The Motor Routes of England: Western Section
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Title: The Motor Routes of England: Western Section
Author: Gordon Home
Contributor: Charles Henry Ashdown
Release date: July 18, 2013 [eBook #43246]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024
Language: English
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND: WESTERN SECTION ***
Transcriber's Note:
Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
Italic text is denoted by _underscores_, bold text by =equal
signs=, and spaced text by ~tildes~.
Four advertisements originally at the front of this book were moved to
join the rest of the advertisements at the back.
THE MOTOR ROUTES
OF ENGLAND
WESTERN SECTION
ALREADY PUBLISHED
IN THE SAME SERIES
MOTOR ROUTES
OF ENGLAND
_SOUTHERN SECTION_
(South of the Thames)
With 24 Illustrations in Colour
'The touring motorist ... will find Mr. Home exactly the
sort of companion who will add sensibly to the pleasures of
the day's run. All along the main roads he gossips brightly
of history, architecture, and archæology, and manages to
convey a large amount of information without being
unpleasantly didactic.'
_Pall Mall Gazette._
THE MOTOR ROUTES
OF FRANCE
_TO THE CHÂTEAUX COUNTRY,
BIARRITZ, THE PYRENEES,
THE RIVIERA, AND THE
RHONE VALLEY_
Containing 16 full-page Illustrations in Colour, 16 in Black
and White, and 63 Maps and Plans
'A guide-book of a modern and very superior kind; eminently
practical, admirably concise, sufficiently detailed and
comprehensive, and, in addition, beautifully illustrated
and bound.'--_Standard._
'The traveller who has this work for a companion may feel
assured that he will miss little of interest or importance
along the way.'--_Westminster Gazette._
A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON
AGENTS
AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK
AUSTRALASIA OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS
205 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE
CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD.
ST. MARTIN'S HOUSE, 70 BOND STREET, TORONTO
INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD.
MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY
309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA
GERMANY, AUSTRIA-HUNGARY, }
RUSSIA, SCANDINAVIA, AND } BROCKHAUS AND PEHRSSON
GERMAN SWITZERLAND } 16 QUERSTRASSE, LEIPZIG
[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF BETTWS-Y-COED.]
THE
MOTOR ROUTES
OF ENGLAND
BY
GORDON HOME
(_ASSISTED BY CHARLES H. ASHDOWN_)
WESTERN SECTION
WITH
16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR, AND
16 TOWN PLANS AND 26 ROUTE MAPS
ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
SOHO SQUARE, LONDON · MCMXI
PREFACE
There have been many inquiries for this new volume of the 'Motor
Routes of England,' which I should have been glad to publish a year
ago had the necessary time been at my disposal. Finding that there was
little chance of getting the book out even this year, I obtained the
help of Mr. Charles H. Ashdown, who has written a considerable portion
of the letterpress under my supervision. We motored over a great part
of the routes together last year, and part of North Wales, which I had
no time to visit, Mr. Ashdown motored through in my car without me.
Although he knew the country intimately, I thought it better, from the
motorist's point of view, that he should go through the district
afresh. I hope, therefore, that, having taken great pains to give the
latest available information, this book will prove of use to all who
take their cars into Wales and those parts of England which are
included.
As in the previous volumes of this series, I am greatly indebted to
the Secretary of the Touring Department of the Royal Automobile Club
for his exceedingly kind assistance in working out the routes. They
are planned on the accumulated experience of a great many members of
the club, who have placed their knowledge at the disposal of their
fellow-members.
My experience of the Daimler 38 h.-p. car in which we toured through
the greater part of Wales and the adjoining English counties was, as
before, entirely satisfactory. We never had to give a thought to the
running of the car in the hundreds of miles of mountainous roads we
traversed.
Although the route maps accompanying the text are generally sufficient
for all the ordinary needs of the touring motorist, I do not think it
desirable to travel without the sheets of Bartholomew's
half-an-inch-to-the-mile reduced survey maps. The coloured contours
are of such service in showing the chief features of the surrounding
country that I always feel happier with them. The sheets required for
this book are numbered 8, 11, 12, 16, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 28,
29, 30.
I have been asked by those who have used the previous volumes of this
series to give a list of hotels, and in that printed at the end of
this book I give the names of those hotels I can recommend. I shall be
exceedingly grateful to any reader who discovers any inaccuracies in
this book if he will be kind enough to let me hear of them.
GORDON HOME.
43, GLOUCESTER STREET,
WARWICK SQUARE,
LONDON, S.W.
_May 1, 1911._
CONTENTS
TRUNK ROUTE
SECTION PAGE
I. LONDON TO DUNSTABLE, 32 MILES 1
II. DUNSTABLE TO ATHERSTONE, 72½ MILES 18
III. ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY, 59 MILES 29
LOOP No. 1
(a) SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 39½ MILES 38
(b) CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 35½ MILES 52
(c) RHYL TO SHREWSBURY, 86½ MILES 61
TRUNK ROUTE
IV. SHREWSBURY TO LLANDUDNO, 81½ MILES 75
V. LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR, 18¾ MILES 89
LOOP No. 2
BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED, 20¼ MILES 98
TRUNK ROUTE
VI. Bangor to Dolgelley, 65¾ Miles 103
LOOP No. 3
DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN, 40 MILES 119
LOOP No. 4
CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG, 49¾ MILES 127
TRUNK ROUTE
VII. DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG, 48¼ MILES 134
LOOP No. 5
(a) TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S, 117¼ MILES 142
(b) ST. DAVID'S TO HEREFORD, 132¼ MILES 162
TRUNK ROUTE
VIII. LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY, 68 MILES 180
IX. ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER, 84¼ MILES 189
LOOP No. 6
(a) HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY, 54¾ MILES 219
(b) SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD, 81¼ MILES 232
LOOP No. 7
GLOUCESTER TO BATH, MALMESBURY, EVESHAM,
TEWKESBURY, AND GLOUCESTER, 153 MILES 243
TRUNK ROUTE
X. GLOUCESTER TO OXFORD, 50 MILES 269
LOOP No. 8
OXFORD TO STRATFORD-ON-AVON, COVENTRY, BANBURY,
AND OXFORD, 110 MILES 280
TRUNK ROUTE
XI. OXFORD TO LONDON, 67½ MILES 305
TABLE OF THE SOVEREIGNS OF ENGLAND, THE CHIEF
EVENTS OF THEIR REIGNS, AND THE ARCHITECTURAL
PERIODS 320
A LIST OF MOTOR-CAR SIGNS 323
A LIST OF HOTELS 326
INDEX 327
NOTE.--Anyone wishing to plan a tour including the West of England and
Wales will find that this book joins with the Southern Section volume
at Bath and Windsor, and the large maps at the end of the books will
show other points between those places where the motorist can run from
one book into the other with only the slightest gap.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
1. Distant View of Bettws-y-Coed. _Frontispiece_
FACING PAGE
2. Lichfield Cathedral 32
3. Shrewsbury House, Chester 65
4. Swallow Falls, near Bettws-y-Coed 72
5. Conway from Benarth 89
6. Conway Valley 96
7. Distant View of Penmaenmawr 113
8. Snowdon from Traeth Mawr 120
9. Hereford Cathedral from the Banks of the Wye 176
10. The Wye, Symond's Yat, near Monmouth, Herefordshire 185
11. Coming Night, near Beddgelert 201
12. Tintern Abbey 208
13. Church Porch at Northleach 281
14. Stratford-on-Avon 288
15. Ford's Hospital, Coventry 297
16. Magdalen Tower and Bridge, Oxford 304
_Map showing the whole of the routes at the end of volume._
LIST OF PLANS
PAGE
1. St. Albans 7
2. Dunstable 16
3. Shrewsbury 77
4. Chester 44
5. Conway 91
6. Carnarvon 106
7. Hereford 177
8. Worcester 237
9. Gloucester 212
10. Tewkesbury 265
11. Cheltenham 271
12. Oxford 307
13. Warwick 291
14. Leamington 294
15. Coventry 299
16. Bath 251
Chester Cathedral 46
Valle Crucis Abbey 72
Carnarvon Castle 107
St. David's Cathedral 159
Gloucester Cathedral 215
THE
MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND
WESTERN SECTION
SECTION I
(TRUNK ROUTE)
THE HOLYHEAD ROAD
LONDON TO DUNSTABLE, 32 MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=London-Marble Arch= to Elstree 11½
=Elstree= to St. Albans 8
=St. Albans= to Dunstable 12½
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
From the =Marble Arch= to =Elstree= the surface is very good, in spite
of trams for part of the way.
=Elstree= to =St. Albans=.--A hilly but good road.
=St. Albans.=--Speed limit, 10 miles per hour; dangerous cross-roads
in centre of town.
=St. Albans= to =Dunstable=.--Excellent surface, almost level.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Edgware.=--An old-fashioned village.
=Elstree.=--A charmingly situated village, overlooking Aldenham Park.
The road through Highgate, Finchley, and Barnet passes the following
places on the way to St. Albans:
=Chipping Barnet.=--A growing town, much modernized; church,
Perpendicular style, but recently almost entirely rebuilt.
=Monken Hadley.=--A pretty village; interesting church with cradle
beacon affixed to tower; obelisk of Battle of Barnet.
=South Mimms.=--Small village; Perpendicular church, with traces of
Early English; the Frowyke Chapel, with effigy.
=Salisbury Hall.=--A sixteenth-century moated grange.
=St. Albans.=--Cathedral, Early Norman (1077) to Decorated, of
exceptional interest; great gateway of the monastery; Roman walls of
_Verulamium_ and British causeway; medieval clock-tower; sites of the
two battles; St. Michael's Church, Saxon, with monument of Bacon; old
timbered houses.
=Redbourne.=--Small village; church, Norman and Early English; fine
chancel screen.
=Dunstable.=--Ancient town, with earthworks; Priory Church, Transition
Norman, impressive west front.
THE STARTING-POINT
The best and most direct route from London to the finest scenery in
Wales, as well as to many of the most picturesque towns and districts
in the western half of the central or midland portion of England, is
the Holyhead Road. The older route books invariably give the General
Post Office as the best starting-point, and this has been indicated
on the route map on this page, and that road beyond Barnet is
described, but as the Edgware Road is so much preferable in many ways,
the distances by that way are given at the head of this section. From
the Marble Arch the road goes as straight as an arrow, passing through
Maida Vale, Brondesbury, and Cricklewood. The Welsh Harp Reservoir is
crossed, and the villages of Edgware and Elstree passed through, and
the road from Barnet is joined at St. Albans.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 1. LONDON TO DUNSTABLE.]
By the older route shown in the map the first open country is not
reached until Barnet is passed. Barnet itself is now a suburban town
without any interest.
MONKEN HADLEY
Upon leaving Barnet, a slight detour to the right, occupying a few
minutes, leads to Monken Hadley Church, of varied styles of
architecture. It stands upon high ground near the road, and is
picturesquely surrounded by trees and pleasantly situated old houses
on a village green. The iron cradle beacon affixed to the tower is an
object of great rarity. It was used in past times to signal the
approach of disturbers of the peace. A tall obelisk near the church
was erected early in the eighteenth century to mark the site of the
battlefield of Barnet, 1471, immortalized in Bulwer Lytton's 'Last of
the Barons,' and memorable for the death of the great King-maker. A
road with a few easy turns in it leads back to the main route. It
passes ~Wrotham Park~, the seat of the Rev. the Earl of Strafford, whose
family name is Byng. Within one of the rooms the oak cabin of the
flag-ship once occupied by Admiral Byng has been erected, conveyed
thither when the vessel was broken up. Since 1757, when the Admiral
was shot upon his own quarter-deck, _pour encourager les autres_, no
Byng has entered the navy, the family having transferred its
allegiance to the army as a mild protest.
SOUTH MIMMS
The church contains traces of Early English architecture, but the main
features are Perpendicular. In the Frowyke Chapel, separated from the
church by a Perpendicular parclose screen, is a well-preserved effigy
of the Transition period and an interesting brass let in the floor.
The door to the vanished rood-loft is in good condition, and a
low-side window may be found in the chancel. Thomas de Frowyke, died
1448, is buried under the tower; the inscription states that six sons
and twelve daughters furnished the matrimonial quiver. The
ecclesiologist with time upon his hands will find an interesting
church at North Mimms, about two miles across country (see map),
standing in the grounds of an Elizabethan mansion. From South Mimms a
long and easy ascent leads to the summit of Ridge Hill, where the
massive tower of St. Alban's fane comes into view in the midst of a
beautiful landscape. An equally long and easy descent leads to a turn,
where a cottage stands upon the left, at some white gates. This is the
entrance to ~Salisbury Hall~, a picturesque moated grange of exceptional
interest, with quaint gables, twisted chimneys, and beautiful
surroundings. Originally built in the time of Henry VIII. by Sir John
Cutts, Treasurer of England, it subsequently was occupied by the
well-known Sir Jeremy Snow. Nell Gwynn was often here, recouping from
Court revels, and tradition asserts that Prince Charles sought refuge
within its walls after the Battle of Worcester. Visitors are generally
permitted to walk up to the farmyard to see the front of the house. At
~London Colney~ a piece of water is crossed. ~Tyttenhanger~ lies to the
right, at a distance of about two miles; it was the country house of
the Abbots of St. Albans, and has been adapted to modern requirements.
The road from here to St. Albans is easy, but care should be exercised
at the cross-roads in the centre of the town, where a policeman
generally regulates traffic.
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 1--ST. ALBANS.]
ST. ALBANS
A walk through the cloisters opposite the Great Red Lion Hotel affords
a striking view of a considerable part of the vast Abbey Church, the
most ancient of the great churches in England. It stands upon higher
ground than any other cathedral in the British Isles, and is the
longest next to Winchester. It possesses, moreover, the longest Gothic
nave in the world. The Norman tower, dating from 1077, is composed of
Roman bricks from the neighbouring _Verulamium_, and flints, bricks,
and stone from the same site may be detected in the walls. The walk
leads round to the southern part of the church, through the ancient
sumpter-yard, with its fine old cedar, and thence to the west front,
the site of the demolished monastery showing in irregular heaps upon
the left.
_The nave is open to the public free of charge. Sixpence is charged
for entrance to the eastern portions (threepence each for a party of
ten). Open from_--
_November 1 to February 28_ _10 a.m. to 4 p.m._
_March 1 to April 30_ } _10 a.m. to 5 p.m._
_September 16 to October 31_ }
_May 1 to September 15_ _10 a.m. to 6 p.m._
_Building Dates._
_Roman Period._--St. Alban was executed upon this spot, presumably in
the amphitheatre, in 303, and a church was erected to his memory by
the Christians of Verulam in 313, which was still standing in Bede's
time.
793. Offa the Great, King of Mercia, founded the monastery, and either
repaired and enlarged the Romano-British church or built a new one.
1077. Shortly after the Conquest, Paul de Caen, a relative of
Lanfranc, was appointed the first Norman abbot, and proceeded to
demolish the church, subsequently erecting a great Norman building in
its place, the remains of which--viz., the tower, transepts, parts of
the nave and the presbytery--still remain.
On entering by the west front, which has been rebuilt by Lord
Grimthorpe, the first part of the nave is Early English, dating from
_c._ 1214, and one of the best examples in England. Farther on Norman
bays, dating from 1077, are upon the north, while opposite them are
Decorated Gothic bays, built _c._ 1323 to replace the Norman work
which had fallen. The screen has been despoiled; it was erected in
1350. Passing through the door, the abbot's entrance from the
cloisters is seen upon the right, and the south transept is reached,
having a curious feature, the slype of Transition Norman work at the
south end. The tower dates from 1077, and is the largest and heaviest
of the Norman towers now remaining in England. Eight of the baluster
columns round the triforia are from the former Saxon church, and date
from 793. The choir-stalls are new, and above them is a remarkable
ceiling, the panels dating from 1368 to 1450. The north transept is
the reputed site of St. Alban's martyrdom. In the presbytery is the
high-altar screen, only rivalled by that at Winchester, and dating
from 1484. It is the work of Abbot Wallingford, was despoiled at the
Reformation, and recently restored by the late Lord Aldenham. South of
it lies the chantry tomb of Abbot Wheathampstead, and north that of
Abbot Ramryge. Leaving by the north door, the presbytery aisle is
reached, partly Norman and partly Early English. The old doors from
the west front preserved here date from the time of Henry VI.
Proceeding eastwards, the entrance to the Saint's Chapel is on the
right. Here is the far-famed shrine of St. Alban, or rather the
pedestal of the shrine, since the shrine itself was portable, and
rested upon the top of the structure. It dates from 1306, was
demolished in 1539, and built up in the three lancets at the east end
of the chapel. When the arches were opened some time since, the
fragments were recovered and put together. The tomb of Humphrey, Duke
of Gloucester (died, or murdered, 1447; see Shakespeare, _Henry VI._,
Part II.), stands on the south of the chapel; the coffin may be seen
by raising the trap-door. On the north side is the Watching Gallery,
where a monk sat to guard the shrine and its treasures. It dates from
_c._ 1400. There is only one other in England.
Leaving by the north door again, the shrine of St. Amphibalus, dating
from 1350, is seen. It was likewise demolished at the Reformation. The
Lady Chapel and its ante-chapel were erected between 1260 and 1320,
and exhibit Early English and Decorated architecture. They have been
restored under Lord Grimthorpe. Forty nobles who fell in the first
Battle of St. Albans are interred here. At the Reformation the chapels
were converted into school premises for St. Albans Grammar School, and
used as such for 300 years. The stone carving is particularly
beautiful. Passing out by the south door, an altar slab is seen, with
its five crosses; a grille, dating from _c._ 1270, which is the only
trellis screen in England; and upon the south the openings to former
external chapels. In the Wheathampstead Chapel may be seen the brass
of Abbot de la Mare (1349 to 1396), reputed to be the finest
ecclesiastical brass in existence.
The ~Great Gateway of the Monastery~, opposite to the west front of the
Abbey Church, dates from 1361, and now forms part of St. Albans
Grammar School, one of the oldest, if not _the_ oldest, scholastic
foundations in the kingdom. It was probably founded in the reign of
King Edred, about 948, and among the eminent personages attending it
have been Alexander Nequam, foster-brother of Richard I.; Matthew
Paris, who left the school in 1217 and entered the monastery; Sir John
Mandeville, the famous writer of his supposed travels, who lies buried
in the abbey; and Nicholas Breakspere, born in 1090, who subsequently
became Pope of Rome, the only Englishman who has attained to that
dignity. In 1195 the school was the largest in England. In 1381 the
gates were forced by the rioters in Wat Tyler's rebellion and the
precincts of the monastery invaded; and in 1480 the third
printing-press in England was set up in the building. Among
post-Reformation scholars one of the most distinguished was Francis
Bacon.
At the bottom of the lane leading from the monastery gateway is the
well-known Fighting Cocks Inn, reputed to be the oldest inhabited
house in Britain, and a few steps from it the River Ver. Crossing the
stream, the British causeway is reached, one of the most ancient
earthworks in Great Britain, and the Roman walls lie just beyond. The
visitor here stands upon soil which recalls memories of the earliest
period in the chronology of English history.
~Verulamium.~--At the time of Cæsar's invasion, 54 B.C., Cassivelaunus
was ruling over a great tract of country, with his capital at
_Verulamium_, the home of a long line of ancestors. The Roman general
captured the city and exacted tribute. In A.D. 42 the town submitted
to the Romans under Aulus Plautius, but was sacked and burnt by
Boadicea and her followers in A.D. 61. Rebuilt and fortified with
walls and towers, it was the first Roman city built in Britain. Its
area is 203 acres. In A.D. 58 Nero made it a _municipium_, or free
city, York being the only other town so honoured. It was essentially a
trading and residential city, and became the capital of Southern
Britain. In 303 St. Alban was led out of the gates and martyred upon
Holmhurst, where the Abbey Church was subsequently erected. By 436 the
Roman occupation had ceased, and swarms of Picts and Scots, Irish
pirates, and Northmen overran the district. Many battles were fought,
and in 516 _Verulamium_ was sacked and burnt. It served as a quarry
for many hundreds of years, yielding building materials for the
monastery and town. The only Roman theatre as yet discovered in
Britain came to light about fifty years since, and the foundations of
the largest building as yet unearthed in our islands were revealed a
few years ago. The thorough excavation of the whole site is being
mooted at the present time.
~St. Michael's Church~ is of Saxon architecture, dating from 948. It
contains an Elizabethan pulpit with hour-glass stand, and the tomb and
statue of Francis Bacon, Viscount St. Albans.
The ~Two Battles of St. Albans~ were fought in 1455 and 1461, the first
chiefly in St. Peter's Street and its byways, and the second upon
Bernard's Heath, lying to the north of St. Peter's Church, in whose
churchyard many thousands of the slain were interred.
The ~Clock Tower~ in the High Street dates from 1410, and contains a
medieval bell of beautiful workmanship, _c._ 1403, the curfew bell.
Other objects of interest in St. Albans are Sopwell Ruins, St.
Stephen's Church, and Gorhambury, two miles distant, the house of the
Bacons.
* * * * *
Shortly after leaving St. Albans by the Redbourn road, the River Ver
is crossed at Bow Bridge, and here the Watling Street from London,
which has passed through the centre of Verulam, joins the road, and
from this point until Chester is reached the way lies almost entirely
upon this great Roman artery. It is intact from London to St.
Stephen's Church, St. Albans, and, with a few gaps, from near Bow
Bridge to Chester.
At ~Redbourn~ a few quaint old houses still linger in the long, narrow
street. To reach the church, which is Norman and Early English, a turn
to the left is taken at the entrance to the village. It contains a
very fine chancel screen.
Flamstead lies half a mile off the main road, at the summit of a steep
hill. The church has recently been restored--a restoration in the true
sense of the word.
A long, steady rise through beautiful country eventually leads to
DUNSTABLE
The modern town is successor to the ancient station of _Durocobrivæ_
and a great Roman market, the _Forum Dianæ_.
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 2--DUNSTABLE.]
The district is remarkably rich in British and Roman remains: Maiden
Bower, a circular British earthwork, and Totternhoe, a combined
British and Roman fort, lie at short distances from the town (see
Map). The Watling Street is crossed here in the centre of the town by
the Icknield Way, and a piece of the Roman road was exposed near this
spot, which was 9 inches thick and intensely hard, of cemented flints
and sandstone.
Turning to the right, along Church Street (part of the Icknield Way),
the priory church, with its beautiful west front, is seen upon the
right.
~Dunstable Priory Church.~--Founded 1131, the church is but a fragment
of that which formerly stood here. Tower, transepts, chancel, and Lady
Chapel have disappeared, and even the nave, which remains, has been
curtailed. The body of Queen Eleanor rested here in 1290 upon its
progress to London; and in 1533 Archbishop Cranmer held his court in
the church, and formally divorced Queen Catherine of Aragon from the
King. The priory was dissolved in 1534. The greater part of the
building is Transition Norman, the chevron and billet ornamentation
being of excellent workmanship. The north aisle is Perpendicular. In
the chancel are ten balusters of Flemish design and execution.
Undoubtedly the great feature of the building is the exquisite west
front, which, though suffering in parts from recent restoration, still
delights the ecclesiologist. It contains four orders of architecture,
which effectually harmonize with one another.
Mr. Worthington G. Smith, the eminent local antiquary, has written a
most admirable handbook to the town, which will supplement these brief
particulars.
SECTION II
(TRUNK ROUTE)
DUNSTABLE TO ATHERSTONE, 72½ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Dunstable= to Hockliffe 4½
=Hockliffe= to Fenny Stratford 7¼
=Fenny Stratford= to Stony Stratford 7
=Stony Stratford= to Towcester 8
=Towcester= to Daventry 12¼
=Daventry= to Kilsby 5½
=Kilsby= to Lutterworth 9¾
=Lutterworth= to Cross-in-Hand 2½
=Cross-in-Hand= to High Cross 3¾
=High Cross= to Atherstone 12
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Dunstable to Daventry.=--Undulating in places, but with good surface
to Daventry.
=Daventry to Lutterworth.=--Poor road to Kilsby; 4 miles from Kilsby
an ascent of 1 in 14, followed by a descent of 1 in 12; then a
gradually improving road to Lutterworth.
=Kilsby to Atherstone.=--Undulating road, with good surface.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Fenny Stratford.=--A small town with a Georgian church.
=Stony Stratford.=--A small town with no great interest.
=Towcester.=--Easton Neston House and Park.
=Daventry.=--Small town; historic inn.
=Lutterworth.=--Quiet country town; associations with Wycliffe,
especially in the Perpendicular church, where the great Protestant's
pulpit is still to be seen.
=Cross-in-Hand.=--Roman centre for roads.
=Nuneaton.=--Two miles off the main road to the south-west; the
George Eliot country.
=Hartshill.=--Two miles off route; remains of Norman castle.
=Mancetter.=--Church, Roman camp, and manor-house.
=Atherstone.=--A small manufacturing town on the Watling Street,
without any interesting features.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 2. DUNSTABLE TO ATHERSTONE.]
Shortly after leaving Dunstable a long, easy descent of the northern
slope of the Dunstable Downs occurs, these hills being part of the
Chilterns. A fine view over a large part of Bucks and Beds is seen in
front, and an interesting sweep of the Downs behind. A number of
sleepy little villages occur, each presenting rural features of its
own in harmony with the surroundings. At Hockliffe a side-road leads
to the beautiful Woburn Park and Abbey. At ~Fenny Stratford~, a small
town chiefly consisting of one street, the Roman station of
_Magiovintum_ was situated, and coins and other remains are
frequently found; the only modern association appears to be connected
with Browne Willis, the antiquary, who is buried here. The church is
early Georgian, dating from 1724. Seven miles farther on, ~Stony
Stratford~, a small uninteresting town, is reached, known chiefly in
history through having had an Eleanor Cross, which disappeared in
Puritan days, and also from the capture of Edward V. by his uncle, the
Duke of Gloucester. ~Bradwell Abbey~, founded in 1155, now a farmhouse,
lies about three miles away to the right.
From Stony Stratford to Towcester the route runs as straight as an
arrow, and one can imagine the metalled track of the road the legions
tramped lying but a few feet beneath the surface. ~Towcester~ is the
ancient _Lactodorum_, and the later Tove Castra, or Camp on the River
Tove, which flows through the town. Few, if any, Roman remains are now
visible, and Easton Neston House with its picturesque park is the only
feature of interest in the neighbourhood.
The road to Weedon is somewhat undulating, and rises in places to 500
feet above sea-level, an altitude which has not been reached since
leaving Dunstable. At Weedon it is necessary to make a detour to the
left, as the Watling Street for some considerable distance has been
allowed to fall into disrepair; in fact, it is merely in some cases a
trackway through grassy fields, with farmers' gates across the
vanished road. The restoration of this part of the Roman way has been
proposed at times, but never carried out, the considerable cost and
the paucity of towns and villages probably accounting for it. This gap
in continuity is to be deplored for sentimental reasons, but not for
practical utility, as the track is at times more than undulating.
DAVENTRY
~Daventry~ is a small town possessing but few attractions beyond its
historic hotel, the Wheat Sheaf, built in 1610, and known in the
annals of Warwickshire as the resting-place of Charles I. (after the
taking of Leicester) for six consecutive days in 1645, the Royal
troops, both horse and foot, in considerable numbers occupying the
surrounding fields. The regal bedchamber may be seen and even
occupied, while the courtyard, famous in duelling days, is visible
from its window. In one encounter in 1696 a young ensign, named
Gardner, gasped out his life after a duel to the death with his
lieutenant. Near Daventry lies Althorp Park, the seat of Earl Spencer.
In this medieval house, not greatly altered since, James I. and
William III. were entertained.
On leaving Daventry the road turns sharply to the right to ~Kilsby~,
with a poor surface most of the way. It passes through a well-wooded
country, and a short distance beyond Kilsby joins the Watling Street
at an acute angle. Upon looking backwards, the line of the ancient
highway may be distinctly traced through the fields. From this point
until Atherstone is reached, a distance of nearly twenty-three miles,
Leicestershire lies upon the right-hand side of the road and
Warwickshire upon the left.
~Dunsmore Heath~ is then crossed, and shortly afterwards two lines of
railway are passed, the source of the Warwickshire Avon being near the
first at Dove Bridge. At Churchover is the birthplace of Cave, of
_Gentleman's Magazine_ fame. The main road from Rugby to Lutterworth
branches off to the right. Near this point, on the brow of the hill,
just north-west of Cave's Inn and on both sides of the Watling Street,
is the site of the great Roman station _Tripontium_. The remains have
almost disappeared, but pieces of pottery are plentiful, and coins are
now and then unearthed.
RUGBY
lies a few miles to the west of the main route, and is famous for its
great school, founded in 1567, being one of the four great public
schools in England. The buildings are chiefly in the Tudor style, and
date from 1808, with many subsequent additions. Besides the school,
there are practically no objects of interest in the town. The road to
Lutterworth is slightly undulating, with a good surface.
LUTTERWORTH
is a quiet little country town of about 2,000 inhabitants, lying in a
pastoral district fissured occasionally with wooded valleys. It is a
typical foxhunting centre. The main street descends a hill somewhat
abruptly, and crosses a small bridge over the River Swift, from which
point the ashes of Wycliffe were scattered. The church is endeared to
the champions of Protestantism by its associations with Wycliffe, and
by the tangible relics which are preserved in it of his residence here
from 1375 to 1384. The architecture of the church is chiefly of the
fourteenth century. The nave is early Perpendicular, but a Decorated
window occupies the end of the south aisle, where there was formerly a
Lady Chapel. The chancel also is Perpendicular, with an Early English
window and door. It is thus somewhat difficult to point out work which
belongs to that period when Wycliffe ministered in the building. The
greater part of the nave, however, may be thus assigned, and also the
fresco over the north doorway, showing a queen between two kings. Over
the chancel arch is another fresco. The nave roof is Perpendicular,
but the pulpit, from which the reformer preached, is the great object
of interest, dating as it does from a period anterior to Wycliffe's
incumbency, and is thus over 500 years old. A fragment of a cope or
chasuble is interesting as an undoubted relic, but the chair, table,
and wooden candlesticks must be regarded with suspicion--the chair
more than the others. The 'Morning Star of the Reformation' was buried
in the chancel, where his remains rested for thirty years; they were
then dug up, burnt, and cast into the river.
The road from Lutterworth, rejoining the Watling Street, emerges at
the ~Cross-in-Hand~, where care must be taken in the selection of the
right road. From Cross-in-Hand to High Cross there is nothing of
particular moment, but at the latter place, where five roads meet, was
one of the most important junctions of Roman highways for the Watling
Street. It is crossed here by the Foss Way coming from Gloucester, and
leading through Leicester to Lincoln. The great station of _Venonæ_ or
_Benones_ was situated here, but has entirely disappeared. Taking the
road marked 'To Holyhead,' the road leads over Smockington Hill, and a
few miles farther on a turning on the left to Nuneaton (two miles off
the main road) is reached.
~Nuneaton~ lies in the centre of the 'George Eliot' country, and is the
Milverton of the novelist, while Chilvers Coton near it figures in
'Scenes of Clerical Life,' and 'Oldinport' may be traced in
'Newdegate,' the family name of the residents at Arbury Hall, a
delightfully situated country-seat a few miles to the south-west of
the town. Beyond this Nuneaton possesses no special features, except a
church built in the Decorated period, and another--St. Mary's--a
modern replica of the Abbey Church which formerly occupied the site.
The spire of ~Hinckley Church~ is now seen upon the right, six miles to
the north of which lies the ~Battlefield of Bosworth~. The North
Warwickshire Coalfield has now been reached, and in the high ground
upon the left there is an interesting geological district. The stone
quarries worked there were formerly supposed to produce Millstone
Grit of the Carboniferous formation, but which has recently been
proved to be pre-Cambrian, and necessarily the most ancient of rocks.
~Hartshill~ is in this district; it is the birthplace of Michael
Drayton, and contains a few ruins of a Norman castle dating from 1125.
To the right of the Watling Street lies Fenny Drayton, where George
Fox, the founder of the sect of Quakers, was born. Before entering
Atherstone the small village of ~Witherley~ is passed upon the right,
and the River Anker here divides the site of the great Roman station
of _Manduessedum_ into two parts. The name has been anglicized into
~Mancetter~. The oblong earthwork yet remains, about 630 feet long and
440 feet broad. The church stands on the ruins of the western side of
the camp. Many coins have been found here, and great masses of Roman
masonry lie beneath the soil. The summer camps lie upon the adjacent
hills. The first turning on the left, after passing the bridge, leads
in a few minutes to Mancetter Manor House, originally built in 1135,
and presenting a quaint Edwardian appearance at the present day. In
1432 the Glovers occupied it, one of whom suffered martyrdom in the
Marian persecution.
ATHERSTONE,
a singularly uninteresting looking town, whose staple manufacture is
felt hats, has a long, straggling street, a portion of the Watling
Street, and during sewage operations about fifty years ago the remains
of the original Roman road came to light, at some depth below the
present surface; some of the paving-stones, grooved by chariot wheels,
were in places cemented together. Henry of Richmond slept at the Three
Tuns Inn, now demolished, the night before Bosworth Battle, and heard
Mass in the church, which is not of great archæological interest.
SECTION III
(TRUNK ROUTE)
ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY, 59 MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Atherstone= to Fazeley 7
=Fazeley= to Tamworth 1½
=Tamworth= to Lichfield 7
=Lichfield= to Muckley Corner 2¾
=Muckley Corner= to Four Crosses Inn 8¾
=Four Crosses Inn= to Gailey Station 2¾
=Gailey Station= to Shifnal 11¾
=Shifnal= to Oakengates 4¾
=Oakengates= to Shrewsbury 12¾
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Atherstone to Lichfield.=--Undulating road with fine surface.
=Lichfield to Shifnal.=--Almost level; surface fairly good, but the
direct road (Watling Street) is rough and has some steep hills near
Oakengates. The =Shifnal Loop= is, therefore, recommended. (See Route
Map 3.)
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Tamworth.=--An ancient town; historic castle; Perpendicular church.
=Lichfield.=--Cathedral; statue of, and associations with, Samuel
Johnson.
=Shifnal.=--Pretty town, with quaint timbered houses; church Norman,
Early English, and Decorated.
=Wroxeter.=--The Roman _Uriconium_; Roman remains.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 3. ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY.]
At ~Atherstone~ the railway is passed by a bridge, superseding a former
level-crossing. Immediately to the left a road leads to the site of
the almost demolished ~Merevale Abbey~, the chapel of which is still
used as a parish church, and contains recumbent effigies of the
Ferrers family. The road to Fazeley is undulating and uninteresting.
To the south of the town lies ~Drayton Manor~, the seat of the great Sir
Robert Peel. Here one is forcibly reminded by ocular evidence that
this is a mining district. A turning to the right leads to
TAMWORTH,
one of the most ancient towns in Warwickshire and Staffordshire, for
it stands in both counties. It was a royal residence in the time of
the Heptarchy, and from that remote period to the present time the
castle has been of more or less importance--in fact, it is one of the
most ancient buildings in Central England. The mound upon which it
stands is of British origin; Queen Ethelfleda (died 918) erected the
castle which, with many alterations and additions, meets the view at
the present day. It has recently been acquired by the Corporation, and
is open to visitors. The ancient causeway leading to the entrance
presents the finest example of Saxon 'herring-bone' masonry to be
found in the kingdom. The circular keep is of picturesque red
sandstone, which does much to mitigate the effect of the Perpendicular
windows. The venerable building was the home of the Marmions, the
Frevilles, and the Ferrers, and in 'Marmion' we find:
'They hailed him lord of Fontenaye,
Of Lutterward and Scrivelbaye,
Of Tamworth Tower and Town.'
The last of the Marmions died in 1291. The bases of the dungeon walls
are four yards thick, and a visit to the castle interior gives the
impression of massive solidity.
Tamworth Church, founded in the eighth century, was destroyed by the
Danes in 874, and rebuilt by King Edgar. In 1345 it was burnt, but
rebuilt. The crypt and two Norman transept arches remain of the early
building. The late Perpendicular tower contains a curious double
staircase, and is a prominent feature for many miles round.
LICHFIELD
The road to Lichfield lies by the side of the River Tame for some
distance, but it passes through a colliery district; some finely
wooded knolls, however, occur on either side of the road. About three
miles before reaching the city the barracks are seen upon the right,
with an extensive common for training purposes; at the same time the
three Cathedral spires, 'The Ladies of the Vale,' form an attractive
feature in the landscape. The road leads directly to the ~Cathedral~,
which is one of those exquisitely pretty ecclesiastical edifices which
one wishes to put under a glass case for preservation from the
elements. It has been the seat of a bishopric since the seventh
century, and is connected with St. Chad. A Norman church succeeded the
Saxon edifice, but has entirely disappeared. The earliest part of
the present building, the west choir, dates from _c._ 1200; the south
and north transepts followed, and the nave and west front date from
about 1275. The eastern parts were finished in 1325. The central spire
was destroyed during the Civil War, and rebuilt by Sir Christopher
Wren.
_The Cathedral is open to the public from 9.30 to 5 on weekdays._
[Illustration: LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.
It is one of the smaller cathedrals, but its workmanship is of
an exquisite richness.]
Upon entering the west front, which is one of the most beautiful in
England in the Decorated style, the Early English nave with dog-tooth
mouldings, the clustered pillars, and the fine vaulting, impress one
by their beauty and gracefulness. In the north transept one finds five
lancet windows, with Perpendicular examples on either side. In the
south transept the vaulted roof, with its huge bosses, and the large
Perpendicular window are special features, and here the rich stained
glass and the warm appearance of the red sandstone produce an effect
upon which the eye delights to dwell. The choir, with its side aisles,
richly vaulted roof, and huge windows springing from the triforium, at
once attract the visitor's attention. The early Decorated blank
arcading of the aisles is interesting, as is also the peep afforded
into a building upon the south side. In the south aisle of the
retro-choir a celebrated monument, the 'Sleeping Children,' touches a
chord that vibrates in the nature of all who possess the tenderness of
human sympathy. The Lady Chapel has rich Decorated arcading upon its
walls, from above which spring nine windows with trefoil tracery. In
seven of these is the stained glass that once adorned the great
Cistercian nunnery of Herckenrode, in the Bishopric of Liège. It dates
from 1530, and was brought to England after the suppression of the
nunnery in 1802. Although one of the smallest of English cathedrals,
Lichfield is singularly impressive by reason of beautiful details and
graceful proportions. Although actually situated in a valley, its site
is the highest in England, with the exception of St. Albans.
In the Market Square stands the statue of Samuel Johnson, opposite
the house in which the great lexicographer first saw the light.
* * * * *
In order to rejoin the Watling Street, the road marked 'To Cannock'
should be taken, and about one and a half miles from the city a
turning to the right leads to that place. Continue, however, in the
same straight line for another one and a half miles, and the Watling
Street will be struck, leading off to the right at Muckley Corner. The
Roman station of _Eteocetum_ lies about one mile to the south-east at
Wall, where the Rycknield Street starts for the North. This is missed
by the detour to Tamworth and Lichfield.
Near Brownhills Common a large piece of water--Cannock Chase
reservoir--lies to the right, and farther on another reservoir is
passed. Two miles beyond Gailey railway-bridge is the site of the
Roman station of _Pennocrucium_, near a roadside inn, and immediately
afterwards the Shropshire Union Canal crosses the road by an aqueduct.
Boscobel House and Park lie about a mile towards the south, with the
famous oak in which Charles hid himself after Worcester. A straight
run of seven miles passes by Weston Park, renowned for its beauty, and
brings one to a turning on the left, the main road to Shifnal. It is
advisable to pass through Shifnal and regain the Watling Street
farther on, and thus avoid the extremely bad road between Redhill and
Oakengates.
~Shifnal~ is an interesting little town, possessing many quaint old
timbered houses, with overhanging upper stories, often enriched by
carving. A turning to the right in the middle of the town leads to the
~Church~. It possesses many curious remains of Norman architecture,
among which are the chancel arch and a portion of the south transept.
The main structure is Early English and Decorated, the tower arches
being of the former period. The tomb and effigy of the Prior of
Wombridge, 1526, and some Elizabethan monuments are in the chancel.
Over the south porch is a parvise, which projects in a novel manner
into the church, and is supported there upon two pillars.
From Shifnal to Oakengates, the reputed site of _Uxaconium_, is mainly
downhill, and through a colliery district, with all the usual
concomitants pertaining to it. After a run of about six miles, during
which the Wrekin, 1,335 feet high, lies to the left, a turning at an
inn is reached leading to
WROXETER
This is the ancient _Uriconium_, destroyed by fire in the fifth
century, and the imposing Roman remains form one of the chief
attractions for visitors in the immediate vicinity of Shrewsbury. To
the archæologist it is of supreme interest, as an immense variety of
Roman remains have come to light, including many parts of the massive
walls, the basilica and public baths. There are also exposed to view
well-preserved examples of the hypocausts of villas. Should a detour
be made to the site of this important Roman town, the largest
encountered since leaving _Verulamium_, a good road will be found
leading back to the main route, and thence to Shrewsbury. Continuing
on the main road, one crosses the Severn, and keeps it for some time
upon the right hand. Entering Shrewsbury, the centre of the town is
approached by a steep hill, 1 in 10, where caution must be exercised
on account of the traffic.
(_For town plan of Shrewsbury, see p. 77._)
LOOP No. 1
=FIRST PORTION=: SHREWSBURY, WHITCHURCH, CHESTER--=SECOND PORTION=:
CHESTER, MOLD, ST. ASAPH, RHYL--=THIRD PORTION=: RHYL, DENBIGH,
RUTHIN, CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, RUABON, WREXHAM, ELLESMERE, SHREWSBURY
SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 39½ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Shrewsbury= to Wem Church 10¾
=Wem Church= to Whitchurch 8¾
=Whitchurch= to Broxton 10
=Broxton= to Chester 10
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
On leaving =Shrewsbury=, descent of 1 in 10 in the town; dangerous.
Road to =Chester= usually in good condition; surface splendid; no
steep gradients.
Between =Shrewsbury= and =Wem=, undulating.
From =Whitchurch=, general fall from about 400 feet to sea-level at
=Chester=.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Battlefield of Shrewsbury, 1403.=--About 3 miles from Shrewsbury;
Battlefield Church, Perpendicular.
=Wem.=--Obelisk to Rowland Hill.
=Whitchurch.=--Busy country town; church dating from 1711.
=Rowton Moor.=--Three miles from Chester; battlefield, 1645.
=Chester.=--One of the most picturesque walled towns in England;
Cathedral; town walls; the 'Rows' and other old houses.
[Map: Loop 1. SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER.]
Leaving Shrewsbury by the Battlefield Road, and passing through the
unprepossessing parts of the old town, the church standing upon the
site of the battle becomes a conspicuous object when the higher ground
is reached, about a mile from the town. This remarkable memorial of
the terrible slaughter which took place in 1403 is necessarily of the
Perpendicular period, and at the present time is a simple parish
church, to which flocks a congregation eminently agricultural.
Restorations have taken place at various periods, but sufficient
remains of the original to make it of great interest. The site is that
upon which the fiercest part of the battle occurred, and where, after
the fight, the dead were crowded by hundreds into vast pits; for the
slaughter upon that fatal day was tremendous, numbering probably 8,000
men. The army of Glendower, the Mortimers, and the Percies lost 5,000
men by the most moderate estimate, and that of the victor, Henry of
Bolingbroke, was but little less, chiefly owing to the deadly accuracy
of the Cheshire bowmen of Percy's army, who at first almost
succeeded in winning the fray. But the King's army was double the
number of his opponents, and that always told in a civil war. For
three hours before sunset the struggle waged round the site of the
church, and when at last Percy's army broke and fled, they made for
Wem to the north, or the higher, wooded ground to the east. The road
to Whitchurch passes through Wem, from which Hawkstone Park may be
seen towards the west upon high ground, and the obelisk to Rowland
Hill. The scenery upon the route is eminently characteristic of
English pastoral life, with farmsteads and cottages nestling in
charming seclusion amid a wealth of foliage, or upon the summits of
the small undulations which diversify the Shropshire plain. At
intervals stretches of heath alternate with the cultivation, while
along the whole route the Welsh mountains form a broken sky-line to
the west.
~Whitchurch~ is a busy country town with a market, and forms a centre
for the trade of the district. The remains of the castle which once
existed here were visible down to 1760, but now no traces can be seen.
~The Church.~--The old church of Whitchurch fell in 1711, and the
edifice built upon the site is in heavy Romanesque architecture. There
are monuments in it to the Earls of Shrewsbury, one in armour being
representative of John, the first Earl, who was killed at Bordeaux in
1453, and whose remains were brought from France to be interred here.
Soon after leaving Whitchurch, Overton Scar forms a conspicuous
feature in the landscape, lying to the left near the vale of the Dee.
~Cholmondeley Castle~, three miles to the west of Malpas Station, is the
seat of the Marquis of Cholmondeley, and is situated in the Peckforton
Hills. The younger son of David le Clare settled here in Norman times.
The present castle is a modern building erected in the Norman style,
while the old hall, of Elizabethan foundation, was, unfortunately,
placed in the hands of Vanbrugh for restoration, and became so
completely altered in appearance that one would hardly guess its
origin. The district lying around these hills was the scene of many
encounters between the Royalists and Parliamentarians. Near Broxton
Station stands ~Carden Hall~, one of the most beautiful examples of
timbered mansions in the country. It was built in the time of
Elizabeth, but the Cardens were here in the reign of Henry VIII. The
Hall was garrisoned by the Royalists, but after being captured by the
other side was plundered, like most of the mansions in this county.
About a mile farther on ~Aldersey Hall~ stands to the left, about ten
furlongs from the road. It is asserted that it has been occupied by
the family of that name since the Norman Conquest.
In ~Handley Church~ a good brass may be seen of the Venables family, and
~Calveley Hall~, once a manor-house and now converted into a farmhouse,
has a good oak staircase and some excellent wainscotting in the rooms.
~Rowton Moor~ is reached next, where the Royalists suffered a defeat in
1645. The road passes through the battlefield.
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 4--CHESTER.]
CHESTER
From Shrewsbury the road into Chester leads into Foregate Street, and
presently, after passing through a street of uninteresting suburban
character, the city proper is entered by the east gate in the walls,
the archway of which passes over the road. Upon the left is the
Grosvenor, a comfortable and well-managed hotel, conveniently situated
as a centre for seeing the many features of interest in Chester. The
journey from London along the Watling Street has been upon the track
of the Roman legions, and here at Chester--the ancient Deva--is found
the ultimate object of their journey, for this was the headquarters of
the famous Twentieth Legion, which occupied the town shortly before
the Boadicean Rebellion in A.D. 61, and remained there until the
evacuation of Britain in the early part of the fifth century. The old
town is suggestive of Rome's imperial power, for the ichnography of
the city to-day resembles in a remarkable fashion the great military
castra of the conquerors of the world.
[Map: PLAN OF CHESTER CATHEDRAL.
_Based on that published by the late Dean Howson._]
One of the first objects of interest is the ~Cathedral~, situated about
two minutes from the hotel by passing up Werburgh Street. It is one of
the red cathedrals, and owing to the sandstone of which it is composed
being of a friable nature, the veneering of the edifice with new stone
unfortunately deprives it of that aspect of age so characteristic of
the majority of the great churches of England. The earliest building
standing on the site is said to have been put up in the second
century, but of that no traces exist. The present structure dates from
the twelfth century, and has architecture as recent as the sixteenth.
Upon entering by the west door some Norman work is apparent at the end
of the nave, but its general style is Perpendicular; there is no
triforium, and the fenestration springs directly above the arches,
where an unornamental balustrading breaks the junction. The huge
Perpendicular window at the west end is not of any particular merit.
The large south transept was until recently used as a parish church,
and is remarkably spacious; it is late Decorated, and possesses
beautiful tracery in the window of the west aisle. Passing into the
choir, which is early Decorated, and has been completely restored, one
finds some exquisite work in the canopies of the stalls, which are
undoubtedly the finest in the kingdom. Especially interesting are the
quaint misereres; the Bishop's throne and pulpit are, however, modern.
A characteristic feature of architecture occurs in the triforium,
where four arches are superposed upon each of the bays below them. In
the north aisle wall are preserved some magnificent mosaics,
presented to the cathedral in 1886. The screen across the choir is
Perpendicular, and of singular beauty, but it prevents the eye from
perceiving the full length of the church, making it appear shorter
than is actually the case. The north transept is small, with Norman
work below and Perpendicular above. It will readily be seen that there
are two periods in the Norman work. The large tomb on the floor of
this transept is the resting-place of Bishop Pearson, who died in
1696. He is well known for his work on the Creed. The cloisters are
entered through a Norman doorway at the east end of the north wall of
the nave; the style throughout is Perpendicular, and the work on three
sides of the square is picturesque; the south side, which had
perished, has been rebuilt. An early Norman passage lies along the
west side of the cloister. The chapter-house, which may be entered
from this spot, is exceptionally worthy of a visit. It is of Early
English architecture and a beautiful example of the style; the
vestibule is, perhaps, more chaste than the chapter-house, and the
manner in which the mouldings of the pillars run up unbroken into the
vaulting is a striking feature.
Upon leaving the cathedral by the same door at the west front and
turning to the right, the imposing Town Hall is seen in Northgate
Street, and opposite to it is the abbey gateway, a fine example of
Norman and Early English work, deserving more than a passing glance.
Continuing up Northgate Street, the ~Town Walls~ are reached, and can be
climbed by steps; the masonry here is probably of Roman origin. A few
paces to the right lead to the Phoenix Tower (_entrance 1d._), from
the summit of which Charles I. witnessed the defeat of his troops on
Rowton Moor, September 27, 1645, and not September 24, as stated on
the tablet. Retracing one's steps, the Shropshire Union Canal lies
below, occupying a portion of the ancient moat. The raised platform
upon the right which is now encountered affords a very fine view of
the surrounding country, and beyond is the Half-moon Tower, called
'Pemberton's Parlour.' From here the battlements lead to
Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, now used as a museum, and upon the level
sward below the visitor may perceive a number of Roman remains,
including a hypocaust, or warming apparatus, altars, and other
remains. The projecting isolated defence at this point is known as the
Water Tower. Continuing the walk, the well-known racecourse, called
the 'Roodee,' or 'Isle of the Cross,' is seen upon the right,
enclosed by a loop in the river, and presently the group of buildings,
consisting of the assize courts, gaol, and barracks, appear upon the
left, the whole being classified under the name of 'the Castle.' The
picturesque old bridge is next encountered, and here it is advisable
to leave the walls, as the remainder of the route is devoid of
interest.
Passing up Bridge Street, the third turning upon the right is Pepper
Street, and after traversing this strangely named thoroughfare, the
~Church of St. John the Baptist~ is soon reached, one of the most
interesting buildings in the city. It was originally intended to be
the cathedral for the former diocese, which embraced practically the
whole of Mercia, but the dignity was conferred upon Coventry. The
ruins consist of very picturesque Norman work, with Norman and Early
English flanking arches. By applying to the sexton, who is usually in
the church, the Norman crypt may be visited. The nave of the church
has Norman cylindrical pillars, dating from about 1090; the triforium
arches are Early English of about a century later. A very fine lancet
window is at the west end. The central tower fell in 1574, and crushed
the east end of the church, which has never been rebuilt. The base of
the tower shows rich Norman arches, with clustered columns supporting
them. Traces of frescoes may be seen here. There are many displaced
monuments now resting at the west end; one, a knight, dates from _c._
1240, and a lady from _c._ 1400.
Retracing one's steps through Pepper Street, and passing up Bridge
Street, ~St. Peter's Church~ is reached. It was built on the site of the
Roman Prætorium, and in A.D. 907 the Church of SS. Peter and Paul was
removed here by Ethelfleda from the site of St. Werburgh's. The
edifice is mentioned in Domesday as the Church of St. Peter. The
rectors' names are preserved from 1195. The church is square in plan,
and consists only of four aisles; the architecture is Perpendicular,
and rude Georgian galleries disfigure two of the aisles. The far-famed
~Rows~ of Chester may be visited from this point; they are found in
Eastgate Street and Bridge Street in particular, but Watergate Row
should on no account be missed, because two houses of the south side
are striking specimens of seventeenth-century architecture. One bears
the inscription 'God's Providence is mine inheritance,' which is
supposed to allude to the preservation of the family occupying it from
the plague. On the same side, No. 11, is a remarkable medieval crypt,
now occupied by Quellyn Roberts and Co., wine merchants, who readily
allow visitors to descend into the vaulted chamber.
This list of interesting sights of Chester is by no means exhaustive;
an exploration of the streets in almost any direction will afford
glimpses of old-time quaintnesses nestling in unsuspected byways, and
the eye can dwell with pleasure upon many architectural details and
rich colour schemes.
LOOP No. 1--SECOND PORTION
CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 35½ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Chester= to Broughton 5
=Broughton= to Mold 7
=Mold= to Caerwys 9½
=Caerwys= to St. Asaph 8
=St. Asaph= to Rhuddlan 3¼
=Rhuddlan= to Rhyl 2¾
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Chester to Mold.=--Tramcar-lines to Saltney, flat; then splendid
surface.
=Broughton.=--Ascent 1 in 21; then level to Mold.
=Mold.=--Fairly long hills to Caerwys; then level to Rhyl, except a
descent near Trefnant.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Mold.=--Small county town; church of florid Henry VII. architecture;
Bailey Hill, site of a British fortress; scene of the 'Alleluia
Victory.'
=Cilcain.=--Church with magnificent oak roof.
=Caerwys.=--Pretty scenery; the residence of Llewelyn.
=Bodfari.=--Roman station.
=St. Asaph.=--Small town, with cathedral, smallest in England and
Wales.
=Rhuddlan.=--Edwardian castle, ruins.
=Morfa Rhuddlan.=--Scene of a great battle between Offa of Mercia and
Caradoc.
=Rhyl.=--Watering-place; splendid sands.
[Map: CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL. LOOP 1 (SECOND PORTION).
NOTE.--Denbigh is omitted on the way from Mold to Rhyl.]
On leaving Chester the Grosvenor Bridge is crossed, and as far as
Saltney the road is occupied by tram-lines, while on looking backwards
a fine view of the city walls is obtained. After Saltney an excellent
road through the marshes enables one to see the wide estuary of the
river; but at Broughton, where the left-hand road should be taken, a
stiff rise of two miles leads to a plateau with an average elevation
of nearly 500 feet above sea-level, upon which the road remains for
the next twelve miles. The country here is well wooded, and Halkin
Mountain presents a fine appearance in front. The outskirts of a small
colliery district, with its centre at Buckley, are passed near
Padeswood, and presently Mold, the county town of Flint, is reached.
MOLD
The town, which is rather sleepy and depressing, contains a church at
the summit of a steep hill to the right, thoroughly rebuilt in the
florid Tudor period early in the sixteenth century. The nave has some
ornate four-centred arches, and in the chancel some reputed
eighth-century work has been incorporated.
Behind the church is the commencement of the ascent to Bailey Hill, an
eminence partly natural and partly artificial. It was once a British
fortress, and was subsequently occupied by a medieval castle, now
entirely vanished, and pleasure-grounds occupy the site. In the
immediate neighbourhood of Mold there are many objects of considerable
interest to the antiquary and geologist, such as the site of the
'Alleluia Victory,' won by an army of Christian converts under
Germanus, and who, by shouting 'Alleluia!' struck the Picts and Scots,
to whom they were opposed, with panic. In 1833 a gold breastplate of
Celtic workmanship was unearthed near the town, and is now a treasured
object in the British Museum. The ascent of Moel Fammau, 1,823 feet,
the highest peak in the Clwydian range, from which a magnificent
panorama is obtained, is easily accomplished from this town.
Mold was once a flourishing place, with mines and smelting-works in
its vicinity, but they have now become unprofitable, with the
inevitable result of lowering the vitality of the town. The road
leading to St. Asaph passes a few coalpits near Mold, but presently
winds about in a valley between the Clwydian Range and the Halkin
Mountain. The village of ~Cilcain~ lies to the left of the route, at a
distance of two miles, on the lower slopes of Moel Fammau, and is
noted for the magnificent carved oak roof of its church, brought from
Basingwerke Abbey, near Holywell. Nature is now in her pleasantest
mood, and as the road winds with many a sharp turn down the long slope
towards ~Caerwys~, the mountains on both sides become softened and
rounded, and clothed in many parts with trees to their summits. Upon
the hills to the left lie a succession of interesting British camps,
the strongest and most extensive being Moel Arthur, 1,494 feet,
reached just before Nannerch appears by a road which branches off
close to a stone circle. ~Caerwys~ is believed to have been a Roman
station. It was at one time celebrated for its meetings of the bards,
or Eisteddfodau, and also as being the residence of the last native
Welsh Prince, Llewelyn ap Gruffydd. The whole of this district is rich
in memories of the past, and abounds in interest. After passing
Bodfari, where the railway crosses the road, a bridge over the River
Clwyd is reached, and directly afterwards the turn to the right should
be taken. (That to the left leads to Denbigh.)
At this point one says good-bye to the track of the Roman legions,
~Bodfari~ (_Vara_) being the last of the stations to be passed. The
Roman road went straight ahead towards the west, and finished at
_Segontium_, which will be seen when passing through Carnarvon. Thus,
nearly all the way, from St. Albans through Shrewsbury to Chester, the
Watling Street has been followed.
ST. ASAPH
This small village-city of 2,000 inhabitants is of consequence only on
account of its cathedral, conspicuously placed upon high ground, and a
prominent feature for many miles. To reach the time when this ancient
see did not exist, one must travel back before the sixth century. The
first building, of wood, was destroyed by fire in 1282, and the
edifice which succeeded it was nearly razed to the ground during the
wars under Owen Glendower. The present church practically dates from
1482; the choir, however, was not completed until 1770. It was
restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. St. Asaph is the smallest British
cathedral, being 182 feet long and 68 feet across the nave. The
interior presents the aspect of a spacious parish church, and
possesses only a few objects of interest. The east window is
Decorated, and the tracery of the side-windows based upon traces of
Early English work. The effigy of an Abbot in Episcopal robes, and
probably dating from the fifteenth century, lies in the south
transept. The road out of St. Asaph descends a steep hill, requiring
caution, and a run of about three miles along a level road, with a
sharp turning to the right over a bridge, leads to
RHUDDLAN CASTLE
The entrance to the Vale of Clwyd is one of the chief strategic points
in Wales, and the elevated knob upon which the castle stands has, from
the most remote antiquity, been a place of strength. The early Welsh
fortress had additions early in the tenth century; it was taken by the
nephew of the Earl of Chester in 1098, and enlarged about sixty years
afterwards. The Welsh, however, captured it from the English in 1167,
and Llewelyn subsequently held it; but Edward I. gained possession,
and built the whole castle anew in 1277 upon an adjacent site. The
enormous walls, impressively grand in their massive proportions, are
his work. The castle appears to have remained in an efficient
condition to the time of the Civil War, when it was held by the
Royalists; but General Mytton captured it in 1646, and not long
afterwards it was dismantled. As one stands on the site, one
endeavours to visualize some of the many scenes of desperate warfare
which have happened upon and around this bold sandstone bluff, and the
cattle standing knee-deep in the translucent waters of the Clwyd, and
lazily brushing aside the clouds of flies, seem strangely out of
harmony with the memory of the wild hordes that have dashed against
these frowning walls. Within its easily traced fosse, and enclosing a
large area, there was formerly a priory of Dominicans, which has now
disappeared, but relics of it are preserved in Rhuddlan Church. From
the grassy strath within the walls the level plain reaching to Rhyl is
spread out very distinctly, and if the eye is allowed to wander to
Morfa Rhuddlan, which lies like a great alluvial marsh within the
triangle of Rhyl, Abergele, and Rhuddlan, the most desolate stretch in
Cambria, the site of that great battle in 795 is seen, when Offa, the
great king of Mercia, defeated the hordes of Caradoc, the king of
North Wales, with terrific slaughter. There probably exists no more
pathetic wail--the death-sob of a great nation--than that of 'Morfa
Rhuddlan,' which, next to the 'Men of Harlech,' is the most sung of
Welsh airs.
The road to Rhyl is gained by passing through the village and taking
the first road to the left. This takes one directly to the esplanade
opposite the pier, where the Belvoir, a comfortable hotel, stands in a
convenient position.
RHYL
Rhyl is essentially a watering-place, a watering-place pure and
simple, and it does not pretend to be anything else. Its bathing
facilities are magnificent, its sands are excellent for a gallop, and
the _beau idéal_ of parents with families, who fear that their
offspring may meet disaster unless a smooth sweep of sand is
available. It is healthy, bracing, peaceful, an excellent
'brain-emptier'--and that means much to the jaded man. He may be
exasperated by the pier entrance, which can only be termed doubly
debased Scottish architecture, but architecture by the sea is seldom
free from glaring faults. As a jumping-off ground for the Vale of the
Clwyd, and for the sea-gate of Wales at Abergele, it is convenient
both by road and rail.
LOOP No. 1--THIRD PORTION
RHYL TO CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, WREXHAM, AND SHREWSBURY, 86½ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Rhyl= to Denbigh 15
=Denbigh= to Ruthin 7¾
=Ruthin= to Corwen 12½
=Corwen= to Llangollen 10
=Llangollen= to Wrexham 12¼
=Wrexham= to Ellesmere 16½
=Ellesmere= to Shrewsbury 12½
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Rhyl to Trefnant.=--A good road.
=Trefnant.=--Ascent 1 in 14, then good to Denbigh.
=Denbigh to Ruthin.=--Undulating; steep ascent in Ruthin, 1 in 11,
then good road until 2 miles from Corwen, when there is a descent of 1
in 13.
=Corwen to Llangollen.=--Slightly hilly; first-class surface.
=Llangollen to Wrexham.=--Llangollen to Trevor excellent; Trevor to
Ruabon bumpy, then fairly good to Wrexham.
=Wrexham to Ellesmere.=--Steep hill 1 mile from Wrexham, then
exceptionally good to Ellesmere; afterwards undulating to Shrewsbury.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Bodelwyddan Church.=--Two miles from Rhuddlan, _off the road_;
excellent example of modern architecture.
=Cefn Caves.=--Three miles from St. Asaph, or 2½ miles from Trefnant,
off the road.
=Denbigh.=--The castle; ruins of the garrison church.
=Llanrhaiadr.=--Church, with fifteenth century 'Jesse' window.
=Ruthin.=--Castle, with beautiful surroundings; church, Perpendicular,
with splendid roof.
=Corwen.=--Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard.
=Llangollen.=--Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg Pillar; Dinas Bran castle;
Plas Newydd, the Bridge.
=Ruabon.=--Church; Wynnstay Park and Monument.
=Wrexham.=--Church, one of the Seven Wonders of Wales, Perpendicular
architecture.
=Ellesmere.=--Church, with hatchet-work screen; old timbered houses;
picturesque lakes.
[Map: LOOP 1 (THIRD PORTION). DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY.
For the route from Rhyl to Denbigh see previous map.]
For the first part of this section of the route the road is retraced
through Rhuddlan, and here, if the traveller be interested in a grand
example of modern ecclesiastical architecture, Bodelwyddan Church may
be visited. It lies two miles from Rhuddlan, to the right of the road;
was erected by Lady Willoughby de Broke; cost £60,000; and is called
the 'Marble Church,' from the whiteness of the local limestone of
which it is built. The spire and exterior are extremely pleasing,
while the richness of the interior, with its marbles, wood-carving,
stained glass, and excess of structural adornments, make it well
worth a visit. A good road leads back to the trunk route.
THE CEFN CAVES,
reached by a side-road about two and a half miles from Trefnant. These
lie in the grounds of Cefn Hall, and are _open on Tuesday and Friday
afternoons_. They are deep cavities in the limestone rock, at one time
inhabited by primeval man, whose bones and many interesting relics of
his existence have been found by careful excavation of the floors. A
very fine view of the Vale of the Clwyd, which has been rather
overpraised, is obtained at this spot.
[Illustration: SHREWSBURY HOUSE, CHESTER.
One of the many picturesque frontages for which the town is famous.]
[Map: DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY.]
DENBIGH
In Denbigh a long, broad street leads up to the centre of the town,
and here the chief attraction, the castle, may be visited. Passing up
through a Norman gateway, which once formed part of the boundary of
the ancient town, and was called Burgess's Tower, the ruins of the
long-abandoned parish church, or garrison church of St. Hilary, are
seen on the spacious castle green. The old parish church of the town
is at ~Whitchurch~, on the road to Ruthin. The stately ruins of the
great Norman fortress, which kept watch and ward over this portion of
the Vale of the Clwyd for so many centuries, crowns the summit of this
conical hill, and is perched nearly 500 feet above sea-level. Long
before the Norman invasion this vantage-point had been seized upon for
a stronghold, but the great epoch for Denbigh happened when Edward I.
sat down in Rhuddlan and gathered into his conquering hands the fair
lands of Wales, consolidating his power by building a castle in each.
Denbigh and Ruthin, ruled by the Laceys and the Greys respectively,
formed the nuclei of two counties. Here Henry Percy, in the wars with
Glendower, tried to stem the tide of insurrection; and later, in
the Wars of the Roses, it was a centre of that desolation and
destruction which overwhelmed the valley under Jasper Tudor and the
Earl of Pembroke, and reduced it to a land of smouldering embers. But
one of the most stirring episodes in the history of the castle was the
grand defence made by Colonel William Salusbury, the stout old
Royalist, who, in the summer of 1646, valiantly held the walls against
the Parliamentarians. From April until November it was assaulted in
vain, for Salusbury had sworn that he would not surrender it except at
the bidding of his King. This was eventually obtained, and the
garrison marched out with, if possible, more than the honours of war.
Soon afterwards the castle was completely dismantled, and now chiefly
serves as a place of assembly for the townspeople, a recreation-ground,
and a coign of vantage, under favourable circumstances, for a splendid
view over the Vale.
The road to Ruthin leads out of the busy market-place, and a mile
beyond the town one reaches the fine old church of ~Whitchurch~, now
only used for burial services. It belongs to the Perpendicular period,
and in it parts of the rood-screen may be seen, converted into a
reredos, and a screen at the west end of the north aisle. An
interesting brass to Richard Myddelton, who died 1575, is preserved
here; he was the Governor of Denbigh Castle, and is represented with
his wife and a small family of sixteen. The Myddeltons, like the
Salusburys, have left indelible traces upon this part of Wales, and of
the sons represented on the brass, one became a Lord Mayor of London,
and another, the sixth, is perhaps the best known to Englishmen, as he
was the celebrated Sir Hugh Myddelton who brought the New River to the
metropolis. The ancestral home of this family, Chirk Castle, will be
visited _en route_.
After another one and a half miles, ~Llanrhaiadr Church~ is seen, whose
interior is interesting on account of the 'Jesse' window, of fine
fifteenth-century glass, purchased with the offerings of pilgrims to
the holy well in the wooded glen above the church. It is in a
remarkably good state of preservation, with the colours rich and
brilliant. Outside the east window are the graves of five soldiers who
fell in the famous siege of Denbigh; under one lies Captain Wynne, of
the great house of Gwydir, near Llanrwst. He died from wounds in the
castle, and by mutual arrangement the cortège was permitted to pass
through the lines of the beleaguers, the Parliamentarians firing the
last salute over the grave of the hero.
Between Llanrhaiadr and Ruthin the highest points of the Clwydian
Range come prominently into view, the huge ruin on Moel Fammau, to
which reference has been made in connection with Mold, being plainly
visible.
RUTHIN (_RED CASTLE_)
The road leads into the central square of the town, from the south
side of which issues Castle Street. The modern Ruthin Castle is
occupied by Colonel W. Cornwallis West, Lord-Lieutenant of
Denbighshire, and the ruins stand in the Park. (_Permission to enter
may be obtained at the lodge._) The remains consist of a dungeon, a
'Beheading Tower,' an armoury, and some curious passages. A
whipping-post is also preserved. The ruins, deep red in hue, and
mantled by the rich green of the clinging foliage, with a setting
beyond of the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd, form a picture rich
in colour. Reginald de Grey owned the castle shortly after its
erection in 1280, and it remained in the possession of his family
until about 1480. Owen Glendower attempted its capture in 1400, but
the Parliamentarians were more successful, for it fell in 1646, after
a siege of three months, from which time it has been a ruin. Sir
Thomas Myddelton of Chirk became owner, and the present possessor has
inherited it from him in the female line. The castle was partially
rebuilt in 1826, and brought to its present condition in 1852.
The Church of St. Peter is an imposing edifice, chiefly Perpendicular,
and contains a finely decorated roof of Henry VII.'s period,
beautifully carved in black oak and divided into 500 small panels. The
old building adjacent and the church are the remains of a Priory of
White Friars, and form a very picturesque addition; near them are the
former buildings of the Grammar School, founded in 1574. The
foundation is now accommodated in better surroundings.
The natural environs of Ruthin are of great beauty, and this part of
the Clwyd Valley is a favourite place of residence. Upon Moel Feulli
are the remains of a fortified British camp, enlarged by the Romans,
and from it and Moel Fammau magnificent views may be obtained.
Leaving Ruthin, the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd is traversed,
and the watershed between the latter river and the Dee crossed at a
height of 600 feet. After passing through the narrow Vale of
Nantclwyd, with its towering limestone rocks, the small church of
~Derwen~, lying off the road to the right of Derwen Station, is seen. It
contains a handsome fifteenth-century screen and rood-loft, with a
time-honoured thirteenth-century cross in the churchyard.
CORWEN
is a centre for the railway system of Wales, but possesses no special
attractions, unless the mark of Owen Glendower's dagger upon the
lintel of the south door of the church, inflicted, so it is said, when
in a pet, be deemed one, though probably the tradition had its origin
in the dagger carved on the shaft of an eighth-century cross in the
same churchyard. The summit of the rock behind the town, whereon
stands a cairn, was the point whence Glendower reviewed his troops
previous to the Battle of Shrewsbury. The short climb is rewarded by a
pleasing view.
LLANGOLLEN
is reached by a part of the Telford-Holyhead road, which is generally
in magnificent condition. Pretty views of the Dee, the Berwyn
Mountains on the right, the Llantysilio Mountains on the left, and the
Eglwyseg rocks in front, are obtained, and the most beautiful part of
the hill country of Wales, as contrasted with the mountain scenery, is
presented to the eye. The loveliest views are those lying round the
town, rivalling in beauty, and perhaps surpassing, any found elsewhere
in Britain. ~The Bridge~ is one of the "Wonders of Wales," dating from
1345, and ~Plas Newydd~, lying about half a mile from the bridge, the
residence of the famed ladies of Llangollen, should on no account be
missed. The romance of their lives is too lengthy for inclusion here,
but may be readily learnt on the spot. The house is an aggregation of
carved oak within and without. No one should visit Llangollen without
ascending ~Castell Dinas Brân~, which towers to a height of 1,000 feet
above the village. The origin of the quaint ruins upon the summit is
lost in antiquity, but is attributed to one of the early Princes of
Powis. The tide of war has raged scores of times round the hoary
fragments upon the crest, which look like the eyrie of a robber baron
or the fantastic imaginings of a Doré. When the castle emerges into
the light of history we find that Griffith, the son of Madoc, occupied
it in the thirteenth century, and that about a hundred years
afterwards it fell into ruin.
[Map: VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY: GROUND PLAN.]
VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY
(_admission 6d._) lies two miles by road from Llangollen. Founded by
the above-named Griffith in A.D. 1200, it is necessarily in the Early
English style, and dog-tooth ornamentation may be discovered in the
west end. The beautiful ruin appeals to artist and antiquary alike,
and is considered the most picturesque in Wales. A little way off to
the north is ~Eliseg's Pillar~, a most astonishing early monument put up
by Concenn ap Cadell ap Brochmail to the memory of his great-grandfather,
Eliseg, who lived as far back as the beginning of the seventh century.
It is no longer possible to read the Latin inscription giving these
facts, and the remarkable monument itself has suffered much
mutilation. Llangollen is a town in which a week can be spent with
profit and pleasure, so numerous are the places of interest in the
immediate neighbourhood. The fine escarpment of the limestone rocks,
the Eglwyseg, lying above the village, are conspicuous on the left for
some distance on leaving for Ruabon through the Vale of Llangollen,
where the famed Wynnstay Park is situated, the residence of Sir H.
Watkin Williams-Wynn, Bart. The house is not on view, but admission to
the park is freely given by application at the lodge gates, close to
the town. The associations of the park are, however, the chief
point in connection with it, for the Wynns go back into remote
antiquity, and the history of North Wales and the members of this
family are inseparable. The pillar standing above the swiftly rushing
Dee is a cenotaph perpetuating the names of those who fell in the
Irish rebellion of '98, when a Wynn took his company of yeomanry over
the water to help in the suppression.
[Illustration: THE SWALLOW FALLS, BETTWS-Y-COED.
The finest waterfall in Wales.]
WREXHAM
From Ruabon to Wrexham tram-lines run by the side of the road, but
they do not cause much inconvenience, and the road is good. The chief
object for visiting the town is to view the church, which is one of
the finest, if not _the_ finest, in the Principality, and enumerated
among the "Seven Wonders of Wales." It was erected in 1472 to replace
a former structure destroyed by fire. It is a splendid example of
Perpendicular architecture, the tower of six stages and 135 feet in
height being probably unsurpassed, and the rich peal of ten bells it
contains are celebrated far and wide--they were made in 1726. The
church contains monuments to the Myddelton and other families, and in
the churchyard the Elihu Yale tomb is of exceptional interest to
Americans.
ELLESMERE
At Wrexham one turns towards the south to Shrewsbury, and Ellesmere is
the first town calling for comment. There are many old carved timber
houses to be seen, a beautiful contrast to the modern box-of-bricks
erections which now so frequently serve for dwellings. No trace of the
castle now remains; its site is occupied by a bowling-green, whence a
view into nine counties is obtained. The church is chiefly of
Perpendicular architecture, and is worth visiting. The chancel screen
is of hatchet-work, and over the door may be seen the groove in which
the rood formerly stood. The Oteley Chapel has a quaint figure,
_temp._ Edward IV., on the north-west pier, and also an altar-tomb
with recumbent figures. The mere from which the town gained its name
lies close at hand; four other meres are in the vicinity, and these,
with other pleasant concomitants, help to make very pretty and
charming scenery for some distance on the road to Shrewsbury. Shortly
after leaving the town the Ellesmere Canal--one of Telford's great
works--is crossed.
SECTION IV (TRUNK ROUTE)
SHREWSBURY TO LLANDUDNO, 81½ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Shrewsbury= to Oswestry 17
=Oswestry= to Chirk 5¾
=Chirk= to Llangollen 6¾
=Llangollen= to Corwen 10
=Corwen= to Cerrig-y-Druidon 9¾
=Cerrig-y-Druidon= to Pentre Voelas 5½
=Pentre Voelas= to Bettws-y-Coed 6¾
=Bettws-y-Coed= to Llanrwst 4½
=Llanrwst= to Tal-y-Cafn 6¾
=Tal-y-Cafn= to Glan Conway 3¾
=Glan Conway= to Llandudno 5
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=The Holyhead Road=.--Splendid surface; perfect condition generally.
Dangerous hill in =Shrewsbury=.
A fairly stiff ascent at =Chirk=, 1 in 18.
Road ascends from =Corwen to Cerrig-y-Druidon=.
Last 9 miles into =Bettws-y-Coed= downhill.
=Bettws-y-Coed to Tal-y-Cafn.=--Level, then a hill, up and down, 1 in
12.
=Near Llandudno Junction.=--Steep ascent, 1 in 10.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Shrewsbury.=--Castle; free library and museum; market-house;
churches; public gardens; town walls.
=Montford Bridge.=--Pretty road.
=Oswestry.=--Castle mound; church, with a fine tower.
=Chirk.=--Castle of great interest; viaduct; aqueduct.
=Llangollen.=--Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg's Pillar; bridge. The really
fine scenery lies beyond Llangollen.
=Corwen.=--Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard.
=Conway Falls.=--Pandy Mill and Falls, Swallow Falls, all about 2
miles short of Bettws-y-Coed, upon the left, where the Conway Falls
Inn will be seen.
=Bettws-y-Coed.=--Waterloo Bridge (Dolwyddelan Castle).
=Llanrwst.=--Bridge; Gwydir Castle and Chapel.
=Conway.=--Castle; bridge; walls of the town; church.
=Llandudno.=--Watering-place; Great Orme's Head; St. Tudno's Church.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 4. SHREWSBURY TO CORWEN.]
~Shrewsbury.~--To pass through Shropshire without seeing Shrewsbury
would be tantamount to journeying through Italy without visiting Rome.
Its physical features are strikingly picturesque, and it has almost as
many antiquities as Chester. Fortunately, too, the objects of interest
are grouped together.
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 3--SHREWSBURY.]
The town lies in a loop of the Severn, with the castle protecting the
opening. It is of red sandstone, and dates in part from the time of
Edward I. The grounds are open, but the building is private. The free
library and museum, opposite the castle, occupy the old buildings of
Shrewsbury School, founded in the reign of Edward VI. The museum
contains many 'finds' from _Uriconium_. The school now occupies
magnificent buildings south of the town. Passing up Castle Street, the
old Council House gateway is upon the left, and soon after a turn to
the left at the post office brings one to ~St. Mary's Church~, a noble
building, of which the base of the tower and the nave are Norman, the
transept Early English, and the aisles Perpendicular, and other
portions late Perpendicular. The tower, with its spire 222 feet high,
is the third loftiest in the kingdom. The general appearance of the
interior is very beautiful, and the Jesse window of fourteenth-century
glass should be especially noticed; it was originally in the Grey
Friars' monastery. The glass as a whole excels that of any other
English parish church; the St. Bernard window, for example, on the
north side of the altar, attributed to Albert Dürer, came from a
church at Cologne. ~St. Alkmund's Church~ can be seen from St. Mary's,
and passing that, and also St. Julian's Church, the old Wyle Cop may
be reached. Among the ancient timbered houses there is one in which
Henry VII. stayed prior to Bosworth in 1485. Passing over the English
Bridge, the ~Abbey Church~ is reached, with its imposing west front and
great Perpendicular window, and the tower, the base of which is
Norman, rising from the west end of the nave. Internally the latter
possesses three massive Norman bays, and two of the Early English
period, a fine arch in the latter style dividing it from the tower.
The chancel and clerestory have been rebuilt recently in good taste.
There are some interesting monumental effigies; one in the south
aisle is supposed to represent the founder, Roger, Earl of Shrewsbury,
died 1094. In this church, then the Chapel of the Monastery of the
Holy Cross, Richard II. held the 'great Parliament' in 1377.
Returning to the town, the road by Beeches Lane will lead by way of
the old walls to Murivance Tower, the only one remaining of the twenty
which once guarded the town. A short distance farther on, the
'Quarry,' with its beautiful avenues of lime-trees by the river, is
reached, one of the spots of which Shrewsbury is justly proud.
Having safely negotiated the dangerous hill in Shrewsbury, the road
to Oswestry is easily found, and, as nothing of supreme importance is
encountered before that town appears, the beauties of the Holyhead
Road may be appreciated.
OSWESTRY
The Church possesses a remarkably fine tower, which presents a
venerable appearance by reason of the growth of vegetation upon it. A
portion was pulled down during the Civil War, and rebuilt some time
after the Restoration. The interior should be visited, although there
are no special features upon which to dilate. About a mile to the
north of the town lies Old Oswestry, a very fine and well-preserved
earthwork, consisting of three concentric circles of defences. A
portion of Wat's Dyke lies adjacent. This was the first ditch made by
Offa, King of Mercia, in the eighth century to prevent Welsh
incursions; the second, called Offa's Dyke, was dug a few miles nearer
the Welsh border, and generally parallel to the first.
A stiff rise in the road announces that ~Chirk~ is at hand, and the
celebrated castle is the first point of interest.
CHIRK CASTLE,
anciently, Castel-y-Waen, is the only example of the thirty great
fortalices in Shropshire erected to control the Welsh border which
remains in complete repair and is occupied at the present time. It is
indelibly associated with the Myddeltons, an ancient Denbigh family
who have been identified with every popular movement in that part of
the country for centuries past. The present owner is Mr. Richard
Myddelton.
(_The Castle is open Mondays and Tuesdays 2 to 5 p.m., 1s.
each person; other days special orders, Estate Office,
Chirk, 5s. for three persons._)
The builder of the existing fortress was Roger Mortimer, Lord of
Chirk, who in 1310 commenced work upon the site of Castell Crogen,
which dated from 1011. In 1595 it came into the possession of Sir
Thomas Myddelton, subsequently Lord Mayor of London. Sir Hugh
Myddelton, of New River fame, was his brother. The Royalists seized
the castle in the absence of the second Sir Thomas Myddelton, a
Parliamentarian, who had the pleasant experience of battering his own
property in the endeavour to retake it. Becoming disgusted with
Parliamentarian excesses, he became Royalist again, and was besieged.
So much damage was done by the artillery of Cromwell that £30,000 were
spent subsequently on repairs.
It is a quadrangular structure, with embattled walls, four towers of
great strength at the angles, and another defending the gateway. A
court of considerable area occupies the centre. Some very interesting
pictures form part of the treasures of the house, and among them is
the exquisite cabinet given to Sir Thomas by Charles II. The exterior
aspect is extremely pleasing, with ivy-covered walls and red-grey
stonework forming a background to the old-world gardens. Traces of
Offa's Dyke occur near the farmhouse at the foot of the castle. The
beautiful Ceriog Valley is an attractive feature of this
neighbourhood.
The road to Llangollen from Chirk commands a fine view of the vale,
and a sight of one of the most striking features of the Dee Valley,
the great aqueduct conveying the canal across it at a height of 120
feet above the river. An iron trough in the stonework contains the
water. There are nineteen arches, and the length is over 1,000 feet.
It is one of Telford's masterpieces.
(_For a description of the route from Llangollen to Corwen,
see pp. 69-71._)
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 4. CORWEN TO LLANDUDNO.]
Leaving Corwen, the river is passed by a bridge, and a glimpse
afforded up the Vale of Edeyrnion to the left, at the end of which
lies Bala Lake and the source of the Dee. There are many glimpses of
charming scenery and nestling homesteads to be seen between Corwen and
Cerrig-y-Druidon, although the latter lies upon a somewhat bare
tableland perched nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. The British camp
of Pen-y-Gaer lies to the right of it. Pentre Voelas is situated at
the beginning of the long descent into Bettws, and this part of the
road commands as beautiful scenery as one could wish to see. A little
more than four miles beyond Pentre Voelas is a turning on the left to
Penmachno, and a few yards farther on the Conway Falls are seen at the
bottom of a deep ravine. The celebrated Fairy Glen may be reached by
means of a broad green path, which leaves the main road at the same
place as that leading to the Conway Falls. The wicket-gate, beyond
which the glen is reached, is nearly three-quarters of a mile down
this track. The beauty of the glen is so conspicuously appealing that
it has won for itself an almost world-wide renown. The road from this
point descends rapidly, crosses the Waterloo Bridge, and enters
Bettws-y-Coed.
BETTWS Y COED.
The charm of this delightful locality is felt by everyone who comes
within its influence. From the village itself not a mountain is
visible, but all around are beautiful glades and the profuse richness
of vegetation flourishing in subtle, harmonious accord with rocks and
dashing waters. The Miner's Bridge lies about a mile along the Capel
Curig Road, with the Swallow Falls a mile farther. To Capel Garmon a
footpath ascends, and also a zigzag road. It affords a magnificent
panoramic view of the chief heights of the Snowdonian Range, with the
exception of Snowdon itself, which is hidden by the grand mass of
Moel Siabod. An interesting cromlech lies near Capel Garmon.
Resuming the journey, the road to Llanrwst passes over the Waterloo
Bridge and turns sharply to the left. Llyn-y-Parc is seen across the
Conway, lying at the base of spurs projecting from the mountains
beyond, and Gwydir Castle appears at the farther end of it.
LLANRWST
This ancient market town contains a church dating from the fifteenth
century, when it replaced a much older one. It contains several
interesting monuments and an elaborate screen. The beautiful Gwydir
Chapel was designed by Inigo Jones; it dates from 1633, and contains
five brasses of members of the Wynne family. The large stone coffin of
Llewellyn the Great, son-in-law of King John, is preserved here,
having been removed from Conway Abbey. The effigy in armour represents
Howel Coetmore, who led a hundred Denbighshire men at Poitiers.
~Gwydir Castle~ was built in 1555, and partly rebuilt in 1816. In the
absence of the family (Lord Carrington is the owner) it is possible
that the interesting interior may be seen. The park contains much
natural beauty, one conspicuous feature being the lofty Falcon Rock
behind the house. Llanrwst Bridge, built by Inigo Jones in 1636, is
said to tremble if sudden pressure be placed on one of the parapets.
Two miles out of Llanrwst the village of ~Trefriew~ is seen across the
river, a summer resort and inland watering-place. Presently the site
of Maenan Abbey, which disappeared at the Reformation, is passed,
before reaching Maenan House. The mountains lying between the Conway
Valley and Nant Ffrancon now present a fine spectacle. Shortly after
Tal-y-Cafn a dangerous hill is encountered, and from its summit the
Roman station of _Canovium_, situated near Caerhun on the
Carnarvonshire side, may be discerned. As the fishing at this part of
the estuary is noted, some coracles may perhaps be seen. The road
between Glan Conway and Llandudno reveals grand views of Conway
Castle and Mountain, and all the varied scenery which makes the
estuary so famous.
LLANDUDNO
The 'Biarritz of Britain' is not an inappropriate name for this
favoured town, which possesses every advantage of splendid climate,
beautiful scenery, and perfect bathing.
Great Orme's Head is generally the object of the first excursion. In
the early morning it looks very imposing, with the exquisite effect of
moving mist lying upon the placid waters of the bay at its base, and
the summit of the great limestone mass reddened by the hues of the
rising sun. It may be seen from the carriage-road which circles it,
and affords splendid views of mountain and sea, probably unsurpassed
in the kingdom; but the best way is to ascend to the summit by a
well-marked road north of the town leading from Church Street, and to
visit St. Tudno's Church, with its quaint entrance, 4½ feet in height,
of rugged stones, and its general aspect of antiquity. The church is
seen from Telegraph Point, which dominates the peninsula. A cromlech
lies to the left of the road leading to it, and the remains of a stone
circle are above the church. There is plenty of rough scrambling to be
obtained.
The carriage-drive is best entered near the pier (_motors one shilling
toll; pedestrians one penny_). The way rises and falls like the
Corniche Road; red rocks alternate with white or grey limestone; at
times the track is at a giddy height, and presently near the surface
of the water. The view up the Menai Straits, with the coasts of
Anglesey and Carnarvon nearing each other at the bridges, is very
fine, but when the farthest point of the headland is reached, that
which leads back to the town is no less beautiful, affording as it
does one of the finest prospects of the noble outline of the
Carnarvonshire Mountains.
The visitor should not fail to visit the Little Orme, where the sheer
cliffs and grassy summit often offer a seclusion much appreciated
after the boisterous exuberances of an August crowd. There are many
coigns of vantage around Llandudno from which the appreciative
traveller can gaze over mountain, sea, and strath, and also a number
of interesting edifices that may be visited if sufficient time is
allowed.
Unlike Aberystwyth, there is a considerable choice of hotels at
Llandudno. The Queen's is recommended for its fine position on the
front and for its general excellence.
[Illustration: CONWAY FROM BENARTH.
On the left is the famous Edwardian castle and leading to it is
Telford's tubular bridge. Great Orme's Head appears in the distance.]
SECTION V
(TRUNK ROUTE)
LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR, 18¾ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Llandudno= to Conway 3¾
=Conway= to Penmaenmawr 4½
=Penmaenmawr= to Llanfairfechan 2¾
=Llanfairfechan= to Bangor 7¾
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
At =Penmaenmawr= a gradient of 1 in 14.
Before reaching =Llanfairfechan= 1 in 12. Surface good.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Conway.=--The suspension bridge by Telford; castle; church; the
medieval town walls and bastions; Plas Mawr, a sixteenth-century
house.
=Penmaenmawr.=--Fine cliff scenery; large British fort above quarries.
=Llanfairfechan.=--A typical Welsh watering-place.
=Aber.=--Falls.
=Bangor.=--Model village of Llandegai; Penrhyn Castle; cathedral;
University buildings.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 5. LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR.]
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 5--CONWAY.]
The road into Conway leads over the suspension bridge built by
Telford, the harmony of the towers with the adjacent castle being a
subject of general congratulation. The entrance to ~the Castle~
(_admission 3d._) is close to the end of the bridge. The structure
possesses the characteristics of Edwardian castles, with more
ornamentation than usual, and was undoubtedly, when perfect, one of
the most magnificent fortresses in the kingdom. It commands, as usual,
one of the roads through the passes leading from Wales--that from the
Snowdon district and Anglesey. The chief points of interest are the
Queen's Tower, with its oratory, the Great Hall, the King's Tower, and
the Broken Tower. It is a matter for surprise that so much remains of
interest in the castle to the present day, which, like nearly all the
castles in Wales, was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The soft
grey colour of the stone, and the warm, rich greens and browns of the
foliage which creeps over them, is exceptionally pleasing; the
delightful views of the surrounding country, and the wonderful
position occupied by the massive walls, all conduce to render Conway
Castle a conspicuous landmark in the recollection of the traveller.
In passing down Castle Street, a late Perpendicular carved stone on
the front of a house on the south side is of interest, and so also is
a quaint building, now a temperance hall, dating from the year 1400.
One of the entrances ~to the Church~ lies in this street. The building
is of the Decorated period, and is of great interest, as it contains a
Perpendicular rood-loft, richly carved, with priests' entrance in
perfect preservation, and a fine screen; a lace humeral and corporal
400 years old, preserved behind glass in the vestry; and a curious
post-Reformation arched tomb on the south side of the chancel.
~The Walls~ of Conway are unique, and form the best example in Europe of
thirteenth-century scientific fortification. The Saracenic influence
engendered by the Crusades is strongly exemplified in their
construction; they are one mile in circuit, about 12 feet thick, with
four gates and many semicircular towers. The feature of piercing the
merlons of the battlements for the discharge of arrows is exemplified
here, as in the castle. This undulating, encircling wall, clothed with
creepers in parts, and presenting picturesque features at every turn,
is a dream of medievalism not often encountered. Upon the quay stands
the reputed smallest house in Great Britain, squeezed into a corner of
the fortifications; one can stand in the road and shake hands with a
person in the upper story.
~Plas Mawr~, or Queen Elizabeth's Palace (_admission 6d._), dates from
1585, and has its chief frontage in Crown Lane. It is a perfectly
preserved example of the architecture of that period, and abounds in
archæological objects of interest. The 365 windows and 52 doors are
not merely a coincidence.
* * * * *
Leaving Conway, the ~Sychnant Pass~ may be traversed if desired; it is a
steep road leading over the mountains to Penmaenmawr, revealing fine
views over the whole district.
The main road leads round the coast via Penmaenbach Point, near Conway
Mountain (upon which are traces of an ancient fort). At ~Penmaenmawr~
one finds a cluster of modern villas, of every size and design,
nestling at the foot of an enormous mass of stone towering up to a
height of 1,550 feet--the well-known Penmaenmawr Mountain. Upon the
summit, which affords a magnificent view for many miles round, are the
ruins of one of the strongest of the early British forts, said to
have accommodated 20,000 men. It is a matter for infinite regret that
this important link with primitive Wales should be doomed to disappear
through the steady advance of the huge quarries now eating into the
hill. These quarries, and the steep tramway-lines up to them, also
very seriously detract from the beauty of the spot. After leaving the
village, the great round hump upon the summit of the mountain can be
plainly seen from the road.
At ~Llanfairfechan~, a small seaside resort, one reaches a typical Welsh
resort--bathing-machines and sands combined with incipient
mountain-climbing.
~The Falls at Aber~ are two miles from the road, and can only be reached
by footpath. The effect of the falls varies greatly with the season;
but the climb up the valley towards Foel Fras is very fine. The road
now passes inland somewhat, and the views of the Straits, of
Beaumaris, and of Puffin Island, hitherto enjoyed, become obscured by
trees. Near Bangor one of the entrances to the park surrounding
Penrhyn Castle is seen upon the right, and here is the Model Village
of Llandegai, interesting to those engaged in the social problems of
the day. Workmen on the Penrhyn estate are housed in pretty cottages
grouped in twos or threes, and placed in gardens. Avenues of trees
shade the village roads, in the middle of which is Llandegai Church
(_the key generally hangs up in the porch_). A tomb with two recumbent
effigies of interest lies within: it came from Llanfaes Priory, but
whom it represents is not known; the armour of the knight and the
costume of the lady point to _c._ 1470. The church is charmingly clean
and well kept. In the village no public-house is allowed, a state of
things which has been productive of the very best results.
The road runs some distance by the park, and at times affords a view
of ~Penrhyn Castle~, the entrance to which is seen upon taking a sharp
turn to the right, when Penrhyn Port is perceived; the bridge leads up
to the gateway. (_Open Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, 10 to 5; 2s.
for one person; 1s. extra for each additional one. Half the proceeds
goes to local hospitals._) The castle is an impressive modern
reproduction of a Norman fortress; the keep reminds one of Rochester,
and is really fine. The interior is worth a visit, if only to see how
Lord Penrhyn has adapted modern luxury to the rough Norman
architecture.
BANGOR
Upon leaving the castle, University College is passed upon the right,
and a drive through the street leads to an open triangular space,
where the cathedral comes into sight. Although the cathedral site has
a rich history, having been occupied by the first church about 525,
yet the present edifice is singularly uninteresting and unimpressive.
This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the Saxon church was
destroyed in 1071, the Norman successor in 1211, and the Early English
building in 1407, when it was reduced to ruins, and remained so for
nearly a century. Consequently, the main part of the present edifice
only dates from Henry VII.'s reign, and the tower from 1532. There is
nothing of interest in the cathedral and but little outside. The
clock, however, upon the occasion of the writer's recent visit, was
worth noting, as the hands, the striking parts, and Greenwich time,
were all at variance. Thus, when the hands pointed to 9.54, Greenwich
time was 9.49, and the clock struck 10.
[Illustration: CONWAY VALLEY.
A peep of the River Conway between Bettws-y-Coed and Conway.]
From the road leading downwards by the cathedral there is a view of
the new University buildings, placed upon a commanding site
overlooking the town. Lower Bangor lies in an amphitheatre of
hills, upon which Upper Bangor is being built, the latter embracing
the fashionable part of the town, and also the goal of pleasure-seekers,
who patronize the sands and the pier.
LOOP No. 2
BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED, 20¼ MILES
(The scenery of these twenty miles is so remarkably impressive that
this short run is strongly recommended. The return journey can be made
via Conway (as described in Section V.), a distance of thirty miles,
or a return by the same road need not be shirked, for the scenery
unfolds fresh glories when travelling in the opposite direction.)
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Bangor= to Bethesda 5¼
=Bethesda= to Llyn Ogwen 4½
=Llyn Ogwen= to Capel Curig 5
=Capel Curig= to Bettws-y-Coed 5½
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
A steady rise from =Bethesda to Llyn Ogwen=, then level for 2 miles.
A long descent to =Bettws-y-Coed=, steep at times. Surface good.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Penrhyn Castle.=--Modern Norman structure (open to public).
=Llandegai Model Village.=--Church, with interesting tomb.
=Bethesda Slate Quarries.=
=Nant Ffrancon.=--Scenery wild and grand.
=Llyn Idwal and the Devil's Kitchen.=--Stern rock and lake scenery.
=Llyn Ogwen.=--A wild lake among the mountains.
=Capel Curig.=--The Cyfyng Falls; grand view of Snowdon.
=Bettws-y-Coed= (see p. 84).--A charming village in a steep leafy
valley.
[Map: LOOP 2. BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED.]
Those who wish to see Wales in all its aspects should on no account
miss the twenty-mile run from Bangor to Bettws. It has been termed the
most impressive pass in North Wales, and poetically referred to as
'Beauty sleeping in the lap of Horror.' To fully grasp the feeling of
the place a walk through it on a mild winter's day is desirable, and
on January 1 of last year one of the writers experienced that
sensation, when flying scud and wild lashing torrents of occasional
rain from whirling masses of black clouds upon the sombre peaks added
a realistic force to the wildness of the scene.
The road leading to Penrhyn Castle and Llandegai is that which should
be taken. At Bethesda a typical slate-quarrying town is reached, with
great 'tips' of refuse encircling it; the continual roar and rattle of
engines, dragging tramloads of slate, high above the roadway, is
punctuated with the occasional boom of the blastings. The quarries may
be visited if desired, when a memorable sight will be witnessed.
There is nothing in this centre of Welsh Nonconformity of antiquarian
interest, and soon a steady ascent leads from it into the Nant
Ffrancon Pass, presumably the Valley of Beavers. Upon the right lies a
range of mountains, each over 3,000 feet in height, and well known to
climbers--Elidyr Fawr, Y Garn, and Glyder Fawr, with Glyder Fach
straight in front, and the giant mass of Moel Siabod behind it. On the
left, Carnedd Llewelyn, 3,484 feet, and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet,
send down great shoulders into the pass, where the winding road, ever
ascending, climbs above the grassy valley lying between the encircling
giants. At Benglog Bridge, where the foaming Afon Ogwen leaps down the
boulders in a torrent, one is nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. Here
the lonely Llyn Ogwen comes into view, but before passing it the short
clamber over rocks to Llyn Idwal should on no account be omitted. The
path begins behind the little inn, and winds by the side of the stream
draining from the lake which abruptly comes into view. This lonely
tarn, with its waters reflecting the black scarp of Glyder Fawr,
seldom or never lit up by the sun's rays, and often lashed into foam
by the fierce eddies sweeping down from the mountains, is the very
embodiment of awe-inspiring impressiveness. Even if the day be
beautiful there is a wild loneliness, which is accentuated by the
legend of Prince Idwal being brutally murdered here by Dunawt at the
instigation of his father, to whom the youth had been entrusted by his
parents.
The terrific black chasm seen in the rocks overshadowing the pool is
named ~Twll Du~, or ~the Black Cleft~, but popularly 'The Devil's
Kitchen.' It is 450 feet high and 100 feet deep, narrowing in places
to 6 feet wide. A foaming cataract of troubled waters pours down,
forming in its fall the hollows at the base termed 'The Devil's Pots.'
Many fatal accidents to climbers have occurred here in ascending to
Llyn Bochlwyd, lying nearly 700 feet higher, on Glyder Fach, last year
(1910) being by no means immune.
South of Lake Ogwen, ~Tryfaen~, the three-headed mountain, is remarkably
impressive. Soon after the lake is passed a descent commences to Capel
Curig, where a magnificent view of the eastern slopes of Snowdon is
obtained between Moel Siabod and Glyder Fawr. The combined waters of
the Llugwy and Nant-y-Gwryd accompany the road as it leads downwards
to Bettws-y-Coed, with the Swallow Falls and Miners' Bridge, as
previously noticed (see p. 84).
SECTION VI
(TRUNK ROUTE)
BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY, 65¾ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Bangor= to Carnarvon 9
=Carnarvon= to Llanberis 7½
=Llanberis= to Pen-y-Gwryd 6½
=Pen-y-Gwryd= to Beddgelert 7¾
=Beddgelert= to Penrhyn Deudraeth 7½
=Penrhyn Deudraeth= to Harlech 6½
=Harlech= to Barmouth 11
=Barmouth= to Dolgelley 10
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Bangor to Carnarvon.=--Nearly level and splendid surface.
=Carnarvon to Llanberis.=--Steep hills for 4 miles, then easy
gradients and good surface.
Steady rise through =Pass of Llanberis=.
Remainder of the route splendid surface, with occasional moderate
hills.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Carnarvon.=--The Roman town of _Segontium_; magnificent
thirteenth-century castle; town walls; St. Mary's Church.
Splendid views of the =Snowdon precipices=.
=Llanberis.=--A popular resort consisting of old and new villages;
Dolbadarn Castle; waterfall; slate quarries; mountain railway.
=Pass of Llanberis.=--Cromlech, so called; impressive scenery.
=Beddgelert.=--A picturesque village; Gelert's grave; church;
prettiest part of route.
=Aberglaslyn.=--Pass and bridge; delightful scenery.
=Penrhyn.=--Ffestiniog Toy Railway; Deudraeth Castle, of modern
construction.
=Harlech.=--County town (small) of Merioneth; castle in commanding
position.
=Llanbedr.=--A village; Llyn Cwm Bychan, a wild lake; Roman steps.
=Llanddwywe.=--Church; Cors-y-Gedol cromlechs.
=Llanaber.=--Church, Early English architecture; interesting stone
relic.
=Barmouth.=--Modern watering-place; bridge; panorama walk; magnificent
views of the estuary of the Mawddach.
=Bontddu.=--Water-fall.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.]
[Map: No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.]
The road from Bangor leads past the ~Menai Suspension Bridge~ over the
Straits, once a wonder of the world, but now overshadowed by the Forth
Bridge and others. It was opened in 1826. The total length of the
roadway is 1,000 feet, which is suspended over the water at a height
of 100 feet above the highest spring-tide. The view from the bridge is
most picturesque, but it is hardly worth while to take a car over.
(_Motor-car 2s. toll; foot passengers 1d. each._) The bridge has a
very distinct swing in a high wind. Farther on one sees the ~Britannia
Tubular Bridge~, opened in 1850, and carrying the railway across in two
hollow tubes of enormous strength. No one can accuse this engineering
feat of being beautiful, but it has thoroughly proved its efficiency.
The Anglesey Column forms a prominent landmark at the farther end of
the bridge; it was erected as a memorial of the Marquis of Anglesey
who distinguished himself at Waterloo. The well-known Plas Newydd, the
residence of the present peer, lies adjacent, and there also is the
village of ~Llanfair~, sometimes Llanfair Pwll Gwyngyll, and a full name
of fifty-four letters if one is still more respectful. At Port
Dinorwic vessels load up with slates from Bethesda. The view of the
Anglesey coast is fine at first, but the shores gradually deteriorate
as one reaches Carnarvon, eventually spreading out in mud flats.
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 6--CARNARVON.]
CARNARVON
As the great Roman town and fortress of _Segontium_, the reputed
birthplace of Constantine the Great, the site of a famous feudal
fortress, and the birthplace of the first Prince of Wales, Carnarvon
undoubtedly occupies a unique position in British history, and, as it
still possesses tangible evidences of most of its past record, the
traveller is unwise who passes by without a stay of at least a few
hours' duration, though a few days would be more appropriate.
[Map: GROUND PLAN OF CARNARVON CASTLE.
A. Eagle Tower.
B. Queen's Tower.
C. Chamberlain's Tower.
D. Black Tower.
E. Granary Tower.
F. Well Tower.
G. Banqueting Hall.]
Behind the Royal Hotel, which is passed on entering the town, is a
small rocky knob, easily climbed, called Twt Hill, a coign of vantage
for viewing the Carnarvon mountains, the Straits, Anglesey, and
Carnarvon itself. On a clear day the mountains of Wicklow can be seen,
and as a practical exponent of the ichnography of the town the hill is
of great use. The approach to the castle by a narrow road suddenly
reveals a view of ~Carnarvon Castle~, the vast dimensions of which may
probably be best gleaned by walking down to the slate wharf on the
River Seoint, laving the walls. Here the great height of the walls,
the quality of the excellent stonework, and the general effect of
impregnability, are realized. Returning to the main entrance, the
great arch known as the ~Queen's Doorway~ is passed high up in the
wall; it is the traditional spot whence the infant Edward was shown to
the Welsh chieftains by his father. The drawbridge at one time crossed
the street at this point; an inn now occupies the sight of the
barbican. Within the castle (_admission 4d._) the visitor is at once
struck with the idea that a medieval fortress in its entirety is
presented to the view; there are no crumbling ruins or ivy-clad masses
of fallen masonry, as in the majority of structures of this nature.
This is accounted for by the fact that it belongs to the Crown, and
every stone as it becomes weathered is carefully replaced. The castle
is, in fact, a most interesting study for the archæologist, as
illustrating medieval methods of defence. The Eagle Tower, the reputed
apartment where Edward II. was born, the Queen's Gateway, and other
interesting parts, are pointed out by the keeper. It should be
remembered that the castle is the finest in Europe except one; that it
was built by Edward I. in 1283, heightened by Edward II., garrisoned
by the Royalists in the Civil War under Lord Byron, and after an able
defence surrendered to the Parliamentarians, who ordered its
demolition in 1660, which was fortunately not carried out. ~The Town
Walls~ of Carnarvon are interesting objects to the visitor, as is also
St. Mary's Church, built into the walls, a tower forming the vestry
and the walls two sides of the church.
Of _Segontium_, the great Roman station, but little remains. A portion
of the wall, in bad condition, lies in a narrow lane at the top of the
hill, gained by ascending Pool Street and Tithebarn Street and passing
round to the right, at the back of the Rectory, before reaching
Llanbeblig Church. There are other and better sections to be seen by
making inquiries. In one instance, in the front-garden of a house, it
is some 20 feet in height, formed of beautifully squared stones, and
can be seen from the roadway; by the courtesy of the occupiers it is
quite possible for a nearer view to be obtained. This wall undoubtedly
extended to the river.
* * * * *
The road to ~Llanberis~ leads from Castle Square up Pool Street for a
short distance, when Llanberis Road is entered. The route is to a
certain extent spoilt at first by intrusive chimneys and other
industrial manifestations. Llyn Padarn has also been ruined by
quarries, and probably was never celebrated for scenery. The peak of
Snowdon is seen intermittently upon the right, but the chief mountain
features are Elidyr Fawr (the other side of which has been seen from
Nant Ffrancon) and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet.
~Llanberis~ is a favourite tourists' resort for fishing and
mountain-climbing, and a headquarters for excursions to neighbouring
points.
~Dolbadarn Castle~ is of remote antiquity, and probably existed in the
sixth century, its position making it a fortress of importance. It has
probably seen as much wild work as any castle in Wales, especially
during the Glendower period, being the master-key to the Snowdon
region.
~Old Llanberis~, beyond Llyn Peris, is more picturesque than the new,
and contains a church, which is chiefly interesting on account of the
graves in the churchyard of those who have lost their lives on
Snowdon. The entrance to the famous ~Pass of Llanberis~, between Glyder
Fawr and Snowdon, is very impressive, and the narrowness of the valley
gives it a distinct character compared with Nant Ffrancon. It is
probably the finest mountain defile traversed by a carriage-road in
the Principality. A huge mass of rock, which in falling has produced a
natural cromlech, is to be seen on the left. The summit of Glyder Fawr
appears before the end of the pass is reached, but that of Snowdon is
still hidden. The highest point of the pass is 1,179 feet above
sea-level. The views obtained upon reaching Pen-y-Gwryd are a relief
after the wildness of the route traversed. Moel Siabod to the left
front, with the sugar-loaf height of Cynicht, are prominent features,
while the view down the Gwynant Valley is one of the sweetest
prospects in Wales. At the hotel occurs an abrupt turning to the
right, and a sharp descent leads to Llyn Gwynant, a picturesque lake,
from which a grand view of the rugged slopes of Snowdon is obtained.
Llyn-y-Ddinas, farther on, is scarcely less pleasing. Soon afterwards
BEDDGELERT
is entered, the most romantically situated village in Wales, standing
at the junction of three valleys, leading respectively to Carnarvon,
Portmadoc, and Capel Curig, and surrounded by a grand array of
mountain peaks. It derives its name from the story of Llewellyn's
hound, and means 'the grave of Gelert.' The rude monument said to
have been erected by the Prince in his repentance for the hasty act
may be reached in a few hundred yards from the village. Moel Habog,
2,566 feet, is an easy climb from here. The road to Penrhyn Deudraeth
leads through the romantic Pass of Aberglaslyn, and emerges upon the
far-famed bridge, where the rich colouring of the rocks, full of
exquisite contrasts with the foliage, delights the eye at every
glance. There are many parts of Switzerland that afford similar
visions of beauty and grandeur, but what Pont Aberglaslyn loses in
size it gains in the beauty of its colour. The junction of two roads
occurs here--one to Tremadoc, the other to Penrhyn. The latter drops
to an extensive and dreary plain, Traeth Mawr, across which the road
winds with many a sharp turn. The views of the distant mountains are
very effective, while straight in front the Castle of Harlech becomes
a prominent feature, with the waters of Cardigan Bay to right and
left.
[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF PENMAENMAWR.
Between Conway and Bangor.]
~Penrhyn Deudraeth~ is a mining village of no interest, except as the
starting-point of the Ffestiniog narrow-gauge railway. Here the river
draining the Vale of Ffestiniog enters a large sheet of water called
Traeth Bach, and, crossing it by a bridge, the Morfa Harlech, an
uninteresting flat, is entered, with the modern Castle of Deudraeth to
the right. Here the road runs between the Morfa and the high country
to the left, until it reaches the little town of
HARLECH
Unless the visitor should happen to be a golfer and a frequenter of
the famous St. David's Club Links, there is practically nothing of
interest in the neighbourhood except the castle, famous in history and
song, which occupies a precipitous elevation in the front of the town.
The entry is opposite the Castle Hotel. (_Admission 4d._) A fortress
of some sort existed as early as the third century, when Bronwen, or
White-Bosomed, the daughter of Bran the Blessed, lived here. About 550
a more substantial pile was raised, but this in turn was replaced by
the present castle, built by Edward I. in 1280, who, however,
incorporated much of the older building in his new fortress. In 1404
it was seized by Glendower, but retaken by the King's troops in 1408.
Margaret of Anjou took refuge in it after Northampton in 1460. Edward
IV., after a long siege, captured it in 1468, and the 'March of the
Men of Harlech' dates from that period. During the Civil War the
castle was alternately in possession of both parties. It is now Crown
property. The magnificent view from the battlements should be seen.
Across the bay, seven miles, is the sister castle of Criccieth, while
the long promontory of Carnarvon, termed Lleyn, forms a bold feature
on the north-western horizon. The two highest elevations on the
promontory are The Rivals, and Bardsey Island is the detached
fragment. To the right there is a line of mountain peaks to Moel Hebod
and the Snowdon heights. Two and a half miles to the south of Harlech
the Island of Mochras lies off the shore, joined at low tide by an
isthmus. It is chiefly visited for its beautiful shells. Near it is
the commencement of the Sarn Badrig, a curious ledge of rocks, bare at
low tide, which runs far out into the waters of the bay. A similar
formation, though of less extent, lies off Aberystwyth. To the
antiquary the country to the east of Harlech is of the greatest
interest; it teems with relics, chiefly prehistoric, such as
cromlechs, stone circles, and dolmens. The far-famed Roman Steps, the
Lake of Cwm Bychan, with its abnormally savage surroundings, the Drws
Ardudwy, all lie in this interesting hinterland, mostly far away from
the main road. Near Llanbedr, however, between the road and the river,
and just short of the village, are two long stones, and another
bearing an Ogham inscription. ~Llanddwywe Church~ is not of any
particular interest, but two cromlechs stand nearly opposite the
King's Head Inn, about eighty yards from the road. The large cromlech
known as Arthur's Quoit is at some distance, near Cors-y-Gedol, the
old seat of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Cors-y-Gedol. The church at
~Llanaber~ is of Early English architecture, and should be visited. An
inscribed stone of much interest and with various decipherings stands
near the north-west door; it was found below low-water mark on the
beach near the church.
BARMOUTH
This rather overbuilt watering-place is situated in a romantic
position at the mouth of the Mawddach, and is remarkable for its
genial winter climate, the town being protected by the high hills
surrounding it. Apart from the visitors who crowd into the town during
the summer season, there are a great number who utilize it as a centre
for mountaineering, antiquarian, geological, and fishing excursions.
The houses are built up the face of the cliff, so that the
chimney-pots of one house are opposite the front-door of the house
behind, and it is possible to diagnose a neighbour's dinner by the
odours thus conveyed. The church is new, but some interesting
geological contortions occur near it. The view from the railway bridge
is one of the most remarkable in Wales. (_The toll is 2d., and one of
the best times for seeing the estuary and its mountainous setting is
at sunset._) High tide helps the scene enormously. A rich and sombre
purple, partly clothing the mountains, melts into exquisite gradations
of green and velvety browns. Cader Idris, upon the right, fills all
that side of the picture; the Arrans furnish the centre distance;
while the outliers of Llawr Lech and Y Garn occupy the left. A
well-known projection on the flanks of Cader is the Giant's Nose.
The Panorama Walk is a favourite stroll from Barmouth; it is commenced
at a terrace bearing the curious name of Porkington, and
direction-boards indicate the route. The path truly deserves the name
it has been given, although the labelling of scenery in this way is
exceedingly distasteful.
THE ESTUARY OF THE MAWDDACH
The road to Dolgelley lies upon the northern shore of this famous
estuary, and for beauty and impressiveness cannot easily be
overpraised. The many windings in the road accentuate its charm,
glimpses, sometimes of entrancing beauty, being frequently presented
to the traveller. Besides the scenery there are no special objects to
be indicated upon the road; just beyond Brintirion, however, a stream
descends which has passed through the gold-field of St. David's, lying
upon the slopes of the mountain above. The ruins of ~Cymmer Abbey~, near
Llanelltyd, remind one forcibly of Valle Crucis Abbey, so charming and
reposeful are the surroundings. It was founded _c._ 1200 by the
Cistercians, and dissolved at the Reformation. The adjoining farmhouse
contains parts of the refectory and abbot's lodging. The eastern
portion of the church is in the best preservation, and upon the south
are a few Early English arches and pillars. The road here turns
sharply to the right to Dolgelley, and, entering this quaintly-situated
little town, the Golden Lion Hotel is found in the market-place near the
church.
LOOP No. 3
DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN, 40 MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Dolgelley= to Penmaenpool 2½
=Penmaenpool= to Arthog 4½
=Arthog= to Llwyngwril 5
=Llwyngwril= to Llanegryn 4
=Llanegryn= to Abergynolwyn 6
=Abergynolwyn= to Tal-y-llyn 3
=Tal-y-llyn= to Corris 4
=Corris= to Machynlleth 5
=Machynlleth= to Cemmaes 6
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Surface to =Llwyngwril= excellent.
Near =Arthog= gradient of 1 in 10.
Near =Friog= gradient of 1 in 14.
Ascent of 1 in 9 near =Abergynolwyn=, and descent of 1 in 6 into the
village.
After =Tal-y-llyn= ascent of 1 in 7, and descent to =Corris= 1 in 16.
Surface generally good to =Machynlleth=.
Then excellent road, but hilly, to =Cemmaes=.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Arthog.=--Waterfalls.
=Llwyngwril.=--A village; remains of Castell-y-Gaer.
=Llanegryn.=--Church with magnificent rood-loft; Bird Rock in
distance.
=Tal-y-llyn.=--A lake near Cader Idris.
=Corris.=--Toy railway; slate district.
=Machynlleth.=--Market town; remains of old Senate-house.
[Map: LOOP 3. DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN.]
The road from Dolgelley passes, with many windings, from the town to
the estuary at Penmaenpool, to which place excursion steamers run
during the summer from Barmouth. Although the scenery upon the south
bank of the Mawddach is not so fine as that upon the north, yet the
mountains of Ardudwy, as the hinterland of Barmouth was anciently
called, present an imposing aspect, and sometimes compose a pretty
picture when seen through the umbrageous foliage which lines the road
on both sides. If the tide be high, the view is accentuated by the
reflections in the broad expanse of water, and singularly beautiful
glimpses are at times displayed. The undulating road, flanked at times
by the universal whitewashed cottages, reaches ~Arthog~, a small village
situated at the base of a finely wooded, diversified ground, about a
mile from which are the Arthog Lakes, and at a short distance from the
hotel a waterfall, of considerable beauty after a heavy fall of
rain, but much attenuated in dry weather. At Friog the slate quarries
are apparent on the left of the road, and a steady rise begins,
leading to an excellent retrospective view of Barmouth, Harlech
Castle, and the Lleyn Peninsula to Bardsey.
[Illustration: SNOWDON FROM TRAETH MAWR.]
LLWYNGWRIL
is a small village, with the Dyffryn River passing through it under a
bridge. Castell-y-Gaer lies upon its banks at a short distance up the
stream, consisting of small masses of broken ivy-clad masonry, of an
unknown fortress so far as history is concerned. Upon the bridge
before mentioned on Sunday evenings after church or chapel the youths
and maidens of the village congregate to sing the sweet Welsh refrains
handed down through long generations, and harmonized with a beauty of
feeling which only a music-loving nation can express. Among the men
singularly rich basses prevail; north of Barmouth, strange to say,
tenors predominate. The route turns abruptly inland beyond
Llangelynin, and the village of
LLANEGRYN,
lying off the main road, but approached by a lane, appears on the
left. It contains a church well worth visiting, inasmuch as the superb
rood-screen is among the finest in the British Isles. It is of early
Perpendicular work, and the loft above is quite perfect except for the
actual rood and the figures of saints. A good roof and an interesting
Norman font should also be noticed.
THE BIRD ROCK
may be seen from this point, an isolated crag of peculiar shape
standing up black and dour against the mountains beyond. The weird
beauty of the landscape can hardly be overpraised. The road leading
straight onwards passes almost underneath the rock, but the main route
to the right descends to the bridge over the river, draining the
Dysynni Valley, and Tal-y-llyn. Here are some sharp turns, but
presently the very narrow road is reached, leading directly to the
lake. Passing another vehicle is not an easy matter. The scenery
increases in beauty as one progresses, the little railway to the right
having scarcely the smallest deteriorating effect upon the valley. The
ruins of Castell-y-Bere, formerly one of the largest in Wales, and
once visited by Edward I., lie in the adjacent valley to the left, to
which the narrow road leads, coming into Abergynolwyn on the left.
TAL-Y-LLYN
Tal-y-llyn is a quarter of a mile in width, and a little over a mile
in length. It lies under Cader Idris, although the summit is not
visible from it; two great craters, however, carved in its rocky
flanks, form a fitting background on the left. In front lies a valley,
by ascending which the ~Cross Foxes Inn~ is reached, and subsequently
Dolgelley. Extravagant praise has been lavished upon the lake by many
travellers, but one misses some essentials to claims of exceptional
beauty. No quality of mystery appeals to the imagination; the lake
does not lie in an appalling neighbourhood of black riven rocks or in
a glen of surpassing beauty. All is open, and the whole is seen at one
vision. Anglers, however, find Tal-y-llyn an ideal spot. At the
farther end of the lake the road, after a branch track to the right by
a cottage has been passed, turns to the right up a steep ascent, from
whose summit a retrospective view of the lake is perhaps the best
obtainable. The road to Corris through Nant Gwgan is pretty, with
occasional waterfalls and stone slides from the shoulders of mountains
towering hundreds of feet above the pass. The rich browns and greens
and subtler shades of grey form charming contrasts of colour.
Unfortunately, the lower end of the pass is disfigured by many slate
quarries. Upper Corris is strongly reminiscent of Bethesda. A monument
is erected here on the left side of the road to Alfred W. Hughes,
F.R.C.S., who died in 1900 of fever during the war in South Africa. A
quarry railway, with a miniature station and a gauge of 2 feet 3
inches, runs by the side of the road. At Corris, which is a
slate-mining town pure and simple, the road trends to the right, and
the view becomes less circumscribed as the vale of Afon Dulas widens
out. When the Dovey Valley is reached a wide expanse of alluvial land
comes into view, through which the river meanders westwards towards
its estuary.
MACHYNLLETH
Machynlleth is a spacious and well-built market town and borough with
two main streets, wide and pleasant, with well-kept shops, thus
forming a marked contrast in that respect to the majority of Welsh
towns. It forms one of the centres of the woollen industry of the
county, and indulges somewhat in the tanning business as well. The
clock-tower is a prominent object; the church has no features of
interest worth recording; the Market-house dates only from 1783, and
of antiquarian curiosities there are but few. An old black-and-white
cottage at the end of Maengwyn Street, which branches off to the left
at the chief main street, has 'OWEN PUGH O VXOR 1628' for 'Owen Pugh
and wife.' The 'O,' however, is baffling as a conjunction. Opposite
are portions of the old Senate-house, the reputed building in which
Owen Glendower succeeded in persuading the nobles and commons to
acknowledge him Prince of Wales in 1402. Upon the hills surrounding
Machynlleth remains occur which appear to indicate that the town was a
Roman station, and coins have occasionally been found to confirm
this. A good road up the Valley of the Dovey leads to Cemmaes, where
the trunk route is again reached.
(_For a description of the road from Cemmaes to Dolgelley, see Section
VII._)
LOOP No. 4
CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG, 49¾ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Cemmaes= to Machynlleth 5½
=Machynlleth= to Talybont 10¾
=Talybont= to Aberystwyth 9¼
=Aberystwyth= to Goginan 7½
=Goginan= to Ponterwyd 4¼
=Ponterwyd= to Dyffryn Castell Hotel 2
=Dyffryn Castell Hotel= to Llangurig 10½
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Cemmaes to Aberystwyth.=--Good surface all the way, but hilly; worst
gradients before and after Talybont, 1 in 13 and 1 in 11.
First 12 miles after =Aberystwyth= splendid surface, then becomes a
little rough and bumpy to =Llangurig=.
There are some steep hills in the neighbourhood of the =Devil's
Bridge=.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Glandovey= (or =Glan Dyfi=).--Entrance for the beautiful Lyfnant
Valley; view over the estuary.
=Aberystwyth.=--A considerable town, with ruins of an Edwardian castle
and the University buildings.
=The Devil's Bridge.=--Grand scenery; the Parson's Bridge; the Punch
Bowl.
[Map: Loop 4. CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG.]
The road down the Valley of the Dovey presents a pretty panorama, but
possesses no particular feature to arrest attention--it is merely a
pleasant drive.
GLANDOVEY
This small place stands at the entrance to the Lyfnant Valley, one of
the most distractingly beautiful little glens in the whole of Wales,
with waterfalls, torrents, and utter wildness of vegetation, and
stern, bleak splendour at the farther end, where Pistyll-y-Llyn
showers its two foaming torrents headlong into the black caldron
beneath. The first cataract met, the Glaspwll Cascade, is a fine one,
but it cannot vie with the more remote example. There is a prettily
situated small castle on the left of the road. The estuary of the
Dovey now appears, and if the tide be at the flood, presents a very
fine prospect. Aberdovey generally has a brig or two lying off the
quay. An extensive salt marsh now comes into view, between which and
the high land the road runs. ~Borth~ lies on the coast of this plain;
its hydro, links, and beautiful sands attract visitors during the
summer. At Tre-Taliesin we are reminded of the grave of Taliesin, the
'King of the Bards' during the sixth century; the pilgrimage to his
grave, which lies about a mile to the left of the road, is a favourite
one from Aberystwyth. Two miles farther on the remains of a British
camp or fort crown the summit of Moel-y-Gaer, close to the road upon
the right; they are remarkably well preserved, and in the
neighbourhood are some Druidical circles. In this district the open
country around is quite park-like in many places; at times, however,
it reminds one of parts of Devonshire. About two miles from
Aberystwyth there is a beautiful vista of Cardigan Bay and the coast
laved by its waters, with the town lying below at the termination of a
long and rather trying hill.
ABERYSTWYTH
Aberystwyth not only boasts of a high antiquity, but also of having
been the commercial centre for the Mid-Welsh counties. The trade has
now dwindled, but as a watering-place it easily holds its own as one
of the most frequented in Wales. The chief points of interest are:
~The Castle~, the ruins of which occupy a position of prominence in the
centre of the town, was built by Gilbert de Strongbow in the reign of
Henry I. It was destroyed by Owen Gwynedd, and rebuilt by Edward I.;
in the Civil War it was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The
grounds are now laid out in pleasant walks, affording fine views of
the coast.
~The University Buildings~ adjoin the castle, and may be termed one of
the finest examples of recent architecture in the Principality. The
general effect of the modern buildings in the town is depressing,
probably owing to the use of the dark Silurian stone, covered with the
universal slate roof.
The town is happy in having an immediate neighbourhood of great
interest to the antiquary and to the ordinary tourist, inasmuch as
many pleasant excursions may be indulged in, such, for example, as the
visits to Strata Florida Abbey, the Monk's Cave, Lyfnant Valley, and
the Devil's Bridge.
The route to Llangurig commences in Aberystwyth, in Northgate Street,
and runs through Llanbadarn. At Pont Erwydd a road leads south to the
Devil's Bridge, fifteen miles, a feature which should not on any
account be missed.
An alternative route, eleven and three-quarter miles to the bridge, is
a part of the direct road to Rhayader.
(_a_) ~First Route, the Pont Erwydd.~--Road level for first six miles,
then rise to 1,027 feet; hilly.
~Llanbadarn.~--Church much restored.
~Bangor~ to ~Goginan~.--Lead-mines have destroyed scenery. A wild country
around Pont Erwydd, where the route turns to the right.
(_b_) ~Alternative Route.~--The direct road to Devil's Bridge commences
in Bridge Street, crosses the harbour, and passes under the railway.
About five miles out Cader Idris appears, twenty miles away to the
left. The view afterwards into the Rheidol Valley is very fine. The
highest point of the road, 989 feet above sea-level, commands a fine
view of the two peaks of Plynlimmon. Castell-fan-Crach is a
prehistoric earthwork.
~The Devil's Bridge~ is situated in what is probably the finest and most
picturesque glen in the British Isles; the approach to it by either of
the roads described gives only a slight idea of its merits. The monks
of Strata Florida Abbey are supposed to have built the arch in the
time of Rufus; the second bridge dates from 1814. The Devil's Punch
Bowl, the Robbers' Cave, and the Falls of the Rheidol, should be seen.
The road to Llangurig from Pont Erwydd leads through a bare valley
containing a large number of abandoned lead-mines--the dead hopes of
thousands of sanguine speculators. The highest point of the road,
1,368 feet, is only two and a half miles from the summit of Plynlimmon
(2,469 feet high), about two miles from the source of the Wye, and
four miles from that of the Severn. The mountain is dull and
uninteresting, being more of a flat spreading lump than a peak, and
has extensive tracts of bog-land and marsh. Descending towards
Llangurig, the Wye is crossed near an inn, and accompanies the road
down the valley, which is cultivated to a certain extent in its lower
portion. At Llangurig the main route is reached between Llanidloes and
Rhayader.
(_For a description of the 30½ miles between Llangurig and Cemmaes,
see Section VII._)
SECTION VII
(TRUNK ROUTE)
DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG, 48¼ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Dolgelley= to Cross Foxes 3½
=Cross Foxes= to Dinas Mawddwy 7
=Dinas Mawddwy= to Cemmaes 7¼
=Cemmaes= to Llanbrynmair 5¾
=Llanbrynmair= to Carno 6
=Carno= to Caersws 5¼
=Caersws= to Llandinam 2½
=Llandinam= to Llanidloes 6
=Llanidloes= to Llangurig 5
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Steady rise to =Cross Foxes=, then very steep ascent to top of =Cold
Door Pass= (1 in 8), 988 feet high.
Easy descent to =Dinas Mawddwy=.
=Dinas Mawddwy to Carno.=--Undulating, but a rise just before Carno, 1
in 12.
=Carno to Caersws.=--Steady descent, occasionally sharp.
After =Caersws= undulating, with a few stiff hills to =Llangurig=.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Dolgelley.=--Small town possessing little interest in itself.
Surroundings include Torrent Walk, Precipice Walk, Cader Idris, and
innumerable spots to which excursions on foot may be taken.
=Cross Foxes.=--Splendid view from near this inn.
=Dinas Mawddwy.=--A little town, prettily situated; grand view of Aran
Mawddwy, 2,970 feet.
=Talerddig.=--A natural rock arch.
=Caersws.=--Small village on site of Roman station, with visible
earthworks.
=Llanidloes.=--A typical Welsh market town; the church; Van Mines.
=Llangurig.=--The highest village in Wales.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 7. DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG.]
DOLGELLEY,
the capital town of Merionethshire, is situated in a wide and fertile
valley of singular beauty at the foot of Cader Idris. The streets are
exceptionally short and irregular. The parish church of St. Mary has
no particular merits; in it is preserved a fourteenth-century effigy
of one of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Nannau. From Dolgelley various
excursions may be made to such places of rare beauty as the ~Precipice
Walk~, cut high up on the face of Moel Cynwch, with views over the
Gaullwyd Valley. ~The Torrent Walk~ is beautified by the rich greens and
browns lavished by Nature on the rocks by the foaming torrent of the
Clywedog. Three fine waterfalls are also to be found in the
neighbourhood, one the well-known Pistyll-y-Cain, while the ascent of
Cader from this town is a very desirable one.
The road from Dolgelley to Dinas Mawddwy is an interesting one, both
by reason of the stiff climbs and also the fine views that accompany
it. The surface is generally inclined to be rough, and upon the
occasion of the writer's recent visit the portion leading down into
Dolgelley was appallingly bad. No doubt this state of things does not
exist now. At the ~Cross Foxes Inn~ the road turns sharply to the left
and mounts to ~Cold Door Pass~, situated upon a bleak moor, with a
splendid view of Cader Idris standing in grand isolation and beauty.
Many mountains suffer by the proximity of other heights, but Cader is
an exception. From the pass the road gradually descends through a
valley, increasing in beauty of verdure and foliage, to Dinas Mawddwy.
DINAS MAWDDWY
This sequestered little town lies in a deep hollow formed by the
junction of two valleys, which discharge the streams they respectively
contain into the Dovey, occupying the main valley. The town consists
of one long street, with the grounds and house of Plas at the
termination. The church is chiefly known for its enormous yews, one in
particular being of really vast dimensions. Dinas Mawddwy is a centre
for anglers, sportsmen, and artists, and, during the season, for
excursionists. From the road a waterfall is a prominent feature.
The road from Dinas Mawddwy follows the course of the Dovey, and lies
in a valley of singular beauty; although the mountains on either side
seldom approach 1,500 feet, yet they possess a beauty of form which
seems characteristic of the district, and are, as a rule, well wooded.
CEMMAES
is a fairly large village lying off the main road, and nestling for
shelter under an outlying crag of the mountains to the west. Shortly
after, at Cemmaes Road, the route turns sharply to the left (by going
straight on one approaches Machynlleth), and looking backwards a fine
array of familiar peaks are seen up the broad valley just traversed.
The road to Caersws is at first very winding, with occasional sharp
dips; pleasant glimpses are obtained into well-wooded glens, where
tributaries of the river flow over their troubled course to join the
Afon Garno, or Carno, and before reaching Carno an extraordinary
stratification of the rocks is revealed, chiefly in the railway
cutting. A natural arch of anticlinal stratification occurs at
Talerddig, with every appearance of being built of masonry. At Carno
the valley becomes open and pastoral.
CAERSWS
stands at the confluence of the River Carno and the Severn, and was a
place of considerable importance in the Roman period. Their influence
is still seen in the straight piece of road just traversed, and in
other sections still to be passed. In the centre of the village the
winter camp is seen, a rampart about 150 yards square, with the road
cutting across the centre. The vallum and accompanying fosse are at
some points well preserved. Several summer camps occupy the
surrounding heights, and many traces of the great Roman road going
east and west are to be discovered. At Moat Lane Junction, which lies
at a short distance to the left of the route, is a rectangular earthen
fort, with a moat adjacent surrounding a high mound, now covered with
firs. At ~Llandinam~ a statue to a certain David Davies stands
prominently by the roadside. The Severn Valley here is wide and open,
with many plantations of firs; the railway runs close beside the river
for miles. In the distance upon the right may be seen the rounded
summits of Plynlimmon, often dark and sombre against the sky.
LLANIDLOES
This is a typical Welsh market town, extremely uninteresting and
remarkably dull, with the depressing style of architecture so
characteristic of the majority of houses in the Principality.
Externally dreary, too, are the places of worship, and one longs for a
board of architects and artists who will supervise new building plans
and save the land from further ugliness, so conspicuous where Nature
is so full of artistry. The town is devoted to the Welsh flannel
industry, and is well known to climbers as the jumping-off point for
the ascent of Plynlimmon, about ten miles to the west as the crow
flies. In the deeply furrowed shoulders of this mountain are the
birthplaces of two famous rivers, the Wye and the Severn. About two
miles north of the town are the Van Lead Mines, once so important; and
upon Van Hill, close to them, occurs a large hill-fort, of which so
many are scattered about this district.
The Market-house is of wood, and decidedly quaint; the church
possesses a ceiling of carved oak, reputed to have been transported
from the suppressed Abbey of Cwm Hir, in Radnorshire; it stands near
the bridge, and is dedicated to St. Idloes. From this point a rather
pretty view is obtained of the Severn uniting with a tributary, the
Clywedog.
The five miles between Llanidloes and Llangurig present occasionally
landscapes reminding one forcibly of English pastorals, if the
mountains can possibly be kept out of sight. The village of ~Llangurig~
possesses a small church of no very great interest; perhaps the chief
fact connected with the place is that the village is the highest in
Wales, for it stands at an elevation of nearly 1,000 feet above the
level of the sea.
(_For the road between Llangurig and Talgarth, see pp. 180-185._)
=LOOP= No. 5
=FIRST PORTION=: TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S--=SECOND PORTION=: ST. DAVID'S TO
HEREFORD
TALGARTH TO CARDIGAN AND ST. DAVID'S, 117¼ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Talgarth (Bronllys)= to Brecon 8¼
=Brecon= to Llandovery 20¾
=Llandovery= to Llanwrda 4¼
=Llanwrda= to Pumpsaint 8
=Pumpsaint= to Lampeter 8¼
=Lampeter= to Newcastle 23
=Newcastle= to Cardigan 10½
=Cardigan= to Newport 12
=Newport= to Fishguard 6¾
=Fishguard= to St. David's 15½
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
To =Brecon= good road, and thence to =Llandovery= splendid.
=Llandovery to Lampeter.=--Very good; to =Cardigan=, steep hills at
times.
=Cardigan to Fishguard.=--A succession of steep hills, mostly 1 in 11
or 12; at =Fishguard= descent and ascent of 1 in 7, dangerous turns;
dangerous hairpin turn on the hill into =Nevern=.
=Fishguard to St. David's.=--Undulating, but good.
=PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE=
=Brecon.=--Very pleasant town; the Priory Church, a massive structure,
chiefly Early English and Decorated; fragments of town walls.
=Llandovery.=--A small and not unpicturesque town; ruins of the
castle.
=Llanwrda.=--A pretty village in fine mountain scenery.
=Lampeter.=--A small town famous as a fishing centre. The college is
the chief building.
=Newcastle Emlyn.=--Small town with beautiful ruins of the castle.
=Cardigan.=--A considerable town; the bridge over the Teifi; the
remains of the castle; church not interesting. Within three miles
are--(1) St. Dogmael's Priory ruins; (2) the beautifully-situated
Kilgerran Castle.
=Nevern.=--Castle ruins; a very interesting church with early
inscribed crosses.
=Newport.=--A small fishing town; the castle.
=Fishguard.=--Goodwick Sands; the harbour; the Pen Caer Peninsula;
fine coast scenery.
=St. David's.=--A small scattered place, scarcely more than a village;
beautiful cathedral; picturesque ruins of the palace. Grand
coast-line, deeply indented.
[Map: LOOP 5 (FIRST PORTION). TALGARTH TO LLANDILO.]
[Map: LOOP 5. TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S AND HAVERFORDWEST.]
The road from Talgarth to Brecon presents no special features except
those of picturesque hill and dale, with various streams crossing the
road at intervals.
BRECON
Brecon, the county town of Brecknockshire, lies upon the River Usk,
and was formerly defended by walls and gates. Of the castle,
destroyed as usual during the Civil War, only a few fragments near
the Castle Hotel have survived, and one restored section facing the
river.
~St. Mary's Church~ has suffered so much from bad restoration that
practically nothing of archæological interest remains in it.
~The Priory Church.~--This building is only excelled in Wales by the
Cathedrals of St. David's and Llandaff. It is a massive cruciform
structure, with a central tower, high roof and gables, and an
external aspect almost devoid of ornamentation. The eastern portions
are of Early English work, and the nave was gradually transformed
during the fourteenth century into a Decorated building, with great
octagonal piers, broad arches, and a lofty clerestory. The carved
Norman font should be noticed, and also a number of effigies, one
dating from 1359. An interesting feature are the chapels on either
side of the presbytery, called respectively the Chapel of the Normans
and the Chapel of the Men of Battle, the priory being a cell of Battle
Abbey. The guilds of the town had chapels in the nave, those of the
tailors, weavers, tuckers, and courvisors, or shoemakers, being at the
west end. The domestic buildings still remain, and are attached to the
southern side of the west end of the nave; the building has been
restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. The town is a pleasant one by reason of
the many public walks in and about it, and fine views may be obtained
of the well-known Beacons, some of them approaching 3,000 feet in
height.
* * * * *
The district round Brecon abounds in prehistoric camps and various
remains of the British, Roman, and Saxon occupations. On the road to
Llandovery, for instance, near Llanspyddyd, there is a Roman fort,
and another of unknown origin adjoining, with a Roman road passing
round them. Senny Bridge merely consists of a long street of
uninteresting houses. At ~Trecastle~ there is an important mound, at one
time crowned with a fortalice. From the centre of this village there
is a steep ascent. The River Usk accompanies the road, and appears
under various surroundings--now as a placid stream winding through
meadowlands, and again as a foaming torrent in a deep, tree-shaded
glen. This road through the outliers of the Beacons abounds in
picturesque views of a well-wooded country, backed by the great
swarthy slopes of the hills, called the Black Mountains, although the
dark brown sandstone of which they are composed is the same colour as
the brown heath upon them.
LLANDOVERY
Llandovery consists chiefly of two streets, which converge at the
market-place, and a welcome change is the red wash with which many of
the houses are covered, as a relief from the ubiquitous whitewash of
the rest of Wales.
~The Castle.~--This has nearly disappeared, and only two dismantled
circular towers, with a curtain wall between, remain. They may be
found standing on a grassy knoll near the Castle Hotel. The River Bran
is fairly wide at this point, and passes under a fine bridge.
Upon leaving Llandovery a level crossing has to be negotiated; the
road crosses the River Towy, and then turns sharply to the left.
~Llanwrda~ is a pretty village situated amid lovely pastoral scenery,
and with a fine prospect over the valley. The road here turns at right
angles towards the north, and between this point and the Hafod Bridge
Inn, nearly four miles, the scenery is distinctly and strikingly
beautiful. The small stream, the Dulais, accompanies the route,
passing and repassing under the road. Near Pumpsaint lies a gold-mine,
the Ogofan, and here the River Cothi, beloved of piscators, comes down
from the mountains on its way to the Towy. Between Pumpsaint and
Lampeter high ground is crossed, and a portion of the Sarn Helen Roman
road appears near an inn beyond Pont-ar-Twch. Near Lampeter a village
occurs bearing the ominous name of Rain.
LAMPETER
is one of the best-known fishing centres in Wales, the River Teifi
affording exceedingly good sport. It is a well-built town, situated
in a fertile valley. The bridge over the stream is said to have been
erected in the time of King Stephen, from which the town claims the
name of Lampeter Pont Stephen. The chief building is St. David's
College, theological, designed for those who cannot afford Oxford or
Cambridge. To gain the road for Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan the river
at Lampeter must be recrossed, and the turning taken to the right at
'Gwar Gate' Inn. The route gives a striking view over the valley of
the Teifi, whose extraordinary meanderings and loopings appear as a
huge serpent of silver lying in the broad landscape. The road for a
considerable distance is of Roman construction--the Sarn Helen, but
even those conquerors of the world could not conquer Nature in Wales
and make their roads straight.
~Llanbyther~ is a small and prettily-situated village, with one of the
numerous 'Pen-y-Gaer' camps lying close to the road. The New Quay Road
Station of Llanfihangel-ar-Arth turns off to the right soon after the
Aber-Iar Inn; it is of a second-class character, but saves a
considerable distance and some hills on the way to Llandyssil.
~Llandyssil~ is a romantically-situated village upon the banks of the
Teifi, which here assume a rocky character. Its church is dedicated to
St. Tyssul, who lived in the early part of the sixth century. From
Llandyssil the road south of the river should be taken to Newcastle
Emlyn; it has many awkward turns.
NEWCASTLE EMLYN
is a well-situated town with a long street running at right angles to
the coach-road.
~The Castle~ is a beautifully-placed ruin, with grand views over the
surrounding country. The position of the fortress for natural defence
is most remarkable, for the Teifi here forms a reversed S, and in one
of the loops so made the ruins are situated, the moat thus naturally
formed being one of the most remarkable in existence. The most ancient
building upon the site is reputed to have had a Roman origin; the
second was erected by Sir Rhys ap Thomas (who built Dynevor Castle) in
the time of Henry VII., who frequently resided here, and from it the
town was termed 'New-castle.' The Royalists held it throughout the
Civil War, but after that period it appears to have lapsed into ruin.
Two octagonal towers supporting an arch give entrance to the ruins.
Three miles out from Newcastle Emlyn is ~Cenarth~, a most picturesque
and pleasantly-situated little village upon the border between
Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire. There is a fine salmon-leap close
to the hamlet which is worth seeing. The road thence to Cardigan
traverses a plain, becoming more and more open as the town is
approached, presenting a broad sweep of smiling woods and pasture.
CARDIGAN
The chief centre of interest in Cardigan is undoubtedly the bridge
over the Teifi. It probably dates from the Early English Period, and
has been widened. From this point there is a good view up and down the
river, with the castle and church as prominent features.
~The Castle.~--The small portion hidden away in the ivy at the present
time affords no clue to the former size and importance of this
stronghold. It was founded in the time of Henry II. by the Prince of
South Wales, and after a chequered career was dismantled at the
Commonwealth. The keep is now occupied by private houses.
~The Church~ (_key obtained at one of the cottages in the road_).--The
tower is a fine one, but so far as the whole interior is concerned it
must be confessed that all ecclesiological features of interest have
been obliterated by paint, plaster, and incongruous additions. The
chancel arch, of the Perpendicular period, has a fearful and wonderful
'skew,' which may or may not have been acquired by age.
The town contains a number of old houses, nooks, and byways, but they
are only moderately interesting to the artist, who finds his best
subjects by the bridge and along the river, where sailing-boats and
small steamers reveal the picturesque qualities generally to be found
in small ports. One feature of the town soon attracts attention--namely,
the strong reluctance of the majority of chimneys in Cardigan to keep
to the perpendicular.
~St. Dogmael's Priory~, less than two miles from Cardigan, lies upon the
left of the estuary. The remains are of the Early English period, and
are still considerable. Martin de Tours, who came over with the
Conqueror (not St. Martin), was the founder.
~Kilgerran Castle~, three miles south of the town, and easily reached by
road, stands upon a vast bare rock uplifted above the foaming, eddying
stream rushing round its base, through a narrow channel in the rocks.
Many eulogistic statements have been made concerning this
beauty-spot, but none have overpraised it. The ruins consist of two
towers, with part of a gateway and curtain wall, together with
fragments of massive bastions. It was erected about 1223, when
Marshall, Earl of Chepstow, subdued the Welsh in these districts.
* * * * *
~On leaving for Newport~, the long rise of the road affords, in about
two miles, a remarkably fine view towards the left. With Mynydd
Prescelly for a background, the composition of the foreground and
middle distance by a beautiful vale is singularly impressive, and this
view, with panoramic changes, accompanies the road to Nevern.
The hills seen in the front have massive rocky crags penetrating their
otherwise smooth outline.
~Nevern.~--A very dangerous turn in the road ushers the traveller into
this beautiful little village, embowered in the midst of rich meadows,
orchards, and gardens in a situation which is eminently picturesque
and pleasing. The River Nevern flows through the village, and an
amphitheatre of well-wooded hills encloses it.
~The Castle~ consists of some slight remains of a Norman building,
apparently of a square plan, with bastions at the angles.
~The Church~ is one of the largest in the county, and of very great
interest. It is of Early English architecture, with a Perpendicular
recess forming a chapel upon the south side. In the window-sill of the
south window of this chapel is inserted a long granite stone, with an
Ogham inscription upon it, together with a slab bearing an excellent
example of an early interlaced cross. The church stands in a quite
ideal sloping churchyard, containing a stone cross about 13 feet in
height, with Celtic ornamentation and two inscriptions, not yet
satisfactorily deciphered, as far as the writer is aware. Near the
south porch is a menhir with an inscription.
~The Pentre Evan~ cromlech, one of the finest known, lies about three
miles from Nevern by road, but less than two as the crow flies. A car
may be taken by a third-class road for the greater part of the
distance, but a local guide is necessary.
NEWPORT
Newport is a small fishing town, and also a seaport, upon the estuary
of the Nevern. It is a quiet watering-place, the sea-bathing being
very good, while the surrounding country is of enticing interest.
~The Castle~ was built in 1215, and used by the lords of Cemmaes for
their courts. It was destroyed by Llewelyn, but restored recently by a
descendant of the first baron, but in such strong contrast to the
original Norman architecture that it is very disappointing externally.
~The Church~ has been built near the castle, and partakes somewhat of
its character, being stern and massive in its proportions. The
interior contains nothing of particular interest.
A small cromlech lies within a few hundred yards of the centre of the
town, to which any inhabitant will direct one. Occasional glimpses of
the estuary, with its sands gleaming in the sun, are obtained from the
main streets of the town.
The road between Newport and Fishguard reveals a wide view of the
Prescelly Mountains, the highest in Pembrokeshire, and a favourite
climb for visitors. A most attractive view of Goodwick Harbour, now
generally known as Fishguard, is obtained from the road, or, better
still, from one of the steep meadows on either hand. The great
importance of this harbour in connection with the Atlantic mail and
passenger service has suddenly brought a remote district into
prominence. It is now a familiar sight for the natives to see a huge
liner in this natural harbour take on passengers and cargo, while a
few years ago the waters of the deep inlet had never been churned by
propellers.
The descent into Fishguard of 1 in 7 must be taken with extreme
caution; at the foot of the curving descent a bridge crosses the Afon
Gwaen, and from this the road climbs with equal suddenness and at an
equally trying angle. It is a hill calculated to test to the last
fraction of its horsepower the capacity a car possesses in
hill-climbing. At the top of the ascent the whole bay is spread out in
panoramic fashion, and one can see the new breakwater, still
incomplete, protecting the anchorage.
The road from Fishguard to St. David's passes first across the isthmus
of the Pen Caer Peninsula, whose northern part terminates in Strumble
Head. This district is the happy hunting-ground for the archæologist,
as it literally teems with prehistoric remains--castles, camps, stone
circles, cromlechs, and menhirs, are encountered almost at every step.
Two miles out of Fishguard the turning to the right should be taken at
a puzzling junction of roads. At Mathry some cromlechs occur near the
road, and two miles farther on a wayside cross may be seen. The hills
in this neighbourhood generally have the formation noticed previously
at Cardigan--namely the projection of high tors from their summits,
breaking through otherwise smooth elevations. Nearing St. David's Head
it is obvious that the face of the landscape is gradually changing:
the hedgerows become less in height, and are often mere mounds of turf
or stone; the few trees met with are dwarfed and attenuated, and
invariably lean away from the south-west. As St. David's comes nearer
these characteristics become accentuated, and a barren, wind-swept
moorland appears, almost unrelieved by a single tree.
[Map: PLAN OF ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL.]
ST. DAVID'S
The modern town of St. David's has a sad and desolate air, arising
from the number of abandoned houses to be seen on every hand.
~The Cathedral~ (_nave open free on weekdays, 9 to 1 and 2 to 6; a
charge of 6d. is made for admission to the eastern chapels_) is in a
remarkable situation at the farther end of the town, and practically
bursts upon the view when the edge of the deep hollow it occupies is
reached. In such an exposed corner of Britain it is not surprising
that everything should take what shelter it can find, but to walk
through a rather dreary and wind-swept Welsh village, and to
_discover_ a magnificent cathedral cowering almost out of sight at
one's very feet, is not an everyday occurrence even with the touring
motorist. A score of abbeys planted in sequestered valleys will come
to the mind of anyone who has explored this island, but a
well-preserved cathedral built in a deep and narrow hollow in a rocky
promontory almost takes away what little breath the blustering wind
has left to the exploring stranger. To the left is the old tower
gateway, a weather-worn remnant of the embattled fortifications which
once encircled the monastery. Down below, and approached by a long and
steep flight of stone steps, stands the church, with the square tower
of rather unsatisfactory outline dominating the nave, transept, and
eastern portions of the buildings. Beyond appears one of the most
beautiful ruins that ever gladdened the eye--the remains of one of the
finest episcopal palaces to be seen in the British Isles. Near the
church are also grouped ruins of the conventual buildings, and the
whole forms a scene that indelibly impresses itself upon the memory.
Descending the thirty-nine steps, one reaches the south porch of the
nave. Whatever preconceived ideas one may hold of the beauty of this
part of the church, the sight of the original far surpasses them. The
beautiful Norman pillars and graceful arches, ornamented with the most
elaborate chevron and zigzag mouldings of the Transitional period; the
clerestory springing directly from the dwarfed triforium with which it
is incorporated; and the whole surmounted by a finely-wrought timber
roof, make a picture of the rarest perfection. The colouring is full
of subtle richness, the stonework being of a soft dove-grey combined
with a bluish tinge. The building dates from 1180, the previous church
having been burnt down by pirates. The tower fell in 1220, and was
rebuilt at different periods. The choir and transepts are Early
English, but were added to in the Decorated period. The eastern
chapels are Decorated, as is also the beautiful rood-screen. The
ceiling in the nave dates from _c._ 1500. Many objects of interest are
contained in the building; the shrines of St. David and St. Caradoc,
the tomb of Edmund Tudor, father of Henry VII., the monument of Bishop
Gower, the chapel of St. Thomas à Becket, and the fan tracery of the
roof in Bishop Vaughan's Chapel, are all worthy of careful inspection.
Outside the north wall of the nave gigantic and ill-proportioned
buttresses are seen, built in 1248 to strengthen the nave, which had
suffered from an earthquake; on the opposite side are the remains of
the cloisters of St. Mary's College, begun in 1362.
The exploration of the ruins of the Bishop's Palace should on no
account be omitted, as the lower chambers, the row of clerestory
arches, the beautiful doorways, and the general composition of the
whole ruin, are worthy of the closest attention.
Upon the return to the main street the ancient cross is seen, no less
than 28 feet in height; the steps were restored by Bishop Thirlwall in
1873.
The coast scenery at St. David's is remarkably wild, and the subjects
for the painter in oils or water-colours, or for the less ambitious
who carry a sketch-book and a good soft pencil, are full of particular
attractiveness. To those who are without the desire or capacity to
carry away any permanent impressions of the scenery it will be enough
to lie in a sheltered spot and watch the white waves burst into
columns of spray on the northern end of Ramsey Island.
LOOP No. 5--SECOND PORTION
ST. DAVIDS TO HEREFORD, 132¼ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=St. David's= to Haverfordwest 15¾
=Haverfordwest= to Narberth 10¼
=Narberth= to Red Roses 7
=Red Roses= to Carmarthen 14¾
=Carmarthen= to Pontacothi 6¼
=Pontacothi= to Llandilo 8¾
=Llandilo= to Llangadock 6¾
=Llangadock= to Llandovery 5½
=Llandovery= to Trecastle 9
=Trecastle= to Devynock 3¼
=Devynock= to Brecon 8¾
=Brecon= to Talgarth (Bronllys) 8¼
=Bronllys= to Three Cocks Inn 2½
=Three Cocks Inn= to Hay 4¾
=Hay= to Clifford 2½
=Clifford= to Hereford 18¼
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=St. David's to Haverfordwest.=--This road has a fine surface, but
hills are frequent and all dangerous. They range from 1 in 8 to 1 in
12.
=Haverfordwest to Carmarthen.=--This also has a good surface, but the
hills are numerous. Near Narberth is a hill 1 in 9.
=Carmarthen to Brecon.=--Splendid surface and easy gradients.
=Brecon to Hereford.=--An excellent road without dangerous hills.
=Hay.=--A toll of 9d. must be paid for crossing the river.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Solva.=--A village in pretty scenery.
=Pointz Castle.=--An earthwork.
=Roche Castle.=--Very conspicuous.
=Haverfordwest.=--A pleasant town; the castle, now a gaol; St. Mary's
Church, with ancient wooden carving; the Priory Ruins.
=Narberth.=--A little town with ruins of its castle.
=St. Clears.=--A small port.
=Carmarthen.=--A busy county town; the castle, now the gaol; the
Guildhall; the church; Picton Monument; interesting market.
=Llandilo.=--Small town on high ground; Dynevor Castle; Careg Cennen
Castle.
=Llandilo to Talgarth.=--See Loop 6, Part I.
=Hay.=--A little town on English border; the castle, an interesting
structure (not open).
=Clifford Castle=, birthplace of Fair Rosamond.
=Whitney.=--Beautiful scenery on the Wye; old timbered houses.
=Hereford.=--The cathedral, Norman to Perpendicular; the Shire Hall;
the castle green; interesting old houses.
[Map: LOOP 5 (EASTERN END). TALGARTH TO HEREFORD.]
The distance from St. David's to Haverfordwest is sixteen miles, or,
as the natives naïvely express it, 'sixteen miles and seventeen
hills.' For the switchback contour, however, one is compensated by
the wide views generally obtained when the tops of the hills are
reached, before plunging downwards into the next sudden hollow. The
same characteristics of wild moorland and storm-swept down prevail as
noticed upon the road to St. David's, and it is very interesting to
note how gradually the vegetation develops as the route progresses.
About two miles out the little village of ~Solva~ is passed, lying upon
a romantic inlet in this iron-bound coast, and recalling, to some
extent, the fishing village of Staithes, in Yorkshire. The view over
St. Bride's Bay, with Skomer Island as the farthest point, is
exceedingly fine on a crisp, sunny morning, and shortly after leaving
Solva, Pointz Castle, an earthwork, appears upon the right hand, at a
short distance from the road. The sharp descent to ~Newgate~ brings one
almost within reach of the salt spray at high tide, and the road runs
for a few hundred yards by the sands of that name, giving a glimpse of
some fine coast scenery. There is an example here of a 'rolling
beach,' an accumulation of pebbles being washed over and over upon the
flat land beyond. The road now climbs to the uplands, upon which
stands ~Roche Castle~, a conspicuous landmark for many miles. It was
built in the reign of Henry III., but has later windows inserted.
Garrisoned for the King during the time of the Civil War, it was
captured by the Parliamentarians, but subsequently retaken. Lord St.
Davids, the present owner, has adapted it for modern habitation. Its
position upon a rocky scar, in the midst of a treeless plain, is
peculiarly imposing.
As the road approaches Haverfordwest trees of respectable proportions
begin to appear, no longer leaning towards the north-east.
HAVERFORDWEST
The town of Haverfordwest occupies an important position among those
of South Wales, and is the centre of commerce for a large district.
The streets are narrow and steep, with sharp turnings, probably caused
by the confinement of the ancient fortifications which once protected
the town. Of these practically nothing remains but the shell of a
strong castle, now converted into the county gaol, standing upon a
rocky eminence overlooking the town. Although very impressive when
viewed from a distance or from the River Cleddau in the town, it
hardly repays minute inspection. Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Pembroke,
is said to have built it about 1120, and it became, with that of
Pembroke, one of the most important fortresses in 'Little England,' as
the southern part of Pembroke was termed. It was demolished by order
of Oliver Cromwell.
~St. Mary's Church~ is of great interest, the exterior showing some
fantastic gargoyles, and the nave some fine clustered columns of Early
English work, with a Perpendicular clerestory above. The ceilings
should be noticed, and also the early lancets at the west end. It is a
beautiful church, full of light, with no gloomy corners. There is an
ancient wooden carving of St. Michael the Archangel and the Dragon,
dating from the fifteenth century.
~The Priory Ruins~ are situated a short distance from the southern part
of the town, and are quite picturesque. They are the remains of a
priory of Austin Canons erected in the twelfth century. The very
liberal grants of Robert de Hwlffordd, lord of this town, were
confirmed by Edward III. The remains of the minster are of Early
English work.
The road from Haverfordwest takes a sharp turn to the right upon
leaving the town, and passes over the railway-lines. An isolated
church stands upon a hill to the right, and soon afterwards the woods
surrounding ~Picton Castle~, two miles away, come into view. It is one
of the most ancient residences in the kingdom, having been built by a
De Picton in the reign of Rufus. From that time it has been inhabited
by an unbroken line of proprietors, never deserted, never vacant. The
alterations have not very much affected the baronial style of the
building, and until quite recently it presented the appearance of a
medieval fortress.
At Canaston Bridge the road crosses the eastern Cleddau, which
discharges into Milford Haven, and here, upon the left, at about a
mile, lies the picturesque ruin of ~Llawhaden Castle~, once a residence
of the Bishops of St. David's. The gateway, flanked by two
demi-bastions, forms a very effective picture.
Approaching Narberth, the right-hand road should be taken at Robeston
Wathen. Fir-trees near this point begin to make their appearance,
having been conspicuously absent from St. David's to this point.
NARBERTH
There is a very steep hill in this town, leading to the ruins of a
Norman castle crowning the summit. They are picturesquely covered with
ivy, but the remains now apparent are small when compared with those
visible in the eighteenth century. The roads in the neighbourhood of
Narberth are rather misleading, as so many by-roads enter. Care should
be taken to decipher the sign-boards in many cases before proceeding.
Between Narberth and St. Clears, for instance, there are three roads
at Tavernspite near an inn, and the centre one should be taken.
~St. Clears~ is a long and straggling village at the head of an estuary
of the Taff, and vessels of small tonnage can reach it at high tide.
It formerly possessed a castle and a priory, but both have
disappeared. The town itself is uninteresting. Between St. Clears and
Carmarthen the small hamlet of Banc-y-Felin is particularly pleasing,
with a tributary of the Taff flowing through it.
CARMARTHEN
Carmarthen, the capital of the shire, stands upon the site of the
Roman _Maridunum_, and is the point of convergence of two roads, Via
Maritima and Via Montana. Some parts of the town stand at a
considerable elevation, and present an imposing picture from a
distance. It is an excellent example of an old Welsh town, retaining a
great deal of its primeval quaintness. Upon market-days, when it
swarms with people from the surrounding districts, one seldom hears a
word of English spoken, and the busy scenes witnessed in the bustling
market are mainly transacted in the mother-tongue. Upon entering the
town the Picton Monument is seen, raised in honour of the Peninsula
hero, who fell at Waterloo.
~The Church of St. Peter~ is a large building chiefly in the
Perpendicular style, with a lofty square tower. The interior has been
very carefully plastered so as to hide everything of interest. A Roman
altar, however, may be seen below the tower.
Sir Richard Steele, who died in 1729, the friend of Addison, and the
well-known man of letters, lies buried in this church. In his old age
he came to reside at Llangunnor, near Carmarthen.
~The Castle~, which at one time made Carmarthen a place of strength, was
demolished by the Parliamentarians, and the small portion remaining
has been converted into the county gaol. On leaving Carmarthen the
route towards Llandilo lies upon the Roman road, the Via Montana. It
includes some of the finest scenery in South Wales. There are two
roads running in the valley, with the railway separating them; the
north one is the more picturesque.
At a loop in the road about ten miles out, Middleton Hall, lying due
south, and erected by Sir William Paxton, may be recognized by the
tall tower which forms such a conspicuous landmark. It is known as
~Paxton's Tower~, but was raised by him in memory of Nelson. Almost
directly afterwards, ~Dryslwyn Castle~ comes in sight, a most
picturesque ruin, consisting of one tower and many fragments of walls.
It was besieged in the time of Edward I., when Lord Stafford and other
leaders lost their lives, in undermining the fortress, by the sudden
collapse of the walls beneath which they were operating.
On Grongar Hill, a few hundred yards away to the right, the poet Dyer
composed his poem 'Grongar Hill.' The view from the summit is
charming. On the farther side of the valley can be seen Golden Grove,
the residence of Viscount Emlyn. ~Dynevor Park and Castle~ come into
view upon the right front on reaching the neighbourhood of Llandilo.
The ruins stand upon a lofty mound a short distance from the road, in
the most attractive portion of the park. The first castle was built in
877, and almost rebuilt in the time of William the Conqueror. For
some centuries it was the residence of the Princes of South Wales.
Henry VII. granted it to Sir Rhys ap Thomas, a descendant of the
Princes, and ancestor of the present owner, Lord Dynevor. It was
occupied until 1760. The remains consist of a round keep and a square
tower, commanding a magnificent prospect. (_The ruins are open for
inspection to the bona-fide visitor upon application._)
LLANDILO
Llandilo is a small town perched upon two or three steep hills to the
north of the River Towy, crossed here by a stone bridge of one span.
The streets are narrow, with the public buildings grouped together in
the centre of the town. The church was thoroughly rebuilt in 1848, and
everything of interest then disappeared. If a stay can be arranged at
Llandilo, one of the most remarkable edifices in the kingdom, ~Careg
Cennen~, should be seen. It is a castle almost without a history,
standing upon a rocky height with inaccessible precipices on three
sides, the foremost one over 300 feet in height. Two square towers
guard the sloping ground upon the fourth side, and the main portion of
the castle occupies the summits of the precipices. The situation is
superb and the scenery delightful. The spirit of romance is free from
any of the handicaps usually suffered by the historian, for in this
castle among the clouds, in connection with which history is silent
(except a reputed origin in the thirteenth century at the hands of
Rhys of Wales), the wings of imagination may soar to any height. This
is a site awaiting the novelist in search of a romantic setting for a
story of the Middle Ages. It stands about five miles to the south-east
of Llandilo, overlooking the Vale of the Towy.
Between Llandilo and Llanwrda a large Roman camp can be seen lying
upon Carn Goch, and at the inn where the road turns to Llangadock a
large tributary joins the Towy. In a few miles Llanwrda is reached,
and the loop for St. David's is thus completed. For the road between
Llanwrda and Talgarth, see pp. 143-148.
The route from Talgarth to Hay is winding, and care should be taken to
avoid the numerous roads leading away from the main road, which lies
on the south side of the River Wye, and for a considerable distance is
parallel to the railway.
~Glasbury~, beyond the Three Cocks, is a small village much frequented
by the fishing fraternity; a fine prospect of the Black Mountains is
obtained, and the views generally are among the best to be found in
the district.
The entry into Hay is very pretty, with shady hedgerows and many of
the attributes of English scenery.
HAY
This little town lies upon the borders of England and Wales, at the
junction of the shires of Radnor, Hereford, and Brecon. The word 'Hay'
is allied to 'hedge,' meaning a boundary. It was at one time the main
entry into Wales from England, and naturally, from its position, it
has seen stirring times in the past.
~The Castle~ dominates the town, and is easily reached from the main
street; the entrance is at the back. The architecture now appears to
be a mixture of all kinds, including Tudor, for numerous additions
have been made. A residence constructed out of the old materials
occupies part of the site. Sir Philip Walwyn is supposed to have built
the first castle in 1090, and at the end of the twelfth century
extensive additions were made. Henry III. almost rebuilt it, and in
1233 Llewelyn ap Jorweth stormed it. Thirty years later it was taken
twice, and in the time of Glendower it was burnt. Many other minor
happenings have occurred to lend variety to its existence. James I.
made large additions to the building. The fortifying walls once
enclosing the town have nearly disappeared. The road upon the town
side traverses the former moat. A view across the river gives a
glimpse of a Roman camp near the stream, while to the north-west
stands Clyro, reached by a main road, and enclosed by beautiful woods.
A mound of earth and a moat are now the sole remains of the proud and
lordly Clyro Castle mentioned by Leland.
The ruins of Cusop Castle and Mouse Castle lie at a short distance
from the town, and a favourite excursion is that to the far-famed
~Llanthony~ ~Abbey~, lying amid romantic wilds some ten miles to the
south.
The route to Whitney crosses the river at Hay, passes through Clyro,
and in two miles affords a view of ~Clifford Castle~, standing upon a
bold eminence by the side of the river; it was the birthplace of Jane
de Clifford, the Fair Rosamond of Henry II., and the former residence
of the Lords de Clifford. The scenery in the environment of these
beautiful ruins is most charming. The route from Hay may be taken in
this direction if desired. (_A toll of 9d. has to be paid to cross the
river._)
WHITNEY
The village of Whitney is surrounded by a rich belt of pasture-land
interspersed with clumps of trees, and exceedingly beautiful scenery
is to be found upon the river-banks. There is no ancient church, for
it was washed away in a flood in the early part of the eighteenth
century. The beautiful views seen at Whitney unfold themselves more
and more as one reaches Letton, Merbach Hill upon the right, rising
high out of the ground like a hog's back, giving a characteristic
touch to the scenery. At Letton a particularly beautiful group of
black-and-white timbered cottages stand by the side of the road, and
remind one that English soil has been reached, and that the
never-ending monotony of the Welsh whitewashed cottages has at last
been left behind. At ~Staunton~, on the Wye, a little Early English
church is perched above the village. On the right there formerly stood
a castle, and near it is Moccas Park, the residence of Royalty in
Saxon times. The present owners are descended from Richard, the second
son of King John. After passing Byford a portion of ~Offa's Dyke~ occurs
upon the left, crossing over Mansell Hill. Some quaintly-cut yew-trees
may be seen near the Kite's Nest Inn, and just before entering
Hereford, at White Cross, an interesting cross is noticeable. It was
put up in 1347 by Bishop Charlton to commemorate the disappearance of
the Black Plague, and was restored by Archdeacon Lord Saye and Sele.
[Illustration: HEREFORD CATHEDRAL FROM THE BANKS OF THE WYE.
It belongs mainly to the Early English period, and is built of a
reddish stone.]
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 7--HEREFORD.]
HEREFORD
is a pleasantly-situated town, but if it were not for the possession
of a cathedral the place would not offer any particular attractions
for visitors beyond the charming river scenery common to the Wye
Valley.
Hereford became a separate see in 673, and Putta was the first
Bishop. The first church was rebuilt in a better fashion when the
remains of the murdered Ethelbert were brought to Hereford, but this
pre-Norman structure was burnt by the Welsh in 1055. In 1079 Robert of
Lorraine, the first Norman Bishop, began the cathedral of which much
exists at the present day, using dark red sandstone. The choir up to
the clerestory, the arcades of the nave, and the south transept, are
Norman work of this early date.
The beautiful Lady Chapel, and the clerestory of the choir are Early
English. The north and both the eastern transepts, part of tower, and
the chapter-house, are Decorated. The chantries, sacristy, and a few
other parts, are Perpendicular. The western tower fell in 1786, and
brought down with it the west front and the first bay of the nave.
This disaster accounts for the modern west front. Upon entering the
nave the Norman bays are singularly impressive, especially the carved
capitals. The choir is entered through a metal chancel screen; the
stalls are richly carved, and 'the chair of King Stephen' is preserved
in it. Scattered about in the great building there are probably more
monumental tombs and effigies than in any other cathedral, and this is
especially true with regard to ecclesiastics. Two notable monuments
are those of Bishop Aquablanca (1245-1268), and the shrine of St.
Thomas of Cantilupe in the north transept. A famous archæological
treasure, the _Mappa Mundi_, a map of the world, drawn on one large
sheet of parchment in the thirteenth century by Richard de
Haldingham, is preserved in this building, and may be seen upon
application. The Bishop's Palace is close to the Wye, on the south
side of the cathedral.
~The Shire Hall~, a Grecian Doric building, standing in St. Peter's
Square, was erected in the early part of the last century.
~The Castle Green~ is the site of the vanished Castle of Hereford; it is
one of the prettiest parts of the town. Hereford contains some
interesting houses, and three of them, now used as a bank, may be seen
in the High Town. It was at one time the Butchers' Guildhall, and the
carving upon the outside, as well as the inside, is extremely ornate.
SECTION VIII (TRUNK ROUTE)
LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY, 68 MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Llangurig= to Rhayader 9¼
=Rhayader= to Newbridge-on-Wye 8
=Newbridge-on-Wye= to Builth 5½
=Builth= to Hay 19
=Hay= to Bronllys 7¼
=Bronllys= to Talgarth 1
=Talgarth= to Castle Inn 3½
=Castle Inn= to Crickhowell 8¼
=Crickhowell= to Abergavenny 6¼
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
The road is splendidly engineered, and as a rule has an excellent
surface. There are no really stiff gradients.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Rhayader.=--A small and uninteresting town; Birmingham reservoirs.
=Builth.=--Another small town, possessing no interest besides the site
of the castle and the wells.
=Talgarth= (1 mile distant).--Remains of Bronllys Castle; Llangorse
Pool.
=Crickhowell.=--The church; the castle ruins.
=Abergavenny.=--A market town; castle, now a recreation-ground;
church, with fine carved oak; earliest wooden effigy; the Blorenge.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 8. LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY.]
The road to Rhayader traverses part of the Upper Wye Valley, and gives
frequent glimpses of troubled, foam-flecked water, alternating with
long reaches where the river slides smoothly along its rocky bed. The
setting is one of pastoral scenery, bounded by the rounded uplands,
which help to form the catchment basin for the great lakes which now
supply Birmingham with water. This gigantic undertaking, to be
extended altogether over fifty years, will eventually be the means of
constructing a chain of lakes in the vale of the Elan, effectually
providing for the future needs of the great manufacturing metropolis
so far as water is concerned.
RHAYADER
The chief attraction at Rhayader is the scenery, as nothing of
particular importance meets the eye in the town. It is a good
sketching-ground for artists, many excellent subjects being
discoverable in the surrounding country. To the angler it is a
paradise. Although it possesses two churches, they are not worthy of
the time required for inspecting them. The ~Wye~ here is an impetuous
mountain stream, plunging amid the rocks strewn along its course; to
this point the salmon reach the upper waters at the spawning season.
Between Rhayader and Builth there are several very sharp turnings in
the road, requiring considerable care if risks are to be avoided. The
~Wye~ is close to the road at many parts of its course, and forms the
boundary between the counties of Brecon and Radnor. Farther on the
stream begins to lose its torrential character, and, traversing this
well-wooded valley, assumes more of the calm and placid character with
which one generally associates it. It receives the superfluous water
from the great lakes of the Birmingham Corporation Reservoirs by the
Afon Elan soon after passing Rhayader. To the west of Newbridge-on-Wye,
Lysdinam Hall, the ancestral home of the Venables, is seen upon an
eminence.
BUILTH WELLS
This ancient town, the _Bullæum_ of the Romans, is the centre of trade
for the neighbouring districts, and derives much importance from its
wells--saline, sulphurous, and chalybeate. The population is less
than 2,000, but probably a regiment might be raised locally all
bearing the surname of Price or Powell.
~The Castle~, or rather the site of it, is near the town, close to the
Wye Bridge. It possesses a double fosse, a rampart of earth, and a
keep, which, judging from the foundation, must have been of great
size. It was besieged and captured by Llewelyn in 1260.
The scene of Llewelyn's death in 1282 lies near the Radnor road at
Cefn-y-Bedd, a few miles from the town. The Prince was refused a
refuge in Builth (hence 'The Traitors of Builth'), and, reversing his
horse's shoes, fled in the deep snow for safety, but was overtaken and
slain.
The church of Builth is a modern erection, and the town is
uninteresting.
The road from Builth to Talgarth passes through Erwood, at some five
miles' distance, and Garth Hill, crowned by an earthwork, lies to the
left; it is also the place where the English troops in quest of
Llewelyn forded the river in 1282. Two miles away to the left are the
celebrated Falls of Craig-pwl-du, a fall of 40 feet into a weird
ravine. The neighbourhood is full of interest to the antiquary and the
geologist. About three miles beyond Erwood the castle and woods of
Llangoed are passed, and Boughroo
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