The Overland Guide-book
by active 1837-1839 James Barber · English · Gutenberg #45706 · 394,274 chars · public domain (US)
The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Overland Guide-book
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States,
you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located
before using this eBook.
Title: The Overland Guide-book
Author: active 1837-1839 James Barber
Release date: May 20, 2014 [eBook #45706]
Most recently updated: November 28, 2024
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/45706
Credits: Produced by Chris Curnow and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK ***
Produced by Chris Curnow and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive)
THE
OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK;
A
COMPLETE VADE-MECUM
FOR
THE OVERLAND TRAVELLER,
TO INDIA _viâ_ EGYPT.
BY
CAPTAIN JAMES BARBER, H.C.S.
"GLOSTER--Knowest thou the way?
EDGAR--Both stile and gate, horseway and footway.
Poor Tom shall lead thee.--Take my hand."--SHAKSPERE.
SECOND EDITION.
LONDON:
WM. H. ALLEN AND CO.,
7, LEADENHALL-STREET.
1850.
LONDON:
LEWIS AND SON, FINCH-LANE, CORNHILL.
TO THE
CIVIL AND MILITARY SERVICES
OF
BRITISH INDIA,
THIS WORK IS DEDICATED,
WITH GRATEFUL RESPECT
AND
CORDIAL GOOD WISHES,
BY
THEIR OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT,
THE AUTHOR.
INTRODUCTION.
The purpose of this little volume, which I have now the honour to
submit to the public, is to combine, in a compact and convenient
form, all the information necessary to the prosecution of the journey
Overland to India and _vice versâ_.
Scarcely a day passes that I am not asked, either personally or by
letter, to guide some intending traveller in his arrangements for the
trip, and even to advise him as to the preferable routes, the expense,
the manner of the voyage, &c. Ignorance on all these points induces
inapposite and irrelevant questions; and it is not unusual to find, at
the end of correspondence or a prolonged interview, that the querist is
as far from the possession of the knowledge he desired to acquire as he
was when he first preferred his application. No clear and satisfactory
information can possibly be obtained by a desultory conversation or
fragmentary epistles; hence the value of a systematic and comprehensive
arrangement of all the facts and suggestions pertaining to the subject.
There is another reason why I should put forth this Guide,--it
completes, in a measure--as far, at least, as the great Overland
scheme is in itself complete--my humble labours in the mighty cause of
steam-communication between England and India. For the past fourteen
years, I have earnestly and ardently advocated the accomplishment
of this great object; and, though treated as a vain and visionary
enthusiast, when I have presumed to predict the establishment of a
semi-monthly intercourse (which I did in 1836!), my endeavours never
relaxed, nor did my hope in the least degree abate. I may be pardoned,
therefore, some measure of exultation and self-approval, when, looking
back upon the state of the steam question some years ago, and tracing
its rise and progress through a thousand difficulties and obstructions,
I venture to associate my own zeal and exertions with the triumphant
consummation apparent in the scheme now adopted and carried out by
the "Peninsular and Oriental Company," and the "East India Company,"
not only with the Presidencies of India, but also with our Chinese
possessions.
I laboured long and strenuously; for I could not persuade myself that
British enterprise and public spirit would suffer so obvious a means of
extending commerce and civilisation, and of the approximation of our
vast Indian empire to the seat of its supreme rule, to be neglected.
The great cause _has_ triumphed,--some of my wildest dreams have
become sober realities, and, while I feel grateful for the past, I am
hopeful for the future.
Those who take a prominent and active part in promoting great schemes
of public utility, where doubt and timidity, and envy and selfish
interests are to be combated, must expect to meet with rebuffs and
misrepresentations. Of these evils I have had my share, but I have
also, from time to time, been unexpectedly cheered on the way by
receiving voluntary and public testimonials of unspeakable value,
graciously transmitted through various channels. I may be excused
for publishing the following letter from the present excellent and
much esteemed Bishop of Calcutta, for it displays a truly Christian
spirit,--it grapples comprehensively with the question, and
corroborates the view taken by the late Lord William Bentinck, who
expressed his opinion "that steam-communication with India would be
cheaply bought at any price."
"BISHOPS PALACE, CALCUTTA,
"_22nd of October, 1838_.
"DEAR SIR,
"I should never forgive myself, if I conveyed to you the accompanying
resolution without, at the same time, assuring you of the sincere
gratitude I feel in the bottom of my heart to a gentleman who has
laboured so assiduously, diligently and successfully in one of the
greatest cause that ever interested humanity.
"I can truly say, that the consequences, immediate and remote, of
steam-communication between India and Europe defy calculation. Such a
wonderful adaptation of science is full of 'the seed of things,' as
was said of Lord Bacon's philosophical writings and principles two
centuries since.
"The invention of printing, and the discovery of the mariners'
compass, did not more immediately bear upon the happiness of
mankind. The human family is now indeed approximating, and, by
inter-communication of knowledge, the times may be expected to draw
on, when the illumination of the more prostrate nations will be
borrowed from the most remote and exalted.
"Allow me, sir, to conclude with saying that, not only as a Chairman,
but as a man and a Christian, I have sincere pleasure in transmitting
to you the enclosed resolution, and am
"Your most obedient,
"D. CALCUTTA.
"TO CAPTAIN JAMES BARBER,
"&c., &c., &c."
The journey to and from India, by way of Egypt, is now one of
comparative ease and pleasure; and, as it is my intention to publish
periodically a revised edition of "The Overland Guide Book," I shall
feel grateful to those persons who, from time to time, will communicate
with me on the subject, in order that the best and fullest information
gained by experience may be made available to the traveller who prefers
this route.
JAMES BARBER.
LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.
PAGE
GIBRALTAR 8
ROCK OF DITTO, FROM THE NEUTRAL GROUND 9
MALTA 10
MALTESE PEASANT 22
ALEXANDRIA 24
BOULAC 28
ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS 29
DESERT CARRIAGE 32
ADEN 33
MUSSOOLAH BOAT 45
NILE BOAT 72
THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK.
The communication with India by means of steam-vessels, _viâ_
the Mediterranean and the Red Sea, can no longer be viewed as an
experimental project; the great increase that has taken place in the
number of travellers by this route in a few brief years has distanced
all calculation, and we, therefore, place before the public such facts,
details and suggestions, connected with what is popularly called "_The
Overland Route_," as shall facilitate the performance of the voyage,
from the hour when the resolution to proceed to India or to Europe is
taken, down to that which sees the traveller safely deposited at his
destination.
The sea route round the Cape of Good Hope still has its partisans,
in spite of the tedium, extra risk and absence of all objects of
interest, which necessarily distinguish such a voyage. False notions
of economy, groundless apprehensions, peculiar ideas of comfort and
ancient prejudices, cannot be immediately dissipated, especially when
so many encouragements to their continuance exist in the beautiful
trading-vessels, which offer accommodation to the public, commanded
by gentlemen, whose courtesy and _sçavoir vivre_ are only equalled by
their nautical experience.
Still in this--the comparative infancy of the steam route--nine-tenths
of those whom fortune may carry to India will prefer the most
expeditious manner of proceeding thither; and it, therefore, becomes
in the highest degree important that they should be supplied with the
fullest information, in furtherance of their purpose.
Under this impression, the following pages have been compiled; and,
as we purpose to confine ourselves to useful and practical detail,
the reader is left to seek, in the numberless volumes that have been
published, a more elaborate account of those objects on his route which
he may desire to mark with special attention.
The following division of our subject appears the most convenient for
the object of this publication:--
INSTRUCTIONS AND HINTS TO PASSENGERS TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS,
CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA.
TO BOMBAY.
ROUTES THROUGH FRANCE AND TRIESTE.
FROM INDIA, _viâ_ SYRA, MALTA, MARSEILLES, OR DIRECT TO
SOUTHAMPTON.
MISCELLANEOUS.
THE PASSAGE TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS, CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA.
The "Peninsular and Oriental Company" having contracted with Her
Majesty's government to carry a mail monthly to the above places, also
secure to passengers accommodation along the whole route, at a specific
charge, and, by the same opportunity, drop at Malta or Alexandria
those persons who do not contemplate proceeding any farther.
The steamers remain at Gibraltar six, and at Malta twelve, hours.
The charge for a passage varies according to the accommodation occupied
and the distance to be travelled. On reference to Appendix A, the
reader will find the fullest information, with a list of the Company's
ships and the lines on which they are at present stationed.
As berths in all these steamers vary in comfort as well as price,
persons who have determined to proceed to India or the intermediate
ports, at a particular date, cannot be too early in their application
and choice. On these points every information is most readily and
courteously given at the office of the "Peninsular and Oriental
Company." But if the party going be, from his absence from town
or inexperience in business, under the necessity of employing an
intermediate agent to secure a passage for him, he would do well to
select one thoroughly acquainted not only with the vessels themselves,
but with all that appertains to them.
As a general rule, we may remark that these steamers are liberally
provided with all that passengers can possibly desire. A good table
is kept, and the cabins are comfortably and conveniently fitted, and
sheets, pillow-cases and towels are supplied. It may, however, be as
well to give some precise information as to the possible requirements
of a passenger; for a simple statement of what the steamers _do_
provide scarcely involves a specification of the articles _not_
to be found on board. Let it be stated, then, that there is no
sort of occasion for bed or table-linen, a sofa, wash-hand-stand,
looking-glass, boot-hooks, jugs, tumblers, blacking and brushes, or
those "overland bedsteads" which we see continually advertised; but it
will be prudent to be provided with a large rug, an air pillow, and a
counterpane or _resai_ (wadded coverlet); for it is very probable that,
on getting into a warm latitude, the traveller will prefer sleeping on
deck, and the steamer's bedding is not allowed to be carried from its
place for such purposes.
The steamers leave Southampton on the 20th of each month--provided the
luggage be sent down in due time.[1] Passengers need not leave London
till an early morning train on the day of embarkation. Those who intend
sleeping at Southampton the previous night should bespeak beds. The
vessels are moored alongside the quay in the docks, and the hire of a
truck from the railway to the steamer is one shilling. Flies also are
in constant attendance; in fine weather, however, the distance is an
agreeable ten-minutes' walk or less.
[Footnote 1: _Vide_ James Barber and Co.'s Circular.]
Railway trains from the Waterloo Bridge station to Southampton, in
the morning, at 7·15 o'clock, 10·30 o'clock (mail); afternoon, 1,
3·45, 5 o'clock (express); evening, 30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail
Sunday trains, morning, at 9 o'clock; afternoon, 5 o'clock; evening,
30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail passengers should be at the station at
least a quarter of an hour before the trains start.
Passengers should embark at Southampton not later than 12·30
P.M.
The trunks in which clothes for the voyage may be packed, should
be regulated by the calling or capacity of the traveller. If he be
a military or medical man, and, therefore, liable to much marching
about in India, bullock-trunks, specially made at the outfitters,
are preferable, as they are permanently useful. Passengers are
strongly recommended to adopt trunks or portmanteaus of the following
dimensions, _viz._:--length, 2 feet 3 inches, breadth, 1 foot 2 inches,
depth, 1 foot 2 inches, and to have _their names and the port of
debarkation distinctly painted on each package_. No package or baggage
should exceed 80 lbs. in weight, otherwise it may be delayed in Egypt.
The portmanteaus should be of leather, or material not liable to injury
or breakage in handling.[2]
[Footnote 2: Ladies will find Messrs. Thresher and Glenny's air-tight
cases very useful, even in India. This firm, as general outfitters
for the Overland Route, deservedly stand high, and merit every
encouragement.]
The following are the leading points of the "Peninsular and Oriental
Company's" regulations:--
Passengers not proceeding, after taking berths, will forfeit half the
passage-money. In case, however, of a passenger being unavoidably
prevented from availing himself of a passage at the period for which
it is taken, a transfer of the passage can be effected to a subsequent
steamer, on due notice being given, without forfeiture of any portion
of the deposit paid, and accommodation will be allotted as similar as
circumstances will permit.
On either side of the Isthmus, three cwt. of personal baggage is
allowed to each first-class passenger; but 16s. per cwt. is charged
by the "Egyptian Transit Company" for conveyance through Egypt on all
baggage exceeding two cwt.
In the steamers, children, servants and second-class passengers are
allowed one cwt. and a half each; 16s. per cwt. being charged by the
"Egyptian Transit Company" on all beyond one cwt.
A passenger engaging a whole cabin for the entire voyage, is entitled
to take in the steamer four and a half cwt. of luggage; but is subject
to the charge in Egypt as above stated.
Excess of three cwt. of baggage in the steamer pays freight at the
rate of £1 per cwt., in the Alexandria steamers, and £2 per cwt. in
the India vessels.
Any luggage beyond that allowed _free_ must be put on board and paid
for three days previous to the vessel's departure. Carpet-bags and
hat-boxes only will be received on the day of sailing. The Company
give notice that, all luggage (save as aforesaid) that shall be
shipped on the day of departure will be considered as extra, and
charged for accordingly.
Passengers taking articles of merchandise in their baggage will incur
the risk of seizure by the customs' authorities in Egypt.
The Company do not hold themselves responsible for detention, damage,
or loss of baggage.
As the allowance of baggage is on a liberal scale, and the freight of
parcels moderate, it is hoped that passengers will not convey parcels
or packages belonging to other persons, to the prejudice of the
Company's interests. A contrary course will involve risk, delay and
difficulty at the Egyptian custom-house.
Passengers will be expected to comply strictly with the regulations
established on board the Company's steamers for the general comfort.
In the first instance, a passenger booking from England to Alexandria
only, but who _afterwards_ proceeds from Suez to India in this
Company's steamers, will be required to pay such an additional amount
only as will make up the sum, supposing he had taken his passage right
through from his embarkation in England.
Lights to be put out at half-past ten o'clock, after which, no wines,
spirits, &c., will be supplied, except in cases of illness, when
application is to be made to the purser through the surgeon.
No wines, spirits, or beer, are to be supplied elsewhere than in the
saloons, except in case of illness.
It is to be understood, that a passenger occupying a cabin of two or
more berths, on the departure of the vessel, is not (unless he shall
have paid an additional sum for its exclusive occupation) to object
to the vacant berth being filled up at the intermediate ports, if
required.
If there be any negligence, inattention, or impropriety, on the part
of any of the servants, or any other ground for dissatisfaction,
passengers are particularly requested to give notice immediately to
the commander, who has full authority to act under such circumstances;
and the Company would also wish to receive intimation of the same by
letter, addressed to the secretary.
Although there is positively no restriction as to the quantity of a
passenger's luggage, the excess of that allowed being paid for, still
it is obvious that when a hundred persons are travelling with the speed
of a mail through Egypt, every extra-package becomes an incumbrance,
if not a positive nuisance; for it renders the timely arrival of those
_absolutely required_ very doubtful. It is, therefore, advisable that
passengers should confine themselves strictly to the quantity of
luggage necessary for the trip, sending so much as they may wish to
have in India by the long sea route a month or two previous to their
departure. The adoption of this course will spare them much annoyance
and expense on the journey.
As by the Company's regulation no trunks, boxes or portmanteaus are
allowed in the cabins of their steamers, passengers should provide
themselves with a good-sized leather or carpet-bag, in which should be
packed all the clothes, &c., required for immediate use; and this bag
may be kept in the cabin and replenished from time to time from the
trunks, to which the passengers have access every other day. This bag
should be taken on board with the passenger; but the trunks and other
baggage should be put on board two or three days before sailing.
We have now fairly started with our passengers from Southampton. The
steamer boils and bubbles on her course, and in five days runs to
Gibraltar, sighting the Spanish and Portuguese coasts. The passengers
soon conquer the annoyance of sea-sickness; new acquaintanceships are
rapidly formed; employments and pastimes arranged, and, by the time
"the rock" is reached, the real pleasures of the trip begin to be
fairly appreciated.
GIBRALTAR.--From the title so often given to this pleasant
little port and garrison--"the Rock of Gibraltar,"--the traveller
expects to find a barren, inoccupable mass, as inhospitable to its
friendly visitors as it was unapproachable to our foes; instead of
this, the eye, after entering the bay, is greeted with the sight
of a luxuriant vegetation, distributed into gardens, groves and
plantations. After the visit of the _pratique_ officer, boats approach
the newly-arrived vessel, to take on shore any passenger who may be
disposed to land for a few hours. The club-house and Griffith's Hotel
offer temporary accommodations, and to one or the other the traveller
may betake himself. He soon, however, is tempted, by the brilliancy
of the sky and the warmth of the temperature, to wander abroad, and
inspect the new scene that presents itself. The Commercial Square,
formerly the Grand Parade, offers the first object of attraction.
The sales by auction carried on here all day, draw together a motley
population, whose costumes and physiognomy alone are a study for
the stranger. Greeks, Turks, Jews, Arabs, &c., mingle together in
picturesque confusion. The streets of Gibraltar are narrow, the houses
low, irregular and ill-fashioned; yet are there a few public buildings
worthy of a passing notice. The Exchange, erected during the government
of Sir George Don, the Catholic church of St. Mary, the court-house,
the Moorish castle, within which are some remarkable excavations,
the residence of the governor (which was formerly a convent), the
Protestant church, the garrison and library, are the principal edifices.
[Illustration: GIBRALTAR.]
Gibraltar being but five miles long, the whole place may be seen, on
horseback or in carriages, easily obtainable, in a very brief space.
Proceeding southward, the visitor stops for a moment at South Port,
where, over the gate, he sees the arms of the Emperor Charles V. richly
emblazoned, supported by those of Philip II. Not far from this,
are the Alameda, public walks and grounds tastefully laid out. In the
centre of the gardens is a statue harpooning a fish, which was formerly
the figure-head of a Spanish vessel taken at Trafalgar, and near this,
a column bearing a bronze bust of the Duke of Wellington.
[Illustration: THE ROCK, FROM THE NEUTRAL GROUND.]
Leaving the walks, the next object of interest is San Michael's Cave,
a great natural curiosity. The whole rock (Calpe) is hollowed out and
perforated by caves. The fantastic forms assumed by the stalactites
give these recesses the appearance of work done by ingenious human
hands. Martin's Cave, not far from San Michael's, corresponds in
character with, but is smaller in dimensions than, the latter. The
wild monkeys that inhabit the place afford much entertainment by their
freaks. Extending the ride to Windmill Hill, we reach the Governor's
cottage, built by General Fox as a summer residence. It is pleasantly
situated close to the sea. From this the ride may be extended to
Europa Point, Rosia, in the vicinity of which is the Naval Hospital,
capable of holding 400 patients. From Rosia along the whole range of
the western side to Sand Port is a continuation of works, batteries and
bastions.
As the period of the steamer's detention (six hours) will scarcely
enable the visitor to see more than the above, we do not think it
necessary to extend our description. We will merely add, as a guide to
those who are inclined to make purchases on shore, that accounts are
kept in dollars, reals, &c., but English weights and measures are in
use.
After quitting Gibraltar, steaming along the coast of Algiers, you soon
reach the famed island of Malta, where the outward-bound coming free
from the imputations of plague, which cover the homeward passenger, are
at liberty at once to go on shore and see the "lions" of the place.
If the period chosen by the traveller for his voyage should admit of
his reaching Malta between November and April, he will be enabled to
regale on oranges, for which fruit the island is much celebrated. Other
fruits, such as strawberries, figs, pomegranates, grapes, apples,
pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, melons and prickly pears,
are likewise to be had then. The climate of Malta is agreeable enough
to tempt the visitor to prolong his stay, and, indeed, in the instance
of pulmonary and other complaints, the atmosphere has often been found
most serviceable. Its salubrity may be judged of from the fact of the
range of the thermometer being remarkably equable; seldom falling below
50° in the month of January, or rising above 88° during the summer
months.
[Illustration: MALTA.]
The most remarkable edifices in Malta are the churches and the
Albergas; which latter are now converted into public offices or
other establishments of a useful nature. Their exterior denotes the end
of their construction and the various sections of Knights of St. John,
under whose auspices and for whose purposes they were raised.
These Albergas are now appropriated to government offices; one is
occupied by the Malta Union Club, two others as courts of law, a fourth
as the Civil Arsenal and Government Printing Office. The Auberge
(or Alberga) de Castile is occupied by the officers of the English
garrison; the Commissary-General tenants the Auberge de France--and so
on.
The church of St. John holds the first rank among the numerous churches
and convents of Malta. The interior is of an oblong form; the uppermost
part, which forms the choir, is ornamented with an admirable piece
of sculpture in white marble, on a raised base, representing the
baptism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as large as life. The
semicircular roof which covers the nave is adorned with paintings
illustrative of the life of the above-mentioned apostle. The pavement
is composed of sepulchral slabs worked in mosaic with various-coloured
marble; many of them contain jasper, agate, and other precious stones,
the cost of which must have been very great. These cover chiefly the
graves of the knights and other servants of the order. The grand altar,
which stands at the uppermost part of the nave, is very sumptuous,
and deserves notice, on account of the various-coloured marble and
other valuable stones of which it is constructed. The chapels of the
different languages of the order, which run parallel with the nave,
form the two aisles, and are very splendidly decorated. The roofs are
constructed in the shape of a dome in the interior, and are profusely
carved with different ornaments in alto-relievo, as also are the
walls. The whole was gilded during the reigns of Rafael and Nicolas
Cotoner, as appears from an inscription over the entrance on the west
side of the building. The arches of these chapels correspond on both
sides, and leave their interior quite exposed to view, as you pass down
the nave. The second arch covers the chapel of the Portuguese knights.
Over the altar is a drawing of St. James; and on the side-walls are two
other paintings, representing some traditionary scenes in the life of
that apostle.
Besides the church already mentioned, there are three others in the
city, which belong to the Government: viz., the Church of the Jesuits
in Strada Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marina, and St. Rocco in Strada
St. Ursola. The church of Di Liesse belonged to the Knights of France.
The walls of this building are adorned with gifts devoted to the
Virgin; the fulfilment of vows made in time of affliction, in order
to obtain her commiseration. The boatmen hold this church in peculiar
veneration.
The two parish churches of the city are those of St. Domenico and St.
Paolo; the former is connected with a monastery of Dominican friars;
the latter is a collegiate church, situated in the street of the
same name. The other monkish orders are those of the Augustinians,
Carmelites, Franciscans, and the _Minori Osservanti_, or Reformed
Franciscans, all of which have churches connected with their respective
convents. Besides these, there are two large nunneries, one of Ursoline
and the other of Sta. Catarina nuns; but the rage for this species of
seclusion has very much subsided in Valetta. The former establishment
is nearly empty, and the latter is receiving but very few additions.
Two other churches in the city, one dedicated to Sta. Lucia and the
other called Delle Anime (of the Souls in Purgatory), belong to the
public. The Greek Catholics have also a small chapel, dedicated to
Sta. Maria, in Strada Vescovo. By far the finest specimen of modern
architecture is the Protestant church, built at the charge of Queen
Adelaide, who sojourned for a short time at Malta.
Next to the churches are the Military Hospital, the Monte di Pietá, the
Government University, the public and garrison libraries (the building
containing these being one of the finest specimens of architecture
in the whole town), the Castellaria, the theatre and the Banco dei
Guirati. There are several antiquities in the public library, together
with periodicals and newspapers. The Indian files received at this
library will enable the outward-bound passenger to obtain later
information of the state of affairs abroad, than he might have had when
leaving England.
The traveller who sojourns a few hours only in Malta, after walking
in the streets of Valetta, or looking through the imposing defences
which surround it on every side, over the apparently arid or sun-burnt
undulations of the island, frequently abandons all further interest
in the spot--singular by nature and art--and reposes quietly on the
information of some writer possessing little more actual knowledge
of the island, but who may have furnished his readers with some
highly-coloured descriptions of its early history, or dilated on the
chivalrous bearing of its late masters, the Knights of St. John of
Jerusalem. Without wading through these literary labours to discover "a
grain of millet in a bushel of chaff," we merely desire to introduce
to the sojourner an agreeable mode of spending a few leisure hours in
visiting other portions of the island. By reference to a map, he will
find little difficulty in wending his way to any part of it; he may
pass from one extremity to the other without a chance of molestation
or interruption, other than the occasional application for alms; for
Malta has professional and other beggars in abundance, the result of
an overwhelming population in proportion to the size and resources of
the island and the thoughtlessness of marriages, contracted frequently
without a prospect of supporting a family.
Passing out at Porte Reale--the gateway at the top of the principal
street of Valetta--and crossing the draw-bridge, the stupendous
defences of the city become apparent--deep ditches--every approach
enfiladed, or covered by bastions surmounted with bristling cannon.
From this portion of the works the road opens on the front of the
public garden;[3] a narrow promenade, of considerable extent, confined
between stone walls, on the esplanade between Valetta and the extensive
suburb of Floriana, around which are thrown the outer defences of the
city, extended like the former, from the great harbour on the east to
the quarantine harbour on the west. Holding on the main road, to the
left of the garden gate, we pass through Floriana, the gate of St. Anna
(the inner gate of this line of defence), and by Porte des Bombes,
reach the glacis of the works, and here commences the country of the
island of Malta.
[Footnote 3: During the governorship of Sir Alex. Ball, public gardens
for the accommodation or pleasure of the inhabitants of the various
"casals" were formed, but fell into disuse, and remain a trifling
memorial of a desire to inculcate good and friendly feelings in all
classes, and has been responded to by these places being totally
neglected for public use.]
Three main roads conduct to the different villages or casals, some
twenty-three in number, besides the hamlets of Pietá, Sliema, San
Guiliana and Casal Paola. The road to the right (leading to the
western end of the island), keeping the foot of the glacis, opens on
the Pietá, one of the most imposing spots in Malta, with a pretty
extensive row of houses, generally good, extending for about a mile
on the bank of the quarantine harbour. At about a mile farther on is
the populous and large casal of Bircharcara, containing some five or
six thousand inhabitants. From the immediate extremity of the Pietá
(without proceeding on to Bircharcara), a road to the right, over a
small stream, leads to Sliema and San Guiliana, the resort of those
who pursue sea-bathing and seek a summer residence in the country,
and containing many good houses. Passing through the last-mentioned
hamlet, a road (inclining to the left) leads down to Casal Bircharcara,
and a carriage may go over the whole ground safely. From the eastern
or extreme end from the church of Bircharcara, there are two roads,
that to the west, of some two miles extent, to Nasciar, and hence
to the right to Casal Gargur, but a casal of no particular interest
and road indifferent; after passing by the front of the church, or
rather round the greater portion of it, a road to the left conducts
to San Pauls Bay, where St. Paul is said to have been ship-wrecked.
The view from the high ground, after passing Nasciar, and overlooking
a line of defence against the approach of an enemy, on this otherwise
apparently natural barrier, is, perhaps, one of the best and most
striking in the island, embracing the western extremity even to the
island of Gozo, with St. Paul's Bay and its tower quietly reposing
in the valley. The distance to St. Paul's Bay from Valetta is about
eight miles, and the road good even for carriages.[4] About four miles
farther on from St. Paul's Bay, and presenting more hill and dale
than may be found in the general features of the island, you arrive
at Melleha, where the devotees of both sexes resort. There is nothing
particularly interesting in this spot, encircled by deep ravines
and sterile rock; but, with some gardens in its vicinity, stands a
small church (pretty liberally stored with votive offerings), with a
court-yard, surrounded by small cells or chambers, to which the devout
repair, and occupy, as choice, occasion or their vow may dictate.
Beyond this point, some four miles leads to Mafra, the usual ferry
to Gozo; but the only carriage that could undertake this portion of
the road must be a calesse--deep sand from the Bay of Melleha and a
road intersected by rock being the means of approach. Returning back
to Nasciar, and coming in front of the church, a street leads on to
the right to the casal of Musta, having nothing remarkable in it but
a colossal church (encircling the old village church), which has been
some years in the course of building, and, in respect to the progress
had in its construction, may never be finished.[5] Passing through this
casal (but avoiding the turning to the right over a well-constructed
bridge, crossing one of the numerous ravines in the island, for that
would only lead to an uninteresting part of the island, that in olden
times was designated on the maps "desert," and is now almost without
population), along a narrow road or lane, of trifling extent, across
a rivulet, and on a road leading directly to the western point of the
Binzamma, the most elevated and conspicuous portion of the island,
the road is again covered by a line of defence; beyond this, it winds
round the Binzamma, and, taking the turn to the left, one of the
natural curiosities of the island, as it is pointed out, will be found
in a nest of caves called "Ancient Tombs," now inhabited by some poor
families employed in agriculture in the vicinity.[6] An indifferent
road from this point leads to Citta Vecchia; but, as it possesses no
interest, and can be traversed only by the equestrian, we turn back to
Casal Musta; immediately, therefore, in front of the new church, is the
street or road leading, on the left, to Casal Sia (San Antonio, with
its gardens, of which we will speak hereafter), through this casal and
Casal Bazan, between which the line of demarkation is scarcely apparent
to the stranger, we come back to Bircharcara at the point where the
road turned off to Nasciar, and, either by ascending to the main road,
between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, diverging to the right, or passing
through Bircharcara and the Pietá, we return to Valetta. On the other
hand, leaving Musta, as before directed, and inclining to the right,
a road leads to Citta Vecchia, the great point of attraction to the
generality of travellers who visit Malta. But of that hereafter.
[Footnote 4: A calesse, the common carriage of Malta, a sort of
Brobdingnag imitation of a Dutch toy, can travel anywhere; but
those who wish to see the country must adopt some other conveyance.
Fortunately, under the government of Lieut.-General Sir F. Bouverie,
such attention was paid the roads in the island--a source of advantage
to the population, in every point of view, and the public in
general--that where, some twenty years ago or less, only two or three
carriages on four wheels, the property of private individuals, could be
found, they are now in pretty general use, and may be had on hire.]
[Footnote 5: Casal Musta was singularly enough selected, by the
commissioners of inquiry sent out to Malta in 1837, in reporting on the
liberty of the press and the adoption of a newspaper--that it contained
upwards of 5,000 inhabitants, of whom not more than 50 could read!]
[Footnote 6: This sketch is intended simply as a guide to the
superficial observer, on a few hours' detention in the island, and
in no way with a view to geological disquisition. However, without
any speculative theories, regarding the origin and present state of
Malta--whether it arose by some convulsive throe from the ocean which
surrounds it, or that the Mediterranean Sea, from remote causes, has
lost its former elevation, being now found considerably below the level
of the Red Sea, it may be mentioned, without dread of refutation, that
these caverns, like numerous others in the island, show the water
line at the period of their formation, as those under the black rock
and the southern face especially. A recent writer on the statistics,
&c., of the island of Malta and its dependencies, who visited Valetta,
and knew little of Malta, informs his readers, that Malta is furrowed
with what he designates valleys from S.W. to N.E.--following out the
assertions of another and former resident in Malta--that the course of
the various ravines was from west to east, as if to render subservient
to geological theories, the mode or order in which Malta must have been
formed; yet the slightest observation (which neither had exercised)
proves these ravines to embrace each of the cardinal, and, perhaps,
not less the subsidiary, points of the compass. In like manner, this
writer on the statistics states very boldly that the island of Gozo
has villages but _no town_; Rubatto has its cathedral, numerous
churches, religious establishments, with its imposing citadel for
defence, occupying considerable extent of ground, and with a population
exceeding 7,000 souls, and to which the late governor, Sir F. Bouverie,
added an aqueduct, for a more certain supply of water. Mr. Martin never
visited Gozo, and this, like other portions of his work, is merely
gathered from report.]
The centre and principal road in Malta, proceeding as before from
Porte des Bombes, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, is a spacious and
well-kept road (like all others in the island), without turnpike trusts
or imposts on the traveller. To the archway of the aqueduct, a distance
of two miles, it may be considered the great suburb of a rich city.
Here are various houses of noble aspect on the road, near the archway
of the aqueduct-one called "the Lions"--from two effigies in stone of
that sovereign of the forest, placed over the entrance; this the late
governor, Sir F. Bouverie, selected as his country-house, in preference
to the more imposing and regal residence of St. Antonio.
From the archway of the aqueduct (under which passes the main road
to Citta Vecchia) the view now on either side, excepting only some
casals in the distance, presents barren and uninteresting fields, so
surrounded and intersected by stone walls, that it appears difficult
to determine to what end these enclosures were erected, except before
the opening of spring, when the lucerne with its dark green leaves and
beautiful red flower over-topping the walls, convinces the passenger
of the fertility of the soil. At about the fourth or fifth mile from
Valetta, a road to the right leads to Santa Louisa and the gardens,
unlike any other place in Malta. In the style and taste of the day,
in which it was formed by the Grand Master, here are well-paved
walks, terraces and flights of steps, with ponds or reservoirs, and
water-works, on a small scale--art subduing nature, but apparently
appropriately designed for its position. This has ever been accessible
to strangers, either by a ticket of admission from the military
secretary or aide-de-camp; and, under some governorships, even without
that precaution. Leaving San Antonia and regaining the main road, you
pass through Casal Attard,--a small casal with some good houses in it,
but of gloomy appearance as compared with other casals.
From hence all is barren to the eye, until in the immediate
neighbourhood of Citta Vecchia, where the fields appear more natural
and to greater advantage. As you ascend the hill, you will find more
guides from the idlers of the place, probably, than guests, who insist
on giving their assistance where it is little required. Within the
citadel is the cathedral, a very handsome church; without, is the
suburb, properly _Rabbato_; you are shown the cave where St. Paul is
said to have resided, a poor compliment to the hospitality of the
inhabitants, for a more wretched place can scarcely be conceived. The
church over this cave is like most of the churches of the island.
Here also you are shown the catacombs, as these caverns are called;
you descend by a flight of rude steps, but, were they well explored,
an outlet on the level would, doubtless, be found, to determine their
origin, like others of a similar character. Tradition offers many tales
concerning them; but it may be left to conjecture, whether they were
the habitation of saints, or the retreat of the peaceful inhabitants of
the island, from the predatory visits of their Arab neighbours.
To the right of Citta Vecchia, an indifferent road of three or four
miles leads to some gardens. Imtaklip is of no other particular
interest than an occasional resort of parties from Valetta for a
_pic-nic_. To the left, however, a good road, after passing a large
convent, and still inclining to the left, is the Castle or Palace
Verdali, of imposing appearance, but tenantless, and going to decay;
below, in the valley, is the Boschetta, covered with pretty extensive
groves of orange trees, the only truly agreeable retreat in the island,
and almost daily resorted to by pleasure parties. There is a very small
but uninteresting casal to the right of the road to the Boschetta.
The return to Valetta, in the most direct way, may be made by the
same road; otherwise, after ascending the hill from the Boschetta,
as far on the road as the Palace Verdali, a road branches off to the
right, leading through the Casal Seggui; hence to Zettug, one of the
largest and most populous in the island; and, descending the hill by
a good road on the way to Casal Curmi, you have an extensive view
of the surrounding country, embracing Valetta, the harbour, &c., in
the distance. Casal Curmi, a large casal situated in the valley, has
nothing particular to recommend it to the notice of the traveller;
passing to the left through it, you ascend the hill to the arch of the
aqueduct, and by the main road enter Valetta.
Starting as before from Porte des Bombes, at a short distance on the
main road, a road branches off to the left, and winds round the head
of the great harbour; hold the road to the right; after passing the
fishermen's huts, the road leads through the Marsa--a tract, to the
superficial observer, the most cultivated in Malta; _ascend the hill_
and Casal Luca, and about a mile after passing through the casal, at
a small chapel, two roads branch off, the one to the right to Casal
Michabiba; hence to Casal Creude, in the immediate neighbourhood of
which is to be seen Macluba, the landslip, or, in whatever other way
it may be designated; and, ascending the hill from the chapel close
by, and bearing away to the right, you arrive at some mile and a half
distance, at the rude remains of a Phoenician temple, recently
explored. Returning back to Crendi, and at about the middle of the
casal, a road to the right leads to Casal Zurrico, standing out rather
conspicuously, from its site and size (the road to the left from
the small chapel, on the road from Casal Luca, mentioned before, is
the direct road from Valetta to Casal Chercof, a small village, and
Casal Zurrico); passing out of Casal Zurrico, close by the eastern
side of the church (the road to the left, in front of the church,
leads to Casal Luca, mentioned before), you arrive at Casal Gudia; at
the end nearest Valetta is a substantial mansion, with well-walled
grounds, a fanciful tower, &c. During the blockade, when the French
were in possession of Valetta, this was the head-quarters of General
Graham, afterwards Lord Lynedock, commanding the British Forces. A
windmill at the corner of the mansion marks two roads; that to the
right leading through Casal Ascheach to Casal Zeitun: the latter one
of the best casals in the island. The procession of St. Gregorico, on
Easter Wednesday, at which the greater portion of the population of
the island attends, terminates at this casal: one other casal in this
direction, Casal Zalbar, a short distance from the Cottonnera lines,
which encircle or cover the three cities, is somewhat out of the line
of march, and had better be visited in connection with the Government
works on the opposite side of the great harbour, including the three
cities, and the Cottonnera lines, from which this casal is a trifling
distance. We, therefore, turn down the street immediately facing the
grand entrance to the Church of Zeitun, containing numerous excellent
houses, and, following a good road of brief extent, arrive at Casal
Tarscien, from thence onwards to the hamlet of Casal Bala, denominated
by the English the "Deserted Village;" turning to the left, at the end
nearest Valetta, and passing by the _front_ of the new prison, a good
road leads down and communicates with the road first taken, on the way
to Casal Luca; here the traveller may either enter Valetta by Porte des
Bombes, or, holding on the great harbour, pass along the Marina, and
so enter Valetta by the ordinary road on landing at Malta.
[Illustration: A MALTESE PEASANT.]
The traveller may refer to the GUIDE BOOK at Malta for other
places considered of importance; but as they are remote, like the
Cave of Ben Isan, &c., their route is omitted here. There has been no
attempt to describe places, or, indeed, distances, accurately; but,
with the exception of the first route to Matra, the most remote casals
are not more than six or seven miles at the utmost from Valetta, and
a reference to the map at Malta will show the position and bearing of
others less remote.
As a hint to travellers, especially those on horseback, who may
consider this brief sketch a sufficient guide for an excursion, we
may mention that they will find in every casal some idlers, who will
insist on knowing where they are going better than themselves, and will
mislead accordingly, by directing strangers to the only two points
within the sphere of their knowledge or comprehension--Valetta or Citta
Vecchia.
Between Malta and Alexandria there is no point of interest worthy of
any notice; in fact, land is seldom sighted during the four days' trip.
ALEXANDRIA.--We now arrive at this port.
[Illustration: ALEXANDRIA.]
For the guidance of the traveller in Egypt, we cannot give better
directions than are supplied in the annexed letter from Mr. Davidson,
the representative of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company," a
gentleman, whose courtesy, kindness and attention to all travellers
passing through that country are universally admitted. Mr. Davidson
repairs on board immediately the vessel arrives at Alexandria, and
superintends all the arrangements for the whole journey thence to Suez.
He writes thus:--
"The carpet-bag, containing the traveller's necessaries for three
days in Egypt, he should keep charge of, and take to the hotel on
arrival in the omnibus, or, if he ride, make the donkey-boy carry it
with him, and the same on leaving the hotel for the boat. The other
luggage he must leave, after seeing it on the steamer's deck, to be
landed and transported in the luggage-lighter alongside, in charge of
the transit-clerk, to whom he should hand a list of the same. These
he will, perhaps, hear or see nothing of until he reaches Cairo, where
they are exposed, before dispatched to Suez, for recognition, in the
British Hotel yard. It is understood that the passenger sees to his
carpet-bag, on changing boats at Atfeh and on arrival at Cairo, where
it is given up and sent on camels, with the other luggage, after
he has taken out the necessary articles[7] for use in crossing the
desert, which are expected not to exceed five pounds' weight to each
passenger in the carriage.
[Footnote 7: We recommend ladies to provide themselves with a basket
having a cross handle and two flaps, as the most convenient to hold
their desert requirements.]
"Landing at Alexandria, the passenger will find three good hotels,
situated in the grand square, about two miles from Mahoram Bey's,
that part of the Mahmoudie canal where the passengers embark on board
commodious boats, to be towed up to Atfeh (a distance of forty-eight
miles) by powerful steam-tugs. The names of the hotels are "Hotel de
l'Europe," "d'Orient" and "de Suisse." The rates of charges at all are
piastres forty, or 8s. per diem, for board and lodging, exclusive
of wines, beer and spirits. Those who prefer living _à la Francaise_,
will give a preference to the Hotel d'Orient. At the other hotels the
style of entertainment is more English.
"The extra charge, at 16s. the 112 lbs., for over-weight luggage
(two cwt. being allowed to first and one cwt. to second-class
passengers) is collected at the transit-office at Cairo, on exchanging
tickets, and takes place there, in order to check the passengers
proceeding beyond or remaining at this station.
"At Suez the luggage is embarked in the boat which takes the passenger
off; and here he should see it again."
As the transition from heat to cold in crossing the desert is great,
the range of the temperature varying from 94° in the shade at noonday
to 72° at night, in the summer months, it is indispensable that
travellers should be provided with warm clothing; and too great
precaution cannot be taken to avoid exposure to the night air.
Taking this matter into consideration, we subjoin a thermometrical
register recently kept in Egypt, which may be of service alike to the
passing traveller and those who purpose sojourning for awhile in that
country.
As the passage through Egypt _en route_ to India differs but little,
whether the traveller be hound to Calcutta or Bombay, we add to this
division of our subject a short account of the only portion of the
journey which can truly be called "Overland."
STAY AT ALEXANDRIA.--A delay of about three to four hours
occurs at Alexandria, in examining the luggage at the custom-house
and loading the boats with it. During this time the traveller may, if
so disposed, pay a visit to Cleopatra's Needle, Pompey's Pillar, and
the Pacha's palace and arsenal; all of which may easily be reached on
donkeys or in carriages in less than two hours, and at a very trifling
cost.
The boats being ready, the whole party again assemble, and, embarking
at the Mahmoudie canal, reach Atfeh in about ten hours, where the
passengers are trans-shipped to the Nile steamers, and perform the
trip to Cairo, 120 miles, in 16 or 20 hours, according to the depth of
water in the Nile. The boat stops at Boulac, two miles distant from
Cairo, to which place some walk, whilst others ride; carriages, horses
and donkeys being prepared, and in waiting. There are several hotels
in Cairo, the "British," "Oriental," and "English," the character and
accommodation of each of which will be most accurately learned on
reference to Mr. Davidson, to whom we have previously alluded.
[Illustration: BOULAC.]
ABSTRACT _of a Thermometrical Register, kept at Alexandria, in
N. lat. 31° 13', outdoor temperature, in the shade, for one whole year_.
Table Headings:
Col M1: Mean temperature.
Col M2: Mean daily variation.
Col M3: Mean maximum.
Col M4: Mean minimum.
Col M5: Mean temperature at 8 A.M.
Col M6: Mean temperature at noon.
Col M7: Difference of mean temperature of each successive month.
Col E1: Extreme daily variation.
Col E2: Extreme monthly variation.
Col E3: Extreme maximum.
Col E4: Extreme minimum.
+------------+----------------------------------+-------------------+
| | MEANS. | EXTREMES. |
| +----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+
| MONTHS | M1 | M2 | M3 | M4 | M5 | M6 | M7 | E1 | E2 | E3 | E4 |
+------------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+
|January |59·5| 8·0|63·5|55·5|57·6|61·0| 3·0| 8 | 13 | 66 | 53 |
|February |59·5| 6·0|62·5|56·5|57·4|60·6| 0·0| 9 | 10 | 66 | 56 |
|March |64·7|10·5|70·0|59·5|61·1|63·6| 5·2| 5 | 13 | 72 | 59 |
|April |69·0|12·0|75·0|63·0|66·4|69·2| 4·3| 12 | 15 | 77 | 62 |
|May |74·7|16·5|83·0|66·5|71·7|74·6| 5·7| 13 | 22 | 88 | 66 |
|June |77·0| 9·0|81·5|72·5|74·6|77·3| 2·3| 5 | 14 | 85 | 71 |
|July |82·5| 4·5|82·5|78·0|78·5|80·7| 5·5| 5 | 8 | 85 | 77 |
|August |81·2| 7·5|85·0|77·5|79·5|80·6| 1·3| 6 | 10 | 87 | 77 |
|September |79·7| 6·5|83·0|76·5|78·4|80·1| 1·5| 8 | 9 | 84 | 75 |
|October |76·7| 7·5|80·5|73·0|76·1|77·8| 3·0| 8 | 9 | 81 | 72 |
|November |68·7|12·5|75·0|62·5|66·3|71·6| 8·0| 12 | 18 | 76 | 58 |
|December |60·7|17·5|69·5|52·0|58·5|64·3| 8·0| 20 | 25 | 71 | 46 |
+------------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+
|Annual Means| | | | | | | | | | | |
|and Extremes|71·1| 9·8|75·9|66·0|68·8|71·7| 3·9| 20 | 25 | 88 | 46 |
+------------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+
The seasons of the year to which the foregoing Table refers, it may be
well to explain, were peculiarly moderate, the Thermometrical range
varying less than in ordinary seasons.
The average heat at Cairo will exceed that at Alexandria by about 10
degrees all the year round. This is accounted for by the prevailing
sea-breeze at Alexandria. The atmosphere at the latter is peculiarly
humid; at the former peculiarly dry and elastic. Rains prevail in
December and January; they are very rare at Cairo.
The luggage is conveyed to Suez on dromedaries, and, as these animals
travel slowly, those who do not desire to proceed to Suez by the first
division of carriages across the desert, will have sufficient time to
visit the lions of Cairo, which consist of the citadel, the palace, the
mint, the petrified forest, the Rhoda garden (chiefly botanical), the
Pyramids of Gizeh, and the Pacha's palace and gardens at Shubra; or
they may indulge in a bath, a luxury thus described in an article in
the _Asiatic Journal_, by Mr. Stocqueler:--
"A bath at Cairo, after a voyage, is an _agrémen_ which few will deny
themselves. It is neither as elaborate nor as effective an affair
as a Persian bath, but, like Mercutio's wound, 'it will _do_.' The
soft coir, or fibrous matter, which is used instead of flannel or
the hair-glove, is not by any means as efficacious as the latter in
removing the sodden matter, or _papier maché_, which covers the human
cuticle. Then there is neither shampooing, nor joint-cracking, nor
mustachio-dyeing; nevertheless, it is pleasant to _get into hot water_
after a month's exclusion from the indulgence, even though some of the
accessories to the hummaum be wanting."
Of the manner in which the ascent of the Pyramids is made, the
following sketch furnishes an accurate description:--
[Illustration: THE ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS.]
A recent writer, describing this laborious operation, speaks of
it thus:--"It is advisable, if bent on mounting to the summit,
to disencumber yourself of all but your shirt and a pair of loose
trousers; for the journey upwards must be taken rapidly, and cannot
easily be accomplished with warm and tight clothing. A couple of Arabs
leap on to the stones immediately above you, and offer you each a hand,
while a third follows, to give you an impetus from behind, and catch
you, in case of a slip. Up you go, panting and toiling, step after step
(each three feet in height) and stopping occasionally to take breath,
and receive the cheering congratulations of your rude guide--_good,
good, Inglese, berry good!_ and then, with an impatient grin and
extended hand, '_Baksheesh!_'"
We now come to the Overland part of the journey; viz., from
CAIRO TO SUEZ.[8]
[Footnote 8: The following extract from the last report of the
Peninsular and Oriental Company, may not be without interest to our
readers--showing, as it does, that efforts have recently been made to
improve the desert-transit. We should premise, that Sir John Pirie
proceeded to Egypt as the bearer of an address to the new Viceroy.
"His Highness the Pacha received Sir John with marked distinction and
courtesy, and readily acquiesced in every suggestion made to him for
the improvement of the transit; and His Highness was moreover pleased
to declare, that the increased expense consequent thereupon would be
of secondary consideration to the perfecting the transit through his
country.
"His Highness has authorised the directors to order for his account
one additional steam-vessel for the Nile, to be fitted with all the
improved accommodation which experience suggests; also two paddle-wheel
steamers for the Mahmoudie Canal. These canal boats will be devoted to
the conveyance of passengers only, and the baggage will be conveyed
in future by track-boats. These two steamers will be a most important
addition and improvement to the canal transit, which has hitherto been
considered the most inconvenient part of the journey; and they will
accordingly be fitted in the most commodious manner, and sent out with
the utmost dispatch.
"A small steamer, now building at Boulac, will shortly be placed at
Suez, for the embarkation and landing of passengers and baggage from
the India steamers, which will be productive of great comfort and
convenience.
"A considerable improvement has already been effected in the landing
and embarkation of passengers and baggage at Alexandria; and commodious
storehouses have also been erected there, and at the Mahmoudie Canal.
"The occasional difficulties and delays at Atfeh will, in future, be
avoided, by the intended erection of a jetty and landing-place there;
but, in most cases, the new canal steamers will pass through the locks,
and go alongside the Nile steamers, and the change from one to the
other will thus be easily and conveniently effected. The navigation
of the canal is to be improved by deepening, for which object, three
dredging machines are now in operation."]
The distance (ordinarily accomplished in about twenty hours, including
stoppages) from Cairo to Suez is eightyfour miles, and along the route
through the desert there are seven station-houses. These station-houses
are numbered from 1 to 7, and contain the following accommodation:--
No. 1. Nine miles from Cairo, stabling and a resting-room.
No. 2. Twenty miles from Cairo, contains two public rooms (one for
ladies, and the other for gentlemen), two private rooms, and a
servants' room.
No. 3. Thirty miles from Cairo, stabling for relays of horses, with one
resting-room.
No. 4. Forty-one miles from Cairo, the centre station, contains a
large saloon, a ladies' room, servants' room, kitchen, a number of
commodious bed-chambers, large water-tank, stabling, &c. Here, also,
will be found, liberally provided, those "creature comforts," which
so essentially cheer and sustain the traveller on his way. Ladies,
however, would do well to take in their basket, on leaving the steamer,
a bottle of good water.
No. 5. Thirty miles from Suez, stabling and a resting room.
No. 6. Twenty miles from Suez, two public rooms, private rooms, and
servants' rooms. The same as No. 2.
No. 7. Nine miles from Suez, stabling and resting-room.
[Illustration: DESERT CARRIAGE.]
[Illustration: ADEN.]
The whole distance is traversed without inconvenience, in carriages,
on horseback, on chairs, or on donkeys; the latter a very superior
animal to those in this country. The Egyptian ass is easy in his pace,
capable of great fatigue, and, it is said, will perform the whole
distance with but little provender.
Travellers now embark on board the Peninsular and Oriental Company's
steamer, and, as soon as the luggage has been shipped, and every other
arrangement made, the anchor is weighed, and the steamer starts for
Aden. Beyond certain historical associations, the Red Sea presents
little that can interest the traveller in his brief and expeditious
trip. The shores are dreary and barren, and are only agreeable
to the eye of the landsman, because they present a somewhat less
monotonous scene than the expanse of "blue above and blue below," which
distinguishes the ocean in parts remote from land.
ADEN, which was formerly called "Portus Romanicus," is a town
of the Yemen, which, from its position, and now, on account of its
recent occupation by the English, promises to become a commercial and
military station of great importance. The town is built on the crater
of an exhausted volcano, and is situate at the extremity of a small
peninsula, formed of volcanic matter, and attached to the continent
solely by a low neck of land from 500 to 600 yards wide, and which
might be easily isolated by a canal. The harbour is a magnificent
basin, capable of containing an immense fleet; and is entered by a
narrow passage between two other craters. It would be easy to establish
defensive works on the rocks, which would place the fort in safety
against any attack. One redoubt has been already raised, as a security
against the Arabs, ever ready to attack the English. From this point
to the gate of the town has been traced a road of about a league in
length, by which the defile is reached that forms the entrance to
Aden. This defile is being fortified with a gate, evidently constructed
to resist other attacks than those of the Arabs, and is about 100 yards
long, and four or five wide; it is cut out of a rock which stands 150
yards above the level of the sea. A formidable battery, commanding the
entrance, is in process of being erected above the rock on the left
of the defile. A covered way, with an arch thrown from one rock to
another, unites the system of defence which the batteries on the summit
of the rocks on the left will complete.
In despite of sickness and desolation, the population of Aden has
greatly augmented in a short space of time. When first occupied, the
population did not exceed 4,000; it is now upwards of 30,000; and
every morning at daybreak 50 to 200 camels may be seen coming into the
town, laden with the produce of the interior, provisions, vegetables,
&c., to console and comfort the otherwise benighted occupants of this
extinguished crater. The fact is, the security to property afforded
by a residence within the limits of British possession and influence,
has contributed, in no inconsiderable degree, to this outward sign of
prosperity.
An hotel on the sea-shore, kept by some enterprising Parsees from
Bombay, and a great number of donkeys, attended by their drivers or
proprietors (little woollyheaded urchins), offer to the passenger who
may go ashore, the _contrast_ of a dinner of fish and a ride to the
town and cantonment of Aden. Beyond these, the attractions of the place
may be represented by a cipher.
At Aden the steamer takes in a supply of coal, and then starts for
Ceylon; which island she reaches in ten days, and where she remains but
for a few hours. Here will be found a branch steamer ready to start
for China; and, to the traveller thenceward, we can promise that this
portion of the journey, touching at Penang and Singapore, _en route_,
will surpass in picturesque and romantic scenery all that his eye has
hitherto beheld--we do not mean to say that, in many parts of Europe or
America, there are not isolated spots equally beautiful and sublime;
but, whether, for a continuous sea-journey of so many miles, for the
most part, in water as smooth as a "milk pan," it can be equalled?
certainly, it cannot be surpassed. The voyage from Ceylon to Penang
is commonly made in six days,--the steamer stopping there six hours;
that to Singapore in three days, with a stay of twenty-four hours;
and, finally, to Hong Kong, in another six days. Four days under steam
from Ceylon carry us to Madras, where, after another supply of fuel,
we proceed to Calcutta, occupying four days in the trip; and there
terminates our interesting journey. We have given a brief description
of the three last-named places in the section appropriated to the
details of the homeward trip, and therefore consider it unnecessary to
offer any remarks here.
TO BOMBAY.
The responsibility of this journey is divided, being firstly in the
hands of the Peninsular and Oriental Company; secondly, of the Egyptian
Oriental Transit Company; and, lastly, of the East India Company.
Forethought and precaution are therefore recommended in making the
arrangements necessary to secure the passage to Bombay throughout, with
as little inconvenience and as much comfort as can be experienced under
the circumstances above stated.
The Peninsular and Oriental Company allow a limited number of
passengers to book for Aden, on the 20th of each month, and, when
this can be effected, it is decidedly the most comfortable and least
expensive mode of reaching Bombay. The East India Company's frigates,
that convey the mid-monthly mail from Aden to Bombay, afford good
accommodation for a few persons; and the run is only one of ten days'
endurance.
The Peninsular and Oriental Company, under no circumstances, book
the whole way to Bombay. Passengers wishing to adopt that course,
and having fixed the date of their departure, should make immediate
application to JAMES BARBER and Co., whose circular will be
found at the end of this book, and whose advice and assistance will
always be found useful to the Overland traveller.
Passengers who cannot adopt the first part of this route, so far as
Aden, in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers, will find the
following directions serve them in the time of need.
The Company's steamers for Malta and Constantinople start from
Southampton on the 29th of every month, at 1·30 P.M. (when
the 29th falls on a Sunday, the steamer leaves at nine o'clock on the
morning of the 30th), arriving at Malta about the 10th of the month.
Passengers for Alexandria and Bombay are conveyed from Malta to
Alexandria by one of Her Majesty's steamers, leaving Malta, on the
arrival there, from Marseilles, of the London mail of the 7th of the
month.
On their arrival at Alexandria, the same means of travelling are
provided for passengers, as described in a previous part of this work;
but the passenger, in this case, having only hitherto paid for his
sea-journey to Malta £27 10s.--a further sum of £12 10s. has to be
paid for passage from Malta to Alexandria, and then he has to make his
arrangement with the Egyptian Transit Company, in order that he may
reach Suez in time to embark in the East India Company's steamer at
that port, which conveys the mail to Bombay.
The Transit Company have established the following rates:--
From Alexandria to Suez,
and vice versâ.
A lady { } £12
A gentleman { } 12
A child above ten years { In } 12
" of five years and under ten { vans } 8
" of two " " five { across } 6
" under two years { the } free
A European female servant { desert. } 10
A European man-servant or mechanic { } 8
A native female servant { } 8
Two cwt. of baggage is allowed at the £12 rate, and one cwt. for all
below it, and 16s. per cwt. is charged for any excess on that weight.
Provisions are liberally supplied on the journey; but hotel expenses at
Alexandria, Cairo and Suez, as well as wines, beer and spirits, are not
included in the sum charged by the Transit Company. The following may
be considered a fair estimate of the cost of the trip:--
£ s.
Transit 12 0
One cwt. of extra luggage 0 16
One day's board at Alexandria 0 8
Wine and beer 0 7
Ditto on journey to Cairo 0 7
One day at Cairo 0 8
Wine and beer 0 7
Ditto in the desert 0 7
Half a day at Suez 0 5
One bottle of beer 0 2
Boat-hire on landing, and, probably, donkey-hire
for sight-seeing 0 10
-----
£15 17
-----
This amount will vary, of course, according to the mode of living and
views of the passenger, but 15s. per day may be taken as a fair
average for living, and 5s. additional, well managed, will pay the
expense of seeing the sights of interest in or about Cairo, if a
prolonged stay be contemplated or practicable.
Arrived at Suez, the passenger will have to secure his accommodation to
Bombay, according to the regulations in the following pages.
_East India Company's rules for the engagement of passages and
accommodation of passengers in the Government steam-packets between
Bombay and Suez._
Application for passage is to be made at the office of the
master-attendant in Bombay, and at other ports to the commander.
Passengers are to be divided into two classes, viz.:--
First class, who sit at the commander's table and are entitled to all
the privileges of the quarter-deck.
Second-class, who are not entitled to walk aft of the paddle-boxes,
who berth forward, and either arrange for their own provision, or mess
with the warrant-officers or engineers.
Every passenger of the first class shall pay the following sum, as
table-money, for the voyage from Bombay to Suez, or from Suez to
Bombay, viz.:--
A lady or gentleman Rs. 200
A child ten years of age, and above five years 100
A child five years and above one 80
A child one year and under 50
A child under one year and with the mother Free
It is to be understood that, for the above sums, the passengers are to
be provided with a plain, substantial table; but no person is entitled
to more than one pint of wine and one bottle of beer per diem. Cabin
passengers have the first choice of seats at the table, and, after
them, the saloon passengers, in preference to those on the deck,
whose priority will be arranged according to their standing on the
passage-list. The seats will be arranged by the commander, and, once
taken, they cannot be changed without his permission during the voyage.
In addition to the table-money, the following sums will be charged for
the accommodation engaged by first-class passengers, viz.:--
A treble cabin Rs. 1000
A double cabin 800
A single cabin 500
A saloon berth 350
A deck passage 300
Every second class passenger shall pay Rs. 150.
For each European servant 50 Rs. must be paid as subsistence-money,
and 50 Rs. as passage-money; for native servants the charge will be
one-half the rate for a European; but none are to be considered and
taken as servants unless they actually accompany their masters or
mistresses.
A passenger who has engaged a cabin may make what arrangement he likes
for its occupation; he may either keep it entirely to himself, or
admit to share it with any one that he pleases, provided only that the
name of the person so admitted (if an adult) have been previously on
one of the lists, and subject to the following restrictions, viz.:--
A treble cabin cannot be appropriated to the accommodation of more
than--
Four ladies.
Three gentlemen.
Six children.
One lady and four children.
Two ladies and three children.
Three ladies and two children.
One gentlemen and three children.
Two gentlemen and two children.
A lady and her husband, with two children.
A double cabin cannot be appropriated to more than--
Three ladies.
Two gentlemen.
Four children.
A lady and three children.
Two ladies and two children.
A gentleman with two children.
A lady and her husband, with one child.
A single cabin cannot be appropriated to more than--
Two ladies.
One gentleman.
Three children.
One lady and two children.
Passengers in a steamer that may from accident or other cause be
obliged to return to port, will be entitled to the refund of the
amount that has been paid, deducting therefrom a sum for the table
allowance of the commander, according to the number of days that the
vessel may have been at sea, calculating the average time occupied in
a voyage to or from Suez to be eighteen days, and Aden ten days.
For the convenience of passengers from the Red Sea to India, the
commanders of the Honourable Company's packets are authorised to
receive payment of passage-money at Suez, or any port between Suez
and Bombay, in sovereigns, Spanish dollars or German crowns, at the
following rates of exchange, viz.:--
Sovereigns at Rs. 11 each.
Spanish dollars at " 2 and 3 annas each.
German crowns at " 2 and 2 annas each.
Each cabin-passenger may, if he pleases, put all his baggage into his
cabin. The saloon and deck-passengers will be allowed to keep one box
or bag above. The rest of the baggage is to be in the baggage-room,
and passengers will be allowed access to it twice a week, on a day and
hour fixed by the commander, who will appoint a person to have charge
of the baggage.
Any applicant may be refused a passage without any cause being
assigned, either by the authorities at Bombay or by the commander of
the vessel when away from Bombay; but a report of the rejection is to
be communicated to Government.
All persons who take passage, either themselves or through their
agents, will be considered as thereby binding themselves to comply
with these rules, which will be shown by the master-attendant or by
the commander of the vessel to parties who engage a passage.
ROUTE VIÂ FRANCE, GERMANY OR ITALY.
An impression is abroad that parties leaving England for India may
travel through France, Germany or Italy, embarking for Alexandria
at either Marseilles, Trieste, or Naples, at as reasonable a cost,
and with as little trouble as if they had taken their passage in the
Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers from Southampton.[9] That
such routes have their advantages, in the information and experience
which travelling on the continent imparts to the intelligent, no one
can deny; but that they are, in other respects, less troublesome or
more economical than the sea-trip cannot by experience be maintained.
In truth, no person can even compute with accuracy the actual expense
of a land-journey; for, though the charges for posting by diligence,
eil-wagon, vetturino, or rail, may be easily ascertained, it is
impossible to estimate probable hotel charges, the extortions of
_gendarmerie_, custom-house officers, passport employés, &c., or
to foretell what detentions may take place _en route_; detentions
which, if for only one hour beyond the time for the departure of the
steamer, involve a prolonged stay of another month. We, therefore, feel
justified in discarding all minute particulars respecting the routes
we have indicated, simply mentioning that parties who do not seek the
accommodation of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's boats until they
reach Malta or Alexandria, will have to pay (rateably) a higher sum
for their passage to Ceylon, Madras or Calcutta, than would be charged
them, were they to embark, in the first instance, at Southampton.
We may add, however, that should any parties, in the face of the
difficulties and objections, still prefer proceeding by the continental
route, they will do well to limit their luggage to the least possible
supply, and always refer, before deciding on the trip, to parties in
London, who can give them the latest and fullest information on the
subject.
[Footnote 9: There have been instances of passengers being detained at
Trieste, in consequence of there being only _three_ or _four_ wishing
to proceed;--the steamer did not start.]
THE HOMEWARD PASSAGE.
To the "homeward bound" who engages his passage in the Peninsular
Company's steamer right through to England, we may address the
following information:--
We will suppose him to be at Calcutta, or the provinces under the
Bengal Presidency. Having made up his mind to proceed to England,
and settled the period of his departure, he addresses _the Agent of
the Company in Calcutta_, requesting him to secure a passage in the
steamer appointed to proceed to Suez in the month he may have selected.
The advertisements published in the Calcutta papers will indicate
the arrangements made for the departure of the steamers, and the
plans which the Company's agents can supply will assist the intending
passenger to select a cabin. The prices of accommodation which we have
given in pounds sterling do not vary in India. The conversion of pounds
sterling into rupees at the current exchange of the day will at once
give the amount.
If the party be bent upon making a prolonged stay in Egypt, it will
only be necessary to engage a passage to Suez, taking a certificate
from the captain that the voyage _has_ been made in one of the
Peninsular and Oriental Company's vessels, in order to ensure a passage
from Alexandria to Southampton, at some future period, in one of the
vessels of the same establishment, by paying the amount (exclusive of
desert transit) that would have been exacted in Calcutta for the entire
passage. If, however, the traveller, after remaining in Egypt, purpose
visiting the Continent of Europe prior to his return to England, he
need not trouble himself about the certificate.
Having engaged his passage, the homeward-bound will next think of his
equipment for the trip. What we have said on this subject, in the
instructions to outward-bound passengers, will equally apply to him.
No cabin furniture whatever is required, nor will anything be needed
in addition to the ample wardrobe which a resident in India generally
possesses, beyond a couple of blouses, or light jean shooting-coats,
and a sola hat.
Should the traveller be resident at Madras, or under the Fort St.
George government, he should address his application to the Oriental
Company's agent at the Presidency, who will give him all necessary
information as to the time when the steamer may be expected at Madras.
He will be required to be perfectly ready to start, as the stay of the
vessel in the Madras roads seldom exceeds the few hours requisite in
coaling.
Officers on the Bombay establishment will, it is presumed, for the most
part, leave their own Presidency in the East-India Company's steamers,
the regulations regarding which will be found in a preceding page.
The accommodation of the government boats terminating at Suez, the
Bombay officer will be thrown upon his own resources for the remainder
of his trip. He will accordingly do wisely, if he wish to get rapidly
to England, to address himself a month before-hand to the agent of the
Peninsular and Oriental Company in Egypt, to book him a passage thence
to Southampton, and to arrange for his transit across the desert.[10]
[Footnote 10: See Appendix A.]
Officers on sick-leave or furlough very frequently arrive without
certain necessary documents, and are consequently subject to great
inconvenience and expense. They should be provided with--
Certificate of length of service.
" of being allowed a furlough.
" of date to which pay has been issued.
If from Bengal, a certificate from the pilot in duplicate of the
date of the ships leaving the Sandheads; and, if it be intended to
claim income-allowance from the military fund, a certificate from the
secretary to the fund of being entitled to such an allowance.
[Illustration: MUSSOOLAH BOAT.]
The voyage from India to Suez, as far as the attractions of the
intermediate ports are concerned, presents very few charms for the
traveller; and, even if they were numerous, the stay at each place is
so brief, that there is scarcely any opportunity of enjoying them; but
every change is acceptable to the landsman confined for several days
on shipboard, more particularly if the scenes he beholds have a dash
of novelty in them. Arrived at Madras, therefore (we speak now to the
Bengal officer), he will pull ashore in one of the Mussoolah boats,
whose peculiar construction and safe navigation through the surf that
perpetually rolls upon the shore at that port has always been a subject
of surprise to the novice. If he have a friend at the Presidency, he
will probably get the use of a carriage for the day, if not, he will be
able to hire a "shigram" (palanquin carriage), or a "a bandy" (gig),
and drive to all the most striking parts in the town. The Mount-road,
with its numerous European shops, and monument to Sir Thomas Munro, the
fort and the arsenal, the college, the public stables, the government
house, the Athenæum library, the Black town, &c., will furnish subjects
of inspection enough to occupy a few hours very pleasantly.
* * * * *
CEYLON.--The next point on the route has its attractions for
the Madras, as well as the Bengal, officer. An idea of these may be
gathered from the following lively and intelligent description of a
visit to Point de Galle, the coaling port, derived from "_The Monthly
Times_," and written by a gentleman who had touched there in the
"_Hindostan_," on his way to England:--
"On the seventh day, including our twenty-four hours' detention at
Madras, after leaving the Sandheads, we found ourselves, in the
morning, approaching the beautiful Island of Ceylon, and anchored about
noon in Point de Galle harbour. The entrance to the harbour was pretty
enough--low rocks, over which the waves were beating and bounding,
extended to the left, and a point of land seemed to jut out prominently
to them, on which is built the Dutch fort of olden days, and which
still retains its characteristic look of Dutch solidity and unavailing
massiveness. There is no appearance of town from the ship; and very
few habitations visible, or indications of much cultivation. The old
Dutch church forms the principal object in the fort. You know I had
letters from a family long resident at Galle. I proposed to see them
on the following morning, but they would not hear of my remaining on
board; so I landed in the afternoon, and soon found all was kindness
and hospitality on the part of my new Cingalese acquaintances. The
residence was formerly the old Government House, in the days of the
Dutch. It was a large, roomy, substantial building; the doors were
lofty, and the walls panelled in stucco, and painted with white and
ochre; the fittings-up and furniture were plain, but substantially
made, of carved ebony and satin-wood.
"On the following day, after a most gloriously comfortable night's
rest in a very clean bed and cool, capacious room, we started, after
breakfast, in a small palkee-garree and pony, always easily obtainable
on hire, to visit a country-house on a hill about three miles from the
fort. The drive was through a beautiful and open, well-shaded road,
with frequent interspersings of small cleared patches of rice and
other cultivation. The road itself was narrow, with ditches on either
side, but well metalled with broken granite. The comfortable houses
of the burghers rose occasionally by the road side, on little shady
eminences, here and there, and seemed neat and peculiarly _cozy_.
They were chiefly oblong, tiled buildings, with a verandah to the
front. These burghers are descendants either from the former Dutch or
Portuguese possessors of this coast; and many that I saw were not a
little darkened in their descent. On reaching the hill, which we had to
walk up, I found the sun sadly oppressive; but we were amply repaid for
the ascent, for the view from it was superb. The sea was visible, and
almost everywhere open to us along the horizon, through the different
hills; and every here and there, in our vicinity and below us, were
beautiful valleys and richly cleared spots, with well-defined roads
running through them, and occasionally cottages and huts dotted in
every direction; the grand distant mountains forming afar a tall and
varied background.
"I returned to the ship, after dinner, in the evening, much gratified
with my visit. The mode of living at Ceylon is more English, in all
respects, than at Calcutta; the table more simple--the servants
fewer--and the whole character of domestic economy less Oriental than
we are accustomed to on the Indian Continent; but the scenery of the
island itself is far from partaking of this un-Oriental appearance; it
realises, in everything, all we fancy and read of in descriptions of
tropical islands. The closeness and abundance of the vegetation, the
variety of Eastern jungle trees, the palm-like characteristic towering
of the cocoa and beetle-nut tree, everywhere prominent in the luxuriant
woods around you, all tend to give to Ceylon a picturesque and Eastern
style of beauty, very different from the low plains and unvaried
flatness of the country in Bengal.
"The dresses of the natives are different from Bengal; men wear combs
like the women of other countries, and have a loose cloth round their
legs, vastly resembling a petticoat. Their language is the Cingalese;
an open and gentle sort of well-vowelled dialect, which sounds prettily
and euphoniously enough, like the Malayan language.
"Trade altogether is not very extensive in Ceylon. At Galle there are
but three or four merchants, forming the entire mercantile community
of the place. At Columbo there are, perhaps, twenty merchants and
agents, and there is a Ceylon bank. The local trade is confined to
three articles, viz., coffee, cocoa-nut oil, and cinnamon, though a
few folks are beginning to turn their attention to sugar. Coffee is
reared in plantations on the higher lands, and in chosen spots in
the interior. Some of the plantations have done well, and, after the
third year, are described as having paid more with the one season's
produce than all the preceding and preliminary outlay and price of
block put together. Several concerns, however, are losing, the soil
being unsuitable; the present low prices for Ceylon coffee, in England,
must utterly ruin them. It has been proved, that the only chance of
success is with clearances on the forest and large tree lands: the
plant thrives in these, though it takes three years to bear, and
attains maturity only after the fifth year; it is expected to last ten
years. Like all other concerns, those under proprietors themselves fare
the best, and are easily distinguishable from those superintended by
agents; but all managers live very uncomfortably. The superintendents
get about 150 rupees per month, which is little enough, for supplies
of the commonest necessity reach only from Kandy, or from a distance,
and they are frequently without supplies at all, subsisting then on
rice and the poorest produce of the villages around them. The Ceylon
coffee itself ranks next to Mocha in the English markets; but recent
prices must be insufficient to meet the charges of production. It is
planted much in the same manner as with tea in Assam. After clearance,
they set the plants at certain distances, when they grow to about the
same height as the tea-tree. After blossoming and ripening, and before
falling, the fruit is gathered; when there is a simple process, by some
wheels and cheap machinery, to clear the berry from the pulp and skin.
"There are cinnamon gardens, near Galle, but they are not pleasing to
look at, and assuredly there is no spicy and aromatic odour on the
breeze, as the poets would fain establish in reference to this island,
the famed Taprobane of old! When you bruise a twig or shoot of the
cinnamon-tree and break off a small bit of the bark, the scent of the
cinnamon is powerful and pleasant. The cocoa-nut oil is expressed much
in the same manner as in Bengal, but it surprised me that, for domestic
use at Galle, it was so expensive; they asked sixpence for two quart
bottles of it, or, at this rate, about five rupees and more per maund.
I should have expected it to be cheaper in Ceylon.
"The Rifle corps seemed to be a fine, well-disciplined body of men,
chiefly Malays or their descendants. The regiment is officered like the
line, and the dress, appointments, setting up and look of the soldiers
were excellent.
"The salaries and receipts of the public functionaries and others in
Ceylon are not quite so good as under the Company, but the habits of
living, as I have before remarked, are more economical, and, I dare
say, there is more money comparatively saved in Ceylon, than in the
Company's wider and more imperial territories."
The new arrival at Ceylon is sorely beset by pedlars, who tempt him
to invest a small portion of his capital in ivory snuff-boxes and
knife-handles, tortoise-shell combs, card-racks, &c. A very few of
these articles, purchased at a third of the price asked for them, may
prove acceptable to friends in England, but we would recommend the
Ceylon visitor to abstain from too large an indulgence in his generous
inclinations, for ivory pays a heavy duty in England, and, after all,
the articles brought home may be procured in England at as cheap a rate.
After leaving Ceylon and passing through the Maldive islands, which,
though very low and level, are green and picturesque, no object of
interest presents itself until the port of Aden is reached.
Quitting Aden, the shores of the Red Sea are frequently seen, but
rarely approached during the upward voyage. In six days Suez is
reached, and, as soon as boats can come off to the steamer, the
passengers are landed and almost immediately conveyed by van (see
previous details on this head) across the desert.
The town of Suez offers no kind of inducement to prolong one's stay.
Small, dirty and destitute of any architectural beauties or antique
remains, it exhibits the worst specimen of a Mahomedan city in the
whole Ottoman empire.
Arrived at Suez, it will be for the passenger who has not contracted
for the entire trip home, to select his own method of getting to
Cairo. The vans of the Transit Company offer unquestionably the most
convenient and expeditious mode of carrying the traveller across the
desert; but there are not wanting persons who prefer the romance and
independence of a tedious trip on the back of a horse, donkey or camel.
If there were any objects of interest worthy of an occasional halt in
the desert, the inconvenience of this slow progress would have its
counterpoise; but when we assure the traveller that there is not one
single fragment of antique remains, one solitary picturesque spot, nay,
_nothing_, beyond _one_ tree, seven station-houses, and a multitude of
rat-holes and camel-skeletons, to diversify the broad, glaring, sandy
waste, he will not hesitate about the prudence of paying his £12--the
whole cost of transit to Alexandria--or £9 to Cairo only, and joining
the bulk of his fellow-travellers in the omnibuses.
From Cairo a freer choice is left to the traveller. If he prefer
lingering in Egypt, he will find in a visit to the cataracts, the
temples of Luxor, Carnac, &c., enough to engage his attention for an
indefinite number of weeks. On these points, however, we have supplied
information among the "Miscellaneous" matter at the close of this
volume.
The route from Cairo to Alexandria, merely reversing the order of the
trip, is described in a foregoing part of this volume. Arrived at
Alexandria--provided the passenger has not booked himself in India
for the entire transit to Southampton--it often becomes a question
which route shall be taken to accomplish the remainder of the journey.
The taste, inclinations or curiosity of some will lead them to
Constantinople, to Syria, the Holy Land, the Grecian Archipelago;
others may feel disposed to embark for Trieste, in order to visit
Venice, northern Italy and Germany. Many chalk out for themselves a
trip to Naples, Rome, Florence, Switzerland, &c., previously purifying
themselves of the bugbear plague at Malta; and some few embark in
the French steamer and make their way to Marseilles, there to serve
quarantine, preparatory to a tour through France.
If it were as much our province to advise as it is our purpose to
inform, we would suggest, as the result of the information imparted to
us by many travellers, that it is, on many accounts, most desirable
that persons from India should come straight to England, _in the first
instance_, thence betaking themselves to the continent of Europe, if
so inclined. The chief reasons for this proceeding are--the entire
avoidance of the quarantines, which are often irksome and always
expensive; the gratification of the natural affections by the earliest
possible meeting with relatives and friends; the facility of obtaining
information respecting the most attractive routes, and introductions
to families on the Continent; the opportunity of selecting a companion
from old fellow-soldiers, fellow-officials or Indian friends similarly
bent upon a pleasurable excursion.
But these arguments may weigh as a feather against the determination to
visit the interesting portions of Europe and Asia we have indicated,
preparatory to placing foot in England. It is difficult to eradicate
from any Anglo-Indians the notion that it is better to arrive cleansed
of Indian rust and polished by a tour through civilised lands, or
more prudent "to see the world" while you are in it, than to trust to
the chance of quitting England when you have just tasted its infinite
pleasures.
For the consideration of such reasoners, therefore, we submit some
information respecting quarantines, the rules of which, however, are
very changeable.
A passage to Malta from Alexandria may be procured in the "Peninsular
and Oriental Company's" boats for £12 10s. The French steamers charge
£10, but this does not include the table, wines, &c., which are paid
for separately to the _restaurateur_ on board. The trip in the English
steamer occupies _four_ days. The French vessel goes first to Syra, to
meet the Constantinople boat, and this occupies _seven_ days. Arrived
at Malta, intimation is given by the captain of the number of persons
who meditate remaining there, and accommodation is accordingly provided
for them in the lazaretto. Their stay will depend upon the nature of
the bill of health carried by the vessel; it is not, however, at any
time, less than twelve days, and may extend to twenty.
The regulations to be observed in the lazaretto are given on the
following page.
GENERAL REGULATIONS.
_To be observed by all Persons performing Quarantine in the Lazaretto
of Malta._
I.
All passengers, on landing, are to give their names to the captain of
the lazaretto, which are to be entered in the registry of the office.
II.
The captain of the lazaretto will assign apartments for passengers,
and each passenger will be provided with two chairs, a table, and a
wooden bedstead, for which no charges are made; but any damage done by
the passengers to the apartments or furniture is to be made good by
them before _pratique_.
III.
Passengers are not to be permitted to enter other apartments; nor can
they be allowed to receive visitors, except at the _parlatorio_ of the
lazaretto, and that only during office-hours; nor are they to trespass
the limits assigned to them by the captain of the lazaretto.
IV.
Passengers must pay a strict attention to all the instructions they
may receive from the captain of the lazaretto and from the health
guardians, and particularly in every point that regards their baggage,
clothes, &c., being properly aired and handled during the period of
their quarantine; and their quarantine will only commence to reckon
from the day on which all their baggage, clothes, &c., have been duly
opened and handled.
V.
All letters and parcels, or other effects brought by passengers,
must be given up, in order that they may be fumigated or depurated
separately from them, as the occasion may require.
VI.
All cases of sickness must be reported immediately to the captain of
the lazaretto, and all persons sick are to be visited immediately by
the physician to the lazaretto, after which official visit, passengers
are at liberty to avail themselves of any medical attendance they
think proper.
VII.
Passengers are to pay the Government fee for the guardians employed
to attend them, for the number of days of their quarantine, at the
following rates, viz.:--at 1s. 3d. per day for the guardian who
attends one passenger, and at 2s. 6d. per day for each guardian
who attends more than one passenger. They are to victual the guardian
or guardians during their quarantine, or to pay to each guardian
an allowance of 7d. per day in lieu thereof. It is to be clearly
understood that the guardians are employed solely for quarantine
purposes, and they are strictly prohibited to interfere in any other
service whilst they attend passengers.
VIII.
The office hours at the lazaretto are from 8 A.M. to 12,
and from 2 P.M. to 5 daily; and all letters sent to the
fumigating-room before 9 A.M. daily, will be delivered in
Valetta at 10, and those sent before 3 will be delivered in Valetta at
4 P.M. by the letter messenger, who is entitled to receive
from the passengers a penny for each note, parcel, or letter, as a
remuneration for his trouble and boat-hire.
IX.
A daily report of all circumstances is to be made by the captain of
the lazaretto to the superintendent of quarantine and marine police.
N.B. A _trattoria_ has been established at the lazaretto for the
convenience of passengers who wish to avail themselves of it, from
whence they can be supplied with dinners, wines, &c., &c., in their
own apartments.
Beds complete and other articles of furniture, if required, can also
be hired from a person appointed to provide them.
A note of charges for the _trattoria_, and for the hire of furniture,
will be furnished to the passengers, on their applying for it.
Of the manner in which the time may be passed in a lazaretto, the
following graphic sketch by Mr. Stocqueler, which appeared some time
since in the "_Asiatic Journal_," will convey no imperfect idea:--
"Upwards of 140 passengers left Alexandria in the _Oriental_, at
the end of May, for some fifty had joined it from Bombay; amongst
the latter were several heroes of Meanee and Hyderabad--fine young
soldiers, who were covered with honourable scars received in the
desperate engagements between Sir C. Napier and the Belochees. Never,
perhaps, was a vessel freighted with so many who had distinguished
themselves in conflict with the enemies of their country. Not less than
twenty-six officers, who had seen service in Afghanistan, China and
Scinde, paced the deck every day, and described the scenes which their
own prowess and that of their comrades had, for the previous three or
four years, rendered memorable in the history of British India. But
of this large number of homeward-bound passengers, only three (one
having two ladies in his family), quitted the _Oriental_ at Malta.
Those who _wished_ to prosecute the rest of their journey by land had
either failed to make the necessary provision,[11] or shuddered at
the prospect of twenty days' imprisonment in the lazaretto. Moreover,
they flattered themselves with the belief, that they would be enabled
to make the tour of the Continent when they had exhausted the various
pleasures of glorious England. And so they steamed away to Southampton,
leaving the few above alluded to--the writer of this among them--in the
lazaretto, under suspicion of the crime of being afflicted with the
plague.
[Footnote 11: Eighty pounds will carry a man through Italy,
Switzerland, and France, with comfort, allowing for several days' stay
at each place of interest.]
"Meanwhile, let me assure the traveller from India, that even a three
weeks' incarceration in the Malta lazaretto is not intolerable, if,
which is generally the case with the imprisoned, he is lucky enough to
have one or two pleasant and intelligent companions. I have before me,
at this moment, a memorandum, written after twelve days' of captivity,
and, as it may serve to re-assure future prisoners, by conveying some
idea of the scenes, impressions, and occupations which diversify
existence in the durance they are compelled to support, I here
transcribe it:--
"'Let me survey my prison, and its _agrémens_. I am lodged in two
commodious apartments, overlooking the quarantine bay. I look out
of the southern window of my verandah, and have the waters of the
Mediterranean forty feet only below me. Opposite, at the distance
of about 300 yards, and divided from me by these waters and the
quarantine harbour, are the ramparts of the fortifications, surmounted
by windmills, flag-staves, and a small Roman Catholic chapel. To the
right is the termination of the bay, where a dozen of Greek, Austrian,
and English brigs and barques lie in quarantine, sufficiently near to
allow me to observe the operations on board. Behind all these, a little
more to the south-eastward, is part of the suburbs of La Valetta, the
evening promenade, gardens, hills, &c. To my left, is the entrance to
the bay, overlooked on one side by part of the city of La Valetta, and
on the other side by Fort Manvel, now used as a part of the lazaretto.
This view greets me whenever I stand in the verandah, a recreation to
which one is often tempted by the clearness, coolness, and crispness
of the air, the beauty of the sky, and the rich blue of the water.
Well, this of itself is something. Then, for moving sights, we have
occasionally the arrival or departure of a steamer from Alexandria, or
Greece, or the coast of Spain; of vessels from Tripoli, and Smyrna,
and Syra; of speronaros from Sicily or the Italian coast; or we see a
vessel released from quarantine, working her way out of the harbour.
Early in the morning, four times in the week, the bell of the little
chapel, on the summit of a rock opposite the lazaretto, tolls to
prayers. The chapel is not more than twenty feet in breadth, and the
same in depth. The altar occupies the back or southern side, and
exactly faces us. The bell ceases, the priest dons his canonicals,
and the matin mass commences, the responses being audibly chanted or
muttered by the crews of Maltese and Italian vessels, who are either
quartered in apartments beneath us, or employed on board the vessels.
The door of the chapel closes, and the work or pastime of the day
commences.
"'Ha! there's a splash!--a sailor in quarantine has stripped himself,
and plunged into the water beneath his prison-door. Another and another
follow him! How admirably they swim! the ease of the water-fowl, and
the rapidity of the fish. See! one of them dives! How long he remains
under water! Will he drown?--will he not be suffocated? not a bit of
it; he rises to the surface, bearing in his hands some of the black,
starry, thorny members of the crustaceous tribe. He has a knife in his
right hand, which I did not observe before, and which he evidently took
with him to dislodge the fish from their location in the rocky depths.
Splash! and the strong swimmer is again twenty feet below the surface.
Again, he rises--and again descends--and behold! he has accumulated
a perfect breakfast of shell-fish! Meanwhile, the others breast the
waves, diving, floating, playing, and rejoicing in all the muscular
strength which the noble, healthful, and refreshing science calls into
action. Well, a walk will do no harm--the verandah is sixty paces long,
and forty or fifty turns will give one an appetite for breakfast. A.
and B. have abundance of conversation for the promenade, and when we
have exhausted the pleasures of memory, we can turn to the pleasures
of hope, and debate the possibility of an abatement of the quarantine
or, at any rate, discuss the respective advantages and pleasures of
going to Syra, to Naples, or Marseilles. We are tired now, and it is
time to dress. Breakfast is ready--can anything be more satisfactory,
or anything more tempting and wholesome? There are coffee and tea,
and three times as many rolls as we can eat! The eggs are as large
as the finest production of the English barn-door hen, and boiled to
the _exact_ point--half a minute less, and the albumen would not have
coagulated; half a minute more, and they would have been as hard as a
stone. And _there's_ a delicious dish of strawberries, brought only
yesterday from the coast of Sicily, and plucked but an hour before
their embarkation! And flowers too:--
'The captive soothers of a captive's hours.
"'Carlo, best of servitors, knows my _penchant_, and decks the table
with the rose, the pink, the carnation, and the fragrant thyme.
"'Breakfast over, Mr. Cassolani is announced. He is the captain of the
lazaretto; a courteous, intelligent old gentleman, of very correct
notions and kind disposition. He is come to give us a list of the
passengers who have just arrived at Marseilles, and to ask us to
subscribe a trifle for a poor widow, whose husband, a guardiano of the
lazaretto, died of apoplexy the day of our arrival. We have dropped
our mites for the widow's benefit, and Cassolani condescends to pick
them up, though he will not receive them from our hands. This painfully
reminds us that we are prisoners on the suspicion of the crime of
plague--_gens suspects_. People 'in _pratique_,' as freedom from the
lazaretto is called, will 'walk with us, talk with us, buy with us,
sell with us--but they will not eat with us, drink with us,' nor
pollute themselves by touching our persons or our clothes. Cassolani
carries a stick, to keep us at a respectful distance, and there is a
soldier of the 42nd Highlanders on the opposite ramparts, prepared
to send a bullet through us, if we attempt to go abroad until we are
fairly cleansed of the foul imputation.
"'Cassolani departs, and S. and I go to chess. From chess we fly to
books. It is three o'clock, and dinner is announced. For economy and
society's sake, we have made a _table d'hôte_, and the whole party dine
together. It is true that B. looks suspiciously at one dish, and C.
distrusts another; but, nevertheless, the whole style of the thing is
good and clean, comprising the English and French _modes de cuisine_ as
well as could be desired. There is, for example, soup _à la Julienne_,
and a dish of mackerel; roast beef _à l'Anglais_ (the beef comes to
Malta from Tunis, and, after serving quarantine, is fattened for the
table); a _fricandeau_ of sweetbread in a well-flavoured sauce; a
stewed breast of mutton, mashed potatoes, a maccaroni, peas or French
beans, or artichokes, an apricot tart, cheese, and a salad. Oranges,
cherries, and strawberries compose our dessert, and we drink a pint of
Marsala. What more would a man have?
"'The sun declines, and the Maltese world emerges from its confinement.
The telescopes now come into play, and we direct our views to the part
of the town where the sempstresses congregate, and gaze out of the
balcony windows, to catch the evening breeze, or anything else that may
be passing. The fall of night brings with it tea and candles, and then
books, draughts, chess, and--to bed!'
"Of the other _agrémens_ of the lazaretto there remains nothing to
notice, if I except the numerous boats which are continually coming and
going across the harbour, often laden with females, who, in their black
mantillas, with sparkling black eyes, and hair _à la Madonna_, resemble
Spanish women.
"The expense of living in the Malta lazaretto is about eleven shillings
_per diem_, as thus:--
s. d.
Breakfast 1 8
Dinner 3 0
A bottle of Marsala 1 3
Hire of Furniture 0 8
Servants' Wages (including diet) 2 3
The Guardian (ditto) 1 10
--------
10 8
"This can be increased, if necessary, by a more abundant dinner, tea,
or coffee in the evening, spirituous liquors, and a greater quantity
of furniture; but it cannot be diminished. Washing costs about one
shilling per dozen pieces, and sevenpence _per diem_ for the diet of
the _blanchisseuse_, who must come into the lazaretto to perform her
functions. A capital circulating library keeps the incarcerated well
supplied with books (at one penny per volume per day), and _Galignani's
Messenger_, and the Maltese papers can also be had on application to
Mr. Mure's establishment."
Emerging from the lazaretto, the traveller is recommended to pass a few
days in inspecting the town and the surrounding country (_vide_ page
11), and then to repack his luggage, dispatching such as he may not
require on his homeward trip direct from Malta, consigned to the care
of his agent in London, with instructions as to the disposal of the
same.
Those travellers who prefer visiting France _viâ_ Marseilles, will find
the lazaretto there, comparatively speaking, a sort of purgatory. We
subjoin the regulations as published by the French authorities:--
WITH UNCLEAN BILL OF HEALTH.
ART. 1. French Post-office Packets.--19 days after debarking
effects and passengers.
Passengers by these boats and their baggage.--17 days after landing at
the lazaret; 14 days only when the baggage shall have been _plombé_
at the consulate of France at the port of embarking, and that this
operation be legally certified.
ART. 2. French or foreign men-of-war.--17 days after the
landing of passengers and their baggage.
Passengers on board these vessels.--17 days without _spoglio_, 14 days
with _spoglio_.
ART. 3. Vessels with pilgrims.--25 days.
Pilgrims.--25 days after landing.
ART. 4. Every other description of sailing-vessel or
steam-boat.--21 days after landing suspected articles.
Passengers by these vessels.--17 days without _spoglio_, 14 days with
_spoglio_. Merchandise.--21 days after landing at the lazaret.
WITH DOUBTFUL BILLS OF HEALTH.
ART. 1. French post-office packets.--15 days after debarking
effects and passengers.
Passengers by these boats and their baggage.--14 days after landing;
12 days only when the baggage shall have been _plombé_ at the
consulate of France at the point of embarking, and that this operation
be legally certified.
ART. 2.--French or foreign men-of-war.--14 days after the
landing of passengers and their baggage. Without passengers, 12 days.
Passengers on board these vessels.--14 days after landing without
_spoglio_, and 12 days with _spoglio_.
ART. 3. Vessels with pilgrims.--20 days.
Pilgrims.--20 days after landing at the lazaret.
ART. 4. Every other description of sailing vessel or
steam-boat.--15 days after landing suspected articles.
Passengers by these vessels.--14 days without _spoglio_, after landing
at the lazaret; 12 days with _spoglio_.
Suspected goods.--15 days after landing at the lazaret.
WITH CLEAN BILLS OF HEALTH.
ART. 1. French post-office packets.--12 days after debarking
effects at the lazaret.
Passengers by these boats and their baggage.--9 days after landing,
and their baggage exposed to the air.
ART. 2. French or foreign men-of-war.--9 days, with or
without passengers.
Passengers on board these vessels.--9 days after landing, and their
baggage exposed to the air.
ART. 3. Every other description of vessel or steam-boat.--12
days after landing suspected goods.
Passengers by these vessels.--9 days.
Suspected merchandise.--12 days after landing at the lazaret.
Of the Syra (Athens) quarantine, it is enough to say that it is more
commodious and agreeable than the same establishment at Marseilles, and
not so convenient as the one at Malta.
The Syra lazaretto is, according to the report of the latest visitors,
exceedingly commodious and clean, and facing, as it does, the sea,
where there are continual breezes, it is infinitely cooler than the
city of Athens. The charges of the Trattoria are not greater than
those at Malta (about eleven shillings per diem), and the detention
in quarantine never exceeds seventeen days, and when a clean bill of
health is brought by the French steamer from Alexandria, the duration
of the imprisonment is very much less.
THE VOYAGE TO SOUTHAMPTON.
Quarantine, on arrival in England, being done away with (unless some
special cause arise on the voyage home to render precaution necessary),
the direct route is greatly to be preferred; and the ease and comfort
which it offers as contrasted with the annoyances of continental
travelling needs no comment.
On reaching Southampton, the steamer goes into dock; the whole of
the luggage is forthwith conveyed to the dock warehouse, and the
examination commences with that of the first person on the list.
Passengers are not required to attend in person when their luggage
is examined. Those who desire to leave Southampton _by train
immediately upon arrival_, or who do not wish to subject themselves
to the annoyance of being kept in the docks waiting their turn, are
recommended to deposit their keys (including name and address) with Mr.
Hill's clerk,[12] giving him, at the same time, a list of the packages,
distinguishing such as contain articles subject to duty. For want of
proper arrangement on the part of the passenger, we have known three
hours pass in the examination of one gentleman's baggage, with upwards
of eighty of his fellow-travellers anxiously waiting for their turn.
This arises, in the first place, from the large quantity of luggage
which many bring; and, in the second, from the want of system in
packing, distinguishing that which is immediately requisite from that
which is unnecessary.
[Footnote 12: Mr. Hill is the Southampton Custom-house agent of the
"Peninsular and Oriental Company."]
As passengers will be required to keep pace with the mails in either
route, unless they arrange for a fortnight's stay in Egypt, the system
of having a larger quantity of luggage than is actually necessary
cannot be too much deprecated.
The traveller is also apt to mix "duty goods" with personal luggage,
in anticipation of their escaping notice. This is a "forlorn hope,"
and leads invariably to the most rigid scrutiny of every package,
thereby causing great delay. If the goods be such as trinkets, Bombay
work-boxes, Dacca or Cuttack silver, China or India filligree packed
in cotton, a still greater commotion arises at the custom-house, and
we are not quite sure whether the circumstance does not render the
articles liable to seizure and confiscation, under the quarantine laws.
The better plan by far, whether the traveller attend the examination
of his luggage or not, is to separate all goods liable to duty, and
put them in a case or trunk, with an inventory of its contents, and
the value of each article separately stated,[13] and then leave them
in charge of Mr. Hill, with instructions to forward them without
delay. They can, of course, be examined at once; but we think it
unfair to subject others to the inconvenience and loss of time that
must consequently ensue. If the plan here recommended be followed, we
venture to submit that it would be satisfactory to all parties.
[Footnote 13: Government have the option of accepting your valuation.
If they disapprove the estimate of the proprietor, they are empowered
to seize the goods, but, in that case, must pay ten per cent. advance
on your valuation.]
A general tariff of East India fabrics will be found in the Appendix
but it is not generally known that all British manufactures
that have been exported, and purchased out of Great Britain, are
subject to a duty if re-imported. Being private property, however,
they are generally released on petition to the Board of Customs, the
petition being accompanied by a solemn declaration made by the owner
before a magistrate, that the claim set forth in the petition is true.
The reason assigned for this law is, that it protects and promotes
English manufacture, by preventing a return of goods to the country
that have once been exported for sale.
Parties who, from necessity or choice, bring servants from India,
have too frequently so indefinite an agreement, that disputes and
unpleasantnesses in settling with them frequently arise. We, therefore,
earnestly recommend passengers to endeavour to do without personal
servants, if possible; but if it be impracticable to dispense with
them, we would suggest that the engagement should specify whether
services cease on arrival,--if the servants are to be returned to India
at the expense of the employer and--whether it shall be _viâ_ the Cape
or Overland. The agreement should likewise state the allowance that
will be made for board-wages. Sixteen shillings per week is the sum
charged at the lodging-houses for this class.
Persons arriving from India, particularly families, incur great
expense by proceeding, on their arrival, direct to hotels or to
furnished lodgings. In most cases they would do better by resorting
to a boarding-house. There are many suitable establishments of this
nature throughout England, where comfortable accommodation is afforded
at a moderate charge. A letter of inquiry, written on the passage
from Alexandria to Malta, and dispatched _viâ_ Marseilles, would be
answered, and wait the writer's arrival at Southampton.
EXPENSE.
We must not omit to advert to the total expense of an Overland journey,
for it is an important question to all who _must_ go to India. We think
it will be found, on a fair calculation, that this is, by no means, so
much in excess of the cost round the Cape of Good Hope as people are
led to imagine.
Independently of the cost, there are other important points worthy
of consideration, which are frequently forgotten by those who suffer
themselves to be engrossed by the mere pecuniary view of the question.
For example, there is an amazing difference in the _time_ consumed in
the two routes. Proceeding Overland, there will be two months gained
which may be either passed at home, or, if the attractions of England
have ceased, can be employed in anticipating the stipulated period of
a return to, or arrival in India. In the latter case--for we presume
the traveller to be in the East India Company's service--the Indian pay
will be received two months sooner, and what is of greater moment, by
far, two months' time is gained in "actual service," a consideration
which, at some future day, may be of the last importance to the civil
or military officer.
If to these advantages we add the difference in the cost of the
equipment for a six weeks' and a four months' trip; the knowledge
acquired by witnessing variety of scenery and diversity of manners;
the effect on the health and spirits of perpetual change; the slight
risk of delays from accidental want of water and provisions, damage in
gales of wind, and other casualties which often drive sailing vessels
into intermediate ports and prolong their voyage, there can, we should
think, be no difference of opinion as to the superior claims of the
Overland Route.
As the nature of the currency with which the traveller should supply
himself is a question of great importance, we consider it within our
province to remark, that sovereigns are, by far, the best coin that
can be carried, for purposes of general supply. Letters of credit may
be obtained, however, to be used in the event of accident rendering
additional funds necessary; but it is prudent to endeavour to avoid a
resort to them, for the exchange and commission on advances made upon
such letters of credit, subject the drawer to considerable loss, an
observation that applies particularly to Egypt. At Ceylon the sovereign
is at a premium, frequently fetching twenty-one shillings.
* * * * *
MISCELLANEOUS.
For the information of such travellers as purpose varying their
journey, by visiting the various places which occur _en route_, we
subjoin the following particulars:--
_England to Gibraltar, by the Peninsular Steamers, calling at Vigo,
Oporto, Lisbon and Cadiz._--These steamers start from Southampton
on the 7th, 17th, and 27th of every month, at 3 o'clock in the
afternoon. They proceed, in the first instance, to Vigo, to land the
mails for that part of Spain, affording to the traveller a view of
the magnificent scenery of Vigo Bay and the Bayona Islands. Thence
the steamer proceeds close along the coast, which presents a splendid
panoramic view of "mount and dale," with numerous towns and villages
interspersed, until she arrives off Oporto, where she stops to land
mails and passengers, but does not enter the port. The passengers,
however, will have a good view of the Fortress of San Joa da Foz, the
Convent of the Sierra at Villa Nova, &c., so celebrated in the war
between Don Pedro and Don Miguel; also the city of Oporto, which looks
very picturesque from the sea. Leaving Oporto, she holds her course on
for Lisbon, and, passing the Burlings Rocks, and Rock of Lisbon, will
enter the Tagus generally on the fourth day from leaving Southampton.
_Lisbon, &c._--The view of Lisbon, on entering the Tagus, is beautiful
beyond description. The steamer usually remains here a day, before
starting again on her passage southward for Cadiz and Gibraltar, and
this will enable travellers to take a cursory view of the Lusitanian
capital; but it is recommended that they should, if time permits,
stop ten days here, proceeding to Cadiz or Gibraltar by the following
steamer.
There are very good hotels now at Lisbon, and the town is greatly
improved in cleanliness, no longer deserving the character for filth,
&c., bestowed upon it by Lord Byron and others. Among the various
interesting excursions which may be made in the neighbourhood of
Lisbon, of course the spot where
"Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes,
In variegated maze of mount and glen,"
will not be forgotten, and will amply repay the trouble of a visit.
From Lisbon to Cadiz the passage is made, in ordinary circumstances, in
about twenty-six to thirty hours, and from Cadiz to Gibraltar in about
eight hours.
_Cadiz, Seville, &c._--The steamer remains at Cadiz only from three
to four hours; but even this will enable the passenger to see the
principal part of the town, which is exceedingly clean and handsome;
and its appearance in approaching the bay of Cadiz singularly beautiful
and striking. If the traveller can afford to stop for the next steamer,
he may make an excursion to Seville, between which and Cadiz steamers
run almost daily. Xerez de la Frontera, and Puerto de Santa Maria, with
the extensive _Bodejas_ of the wine merchants, are also well worthy of
a visit.
At Gibraltar, the steamer on the Indian line will receive the traveller
and convey him to Malta. In forming a calculation, it will be prudent
to reckon on having not less than seven or more than nine days' stay
at each place, provided it be intended to go forward by the next
steamer. Again, should a party desire to remain a fortnight in Egypt,
previous to joining the steamer at Suez, he can be accommodated by the
Peninsular and Oriental Company, who will convey him to Alexandria, and
cause him to be taken up by the vessel on the Indian side at any later
period.
The additional cost of a stoppage at any of the intermediate places
would depend upon the tastes, habits and means of the traveller; it
need not be much, and, to a party of friends proceeding thus, the
journey, at the proper season, would be instructive and delightful.
From Malta the traveller can diverge to Constantinople; or a few
hours will take him to any of the chief points of interest, either in
Italy or Greece. It would far exceed our limits to give details of
all the various trips that _might_ be made from so central a point as
Malta; luckily, however, there is no want of guide-books to classic
ground--indeed, from the nature of the subject, any such guide, to be
really useful, must in itself be much larger than the present volume.
Correct information as to the means of locomotion will be furnished by
Mr. Holton, the Peninsular Company's Agent at Malta, who can advise the
traveller how to save much valuable time, and also how to avoid trouble
and expense.
* * * * *
A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT.
In a previous page we have pointed out the principal objects of
interest in the vicinity of Cairo and Alexandria, which are accessible
in the ordinary transit through Egypt. In the event, however, of a
prolonged residence in that country, either from necessity or choice,
the list of _videnda_ may manifestly be much extended.
Supposing the traveller, then, to start from Cairo, after inspecting
the pyramids and other sights near that city, he can, by application to
an agent on the spot, procure a boat, well supplied with provisions,
&c., and proceed a considerable distance up the Nile. We have stated
elsewhere that there is little besides the Pacha's palace, Pompey's
pillar, and Cleopatra's needle, to be seen at and in the neighbourhood
of Alexandria, and therefore call the attention of the sojourner in
Egypt to the interesting antiquities he will have an opportunity of
examining on the borders of the Nile. Should he purpose limiting his
trip to a fortnight, in order to be in time for the packet from Suez
or Alexandria, it must be borne in mind that he can only visit a few
of the places mentioned below, and must make arrangements accordingly;
but, in case he should desire to extend his travels, we subjoin some
notes from the best authorities, of the manifold wonders to be seen on
the banks of the mighty Nile, and, if the reader require even further
information, we commend to his perusal the admirable work on Egypt by
Sir Gardiner Wilkinson.
[Illustration: THE NILE BOAT.]
The great pyramid of Sacarah contains a small chamber with a few
hieroglyphics, differing in this respect from all others. The arched
tombs (now nearly destroyed) proving the pre-Augustan existence of the
masonic arch, is of the time of Psammeticus II., about B.C.
604.
Mit Raheny, a large colossus of Rameses II., the supposed Sesostris.
Mounds and indistinct remains of Memphis. On the right bank are the
quarries from which a portion of the stones for the pyramids were
drawn. In one part, oxen are represented drawing a block placed on a
sledge. A little to the south of the modern village is an inclined
plane, leading from the quarries to the river.
Thirty miles farther to the south, at Atfeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis,
but without ruins.
Left bank, false pyramid (Meidoum), difficult of access, on account of
the canal.
Three miles beyond Feohm, and on the opposite side (right bank),
remains of crude brick walls, with hieroglyphics on the bricks.
Right bank, eight miles N. of Meneijeh, is Fehnah, the ancient Acoris.
Greek Ptolemaic inscription. Tombs cut in the rock with inscriptions.
Roman figures in high relief. Quarries on top of mountain, with a tank
for water.
Right bank, seven miles beyond Meneijeh, is Rohn Ahman, some grottoes
and ruins of an old town.
Nine miles farther (right bank) Beni Hassan; remarkably interesting
grottoes of the time of Osortixen (about B.C. 1740), in
whose reign it is calculated that Joseph arrived in Egypt. The plans,
explanatory of the trades, amusements, domestic arrangements, &c., of
the ancient Egyptians, merit particular attention. In the columns of
the best grotto we recognise the _Doric Order_. In the entablature over
the doorway, observe that the ends of rafters are sculptured, instead
of mutules and tryglyphs.
About a mile and a half S. is another grotto, a temple of Pasht,
Bubastis, or Diana, the _Speos Artemidos_ (date Thotmeh III., 15th
century B.C.) The Speos is known by the name of _Stable
Antar_. Near it are deposited cat mummies.
Right bank, at Shekh Abadeh, are a few remains of _Antinöe_, built by
Adrian. The principal streets may be traced, as well as the hippodrome,
towards the east, out of the walls. Grottoes in rock, &c.
This whole district has been famous for thieves, from the time of Bruce
to the present day.
Right bank. El Rasheth, grotto in the mountain, with a statue
represented on a sledge.
The ruins of Hermopolis, at Ashmonnoyn, have been destroyed.
The Pacha's sugar-factory at E'Roamoon merits a visit.
Left bank. Ibayda, at the corner of the mountain, crude brick walls,
and some grottoes not very remarkable.
After Shekh Said, the mountains go off to the E., leaving the river. A
little beyond is Til el Amama, to the S. of which are the ruins of an
ancient town, of which only the brick houses remain.
To the S. are grottoes in the mountain, with curious sculpture, and
upon the mountain is an alabaster quarry. The sculptures represent a
king and queen offering and praying to the sun, which shoots forth rays
terminating in human hands, one of which gives the emblem of life to
the king.
Six miles before Maufalouat, at El Hareib, are ruins of an old town in
a ravine, in which are dog and cat mummies.
Near Maabdeh, opposite Maufalouat, are crocodile mummy-pits, difficult
of access and dangerous.
E'Siout, the capital of the Said, and standing on the site of
Lycopolis, merits a visit. The gardens are celebrated. Visit the
grottoes in the mountain, if it be only to enjoy the beautiful view,
which is, perhaps, unequalled in Egypt. The mummies of the wolf are
occasionally found.
The remains of the splendid temple of Antaopolis have been sapped and
carried away by the stream. A few stones only serve to point out its
site at Gau (right bank).
Right bank. Shekh Eredi, where a Moslem saint, transformed into the
form of a serpent, still performs very wonderful cures upon those who
can pay. Some small grottoes on the left bank. To the west, Loohag,
near the corner of the mountain, are remains of Athribi. Inscription in
stone, in a ruined temple. Grottoes in the mountain.
To the west of this is the white monastery, Deira-bow Sehwoodee. It has
very much the appearance of an Egyptian temple, having a cornice and
tomb, and is supposed to have been founded by the Empress Helena. Like
the other Deirs, it is inhabited by Christian peasants.
Right bank. At Ekhmin, nearly opposite Loohag, are remains of
Panopolis. A large mass of stone contains a Greek inscription of the
temple of Pan.
Left bank. Menshie, eight miles beyond Ekhmin, remains of a stone
quarry. Ptolemais Hermii.
Left bank. Abydus, three hours' ride from Girgeh, and two hours from
Bellianeh. Take donkeys at Girgeh and send the boat on to Bellianeh.
When last at Abydus, I was entertained for the night at the "Deir," to
the north or north-west of the village. The most remarkable monument is
what Strabo has described as a "Memnonium," a very singular building,
consisting of several parallel arches or arcades, leading, he says, to
a tank, now concealed. The arches are _not_ masonic, but cut out of
large masses of stone and it is this circumstance which has, in a great
measure, given rise to the error, as to the arch not having existed
previous to the Augustan era. The building was begun by Osirien, the
father of Sesostris, and finished by his son.
To the north of the Memnonium, is the small temple of Osiris, built, or
at least finished, by Ramses II., and remarkable for having a sanctuary
made of alabaster, for the reception of the famous tablet of the kings,
which, next to the Rosetta stone, has been of the greatest assistance
to the students of hieroglyphics. The Necropolis has been robbed to
form the collections of Salt, Drouetti, and others.
Right bank. How (Diospolis parva)--few remains--vestiges of a temple of
late date, and about a mile and a half to the S., of other mounds.
Left bank. Dendera (Tentyris) opposite Genneh. The principal temple
was consecrated to Hathor, the Egyptian Venus, and not to Isis. The
most interesting, as well as most ancient sculptures, are outside, at
the western extremity, where we see Cleopatra and her son Casasion.
The sculptures above are of the time of Augustus, as are those of the
lateral walls of the Naos. The pronaos presents the portraits and
names of Caius, Claudius, and Nero, as well as Tiberius, by whom it
was constructed. The pylon, leading to the temple, is of the time
of Domitian and Trajan. The Peripteral temple to the right, is the
Typhonium, and immediately behind the great temple is a small one
consecrated to Isis. The pylon towards the south is connected with the
latter, and was raised in the reign of Augustus. The walls of the town,
and a second wall for the sacred edifices, may be traced, and there
are, I believe, some tombs in the mountain behind the town, that have
not been properly explored.
Right bank. Quoph, the ancient Coptas--ruins of town and temple--small
Roman-Egyptian temple, in the village of El Qalah, towards the N.,
forming once a part of Coptas, (Qoos, Apollinopolis parva). No more
remains left, but a monolith converted into a tank, and to the north of
the town is a well.
Thebes (_Diospolis magna_), on the eastern side, consisting of Karnak
and Luxor: the _Lybian Suburb_ on the west bank, consisting of Gormah,
Medinet Haboo, the tombs of the kings, queens, &c.
* * * * *
KARNAK.--At least fifteen centuries combined to raise the
great temple, the different ages of the various portions of the edifice
being distinctly traceable, from the time of Osortiren I. (B.
C. 1740) to the Ptolemies. On approaching the great western
propylon, observe the holes (almost like windows, and by some described
as such) for fixing the _flag-masts_, as well as the recesses below, in
which they were planted. After looking at the great hall of columns,
and the obelisks, &c., notice particularly the granite sanctuary, which
is a restoration of one destroyed by the Persians. It was raised by
Alexander, in compliance with a vow of Philip. On the _sandstone_
wall that encloses and protects this sanctuary, observe (north wall)
a very curious and rich offering, in which a Pharaoh presents to the
temple, obelisks, flag-masts, gold, silver, &c. The sculptures deserve
particular attention. Those on the outside of the southern wall relate
to the conquests of Shishah, who plundered the temple of Jerusalem.
The name of the place (Joudamallah) is legible on a cartouche,--one of
thirty led captives before the god of Thebes.
The whole north wall is covered with historical sculptures, all of
which were originally painted, representing the conquests of Osirien,
the father of Sesostris. Some little attention is required to see them
well. One group is more curious than the rest: the king has caught
his adversary with the bow-string, and is decapitating him. Notice
the triumphal return to Thebes, and remark the Nile (distinguished by
crocodiles) with a bridge thrown across it.
To the south of the great temple is a _tank_, then come several immense
propyla, part of an avenue of sphinxes, and lastly some remains of a
considerable temple which was surrounded by a lake.
To the north are other remains, with a handsome propylon of Ptolemaic
date, and an avenue of sphinxes.
The temple, second in importance at Karnak, is of the Pharaonic period,
but approached by a pylon of Ptolemaic date, at the extremity of the
great avenue of sphinxes leading to Luxor. On the right of the first
or hypoetheral court, notice a sculpture illustrating the manner
in which the _flag masts_ were raised before the temples. Adjoining
this temple, and on its west side, is a small temple of Oph, in which
travellers sometimes lodge.
From Karnak to Luxor, it is easy to trace the line of sphinxes, which
connected the palace of the latter with the temples of the former.
_Luxor_, with the exception of the sanctuary, is entirely Pharaonic,
having been founded by Amanoph III., and finished by Rameses II., in
the 15th century B.C. The granite sanctuary, like that of
Karnak, is a restoration, and of the same age. In one of the halls,
approachable from the river side, observe a curious set of sculptures,
relative to the birth of the founder of the palace. His mother, the
queen, is seated on the stool of accouchement, surrounded by midwives
and genii. The latter present him the emblem of life. A little farther
on, the infant is presented to and caressed by Amunre; and Thoth, the
god of letters, is choosing for him his prenomen, "Sun, Lord of Justice
and of Truth."
To see the interesting sculptures on the great propylon, it is
necessary to visit the palace at an early hour. They relate to the
conquests of Rameses II., but much attention is required to make out
their details. In the midst of the fortified camp is a lion, the
companion of Sesostris in war.
_Lybian Suburb._--To see the tomb of the kings, one night should be
passed in the valley of Biban el Melook; but the entrance of one of
the excavations affords sufficient accommodation. That of Belzoni is
usually preferred.
Belzoni's tomb (that of Osirien, whose conquests are depicted on the
north side of the great temple of Karnak) is the most magnificent; next
to that, the tomb of Rameses III. is the most interesting. It is near
an angle of the rock, and will be readily distinguished by the recesses
on either side of the principal shaft. These little cabinets contain
some exceedingly curious sculptures or paintings, and it is from one of
them that Bruce drew his harp scene.
The tombs of the queens are in a separate valley, to the west _of
Mehdenet Habor_.
At Goorneh (old Goorneh) is the palace of Osirien. In the Aposiet are
some remains of a very ancient temple, of which a portion is cut in the
rock,--an arch (not masonic) very similar to those of Abydus. Between
the Aposiet and the Memnonium are many tombs deserving attention.
The Memnonium (now perhaps more properly called the Rameseion, _i.e._,
"Rameseseion," the "house of Rameses") is the most uniform and elegant
of Egyptian structures. Pay particular attention to all the battle
scenes, to the immense statue of Rameses II., supposed to have weighed
nearly a thousand tons, to the circumstance of the bases of the columns
of the hepastyle being made seats--to a very remarkable sculpture at
the western extremity of the hall--to the private apartments which
follow--the Pharaoh seated in the sacred Persia--the next apartment,
supposed to be the library--traces of gilding on the doorways, &c.
_The Colossi in the Plain._--Of these the northern one is the vocal
statue of the ancients. It is of Amunoph III., the founder of Luxor,
who reigned in the 15th century, B.C. Wilkinson discovered
the means of deception; a stone, which, when struck, produces a sound
similar to that described by Strabo or Pausanias, is still to be found
in the lap. The other statue bears the same cartouches, and both are
supposed by Wilkinson to have stood at the commencement of a dromio or
avenue of the sphinxes running nearly twelve hundred feet towards an
indistinct mass of buildings now called Kom el Hattan. Champollion and
some architects suppose that they stood before a propylon.
_Mehdenet Habor._--A temple-palace, a private palace or harem, and
a temple. The harem is very interesting, but partly destroyed. It
consists principally of a pavilion in advance of the palace, and in
it are some curious sculptures, among which the king is represented
playing chess with his ladies. A ladder is necessary.
The great temple-palace is remarkable not only for its architecture,
but for the sculptures representing the conquests of Rameses III.
(about the 13th century, B.C.) These are particularly
remarkable in the hypoetheral court, where there is exhibited, in the
northern side, a magnificent pageant, the coronation of the Pharaoh.
The whole exterior of the northern side of the building is covered with
battle scenes. Among the heaps of hands poured out before the conqueror
are _lions' paws_. There are also heaps of phalia.
The great lake, for the ceremonies of the dead (the hippodrome of
the French _savans_), will be best distinguished from the top of the
pavilion. There are several other remains, and tombs without number.
There is no trace, whatever, of a wall of circumvallation, though the
crude brick enclosures of the temples still remain.
We add to the foregoing, the observations of other writers upon the
subject of some of the most interesting of these wondrous antiquities.
* * * * *
LUXOR.--In approaching this temple from the north, the first
object is a magnificent propylon, or gateway, which is two hundred feet
in length, and the top of it fifty-seven feet above the present level
of the soil. In front of the entrance are the two most perfect obelisks
in the world, each of a single block of red granite, from the quarries
of Elephantine; they are between seven and eight feet square at the
base, and above eighty feet high; many of the hieroglyphical figures
with which they are covered are an inch and three quarters deep, cut
with the greatest precision. Between these obelisks and the propylon
are two colossal statues, also of red granite; though buried in the
ground to the chest, they still measure twenty-one and twenty-two
feet from thence to the top of their mitres. The attention of the
traveller is soon diverted from these masses to the sculptures which
cover the eastern wing of the north front of the propylon, on which is
a very animated description of a remarkable event in the campaigns of
Osymandrias or Sesostris. The ruined portico, which is entered from the
gateway, is of very large dimensions; from this a double row of seven
columns, with lotus capitals, two-and-thirty feet in circumference,
conducts you into a court, one hundred and sixty feet long, and one
hundred and forty wide, terminating at each side by a row of columns,
beyond which is another portico of thirty-two columns, and the adytum,
or interior apartments of the building.
The temple of Luxor was probably built on the banks of the Nile, for
the convenience of sailors and wayfaring men; where, without much loss
of time, they might stop, say their prayers, present their offerings,
&c. Great and magnificent as it is, it only serves to show us the way
to a much greater, to which it is hardly more in comparison than a kind
of porter's lodge; I mean the splendid ruin of the temple at Karnak.
The distance from Luxor to Karnak is about a mile and a half, or two
miles. The whole road was formerly lined with a row of sphinxes on each
side. At present these are entirely covered up for about two-thirds of
the way, on the end nearest to Luxor. On the latter part of the road,
near Karnak, a row of criosphinxes (that is, with a ram's head and a
lion's body), still exist on each side of the way.
* * * * *
KARNAK.--The name of Diospolis is sufficient to entitle us
to call the grand temple at Karnak the temple of Jupiter. This temple
has twelve principal entrances, each of which is composed of several
propyla and colossal gateways, or _moles_, besides other buildings
attached to them, in themselves larger than most other temples. One
of the propyla is entirely of granite, adorned with the most finished
hieroglyphics. On each side of many of them have been colossal statues
of basalt, breccia and granite; some sitting, some erect, from twenty
to thirty feet in height.
The body of the temple, which is preceded by a large court, at the
sides of which are colonnades of thirty columns in length, and
through the middle of which are two rows of columns fifty feet high,
consisting, first of a prodigious hall, or portico, the roof of which
is sustained by one hundred and thirty-four columns, some of which are
twenty-six feet in circumference, and others thirty-four; there are
four beautiful obelisks marking the entrance by the adytum, near which
the monarch is represented as embraced by the arms of Isis.
The adytum itself consists of three apartments, entirely of granite.
The principal room, which is in the centre, is twenty feet long,
sixteen wide, and thirteen feet high. Three blocks of granite form the
roof, which is painted with clusters of gilt stars on a blue ground.
Beyond are other porticoes and galleries, which have been continued to
another propylon, at the distance of two thousand feet from that at the
western extremity of the temple.
It may not be uninteresting to add a few particulars relative to this
temple, the largest, perhaps, and certainly one of the most ancient, in
the world.
Two of the porticoes within it appear to have consisted of pillars in
the form of human figures, in the character of Hermes, that is, the
lower part of the body hidden, and unshapen, with his arms folded, and
in his hand the insignia of divinity; perhaps the real origin of the
Grecian Caryatides.
Exclusive of these columnar statues, which have been thirty-eight in
number, and the least of them thirty feet high, there are fragments,
more or less mutilated, of twenty-three other statues, in granite,
breccia and basalt; seventeen of which are colossal, and have been
placed in front of the several entrances. They are in general from
twenty-five to thirty feet in height, and executed in the best Egyptian
style.
* * * * *
BIBAN-OOL-MOOLK, OR, THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS, is a most
dismal-looking spot, a valley of rubbish, without a drop of water or
blade of grass. The entrance to the tombs looks out from the rock like
the entrance to so many mines; and, were it not for the recollections
with which it is peopled, and the beautiful remains of ancient art
which lie hid in the bosom of the mountain, would hardly ever be
visited by man or beast. The heat is excessive, from the confined
dimensions of the valley and the reflection of the sun from the rock
and sand. The whole valley is filled with rubbish that has been washed
down from the rock or carried out in the making of the tombs, with
merely a narrow road up the centre.
Diodorus Siculus states, on the authority of the Egyptian priests, that
forty-seven of these tombs were entered in their sacred registers, only
seventeen of which remained in the time of Ptolemy Lagus. And in the
180th Olympiad, about 60 years B.C., when Diodorus Siculus was
in Egypt, many of these were greatly defaced. Before Mr. Belzoni began
his operations in Thebes, only eleven of these tombs were known to the
public. From the great success that crowned his exertions, the number
of them is nearly double. The general appearance of these tombs is that
of a continued shaft, or corridor, cut in the rock, in some places
spreading out into large chambers; in other places, small chambers pass
off by a door from the shafts, &c. In some places, where the rock is
low and disintegrated, a broad excavation is formed on the surface,
till it reaches a sufficient depth of solid stones, when it narrows,
and enters by a door of about six or eight feet wide, and about ten
feet high.
The passage then proceeds with a gradual descent for about a hundred
feet, widening or narrowing, according to the plan or object of the
architect, sometimes with side chambers, but more frequently not.
The beautiful ornament of the globe, with the serpent in its wings,
is sculptured over the entrance. The ceiling is black, with silver
stars, and the vulture, with outspread wings, holding a ring and a
broad-feathered sceptre by each of his feet, is frequently repeated on
it, with numerous hieroglyphics, which are white or variously-coloured.
The walls on each side are covered with hieroglyphics, and large
sculptured figures of the deities of Egypt, and of the hero for whom
the tomb was excavated. Sometimes both the hieroglyphics and the
figures are wrought in intaglio; at other times they are in relief;
but throughout the same tomb they are generally all of one kind.
The colours are green, blue, red, black and yellow, and, in many
instances, are as fresh and vivid as if they had not been laid on a
month. Intermixed with the figures, we frequently meet with curious
devices, representing tribunals where people are upon their trials,
sometimes undergoing punishment; the preparation of mummies, and
people bearing them in procession on their shoulders; animals tied
for sacrifice, and partly cut up; and occasionally the more agreeable
pictures of entertainments, with music and dancing, and well-dressed
people listening to the sound of the harp played by a priest, with his
head shaved, and dressed in a loose, flowing white robe, shot with red
stripes.
Two other colossal statues, called also by some the statues of Memnon,
are in the plain, about half-way between the desert and the river. They
are about fifty feet high, and seated each on a pedestal six feet in
height, eighteen long, and fourteen broad. The stone of which they are
formed is of a reddish grey.
These two statues are by the Arabs familiarly called Shamy and Damy.
* * * * *
MEDINET HABOO.--One outward inclosure, or brick wall, seems to
have contained three distinct, though connected, buildings, to which
we may arbitrarily assign the names of the chapel, the palace and the
temple. The principal entrance to the palace from the plain being
blocked up, it is only to be approached now by a side doorway from the
pronaos of the chapel. Of this building, which may once have been the
residence of the sovereigns of Egypt, one tower only is remaining. This
was divided into three stories, in each of which are two apartments.
The stone pavement of the lower rooms is still perfect, but the
upper floors and the wooden beams which supported them have entirely
disappeared. The interior walls have not such a profusion of sculptures
as those without. At each side of one of the windows is an Isis, with
the hawk's wing, kneeling, and wearing the lunar crescent on her head.
At another window are four projecting sphinxes; and in a corner of one
of the rooms are two females, with baskets of lotuses on their heads,
carrying a plate of cakes to the king, who is sitting; before him
stands another female, with the same head-dress, stretching out her
arm, while he puts some of the delicacies into his mouth.
Ebek, the most northern of all the Theban monuments, is only remarkable
because the plan on which it is constructed is very different from
that of all other temples in Egypt. It has a single row of columns in
front, and the rest of the building is distributed into a variety of
comparatively small apartments.
* * * * *
MEMNONIUM.--The term Memnonium is used by Strabo to designate
that part of ancient Thebes which lies on the western side of the
river. The French _savans_, however, without sufficient reason, have
restricted it to the magnificent ruin which we are going to describe.
This beautiful relic of antiquity looks to the east, and is fronted
by a stupendous propylon, of which two hundred and thirty-four feet
in length are still remaining. The propylon stands on the edge of the
soil; but the area cultivable, or space for the dromos behind it, is
floored by the solid rock, on which the rest of the temple is erected.
The eastern wall is much fallen down, and both ends are greatly
dilapidated. Every stone in the propylon appears to have been shaken
and loosened in its place, as if from the concussion of an earthquake,
for no human violence seems adequate to produce such an effect in such
an immense mass of building as that under consideration. A stair enters
from each end, by which to ascend to the top of the propylon, from
which passages go off in a number of chambers, as in the temples of
Phylæ Edifore, &c.
This colossus measures six feet ten inches over the foot, and sixty-two
or sixty-three feet round the shoulders. It has been broken off at the
waist, and the upper part is laid prostrate on the back; the face is
entirely obliterated, and, next to the wonder excited at the boldness
of the sculptor who made it, and the extraordinary powers of those who
erected it, the labour and exertions that must have been used for its
destruction, are most astonishing. It could only have been brought
about with the help of military engines, and must then have been the
work of time. Its fall has carried along with it the whole of the wall
of the temple which stood within its reach. It was not without great
difficulty and danger that we could climb on its shoulder and neck, and
in going from thence upon its chest, assisted by Arab servants.
* * * * *
DENDERA.--The centuries that this great temple of Venus has
seen have scarcely affected it in any important part; and have given
it no greater appearance of age and ruin than what serves to render
it more venerable and imposing. After seeing innumerable monuments
of the same kind throughout the Thebaid, it seemed as if we were now
arrived at the highest pitch of architectural excellence that was ever
attained on the borders of the Nile. Here we found concentrated the
united labour of ages, and the last effort of human art and industry
in that regular uniform line of construction, which had been adopted
in the earliest times. After admiring the general effect of the
whole mass, its elegance, solidity, correct proportions and graceful
outlines, it was difficult to decide what particular objects were to
be first examined. Whether its sculptures or paintings, typical and
ornamental, the distribution of the interior apartments, the details
of the capitals and columns, the mystical meaning of particular
representations here seen for the first time; the zodiacs,[14] or the
other celestial phenomena, sculptured on the ceilings, all seemed
objects of high interest and importance, all invited a nearer and
closer inspection. The portico consists of twenty-four columns in three
rows, each above twenty-two feet in circumference, thirty-two high, and
covered with hieroglyphics. The peculiar form of the square capital,
with a front face of the goddess on each side, particularly attracted
our attention. We were at first struck by the singularity of an idea
so foreign to the common notions of Greek architecture; but the eye
is soon reconciled to it; and the solemn and mild monotony of these
faces impresses the spectator with a silent, reverential awe, a willing
conviction of the immediate presence of the deity of the place in her
most gracious character; and, indeed, the Greeks, in their Caryatides,
seem in some degree to have added their sanction to the principle.
[Footnote 14: The principal zodiac has since been removed.]
The sekos, or the interior of the temple, consists of several
apartments, all the walls and ceilings of which are in the same way
covered with religious and astronomical representations. The roofs are,
like the rest in Egypt, flat; the oblong masses of stone resting on
the side walls; and, when the distance of these is too great, one or
two rows of the columns are carried down the middle of the apartment,
by which the roof is supported. The capitals of these columns are very
richly ornamented with the budding lotus, the stalks of which being
carried down some way below the capital, give the shaft the appearance
of being fluted, or rather scolloped.
The following, gleaned from other sources, will, perhaps, be also
acceptable as a guide to the sight-seer.
No person ought to leave Egypt without visiting Assowan and Philoe,
particularly if he go up as high as Thebes; for he can form no correct
judgment of Egypt and her wonderful and gigantic works, unless he sees
the temples and shrubberies at Esireh Fdjou, Koon, Ombes, Assowan, and
Philoe, as well as those in the Thebaid and at Tentyra. By traversing
Egypt from Alexandria to Assowan, you can with ease inspect all those
wonderful remains of labour and art, unequalled in the world for extent
or size as architectural works, and which, to the mind of the observer,
place beyond doubt the wealth, the power, the science, and great
population of ancient Egypt. To attempt to convey to a person who has
not seen structures of the kind, any idea of what these ruins are, is
out of the question. In the granite quarries at Assowan, from whence
these immense monuments were taken, are two unfinished sarcophagi and
an obelisk cut and formed, but still attached to the native rock. The
obelisk is shaped out and cut round on all sides except its under one,
a bed which still attaches it to the rock. It measures 76 feet in
length, and 12 feet broad, and in depth to the drift-sand in which it
has imbedded itself 6 feet thick. The marks of the workman's chisel and
wedge, with which instruments, it appears, these immense masses have
been disjoined from the native rock, are as fresh as if they had been
applied but yesterday. It is inconceivable how such entire masses could
have been taken from their bed to the Nile, a distance of at least a
mile and a half, and from thence transported to where we see them still
standing, seventy, eighty, and ninety feet in height, and eight, ten
and twelve feet square at the base, as at Luxor, Karnak, Helipolis,
Frorun, and at Alexandria, covered with deeply engraved figures and
hieroglyphics, in some places still bearing a glossy and fresh polish.
In the island of Philoe there are some beautiful and extensive
remains of Egyptian, as also one of Grecian, architecture. Leaving
Luxor in the night of the third of May, we arrived at Khenneh the
following day, and, after visiting the temple of Hentyra or of Isis, on
the opposite bank of the Nile, and remaining an hour or two at Khenneh,
we left that place for Cairo, where we arrived on the sixteenth of the
same month.
Passing through the palm-tree grove which covers the high ridge, or
mound, formed by the ruins of the ancient Memphis, the traveller
approaches a small open circular plain, which is supposed to have
been the Archerusian Lake of the city; on the south side of this, the
large colossal statue of Sesostris is to be seen. It was discovered
and laid open by Mr. Sloane and M. Coriglier, and is the most perfect
statue in Egypt, and the most beautifully formed. It lies with its face
downwards. It is broken off below the ankle, and the entire length of
the block now remaining is thirty-six feet six inches. The ruins of
the edifice before which it had stood are apparent under the rubbish
which surrounds the place. The ancient Necropolis of Paccachia, or,
as some writers suppose, of the city of Memphis, extends for miles
round the pyramids. Indeed, from the pyramids of Dashores to those of
Cheops and Copprieves, is one continued burying-ground. The pyramids
of Dashores, as well as those of Saccachara, and the excavations and
tombs in the rocks, may be inspected in one day. We landed at Goza, and
took donkeys, and passed the day in visiting the large pyramids. The
following morning we passed the island of Rhode, visited the Nilometer,
and, after sailing down about half a mile, and passing the aqueducts
of Lubuddia, about one-hundred yards, landed again on the island, and
entered the gardens of Ibrahim Pacha.
Another writer gives the following outline of the interesting sights to
be seen on the Nile.
On the eastern bank, eight miles to the south of Cairo, quarries of
Maasara, from which the stone used for part of the casing of the
pyramids was taken. Some hieroglyphic tablets, in one of which oxen
are represented drawing a stone placed on a sledge. A little beyond
the modern village is an inclined road, which leads from the quarries
to the river. Thirty miles further to the south, on the same bank, is
Atfëeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis, no ruins. False pyramid on opposite
bank, three miles beyond El Feshu, and on eastern bank, remains of
crude brick, the walls of an ancient village, called El Héebee and some
hieroglyphics.
From Beuisooef is the road to the Fyoom, which, when the Nile is low,
may be visited conveniently. A brick pyramid at Illahoon, another at
El Howâra, and vestiges of the labyrinth, obelisk at Biggig, ruins on
and near the lake Moeris, and at Qasr Kharoon. From Aboogirgeh is the
shortest road to Bahnasa (Oxyriuchus) mounds, no ruins, Gebel é Tayr,
north-end, grotto or rock temple, called Babyn, convent further to the
south; eight miles below Minyeh is Tehneh (Acoris) on eastern bank,
a Greek Ptolemaic inscription on the face of the cliff, tombs hewn
in the rock, with small inscriptions at the doors, Roman figures in
high relief, on the upper part of the rock, some hieroglyphic tablets,
quarries on the top of the mountain, a tank, &c.
Same (eastern bank) seven miles above Minyeh, Komahmar, some grottoes,
and ruins of an old town; nine miles farther (eastern hank), Beni
Hassan, very fine grottoes, with curious paintings; and about a mile
and a half farther, a grotto, or rock temple, of Pasht (Bubastis, or
Diana), the Speos Artemidos, cat mummies in the ravine.
Antinöe, now Shekh Abadeh, few remains of the town, a theatre, the
principal streets, baths, &c., outside the town, on the east, is the
hippodrome. The grottoes in the mountain are unsculptured, and have
some Christian inscriptions. A little to the north of Antinöe are the
remains, apparently, of Besa, scarcely worthy of a visit.
At El Bersheh, a grotto on the mountain, in which a colossus is
represented on a sledge. At Oshmoonayn (western bank) no remains of
Hermopolis Magna. At Gebel Toona, a mountain, skirting the desert to
the west are mummy-pits, a tablet of hieroglyphics, and statues in
high relief. At Mellawee, and at Tamoof Tanis, superior mounds, but no
ruins. At Shayda, at corner of mountains, on eastern bank, crude brick
walls, and some grottoes.
At Shekh Said, the mountains recede to the eastward, leaving the river,
and a little beyond is the village of Tel el Armarnar, to the north of
which are the remains of a small town, and to the south the ruins of a
city, which I suppose to be Alabastron: all the stone buildings have
been quite destroyed, but some of the brick houses remain; near the
crude brick towers of the temple are the largest houses. To the east
are several fine grottoes in the face of the mountain, with curious
sculptures, and on the summit of it is an ancient alabaster quarry.
Six miles below Maufaloot, at El Haryib, ruins of an old town, in a
ravine of the Gebel Aboolfaydee; numerous dog and cat mummies, near El
Maabdeh, opposite Maufaloot; crocodile mummies in chambers of great
extent in the mountain.
At E'Sioot (Lycopolis), the capital of Upper Egypt, grottoes, wolf
mummies; the modern cemetery is prettily laid out. Gow (Antoepolis)
a few stones of the temple, close to the river; some grottoes at the
corner of the mountain, to the north, below Gow, but not containing
good sculptures. Shekh Hereedee, small grottoes; Roman statue at the
base of the mountain, cut out of a piece of a rock. The snake of Shekh
Hereedee is still supposed to perform cures.
To the west of Soohag, near the corner of mountains, old town of
Athribes, a Greek inscription in the ruined temple, grottoes in
the mountain; and to the north is the white monastery, or Dayr
Amba Shuoodee, nearly opposite Soohag is E'Khmim (Panopolis) Greek
inscription of the temple of Pan, and some remains of other stone
buildings.
Mensheeh (Ptolemais Hermii), western bank, eight miles above E'Khmim,
remains of a stone quay. From Girgh go to Abydos, three hours ride,
and send on the boat to Bellianeh, returning to it in the evening, two
hours ride; or, coming down the river, stop at Bellianeh, and send on
the boat to Girgeh. At Abydos two temples and many tombs.
How (Diospolis parva) has very few remains of Ptolemaic or Roman time.
In mounds at the ridge of the desert, a mile and a half south of How,
some tombs; one of Dionysius, son of Ptolemy, has some sculpture.
Qasr e Syad (Chenoboscion), remains of a quay; about one mile beyond
the eastern mouth of the canal of this village, are some very ancient
grottoes, with kings' names. Dendera (Teutyris) opposite Qeneh, two
temples, inscriptions, zodiac, &c. Qeneh is famous for its manufacture
of porous jars; from it, roads lead to Kossayr on the Red Sea.
Qoft (Coptos), ruins of the old town, and of a temple, a Christian
church, canals, &c.; at the village of El Qala, to the north, is a
small Roman Egyptian temple.
Qoos (Apollinopolis parva), no more ruins left; at a well on the north
of the town is a Ptolemaic monolith, with hieroglyphics, converted into
a tank, and a few stone remains of early time in the plain to the west,
near a Shekh's tomb. Thebes (Diospolis magna), on the eastern bank,
Karnac and Lugsor; on the west, the tombs of the kings, private tombs,
several temples, colossi of the plain, &c.
Erment (Hermonthis), west bank, temple and early Christian church.
Tuot, or E`Selemeëh (Tuphium) on eastern bank, Ptolemy temple, much
ruined, and concealed by the hovels of the peasant. Gebelaun, _i.e._,
"the two hills," a small ancient town in ruins, and grottoes, not
worthy of a visit. At Tofnees and Assfoon, mounds of ancient towns, no
ruins.
Esneh (Latopolis), fine portico, zodiac and quay. At Edayr, three miles
to the north of Esneh, remains of a small temple of the Ptolemies and
Cæsars, lately destroyed. Thirteen miles from Esneh, near El Qenan,
ruins of a quay; on west bank and three miles farther, a small stone
pyramid, opposite the quay, is the junction of the limestone and
sandstone. Four miles beyond, on eastern bank, is El Kab (Eilethyas),
ruins of a very ancient town, the temples lately destroyed, curious
grottoes in the mountain, and a short distance up the valley are three
small temples. In the bed of the ravine are ponds encrusted with natron.
Edfoo (Apollinopolis magna) two temples. Eleven miles above Edfoo, and
on the eastern bank, remains of an old town, on face of hill, fortified
with towers of Arab construction. Silsilis (now Hagar Silsili),
quarries of sandstone, used for building the temples of Upper Egypt,
tables and grottoes. Komombo (Ombos), two temples; ancient stone
gateway, in a crude brickwall on the eastern side of the enclosure of
the temples; houses burnt.
At E'Sooan (Syene), ruins of a small temple of Roman date, some
columns, Saracen wall, and Cufic tombstones; granite quarries, in one
of which is a broken obelisk; Latin inscription of Caracalla near
another quarry; road to Philæ, and wall; numerous hieroglyphic tables
on the rocks. Island of Elephantine; opposite the projecting rocks of
E'Sooan is the Nilometer, which is a staircase, with Greek inscriptions
relating to the rise of the Nile. Granite gateway, bearing the name of
Alexander, the son of Alexander the Great.
At the northern end of the cataract, in the island of Sehàyl, few
vestiges of a temple; hieroglyphic tablets on the rocks. Go from
E'Sooan to Sehàyl in a boat, and ride to Philæ. At Philæ, temples and
ruins. Islands of Biggeh, opposite Philæ, to the west, ruined temple,
tablets, &c., &c.
NUBIA.
Dabode (Parembole), temple, west bank. Kerdassy, ruins and quarries.
Tafa (Taphis), two small ruins, and stone enclosures. Kalabshee
(Talmis), large temple, quarries, and, on hill behind it, to the
northward, a small, but interesting temple, called Bayt el Wellee, cut
in the rock. Dandoor, temple. Gerf Hossayn (Tutzis), temple, cut in the
rock, of the time of Rameses II.
Dakkeh (Pselcis), temple of Ptolemaic and Roman date; It has also
the names of two Ethiopian princes, Ergamun, or Ergamenes (mentioned
by Diodorus, iii. 6, as a contemporary of Ptolemy Philadelphus), and
Ataramun; many Greek inscriptions. Opposite Dakkeh, ruins of Contra
Pselcis, or of Metacompso.
Corte (Corti), few remains. Maharraka, or Oofideena, ruins of
Hierasycamenon, style bad, and all of late date. Isis is represented
under the fig-tree. Taboaa, temple of the time of Rameses II., with
avenue of sphinxes; the adytum is cut in the rock, the rest built.
Hassain, or Amada, a temple of Thothmes, ancient, nearly opposite to
it in Dayr or Derr, on east bank, the capital of Nubia, which has a
temple cut in the rock, of the time of Rameses II.
Ibreem (Primis parva), part of the ancient wall on south side of town;
remains of a stone building amidst the houses; some small grottoes
below the town near the river. Aboosimbel, two temples cut in the rock,
the finest Egyptian monuments out of Thebes; they are of the time of
Rameses II.
At Ferayg, nearly opposite, on east bank, a small temple in the rock.
Farras, on west bank, few remains; grottoes with Coptic inscriptions,
some distance from the river. Wadee Alfeh, remains of three buildings
on west bank; fine view of the second cataract from a rock on the same
bank, a short walk to the south of Wadee Halfeh.
A day and a half beyond Wadee Halfeh are the two small temples of
Samneh and the third cataract.
The distances from the Mediterranean to the second cataract are as
follow:--
From Rosetta to Cairo about 110 miles.
Cairo Benisoef 83
Benisoef Minyeh 85
Minyeh E'Sivot 106
E'Sivot Girgeh 97
Girgeh Qeneh 79
Qeneh Thebes 49
Thebes Esneh 38
Esneh Esooan 100
Esooan Wadee Halfeh 219
----
Total from Rosetta to Wadee Halfeh 960 miles.
----
It may be interesting to the sportsman to know that, in the course
of his river trip, he will occasionally find "food for powder." Game
is by no means abundant, but here and there a random shot may be had
at a gazelle; coveys of partridges _have_ been seen; rock-pigeons are
numerous; and the rifle may afford some sport in the land of crocodiles.
The gazelle, ibex, _kebsh_ (or wild sheep), hare, fox, jackal, wolf,
and hyæna, are still found in the valley of the Nile, or in the desert.
The "kebsh" frequents the eastern desert, principally in the ranges of
primitive mountains, which, commencing about latitude 28° 40' at the
back of the limestone hills of the valley of the Nile, extend thence
into Ethiopia and Abyssinia.
The Egyptian hare is a native of the valley of the Nile, as well as the
two deserts. It is remarkable for the length of its ears, which the
Egyptians have not failed to indicate in their sculptures; but it is
much smaller than those of Europe.
The intelligent Denon has made a just remark on the comparative size of
animals common to Egypt and Europe, that the former are always smaller
than our own species, and this is exemplified by none more strongly
than the hare and wolf.
In enumerating the wild beasts of the desert, it may not be irrelevant
to observe, that the hyæna and wolf are seldom met with in unfrequented
districts, or any great distance from the Nile, where they would suffer
from want of food, and are therefore principally confined to the
mountains lying a few miles from the edge of the cultivated land. The
wolf is very rarely seen on the coast of the Red Sea, and few even of
the watering-places of the interior of the desert are infested by it,
or the hyæna.
The hippopotamus was always rare in Lower Egypt, but in Upper Ethiopia
this amphibious animal is common in the Nile.
The crocodile, formerly an inhabitant of Lower Egypt and the Delta,
now limits the extent of its visits northward to the districts about
Inanfaloot.
APPENDIX (A).
As a guide to the cost of a berth, or cabin, it is only necessary to
mention the rates at which passengers can be accommodated, according to
the berth or cabin they occupy.
Key:
A-Aden.
B-Ceylon.
C-Madras.
D-Calcutta.
E-Penang.
F-Singapore.
G-Hong Kong.
+------------------------------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+
| FROM ENGLAND TO | A | B | C | D | E | F | G |
+------------------------------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+
| | £ | £ | £ | £ | £ | £ | £ |
|_For a Gentleman_, occupying }| | | | | | | |
| a berth in one of the }| | | | | | | |
| general gentlemen's }| 77 |113 |118 |127 |134 |142 |165 |
| cabins }| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | |
|_For a Lady_, occupying a }| | | | | | | |
| berth in one of the }| 82 |122 |127 |136 |143 |152 |175 |
| general ladies' cabins}| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | |
|_For a Gentleman and his }| | | | | | | |
| Wife._ A whole cabin }|214 |290 |299 |317 |332 |350 |396 |
| throughout }| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | |
| Occupying one of }| | | | | | | |
| the best reserved }|259 |335 |344 |362 |377 |395 |441 |
| cabins throughout. }| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | |
|_For a Child with the Parent_,| | | | | | | |
| 5 years and under 10 | 50 | 65 | 70 | 80 | 70 | 75 | 85 |
| 2 years and under 5 | 35 | 45 | 50 | 60 | 50 | 55 | 65 |
| Not exceeding 2 years |Free|Free|Free|Free|Free|Free|Free|
|_For Servants_--European-- | | | | | | | |
| Female| 37 | 46 | 52 | 62 | 52 | 57 | 67 |
| Male| 35 | 44 | 50 | 60 | 50 | 55 | 65 |
| Native--Female| 30 | 32 | 38 | 44 | 39 | 44 | 49 |
| Male| 26 | 28 | 34 | 40 | 35 | 40 | 45 |
+------------------------------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+
The above charges include every expense, except hotel expenses in
Egypt, and wines, beer, and spirits, while passing between Alexandria
and Suez. (See p. 38.)
For an estimate of the expense of proceeding from Suez to Bombay, the
reader is referred to the East India Company's Regulations, p. 39; see
also James Barber and Co.'s Circular.
APPENDIX (B.)
TARIFF
OF DUTIES WHICH ARE LEVIED ON THE IMPORTATION OF THE FOLLOWING
ARTICLES:--
Notwithstanding the advice already given in this little volume, we
repeat that passengers would always save themselves much trouble, and,
by facilitating the examination of luggage, their fellow-travellers
great delay, if they would take the precaution to pack goods liable to
duty in a separate case, marked "duty goods," and leave it in charge of
Mr. Hill, the "Peninsular and Oriental Company's" custom-house agent
at Southampton, who always goes on board the steamer on its arrival,
and who will punctually forward it as directed. They should, at the
same time, deliver to Mr. Hill a list of the contents and the value of
each article, bearing in mind that duty is chargeable on the value of
the article in England, without reference to its cost price, and that,
provided the revenue officer does not approve of the declared value
made by the owner of the goods, he can seize the same, in which case,
the declared value, with an additional ten per cent., is paid to the
owner.
As a general guide, it is recommended that the _cost price_ be given
to Mr. Hill, and that he be left to estimate the duty, his great
experience qualifying him to do so.
Cotton must not be used for packing goods of any description by the
Overland Route; it occasions great difficulty, and subjects them to
seizure, under the quarantine laws.
Ad valorem duty.
£ s. d.
MUSLINS, embroidered per cent. 15 0 0
BOMBAY MANUFACTURE, cases or boxes, of
similar description per cent. 10 0 0
BROCADE, of gold and silver " 10 0 0
ARTICLES OF WOOL manufactured, made up " 10 0 0
WOOLLEN MANUFACTURES, broad stuffs free
IVORY MANUFACTURES, or tortoise-shell and
furniture per cent. 10 0 0
CONDIMENTS, CURRY, &c. " 10 0 0
GRASS-CLOTH " 10 0 0
MANUFACTURED SKINS £10 and B. P. 5 0 0
UNMANUFACTURED SKINS free
SHAWLS, Cachmere £10 and B. P. 5 0 0
MUSLIN, plain free
SKINS, tiger, dressed free
FEATHERS, ostrich, dressed, per lb. £1 10s. and £5 per cent.
" undressed free
PADDY-BIRD 1s. and £5 per cent.
If several are put together, and can be called
manufactured, on value per cent. 10 0 0
CIGARS per lb. 9s. and £5 per cent.
SNUFF " 6s. and £5 per cent.
SILVER 1s. 6d. per oz., and on value £10 per cent. 0 10 0
SWEETMEATS B. P. 1d. per lb., foreign 0 0 6
PICKLES, in vinegar per gall. 0 0 4
" or vegetables, in salt and water £5 per cent.
£ s. d.
AGATES or CORNELIANS, not set free
" " set or cut 10 0 0
BOOKS, of editions printed prior to 1801, the
cwt. £1 and £5 per cent.
" of editions printed in or since 1801, in
foreign living languages £2 10s. "
" in the dead languages, or in the English
language, printed out of England
in or since 1801 £5 and "
(_N.B. Pirated editions of English
works, of which the copyright exists
in England, are totally prohibited._)
BOOKS, English, printed in England (unless
declared that no excise drawback was
received on exportation) per cwt. £5 and £5 per cent.
CAMEOS per cent. 5 0 0
CHINA or PORCELAIN, plain or white { 10 0 0
" " painted or gilt {
CIGARS (under 3 lb. only allowed in a passenger's
baggage) from the Continent the lb. 0 9 0
Under 7 lb. allowed from East Indies.
(_N.B. If a greater quantity, a declaration
required that they are for private
use, and a petition to Customs for
permission to import._)
CLOCKS (must have maker's name on face and
on works) per cent. 10 0 0
WATCHES, (ditto ditto) £10 and £5 per cent.
CORDIALS and LIQUEURS (for the bottles, see
WINE) per gal. 1 10 4
COTTON, articles made up of
per cent. £10 and B. P. 5 0 0
EAU DE COLOGNE, in flasks the flask 0 1 0
(_N.B. If in other than ordinary flasks,
30s. 4d. the gal. and the bottle-duty._)
EMBROIDERY and NEEDLEWORK per cent. 15 0 0
FLOWER ROOTS " free
FLOWERS, Artificial " 25 0 0
FURNITURE " 10 0 0
FRAMES, for pictures, &c. £10 and £5 per cent.
FURS and SKINS DRESSED, made up
£10 and P. B. 5 0 0
" " in pieces, not made up free
GLASS, flint or cut 2d. per lb.
JEWELLERY per cent. 10 0 0
JAPANNED or LACQUERED WARE " 10 0 0
MAPS or CHARTS, plain or coloured,
each map or part thereof free
MAGNA GRÆCIA WARE, or ancient earthen vases free
MEDALS, silver, or any sort "
MODELS, of cork or wood "
MINERALS and Fossils, or specimens of "
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS 10 0 0
MOCK PEARLS 10 0 0
MARBLE, manufactured the cwt. 3s. and 5 0 0
and B. P. 0 1 6
MOSAIC WORK, STONE and SLATE hewn per ton
10s. and per cent. 5 0 0
and from B. P. 1s. and 11s. per cent.
" small ornaments for jewellery, per cent. 10 0 0
PRINTS and DRAWINGS, plain or coloured, single
each 1d. and £5 per cent.
" bound or sewn the dozen 3d. "
PICTURES each 1s. 0d. "
" and further, the square foot 1s. "
" being 200 square feet and upwards
each £10 and £5 per cent.
PAINTINGS ON GLASS the superficial foot 0 0 9
PLATE, of gold or silver, gilt or ungilt, per
cent. £10 and £5 per cent.
" also the stamp-duty. If intended for
sale, it must be assayed, under the
penalties and forfeiture regulating the
standard for plate in England per oz. 0 1 6
SEEDS, garden the lb. free
SILK, MILLINERY, turbans or caps each 0 3 6
" " hats or bonnets " 0 7 0
" " dresses " 1 10 0
SILK HANGINGS, and other manufactures of silk
per cent. 15 0 0
TOYS £10 and £5 per cent.
VELVET, plain (produce of Europe) the lb. 0 9 0
" figured " " 0 9 0
" otherwise £15 per cent.
WINE and SPIRITS, viz.:--
Wine, in casks, all except Cape, the
gallon, 5s. 6d. and £5 per cent.
" in bottles, six to the gallon,
5s. 6d. and £5 per cent.
and further, on the bottles the cwt. 0 0 9
SPIRITS, in casks, must not be imported under
twenty gallons the gal. 1 2 10
" in bottles, the additional duty for the
bottles, as wine bottles.
THE FOLLOWING MAY BE IMPORTED FREE OF DUTY.
BULLION, COINS and MEDALS of gold or
silver, and battered PLATE.
DIAMONDS.
LIVE CREATURES, and other specimens illustrative of Natural
History.
PICTURES, SKETCHES and DRAWINGS, on a
declaration by the proprietor (being a British subject), that they are
of his or her performance and not intended for sale.
PLANTS and TREES, alive.
SPECIMENS OF MINERALS, FOSSILS or ORES.
APPENDIX (C).
It may be useful, as a reference, to give the distances of the
different stations in India from each presidency.
-----------------+------------------------------+
| Miles distant from |
STATIONS. +-----------+--------+---------+
| Calcutta. | Madras.| Bombay. |
-----------------+-----------+------------------+
Agra | 796 | 1238 | 755 |
Ahmedabad | 1219 | 1050 | 354 |
Ahmednuggur | 1033 | 664 | 162 |
Ahtoor | 1232 | 186 | 779 |
Ajmere | 1035 | 1272 | 677 |
Akola | 829 | 694 | 349 |
Akulcote | 1185 | 557 | 269 |
Akyab | 548 | 1611 | 1745 |
Allahabad | 498 | 1151 | 831 |
Alleppee | 1475 | 470 | 805 |
Allyghur | 816 | 1321 | 810 |
Allynuggur | 416 | 1139 | 920 |
Almorah | 896 | 1443 | 1013 |
Amulnair | 1078 | 829 | 231 |
Anantapore | 1068 | 293 | 507 |
Anjunwel | 1240 | 636 | 149 |
Anopshuhur | 856 | 1329 | 866 |
Arcot | 1085 | 71 | 715 |
Arnee | 1104 | 81 | 732 |
Arracan | 462 | 980 | 1647 |
Arrah | 381 | 1367 | 1033 |
Aska | 399 | 707 | 1040 |
Asseeghur | 909 | 779 | 313 |
Ava | 851 | 1280 | 1947 |
Avanashy | 1293 | 289 | 735 |
Aurungabad | 963 | 690 | 215 |
Azimghur | 475 | 1220 | 977 |
Backergunge | 183 | 1246 | 1368 |
Bagapully | 1151 | 218 | 566 |
Bair | 364 | 1339 | 1105 |
Baitool | 789 | 834 | 433 |
Balasore | 145 | 922 | 1192 |
Bancoorah | 101 | 1062 | 1223 |
Banda | 613 | 1102 | 771 |
Bangalore | 1161 | 205 | 633 |
Baraset | 15 | 1078 | 1202 |
Bareilly | 782 | 1329 | 918 |
Baroda | 1230 | 997 | 281 |
Barrackpore | 16 | 1079 | 1201 |
Bassein | 1221 | 784 | 32 |
Beana | 1050 | 1292 | 808 |
Beauleah | 145 | 1135 | 1345 |
Behar | 340 | 1324 | 1120 |
Beerbhoom | 127 | 1118 | 1279 |
Bejapore | 1173 | 482 | 280 |
Belgaum | 1294 | 519 | 318 |
Bellary | 1090 | 316 | 446 |
Benares | 428 | 1151 | 927 |
Berhampore | 118 | 1138 | 1290 |
Berhampore (Mad.)| 382 | 682 | 1015 |
Beawur | 1000 | 1287 | 692 |
Bezoarah | 786 | 275 | 603 |
Bhaugulpore | 268 | 1288 | 1202 |
Bhewndy | 202 | 774 | 34 |
Bhilsah | 877 | 973 | 521 |
Bhoolooah | 293 | 1356 | 1478 |
Bhooj | 1324 | 1281 | 587 |
Bhopawur | 1024 | 1095 | 449 |
Bhopaul | 848 | 944 | 492 |
Bimlipatam | 540 | 518 | 851 |
Bishnawth | 627 | 1647 | 1719 |
Biznore | 905 | 1420 | 957 |
Bogra | 246 | 1266 | 1427 |
Bolarum | 972 | 408 | 444 |
Bombay | 1185 | 763 | 0 |
Bolundshuhur | 857 | 1335 | 872 |
Broach | 1228 | 927 | 231 |
Bugwah | 332 | 1352 | 1359 |
Burdwan | 75 | 1066 | 1227 |
Burkaghur | 209 | 1256 | 1162 |
Buxar | 446 | 1222 | 988 |
Cabool | 1815 | 2134 | 1700 |
Cachar | 398 | 1461 | 1583 |
Calcutta | 0 | 1062 | 1185 |
Calicut | 1374 | 418 | 672 |
Calimere Point | 1283 | 224 | 925 |
Callian | 1178 | 760 | 36 |
Calpee | 657 | 1168 | 803 |
Cambay | 1253 | 998 | 250 |
Canara | 1350 | 436 | 524 |
Candahar | 2047 | 2157 | 1394 |
Candy | 1250 | 576 | 1277 |
Canuanore | 1375 | 419 | 613 |
Carangoly | 1109 | 49 | 777 |
Caroor | 1272 | 258 | 799 |
Cashepore | 872 | 1418 | 946 |
Cashmere | 1564 | 1882 | 1250 |
Cawnpore | 628 | 1200 | 854 |
Chandernagore | 22 | 1085 | 1207 |
Chandore | 1082 | 798 | 150 |
Chatterpore | 686 | 1071 | 702 |
Chicacole | 498 | 567 | 900 |
Chingleput | 1095 | 36 | 767 |
Chinsurah | 28 | 1098 | 1218 |
Chirra Poonjee | 360 | 1423 | 1545 |
Chittagong | 342 | 1405 | 1557 |
Chittledroog | 1175 | 343 | 496 |
Chittoor | 1079 | 96 | 685 |
Chitwye | 1410 | 390 | 726 |
Chunar | 433 | 1146 | 952 |
Chundpore | 718 | 1259 | 894 |
Chuprah | 400 | 1291 | 1056 |
Cochin | 1441 | 437 | 772 |
Coimbatore | 1319 | 315 | 746 |
Colgong | 250 | 1270 | 1368 |
Combaconum | 1246 | 187 | 888 |
Comercolly | 124 | 1197 | 1304 |
Comorin Cape | 1770 | 440 | 830 |
Condapilly | 797 | 285 | 599 |
Conjeveram | 1086 | 46 | 742 |
Contai | 80 | 980 | 1226 |
Coochbehar | 342 | 1362 | 1369 |
Coomreah | 72 | 1196 | 1348 |
Coorg | 1328 | 372 | 676 |
Coringa | 674 | 374 | 783 |
Cotamputty | 1304 | 250 | 885 |
Cotapuramba | 1355 | 400 | 637 |
Cotyam | 1495 | 490 | 825 |
Covilputty | 1281 | 236 | 862 |
Cuddalore | 1170 | 110 | 816 |
Cuddapah | 1007 | 166 | 569 |
Culnah | 52 | 1122 | 1368 |
Culneah | 118 | 1181 | 1303 |
Cumbum | 919 | 223 | 617 |
Cuttack | 251 | 815 | 1151 |
Dacca | 187 | 1250 | 1372 |
Damaun | 1209 | 861 | 128 |
Dapoolie | 1206 | 622 | 121 |
Darjeeling | 343 | 1373 | 1441 |
Deesa | 1300 | 1147 | 451 |
Delhi | 900 | 1372 | 868 |
Deyrah Dhoon | 967 | 1492 | 1008 |
Dharwar | 1299 | 468 | 351 |
Dhoolia | 1055 | 806 | 208 |
Dhummow | 681 | 975 | 654 |
Dhurrungaum | 1087 | 780 | 236 |
Diamond Harbour | 30 | 1028 | 1176 |
Dinajepore | 259 | 1289 | 1357 |
Dinapore | 376 | 1337 | 1072 |
Dindigul | 1315 | 270 | 819 |
Dum-Dum | 8 | 1071 | 1193 |
Durbangah | 424 | 1374 | |
Ellichpore | 796 | 736 | 433 |
Ellore | 748 | 315 | 648 |
Errode | 1258 | 253 | 758 |
Eta | 773 | 1319 | 856 |
Etawah | 719 | 1221 | 764 |
Ferozepore | 1150 | 1695 | 1170 |
French Rocks | 1236 | 287 | 626 |
Furreedpore | 128 | 1194 | 1313 |
Furruckabad | 711 | 1252 | 897 |
Futtyghur | 711 | 1252 | 897 |
Futtypore | 580 | 1157 | 821 |
Galle, Point de | 1380 | 576 | 1277 |
Ganjam | 382 | 699 | 1302 |
Ghazeepore | 431 | 1209 | 974 |
Goa | 1359 | 573 | 318 |
Golconda | 907 | 358 | 475 |
Goomsoor | 425 | 760 | 1097 |
Goorgong | 924 | 1396 | 892 |
Gopaulpore | 374 | | 1022 |
Goruckpore | 525 | 1273 | 1038 |
Ghooty | 1036 | 262 | 500 |
Gowahatty | 502 | 1522 | 1594 |
Gowalparah | 425 | 1445 | 1517 |
Gunga Khair | 918 | 570 | 301 |
Guntoor | 807 | 255 | 617 |
Gwalior | 782 | 1164 | 680 |
Gya | 289 | 1270 | 1069 |
Hajeepoor | 1118 | 1687 | 1161 |
Hameepore | 629 | 1142 | 867 |
Hansi | 995 | 1476 | 880 |
Haupper | 880 | 1350 | 895 |
Hazareebaugh | 239 | 1200 | 1166 |
Heerapore | 730 | 1014 | 659 |
Herat | 2595 | 2510 | 1747 |
Hidjelee | 80 | 980 | 1226 |
Hingolee | 885 | 608 | 373 |
Hissar | 1015 | 1496 | 900 |
Hooghly | 28 | 1098 | 1218 |
Honore | 1372 | 546 | 414 |
Hosheyapore | 1148 | 1647 | 1121 |
Hospett | 1129 | 355 | 424 |
Hurryhur | 1203 | 393 | 446 |
Hursole | 1273 | 1053 | 358 |
Hussingabad | 864 | 900 | 460 |
Hydrabad (Deccan)| 972 | 398 | 434 |
Do. (Scinde) | 1626 | 1541 | 778 |
Incollo | 848 | 215 | 634 |
Inchura | 44 | 1192 | 1228 |
Indore | 970 | 975 | 374 |
Injeram | 674 | 374 | 783 |
Jansee | 766 | 1001 | 400 |
Jaulnah | 932 | 651 | 253 |
Jaunpore | 466 | 1168 | 933 |
Jeagunghe | 125 | 1145 | 1337 |
Jelalabad | 734 | 1275 | 910 |
Jelasore | 112 | 951 | 1159 |
Jessore | 40 | 1141 | 1263 |
Jeypore | 933 | 1340 | 745 |
Joudpore | 1249 | 1316 | 696 |
Joynagore | 139 | 1192 | |
Jubulpore | 700 | 879 | 674 |
Juggernauth | 297 | 766 | 1102 |
Jumalpore | 301 | 1321 | 1479 |
Kaira | 1204 | 1029 | 334 |
Kalladghee | 1223 | 453 | 314 |
Kamptee | 686 | 722 | 547 |
Kangra | 1200 | 1798 | 1170 |
Karicaul | 1231 | 175 | 876 |
Kedgeree | 64 | 994 | 1210 |
Khandala | 1149 | 700 | 56 |
Kharwarah | 1004 | 721 | 127 |
Khasalpore | 91 | 1144 | 1328 |
Khatmandoo | 560 | 1470 | 1215 |
Khyouk Phyoo | 648 | 1711 | 1845 |
Kircumbady | 1027 | 82 | 680 |
Kirkee | 1110 | 670 | 87 |
Kishnaghur | 64 | 1114 | 1249 |
Kishore | 980 | 1186 | 587 |
Kolapore | 1245 | 600 | 220 |
Kotah | 971 | 1161 | 562 |
Kulladghee | 1223 | 453 | 314 |
Kurnaul | 978 | 1477 | 952 |
Kurnool | 988 | 289 | 542 |
Kurrachee | 1750 | 1596 | 833 |
Kurturpore | 1148 | 1647 | 1211 |
Lahore | 1356 | 1675 | 1130 |
Landour | 980 | 1505 | 1021 |
Lohoogaut | 950 | 1497 | 1067 |
Loodianah | 1103 | 1602 | 1077 |
Luckeepore | 270 | 1379 | 1591 |
Lucknow | 619 | 1253 | 907 |
Madapollum | 733 | 327 | 698 |
Madras | 1063 | 0 | 763 |
Madura | 1337 | 292 | 858 |
Mahableshur | 1163 | 639 | 130 |
Mahidpore | 1028 | 1033 | 432 |
Malcolm Peyt | 1163 | 639 | 130 |
Maldah | 191 | 1211 | 1288 |
Malwa | 1400 | 616 | 278 |
Malabar | 1374 | 418 | 672 |
Malligaum | 1058 | 774 | 176 |
Mangalore | 1359 | 436 | 524 |
Manuntoddy | 1317 | 362 | 707 |
Masulipatam | 797 | 285 | 654 |
Meerut | 906 | 1405 | 912 |
Mercara | 1328 | 372 | 676 |
Mhar | 1257 | 655 | 107 |
Mhow | 980 | 961 | 360 |
Midnapore | 69 | 994 | 1116 |
Mirzapore | 455 | 1124 | 890 |
Mithenkote | 1345 | 1840 | 1077 |
Mokeran | 1580 | 1682 | 1156 |
Mominabad | 980 | 551 | 269 |
Monghyr | 304 | 1324 | 1163 |
Moorshedabad | 118 | 1138 | 1290 |
Moradabad | 842 | 1388 | 916 |
Moulmein | 928 | 1176 | 1939 |
Mozuffernuggur | 942 | 1441 | 951 |
Mow | 726 | 1111 | 742 |
Muctul | 1060 | 349 | 420 |
Mukhi | 1183 | 1682 | 1157 |
Mundeysir | 1012 | 858
Showing first 200,000 characters. Full text: gutenberg.org/ebooks/45706