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At home with the Patagonians

by George C. Musters · English · Gutenberg #42483 · 825,542 chars · public domain (US)

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Title: At home with the Patagonians
        a year's wanderings over untrodden ground from the Straits of Magellan to the Rio Negro

Author: George C. Musters


        
Release date: April 8, 2013 [eBook #42483]
                Most recently updated: October 23, 2024

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/42483

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        Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net.


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS ***

  [Transcriber's Note: In this text the two occurrences of the letter n
  with a macron above it are represented by ṅ. The one occurrence of the
  letter ā with an acute accent above it is represented by ´ā. Some
  illustrations have been relocated to fall between paragraphs rather
  than within.]




THE PATAGONIANS


LONDON: PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
AND PARLIAMENT STREET


[Illustration: WÁKI KILLING A PUMA.]




                          AT HOME

                           WITH

                      THE PATAGONIANS


          A YEAR'S WANDERINGS OVER UNTRODDEN GROUND
                FROM THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN
                      TO THE RIO NEGRO


                 By GEORGE CHAWORTH MUSTERS

                    RETIRED COMMANDER R.N.


                 _WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS_




                           LONDON
                JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
                            1871


            _The right of translation is reserved_




                        TO MY FRIEND

                        F. W. EGERTON,

                         ROYAL NAVY,

                THIS NARRATIVE IS DEDICATED.




PREFACE.


In submitting the following pages to the public, I am conscious that
some readers who desire exact and scientific descriptions of the
geography and geology of Patagonia will be disappointed; but it must be
urged as an apology that instruments could not be carried nor safely
used under the circumstances. The course travelled was as carefully laid
down, by the help of a compass, as was possible; and the map of the
country is so far accurate, and, if incomplete, at least is not
imaginative. To others who may perhaps eagerly expect tales of stirring
adventure and hair-breadth escapes, such as are usually recounted as the
every-day occurrences of uncivilised life, I can only express the hope
that this faithful record of life with the Indians all the year round,
if not very sensational, will serve at least to make them really at home
with the Tehuelches. It is a pleasanter task to record my thanks to
those by whose assistance the results of my journey have been utilised;
foremost of whom is the venerable ex-President of the Royal Geographical
Society, Sir RODERICK MURCHISON, whose kindly reception and introduction
of the returned traveller to the Society are gratefully acknowledged.
My obligations are scarcely less to CLEMENTS MARKHAM, C.B., whose
unrivalled knowledge of the early history as well as the geography of
South America has been freely placed at my disposal; and to Dr. HOOKER,
Director of the Royal Gardens, Kew, for his courteous assistance in
identifying some of the plants observed: while to Mr. RUDLER, of the
Museum of Mines, I am indebted for a careful classification of the
various specimens of rocks and minerals collected in the country.
Lastly, the reader will share in my gratitude to Mr. ZWECKER, whose able
pencil has created, out of rough outlines sketched in a pocket-book, the
vivid and faithful illustrations which bring before his eyes the scenery
and incidents of life in Patagonia.

                                                            G. C. M.
  _September 1, 1871._




CONTENTS.


CHAPTER I.

FROM THE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ.
                                                                    PAGE
  Journey Planned. -- Preparations. -- Passage from Stanley. -- The
    Straits. -- First Footsteps in Patagonia. -- The Narrows. --
    Punta Arenas. -- Commandante Viel. -- The Colony. -- The Town.
    -- Chilotes and Convicts. -- Resources. -- Visit to the Coal
    Bed. -- Lieut. Gallegos. -- The Start. -- Rio Chaunco. -- The
    Patagonian Pampas. -- Our Party. -- Cabecera del Mar. -- Oazy
    Harbour. -- A useless Chase. -- A Fireless Night. -- Volcanic
    Hills. -- Pampa Yarns. -- Rio Gallegos. -- First Indians. --
    Sam Slick. -- Rio Cuheyli. -- Meeting with Tehuelches. --
    Caravan of Women. -- 'Anglish' Politeness. -- Desert. -- Santa
    Cruz at last                                                       1


CHAPTER II.

SANTA CRUZ.

  Introduction to Chiefs. -- Orkeke. -- Chilian Deserters. -- The
    Settlement. -- Island of Pabon. -- Natural Advantages. -- The
    Mission Station. -- Mr. Clarke. -- Our Circle at Pabon. --
    Expedition to Lake Viedma. -- Winter Occupations. -- Work and
    Play. -- Casimiro's Adventures. -- His Character. -- A Winter
    Hunting Excursion. -- A Pampa Snow-storm. -- The Santa Cruz
    Valley. -- Up the River. -- The Northern Hills. -- Pumas. --
    Devil's Eyes. -- Hunting on Foot. -- Intense Cold. -- Return of
    the Deserters. -- Visit to the Indian Camp. -- First Night in a
    Toldo. -- Towing a Horse. -- Adieu to Santa Cruz                  33


CHAPTER III.

THE RIO CHICO.

  Breaking up of the Camp. -- An Idle Day. -- A Rash Start. -- A
    Dilemma. -- Alone on the Pampa. -- Reunion. -- The Kau or
    Toldo. -- The Domestic Interior. -- The Indian Tribes. -- Three
    Races. -- Order of the March. -- The Hunt. -- Indian Game Law.
    -- Tehuelche Cookery. -- Basaltic Hills. -- An Indian Festival.
    -- My First Tehuelche Ball. -- Mrs. Orkeke's Spill. -- Fording
    Rio Chico. -- A Battle. -- Death of Cuastro. -- Dangerous
    Times. -- Chilian Conspiracy. -- Obsidian Plain and Pass. --
    First Ostrich Eggs. -- Amakaken. -- Lifting the Boulder. -- The
    Devil's Country. -- God's Hill. -- Condors and Dinner. --
    Sunrise on the Cordillera. -- The Plague Herald. -- Gelgel Aik.
    -- Escape from Matrimony. -- Téle. -- Eyes of the Desert. --
    Preparations for War. -- Another Fight. -- Water Tigers. --
    Indian Bravoes. -- Iron Ores. -- Ship Rock. -- Perch Fishing.
    -- Appley-kaik. -- Casimiro's Escape. -- Arrival at Henno         62


CHAPTER IV.

HENNOKAIK TO TECKEL.

  Ceremonial of Welcome. -- Hinchel's Indians. -- Tehuelches
    and Araucanos. -- Jackechan and the Chupat Tribe. -- My
    Examination. -- Encampment at Henno. -- Peaceful Occupations.
    -- The Oldest Inhabitant. -- Chiriq. -- The Hidden Cities. --
    Modern Legends. -- Mysteries of the Cordillera. -- Los Cesares.
    -- La Ciudad Encantada. -- Its Whereabouts. -- The Indian
    Cesares. -- The Guanaco. -- The Patagonian Ostrich. --
    Neighbourhood of Chiriq. -- Horseracing. -- Indian Horses. --
    Indian Dogs. -- Dog and Lover. -- Plaiting Sinews. -- Windy
    Hill. -- Surrounded by Fire. -- Young Guanaco. -- Arrival of
    Grog. -- News from Santa Cruz. -- Gisk. -- Romantic Scenery. --
    A Pleasant Neighbourhood. -- Fairy Glen. -- Breaking a Horse.
    -- Female Curiosity. -- The Wild Cattle Country. -- The Forests
    of the Cordillera. -- The Watershed. -- Among the Mountains. --
    Wild Flowers. -- A Bull Fight. -- The Bull Victorious. -- No
    Christmas Beef. -- Teckel. -- Change of Quarters                 108


CHAPTER V.

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TEHUELCHES.

  Patagonian Giants. -- A Long Walk. -- Strength and Good Humour.
    -- Heads of Hair. -- Tehuelche Coquettes. -- Dress of Men and
    Women. -- Ornaments and Cosmetics. -- Toilette and Bath. --
    Arms and Implements. -- Ancient Bolas and Arrows. -- Saddles
    and Bridles. -- Silversmiths. -- Manufacture of Mantles. --
    Women's Work. -- Diet and Cookery. -- Smoking. -- Card Playing.
    -- Game of Ball. -- Ceremonies at Birth. -- Childhood. --
    Marriage. -- Funeral Rites. -- Religion. -- Demons and Doctors.
    -- Witchcraft and Omens. -- Medical Skill. -- Population and
    Politics. -- Etiquette. -- Tehuelche Character. -- Natural
    Affection. -- Advice to Travellers                               157


CHAPTER VI.

TECKEL TO GEYLUM.

  Casimiro's Household. -- Carge-kaik. -- Quintuhual's Son. --
    Woolkein. -- Partridges. -- Meeting with the Araucanians. --
    The Cacique Quintuhual. -- Esgel-kaik. -- Araucanian Belles. --
    Communication with Chupat Colony. -- Diplaik. -- Calficura's
    Declaration of War. -- Tehuelches learn Fishing. -- My Indian
    Relatives. -- Woodland Rambles. -- An Indian Paradise. -- The
    Upper Chupat. -- Cushamon. -- Losing Horses. -- Official
    Functions. -- Message from Las Manzanas. -- Blessing the
    Liquor. -- Casimiro Intoxicated. -- Foyel's Encampment. --
    Great Parlemento. -- Foyel's Ideas. -- Gatchen-kaik. -- Arrival
    at Geylum                                                        189


CHAPTER VII.

LAS MANZANAS.

  Catching a Thief. -- Miss Foyel. -- Start for Las Manzanas. --
    First View of the Apple Groves. -- Omens of War. -- Inacayal's
    Tolderia. -- Crossing the Rio Limay. -- Mr. Cox's Shipwreck. --
    Lenketrou's Raid. -- A Night of Alarm. -- Bravery of my
    Cousins. -- The Great Cheoeque. -- A Mounted Parlemento. --
    Apples and Piñones. -- Graviel's Madness. -- Las Manzanas. --
    Cheoeque's Palace. -- The Revels. -- Feuds between the Chiefs.
    -- The Picunches and the Passes to Valdivia. -- Trading and
    Politics. -- Resolutions of Peace. -- A Grand Banquet. -- Power
    of Cheoeque. -- Araucanian Customs. -- Farewell Presents. --
    Invitation to Return. -- Orkeke's Generosity. -- Return to
    Geylum. -- Outbreak of an Epidemic. -- My Pretty Page. --
    Departure from Geylum                                            218


CHAPTER VIII.

GEYLUM TO PATAGONES.

  A Sick Camp. -- Oerroè Volcanic Hill. -- Crimè's Deathbed. --
    Graviel's Promotion. -- The Burning Ground. -- Hot Springs. --
    Fighting the Gualichu. -- A Real Fight. -- A Soda Lake. --
    Encampment at Telck. -- The Doctor comes to Grief. -- An
    Obliging Ostrich. -- Appointed Chasqui. -- Miseries of Pampa
    Life. -- A Bad Time. -- The Plains of Margensho. -- Casimiro's
    Distrust. -- Doctor and Sick Child. -- Duties of a Messenger.
    -- Departure of the Chasquis. -- Travelling Express. -- The
    Paved Pampas. -- An Ideal Bandit. -- Letter from the Chupat
    Colony. -- Trinita. -- Teneforo's Pampas. -- Champayo's
    Generosity. -- A Morning Drink. -- Departure from Trinita. --
    Valchita. -- The Pig's-Road. -- Wild Horses. -- The Travesia.
    -- Limit of the Patagonian Fauna and Flora. -- First View of
    the Rio Negro. -- Sauce Blanco. -- The Guardia. -- San Xaviel.
    -- Approach to Patagones. -- Señor Murga. -- Welsh Hospitality.
    -- Among Friends at Last                                         247


CHAPTER IX.

THE RIO NEGRO SETTLEMENTS.

  Patagones, or Carmen Old Town. -- The Fort and Buildings. -- The
    Southern Town. -- The English Mission. -- Elements of the
    Population. -- The Negroes. -- The Convicts. -- Lawless State
    of Society. -- The Cemetery. -- Early History of the Colony. --
    A Successful Stratagem. -- Villarino's Ascent of the River. --
    Expedition of Rosas. -- The Island of Choelechel. -- La Guardia
    Chica. -- Estancia of Messrs. Kincaid. -- Ancient Indian
    Graves. -- Flint Weapons. -- The Shepherd and Pumas. --
    Estancia San André. -- The Indians and the Colonists. --
    Calficura's Raid. -- Indian Method of Attack. -- The Tame
    Indians. -- View of the Valley. -- Trade of Patagones. --
    Fertility of the Soil. -- Rio Negro Wine. -- The Sportsman. --
    Advice to Emigrants. -- Interview with Col. Murga. -- The
    Government Grants to Chiefs. -- Casimiro again. -- The
    Tehuelches in Town. -- Farewell. -- The Welsh Utopia. -- Social
    Life at Patagones. -- The Steamer at Last. -- Aground. -- The
    Pilot. -- Pat Sweeny. -- Adieu to Patagonia                      288


APPENDIX.

  A.--A partial Vocabulary of the Tsoneca Language as spoken by the
    Northern Tehuelches                                              319

  B.--Testimony of successive Voyagers to the Stature of the
    Patagonians                                                      323




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.


  WÁKI KILLING A PUMA                                     _Frontispiece_

  MAP OF PATAGONIA                                          _at the end_

  STATION ON PABON ISLAND, RIO SANTA CRUZ                _to face p._ 37

  HUNTING GUANACO AND OSTRICH, VALLEY OF RIO CHICO               _p._ 64

  START FROM THE CAMP AT MÔWAISH, OR WINDOW HILL                      75

  CEREMONY OF WELCOME (TEHUELCHES AND ARAUCANIANS)                   110

  A WILD BULL IN THE CORDILLERA                                      151

  SKETCH MAP FROM RIO SENGEL TO TECKEL                               156

  TEHUELCHE ARMS AND IMPLEMENTS                                      164

  THE PRETTY HOUSE AND DANCE                                         175

  CROSSING THE RIO LIMAY                                             223




INTRODUCTION.


Three hundred and fifty years ago the great navigator Magellan anchored
in a port on the eastern coast of an unknown shore, part of the seaboard
of the vast continent of South America, to which he gave the name of St.
Julian. Starting from this point, the pilot Serrano explored the coast
to the southward, and discovered a river, which he named Santa Cruz. His
ship was wrecked near the mouth, and left her timbers on the rocks, the
first of the long list of vessels lost on that ironbound coast which,
from the mouth of the Rio Negro to the Straits, offers but one or two
safe harbours, while submerged reefs, fierce gales, strong tides,
currents, and overfalls combine to render it nearly the most perilous
known to navigators.

Magellan remained at Port St. Julian and Santa Cruz from April till
October of 1520, when he sailed southward, and discovered the Straits
which bear his name. Two months after his arrival at Port St. Julian a
man of gigantic stature appeared on the beach, 'larger and taller than
the stoutest man of Castile.' Eighteen natives afterwards arrived,
dressed in cloaks of skins and shoes of guanaco hide, which made huge
footmarks, whence they were called Patagonés, or 'large feet,' by the
Spaniards; and thus originated in a nickname the name of the country,
Patagonia. These men used bows and arrows, and had with them four young
guanacos, with which they decoyed the wild ones within shot. Two young
men were treacherously seized and carried off, howling and calling on
their god Setebos. The natives naturally resented this return for their
ready friendliness, and, attacking a party sent after them, killed one
Spaniard with their arrows. Enough, however, was seen of them to furnish
Pigafetta with some details. 'Their tents were light movable frames,
covered with skins; their faces were painted; they were very swift of
foot, had tools of sharp-edged flints, and ate their meat nearly raw.'

That the first knowledge of Patagonia was diffused in England by
Pigafetta's narrative is suggested by Caliban's lines in the 'Tempest:'
'he could command my dam's god Setebos;' but it was not till 1578 that
the newly-discovered country was visited by Englishmen.

Sir Francis Drake in that year anchored in Seal Bay--probably a little
to the south of Port Desire--and saw several Indians. His chaplain
narrates their method of stalking the ostriches: 'They have a plume of
ostrich feathers on a long staff, large enough to hide a man behind, and
with this they stalk the ostriches.' He further says: 'They would have
none of our company until such time as they were warranted by their God
"Settaboth." They never cut their hair, which they make a store-house
for all the things they carry about--a quiver for arrows, a sheath for
knives, a case for toothpicks, a box for fire sticks, and what not; they
are fond of dancing with rattles round their waists; they have clean,
comely, and strong bodies, are swift of foot, very active, a goodly and
lively people. Magellan was not altogether wrong in naming them giants,
yet they are not taller than some Englishmen.' Drake next visited Port
St. Julian; and, curiously enough, as Magellan had in this place put to
death two and marooned a third of his captains who mutinied, so this
harbour was the scene of the execution of Mr. Doughty, who chose rather
to be beheaded than to be put on shore. The ensuing year Sarmiento was
despatched from Callao to examine the Straits in search of the daring
Englishman. He saw natives who chased their game on horseback, and
brought it down with bolas. But fifty years had elapsed since horses had
been imported by the Spaniards of the Rio de la Plata, and already the
Indians in the far south had become horsemen, and would seem to have
exchanged their bows and arrows for the bolas.

In 1581 Sarmiento was sent from Spain with 2,500 men in twenty-three
ships, to found new colonies in the Straits, and established a
settlement, leaving 400 men and thirty women, furnished with eight
months' provisions. On his way home his ship was captured by the
English, and the unhappy colonists were altogether forgotten and
neglected by their Government.

Five years after, Thomas Cavendish anchored in a bay to the south of St.
Julian, called by him Port Desire, which perpetuates the name of his
little craft of 120 tons. Here the natives attacked his men with bows
and arrows. Visiting the Straits, he arrived at the settlement, and
found only twelve men and three women surviving, the rest having
perished of slow starvation and disease; and the name of the place,
Port Famine, conferred by him, still recalls the miserable fate of
these ill-fated colonists.

On his next voyage, in 1591, Cavendish died; but John Davis twice
visited Port Desire, and explored the river for twenty miles. During his
stay some 1,000 natives visited the strangers, and Knyvet describes them
as being fifteen or sixteen span high.

Passing over the visits of Van Noort and Schouten, in the reign of
Charles the Second Sir John Narborough took possession of the country
near Port Desire in the name of the King. But few natives were seen, and
the mate, Mr. Wood, boastingly declared that he himself was taller than
any of them.

In the eighteenth century Byron and Wallis successively visited the
shores of Patagonia, and made friends with the natives, whose height
was found to be from 5 feet 10 inches to 6 feet, while some were nearly
7 feet high.

In 1774 the Jesuit Father Falkner published his work on Patagonia,
containing all the information procured by himself and the other Jesuit
missionaries who had attempted to obtain a footing on the western and
northern boundaries. His account of the Tehuelches, or Tsoneca Indians,
was evidently derived from personal communication with them, although
his knowledge of the topography of their country seems to have been
procured from the reports of others. By this work, which produced a
great sensation, the jealous fears of the Spanish Government were
aroused, and they hastened to despatch an expedition to form settlements
on the coast of Patagonia.

Of the brothers Viedma, who were sent in command, Francisco founded
Carmen at the mouth of the Rio Negro, and Antonio, after first fixing
on Port Desire, determined finally on Port St. Julian as the site
of another colony. He thence undertook the first exploration of the
interior in search of timber for building, in the course of which he
reached the great lake at the foot of the Cordillera, from which flowed
the Rio Santa Cruz. Both on the coast and in the interior he received
much friendly aid from the Indians, of whom he formed a most favourable
opinion.

Under his brother's auspices the Rio Negro was ascended as far as the
mountains by Villarino, to whose expedition reference will be made in
the proper place.

No further knowledge was gained of the interior of Patagonia until the
survey of the Beagle, so ably performed and so admirably described by
Fitzroy and Darwin; during which the ascent of the Santa Cruz river for
200 miles enabled the latter to observe the remarkable formations which
he has so aptly described in his work on the Geology of South America.

This brief but perhaps tedious account has been given to show that
although the coasts of Patagonia had been explored and surveyed, yet
the interior of the country, though pierced by the expeditions of Viedma
and Fitzroy, remained up to a late date still almost unknown. Its
inhabitants, the Tehuelches, had been often communicated with, their
stature noted, and their friendly disposition commended; but their
real manners of life as they wandered through the country, and their
relations with, or difference from, the Araucanian and Pampa Indians,
had remained almost as much a mystery as they were in the last century.

During the last thirty years the Governments of Chili and of Buenos
Ayres have shown themselves inclined to claim the possession of the
coast, the former trying to advance from the Straits, and the latter
from Patagones; and the natives have acknowledged the influence of
either Government as they happened to be in the northern or southern
parts respectively. Our missionaries also have not left the Patagonians
without some efforts to instruct and evangelise them; and although these
efforts have been necessarily limited to the coast, yet the fruits of
Mr. Schmid's sojourn with the Tehuelches remain both in their friendly
feelings and in the lasting record of the vocabulary of the Tsoneca
language published by him. And the intercourse of these Indians with
Argentines and Chilians, and more especially with English officers,
sealers, and missionaries successively, all of whom have testified
favourably to their character, has tended to make them more open to
access, and to give them a knowledge of foreigners; so that in this
respect I can feel that to all those who have been mentioned as having
thus preceded me, this brief record is due from a traveller who has
experienced the friendly feelings of the natives towards strangers, and
especially Englishmen.

While engaged in preparing the ensuing pages for the press, I have had
an opportunity of perusing the work of M. Guinnard, first published
in French, and recently given to the English public in a spirited
translation, entitled 'Three Years' Slavery among the Patagonians.' The
name necessarily attracted me, but to my great surprise careful perusal
led to the distinct conviction that the author's personal experiences
were altogether confined to the Pampas Indians north of the Rio Negro.
From his own statements and omissions it is quite evident that he was
not carried by any of his successive masters across this river, which he
clearly and accurately defines to be (p. 40) the northern boundary of
Patagonia. The name of Patagonians is, therefore, a complete misnomer;
and the curious account (pp. 72-3) of the 'Tchéouelches,' or Foot
Nomads, clothed in seal skins and accustomed to live on fish, and
literally destitute of horses, is applicable to no tribe whatever east
of the Cordillera, the Fuegians being the only race presenting any of
the characteristic habits attributed to this so-called Patagonian tribe.

I hope I may not be supposed to be desirous of impeaching the accuracy
of M. Guinnard's account of the hardships endured in his captivity, or
of the customs of the Indians into whose hands he fell, much of which I
can corroborate; but it is to be regretted that he was induced, probably
by others, to describe under the name of Patagonians, the Pampas
Indians, who, by country, race, language, and character, are marked as
being altogether distinct from the Tehuelches of Patagonia.




AT HOME

WITH

THE PATAGONIANS.




CHAPTER I.

FROM THE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ.

  Journey Planned. -- Preparations. -- Passage from Stanley. -- The
    Straits. -- First Footsteps in Patagonia. -- The Narrows. --
    Punta Arenas. -- Commandante Viel. -- The Colony. -- The Town.
    -- Chilotes and Convicts. -- Resources. -- Visit to the Coal
    Bed. -- Lieut. Gallegos. -- The Start. -- Rio Chaunco. -- The
    Patagonian Pampas. -- Our Party. -- Cabecera del Mar. -- Oazy
    Harbour. -- A useless Chase. -- A Fireless Night. -- Volcanic
    Hills. -- Pampa Yarns. -- Rio Gallegos. -- First Indians. --
    Sam Slick. -- Rio Cuheyli. -- Meeting with Tehuelches. --
    Caravan of Women. -- 'Anglish' Politeness. -- Desert. -- Santa
    Cruz at last.


In April 1869 chance took me to our remote colony of the Falkland
Islands, with the purpose of taking thence a passage to Buenos Ayres to
arrange some business matters. During my stay in the settlement, the
coast of Patagonia, in the survey of which H.M.S. Nassau was then
engaged, formed a frequent topic of conversation. I had formerly, when
stationed on the south-east coast of America, read with delight Mr.
Darwin's work on South America, as well as Fitzroy's admirable Narrative
of the Voyage of the Beagle, and had ever since entertained a strong
desire to penetrate if possible the little-known interior of the
country. Now, at length, a favourable opportunity seemed to have arrived
for carrying out the cherished scheme of traversing the country from
Punta Arena to the Rio Negro, Valdivia, or even to Buenos Ayres. The
accounts given me of the Tehuelche character and of the glorious
excitement of the chase after the guanaco, graphically described by a
seaman, Sam Bonner, who had been much on the coast and had resided at
the Santa Cruz station, made me more than ever anxious to prosecute this
plan; and, having a tolerable acquaintance with Spanish, which language
many of the Indians know well, it seemed to me possible to safely
traverse the country in company with some one or other of their
wandering parties. Accordingly I bestirred myself to obtain information
as to the best way of getting such an introduction to the Indians
as would probably secure their consent; to which end most material
assistance was afforded by Mr. Dean, of Stanley, who kindly provided
me with letters of introduction to Captain Luiz Piedra Buena, an
intelligent Argentine well known in Stanley, the owner of a schooner, in
which he worked the seal fisheries on the coast, and also of a trading
station at the Middle Island, on the Santa Cruz river. Mr. Dean was of
opinion that I should be almost certain to meet with Don Luiz in the
Straits of Magellan, and that he would willingly exert his influence
with the Indians to enable me to carry out my plan of travel. I was
furthermore provided with letters of credit to the firm of Messrs.
Aguirre & Murga, at Patagones, or, as it is most commonly called at
Stanley, the Rio Negro.

Thus armed with credentials, and equipped with a guanaco skin mantle,
lazo and bolas, I availed myself of the offer of a passage to the
Straits made by an old friend who was bound to the westward coast.

In the first week of April we sailed from Stanley, and, after a
boisterous passage of eleven days, anchored in Possession Bay, just
within the entrance of the Straits, to wait for the turn of the tide, as
the extreme velocity with which the tides ebb and flow through these
channels renders it impossible for any vessel not possessed of great
steam power to proceed except the tide is favourable. Our first view of
the Straits did not impress me favourably. On either hand the shores
looked bleak and barren, though far away to the south and west the
mountains of Tierra del Fuego could be distinctly seen. As we anchored
early in the afternoon, a descent on the coast of Patagonia was
proposed, and a party speedily volunteered--well provided with guns
and other arms, for the purposes of sport and self-defence in case of
necessity--and were soon in the boat. As the tide was out, the shoal
water did not permit us to reach the shore, so we had to wade some two
or three hundred yards over beds of sharp-edged mussels, and, after a
climb up the steep cliff, found ourselves on the verge of a barren plain
which seemed perfectly destitute of life.

After a tramp of some distance we came to the edge of a gully running
down to the coast, where finding the torn carcase of a guanaco, we
stopped to examine what was to most of us an unknown animal; and
our speculations as to the curious hybrid form of the odd-looking
'camel-sheep' were put an end to by the discovery close by of the fresh
footprints of a puma. These were eagerly tracked, in the hopes of a
little entertainment; but after some tedious searching we abandoned
the pursuit, and again resuming our excursion, tramped along through
high, coarse grass, and sparsely scattered thorny bushes; some of the
sportsmen varying the monotony by an occasional shot at a snipe. The
day was very genial, the warmth of the bright sunshine was tempered by
a wind just cool enough to make a walk pleasant, and the Patagonian
climate was pronounced by all hands to be agreeable. Whilst we were
beating a rough bit of ground, to our utter amazement and delight our
friend the puma jumped out of a bush; but the first surprise was so
great, that the opportunity of giving him a long shot was lost. Away
we all started in chase, hoping to be able to keep him in sight from
a small adjacent eminence; and after a good breather two of the party
succeeded in viewing him to somewhere near the edge of the cliffs,
mainly guided by a retriever dog, which seemed as anxious as anybody to
see what the catamount hide was made of. On arriving at the cliff, a
seaman observed his tracks on the soft clay of the shelving brow, and
soon proclaimed his discovery of the puma in a hole or small cave just
below, by the exclamation of 'There he is!' at the same time thrusting
the stick he had been beating with nearly into the mouth of the 'lion,'
which had set our dog, and appeared about to spring on him. Two shots
were fired in quick succession, but apparently without effect, as
he made good his retreat, affording us a fine view as he went off,
springing in great bounds, along the beach. Pursuit was of course
organised, but night being near failed to afford us an opportunity of
a closer study of this specimen of the feline race; and we accordingly
started again for the ship, after firing a shot or two into the numerous
flocks of oyster-catchers and shags which were domiciled on the rocks
and about the cliffs. The number of these and other sea-birds was
incalculable; the numerous beds of mussels furnishing them with constant
food.

Next morning we were under weigh with the flood-tide, and rapidly ran
through the narrows at a speed of eighteen miles an hour. The scenery on
the northern side of the Straits offered little variety until we sighted
the Barrancas of San Gregorio, a range of somewhat picturesque hills,
rising near the north shore of the bay of the same name, and running
along for some miles in an easterly direction. On the southern or
Fuegian side of the Straits the land was low for some distance from the
coast, and resembled the northern shore, but high mountains were visible
in the background. After passing the second narrows, an hour or two's
run with the flood-tide and a good head of steam brought us opposite to
the 'Island of San Isabel,' or Elizabeth Island; after passing which the
snow-clad peaks of Mount Sarmiento, in the southern part of Tierra del
Fuego, came into sight, appearing to rise out of the water, ninety miles
distant, if not more. Steaming along the coast through numerous beds
of the characteristic kelp seaweed, which in the most forcible way
attracted our attention, by fouling the screw, and holding the ship
as if anchored for about an hour, we passed Cape Negro, and opened
completely different scenery. Instead of undulating plains, hills
thickly wooded were seen; at the foot of one of which, on a low piece
of flat ground, numerous horsemen, dressed in gay-coloured ponchos, were
visible, careering about.

It was the afternoon of Sunday, which in all Spanish South American
countries is a gala day, more or less appropriated to horse-racing.
However, the sight of a steamer appeared to cause a diversion, and, in
fact, a general race to the settlement ensued, all being apparently
anxious for anything new or strange. The anchor was soon dropped, near
an American schooner lying off the Sandy Point, from which the Chilian
settlement of Punta Arenas derives its name.

There was no sign of the Nassau, then engaged in the survey of the
Straits, which we had hoped to find in this anchorage; but from the
Chilian officer, who speedily boarded us, we learned that she had sailed
to the westward a day or two before our arrival, and was expected to
return immediately. The results of the careful observations made by Mr.
Cunningham, of the scenery and natural history of the Straits, have
appeared while these pages were in preparation for the press; and it
affords me pleasure to refer such as desire more scientific accounts of
the botany and zoology, at least of Southern Patagonia, than it was in
my power to obtain, to his work.

My own object in visiting Punta Arenas was to proceed thence to Santa
Cruz with the Indians, or in whatever way might prove feasible;
but, in truth, it was by no means clear to my mind how it was to be
accomplished; it was, therefore, with great relief that I learned
from the Chilian lieutenant that a small expedition was about to be
despatched by the governor to Santa Cruz in pursuit of some runaways
from among the deserters who were serving their term of punishment in
the colony. He suggested that the Commandante would, doubtless, give
permission to accompany this party; and, without delay, I accompanied
him on shore, and was introduced to Commandante Señor Viel.

Nothing could exceed the kindness and courtesy with which the
Commandante entered into my plans; he at once not only gave me
permission to accompany the party, but, unasked, offered me the use
of a horse, and told me not to trouble myself about the commissariat
for the road. It was possible, however, that the deserters might be
overtaken in the Pampas, in which case the party would return without
proceeding as far as Santa Cruz; he therefore advised me to secure
the services of some one acquainted with the route, who could act as
guide in the event of our having to proceed without the rest of our
companions.

I was afterwards introduced to Señora Viel, a fair Limena possessing all
the proverbial charms of the ladies of Lima, and who bemoaned bitterly
the isolation and ennui of life at Punta Arenas; she had literally no
equals of her own sex, and scarcely any of the other, to speak to. Señor
Viel had formerly commanded a Chilian ironclad, instead of which he had
accepted the government of this distant colony; his zeal and energy
in discharging the duties of his office were unceasing, and his naval
habits asserted themselves in the strictness of discipline maintained,
which was absolutely necessary to keep in order the motley population.
But as a residence, viewed from a social point of view, Punta Arenas
must have been unimaginably dull. The Commandante kindly pressed me to
make his house my home, promising quarters for the night--which his own
limited accommodation could not supply--in an adjacent house. So after
two days, agreeably spent in the interchange of courtesies and visits, I
bade adieu to my shipmates, who were to sail at daylight for the Western
Straits, and removed myself and traps to a wooden house close to the
Cuartel, the quarters of Don Centeno, the engineer in charge of the
Government works. The next morning, accompanied by Captain Cushing, of
the schooner Rippling Wave, I set out to procure some few necessary
supplies, and make inquiries for a guide. We bent our steps to the
store of a man named Guillermo, and after purchasing tobacco and other
necessaries, the talk turned on gold, of which Don Guillermo showed us
some specimens, obtained from the banks of a neighbouring stream. One of
the crew of the Rippling Wave grew greatly excited and exclaimed, 'Ah,
that's the stuff we used to grub up in a creek in Californy; I guess if
the old boat lays her bones on these here shores, I'll stop and turn to
digging again.' Hanging up in the store were some Indian bolas and a
belt made of beads, studded with silver bosses, which the owner informed
me was a woman's girdle, and, with the bolas, had been left in pawn by
the Indians. They had not, however, visited the colony, at least for
trading purposes, for several months, as they had taken umbrage about a
dispute between a Chilian and an Indian, in which they considered their
comrade to have been treated with injustice. The party described by Mr.
Cunningham evidently arrived with doubtful intentions, and the tact
displayed by Señor Viel removed their resentment. This information
explained what had previously mystified me, viz., that nothing was to be
seen or heard of the Indians with whom I had hoped to make acquaintance.
My good fortune in arriving on the eve of the departure of the
expedition, and the Commandante's courtesy, were now even more keenly
appreciated by me, as otherwise I should have been simply stranded in
Punta Arenas. The guide difficulty was not long of solution, although,
from the natural dislike of most of the unofficial population to take
part in the recapture of runaways, it had seemed rather perplexing.
After we had quitted the store, we were accosted by a man named J'aria,
who came to offer his services. A short examination of his knowledge
and recommendations proving satisfactory, he was engaged on terms which
certainly were far from exorbitant, and he deserves to have it recorded
that he fully earned his pay. My equipments and preparations for the
journey were now made complete by the thoughtful good nature of Captain
Cushing, with whom I proceeded on board his vessel, where he provided
from his stores, and forced on my acceptance, several most useful
articles; and it is pleasant to be able to publish my sense of the
kindness received from one of our American cousins, who are always ready
to sympathise with and befriend a Britisher, at least according to my
experience.

A stroll of inspection round the settlement was extended to the
saw-mill, not far distant, worked by water-power; where, under the
direction of Mr. Wells, an American, the trees when cut down are
converted into boards to build the houses that take the place of the
forest. Proceeding thence to the half-cleared outskirts, we found the
Commandante supervising numerous labourers, principally of the convict
class, who were busily engaged in felling trees, clearing stumps,
and otherwise preparing the way for the future development of the
settlement.

To anyone unaccustomed to frontier towns, the _coup-d'œil_ of the
town presented an irregular and random growth of wooden houses; but the
plan which was indicated in outline was laid out after the usual Spanish
American fashion, as originally prescribed by the Council of the Indies.
A main street ran near and parallel to the beach, crossing a large
vacant square--the Plaza, out of which, and at regular intervals from
the main street, ran other embryo streets intersecting at right angles,
so that the houses, whenever they should be built, would form blocks
or 'cuadros.' In the Plaza were the church and a large unfinished
school-house. Chilian ideas as to the public duty of education are
advanced, and the schoolmaster is a state functionary, combining at this
time at Punta Arenas the duties of secretary to the Governor with those
proper to his office. The excellent sketch of Staff-Commander Bedwell
(Cunningham, 'Straits of Magellan,' p. 70) shows the Governor's house
nearly at the end of the main street, and beyond it was the Cuartel, a
palisadoed inclosure, containing the barracks, the gaol or lock-up, and
the guard-house, irreverently termed by the officers of the Nassau 'The
Punch and Judy House,' and shown in the same sketch.

From this a constant look-out is maintained, and a light displayed
at night. The transverse streets, running up almost to the uncleared
forest, were only indicated by scattered houses, and in the line of the
main street two or three detached dwellings a mile distant were only
separated from the trees by patches of potato ground.

The first penal colony planted in the Straits by the Chilian Government
was established in 1843, at Port Famine, the ominous name of which
recalls the miserable fate of the colonists left there by Sarmiento in
1581. The superior anchorage was the inducement to select the same place
for the modern colony, but the same evil destiny seemed to cling to it.
After struggling on for some years, during which the inhabitants were
frequently reduced to great distress by the failure of supplies of food
from Chili, it was sacked and destroyed by the convicts, who mutinied
and killed the Governor and Padre. They afterwards seized a vessel in
which they attempted to escape, but were pursued by a man-of-war, and
met with deserved punishment.

The colony was subsequently removed to its present position, and in
addition to the involuntary immigrants, chiefly deserters from the army,
settlers were tempted by liberal grants of land, and a large number of
Chilotes or natives of Chiloe were introduced. These men, who are of
mixed Spanish and Indian blood, are a hardy, sturdy race, accustomed
to the use of the axe in their own thickly-wooded country, whence they
export quantities of timber. They are very Paddies in their diet, living
almost altogether on potatoes, which grow freely in Chiloe, but in Punta
Arenas do not attain large size. Besides land, the Chilotes receive
wages from the Government for their labour, and are the most industrious
portion of the population: the men are hard working, but also hard
drinking, and the women are said to be very lax in their notions of
fidelity. Of the convicts, some were allowed, for good behaviour, to
live in their own houses, subject to certain restrictions; but many of
them were utterly reckless, and needed to be kept under the strictest
surveillance, and locked up in the Cuartel every night. Notwithstanding
all precautions, escapes are continually contrived, and the runaways
face the difficulties of the Pampas, sometimes succeeding in joining the
Patagonians, but as often losing their way, and perishing of starvation,
or becoming a prey to the pumas. Thus, ten or a dozen had succeeded
in escaping just before my visit, necessitating the despatch of the
expedition in chase of them. The garrison consisted of some fifty or
sixty regular soldiers, besides irregular employés, who hunt wild
cattle or deserters, as occasion requires. The number of troops is quite
insufficient to defend the place against an attack of the Indians, but
the southern Tehuelches are not naturally inclined to raids, and if well
and fairly treated are more willing to avail themselves of the trading
facilities afforded by the half-dozen stores, the existence of which
could only, in my mind, be accounted for by the hopes of Indian barter,
for they were far in excess of the wants of the colony. Still the
permanent population was certainly a thirsty one, and seemed to do its
best to encourage trade, at least in grog: drunkenness in the streets
is, however, an offence punishable by imprisonment, and at the time of
my visit the blacksmith was in durance vile, whence the Irish Doctor had
only just been released for this venial offence.

There appeared to be little cultivation, with the exception of potatoes.
The climate does not permit wheat or barley to ripen, though, perhaps,
oats or rye might succeed. The tame cattle seemed to me stunted and
miserable, but in the forests there are others of a wild breed, which
are said to be large and of excellent quality; these, as well as the
red deer, afford, during some portion of the year, occupation to a few
hunters, who obtain high prices for their meat, but the supply is too
scanty and irregular to prevent fresh meat from being a rare luxury. The
resources and prospects of the colony naturally formed the subject of
conversation at Señor Viel's, and Don Centeno, who was in charge of the
survey of the newly-discovered coal bed in the vicinity, invited me to
join him the next day in a visit of inspection.

Next morning we accordingly set out, and crossing a small stream,
shortly arrived at the commencement of the forest, through which a
straight road was in course of formation. Numerous groups of Chilotes
were employed on all sides, some levelling the way already cleared,
others at work felling trees, others applying fire instead of the axe.
The timber consists chiefly of Chilian beech (Fagus antarctica) and
Winter's bark, described by Mr. Cunningham, the former of which splits
readily and is available for most purposes.

After Don Centeno had completed some minor details of surveying, we
struck into the dense forest, and followed a winding path until we
arrived at the bed of the stream, which debouches at the colony. This
we followed up for some time, and eventually arrived at a ravine, the
sides of which were as regular as if navvies had been employed to form a
cutting, in which, at a point sixty yards above our heads, the seam of
coal was visible. Here we dismounted and scrambled up a slippery path to
a spot where a shaft, or rather burrow, had been driven into the bed,
to the depth of perhaps fifty or sixty feet, made apparently for the
purpose of examining the quality, regularity, &c., of the seam. The coal
did not appear to me of a very good quality; but I have since heard that
it gave exceedingly favourable results. My companion also pointed out
to me a place in the opposite bank where some men had been washing for
gold, the specimens of which I had seen in the town; and their labours
were said to have been attended with good returns. As the day was
advancing and rather chilly, a fire was kindled; and after a warm
thereat, mounting our horses, we returned homewards down the ravine. On
emerging from the forest, we observed a large steamer just on the point
of anchoring; so we hurried on to obtain news and despatch our letters
if it should prove the Magalhaens--one of the line of packets from
Liverpool to Valparaiso. On the beach we found the Commandante and Mrs.
Viel, the latter having visited the vessel and obtained some English
newspapers. After dinner, accepting the Governor's offer of his boat, I
proceeded on board, and found her to be a magnificent steamer of great
power and good accommodation. The establishment of this line of steamers
will doubtless have a most beneficial effect on the prosperity of Punta
Arenas; as, though agriculture and Indian trade are not likely to reward
industrious or speculative immigrants, the discovery of the coal-bed is
of the most obvious importance as affecting the future of this colony.
It will now be possible to maintain powerful steam-tugs to tow
sailing-vessels through the Straits, and thus avoid the passage round
Cape Horn; whereas up to the present time the navigation of the Straits
has been almost closed to sailing-ships; while, owing to the great
steam-power required, even steamers, whether war or merchant ships, are
frequently obliged to buy wood at Sandy Point; and then, owing to the
vast quantity used to keep steam, not unfrequently are obliged to stop
again before entering the Pacific to renew their supply wherever they
could cut it. Now this will all be changed, and a steam-launch will
probably be kept to tow the lighters to and fro, and thus materially
facilitate coaling. As population and colonisation increase, encouraged
by the accommodation afforded by the Pacific steamers--which at this
present date run every month, bringing the Straits of Magellan almost
within hail--the interior of the country may become opened up, in which
case, probably, other sources of mineral wealth will be discovered and
made productive.

Our departure having been definitely fixed for the morrow, I proceeded
to review and arrange my equipments for the journey, a list of which may
gratify intending explorers of Patagonia. Two saddle-bags contained my
kit and necessaries, consisting of a couple of shirts and a jersey
or two, a few silk handkerchiefs, and soap, lucifer matches, writing
materials, fishing lines and hooks, quinine and caustic, and a small
bottle of strychnine. The armoury comprised a rifle in case complete,
and two double-barrelled breech-loading pistols, hunting-knives, a small
ammunition-case of unfilled cartridges, and a supply of powder. The only
instrument ventured on was a small compass. My personal equipment was a
shooting suit of tweed and a Scotch cap, and a most excellent pair of
boots made by Thomas, to which for comfort were superadded a guanaco
skin mantle, two ponchos, and a waterproof sheet. In the evening Señor
Viel introduced me to my future travelling companion, Lieutenant
Gallegos, who was to command our party. He was a short, thick-set man,
with a dark, almost Indian complexion, and looked all over what the
Commandante declared him to be, 'a man for hard work.' In his native
province of Arauco he had been for many years employed in the frontier
wars with the Indians, and could handle the lazo or the lance with
wonderful dexterity. He spoke with great cordiality of the officers of
the Nassau, and seemed well inclined to the company of one of the same
service; indeed, I am strongly inclined to believe that he is introduced
into the foreground of Commander Bedwell's sketch--at all events, if any
reader wishes to know his appearance, the occupant of the fallen
tree presents a strong resemblance to the leader of our party. Our
arrangements and prospects were fully discussed; and after bidding
farewell to Captain Cushing, who was to sail the next day, and to my
most kind and courteous host and hostess, we parted, agreeing to meet at
daylight ready for the road.

At an early hour of the morning of the 19th of April I was awoke by
J'aria, and with him and my small belongings proceeded to the Corral,
where the horses were being caught and loaded. Here we were joined by
Gallegos, and when everything was nearly ready for the start adjourned
to his house close by for a cup of coffee. The Señora seemed to regard
me with great commiseration, and recounted various dismal tales of the
dreadful cold winds, hardships, Indians, and other disagreeables to be
encountered; her consolations were cut short by the entrance of J'aria
with the news that all was ready. After a parting glass of something
stronger than water, we got into our saddles, and the cavalcade,
consisting of Gallegos, myself, one regular soldier, three irregulars or
employés of the Government, and J'aria, with twenty-one horses, left the
town. As we passed the cuartel, the guard turned out in the balcony and
presented arms, and the bugler executed a musical salute. It was a fine
frosty morning, and we rode on in high spirits, accompanied by two or
three horsemen, who were going to spend their Sunday festa in duck
shooting, and had made an early start to escort us a little way.
Scarcely had we crossed the stream when one of the baggage horses kicked
his load off; this was soon replaced; but when the bustle was over and
the cavalcade reformed, J'aria and one of the employés, to whom I had
confidingly entrusted a bottle of rum, were missing, and they did not
turn up again for some time, and the bottle never again. We rode along
the coast until we reached the outpost called Tres Puentes, where a
narrow pass, between the forest on one hand and the sea on the other,
is barred by a gate house tenanted by two men, posted there to prevent
desertion; they turned out, and we lingered for a farewell chat, during
which one of the sportsmen stalked and shot some ducks; at the report of
his gun the regular soldier's horse, not being used to stand fire, shied
and threw him, capsizing his saddle-bags, and strewing the beach with
tortillas (cakes) and coffee, with which his no doubt provident and
thoughtful 'she' had stored them. Gallegos sat in his saddle and laughed
at the scene; but as the others could not catch the horse, he gave us a
proof of his dexterity with the lazo. After this little diversion we
pursued our course along the beach as far as Cape Negro, where the
forests terminated, and our accompanying friends bade us adieu after
taking a parting glass all round; J'aria and the other absentee
overtaking us in time for this part of the performance.

Our horses' heads were then turned from the coast in a north north-west
direction, and after half-an-hour's ride a halt was called for breakfast
under the lee of a sheltering hill. To the southward we viewed the
counter slope of the wooded hills, below which on the other side lay
Punta Arenas. A thick growth of shrubs covered the ground, but beautiful
glades of luxuriant pasture were visible; one of which opened just to
the south of our camping place, and others appeared east and west like
oases of green. Their appearance caused me to remark that as a settler I
should choose this location for my hut. Gallegos, however, replied that
the pastures could not be used for the cattle of the settlement during
the summer, as neither the Indians nor their own men could be trusted;
the latter would desert, and the former would steal the beasts. After
a pipe we remounted, and having crossed the hill we descended to the
valley of a small but deep stream, called the Rio Chaunco, having forded
which we ascended the opposite border slope, and entered on the Pampa,
which name is universally used in Patagonia to designate the high
undulating plains or plateaux, frequently intersected by valleys and
ravines, or rising into successive or isolated hills, which generally
occupy the crest of the country. The Indians, indeed, who know a little
Castilian, apply the word Pampa indiscriminately to any tract of country
hunted over by them. After a successful day's sport, and the contentment
consequent on a hearty meal, they will ask with great satisfaction, 'Muy
buena Pampa? No?' really meaning 'Is not the wild life the best?' But
English readers, who have derived their idea of a Pampa from Head's
delightful work, or from other experiences of the unlimited grassy
or thistle covered plains which roll away for miles in the Argentine
States, and offer no obstruction to the stretching gallop of the
untiring gaucho, must not transfer that pleasing picture to Patagonia.
The Pampas, properly so called, of Patagonia, occasionally indeed
present a tolerably even and uniform succession of rolling plains
covered with coarse grass, but more frequently the surface, even when
unbroken by hills and suddenly yawning ravines, is sterile, with a
sparse vegetation, consisting of stunted bushes and round thistle
clumps; and even these are often wanting, and nothing clothes the bare
patches of clay or gravel; elsewhere it is strewn with huge round
boulders, and again rugged with confused heaps or ridges of bare
sharp-edged rocks, many of them of volcanic origin: this more
particularly applying to the northern part of the country. The only
uniformity of appearance is afforded in the winter, when the white sheet
of snow covers rocks, grass, and shingle; but one accompaniment is the
same, whatever be the nature of the soil or surface; and the word Pampa
invariably recalls to one's shuddering memory the cutting blasts which
sweep almost without intermission from various points, but chiefly from
the west, over the high country, till, reaching the heated atmosphere of
Buenos Ayres, the cold Patagonian wind becomes the Pampero, the sudden
and terrific blasts of which cause so many disasters among the shipping.
The descent from these Pampas to the valleys, or more sheltered and
fertile level ground bordering the banks of the streams and rivers, is
commonly termed 'Barranca,' or bank, from the scarped slopes, varying in
depth from fifty to two or three feet, and in angle from an easy to an
almost perpendicular descent, but often fissured by ravines or gullies,
affording roads, down all of which, however, the native riders gallop
with equal recklessness.

The Pampa we were now traversing presented an expanse of undulating
or rolling plains covered with a uniform growth of coarse grass
interspersed with barberry bushes, and occasional lagoons in the
hollows. No living creatures except ourselves appeared on the waste.
To the westward the snow-clad peaks of the mountains bordering the
Sarmiento Straits greeted us with an icy blast which made my thoughts
longingly revert to the cosy cabin and my late shipmates, who were, no
doubt, threading the intricacies of its channels. But the good guanaco
mantle kept out the wind, and our motley party pushed briskly on in
good order. Lieutenant Gallegos has been already introduced: as to
the others, J'aria was a small man, of rough exterior, of doubtful
extraction, and more than doubtful antecedents, who looked fit for
any business except good; but he served me most assiduously, and with
unlooked-for care. The soldier was a fine-looking fellow, new to the
Pampas, whose carbine, which he duly carried, proved a source of great
embarrassment to him; and his horse being by no means too manageable, he
was considerably bothered, much to the delight of the rest. Two others
were hybrids, between gauchos and sailors, having, like our marines,
been equally accustomed to service _per mare, per terram_; but, like the
jollies, they were unmistakeably useful and good men. The last of the
party was of the J'aria type. All were well mounted, and provided with a
spare horse. We carried for provisions biscuit, charqui or dried meat,
roasted wheat meal, and coffee and sugar, and were furnished with an
unusual but welcome luxury, a small tent, underneath which we cared
little for the bitter frost outside.

After riding over the Pampas for three or four hours we encamped for the
night in a hollow by the side of a lagoon, having selected a suitable
spot for pitching the tent on the sheltered slope, well out of the sweep
of the wind. The lagoon was covered with black-necked swans and other
wild fowl; so, as soon as the horses had been unloaded and looked after,
a fire lit, and all arrangements made for camping, two or three of us
went out to try and shoot some wild fowl; but our sporting endeavours
were not crowned with much success, and a little before dark we
returned to a supper of charqui, and after a talk over the fire, turned
in, and slept sound and warm, though outside the frost was severe. My
mind was much disquieted, first by the discovery that the box of rifle
ammunition which J'aria carried had been dropped by that worthy at the
scene of the baggage horse escapade, and secondly, by the mysterious
absence from my shot-belt of all my coin, consisting of an onza and a
few sovereigns. I said nothing, however, until next morning, when I
proceeded quietly to search, remembering that I had taken off my
accoutrements before the tent was pitched, and dropped in the grass I
found the missing coins. The story afforded J'aria a great theme for
jokes, and he often adverted to the chance of inheriting my ounce, in
a way that might have made a timid traveller expect foul play, though
nothing was farther from my guide's thoughts. At seven o'clock, after
coffee and a biscuit, we were again _en route_, and about ten arrived
close to the head of Peckett's Harbour. Here one of the party discovered
a horse, which was chased into our troop, but as it appeared lame was
not pressed into our service; it had probably belonged to the Indians.
As in a long voyage, so in a journey of this description, the slightest
novelty serves to relieve what it is needless to say becomes the
slightly monotonous task of trotting along behind the troop of horses
over barren wastes, so we were always on the _qui vive_ for something
to chase. One of the men had a dog with him, and shortly after the
excitement about the horse we started some ostriches, which, however,
proved too swift for the cur, and escaped over some muddy plots close to
the 'Cabecera del Mar.' This is a large inlet or arm of the sea, running
up some miles from Peckett's Harbour, with which it communicates by a
very narrow channel, which can only be crossed at low water; it was our
good fortune to arrive at this period, thus escaping a long _détour_
round the inlet. But our crossing was not effected without trouble; the
flood-tide rushing up like a mill-race, and proving almost too much for
the steadiness of one of the baggage-horses. After clearing the channel,
in our farther progress we passed several small streams with swampy
ground, all of which probably discharge themselves into Oazy Harbour,
and arrived towards evening at an old Indian encampment situated under
a range of hills, running more or less north and south, forming one
barrier of a broad and well-watered valley, bounded on the eastern side
by the well-known 'Barrancas' of San Gregorio.

Our station was just within the opening of the valley, which, being
sheltered from the wind, is the favourite winter quarters of the
Southern Tehuelches, whose encampment is usually pitched near Oazy
Harbour, called by them 'Ozay Saba.'

Westward the low flats which bordered the shores of the Cabecera del
Mar terminated in irregular hills, beyond which higher peaks rose, and
they in their turn were overlooked by distant snow-clad summits on the
horizon. Among the blue hills of the middle distance floated wreaths of
light haze so much resembling smoke that Gallegos, ever on the alert
for signs of the deserters, proposed to deviate from our route to
investigate, and only my strongly pronounced opinion in favour of haze
_versus_ smoke induced him to give up the idea. The Argentine Government
formerly planned a settlement in this valley, which was not carried out,
and the missionaries also proposed to fix a station hereabouts, with
Oazy Harbour as a depôt, but the Chilians of Punta Arena set up their
claims and compelled the missionaries to desist.

After camp was arranged, the weather, which since our start had been
bright with cold winds and moderate frosts at night, changed to rain,
and Gallegos proposed to me that, in the event of its continuing bad,
we should remain under the shelter of the tent. However, though the
night was rough and rainy, morning broke fair and the sun rose bright
and warm, so we started, following a path along the base of the
before-mentioned range of hills until about ten o'clock, when, just
after passing a beautiful little stream where I noticed fish darting
about in the pools, a herd of guanaco, hitherto concealed by a small
eminence, came into view. Chase was immediately given, but most of our
horses were soon blown, and Gallegos, the soldier, and myself having
ascended the hills over which the herd had taken flight, as it appeared
useless to continue the chase, stopped on the crest and watched the
animals as they streamed up an opposite hill. One of the party was
missing, and suddenly an exclamation from the Lieutenant 'What is it?'
caused us to turn our eyes in the direction to which he pointed, where
some fancied they descried a man. The idea of deserters immediately
occurred to their minds, so they started off, asking me to tell J'aria
(who had remained with the horses) to travel on to a given spot at the
head of the valley. Having descended the hill, which was tunnelled with
burrows of the Ctenomys Magellanicus,[1] the crowns of which, yielding
to the horses' tread, proved a series of dangerous traps, I rejoined
J'aria and we pursued our way for a few miles until we reached a small
lagoon at the head of the valley, covered with thousands of widgeon and
duck. The sight suggested the thought that no man need starve in this
country, so abundant seemed the supplies of animal life. Here we waited,
and in the course of half-an-hour the remainder came up with their
horses blown, one of the party having a piece of guanaco meat hanging
to his saddle. This was José Marinero, one of the hybrids, who had
succeeded in lazoing a guanaco, at which he appeared intensely
delighted. The 'man,' as I had previously supposed, proved imaginary. I
regretted not being up at the death, as it turned out that José had
been close to us, but hidden from sight by a rise. After a pleasant and
refreshing rest and a draught of café Quillota (parched corn meal and
water), we resumed our route north. After leaving the lagoon, a scarcely
perceptible slope ascended from the valley, and a more undulating course
was traversed until we reached a small cañon, which, after a gradual
descent, dipped down between walls a hundred feet high, sloping up at
either hand, and finishing in a rounded summit leading to the high
plain. 'Here,' said J'aria, 'there is no firing, and those _stupid_
Indian women actually carry loads of it from the next stage.' But the
event proved that the Indians were wiser than ourselves. Following this
we arrived at another cañon running at right angles, east and west, on
one of the grass-covered sides of which we observed a couple of horses
feeding in a hollow which looked more verdant than the rest of the
ground, but the animals being caught and examined proved unsound and
useless. In the bottom of the cañon there flowed a small but deep stream
spreading into lagoons in places. We crossed this and encamped on the
northern side, and found J'aria's words, as to no fuel to be found about
this valley, verified, much to our discomfort. Towards evening we went
out and shot some ducks, but having no fire to cook with, were content
to turn in on meal and water. During the night the tent pole, having
been first soaked with rain and then frozen, snapped in two, and down
came the spread of wet canvas; and altogether we did not spend a very
pleasant time.

  [1] Cunningham, p. 133.

Misfortunes never come single; at daylight no horses were to be seen,
and we had to wait until near ten o'clock before they turned up. During
this interval we burnt the tent pegs and some chips from the tent pole,
and raised sufficient fire to make coffee. J'aria informed me that this
cañon extends from the Cordillera to the sea, but runs in a tortuous
manner, and we afterwards again struck either the main line or some
cañon leading from it. Having scaled the precipitous banks, we headed
towards a range of peaked hills, curiously resembling one another, and
after passing down one or two more cañons, where we refreshed ourselves
with the berries of a barberry (Berberis axifolia), called by the
Chilians califate, and also saw plenty of the red and white tea-berries,
so common in the Falklands, we entered a wide plain or valley, at the
farther end of which rose a peculiar pointed hill, one of a range that
stretched away east and west, pierced by a pass. In the midst of it a
huge square flat rock shone white in the sunlight, forming a striking
object: it looked like a megalith, deposited by giants to cover the
grave of some deceased hero. Others of less dimensions lay strewn here
and there, giving somewhat of a graveyard aspect to the scene. As we
advanced the ground was encumbered with rocks and scoriæ, lying in heaps
in all directions, making it very difficult travelling for the horses,
and on arriving at the hills themselves their appearance was decidedly
volcanic. The whole immediate vicinity of this range of hills presented
a peculiarly wild, blasted, and weird appearance; nevertheless ostriches
and guanaco were observable in great quantities. My first thought on
passing one hill, where, among the other fantastic forms into which
the rocks had been tossed, was a natural corral, or circle of huge
fragments, built with apparent regularity, but of superhuman dimensions,
was, 'What a hell this must have been when the volcanoes were in an
active state, belching out the streams of lava and showers of rock, and
that perhaps at no distant period!' While at Santa Cruz, Casimiro told
me of an active volcano situated at a distance and in a direction which
would fix it as belonging to this range. Formerly its neighbourhood had
been frequented by the Indians, as the guanaco resorted thither in great
numbers during the winter; but the Indians' horses had most of them been
poisoned by drinking the water of a stream close to the range, and soon
after all the toldos were shaken down by an earthquake or the vibration
of an explosion, and since then they had not ventured to go near the
place. Casimiro and Gonzalez had, however, subsequently ascended the
volcano, and had killed numbers of guanaco in the neighbourhood. It was
also mentioned that when they were encamped on the Cuheyli, or Coy Inlet
River, tremendous volumes of thick black smoke, rolling from the west,
enveloped the Indians and terrified them exceedingly. No signs were
afterwards found of burned pasture, and it was conjectured that the
Canoe Indians of the Chonos Archipelago had fired the western forests,
but it was much more likely to have been due to volcanic eruption. While
trotting along the defile through these hills formed by a chasm, with
perpendicular walls of rock rising on each hand, as evenly scarped as
the sides of a railway cutting, I observed several caves, which J'aria
had a tradition the Indians formerly used as dwelling places. This pass
led into another valley still more rugged and strewn with sharp angular
fragments of rock, amongst which stunted shrubs began to appear; and
lagoons, some of which were encrusted round the edges with saltpetre,
and contained brackish water, might be seen at intervals. Towards
evening we encamped by the side of a small lagoon of circular form,
with wall-like cliffs rising some 200 feet from its banks, and nearly
surrounding it. I took a stroll, rifle in hand, whilst the men were
getting firewood; and plenty of guanaco were visible, but I only
succeeded in wounding one, which escaped on three legs. Traces of a
puma, in the shape of carrion, were also there, but Leon himself was
hidden. So I returned empty-handed to the fire, where I found a cheerful
supper of wild duck and guanaco meat just ready. The moon was beautiful,
and the air just frosty enough to be bracing and exhilarating, so some
of us staid smoking and spinning yarns until the small hours. The
stories were chiefly of adventures on the Pampas. José narrated how,
when in pursuit of a party of runaways in the depth of winter, when the
snow lay thick on the ground, he and his comrade rode into a valley
where countless guanaco had taken refuge from the storm in the upper
heights, and stood huddled together, too benumbed by the cold to attempt
to escape, and were slaughtered like oxen in the shambles. In another
hunt the party overtook the deserters, housed in the toldo of an Indian,
and a fight ensued, ending in the death of one of the pursuers; the
deserter who shot him was pistolled, and J'aria and José carried the
dead body of their comrade on horseback to the settlement, sixty
miles distant, proceeding without a halt all through the night, and
accomplishing their ghastly journey by the next morning. J'aria related
how he had been drifted in a launch among the ice in the Straits, and
carried over to Tierra del Fuego, where they found rocks so magnetic
that iron nails adhered to them. He further amused us by a short
dissertation on his domestic arrangements; how, when his last wife
died, he married a Chilote to be mother for his children and wife for
him, and he always called her in conversation the 'Madre Muger'--wife
mother.

Next morning we started early, and varying our march with one or two
races after foxes, which generally met their death in a very short time,
and an engagement with a female puma, which one of the men despatched by
a splendid revolver shot through the head, traversed some uneven Pampas,
with occasional hills, and arrived at the descent of the valley of the
Rio Gallegos, where the very remarkable bench formation, afterwards
observed on a smaller or larger scale in other Patagonian rivers, first
arrested my attention. To the west, some miles away, a high hill,
apparently of basalt, the square summit of which with seemingly regular
walls and towers mimicked the distant view of an extensive fortress,
served as a landmark for the break in the barranca, which formed a
natural road, by which we reached the first or upper bench, a mile and a
half in width; from this a drop or scarped slope of 50 feet and upwards
descended to another terrace or plain of equal extent, and terminating
in another fall, at the bottom of which lay the bed of the river; it is
fordable in the summer months, I believe, in many places, but when we
crossed the water about reached where one's saddle flaps would be if
riding on an English saddle. After crossing the ford a halt took place
to smoke a pipe, whilst doing which we watched the gyrations of a huge
vulture of the condor species; he hovered for some time, and at length
boldly settled on a point of rock about a hundred yards distant; so the
soldier, whose carbine was always ready, took a shot, but missed, much
to the grief of Gallegos, who asserted that the heart of the vulture is
a good remedy for certain diseases. We then mounted, and riding about a
mile halted for the night by a spring gushing out of a ravine in the
slope between the upper and lower benches, where the pasture was good,
as J'aria declared that water was scarce for some leagues farther on.
The bivouac arranged, José and myself proceeded to try and shoot a
guanaco, but the plain was too open, so, after lighting up a bed of dry
grass to attract any neighbouring Indians, we very foolishly indulged in
a bathe in the river. The water was intensely cold, and the ill effects
of this ill-timed indulgence were felt for a long time after. The
soldier meanwhile was away on horseback chasing a large herd, but he
returned about dusk empty handed. Next morning we started about 9
o'clock, having been, as usual, delayed by the horses having strayed
some distance. Ascending the slope we crossed the higher bench, a
barren, dreary waste, for about a league, until we came to a lagoon
covered with upland geese, and lying just below what may be termed the
barranca of the Upper Pampa. Halting here for a smoke and warm to dispel
the effects of the intensely cold wind, we were about resuming our route
to ascend the steep slope of the upper plains, when large columns of
smoke, in answer to the signal fire we had left behind us, rose up to
the sky in a N.E. direction. We moved on, and arriving at the summit of
the ascent, looked eagerly round for signs of the fire, but nothing
was visible. The plains lay before us apparently destitute of life,
excepting a stray guanaco here and there. J'aria then set light to a
neighbouring bush, which gave out dense clouds of black smoke, and in a
few minutes this was answered in the same direction as that previously
observed. A horseman was at length espied galloping towards us, who
proved to be an Indian named Sam, son of the chief Casimiro, who has
been mentioned in the missionary reports. After conversing for a short
time with J'aria and Gallegos, he turned to me and said, in English,
'How do you do? I speak little Anglishe,' which he had learned during
a visit to the Falklands, where also he had acquired his sobriquet of
Sam Slick. He then galloped away at full speed, and brought up his
companions, who had been concealed from view in a neighbouring hollow;
the party consisted of two men and a boy, and two women, all mounted,
and apparently having just finished hunting, as they had plenty of fresh
guanaco meat with them. We halted by a bush, and in a few minutes had a
fire kindled, and the pipe being handed round, I had an opportunity of
observing them closely. The men were fine muscular specimens. One, whom
they called Henrique, was a Fuegian, formerly, I believe, a captive, but
now doctor, or wizard. He travelled with this party separate from the
remainder of the tribe on account of some suspicion of his having caused
the death of a chief. One of the men, taller than the others, was a
Tehuelche. The boy was bright looking and intelligent, and it afterwards
appeared that Don Luiz Buena had kept him for some time, vainly
endeavouring to teach him Spanish. They were very cordial, and
especially forced on me more meat than I could carry; but there was
a certain constraint visible in their manners, probably owing to their
being conscious of some dealings with the deserters, whom J'aria
counselled them to despatch whenever they might meet with them. The
women carried bottles of water, which they readily gave us, to our
great refreshment and relief, for we were all parched with thirst.

Gallegos asked Sam whether he was willing to guide us to Santa Cruz,
J'aria not being over certain of the route. The tracks made by the
guanacos are easily mistaken by almost anyone but an Indian for the
trail of 'chinas,' or caravans of women and laden horses; and this,
combined with the want of landmarks on the Pampas and the confusing
succession of hills closely resembling each other, renders it only
too easy to lose the right direction. As examples of this, out of ten
deserters of whom the party was in search, six were never more heard of.
Our guide J'aria himself, when travelling from Santa Cruz to the colony,
lost his way, and would inevitably have starved had he not fortunately
been fallen in with by a party of Indians. Sam having agreed to come
with our party, we bid adieu to the Indians, who, in return for their
presents of meat, were gratified with a little tobacco, and rode off.
Suddenly a fox started up from a neighbouring bush. The soldier giving
chase, Sam shouted, 'Stop, I'll show you:' at the same time putting
spurs to his horse, and cutting Reynard off, he put his hand to his
waist-belt, drew out his bolas, gave them two turns round his head,
and in another minute the fox was lying dead, with his ribs crushed
completely in where the metal hall had struck him. Under the directions
of our new guide, who rode ahead with me, we traversed a succession of
high barren plains, sinking into frequent irregular hollows, without
streams, but usually containing lagoons of salt or brackish water,
until, about 4 P.M., we descended into the valley of Rio Cuheyli, or
the river, which debouches at Coy Inlet. The bench formation, though
noticeable, is not here so decidedly marked. For some time we pursued
the trail in an orderly march; but an ostrich springing nearly under our
horses' feet, and escaping over some marshy swamp, where horses could
not follow, roused Sam's hunting propensities, and he proposed to
myself, the soldier, and José to leave the path--which he said, with
emphatic disdain, was good for women, not for men--and ride up the
barranca to see him ball an ostrich; so having regained the Pampa, we
formed into line, about two hundred yards apart, to drive a certain area
of ground down to a point where there was a gentle slope to the valley,
so as to meet the advancing cavalcade of the rest of our party. We saw
nothing except one ostrich vanishing at great speed towards the valley
at another point, and a pair of doves, which I remarked with interest;
so we returned to the track, and as night was closing in, pushed on,
wishing to cross the ford of the river and encamp on the other side. At
seven o'clock, having reached a nice spring flowing from the barranca,
where there was firewood in profusion, Gallegos ordered a halt, although
Sam wished to proceed, observing that the moon was so bright it was 'all
the same as day.' We accordingly encamped for the night, after making
a good supper off guanaco meat, which was a pleasant change after our
previous charqui. The valley of the Cuheyli slightly indicates the bench
formation, though it does not present so distinctly marked terraces as
those which border the Gallegos River; but the lowest or river plain,
which is nearly two leagues wide in the neighbourhood of the ford, is of
a more fertile character, the pasture being luxuriant and good. One or
two of the springs--notably the one the water of which, contrary to our
guide's advice and example, we drank--had a strong taste of iron, which
caused all the party to suffer from internal derangement; and Sam stated
that near our encampment there was a deposit of the black earth with
which the Indians paint their bodies. Starting early, after a night of
severe frost, we soon struck the ford. Our guide had vanished; but while
rearranging the packs, we saw a volume of black smoke rising to the
east, caused by Sam, who, having thus signalled his countrymen, rejoined
us on the march across the slightly ascending plain. We then observed
numerous Indians galloping in our direction, and crossing the stream at
various parts, as J'aria remarked, quite regardless of fords. We halted,
and were soon surrounded by about forty or more, most of them riding
useful-looking horses barebacked. As they appeared very friendly,
Gallegos gave them some biscuit and charqui; their chiefs--the head
cacique being a nephew of Casimiro--forming them into a semi-circle, in
tolerably good order, to receive the present. There were undoubtedly
some very tall men amongst them, but what struck me particularly was
their splendid development of chest and arms. Although the wind was very
sharp, many of them had their mantles thrown back in a careless way,
leaving their naked chests exposed to the air, and appeared not the
least incommoded. They readily recognised me for an Englishman, coming
and examining me closely, and asking for tobacco with a broad grin on
their faces, exposing a wonderfully clean and regular set of teeth. My
gratifying their importunate requests for tobacco made Sam very jealous,
and for some time he bothered me with remarks such as 'Me very cold,
no got poncho,' 'Me no got knife, me no got "pellon"' (saddle-cloth),
until, finding it useless to beg, he relapsed into sullen silence. A
smoke of the pipe, however, brought him back to his usual cheerful
temper, and as we galloped along he chanted an Indian song, which
consisted of the words 'Ah ge lay loo, Ah ge lay loo,' expressed in
various keys.

After a ride of some leagues in a rather more open but still undulating
country, a break in the Pampas was reached. Hills of irregular and
picturesque outlines, with labyrinthine valleys or ravines, not running
in parallel order, but communicating with each other, occupied an
extensive district, and though travelling was considerably more
difficult, yet the change in the aspect of nature was grateful after
the barren monotony of the plains.

We halted in an Indian encampment, situated in a valley underneath a
peaked hill called 'Otiti,' where there were pools of fresh and salt
water in close proximity. Amongst the incense and thorn bushes, which
grow at intervals in these regions, we passed to-day another description
of shrub with a thick rough bark, which is readily detached and leaves
a long rattail-like sort of twig. From the Rio Gallegos the soil had
become generally of a yellower colour than on the south side of that
river, although in the valleys and hollows dark peaty earth was
generally to be found, and the surface of the Pampas had assumed a more
desolate appearance, being strewn with small pebbles, and studded with
bushes--generally of a thorny species. Round clumps of prickly thistles,
which burn like tinder on applying a lighted match--and a few stray
tufts of withered grass, only made more desolate the hungry barrenness
of the deserts, over which the wind blew with cutting violence, yet they
are the home of large herds of guanaco, ostriches, puma, and armadillo,
though the latter were at this period comfortably hybernating.

Next morning no horses were visible, and as time went on till ten
o'clock without any appearance we all began to suspect Indian treachery.
Sam volunteered the remark that if they (the Indians) had played us
such a trick, he would go and clear all their animals out the following
evening. This threat there was fortunately no occasion for him to put
into execution, as the troop proved only to have strayed into another
valley. As we were now nearing Santa Cruz, which the last of the Indians
were just leaving, having completed their trade and finished all the
grog, we saw numerous columns of smoke, caused by their hunting parties.
After passing the broken ground and reaching the high Pampa, Sam and
myself rode on ahead, amusing ourselves by fruitlessly chasing guanaco
or ostrich, but Sam's dexterity with the bolas was frustrated by his
being mounted on a horse belonging to the expedition and unused to this
work. Towards evening, after again passing numerous salt lagoons, we
came to a descent of 300 or 400 feet leading to a valley containing a
large salina, and halting, made our fire by the side of a spring,
near which, Sam informed me, were the graves of two Indians, which he
mentioned with the deepest respect and in an awe-stricken undertone.

Our signal smoke, which was as much to attract Indians as to give the
direction of our route to Gallegos and J'aria, was soon responded to
from the opposite hills on the northern side of the valley, and shortly
a line of mounted women and children descended the slope in front,
making for our fire, which Sam informed me was their intended camping
place. We advanced to meet them, and Sam conversed in their tongue,
interpreting to me that they had left Santa Cruz two days previously,
and that Don Luiz P. B. had quitted his settlement on the island to sail
in his schooner to Buenos Ayres; while the Northern Indians, encamped to
the north of Santa Cruz, with whom I hoped to proceed to the Rio Negro,
had no intention of marching until the ensuing spring. On leaving those
ladies, amongst whom was a young and rather pretty girl, I lifted my cap
in salute, which called forth a burst of laughter from the whole group
and cries of 'Anglish, Anglish!' amidst which we rode off to join the
remainder of our party, who were crossing the valley to the eastward,
having intentionally deviated from the straight route; and although Sam
used every effort to induce Gallegos to stop at the Indian encampment,
the latter wisely determined to proceed about a league farther, knowing
that a halt here would cause a considerable inroad to be made in the
stock of provisions, which, in view of the return journey, with perhaps
an increased party, it was desirable to avoid. We accordingly left the
sheltered valley and encamped on the plateau in an exposed situation
near a lagoon, the ice of which had to be broken to secure a supply
of water. The frost was keen, and the tent afforded but a partial
protection from the biting wind; so that the economical foresight of
our leader resulted in all the party spending the coldest night hitherto
experienced by us.

During the evening we were visited by several Indians, bringing presents
of ostrich and guanaco meat. I was presented by the soldier with a piece
of the gizzard (the tid bit), which he had cooked on the end of his
ramrod; but I must confess I did not appreciate it at the time, though
later on in my journey I learnt to relish this and other strange
delicacies. Amongst the Indians who gave us the benefit of their company
this evening was 'Pedro el Platero,' mentioned in Mr. Gardener's mission
book; also an old squaw rejoicing in the name of 'La Reina Victoria'
(Queen Victoria), who was the occasion of much chaff, my Chilian friends
declaring I ought to salute the sovereign of the Pampas in due form; but
having obtained a charge and a light for her pipe, all she required, she
was soon lost sight of in the dark. We gladly left the camp early the
ensuing morning, the cold continuing unabated; the wind blew strong
in our faces, and though from the northward, was so keen that Sam and
myself kept galloping on and kindling fires at intervals.

Thus we rode on over a tract of country surpassing in desolation all the
districts hitherto traversed. As far as the eye could reach stretched a
level waste unrelieved by even an eminence or hollow; the aspect of the
low withered shrubs, coarse parched grass, and occasional patches of
pebble-strewn ground which for thirty miles wearied the eye with dreary
sameness, produced an extraordinary feeling of depression, which was
afterwards recalled when journeying through the Travisia, bordering the
Rio Negro, which this district resembles, though on a smaller scale.
Occasional frozen lagoons, doubtless supplied by rainfall, only added to
the desert aspect of this trackless wilderness. The situation was not
improved by Sam pulling up and remarking that he was by no means sure
that he had not lost himself. The only variety was afforded by an
unlucky fox which we chased till he escaped, as he thought, on to the
ice of a lagoon, but the treacherous surface gave way, and poor Reynard,
after a vigorous struggle, sank out of reach of a lazo. At last, about
two o'clock, the desert terminated in a cliff rising from the valley at
our feet, and we looked down upon the winding river of the Santa Cruz.

Having waited till the rest came up, we descended by a gorge to the
valley, when, after refreshing ourselves by a drink of water, we struck
into a trail which followed the river downwards. We were all in high
spirits at the prospect of a speedy and felicitous conclusion to our
journey; and J'aria was continually questioned as to the distance of
the settlement. His answer was invariably 'a league;' and we rode along
vainly expecting every moment to see the place, rounding innumerable
promontories or points where the barranca advanced into the valley.
Each of these projecting cliffs, which stood like outposts of the
Pampas, J'aria declared in succession to be the last, Sam all the while
maintaining a dignified silence, until at length, at 7.30, when we had
almost despaired of ever arriving, we came to the ford opposite the
island of the settlement, and a barking of dogs saluted our ears. After
Sam had hailed, an answer came back, that if we were going across that
night we must look sharp, as the tide was flowing. We accordingly
proceeded to cross at once, narrowly escaping having to swim our horses,
which on a cold frosty night would have been anything but a pleasant
business.

My ideas as to the size and extent of the settlement--and it must be
confessed my visions of a 'cheerer,' and even of wine, to put some
warmth into my chilled frame--were sadly dispelled by the reality; the
thriving, though small, town of my imagination being represented by one
house, and all wine and liquor proving to have been exhausted. But this
was fully made up for by discovering in Mr. Clarke--or, as the Indians
called him, 'Clakalaka'--an old acquaintance, whom I had known some
years previously in the Falklands. His utter surprise at the sudden
appearance of one whom he thought far away may be imagined. But, to my
great delight, he thoroughly approved of the proposed excursion. His
cordial welcome and hot coffee soon cheered up our spirits, and when
warmed and rested we discussed my plans. It appeared that the Indians
had not reported wrong as to Don Luiz Buena's movements and the
intentions of the Northern party; but Mr. Clarke believed that the
schooner was still detained in the river mouth waiting for a fair wind,
and undertook to send off a messenger to communicate with him: my object
being to obtain permission to reside in the settlement until the return
of the schooner, so as to equip myself with stores as presents for the
Tehuelches. After an agreeable 'confab,' I turned in on a shakedown on
the floor, well satisfied with having accomplished the first stage,
and deriving a good omen for the remainder of the journey from this
successful trip to Santa Cruz.




CHAPTER II.

SANTA CRUZ.

  Introduction to Chiefs. -- Orkeke. -- Chilian Deserters. -- The
    Settlement. -- Island of Pabon. -- Natural Advantages. -- The
    Mission Station. -- Mr. Clarke. -- Our Circle at Pabon. --
    Expedition to Lake Viedma. -- Winter Occupations. -- Work and
    Play. -- Casimiro's Adventures. -- His Character. -- A Winter
    Hunting Excursion. -- A Pampa Snow-storm. -- The Santa Cruz
    Valley. -- Up the River. -- The Northern Hills. -- Pumas. --
    Devil's Eyes. -- Hunting on Foot. -- Intense Cold. -- Return of
    the Deserters. -- Visit to the Indian Camp. -- First Night in a
    Toldo. -- Towing a Horse. -- Adieu to Santa Cruz.


Our first business next day was to despatch a messenger to board the
schooner, if she should prove to be still in the mouth of the river. My
Chilian friends had found some of the deserters, who had been taken into
employment, and subsequently detained as close prisoners by the Mayor
Domo, at the instance of a serjeant sent round from Punta Arena in the
schooner, to solicit Don Luiz's assistance in their capture. About noon
Casimiro, soi-disant chief of the Tehuelches, and father of Sam Slick,
rode in from a hunting excursion, mounted on a tall, shapely horse, and
carrying a guanaco on his saddle. I was formally introduced, and my
plans and purpose fully explained to him; and soon after Orkeke, the
cacique of the party of Northern Tehuelches, encamped on the Rio Chico,
arrived. His consent was necessary to enable me to accompany them in
their journey, and by means of Casimiro as an interpreter, as the chief
spoke but little Spanish, my request was preferred. He confirmed the
statement of Mr. Clarke, that his people intended to winter in their
present encampment, and then proceed northwards; but did not seem at all
disposed to welcome the addition of an Englishman to his party, urging
the difficult nature of the road, length of time, chances of fights,
&c., &c. However, I hoped that during the enforced delay opportunities
would arise of improving our acquaintance, and obtaining his consent. I
was much struck with the grave and dignified bearing of the old chief.
Standing fully six feet, and with a well-proportioned muscular frame,
no one would have guessed him to have passed his 60th year; and whether
vaulting on a bare-backed steed, or leading the chase, he displayed an
agility and endurance equal to that of any of the younger men: his thick
black hair was slightly streaked with grey; and the bright intelligent
eyes, aquiline nose, and thin firm lips were very unlike the popular
idea of Patagonian features; a retreating forehead rather marred the
expression of his face, which was, however, grave and thoughtful, and
at times strikingly intellectual. Months passed in his company gave me
afterwards ample opportunity of studying his powers of reflection, which
were great, and often found expression in pithy and amusing sayings.
Although particularly neat in his dress, and cleanly in his habits, he
was troubled, like all the Indians, with vermin; and one night he roused
me up to have a smoke, and after sitting for some time, apparently lost
in deep thought, he remarked, 'Musters, lice never sleep!' He would
sometimes, but rarely, indulge in intoxication, but never quarrelled,
and it was an understood thing that either he or his brother Tankelow
should on occasions of a general drinking bout remain sober to protect
their families. He was himself childless, and had adopted a little
terrier named Ako, which enjoyed the place and honours of an only child;
but he displayed great affection towards his nephews and nieces, some
one or other of whom might often be seen in his arms on a march, or
after the return from the chase. During our first acquaintance I was
most pleased when, as often happened, he joined our little circle, and
in the company of his old friend, Mr. Clarke, unbent from his gravity
and laughed and talked in a way that seemed quite foreign to the usually
serious chief. It must be confessed that he was jealous and suspicious,
and a little stingy, preferring to increase rather than lessen his
large stock of horses, gear, and arms; but from the time I became his
guest his conduct to myself was irreproachable.

In the evening the messenger returned; he had of course completely
mistaken his instructions, and informed Don Luiz that the Englishman
desired to proceed in the schooner to Buenos Ayres, and accordingly a
boat arrived with the morning flood-tide to take me off. Mr. Clarke good
naturedly undertook to go himself and explain matters; and returned with
a kind message, offering me quarters and every hospitality if I chose
to remain in the settlement for the next two months, at the end of
which period the schooner might be expected to return. Lieut. Gallegos
strongly urged me to accompany him back to Punta Arena, painting in
strong colours the tedium and discomfort of a winter at Santa Cruz. But
it was plain that the opportunity of cultivating the acquaintance and
securing the confidence of Orkeke would thus be thrown away, and with it
the prospect of traversing the country. Gallegos believed that this plan
was fraught with danger, and indeed almost certain destruction; but as
I was immovable, we took an affectionate farewell of each other. He
and all his party had treated me, an utter stranger, with the greatest
kindness, and I bade adieu to them as true comrades. They departed on
their return journey, taking with them the four prisoners, who, however,
are destined to appear again in these pages. These men had undergone
much hardship to obtain the liberty of which they seemed again deprived;
three of them had managed to secure a horse, and walking and riding in
turns had found their way to the Indians. Two of them, Olate and Rosa,
the latter, though a mere boy, with a thoroughly evil and murderous
countenance, were incurably bad; but Meña, a youth of nineteen,
attracted one's sympathy by his handsome frank face and cleanly smart
appearance; the fourth, Arica, had made his way on foot from Punta Arena
to Santa Cruz, without any knowledge of the country, and only guided by
a vague notion of the existence of the settlement to the north. He had
for twenty-seven days followed the line of the sea-coast, subsisting on
shell fish and sea-birds' eggs; the toil and hardships thus undergone
must have been indescribable, and his eventual safe arrival was a
miracle of patient endurance. He brought in news of the loss of a tender
to the schooner, a decked launch, in which Captain Warren and three men
had sailed from Staten Land and been no more heard of; of their fate
there was now little doubt, as he had found her dingy cast up on the
beach, and a piece of the mainsail out of which he had supplied himself
with clothes.

The promising _élève_ of the mission, Sam Slick, also accompanied
the party. Before his departure he offered to give a specimen of his
education by singing a hymn, with a broad hint that grog was a fitting
accompaniment; but as none was forthcoming, we lost the chance of being
edified by his performance.

We watched the cavalcade till it disappeared in the distance on the
upper plains, and then returned to the station, where I settled
myself to pass the ensuing three months of the Patagonian winter. The
settlement or trading station of Santa Cruz consists of only three
houses, built on an island called 'Pabon,' marked as Middle Island, in
Islet Reach, in Fitzroy's chart. It is owned by Don Luiz P. Buena, who
holds by virtue of a grant from the Argentine Government, which has also
conferred on him the commission of captain in the navy, with power
to prevent all foreign sealers from trespassing on the valuable seal
fisheries on the coast. The island is about a mile and a half long, and
has an average breadth of some 350 yards. Access is obtained from the
south shore by a ford, about fifty yards across, only passable at low
water. The northern channel is wider and deeper, and the swiftness of
the current renders it impassable save by a boat, which is moored ready
to ferry over Indians desirous of trading, and is also useful for
bringing wood for fuel, which is not obtainable on the island. About a
hundred yards from the ford stands the principal house, substantially
built of bricks, with tiled roof, containing three rooms, and a sort of
porch to shelter a nine-pounder, commanding the entrance. It is further
defended by a stockade, over which floats the Argentine flag, and
beyond it a fosse, which is filled with water by the spring tides. The
object of these fortifications is to afford protection in case of the
Indians proving troublesome when under the influence of rum. Though
Mr. Clarke narrated some queer scenes he had witnessed, his excellent
management had hitherto obviated any danger, and the fairness of his
dealings with them had secured their friendship, a regular tariff with
equitable prices having been fixed, and scrupulously adhered to, by
which their barter of ostrich feathers and peltries was regulated; and
although they are keen bargainers, often spending two or three hours in
debating the price to be given, they appreciated the fairness with which
they were treated. A second house was situated about fifty yards off,
and being generally used as a store, bore the name of the Almacen: at
this time being empty, one room served as a sleeping-place for some
of the men, and the other had been given up for the accommodation of
Casimiro and his family. A third house, which stood at the eastern end
of the island, was unoccupied. Near it a small plot had been tilled, and
potatoes, turnips, and other vegetables had been successfully raised.
At the time of my visit no corn had been tried, but a subsequent
experimental sowing of one and a half fanegas[2] gave a field, though
little pains were bestowed on the crop, of twenty fanegas. As the lower
part of the island is liable to be overflowed at high springs, a ditch
had been cut across to drain off the water, and there was consequently
no lack of irrigation. The ground was covered with stunted bushes, and
the small spike-thorn round thistle, and coarse grass. The few sheep
appeared to thrive well, but decreased very sensibly in number during
the winter, as on days when game was scarce one fell a victim to the
ravenous appetite engendered by the keen air of Patagonia. A numerous
troop of horses grazed on the mainland, in a tract below the Southern
Barranca, called the 'Potrero,' where the grass, though coarse, grew in
rank luxuriance. When wanted for hunting, the entire stud was brought
across the river in the morning and driven into the corral; but
ordinarily one alone was kept on the island ready for emergencies.

  [2] A fanega contains 100 lbs.

[Illustration: STATION ON PABON ISLAND, RIO SANTA CRUZ.]

It should be mentioned that a small stock of cattle, and also some pigs,
had been imported; these, however, being necessarily left to graze on
the mainland, had wandered, and become wild; the cattle probably falling
victims to the Indian hunters; but the pigs will no doubt multiply,
and become the founders of a race of hogs, destined hereafter to
add pig-sticking to the amusements of the future settlers or of the
wandering Tehuelches.

Above the island of Pabon there are several smaller islets, but as they
are liable to be overflowed by the highest tides, they cannot, without
artificial drainage, be made available for tillage. From one which had
been occupied and tilled with root-crops, we obtained a quantity of
well-grown turnips. It was a singular mistake of the Spaniards to form a
settlement at Port St. Julian and overlook the far superior advantages
presented by Santa Cruz. The plains and islands of the latter present
good grazing grounds and tillage lands, as well as a site for a town
secure from sudden Indian surprises; and as regards fitness for a
shipping station, there is no comparison between the two localities,
as ships can be beached at Santa Cruz in a sheltered place with the
flood-tide; while the timber, in search of which Viedma made his
expedition, was to be had in abundance by ascending the river. At the
present time the knowledge of the navigation of the Straits would make
it much easier and cheaper to import timber from Punta Arena than to
send lumberers into the Cordillera and raft the timber down to Santa
Cruz.

Near the potrero, on the southern shore, there is a natural salt lake or
salina, which must have been overlooked by the Beagle expedition, as Mr.
Darwin fixes the southern limits of salinas at Port St. Julian. In the
summer, and until the winter rains and snow set in, an inexhaustible
supply of excellent salt can be obtained. It is at present worked only
to furnish, besides the salt for home use, what is required for the
annual sealing fishery; but if labour were more abundant, the salt
would be found to be a valuable article of export to the Falkland
Islands; the salina being situated less than half a mile from the beach,
where there is good anchorage.

The river also yields abundant supplies of fish--a species of bass and
others--which when cured keep well: some which had been cured over
a year proved excellent. These might be profitably exported to Rio
Janeiro, &c., where cured fish are always in demand.

Notwithstanding these natural advantages, Santa Cruz could hardly at
this period be considered a settlement. Subsequently to my visit, two
Frenchmen from Buenos Ayres proposed to try sheep farming in the valley,
but with what result I have not heard. As already mentioned, the station
existed as a depôt for sealing, and as a trading post, to which the
Tehuelches resorted to exchange their ostrich feathers, and puma,
guanaco, and ostrich skins, for tobacco, sugar, ammunition, and above
all, rum. There was little or no trade going on during the absence of
the schooner, as all the stores had been exhausted; but after the summer
campaign some of the Tehuelches invariably resort thither, and the
vicinity has always been a favourite winter quarters. The missionaries,
Messrs. Schmid and Hart, endeavoured to avail themselves of this
opportunity for essaying the conversion and civilisation of the Indians.
They resided for some time in 1863 at a spot near Weddell Bluff,
about ten miles from the mouth of the river. To quote Mr. Sterling's
description, the station was at the mouth of a valley which 'retreats
towards the south-west for a considerable distance inland; a stream of
pure water flows perennially through it, and a broad belt of grass,
offering fine pasture for cattle, gives a cheerful, fertile aspect to
the low land; the hills on either side are intersected with ravines, or
lift up their bronzed faces out of some intervening dale, and refresh
the air with the aroma of shrubs and plants growing everywhere about
them.'

This was written after a visit in the summer month of January, and
the picture drawn presents the landscape in its fairest colours; very
different from its bleak aspect as viewed by myself in the winter. This
valley still bears the name of Los Misionarios, but this is the only
existing trace of their settlement. Mr. Schmid, however, during his
sojourn and journeys with a party of the Indians, compiled a vocabulary
of the Tsoneca language, as spoken by the southern Tehuelches. Their
plan for establishing trade at Santa Cruz, in order to secure the
regular visits of the Indians, was not approved of by the managers
of the mission, and they were obliged to abandon the scene of their
praiseworthy but unsuccessful efforts--to instruct at least 'the little
bright-faced Patagonian children,' of whom they speak in their journals
with warm affection.

The counter attractions of rum supplied by a trader who visited the
river were felt by Mr. Schmid to be very destructive of his influence,
but it cannot be doubted that their store, if established, would have
had no chance against any rival that supplied rum to his customers; for
though there are many exceptions, the Indians too eagerly expend the
spoils of their hunting and industry in liquor. Their wives, however,
when they accompany them, take care to manage their business with
discretion, and reserve sufficient stock to barter for more useful and
innocent luxuries as well as necessaries. There is no doubt that in
the event of the future development of this settlement, it might serve
as a _point d'appui_ to raise the Tehuelches to the level of a more
cultivated and settled mode of existence; but speculations on this point
are not within my province, and it is time to introduce the members
of the party with whom my winter was agreeably spent on the island of
Pabon. With Don Luiz P. Buena and his amiable and accomplished señora
I subsequently made acquaintance, which ripened into friendship; but
though his guest, I was at present personally unknown to him. In his
absence, his representative, Mr. Clarke, who, as already mentioned, was
an old acquaintance, did all he could to make me feel at home. He was a
handsome young fellow of twenty-five, and an excellent specimen of
the versatile and cosmopolitan New Englander, 'raised' in Salem,
Massachusetts, where he had been brought up as a builder, though he
afterwards 'shipped himself on board of a ship.' In his nautical life he
had been mate of the Snow Squall, in a homeward voyage from Shanghai,
when she was chased off the Cape of Good Hope by the Alabama, and but
for the pluck of the captain and crew, and the wonderful sailing powers
of the craft, another item would have been added to Mr. Adams's 'little
bill.' As it was, the beautiful vessel fairly outsailed the swift
steamer. The steadiness of the crew, and their well-deserved attachment
to the captain, were most strongly proved on this occasion. As there was
no alternative between putting in for water at St. Helena--where it was
too probable the Alabama would pounce upon the prize--and running home
upon half a pint per diem each man, the captain left it to the crew to
decide, and they chose the latter course.

Mr. Clarke had spent three months travelling and hunting in company
with the Tehuelches, which had made him a most expert hand with lazo
or bolas, and well acquainted with the Indian character; and it was
pleasant to hear that he entertained a very high opinion of their
intelligence and generous dispositions. He treated them with fairness
and considerate kindness, and they repaid him by confidence and
friendship.

Five other _employés_ made up the rest of our party. No social
distinctions, however, prevailed, and the inhabitants of Pabon lived
in pleasant equality. The charge of the dogs and horses, and the duty
of supplying meat, devolved on two: Gonzalez, a gaucho, a native
of Patagones, who was as much at home in the schooner on a sealing
excursion, as in the saddle balling an ostrich; and Juan Isidoro, a
swarthy little man whose sparkling black eyes told of his Indian blood,
a native of Santiago del Estero; he had been sent as a soldier to
Rio Negro, whence he had managed to desert, and make his way with
Orkeke's Indians to the settlement. Next comes Juan Chileno, a bright,
fresh-complexioned youth of nineteen years, to look at whom was
refreshing, after the swarthy and weather-beaten physiognomies of the
others. Then Antonio, a Portuguese, by turns gaucho, whaler, or sealer,
always ready with a song or a merry jest, and on occasion equally quick
with his knife. Holstein furnished the last, but by no means least
important; a strong-built, good-natured, rather stupid fellow, generally
selected as the butt of the rest, who always styled him 'El Cookè,' a
sobriquet earned by his many voyages in that capacity on board various
ships. Curiously enough he proved to possess information on a topic to
me of great interest, as he had been one of a party which, about a year
previous to my visit, had ascended the river Santa Cruz to its source.
The expedition was organised by an American well acquainted with the
Californian mining, who proposed to explore the mineral resources of the
valley. Unfortunately, during the ascent of the river, a quarrel broke
out, and the American left the others, and found his way alone to the
Indians, thence returning to Santa Cruz. The loss of the only man
capable of scientific observation rendered their journey almost useless;
still the party proceeded, and about midsummer reached the lake, near
which they remained some days, but were unable to penetrate the thick
forests beyond its shores. In the valley they found meat tins and other
traces of Fitzroy's expedition. El Cookè described the river as running
from the lake in many small streams, and flowing over a rocky bed.
The lake, which was covered with wild fowl, had floating ice upon it,
and large glaciers were visible in the neighbouring mountains, while
the weather experienced was cold, with continuous drizzling rain.
His account confirmed my own conjectures as to the cause of the great
difference between the periods of the highest floods in the Rio
Gallegos, which is at its height in December and January, and the Santa
Cruz, which is then at its lowest. This is owing to the lateness of the
period at which the ice breaks up in the lake Viedma, situated, as it
probably is, on a high plateau. About the lake the explorers found
traces of herds of large deer, and always in close proximity those of a
large fox or wolf, but they did not succeed in killing any. A specimen
of the only mineral brought back appeared to be iron pyrites embedded in
quartz. The journey from the lake to the settlement would require eleven
days for baggage horses, but could be performed by horsemen within four.
Of course the information was not too clear or reliable, but El Cookè,
though not brilliant, seemed to possess the Northern quality of telling
the truth, by the absence of which the Southern and Indian natures are,
to say the least of it, often characterised. El Cookè was fond of hard
work, and his greatest enjoyment was to set out in search of fuel, and
lay on with his axe in a way that would have done honour to a Canadian
lumberer, but was sadly thrown away on the incense bushes of Santa Cruz.

All these men, who had drifted together from various quarters, and, if
truth be told, had all 'run,' for obvious reasons, from their own homes,
worked by turns at hunting, trading, sealing, and raising salt from
the Salina. They received a fixed salary, which, however, generally
proved to be balanced by an account with the store for clothes, &c. In
sealing expeditions all went shares, like our own mackerel and herring
fishermen; while for working at the Salina, extra pay was given and well
earned, especially at this time, since it involved sleeping out in the
open for several successive nights, and that in a Patagonian May. Such
were the companions of my residence at Pabon, besides whom more than
a score of dogs of all sorts slept anyhow and anywhere, and followed
anybody, giving their masters the preference.

A short time after our arrival, Mr. Clarke took stock of the stores
of provision, which could not be replenished until the return of the
schooner. The result was that the amount of biscuits and sugar was
found to be about equal to a month's consumption. These articles were
accordingly divided into equal portions, and each man received his
share, to husband or improvidently use, according to his bent. There was
abundance of coffee, black beans, tobacco, and maize, which accordingly
were used at discretion. The next thing was to accumulate a good stock
of fuel before the snow should render it difficult, if not impossible,
to transport it.

Every Sunday all hands except one--the cook of the week--left on guard,
went hunting, and, as occasion required, during the week, the gauchos
would proceed to supply the larder with guanaco or ostrich, the
latter being, however, rare. Idleness was unknown; when not hunting,
wood-cutting, or salt-raising, manufactures were the order of the day.
We picked stones and worked them round for bolas, and covered them
with the hide stripped from the hock of the guanaco, the soga or thong
connecting the balls being made from the skin of the neck, the method
of obtaining it being as follows:--The head having been cut off, and an
incision made just above the shoulder, the skin is dragged off in one
piece; and after the wool has been picked off, is softened by hand and
carefully cut into strips, which are closely plaited. Of this leather we
also made serviceable bridles, lazos, stirrup-leathers, and, in fact,
horse-gear generally. Sometimes we would have a fit of making pipes,
and all hands would be busy sawing out wood or hard at work boring the
bowls; at others, spurs were the rage, made by the simple Indian method
of sticking sharpened nails into two pieces of wood, secured together
by thongs fastened under the foot and round the leg; or again, we would
work silver, and come out with our knife-sheaths glittering with studs.
On non-hunting days, I invariably practised the use of the bolas, and
caught almost every shrub on the island.

The evenings were passed in playing the American game of brag. Cash
being unknown, and no one being disposed to risk the loss of his gear,
the stakes were simply so many black beans to a box of matches; and
as much excitement prevailed as if each bean or perota had been a
five-dollar piece.

Both in our hunting parties and in the house which he had been
allowed to occupy, though he occasionally visited the camp on the
Chico, I sedulously cultivated the acquaintance of Casimiro. Both the
missionaries and Her Majesty's surveyors have made frequent, and often
by no means honourable, mention of this Indian, who has always evinced a
wish to conciliate the friendship of the English visitors to Patagonia.
His history, as I learned it from himself, was a very curious one, and
aptly illustrates the conflicting claims of Chilians and Argentines, and
the confused politics of the Indians themselves, his father having been
killed in an engagement with the Araucanian or Manzaneros Indians. His
mother was a Tehuelche: being an inveterate drunkard, whilst visiting
the settlements of Rio Negro she bartered the child for a cask of rum to
the governor of the fort, a Frenchman named Viba, who was connected
with the slave-trade, for at that period Indians seem to have been made
slaves of as well as blacks. Viba had Casimiro christened--whence his
name Casimiro Viba--and brought up at the Estancia, or sheep-farm, where
he learnt to speak Spanish fluently. When thirteen years old he ran away
and rejoined the Tehuelches Indians, with whom he remained in obscurity
for some years, until being in the Southern district, near the Chilian
colony of Port Famine, he gained the friendship of one Santorin, a
native of Patagones, who had been taken captive by the Indians, but
having adopted their manners and customs, and marrying one of the tribe,
had risen to the position of a chief. Together these two performed
a voyage to Chili, to negotiate with the Government in some matters
regarding the protection of Port Famine from Indian raids. Santorin died
during the voyage, but Casimiro was well received at Santiago by the
then President, Señor Bulnés,[3] loaded with honours, and given the
rank, pay, and rations of captain in the army. He then returned to Port
Famine, where he resided, off and on, for some time. By his own account,
he was absent on a hunting excursion when the _émeute_ took place which
resulted in the destruction of the colony. The old wandering habits
appeared to have taken possession of him, for he subsequently returned
to the Rio Negro, and having entered the service of the Buenos Ayrean
Government, again proceeded to the South. During this time he resided
occasionally with the missionaries, during their journey in the South,
and at their station at Santa Cruz, and entrusted to them his two sons
for the purpose of education. The missionaries soon discovered that his
objects were purely selfish, and that he had no idea of allowing others
to participate in the advantages they could offer; and I am afraid that
the labour and cost bestowed on the boys were thrown away, as neither
of them appeared to have profited much by their chances. Sam, indeed,
could still sing a hymn if there were grog to the fore, and had a lively
recollection of material advantages, often saying, 'He was good man,
give me gun,' &c. But the youngest, 'Graviel,' who also understood
a little English, was one of the laziest of the lazy, and had very
undefined notions as to _meum_ and _tuum_, as personal experience
taught me.

  [3] Casimiro gave the name as 'Bourne.'

In 1865 Casimiro made a voyage to Buenos Ayres, where the Government
on this occasion recognised him as head chief of the Tehuelches, and
assigned him the rank and pay of Lieut.-Colonel in the Argentine Army.
He was then despatched, in company with an Argentine named Mendoza, to
form a settlement at Gregorio Bay. They travelled by land as far as
Santa Cruz, at which place Mendoza disappeared, being supposed to have
lost himself, but in reality having been killed by an Indian, jealousy
being, I believe, the cause of the murder. With his right-hand man gone,
Casimiro abandoned himself to drinking, a habit which, as Mr. Cunningham
mentions, he had before acquired--perhaps by hereditary development--and
ultimately became reduced to the state of poverty in which I found him,
owning but two horses for himself, his wife, daughter, and son, with
hardly any gear. Indeed, he would have been reduced to great straits but
for the kindness of Don Luiz and Mr. Clarke, who, for old acquaintance
sake, helped him as much as possible; though his habitual drunkenness
made it useless to give him anything valuable whilst there was liquor to
be had, as he would exchange anything for drink. As it was my object to
have a friend in camp, I made friends with him, and tried to induce him
to go north to the Rio Negro, which he at length agreed to do, although
he was in great fear of getting into trouble about the loss or death of
Mendoza. This man when sober was quick and intelligent, and a shrewd
politician. His extensive connections by marriage with all the chiefs,
including Rouke and Calficura, gave him considerable influence. He was
also an expert worker in various Indian arts, such as making saddles,
pipes, spurs, lazos, and other gear. He was a powerfully built man,
standing fully six feet in his potro boots, with a not unpleasing
expression of face, although he had a scar or two which did not add
to his beauty. Of his personal bravery ample proof will afterwards be
given; but, like all drunkards, he was uncertain and not to be depended
on. This veritable old Blue Beard informed me that he had been married
six times; certainly, if all his wives were of the appearance and
disposition of his last venture, it is not to be wondered at if he
disposed of the former ones; for an uglier, dirtier, more contumacious
old hag never burdened the earth with her weight, owing probably to
which latter quality, or quantity, she never, if she could possibly help
it, quitted her room. Early in June an Indian, known in Santa Cruz as El
Sourdo, or the left-handed man, came across the river and pitched his
toldo on the island. He was the husband of two wives, who lived together
in perfect felicity and took care of one another's children. This Indian
was, as most of them are, very ingenious in working wood and silver, and
was a good addition to our hunting parties; he also quickly learned to
play at brag. Casimiro would never descend from his lofty pinnacle of
self-importance so far as to enter the kitchen when the general revels
were held, but occasionally joined Mr. Clarke and myself at supper and
sat telling stories for an hour or two.

       *       *       *       *       *

The sketch of our life at Pabon would be very incomplete without asking
the reader to accompany us on a hunting excursion; so I will describe
one which took place after El Sourdo had arrived on the island. Game had
become very scarce in our immediate vicinity, and our only farinaceous
food was black beans varied by maize, which was too troublesome in the
preparation to be much used. The meat went wonderfully quickly, so we
determined to extend the sphere of the hunting a little more a-field.
Accordingly, one fine frosty morning at daylight, the horses were
brought up, caught, and saddled; mantles and spurs donned, and eight of
us, including the two Indians, Casimiro and El Sourdo, set off to make a
circle, i.e. enclose and drive an area of land on the southern shore of
the river, finishing at the Missionaries' Valley. Casimiro and Gonzalez
accordingly started, and the remainder followed in turn. During our
drive down, one guanaco was captured by El Sourdo and Isidoro, and on
our arrival near the valley of Los Misionarios I chased a guanaco, but,
being without dogs and a tyro with the bolas, failed to capture him.
However, on rejoining my companions, who had now finished the circle,
I found that they had only killed one ostrich, which, through the
carelessness of some of the party, the dogs had mauled to such an extent
as to render the greater part of the meat unserviceable. The day had
been unusually warm, without any wind. Though a bank of white clouds on
the horizon seemed to threaten snow, it was agreed to camp out and try
our chance of getting a good supply of meat on the following day; so we
proceeded to a sheltered place in the valley, and bivouacked under the
lee of a big incense bush, while the horses were turned loose, and a
fire was made, on which the remains of the ostrich were soon cooking
under the master hand of Casimiro. After supper, which was rather
stinted in quantity, we smoked a pipe and lay down to sleep. About three
I woke up, feeling, as I thought, a heavy weight pressing on my mantle,
and found that above two inches of snow had fallen and that it was still
snowing. At daylight it came on to rain, but quickly changed to snow
again; so we made a fire and waited for an hour to see if the weather
would clear. At last, on a gleam of sickly sunshine appearing, we
proceeded to arrange the circle, Casimiro starting first. Emerging from
the valley and ascending to the high pampa, we met a terrific gale of
wind from the south, driving before it small snow in freezing blasts;
but two ostriches jumped up from behind a bush, and Mr. Clarke balled
one of them with great dexterity. This was very cheering, as we were all
very hungry. But, as it was impossible to face the driving sleet and
wind, which prevented us from seeing ten yards before us, we adjourned
to the valley, leaving Casimiro, who was not visible, to his own
pursuits. Suddenly El Sourdo discovered smoke behind a clump of trees,
and, to our great delight, there was our friend before a good fire,
nicely sheltered from snow and wind, within an arbour neatly cut out
of a bush. We adjourned to the fire and had breakfast; invigorated by
which, and encouraged by a lull in the storm, we started off to renew
the chase, but soon got separated by the thick snow-storm. Mr. Clarke,
El Sourdo, Gonzalez, and myself, who were together, came close upon a
herd of guanaco, making for the coast to escape the gale. The dogs gave
chase and killed some, others were balled; in fact a regular slaughter
took place, and eight or ten carcases were soon lying on the plain. Now
came the tedious job of cutting up. I found myself standing alone by a
dead guanaco, none of the others being visible, though not fifty yards
distant. I proceeded as best I could to arrange the meat, and was about
half through the task, with fingers nearly frozen, when I discovered Mr.
Clarke and El Sourdo, and shortly after it cleared up, and the remainder
of our party, all loaded with meat, arrived. Thus supplied, we turned
our faces homewards, and arrived at Santa Cruz a little before sundown,
where a steaming kettle of coffee soon dispelled our cold and put us
into good spirits.

Mr. Darwin and Admiral Fitzroy have thoroughly described the
configuration of the Valley of Santa Cruz and its surroundings, so
that a lengthened attempt to portray it is not necessary. I would
particularly refer the reader to the accurate and picturesque
description by the former of the bench formation which causes the
western part of the environs of the river to present the appearance of
the shores of former successive estuaries--of a vast river or fiord.

Near the settlement the ascent of the Southern Barranca immediately
leads to a level plain extending for the space of a couple of miles;
then there is another rise of perhaps fifty feet, and another plain,
which extends for about the space of a league to a range of successive
ridges, which we called the Blue Hills from their peculiar appearance on
clear days. These, eastwards, lose their elevations, and merge into the
undulations of the high Pampa and a rolling cheerless waste of stones,
coarse grass, and incense bushes; its uneven surface often traversed by
ravines running in various directions. Amongst these hills there is a
large lagoon which Casimiro informed me he used to visit whilst residing
with the missionaries for the purpose of procuring wild fowl, of which
there were then great numbers, but they had latterly given up this
resort. There are other lagoons scattered at intervals in the
before-mentioned plains, which, during the winter, were frozen, and
the beautifully smooth ice often caused Mr. Clarke and myself to long
for a pair of skates; indeed, we tried to manufacture a pair, but
without success.

Towards the sea coast from the Blue Hills the slope appears gradual,
until nearing the coast, when the plain is intersected by gullies and
deep fertile valleys, which render hunting very tedious work, as it is
necessary to trust almost entirely to the dogs. Game abounds in this
direction, especially during the winter. We made numerous excursions up
river, generally staying away from the settlement three or four days,
our favourite rendezvous being a place about sixty miles distant, called
'Chickrookaik,' marked by Fitzroy as an Indian Ford or Pass of the river
Santa Cruz, which statement both El Sourdo and Casimiro confirmed. At
this point the river narrows considerably, and on the south side there
are steep cliffs almost overhanging the water, a cave in which cliffs
was always a sure find for a puma. Both above and below this point are
large wide plains extending from the 'banks' or cliffs to the river,
which may easily be encircled; and the game being hemmed in between the
horsemen and the river are readily captured. Sometimes the ostriches
take to the water, but in the winter this saves trouble, as their legs
get frozen, and on landing they are unable to move. We made an excursion
on one occasion some miles higher up the river, and found abundance of
game. We had previously on our road had good luck, but, as is often the
custom, left the slain animals concealed in bushes, with a poncho or
something over them. During the interval of our absence severe weather
set in, and on returning to examine our _caches_ the foxes and birds
of prey had accounted for the meat. The foxes are a great trouble to
the hunters, as, frequently, whilst they are encircling the herds of
guanaco, and taking the greatest care to keep out of sight, one of these
brutes will jump up, the dogs give chase, and then good-bye to all
chance of sport. Fitzroy remarked the number of guanaco bones found in
his ascent of the river Santa Cruz, which appear to have puzzled him,
but the cause is not far to seek. During the very severe winters which
occur I believe about once in three years, these animals, finding no
pasture on the high lands, which are covered with snow, are necessarily
driven down to the plains fringing the river, where they die from
starvation. There is also a disease prevalent amongst them something
similar to scab in sheep. On one occasion a hunting party killed ten
guanacos, all of which were scabby, or, as we called it, 'sanoso;' and,
consequently, unfit for food. Mr. Clarke told me that after one severe
winter he found ostriches lying in heaps, dead under the bushes, and
also guanacos. The difficulty of getting the horses across the swift and
deep stream, with its banks encumbered by ice, prevented us from making
frequent excursions to the northern side of the river. A level plain
extends from the banks for about a mile, bounded by a chain of irregular
hills; near the foot of these I picked up many specimens of a spiral
shell, apparently a Turritella, which appeared to have been vitrified;
and some were as translucent as glass, and of different colours. Beyond
these hills rolled a succession of uneven plains diversified by ridges
and hills; the general slope of the ground being apparently from west to
east, and the hills towards the west often assumed the form of abrupt
lofty cliffs. Near a laguna at the foot of a cliff a hundred feet high
I found boulders incrusted with sulphate of iron, such as had been
pointed out to me in the Falklands, and numerous oyster shells and other
marine shells occurred in various localities. There are no streams, but
frequent lagoons in the hollows, and surrounded by a luxuriant growth of
incense bushes. The unbroken plains abound in round thistle, califate,
and the curious shrub called 'ratstail,' from the appearance of its
twigs when the thick bark is pulled off. When burned it emits a dense
black resinous smoke. To the north the horizon is bounded by a lofty
range of hills which form the barrier of the valley of the Rio Chico,
about sixty miles distant. These northern hills abounded with puma, some
of which, killed in our hunts, were of unusual size, measuring fully six
feet exclusive of the tail, which is generally half the length of the
body. They are, of course, most numerous where the herds of guanaco and
the ostriches abound; in the southern part of Patagonia their colour is
more of a greyish-brown than that of the species found in the Argentine
Provinces. These 'Leones,' as they are universally called in South
America, always appeared to me to be the most cat-like of all the
felidæ. They are very timid, always running from a man on horseback,
and, by day at least, from a pedestrian; they run for a short distance
in a series of long bounds, at great speed, but soon tire and stand at
bay behind or in the midst of a bush, and sitting upon their haunches,
spit and swear just like a monstrous tabby; sometimes endeavouring
to scratch with their formidable claws, but rarely springing at the
pursuer. Mr. Clarke on one occasion had his mantle torn off in this
manner. At another time, when hunting in the vicinity of Santa Cruz,
I observed from a distance Gonzalez hacking with his knife at a big
incense bush, and, on reaching the spot, found him occupied in clearing
away branches to allow him to knock a huge puma on the head with his
bolas. He was dismounted and attended by his dogs, which bayed the
animal. Still, had the puma not been a cur, he could doubtless have
sprung out and killed or severely wounded the gaucho. The Indians affirm
that the puma will attack a single man alone and on foot, and, indeed,
subsequently, an example of this came under my notice; however, if a
person should be benighted or lost, he has only to take the precaution
of lighting a fire, which these animals will never approach. They are
most savage in the early part of the spring or breeding season, when,
according to my experience, they are found roaming over the country in
an unsettled manner; they are then also thinner than at other times,
but, like the wild horse, they are generally pretty fat at all times of
the year. The females I saw were sometimes accompanied by two cubs, but
never more. The meat of the puma resembles pork, and is good eating,
though better boiled than roasted, but one or two Indians of my
acquaintance would not touch the meat. The hide is useful either for
saddle-cloths or to make mantles of; and owing to its greasy nature it
can be softened with less trouble than that of the guanaco. In Santa
Cruz one of the men had a pair of trousers made of lion's skin, which
worn with the hair side out was impervious to wet. From the hock and
lower part of the hind legs boots may be constructed similar to those
made from horse hide, and in common use amongst the Indians and also
the gauchos of Plata. These, however, are only made from pumas of large
size, and they wear out very quickly. To kill a puma with a gun is
rather a difficult matter, as, unless the ball enters his skull, or
strikes near the region of the heart, he has as many lives as his
relation the cat. I once put three revolver bullets into one, and
ultimately had recourse to the bolas as a more effective weapon. When
wounded they become very savage, but they are at all times bad customers
for dogs, which they maul in a shocking manner. The Indian dogs are
trained to stand off and bay them, keeping out of range of the claws;
nevertheless they not unfrequently get killed. Perhaps the simplest way
of taking the pumas is to throw a lazo over them, as directly they feel
the noose they lie down as if dead, and are easily despatched. I was
particularly struck, as are all hunters, with their eyes, large, brown,
and beautifully bright, but with a fierce glare that does not appeal to
any feelings of compassion. I shall never forget the expression in
the eyes of one puma, best described by the remark made by one of the
Indians as he reined back his horse, expecting a spring: 'Mira los ojos
del diablo!' ('Look, what devil's eyes!')

One expedition on the northern shore was long remembered and talked of
over the fire; and, indeed, might easily have had a very disastrous
conclusion.

Towards the latter end of July I proposed to Mr. Clarke that we should
proceed on foot, and investigate more closely the bed of fossil shells
mentioned as situated on the hills about a mile from the north bank of
the river. Accordingly, one morning we prepared to cross the river,
and the remainder of the men, hearing of our intentions, volunteered,
together with El Sourdo, to accompany us, and, after having visited the
hills, to organise a hunting circle on foot: we started about sunrise
and crossed the river to the north side, where we secured the boat above
high-water mark; we then all proceeded to the hills, investigated the
beds of fossil shells, and gathered many beautiful specimens. The hunt
was then formed, so many dogs being apportioned to each person, and
the circle being directed to close on a point on the bank of the river
about three or four miles west of the settlement. The ground was very
favourable for our operations, as the dips, or slightly-depressed
valleys, hid us from the view of the game. On emerging on the plain at
different points we saw several guanacos and some ostriches; and those
nearest them slipped their hounds, following on foot at their topmost
speed. Mr. Clarke, Isidoro, El Sourdo, and myself were in the centre,
and killed amongst us two guanacos and an ostrich. Antonio, who was
pointsman, disappeared to the westward with El Cookè, following their
dogs in full chase of a herd of guanacos. Our party lit a fire, ate the
ostrich, and conveyed what meat we thought advisable to take back with
us towards the boat, following the river bank, which was strewn in
many places with cornelians and flint-agates, and occasionally with
fossilised shells. On our arrival at the boat we launched her down the
beach, and, as the wind had by this time risen to a severe gale and the
tide was rapidly ebbing, watched anxiously for the return of the two
defaulters; for the navigation of the river is at no time very easy,
and when the tide is low, even in daylight, nearly impracticable. At
length, after dark, when the squalls of bitterly-cold wind had become
very violent, we saw fires in the distance, and, almost half an hour
afterwards, our missing men appeared, each with a load of meat on his
shoulders. They arrived considerably exhausted, so we gave them a rest,
and then dogs and all got into the boat and we shoved off, Mr. Clarke
steering. We proceeded all right for a few yards, and then stuck on a
bank; after several ineffectual efforts to shove the boat off, we all
jumped into the water and fairly hove her over the bank until the water
was up nearly to our shoulders, and then got in and pulled across. Owing
to the violence of the wind and the strength of the current, we only
succeeded in landing fully three-quarters of a mile from the house;
here we secured the boat, and ran up as fast as we could to get our
now frozen clothes off and a drink of hot coffee. We all agreed that
on another expedition it would be advisable either to encamp on the
northern shore until daylight, or come back early enough to be able
to get across while it was possible to see the banks. But the general
conclusion was, not to go again at all.

The weather in July was intensely cold, the lowest reading of the
thermometer, which was duly examined every morning, being 8°. Washing
our clothes became impossible, as during the process the water froze
and the garments became stiff as boards. When crossing the ford, if the
potro boots of the rider happened, as was not unfrequently the case, to
get filled with water, in a few minutes not only were the boots coated
with ice, but the inside resembled an ice-pail. The effect of the river
ice piled up on the shore by the tides was very striking. Huge floes
had accumulated to the height of fifteen feet and upwards, and, besides
rendering the passage difficult, had buried the carefully-stacked
wood-pile under a small mountain of ice. This was in the comparatively
sheltered valley. On the Pampas, when the fierce south wind blew, as
it almost invariably did, it seemed impossible to face it and live.
One attempt made nearly resulted in Gonzalez being overcome by the
sleep which is a forerunner of death, and the horses of all the party
absolutely could not advance. The snow lay eighteen inches deep, and we
had flattered ourselves that the guanaco and ostrich would prove an easy
prey. _They_ could not run--but _we_ could not chase, and were thankful
to make our way, slowly and laboriously, down from the desolate and
storm-swept Pampas.

The Indians from the Rio Chico occasionally visited us, and Orkeke's
objections to my company were gradually giving way. He had probably
feared that an English Señor would require a considerable amount of
attention, and give constant trouble; but during our intercourse he
found that the stranger could (and did) groom his own horse, and wait
on himself generally, as well as take his part in whatever was being
done, even to sleeping out with no shelter but the ample guanaco mantle.
Casimiro also, according to promise, visited the camp, and argued in my
favour, finally obtaining from the chief a somewhat reluctant permission
for me to join his party. Towards the end of July some of his Indians
had come to the settlement to inform us that the scarcity of game in
their vicinity had compelled them to shift their quarters to a place
higher up the Rio Chico. They anxiously enquired if the schooner had
arrived; we were as eagerly looking for her, but day after day passed,
and the looked-for boat did not appear.

On the 24th of July everybody had gone hunting, except Juan Chileno (who
was cook for the week), and myself, whom a hurt received in my foot
had compelled to remain quiet. I was employed reading a book, 'Charles
Dashwood,' for perhaps the twentieth time, when Juan came in to say that
the hunting party had returned. As it was only ten o'clock, my first
idea was that the schooner had arrived with Don Luiz. However, this was
dispelled by Juan, who had gone out to reconnoitre, rushing in with the
news that ten Chilians had arrived on the south side with twenty-one
horses. Shortly afterwards Mr. Clarke himself came in and corroborated
the intelligence. These men proved to be deserters, who had escaped by
night from Punta Arena, taking with them nearly all the horses in the
corral. They had left on the 2nd of July at 2 A.M. Four of the number
were those previously recaptured in Santa Cruz, who had been kept in
irons and closely confined at night; but by a supreme effort they had
broken their chains, and, together with the others who had everything
arranged outside the cuartel, had effected their escape. The sufferings
these men must have undergone during the twenty-two days' journey over
the Pampas, exposed without shelter to the fierce winds, and sometimes
with the snow up to their horses' girths, must have been something
frightful, and many of them were frost bitten. It was out of the
question for us to receive them, as our own supplies were failing, and
in truth we congratulated ourselves on the horses being secured in the
corral, and anxiously watched the movements of the new comers. The party
during the afternoon succeeded in crossing the river to the north side,
swimming their horses; and disappeared in the direction of the Rio
Chico.

By this time even the kind companionship of Mr. Clarke failed to
reconcile me to the tedious monotony of our life. The game also became
scarcer and scarcer, and the chance of the schooner's coming appeared so
indefinite, that at the beginning of August I began to think it would
be better and more amusing to migrate to the Indian camp, where, at any
rate, plenty of meat was procurable. Accordingly, when the Indians came
over again on a visit on the 7th of August, I bought a horse, or rather
changed away a revolver for one (a three year old, newly broken), and
started in company with Orkeke, Campan, Cayuke, and Tankelow, four
Indians, all of whom were previous acquaintances. Casimiro followed with
his family, taking one of the horses from Santa Cruz to assist in the
transport of his household. This horse was one I had been accustomed to
ride in Santa Cruz, and on arriving at the Indian camp was lent me as
a second horse. Shortly after passing the first hills on the northern
side, our party not being burdened with women and children, started off
at a hand canter, which was kept up until a puma suddenly sprang out of
a bush, when chase was immediately given; he, however, got into a thick
tangle of incense bushes, from which we tried in vain to dislodge him,
and although pelted with stones he lay there spitting like a great cat.
Cayuke wished to fire the bush, but Orkeke would not waste time, so we
mounted and proceeded on our journey. We continued riding over plains
and ridges until about 4 P.M., when we reached a large laguna, close to
which grew some high coarse grass and shrubs; here several ostriches
were started, and one killed by Orkeke. On reaching the range of hills
before described as the southern barrier of the valley of the Rio Chico,
we halted, and shortly had the ostrich cooking on a good fire. We looked
back for Casimiro, but could not see him, so after supper and a smoke
pursued our journey by the soft light of a young moon. As I pointed
it out to my companions they all saluted it by putting their hands to
their heads, at the same time muttering some unintelligible words. This
reminded me of the English custom of turning money at first seeing the
new moon. We rode on until about 9 P.M., when we reached the Indian
encampment. We had been previously puzzled by seeing fires burning a
considerable distance up the valley, and found that our chief, Camillo,
had already marched in that direction. One of the first persons who
accosted me was Arica, and I shortly discovered that all the Chilians
were installed with the Indians in different toldos, which was rather
an unpleasant surprise. I was ushered into Orkeke's toldo with due
ceremony, and we took our seats by the fire. I had brought a bag of
coffee with me, so we set to work and roasted some, after which one of
the Chilians was given the task of pounding it between stones, and we
all drank what the Indians not inappropriately term 'potwater.' Many
Indians crowded in to have a look at us, and amongst others that I
noticed was a remarkably pretty little girl of about thirteen years of
age, a niece of Orkeke's, who took some coffee when offered in a shy
and bashful manner which was delightful to contemplate. In due time we
all retired to rest, and a little before daylight I was woke up by the
melodious singing of an Indian in the next toldo. Shortly afterwards
Orkeke went out and harangued the inmates of the remaining toldos, and
presently the horses were brought up, and most of the men started for
the chase. Snow had fallen during the night, a biting cold wind was
blowing, and Orkeke told me there were very few animals about. I
took this as a hint not to ask for a horse, so contented myself with
sauntering round and examining the encampment. Some of the men were
playing cards, one or two sleeping, whilst the women were almost
universally employed in sewing guanaco mantles. About 3 P.M. Casimiro
arrived with his family, and proceeded to the tent of a southern Indian,
named Crimè, and shortly afterwards the hunting party returned by twos
and threes, but the chase had not been attended with much success. We
passed the evening pleasantly enough, making acquaintance with each
other, and Keoken, the little girl, instructed me in the Indian names of
the various objects about the place. Next morning the order was suddenly
given to march. As this was totally unexpected, and I was not prepared
for departure, I made up my mind to return at once to Santa Cruz, and
fetch my clothes and other small articles; also to take back a colt,
promised by an Indian called 'Tchang' to Mr. Clarke. After some little
difficulty, as the Indians did not wish me to go alone for fear of
getting lost, or any other mischance befalling me, Graviel, the youngest
son of Casimiro, started with me. We had to take the colt, what a sailor
would term, in tow, that is, drag it for some distance with a lazo. As
Graviel's horse was shy, this work fell to my share. Shortly after the
start, rain, or rather sleet, came on, and the contrariness of the brute
at the end of the lazo claiming all my attention, I could not manage to
keep my mantle tight round my shoulders, and getting thoroughly wet, and
losing one of my knives, cursed Tchang, colt and all, freely. After a
short time, however, when well out of sight of the Indians, I cast off
the towing line, and we drove our 'bête noire' before us. We returned by
a different route to the one travelled on the outward journey, guided
a good deal by my pocket compass. Towards nightfall, deceived by the
appearance of a hill, I flattered myself that we were near Santa Cruz.
But, alas! it was still miles away, and we got into fresh difficulties
with our charge, which, being tired, absolutely refused to go down the
hill, and had to be taken 'in tow' again and dragged along, and it must
have been nine or ten before we reached the banks of the river. Here,
after unsaddling our horses, we vainly attempted to kindle a fire, but
everything, like ourselves, was so saturated with snow and wet that
all attempts were fruitless; so, fairly tired out, and without fire or
supper, we laid down under a bush, and, ensconced under our mantles,
were soon in the land of dreams.

Next morning Graviel acted like a dutiful boy for once in his life, and
left in search of the horses. Meanwhile the boat came over, and I was
anxious to expedite matters; so, after splashing barefooted through
several yards of sharp-edged ice on my way to the boat, which had
grounded some distance from the shore, I got over to the island, where
I was not sorry to get something to eat and a fire to warm my frozen
limbs. I packed up my few things, ready for a start later on; but when
the flood-tide made, a heavy gale of wind sprang up, and it was with
great difficulty that the boat could bring over Graviel and the colt.
The cheerful news also awaited me that my horse was missing, and that
Graviel and El Cookè had seen a large puma on the river bank, which had
probably watched in close proximity to us whilst sleeping the night
before. Owing to the gale, it was impossible to cross that evening, so
we made up our minds to stop and sleep on the island.

Next day, my horse not appearing, Mr. Clarke lent me one, sending
Isidoro to bring the horse back, in the event of our not meeting with
the missing steed. About 4 P.M. I bid adieu to my friend, whose kindness
during my stay had proved him a friend indeed. Having shaken hands with
the remainder of the boys, who one and all heartily wished me luck, we
started; and after vainly searching for the missing horse, rode on till
about 10 P.M., when we halted and bivouacked by the side of a laguna.
Next morning early we arrived at the Rio Chico, which we crossed on the
ice, and about 2 P.M. reached the toldos. The men were away hunting, the
smoke of their fires being visible, rising from the higher plains to the
northward. As we had eaten nothing since our supper the night before,
which was furnished by a small skunk (which, though very palatable, was
unfortunately very thin), we were in urgent need of something to eat,
and Arica hastened to cook some guanaco meat on the asador or iron spit.

When the hunters arrived, Orkeke gruffly asked Isidoro what he had
come for, and seemed, naturally enough, the reverse of pleased at the
information of the loss of his horse; and, altogether, the old chief's
behaviour did not seem auspicious; but, without appearing to notice it,
I made myself at home in the toldo, and took up my quarters as one of
the family.




CHAPTER III.

THE RIO CHICO.

  Breaking up of the Camp. -- An Idle Day. -- A Rash Start. -- A
    Dilemma. -- Alone on the Pampa. -- Reunion. -- The Kau or
    Toldo. -- The Domestic Interior. -- The Indian Tribes. -- Three
    Races. -- Order of the March. -- The Hunt. -- Indian Game Law.
    -- Tehuelche Cookery. -- Basaltic Hills. -- An Indian Festival.
    -- My First Tehuelche Ball. -- Mrs. Orkeke's Spill. -- Fording
    Rio Chico. -- A Battle. -- Death of Cuastro. -- Dangerous
    Times. -- Chilian Conspiracy. -- Obsidian Plain and Pass. --
    First Ostrich Eggs. -- Amakaken. -- Lifting the Boulder. -- The
    Devil's Country. -- God's Hill. -- Condors and Dinner. --
    Sunrise on the Cordillera. -- The Plague Herald. -- Gelgel Aik.
    -- Escape from Matrimony. -- Téle. -- Eyes of the Desert. --
    Preparations for War. -- Another Fight. -- Water Tigers. --
    Indian Bravoes. -- Iron Ores. -- Ship Rock. -- Perch Fishing.
    -- Appley-kaik. -- Casimiro's Escape. -- Arrival at Henno.


The morning after we had rejoined the Indian camp was marked by a
general breaking up of the party. Camillo and some others had already
left, and by this time were several marches in advance; Orkeke and
Isidoro started off to Santa Cruz, in search of the lost horse, and
charged with some little commissions for me. Finally, Casimiro and all
the rest broke up their encampment and started, intending to overtake
Camillo. Before leaving, Casimiro came to me, and affecting great
interest in my welfare, confidentially urged me to accompany himself and
live as an inmate of his (or rather Crimè's) toldo, adding that he had
been informed that Orkeke had no real intention of marching northward,
but designed to keep me in his toldo until, by some means or other, he
could possess himself of my arms and ammunition. As I saw no reason to
believe this story, I declined to comply with the proposal of Casimiro,
who, having consoled himself by begging a little coffee, took his
departure, and the encampment was reduced to the toldo, of which I was
to consider myself an inmate, and another, belonging to the only Indians
who remained--Tankelow, Orkeke's brother, and his son, a youth of about
eighteen. Besides these, there were three of the Chilian deserters
who as narrated had escaped from Punta Arena; one was attached to the
household of Tankelow, and the other two to that of Orkeke. One of these
was Arica, already mentioned, who being a very clever worker in hide,
had employed himself in adorning saddles and bridles for the Indians, by
which he had acquired a pretty good stock of gear. The condition of all
three was, however, not enviable. They had lowered themselves at first
by volunteering to discharge the drudgery of fetching wood and water,
and by this time were little better than slaves, obliged to perform
the menial offices, which before had been the task of the women.
These fair creatures, headed by Mrs. Orkeke--a young woman almost six
feet in height, and displaying a corresponding breadth across the
shoulders--employed themselves in cutting out and sewing guanaco
mantles, weaving fillets for the head, and chattering. Tankelow and his
son presently started for a hunt; but as I was not offered a mount, and
deemed it more reasonable to give my only charger a good rest and feed,
I could only accompany them to the river, the frozen surface of which
they crossed, and disappeared up a cañon that led up the Barranca, on
the northern limit of the valley, to the Upper Pampa. Having wistfully
watched them, I reconnoitred the valley of the Rio Chico. Behind me, to
the south-east, the river wound through plains covered with withered
coarse grass, some eighteen inches high, extending on either bank for
several miles till terminated by the rising barranca. Snow lay here
and there in patches on some of the higher ground, and increased the
dreariness of the prospect. About two leagues below the river divided
into two branches, which reunited beyond an island of some extent.
Looking up river in a north-westerly direction, the valley soon narrowed
in, the southern barranca sloping down to within a couple of miles of
our camp; and the view was closed by two remarkable hills resembling
fortresses, which seemed to stand on guard on either side. I made a
slight sketch of the outlines of the view, which forms the background of
the hunting scene.[4] Having strolled back to the toldo, I was greeted
by the women with the usual demand, 'Mon aniwee'--Anglicè, 'Lend us the
pipe,' which was duly charged and handed round. We then sat and watched
the proceedings of Keoken, Tankelow's pretty little daughter, just
budding into womanhood, and a small boy to whom I gave the name of
Captain John, who were amusing themselves by catching and riding some of
the horses which were tamer than the others. The urchins soon grew tired
of their equestrian feats; and, prompted by the spirit of mischief,
which seems ever to haunt children, and especially Indian boys, came
and begged a match of me. Not suspecting their purpose, I gave them the
coveted prize, with which they hurried off in high delight, and in
a very few minutes had set fire to the rank, withered herbage, some
distance off the toldo, but to the windward. The conflagration was at
first unnoticed by us; but at dusk, when Tankelow returned from hunting,
with a supply of meat, it was palpably dangerous. So all hands had to
set to work, and by dint of tearing up the grass, with great trouble we
stopped its progress, which if aided by a breeze in the night would very
probably otherwise have consumed the toldo and endangered the inmates.
Of the culprits no notice was taken, the occurrence being apparently
regarded as all in the day's work. After our supper off guanaco meat,
and a smoke, I turned in, and slept soundly on my Tehuelche bed of hides
and bolsters which had been carefully arranged by the tall hostess.

  [4] Frontispiece.

The next day was got through by having a thorough 'wash' of my clothes,
and cultivating a closer acquaintance with the Chilian Arica, from whom
I obtained a dog in exchange for an old guanaco mantle. But as on the
third day no signs of the return of Orkeke appeared, the inaction became
insupportable, so after the departure on a hunting excursion of Tankelow
and his son, Arica and myself determined to start in pursuit of Casimiro
and his party. As Arica had no horse, it would be necessary for us to
ride and tie; but even thus we could make quick travelling. Accordingly
at 2 P.M. we started, much to the astonishment of the ladies, who
protested that we were certain to lose our way or be killed by the
pumas. One old lady, Orkeke's sister, after trying in vain to dissuade
us, presented me with a slice of charqui, which with a few handfuls of
coffee formed our stock of provisions. That day we did not get very far;
but in the next march, as the track of the Indians was plain, we had
made thirty miles by the time we halted, at nightfall, at a place where
another valley from the northward joined that of the Rio Chico. Our
charqui had barely sufficed for an evening meal, so this day we
satisfied our appetites with a supply of the tuberous roots of a
plant which grows in great quantities in most parts of Patagonia.

[Illustration: HUNTING GUANACO AND OSTRICH, VALLEY OF RIO CHICO.]

The plant, which in its growth resembles very closely the balsam bog
of the Falkland Islands, and might be easily taken for it but for the
absence of the gum, which perhaps was attributable to the quality of the
soil or the season of the year, is easily recognisable by its mass of
tiny green leaflets, and presents the appearance of a small hillock of
earth crowned with delicate moss. By digging down into the heap, one
large and several small tuberous roots are found, which when roasted in
the ashes prove sufficiently palatable to hungry men.

We went to sleep in the open air, rolled up in our guanaco mantles, but
awoke to find that a heavy fall of snow had covered everything a foot
deep, and totally hidden all trail of the Indians. In this dilemma,
quite uncertain which of the two valleys to ascend, and feeling
extremely cold, we first looked out for a place of shelter. This was
afforded us by a little dell or recess in the side of the barranca,
which was thickly overgrown with incense bushes. Betaking ourselves
thither, we speedily had a blazing fire kindled, and while warming our
chilled limbs held a council. It was decided that I should mount, and
proceed to hunt for some food; and then, if the weather moderated, we
could proceed. Arica was left in charge of the fire, with a strong
caution from me to keep it up, and to make as much smoke as possible,
by way of signal to the Indians. After a good deal of difficulty my
horse, which was only half broken, and had a playful way of rearing up
and striking with his forefeet, was curbed with the leathern thong which
forms the Indian bit. I then proceeded to scale the barranca bordering
the river valley, and soon reached the desolate undulations of the
higher Pampa. As a necessary precaution against losing my way, I was
careful to take two or three bearings of conspicuous hills, visible in
the northern limits of the valley; for the monotonous and dreary waste
of the Pampa, strewn with boulders and shingle, alternated with tufts of
grass, presents no track or landmark to guide the wanderer. It was not
long before two or three herds of guanaco were sighted; but the dog,
which had probably during the night foraged for himself, and found some
half-eaten carcase, would not run, and a gallop of some twelve miles
proved fruitless. Just as I was about giving up in despair, I observed a
herd in a hollow, which I was able to approach unobserved. Knowing that
our chance of food for the day depended on success, I warily approached,
and then charged, and to my delight succeeded in entangling one with
the bolas. He was soon despatched; and while I was busily cutting off a
supply of meat, to my sudden surprise an Indian came galloping up. The
newcomer proved to be Tankelow, who was in search of me. He brought word
that Orkeke had found the strayed horse, and had returned; and that the
party were marching as fast as they could to overtake Casimiro. He had
been detached, partly to hunt and partly to find us. In reply to my
inquiries about Arica, he assured me that he was all right, and as there
seemed no reason for disbelieving the statement, we speedily rode back
to the party, and rejoined them on the march; being received with shouts
of laughter by the ladies; but as Arica was nowhere to be seen, I
expressed my determination to ride back in search of him. This, however,
they would not allow, but despatched a mounted Indian and spare horse
to bring him in, and a good piece of meat for his refreshment. We then
proceeded at a brisk rate, and by nightfall reached the camp. Orkeke
at first seemed rather to resent my having started off alone, as if it
argued a want of confidence in him; but his delight at having recovered
his horse assisted him to recover his good humour. Mr. Clarke had sent
me by him some powder, which he _said_ he had lost, and some articles,
such as linen and tobacco, and my presenting them all to him quite did
away with any traces of ill feeling.

The several detachments were all now reunited, and the party mustered
altogether, besides the Chilians and myself, eighteen able-bodied
Tehuelche or Patagonian men, with a proportionate number of women and
children. The most important among the Indians were Orkeke, the actual
cacique, and his brother Tankelow, who possessed the greater number of
horses; Casimiro, whose leadership was still rather _in posse_; Camillo,
Crimè, Cuastro, Cayuke, &c. One more must be mentioned by name, Wáki; a
perfect Hercules in bodily frame, and a thoroughly good-natured fellow,
with whom I became great friends. Of all these men, who were in the camp
by the Rio Chico on August 15, but eight survived to reach the Rio Negro
in the following May; the rest had, at one time or another, been killed
or had died. The secret feuds, which were before long to endanger the
safety of us all, were as yet concealed, and all appeared to be good
friends. The whole were housed in five toldos--by which Spanish name the
Indian kau, or tents, strongly resembling those of our own gipsies, are
known. They were pitched in a sheltered hollow, with their fronts facing
the east, to avoid the bitter violence of the prevalent westerly winds.

Fitzroy has given an excellent description of the toldo; but to
those readers who are unacquainted with it a brief sketch will not be
unacceptable. A row of forked posts about three feet high is driven into
the ground in a slightly slanting position, and a ridge pole laid across
them; in front of these, at a distance of about seven feet, a second
row, six feet high, with a ridge pole; and at the same distance from
them a third row, eight feet high, each slanting a little, but not
at the same angle. A covering made of from forty to fifty full grown
guanaco skins, smeared with a mixture of grease and red ochre, is drawn
over from the rear, and the great drag of the heavy covering straightens
the poles; it is then secured by thongs to the front poles, while hide
curtains fastened between the inner poles partition off the sleeping
places, and the baggage piled round the sides of the tent excludes the
cold blast which penetrates under the edge of the covering. The fire is
kindled in the fore part, or 'mouth of the tent.' In very bad weather,
or when encamped for the winter, an additional covering is secured
to the front poles and brought down over an extra row of short posts,
making all snug. It is a common arrangement for relatives or friends to
combine their toldos, when, instead of bringing down the coverings to
the ground at the side, they are made to overlap, and thus one tent roof
will cover two or three distinct domestic interiors.

The furniture of the toldos consists of one or two bolsters and a horse
hide or two to each sleeping compartment, one to act as a curtain and
the other for bedding. The bolsters are made of old ponchos, or lechus,
otherwise called mandils, woven blankets obtained from the Araucanos,
who are famous for their manufacture, stuffed with guanaco wool and sewn
up with ostrich or guanaco sinews. The bolsters do duty as pillows or as
seats, and help to form the women's saddles on the march. Besides these,
the women all own mandils for their beds. The men occasionally use the
cloths worn under the saddles for seats when the ground is damp, but as
a rule all the inmates of the toldo squat upon Nature's carpet, which
has the advantage of being easily cleaned, for the Tehuelches are very
particular about the cleanliness of the interior of their dwellings,
and a patch of sod accidentally befouled is at once cut out and thrown
outside by the women.

The cooking utensils are simple, consisting of an asador, or iron spit,
for roasting meat, and an occasional iron pot, which serves for boiling
and also for trying out ostrich grease and marrow, which is employed
both for cooking and for mixing with the paint with which the faces of
both sexes are adorned. To these, wooden platters and armadillo shells,
to serve broth in, are sometimes added. The duty of pitching and
arranging the toldos on the halt and striking them for the march,
as well as loading the poles, covering, and furniture on the horses,
devolves entirely upon the women, who display great strength and
dexterity in the work.

About the toldos were innumerable dogs of all sizes and breeds, and
Mrs. Orkeke rejoiced in the possession of two fowls brought from the
settlement, and the all important possession of the Indians, horses,
completed the bustling liveliness of the scene. There were not less than
150 belonging to the various members of the party, Orkeke and Tankelow
owning about forty, besides mares and skittish colts of all ages, which
ran about so that they could not be counted. The reader can imagine what
a scene the march and encampment of such a party presents, and the care
with which the Indians must select their route so as to be sure of game
for themselves and pasture for their animals. Of the dogs and horses in
use by the Tehuelches a fuller description will be given hereafter.

But, to convey a clear understanding of the relations between the tribes
which will be mentioned in the ensuing pages, it is as well here briefly
to distinguish them. In the various maps and accounts of Patagonia
extant, numerous tribes, with different names, are marked and recorded.
These accounts, so far as my observations enabled me to judge, have
arisen from the custom of parties of the tribe combining to travel or
fight under the leadership of a particular chief, and being described by
themselves, when met with, by his name. I have been enabled to recognise
thus the Moluches, who were so called from Malechou, a hereditary chief
of that name; and the celebrated chief Lenketrou united under his
leadership men of several tribes, and is said to have commanded 1,500
men in his great raid on the Rio Negro settlements. There are now
between the Rio Negro and the Straits about 500 fighting men, giving
at a rough estimate a population of about 3,000. The Tehuelches,
or Patagonians proper, exclusive of the Foot Indians of Tierra del
Fuego--who are distinct, though they may be of the same original
stock--are divided into two great tribes, the Northern and Southern.
They speak the same language, but are distinguishable by difference of
accent, and the Southern men appear to be, on an average, taller and
finer men, and are more expert hunters with the bolas. The Northern
range chiefly over the district between the Cordillera and the sea; from
the Rio Negro on the north to the Chupat, occasionally descending as
far as the Santa Cruz River. The Southern occupy the country south of
the Santa Cruz, and migrate as far as Punta Arena. The two divisions,
however, are much intermixed and frequently intermarry; always,
notwithstanding, preserving their clannish division, and taking opposite
sides in the frequent quarrels. Our party was composed in almost equal
parts of both Northern and Southern, and one inmate of our toldo was a
Southern named Hummums, a brother of Mrs. Orkeke. From the Rio Negro as
far as the Chupat, another tribe, speaking a different language, is met
with, having their head-quarters at the Salinas, north of the Rio Negro.
These are the Pampas, called by the Tehuelches 'Penck,' whence I believe
the name Pehuelche has been corrupted. Several clans of this nation
extend over the plains north of Rio Negro, and make frequent inroads
into the Argentine settlements as far as the province of Santa Fé, and
even, I believe, to Cordova and Mendoza. The Pampas of the north of
Patagonia sometimes keep cattle and sheep, but generally subsist by the
chase. A third tribe appear, by their language and physique, to be a
branch of the Araucanos of Chili. These are the people called by the
Tehuelches Chenna, and also the Warriors; they are otherwise known as
Manzaneros, from their head-quarters Las Manzanas, so named from the
groves of apple trees; once a station of the early Jesuit missionaries,
who vainly endeavoured to convert and civilise these tribes. They are
less migratory and more civilised in their habits than the Tehuelches,
and are said to keep herds of cattle and sheep in the sheltered valleys
of the Cordillera, and sometimes till a little maize. I do not know
whether the Jesuit Fathers taught their disciples the art or no, but
from the apples of Las Manzanas these Indians brew a very tolerable
cider, besides making an intoxicating liquor from the beans of the
algarroba. The Tehuelches altogether depend for their stimulants on
the chance supplies of rum procured in trade at the settlements, and
this and disease, small-pox especially, are rapidly diminishing their
numbers.

We remained in our encampment by the Rio Chico for one day, during which
the missing Arica arrived. He was received with very black looks by
Orkeke, who from this time, although still allowing him a place in his
toldo, and a horse to ride, seemed to have conceived a violent aversion
to him, which argued badly for the Chilian's future safety. It appeared
that during my absence he had given way to the desire of providing
something to eat, and had left the fire to burn out, while he foraged
for roots. On returning he saw a huge puma couched by the extinct ashes
of the fire. Just, however, as Arica was about to fire the revolver
which I had lent him, the beast bounded away into the bushes. But as he
was convinced that the puma was close at hand waiting for an opportunity
to attack, he spent several hours on the watch with his revolver ready.
His delight may be imagined when, worn out with want of food and rest,
he was relieved by the arrival of the Indian with the meat and a horse
for him to ride.

The next day we made a short march up the river valley, the caravan of
women and horses, as usual, proceeding along the track, while the men
hunted in the adjacent plains. I was fortunate enough in the hunt to
kill a guanaco and an ostrich, and duly shared them with Casimiro. The
order of march and method of hunting which constitute the daily routine
are as follows: the Cacique, who has the ordering of the marching and
hunting, comes out of his toldo at daylight, sometimes indeed before,
and delivers a loud oration, describing the order of march, the
appointed place of hunting, and the general programme; he then exhorts
the young men to catch and bring up the horses, and be alert and active
in the hunt, enforcing his admonition, by way of a wind up, with a
boastful relation of his own deeds of prowess when he was young.
Sometimes the women, while the chief is haranguing, rekindle or blow
up the embers of the fire and prepare a slight breakfast, but not
invariably. Some cold meat is also occasionally reserved from the
evening meal, and placed in a hide bag to be carried with them on the
march, to be given to the children when they are hungry. But the general
custom for the men is to wait until the day's hunt has supplied fresh
meat. When the Cacique's 'oration'--which is very little attended to--is
over, the young men and boys lazo and bring up the horses, and the women
place on their backs the bolsters of reeds, tied with hide thongs,
mantles, and coloured blankets, which form their saddles; others are
strapping their belts on, or putting their babies into wicker-work
cradles, or rolling up the skins that form the coverings of the toldos,
and placing them and the poles on the baggage-horses; last of all the
small breakers, which are carried on the march, are filled with water.
The women mount by means of a sling round the horses' necks, and sit
astride of their bolster-saddles; their babies--if they possess any--and
their pet dogs are hoisted up, the babies being stowed in the cradles
behind them; then they take their baggage-horses in tow and start off in
single file. The men, who generally wait until all are ready, then drive
the spare horses for a short distance, and having handed them over to
the charge of their wives or daughters, retire to a neighbouring bush,
where a fire is kindled, pipes are lighted, and the hunt commenced in
the following manner:--Two men start off and ride at a gallop round a
certain area of country, varying according to the number of the party,
lighting fires at intervals to mark their track. After the lapse of a
few minutes two others are despatched, and so on until only a few are
left with the cacique. These spread themselves out in a crescent,
closing in and narrowing the circle on a point where those first started
have by this time arrived. The crescent rests on a baseline formed by
the slowly-proceeding line of women, children, and baggage-horses. The
ostriches and herds of guanaco run from the advancing party, but are
checked by the pointsmen, and when the circle is well closed in are
attacked with the bolas, two men frequently chasing the same animal from
different sides. The dogs also assist in the chase, but the Indians are
so quick and expert with the bolas that unless their horses are tired,
or they happen to have gambled away their bolas, the dogs are not much
called into use. Puma are very frequently found in the circles, and
quickly despatched by a blow on the head from a ball. On one occasion I
saw Wáki completely crush, by a single blow, the skull of an unusually
large one. The Indian law of division of the game prevents all disputes,
and is as follows: The man who balls the ostrich leaves it for the
other, who has been chasing with him, to carry or take charge of, and at
the end of the hunt it is divided; the feathers and body from the head
to the breast-bone and one leg belonging to the captor, the remainder to
the assistant. In the case of guanaco, the first takes the best half
in the same manner; the lungs, heart, liver, kidneys, and the fat and
marrow bones are sometimes eaten raw. The Tehuelches also cut out the
fat over the eyes, and the gristly fat between the thigh joints, which
they eat with great gusto, as also the heart and blood of the ostrich.
Owing to the entire absence of farinaceous food, fat becomes a necessary
article of diet, and can be consumed in much larger quantities than
in more civilised countries. That this is not merely owing to the
inclemency of the climate is proved by the appetite for fat which the
gauchos in the Argentine provinces acquire. When the hunt is finished,
and the birds cut up and divided, fires are kindled, and whilst stones
are heating the ostrich is plucked, the wing feathers being carefully
tied together with a piece of sinew. The bird is then laid on its back
and drawn; the legs are carefully skinned down, and the bone taken out,
leaving the skin; the carcase is then separated into two halves, and the
backbone having been extracted from the lower half, and the meat sliced
so as to admit the heated stones laid in between the sections, it is
tied up like a bag, secured by the skin of the legs, with a small bone
thrust through to keep all taut; this is placed on the live embers
of the fire, a light blaze being kindled when it is nearly done to
perfectly roast the outside meat. During the process of cooking it has
to be turned frequently to ensure all parts being thoroughly cooked.
When ready it is taken off the fire, and the top part being cut off and
the stones extracted, the broth and meat are found deliciously cooked.
The party, generally consisting of twos or fours, sit round the dish and
eat the meat, sopping it in the broth. The back part, which consists
nearly altogether of fat (when the ostrich is in good condition), is
then divided, pieces being given to each, and reserved as tid bits for
the women and children. When the head and breast half are to be cooked,
the bone is not extracted, but the wings turned inside and the breast
cavity filled with heated stones, and tied up with half of the skin of
the legs, which have been divided, additional pieces of meat from the
legs having been placed in the breast cavity. The fat of the breast
is divided amongst the party at the fireside, the owner in all cases
reserving none or a very small piece for himself, as the others who
are cooking at the same fire are sure to give him plenty. The cacique
generally receives the largest share, or if he is not present, the
greatest friends of the owner. The wing feathers are carefully taken to
the toldos and stored with others for future trade. The ostrich is most
thoroughly eaten; the gizzard, which is large enough to fill both hands,
being carefully cooked by the insertion of a hot stone and roasted; the
eyes, too, are sucked, and the tripe devoured; but when the birds are
thin they are simply skinned, and the carcase left to the pumas. After
the meal, concluding the hunt, is finished, a pipe is handed round,
saddles are re-adjusted, and the game placed on them, and the party
adjourn to the toldos, which by this time have been pitched and arranged
by the women.

Guanaco are not much killed, unless a long stay in a place is intended,
or an Indian feels inclined for blood, or ostriches, which are always
eaten in preference, are scarce. The meat of the guanaco is, however,
excellent; the haunches are generally what is termed in Spanish
'charqueared,' which means that the meat is cut off in thin slices,
and, after a little salt has been sprinkled over it, is dried in the
sun. When thoroughly dried it is roasted in the ashes, pounded between
two stones, and mixed with ostrich or other grease; this preparation,
like pemmican, is very useful for a man going a long journey, as it
can be carried in a small compass, and a mere handful satisfies the
appetite.

[Illustration: START FROM THE CAMP AT MÔWAISH OR WINDOW HILL.]

It would be tedious to describe every day's march, and the routine of
hunting, as we made our way slowly up the valley of the Rio Chico, which
was still frozen over. The weather was cold, and occasional showers of
snow accompanied the strong piercing westerly winds which blew every
day. The valley sometimes opened out into wide grass-covered plains,
dotted with incense-bushes, then rose again in huge bare ridge and
furrow-like undulations. Occasionally there occurred patches of swampy
ground with frozen lagoons, and here and there open springs, the resort
of numerous waterfowl. The hills on the northern side appeared bare
and rugged, rising abruptly out of irregular forms, while the southern
heights were lower, and presented more of the steep declivities known
as barrancas, interrupted at intervals by high rugged hills of basalt,
often assuming the appearance of ruined castles, closing in at the bends
of the winding river. To one of these--a remarkable hill under which we
were encamped on August 23, about 120 miles from Santa Cruz--I gave the
name of Sierra Ventana, from a window-like opening through its peak; the
Indians called it Môwaish. (See Illustration.) In many places the bases
of these hills were formed entirely of a description of lava, and one
of the Chilians informed me that whilst passing over a ridge, he had
observed several large masses of pure iron: this, however, I was
inclined to disbelieve, as although farther up the country iron ore
exists in large quantities, I only observed in this part a species of
ore similar to that common at Drobak, in Norway.

On one occasion, while marching, we observed smoke in our rear,
which was thought to be caused either by a messenger in search of us
announcing the arrival of the schooner, or else by a party of the
Southern Indians who had some idea of marching north. However, no scout
was sent back to discover the truth, so we remained in ignorance. On the
26th we halted, and encamped by the side of the river in a broad opening
of the valley; here there was a lagoon, not completely frozen, in which
grew a description of flag, of which the root, or rather lower stem, is
eaten by the Indians, and is succulent and juicy, with a pleasant taste.
The boys and girls soon brought a large supply into the toldos. The day
after our arrival in this place, the attainment of the age of puberty
of one of the girls was celebrated according to custom. Early in the
morning the father of the child informed the cacique of the event, the
cacique thereupon officially communicated the intelligence to the acting
doctor or medicine-man, and a considerable shouting was set up, while
the doctor adorned himself with white paint and was bled in the forehead
and arms with a sharp bodkin. The women immediately set to work to sew
a number of 'mandils' together. When the patchwork was finished, it was
taken with pomp and ceremony by a band of young men, who marched round
the poles--already fixed to form a temporary toldo--singing, whilst the
women joined in with the most dismal incantations and howlings. After
marching round several times, the covering was drawn over the poles, and
lances were stuck in front, adorned with bells, streamers, and brass
plates that shook and rattled in the breeze, the whole thing when
erected presenting a very gay appearance (its Indian name literally
meaning 'The pretty house'). The girl was then placed in an inner part
of the tent, where nobody was admitted. After this everybody mounted,
and some were selected to bring up the horses, out of which certain
mares and fillies were chosen, and brought up in front of the showy
toldo, where they were knocked on the head by a ball--thus saving the
blood (which was secured in pots) to be cooked, being considered a great
delicacy. It is a rule amongst the Indians that anyone assisting to take
off the hide of a slaughtered mare is entitled to a piece of meat, but
the flesh was on this occasion distributed pretty equally all round.
Whilst the meat was cooking, Casimiro, who was ruler of the feast,
sent a message for me to come to Crimè's toldo, where I found him busy
working at a saddle, in the construction of which he was, by the way, an
adept. His wife had a large iron pot bubbling on the fire, containing
some of the blood mixed with grease. When the mess was nearly cooked,
we added a little pepper and salt, and commenced the feast. Previous to
this I had felt a sort of repugnance to eating horse, as perhaps most
Englishmen--except, indeed, the professed hippophagists--have; but
hunger overcame all scruples, and I soon acquired quite a taste for this
meat. On this occasion everybody ate where they liked, in their own
toldos. Casimiro informed me, after the meal was concluded, that
there would be a dance in the evening. I looked forward with great
anticipation to this 'small and early,' and shortly saw some of the
women proceed to collect a considerable quantity of firewood, which was
placed outside the tent. Presently, towards dusk, a fire was made, first
outside the sacred precincts. The women all sat down on the grass round
about, but at some distance from the men, who were all seated on the
grass, except four and the musicians. The orchestra consisted of a drum
made by stretching a piece of hide over a bowl, also a sort of wind
instrument formed of the thigh-bone of a guanaco, with holes bored in
it, which is placed to the mouth and played, or with a short bow having
a horsehair string. When all was ready, some of the old hags all the
time singing in their melodious way, the band struck up, and four
Indians, muffled up in blankets, so that their eyes only were visible,
and their heads adorned with ostrich plumes, marched into the ring, and
commenced pacing slowly round the fire, keeping time to the music. After
two or three promenades, the time gradually quickened, until they went
at a sort of trot; and about the fifth round, dancing fast to the music,
they threw away their mantles, and exhibited themselves adorned with
white paint daubed all over their bodies, and each having a girdle of
bells extending from the shoulder to the hip, which jingled in tune to
their steps. The first four consisted of the chiefs Casimiro, Orkeke,
Crimè, and Camillo, who, after dancing with great action (just avoiding
stepping into the fire), and bowing their plumed heads grotesquely on
either side to the beats of the drum, retired for a short time to rest
themselves, after which they appeared again and danced a different
step. When that was over four more appeared, and so on, until everyone,
including the boys, had had a fling. Sometimes, to give greater effect,
the performers carried a bunch of rushes in one hand. About 9 P.M.,
everybody having had enough, Casimiro gave the sign. The band stopped
playing, and all retired to bed. The dancing was not ungraceful, but was
rendered grotesque by the absurd motions of the head. It was strictly
confined to the men, the women being only allowed to look on.

On the second day's march from the scene of my first Indian ball we
crossed a rocky ridge abounding with a description of vesicular lava;
the ridge ran out from the southern limits of the valley and terminated
in precipitous cliffs, round the base of which wound the river. The
surface of the ridge was fissured in many places with deep chasms like
Alpine crevasses, on the brink of one of which my horse stopped just in
time to escape a fall. The caravan had gone a more circuitous route to
take advantage of the lowest and easiest crest. On the other side of the
ridge the valley suddenly spread out to the extent of several miles, and
on the western horizon a line of snowy peaks was visible, their summits
capped with clouds: this was our first view of the Cordillera. The low
ground was cut up by streams and small lakelets of water, formed by the
overflow of a small fork of the river, which glistening in the afternoon
sunshine presented a beautiful silvery appearance, very refreshing
to the eye wearied with alternate gazing on withered grass and black
volcanic rocks. However beautiful to look at, this scene would clearly
prove difficult travelling, so a halt was called, and our course debated
on; ultimately it was resolved to cross the river and encamp on the
northern bank, where the ground was higher and free from floods, so
loads were carefully adjusted, and children transferred to the arms
of the men, to give the women more freedom of action; baggage-horses
were also taken in tow by the young men, and Casimiro and another
volunteering to lead the van and act as pilots, we proceeded to make our
way to the river-bank, which rose by a gradual elevation from the lower
inundated plain. After much floundering about in water-holes, and
various spills, which caused great merriment, especially when Mrs.
Orkeke and all her gear came down by the run, an iron kettle of which
she was very proud clattering down so as to frighten several of the
horses into what threatened to become a general stampede, the bank
was safely reached; the river was swollen high, and its rapid current
running six or seven miles an hour, was bringing down huge sharp-edged
masses of ice. It seemed almost impossible for the women and baggage
animals to cross. However, Orkeke, taking a long pole to sound with, led
the way, and by watching their opportunity to dodge the floating ice,
which cut the horses' and riders' legs cruelly, all got safely over. A
wilder scene could hardly be imagined--dogs howling on the bank fearing
to pass, women singing out to their various friends and relations, and
here and there an adventurous Indian, who scorned to go by the ford
with the rest, disappearing for a second in the river, horse and all,
but ultimately emerging some distance down the stream. The water was
bitterly cold, as may be imagined, and the piercing wind benumbed our
dripping bodies; so on arriving at the north bank, where there were some
small sandy hillocks, we kindled a large fire, and had a warm and a
smoke whilst the women were employed pitching the toldos. It had been
decided to remain here some days and then proceed to the vicinity of the
Cordillera for the purpose of catching wild horses. But, as will be
seen shortly, 'l'homme propose et Dieu dispose.' Looking up towards the
Cordillera from our encampment, the valley appeared to expand a few
miles up into one immense plain, and the Indians informed me that before
reaching the mountains there is a great drop or basin where the wild
horses are found. This was probably, at the period of our visit, a vast
sheet of water from the melting snows. Lake Viedma lies some miles to
the southward from the head of the valley, and I should be inclined to
think that the course of the Rio Chico, which undoubtedly flows from it,
would be found to come from the south to north, and bend easterly at the
head of the valley, where it unites the numerous streams as described by
Viedma in his journey in 1580. I am also inclined to think that Viedma
being taken twice across the Rio Chico mistook the river at the second
crossing for another, which he has marked as the Chalia, a name, by the
way, unknown to the Indians, save as applied to an unsavoury parasite
only too common among them. The following morning, September 2, we were
sitting quietly round the fire discussing a breakfast of boiled ostrich
prepared by the lady of the house, when suddenly the clash of knives was
heard, and we saw two Indians, destitute of mantles, with naked swords
in their hands, run across from Camillo's to Crimè's toldo. In a minute
everything was in an uproar; arms were produced, guns and revolvers
loaded, and some of the Indians equipped themselves in coats of mail,
and others, with the assistance of the women, padded themselves about
the chest and upper part of the body with thick blankets and corconillas
or saddle-cloths. Knowing what was about to happen, the women, and with
them all the Chilian deserters except one, beat a retreat to a safe
distance from the toldos. Having assumed my arms, and feeling thoroughly
mystified as to the real cause of this excitement, I went to Camillo's
toldo, where the scene explained itself. He was lying on his bed dead,
with a frightful gash in his side, having been murdered by Cuastro, one
of the Indians whom we had seen running to Crimè's tents. On issuing
from the toldo Casimiro met me, and asked for a revolver, as he had no
firearms, and I lent him one accordingly. The Indians showed by their
changed countenances all the fury of fight; their very complexions
seemed ghastly, and their eyes glared and rolled, seeming to see blood.
The two opposing parties, the Southern Indians--friends of Crimè, who
was a cousin of Cuastro--and Orkeke's and Casimiro's people or the
Northern party, were soon ranged in open line at some twenty yards
distance from each other. Cuastro was conspicuous by his tunic or 'buff
coat' of hide studded with silver, while his only weapon was a single
sword or rapier. The fight commenced with an irregular discharge of guns
and revolvers, which lasted a few minutes, till some of the Northern or
Orkeke's Indians, led by Casimiro, closed up, and a hand to hand contest
with swords and lances took place, resulting in the death of Cuastro and
the severe wounding of two or three Southern Indians. The Northerns then
drew off to reload, and were about to renew the action, when Tankelow
proposed a truce, which was accepted on the understanding that both
parties were to march at once in the same direction. The women and
children were then recalled from the bushes whither they had retired,
the horses brought up, and the dead buried. The Tehuelches' lance is
entirely different to that of the Araucanos or Pampas, and is only used
when fighting on foot; it consists of a heavy shaft eighteen feet in
length, at the extremity of which a blade is fixed about eighteen inches
long, constituting a most formidable weapon in the hands of an expert
Indian. Cayuke, whom I have before mentioned, in this fight was armed
with the lance, and ran Cuastro through the body, although protected by
his mail and endeavouring to parry the point with a sword. This Cuastro
was a brave man; when dying, with several bullets in his body, and
several lance thrusts, he sprang up to his full height and called out,
'I die as I have lived--no cacique orders me;' his wife then rushed up
to him crying and sobbing, but he fell down dead at the same moment.
Casimiro had a narrow escape; he parried a blow of a sword with what may
be termed the slack part of his mantle, but if the blow had caught him
on the head, as intended, it would have ended his career then and there.
The casualties were a wound in Crimè's leg, and a lance thrust clean
through the thigh of Hummums, a young Indian, who seemed to care very
little about it. The fight originated out of a vendetta between Cuastro
and Camillo, the latter having some years before caused the death of
a member of the family of the former, who had on a previous occasion
endeavoured to avenge it on Camillo, and he had only attached himself
to our party, in company with Crimè, in order to obtain an opportunity
of assassinating Camillo. This Cuastro had been suspected on good
grounds of making away with Mendoza, the Argentine sent from Buenos
Ayres in company with Casimiro, and who mysteriously disappeared; and he
had certainly, when under the influence of rum, at Santa Cruz, murdered
his own wife Juana, a daughter of Casimiro, so that brave as he was he
had richly deserved the fate he met with.

After the obsequies of the dead had been hurriedly performed--a
description of which is reserved for another place--the tents were
struck, and all marched off, the men remaining armed, and each party
travelling separately. Cayuke was sent back some miles to ascertain
if there were any signs of the other Southern Indians, who were half
expected to overtake us; but he returned some hours later with no
intelligence. We marched a few miles up the valley, rather coasting the
northern hills, and encamped by a most beautiful circular spring, the
water bubbling up through pure white sand and forming a tiny brook,
while little fishes darted across in the basin. The Indians still
remained with arms ready to hand--were very silent and ate nothing.
Several of the Northerns came into our toldo towards evening, and
remained a long time conversing by the embers of the fire, and ever
and anon one of the widows of the deceased would break out into a wail
of lamentation, sobbing in the most dismal and melancholy manner, the
lament at times being taken up by some of the older hags.

On the following day Crimè sent for me to dress his leg, imagining, of
course, that I understood surgery; so I washed the wound and bandaged it
with cold water bandages, which appeared to be successfu

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