AND ORNAMENTS AT ONGCOR-WAT 292
PAVILION IN THE INTERIOR OF THE TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT 297
CENTRAL PORTICO OF THE GREAT TEMPLE OF ONGCOR-WAT _To face_ 298
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
THE RIVER MENAM.]
TRAVELS IN INDO-CHINA, ETC.
CHAPTER I.
THE VOYAGE--FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SIAM; AND OF BANGKOK, ITS
CAPITAL--RECEPTION IN THE PALACE--THE TWO KINGS OF SIAM.
On the 27th April, 1858, I embarked at London, in a sailing ship of
very modest pretensions, in order to put in execution my long-cherished
project of exploring the kingdoms of Siam, Cambodia, and Laos, and
visiting the tribes who occupy the banks of the great river Mekon.
I spare the reader the details of the voyage and of my life on board
ship, and shall merely state that there were annoyances in plenty, both
as regards the accommodation for the passengers and the conduct of the
captain, whose sobriety was more than doubtful.
SINGAPORE.
We arrived at Singapore on the 3rd September. The census, taken
in May, 1859, of the population of this beautiful and flourishing
settlement, gave the following results.--Total, 81,792, of whom only
450 were Europeans, and 1995 Eurasians, or of a mixed race, such as
Indo-English, Indo-Portuguese, and Indo-Dutch. The Chinese numbered
50,043, the Klings 11,735, and Malays 10,880; the women belonging
to these races being computed at no more than 3248, 963, and 3700
respectively. The remainder of the population was composed of Bengalese
1236, Burmese and Siamese 14, Bugese 916, Javanese 3408, and Arabs 117.
There are in the island 13 schools, 70 temples or pagodas, 13 hotels
and taverns, 26 pawnbrokers, 87 spirit-merchants, 144 houses licensed
for opium-smoking, and 11 houses for the sale of a peculiar spirit
unknown in France, but which is extracted from rice, and known under
the name of arrack. The fishing-boats number 750. Facilities for
locomotion and traffic are provided by 589 public carriages, 1180
passenger-boats, and 600 carts for the transport of merchandise.
In addition to the population of Singapore itself, the islands in the
immediate vicinity, and forming a part of the settlement, contain
1500 inhabitants, making the entire population of Singapore and its
dependencies nearly 83,000. I made only a short stay there, my chief
object being to gain information respecting the country I was about
to visit. On the 12th of the same month, after a very monotonous
voyage, we arrived at the mouth of the river Menam, on whose banks
Bangkok is built. A vast sandbank here bars the entrance of large
ships, and compels them to go eight or nine miles farther up the
gulf, and discharge their cargoes at great additional expense. Our
vessel, however, only drawing eight feet of water, passed without much
difficulty, and anchored at Paknam in front of the Governor’s house,
whither the captain and myself proceeded without loss of time, in order
to obtain the necessary permission to continue our route.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW IN THE GULF OF SIAM.]
PAKNAM--THE MENAM.
This formality over, I hastened to visit the forts, which are of
brick and battlemented, the markets, and some of the streets. Paknam
is the Sebastopol or Cronstadt of the Kings of Siam; nevertheless, I
fancied that a European squadron could easily master it, and that the
commander, after breakfasting there, might dine the same day at Bangkok.
On a little island in the middle of the river rises a famous and rather
remarkable pagoda, containing, I was told, the bodies of their last
kings. The effect of this pyramidal structure reflected in the deep
and limpid water, with its background of tropical verdure, was most
striking. As for the town, all that I saw of it was disgustingly dirty.
The Menam deserves its beautiful name--Mother of Waters--for its depth
permits the largest vessels to coast along its banks without danger:
so closely, indeed, that the birds may be heard singing gaily in the
overhanging branches, and the hum of numberless insects enlivens the
deck by night and day. The whole effect is picturesque and beautiful.
Here and there houses are dotted about on either bank, and numerous
villages give variety to the distant landscape.
We met a great number of canoes managed with incredible dexterity
by men and women, and often even by children, who are here early
familiarised with the water. I saw the Governor’s children, almost
infants, throw themselves into the river, and swim and dive like
water-fowl. It was a curious and interesting sight, particularly from
the strong contrast between the little ones and the adults. Here, as
in the whole plain of Siam, which I afterwards visited, I met most
attractive children, tempting one to stop and caress them; but as they
grow older they rapidly lose all beauty, the habit of chewing the
betel-nut producing an unsightly blackening of the teeth and swelling
of the lips.
BANGKOK.
It is impossible to state the exact population of Bangkok, the census
of all Eastern countries being extremely imperfect. It is estimated,
however, at from three to four hundred thousand inhabitants. Owing to
its semi-aquatic site, we had reached the centre of the city while I
believed myself still in the country; I was only undeceived by the
sight of various European buildings, and the steamers which plough this
majestic river, whose margins are studded with floating houses and
shops.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
GENERAL VIEW OF BANGKOK.]
Bangkok is the Venice of the East, and whether bent on business or
pleasure you must go by water. In place of the noise of carriages and
horses, nothing is heard but the dip of oars, the songs of sailors, or
the cries of the Cipayes (Siamese rowers). The river is the high street
and the boulevard, while the canals are the cross streets, along which
you glide, lying luxuriously at the bottom of your canoe.
We cast anchor in front of the cathedral of the French Mission and of
the modest palace of Monseigneur Pallegoix, the worthy archbishop,
who, for nearly thirty years, without any assistance but that of
missionaries as devoted as himself, has made the revered emblem of
Christianity and the name of France respected in these distant regions.
The sight of the Cross in foreign lands speaks to the heart like
meeting with an old friend; one feels comforted and no longer alone.
It is beautiful to see the devotion, self-denial, and courage of
these poor and pious missionaries; a blessing as they are, also, to
travellers, it would be ungrateful not to render them the gratitude
which is their just due.
FOREIGN MERCHANTS.
For some time past, particularly since the wars in China and
Cochin-China, Siam has been much talked of in Europe; and, relying on
the faith of treaties of peace and commerce, several French and English
houses of business have been established there. Unfortunately, there
was much deception on the part of the native authorities, which has
given rise to general and well-founded complaints from the merchants.
The fact is, that they have dangerous competitors in the mandarins and
even in the princes, who monopolise the greater part of the trade in
rice and sugar, their chief articles of commerce, which they despatch
in their junks and other vessels. Moreover, the people were not
prepared for the change which had taken place in the laws, and had
scarcely cultivated more than enough for home consumption; add to
this that the population is far from numerous, and, the Siamese being
an indolent race, most of the agriculture falls into the hands of the
Chinese, who flock to Singapore, Australia, and California.
The country certainly merits the reputation which it enjoys for beauty,
but it is especially in its mountain scenery that nature displays its
grandeur.
During a ten years’ residence in Russia I witnessed the frightful
effects of despotism and slavery. At Siam, results not less sad and
deplorable obtruded themselves on my notice; every inferior crouches
before a higher in rank; he receives his orders kneeling, or with some
other sign of abject submission and respect. The whole of society is in
a state of prostration.
PRESENTED TO THE KING OF SIAM.
I was making my preparations for departure on the 16th October, my
purpose being to penetrate into the north of the country and visit
Cambodia and the savage tribes belonging to it, when I received an
invitation from the King of Siam to be present at the great dinner
which this monarch gives every year, on his birthday, to the European
residents in Bangkok. I was presented by Monseigneur Pallegoix, and his
Majesty’s reception was kind and courteous. His costume consisted of a
pair of large trousers, a short brown jacket of some thin material, and
slippers; on his head he wore a little copper helmet like those worn by
the naval officers, and at his side a rich sabre.
Most of the Europeans in Bangkok were present at the dinner, and
enthusiastic toasts were drunk to the health of his Majesty, who,
instead of being seated, stood or walked round the table, chewing
betel and addressing some pleasant observation to each of his guests
in turn. The repast was served in a vast hall, from whence we could
see a platoon of the royal guard, with flags and drums, drawn up in
the courtyard. When I went to take leave of the King, he graciously
presented me with a little bag of green silk, containing some of
the gold and silver coin of the country,--a courtesy which was most
unexpected, and for which I expressed my gratitude.
KING SOMDEL PHRA.
This King, whose official title is Somdel Phra, Paramanda,
Maha-Mangkut--that is, His Majesty the King, encircled with the Great
Crown--was born on the 18th October, 1804, and mounted the throne
of Siam in the year 1851. The first part of his life was passed in
complete retirement in a monastery, in this following the example of
many of his predecessors: for all sects emanating from Buddhism think
it necessary that the rulers of nations should prepare themselves for
supreme power by a previous life of repose and sanctity.
ACQUIREMENTS OF THE KING.
It was only after the accession of Somdel Phra that the mastery he had
gained over the most difficult sciences became known. After having
applied himself to the history and geography of his country, he turned
to the study of astronomy, natural philosophy, politics, and philology.
He was familiar not only with all the dialects of Siam and Indo-China,
but also with ancient Sanscrit and English, in which latter language
he had written several treatises. The English journals at Hong-Kong
have been honoured by articles from his pen, and no one who reads them
can be surprised that the august contributor should have been elected
a member of the Asiatic Society in London, a body which reckons on its
list so many savans of the first rank.
His Majesty had also acquired a fair knowledge of Latin from the French
missionaries, especially from Archbishop Pallegoix, who has been
his friend for thirty years. He studied astronomy almost without a
master, and had gained such proficiency in that science as to be able
to calculate an eclipse and determine the latitude and longitude of a
place. He introduced a printing-press into his dominions, in which both
Siamese and Roman characters are used. His language testifies to his
education and intelligence, though it more resembles the phraseology of
books than that of ordinary conversation.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. H. Rousseau, from a Photograph.
TWO OF THE WIVES OF THE KING OF SIAM.]
His predecessor had several hundred wives, and I believe the present
King does not possess fewer than some dozen; but he only bestowed the
title of queen on one, whose portrait hangs by the side of his own, and
whose death, soon after my visit, left him inconsolable.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph
THE SECOND KING OF SIAM.]
THE SECOND KING.
A singular institution, peculiar to Siam, Cambodia, and Laos, exists
in a second king, slightly inferior to the other, and having a sort
of reflected authority, the limits of which are not easily defined.
His official title is Wangna, a word which literally signifies “the
youngest King.” He has his court, his mandarins, and his little army,
and they pay him royal honours; but in reality he is merely the
first subject of his colleague. His sole prerogative is exemption from
the customary prostration before the King, instead of which he salutes
him by raising both hands in the air. It is true, he is allowed to draw
largely from the royal treasury, but never without an order from the
King, which, however, is rarely refused.
The present Wangna, Pin-Klau Chan You Hona, is the legitimate brother
of the First King and his intended successor. He is a perfect
gentleman, of a cultivated mind, writing and speaking English, and
leading in his palace--which is arranged and furnished in our Western
fashion--the life of a rich, noble, and learned European. He is fond of
books and scientific researches, and familiar with all the improvements
of modern civilization; he possesses in a higher degree than his
brother the capacity for government and statesmanship, and deplores
more than any one the sad condition in which his country languishes.
Before asking the reader to accompany me into the interior of Siam, it
will not be amiss, in the next chapter, to give a short sketch of the
kingdom itself and of its past history.
CHAPTER II.
GEOGRAPHY AND HISTORY OF THE KINGDOM OF SIAM.
HISTORY OF SIAM.
The name of Siam was first heard in Europe in the year 1502. Nine years
after Alphonso d’Albuquerque had conquered the peninsula of Malacca,
some intercourse took place between Portugal and Siam, which, however,
was interrupted by the long wars between this country and the Burmese.
In 1632 an English vessel touched at the ancient capital Ayuthia.
Shortly afterwards the Portuguese at Goa sent a party of Dominican and
Franciscan missionaries to Siam, and the communication between the two
nations became more frequent. The King engaged in his service three
hundred Portuguese soldiers, who were distributed over the country,
having lands allotted to them for cultivation, and who contracted
marriage with native women. The missionaries built two churches, and
established a school.
After a while the Dutch power began to supplant that of Portugal in
the East, and, in the course of the seventeenth century, the empire of
Siam was brought into contact with the new conquerors of the Indies.
The Portuguese colonies gradually became extinct; and the influence
of the Batavian settlers increased so much, that they established at
Ayuthia a Dutch factory, which, under its director Schonten, attained
its greatest prosperity about the year 1690. Various articles of
merchandise were introduced into Siam, from whence, in return, were
exported skins, sapan-wood, &c.; and the country, from its position
and the richness of its natural productions, became at that time an
important station for the commerce of the Dutch between China and
Japan, and the valuable islands of Ceylon and Java.
France herself, at the height of her maritime power under Louis
XIV., could not equal the power of the Dutch Company, though, at one
period, chances eminently favourable presented themselves to her. A
Greek adventurer named Constantine Phaulcon, of whom we shall have
subsequently to speak, opened for himself a remarkable career in Siam,
where he was converted to Romanism by the missionaries. He suggested
to the King to send envoys to Louis XIV., and their arrival in France
produced a sensation, the echo of which we have heard in our own day in
the embassy from the same country to Napoleon III. His Most Christian
Majesty replied by accrediting ambassadors to the Siamese Court--De
Chaumont in 1685, and La Loubéze in 1687. Each was accompanied by
several Jesuit priests; and a force of 500 men, under the command of
General de Fargues, was stationed at Bangkok. The General, however, was
not able to maintain his position; Constantine met with a tragic end,
and the Jesuit fathers were kept as hostages. These failures destroyed
the French influence for more than a century and a half, and for a
time strengthened the power of Holland.
This brief glance at the intercourse between Europe and Siam in the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries will suffice.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Thérond, from a Photograph.
PAGODA AT AYUTHIA.]
The celebrated German traveller Mandelslohe visited the capital Ayuthia
in 1537, and called it the Venice of the East--a title which, as we
have seen, is equally applicable to the modern capital Bangkok. The
Portuguese explorer Mendez Pinto, who also paid a visit to Siam in
the sixteenth century, gives a favourable picture of the country, and
all that has since come to our knowledge respecting it shows that he
merited a greater faith in his statements than was accorded to him by
his contemporaries.
EXTENT OF SIAM.
The empire of Siam is of great extent. Its limits have varied much
at different epochs of its history; and even now, with the exception
of the western frontier, the lines of demarcation cannot be exactly
traced, most of the border-lands being occupied by tribes more or less
independent, and there are perpetual wars between the Malay and Burmese
races on the one side, and the Cambodian or Chinese on the other. As
nearly as can be calculated, the country extends, at present, from the
4th to the 20th or 22nd degree of north latitude, and from the 96th to
the 102nd degree of east longitude; and according to this computation,
its length would be about 1200 miles and its breadth 400 miles.
PROVINCES OF SIAM.
The Siamese dominions are divided into forty-one provinces, each
presided over by a phaja or governor, and these, again, are subdivided
into numerous districts under the authority of functionaries of
inferior rank, of whose administration little can be said in praise.
The northern provinces are five in number--Sangkalôk, Phitsalôk or
Phitsanulôk, Kumphang-Phet, Phixai, and Tahëng. In the centre are nine
provinces--Nantaburi or Jalat-Khuan, Pak-Pret, Patummatoni or Samkuk,
Ayuthia or Krung-Kao, Ang-Thong, Monang-Phrom, Monang-In, Xainat, and
Nakhon-Savan.
There are seven in the west--Monang-Pin, Suphan or Suphanaburi,
Kan-Chanaburi or Pak-Phrëk, Rapri or Raxaburi, Nakhon-Xaisi, Sakhonburi
or Tha-Chin, Samut-Songkhram or Mei-Khlong.
The eastern provinces number ten--Phetsjaboun, Bua-Xum, Sara-Buri,
Nopha-Buri, Nakhon-Najok, Patsjin, Kabin, Sasong-Sao or Petriu,
Battabâng, and Phanatsani-Khom.
In the south are--Pakhlat or Nakhon-Khuen-Khan, Paknam or
Sananthaprakan, Bangplasor or Xalaburi, Rajong, Chantaboun or
Chantabouri, Thung-Jai, Phiphri or Phetxaburi, Xumphon, Xaya, and
Xalang or Salang.
Siam has been distinguished by the historians of the country under
two great divisions--Monang-Nona, the region of the north, at first
the more populous portion, and Monang-Tai, the southern region.
The Chronicles of the south are sometimes called ‘The Chronicles
of the Royal City’ (Ayuthia), and commence at the period when this
place became the capital. De Barrios relates that, in his time (the
fifteenth century), nine states were in subjection to the monarchs of
Siam, two only of which were peopled by the Siamese race--viz., the
southern kingdom, and that of the north, whose chief city was Chaumua.
The Siamese language, likewise, was spoken only in these two countries.
Siam is called by the natives Thaï, or Monang-Thaï, which means “free”
or “the kingdom of the free.” Archbishop Pallegoix, who is a great
authority in these matters, maintains that the modern name Siam is
derived from Sajam, or “the brown race.”[2]
[2] The word Siam is Malay, from which language this name, as well
as many others of Indian places, has been borrowed by Europeans. The
Siamese know it not.
CONNECTION WITH NEIGHBOURING STATES.
While several districts in the north and east are tributary to this
country, it appears to have been itself originally a great fief of
China. Thus the King of Siam receives from this neighbouring empire a
special confirmation of his authority, much resembling the patronage
accorded by the Sultan to the Barbary states. However, if the external
forms of this vassalage are observed, it is rather from a profound
respect for tradition and ancient custom than from any virtual
recognition of the power of the Emperor of China to acknowledge or
interfere with the rights of sovereignty. One of the dependencies of
this country, Cambodia, is also claimed by Cochin-China, and its ruler,
unable to resist either of his more powerful neighbours, is forced to
pay tribute to both.
POPULATION.
The population of Siam cannot yet be determined with any great
exactness, but it is certain that it bears no proportion to the extent
of territory. Archbishop Pallegoix estimates it at only 6,000,000--a
computation, however, very different from that of Sir John Bowring.
The difficulty of arriving at any correct result is augmented by the
Siamese custom of numbering only the men. Thus, the native registers
showed, a few years ago, for the male sex, 2,000,000 Siamese, 1,000,000
Laotians, 1,000,000 Malays, 1,500,000 Chinese, 350,000 Cambodians,
50,000 Peguans, and a like number composed of various tribes inhabiting
the mountain ranges.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt from a Photograph.
SIAMESE WOMEN.]
PHYSICAL FEATURES.
In the north, a chain of mountains, covered with snow, extends from
the province of Yunan to China, and its ramifications form two
great divisions, between which is situated the fertile valley of
Siam. Another chain stretches towards the west, as far as the Malay
peninsula. The great river Menam, already mentioned, traverses the
level country from north to south, taking its rise in the southern
slopes of the mountains of Yunan, and empties itself into the Gulf
of Siam. It is the Nile of this region, the great fertility of which
is owing to the annual overflowing of its waters, an event eagerly
looked for by the inhabitants, and welcomed as a blessing from
Heaven. The Menam begins to rise in the month of June, and in August
the inundation reaches its height, and then the waves of the ocean,
opposing themselves to the current, force the waters of the river back
upon its banks. The lands situated towards the middle of the great
plain receive most benefit from this operation of nature, the higher
districts being too much surrounded by mountains, while the lower are
impregnated with so much salt water as to render the cultivation of
rice difficult. If the regular inundations are, as a general rule,
productive of immense benefit, they now and then, as in Egypt, lay
waste the country: thus, for example, that of 1851 destroyed all the
sugar-plantations; and the water, to a depth of three or four feet,
resting on the earth for some time, a large number of cattle perished,
the rice-crops suffered seriously, and many valuable fruit-trees were
carried away. Some years afterwards, however, in accordance with
nature’s beneficent law of compensation, the produce was only the more
abundant.
The ancient annals of Siam relate that, about the seventh century,
Chinese junks used to ascend the stream as far as Sang-Khalak,
a distance of 120 leagues from the sea; at present it is only
navigable for 30 leagues at most. This alteration has arisen from a
gradually-increasing collection of sand and alluvial deposit--a process
which goes on in some of our western rivers, as, for instance, the
Rhine and the Meuse.
The low grounds, as is usually the case in hot climates, are less
healthy than the mountainous districts, and the forests especially are
the seat of malignant fevers. Several other rivers, and numberless
canals, fringed with bamboos and fruit-trees, round which fly a
multitude of birds, give a pleasing aspect to the country, which is
bounded on the horizon by richly-wooded hills.
The rivers are rich in fish, which, in addition to rice, forms the
principal food of the people.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
PERFORATED ROCK IN THE ISLE OF EBOULON, GULF OF SIAM.]
The shores of the sea are very picturesque, and the coast is studded
with islands covered with the most luxuriant vegetation. “The Gulf
of Siam,” says Mgr. Pallegoix, “is not subject to storms, nor to
the destructive typhoons experienced on the Chinese seaboard; thus
shipwrecks are of rare occurrence.”
Sir John Bowring recommends to his countrymen a project which he
believes feasible, and which would scarcely be secondary in importance
to the intersection of the Isthmus of Darien or that of Suez. It is
the union of the Bay of Bengal with the Gulf of Siam. He hopes that
the establishment of amicable relations between Great Britain and the
Siamese Empire will lead to the ventilation and eventual solution of a
question so interesting both in a geographical and commercial point of
view. It would be, in reality, as he says, a noble enterprise, which
would considerably shorten the voyage between India and Eastern Asia,
by making no longer necessary the tedious détour through the Straits of
Malacca, a passage which occupies not days, but weeks.
MINERALS.
The soil of this country, composed in great part of alluvial earth,
in Siam watered by its great river, and in Cambodia by the Nekong and
many other streams, refreshed by the periodical rains, and glowing
beneath a tropical sky, possesses almost unlimited capabilities. The
mountains in the north contain precious metals, but the working of them
is as yet very imperfectly attempted. The tin of Siam has been long in
repute; copper, lead, and iron have also been discovered. Diamonds and
other precious stones exist, although the exact localities where they
are met with are not known, for the natives are very mysterious on
the subject; but it is supposed that diamonds are found on the eastern
boundary of the Gulf.
ARCHIVES.
The history of the empire, arranged in the form of chronicles, is
preserved in the archives, and not permitted to be inspected by
strangers. The late king made investigations into these documents,
which, previously to the foundation of Ayuthia, towards the middle of
the fourteenth century, only presented a mass of confused materials,
in which truth and fable are curiously intermingled, as in the annals
of all nations, and pre-eminently those of the Orientals, who love to
substitute highly-coloured narratives, in the style of the Arabian
Nights, for plain history.
The Siamese trace their genealogy up to the first disciples of
Buddha (Gandama), and commence their records five centuries before
the Christian era. A succession of dynasties, varying their seat of
government, figure in the earlier volumes; and the miracles of Buddha,
and the intervention of supernatural beings, are frequently introduced.
Later on there are accounts of matrimonial alliances between Siamese
princes and the Imperial families of China, and of embassies to, and
wars with, neighbouring countries, the whole interwoven with relations
of prodigies and marvellous legends respecting Sudra and other
divinities. After the establishment of Ayuthia as the capital, history
assumes its rightful place, and the succession of the sovereigns and
the course of events are registered with tolerable correctness. The
city of Ayuthia was founded by Phaja-Utong, who took the title of
Phra-Rama-Thibaldi.[3]
[3] “The word Phra, which so frequently occurs in this work, here
appears for the first time; I have to remark that it is probably
derived from, or of common origin with, the Pharaoh of antiquity. It
is given in the Siamese dictionaries as synonymous with God, ruler,
priest, and teacher. It is in fact the word by which sovereignty
and sanctity are associated in the popular mind. As the title Divus
was appropriated by the Roman Emperor, as in most monarchies a sort
of sacredness is attached to the royal person, the orientals have
made gods of their kings, their heroes, and their sages, without any
scruple. Image-worship is in fact only the materialising or incarnating
of the idea of Deity.”--_The Kingdom and People of Siam_, Sir John
Bowring.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Catenacci, from a Photograph.
RUINS OF A TEMPLE AND STATUE OF BUDDHA AT AYUTHIA.]
EPOCHS.
The following dates, drawn from the annals, and marking important
epochs in the sacred history of Siam, are believed to be nearly
correct:--
Christian Buddhist
Era. Era.
The reigning Buddha died on the 3rd day
of the 6th month of the year of the
serpent, corresponding with the year B.C. 543
The first great Buddhist Council was
convoked under Ajatra-Sutra (in India)
the year of the death of Buddha
The second grand Council was convoked
under Hala-Sokkaraja B.C. 443 100
The third, under the rule of Sri Dhamma
Soka B.C. 325 218
The fourth grand Council B.C. 143 400
The Buddhist doctor, Phra Buddha Ghosa,
introduced Buddhism into Cambodia A.D. 422 965
It was in the year 1000 of the Buddhist era, A.D. 457, that King
Tuang, whose accession and glorious reign had been announced by a
communication from Gandama himself, and who possessed, in addition to
his other claims to distinction, “a white elephant with black tusks,”
introduced the alphabet Tai, which was communicated to a numerous
conclave of Buddhist priests. The ancient chronicles terminate with the
establishment of Chao-Utonng in the new city of Si-Ayo-Thaya (Ayuthia),
but leave the date of this event rather doubtful.
SIAMESE MONARCHS.
The following is the list of Siamese monarchs since the foundation of
this capital:--
Siamese Era. Christian Era.
712 1350 Phra Rama Phiobodi.
731 1369 ---- Rama Suen (his son).
732 1370 ---- Borom Raxa (his brother).
744 1382 ---- Rama Suen II.
747 1385 ---- Phaja Ram (his son).
763 1401 Inthaxara.
792 1430 Borom Raxa Phirat.
805 1442 Boronua Irai Lokharat.
834 1472 Phra Rama Phibodi.
875 1513 Raxa Kuman.
876 1514 Xaja Raxa Phirat.
889 1527 Phra Jot Fa.
891 1529 Maha Cha Kraphat Raxa Ihirat.
909 1547 Phra Chao Xang Phuok.
914 1552 Mahinthara Thirat.
926 1564 Phra Naret.
957 1595 Eka Thotsarot.
963 1601 Chao Fa.
964 1602 Phra Chao Song Iham.
989 1627 Phra Chao Prasal Ihong.
1017 1655 Chao Fa Xai.
1018 1656 Phra Chao Xam Phuok.
1050 1688 Phra Phet Raxa.
1059 1697 Chao Dua.
1068 1706 Name unknown.
1120 1758 Chao Dok Ma Dua.
1128 1766 Interregnum.
1129 1767 Phyja Tak.
1173 1811 Phra Phuti Chao Luang (the
founder of the present dynasty).
1187 1825 Phen Din Prasat Ihong.
1213 1851 Phra Chao Prasat Ihong.
HISTORICAL SKETCH.
Instead of dwelling on the ancient history of Siam, we prefer to
give an extract from the appendix to the celebrated work of Sir John
Bowring, ‘The Kingdom and People of Siam:’ the passage originally
appeared in ‘The Chinese Repository,’ and is from the pen of the late
king:--
“Our ancient capital Ayuthia, before the year A.D. 1350, was but the
ruin of an ancient place belonging to Kambuja (now known as Cambodia),
formerly called Lawék, whose inhabitants then possessed Southern Siam,
or Western Kambuja. Ayuthia is situated in lat. 14° 19′ N., and long.
100° 37′ E. from Greenwich. There were other cities, not far remote,
also possessed by the Kambujans; but their precise locality or much
of their history cannot now be satisfactorily ascertained. Some time
near the year A.D. 1300, the former inhabitants were much diminished by
frequent wars with the northern Siamese and the Peguans, or _Mous_, so
that these cities were vacated, or left in a ruinous state, and nothing
remained but their names.
“Former inhabitants declared that the people of Chiang-rái, a
province of what is now called Chiang-mái (North Laos), and Kampengpet,
being frequently subjected to great annoyance from their enemies,
deserted their native country, and formed a new establishment at
Ch’á-liang, in the western part of Siam proper, and built a city,
which they called Thepha-mahá-na-khon, whence has been preserved in
the national records the name of our capital down to the present day,
Krung-Thepha-mahá-na-khon. Their city was about lat. 16° N., and long.
99° E., and there five kings of the first dynasty reigned, until the
sixth, named U-T’ong Rámá-thi-bodi, ascended the throne in 1344. This
king, it is said, was son-in-law of his predecessor, who was named
Sirichai Chiang Seu, who was without male issue, and therefore the
throne descended to the son-in-law by right of the royal daughter.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Thérond, from a Photograph.
THE PAGODA OF AYUTHIA, FROM THE RIVER.]
“U-T’ong Rámá-thi-bodi was a mightier prince than any of his
predecessors, and subsequently conquered and subjected to his sway
all Southern Siam, and some provinces in the Malayan peninsula. He
made Ch’á-liang the seat of his government for six years, and then, in
consequence of the prevalence of disease of a pestilential character,
he caused various researches to be made for some more healthy location,
and finally fixed upon the site of Ayuthia, and there founded his new
capital in April, 1350. This date is an ascertained fact. From this
period our Siamese annals are more exact and the accounts generally
reliable, being accompanied by dates of days, months, and years, from
1350 to 1767.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Thérond, from a Photograph.
VIEW TAKEN FROM THE CANAL OF AYUTHIA.]
“Ayuthia, when founded, was gradually improved and became more and
more populous by natural increase, and the settlement there of families
of Laos, Kambujans, Peguans, people from Yunnán in China, who had
been brought there as captives, and by Chinese and Mussulmans from
India, who came for the purposes of trade. Here reigned fifteen kings
of one dynasty, successors of and belonging to the family of U-T’ong
Rámá-thi-bodi, who, after his death, was honourably designated as
Phra Chetha Bida--_i. e._ ‘Royal Elder Brother Father.’ This line was
interrupted by one interloping usurper between the thirteenth and
fourteenth. The last king was Ma-híntrá-thi-rát. During his reign the
renowned King of Pegu, named Chamna-dischop, gathered an immense army,
consisting of Peguans, Burmese, and inhabitants of Northern Siam, and
made an attack upon Ayuthia. The ruler of Northern Siam was Mahá-thamma
rájá, related to the fourteenth king as son-in-law, and to the last as
brother-in-law.
“After a siege of three months the Peguans took Ayuthia, but did not
destroy it or its inhabitants, the Peguan monarch contenting himself
with capturing the king and royal family, to take with him as trophies
to Pegu, and delivered the country over to be governed by Mahá-thamma
rájá, as a dependency. The King of Pegu also took back with him the
oldest son of Mahá-thamma rájá as a hostage: his name was Phra Náret.
This conquest of Ayuthia by the King of Pegu took place A.D. 1556.
“This state of dependence and tribute continued but a few years. The
King of Pegu died, and in the confusion incident to the elevation of
his son as his successor, Prince Náret escaped with his family, and,
attended by many Peguans of influence, commenced his return to his
native land. The new king, on hearing of his escape, despatched an army
to seize and bring him back. They followed him till he had crossed the
Si-thong (Burman, Sit-thaung) River, where he turned against the Peguan
army, shot the commander, who fell from his elephant dead, and then
proceeded in safety to Ayuthia.
“War with Pegu followed, and Siam again became independent. On the
demise of Mahá-thamma rájá, Prince Náret succeeded to the throne,
and became one of the mightiest and most renowned rulers Siam ever
had. In his wars with Pegu he was accompanied by his younger brother,
Eká-tassa-rot, who succeeded Náret on the throne, but, on account of
mental derangement, was soon removed, and Phra Siri Sin Wi-mon-tham
was called by the nobles from the priesthood to the throne. He had
been very popular as a learned and religious teacher, and commanded
the respect of all the public counsellors; but he was not of the royal
family. His coronation took place A.D. 1602. There had preceded him a
race of nineteen kings, excepting one usurper. The new king submitted
all authority in government to a descendant of the former line of
kings, and to him also he intrusted his sons for education, reposing
confidence in him as capable of maintaining the royal authority over
all the tributary provinces. This officer thus became possessed of the
highest dignity and power. His master had been raised to the throne at
an advanced age. During the twenty-six years he was on the throne he
had three sons, born under the royal canopy--_i. e._ the great white
umbrella, one of the insignia of royalty.
“After the demise of the king, at an extreme old age, the personage
whom he had appointed as regent, in full council of the nobles, raised
his eldest son, then sixteen years old, to the throne. A short time
after the regent caused the second son to be slain, under the pretext
of a rebellion against his elder brother. Those who were envious of the
regent, excited the king to revenge his brother’s death as causeless,
and plan the regent’s assassination; but he, being seasonably apprised
of it, called a council of the nobles and dethroned him after one
year’s reign, and then raised his youngest brother, the third son, to
the throne.
“He was only eleven years old. His extreme youth and fondness for play,
rather than politics or government, soon created discontent. Men of
office saw that it was exposing their country to contempt, and sought
for some one who might fill the place with dignity. The regent was long
accustomed to all the duties of the government, and had enjoyed the
confidence of their late venerable king; so, with one voice, the child
was dethroned and the regent exalted under the title of Phra Chau Pra
Sath-thong. This event occurred A.D. 1630.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Thérond, from a Photograph.
RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA.]
“The king was said to have been connected with the former dynasty, both
paternally and maternally; but the connection must have been quite
remote and obscure. Under the reign of the priest-king he bore the
title Raja Suriwong, as indicating a remote connection with the royal
family. From him descended a line of ten kings, who reigned at Ayuthia
and Lopha-buri--Louvo of French writers. This line was once interrupted
by an usurper between the fourth and fifth reigns. This usurper was
the foster-father of an unacknowledged though real son of the fourth
king Chau Nárái. During his reign many European merchants established
themselves and their trade in the country, among whom was Constantine
Phaulkon (Faulkon). He became a great favourite through his skill in
business, his suggestions and superintendence of public works after
European models, and by his presents of many articles regarded by the
people of those days as great curiosities, such as telescopes, &c.
“King Nárái, the most distinguished of all Siamese rulers, before or
since, being highly pleased with the services of Constantine, conferred
on him the title of Chau Phyá Wicha-yentrá-thé-bodi, under which title
there devolved on him the management of the government in all the
northern provinces of the country. He suggested to the king the plan of
erecting a fort on European principles as a protection to the capital.
This was so acceptable a proposal, that at the king’s direction he was
authorised to select the location and construct the fort.
“He selected a territory which was then employed as garden-ground, but
is now the territory of Bangkok. On the west bank, near the mouth of
a canal, now called Báng-luang, he constructed a fort, which bears
the name of Wichayeiw Fort to this day. It is close to the residence
of his Royal Highness Chaufá-noi Kromma Khun Isaret rangsan. This fort
and circumjacent territory was called Thana-buri. A wall was erected,
enclosing a space of about 100 yards square. Another fort was built
on the east side of the river, where the walled city of Bangkok now
stands. The ancient name Bangkok was in use when the whole region was
a garden.[4] The above-mentioned fort was erected about the year A.D.
1675.
[4] Such names abound now, as Bang-cha, Bang-phra, Bang-plá-soi, &c.;
_Báng_ signifying a small stream or canal, such as is seen in gardens.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Thérond, from a Photograph.
THE GREAT TOWER OF THE PAGODA WAT-CHING AT BANGKOK.]
“This extraordinary European also induced his grateful sovereign King
Nárái to repair the old city of Lopha-buri (Louvo), and construct there
an extensive royal palace on the principles of European architecture.
On the north of this palace Constantine erected an extensive and
beautiful collection of buildings for his own residence. Here also he
built a Romish church, on which are still to be seen some inscriptions
in European letters, supposed to be Dutch or German; they assuredly
are neither French nor English (perhaps they are Greek, as he was of
Greek extraction, and born at Cephalonia). The ruins of all these
edifices and their walls are still to be seen, and are said to be a
great curiosity. It is moreover stated that he planned the construction
of canals, with reservoirs at intervals for bringing water from the
mountains on the north-east to the city Lopha-buri, and conveying
it through earthen and copper pipes and syphons, so as to supply the
city in the dry season on the same principle as that adopted in Europe.
He commenced also a canal, with embankments, to the holy place called
Phra-Bat, about twenty-five miles south-west from the city. He made
an artificial pond on the summit of Phra-Bat mountain, and thence, by
means of copper tubes and stop-cocks, conveyed abundance of water to
the kitchen and bath-rooms of the royal residence at the foot of the
mountain. His works were not completed when misfortune overtook him.
“Many Siamese officers and royal ministers were jealous of his
influence, and murmured their suspicions of his being a secret rebel.
At length he was accused of designing to put the king to death by
inviting him to visit the church he had built, between the walls of
which, it is said, he had inserted a quantity of gunpowder, which was
to be ignited by a match at a given signal, and thus involve the death
of the king. On this serious charge he was assassinated by private
order of the king. (This is the traditional story: the written annals
state that he was slain in his sedan while faithful to his king, by
order of a rebel prince, who perceived he could not succeed in his
nefarious plans against the throne while Constantine lived.) The works
which he left half done are now generally in ruins, viz. the canal to
Phra-Bat and the aqueduct at the mountains.
“After the demise of Nárái, his unacknowledged son, born of a princess
of Yunnan or Chiang-Mai, and intrusted for training to the care of
Phya Petcha raja, slew Nárái’s son and heir, and constituted his
foster-father king, himself acting as prime minister till the death
of his foster-father, fifteen years after; he then assumed the royal
state himself. He is ordinarily spoken of as Nai Dua. Two of his sons
and two of his grandsons subsequently reigned at Ayuthia. The youngest
of these grandsons reigned only a short time, and then surrendered the
royal authority to his brother and entered the priesthood. While this
brother reigned, in the year 1759, the Burman king, Meng-luang Alaung
Barah-gyi, came with an immense army, marching in three divisions on as
many distinct routes, and combined at last in the siege of Ayuthia.
“The Siamese king, Chaufa Ekadwat Anurak Moutri, made no resolute
effort of resistance. His great officers disagreed in their measures.
The inhabitants of all the smaller towns were indeed called behind the
walls of the city, and ordered to defend it to their utmost ability;
but jealousy and dissension rendered all their bravery useless. Sallies
and skirmishes were frequent, in which the Burmese were generally the
victorious party. The siege was continued for two years. The Burmese
commander-in-chief, Mahá Nōratha, died, but his principal officers
elected another in his place. At the end of the two years the Burmese,
favoured by the dry season, when the waters were shallow, crossed in
safety, battered the walls, broke down the gates, and entered without
resistance. The provisions of the Siamese were exhausted, confusion
reigned, and the Burmese fired the city and public buildings. The
king, badly wounded, escaped with his flying subjects, but soon died
alone of his wounds and his sorrows. He was subsequently discovered and
buried.
“His brother, who was in the priesthood and now the most important
personage in the country, was captured by the Burmans, to be conveyed
in triumph to Burmah. They perceived that the country was too remote
from their own to be governed by them; they therefore freely plundered
the inhabitants, beating, wounding, and even killing many families, to
induce them to disclose treasures which they supposed were hidden by
them. By these measures the Burmese officers enriched themselves with
most of the wealth of the country. After two or three months spent in
plunder they appointed a person of Mon or Peguan origin as ruler over
Siam, and withdrew with numerous captives, leaving this Peguan officer
to gather fugitives and property to convey to Burmah at some subsequent
opportunity. This officer was named Phrá Nái Kông, and made his
head-quarters about three miles north of the city, at a place called
Phō Sam-ton, _i. e._ ‘the three Sacred Fig-trees.’ One account relates
that the last king mentioned above, when he fled from the city wounded,
was apprehended by a party of travellers and brought into the presence
of Phyá Nái Kông in a state of great exhaustion and illness; that he
was kindly received and respectfully treated, as though he was still
the sovereign; and that Phyá Nái Kông promised to confirm him again as
ruler of Siam, but his strength failed and he died a few days after his
apprehension.
“The conquest by Burmah, the destruction of Ayuthia, and appointment
of Phyá Nái Kông, took place in March, A.D. 1767. This date is
unquestionable. The period between the foundation of Ayuthia and its
overthrow by the Burmans embraces 417 years, during which there were
thirty-three kings of three distinct dynasties, of which the first
dynasty had nineteen kings with one usurper, the second had three
kings, and the third had nine kings and one usurper.
“When Ayuthia was conquered by the Burmese, in March, 1767, there
remained in the country many bands of robbers associated under brave
men as their leaders. These parties had continued their depredations
since the first appearance of the Burman army, and during about
two years had lived by plundering the quiet inhabitants, having no
government to fear. On the return of the Burman troops to their own
country, these parties of robbers had various skirmishes with each
other during the year 1767.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Thérond from a Photograph.
PRIEST’S HOUSE NEAR AYUTHIA.]
“The first king established at Bangkok was an extraordinary man, of
Chinese origin, named Pin Tat. He was called by the Chinese Tia Sin
Tat, or Tuat. He was born at a village called Bánták, in Northern Siam,
in lat. 16° N. The date of his birth was in March, 1734. At the capture
of Ayuthia he was thirty-three years old. Previous to that time he had
obtained the office of second governor of his own township, Ták, and
he next obtained the office of governor of his own town, under the
dignified title of Phyá Ták, which name he bears to the present
day. During the reign of the last King of Ayuthia, he was promoted to
the office and dignity of governor of the city of Kam-Cheng-philet,
which from times of antiquity was called the capital of the western
province of Northern Siam. He obtained this office by bribing the high
minister of the king, Chaufá Ekadwat Anurak Moutri; and being a brave
warrior, he was called to Ayuthia on the arrival of the Burman troops,
as a member of the council. But when sent to resist the Burman troops,
who were harassing the eastern side of the city, perceiving that the
Ayuthian government was unable to resist the enemy, he, with his
followers, fled to Chautaburi (Chautabun), a town on the eastern shore
of the Gulf of Siam, in lat. 12-1/2° N. and long. 101° 21′ E. There he
united with many brave men, who were robbers and pirates, and subsisted
by robbing the villages and merchant-vessels. In this way he became the
great military leader of the district, and had a force of more than
ten thousand men. He soon formed a treaty of peace with the headman of
Báng-plásoi, a district on the north, and with Kambuja and Annam (or
Cochin China) on the south-east.”
Such is the short historical sketch, given by the late King of Siam, up
to this date, and which we must complete from other sources.
As much by stratagem as by force of arms, he gained possession of the
northern districts; but, not deeming himself secure enough from hostile
attacks in that part of the country, he decided on falling back towards
the south, and established himself at Bangkok, having previously
surprised and put to death Phrá-Nai-Kông, the Burman governor of that
place, and seized on a quantity of money, provisions, and ammunition.
Its proximity to the sea afforded many advantages, one being that
escape would be tolerably easy should fortune prove adverse to him. He
there built a palace on the western bank of the river, near the fort,
which is now standing.
After various encounters with the Burmans, he reduced them into
subjection, mainly through the assistance of his flotilla; and on one
occasion he overpowered their whole camp, recovering great part of the
booty they had amassed, and finally freeing the country from those
bitter foes, who had brought into it so much desolation and terror.
The people, in gratitude to their deliverer, gladly aided him in his
assumption of royal authority. He issued his mandates from Bangkok,
appointed viceroys, and distributed colonists far and wide for the
repeopling of the country. Thus, by the end of 1768, he found himself
sovereign of all the southern part of Siam and the eastern provinces on
the shores of the Gulf.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt from a Photograph.
DETAILS OF THE PAGODA WAT-CHANG AT BANGKOK.]
Profiting by a sanguinary war between China and Burmah, he reconquered
the northern district of Horahh. He had still to contend with a revolt
organised by a prince of the old dynasty, who, pending the struggle
with the Burmans, had taken refuge in Ceylon. This, however, was
soon quelled; and two more provinces were recovered, which had taken
advantage of the foreign invasion to assert their independence. At the
end of three years Phya-Jak was master of the whole of the north,
and had everywhere re-established peace and order. His dominion being
now set on a firm foundation, it was a comparatively easy matter
successfully to resist a new attack of the Burmans in 1771; and the
year following he sent an expedition into the Malay peninsula to take
possession of Lagor, whose governor, formerly a vassal of the king,
had assumed the sovereignty, and proclaimed Phya-Jak a usurper. The
governor, being worsted in several engagements, took refuge with the
chief of Patawi, a town in the peninsula, by whom he was surrendered
to the followers of Phya-Jak. The king himself, meanwhile, had entered
Lagor, made captives of all the governor’s family, and carried off
his treasures. Among his relatives was a daughter possessed of great
beauty: the King gave her a place in his harem; and, through her
intercession, her father and all the family were spared. Three or four
years afterwards she procured his reinstatement as prince of that
district, which at the present day is governed by his descendants.
Phya-Jak’s reign did not end happily: in the latter part of his life
he fell into a state of morbid melancholy, treated his subjects
with cruelty, and lost his popularity. One of his generals, Chakri,
commanding in Cambodia, took advantage of these circumstances to
concert a plot against the King, who was taken prisoner at Bangkok,
and assassinated in the year 1782. Chakri ascended the throne, and,
dying soon afterwards, was succeeded by his son. The old quarrels
with the Burmans were renewed about some disputed districts on the
northern frontier; and the Siamese monarch came victoriously out of two
encounters, but, in a third, was overcome, and lost the western part of
the country lying towards Burmah.
This king died in 1809, and his son and successor, fearing, or
feigning to dread, conspiracies against him, put to death one hundred
and seventeen Siamese nobles, among whom were several generals who
had fought by his father’s side against the Burmans. This atrocious
massacre, and the murder of a cousin much beloved by the people,
alienated their affections from him. In other respects he ruled with
wisdom and moderation: keeping in check the turbulent Malays, he also
successfully repulsed the incursions of the Burmans, bringing his
prisoners to Bangkok, where he gave them lands to cultivate, and thus
extended his capital.
The English Government, wishing to form a commercial treaty with this
prince, sent Mr. Crawfurd on a mission to Siam; but although that
gentleman obtained much interesting information respecting the country,
he failed in attaining his purpose. Allowed to remain with his suite
for some time at Bangkok, they were treated rather as prisoners than
guests. Their propositions were rejected; and the only concession
obtained from his Majesty was a promise not to increase the export
and import duties, the entire abolition of which had been the object
of the negotiation. The King died in 1824, and was succeeded by his
illegitimate son, Crom-Chiat.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Catenacci, from a Photograph.
RUINS AT AYUTHIA.]
TREATY WITH GREAT BRITAIN.
This prince, although he feared the English, saw the advantages
of an extended commerce, and, in 1826, concluded a treaty with Great
Britain, then represented by Captain Burney; but it did not effect
all that had been desired. Direct mercantile intercourse between the
two countries was certainly guaranteed, and assistance in all cases
of shipwreck on the coast; but English subjects, during their stay,
were to be subject to the laws of the empire; and in each province the
commerce could be extended or limited at the will of the governor.
As these functionaries constantly infringed the terms of the treaty,
and imposed heavy charges on the native articles exported, as well as
on British goods introduced, disappointment naturally resulted; and
the Siamese, fearing a resort to arms on the part of England, made
preparations for defence, and fortified the mouth of the Menam.
MISSIONS IN SIAM.
Meanwhile France was attempting to resume her old intercourse with
Siam; but at first great distrust was manifested of the Catholic
missionaries. In 1780 they had been ordered, on pain of death, to
quit the kingdom; they retired for a time, but again gradually
insinuated themselves, and met with considerable success. We owe to
Mgr. Pallegoix, in addition to an interesting relation of the progress
of the mission, very important information concerning this empire in
the far East--its literature, and the character and the manners of the
inhabitants. He established there seven churches and four chapels; a
seminary in which are thirty native pupils, several other schools, and
four monasteries; and has baptized eight thousand Siamese. The King,
annoyed at the advance of the new religion, issued, in 1848, an edict
against the missionaries, commanding the destruction of all their
places of worship; but it was very partially carried into execution.
The Protestant mission has had a more restricted sphere of action.
The celebrated Dr. Gutzlaff made a long stay at Bangkok in 1828, and
finished there his translation of the New Testament into Siamese. This
work was published at Singapore, and has since been widely circulated.
In 1830 he revisited Siam, and translated the greater part of the
Scriptures into the languages of Cambodia and Laos. At his request the
American Baptists founded the first Protestant mission at Siam; the
Presbyterians established a second in 1840; and a third was founded, in
1850, by the Society of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign
Missions. Their labours, however, have not yet been crowned with any
great success; nevertheless, by uniting to their ministerial office the
practice of medicine, they have done much good, and been favourably
received by the people.
The French priests have recently made efforts to gain an influence
over the government of Siam. At the death of the King Orom-Chiat, his
son Chao-Fa, then twenty years of age, should have been his rightful
successor, but an elder illegitimate son seized on the throne,
promising his brother to resign it in a few years. This promise not
having been fulfilled, the prince, as we have before mentioned, went
into complete retirement, and gave himself up to scientific pursuits.
He then came into contact with the Catholic missionaries, and, at their
persuasion, made himself acquainted with their religion.
ARCHBISHOP PALLEGOIX.
In 1851 the King fell ill, and, in spite of the promise to his brother,
wished to appoint one of his own sons as his successor; but he was
answered that the country had already a sovereign; and, on his decease,
Prince Chao-Fa mounted the throne, under the name of Somdet Phra. Mgr.
Pallegoix addressed to him a letter of congratulation, and presented
him with a portrait of Louis Napoleon, then President of the French
Republic. The King, in return, made him a gift of money, and revoked
the decree of banishment against the five Catholic priests; and at an
audience granted to the bishop before his departure for Europe, in
1852, he charged him with messages to Prince Louis Napoleon and the
Pope,--intrusting to him an autograph letter for the latter, written
in English, and expressing a great regard for his Holiness, as well as
his resolution to grant full toleration in his kingdom to the Catholic
religion.
He also declared to the archbishop[5] his intention of assuring to his
subjects entire religious liberty, with which view he made inquiries
from time to time respecting the work of the Catholic missionaries, so
as to protect the converted natives against the heathen governors. From
that time the friendship with France has never been interrupted, but
has become more and more intimate.
[5] Mgr. Pallegoix died April, 1862, at Bangkok, where the king had him
buried with great pomp.
TREATY WITH FRANCE.
Negotiations were commenced at Bangkok in 1856, in the name of the
French Government, which terminated in a highly satisfactory manner,
a treaty of friendship and commerce being signed on the 15th August
between the two countries, which was ratified in the following year.
The reception accorded to M. de Montigny, the French envoy, on this
occasion by the two kings, was as brilliant as it was cordial; nor was
he entertained less kindly by any of the authorities with whom he came
in contact, which proved that Siam has preserved a pleasing remembrance
of the embassies exchanged with Louis XIV.
All this augured favourably for the future friendly relations between
the two Crowns; and these were confirmed in the year 1861, when his
Siamese Majesty sent an embassy to Paris, where it arrived in June, and
was received with great magnificence.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt from a photograph
SIAMESE LADIES AT DINNER.]
COMMERCE.
A French publication[6] gave the following account of the commerce with
Siam:--“According to the information obtained from M. de Montigny,
the commercial and maritime relations between the kingdom of Siam
and Europe are capable of great development. Already more than sixty
European ships, have since 1854 entered yearly the port of Bangkok, to
which must be added a considerable number of junks and _prahus_, which
navigate the China Sea and the Malayan Archipelago. The markets of
Siam and Laos abound in natural products, such as tobacco, cotton,
sugar, spice, and dyes. The forests abound with magnificent trees,
particularly teak. By the terms of the treaty with France, the duties,
whether import or export, are but three per cent. on the value of the
merchandise. There is therefore room for hope that commerce, favoured
by the moderation of this tariff, will rapidly increase, and that the
French navy will profit by it.”
[6] ‘L’Annuaire des Deux Mondes.’ 1856-1857.
In ‘Les Annales du Commerce Extérieur’ we find the following
account:--“The greater part of the commerce of Siam, Laos, and
Cambodia is in the hands of the Chinese, who are much more active
and intelligent than the natives. Their mercantile transactions are
generally characterised by dishonesty, and we cannot too strongly warn
our traders against the frauds of every kind common in this country,
such as mixing diverse qualities, adulteration, and saturating various
articles with moisture to increase the weight. Raw silk, cotton,
and hemp, tobacco, and other merchandise sold by weight, should be
carefully examined when delivered, and always compared with the
samples, which it is prudent to demand beforehand. The treaty concluded
between the Siamese Government and France abolishes all monopolies, and
obliges the authorities to watch over the strict and faithful execution
of all bargains; therefore, in case of fraud, traders should show a
bold face and demand indemnity. They should be careful themselves to
set an example of strict probity, this being the surest way to improve
the morality of the Siamese merchants, who, in dealing with people of
proved honesty, will have less temptation to employ fraud.
“The best commerce will be, doubtless, that of barter; but it will
be difficult to carry this to any great extent, as these people have
few wants. Their ordinary dress, for example, consists simply of
drawers in the hot season, to which in winter they add one or more
scarves, to cover the upper part of the body. The dignitaries and
wealthy individuals on state occasions wear a rich suit, consisting
of drawers, vest, belt, and a large tunic. They go barefoot, rarely
having even sandals. They are not of a migratory nature, but have their
fixed habitations, and are fond of elegance and luxury. Very imitative
in their ways, they feel a pride in putting on a European dress; and
some of those made after the fashion of Louis XIV.’s reign are still
preserved, especially among the descendants of the Portuguese, who are
numerous. The uniforms of the soldiers are copied from those of Europe;
and the whole nation has a great taste for our Parisian furniture,
cotton, silk, and woollen fabrics, porcelain, china, glass, bronzes,
cutlery, ironmongery, and toys. Other articles in much esteem with
them, and exported by us, are fire-arms, side-arms, saddlery, quilts,
carpets, clocks, and windows. Our champagne, brandy, gin, and kirsch,
would find in Siam a certain and ready sale in exchange for the produce
of the country.”
TREATY WITH AMERICA.
The efforts of the Americans to obtain from the Siamese Government
favourable terms of commerce were for a time fruitless, but in 1833 a
treaty was concluded with the United States, which proved of but little
material benefit. A second embassy from the Western Republic failed
completely. Balestier, the envoy, could not even obtain an audience
from the king, and consequently was unable to deliver his letters of
credit. The Americans had been unfortunate in their choice of Balestier
as their representative, he having formerly been in a mercantile house
at Singapore, and in no favour either with the king or his ministers. A
treaty was, however, eventually concluded between the two nations.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
SIAMESE ROPE-DANCER.]
TREATY WITH ENGLAND.
Sir James Brooke, the English ambassador at Bangkok, found his advances
coldly received. Possibly the Court felt aggrieved by the attitude
assumed by that gentleman; but, whatever may have been the reason,
matters nearly approached to an open rupture. In September, 1850,
he abandoned the negotiation, and Great Britain and Siam remained
estranged, until the English Government, desirous to establish friendly
relations with the Eastern monarch, despatched Sir John Bowring to
Bangkok, with instructions to arrange a commercial treaty, which he
effected in 1855. His travels have been published in two volumes, and
contain, perhaps, the most accurate and full information we possess
of Siam. It was particularly from his acquaintance with the language
and manners of the nation that Sir John Bowring acquitted himself so
well of his task. He was received at Court with great favour, and had
several interviews with the king, whose thirst for knowledge pleased
him, and whose good will he managed to secure. In all his negotiations
with the Siamese ministers he displayed skill and adroitness. Knowing
by experience what would be the most profitable conditions, he
succeeded in effecting the ratification of an advantageous agreement
on the 18th April, 1855, by which the Crown of Siam consented to the
appointment of a British consul at the capital, and granted entire
liberty of commerce to English merchants in all the maritime districts
of the empire. All duties were lowered; those upon opium almost
entirely abolished, provision being made that this article should
only be sold to parties specially licensed by the Government. On the
other hand, the English traders might purchase all the productions
of the country directly from the producer. It is only in times of
scarcity that the king reserves to himself the right of forbidding the
exportation of rice, salt, and fish. English subjects are permitted to
settle at Bangkok, to hold landed property there, build or purchase
houses, and to lease land to others; but this last privilege is only
accorded after a ten years’ possession.
Full toleration in religious matters was guaranteed; and if the
presence of a British ship of war was at any time thought requisite for
protection of their interests, it was permitted to lie in the Gulf, but
not to pass beyond Paknam without express leave from the Government.
INCREASED FAVOUR TO EUROPEANS.
Holland has also renewed her ancient dealings with the country, and
ratified a treaty during the present year (1862). Even before the
arrival of the Siamese ambassadors in Europe, a French publication[7]
said very justly, “The Government of Siam is showing itself more
and more favourable towards Europeans, who find at Bangkok not only
protection, but sympathy and toleration for their religion. Bangkok has
become one of the most considerable markets of Asia; and the kingdom
of Siam is reaping the reward of the liberal politics which it has
introduced into the extreme East, and which is warmly seconded by
France, England, and the United States.”
[7] ‘L’Annuaire des Deux Mondes.’ 1858-1859.
CHAPTER III.
VOYAGE UP THE MENAM TO AYUTHIA THE ANCIENT CAPITAL--THE
RUINS--EXCURSION TO MOUNT PHRABAT--ITS TEMPLE--ITS SACRED AND
GEOLOGICAL FOOTSTEPS--SARABURI AND PATAVI.
After my visits of ceremony to the two kings, I hastened to finish the
preparations for my voyage. I bought a light boat capable of holding
all my chests, reserving a narrow space for myself, and another for
the bipeds and quadrupeds forming my adopted family--viz., two rowers,
one of whom also officiated as cook, a parroquet, an ape, and a dog.
One of the boatmen was a Cambodian, and the other an Annamite, both
Christians, and knowing a few words of Latin[8] and English, so that,
as I had already picked up a little Siamese, I could make myself pretty
well understood.
[8] Latin is much esteemed among the native Christians, thanks to the
ritual of the Catholic mission.
VOYAGE UP THE MENAM.
On the 19th October I quitted Bangkok, and commenced my voyage up the
Menam. The current runs very strongly at this season, and it took us
five days to go about seventy miles. At night we suffered terribly from
the mosquitoes, and even during the day had to keep up an incessant
fanning to drive off these pestilent little vampires. They were so
numerous that you could catch them by handfuls, and their humming
resembled that of a hive of bees. These insects are the curse of all
tropical countries, but here they peculiarly abound in the marshes and
lands covered with slime and mud left by the retiring waters, where the
heat of the sun and the moisture combined, favour their rapid increase.
My legs suffered especially from their attacks.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
THE INUNDATION OF THE MENAM.]
As the country was entirely inundated, we could not land anywhere, and
even after killing a bird I frequently could not get at it. All this
was very tantalising, for the banks of the stream are very gay and
attractive, nature wearing here her richest dress.
At this time of the year the rains have entirely ceased, and do not
return for several months. For some days the north-eastern monsoon
had been blowing, the weather was constantly fine, and the heat
tempered by the wind. The waters, also, were beginning to subside.
It was the period of the religious _fêtes_ of the Siamese, and the
river was almost incessantly crowded with long and handsome boats
bearing flags, many of them manned by more than fifty rowers, all
in new and bright-coloured dresses, trying to pass each other, and
exciting themselves by piercing cries and all sorts of noises. In some
cases, however, sweet and agreeable music formed an accompaniment more
grateful to the ear. One boat, belonging to a mandarin, was escorted by
a number of others; it was remarkable for its elaborate carving and the
magnificence of its gilding, and was carrying yellow stuffs and other
presents to the neighbouring pagodas.
The king rarely shows himself in public more than twice a year, once
during the month of October, and a second time on board his barge,
when a procession is formed consisting of three or four hundred boats,
often containing more than 1200 persons. The effect produced by this
aquatic pageant, with the rowers in their brilliant dresses, and the
multitude of rich flags, is extremely gorgeous, and such as is only to
be witnessed in the East.
I was surprised to see the gaiety and light-heartedness of the people,
in spite of the yoke which weighs on them and the exorbitant taxes they
have to pay; but the softness of the climate, the native gentleness of
the race, and the long duration of their servitude from generation to
generation, have made them oblivious of the bitterness and hardships
inseparable from despotism.
Everywhere they were making preparations for their fishing season, for
when the waters subside from the fields, the fish are most plentiful.
Dried in the sun, they furnish food for the whole year, and are also
exported in large quantities. My boat was so encumbered with chests,
boxes, and instruments, that the space left for me was very confined,
and I suffered from heat and want of air; but these were trifles
compared with the mosquitoes.
ARRIVAL AT AYUTHIA.
On arriving at Ayuthia, my rowers conducted me direct to the excellent
Father Larmandy, a French missionary, by whom I was expected. The good
priest received me with great kindness, and placed at my disposal all
he had to offer in his little house. He employs his leisure time in the
study of natural history and in hunting, and frequently accompanied
me in my rambles. As we explored the woods we talked of our own
charming country--France.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Beaumont, from a Photograph.
RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA.]
AYUTHIA.
After a long hunting or rowing expedition, we always, on our return
home, found our repast prepared by my servant Niou, who excelled in
Siamese cookery, and which our fatigue made us doubly appreciate. Rice
and omelette, or curried fish, bamboo-stalks, haricots, and other wild
vegetables, formed our diet, with the addition of roast fowls and game
when the chase had been fortunate. Three chickens cost a “fuand” (37
centimes).
The heat was sometimes overwhelming; for a week we had 90 degrees
of Fahrenheit in the shade throughout the twenty-four hours, but
the mosquitoes were fewer in number, which was a great relief. In
our excursions we visited some ruins amid the woods, and I made a
collection of beautiful butterflies, and found several insects new to
me. When I reach Pakpriau, which is a few days’ journey to the north,
on the frontier of the lake, I shall find a mountain country, where I
am sure of a plentiful harvest of insects and land shells.
The comet, which I had already observed on my journey, shone here with
increased brilliancy, and it was difficult not to believe that the
extreme heat was owing to the influence of this meteor.
I drank nothing but tea, hoping by abstinence from cold water and from
all wine and spirits, to escape fever. So far, my health had certainly
never been better, not even in the north of Russia. Since the ports
have been opened to English and other European vessels everything
has been doubled in price, but still remained cheap as compared with
Europe, and I did not spend more than a franc a day for my own living
and that of my men. The people flocked to see my collections, and could
not imagine what I should do with so many animals and insects. I have
before mentioned the skilful management of boats, and the fearlessness
in swimming and diving, displayed by very young children. I used to
amuse myself by offering some of them my cigar-ends to smoke, in return
for which they would run after butterflies, and bring them to me
uninjured.
REMARKABLE SPIDER.
I discovered here a sort of spider, which is also, I believe, found at
the Cape, from which a silken thread may be drawn out by taking hold of
the end hanging from its body. One has but to go on winding; the thread
is very strong, and never breaks.
It requires some time to become accustomed to the shrill chirpings
during the night of myriads of grasshoppers and other insects, which
seem never to sleep. There appears to be no such thing as silence or
repose; everywhere is a continual stir, the gushing overflow of life in
this exuberant region.
What a contrast between the subdued tints and cold skies of Europe,
and this burning clime and glittering firmament! How pleasant it was
to rise in the early morning before the glowing sun had begun his
course; and sweeter still in the evening to listen to the thousand
sounds, the sharp and metallic cries, which seemed as though an army of
goldsmiths were at work!
The people here might be extremely happy, were they not kept in such
abject slavery; bountiful nature, that second mother, treats them as
her spoilt children, and does all for them. The forests abound with
vegetables and exquisite fruits; the rivers, the lakes, and the ponds
teem with fish; a few bamboos suffice to construct a house; while the
periodical inundations render the lands wonderfully fertile. Man has
but to sow and to plant; the sun saves him all further trouble; and he
neither knows nor feels the want of all those articles of luxury which
form part of the very existence of a European.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. J. Lange, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
ELEPHANTS IN AN ENCLOSURE OR “PARK” AT AYUTHIA.]
ARRIVAL AT ARAJIK.
On the 13th November we arrived at a village called Arajik, where the
land was more elevated. Here I killed several white squirrels, animals
which I had not met with in the neighbourhood of Bangkok. It is only
in the solitude and depth of the woods that one can fully admire and
enter into the sort of harmony and concord which reigns in the songs of
the various birds, forming such a pleasing kind of symphony that the
voice of one is rarely overpowered by that of another; one can enjoy
at once the general effect and the melodious note of the particular
winged musician we prefer. Scarcely does the sun begin to gild the tops
of the trees, when, alert and gay, they commence their morning hymn.
The martins, the warblers, the drongos, and the dominicans, respond
to the turtle-doves’ cooing in the highest branches. Music of a less
dulcet nature is discoursed by the aquatic and rapacious tribes, such
as cranes, herons, and kingfishers, who from time to time utter their
piercing cries.
VISIT TO MOUNT PHRABAT.
I procured a guide in the mandarin of the village, who received me
courteously, and offered me, in return for some trifling presents, a
breakfast of rice, fish, and bananas. I requested his aid in arranging
my purposed visit to Mount Phrabat, a favourite object of pilgrimage
among the Siamese, who resort thither yearly in great numbers to adore
the sacred footprint of Buddha. He volunteered to accompany me, an
offer which I gratefully accepted.
MOUNT PHRABAT.
The next morning, at seven o’clock, my host was waiting for me at the
door, with elephants mounted by their drivers, and other attendants
necessary for our expedition. At the same hour in the evening we
reached our destination, and, before many minutes had elapsed, all the
inhabitants were informed of our arrival; priests and mountaineers were
all full of curiosity to look at the stranger. Among the principal
people of the place I distributed some little presents, with which they
were delighted; but my fire-arms and other weapons were especially the
subject of admiration. I paid a visit to the prince of the mountain,
who was detained at home by illness. He ordered breakfast for me; and,
expressing his regret at not being able to accompany me, sent four men
to serve as guides and assistants. As a return for his kindness and
urbanity I presented him with a small pistol, which he received with
extreme gratification.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Catenacci, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
ROCK AT THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT PHRABAT.]
TEMPLE ON MOUNT PHRABAT.
We proceeded afterwards to the western side of the mountain, where
is the famous temple containing the footprint of Samona-Kodom, the
Buddha of Indo-China. I was filled with astonishment and admiration on
arriving at this point, and feel utterly incapable of describing the
spectacle which met my view. What convulsion of Nature--what force
could have upheaved those immense rocks, piled one upon another in such
fantastic forms? Beholding such a chaos, I could well understand how
the imagination of this simple people, who are ignorant of the true
God, should have here discovered signs of the marvellous, and traces
of their false divinities. It was as if a second and recent Deluge had
just abated; this sight alone was enough to recompense me for all my
fatigues.
On the mountain summit, in the crevices of the rocks, in the valleys,
in the caverns, all around, could be seen the footprints of animals,
those of elephants and tigers being most strongly marked; but I am
convinced that many of them were formed by antediluvian and unknown
animals. All these creatures, according to the Siamese, formed the
_cortège_ of Buddha in his passage over the mountain.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Catenacci, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
RELICS FOUND ON MOUNT PHRABAT.]
As for the temple itself, there is nothing remarkable about it; it
is like most of the pagodas in Siam--on the one hand unfinished, and
on the other in a state of dilapidation; and it is built of brick,
although both stone and marble abound at Phrabat. The approach to it
is by a flight of large steps, and the walls are covered with little
pieces of coloured glass, forming arabesques in great variety, which
glitter in the sun with striking effect. The panels and cornices are
gilt; but what chiefly attracts attention by the exquisite workmanship
are the massive ebony doors, inlaid with mother-of-pearl of different
colours, and arranged in beautiful designs. The interior of the temple
does not correspond with the outside; the floor is covered with silver
matting, and the walls bear traces of gilding, but they are blackened
by time and smoke. A catafalque rises in the centre, surrounded with
strips of gilded serge, and there is to be seen the famous footprint
of Buddha. To this sacred spot the pilgrims bring their offerings, cut
paper, cups, dolls, and an immense number of toys, many of them being
wrought in gold and silver.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Catenacci, from a sketch by M. Mouhot.
PAGODA AT MOUNT PHRABAT, WHERE IS PRESERVED THE FOOTPRINT OF BUDDHA.]
After staying a week on the mountain, and adding many pretty and
interesting objects to my collection, our party returned to Arajik, the
Prince of Phrabat insisting on sending another guide with me, although
my friend the mandarin, with his attendants and elephants, had kindly
remained to escort me back to his village. There I again partook of his
hospitality, and, taking leave of him the day following, I resumed my
voyage up the river. Before night I arrived at Saraburi, the chief town
of the province of Pakpriau, and the residence of the governor.
SARABURI.
Saraburi is a place of some extent, the population consisting chiefly
of Siamese, Chinese, and Laotian agriculturists; and consists, like
all towns and villages in Siam, of houses constructed of bamboo. They
peep out, half hidden among the foliage along the banks of the river;
beyond are rice-plantations, and, farther in the background, extensive
forests, inhabited solely by wild animals.
On the morning of the 26th we passed Pakpriau, near which the cataracts
begin. The waters were still high, and we had much trouble to fight
against the current. A little to the north of this town I met with a
poor family of Laotian Christians, of whom the good Father Larmandy
had spoken to me.[9] We moored our boat near their house, hoping
that it would remain in safety while I explored the mountains in the
neighbourhood, and visited Patawi, which is the resort of the Laotian
pilgrims, as Phrabat is of the Siamese.
[9] Father Larmandy was the interpreter of the Siamese embassy to
France in 1860-1861.
WILD ANIMALS.
All the country from the banks of the river to the hills, a distance
of about eight or nine miles, and the whole surface of this mountain
range, is covered with brown iron-ore and aërolites; where they
occur in the greatest abundance, vegetation is scanty and consists
principally of bamboo, but it is rich and varied in those places
where the detritus has formed a thicker surface of soil. The dense
forests furnish gum and oil, which would be valuable for commerce if
the indolent natives could be prevailed on to collect them. They are,
however, infested with leopards, tigers, and tiger-cats. Two dogs and
a pig were carried off from the immediate vicinity of the hut of the
Christian guardians of our boat during our stay at Pakpriau; but the
following day I had the pleasure of making the offending leopard pay
for the robbery with his life, and his skin served me for a mat.
Where the soil is damp and sandy I found numerous traces of these
animals, but those of the royal tiger are more uncommon. During the
night the inhabitants dare not venture out of doors; but in the
day-time the creatures, satisfied with the fruits of their predatory
rambles, skulk into their dens in the recesses of the woods. One day
I went to explore the eastern part of the chain of Pakpriau, and,
becoming excited in the chase of a wild boar, we soon lost ourselves
in the forest. The animal made his way through the brushwood much more
easily than we could--encumbered as we were with guns, hatchets, and
boxes--and we ere long missed the scent. By the terrified cries of
the monkeys we knew we could not be far from some tiger or leopard,
doubtless, like ourselves, in search of prey; and, as night was drawing
in, it became necessary to retrace our steps homeward for fear of some
disagreeable adventure. With all our efforts, however, we could not
find the path. We were far from the border of the forest, and were
forced to take up our abode in a tree, among the branches of which we
made a sort of hammock. On the following morning we regained the river.
WALK TO PATAWI.
I endeavoured fruitlessly to obtain oxen or elephants to carry our
baggage with a view of exploring the country, but all beasts of
burden were in use for the rice-harvest. I therefore left my boat
and its contents in charge of the Laotian family, and we set off,
like pilgrims, on foot for Patawi on a fine morning with a somewhat
cloudy sky, which recalled to me the pleasant autumn days of my own
country. My only companions were Küe and my young Laotian guide. We
followed for three hours, through forests infested with wild beasts,
the road to Korat, and at last reached Patawi. As at Phrabat, there
is a bell, both at the foot of the mount and at the entrance of a
long and wide avenue leading to the pagoda, which the pilgrims ring
on arriving, to inform the good genii of their presence and bespeak a
favourable hearing to their prayers. The mount is isolated, and about
450 feet in height; its formation is similar to that of Phrabat, but,
although its appearance is equally grand, it presents distinct points
of variation. Here are not to be seen those masses of rock, piled one
upon another, as if hurled by the giants in a combat like that fabled
of old. Patawi seems to be composed of one enormous rock, which rises
almost perpendicularly like a wall, excepting the centre portion, which
towards the south hangs over like a roof, projecting eighteen or twenty
feet. At the first glance might be recognised the action of water upon
a soil originally clay.
[Illustration:
Drawn By M. Catenacci, from a sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF KORAT, TAKEN FROM PATAWI.]
VISIT TO PATAWI.
There are many footprints similar to those of Phrabat, and in several
places are to be seen entire trunks of trees in a state of petrifaction
lying close to growing individuals of the same species. They have all
the appearance of having been just felled, and it is only on testing
their hardness with a hammer that one feels sure of not being mistaken.
An ascent of several large stone steps leads, on the left hand, to
the pagoda, and, on the right, to the residence of the Talapoins, or
priests, who are three in number,--a superior and two assistants,
appointed to watch and pay reverence to the precious “rays” of
Somanakodom. Were the authors who have written about Buddhism ignorant
of the signification of the word “ray” employed by the Buddhists? Now,
in the Siamese language, the same word which means “ray” signifies
also shadow, and it is through respect for their deity that the first
meaning is applied.
The priests were much surprised to see a “farang” (foreigner) in their
pagoda, but some trifling gifts soon established me in their good
graces. The superior was particularly charmed with a magnet which I
gave him, and amused himself with it for a long time, uttering cries of
delighted admiration as he saw it attract and pick up all the little
pieces of metal which he placed near it.
I went to the extreme north of the mount, where some generous being has
kindly had constructed, for the shelter of travellers, a hall, such as
is found in many places near pagodas. The view here is indescribably
splendid, and I cannot pretend to do justice either with pen or pencil
to the grand scenes which here and elsewhere were displayed before
my eyes. I can but seize the general effect and some of the details;
all I can promise to do is to introduce nothing which I have not
seen. Hitherto all the views I had seen in Siam had been limited in
extent, but here the beauty of the country is exhibited in all its
splendour. Beneath my feet was a rich and velvety carpet of brilliant
and varied colours; an immense tract of forest, amidst which the fields
of rice and the unwooded spots appeared like little streaks of green;
beyond, the ground, rising gradually, swells into hills of different
elevations; farther still to the north and east, in the form of a
semicircle, is the mountain-chain of Phrabat and that of the kingdom
of Muang-Lôm; and in the extreme distance those of Korat, fully sixty
miles distant. All these join one another, and are, in fact, but a
single range. But how describe the varieties of form among all these
peaks! In one place they seem to melt into the vapoury rose-tints of
the horizon, while nearer at hand the peculiar structure and colour
of the rocks bring out more strongly the richness of the vegetation;
there, again are deep shadows vying with the deep blue of the heaven
above; everywhere those brilliant sunny lights, those delicate hues,
those warm tones, which make the _tout ensemble_ perfectly enchanting.
The spectacle is one which the eye of a painter can seize and revel in,
but which his brush, however skilful, can transfer most imperfectly to
his canvas.
At the sight of this unexpected panorama a cry of admiration burst
simultaneously from all mouths. Even my poor companions, generally
insensible to the beauties of nature, experienced a moment of ecstacy
at the sublimity of the scene. “Oh! _di, di_” (beautiful), cried my
young Laotian guide; and when I asked Küe what he thought of it,
“Oh! master,” he replied, in his mixed jargon of Latin, English, and
Siamese, “the Siamese see Buddha on a stone, and do not see God in
these grand things. I am pleased to have been to Patawi.”
On the opposite side, viz. the south, the picture is different. Here
is a vast plain, which extends from the base of Patawi and the other
mountains beyond Ayuthia, whose high towers are visible in the
distance, 120 miles off. At the first glance one distinguishes what was
formerly the bed of the sea, this great plain having taken the place of
an ancient gulf: proof of which is afforded by numerous marine shells,
many of which I collected in a perfect state of preservation; while the
rocks, with their footprints and fossil shells, are indicative of some
great change at a still earlier period.
[Illustration: LAOTIAN.]
THE LAOTIANS.
Every evening some of the good Laotian mountaineers came to see the
“farang.” These Laotians differ slightly from the Siamese: they are
more slender, have the cheek-bones more prominent, and have also darker
complexions. They wear their hair long, while the Siamese shave half
of the head, leaving the hair to grow only on the top. They deserve
praise for their intrepidity as hunters, if they have not that of
warriors. Armed with a cutlass or bow--with which latter weapon they
adroitly launch, to a distance of one hundred feet, balls of clay
hardened in the sun, they wander about their vast forests, undismayed
by the jaguars and tigers infesting them. The chase is their principal
amusement, and, when they can procure a gun and a little Chinese
powder, they track the wild boar, or, lying in wait for the tiger or
the deer, perch themselves on a tree or in a little hut raised on
bamboo stakes.
Their poverty borders on misery, but it mainly results from excessive
indolence, for they will only cultivate just sufficient rice for their
support; this done, they pass the rest of their time in sleep, lounging
about the woods, or making excursions from one village to another,
paying visits to their friends on the way.
ACCOUNT OF KORAT.
At Patawi I heard much of Korat, which is the capital of the province
of the same name, situated five days’ journey north-east of Pakpriau,
that is about 120 miles; and I determined, if possible, to visit it by
and by. It appears to be a rich country, producing, especially, silk
of good quality. Caoutchouc-trees abound, but are neglected by the
inhabitants, who are probably ignorant of their value. I brought back a
magnificent specimen of the gum, which was much admired by the English
merchants at Bangkok. Living, according to report, is fabulously cheap:
six fowls may be purchased for a _fuang_ (37 centimes), 100 eggs for
the same sum, and all other things in proportion. But to get there one
has to cross the famous forest of “the King of the Fire,” which is
visible from the top of Patawi, and it is only in the dry season that
it is safe to attempt this; during the rains both the water and the
atmosphere are fatally pestilential. The superstitious Siamese do not
dare to use fire-arms there, from fear of attracting evil spirits who
would kill them.
During all the time I spent on the top of the mountain the chief priest
was unremitting in his attentions to me. He had my luggage carried into
his own room, gave me up his mats to add to mine, and in other ways
practised self-denial to make me as comfortable as was in his power.
The priests complain much of the cold in the rainy season, and of the
torrents which then rush from the summit of the mountain; they are
also greatly disturbed by the tigers, which, driven from the plains
by the inundations, take refuge on the high ground, and carry away
their dogs and fowls out of the very houses. But their visits are not
confined to that period of the year. About ten o’clock on the second
night of my stay the dogs suddenly began to utter plaintive howls. “A
tiger! a tiger!” cried my Laotian, who was lying near me. I started up,
seized my gun, and half-opened the door; but the profound darkness made
it impossible to see anything, or to go out without uselessly exposing
myself. I therefore contented myself with firing off my gun to frighten
the creature. The next morning we found one of our dogs gone.
RETURN TO BANGKOK.
We scoured the neighbourhood for about a week, and then set off once
more by water for Bangkok, as I wished to put my collections in order
and send them off.
The places which two months previously had been deep in water were
now dry; and everywhere, around their dwellings, the people were
digging their gardens and beginning to plant vegetables. The horrible
mosquitoes had reappeared in greater swarms than ever, and I pitied my
poor servants, who, after rowing all day, could obtain no rest at night.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
SIAMESE NURSE AND BABY.]
During the day, especially in the neighbourhood of Pakpriau, the heat
was intense, the thermometer being ordinarily at 90° Fahrenheit (28°
Reaumur) in the shade, and 140° Fahrenheit (49° Reaumur) in the sun.
Luckily, we had no longer to contend with the current, and our boat,
though heavily laden, proceeded rapidly. We were about three hours’
sail from Bangkok, when I perceived a couple of European boats, and in
a room built for travellers near a pagoda I recognised three English
captains of my acquaintance, one of whom had brought me to Singapore.
They were, with their wives, enjoying a picnic, and, on seeing me,
insisted on my joining them and partaking of the repast.
I reached Bangkok the same day, and was still uncertain as to a
lodging, when M. Wilson, the courteous Danish Consul, came to me, and
kindly offered the hospitality of his magnificent house.
SANITARY CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY.
I consider the part of the country which I had just passed through,
extremely healthy, except, perhaps, during the rains. It appears
that in this season the water, flowing down from the mountains and
passing over a quantity of poisonous detritus, becomes impregnated
with mineral substances, gives out pestilential miasmata, and causes
the terrible jungle-fever, which, if it does not at once carry off
the victim, leaves behind it years of suffering. My journey, as has
been seen, took place at the end of the rainy season and when the
floods were subsiding; some deleterious exhalations, doubtless, still
escaped, and I saw several natives attacked with intermittent fever,
but I had not had an hour’s illness. Ought I to attribute this immunity
to the regimen I observed and which had been strongly recommended to
me--abstinence, all but total, from wine and spirits, and drinking
only tea, never cold water? I think so; and I believe by such a course
one is in no great danger.[10]
[10] See the obituary notice.
VOYAGE TO CHANTABOUN.
A FATAL ACCIDENT.
My intention now was to visit Cambodia, but for this purpose my little
river-boat was of no use. The only way of going to Chantaboun was
by embarking in one of the small Chinese junks or fishing-vessels,
which I accordingly did on the 28th December, taking with me a new
servant called Nion, a native of Annam, and who, having been brought
up at the college of the Catholic priests at Bangkok, knew French
well enough to be very useful to me as an interpreter. The boat was
inconveniently small, and we were far from comfortable; for, besides
myself and servant, there were on board two men, and two children
about thirteen. I was much pleased with the picturesque aspect of all
the little islands in the gulf; but our voyage was far longer than we
expected, three days being its usual duration, while owing to a strong
head-wind it occupied us for eight. We met with an accident which was
fatal to one of our party, and might have been so to all of us. On the
night of the 31st December our boat was making rapid way under the
influence of a violent wind. I was seated on the little roof of leaves
and interlaced bamboos which formed a sort of protection to me against
the rain and cold night-air, bidding adieu to the departing year and
welcoming in the new one; praying that it might be a fortunate one for
me, and, above all, that it might be full of blessings for all those
dear to me. The night was dark; we were but two miles from land, and
the mountains loomed black in the distance. The sea alone was brilliant
with that phosphoric light so familiar to all voyagers on the deep.
For a couple of hours we had been followed by two sharks, who left
behind them a luminous and waving track. All was silent in our boat;
nothing was to be heard but the wind whistling among the rigging and
the rushing of the waves; and I felt at that midnight hour--alone, and
far from all I loved--a sadness which I vainly tried to shake off, and
a disquietude which I could not account for. Suddenly we felt a violent
shock, immediately followed by a second, and then the vessel remained
stationary. Every one cried out in alarm; the sailors rushed forward;
in a moment the sail was furled and torches lighted, but, sad to say,
one of our number did not answer to his name. One of the young boys,
who had been asleep on deck, had been thrown into the sea by the shock.
Uselessly we looked for the poor lad, whose body doubtless became the
prey of the sharks. Fortunately for us, only one side of the boat had
touched the rock, and it had then run aground on the sand; so that
after getting it off we were able to anchor not far from the shore.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot
PORT OF CHANTABOUN.]
THE LION ROCK.
On the 3rd January, 1859, after having crossed the little gulf of
Chantaboun, the sea being at the time very rough, we came in sight of
the famous Lion rock, which stands out like the extremity of a cape
at the entrance of this port. From a distance it resembles a lion
couchant, and it is difficult to believe that Nature unassisted has
formed this singular Colossus. The Siamese--a superstitious race--hold
this stone in great veneration, as they do everything that appears to
them extraordinary or marvellous. It is said that the captain of an
English ship, once anchored in the port, seeing the lion, proposed to
buy it, and that, on the governor of the place refusing the offer,
he pitilessly fired all his guns at _the poor animal_. This has been
recorded in Siamese verse, with a touching complaint against the
cruelty of the Western barbarians.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M Mouhot.
THE LION ROCK AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE PORT OF CHANTABOUN.]
CHAPTER IV.
CHANTABOUN--ITS PRODUCTS AND COMMERCE--APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY--THE
ISLES OF KO-MAN--ISLES OF PATATES--THE ISLAND OF KO KRAM--PAKNAM
VEN--MANNER IN WHICH THE APES PLAY WITH THE CROCODILES.
On the 4th January, at eight o’clock in the morning, we arrived at
the town of Chantaboun, which stands on the bank of the river, six
or seven miles from the mountain range. The Christian Annamites
form nearly a third of the population, the remainder being composed
of Chinese merchants, and some heathen Annamites and Siamese. The
Annamites are all fishers, who originally came from Cochin China
to fish in the northern part of the Gulf of Siam, and settled at
Chantaboun. Every day, while the cold weather lasts and the sea is not
too rough, they cast their nets in the little bays on the coast, or in
the sheltered water among the islands.
EAGLE-WOOD.
The commerce of this province is inconsiderable, compared with what
it might be from its situation; but the numerous taxes, the grinding
exactions of the chiefs, and the usury of the mandarins, added to the
hateful system of slavery, keep the bulk of the people in a ruinous
state of prostration. However, in spite of a scanty population, they
manage to export to Bangkok a great quantity of pepper, chiefly
cultivated by the Chinese at the foot of the mountains; a little
sugar and coffee of superior quality; mats made of rushes, which meet
with a ready sale in China; tobacco, great quantities of salted and
dried fish, dried leeches, and tortoiseshell. Every Siamese subject,
on attaining a certain height, has to pay to Government an impost
or annual tribute equivalent to six ticals (eighteen francs). The
Annamites of Chantaboun pay this in eagle-wood, and the Siamese in
gamboge; the Chinese in gum-lac, every four years, and their tribute
amounts to four ticals. At the close of the rainy season the Annamite
Christians unite in parties of fifteen or twenty, and set out under the
conduct of an experienced man, who heads the expedition, and indicates
to the others the trees which contain the eagle-wood; for all are not
equally skilled in distinguishing those which produce it; a degree of
experience is requisite for this, which can only be acquired by time,
and thus much useless and painful labour is avoided. Some remain in
the mountains, others visit the large islands of Ko-Xang or Ko-Khut,
situated south-east of Chantaboun. The eagle-wood is hard and speckled,
and diffuses a powerful aromatic odour when burnt. It is used at the
incremation of the bodies of princes and high dignitaries, which are
previously kept in the coffins for a twelvemonth. The Siamese also
employ it as a medicine. The wood of the tree which yields it--the
_Aquilaria Agallocha_ of Roxburgh--is white, and very soft; and the
trunk must be cut down, or split in two, to find the eagle-wood,
which is in the interior. The Annamites make a kind of secret of
the indications by which they fix upon the right trees, but the few
instructions given me put me on the right track. I had several cut
down, and the result of my observations was, that this substance is
formed in the cavities of the trees, and that as they grow older it
increases in quantity. Its presence may be pretty surely ascertained by
the peculiar odour emitted, and the hollow sound given out on striking
the trunk.
THE ANNAMITES.
Most of the Chinese merchants are addicted to gambling, and to the
use of opium; but the Annamite Christians are better conducted. The
nature of these Annamites is very different from that of the Siamese,
who are an effeminate and indolent race, but liberal and hospitable,
simple-minded, and without pride. The Annamites are short in stature,
and thin, lively, and active; they are choleric and vindictive, and
extremely proud; even among relations there is continual strife and
jealousy. The poor and the wretched meet with no commiseration, but
great respect is accorded to wealth. However, the attachment of the
Christians to their priests and missionaries is very great, and they
do not hesitate to expose themselves to any dangers in their behalf. I
must likewise own that, in all my dealings with the pagan Annamites,
whose reverence for their ancestors induces them to hold fast their
idolatry, I experienced generosity and kindness from them, both at
Chantaboun and in the islands.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
CHAPEL OF THE MISSION, CHANTABOUN.]
The missionaries at Bangkok having given me a letter of introduction
to their fellow-labourer at Chantaboun, I had the pleasure of
making acquaintance with the worthy man, who received me with great
cordiality, and placed at my disposal a room in his modest habitation.
The good Father has resided for more than twenty years at Chantaboun,
with the Annamites whom he has baptized, content and happy amidst
indigence and solitude. I found him, on my arrival, at the height of
felicity: a new brick chapel, which had been for some time in course
of construction, and the funds required for which had been saved out
of his modest income, was rapidly progressing, and promised soon to
replace the wooden building in which he then officiated. I passed
sixteen days, very agreeably, with him, sometimes hunting on Mount
Sabab, at other times making excursions on the rivers and canals. The
country greatly resembles the province of Pakpriau, the plain being,
perhaps, still more desert and uncultivated; but at the foot of the
mountains, and in some of the delightful valleys, pepper is grown in
some quantity by the Chinese.
ISLANDS OF THE GULF.
I bought, for twenty-five ticals, a small boat to enable me to visit
the isles of the gulf. The first I landed at was named Konam-sao; it
is in the form of a cone, and nearly 250 metres[11] in height, but
only two miles in circumference. Like all the other islands in this
part of the gulf, it is of volcanic origin. The rocks which surround
it make the access difficult; but the effect produced by the richness
and bright green of the vegetation is charming. The dry season, so
agreeable for European travelling, from the freshness of the nights and
mornings, is in Siam a time of stagnation and death for all nature;
the birds fly to the neighbourhood of houses, or to the banks of the
rivers, which furnish them with nourishment; rarely does their song
come to enchant the listener; and the fishing-eagle alone utters
his hoarse and piercing cry every time the wind changes. Ants swarm
everywhere, and appear to be, with the mosquitoes and crickets, the
only insects that have escaped destruction.
[11] A metre is equivalent to 3 feet 3⅓ inches.
Nowhere did I find in these islands the slightest trace of path or
stream; and it was extremely difficult to advance at all through the
masses of wild vine and interwoven branches. I was forced to make my
way, hatchet in hand, and returned at night exhausted with the heat and
fatigue.
The greater portion of the rocks in the elevated parts of these islands
is elementary, and preserves traces of their ancient deposit beneath
the waters. They have, however, undergone considerable volcanic
changes, and contain a number of veins and irregular deposits of the
class known as contact deposits that are formed near the junction of
stratified rocks with intruded igneous masses.
KO-MAN ISLANDS.
On the 26th we set sail for the first of the Ko-Man islands, for there
are three, situated close together, bearing this name. The largest is
only twelve miles from the coast. Some fishing-eagles, a few black
doves, and a kind of white pigeon were the only winged creatures I
saw. Iguanas are numerous, and when in the evening they come out of
their retreats, they make such a noise in walking heavily over the dead
leaves and branches, that one might suppose it caused by animals of a
much larger size.
Toward evening, the tide having fallen, I allowed my boat to ground
on the mud, which I had remarked during the day to be like a peat-bog
impregnated with volcanic matter; and during the whole night so strong
a sulphureous odour escaped from it, that I imagined myself to be over
a submarine volcano.
On the 28th we passed on to the second island, which is higher and
more picturesque than the other. The rocks which surround it give it
a magnificent effect, especially in a bright sunlight, when the tide
is low. The isles of the Patates owe their name to the numerous wild
tubers found there.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW OF PAKNAM ON THE MENAM.]
I passed several days at Cape Liaut, part of the time being occupied
in exploring the many adjacent islands. It is the most exquisite part
of the gulf, and will bear comparison, for its beauty, with the strait
of Sunda, near the coast of Java. Two years ago, when the king visited
Chantaboun, they built for him on the shore, at the extremity of the
cape, a house and kiosk, and, in memory of the event, they also erected
on the top of the mountain a small tower, from which a very extensive
view may be enjoyed.
SUBMARINE VOLCANO.
I also made acquaintance with Ko-Kram, the most beautiful and the
largest of all the islands north of the gulf between Bangkok and
Chantaboun. The whole island consists of a wooded mountain-range,
easy of access, and containing much oligist iron. On the morning of
the 29th, at sunrise, the breeze lessened, and when we were about
three miles from the strait which separates the isle of Arec from
that of the “Cerfs,” it ceased altogether. For the last half-hour we
were indebted solely to our oars for the little progress made, being
exposed to all the glare of a burning sun; and the atmosphere was
heavy and suffocating. All of a sudden, to my great astonishment, the
water began to be agitated, and our light boat was tossed about by the
waves. I knew not what to think, and was seriously alarmed, when our
pilot called out, “Look how the sea boils!” Turning in the direction
indicated, I beheld the sea really in a state of ebullition, and very
shortly afterwards an immense jet of water and steam, which lasted for
several minutes, was thrown into the air. I had never before witnessed
such a phenomenon, and was now no longer astonished at the powerful
smell of sulphur which had nearly overpowered me in Ko-Man. It was
really a submarine volcano, which burst out more than a mile from the
place where we had anchored three days before.
On March 1st we reached Ven-Ven, at Paknam-Ven, the name of the place
where the branches of the river unite. This river, whose width at
the mouth is above three miles, is formed by the union of several
streams flowing from the mountains, as well as by an auxiliary of the
Chantaboun river, which, serving as a canal, unites these two places.
Ascending the stream for fourteen or fifteen miles, a large village
is reached, called Bandiana, but Paknam-Ven is only inhabited by five
families of Chinese fishermen.
THE CROCODILE AND THE APES.
Crocodiles are more numerous in the river at Paknam-Yen than in that
of Chantaboun. I continually saw them throw themselves from the banks
into the water; and it has frequently happened that careless fishers,
or persons who have imprudently fallen asleep on the shore, have become
their prey, or have afterwards died of the wounds inflicted by them.
This latter has happened twice during my stay here. It is amusing,
however--for one is interested in observing the habits of animals all
over the world--to see the manner in which these creatures catch the
apes, which sometimes take a fancy to play with them. Close to the bank
lies the crocodile, his body in the water, and only his capacious mouth
above the surface, ready to seize anything that may come within reach.
A troop of apes catch sight of him, seem to consult together, approach
little by little, and commence their frolics, by turns actors and
spectators. One of the most active or most impudent jumps from branch
to branch till within a respectful distance of the crocodile, when,
hanging by one claw, and with the dexterity peculiar to these animals,
he advances and retires, now giving his enemy a blow with his paw, at
another time only pretending to do so. The other apes, enjoying the
fun, evidently wish to take a part in it; but the other branches being
too high, they form a sort of chain by laying hold of each other’s
paws, and thus swing backwards and forwards, while any one of them who
comes within reach of the crocodile torments him to the best of his
ability. Sometimes the terrible jaws suddenly close, but not upon the
audacious ape, who just escapes; then there are cries of exultation
from the tormentors, who gambol about joyfully. Occasionally, however,
the claw is entrapped, and the victim dragged with the rapidity of
lightning beneath the water, when the whole troop disperse, groaning
and shrieking. The misadventure does not, however, prevent their
recommencing the game a few days afterwards.
RETURN TO CHANTABOUN.
COLLECTION OF SHELLS.
On the 4th I returned to Chantaboun from my excursions in the gulf,
and resumed charge of my collections, which, during my absence, I had
left at the Custom-house, and which, to my great satisfaction, had been
taken good care of. The tide was low, and we could not go up to the
town. The sea here is steadily receding from the coast, and, if some
remedy be not found, in a few years the river will not be navigable
even for boats. Already the junks have some trouble in reaching
Chantaboun even at high water. The inhabitants were fishing for crabs
and mussels on the sand-banks close to the Custom-house, the _employés_
in which were occupied in the same pursuit. The chief official, who,
probably hoping for some small present, had come out to meet me, heard
me promise a supply of pins and needles to those who would bring me
shells, and encouraged his men to look for them. In consequence, a
large number were brought me, which, to obtain otherwise, would have
cost much time and trouble.
CHAPTER V.
LIFE IN THE HILL-COUNTRY--MOUNT SABAT--HUNTING--TIGERS--SERPENTS--RICH
VEGETATION OF CHANTABURI.
Here I am, once more installed in the house of a good old Chinese, a
pepper-planter, whose hospitality I enjoyed on my first visit to the
place, two months ago. His name is Ihié-How, but in Siamese he is
called Apait, which means _uncle_. He is a widower with two sons, the
eldest eighteen, a good young man, lively, hardworking, brave, and
persevering. He is already much attached to me, and is desirous of
accompanying me to Cambodia. Born amidst the mountains, and naturally
intelligent, there are none of the quadrupeds and few of the feathered
tribes found in the district with whose habits he is not familiar.
He fears neither tiger nor elephant. All this, added to his amiable
disposition, made Phrai (that is his name) a real treasure to me.
Apait has also two brothers who have become Catholics, and have settled
at Chantaboun in order to be near a Christian place of worship. He
himself has never had any desire to change his religion, because
he says if he did he must forget his deceased parents, for whom he
frequently offers sacrifices. He is badly off, having incurred a debt
of fifty ticals, for which he has to pay ten as yearly interest, the
rate in Siam being always twenty or thirty per cent. Besides this
he has various taxes to pay--twelve ticals for his two sons, four
for his house, one for his furnace, one for his pig. The tax on the
pepper-field is eight ticals, one on his areca-trees, one on the betel
cultivated by him, and two _sellungs_ for a cocoa-tree; altogether
thirty-nine ticals. His land brings him in forty after all expenses
are paid; what can he do with the one remaining tical? The unlucky
agriculturists of this kind, and they are many, live on vegetables, and
on the rice which they obtain from the Siamese in exchange for areca.
LIFE IN THE HILL-COUNTRY.
On my return from the islands, I had been detained nearly ten days at
Chantaboun, unable to walk; I had cut my heel in climbing the rocks
on the shore at Ko-Man, and, as I was constantly barefooted in the
salt water, the wound soon closed. But afterwards I began to suffer
from it; my foot swelled, and I was obliged to re-open the wound to
extract a piece of shell which had remained in it. As soon as I could
leave Chantaboun I hired a carriage and two buffaloes to take me to
the mountain. I experienced much gratification in finding myself again
amongst these quiet scenes, at once so lovely and so full of grandeur.
Here are valleys intersected by streams of pure and limpid water;
there, small plains, over which are scattered the modest dwellings
of the laborious Chinese; while, a little in the distance, rises the
mountain, with its imposing rocks, its grand trees, its torrents and
waterfalls.
NOCTURNAL PESTS.
We have already had some storms, for the rainy season is approaching,
vegetation is fresh, and nature animated; the song of birds and the hum
of insects are heard all around. Apait has resigned to me his bed, if
that can be so styled, which consists merely of a few laths of areca
placed upon four stakes. I have extended my mat upon this framework,
and should enjoy uninterrupted sleep all night were it not for the
swarms of ants which frequently disturb me by passing over my body,
getting under my clothes and into my beard, and, I almost fancy, would
end by dragging me out, if I did not from time to time shake them off.
Occasionally great spiders and other disgusting creatures, crawling
about under the roof, would startle me by dropping suddenly on my face.
The heat now is quite endurable, the thermometer generally marking
80° Fahr. in the morning, and 90° in the middle of the day. The water
of the streams is so cool and refreshing, that a good morning and
evening ablution makes me comfortable for several hours, as well as
contributing to keep me in health.
A CHINAMAN’S SACRIFICE.
Last evening Phrai, having gone along with my man Niou to Chantaboun
to buy provisions, brought back to his father some Chinese bonbons,
for which he had paid half a fuang. The poor old man was delighted
with them, and this morning at daybreak he dressed himself in his best
clothes, on which I asked him what was going to happen. He immediately
began to clean a plank which was fitted into the wall to serve as a
sort of table or altar. Above this was a drawing of a man dancing and
putting out his tongue, with claws on his feet and hands, and with the
tail of an ape, intended to represent his father. He then filled three
small cups with tea, put the bonbons in a fourth, and placed the whole
upon the simple altar; finally, lighting two pieces of odoriferous
wood, he began his devotions. It was a sacrifice to the manes of his
parents, performed with the hope that their souls would come and taste
the good things set before them.
At the entrance of Apait’s garden, in front of his house, I had made
a kind of shed with stakes and branches of trees, covered with a roof
of leaves, where I dried and prepared my large specimens, such as
the long-armed apes, kids, and horn-bills, as also my collections of
insects. All this has attracted a crowd of inquisitive Siamese and
Chinamen, who come to see the “farang” and admire his curiosities. We
have just passed the Chinese New Year’s-day, and, as there has been a
fête for three days, all those living at any distance have profited by
the opportunity to visit us. At times Apait’s house and garden have
been crowded with people in their holiday dresses, many of whom, seeing
my instruments, my naturalist’s case, and different preparations, took
me for a great doctor, and begged for medicines.
Alas! my pretensions are not so high; however, I treat them on the
“Raspail” system; and a little box of pomade or phial of sedative water
will perhaps be represented in some European museum by an insect or
shell brought to me by these worthy people in return for the good I
would gladly do them.
It is very agreeable, after a fatiguing day’s chase over hills and
amongst dense forests, through which one must cut one’s way axe in
hand, to repose in the evening on the good Chinaman’s bench in front of
his house, shaded by bananas, cocoanut, and other trees. For the last
four days a violent north wind, fresh in spite of the season, has been
blowing without intermission, breaking asunder and tearing up by the
roots some of the trees on the higher grounds. This is its farewell
visit, for the south-east wind will now blow for many months.
This evening everything appeared to me more beautiful and agreeable
than usual; the stars shone brightly in the sky, the moon was clear.
Sitting by Apait while his son played to me some Chinese airs on the
bamboo flute, I thought to what a height of prosperity this province,
even now one of the most interesting and flourishing in the country,
might attain, were it wisely and intelligently governed, or if European
colonists were to settle and develop its resources. Proximity to the
sea, facility of communication, a rich soil, a healthy and propitious
climate; nothing is wanting to ensure success to an industrious and
enterprising agriculturist.
A CHINESE SERVANT ENGAGED.
The worthy old Apait has at last consented to allow his son to enter
my service, provided I pay him thirty ticals, half a year’s wages,
in advance. This will enable him, if he can sell his house and
pepper-field, to clear off his debt and retire to another part of the
mountain. Phrai is delighted to attend me, and to run about the woods
all day, and I am not less pleased with our bargain, for his knowledge
of the country, his activity, his intelligence, and attachment to me,
are invaluable.
VISIT TO A WATERFALL.
The heat becomes greater and greater, the thermometer having risen to
102° Fahr. in the shade; thus hunting is now a painful, and sometimes
impossible, exertion, anywhere except in the woods. A few days ago I
took advantage of a short spell of cloudy, and consequently cooler
weather, to visit a waterfall I had heard of in the almost desert
district of Prion, twelve miles from Kombau. After reaching the
last-named place, our course lay for about an hour and a half along
a charming valley, nearly as smooth as a lawn, and as ornamental
as a park. By and by entering a forest, we kept by the banks of a
stream, which, shut in between two mountains and studded with blocks
of granite, increases in size as you approach its source. Before long
we arrived at the fall, which must be a fine spectacle in the rainy
season. It then pours down from immense perpendicular rocks, forming as
it were a circular peaked wall, nearly thirty metres in diameter, and
twenty metres in height. The force of the torrent having been broken
by the rocky bed into which it descends, there is another fall of ten
feet; and, lower down, after a third fall of fifteen feet, it passes
into an ample basin, which, like a mirror, reflects the trees and
cliffs around. Even during the dry season the spring, then running from
beneath enormous blocks of granite, flows in such abundance as to feed
several streams.
I was astonished to see my two servants, heated by their long walk,
bathe in the cold water, and on my advising them to wait for a little,
they replied that the natives were always accustomed to bathe when hot.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
MONKEYS PLAYING WITH A CROCODILE.]
We all turned stone-cutters, that is to say, we set to work to detach
the impression of an unknown animal from the surface of an immense mass
of granite rising up out of one of the mountain torrents. A Chinese had
in January demanded so exorbitant a sum for this, that I had abandoned
the idea, intending to content myself with an impression in wax, but
Phrai proposed to me to undertake the work, and by our joint labour it
was soon accomplished. The Siamese do not much like my meddling with
their rocks, and their superstition is also somewhat startled when
I happen to kill a white ape, although when the animal is dead and
skinned they are glad to obtain a cutlet or steak from it, for they
attribute to the flesh of this creature great medicinal virtues.
ATTACKS OF INSECTS.
The rainy season is drawing near, storms become more and more frequent,
and the growling of the thunder is frightful. Insects are in greater
numbers, and the ants, which are now looking out for a shelter, invade
the dwellings, and are a perfect pest to my collections, not to speak
of myself and my clothes. Several of my books and maps have been
almost devoured in one night. Fortunately there are no mosquitoes, but
to make up for this there is a small species of leech, which when it
rains quits the streams and infests the woods, rendering an excursion
there, if not impracticable, at all events very disagreeable. You have
constantly to be pulling them off you by dozens, but, as some always
escape observation, you are sure to return home covered with blood;
often my white trousers are dyed as red as those of a French soldier.
WILD ANIMALS.
The animals have now become scarcer, which in different ways is a
great disappointment to all, for Phrai and Niou feasted sumptuously
on the flesh of the apes, and made a profit by selling their gall to
the Chinese doctors in Chantaboun. Hornbills also have turned wild,
so we can find nothing to replenish our larder but an occasional kid.
Large stags feed on the mountain, but one requires to watch all night
to get within range of them. There are not many birds to be seen,
neither quails, partridges, nor pheasants; and the few wild fowl which
occasionally make their appearance are so difficult to shoot that it is
waste both of time and ammunition to make the attempt.
In this part of the country the Siamese declare they cannot cultivate
bananas on account of the elephants, which at certain times come down
from the mountains and devour the leaves, of which they are very fond.
The royal and other tigers abound here; every night they prowl about in
the vicinity of the houses, and in the mornings we can see the print
of their large claws in the sand and in the clay near streams. By day
they retire to the mountain, where they lurk in close and inaccessible
thickets. Now and then you may get near enough to one to have a shot
at him, but generally, unless suffering from hunger, they fly at the
approach of man. A few days ago I saw a young Chinese who had nineteen
wounds on his body made by one of these animals; he was looking out
from a tree about nine feet high, when the cries of a young kid, tied
to another tree at a short distance, attracted a large tiger. The young
man fired at it, but, though mortally wounded, the creature, collecting
all his strength for a final spring, leaped on his enemy, seized him
and pulled him down, tearing his flesh frightfully with teeth and claws
as they rolled on the ground. Luckily for the unfortunate Chinese, it
was a dying effort, and in a few moments more the tiger relaxed its
hold and breathed its last.
MOUNTAIN OF PRECIOUS STONES.
In the mountains of Chantaboun, and not far from my present abode,
precious stones of fine water occur. There is even at the east of the
town an eminence, which they call “the mountain of precious stones;”
and it would appear from the account of Mgr. Pallegoix that at one
time they were abundant in that locality, since in about half an hour
he picked up a handful, which is as much as now can be found in a
twelvemonth, nor can they be purchased at any price.
It seems that I have seriously offended the poor Thaï[12] of Kombau
by carrying away the footprints. I have met several natives who tell
me they have broken arms, that they can no longer work, and will
always henceforth be in poverty; and I find that I am considered to be
answerable for this because I irritated the genius of the mountain.
Henceforth they will have a good excuse for idleness.
[12] The Siamese were formerly called Thaï.
The Chinese have equally amused me. They imagine that some treasure
ought to be found beneath the footprints, and that the block which I
have carried away must possess great medicinal virtues; so Apait and
his friends have been rubbing the under part of the stone every morning
against another piece of granite, and, collecting carefully the dust
that fell from it, have mixed it with water and drunk it fasting, fully
persuaded that it is a remedy against all ills. Here they say that it
is faith which cures; and it is certain that pills are often enough
administered in the civilized West which have no more virtue than the
granite powder swallowed by old Apait.
FURNISHED APARTMENTS.
His uncle Thié-ou has disposed of his property for him for sixty
ticals, so that, after paying off his debts, he will have left,
including the sum I gave him for his son’s services, forty ticals. Here
that is enough to make a man think himself rich to the end of his days:
he can at times regale the souls of his parents with tea and bonbons,
and live himself like a true country mandarin. Before leaving Kombau
the old man secured me another lodging, for which I had to pay two
ticals (six francs) a month, and I lost nothing in point of comfort
by the change. For “furnished apartments” I think the charge not
unreasonable. The list of furniture is as follows:--in the dining-room
_nothing_, in the bed-room an old mat on a camp-bed. However, this
house is cleaner and larger than the other, and better protected from
the weather: in the first the water came in in all directions. Then
the camp-bed, which is a large one, affords a pleasant lounge after
my hunting expeditions. Besides which advantages, my new landlord
furnishes me with bananas and vegetables, for which I pay in game when
the chase has been successful.
THE DURIAN.
The fruit here is exquisite, particularly the mango, the mangusteen,
the pine-apple, so fragrant and melting in the mouth, and, what is
superior to anything I ever imagined or tasted, the famous “durian”
or “dourion,” which justly merits the title of king of fruits. But to
enjoy it thoroughly one must have time to overcome the disgust at first
inspired by its smell, which is so strong that I could not stay in the
same place with it. On first tasting it I thought it like the flesh of
some animal in a state of putrefaction, but after four or five trials
I found the aroma exquisite. The _durian_ is about two-thirds the size
of a jacca, and like it is encased in a thick and prickly rind, which
protects it from the teeth of squirrels and other nibblers; on opening
it there are to be found ten cells, each containing a kernel larger
than a date, and surrounded by a sort of white, or sometimes yellowish
cream, which is most delicious. By an odd freak of nature, not only
is there the first repugnance to it to overcome, but if you eat it
often, though with ever so great moderation, you find yourself next
day covered with blotches, as if attacked with measles, so heating is
its nature. A _durian_ picked is never good, for when fully ripe it
falls of itself; when cut open it must be eaten at once, as it quickly
spoils, but otherwise it will keep for three days. At Bangkok one of
them costs one _sellung_; at Chantaboun nine may be obtained for the
same sum.
VISIT OF A PANTHER.
I had come to the conclusion that there was little danger in traversing
the woods here, and in our search for butterflies and other insects we
often took no other arms than a hatchet and hunting-knife, while Niou
had become so confident as to go by night with Phrai to lie in wait
for stags. Our sense of security was, however, rudely shaken when one
evening a panther rushed upon one of the dogs close to my door. The
poor animal uttered a heartrending cry, which brought us all out, as
well as our neighbours, each torch in hand. Finding themselves face to
face with a panther, they in their turn raised their voices in loud
screams; but it was too late for me to get my gun, for in a moment the
beast was out of reach.
In a few weeks I must say farewell to these beautiful mountains, never,
in all probability, to see them again, and I think of this with regret;
I have been so happy here, and have so much enjoyed my hunting and
my solitary walks in this comparatively temperate climate, after my
sufferings from the heat and mosquitoes in my journey northwards.
Thanks to my nearness to the sea on the one side, and to the mountain
region on the other, the period of the greatest heat passed away
without my perceiving it; and I was much surprised at receiving a few
days ago a letter from Bangkok which stated that it had been hotter
weather there than had been known for more than thirty years. Many of
the European residents had been ill; yet I do not think the climate of
Bangkok more unhealthy than that of other towns of Eastern Asia within
the tropics. But no doubt the want of exercise, which is there almost
impossible, induces illness in many cases.
A BOA SHOT.
A few days ago I made up my mind to penetrate into a grotto on Mount
Sabab, half-way between Chantaboun and Kombau, so deep, I am told, that
it extends to the top of the mountain. I set out, accompanied by Phrai
and Niou, furnished with all that was necessary for our excursion. On
reaching the entrance of the grotto we lighted our torches, and, after
scaling a number of blocks of granite, began our march. Thousands
of bats, roused by the lights, commenced flying round and round us,
flapping our faces with their wings, and extinguishing our torches
every minute. Phrai walked first, trying the ground with a lance which
he held; but we had scarcely proceeded a hundred paces when he threw
himself back upon me with every mark of terror, crying out, “A serpent!
go back!” As he spoke I perceived an enormous boa about fifteen feet
off, with erect head and open mouth, ready to dart upon him. My gun
being loaded, one barrel with two bullets, the other with shot, I took
aim and fired off both at once. We were immediately enveloped in a
thick cloud of smoke, and could see nothing, but prudently beat an
instant retreat. We waited anxiously for some time at the entrance of
the grotto, prepared to do battle with our enemy should he present
himself; but he did not appear. My guide now boldly lighted a torch,
and, furnished with my gun reloaded and a long rope, went in again
alone. We held one end of the rope, that at the least signal we might
fly to his assistance. For some minutes, which appeared terribly
long, our anxiety was extreme, but equally great were our relief and
gratification when we saw him approach, drawing after him the rope, to
which was attached an immense boa. The head of the reptile had been
shattered by my fire, and his death had been instantaneous, but we
sought to penetrate no farther into the grotto.
SIAMESE FÊTE.
I had been told that the Siamese were about to celebrate a grand fête
at a pagoda about three miles off, in honour of a superior priest who
died last year, and whose remains were now to be burned according
to the custom of the country. I went to see this singular ceremony,
hoping to gain some information respecting the amusements of this
people, and arrived at the place about eight in the morning, the
time for breakfast, or “Kinkao” (rice-eating). Nearly two thousand
Siamese of both sexes from Chantaboun and the surrounding villages,
some in carriages and some on foot, were scattered over the ground in
the neighbourhood of the pagoda. All wore new sashes and dresses of
brilliant colours, and the effect of the various motley groups was most
striking.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
SIAMESE ACTORS.]
FUNERAL RITES.
TROUBLESOME CURIOSITY.
Under a vast roof of planks supported by columns, forming a kind
of shed, bordered by pieces of stuff covered with grotesque paintings
representing men and animals in the most extraordinary attitudes, was
constructed an imitation rock of coloured pasteboard, on which was
placed a catafalque lavishly decorated with gilding and carved work,
and containing an urn in which were the precious remains of the priest.
Here and there were arranged pieces of paper and stuff in the form of
flags. Outside the building was prepared the funeral pile, and at some
distance off a platform was erected for the accommodation of a band
of musicians, who played upon different instruments of the country.
Farther away some women had established a market for the sale of fruit,
bonbons, and arrack, while in another quarter some Chinamen and Siamese
were performing, in a little theatre run up for the occasion, scenes
something in the style of those exhibited by our strolling actors at
fairs. This fête, which lasted for three days, had nothing at all in it
of a funereal character. I had gone there hoping to witness something
new and remarkable, for these peculiar rites are only celebrated in
honour of sovereigns, nobles, and other persons of high standing; but
I had omitted to take into consideration the likelihood of my being
myself an object of curiosity to the crowd. Scarcely, however, had
I appeared in the pagoda, followed by Phrai and Niou, when on all
sides I heard the exclamation, “Farang! come and see the farang!” and
immediately both Siamese and Chinamen left their bowls of rice and
pressed about me. I hoped that, once their curiosity was gratified,
they would leave me in peace, but instead of that the crowd grew
thicker and thicker, and followed me wherever I went, so that at last
it became almost unbearable, and all the more so as most of them were
already drunk either with opium or arrack, many, indeed, with both. I
quitted the pagoda and was glad to get into the fresh air again, but
the respite was of short duration. Passing the entrance of a large hut
temporarily built of planks, I saw some chiefs of provinces sitting at
breakfast. The senior of the party advanced straight towards me, shook
me by the hand, and begged me in a cordial and polite manner to enter;
and I was glad to avail myself of his kind offer, and take refuge
from the troublesome people. My hosts overwhelmed me with attentions,
and forced upon me pastry, fruit, and bonbons; but the crowd who had
followed me forced their way into the building, and hemmed us in on all
sides; even the roof was covered with gazers. All of a sudden we heard
the walls crack, and the whole of the back of the hut, yielding under
the pressure, fell in, and people, priests, and chiefs tumbling one
upon another, the scene of confusion was irresistibly comic. I profited
by the opportunity to escape, swearing--though rather late in the
day--that they should not catch me again.
I know not to what it is to be attributed, unless it be the pure air
of the mountains and a more active life, but the mountaineers of
Chantaboun appear a much finer race than the Siamese of the plain,
more robust, and of a darker complexion. Their features, also, are
more regular, and I should imagine that they sprang rather from the
Arian than from the Mongolian race. They remind me of the Siamese and
Laotians whom I met with in the mountains of Pakpriau.
Will the present movement of the nations of Europe towards the East
result in good by introducing into these lands the blessings of our
civilization--or shall we, as blind instruments of boundless ambition,
come hither as a scourge, to add to their present miseries? Here are
millions of unhappy creatures in great poverty in the midst of the
richest and most fertile region imaginable; bowing shamefully under a
servile yoke made viler by despotism and the most barbarous customs;
living and dying in utter ignorance of the only true God!
DEPARTURE FROM THE MOUNTAINS.
I quitted with regret these beautiful mountains, where I had passed
so many happy hours with the poor but hospitable inhabitants. On the
evening before and the morning of my departure, all the people of the
neighbourhood, Chinese and Siamese, came to say adieu, and offer me
presents of fruits, dried fish, fowls, tobacco, and rice cooked in
various ways with brown sugar, all in greater quantities than I could
possibly carry away. The farewells of these good mountaineers were
touching; they kissed my hands and feet, and I confess that my eyes
were not dry. They accompanied me to a great distance, begging me not
to forget them, and to pay them another visit.
CHAPTER VI.
RETURN TO CHANTABOUN--EXCURSION TO BATTAMBONG--THE ISLANDS OF
KOH KONG--ISLAND OF PHU QUOC--BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT IN THE GULF OF
KOMPUT--CAMBODIA--COMMERCE OF THESE COUNTRIES--MISERABLE STATE OF THE
PEOPLE--VISIT TO THE KING OF CAMBODIA.
Immediately on my return to Chantaboun, where I was again received with
open arms by the good Abbé Raufaing, a French missionary associated
as colleague with Father Larmandy, I began to collect information as
to the best route to Battambong, the chief town of a province of the
same name, which, above a century ago, was wrested from Cambodia by
the Siamese. I made an agreement with some pagan Annamite fishermen
to give them thirty ticals for taking me from Chantaboun to Komput, a
province of Cambodia. The Annamite Christians demanded forty ticals,
and provisions both going and returning. After taking leave of the
abbé, who had shown me every possible kindness and attention on each of
my visits, I embarked at noon, in spite of a heavy rain, as I wished to
take advantage of a high tide. We arrived in the harbour at seven in
the evening, and were detained there for two days by a contrary wind,
too violent to allow us to leave without danger.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot
VIEW OF BATTAMBONG.]
EXCURSION TO BATTAMBONG.
Two days later we reached Ko-Khut, where, again, pouring rain and a
head wind compelled us to anchor about 100 metres from the shore in
a small bay which was far from promising much security to our little
craft. Our position was not agreeable; our frail bark, rudely tossed
by the furious waves, seemed every moment in danger of being dashed
upon the rocks. Our baggage, to which we had assigned the best place
for preservation from wet, occupied three-fourths of the boat, and we
were crowded five of us together in the bows, with no better shelter
than some palm-leaves sewn together, through which the water dripped,
and kept us continually soaked. The rain falling without intermission,
we could not keep the fire alight to cook our rice, and for four days
remained half-lying in the boat, scarcely able to move in the narrow
space left for us, and our clothes clinging to us with wet. At last,
on the fifth day, we had the pleasure of seeing the sky clear up and
the wind change. About two o’clock in the afternoon, foreseeing a
fine night, and having revived the drooping courage of my men by a
stiff dose of arrack, we weighed anchor and left Ko-Khut with a fair
breeze. It was quite a comfort to be able to move and breathe freely,
and I spent a part of the night under my little awning of palm-leaves,
enjoying the beauty of the heavens and the rapid movement of the
vessel. At daybreak we perceived, about ten miles distant, the first
of the islands of Koh-Kong. It is smaller than Koh-Chang, and neither
so imposing in general appearance nor having such a splendid range
of peaked hills. The island is nearly a desert, but it produces the
beautiful cardamom, as also gamboge, collected from the bamboos, which
the natives split open when hard.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
LEECH-FISHERS ON THE ISLE OF SAMET.]
BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT.
I soon forgot the miseries of the first part of our voyage, and was
amply recompensed by the shifting scenes of beauty presented to us by
the group of islands we were passing. At length we reached the advanced
posts of the pirates of Komput, from the heights of which they keep a
look-out, and, as soon as a sail comes in sight, make preparations for
an attack. We had no cause for fear, having no merchandise to tempt
them; and, moreover, we were all well armed. About five in the evening
we cast anchor in a little bay, where we cooked our rice, and my men
lay down to take some repose, having had none the night previous. We
were a day and a half’s sail from Komput, and at midnight we resumed
our voyage, gently rocked by the waves and favoured by a light breeze.
After passing the island of Phu-Quoc, which belongs to Cochin China,
the view became more and more beautiful; land surrounded us on all
sides, and we seemed to be sailing on a lake. The scenery in this gulf
is truly enchanting. Eastward extend the coast and islands of Cochin
China as far as Ita Jienne, and to the north and west are those of
Cambodia, crowned by a mountain 900 metres in height, which is so
like Sabab that Phrai called out to the pilot, “You are taking us
back to Chantaboun; there is Mount Sabab.” We were not, however,
long permitted to enjoy the splendid picture here displayed before
us, for very shortly after our entrance into the gulf large black
clouds, gathering at the summit of the mountain, by degrees hid it
entirely from view, the thunder growled, and a terrific wind arose,
which hurried our boat along at an extraordinary rate. The pilot at
the helm shook all over, and begged for arrack to sustain his strength
and courage. When the storm had lasted half an hour a heavy rain began
to descend, and with it the wind moderated. We had now arrived at the
mouth of the river on which Komput is situated.
It happened to be the day fixed for the King of Cambodia, then in
Komput, to pass in review all the ships lying in the roads; but
for some time he had been detained by the rough weather in a sort
of apartment erected for him on piles, in a place where the water
was shallow. As we passed the Custom-house, we perceived the royal
_cortége_ advancing towards a large junk, which his Majesty was having
built as a trading-vessel for Singapore.
THE KOMPUT RIVER.
The river leading to Komput is about 300 metres in width, but, rising
in the neighbouring mountains, its course is but very limited. The
magnificent tree called by the Siamese Mai-Jakienne, and much prized
by the Chinese for furnishing masts for their junks, is found in great
abundance in the forests bordering its banks. There are frequently six
or seven ships loading at one time in the roads, so that both Chinese
and European vessels may be constantly seen going up and down the
stream.
KOMPUT.
Though Komput is now the only port of Cambodia, it is far from being
as full of life and bustle as Bangkok, for the town boasts only 300
houses at most, and a population scarcely equal to that of Chantaboun.
All its little commerce is supplied by Lower Cochin China, the ports of
which are almost always closed against Europeans, so that rice, which
is imported in a sort of contraband manner, some tons of gamboge, a
little ivory, fish taken in the lake by the Annamites, a small quantity
of cotton, and the valuable wood above mentioned, constitute the whole
of the commerce of the town; and I venture to predict that, when the
ports of Annam are thrown open to Europeans, the Chinese merchants
will abandon Komput altogether. And yet, under a better system of
government, this country might supply a great number of articles, of
which I will speak hereafter. It will not probably be long before what
remains of this unfortunate land will fall under the dominion of some
other power. Possibly, France has her eyes fixed upon it, with the view
of annexing it to her possessions in Lower Cochin China.
The comparative exemption from heavy taxes and duties which the
Cambodians enjoy, when compared with the Siamese, made me imagine
I should be able to live here in comfort and abundance; but I was
disappointed. Almost every vice seemed prevalent at Komput--pride,
insolence, cheating, cowardice, servility, excessive idleness, are
the attributes of this miserable people. It is often remarked that no
one should judge a country through which he is merely a traveller, and
that only those are capable of doing so who have resided in it for some
time. I admit that, in the first case, one is liable to make mistakes;
but I state here what I see, and give my impressions as I receive them,
leaving it to more experienced travellers to correct me where I am in
error. Nevertheless, the first impression often proves ineffaceable,
and I may mention that frequently I have trusted less to my own
judgment than to the experience of others.
CUSTOM-HOUSE BEGGARS.
There are few travellers in Europe, America, or probably anywhere else,
who have not had cause to complain of the offensive manner in which
custom-house officers perform their duties, and often exceed them. In
Europe they earn their daily bread by annoying in every possible way
the unfortunates who are compelled, for the sake of peace, to submit
to their insolence and tyranny: here they gain it by begging; they are
licensed beggars. “A little salt-fish, a little arrack, a little betel,
if you please,”--such are the petitions; and the more you give, the
less strict will the search be.
After having sailed up the pretty river for about a mile, we came in
sight of a house covered with creepers, and surmounted by a cross,
which indicated the residence of the Abbé Hestrest, the head of the
foreign mission here. Reader, have you journeyed in foreign lands?
Have you ever for a time, more or less long, been separated from your
friends and relatives--shut out from civilized society? Have you
been tossed about by tempests or buffeted by your fellow-men? Have
you narrowly escaped some great danger? Have you been unhappy? Have
you lost some one very dear to you? In one word, have you _suffered_?
If you have, you will appreciate the feelings with which the solitary
wanderer welcomes the divine cross, the heart-stirring emblem of his
religion. It is to him a friend, a consoler, a father, a brother; at
sight of it the soul expands, and the more you have suffered the better
you will love it. You kneel down, you pray, you forget your griefs, and
you feel that God is with you. This is what I did.
THE ABBÉ HESTREST.
I had letters to the Abbé Hestrest from several of the missionaries
in Siam. We therefore anchored, and I landed; but the nine days’
inactivity to which I had been forced to submit had so cramped my
limbs, that for a time I had almost lost the use of them, and could
scarcely walk. The abbé received me like a brother, and offered
me accommodation in his humble abode until I could find lodgings
elsewhere. The first piece of news which he imparted to me was, that
France was at war with Austria. I did not even know that there had been
a difference between the two Governments.
INTRODUCED TO THE KING.
Scarcely had I landed when the return of the king from his aquatic
excursion was announced. The Abbé Hestrest conducted me to the banks of
the river; and as soon as his Majesty perceived a stranger by the side
of the priest, he gave orders to his rowers to approach the shore, and,
when within hail, addressed the abbé:
“Who is the stranger with you?”
“Sire, a Frenchman,” replied my companion.
“A Frenchman?” repeated the king, quickly. Then turning to me, “You are
French?”
“Yes, sire,” I answered, in Siamese.
“Monsieur comes from Paris,” said the abbé; “but he has recently
visited Siam.”
“And what does he come to my kingdom for?”
“He has a particular mission, which has nothing to do with politics;
it is merely to see the country. M. Mouhot will soon wait upon your
majesty.”
After a few minutes’ silence, the king, waving his hand, and saying
“_Au revoir_,” passed on.
I was at first afraid that the abbé had made me pass for a less humble
and modest individual than I really was, and I should be forbidden
the kingdom. The very name of France is full of dread to these poor
monarchs; and this present one lived in daily fear of seeing the French
flag waving in the roads. He is about sixty years of age, short and
stout. He wears his hair cut rather close, and his countenance is
good-natured, mild, and intelligent.[13]
[13] Since M. Mouhot’s journey, this king has died, and has been
succeeded by his second son, a revolution in favour of the elder
brother proving unsuccessful.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Pelcoq, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
FAVOURITE WIFE OF THE KING OF CAMBODIA.]
THE FAVOURITE WIFE.
The king was reclining on a thick cushion in the stern of his boat,
which was of European build. Four rowers and a dozen young girls were
with him; and among the latter I remarked one, whose features were
delicate and pretty, dressed in the European style, and wearing long
hair. She would have been reckoned a pretty girl anywhere, and was, I
fancy, the favourite, for she was in a richer costume than the others,
and covered with jewels. She also occupied the place nearest the king,
and seemed to pay great attention to her old adorer. The rest were fat,
with bloated faces and vulgar features, and had their teeth blackened
by betel and arrack. Besides a kind of petticoat, the corners of which
are looped up and fastened to the sash behind, some wore a tight
jacket, white or blue, buttoning over the chest; and had a red scarf,
which, according to the custom of the Siamese and Cambodian women, was
passed round the body under the arms, and tied at the bosom.
MUN SUY THE PIRATE.
Behind the king’s boat, in no apparent order, and at long intervals,
followed those of several mandarins, who were not distinguished in any
particular manner. One boat alone, manned by Chinese, and commanded by
a fat man of the same nation, holding in his hand a halberd surmounted
by a crescent, attracted my attention, as it headed the escort. This
man was the famous Mun Suy, chief of the pirates, and a friend of the
king. I was told that, two years before, he had been compelled, owing
to some iniquities not very well known, to fly from Amoy, and had
arrived at Komput with a hundred followers, adventurers and rovers
of the sea like himself. After having remained there for some time,
keeping the whole place in terror, and extorting by menaces all he
could from the market people, he conceived the project of seizing upon
and burning the town, and putting all the inhabitants to the sword,
intending then to retreat with his spoils, if not strong enough to hold
his ground. Fortunately the plot was discovered, and the Cambodians
from the neighbourhood were armed and assembled in readiness to
defend the place. Mun Suy, not liking the aspect of affairs, embarked
with his band in his junk, and fell suddenly on Itatais. The market
was sacked in a minute; but the inhabitants, recovering from their
surprise, repulsed the pirates and drove them back to their vessel
with the loss of several men. Mun Suy then returned to Komput, gained
over by presents first the governor and afterwards the king himself,
and ever since has carried on his piratical acts with impunity,
making his name dreaded by all around. Loud complaints arose from the
neighbouring countries, and the king, either overawed by the pirate, or
for protection against the Annamites, appointed him commander of the
coast-guard. Henceforth, therefore, he became a licensed robber, and
murder and rapine increased to such a degree, that the King of Siam
sent a naval expedition to Komput to capture the malefactor and his
gang. Two only were taken and executed. As for their leader, he was
hidden, they say, in the palace.
MARKET-PLACE OF KOMPUT.
Some days after my arrival I was installed in a house built by the
king’s orders, and at his own expense, for the accommodation of
European merchants, who, however, do not often visit Komput. Abbé
Hestrest conducted me through the city. The market-place, occupied
chiefly by the Chinese, is covered by a number of thatched huts built
of bamboo, in which are exhibited for sale, glass, china, hatchets,
knives, Chinese parasols, and other articles of merchandise, native
and foreign. The dealers in fish and vegetables, and the Chinese
_restaurateurs_, dispute the street with pigs, hungry dogs, and
children of all ages and both sexes, in a state of nature, and dabbling
in the mud. Mingled with these are native women, repulsively ugly,
and effeminate and emaciated Chinamen, with haggard cheeks, dragging
themselves painfully along to the opium-merchant’s, the barber’s,
or some gambling-house, three requisites to the very existence of a
Chinese. All the commerce is in their hands; and you meet ten of them
to one native.
VISIT TO THE KING.
I was introduced by the abbé at several Chinese houses, where we were
most politely received. The king was expecting a visit from me, and
had sent several persons to find out who I was; his idea being, that
I was an officer of the French army in Cochin China, despatched from
thence to gain information about the country. I begged M. Hestrest to
accompany me to see the king; for which purpose we proceeded a mile
and a half up the river to Kompong-Bay, which is the Cambodian part of
the town, and the residence of the governor, and where his Majesty and
suite were encamped.
When we arrived he was holding a kind of levée, in a building
constructed of bamboo with some elegance, and covered with red cloth,
but the interior of which looked more like a theatre than a royal
abode. Finding at the door neither sentinel nor porter, we entered
without being announced. The king was seated on an old European chair,
with two officers on each side of him, who from time to time offered
him, kneeling, a lighted cigarette, or some betel, which they kept
always ready. At a little distance stood his guards, some holding pikes
ornamented at the top with white tufts; others with sheathed sabres in
their hands. The ministers and mandarins knelt a few steps below his
Majesty. On our entrance, chairs similar to the king’s were placed for
us close to him. Like his subjects, he generally wears nothing but the
langouti, the native dress. His was composed of yellow silk, confined
at the waist by a magnificent belt of gold studded with precious
stones. At Cambodia, as at Siam, it is necessary to offer presents, if
one desires to gain the royal favour. I had accordingly brought with
me an English walking-stick gun, as a gift for the king. It at once
attracted his notice.
“Pray show me that cane,” he said, in Cambodian.
I gave it to him.
“Is it loaded?” asked he, seeing it was a fire-arm.
“No, sire.”
He then begged for a cap and snapped it; unscrewed the barrel and
examined it with great attention.
“If it would be agreeable to his Majesty,” I said to M. Hestrest, “I
shall be happy to offer it to the king.”
The abbé interpreted my words.
“What did it cost?” asked the king.
“Sire, I dare not ask M. Mouhot. In Europe no one tells the price of
what he gives.”
The king then begged to look at my watch, and, after inspecting it
attentively, again asked the price. The abbé then alluded to my design
of visiting Udong, the capital of Cambodia, and of journeying through
the country.
“Go to Udong; go about,” said the king, laughing. “Very well.” He
then asked my name, and tried to write it; on which I drew out my
pocket-book and gave him one of my cards. He seemed to wish for the
pocket-book, and I presented him with it.
“Sire,” said M. Hestrest, “as M. Mouhot is going to Udong, perhaps your
Majesty will deign to facilitate his journey.”
“Willingly. How many carriages do you want?”
“Three will be sufficient, sire.”
“And for what day?”
“The day after to-morrow, sire.”
THE AMBASSADOR’S HOTEL.
“Take a note of that, and give orders about it,” said the king to
his secretary. He then rose, and, shaking hands with us, retired. We
returned to our hotel. I say hotel, for it is the only lodging for
strangers; and M. de Montigny, when ambassador at Komput, lived there,
indications of which were afforded by the inscriptions scratched on the
walls by the sailors belonging to the expedition, such as “Hotel of the
king and ambassadors;” “Here is lodging for man, horse, and elephant
gratis pro Deo;” “Good beds, sofas, and dining-tables on the floor;”
“Sea-water bathing--in the river;” “Good table--in the market;” “Good
wine--at Singapore;” “Nothing--for the servants.”
CHAPTER VII.
DETAILS RESPECTING CAMBODIA--UDONG, ITS PRESENT CAPITAL--INTERVIEWS
WITH THE SECOND KING.
All my preparations for departure having been completed, the Abbé
Hestrest came on the morning of the day fixed, to invite me to
breakfast with him; after which he offered to take me in his own boat
to Kompong-Bay, where the promised vehicles were to meet us.
When we arrived there, none were to be seen. We applied to the first
mandarin, who, chewing his betel, displayed his black teeth with a
stupid grin, and I then perceived that I had been duped by these
people, who are always and everywhere false; never yielding but to
force, and holding the very name of a European in detestation. After
various complaints, and remonstrances with the mandarins, we with great
difficulty obtained three carriages, by courtesy so called; but the
dog-cars in use in Holland would have been more serviceable to me; so I
sent back the three wheelbarrows to the king, with my compliments, and
hired other vehicles for myself.
JOURNEY TO UDONG.
Udong, the present capital of Cambodia, is situated north-east of
Komput, and is four miles and a half from that arm of the Mekon which
forms the great lake, lying about 135 miles from Komput as the crow
flies. It is reckoned an eight-days’ journey, travelling with oxen or
buffaloes, and there are eight stations on the way. With elephants you
can accomplish it in half the time; but only the king, the mandarins,
and very wealthy persons can afford to keep these animals. The
conveyances which I had engaged could scarcely hold my baggage, so that
my men were obliged to make the journey on foot.
Perceiving in the shops several necklaces, bracelets, and rings formed
of a material like jet, I inquired from whence it was procured, and
was told that it came from the neighbouring island of Phû Quoc, where
it was to be found in abundance. I afterwards handled a piece of this
substance, and discovered it to be a sort of coal. It would burn well
in a lamp, and greatly resembles the cannel coal of Scotland.
SUFFERINGS FROM HEAT.
After traversing a marshy plain, where we knocked down several aquatic
birds, we entered a beautiful forest, which stretches unbroken to
the very gates of Udong. To cross this marsh I had to put on my
hunting-boots, which I had not worn for some time, and consequently the
leather had hardened so much, that, after two hours’ walking in the
heat of the day, the skin was rubbed off my feet in several places; and
I was forced to take off the boots and continue my journey barefoot.
Luckily, owing to the dry weather and the constant communication
between Komput and the capital, the road was almost everywhere in
good condition. The heat was intense, and our progress excessively
slow; but at length we reached the first station, where I was lodged
in a large hall, thatched and built of bamboo, which had been erected
for the accommodation of the king and his suite. At night, guards
were stationed at my door to protect me from robbery; and, thanks to
the royal letter which I carried, I was respectfully treated. On the
following morning I managed, at the cost of a franc of our money, to
hire an elephant to take me as far as the next station.
From thence I continued my route barefoot, and our sufferings from
the heat exceeded all I had ever imagined of the effect of the sun in
the torrid zone. Its burning rays, falling on the sandy soil, became
intolerable at ten o’clock in the morning, so that even the natives,
the soles of whose feet were much harder than mine, could not bear
contact with the bare ground, but sought for tufts of grass to step
upon. The oxen could scarcely move, and showed every sign of pain and
exhaustion; and, in spite of spurring and blows, often refused to stir.
The water in the ponds was not warm, but literally hot; the whole
atmosphere seemed on fire, and all nature languishing and prostrate. At
ten o’clock we halted until three. We sadly felt the want of drinkable
water, as also did our cattle, which suffered from thirst even more
than ourselves. To make our tea and cook our rice, we had no resource
but the stagnant pools, impregnated with unwholesome matter by the
vomica-nuts which fall from the surrounding trees.
NATURE OF THE ROAD.
The day following I was fortunate enough to obtain another elephant;
but after this there was no more help to be met with, and the greater
part of the ensuing four days’ journey I performed on foot, my
attendants contriving to perch themselves on the corners of one of
the waggons. At this dry season a broad track in the middle of the
road, which altogether is from twenty-five to thirty metres in width,
is beaten hard by the frequent passage of vehicles and elephants, and
the fine thick dust arising from it is very annoying. The remainder
of the road is covered with grass and shrubs, and on either hand is
the forest, with its trees tall, straight, and majestic, surmounted by
immense tufts of leaves. The effect is that of a magnificent avenue;
and from the regularity of the intervals between the trees, one might
almost believe that it had been laid out by the hand of art.
The stations are equidistant from each other, about twelve miles
apart; and at all of them, besides the old caravanserais for the
shelter of ordinary travellers, new ones, much more spacious and
ornamental, have been erected for the accommodation of the king. There
are also intermediate resting-places between every two stations, where
travellers can obtain a welcome shelter from the midday heat.
UDONG.
On leaving Komput a low chain of hills came in sight on our left hand,
but everywhere on our route we met with the same sandy soil, except in
a single spot, which was stony, and contained veins of iron-ore. We
passed through but one village, and there, only, were a few attempts
at cultivation. In no other part of the forest could I distinguish any
traces of its being inhabited. On approaching the capital, the prospect
became more diversified: we passed fields of rice, cottages encircled
by fruit-gardens, and country houses belonging to the Cambodian
aristocracy, who come here in the evening for the sake of breathing
a purer air than they can find in the city. As we drew closer to the
gates I found the place to be protected by a large moat, surmounted by
a parapet, and enclosed by a palisade three metres high. I expected
to enter a fortified town, and, as my countrymen were now engaged in
giving a lesson to the Cochin-Chinese, to be received by a sentinel
with fixed bayonet, and with the startling words, “You cannot pass.”
But
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