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The Tourist's Guide through the Country of Caernarvon

by P. B. Williams · English · Gutenberg #45865 · 352,762 chars · public domain (US)

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Title: The Tourist's Guide through the Country of Caernarvon

Author: P. B. Williams


        
Release date: June 2, 2014 [eBook #45865]

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/45865

Credits: Transcribed from the 1821 J. Hulme edition by David Price


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOURIST'S GUIDE THROUGH THE COUNTRY OF CAERNARVON ***


Transcribed from the 1821 J. Hulme edition by David Price, email
ccx074@pglaf.org





                                   THE
                             TOURIST’S GUIDE
                               THROUGH THE
                          Country of Caernarvon,
                        CONTAINING A SHORT SKETCH
                                  OF ITS
                        HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.


                                * * * * *

                     By the Rev. P. B. Williams, A.B.

                    _RECTOR OF LLANRUG AND LLANBERIS_.

                                * * * * *

                              _CAERNARVON_:

                    PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. HULME,

                 _Bookbinder & Stationer_, _Turf-Square_.

          AND MAY BE HAD OF POOLE & HARDING, CHESTER; R. TAYLOR,
                   LIVERPOOL; AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS

                                  —_o_—

                                  1821.

                                * * * * *

                                    TO

                      THOMAS JAMES WARREN BULKELEY,

                          Lord Viscount Bulkeley

                  OF CASHEL, IN THE KINGDOM OF IRELAND;

                          _AND BARON BULKELEY_,

                 OF BEAUMARIS, IN THE KINGDOM OF ENGLAND;

                            PEER OF THE REALM;

     LORD LIEUTENANT, & CUSTOS HOTULORUM, OF THE COUNTY OF CAERNARVON

                CHANCELLOR AND CHAMBERLAIN OF NORTH WALES;

                  CONSTABLE OF BEAUMARIS CASTLE, &c. &c.

A Nobleman, whose sole study is to do Good, and to promote the Happiness
and Welfare of his Fellow Creatures; and who is highly Esteemed, and
greatly and justly Beloved in this part of the Principality; and has
repeatedly and deservedly received the Thanks of the Bench of
Magistrates, as well as those of the Established Militia, under their
gallant Commander, Col. EDWARDS, and the other Officers, for the
Admirable Method with which he has Organized the County, and his ready
Attention and Assistance at all Times when requisite,—This little
Publication, is most Respectfully inscribed, by

                              His Lordship’s

                              Most obedient,

                             And most devoted

                             Humble Servant,

                                                         _P. B. WILLIAMS_.

Llanrug, April 9, 1821.




ADVERTISEMENT.


THE following small compilation (for it claims no higher title) was made
at the request of several friends, as the want of such a little Manuel
principally for the use of Strangers, was generally known and
acknowledged.  The Writer would not have permitted his name to appear,
had he not been persuaded by the Publisher, that the countenance of even
such an obscure individual would in some degree tend to promote the sale
of the work.  Some of the Subscribers, there is reason to apprehend,
expect a full and complete History of the County, but surely they do not
suppose that such a work could be compressed within the compass of an
octavo volume, or sold for such a small sum.

At some future period, the Writer would not be unwilling to undertake
such a Publication, (should he meet with proper encouragement, and his
life be spared) as he has for many years been collecting materials for
such a work.




Subscribers’ Names.


Most Noble the Marquis of Anglesey, 6 copies

Rev. Thomas Alban, Llandrillo’n rhos 3 copies, bound

Mr. Ambrose, Penrhyn Arms Inn

                                * * * * *

Viscount Warren Bulkeley, 6 copies bound

Lord Bishop of Bangor, 4 copies

— Beresford, Esq. Carnarvon

J. Bradley, Esq. Plastirion

Harwood Banner, Esq. Liverpool

C. Brown, Esq. Manchester

Mr. Bettiss, Hotel, Carnarvon, 6 copies 1 bound

.. Black, Organist, Carnarvon

.. Broster, Bangor

.. T. Bowers, Chester

                                * * * * *

Rev. J. H. Cotton, Bangor, 2 copies

Edward Carreg, Esq. Carnarvon, bd

R. T. Carreg, Esq. Cefn mine, bound

                                * * * * *

Very Rev. The Dean of Bangor

— Dawson, Esq. Bangor

Mr. Davies, Crown & Anchor Inn, Bangor, 2 copies

.. Day, Schoolmaster, Carnarvon

.. J. Davies, Slate Merchant, do.

.. Davies, Mercer, Carnarvon

.. William Dalrymple, Liverpool

..  Davies, Bee Inn, Abergeleu

                                * * * * *

Colonel Edwards, Nanhoron, 6 copies

Miss Edwards, Nanhoron

J. Evans, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon

J. G. Evans, Esq. Carnarvon

Hugh Evans, Esq. Henblas

John Ellis, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli

Rev. T. Ellis, near Llanrwst

Mr. Evan Evans, Solicitor, Carnarvon

.. E. Evans, Shopkeeper, do.

.. R. Evans, Grocer, do.

.. Owen Ellis, do.

.. T. Evans, Brazier, Bangor

.. Ellis, Surveyor of Customs, Beaumaris

.. Evans, Tanner, Dolydd

.. Eyres, Druggist, Liverpool

..  J. Evans, Ty’n y coed, Abereirch bound

                                * * * * *

Right Honorable Maurice Fitzgerald, M.P. Knight of Kerry, bound

Mr. Fleming, Green, Carnarvon

.. Edmund Francis, do.

.. H. Field, Castle Inn, Bangor

.. Fletcher, Bangor

                                * * * * *

R. Garnons, Esq. Carnarvon, 1 dozen

John Griffith, Esq. Llanfair, 4 copies

W. G. Griffith, Esq. Bodegroes, 2 copies 1 bound

Joseph Goddard, Esq. Carnarvon

Holland Griffith, Esq. Garreglwyd

R. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli, bd

J. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Llanrwst

Rev. D. Griffith, Llanfair, Anglesey, bd

Rev. W. Griffith, Rector of Llandwrog, and Chaplain of H. M. Dock Yard,
Pembroke

Miss Griffith, 78 Aungier Street, Dublin

Miss M. A. Gething, Holyhead

Mr. Philip Gale, Stationer, Liverpool

.. H. Griffith, Druggist, Carnarvon, bd

.. O. Griffith, Tryfan

.. J. Griffith, Clynog, Anglesey

.. G. Griffith, Four-mile bridge

                                * * * * *

Captain Haslam, Carnarvon, 6 copies

— Hewitt, Esq. Bangor

Thomas Hughes, Esq. Solicitor, L—pool

Rev. J. Hamer, Bangor

.... Morris Hughes, Llandegai

.... J. Holland, Dolbenmaen

.... L. Hughes, Llanllechid

.... Richard Hughes, Brynllwyd

.... E. Herbert, Llanfair fechen

.... G. Herbert, Amlwch

.... H. Hughes, Llanfaethle, bound

Dr. Hughes, Pwllheli

Lieutenant Hughes, Carnarvon

Miss Howard, Conway, 3 copies

Mr. Hughes, Waterloo Tavern, Bangor 3 copies

.. R. Hughes, Shopkeeper, do bd

.. R. Hughes, Boot-maker, do bd

.. Hughes; Merchant, Carnarvon, bd

.. Hughes, Goat Inn, do

.. J. Hughes, Currier, Llanrwst

.. Hyman, Jeweller, Bangor, bd

Mrs. Hartwell, Post Office, Carnarvon, bound

Mr. Humphreys, Customs, ditto

.. Hobson, Factor, Birmingham

.. Hughes, Draper, Pwllheli, bd

.. Hughes, Timber Merchant, Pwllheli

                                * * * * *

Thomas Jones, Esq. Bryntirion 2 cop. 1 bound

John Jonas, Esq. Solicitor, Beaumaris

Robert Jones, Esq. Pen y bryn, bound

Rev. H. W. Jones, Treiorwerth, three copies

.... Henry Jones, Ty coch

.... J. Jones, Mynydd Ednyfed

.... Mr. Jones, Rector of Criciaeth

.... J. Jones, Llanllyfni, bound

.... Robert Jones, Boduan

.... J. Jones, Llanbedr goch

Rev. D. Jones, Llandoged

Mr. J. Jackson, Capel Curig Inn, six copies, 1 bound

.. Edward Jones, Ty’n y maes, 6 cop

Dr. Jones, Pwllheli, bound

Captain Jones, Pant howel

Mrs. Jones, Castellmai

Miss Jones, ditto

.... Jervoise, Litchfield

.... Jump, Liverpool

Mr. William Jones, Attorney, Carnarvon

Mr. Robert Jones, Shopkeeper, Ditto

.. Owen Jones, Merchant, Ditto

.. Jones, Currier, Ditto

.. Thomas Jones, Customs, Beaumaris

.. John Jonas, Goaler, Carnarvon

.. Jones, Pen y bryn, Eglwys bach

.. Richard Jones, Union, Carnarvon, bound

.. Jones, Eagles Inn, Llanrwst, bd

.. J. Jones, Surgeon, do

.. Robert Jones, Timber Merchant, St. Asaph

.. Jones, Machine Tavern, Rhudlan

.. H. Jones, Grocer, Abergeleu

.. William Jones, Mine Agent, Llandudno

                                * * * * *

Rev. J. Kyffin, Bangor, bound

.... J. Kyffin, Llanystyndwy, bound

Mr. William Kyffin, Eglwys fach, bd

.. M‘Kergow, Boduan

                                * * * * *

John Lloyd, Esq. Pen y glannau, Maentwrog, 6 copies

Colonel Lloyd, Marle, bound

T. Lloyd, Esq. Glangwna

Mrs. Lloyd, do

Miss F. Lloyd, do

J. T. Lloyd, Esq. Shrewsbury

Mrs. J. T. Lloyd, do

John Lane, Esq. Staffordshire

R. Llwyd, Esq. (Author of ‘Beaumaris Bay,’) Bank Place, Chester

J. E. Lloyd, Esq. Trallwyn

— Ludgate, Esq. Liverpool

Rev. William Lloyd, Festiniog

Miss Lewis, Mount Hazle

Mr. Lloyd, Collector of Excise, Carnarvon

.. L. Louis, Schoolmaster, Abergeleu

.. John Lloyd, Architect, Carnarvon

Miss A. Lewis, Bangor

Mr. Lewis, Bull’s-head Inn, Aber, bd

.. Lloyd, Druggist, Liverpool, bound

.. Lloyd, Brynkir, bound

.. Richard Leister, Llanrhos

                                * * * * *

Mr. M‘Lean, Gwynfryn

.. Lenthal, Maenan

Colonel Mc Gregor

Rev. H. Majendie, Bangor, 2 copies

Captain Majendie

W. Mason, Esq. M. D. Carnarvon

Rev. T. G. Moulsdale, Llanfair Talhaiarn

Mr. Morgan, Bank, Carnarvon

.. Millington, do

.. Mumford, Supervisor, Conway

.. H. Morris, Ty gwyn, Llanrug

                                * * * * *

O. J. E. Nanney, Esq. Gwynfryn, 2 copies, 1 bound

Rev. Mr. Nanney, Belmont

Mr. Nembard, Plasmadoc

.. Nichols, Tan yr allt Nursery

                                * * * * *

E. Owen, Esq. Carnarvon

Captain Robert Owen, Carnarvon

Rev. G. Owen, Carnarvon, 6 copies

.... E. Owen, Llaniestyn

.... E. A. Owen, Holyhead

.... J. Owen, Conway

Mr. Owen, Attorney, Carnarvon

.. Owen, Druggist, do

.. W. Owen, Shopkeeper, do

.. Humphrey Owen, Rhyddgaer, Anglesey

.. Ormerod, Gwyndu

Miss M. Owen, Inn, Festiniog

                                * * * * *

G. H. Dawkins Pennant, Esq. M.P.

Mrs. Pennant

T. P. I. Parry, Esq. Madryn, 3 copies

Colonel Parry, do bound

Captain Parry, R. N. Carnarvon

W. St. George Pelisier, Esq. Priory

Paul Panton, Esq. Plasgwyn

O. A. Poole, Esq. Gorphwysfa

Colonel Peacock, Anglesey

Iohn Price, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon 2 copies

Messrs. Poole and Harding, Chester 6 copies

Dr. Pring, Bangor

Rev. H. Price, Friars, Bangor

.... T. Parry, Treborth

.... H. Pugh, Llansaintffraid

.... O. Parry, Llanfair yn nghornwy

Mr. I. Prichard, Beddgelert, 2 copies

.. Edward Price, Carnarvon

.. Parry, Treborth, bound

.. Paul, Bangor

.. Powell, Customs, Carnarvon

.. Preece, Schoolmaster, do

.. Payne, Liquor Merchant, do

.. Robert Pritchard, Liverpool

Mr. Parry, Harp, Carnarvon, bound

.. R. Price, Traeth coch

.. O. H. Parry, Cromlech

.. Preston, Four-mile bridge

                                * * * * *

Hugh Rowlands, Esq. Ty mawr, Clynog

Iohn Rowlands, Esq. Plastirion

E. Griffith Roberts, Esq. Aber

W. Roberts, Esq. Oakland, Llanrwst

Robert Roberts, Esq. Bank, Carnarvon

Iohn Roberts, Esq. Dep. Reg. Bangor

Rev. Mr. Roberts, Hendre, 2 copies

.... I. Roberts, Llanengan.  2 copies

.... Owen Reynolds, Aber, bound

.... T. Read, Beaumaris

.... Ellis Roberts, Bangor, bound

.... H. Rowlands, Beaumaris

.... W. Roberts, Gallt y beren

Mr. Redding, Bull’s Head Inn, Beaumaris, 6 copies

.. Iohn Roberts, Surgeon, Carnarvon

.. W. Roberts, Surgeon, Green, do

.. H. Roberts, Carnarvon, bound

.. Roberts, Surgeon, Bangor

.. Rathbone, Druggist, do

.. Rouse, Harp Inn, Conway

.. Roberts, Surgeon, Llanrwst

.. Roberts, Watch-maker, Bangor

.. Richards, Tailor, Carnarvon

.. Richardson, Factor, Birmingham

.. Rhodes, Attorney, Liverpool

.. Rasbrook, Post Office, Bangor

.. Richardson, Carnarvon

.. G. Roberts, Clynog

.. Rice, Crown and Anchor, Pwllheli bound

.. Roberts, Attorney, Pwllheli

.. Roberts, Liquor merchant, do

.. Radford, Guard of the Prince Regent Coach

.. Robert Roberts, Holyhead

.. Read, Attorney, Llanrwst

Mrs. Roberts, Glass Shop, Carnarvon

.... Roberts, Ty hen, Llwyngwnadl

                                * * * * *

T. A. Smith, Esq. Vaynol, 4 copies

Captain Sewell, Carnarvon

                                * * * * *

Rice Thomas, Esq. Coed helen

William Turner, Esq. Parkia, near Carnarvon

Rev. J. W. Trevor, do

.... I. Titley, Llanrwst

.... W. Thomas, Trefor, Beamaris

Mr. Titterton, Carnarvon, bound

.. Thomas, Surgeon, bound

.. Thomas, Druggist, Llanrwst

Mr. Toleman, Watch-maker, Carnarvon

.. Richard Taylor, Bookseller, Liverpool, 2 copies

.. David Thomas, Bard of Snowdon

Miss Thomas, Port Penrhyn, Bangor bound

                                * * * * *

I Utterson, Esq. Bangor, bound

                                * * * * *

C. W. W. Wynne, Esq. M.P. Llangedwin

H. R. Williams, Esq. Penrhos

R. Lloyd Williams, Esq. Denbigh 2 copies

W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli bound

Iames Wyatt, Esq. Lime Grove, two copies

Archibald Worthington, Esq. Bangor

I. Williams, Esq. Pant, Anglesey

Thomas Williams, Esq. Beaumaris

William Williams, Esq. Hendrewaelod

Iohn Williams, Esq. Tregarnedd

Richard Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon

W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon

Rev. W. Williams, Bangor Street, do

Robert Williams, Esq. Solicitor, do bd

Rev. R. Williams, Friars, Bangor bd

.... D. Williams, Llandwrog

.... Iames Williams, Treffos, Anglesey

....  Hugh Williams, Clynog, 2 copies

.... Dr. Williams, Llanbedrog

.... W. Williams, Trawsfynydd

.... E. Williams, Llanrhaiadr

.... G. Williams, Weeg

.... Mr. Williams, Treffos

.... Gethin Williams, Rhiwlas, bd

.... I. Williams, Llanbedr

Captain Walker, Bangor

Mr. Williams, Castle Inn, do. 3 copies

.. E. Williams, Strand, London, two dozen

.. Williams, Druggist, Carnarvon bd

.. Williams, Land Surveyor, Bangor

.. Williams, Solicitor, do

.. I. Willians, Shopkeeper, Carnarvon

.. Robert Williams, do do

.. Williams, Pool Street do

.. Williams, Plumber do

.. Wakeman do bd

.. Owen Wynne, do bd

.. Williams, Druggist, Pwllheli

.. I. Watkin, Tanner, Abereirch

.. H. D. Williams, Surgeon, Llansaintffraid




HISTORY
OF
_CARNARVONSHIRE_.


CARNARVONSHIRE, one of the six Counties of North Wales, is bounded on the
West by the Irish sea, on the North by the strait called Menai, which
divides it from Anglesey; Merionethshire extends along the Southern
coast, and Denbighshire limits the Eastern.

As Travellers generally enter this County either along the Conway or
Capel Curig Road, it may be more convenient, for their sakes, to commence
its History with a short account of the Town and neighbourhood of



CONWAY.


But before we proceed to a description of the Town, it may be necessary
to inform the stranger that there is a District of this County, on the
Denbighshire, or East side of the River Conway; and whether he be a
Botanist, a Mineralogist, a Naturalist, or Antiquary, he may, if he have
leisure, spend a few days on this side of the water with pleasure and
advantage.  This detached part of the County of Carnarvon is called
_Creuddin yn Rhos_, and is celebrated for producing very excellent wheat;
it contains three Parishes, Llangwstenin, Llan Rhôs, or more properly
Llanfair yn Rhôs, and Llandudno.—In and about the ruins of old Diganwy,
or Dingonwy, now called _y Faerdre_, and in Gloddaith woods, the Botanist
will find a great number of rare Plants, while the Mineralogist will be
tempted to examine the Copper Mines at Llandudno, and the Historian and
Antiquary be induced to visit the curious collection of old Books and
Manuscripts, in the libraries of Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, (Bod
Caswallawn) two old family seats, belonging to Sir Thomas Mostyn Bart.
the former built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, since which period it
has undergone very little or no alteration, and almost all the old
furniture is preserved in the same state.  Marle has also been a fine old
house, but was nearly burnt down about seventy years ago; it was at one
time the property of the Hollands, then of Sir Gryffydd Williams, of
Penrhyn, and on the death of his grandson Sir Robert, it devolved to Sir
Thomas Prendergast, an Irish Gentleman, in right of his Lady, Anne,
sister to Sir Robert, but at present this house, as well as the Ferry of
Conway, art in the possession of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great
Marlow.

On the very summit of the high Promontory of Ormshead, or Gogarth, is
situated the small Church of Llandudno, dedicated to St. Tudno, whose
rocking stone (Maen sigl or Cryd-Tudno) is not very far distant.  On the
Western side of this Mountain is a tremendous precipice, over-hanging the
sea, and these rocks are frequented in the summer season by great numbers
of birds of passage; the Gulls occupy the lowest range, above them are
the Razor-bills and Guillemots, over these croak the Corvorants, and the
Herons possess the uppermost projections and ledges of this stupendous
rock; the Peregrine Falcon also builds his nest in these impending crags.
In the days of Falconry these birds were considered so excellent, that
the great minister BURLEIGH, sent a letter of thanks to an ancestor of
Sir Thomas MOSTYN’S, for a present of a cast of Hawks from this place.
The British name of this hill, _Gogarth_, seems to be derived from ogo,
or gogo, a Cave, and Garth, a Promontory, for there are several caves
under this rock, and particularly one very large, inaccessible except by
water; not far from it are the ruins of an old Palace, belonging to the
Bishops of Bangor; there is also a farm house near the spot, known by the
above name, Gogarth.  Mr. Pennant says, (but upon what authority is not
known) that this tract of Land was an appendage of the Abbey of Conway.

The Castle of Deganwy, or Dingonwy, called by the English, Ganoe, and
afterwards, by the fault of transcribers, corrupted into Gannock, was
celebrated in the wars, between the two nations; the small remains of it
are on two hills, not far from the shore of the river, nearly opposite
the Town of Conway, but nearer to the sea; there is a house a little
below it, which still bears the name, and was lately inhabited by Lord
Kirkwall; the walls of the old Castle surrounded these two rocks, and on
the summit of one of them is the vestige of a round Tower;—In all
probability this, as well as most Welsh Castles, was originally
constructed of _timber_, as it is asserted in our Histories, that it was
destroyed by lightning, in the year 810, {12}—the founder of it is not
known.  It was afterwards rebuilt, and was for some time in the
possession of the Earls of Chester, when it was again destroyed by
Llewelyn the Great;—Randle de Blondeville then repaired it, and King John
encamped under its walls in the year 1211, and was reduced to great
distress by the skill and prudence of Llewelyn, who contrived to cut off
his supplies.  Henry III. suffered still greater calamities near this
place, in the year 1245, at which time John de Grey, of Wilton, was
Constable; one of his courtiers most pathetically describes their
miseries.  At length Diganwy was in 1260 totally dismantled by our last
Prince, Llewelyn ap Gryffydd.

Not far from hence, on the top of a hill, is an ancient Tower; its form
is circular, its height about 20 feet, the diameter 12; its walls compose
only two thirds of a circle, the rest is open.  In all probability it was
a Watch Tower, and connected with Diganwy as a place of retreat.  The
name of this District, Creuddin, seems to be derived from Creu, or Crau,
blood, or gore, and Din, or Dinas, a fortified place; and was so
denominated, in all probability, from the many bloody battles fought here
between the English and Welsh.  The fine view of Conway Castle and the
Bennarth woods, from this side of the river, is greatly and deservedly
admired.  The original name of Conway was Caer Gyffin, and it probably
was inhabited, and was a place of some strength, prior to the
establishment of a Cistercian Abbey here, in 1185, by Llewelyn ap
Jorwerth, Prince of North Wales, and it then no doubt increased in
opulence and respectability, as the privileges of the members of this
community, like many others of a similar description, were very
considerable; in the first place they were to be exempt in all parts from
Tolls and Pontage, and they had a right to a free passage over the
ferries of the Menai, Conway, Barmouth, and Dyfi, (or Dôfwy) and it was
endowed with Lands to a great extent, both in this County and in
Anglesey; Caput Wedva vawr, (Snowdon) Crib Goch, near Llanberis, and
Morfa Dinlle, are mentioned.  The Castle was built by Edward the first,
about the year 1284, who being apprehensive, probably, that he might find
these monks and their attendants very unpleasant and troublesome
neighbours, he removed them to Maenan, about 8 miles higher up on the
Denbighshire side of the river, and not far from Llanrwst, where there is
an old family seat belonging to Lord Newborough, which still retains the
name of the Abbey.  The town of Conway has four entrances: The upper
Gate, the lower, or that next to the River, a Portal between that and the
Castle, and another to the Creek called Porth y felin, or the Gate to the
mill.  Mr. PENNANT’S observation with respect to this place is this, “a
more ragged Town is scarcely to be seen _within_, or a more beautiful one
_without_;” the form is nearly triangular, surrounded with lofty Walls,
and guarded by 24 round Towers; the lower face of the triangle borders on
the River.  The Castle is built on a lofty rock, at the S. E. corner, and
is generally considered (as the same Historian remarks,) a structure of
“matchless magnificence,” and a more beautiful Fortress, perhaps, never
arose.  The Architect, Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, (the person under
whose direction Carnarvon Castle was also built) seems to have exerted
all his skill here.  It had two entrances, one up a steep rock from the
River, with winding stairs, and ending in a small advanced work, before
one of the Gates of the Castle, and protected by small round Towers; at
the other extremity is a similar work; from which there was a drawbridge
into the Town.—Over a great Foss, in one of the great Towers, is a
beautiful oriel window.  The form of this Fortress is oblong, one side is
bounded by the River, another by a Creek, full of water at every tide;
within are two Courts, and on the outside project eight vast Towers, each
with a slender one of amazing elegance issuing from its top, within which
was a winding staircase.

The great Hall was very magnificent, and was of a curved form,
conformable to the bend of the outward Walls, including one end with a
large window, which seems to have been the private Chapel; it was one
hundred and thirty feet in length, and thirty broad, and of great height;
the roof was supported by eight noble Arches, six of which still remain
there was a great fireplace at one end, and another on the side, it had
six windows to the country and three to the Court, and beneath it were
vast Vaults and Cellars.  The foundation of one of the Towers next the
Creek has been undermined, and it is now denominated the _Hanging Tower_.

Edward the First made this Town a Free Borough, and ordered that the
Mayor (who was the Constable of the Castle for the time being) should
preserve its privileges.  William Sikun was appointed first to that
honor.  At present it is governed by one Alderman, a Recorder, Coroner,
Water-bailiff, and two Serjeants at Mace, chosen annually.  Its
privileges extended from Carnarvon to the River Clwyd, and no one could
be convicted of any crime within its limits, except by a Jury collected
in that District, and such was the case with all the other English
Garrisons in North Wales.

Conway is a Contributory Borough, with Carnarvon, Pwllheli, Nevin, and
Crickaeth, in returning a Member to Parliament.  The Great Sessions for
the County were formerly held here, alternately with Carnarvon, but the
latter place being more central, enjoys that privilege at present
exclusively.  The resident population in this Parish in 1801 was 889.
The Market is on Friday.  Conway is 232 miles N.W. from London.  The
passage over the river is attended with many inconveniences, and not many
years ago a boat was upset, and several lives lost.  The ferrymen are
said to be very uncivil, and are accused of practising great impositions
on strangers. {17}  The regular charge ought to be one penny for a foot
passenger, two-pence for a man and horse, and half a crown a wheel for a
carriage, but they generally demand more than double these sums, and then
importune for liquor.

It is to be hoped that when the improvements now executing on the
Shrewsbury road are completed, Government will pay the same attention to
the Chester line, and that a Bridge will be erected here, over the
Conway; as this is the principal communication between Dublin and the
North of England.

Plas mawr, (the great mansion) an old house in the centre of the town,
built by Robert Wynne, Esq. a branch of the Gwydir family, in the year
1585, will be likely to attract the traveller’s attention.  Over the
gateway are the words Anechou, Apechou, sustine, abstine; and on the
House these capital letters, IHS. X.P.S. being the Ancient method of
inscribing our Saviour’s name.  The Church, the ruins of an old Abbey,
and another old House, called the College, also claim a visit from the
stranger.

Gyffin, a Parish Church, about half a mile off, on the road to Llanrwst,
is a Stipendiary Cure, and is generally annexed to Conway.  The late
Doctor Jones, Dean of Bangor, left £100. the interest of which he
directed to be applied to the keeping of a School here.  The Vicarage of
Conway, as well as Gyffin, are in the patronage of the Bishop of Bangor.
On the summit of the hill below the town, and nearly opposite to the
bifurcated rock, on which stood the Castle of Diganwy, are the ruins of
an ancient fortification, of a circular form, with only one entrance, and
this probably is the place mentioned by Leland, in his Itinerary, and
which he denominates Sinnodun, and where, he says, there are the remains
of a great work; it is described by him as being a mile out of the town,
but in what direction is not mentioned.  Camden also mentions a British
Post, called Caer Lleion, surrounded by Ditches and strong Ramparts, on a
lofty hill, near Conway marsh.  The Castle of Sinnodun is also
represented as being situated near this place, in a Map of the County,
annexed to a very old edition of that Author’s Britannia.  As this small
work is intended merely as a guide to the Tourist, in his excursion
through the County, it cannot be expected to contain a very _detailed_ or
_particular_ account of every object, which may deserve attention; for
this reason the Compiler must pass over the siege of this Castle, during
the Rebellion, in Oliver Cromwell’s time, and merely observe, that the
custody of it was committed by the King to Archbishop Williams, of the
Penrhyn family, near Bangor, and after the gentlemen and freeholders of
the neighbourhood had placed a number of valuable articles under his
care, and for which he had given them receipts, and thus became
answerable for the property, he was, in 1645, cruelly dispossessed by
Prince Rupert, without assigning any reason for this strange conduct; it
was taken, however, from the Prince in June, 1646, by General Mytton.
The Archbishop was buried in the Church of Llandegai, near Bangor, where
his Monument is still to be seen.

It would puzzle any one, unacquainted with the mistakes and blunders of
transcribers, to conjecture how TOISOBIUS should become PTOLEMY’S
CONOBIUS, or Conovius, (or Conovium) but when we reflect a little, it may
be supposed, that the initial C, might be easily mistaken for T, and the
v converted into b, so as to form TOINOBIUS, instead of COINOVIUS.  The
derivation of the word Cynwy, seems to be, as Mr. Edward Llwyd
conjectures, from _Cyn_, chief or principal, and _Gwy_, or _wy_, water;
the prefix _cyn_, being augmentative, as cyn-gann, very white; cyn-dynn,
very stiff; or signifying first or chief, as cynfyd, the old antediluvian
world; cyn-ddydd, daybreak; and Dr. Davies supposes _cyn_ to be
synonymous with penn, as _cyntaf_, _penaf_, first or chief.  Admitting
this, _Cungetorix_ would be _Cyntwrch_, and _Cunobelinus_, _Cynfelyn_,
_&c._

The River Conway has been celebrated for ages, for its muscle-pearl
fishery.  Pliny informs us, that Julius Cæsar dedicated to Venus
Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a Breastplate set with British Pearls;
and Suetonius alledges the acquisition of these, as one motive for his
invasion of the Island.  Mr. Edward Llwyd asserts that the pearls found
in this river are as large, and as well coloured, as any in Great Britain
or Ireland, and says that he saw several very fine large ones in the
possession of Robert Wynne, Esq. of Bodysgallen.  Mr. Pennant
distinguishes this shell-fish by the name of _Mya Margaritifera_.  A vein
of Burr, (a species of Mill-stones) was discovered near Conway, about the
year 1800, but being inferior in quality to those brought from France,
there is no great demand for them.

The ancient _Conovium_, for some time the station of the Tenth Roman
Legion, was no doubt at Caer Rhun, about five miles up the River, and
near the Parish Church of that name; as a Roman Hypocaust, a small
Shield, and a great number of Roman Coins were discovered there, by the
late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, late Vicar of the Parish, a gentleman of
great worth and integrity, highly esteemed and respected in his
neighbourhood, and a person who had a great taste for the study of
Antiquities.  And what renders this conjecture more probable is this,
that there is a hill not far distant, which is still called Mynydd Caer
Lleon, or the Hill of the Legion.  The Rev. W. Brickdale, at that time
Rector of Llanrwst, saw several Roman bricks, dug up near the Church of
Caer Rhun, which were inscribed LEG. X.  This Legion was denominated
Antoniana Augusta.  The XXth, stationed at Chester, (CAER LLEON GAWR, or
CAER LLEION AR DDYFRDWY) was distinguished by the name VICESSIMA VICTRIX,
and the Second Legion, stationed at CAER LEON, in Monmouthshire, or CAER
LLEON AR WYSC, was known by the title of AUGUSTA BRITANNICA.  And there
was (no doubt) a Roman Road from hence to Segontium on the West, and to
Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys, on the East, and another probably through
Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y
street, Dolgelley; Castell y Beri, near Tal y Llynn, to Penal near
Machynlleth, where there was a Roman encampment, and where very
considerable remains were discovered.

The admirer of picturesque and romantic Scenery would, no doubt, consider
his time well employed, and find his propensity amply gratified, were he
to deviate here, from the direct road to Bangor and Carnarvon, and trace
the Conway to its source, or at least to its junction with the Lledr and
Machno; he would then pass very near Caer Rhun, the ancient Conovium, and
in proceeding along the banks of this beautiful River, would be able to
visit a great number of Water-falls, and he would find the Scenery
constantly changing, and new beauties presenting themselves to his view,
at almost every turn of the road.  My limits will merely allow me to
enumerate some of the objects which claim his attention, and ought to be
visited, which are the numerous Cascades on the right, between Llanbedr
(near Caer Rhun) and Trevriw; the old House of Gwydir, and its beautiful
woods; the town of Llanrwst, and particularly the old Monuments in the
Church, to the memory of the Wynne’s, the ancient Proprietors of Gwydir,
and the handsome Bridge over the Conway, supposed to have been erected by
the celebrated Inigo Jones, who is said to have been a native of that
neighbourhood.  Near this town are also several Lead Mines.  The
traveller will then proceed through the Gwydir woods, up to the Village
of Bettws y Coed, and the new Iron Waterloo Bridge, over the Conway, on
the Great Irish Road; he will next visit the falls of the Conway and
Machno, and then return to Bettws, and proceed up the river Lligwy; when
about half way between that Village and Capel Curig Inn, he will stop to
view Rhaidr y Wennol, a tremendous Cateract, and from the last mentioned
Inn, he may either continue his rout along the Irish road to Bangor, or
direct his course to Bethgelert Village, which is a stage of twelve
miles, or turn off on the right from that road, after he has proceeded
about four miles, for the Village of Llanberris, through its wonderful
pass, and from the new Inn, which we shall have occasion hereafter to
notice, he will be able to procure a guide to the summit of Snowdon.  But
as most strangers will no doubt proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall
be my endeavour to act as their guide, and mention some of the
particulars which are worth their attention along this line of road: For
the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he comes to an opening
between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when all of a sudden a
most magnificent scene presents itself: from hence he commands a full
view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of small vessels;
the Puffin, or Priestholm Island, the Village of Llangoed, the Town of
Beaumaris, Baron Hill, and the Friars; the former the beautiful seat of
Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter that of his brother, Sir Robert
Williams, Baronet, M.P. all on the Anglesey shore;—On the Carnarvonshire
side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle, and last, though not least, the huge
Pen-maen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, forming a natural
barrier, in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut off every
communication this way, and render any further progress impracticable;
the art of man has, however, at length conquered these difficulties, and
surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772 an excellent road was
formed along the edge of this once tremendous and dangerous precipice,
under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, Parliament having
generously voted a grant for this purpose.  Prior to this event several
fatal accidents had happened here, and one or two nearly miraculous
escapes are recorded in Mr. PENNANT’S Tour through North Wales.  At that
time no carriages passed this way, and consequently all the travelling
was either on foot or on horseback.  Dean Swift was generally a
Pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines, written on a
pane of glass at the old Inn, (now a Farm House) near this Mountain:—

    Before you venture here to pass,
    Take a good refreshing glass;—
    And when you are over, take another,
    Your fainting spirits to recover.

Before the Traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned,
to the little Vale of Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the
left, in order to examine some Antiquities, near a place called Gwddw
Glâs, in that Parish; here are several circles of stones of various
diameters, and large Carneddau, viz. Barrows, or Tumuli, supposed to have
been memorials of those Heroes who fell in the field of battle, as
_Cistfaens_, or Stone Coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these
circular heaps, or collections of stones.  The principal Circle now
consists of ten upright stones, at unequal distances, the largest is
eight feet three inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two;
the diameter of this Circle is eighty feet.  Near this are four other
smaller Circles, in the centre of one is a flat stone, the remains of a
Cromlech, from which it may be conjectured that it was a Druidical or
Bardic Circle.  About a quarter of a mile from these is a large Circle,
composed of small stones, and near it another of large stones; and not
far from these another Circle, composed of small ones.—Near the last is a
huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the Stone of Games; and
nearly contiguous is a Carnedd, and a small Circle of twelve stones;
adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now called in this
country, Cyttiau Gwyddelod, (Woodmen or Irishmen’s Huts) being the
foundations of small buildings, made of rounded stones; and the vestige
of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the Conway.
Some of these last might probably have been the summer habitations or
encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion, stationed at Caer
Rhun or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their Cattle.  Having
mentioned Maen y Campian, it may not perhaps be considered a digression
to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British Games, of which there were
ten _Gwrolgampau_, or manly games, viz. 1.  To lift up great weights; 2.
Running; 3.  Leaping; 4.  Swimming; 5.  Wrestling; 6.  Riding.  These six
were stiled _Tadogion_, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up persons,
and required only bodily strength and activity; this last, _Marchogaeth_,
is supposed to have included Charioteering, or the skilful driving and
management of different kinds of carriages.  The other four were, 1.
Archery; 2.  Playing with the Sword and Buckler; 3.  Playing with the
Cleddau deuddwrn, or two-handed Sword; 4.  Chwarau ffonn ddwybig, or
playing with the two-end Staff or Spear.  Next to these were the ten
_Mabolgampau_, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men, viz. 1.
Coursing; 2.  Fishing; 3.  Fowling; the remaining seven were of the
domestic kind: 1.  Barddoniaeth, or Poetical Composition; 2.  Chwareu’r
Delyn, or paying upon the Harp; 3.  Reading Welsh; 4.  Singing with the
Harp; 5.  Singing between three or four, most probably in alternate
Stanzas, or Pennillion; 6.  Drawing or Painting, particularly Coats of
Arms; 7.  Heraldry.  After these were four _Gogampiau_, or Minor Games,
viz. 1.  Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of Draughts; 2.
Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably Back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be
derived from the Welsh Language, viz. Bach, little, and _Cammawn_, or
Gammon, Battle, and Tewl-Bwrdd, means the toss on the table; 3.  Chwarau
Ffristeal, or the Game of the Dice Box, in what manner it was played is
not known at present; 4.  Cyweiriaw Telyn, or the Tuning of the Harp.

After visiting these Circles, the traveller may either proceed to the top
of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dwygyfylchi Church,
not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is Pendyffryn, the
seat of T. Smith, Esq.—In the clefts of the rock, above the
Turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the CRATÆGUS ARIA, or White Beam
Tree; Mr. Pennant observes that the Swiss procure a good kind of Ardent
Spirit from the berries.  The summit of this mountain seems to have been
fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are
still visible the remains of a great number of Huts, or small buildings,
most probably at one time the habitations of Soldiers; it was no doubt a
strong military Post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the
Britons and Romans.  The Roman Road, from Segontium to Conovium, must
have passed near it, probably on the South side; and this high mountain,
so conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind
of link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication between this
County and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick, (now
called Pen Dinas) a Roman Encampment in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen,
near Carnarvon, on the West, and from many fortified eminences in the
other County, on the East.  The usual signals in ancient times were fires
by night, and a particular kind of flag by day.  Having examined _Braich
y Dinas_, which is the name by which the fortified part of the mountain
is distinguished, we now proceed along the high road through the Parish
of Llanfair fechan, and leaving that small Church on an eminence, a
little to the left of the road, and on the right Brynn y Neuadd, an old
neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq.
and afterwards conveyed to the Wynne’s of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by
the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family, we soon pass
Gorddinog, (Mrs. Crawley’s) also on the left, and soon reach the
beautiful little Village of Aber, situated near a small river, and at the
entrance of a narrow Glenn.  Near the Bridge is a Circular Mount,
seemingly artificial, which was the foundation of a small Castle,
probably constructed of timber, as many of our Welsh Fortresses are
stated to have been consumed by fire.  Several of the Welsh Princes
resided occasionally at this place, and David ap Llywelyn died here,
about the year 1246, and was buried in the Abbey of Conway.

Traces of Buildings have been discovered near this spot, which were
probably the remains of the Prince’s Palace, as the inhabitants still
pretend to shew strangers the foundation of the old kitchen.  Several
Memorials, &c. appear in our Welsh Histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn,
which is the ancient name by which this place was distinguished.  William
de Breos, (son of Reginald, a potent Baron in the Reign of Henry III.)
who had been taken prisoner by the Welsh Prince Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, was
detected in an intrigue with Joan his wife, (daughter to the King of
England).  The enraged Prince, upon the discovery of her infidelity,
caused her paramour to be hung on the side of the opposite hill; and
there is a tradition, that the Princess going out the next morning, and
accidentally meeting the Bard of the Palace, the latter (knowing that she
was ignorant of the fate of her lover) accosted her in the following
poetical rhyme:

    Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,
    Beth a roit ti am welad Gwilym?

that is, “Tell me wife of Llywelyn, what you would give for a sight of
your William?” to which she answered:—

    Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn,
    Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!

    _i.e._ Wales and England, and Llywelyn,
    I would give them all to see my William!

The Bard, on receiving this answer, shewed him to her, hanging on a tree,
on the side of a hill, at a place now called Wern Grogedig.  It is added
in Camden, “Tradition buries De Breos in a Cave, in a field called Cae
Gwilym Ddu.” {30}  Nearly at the extremity of this romantic Glenn, about
a mile from the Village, the River forms a noble Cataract, precipitating
itself down the front of a bold lofty rock, and making a double fall, the
lowest of which is of very considerable height.  This Village is much
frequented in the summer season, and the accommodations at the Inn are
very good.  The beach, at high water, is very convenient for sea-bathing,
and many strangers remain here some time for that purpose.  There is a
road from hence, over the mountain, by Bwlch y Ddau Faen, to Tal y Cafn
ferry, Llanbedr and Llanrwst; and another over the sands to Beaumaris,
but this latter is not to be attempted by a stranger without a guide.  It
is remarked by Mr. Pennant that all the Passes between the mountains were
guarded by Forts and Castles, for besides this at Aber, Craig y Gaer and
Maes y Gaer were fortified; and there was a Fort at Nant Ffranco; (or
Nant Afangcwn) near Pont y Twr, another at Dolbadarn, Nant Pevis; Castell
Cidwm, Nant y Bettws; Craig y Dinas, near Llanllyfni; a Fort near
Dolbenmaen, and an old Cattle at Dolydd Elen, and Dinas Emrys, in Nant
Gwynant, near Bethgelert.  Lord Bulkeley is the proprietor of the
greatest part of the Parish of Aber, and he has been a great benefactor
to this Church, as well as to all the others in his Lordship’s Patronage,
having built a tower (or Steeple) to each, at his own expence, and
furnished them with Bells.  The distance from hence to Bangor is about
five miles, and as the stranger proceeds he cannot help admiring the
ever-varying Scene, and the beauty of the prospects which present
themselves to his view: On the Anglesey shore, the Town of Beaumaris,
Baron Hill, The Friars, Red Hill, &c. claim his attention; and directly
before him, on the Carnarvonshire side, he will perceive the Village and
much-admired Church of Llandegai, and near it Penrhyn Woods and Castle,
rising in Majestic grandeur.  The Church of Llandegai has lately been
very much improved and beautified, by means of a very handsome Legacy,
left by the late Lady Penrhyn for that purpose.  The whole of the
interior has been renewed, viz. the Seats, Pulpit, Communion, Ceiling,
Plastering, and Floor, and the Tower raised, in order to admit a Peal of
Six Bells, a Legacy for which having been also left by Lady Penrhyn, as
well as one for the erection of a Monument to her deceased Lord, which is
now fixed up in the Church, and is a most superb and elegant piece of
work; it is made of Statuary Marble, and represents two Figures, one a
Quarryman, with an Iron Bar and Slate knife in his hand, reading the
inscription, and reflecting on the loss of his benefactors, the other is
a female Peasant Girl, weeping over the loss of her deceased Lord and
Lady; there are some other smaller Figures, very descriptive of the
progress of improvement amongst the Peasantry, under the directing
influence of his Lordship.

Whilst we are speaking of Llandegai Village and Church, we must not omit
here to notice a very great improvement, and accommodation to the public,
which has been effected, at very considerable expence, through the
liberality of Mr. Pennant, we mean the new piece of road, to the left,
made to avoid that dangerous and ugly hill near the Church.  This part of
the County has within the last thirty years been abundantly improved by
the late Lord Penrhyn, under the judicious management and direction of
Benjamin Wyatt, Esq. of Lime Grove, his Lordship’s Agent, two individuals
who were real benefactors to the Country, and whose names have every
claim to the grateful recollections not only of the inhabitants of this
neighbourhood, but of all those whom business or pleasure may induce to
enter this County, by way of Capel Curig and Nant Ffrancon, which is now
the great Post Road from Shrewsbury to Holyhead.  At the former place, an
Inn, upon a very commodious and extensive scale, has been erected by the
late Lord Penrhyn; and his successor, Mr. Pennant, with the view of
giving greater facility and convenience to Travellers, has lately erected
there a Cottage and Stables near the road, in order to give those who
might find it inconvenient to go down to the Inn, an opportunity of
changing horses at the road, and also for the better accommodation of the
Mail and Stage Coaches; he has likewise built new Stables at Tynymaes,
and made the Inn there into a Posting House, to divide that long and
tedious stage, which used to be from Capel Curig to Bangor-ferry.  Capel
Curig is distant from Bangor about 15 miles, S.W.—The road to it is
carried up the romantic and stupendous Valley of Nant Ffrancon.  The
formation of such a road, in so rude and unfrequented a region, was one
of the earliest and most important improvements which the late Lord
Penrhyn effected, in this part of the Country; it has since undergone, in
proportion to the increase of pecuniary resources, and to the progress of
other local improvements, frequent alterations, and is now, from the
munificence of Government, who have lately taken this affair into their
own hands, one of the most perfect and magnificent roads, in the kingdom.
But, important as this work was, at its commencement, under the public
spirit of Lord Penrhyn, it is far from being all which was accomplished
or promoted by that patriotic nobleman.  The following extract from a
memoir of the late Mr. Wyatt, published in the North Wales Gazette for
January, 1818, will give us a more enlarged view of this matter:—

    “It was by so able an exercise of his judgment and taste, that the
    domain of Penrhyn, at that period a very wilderness, disregarded as a
    place of residence, and the house in a state of venerable
    dilapidation, was heightened into its present circumstances of
    dignified and stately elegance—that a wild and unprofitable morass
    has since been made to assume, in the admired situation and
    arrangements of Lime Grove, the features of comfort, of profit, and
    of ornament—that the agricultural properties of the Estate were
    promoted into a condition of progressive improvement; the cottage of
    the labourer, and the habitation of the tenantry, in many instances,
    into dwellings of neatness and comfort to themselves, giving
    animation, variety, and interest to the scenery which surrounded
    them—that such excellent facilities were effected for bringing into
    light and action, the hidden and long neglected treasures of the
    slate rock on the banks of the Ogwen; which, through a happy union of
    subsequent commercial interests, and the spirited manner in which
    those interests are conducted, are now so richly swelled into a
    stream of affluence to the proprietor, and of honest industry and
    subsistence to many hundreds of the poor.—Such are a few, but far
    from being all the testimonies, which this country now exhibits of
    the judgment and abilities of the late Mr. Wyatt; nor ought we,
    indeed, to have omitted in this short catalogue, as remarkable
    monuments of his well-cultivated taste, the noble marine Baths at
    Penrhyn, the fascinating and graceful Villa at Ogwen Bank, and the
    characteristic order and embellishments of the Dairy farm at
    Pen-isa-nant.”

The Slate Quarry is distant about six miles from Bangor, on the road to
Capel Curig, and is in every respect worthy of a visit from the Tourist;
it exhibits a most interesting and surprising display of art and
industry, from 7 to 800 men being in constant employment there, and the
vast excavation, which from near thirty years labour at it, is now made
into the heart of the mountain, presents to the view a variety of
picturesque and magnificent scenery, richly deserving the inspection of
the artist.  Within half a mile of the Slate Quarry is Ogwen Bank, an
elegant and romantic little retreat—a perfect _bijou_, designed by the
late Lord Penrhyn, and still used by the family, as an occasional resort
for refreshment and recreation, on paying a morning visit to the Quarry,
or other objects of curiosity in the vicinity.  Near to this is
Pen-issa-nant, formerly intended as a Dairy and Poultry Farm to Penrhyn
Castle, for which purposes, the most ample, elegant, and ingenious
arrangements were made, and the house designed and fitted up with
peculiar simplicity and prettiness, perfectly correspondent with the
nature of its object.  These two places are accessible to all respectable
visitors; the road to them, from Bangor, abounds in grand and interesting
prospects.—Penrhyn Castle and Woods, at all times a rich and remarkable
feature in the Scenery—the Sea, bounded by the distant Promontory of
Ormes Head—the protruding bulkiness of Pen-maen-mawr—the bold and mighty
barrier of Mountains, forming the most picturesque lines with the
horizon, and extending nearly all round the distant Scene—these are the
chief ingredients of this distinguished and beautiful landscape.  The
present proprietor of Penrhyn Castle is G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. to whom
the property was left.  This gentleman seems to possess a spirit of
improvement no less active than his noble predecessor.  The Park, which
till within these few years formed the domain to this stately residence,
has been very extensively enlarged by the present proprietor, who has
enclosed the same by a wall of considerable length, which is done in a
manner deserving the example of others, for its neat, strong, and
masterly work;—the coping of the wall is peculiarly handsome, and
characteristic of the county, being formed of the waste ends of the Slate
rock, fixed in a rough and uneven manner, giving the whole a bold and
substantial appearance.—Within the precincts of this Park, and protruding
a considerable distance into the sea, is a very handsome building,
containing a large private sea-water bath, with warm baths contiguous to
it.  This edifice is understood to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn not
less than £4000. and perhaps not to be equalled for elegance and
commodiousness in the kingdom.  Penrhyn Castle is itself a modern
building, (with the exception of one small circular Tower) and was
erected by Lord Penrhyn, from designs of the late Samuel Wyatt, Esq., a
brother of his Lordship’s Agent, before-mentioned.  The principal rooms
are commodious and elegant, particularly the Drawing-room, which is a
very stately and handsome apartment, but the Architecture of the house
cannot be said fairly to bear any technical character; being neither of
the Grecian, Roman, Gothic, nor English domestic stile, but an insipid
and unmeaning attempt at all.  Rumour however says, that the present
proprietor contemplates some very important improvements.  The situation
is one which has every claim to a noble and distinguished edifice.

Lime Grove, the neat and appropriate residence of Mr. Wyatt, the Agent of
Mr. Pennant, (and son of the former Mr. Wyatt, before alluded to) is
situated in the lower part of Penrhyn Park, to the West; this house was
also planned by the late S. Wyatt, Esq. and in point of chasteness and
technical purity, is more creditable to his taste than the greater work
at Penrhyn Castle.  The grounds, and what may be called the rural economy
of Lime Grove, have ever been deservedly admired.

Contiguous to this part of Penrhyn Park, and to the North West of it, is
Port Penrhyn.—This is a very noble and commodious arrangement, made for
the accommodation of the Merchant Vessels, employed for the conveyance of
the Slate from the afore-mentioned Quarry, to different parts of the
Kingdom, and for receiving and stowing the productions of that Quarry
until they are lodged on board the Vessels waiting to receive them.  The
vastly increasing demand for these Slates, {38} necessarily requires a
proportionate scale of the means for supplying it, consequently the Quay,
at Port Penrhyn, has lately undergone very considerable enlargement, by
the present proprietor, G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. which alike does credit to
his liberal spirit in projecting it, as to the builder in its masterly
execution; it will accommodate 50 sail, in addition to the old Quay, and
will greatly facilitate the Trade there.  The beautiful Bridge too, which
Mr. Pennant is now building over the Cegin, at Port Penrhyn, will
considerably improve the communication between that place and the Town of
Bangor, and be a great public accommodation in other respects, at the
same time it makes a handsome finish to the Pier, which we understand to
be upwards of 300 yards in length, and we have no hesitation in saying
that when the whole is completed, it will form one of the most complete
Shipping places in the Principality.  The Slates are conveyed from the
Quarry, in Nant Ffrancon, to this Port, a distance of 8 miles, by means
of small waggons, linked together in succession, and running upon a
rail-road.  The expedition and facility with which the Slates are thus
conveyed from the Quarry to the Ships is very remarkable.

Proceeding from Port Penrhyn to Bangor, the situation of the Inn, called
the Penrhyn Arms, at less than a quarter of a mile from the Port, on the
brow of the hill, is well worthy of observation.  The view from the
Bowling-green, attached to this house, is very celebrated, and deservedly
so.  The component parts of this fine picture need not be detailed to the
stranger, who visits and sees it—but in a word it may be said to be a
most majestic, impressive and interesting Scene.

From this rich and animating display of nature’s works, we must now (as
faithful pioneers through the County of Carnarvon) turn our eyes to the
works of Art in this neighbourhood; the first that presents itself is the
great Post Road, from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which has been lately much
altered, and in many places in this vicinity entirely diverted from the
old line.  It has been found necessary, in order to render the ascent
near the Penrhyn Arms easier, to cut about 12 or 15 feet deep, and one or
two hundred in length, and to throw an Archway over, to preserve the
communication from the above Inn to the Terrace, a handsome mansion, and
in point of Scenery, beautifully situated, but which, from the
above-mentioned excavation, seems to the passing Traveller, to rest on an
insecure foundation.  But before we proceed farther, and that we may
preserve uniformity, it will be necessary to present our readers with a
short History of



BANGOR.


So called from Bann and Cor, the great or lofty Choir, (and not from
Pen-chor, as Mr. Nicholas Owen supposes); it is an episcopal See, and a
small Market Town, situated in a narrow defile, near a small brook called
_Tor onnen_, (as Leland informs us) opening gradually to the Sea,
Eastward, which comes within less than a quarter of a mile of the Town.
St. Dubricius, (called by the Welsh Dufrig Ben eurog) who was Archbishop
of Caerlleon, upon Usk, in Monmouthshire, is said to have consecrated
Daniel ap Dunod, first Bishop of this See, about the year 550.  This
Daniel or Deiniol, according to the Welsh Records, was Abbot of Bangor
Iscoed, in Flintshire, from whence he retired to this place, where he
founded a College, for the instruction of youth, and it is supposed to
have continued a Cell or Member of the other Bangor, until it was
converted into a Bishoprick by Prince Maelgun Gwynedd.  The above St.
Dubritius is reported to have resigned in favour of St. David, and to
have retired to the Island of Bardsey, (Enlli) after having assisted at
the Synod of Brevi, (now called Llanddewi Brevi, in Cardiganshire) which
circumstance is commemorated in the following Welsh lines:

    Pan oedd Saint Senedd Brevi,
    (Drwy arch y Prophwydi)
    Ar ôl gwiw Bregeth Dewi
    Yn myned i Ynys Enlli.

    “When the Saints of the Synod of Brevi, after the good sermon of St.
    David, were going (by the direction of the Prophets) to the Island of
    Bardsey.”

The extent of this Diocese, at that time, is uncertain; but the present
comprehends all Anglesey and Carnarvonshire, except the following
parishes, situated on the East of the river Conway, viz. Llysvaen, Eglwys
Rhôs, and Llangwstenin, which are in the Diocese of St. Asaph; in
Denbighshire it has fourteen Parishes; seven in Montgomeryshire, and the
greatest part of Merionethshire is also in this Diocese.

The Cathedral is a venerable Gothic building, spacious and convenient,
but, at present it may be considered, in some measure, in a dilapidated
state, as the Chapter have been waiting some time for the Lord
Chancellor’s decision as to the _quantum_ of Grant, which his Lordship
may consider necessary to allow, in order to put the Fabric in complete
repair.  Its dimensions are as follows, the North and South Cross Aisles
are 30 feet 6 inches, North and South, and 25 East and West, so that the
whole length of the Cross Aisle, from North to South, is 86 feet the
inside.  From the Arch which opens to the Choir, to the East end of the
Stalls, is 27 feet, from thence to the East end of the Bishop’s Throne 6
feet, and from thence to the Altar 21 feet, whole length of the Choir 54
feet, which added to the space of the cross Aisle 25 feet, the Nave 110
feet, Steeple 19 feet, makes the whole length from East to West, 208.
The breadth of the Choir, from wall to wall, is 26 feet 6 inches, the
breadth of the Stalls 4 feet, 6 inches, that of the Choristers seats
nearly 3 feet; the height of the Choir and Nave 34 feet, of the Aisle 24
feet; thickness of the Walls which support the Arches in the North and
South Aisles is 4 feet.  The Chapter Room was repaired and partly rebuilt
in Bishop Moore’s time, and the Nave new roofed in that of Warren.  There
are now belonging to this Cathedral, a Bishop, (H. W. Majendie, D.D.) a
Dean, (J. Warren, B.D.) three Archdeacons, two of which were annexed to
the Bishopric by Act of Parliament, A.D. 1685, a Treasurer, and two
Prebendaries, endowed; a Precentor, {43} Chancellor, and three Canons,
not endowed; two Vicars Choral, an Organist, four Lay Clerks, Choristers,
and other officers.—About the year 975, King Edgar coming into North
Wales, at Bangor confirmed the ancient privileges of the Church, and
bestowed Lands upon it, and caused a new Church to be founded on the
South side of the Cathedral, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, which
Church or Chapel was, by Dean Kyffin, converted into a Chantry of singing
Priests; this place is supposed to have been the same which afterwards
became the residence of the Vicar.  Anion, (or Eineon) Archdeacon of
Anglesey, became Bishop about the year 1268, and is reported to have held
a Synod at St. Mary’s de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of
Bangor, now entirely down, since the year 1291, but which is supposed to
have been about 400 yards from the Cathedral.  He also christened Edward
the Second, in Carnarvon Castle, April 25th, 1284, and for this and other
services, had several Manors or Regalities bestowed upon him and his
successors, as the Manor of Treffos, (said to have been afterwards the
residence of the Bishops of Bangor for some years) and some Cantreds in
the Island of Anglesey, the Ferries of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, over the
Menai, the Manors of Bangor, Castellmai and Garth Gogo, (now Gogarth).
In his time also the house in London was given.  The offices secundum
usum Bangor, were recovered by Bishop Humphreys, from a private library,
and new bound, by the direction and at the expence of the late Dr. John
Jones; it was compiled by Bishop Anian, (Eineon) or at least given by
him.  The Cathedral was destroyed in the year 1071, and was soon
afterwards re-built, for we find that in 1212, King John invaded the
country, forced the Bishop (Robert of Shrewsbury) from before the Altar,
and obliged him to pay two hundred Hawks for his ransom.  In the year
1402, it was again reduced to ruin, by the rage of Owen Glyndwr, and
continued neglected for ninety years, when the Choir was restored by
Bishop Dean or Deny.  The present body and tower were erected by that
liberal Prelate Bishop Skeffington, as appears by the following
inscription, at the West end, “_Thomas Skevington_, _Episcopus Bangoriæ_,
_hoc campanile et Ecclesiam fieri fecit Ann. partus_ 1532.”  The height
of the Tower is about sixty feet, it was to have been raised considerably
higher, but the death of the Bishop prevented the execution of that
design.  The windows were made or glazed according to the custom of the
times, by the piety of different persons, among whom may be reckoned Dean
Kyffin, and some of the Griffiths of Penrhyn.  Bishop Lloyd gave the
Bells.  On the South side of the Choir is a Mural Monument of Bishop
Morgan, who died September, 1673, aged 65, also another in memory of
Anne, daughter of Bishop Humphreys.  The Busts of Bishops Vaughan and
Rowlands, which were decapitated, and otherwise disfigured in the
fanatical times of Oliver Cromwell, were removed in 1810.  Bishop H.
Rowlands erected the Monument in memory of Bishop Vaughan, as a token of
his affection; he died Bishop of London, A.D. 1607.  Bishop Edward
Griffith is supposed to have been buried near this spot.  Bishop Rowlands
died July 1616, and is here buried, _ætatis_ 65; here also is buried
Bishop Lloyd ob. 15th Feb. 1688, _ætat._ 78.  About the space of two
stones off lie Bishop Nich. Robinson and Bishop Robert Morgan, both in
one grave; the stone is or was partly covered by the rails; Morgan died
September, 1673, aged 65.  Bishops Bailey and Meyrick were buried on the
South of the Communion Table.  One stone with a plate upon it, is this
inscription: “_Gulielmus __Glynn natus in Insula Mona_, _&c._” he was
Bishop of Bangor in 1555.  That wise and valiant Prince, Owen Gwynedd, is
supposed to have been buried beneath an Arch, with a flowery Cross cut on
a flat stone; he died regretted by his countrymen and feared by his foes,
in 1169.  On the floor is a mutilated figure, in brass, designed for
Richard Kyffin, the active Dean of the Cathedral, in the Reigns of
Richard III. and Henry VII.  He was a strenuous friend to the house of
Lancaster, and when he was Prebendary of Llanddwyn, and resident there as
Rector of the place, he concerted, in conjunction with Sir Rhys (or Rice)
ap Thomas, of Dinevor, and other Welsh Chieftains, a plan for the
bringing in the Duke of Richmond, then in Brittany, to whom they
transmitted, by means of fishing Vessels, all the necessary intelligence.
He died the 13th of August 1502.  The place of his interment was till
within these few years (and probably may be so still) distinguished by
the name of _Bedd y Deon Du_, or the grave of the black Dean, who was so
called, in all probability, from his complexion.  It appears, from the
Sebright MSS. that our wise and brave Prince Griffith ap Cynan, was
interred on the left side of the great Altar, in the year 1137, and that
an elegant shrine was erected over his grave, of which however not a
vestige now remains.  In the Parish Church of Llandegai,
before-mentioned, is still to be seen a mural Monument, with a long Latin
inscription, to the memory of the celebrated John Williams, Archbishop of
York, in the time of Charles the First; he is represented in his
episcopal Dress, kneeling at an Altar.  This great Prelate was born at
Conway; his father, _Edmund_, was sixth son of the neighbouring family of
_Cochwillan_, and a branch of that of Penrhyn; his life was written by
Bishop Hackett, and the late Rev. Sneyd Davies, after viewing the
Monument, wrote a beautiful little Poem, which is preserved in Dodsley’s
Collections.  Here is also an Alabaster Monument of an armed Man and his
Lady, recumbent; they probably belonged to the neighbouring House, but on
the dissolution were removed from the Friery of Llanvaes in Anglesey,
where the persons represented had been interred.

The Bishop’s Palace is an irregular building situate on the side of the
Hill, about one hundred yards to the North of the Cathedral; it was
partly re-built by Bishop Warren, and several handsome and commodious
apartments added to it, and it has been in other respects greatly
improved by the present worthy Prelate, Dr. Majendie.  The residence of
the Dean is nearly adjoining the Church-yard, at the N. W. end of the
Cathedral.

Nearly on the same spot where the Bangor Free Grammar School now stands,
a House of Friers Preachers was founded, according to Bishop Tanner,
about the year 1276, by Tudor ap Gronow, Lord of Penmynydd and
Trecastell, in Anglesey, who also enlarged or rebuilt it in 1299, and was
interred here in 1311.  Leland’s words are “A Priory of White Freres, by
Bangor, dedicate to Jesu: there were once White Freres at Ruthin Dyffryn
Clwyd.”  Edward VI. made a grant of this place to Thomas Brown and
William Bretton, and soon after it was converted into a Free School, by
Geffry Glynn, LL.D. an Advocate in Doctor’s Commons, and brother to
Bishop Glynn.  By his Will, proved July 21, 1557, he left the management
of it to his brother, and to Maurice Griffith, Bishop of Rochester; but
the settlement not having been completed prior to their decease, they
delegated the same power to Sir William Petre and others, who agreed on
the Statutes for the Master and Usher, with the concurrence of the
Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, and of Alexander Nowel, Dean of St. Paul’s,
who is said to have composed them.—Mr. Pennant, in his Tour, informs us
that over the chimney piece, in the old School House, there was a
fragment of an ancient Monument, to one Gryffydd, with a long sword
carved on it, and on the staircase another stone, with the words ap
Tudor, probably part of the Tomb of the founder, Tudor ap Gronw ap Tudor.
A new School-room, together with a spacious and convenient dwelling-house
for the Master, adjoining, was erected here in the time of Bishop Warren,
and some new regulations made with regard to the management of the
School.  Within the last few years a new house has also been built, a
little to the East of the former, for the residence of the Usher.  This
Seminary is at present extremely well conducted, and deservedly held in
great repute: From having been for many years the third in eminence,
(Beaumaris and Ruthin being long considered as superior to it) this
establishment is now the most flourishing place of education in this
portion of the principality.

Bishop Rowlands, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in Lleyn, founded here an
Hospital, or rather an Alms-house, for six poor men, and also a Free
School, at Bottwnog in this County, about the year 1616.  The Dispensary,
a most useful and benevolent Institution was established in this City,
October, 1809, being the 50th Anniversary of our late good King’s
Accession, and the year of Jubilee, under the patronage of that excellent
Nobleman, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, the
worthy Dean, and many other Noblemen and Gentlemen.  It is with
heart-felt satisfaction we are able to add, that its Funds continue on
the increase, and every attention is paid to the numerous patients, by
Dr. Mason, the Physician; Mr. Roberts, the Surgeon, and Mr. Pugh, the
House Apothecary.

The following tribute, to the memory of Mr. Edwards, the celebrated blind
Harper, who died at his sister’s, (Mrs. Jones, Pen yr Allt, Bangor) on
Friday, the 13th January, 1815, aged 65, may not be unacceptable to the
reader, the author is unknown:

    Ah! quench’d is now that Minstrel’s fire,
       And mute those strings, whose magic tone
    Could once e’en Cambria’s Rocks inspire,
       And move to life her mountain stone.

    Cold is the hand, that once could sweep
       The native Harp, with Bardic sway;
    Could lull each passion rude to sleep,
       And drive the steps of care away.

    Ah come ye kindred Minstrels here,
       To kiss the Harp your master sway’d,
    And o’er it drop the mournful tear,
       And let it in his grave be laid.

    For now like him ’tis mute and dead,
       Its accents all are hush’d and still;
    The power is gone—the spirit fled,
       And every nerve in death is chill.

    But shall that spirit rise no more,
       And shall its powers no more revive,
    And, on this “Muse deserted shore,”
       Shall no such Bard hereafter live?

    Oh! Cambria, scorn the hateful dream,
       And raise thy drooping downcast head;
    Nor longer drop the pearly stream,
       Not longer mourn thy Minstrel dead.

    For yet some Heaven-taught child of thine,
       In ages yet unborn may rise;
    Some sapling of this Minstrel’s line,
       And lift thy glory to the skies.

A new Market House, Town Hall, &c. have lately been built here, which is
at once an improvement to the Town, and a convenience to farmers and
others of the neighbourhood; a good Inn, on a commodious plan, adjoins it
called the Waterloo Tavern.  Several mean unsightly dwellings, at the
East end of the Church-yard, have been taken down, and a new House
erected for the residence of one of the Vicars.  In short, from the
speculative spirit of the inhabitants, and the increasing demand for
Slates at Port Penrhyn, which, as well as the Quay at Hirael, is
generally crowded not only with small craft, but with Ships of
considerable burthen, Bangor seems advancing rapidly into consequence; it
is also of late years become a place of fashionable resort, particularly
in the Summer season.  The population, according to the last _Census_, in
1811, was 2393, and it may now be stated at nearly 3000.  The principal
Inns, are the Castle, near the Cathedral, Crown and Anchor, and Waterloo
Tavern in the Centre; the Penrhyn Arms at the East, and the Vaynol Arms
at the West end of the Town.

Hugh Lupus, in his barbarous inroads into Anglesey, founded a Castle at
Bangor, in order to carry on his ravages with greater security; it was
situated nearly a quarter of a mile Eastward of the Town, on the ridge of
hills which bound the S.E. side of the Vale, and nearly the same distance
from the Port.  It was on a rocky, and in many parts a precipitous hill.
Three sides of the Walls are easily to be traced: on the S.E. side, they
extended a hundred and twenty yards; on the S.W. sixty-six, ending at a
precipice; the N.E. may be traced forty yards, and ends in the same
manner.  On the fourth side, the natural strength of the place rendered a
farther defence useless; Mounds of Earth, tending to a semicircular form,
with rocks and precipices, connect the N.E. and S.W. walls.  The precise
time of its demolition is not known, but probably as soon as the Earl had
effected his design it was suffered to fall to ruin.

In this Parish, about a mile and a half to the South of the Town, was
discovered about the year 1806, at a place called Ty Coch, belonging to
Captain Taylor, a Stone, with the following inscription;

    NVMNC
    IMP CAESAR M
    AVRELANTONINVS
       PIVS TI IX AVG ARAB
                                     IX

It is probable, that after the traveller has examined the City of Bangor
and its environs, he may be tempted to cross over to the Island of
Anglesey; and if he be a pedestrian, he would find the passage over
_Garth_, (formerly called Cadnant) Ferry the shortest and pleasantest way
to Beaumaris; but if the party have a horse or carriage, the road to
Porth Aethwy, (otherwise called Bangor Ferry) where the new Iron Bridge
is now erecting, must be pursued.  And here it may be proper, before we
proceed any further, to inform the stranger that there are six ferries
across the Menai, which I shall mention here in regular order, beginning
with Beaumaris, over the Lavan Sands, to Aber; 2.  Garth, near Bangor,
which is confined solely to foot passengers; 3.  Porth Aethwy, {53}
before-mentioned, the best, safest, and most convenient; 4.  Moel y Donn,
a very safe good ferry, and sober careful boatmen; 5.  Tal y Foel,
opposite Carnarvon; 6.  Abermenai, at the extreme Westerly end of the
Straits, about three miles below Carnarvon.—The best rout for any person
who may be inclined to make a tour of the Island, would be to proceed
from Bangor Ferry to Beaumaris, along the delightful new terrace road,
made at the sole expence of that munificent Nobleman, who is an honour to
his Country, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, which may justly be pronounced one
of the most grand and picturesque rides in the kingdom, commanding a full
view of Beaumaris bay, with its winding Shores, projecting Capes and
Promontories, together with the vast and magnificent chain of
Carnarvonshire Hills and Mountains, towering in succession, in majestic
eminence and grandeur, and in variety of shapes, until their summits are
lost in the clouds.  After visiting the Castle and other Antiquities in
and about this beautiful Town, the traveller is recommended to proceed
from Beaumaris to Red Wharf, and along the Sea-coast to Amlwch, famous
for its extensive and lucrative Copper Mines, and which are well worthy
the stranger’s attention, and from thence to the town of Holyhead, where
Government has erected, at an immense expence, one of the finest Piers in
Great Britain; at the extremity is a very handsome Light-House, which,
together with the Lamps along the Pier, being lighted up with Gas,
renders the Scene, at night, brilliant and imposing.  He may then return
into Carnarvonshire either along the Post Road to Llangefni, and thence
to Moel y Donn ferry, or if he be curious enough to explore the whole of
the Island, along the Western Coast to Aberfraw and Newborough, and
re-cross either at Abermenai, Tal y Foel, or Moel y Donn.

As the Tourist may probably be desirous to know the names of the
gentlemen’s seats, which appear so conspicuous on the Anglesey shore,
from this side the water, and which seem to claim his attention, as he
proceeds along, I shall here for his satisfaction describe them as they
occur, beginning with the most Easterly, viz. Friers, the seat of Sir
Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. for the County of Carnarvon; which is
situated a mile beyond Beaumaris, near the Sea coast, not far from the
site of a Religious House of the Franciscan order,—next is Baron Hill,
the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, embosomed in woods, and commanding a
most extensive and enchanting view, having the Town, Castle, and Bay of
Beaumaris in front,—near it is Red Hill, the residence of Colonel
Sparrow,—next in order is Lady Bulkeley’s neat Cottage, on the Beaumaris
new road, and just below it Craig y Donn, the delightful Summer
habitation of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow, who is fond of
sailing, and has an elegant Cutter at anchor near his house,—next is
Cadnant, the seat of J. Price, Esq. in a small recess on the side of a
narrow dingle;—these are the principal seats to the East of the great
Irish road.  But, before we proceed any further, the stranger cannot
avoid noticing the singular situation of a small Church, on a barren
rock, forming a little Peninsula, about a quarter of a mile to the West
of Bangor-Ferry, called Llandissilio. {55}  We then proceed to another
small Church, called Llanfair (or St. Mary’s) Pwll Gwyn Gell,—and near
it, the Vicarage House; and just below that Llanfair Hall, the seat of
Colonel Peacock.  And here I must not omit noticing a very elegant
Column, situated on a high rock, behind Llanfair Church, erected by
subscription of £1 each person, (and which was soon filled, so eager were
the gentlemen of the neighbourhood to contribute), and intended to
commemorate the brave, skilful, and intrepid conduct of that gallant
Nobleman, the Marquess of Anglesey, at the Battle of Waterloo.  Not far
from hence is that rocky or obstructed part of the Straits or Channel of
the Menai, called by the Welsh Pwll Ceris, {56} and by the English the
Swelly; the fury of the tide, during ebb and flow, is almost
inconceivable, except by the navigator: here are great over-falls and
violent whirl-pools, but at high water all is still.  This is a great
obstacle to the navigation of large vessels, which must consult the
critical season, and provide a good Pilot; and as the Merchants of
Carnarvon, and others, were very apprehensive that the erection of a
Bridge at Bangor Ferry, would materially injure the Trade, Government has
proposed to defray the expence of blasting the Rocks, and to render every
other practicable facility to the improvement of the navigation in this
part of the Channel.

After this short digression, we now proceed to Plas Newydd, the
magnificent Seat of the Marquess of Anglesey, situated on a beautiful
curve of the Menai, and protected on three sides by venerable Oak Trees,
which reminds us of the Groves, in which the Druids are represented by
Tacitus to have concealed themselves from the Roman Army, and also
recalls to our remembrance the ancient name of Anglesey, _Ynys Dywyll_,
the Dark Island, on account of the deep shade of its groves:

    — These woods
    Were tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence,
    Rob’d in their flowing vests of innocent white,
    Issu’d with Harps, that glitter to the moon,
    Hymning immortal strains.

                                                       MASON’S CARACTACUS.

It lies within 80 or 100 yards of the Menai, with a fine lawn in front,
sloping to the edge of the water; it commands a fine view both towards
Carnarvon and Bangor, which is rendered doubly interesting when the tide
is in, and the river covered with Ships of various sizes, together with
his Lordship’s Cutter, and those of T. A. Smith, Esq. of Vaynol, and Owen
Williams, Esq. of Craig y Don, sailing up and down, and contending with
each other, thus rendering the scene more animating.  On the contrary, in
boisterous weather, here you behold from your fire side, (if you please,)
the mariner exerting his strength to guide his ship, and contending with
the storm; sweet retreat! delightful abode!

    Suave mari magno, turbantibus æquora ventis,
    E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.

    “Pleasing from danger free, to hear on shore,
    The tempests whistle and the billows roar.”

Behind the House are to be seen two vast _Cromlechs_, the upper stone of
one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick,
supported by five tell ones; the other is but barely separated from the
first, is almost a square of five feet and a half, and supported by four
stones.  The number of supporters to _Cromlechs_ are supposed to be
merely accidental, and to depend on the size and form of the incumbent
stone.  Dr. Borlase, in his History of _Cornwall_, has shewn the
improbability of these stones ever being designed or used as Altars; the
figure proves the impossibility of making fires, or performing sacrifices
on their sloping summits, and almost all which I have seen (observes Mr.
Pennant) have an inclination.  It is reasonable to suppose them to have
been sepulchral monuments, (probably of their Arch Druids) and that the
body might be lodged in the space beneath, and near the monument divine
honours might be paid, or sacrifices performed to the manes of the
dead.—This species of monument is to be found in most parts of Europe, in
Scandinavia, in Holland and in France; in the last, the _Pierre Levee_,
near Poitiers, is a stupendous specimen; they extend even farther South,
for Mr. Armstrong gives a drawing of one of this nature in Minorca.  They
vary in form, in many the space between the supporters is closed up with
stones of greater or lesser size, and thus formed a sufficient security
to the remains of the deceased therein deposited.  Probably all or most
of those which we see in our Island, might originally have been thus
closed up, and the stones since taken away, and applied to other uses;
others are again quite bedded in the _Carnedd_, as is the case with that
at Llanfaelog, in this Island.  Not far from the _Cromlech_ is a large
_Carnedd_, part of which has been removed; within was discovered a Cell,
about seven feet long and three wide, covered at the top with two flat
stones, and lined on the sides with others.  On the top of the stones
were two semicircular holes, of size sufficient to take in the human
neck; it is conjectured that above might have been another, so that both
together might perform the office of a stocks.—It is indeed conjecture,
yet not an improbable one, that in this place were confined, the wretches
destined for sacrifice, as it is well known that they performed those
execrable rites, and often upon captives who had suffered long
imprisonment, perhaps in Cells similar to this, and the common Welsh
proverb “_Bwrw caeth i Gythraul_,” to offer a captive to the Devil, seems
to confirm this opinion.  After the tourist has examined the interior of
Plasnewydd, which he may easily do if he be so disposed, he is
recommended to pay a visit to Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful Cottage, the
_Lodge_, about a quarter of a mile to the East of this Princely mansion,
where his curiosity will no doubt be amply gratified, as that gentleman
has displayed peculiar taste and judgment in the embellishment and
decoration of that singularly elegant and much admired residence.  Half a
mile to the West, and within the Park, are the Farm and Parish Church,
_Llan Edwen_, and very near these, in the same direction, is Plas Coch, a
venerable old Mansion, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and lately
repaired and improved by the present Proprietor, Sir W. Bulkeley Hughes,
Knight.  Next is Porthamel, {60} late the seat of Mrs. Goodman, now of W.
Massey, Esq.; beyond which are Llanidan Church and Hall, the latter the
admired residence of the Hon. Mr. Ireby, eldest son of Lord Boston, and
nearly opposite Carnarvon, Tref-Arthen, Mr. Bogue’s, and Maes y Porth, W.
P. Lloyd, Esq.

We shall now return to Bangor, and conduct the stranger by Bangor Ferry,
(which, although about a mile further is by far the most interesting
road) to Carnarvon, and as he proceeds he will find the views constantly
changing, and he will frequently be at a loss which most to admire,—the
Sea, the Mountains, or the landscape, up and down the Menai.  Gorphwysfa,
{61a} a modern handsome Villa, between the Inn and the intended new
Bridge, built by Lord Lucan, and now the property and residence of O. A.
Poole, Esq. is the first place likely to attract his attention; this
charming spot is much admired—the grounds are laid out with great taste
and judgment.  But before we proceed, the reader is to be informed that
£24,000. have been awarded by a jury, and allowed by Government, as an
indemnification to the Proprietor for the loss of the profits of the
Ferry, in consequence of the erection of the Bridge.  On his right, after
he has passed the ferry, and as he ascends the Hill, is Treborth, the
seat of G. Barlow, Esq. and about a mile further, on the same side of the
road, surrounded by fine woods, and thriving plantations, is Vaynol,
{61b} the occasional residence, at particular times of the year, of T. A.
Smith, Esq. during a month or two in summer, to enjoy the pleasure of
sailing in his Cutter, and a few weeks in winter, for the amusement of
sporting.  His usual abode is at Tedworth, near Andover Hants.  This
gentleman is Proprietor of several excellent Slate Quarries, some of
which are considered the most productive of any in this part of the
Principality, next to those of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; but the proper
time for visiting these will be during an excursion from Carnarvon to
Llanberris.  Vaenol was at one period the residence of a branch of the
Penrhyn Family, who were descended from Ednyfed Fychan.  They obtained a
Baronetage June 15, 1622.  Sir William Williams, the last of the line,
disposed of his property to Sir Boucher Wrey, with the remainder to King
William in fee, who made a grant of it to an ancestor of the present
proprietor.  A curious Seal was discovered near this place, about two or
three years ago, supposed to be that of some Convent or Monastery, with
the image of the Virgin and child, and bearing the following inscription:
S. BEATÆ MARIÆ DE SI. . . . NE BEC . . .

The next place which deserves to be noticed, in our progress towards
Carnarvon, is Bryn Tirion; the habitation of Thomas Jones, Esq.; this
house, which is nearly opposite Plas Newydd, stands on a beautiful
eminence, and commands an extensive view of the Straits, as far as
Abermenai.—In this neighbourhood, as well as on the opposite shore, are
considerable Lime-stone rocks; and indications of Iron Ore have also been
observed here, and, we understand, in one instance, a late trial has been
attended with success.  It is the general opinion, when these two are
found in considerable quantities, that Coal is not far distant, and some
attempts have been made, at different times, to discover the vein, but
hitherto without effecting that object.  Near this place is Aber y pwll,
a Harbour belonging to Mr. Smith, where his Slate are shipped off, and to
which a good new road has, within these few years, been made from his
Quarry.  Half a mile farther is Moel y Don, a safe and commodious horse
Ferry, where no accident has happened in the memory of any person now
living.  In the life of Gryffydd, ap Cynan, (one of our Welsh Princes) it
is said that a Castle was built here, by Aeloedd, King of Dublin, his
grandfather by the mother’s side, and there are still some remains of a
fortification, on a small eminence, close upon the Menai, about three
hundred yards below the Ferry.  This place was also rendered memorable on
account of a Bridge of Boats, erected here by King Edward the First, A.D.
1282, {63} in repassing which, a detachment of his Army, together with a
number of _Gascon_ and Spanish troops, commanded by LUKE DE TANY, were
intercepted by the Welsh, who rush’d on them with hideous shouts, slew
numbers, and forced the remainder into the sea.  On this occasion
perished the General himself, together with Roger Clifford the younger,
thirteen Knights, seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred soldiers.
William Latimer alone escaped by the goodness of his horse, which swam
with him to the Bridge.  Even if we suppose that a panic had seized the
English forces at this time, yet a considerable degree of praise is still
due to the intrepidity of my countrymen, as, when compared with the
troops of other countries, they fought nearly unarmed; in order to be
convinced of which, a person need only read a description of their
weapons and accoutrements, when they accompanied our valiant Prince
Richard Cœur de Lion into France, as given by William Brito, in Camden’s
Remains.

When we have proceeded half a mile, we enter the beautiful woods of
Llanfair, the delightful seat of John Griffith, Esq. a gentleman, who
according the example of his ancestors, and the custom of “those good old
times,” resides constantly in the country, and gives employment to a
number of poor persons, who would otherwise, in all probability, be
chargeable to some Parish; he does not dismiss from his service the
super-anuated domestic—relieves the _wants_ of the indigent, and promotes
the comfort of the Cottager, by numerous acts of charity, and is an
indulgent and generous Landlord.  The neatness of the fences, the
thriving state of the plantations, the rich appearance of the land, and
the judicious management of the Home-stall, together with the improved
method of farming, must attract the attention of every passenger.  Nearer
Carnarvon, on the banks of the Menai, is the small but neat Parish Church
of Llanfair Isgaer, partly re-built at the above gentleman’s expence, and
from which his mansion takes its name.  Not far from hence is Crûg, a
house once the property of Sir W. Williams Wynne, but which was purchased
by J. Griffith, Esq. of Llanfair; it deserves notice as being the place
where Meredith ap Jevan ap Robert of Cesail Gyfarch, ancestor of Sir John
Wynne, of _Gwydir_, was nursed, and from whence he removed to the Castle
of Dolydd Helen.—This Meredith (as Sir John Wynne informs us, in the
History of the Gwydir Family) married a daughter-in-law of one _Spicer_,
of Carnarvon, who had an office in the Exchequer in that Town, and was a
person of £50. per annum, and his son, John Spicer, was a Justice of the
Peace, in the first Commissions after the new Ordinance of Wales, as we
learn from the same authority.  Within a mile of Carnarvon, and near the
road, is a handsome modern-built house, _Ty Coch_, the residence of the
Rev. H. Jones.—Near this place once stood an old Mansion, called Plas
Bretwn, belonging to the Breretons, a family who probably came to this
country with Edward the First, or soon after; and nearly in this
direction, a new Ferry was established within these few years, and we
lament to state that on the 5th of August, 1820, owing to the very
culpable negligence of the Ferrymen, in over-loading the boat, and
carrying too much sail, (it being a very windy day) it was upset, and out
of 26 persons, one man only was saved.—A similar accident happened about
37 years ago at Tal y Foel, (the Ferry opposite Carnarvon) with this
difference, that in the former instance the boat sunk in the day time,
and the passengers instantly went down, to rise no more, and in the
latter, it struck on a Sand Bank, in the middle of the Channel, during
the ebb of the tide, where these unfortunate people remained for many
hours, calling for that assistance, which, owing to the darkness of the
night; and the violence of the storm, it was impossible to afford them.
{66}  Proceeding along the road, the traveller cannot but admire the
singularly beautiful entrance to



CARNARVON,


which is rendered more striking by the summits of the Castle Towers,
Coedhelen Summer-house, as well as the extensive Bay and foaming Bar,
being distinctly seen in the rear of the Town.—Caernarvon is situated at
the month of the Seiont, on a small Peninsula, formed by that river and
the brook Cadnant, on the verge of the Straits of the Menai, which
separate this County from the Island of Anglesey; this Town is justly the
boast of North Wales, for beauty of situation—goodness of
buildings—regularity of plan, and above all for the grandeur and
magnificence of its Castle.  Here an admirer of nature may forget his
cares, in contemplating the greatness of her works, or rather the
stupendous operations of His hand, whose Almighty _fiat_, and creative
energy, formed this terrestrial Globe, and called into existence the
“_everlasting mountains_.”  This place, from its proximity to these
wonderful and impregnable barriers, and its central and salubrious
situation, will be found to be a most eligible station, from which the
stranger may make various and pleasant excursions, some of which will be
pointed out at the end of this article.  The town is a square, inclosed
with embattled stone walls on three sides; the Castle defending it on the
South.  In the West wall are two round Towers, and two others protecting
the Gate at that point, called by the Welsh _Porth-yr-aur_, where there
it a battery of 7 guns; three on the North, one on the N.E.; two
supporting the Eastern entrance, or _Porth-mawr_, and two to the S.E.
making in the whole twelve Towers.

The town is well built, the streets being at right angles, with the
principal one, (the High Street).  Near the Cross formerly stood the old
Town Hall, which continued many years in ruins, but it has lately been
re-built in a more specious and handsome manner, and is converted into a
commodious Market House, containing Butchers’ Shambles, Fish Stand, and
Corn Market; over these is a large room, which is made use of for the
boys of the National School, until the building now erecting shall be
completed; another containing at present a _Depot_ of Arms, and a smaller
one, where the gentlemen of the Savings Bank Committee, together with
their Clerk and Treasurer, sit from twelve till two o’clock every
Saturday, to receive the weekly deposits; this is a most excellent
institution, and ought to be universally known and encouraged.

The Castle is founded on a rock, and is almost entire; the enter walls
are of dark grey hewn stone, (a species of lime stone) with an edging of
red ones at the corners and about the windows, as also in several
_fascias_, which gives it a handsome appearance.  Edward I. built this
Castle in a singular and elegant style, (and probably the Town likewise,
on the site, and out of the ruins of one more ancient, and bearing the
same name {69}) with the revenue of the See of York, then vacant; a deep
narrow foss or ditch, which has been filled up some years, once defended
it on the North side, or in front, over which there was a drawbridge,
leading to the King’s or principal Gate, which had four Portcullises, and
was a grand and elegant entrance; above it stood the figure of the Royal
Founder, in the act either of drawing or sheathing his sword, probably
the latter, in allusion to the Welsh war being ended,—under his feet is a
defaced shield: this Gate leads into an oblong Court, originally divided
into two parts, the lower, or that end containing the Regal apartments,
seem to have been again protected by another Wall and Gateway, now
demolished.  At the West end of this area is a Polygon Tower, with three
hexagon Turrets issuing from its top, on whose battlements were eagles,
one of which only now remains, (which is shamefully mutilated and
disfigured) whence it was called the Eagle Tower;—we have the authority
of Mr. Pennant for saying that the Eagle upon the top of this Tower is
with good reason supposed to be Roman, and that Edward found it at old
Segontium.—In a small room, within this Tower, eleven feet by seven,
Edward the Second is supposed to have been born, April 25th, 1284; a
passage separates it from a similar apartment, called the _nursery_.—The
correctness of this statement is however doubted by many, for if we may
be allowed to judge, from the small dimensions, and present gloomy and
uninviting appearance of this apartment, it does not seem probable, that
the Queen of England would select it for the place of her _accouchement_,
when other parts of the Castle afforded much superior accommodations; on
the other hand it may be objected, that she might have fixed upon it as
the place of greatest security and seclusion,—this however is certain,
that tradition, which is often correct, is in favor of the small room.

From the top of the Eagle Tower, which most strangers ascend, the
traveller will be able to command a grand, varied and extensive view,
comprehending a great part of the Island of Anglesey, the Straits of the
Menai, Carnarvon Bay, St. George’s Channel, with the whole range of
Carnarvonshire Hills, from the Peaks of the Rivals, on the S.W. to the
huge Pen-maen-mawr, on the N.E. being about 36 miles in extent.  On the
South side, next the River Seiont, are three Hexagon and three Octagon
Towers, and others on the North.  On the East is a magnificent entrance,
called the Queen’s Gate, and through which she is supposed to have
entered, with a lofty round Arch and small Postern; leading to which
also, there was, no doubt, originally a draw-bridge, over the Moat, which
formed the communication between the Seiont and the brook Cadnant, or
present mill stream.  These Towers communicate all round, by noble
galleries, and several of them are surrounded by smaller Towers, peculiar
to this and Conway Castle, which seem to have been the Architect’s two
_Chef d’œuvre_.  In the North East Tower is a deep well, half filled up,
and this, or some other is said to have contained a dungeon, where it is
pretended a man being once let down to bring up a dog, found a hammer,
and that he saw a wooden door which he was afraid to open; the common
people have a tradition, that there was a subterraneous passage either
from this place or some other part of the Castle, to Coed Helen wood, on
the other side of the river.  Some statements assert that this immense
Fortress was completed in one year; others, with more probability, assure
us that it was twelve years in building.  Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton,
was appointed master mason, and perhaps was the Architect, and under him
must have been numbers of other skilful workmen.  The Welsh peasants were
employed, no doubt, in waiting upon them, and supplying them with
materials, great part of which was brought from the ruins of Segontium,
and tradition says that much of the limestone, with which it is built,
was conveyed from Twr Kelyn, near Plas Newydd, in Anglesey, and of the
grit stone from Vaenol.—The Menai greatly facilitated the carriage from
both places.  The exterior walls are in general about three yards in
thickness; and from its situation and strength, it seems to have been
well adapted to overawe the newly acquired subjects of its founder.

This noble and venerable pile, from whatever point it is contemplated, or
at whatever distance it is viewed, forms a most interesting object,
particularly when it is considered that it was once the residence of
Royalty, and gave birth to the first Prince of Wales, of the English
line,—what wonder and astonishment must it not have excited in the minds
of the poor peasants, dwelling at the foot of Snowdon, and unused to see
any other habitations than their own humble dwellings, when beholding
this vast and magnificent Castle, advancing by slow degrees, to its
present height and magnitude.  When it is considered that it has
withstood the shocks of more than five hundred winters, it seems
wonderful that it should still appear so perfect and entire; for what is
there that does not at last fade and decay, and yield by degrees to the
war of elements, and the siege of time:

    — The Tower, that long hath stood
    The crash of Thunder, and the warring Winds,
    Shook by the slow but sure destroyer—Time
    Now hangs in doubtful ruins o’er its base;
    And flinty pyramids, and walls of brass
    Descend; the Babylonian Spires are sunk;
    Achaia, Rome, and Egypt moulder down.
    This huge rotundity, we tread grows old;
    And all those Worlds that roll about the Sun,
    The Sun himself shall die and ancient night,
    Again involve the desolate Abyss.

After this Monarch had subdued the Welsh, he began to secure his
conquests, by erecting several strong holds, in different parts of Wales,
and it appearing that Carnarvonshire, on account of its Mountains and
Morasses, was a County very likely to encourage insurrections, he
determined to guard as much as possible against such an event, by
erecting this and Conway Castle, two of the completest and strongest
Fortresses in the Principality, and perhaps not inferior to any in the
Kingdom.

The reason generally assigned for the King’s conduct, in bringing his
beloved Queen, Eleanor, to such a distance, and at such an inclement
season of the year, (for it was in the winter) to lie in, is the
following: viz. that perceiving the Welsh remembered but too keenly the
oppressions of the English Officers, who in former reigns had been placed
over them, they peremptorily informed the King, that they were determined
not to yield obedience to any Prince, except one of their own nation; he
found it necessary to make use of an innocent artifice, and a pardonable
piece of policy: he therefore concealed his intentions for a time, and
secretly dispatched trusty messengers to the English Court, in order to
conduct the Queen into Wales; and it is related, that soon after the
birth of the young Prince, he summoned together the Welsh Nobles, and
persons of the greatest rank and influence in the Principality, and asked
them whether they would submit to be governed by a young man born in
Wales, and one who could not speak of word of English, and that when they
answered him in the affirmative, he presented to them his own son, saying
to them at the same time (as well as he could pronounce the words) _Eich
Dyn_, {74} _i.e._ this is your man—corrupted afterwards into ICH DIEN.
It ought however to have been previously mentioned, that the King was at
Rhuddlan Castle, during the Queen’s confinement, and we are informed by
Leland, that when Griffith Lloyd, of Tregarnedd in Anglesey, brought him
the joyful intelligence of the birth of a son, he was immediately
Knighted, and rewarded with one of the Manors of the Welsh Princes,
called Llys yn Dinorweg, in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, now the
property of T. A. Smith, of Vaenol, Esq.—The first Governor of this
Castle, appointed by Edward, was John de Havering, with a salary of 200
Marks; with which he was obliged to maintain constantly, besides his own
family, fourscore men, of which fifteen were to be cross-bowmen, one
Chaplain, one Surgeon, and one Smith; the rest were to do the duty of
keepers of the Gates, Centinels, and other necessary Officers.  In 1289,
Adam de Wetenhall was appointed to the same important office.  The
establishment for Town and Castle was as follows: The Constable of the
Castle had sometimes £60. at others only £40.  The Captain of the Town
had £12. 3s. 4d. for his annual fee; but this office was sometimes
annexed to the former, and then Sixty was the Salary for both.  The
Constable and the Captain had Twenty-four Soldiers allowed them for the
defence of the place, at the wages of fourpence per day each.  This was
considered as the amount of the establishment during peace.  The Porter
of the Gates of the Town had for his annual fee, £3. 10s.  The following
are the only instances known, of this place having suffered by the
calamities of war, viz. in the great insurrection of the Welsh, under
Madoc, in 1294, when they surprised the Town, during the time of a Fair,
and put many English to the sword, got possession of this as well as
Conway Castle, and made themselves masters of all Anglesey.  During the
rebellion of Owen Glyndwr, about the year 1404, Ieuan (Evan) ap Meredith,
of Eifionydd, and Meredith ap Hwlkyn Llwyd, of Glynn Llifon, had the
charge of the Town of Carnarvon, (as Sir John Wynne informs us), and an
English Captain defended the Castle; when the said Owen Glyndwr and his
party, in revenge at not being able to gain possession, burned Ievan ap
Meredith’s two houses, Cefn y Fann, and Kesail gyfarch.  Captain Swanly,
a Parliamentarian Officer, took the Town, in 1644, made 400 prisoners,
and got a great quantity of arms, ammunition, and pillage.  The Royalists
afterwards repossessed themselves of the place,—Lord Byron was appointed
Governor,—was besieged by General Mytton, in 1646, and yielded the place
on the most honorable terms.  In 1648, the General himself, and Colonel
Mason, were besieged in it, by Sir J. Owen, who, hearing that Colonel
Carter and Colonel Twisselton were on the march to relieve the place,
drew a part of his forces from the siege, in order to attack them on the
way; the parties met at Dalar Hir, near Llandegai, Sir John was defeated,
and made prisoner; after which, all North Wales submitted to the
Parliament.

After this concise History of the Castle, we shall now endeavour to give
a short description of the Town, within the walls, and then proceed to
the suburbs; the former consists principally of seven streets, viz. The
High Street, 2. King Street, or Castle Street, 3. Market Street, 4. Red
Lion, or Plas-mawr Street, 5. Black Boy Street, 6. Newgate Street, and 7.
Church Street; to which may be added, 8. _Pen y Deits_, or the head, or
end of the Ditch or Moat; 9. Hole in the Wall Street, and, 10. Pepper
Alley.

The High Street, which is the handsomest, consists principally of Shops
and Lodging-houses, and has in its centre, (or rather at the entrance
into Market Street) the old Town Hall, and, present Market House, already
noticed; and at the upper or East end, over the Gateway called Porth
mawr, is the present Guild-Hall, formerly an Exchequer Office, it was
re-built in the year 1767, at the joint expence of Sir William Wynn, and
Sir John Wynn, Baronet, as appears by an inscription in front of it; in
the interior are handsome Portraits of each, as also of the late Earl of
Uxbridge, father of the present Marquis of Anglesey.  Here the Member for
the Borough is elected; their present Representative is the Hon. Captain
Paget.  This place is also used as an Assembly Room, where the Michaelmas
and other Balls, such as those given by the High Sheriff, during the
Assizes, and by Members at elections, are held; and in order to light it
up in a handsome manner, the late Lord Uxbridge presented the Corporation
with a beautiful glass lustre.

The Corporation consists of a Mayor, who is as such Constable of the
Castle; (the appointment is by the King, and continues during
pleasure;—the Office is at present held by the Marquis of Anglesey),
Deputy-Mayor, appointed by the Mayor; Two Bailiffs and a Recorder,
elected annually by the Burgesses; Two Town-Stewards, Two Serjeants at
Mace, One Beadle, Four Sidesmen, and Four Constables, elected annually by
the Mayor and Bailiffs.  These go in procession to St. Mary’s Chanel,
29th September, being Michaelmas-day, and after service return to the
Guild-Hall, to elect new Officers for the ensuing year, and admit new
Burgesses.  There are Borough Courts held here every fortnight, to
transact business, and to hear and redress grievances; at the second
Court after Michaelmas-day, twelve of the Town Burgesses are sworn as a
Jury, whose business it is to perambulate the liberties of the Town, to
present nuisances and encroachments, as well as to see what repairs are
wanted, and to make a Report of the same.  At one of these, the present
entrance to the Castle was presented for consideration, whether it would
not be adviseable to place it in repair, but from the opinion of an
eminent Barrister; who has been consulted on the occasion, it appears
that the Corporation have no authority so to do, the property being
vested in the King, as are also the Town Walls.

High Street is terminated on the West by Porth yr aur, on the outside of
which is a very pleasant terrace walk, on the shore of the Menai, of
which it commends a full view; this and the Bangor road are considered
the two fashionable promenades, of the inhabitants.  Edmund Griffith, of
Penrhyn, lived at Porth-yr-aur.  Sir Rowland Brittayne, Constable of
Carnarvon Castle, married Agnes, sister to the above Edmund Griffith;
Rowland Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref Arthen, was son of Sir William
Griffith.—This last attended Henry VIII. to France, as Lewis Môn, the
Welsh Bard, informs us in one of his Poems.  So late as Fifty or Sixty
years ago, and for a long time prior to that period, several of the
principal families of this and the neighbouring County, had a Town House
at Carnarvon, where they generally used to spend the winter, and others
resided here constantly; most of these were persons possessed of good
incomes, and many of them kept their own carriages, had always a goad
table, and lived in the good old hospitable style of their ancestors, so
that when a gentleman happened to come into the town, if he had any
acquaintance with some of these families, he generally went to his
friend’s house, and not to an Inn.  Carnarvon was not at that time become
such a commercial place as it is at present.  These houses, and indeed
every gentleman’s residence, was then, and is still distinguished by the
name of _Plas_.  The above short introduction was thought necessary in
order to notice some of these old Mansions, which have either been taken
down, deserted, or converted to other uses: Plas Issa, at one time the
property of the Coed Helen Family, and Porth yr aur, belonging to the
late Evan Lloyd, of Maes y Porth, Esq. were two old houses of this
description, at the lower end of this street, the one taken down, and the
other in ruins; Plas Bowman, between Church Street and Market Street, was
another, and in King’s Head Street, there is one still left, _Plas
Llanwnda_, where the proprietor, R. Garnons, Esq. resided for several
months in the winter; and with true gentlemanly politeness supports the
ancient credit of the House, for munificence and hospitality, and kind
attention to the wants of the poor.  Quirt is another house in this
street, at one time belonging to the Williams’s of Quirt, in Anglesey,
and of Glan yr afon, in this County, which was made use of several years
as an Inn.  In this Street also, at the back part of a public house,
called Glan yr afon, is an old building; supposed to have been at one
time either a Chapel belonging to the garrison, or to some private
family.  Plas Spicer, in Church Street, is an old house which claims our
attention next, once belonging to a family of that name, but which has
long since been extinct.  Plas Mawr, belonging to William Griffith, Esq.
a branch of the Vaenol and Penrhyn families, then resident at Trefarthen,
in Anglesey, and Plas Pilston, the present Red Lion, are the two last we
shall mention.  There is a handsome Monument to the memory of the former
at Llanbeblig, which we shall notice when we come to describe that
Church, over the door are the following initials, W.G. M.G.—in another
part, J. G. M. G. date, 1590.  With respect to the latter, it is
remarkable only on account of its antiquity, and the fate of its original
Proprietor, Sir Roger de Puleston, a distinguished favourite of Edward I.
He had been appointed Sheriff, and Keeper of the County of Anglesey, in
1284: what office he held here is uncertain; but being directed in 1294,
to levy the subsidy for the French war, a Tax the Welsh had never been
accustomed to, they took up Arms, and hanged De Pulesdon, and several of
his people.  This was a signal for a general Insurrection,—Madoc, a
Relation of the late Prince Llywelyn, headed the people of this County.
Edward marched against them in person, and with great difficulty reduced
the country to submit again to his yoke.

In Newgate Street, is the County Gaol, built about 18 or 20 years ago, by
Mr. Penson of Wrexham; it was then considered by much too large, but we
lament to say that at present it is frequently crowded; adjoining, but
fronting Ditch Street, is the County Hall, at the West end of which is
the Grand Jury Room, both spacious and commodious.  In the former, over
the Bench, is the likeness of J. Garnons, Esq. at one time Prothonotary
on this Circuit; in the latter, that of Hugh Leycester, Esq. our highly
respected Chief Justice: a gentleman, who by his upright conduct,
inflexible integrity, just and impartial decisions, and deep legal
knowledge, has deservedly acquired a very high reputation in his
profession; and who by his politeness of manners, and affability of
demeanour, has justly endeared himself to the Inhabitants of this part of
the Principality, and particularly to the Gentlemen of this County, who
wishing to retain among them the resemblance of the person whom they so
highly esteem and respect, and with whom they have been in the habit of
friendly intercourse for many years, have requested him to sit for his
picture, the expence of which was defrayed by voluntary Contributions;
from the eagerness to come forward on the occasion, the Subscription was
completed in a very short time, besides leaving a handsome surplus in the
hands of the Committee, who gave £20 of it to the Widows and Orphans of
those who perished in the Brig Elizabeth, which was upset and lost early
last year, near Carnarvon Bar; the remainder is placed in the Bank, to be
appropriated to the first charitable purpose that offers.  Adjoining the
Grand Jury Room are the Offices of the Prothonotary and Clerk of the
Peace, and near to these, outside of the walls, at the extremity of the
Quay or Pier, is the Custom-House, a substantial and convenient modern
Building.

St. Mary’s Chapel, is situated on the North West, of the Town, adjoining
one of the Towers of the Wall: it is represented by most authors, as
having originally been built for the use of the Garrison, and to have
afterwards been claimed by the Corporation.  Some years ago, either the
Curate, or the Clerk by his direction, used to go about the town at
Easter, to collect Donations and Subscriptions, for performing English
Service, in this Chapel.  It is now generally called the Town Church, and
is served by the Vicar of Llanbeblig.  It was rebuilt in the year 1812,
(with the exception of the old arches) partly by Subscription, assisted
by the Corporation, who annually let a number of Pews as their property.
The Marquis of Anglesey presented them with an excellent Organ, which is
considered a very fine toned Instrument.

The Suburbs, or Town without the Walls, consists of the following
Streets: viz. Porth-mawr Street; the Bank or Dock Quay, where there are
several good brick houses; Y Pendist, or Turf Square; Crown Street;
Bangor Street; Old Boot Street: North Pen yr allt, or Toot-Hill Street;
South Pen yr allt, formerly called, Stryd y Priciau Saethu; Pont Bridd,
or Bridge Street; Stryt y Llyn, or Pool Street; Treffynon, or Holywell;
Tre’r Gof, or Smithfield; Skinners Lane; Y Maes Glas, or Green; and the
Green Gate Street.

Carnarvon is greatly improved, and considerably enlarged within these
last thirty years;—at the entrance from Bangor, the Uxbridge Arms Hotel,
a large, handsome, and commodious Inn, was built by the late Lord
Uxbridge, which is kept by Mr. George Bettiss, and where the Traveller
will meet with every attention and civility, and will find the
accommodations excellent, and the charges reasonable.—Within the same
period was erected that handsome row of houses called the Green,
terminated on the East side by the Goat Inn, built by Thomas Jones, Esq.,
of Bryntirion, who is the proprietor thereof; here also the Stranger will
meet with every attention, and where the accommodations are good, and the
charges moderate.  In front of these houses there was a high bank, some
years ago, which, besides intercepting the view, was very inconvenient to
ascend and descend, particularly at the time of fairs, which are held
here; this was removed about four years ago, partly by Subscription, but
chiefly at the expence of the Parish and Corporation, who employed the
Poor during those dear Times, in removing the earth, and wheeling it down
to the Quay, which also was erected about eighteen years ago, and has
lately been extended, and rendered more spacious and convenient, so that
it now affords every facility and accommodation to Vessels loading and
unloading.  The Slate Quarries, (as has before been observed) are the
chief sources of the Wealth and Commerce of this County; and in these,
thousands of the Inhabitants, are constantly employed; and scores, if not
hundreds of Waggons and Carts are engaged in bringing down the
productions of the Quarries to this Town, where they are shipped to
various parts of the World.  The average annual Amount of Exports from
Port of Carnarvon, is at present, about £50,000, but there is every
reason to suppose, that, were Rail-roads formed from the several Slate
Quarries in the neighbourhood, the Export Trade would be very much
increased; as then a supply of Sates might always be secured on the
Quays; whereas now, from the uncertainty of such supply, and the
consequent delay, proprietors and masters of Vessels are unwilling to
expose themselves to the risque of incurring a heavy expence, in waiting
their turn to load; this operates more particularly on large Vessels,
their expences being heavy, in proportion to their size; and it is
certain, that many Americans and other foreigners, are deterred by these
circumstances from coming to this Port for Slate.

The long desired Light on Bardsey Island, the establishment of which is
now decided on, and which it is intended by the Corporation of Trinity
House, shall be exhibited in the ensuing Autumn, is likely to prove of
incalculable benefit; not only to the Coasting Trade of this and the
neighbouring Ports, but to Trade in general.

Steam Packets might be established between Carnarvon and Dublin.  At
times when the tide might not answer for landing at the Town, on account
of the difficulty of passing the Bar, they would always find a safe and
commodious landing place at Llanddwyn Point, about seven miles distant
from Carnarvon; with the capability of a good Carriage Road to the Town
being made, at a small expence.  The late improvements at Llanddwyn, have
rendered it particularly eligible for the above purpose, the Trustees of
Carnarvon Harbour having erected a Breakwater, and Beacon, for the safety
and comfort of Navigators.  The distance from Carnarvon to Capel Curig,
through the beautiful and romantic Pass of Llanberis, is eighteen miles;
from Holyhead, by Bangor Ferry forty-two miles: The traveller would
therefore save twenty-four miles, by adopting the former line.

This Town is capable of much improvement, as a place of resort for
strangers, particularly in the Summer season; at which period, it is even
now visited by many, but from the want of sufficient comfortable
accommodation, and other conveniences to induce them to remain, a weekly,
nay almost a daily change is observable, in a continued succession of
visitors.  Were comfortable Lodging Houses erected, with Baths attached,
(which might be done with much ease) and the shore cleared, at certain
convenient points, with public Machines, and Attendants, there is little
doubt of this delightfully situated Town, becoming in a short time a
favourite Watering Place, and consequently, improving rapidly.

Edward I. bestowed on Carnarvon its first Royal Charter, and made it a
free Borough: among other privileges, none of the Burgesses could be
convicted of any crime committed between the Rivers Conway and Dyfi,
unless by a Jury of their own Townsmen.  The representative of the place
is elected by its Burgesses, and those of Conway, Pwllheli, and
Crickaeth; the right of voting is in every one, resident, or
non-resident, admitted to their Freedom.  Bondsmen in former times,
living in the Town a year and a day, and paying scot and lot, gained
their liberty, and in those days Jews were not permitted to reside here.
The first member was John Puleston; and the second time it sent
representatives, (which was the 1st Edward VI) it chose Robert Puleston,
and the County elected John, as if both Town and County determined to
make reparation to the family, for the cruelty practised on their
ancestor.  It gives the title of Marquis to James Brydges, Lord Chandos;
and that of Earl, to Henry Herbert, Baron Porchester, who was created a
Baron Oct. 17, 1780, and advanced to the Earldom June 29, 1793.  Leland,
who travelled through this County, in the time of Henry VIII. makes the
following observation, with regard to the situation of Carnarvon, in his
Itinerary, “Cadnant brook, rising three miles off, cometh through the
Town Bridge of Caernarvon, and goeth by itself into the Menai area, so
that Caernarvon standeth betwixt two Rivers, both coming into the said
straits of the Menai.”

In this Parish there are 700 Houses assessed for Poor’s Rate, 517 of
which are in the Town; adding to these the number of families excused
from poverty, and those who receive parochial Relief, it may reasonably
be inferred, that the Population of Carnarvon is about 6000, exclusive of
Mariners.  There needs no other observation on the salubrity of the air,
than the following extract from the Report of the Select Vestry of
Carnarvon, in 1819:—“Among those who receive Parochial Relief, are 19,
aged from 80 to 90 years; 28, from 70 to 80; 42, from 60 to 70; and 39,
from 50 to 60.”

In the Town are the following Dissenting Chapels, a Presbyterian Chapel
in Bangor Street,—the Calvinist’s at Pen yr allt,—the Wesleyans’ in
Smithfield, or Tre’r gof, and the Baptists’ at Treffynon.  There are five
Fairs held annually at Carnarvon, viz. March 12th, May 16th, August 12th,
September 20, and December 5.

The following beautiful Stanzas, appeared in the North Wales Gazette,
November 27, 1812, signed JUNIUS, which may not be thought out of place
here; they were written by Mr. B. Brocas, at that time residing in this
Town:

    Does thy Harp, O Cambria, Slumber?
       Are thy sainted Bards no more?
    Once it breath’d a sweeter number
       Than e’er sigh’d round Scylla’s shore.

    Where are now those magic wonders,
       Which its touch could once inspire?
    Where thy Minstrels’ martial thunders,
       Glanc’d from hands and lips of fire.

    Are thy glories sunk for ever,
       Are they set to rise no more?
    Must we henceforth hail them never,
       On this muse-deserted shore?

    Yes! prophetic Science hear’s me,
       Thus bewail her ancient seat,
    Lifts her spoil crown’d head, and cheers me,
       Echoing thus the cry of fate:—

    “Thy bless’d shade, O Taliesin!
       Waft on soft Elysian gales,
    To impart thy heav’n-taught lesson,
       To some favour’d child of Wales.

    “Let Thy Spirit hover o’er him,
       Strike him with thy hallow’d fire:
    Prostrate nations shall adore him,
       Deck’d with Thy immortal lyre.

    “Thus shall Cambria once more flourish,
       High, as e’er in times of yore;
    And her sacred soil, still nourish
       Heav’n born bards for evermore.”

We cannot quit this place without informing the stranger, (if he be not
already aware of the circumstance) that a Society has been lately
established here, as well as in the other Divisions of the Principality,
which has been denominated the “_Cymmrodorion Society in Gwynedd_;” and
whose object is the preservation of Ancient British Literature,—Poetical,
Historical, Antiquarian, Sacred, and Moral, and the encouragement of
National Music.  The term Cymmrodorion has been adopted, (as specified by
the Members of the Committee in Powys) more particularly out of respect
to an ancient Society of that name, established in London, 1751, under
the Patronage of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.  An Eisteddfod,
or Congress of Bards, was held at Carmarthen, July 8, 1819, under the
sanction of Lord Dynevor, and the Bishop of St. David’s; and another at
Wrexham, September 13, 1820, under the Patronage of Sir W. W. Wynne.  A
similar Meeting is to take place at Carnarvon, sometime in the course of
the ensuing Autumn, when our greatly esteemed and highly respected Lord
Lieutenant, Viscount Warren Bulkeley, it is hoped will preside.  Several
Meetings have already been held, a Committee formed, and regulations made
in order to promote its success, and ensure a full attendance.

Old Segontium occupies the summit of a hill, about a quarter of a mile to
the South East of the present Town, and is intersected by the road
leading to Bethgelert; its ancient British name was Caer Sallawg: {91} it
is about 150 yards in length, and 100 wide; some remains of the Roman
Walls are still visible, (now covered with Ivy) particularly near the
South East corner.  Some years back there appeared the remnant of a
building, made with tiles, and plaistered with very hard and smooth
mortar; this is supposed to have been part of a _Hypocaust_.  The mortar
in all other parts is very hard, and mixed with much gravel, and sand.
This ancient Station forms an oblong of very considerable extent,
seemingly from four to six Acres.  Camden suspects that this might have
been the _Setantiorum_, Porlus of Ptolemy being willing to read it
_Segontiorum_, but the situation of the former is certainly at the mouth
of the Ribble.  He is most probably right, in supposing it to have been,
in after times, named Caer Cwstenin, or the Castle of Constantine; and
that _Hugh Lupus_, who certainly invaded Anglesey, in 1098, had here a
temporary post.  Mathew of Westminster asserts, (but upon what authority
is not mentioned) that Constantius, father of Constantine, was interred
here, and that Edward caused the body to be taken up, and honourably
reburied in the Church, (probably of St. Publicius).  Mr. Rowlands in his
history of Anglesey says, that Helen, the supposed mother of this reputed
Saint had a Chapel {92} here, which, he tells us, was in being in his
days.  Near the steep Bank of the Seiont, about one hundred yards from
the end of Pool Street, and divided by the road leading to Clynnog and
Pwllheli, are the ruins of a Roman Fort, connected, no doubt, with Old
Segontium, and intended, as it is conjectured, to protect the landing
from the river.—On two sides the walls are pretty entire, one is
seventy-four yards long, the other sixty-four; height ten feet eight
inches, thickness six feet.  A great part of the facing is taken away,
which discovers the peculiarity of the Roman masonry; it consists of
regular courses, the others have the stones disposed in zigzag fashion.
Along the walls are three parallel lines of round holes, not three inches
in diameter (nicely plaistered within) which pass through the whole
thickness.  There are other similar holes, which are discovered in the
end of the Wall, and some to run through it lengthways.  There are
various conjectures respecting the use for which these were intended, the
most probable is, that they were for the purpose of holding the
scaffolding, which were supported, it is likely, by cylindrical iron
bars, and when taken out, the air was admitted to harden the mortar,
which was poured into the work in a liquid state.  Near one corner, some
years ago, the foundation of a round Tower was discovered; it was paved,
and in it were found the horn of a deer, and skeletons of some lesser
animals.  There were similar ruins on the opposite shore, and within
these few years, in scouring the channel of the river, large pieces of a
curious old foot Bridge were discovered, supposed to have been Roman.—A
gold coin, of about seventeen shillings weight, was found here, inscribed
T. DIVI AVG FIL AVGVSTVS.  And a small one, of mixed metal, with a head,
and the following legend on one side: ANTONINVS AVG PIVS P P TR. P. XXII.
on the other a female figure, leading a small animal with her right hand,
and holding a spear in her left, and the following letters, SALVTI AVG
COS IIII.  And a stone with the following Letters, continued for many
years, in a wall near the road, about the centre of Segontium, and which
has lately disappeared, S V C supposed by some to mean, Segontium urbs
Constantine.  Cadwallon, one of the Princes of Wales, about A.D. 620, (on
account of Anglesey being infested by the Irish and Pictish Rovers)
removed the British Court from Aberffraw, where it had been placed about
200 years before, by Caswallon law hir, to Segontium.  The Roman road
from Segontium to Dinorwig, and thence to Cornovium, was visible on a
part of Rhos Bodrual, till within these few years, when that part of the
Common was cultivated.

The Mother or Parish Church of Carnarvon, called Llanbeblig, is situated
about one hundred yards beyond, or to the East of old Segontium, and
according to our Historians, is dedicated to St. Publicius, Son of Macsen
Wledig, (Maximus the Tyrant) and his Wife Helen, Daughter of Endef, Duke
of Cornwal.—It is said that he retired from the World, and took a
religious habit.  Richard II. bestowed this Church, and the Chapel at
Carnarvon, on the Nuns of St. Mary’s, in Chester, in consideration of
their poverty; and in the recital of another Charter of the same Prince,
it is mentioned that his Grandfather, Edward III. had bestowed on those
Religious, the Advowson of Llangathen, in Carmarthenshire; both which on
the Dissolution, were annexed to the See of Chester, and remain to this
day, under the Patronage of the Bishop of that Diocese.  In a recess to
the North of the Communion Table, is an elegant Altar Tomb, with the
following inscription: Here lieth the body of William Griffith, Esq. the
Son of William Griffith, Knight, who died Nov. 28, 1587, and Margaret his
Wife, Daughter of John Wynne ap Meredith, Esq. who built this Tomb, 1593.
{95}—Their figures are in white Marble, lying on a mat, admirably carved;
he is in armour, she has on a short quilled ruff, and ruffles at her
wrists, in a long gown, and a sash around her waist.  And in the
Churchyard, some years ago, was the following, which it may be useful to
preserve, as it is very probable that a house in this neighbourhood, _Cae
Bold_, took its name from this family:—Here lyeth the body of Ellin Bold,
Daughter of William Bold, Esq. and Wife to John Ranshcraf, of Breton,
Gent. who died 1st day of April, 1663.  And near it the following: Here
lyeth interred the body of John Smyth, of Carnarvon, the elder, who died
the 23d day of May, A.D. 1645.  In the late Mr. Foxwist’s pew, in the
said Church, on a brass plate, is the following inscription;

    In quo præ multis, scribend i gloria fulsit,
    Ricardus Foxwist, hic pede tritus adest,
    Annus Christi tutus fuit M.D: luce patrici
    Dum tenet expirans, vulnera quinque tua;
    Corporis atque tui, tandem pars, aditur alt’ra,
    Dum conjux uno, clauditur in tumulo,
    Hæcque Johanna fuit, ac _Spicer_ nata Johanne;
    Pauperibus larga, justa, pudica; fuit,

Several pleasant excursions may be recommended to the Tourist, whilst
resident at Carnarvon: 1st.  He may either cross the Strait by the
Carnarvon Ferry, called Tal y Foel, and examine Newborough, (once the
seat of our ancient Princes) and that part of the Anglesey coast, or,
engage a boat, and sail down to Aber Menai; visit the Barracks, called by
the Welsh Y Belan, and proceed from thence to the once celebrated
Peninsula of Llanddwyn, which, though in the time of Edward III. it
contained only eight small houses, (then called _Weles_,) yet in the
reign of Henry VIII. was one of the richest Prebends in the Cathedral of
Bangor; its wealth arose not from the real fertility of the place, but
from the superstition of the common people—from pilgrimages to crosses,
reliques, Holy wells, ordeals, and what Mr. Rowlands calls
_ichthuomania_, or divination from Fishes.—In the time of Owen Glyndwr,
one Yorwerth Vychan, Rector of Llanddoged, made pretentions to the
Offerings, and sacrilegiously seized on them; but Griffith le Yonge,
Chancellor to that Chieftain, interfered, and by a decree of his, put a
stop to the invasion of the rights of the place: Here are still visible
the ruins of the old Church, dedicated to St. Dwywen, Daughter of
Brychan, one of the holy _Colidei_, or primitive Christians of Britain,
who distinguished themselves by living in seclusion and retirement.—Near
it are some of the remains of the prebendal house:—The first appears to
have been no inelegant building; the last is noted for the residence of
Richard Kyffin, Rector of this place, and Dean of Bangor, before
mentioned.  The Barracks, above alluded to, were created about 35 or 40
years ago, by the late Lord Newborough, of Glyn Llifon, when he was
Colonel of the Militia of this County, for the accommodation of the men
when called out on permanent duty.

Some of the Inhabitants of Carnarvon are frequently employed in fishing,
during the greatest part of the year, both in the Menai and Carnarvon
Bay; the fish principally taken are the following, viz. Cod, Turbot,
Soles, Salmon, Mullet, Bream, Ray, &c. all excellent in their kind;
Oysters are also taken on the Anglesey coast.  There is a small Creek, or
Harbour near the point of Llanddwyn, where vessels frequently put in to
await the return of the Tide.  A red and a black Buoy, and also a Perch,
have been placed near the entrance of Carnarvon Bar, for the direction of
Navigators.  The Botanist, Naturalist, Sailor, or Sportsman, would find
sufficient employment, and meet with considerable amusement during a
short voyage of this description, as there are varieties of Shells on the
sea shore, some scarce Plants on the rocks, and Rabbits in the sand
banks.  The Straits of the Menai have frequently been the scene of many a
bloody encounter between the Welsh, Irish; Danes, &c. and the reader may
not probably be displeased with our introducing here, a part of Gray’s
spirited version of the Rev. Evan Evans’s translation of Gwalchmai’s Ode,
{98a} celebrating the victory of Prince Owen Gwynedd, over three fleets
of Irish, Danish, and Norman Pirates, at Tal y Foel, nearly opposite
Carnarvon, on the Anglesey Coast, about the year 1158: “Ardwyrëaf hael o
hil Rodri,” &c.

       Owen’s praise demands my Song,
    Owen swift and Owen strong,—
    Fairest flower of Roderick’s stem,—
    Gwynedd’s shield, and Britain’s gem:
    He nor heaps his brooded stone,
    Nor on all profusely pours;
    Lord of every regal art,
    Liberal hand, and open heart.

       Big with hosts of mighty name,
    Squadron’s three against him came;
    This the force of Erin hiding,
    Side by side as proudly riding;
    On her shadow, long and gay
    Lochlin plows the wat’ry way:
    There, the Norman sails afar,
    Catch the winds, and join the war;
    Black and huge along they sweep,
    Burthens of the angry deep.

       Dauntless on his native sands,
    The Dragon {98b} son of Mona stands,
    In glittering arms and glory drest,
    High he rears his ruby crest.
    There the thund’ring strokes begin,
    There the press, and there the din;
    _Tal y Moelfre’s_ {98c} rocky shore
    Echoing to the battle’s roar;
    Check’d by the torrent tide of blood,
    Backward _Menai_ rolls his flood;
    While heap’d the Hero’s feet around,
    Prostrate warriors gnaw the ground:
    Where his glowing eye-balls turn,
    Thousand banners round him burn;
    Where he points his purple spear,
    Hasty, hasty rout is there;
    Marking with indignant eye,
    Fear to stop, and shame to fly:
    There Confusion, Terror’s child,
    Conflict fierce, and Ruin wild,
    Agony, that pants for breath,
    Despair, and honourable death.

The next expedition we shall recommend is a visit to the Llanllyfni Slate
Quarries, and the Nantlle (or as they were formerly called the Bala
Deulyn) Lakes, then proceed by Drws y Coed, to the Bethgelert road, and
return by Quellyn Lake and Bettws Village to Carnarvon.  Part of this
rout, particularly from the Quarries to the main road, leading from
Carnarvon to Bethgelert, will not admit of a four-wheeled Carriage, and
it would be difficult to take even a Gig along that portion of it.  The
whole of this circuit, as before described, round the huge Mynydd-mawr,
(a mountain which forms so remarkable a feature in the landscape from
Carnarvon) will make a distance probably of about one and twenty miles.
Persons who may be induced to examine this interesting part of the
County, would do well to hire ponies at Carnarvon, and set off after an
early breakfast; they would then be able to return by three or four
o’clock.  The first part of the journey, for two miles and a half, is
along the Pwllheli road; about that distance, (a few yards beyond a small
bridge) the turn on the left must be taken, afterwards the Slate Carts
(of which the stranger will meet with a great number) will be a
sufficient direction.  It is thought necessary to mention these
particulars, as there are neither mile stones nor finger posts to point
the way, and but few of the country people understand the English
language; the stranger would therefore act wisely to engage a good
intelligent guide, well recommended by some gentleman resident at
Carnarvon.  Pont Seiont (above and below which the Scenery is very
beautiful) is a bridge within a short mile of the town, and between which
and Pont Newydd, (another bridge over the River Gwyrfai, a mile further,)
there is a Manor belonging to the Bishop of Bangor, called _Castellmai_,
the principal Freeholders in which, 1647, were the following, as appears
by the Extent Book: Dr. Williams, late Archbishop of York, W. Glynn, Esq.
John Bodvell, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. John Robins, Esq. William Spicer,
Esq. Sir W. Williams, Bart. Richard Prytherch, Esq.; Parish of
Llanfaglan, ditto, John Bodvell, Esq. Wm. Foxwist, Esq. Thomas Glynn,
Esq. Hugh Griffith, Esq. Richard Prytherch, Esq. John Robins, Esq.:
Llanwnda Parish,—William Foxwist, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. Thomas Williams,
Esq. and Thomas Glynn, Esq.

There is a called Gwaredog, a little to the S.E. of the last mentioned
bridge, which is celebrated (according to our Welsh Pedigrees) as the
birth-place of the renowned Patrick, the Patron Saint of the Irish; has
genealogy is thus given, in Bonedd y Saint, published in the Myvyrian
Archaiology: Padric Sant ap Alfryd ap Gronwy ap Gwdion ap Dôn o Waredawg
yn Arvon.  Several other places contend for this honor, such as
Abergwaun, or Fishguard, in Pembrokeshire; Ystrad Clwyd, (or Clyde’s
Dale) in Scotland, and several places in Ireland.  The river _Gorfai_ is
the boundary between the two Commots of Uwch and Is-Gorvai, in the
Hundred or Cantrev of Arvon.  About half a mile beyond Pont Newydd, on
the right, is Dinas Dinoethny, the residence of Captain Jones.—This
appears to have been one of the principal Roman Encampments in this
neighbourhood, and to have had several small out-posts connected with it,
which was the case also with Dinas Dinlle, a remarkable _tumulus_, or
eminence, on the sea-coast, about two miles further, as well as with
Craig y Dinas, on the river Llyfni, and Dinorwig, in the parish of
Llanddeiniolen, before mentioned; a list of which, together with the
subordinate Posts, connected with them, we shall hereafter insert.  About
a quarter of a mile beyond Dinas Dinoethwy, on the right, is Llanwnda, a
small Church, dedicated to _St. Gwyndaf_.  The Rectorial Tithes are
annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the small Vicarage,
which is discharged and consolidated with the Chapel of Llan Faglan,
dedicated to St. Baglan, situated near Aber menai, is in the Patronage of
the Bishop of Bangor.  The population of Llanwnda, in 1801, was 826, and
of Llan Faglan 102.  Near a small bridge, (as before-mentioned) called
Glann y Rhyd, the Tourist will follow the left hand road until he arrives
within a mile of the village of Llanllyfni, when he will again turn on
the left, near a smithy, and proceed towards the Slate Quarries; and he
will soon perceive, when he enters this little vale, that the Scenery
here, as well as in most parts of North Wales, unfolds its beauty
gradually as the traveller advances, until at last it displays itself in
all its grandeur and magnificence.  This Defile is bounded on the South
and East by mountains of considerable height and magnitude, which assume
a variety of shapes and characters as we proceed.  It was from this
narrow vale, which is but little known to strangers, that Wilson took his
celebrated view of Snowdon, which has been so much and so deservedly
admired; the situation was probably near the Nantlle Lakes, where Edward
I. in the summer of 1284, resided for some days; and from thence issued
several of his Edicts, some dated July 17, and others the 20th, and one
from Carnarvon, as late as the 22nd of October in the same year, which
shews what attention he paid to the establishment of governments in his
new Dominions.  The place which he occupied here during that time, was
called Bala {103} Deulyn, and had been in the possession of the
descendants of the Welsh Princes, ever since the time of Owen Gwynedd, as
appears from authorities mentioned in Sir John Wynne’s History of the
Gwydir Family, to which we have before alluded.

The principal Slate Quarries (which are near these lakes) are the Cilgwyn
and Havodlas; here there is a Steam Engine, to supply the place of
another, which lately fell into the quarry, and was broke; they are
situated in the Parish of Llandwrog, (which we soon shall have occasion
to notice in our progress to Clynog) and their produce is conveyed to
Carnarvon.  The variation in the size of the Slates took place about 75
years ago; before that time, they were all nearly of the same dimensions,
and very small; but a larger sort having been introduced, it became
necessary, for the sake of distinction, to give them a new name, and
being _doubled_ in size, and also in price, they were denominated
_Doubles_, and one thousand of these were considered and accounted by the
Workmen as equal to _two_ thousand; the first sort was therefore
distinguished by the name of _Singles_.—Some time after, another sort was
introduced, increasing still in size, so as to double those called
_doubles_, and were therefore called _Double doubles_, and the men
counted every thousand of these as four thousand: afterwards a still
larger sort was found necessary, and General Warburton, the proprietor of
the Penrhyn Estate, being in the country about that time, is said to have
given these last, the honorable name of _Countesses_; and the former,
viz. the double doubles, he denominated _Ladies_; since that time two
others of still greater magnitude have been added, which are
distinguished by the names of _Duchesses_ and _Queens_.  The colour of
these States, as well as those of Cefn Du, in the Parishes of Llanbeblig
and Llanrug, though of an equally good, if not better quality, differ a
little from those of Cae Braich y Cafn, or Mr. Pennant’s Quarry, the
former being either of a brown cast, or red tinge, while the latter are
of a dark blue.  Some of the Welsh have supposed that an ancient prophecy
of Merddyn ap Morvran, (or Merlinus Caledonius) received its
accomplishment when these Quarries were discovered, and so many men
employed, viz. That the time would come, when the rocks of Carnarvonshire
would be converted into bread.  It is to be regretted that the
proprietors of these numerous Slate Quarries, do not unite together, and
form a good Iron Rail Road, or tram-way, to Carnarvon, which though it
may be attended with great expence in the execution, would eventually be
productive of considerable advantage to the adventurers.—And as we are
upon this subject, we cannot help lamenting another circumstance which
proves a considerable diminution of the benefits arising from these
sources of support and employment to the labouring Poor, viz. that so
many accidents, by the sudden explosions of charges of Gunpowder, the
falling of Stones, rubbish, and fragments of Rocks, &c. and breaking of
ropes, whereby many of the workmen are lamed and maimed, and others lose
their sight, and thus become chargable to different Parishes.  It would
be desirable therefore, to have a Fund for the relief of these poor
sufferers; and for this purpose, the Proprietors, or their Agents, might
easily establish a Club, or Friendly Society, towards which they should
contribute liberally, themselves, and also make such an arrangement, that
a small sum should be allotted, either weekly or monthly, from the wages
of the Labourers, towards their support when incapacitated, either by
casualties or illness, from following their usual occupation; and also
for the purpose of procuring medical advice.

Llanllyfni, before mentioned, is a small Village on the road to
Crickaeth, Penmorva, and Tremadoc.—It is a discharged Rectory, valued in
the King’s Books at £7 17_s._ 6_d._ and dedicated to St. Rhediw, a Saint
(says Mr. W. Owen Pughe) whose history is not known; he is supposed to
have been buried here; and his well, his seat, the print of his Horse’s
foot, and the mark of his Thumb on a Stone, are still pretended to be
shewn.  Near the upper end of this narrow pass are some Copper Mines,
where some few workmen are employed, but the Vein is small, and the
quantity of Ore hitherto obtained, though of a good quality, has been
very inconsiderable.

The curious Visitor of these mountainous districts, will be induced, no
doubt, before he descends into the Bethgelert road, to call at
Drws-y-coed, a mountain Farm, near which, in a small Lake, known by the
name of _Llyn y Dywarchen_, is the celebrated Floating Island, mentioned
by Giraldus, and which he denominates _insula erratica_; what is
dignified with the name of Island, is merely a considerable portion of
the Turbery ground, on the side of this small Pool, undermined, and torn
off, and adhering together by the entangling of the Roots, of such Plants
as generally grow on Bogs and Morasses.  Here may be found the Nymphœa
lutea & alba, or yellow and white Water Lily, (and other Aquatic Plants)
which are not uncommon in most of the Lakes in the vicinity of Snowdon.
If the Traveller be so disposed, and the weather favourable, he will here
have an opportunity of ascending Snowdon, from the Guide’s House, near
Cawellyn (Quellyn) Lake; from whence there is a tolerable Horse Path till
within a quarter of a mile of the apex, made for the purpose of bringing
down Copper Ore from Bwlch glas, a gap, or opening between the two
summits of Snowdon.  This and the one along the side of Cwm Brwynog, in
the Parish of Llanberris, (which we shall hereafter more particularly
describe) are considered the two easiest and safest ascents; and along
either of which, any person, who is a tolerable horseman, may ride a
Welsh Pony, as far as the spot above mentioned.

We shall now conduct the Stranger to the Village of Llanberis, which on
account of its singular situation, at the end of a Lake, in a narrow
Vale, nearly at the foot of Snowdon, is well worth his attention.  The
distance from Carnarvon is about ten miles; the first five of which, so
far as a place called Cwm y Glo, (though rough, uneven, and greatly
injured by the Slate Carts) will admit of a Carriage; and from thence a
Boat may be engaged.  After travelling about a mile and a half from
Carnarvon, we obtain a view of the River Seiont, and having proceeded
along its banks a short way, we cross it, over a handsome Arch, built in
1769, by one Henry Parry, as appears by a stone in the Battlement, and
where he is underservedly denominated the modern _Inigo_: afterwards we
turn to the left; on an eminence to the right, at a little distance from
the road, is Llanrug, {108} a small Church, dedicated to St. Michael, and
formerly called Llanfihangel yn Rûg.  Some years ago, the following
little Sonnet was written on beholding this small structure, after a few
weeks absence:

       Oft as yon Fane presents its simple form;
    That small shrill Bell, that duly tolls aloud
    Each day of rest,—to call the rustic croud;
    Yon aged Yew-tree, bending with the storm;
    The thought recurs—that by indulgent Heaven,
    This humble flock, to feed with constant care,
    Their morals form, and truths divine declare,
    To me unworthy, has the charge been given.
    Then let me still, their faithful Pastor prove,
    By precepts teach, and bright example lead
    My flock the upward road, to bliss; and read
    With fervor due His word, whose name is _Love_!
    When thus my work is finish’d, and my race is run,
    That Great, Good Shepherd may pronounce “well done.”

The extent of the Parish is about five miles in length, and two in
breadth: the number of Inhabited Houses in 1811, was 158, and of
Inhabitants, 682.—It is a small Rectory, and valued in the King’s Books
at £5 12_s._ 6_d._  When arrived at the foot of a Hill, the road to the
left must be taken, which leads to Cwm y Glo before mentioned, consisting
of a group of Cottages, in a snug romantic situation, greatly and
deservedly admired; and near them a small Harbour, for Boats employed in
fishing, and bringing down Slate and Copper Ore.—On the top of the Hill,
before we descend to this place, there is a circular Rock on the left,
strongly fortified, which was probably a subordinate post to Dinas
Dinlle, Dinas Dinoethwy, and Dinas Dinorwig, before mentioned, and which
being at the entrance of this narrow pass, served to communicate any
signal to Dolbadern Castle, which is situated on a Rock between the two
Lakes, and from whence again, any notice, or intelligence of an enemy’s
approach, was conveyed to the upper end of the Vale, and so on to Capel
Curig, Dolwyddelen, &c.  From this Rock there is a most grand and
magnificent view, which on account of its opening suddenly and
unexpectedly, has the effect of enchantment.  Snowdon seems to soar in
proud pre-eminence, and to look down upon the surrounding subject Hills
with conscious superiority; some of which however, such as Erlidir, Garn,
and Glydair, on the left, (or North of the Vale) Crib Goch, and Carnedd
Higgon, on the right, appear to rival their Majestic Lord.  This grand
scenery,—this wonderful display of the works of the Most High, appears
again to great advantage, as we enter the Lake from the channel of the
River; but before we proceed, it will be proper to give a short account
of a very extra ordinary personage, (_Margaret ferch Evan_,) who lived
near this place, and denominated by Mr. Pennant, Queen of the Lakes.—He
observes further, that when he visited her Cottage, at Penllyn, in 1786,
she was about ninety years of age, and says, that she was the last
specimen of the strength and spirit of the ancient British Fair; but the
correctness of this remark may justly be doubted, as there is a Female,
(Catherine Thomas) now living at Cwm glas, (about a mile above the Church
of Llanberis) who is by no means inferior to Mr. P’s Heroine, either in
strength or agility: the following anecdote related by herself, may be
mentioned as an instance of her uncommon courage; some years age, as she
was one day watching her Sheep on one of the Rocks near her house, she
perceived a Stranger, (to all appearance a very strong, lusty man) enter
in, and having remained there a short time, he departed; Catherine
hastened home, and having examined her Cottage; she discovered that the
Stranger had stolen a Silk Handkerchief, and several other articles of
wearing Apparel; she immediately pursued him, and having taken in her
hand the post of a small gate or wicket, and taking a shorter path, she
overtook him near Gorphwysfa, almost at the upper end of the pass, (a
most lonely situation) and having laid hold of him with one hand, she
shook him well, in order to convince him of her strength, and then struck
him with the club, or rather post, that was in the other, saying at the
same time, You villain! how dare you enter into my house and steal my
property? she then took from him his Wallet, and adding, Let me see what
thou hast got in this bag? then emptying the contents, she took up her
own property, and after giving him one or two more hard strokes, she
charged him at his peril, never to enter that Vale again, otherwise he
would not be suffered to depart without a much severer chastisement.  The
following is another instance of her extraordinary strength: Mr. Jones,
the Agent of the Copper Mines at Llanberis, about eighteen years ago, was
superintending the loading of Ore, near the small Quay, at the upper end
of the Lake; and Catherine happening to be one of the Spectators, Mr. J.
went behind her unperceived, and laying hold of her, jocularly said, “now
Catherine, suppose I push you into the Lake;”—presently, she also got
behind him; and though he was a tall, strong, lusty than, she laid hold
of him under the Shoulders, and holding him up nearly at arm’s length,
Now Sir, said she, suppose I drop you in?  This extraordinary woman, who
is of a very masculine appearance, and has a pretty long black beard,
lives in a lonely Cottage, situated beyond the usual haunts of her fellow
Creatures, and without a single inmate; and though her appearance is so
unfeminine, yet she is humane, gentle and charitable, esteemed and
respected in her neighbourhood.  After this long digression, we hasten to
relate the numerous qualifications, and uncommon exploits of her rival
Amazon, the before mentioned Margaret ferch Evan, whose character I shall
sum up in Mr. Pennant’s own words,—She was the greatest hunter, shooter,
and fisher of her time; she kept a dozen at least, of Dogs, Terriers,
Greyhounds, and Spaniels, all excellent in their kinds.—She killed more
Foxes in one year, than all the confederate Hunts do in ten;—rowed
stoutly, and was Queen of the Lakes;—fiddled excellently, and knew all
our old music;—did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a good
Joiner, and made Cards for dressing Wool; and at the age of seventy, was
the best wrestler in the country, few young men daring to try a fall with
her.—Some years ago, she had a Maid of congenial qualities, but Death,
“that mighty hunter,” earthed this faithful companion of her’s; Margaret
was also Blacksmith, Shoemaker, Boat-builder, and maker of Harps:—she
could also mow Hay, shoe her own Horses, make her own Shoes, and build
her own Boats, while she was under contract to convey the Copper ore down
the Lakes.  We must not forget, that all the neighbouring Bards paid
their addresses to her, and celebrated the exploits of their beloved
_Margaret_, in pure British verse; at length she gave her hand to the
most effeminate of her admirers, (who was a harper) as if predetermined
to maintain the superiority which nature had bestowed on her.

About half a mile to the North of Pen y Llynn, (or the lower end of the
Lake) are the remains of _Llys Dinorddwig_, a house said to have been one
of the Palaces of Prince Llewelyn ap Gruffydd; the walls high and strong,
the hall twenty-four yards long, and before the house is a deep ditch,
over which had probably been a drawbridge.  Not very far from hence is a
spot called Rhiw’r Cyrn, or the Brow of the Horns, where according to
ancient usage, an Officer stood and blew his horn, to give notice to the
Household of the approach of their Master, or to summon the Vassals to
assemble on all emergent occasions.  Near this place was discovered,
about twenty years ago, a Stone, about Four Feet in length, one in
breadth, and about Six Inches thick, with the following inscription, IMP
Q TRO DECIO VS.—Persons going up the Lake may be landed either near the
New Inn, or on the Meadow below Mr. Smith’s Cottage, or they may proceed
to the extremity of the upper Pool, and walk from thence to the Village,
which is about a quarter of a mile distant, and procure refreshment at
Robert Closs’s, who keeps a small Inn there; the Landlord of this House,
as well as Pierce Jones, who lives at the other Inn, are both very civil
and obliging men, and will either act as Guides themselves, or will
procure persons to attend any Gentlemen up Snowdon, or to any of the
neighbouring Villages: Ponies may also be obtained at both these Houses:
and though the accommodations may not be equal to what we generally meet
with in large Towns, and on Public Roads, yet the Botanist, the
Mineralogist, the Artist, the Angler, and in short every person who is an
admirer of Nature, and is fond of the wonderful and sublime, will
contrive to remain a few days in this romantic, though secluded spot.
One Day may be well employed in examining Mr. Smith’s Quarries, yr Allt
Ddu, and Clogwyn y Gigfran, and observing the men while at work, many of
whom descend fifteen or twenty yards, by the assistance of two Ropes,
(one about their middle, and the other in their hands) to a small ledge,
over a dreadful precipice, where they continue engaged for many hours, in
boring, or detaching considerable fragments from the main Rock, and
ascend again in the same manner.—A visit to Twll Du, a stupendous _roche
fendue_, or split Rock, near Llyn y Cwn, about three miles North of the
Village, and mentioned by Mr. Pennant, might be recommended, as a very
rational and pleasing amusement for the second Day: this might also
include a walk over Glydair Fawr, to examine the immense columnar Rocks
on Glydair Bach; and noticed by the same Gentleman, one of which it about
25 Feet long, and six broad; the summit of this Mountain is covered with
groups of these columnar Stones, lying in all directions, and in some
places piled one upon the other.  From the two Glydairs’ may be seen
several Lakes, such as Llyn Idwal, Llyn Bochlwyd, and Llyn Ogwen; and
also the Great Irish Road, leading from Bangor Ferry to Capel Curig.
From this eminence may also be surveyed that most singular Mountain
called Trevaen, (trifurcated) which is more conical, more insulated, and
more completely detached from all the surrounding Hills and Rocks, than
perhaps any other in the Principality, and it is so steep on every side,
that it is considered, even by the Shepherds, a Feat of great vigour,
agility, and courage, to ascend this stupendous natural Pyramid; and
there being two columnar Rocks on the very summit, about 8 Feet high, and
nearly 4 from each other, and overhanging a most frightful Precipice, and
the space on the top of each very confined, it is thought a proof of
noble daring, to challenge each other to climb up, and step from one to
the other; these stones, at a particular part of the Road from Ogwen Pool
to Capel Curig, have the appearance of two men, and it is jocularly
related by the Peasants, that a Gentleman once stood a considerable time
expecting them either to move or come down.  The Mountains in this part
of Carnarvonshire, (observes Mr. Pennant) are of a stupendous height,
mostly precipitous, the tops of many edged with pointed Rock; I have,
from the depth below, says he, seen the Shepherds skipping from peak to
peak, but the point of contact was so small, that from this distance,
they seemed to my uplifted eyes, like beings of another Order, floating
in the Air.  And lastly Snowdon, will no doubt occupy one or two days
more, in a most pleasing and agreeable manner.

There are three different Routs by which Strangers are generally
conducted up this celebrated Mountain: the best, and most usual, is that
commencing between the New Inn and Dolbadarn Castle, near the Bridge, and
following the course of the River for about a quarter of a mile, and
passing very near the Waterfall called Caunant Mawr, then turning to the
left, and pursuing the Copper Sledge path-way, along the South slope of
the ridge of Hills between the upper vale of Llanberis and Cwm Brwynog,
as far as the Sheep-fold, and the Copper Mine at the upper end of Waun
Cwm Brwynog; then turning to the left, (or North) and winding up the side
of the slope or ridge, cross over till we are in view of the Llanberis
pass, above the Church.  During the first part of our progress, the view
was confined, but here on this mountain flat, the prospect is extensive,
particularly to the North West, where the greatest part of the Island of
Anglesey is visible; and to the East, a portion of Denbighshire may be
seen, between the mountains.  We now begin to ascend Llechwedd y Re, the
formidable slope above Llyn du yr Arddu, or otherwise, Clogwyn Coch, and
Clogwyn du’r Arddu, the two precipices impending over that once black,
but _now green_ Pool; (from the effects of the Copper) after this last
ascent is surmounted, the progress is easy, and the rise very gradual,
for upwards of half a mile, till we join the Bettws, or Quellyn Copper
Ore path, near Bwlch Glas gap, before mentioned; from thence to the peak
the distance is something more than a quarter of a mile, and the ascent
easy.  There was a circular wall formerly on the summit, (which is not
much more than from six to eight yards square) to shelter the visitors
from the cold, but the Bethgelert Guide, named Lloyd, having collected a
sum of money, (about five Pounds as it is supposed) from different
Gentlemen; in order to build a small hut, or shed, he made use of the
Stones for that purpose; but the miserable building which he erected, and
which is nothing more than a heap of stones piled together in the form of
a small Stack of Corn, could not have cost him more than twenty or thirty
Shillings, and is on the east side, about ten yards below the _apex_; but
at present is of no use, as it is nearly coming down:—Here it is usual
for Strangers to leave their names inscribed on the ruins of this small
Building.—Small stones are frequently found near this spot, bearing the
impression of different Shells.  From this elevated situation may be
seen, in clear weather, the Wicklow Hills, on the West; the Isle of Man,
and the Cumberland and Westmoreland Mountains, on the North and North
East; and a part of South Wales to the South West: The best time for such
a view are the months of June and July, when it will be necessary to be
on the Mountain before Sun-rise, as mists and fogs generally collect soon
after.—It would not however, be advisable for persons of a tender habit,
or delicate constitution, to attempt such an arduous undertaking,
particularly in the night: at the same time it may be safely asserted,
that no person who is equal to the task, will ever have occasion to
regret having ascended Snowdon, even in cloudy weather; particularly if
the Sun should occasionally appear, as in this aerial region the scenery
and the views are perpetually shifting and changing; and many have been
known to prefer, a partially cloudy or misty, to a hot sultry day,
(though tolerably clear) for such an excursion.  We shall here beg leave
to introduce some extracts from a Letter received by a young Lady, in
which her Friend gives a very lively and interesting description of the
pleasure she enjoyed on a visit to Snowden, in such weather as that above
described: “My dear Friend,—I considered myself particularly unfortunate
in not finding you at home, during my visit to North Wales; especially as
I remained so long in your immediate neighbourhood.  Perhaps you may
recollect telling me, with what (I must confess) I _then_ thought a
prejudiced affection for your native scenery; ‘that no season or weather,
could deprive Snowdon of its powers of amazing, and delighting.’  The
truth of your remark forced itself into my mind, during two successive
days, on which I ascended its lofty summit.  The accounts of those two
days, and the light in which my English feelings regarded your Country
scenes, will, I trust, not be uninteresting.  The morning destined for
our first attempt, was ushered in by one of those intense fogs, which
portend a sultry day; the late learned, worthy, and much respected
Counsellor Dancey, was one of the party, and several Ladies and
Gentlemen: I despair of conveying to your mind, any idea of the
high-wrought expectations with which I commenced the ascent of this King
of Hills, and never were expectations more fully answered.  The variety,
the constant succession of magnificent scenes, that gradually opened to
our view, are absolutely indiscribable.  You may conceive a _group_, (for
we found other parties on the summit) of apparently aerial beings,
standing on an elevated peak, literally above the clouds; for the
glorious source of day, shed his Beams upon our heads, while our feet
were enveloped in mist.—Picture to yourself the Sea, when agitated by a
storm, suddenly arrested by an intense Frost, for such was, absolutely,
the appearance, the congregated mists and clouds, represented to our
astonished and enraptured eyes.  In the course of about ten minutes, or a
quarter of an hour, this irregular surface of waves began to break up and
separate; and like an immense Army, sent advanced guards, and columns in
different directions.  The commotion, at the first breaking up, and the
regular movements afterwards, were grand and magnificent beyond
description.  After these advanced guards (which were generally fleecy,
transparent clouds, with fringes and festoons hanging in different
fantastic shapes, and reflected Beams of the Sun, throwing golden tints
upon their edges) came the main Army.  Presently through the mist,
several huge Mountains reared their Leviathan backs, and immense
projections, appearing like so many capes and promontaries, stretching
out into an endless Ocean; while other rocks assumed the appearance of
small conical Islands, in this resplendent abyss.  In a short time, these
advancing Armies regularly encamped, or _bovouack’d_ for the night, in
the different passes, and excavations of the mountains; this was not all,
for as we descended, while these beautifully transparent mists were
quietly at rest, some hundreds of yards below us, we suddenly beheld huge
gigantic shadows, thrown athwart the immense abyss.  This was about fire
in the evening, for with a reluctance similar to that of our great
progenitors, in leaving Paradise, we lingered on the summit some hours.
We stopped and gazed, our sticks and umbrellas were converted, by the
reflection, into Goliah of Gath’s tremendous club or weaver’s beam;—we
began to brandish these weapons, and to our great amusement and
astonishment, our lengthened bulky shadows gently imitated our different
movements.  At length we tore ourselves from these grand and sublime
scenes, and arrived by the dusk of the evening at the pleasant little Inn
of Llanberris.  Having been so much delighted the first, I was easily
induced (undeterred by heat and fatigue) to join a party of friends, who
were going up the following day;—about half way, we had a fine distant
view of Anglesey, with the indentures formed in its coast by the Sea; a
thick mist overtook us, and shut the fairy scene from our eyes.—We
reached the summit completely enveloped in clouds, which gradually
opening, the Elyssian Vale of Nanthwynant burst upon the sight; the
clouds soon covered it again, but we were amply compensated by a view of
an extensive tract of Sea and Land, terminated by the faintly marked
outline of South Wales.—Soon another opening presented the romantic
region of Capel Curig, which with the variety of Lakes that appeared on
every side, with the Sun shining upon many of them, afforded a most
enchanting _coup de œil_.—At this moment the attention of the party was
most forcibly arrested by the appearance of our shadows reflected upon
the mists, (but not so lengthened as the day before, as it was earlier in
the afternoon) and encircled by three Rainbows of the most vivid and
distinct colours.—The effect was beyond description.  It was then that
the thought of the great Creator of all these Wonders rushed upon the
mind.  What an awful, incomprehensible Being must He be, who with one
word, formed these grand and magnificent scenes, and at whose nod, they
shall crumble into dust!

    These are thy glorious works!  Parent of good,
    Almighty; thine this universal frame,
    Thus wondrous fair; Thyself how wondrous then!”

Parties generally take cold meat with them, and a bottle either of Wine,
or Spirits, and dine at the Spring or Well near the side of the Quellyn
Copper path, about two hundred yards below Bwlch Glas gap, where the
Copper Ore Bin is situated.

Wyddfa, (pronounced Withva) is the Welsh name of Snowdon; and it is
sometimes, though improperly, called Eryri, which appears to have been
the general appellation in former days, of the whole range of mountains
from Conway to Clynog: Two different derivations are generally given of
the word Eryri, one is Eryr, an Eagle; and the other Eira, or Eiri, Snow;
which is the most correct we will not pretend to determine, but it
appears that the person who originally translated the word, considered
the latter to be the genuine etymology.  The distance from Dolbadern
Castle to the summit, may be about six miles; two to the Turbary flat in
Waun Cwm Brwynog, two to Clogwyn Coch Copper mine, and two from thence to
the top.  There are two other routs from the Village, which ought not to
be attempted except by active young men; one up the steep declivity just
above the Church, and the other through Hafn (pronounced Haven) Mawr,
near the Old Bridge, (Bont Vawr).  The height of Snowdon, above
High-water mark at Carnarvon, is 3591 Feet.

Llanberis, in the Commot of Isgorfai, and Hundred of Arfon, is a small
Rectory, discharged from paying tenths, and valued in the King’s Books at
£4 18_s._ 9_d._  Patron, the Bishop of Bangor; Church, dedicated to St.
Peris.  The number of inhabited Houses in the Parish, in 1811, was 86;
and the resident Population 438.  Peris, to whom the Church is dedicated,
is stated in our Welsh MSS. (Bonedd y Saint) to have been a Cardinal from
Rome, who together with Padarn, (Paterninus) another Welsh Saint of
congenial habits and disposition, it is probable, withdrew from the world
to this secluded spot, as a place well adapted, according to the custom
and mistaken ideas of those dark ages, for religious retirement and
devotion: Peris fixed upon the upper Vale, which is still called Nant
Peris; and Padern chose the lower, distinguished in Leland’s time by the
name of Nant Padarn; as the properest situation for the erection of their
respective cells.—Eglwys Padarn, (the ruins of which many persons now
living recollect to have seen) was situated on a meadow, near the lower
Lake, called Llyn Padarn, on the left of the road in going from the Inn
to the old Castle.  Cadvan, another religious devotee, came from Armorica
into Wales about the same time, and became Abbot of Bardsey.  The upper
Lake is about a mile in length, and a quarter wide, and is said to be
twenty Fathoms deep particularly near a place called Diphwys:—and the
lower Lake, called Llyn Padarn, is about three miles in length, and
upwards of half a mile broad; both the Pools abound in Trout, and Char;
Salmon are also frequently taken in them.  Not far from the Church is the
Saint’s Well, where a large Trout has for ages been exhibited to
Strangers; his appearance is considered a fortunate omen, and his
non-appearance the contrary; the present fish is about 20 or 30 years
old; the wonderful Pass, and two Cromlech’s, about two miles above the
Church, are well worth examining.—Some hopes are entertained, that the
beauties of this little Vale, will in time be accessible to strangers, by
the opening of a good Carriage Road this way to Capel Curig.  An Old
Woman, many years ago, is said to have made use of the hollow, under one
of the before mentioned Cromlechs, (or fragments of Rocks) as her dairy,
during the Summer months.  The distance from the Village to Capel Curig,
is about 8 miles; and to Bethgelert, through Nanthwynant, 11 or 12.  The
upper end of the Pass, is called Gorphwysva, or the Resting Place.  There
are three other Lakes in the Parish, besides those already mentioned,
viz. Llynn Cwm Dwthwch, in which there are very fine flavored trout, and
on which a small boat is kept for the use of anglers, by Pierce Jones,
the Innkeeper.  This pool is the source of the river Hwch, flowing near
the Castle.—Llyn y Cwn, to the North, and Llyn Cwm Ffynnon, to the N.E.
of the village; in the former are some aquatic plants, particularly the
LOBELLIA DORTMANNA—SUBULARIA AQUATICA—ISOETES LACUSTRIS; and Twll Du,
below it, is the habitat of numerous and rare plants: a great variety may
also be discovered on and about Allt wen, above Mr. Smith’s Cottage,
between the two Lakes, as well as on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, at the upper end
of Waun Cwm Brwynog, and on Clogwyn y Garnedd, which is the tremendous
precipice immediately under Snowdon, to the North.  The old Copper Mines,
(Shafts, Levels, &c.) near the S.E. end of the upper Lake, also claim a
visit, particularly from every Mineralogist and Geologist.  At some
distance below Llynn Du’r Arddu, nearly at the upper end of Waun Cwm
Brwynog, may be observed a huge black Stone, or fragment of a Rock,
called Y Maen Du yn yr Arddu; under or upon which, according to the
popular superstition, if a person sleep a night, he will awake either a
Poet or a Madman.  The Gimlet Rock, near Pwllheli, the Studwall, (or St.
Tudwal,) Islands,—the Promontory of Lleyn, (or Langanum Promontorium)—and
Bardsey Island, at its extremity, may be clearly seen from Snowdon; as
well as Cadair Idris Mountain, near Dolgelley, in Merionethshire, and
Plinlimmon in Montgomeryshire.

The old Tower, or Castle, called Dolbadern, must at one time have been
considerably larger, as the remains of other Towers, Walls, and Buildings
are still visible.—It is supposed to have been erected about the
beginning of the eleventh Century, or perhaps earlier, by one of the
Welsh Princes, {126} for the defence of this strong Pass, and to be used
occasionally as a hunting and fishing seat; for it is mentioned in the
Welsh Histories, or Chronicles, considerably earlier than Edward the 1st.
and there are some Welsh Poems still extant, which were addressed to Owen
Goch (Rufus) during the time of his imprisonment in this Fortress by his
Brother Llewelyn ap Griffith, last Prince of Wales, of the British line,
which was from the year 1254 to 1277, being 23 years: The following is a
part of an Ode, (Awdl) composed by Howel Voel ap Griffri ap Pwyll
Gwyddel, lamenting the confinement of that Prince:

    Duw mawr amerawdwr dyniadon,
    Dillwng dy walch, terwyn-walch tirion,
    Dewr Owain, den-rudd liw ffion,
    Dur-goch Bâr, llachar, llawch Deon, &c.

“Great God, the supreme Governor of the World, release from captivity,
the mild, the brave, the Lion-hearted Owen; with the ruddy Cheeks, and
his bright-gleaming steel Lance, tinged with the blood of his enemies;
the defender of all those who come to seek his protection;—he never
dismissed the injured suppliant unredressed,—the reliever of the
oppressed—the generous distributor of costly gifts.  The Earth appears
desolate, since he has been in confinement,—the hopes of his dependants
are fled, and grief and disappointment will convey his friends and
adherents to the gloomy mansions of the dead.—Daring, enterprising,
successful, conquering General!  He disdained to hoard up useless
treasures.—He was the Idol and Delight of his Countrymen,” &c.  See the
remainder in the Myvyrian Archaiology already mentioned.

Another Poem, by the same Bard, begins thus:

    Gwr sydd yn y twr yn hir westi,
    Gwreidd, Teyrneidd, Teyrn-walch Ri,
    Gwr a’m dothyw, gwall o’i golli,—o fyw
    Gwreidd-liw, a glyw ei glodfori, &c.

The following attempt at a versification of the commencement, though,
very far inferior to the original, may, nevertheless, give the English
reader some idea of the strength and spirit of the composition:

    In yonder Tower my darling Owen groans,
    Oppress’d with grief, I hear his piteous moans;
    Ah wretched Prince! within those walls confin’d,
    A Brother’s victim—thus to death consign’d;
    What mournful sounds, were to my ears convey’d,
    As late dejected, o’er these rocks I stray’d;
    Brave Owen’s name shall dwell upon my tongue
    His matchless deeds, shall by the muse be sung
    From ancient Princes, we his Lineage trace,
    And valiant Chiefs, adorn his noble race;
    No more his gates receive the crouded throng,
    His guests no longer hear the minstrel’s song:
    In war distinguish’d by his broken shield,
    Like valiant Rodri, {128a} he disdain’d to yield:
    Shame that a Prince, should thus in bondage pine,
    Whose acts, if free, would Rhun’s {128b} fam’d deeds outshine
    These lands ne’er saw the Saxon’s fire and sword,
    Till he knew durance vile from Snowdon’s Lord, &c.

The reader is referred for the remainder to the publication before
mentioned.

Bishop Godfrey Goodman, purchased a Farm (Ty Du) in this Parish, where he
resided during the greatest part of the usurpation of Oliver Cromwell.
He was a native of Ruthin, and left that Farm and Coed Mawr, towards the
maintenance of the poor of his native parish.  He died Bishop of
Gloucester, and made a most singular Will, printed in York’s five Royal
Tribes.  About 37 years ago, a remarkably strong man, (Foulk Jones) lived
at Ty Du; many wonderful things are related of him, such as his carrying
the largest end of a piece of timber, while it required three men to
support the other;—his holding a bull, with one hand, by the
horns;—carrying a yearling heifer, that was unwell, home from the
field;—throwing a Denbighshire Champion, who had heard of his strength,
and was come over, either to fight or wrestle with him, over a wall from
a field into the road; and he is said to have lifted a strong man, who
insulted him, at Carnarvon, over the battlements of the Bridge, and to
have held him over the water, until he had submitted to make an apology,
for having so attacked him without any provocation.  Many persons now
living recollect this man; he was a person of sober, peaceable habits,
and much beloved and respected by all his neighbours.

The Rev. Evan Evans, alias Prydydd Hir, Author of Dissertatio de Bardis,
Specimens of Ancient British or Welsh Poetry; The Love of our Country, 2
Vols. of Welsh Sermons, 8vo. &c. was Curate of Llanberis in the year
1771.  He was then employed in collecting and transcribing Welsh MSS. and
had access to the libraries of most of the gentlemen of North Wales,
particularly to the valuable collections of Sir W. W. Wynne, Bart. (the
present gentleman’s father, and from whom he received a Pension of £20.
per Annum, which was afterwards withdrawn), those of Hengwrt, near
Dolgelley, Gloddaith, near Conway, and Plas Gwynn, P. Panton’s, Esq.
Anglesey.  Mr. Evans born at Gynhawdref, near Aberystwith, in
Cardiganshire, was educated at the Grammar School of Ystrad Meirig, in
the same County, under the celebrated Mr. Richards, many years master of
that School.  He shewed an early attachment to the Welsh Muse, and was
soon noticed by Mr. Lewis Morris, the famous Antiquary and Bard, who
conceived a very favorable opinion of his abilities, from some of his
juvenile compositions, in his native language.—Mr. Evans was of Merton
College, Oxford; he is said to have died in great distress and poverty,
at the place of his nativity, August, 1789, in the 58th year of his age.
The inhabitants of Llanberis still shew a pool in the river where he used
to bathe.  The late Rev. B. Williams, of Vron, near Bala, Mr. Pennant’s
companion in his Welsh Tour, composed the following lines to his memory,
which may not be unacceptable to our readers, particularly at the present
period, when the love of Welsh Literature seems to be reviving:

       On Snowdon’s haughty brow I stood,
    And view’d, afar, old Mona’s flood;—
    Carnarvon Castle, Eagle-crown’d,
    And all the glorious prospect round.
       But soon each gay idea fled,
    For Snowdon’s favorite Bard is dead;—
    Poor Bard, accept a genuine tear,
    And read thy true eulogium _here_;
    Here, in my _heart_, that rues the day,
    That stole Eryri’s pride away:
    But lo! where seen, by fancy’s eye,
    His visionary form glides by,
    Pale, ghastly pale,—that hollow cheek,—
    That frantic look does more than speak,
    And tells a tale so full of woe,
    My bosom swells, my eyes o’erflow:—
    To want and to despair a prey,
    He pin’d, and sigh’d his soul away!
    Ungrateful countrymen, your _pride_,
    Your _glory_, wanted bread and died!
    Whilst Ignorance and Vice are fed,
    Shall Wit and Genius droop their head?
    Shall fawning Sycophants be paid
    For flattering fools? while thou art laid
    On thy sick bed, the mountain {131} heath,
    Waiting the slow approach of Death,
    Beneath inhospitable skies,
    Without a friend to close thine eyes?
    Thus, shall the chief of Bards expire?
    The Master of the British Lyre!
    And shall thy hapless reliques rot,
    Unwept, unhallowed, and forgot?
    No, while one grateful Muse remains,
    And _Pity_ dwells on _Cambria’s_ plains,
    Thy mournful story shall be told,
    And wept till Time itself grows old.

                                    R. WILLIAMS, of Vron, near Bala.—1799.

About the year 1805, John Closs, son of Robert Closs, the Innkeeper at
Llanberis, a little boy about seven years of age, was persuaded to go and
reside with his grandmother, at Caeau gwynion, in Nant y Bettws, not far
from Quellyn Pool, and his mother having come to see him, the love of
home revived in his memory, and the thoughts of seeing his brothers and
sisters became so powerful, that he resolved to follow his mother to
Llanberis, unknown both to her and his grandmother; he therefore pursued
her up the mountain at some distance: it was in the winter time, late in
the evening, and it began to snow, he lost his way, and after wandering
some time, he perished on the mountain.  His mother, (though she once
fancied she heard a child crying) thought he was at his grandmother’s,
and the did woman concluded he was gone home with his mother, thus both
being deceived, it was some time before it was known that he had followed
his mother on that fatal evening; after two or three days painful search,
(numbers of the neighbours having collected together) his body was found
at the verge of a precipice, near the top of Moel Aelia.  The following
lines were composed on that melancholy occasion:

    A luckless lad, one winter’s day,
    Unknown to Granny, ran away,
    Nor longer at her house would stay
                   Without his mother.

    Unknowing that her child pursu’d,
    The gathering storm, unmov’d, she view’d,
    The thoughts of home her strength renew’d;—
                   Alas poor mother!

    With feebler steps, and fainter cry,
    Alarm’d, he sees the dark’ning sky,
    Yet still he hop’d that she was nigh,
                   And sobb’d my mother.

    Dark was the night, the snow descends,
    Near Aelia’s top his life he ends,
    As home his weary way he beads,
                   Nor longer cries my mother!

Some of our readers may probably be pleased and amused with the following
extracts from Leland, respecting Llanberis and its neighbourhood:

    “Linne Dolbaterne, 2 miles in length, and a diminutive mile in
    breadth; Vallis Monachus, alias Nant Manach, or Peris, is the upper
    Valley, in which is Linne Peris, a mile in length, and a dim half in
    breadth.—Segent (Seiont) cometh first through Llynn Peris, and a bow
    shot off, runneth into Llyn Padarn; there is but a meadow and bridge
    between these two pools.—In these two pooles be redde belly fishes,
    called thorr gough (Tor goch) id est, thori aut pectoris rubri.
    There be also some of these in Linne Tarddynni, (Cawellyn) and in
    Linne Bala deulynn, (Llanllyfni Lakes); they be taken in these three
    pooles in order, and taken in one and not seen in the other; Linne
    Doythock nothing so big as Linne Peris: these three, Linne Peris,
    Linne Padarn, and Linne Doythock, are all in the Parish of Llanberis,
    and the lowest Lake is five miles E.S.E. from Carnarvon, and lie in
    vallies, W.N.W. from Llanberis.  Bala Deulynn is in Hugh Gurvai (Uwch
    Gorfai) Hundred, and six miles (nine miles) beyond Carnarvon; the
    others, viz. Linne Peris, Linne Dolpaterne, Linne Doythock, and Linne
    Tarddynni, are in the Commot of Is Gorvai, (_infra_ Gwyrvai) and all
    the great Withaw Hill {133} is wholly in this Commot; this hill is
    all in the Parish of Peris, and is a _radicibus_ five miles to the
    top.  Dolbaterne Castle, on a rock, betwixt two Linnes; there is yet
    a piece of a Tower, where Owen Gough (Goch) brother to Llywelyn, last
    Prince, was in prison; it is in Is Gwrfai Commot.  Dolbadarn a five
    miles from Carnarvon, by E.S.E. hard by Linne Peris; Segent (Seiont)
    as I heard say riseth at Linne Dolbaterne.  This Pool is three miles
    in length, and in some places a mile broad, and in diverse places
    less and less; it lieth by Withaw Hill, (Snowdon) and is distant 5
    miles from Carnarvon, towards S.E.—The best Wood of Carnarvonshire is
    by Glynn Cledair, in the Parish of Dolwyddelen, and by Glynn Lligwy,
    and by Capel Curig, and at Llanperis,—all Creigiau’r Ryri is Forest.
    Metely good wood about Conway Abbey, and Penmachno, and about
    Coetmore, and Coet Park, by Bangor, and other places; in Lleyn and
    Eivionydd is little wood.  Carnarvonshire, about the shore, hath
    reasonable good corn, about a mile upward from the shore unto
    Carnarvon,—then more upward be Eryri Hills, and in them is very
    little corn, except oats in some places, and a little barley, but
    scantly rye, if there were the Deer would destroy it; but in Lleyn
    and Eifionydd is good corn, both by shore, and almost through upland.
    Syr Gul. Griffith hath a fayr House at Penrynn, two miles on this
    side Bangor; William vab William, dwelleth at a place called
    Gochwillan, a mile on this side Penryn; William Coetmore, dwelleth at
    Coetmore, by Tal Lynn Ogwen; Pillsdon, in Caerarvon Town; John vab
    Madock vab Poel, dwelleth in Lleen, at Bodvel; John Wynne, vab
    Meredith, dwelleth at Gweder, a two bow shots above Llanrwst, on the
    Ripe (Bank) of the Conwy River; Elis vab Morris, at Clennenna, in
    Penmorva Parish, in Comot Hinioneth (Eifionydd).”

Should the stranger not be disposed to accompany us in our Tour round the
Promontory of Lleyn, and to the Island of Bardsey, (which, by the bye, we
hope to render both interesting and amusing), he may proceed from
Carnarvon to Bethgelert, and from thence, along the sea coast, to
Barmouth, by Tremadoc and Harlech; or, from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tan y
Bwlch, Meantwrog, Trawsfynydd, and so by Dol y Melynllyn, and the Cain
and Mawddach Waterfalls to Dolgelley.  The distance from Carnarvon to
Bethgelert is about 12 miles: we proceed up the Hill, by Llanbeblig, (the
Parish Church) then over Pont Peblig Bridge, about half a mile beyond
which, on the left, is Glangwnna, the beautiful and much-admired seat of
Thomas Lloyd, Esq. standing on a fine eminence, between two rivers, at
the western extremity of the Parish of Llanrug; this place, in point of
situation, possesses many natural advantages, and all the improvements
exhibit evident tokens of a judicious mind, and cultivated taste, as it
contains, within its own limits, all the requisites to form a fine
landscape, and has on one side an extensive sea prospect, on the other, a
range of majestic mountains; upon the whole, this is generally considered
as one of the sweetest and loveliest Villas in this part of the
Principality.  On the right, about the same distance from the road, is
Penrhôs, a large, handsome house, lately built by the proprietor, H. R.
Williams, Esq.; it commands a fine view of the Castle, the Menai,
Carnarvon Bay, and the surrounding Scenery.  About three miles farther,
we approach the beautiful little vale of Bettws Garmon, watered by the
river Gwyrfai, the source of which is at the foot of Snowdon, and after
running through Quellyn Lake, and under Pont Newydd Bridge, it empties
itself into the Menai, at Abermenai.  On the right, Mynydd-mawr forms a
striking feature, its top is smooth, but its front is formed into an
immense precipice, retiring inwards in a semicircular shape.  Moel Aelia,
on the left, is another mountain of a stupendous bulk, most regularly
rounded, and of a beautiful verdure; this pass was defended, on one side,
by Castell Cidwm, a great rock at the foot of Mynydd mawr, formerly
fortified, and on the other by a small Fort, the remains of which are
still visible, near Treflan Bettws is a perpetual Curacy; the Church is
very small, and is dedicated to St. Germanus, and the Parish consists
only of six or seven tenements; the corn tithe belongs to the family of
Glyn Llifon; it is in the patronage of the Bishop.  About half a mile
beyond Bettws, near a small mill, Melin Cerrig y Rhyd, commonly called
Nant Mill, is a most beautiful cascade, and a small Arch, without any
Battlements, forming a very singular appearance, of which there is a
view, in Mr. Pennant’s Tour, representing a person on horseback, going
home over this little Bridge, with a load from the mill.  On the left is
Nant Hall, one of the seats of Sir R. Williams, Bart. Member for this
County.—The present lord Viscount Bulkeley is a descendant (by the
mother’s side) of the Rowland’s of this house.—Soon after passing Nant,
the Vale expands with a magnificent view of Snowdon—travel along the side
of Llyn Cawellyn, pass the Snowdon guide’s house, and proceed to the
junction of the Drws y Coed road, near a small Bridge, about a quarter of
a mile beyond Quellyn Lake, and soon after arrive in view of Llynn Cader,
a small round pool on the right, respecting which the Welsh people relate
a ridiculous tale, that a gentleman’s hounds, in former days, started, on
a rock near this Lake, a strange kind of an animal (Aur Frychyn) with
tufts of hair shining like gold, nearly approaching, according to their
representation, to a species of Buffalo, and that he was pursued for some
time and killed, near a place called Nant y lle, and that he bellowed so
loud when taken that the rocks rent.  After travelling about two miles,
we begin to descend towards Bethgelert, and observe, on the right, Moel
Hebog, a lofty conical Hill, which Lord Lyttleton ascended from Brynkir,
when he made the Tour of North Wales.  Bethgelert is a neat little
village, in a romantic situation, between high mountains; here is a good
Inn, surrounded with thriving plantations, built about eighteen years
ago, by Thomas Jones, Esq. of Bryn Tirion, before mentioned.  The Church
is small, and has been Conventual, belonging to a Priory of _Augustines_,
and dedicated to St. Mary.  There is reason to suppose, says Mr. Pennant,
they might have been of that class which was called Gilbertines, and
consisted of both men and women, who lived under the same roof, but
strictly separated from each other by a wall; the cause of his suspicion
is a meadow, near the Church, called Dol y Lleian, the Nun’s meadow.
Bethgelert is supposed to be the most ancient foundation in the Country,
except Bardsey.  Tanner ascribes it to our last Prince, but it must have
been long before his days, there being a recital of a Charter, for
certain Lands bestowed on it, by Llewelyn the Great, who began his reign
in 1194.  It was favored, in the same manner, by other succeeding
Princes; David ap Llewelyn bestowed on it some Lands in Pennant
Gwernogan, belonging to Tudor ap Madoc, to which the Prince had no right;
this occasioned a suit between the sons of Tudor and Philipp, Prior of
the House, before William de Grandison, and R. de Stanedon, at
Caernarvon, when a verdict was given against the Convent.  The Prior had
for his support the Grange of Llecheiddior, in Eifionydd, and part of a
mill; the Grange of Fentidillt, and Village of Gwehelyn; the Grange of
Tre’r Beirdd in Anglesey, one Plough Land, and a certain share of the
bees.  The esteem which these insects were held in by the Ancient
Britons, on account of their producing the nectareous Mead, was so great,
that they considered them as created in Paradise, that when they quitted
it on the fall of man, they were blessed by God himself, and therefore no
Mass ought to be celebrated but by the light of their wax, as we read in
the laws of Howel Dda.  The Prior had, besides, an allowance of fifty
cows and twenty-two sheep; the expences of the house must have been
considerable, for it was on the great road from England and South Wales
to North Wales, and from Ireland to England.  In order to enable this
place to keep up its usual hospitality, after it had suffered in 1283, by
a casual fire, Edward 1st most munificently repaired all the damages; and
Bishop Anian, about the year 1286, for the encouragement of other
benefactors, remitted to all such who truly repented of their sins, forty
days of any penance inflicted on them.  In 1535 it was bestowed by Henry
VIII. on the Abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey, and in 1537, it was given,
with the last, as an Appurtenance to that of Bisham, in Berkshire.  On
the dissolution, the King gave to the family of the _Bodvels_, all the
Lands in Carnarvonshire, which belonged to this Priory, and all those in
Anglesey, to that of the Prydderchs, excepting the Township of Tre’r
Beirdd.  The Revenues of Bethgelert were valued, by Dugdale, at Seventy
Pounds, Three Shillings and Eight-pence; by Speed, at Sixty-nine Pounds,
Three Shillings, and Eight-pence.  Edward Conway is mentioned as last
Prior.  There are no remains at present of the Convent.—Mr. Pennant had
in his possession a drawing of the Seal of the Priory, dated 1531; on it
was the figure of the Virgin and child, but no part of the Legend except
BETHKELE.  Lewis Daron, a Bard of the 15th Century, in a Poem, (the
purport of which is to solicit David the Prior to bestow a fine bay
horse, then in his possession, on John Wynne, of Gwydir, Esq.) extols him
on account of his great learning and liberality.—Hence we are led to
suppose that this Monk was very opulent, and a popular character in his
time.  The ground on the South side of the Church, seems to have been the
spot, says Mr. Williams, late of Llandegai, in his “Observations on the
Snowdon Mountain,” whereon stood the buildings which the Monks formerly
inhabited, and we may discover two or three arched doors, now closed up
on that side of the Church, through which these religious persons
probably entered, when they went to their devotions; there is likewise an
ancient Mansion House, near the Church, which probably was the habitation
of the Prior.  In this house was shewn, some years ago, an old pewter
mug, which will contain two quarts, or more, and was called the
Bethgelert Pint, and any person who could grasp it in one hand, and drink
up the contents, (which was ale) at one draught, was entitled to the
liquor, _gratis_, and the tenant was to charge the value of it to the
Lord of the Manor, as part payment of his rent.  At Bethgelert lie buried
two eminent Bards, Rhys Goch Eryri, and Dafydd Nanmor; the former died
about the year 1420, and it may be inferred, from his writings (many of
which are still extant) that he lived to the great age of 120.  He was a
man of property, and lived at Hafod Garegog, situated beyond Pont
Aberglaslyn, on the road to Tan y Bwlch, and consequently in the County
of Merioneth, though within the limits of this Parish.  The latter
resided at Nanmor, which is also a district of this Parish, on the same
side of the river.  He died about A.D. 1460, and appears to have been a
person of some consequence; they were both learned men, (considering the
age they lived in) as their compositions abundantly testify.

To the N.E. of the village, is the entrance into the beautiful little
Vale of Nant Gwynant, which, though narrow at first, expands and unfolds
its beauties, as the traveller advances; this valley may be considered,
however, as consisting of two portions or divisions, separated by a
narrow defile; at the upper end of the lower vale is Llynn Dinas Emrys,
and just above it, commanding a delightful view of that Lake, the River,
the Woods, Mountains, &c. and particularly of Snowdon, is Plâs Gwynant,
the romantic Summer residence of D. Vaudrey, Esq.  Just below this small
Lake, and nearly in the centre of the Vale, appears the famous Dinas
Emrys, which is a huge insulated rock, clothed with wood, and precipitous
on three sides; on the summit is a large area, but no remains of a
Castle.  On the accessible side are three ramparts of stone, within which
is the ruin of a small stone building, about ten yards long, the walls
without any mortar.  This place is from early times celebrated in British
story, for here

    Prophetic Merlin sat, when to the British King,
    The changes long to come, auspiciously he told.

The legend is thus told: when Vortigern found himself unable to contend
with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had, in the year 449, invited into
Britain, he determined, by the advice of his Magicians, on building an
impregnable fortress in Snowdon.  He collected the materials, which all
disappeared in one night.—The Prince, astonished at this, convened again
his wise men, who assured him his building would never stand, unless it
was sprinkled with the blood of a child, born without the help of a
father; the Realm was ransacked,—at length, one of his emissaries
overheard some boys at play reproach another, and call him an unbegotten
knave.  The child and his mother were brought before the King,—she
confessed he was the offspring of an Incubus.  The boy, whose name was
Merlin, was ordered to be sacrificed, but on confounding all the
Magicians, with his questions, and explaining the cause of the
miscarriage, got his liberty, and

       To that mighty King, who rashly undertook
    A strong wall’d Tower to rear, those earthly spirits that shook
    The great foundation still, in Dragon’s horrid shape
    That dreaming wizzard told, making the mountain gape
    With his most powerful charms, to view those caverns deep
    And from the top of _Brith_, so high and wondrous steep,
    Where Dinas Emrys stood, shewed where the serpent fought,
    The white that tore the red, from whence the Prophet wrought
    The Britons sad decay, then shortly to ensue.

The above is Drayton’s translation of the legend, in his Polyolbion.
Merlin, or Merddin Emrys, or Ambrosius, was in fact the son of a noble
Roman of the same name; his mother, a vestal, to save her life and honor,
invented the fable of his father, which was swallowed by the credulity of
the times.  Merlin, or Myrddin, was an able Mathematician and Astronomer,
and deeply read in all the learning of his age.  The vulgar, as usual,
ascribed all he did to the art of magic, and his discovery, that
Vortigern had begun to found his Castle on a Morass, was immediately said
to have been attended with most portentous circumstances; numbers of
Prophecies were attributed to him, the repetition of which is said to
have been forbidden, by the Council of Trent; however, since it is
certain that Vortigern, after his misfortunes, retired to the Snowdon
Hills, and died not very remote from them, it is possible he might have
selected this for his strong hold, as it is admirably adapted for that
purpose, and nearly fills the streight of the valley, and Merlin
Ambrosius might have given to it the name of Emris.  A place close by,
styled Cell y Dewiniaid, or the Cell of the Div

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