A Five Years' Residence in Buenos Ayres, During the years 1820 to 1825
by George Thomas Love · English · Gutenberg #42482 · 384,079 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: A Five Years' Residence in Buenos Ayres, During the years 1820 to 1825
Author: George Thomas Love
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Most recently updated: October 23, 2024
Language: English
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A FIVE YEARS' RESIDENCE IN BUENOS AYRES, DURING THE YEARS 1820 TO 1825 ***
A
FIVE YEARS' RESIDENCE
IN
BUENOS AYRES,
DURING THE YEARS 1820 to 1825:
CONTAINING
REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY AND INHABITANTS;
AND A VISIT TO
COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO.
BY AN ENGLISHMAN.
_WITH AN APPENDIX_,
CONTAINING
RULES AND POLICE OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES,
NAVIGATION OF THE RIVER PLATE, &c. &c.
_SECOND EDITION._
LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY G. HEBERT, 88, CHEAPSIDE.
1827.
LONDON
Stirling, Printer, 20 Ironmonger Lane, Cheapside.
PREFACE.
At a time when the rich and fertile provinces of South America are daily
becoming increased objects of commercial consideration--when their
riches and advantages are constantly forming the bases of fresh
speculations--and when, under the security offered to person and
property by the liberal institutions of a free and independent
government, communication with them is every hour becoming more
extended,--an illustration of their local affairs, customs, manners, and
people, cannot but be interesting.
Of these provinces, the one which forms the subject of the following
Remarks is far from being the least important. Without adverting to the
fertility of the soil, and the general healthiness of the climate, the
prospects which Buenos Ayres presents in a mercantile point of view,
forming, as she does, from her situation, the medium of communication
with the whole interior of this vast continent, must ever render her an
object of considerable importance to a commercial nation like England.
Nor is she less a source of interest to the politician and the
philanthropist. To Buenos Ayres is due the credit of setting the noble
example to the other provinces, of bursting asunder the shackles of a
despotic mother-country, whose selfish policy had long immured them
under the deepest veil of ignorance and degradation, debarring them from
any communication with the rest of the world, in order that she might
reap the exclusive advantage of those treasures with which Nature had
enriched them. Nor has Buenos Ayres confined herself to example merely,
but, from the moment of having secured her own independence, she has
never ceased to encourage and assist the other states in throwing off
the same degrading yoke.
It is true, that preceding works have thrown much light on these
countries, and the subjects I have here handled have been treated by
abler pens than mine; but, besides the expensiveness of those works,
which renders them inaccessible to a great class of readers, the subject
is so new, and embraces such a wide field of research, that an abundant
harvest still remains for fresh labourers. Having confined myself to one
portion of this vast territory, I have been able to enter into a minuter
detail of many things that have been cursorily passed over by preceding
writers; and, finally, having resided in the country which is the
subject of these Remarks during the last five years, my means of
observation have been neither few nor limited.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
The Port--Custom-House Regulations 1
Visit of the Health Boat 2
Outer and Inner Roads 3
Pilots 4
Port of Ensenada --
Barraccas --
Navigation of the River Plate --
_Balandras_, or lighters, for lading and unlading vessels --
Carts used for embarking and disembarking --
Packets between Buenos Ayres and Monte Video 5
Climate 6
Diseases 9
Environs of the City --
Alameda, or Public Walk 10
The Beach, crowded with Sailors --
Coffee-Houses and Hotels 11
Public Buildings: The Fort--Consulado--Cabildo--Bank--House
of Representatives--Custom-House--Public
Library--Botanical Museum--Retiro--Residencia 14 to 16
Squares and Streets 16
Houses 17
Churches 18
Theatre 22
Circus 33
FOREIGN RESIDENTS.
British: Merchants, Shopkeepers, Medical Men, &c. 33 to 35
British Commercial Subscription-Room 37
Establishment of Packets from Falmouth 39
Dispute between Captain Willis and the Government 41
Treaty with England 43
English Females at Buenos Ayres 44
Many Englishmen have married Buenos-Ayrean Wives 45
Death of Mr. Dallas, and of Mr. Rowcroft 47
Death of Jack Hall --
Irish Yankies 48
North-American Residents 49
Death of Mr. Rodney 51
Frenchmen 52
Portuguese 53
Germans, Italians, Prussians, &c. 54
NATIVE (OR CREOLE) AND SPANISH INHABITANTS.
Persons, Dispositions, and Manners 55
Compliments of Salutation 57
Practice of giving Flowers to Visitors --
Smoking Segars --
Politeness 58
Yerba, or Tea of Paraguay 59
Time of Meals --
_Siesta_, or Afternoon Nap --
_Tertulias_, or Public Dances 60
Sweetmeats much eaten 61
Etiquette, when walking in public, and in the ball-room --
Dancing 62
Music --
Consulado Musical School-Room 63
Philharmonics, a Musical Subscription Society 64
Mothers watch their Daughters with great strictness --
Marriages take place early 65
Washerwomen on the Beach 66
Treatment of Slaves 67
Superstition of the Negroes 68
Orderly conduct of the lower orders --
Beggars very annoying 69
Savings Bank --
Propensity to Gaming 70
Bathing practised by all Classes --
Dress 71
Females make their own Clothes 74
Travelling --
Value and description of the Horses 75
Arrival of some English Horses in the _Rhoda_ --
Country Waggons 77
Sports and Amusements:--Horse-racing--Sailing--
Cock-fighting--Hunting--Shooting--Fishing 78
Throwing the Lasso --
Annual Fair near the Recolator 79
Provisions: Beef--Mutton--Poultry--Wines--Beer 81 to 85
Vegetables --
Fruit 86
Other Animal and Vegetable Productions --
Population 89
Trade and Manufactures --
Exports 89
Imports--List of Vessels that arrived in 1821, 2, 3, 4 90
Shops in Buenos Ayres very numerous 92
English Manufactures very cheap 93
Currency, &c.--Notes engraved in England 95
Average of Exchange 96
Bank of Buenos Ayres--Funds --
Education and Literature 97
College School--Academy in the Merced Church --
Mrs. Hyne's Seminary --
Many Buenos Ayreans speak and write English 98
College of Stonyhurst, near Liverpool 99
Education of Females --
Variedades et Mensagero de Londres 100
Newspapers published in Buenos Ayres 101
Printing Offices --
Religion 102
Contrast of the Catholic and Protestant faith --
Reception of an Archbishop, who arrived in 1824 --
Times of Public Worship 103
Oration-Time 104
Music of the Masses --
Confession 105
Figures of the Virgin Mary kept in glass cases 106
Priesthood not illiberal --
Friars 107
Suppression of the Monasteries --
Convents for Nuns 111
Religious Processions: St. Rosario, and St. Nicholas 113
Feast of Corpus Christi 113
Observances during Lent--Passion Week--Holy
Thursday--Good Friday--Burning of Judas 113 to 114
Procession of the Holy Ghost 117
Funeral Ceremonies 119
Masses for the repose of the Soul --
Protestant Burying-Ground 120
Police, &c. 121
Assassination very frequent among the lower orders 122
Thieves ingenious 123
Boys about the Theatre-door great thieves 124
Modes of Punishment: Shooting--Public Whipping--
Imprisonment--Working in the Streets, ironed 126
A great increase of crime in 1824 --
First execution for forgery 126
Committals before Trial 127
Law proceedings expensive and tardy --
Passports required to leave Buenos Ayres 128
Army--Punishment of flogging resorted to 130
Bands of Music --
Custom to fire the Fort Guns on the 4th of July, the
Anniversary of Whitelock's Defeat 131
Government, and Public Events 133
Governor and Public Officers--Junta, or Senate 134
Æra of the Independence of Buenos Ayres--Celebration
of its Anniversary--Sports of the day 135
Frequent Political Revolutions in 1820--Rodriguez
appointed Governor 138
Administration of Rivadavia 139
Two persons shot for state offences, in October, 1820 141
Attempt at another Revolution--Execution of Garcia --
Execution of Colonel Peralto and Urien 142
Carrera shot at Mendoza 143
San Martin embarked for England 144
A day set apart for the Funereal Rites of Gen. Belgrano --
Visit of a New-Zealand Chief 145
Dinner on St. Andrew's Day 146
Camden Packet took home the treaty with England 146
Rejoicings for the Victory of Ayacucho --
Arrival of a Brazilian Frigate 148
Opinion of Foreigners with regard to his Majesty
George IV. of England 148
Mr. Canning popular in Buenos Ayres 149
A Triumphal Car paraded through the streets 152
Concluding Remarks --
Great want of population, and consequent insecurity
of the country --
Ravages of the Indians--Four officers detained and murdered
by them, in 1822--Description of the Indians 154
Very little employment for Clerks in Buenos Ayres --
Mechanics and Labourers sure of employment 155
Farming not a profitable concern --
Grazing farms more beneficial --
Emigrants will not find the same comfort as at home 156
French faction at Buenos Ayres --
Contrast between Frenchmen and Englishmen --
Inducements to Emigration 158
Colonia del Sacramento 159
Appendix.--Rules of the Port 167
Anchorage Dues 168
Police of the Port --
Penalties to which those are subject who destroy the
line of Buoys established by Government 169
Instructions for sailing from Buenos Ayres to Monte
Video 170
---- ---- ---- from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres 172
Variation of Depth of Water between the Banks Ortiz
and Chico 174
Positions of the Ten Buoys in the River Plate 175
REMARKS DURING _A FIVE YEARS' RESIDENCE_ IN BUENOS AYRES.
The city of Buenos Ayres, when viewed from the outer roads at a distance
of about eight miles, has an imposing appearance. The domes of the
numerous churches, the public buildings, &c. give it an air of grandeur,
which a nearer approach diminishes. On landing, the dilapidated mole
(destroyed by the storm of the 21st August, 1820) and the mean streets
near the beach, do not augur well for the beauty of the town: it
requires an inspection rightly to appreciate it, for there are edifices
worthy of attention. When I landed, in October, 1820, two cannons,
forty-two-pounders, in very good condition, were mounted on the mole:
they had the Spanish royal arms engraven on them, and inscriptions,
purporting, that one was cast at Seville, and the other at Lima, some
sixty years since.
A passenger is not exposed to any particular custom-house obstructions
when he comes on shore. Should he bring his trunks with him, he is
simply requested to open them, and a slight examination takes place.
Several obnoxious customs have lately been abolished. Formerly, a
sentinel was posted, to prevent any one passing to the water-side at
the mole without first asking permission at the guard-house on the
beach. The system of vessels being obliged to wait, upon their arrival,
in the outer roads, for the visit of the health boat from shore, has
also undergone reform. Masters may now leave their vessels immediately.
It is necessary to go on board the gun-brig, which is now stationed in
the inner roads, and there await the visit of the health boat, which
comes off by a signal from this brig, and very little delay occurs. Upon
the old plan, vessels often remained, through bad weather or neglect,
four or five days before they were visited; during which time no
communication was allowed with the shore. A manifest of the cargo,
the ship's papers,[1] letters, &c. are given to the visiting officer,
provided no consul or agent of the nation whose flag the vessel bears
resides in Buenos Ayres.
[1] The unsettled state of the country formerly deterred masters of
vessels from giving up their registers, fearing they might be lost;
and various shifts were resorted to as substitutes, such as rendering
Mediterranean passes, apprentice indentures, any thing in the shape of
parchment or printing--all went current. Some years since, Matthews,
an adjutant of the port, who had been aid-de-camp to Admiral Gravina,
at the battle of Trafalgar, detected a trick of this sort, the parties
not being aware that he understood English. Matthews was a Spaniard
born, but educated in London.
The removal of the brig of war from the outer roads has taken away the
occasion of much offence. Disputes were continually occurring, from her
firing at vessels and boats to bring them to. The boat of the Countess
of Chichester, the first packet that arrived from Falmouth, had
two shots fired at her, when going on shore with Mr. Pousset, the
vice-consul. Captain Little, who was on board the packet at the time,
not knowing what to make of this firing, ordered the guns to be
double-shotted, and the crew to get under arms. A representation was
made, and an apology promptly given. Serious misunderstandings, however,
I am persuaded, must, some time or other, have occurred, had the brig
continued outside, and pursued the same system.
It is only since October, 1821, that the health boat has been regularly
established. The enforcement of the quarantine laws, and the prevention
of smuggling, were the reasons assigned for it; but there were probably
other motives, one of which might be, to prevent the boats of British
men-of-war from boarding vessels of their own nation before their
visit boat. It would, however, be difficult, strictly to enforce the
quarantine laws at Buenos Ayres. Vessels have frequently arrived at
night, or in a fog, and the captains have come on shore without being
visited, not being aware of the regulations.
The outer and inner roads are, in fact, open roadsteads; neither of them
possessing good anchorage. A strong wind from the E. or S.E. blowing
almost direct on land, is always dangerous; and vessels often drive.
In the storm of the 21st August, 1820, in which sixty vessels of all
descriptions were lost, the wind was at S.E. The winter season is much
better for shipping than the summer; as in the latter, the wind blows
fresh nearly every afternoon from the eastward. Good anchors and cables
are very necessary in the river Plate; chain cables particularly.
In the outer roads, the average depth of water is 18 feet, in the inner
roads, 18: at high tides, there is 25 feet in the outer, and 13 in the
inner roads. A Pampero wind, blowing off the land from the W. or W.S.W.
causes at times a very low river, leaving not more than 5 feet water in
the inner, and 8 in the outer roads. The banks that divide the roads are
then dry, and people ride on horseback upon them. This extreme low tide
does not often happen. The brig Candidate, salt-laden from the Cape
de Verds, was lost, on the 13th June, 1823, near the Ortiz bank, from
an occurrence of this sort: the water having suddenly left her, she
foundered at her anchors. The state of the tide sometimes causes great
delay to vessels leaving the inner roads; days, and even a week, being
lost at some periods.
Pilots, appointed and paid by the government, conduct vessels to and
from the outer and inner roads: two of them are Englishmen, Lee and
Robinson; the others are Portuguese and Creolian, who speak a little
English. The charge for pilotage is about 10 dollars each way. Masters
piloting their own vessels, which is now and then the case, do not
thereby save the charges.
The port of Ensenada, situated 30 miles S.E. from Buenos Ayres, has good
anchorage; and for vessels drawing much water, it is preferable to go
thither. They incur more experience of lighterage, if they require to
be hove down; but it is the only place appertaining to Buenos Ayres in
which it can be done, and the charge is great. Ensenada is only a small,
dull village. Mules are shipped with greater facility there, than at
Buenos Ayres.
The Barraccas is a creek on the south of the town, in which schooners
and small craft repair their defects.
The river Plate may well be called the "hell of navigators:" a survey of
it was made by Captain Heywood, in H.M.S. Nereus, and his chart, though
not exactly correct, is considered to be the best. Buoys have been
lately placed by the government upon the Ortiz and Chico banks;[2] and
they have long had in agitation, the building of a mole, a dock for
shipping, and other extensive works. In addition to a French engineer,
a Quaker gentleman, named Bevans, is engaged. He arrived from London,
with his family, in October, 1822; but, for want of means, nothing of
importance has yet been done. Raising moles and docks is no trifling
undertaking, in a country so destitute of labourers. To remedy the
latter defect, 200 Irishmen, it is said, are coming out under the care
of Colonel O'Brien, one of San Martin's officers. Mr. Bevans has been
traveling about the country, for the purpose of collecting information
of the requisites necessary for his undertaking: he has, however, to
encounter many obstacles. A trifling tax on shipping would be cheerfully
agreed to for an undertaking so important.
[2] For Instructions for navigating the river Plate, see _Appendix_;
where also will be found the Rules of the Port, Dues to be paid by
Vessels, &c.
Several pilot boats cruise about the river Plate, from which pilots may
be obtained.
In addition to the difficulty of large vessels getting up the river, an
adequate freight cannot be procured for them in Buenos Ayres. The Lord
Lynedoch, a ship of 550 tons, with a numerous crew of Lascars, remained
sixteen months and at last took a cargo of mules to the Isle of France.
Vessels of 150 to 200 tons burthen are the most likely to get employed.
Vessels discharge and take in their cargoes by means of lighters, called
_balandras_. An English gentleman, Mr. Cope, has several in his employ,
and does the chief part of the English and American business. Should
there be the least swell upon the water, these lighters cannot lie
alongside; it is only in fine weather that work can be performed.
Boat-hire is dear: to the outer roads, 8 dollars 4 reals, to the inner,
in proportion. The boatmen are mostly Englishmen, strong, active
fellows.
The landing-place, at what was once the mole, is very bad; heavy boats
cannot get near. Carts are used to embark and disembark, for which there
is no fixed charge; they get what they can, like our watermen at home.
Those whose business leads them often afloat, find it a great tax, and
some prefer riding on the backs of their sailors, to paying it. It is
seldom there is water sufficient for boats to come close in, and they
are at all times liable to damage, from the pieces of rock, wrecks, &c.
near the shore.
Buenos Ayres, at the present period, may be said not to possess a navy;
neither, indeed, is so expensive an establishment necessary. The captain
of the port, Don Batista Azopardo, is an Italian by birth; he is said
to be a well-meaning man. He commanded an armed vessel in the last war,
and has been once or twice a prisoner to the English. There are likewise
a number of marine officers in the service of Buenos Ayres. The
_Aranzazu_, national brig of war, so long anchored in the outer roads,
has a crew chiefly English; some of them are refractory seamen from the
merchant vessels. The marines are black soldiers.
* * * * *
There are three regular packets which run between Buenos Ayres and Monte
Video; the _Pepa_, _Dolores_, and _Mosca_, schooners. Seventeen dollars
are charged for the passage each way, every thing being provided, except
beds. This passage, which is about 150 miles, is sometimes made in 12 or
14 hours; at others, it takes several days. The favourite packet is the
_Pepa_, an American-built schooner, with good accommodations, commanded
by Campbell, an Englishman, who, from his skill and attention, is
peculiarly fitted for such an employment.
* * * * *
The CLIMATE of Buenos Ayres, taken generally, is decidedly good, and
more congenial to English habits than that most places abroad. Its
salubrity, however, is overrated: a consumptive person must not think
of coming here; many of that class have been obliged to fly to Mendoza
and other climes, to escape the vicisitudes of this.
The spring months of September, October, November, and the autumn
ones of April and May, are the most agreeable parts of the year. The
thermometer, at those seasons, averages about 60; and we have repeated
clear and bracing weather, intermingled, however, with inclement days.
The summer is not so hot as the latitude would denote. A sea breeze sets
in, at times, towards the afternoon; but this is not regular. December
and January are the hottest months. On some days of oppressive heat, the
thermometer may average 80, and at others, the pleasing temperature of
70 and 75. In January, 1824, for nearly a week it was 96 in the shade:
the oldest inhabitant never remembered such a continuance of heat.
When the heat is at the greatest, a _pampero_ suddenly comes, with its
accompaniment of rain, thunder and lightning, and cools the air. These
Pampero winds from the W. and W.S.W. with nothing to impede their
progress across the extended Pampas, blow with great violence, raising
clouds of dust, and obliging every one to close windows and doors. Being
off the land, they are not dangerous to shipping; though vessels at
the mouth of the river have been blown in sea hundreds of miles, by
a Pampero. The thunder and lightning to an European is terrific: the
lightning is often dangerous.
The dust, fleas, and musquitos, render the summer months very
disagreeable. The fleas are a great annoyance, the houses being filled
with them; the very dust breeds them; and they seem to have a great
partiality for foreigners. I don't observe that the natives heed them.
They laugh at the English mode of washing the rooms to get rid of these
vermin; their plan is, to strew the room with fennel, sweeping that
and the fleas altogether into the street. Musquitos are another of the
disagreeables.
A north wind, in summer, is very unpleasant, the heated atmosphere
relaxing both mind and body. The combined effects of heat, dust, and
wind, make the enjoyment of an evening promenade extremely precarious.
In summer, the pastures frequently catch fire, from the intenseness of
the heat. In 1821, Mr. Halsey, an American gentleman, who has a large
sheep farm, sustained a considerable loss by an event of this kind,
many of his sheep having been burnt. The same heat that occasioned Mr.
Halsey's loss brought on a violent Pampero; and, from the dust and
burning ashes that enveloped the city, one might have supposed that
the days of Herculaneum and Pompeii were about to return.
The winter is mild, yet there are days of piercing cold in the months of
June, July, and August; and thin ice may be seen in the morning, but not
any snow. We have here the penetrating rains, mists, and November days
of England, without its comforts: from these circumstances, and the heat
of the summer, Englishmen feel the cold much more than in England, and
cling to their fire-sides, for they have introduced those luxuries, and
the natives in some cases follow our example; otherwise, the ladies wrap
themselves up in their shawls, and the gentlemen in their capotes, and
thus pass the severe days of winter. The thermometer in winter is
generally at 40 to 50, sometimes at 35.
The roads, after heavy rains, are nearly impassable, forming _pantanas_,
or mud holes, which are dangerous to travellers; but, on the return of
fine weather; they quickly dry again. The dead horses and dogs, that lie
about the roads, quickly decay.
The rich pastures afford food to the cattle all the year round. The
winter's general mildness prevents the necessity of housing them.
That Buenos Ayres possesses a fine climate, no one can deny; but not
to the extent its panegyrists have stated. I speak as I have found it,
having in vain looked for that Italian sky, soul-breathing softness
in the air, that some pretend to have found: but it may be defined a
healthy, warm climate.
The various and sudden changes to which the British climate is subject,
form a fruitful grumbling topic to many Englishmen and foreigners, who
can fancy nothing that is not foreign. According to their accounts, even
the moon shines better here than at home. I will venture to assert, that
we have in England more real fine days in May, June, July, August, and
September, than in the best months at Buenos Ayres. Of our delightful
summer evenings, they have nothing to compare. To make any contrast of
a winter, in latitude 34, and that of 50, is out of the question.
In this part of South America, earthquakes are only heard of; we dread
not, here, the catastrophes of Peru, Chili, and Mexico.
* * * * *
The prevalent DISEASES of Buenos Ayres are fevers, sore throats,
rheumatism, and others common to Europe. Strangers are subject to
rheumatism from the dampness and searching winds. Sore throats, in
many instances, have been fatal.
It has often been observed, that we feel the effects of free-drinking
here, more than in England. I have experienced this more than once, and
thought it peculiar to myself, till others complained of the same.
* * * * *
The country round Buenos Ayres is uninteresting; all is dreary sameness.
But where, indeed, shall we find the charming scenery of our dear
England,--its hills and dales, parks, thick-set hedges, and splendid
mansions? We miss, too, that endless chirping of birds, ever heard in
our thick-set hedges. Here, the equestrian takes his ride merely for the
sake of exercise, and not from any pleasure the country can afford. I
did not expect to find villas, parks, and cultivated grounds; but I
thought it would be more diversified.
In a place where horses are so cheap, one might conclude that Englishmen
would be continually on horseback, but they soon get tired of a
recreation, in which nothing but exercise is concerned. The most
frequented ride is to the village of Isidro, fifteen miles from the
city, the Richmond of this place. On Sundays and holidays much company
resort thither. It has some attractions in point of scenery.
The Barracca road is good--upon a par with those of England.
Horse-racing and other sports are practised there, both by Englishmen
and natives.
A ride in the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres is not, however, entirely
devoid of interest; especially in the fruit season, when the _quintas_,
or farm-houses, with the peach trees weighed down by delicious fruit,
the orange trees (though this is not their soil), and the wild aloe, so
common in this and the opposite continent of Africa, afford an agreeable
prospect. But the wild rose, blackberries, and the mass of roots and
plants of English fields and hedges, are not to be seen. The trees (if
they can be called so) are of a nature so dwarfish, that they seem like
apologies for trees, stinted in their growth by bad nursing.
* * * * *
The _Alameda_, or public walk of Buenos Ayres, is upon the beach, near
the mole. It is totally unworthy such a city, and in the neighbourhood
of all the rabble of the town. It is only about 200 yards in length,
with rows of trees the height of bushes on each side, and brick seats,
which are too much honoured by the fair forms that use them. A moderate
assemblage frequent this walk on Sunday evenings: the beauty and dress
of the females could alone tempt a stranger to visit it. On other days
it is deserted, except by some elderly gentlemen, who, as in our St.
James's Park and Kensington Gardens, are glad to escape from the
multitude, and commune with themselves.
* * * * *
The beach well deserves its nick-name of _Wapping_; being crowded with
sailors of all nations, grog-shops, stores, &c. The English sailors
idling about the beach would man a ship of war. A stranger, seeing so
many English faces, might suppose it an English colony. At night, the
sailors in the grog-shops dance, to the music of the fiddle and flute,
reels, and the College hornpipe in perfection, astonishing the Spanish
girls. At one of these _pulperias_, or grog-shops, on the beach, a
large picture was lately hoisted, of H.M.S. Boyne in full sail, flags,
signals, &c. streaming. The English sailors mustered in great numbers
upon this occasion, and rent the air with their cheers.
The seamen upon the beach are, at times, disorderly; but not more so
than in other countries. American sailors have been the most refractory,
causing their captains infinite trouble. The captain of an American ship
going to sea, lately, made application to the captain of one of our
packets, for irons, to punish his mutinous crew; but he replied, that he
never had such articles on board his ship.
In no part of the world are masters of vessels subject to such annoyance
from the desertion of their crews.[3] Men get into the hands of crimps,
who conceal them, and exact their own price from those who are in want
of sailors. This has been in some measure rectified lately, especially
since the suppression of privateering. Many sailors roam about the
country, working as labourers; but they soon get tired of that, and
hanker after their old employment, as an old coachman likes to hear the
smack of the whip. These "beach-rangers," as they are called, have often
wished to enter for his majesty's ships that have been lying off Buenos
Ayres; but few or none have been accepted. Sailors begin to find there
is no service equal to our's.
[3] On the 4th December, 1823, the Dutch ship of war _Lynx_, of 30
guns, arrived at Buenos Ayres, on her way to the Pacific; and thirty
of the crew deserted, during her stay of nineteen days. The boats came
on shore latterly with armed marines, and the men were not permitted
to land.
The French brig of war _Faune_ arrived on the 11th, and sailed on the
23d June, 1824: she lost six men by desertion. This brig brought to
Buenos Ayres the French Admiral, Rosamel.
* * * * *
There are two English COFFEE-HOUSES, or HOTELS; Faunch's, and Keen's.
The former is a very superior one, and provides the dinners given upon
our national days, such as St. George's, St. Andrew's, &c. besides
numerous private dinners of Englishmen, Americans, Creolians, &c. It is
situated near the Fort. Faunch, the master, and his wife, have had great
experience in their profession in London; and the style of his dinners
is hardly to be exceeded there. The king's birth-day dinner is kept
up with great _éclat_: the room is surrounded by flags of different
nations; and they have both vocal and instrumental music. From 70 to 80
persons generally sit down to table, including the ministers of the
country, who are always invited. The government pay us the compliment of
hoisting the flag at the Fort, on that day.
Another hotel, kept by a respectable North-American female, Mrs. Thorn,
a widow, is much resorted to by the Americans.
In the above coffee-houses, they charge 40 dollars per month for board
and lodging. An abatement is made to those who agree to remain a certain
period. Dinner for one person, including a pint of wine, is a dollar;
breakfast, tea, and supper, from 2 to 4 reals each; and a bed per night,
4 reals.
On the beach, near the Fort, is a tavern, or eating-house, called the
Commercial Hotel; the master of which is a Spaniard, but most of the
waiters and servants are French: they have, likewise, an English waiter.
Dishes of all sorts can be procured there. To dine well, the price
amounts to nearly the same as at other taverns. The large dining-room
will accommodate from 70 to 80 persons, and is neatly fitted up.
Pictures of the battle of Alexandria, the storming of Seringapatam;
portraits of the French Marshals, Bertrand, Drouet, Foy, &c.; and views
of Paris and other cities, are suspended round the room.
The Café de la Victoria, in Buenos Ayres, is very splendid; we have
nothing of the sort in London. It may not perhaps vie with the Mille
Colonnes, or other Parisian coffee-houses. There are, likewise, in
Buenos Ayres, those of St. Marco, the Catalan, and Café de Martin. They
have all large court-yards, or _patios_, attached to them, and stand
upon a great space of ground, more than could be well spared in London
for such purposes, where land is so valuable. These _patios_, in summer,
are covered with awnings, affording an agreeable retreat from the sun's
heat. They have wells of good water. To each also is attached a billiard
table; and, as this is a pastime to which they are much addicted, the
tables are always crowded. The coffee-rooms are covered with shewy
French paper, representing scenes in India, Otaheite, Don Quixote, and
designs from Grecian and Roman history.
A new coffee-house was opened in December, 1824, near the church of St.
Michael. The music, illuminations, and fireworks, in front of the
establishment, on the evening of its opening, attracted a great
concourse of people.
About four miles from town is a public-house called the York Hotel, kept
by a native. Creolian masters and mates of vessels, upon their hired
horses, at one dollar per afternoon, generally stop there; and the
horses are so accustomed to it, that it is with difficulty they will go
beyond it.
In the coffee-houses the charges are very moderate: a wine-glass of
liqueurs, brandy, or any other cordial, tea, coffee, and bread, half
a real; with toast, one real. The waiters do not expect fees, as in
England: a _capitas_, or head waiter, superintends the coffee-room.[4]
[4] In the coffee-houses, the waiters are very inquisitive, and in a
manner that one cannot be angry with. A knight of the napkin got me
into conversation, asking me a host of questions about England and
Englishmen, declaring, that he liked them better than any foreigners;
and, after passing those compliments, which I received with due
reverence, he eagerly demanded the reason of the English having such
red faces? I knew he could not mean mine, as I am dark, and of a
sallow complexion; so I told him, that the rich people drank a great
deal of Port wine, and the poor equally so of beer, which accounted
for the bloom he had noticed.
In the arrangements and decoration of coffee-houses, the French and
Spaniards far outstrip us. The English are not a coffee-house-going
people: that time which other nations spend in them, the Englishman
passes in business, or with his family.
Many Englishmen, upon their first arrival, reside with Spanish
families, to improve themselves in the language: forty dollars per month
is the charge. The houses of Mrs. Cassamajor and Mrs. Rubio take in
boarders; these families are of the highest respectability, and they
have several accomplished daughters, whose society is very interesting;
but Spanish cookery, with its garlic and grease, no more pleases an
English taste, than does that of the French.
* * * * *
Of the PUBLIC BUILDINGS, the Fort is the seat of government, the
Downing-Street of Buenos Ayres: it is situated near the river, with
residences inside. Though surrounded by a ditch, with cannon mounted on
the ramparts, drawbridges, &c. it could make but little defence against
a serious attack. One would suppose, that those who chose the spot on
which the city is built, had in view the prevention of attack by hostile
fleets, the shallowness of the water being a defence against any danger
of this kind.
The Consulado is a respectable-looking house; it contains a Court of
Justice, or Appeals, for persons cited for debt, of which they regulate
the payment according to the ability of the party summoned, very similar
to our Courts of Request. In cases of debt they are very lenient,
seldom committing to prison, except for a flagrant attempt at fraud,
and sometimes giving the debtor five years to pay his creditors,
which is almost tantamount to a release. Disputes are decided by the
magistrates, at the Consulado, with an impartiality that gives universal
satisfaction. The English disputants, it has been observed, are very
numerous, causing more trouble than those of all the rest of the town
put together. The Post-Office is held in this building; and on the first
floor (for the house is one story high) is a Music School, in the
morning for young ladies, and in the evening for gentlemen.
The Cabildo, or Town-House, has nothing remarkable about it, but the
church tower, and a long balcony in front: it is built in the Plaza, of
which it forms the western boundary. The great powers possessed by the
Members of the Cabildo, according to the old Spanish law, have been
reformed within these three years. It has a prison for criminal
offenders; and the head Police-Office is near it.
The Bank, and the adjoining range of houses, are lofty and handsome.
The House of Representatives has been lately constructed; it follows
the model, on a minor scale, of the French Chamber at Paris, and forms
a perfect theatre. The members are seated in the pit, the president
and secretary on the stage, and the spectators in the boxes. A bell
announces the commencement and the close of business. The orators, when
speaking, remain seated; so that they have no opportunity to display the
graces of action. It is well lighted, by tasteful chandeliers. The armed
soldiery, both inside and outside the house, destroys the idea of
republicanism.
The Custom-House has no pretensions to notice, on the score of
appearance, whatever it may merit for its convenience. It was proposed
to build another, in the extensive grounds and gardens of the suppressed
monastery of Le Merced; but this, like many other propositions, has been
abandoned.
The Public Library is a credit to this infant state; it contains about
21,000 volumes. Every respectable person is allowed admittance, to
peruse the books. Mr. Moreno, who speaks English, is the librarian.
Some choice drawings of medals from France are in the library.
There is a small Botanical Museum; but the country furnishes few
specimens of plants.
The Retiro, occupied as barracks, is on the north extremity of the
city, and has nothing worthy of notice about it, but its theatrical
appearance, and daubs of paintings on the walls. There is a large space
in front, called the Bull Ring, in which bull-fights used to take place.
The band performs there, for a short time, in the afternoon. It is here
that criminals are shot, when the punishment is not for a state offence.
Being situated upon high ground, and near the river, the Retiro has
a pleasant prospect. In one of the streets near it, is a large brick
building, built for a distillery, twelve years since, by Mr. Thwaites,
an Englishman. The speculation did not answer, and the house is now in
a state of dilapidation. A windmill, west of the town, is a conspicuous
object; it is the only one in the country, and was erected by Mr.
Stroud, also an Englishman. It had, for some time, the fate of the
distillery; but I have heard that it now flourishes.
The Residencia, on the south side of the Fort, is appropriated as an
hospital. There are two or three other public hospitals, including one
for foundlings.
* * * * *
The Grand Plaza is a large square, environed by buildings: on the east
is the Recoba, a piazza with shops; on the west, the Cabildo; on the
north, a part of the cathedral; and on the south, a range of shops.
There is a pyramid in the centre, which, on festival nights, is
illuminated. If paved, it would be an admirable place for the parade
of troops; at present, wet weather renders it almost impassable.
A second Plaza has been made, adjoining the other, near the Fort, by
the removal of the market-place and some dirty sheds and stabling.
The river, the fort, some neat buildings on the south, the handsome
arch, under which there is a passage to the two plazas, the towers of
St. Francisco's church, and the Cabildo, taken in perspective from
Faunch's Hotel, would form a good picture.
At night, the streets are respectably lighted by lamps fastened to the
walls, which extend as far as the eye can reach in some of the principal
thoroughfares, in St. Francisco Street particularly. A stranger, on
viewing this street, would imbibe no mean opinion of the city. The
lamps do not afford any thing like the illumination of the gas lights of
London; they are equal, however, to those used before the introduction
of gas.
From the state of the pavements, except in the principal streets,
walking at night is very disagreeable--in wet weather, dangerous; and
here are no accommodating hackney coaches to jump into.
It is intended to pave all the streets; but, from the scarcity of
workmen and materials, it will be some time before this can be effected.
Those that have pavements, bating their narrowness, are similar to the
streets of London; the unpaved ones are very miserable.
* * * * *
The HOUSES of Buenos Ayres are mostly built of brick, and white-washed.
Very few of them are one story high: they are flat-roofed, with a high
parapet, and have a court-yard attached. The windows are protected by
iron bars placed lengthwise in the front, so that a Londoner might fancy
them lock-up houses. They form a complete fortification; and the loss
sustained in Whitelock's attack ceases to excite surprise, recollecting
that our troops had to run the gauntlet through an enemy they could not
get at.
Many of the houses occupy a large extent of ground. The _sala_ is the
principal room. The roofs of the houses, denominated the _azotea_, are
very pleasant, especially near the river; and the party-walls are so
low, that a person can traverse whole streets upon the house-tops. The
inhabitants do not fear robberies, relying upon the strength of their
doors, iron-barred windows, and barking dogs: of the latter, two or
three are in a house. The bars in the window fronts are an excellent
contrivance, and quite necessary, in a climate requiring so much air,
and likewise for security, the street windows being close to the
foot-path, and no areas to protect them. They report that this fashion
is a remnant of Spanish jealousy; at any rate, it does their invention
credit. Many of the mansions are specimens of Moorish architecture;
those belonging to the richer class are splendidly furnished with
carpets, handsome mirrors, &c. So little wood is used in building, there
is no fear of fire. Extensive houses, formerly occupied by the first
families of the country, are now tenanted by British merchants; and the
salas that were once graced by beauty, music, and the dance, are now
stored with dry goods, and nothing is heard but the hum of business.
House rent is very high: for a moderate-sized house, from 60 to 80
dollars per month.
* * * * *
CHURCHES.--In Catholic countries, the attention of the Protestant
traveller is ever attracted towards the churches. Their gorgeous
decorations, music, dress of the priesthood, &c. form so great a
contrast to the simplicity of the reformed religion, that we gaze, as
if viewing the splendid scenery of some theatrical spectacle, and, for
the moment, cease to be astonished at the influence which this imposing
church has exercised, and still continues to exercise, over a great
portion of the Christian world. If the Spaniards in Europe are supposed
to surpass all other Catholic nations in their strict adherence to the
rights and ceremonies of "holy church," they have not neglected to
transplant to South America this formidable engine of power. The charms
of its music, and its general magnificence, must have bewildered the
imagination of the natives, and insured to the Spaniards complete
authority.
I have visited most of the churches of Buenos Ayres, with feelings I can
scarcely describe. My mind was ever strongly imbued with recollections
of those youthful readings of monastic institutions, of cowled monks
and nuns, which, in our Protestant land, we only read of; but to have
the reality before me, absorbed every faculty--I gave a loose to
fancy--every thought was engaged.
I believe the following to be a tolerably correct list of the churches
and chapels in Buenos Ayres:--
The Cathedral.
St. Francisco.
St. Domingo.
St. Ignatio, or College Church.
St. Catalina (Convent of Nuns).
St. Juan (ditto).
St. Nicholas.
St. Miguel.
Residencia.
Montserrat.
La Merced.
La Conception.
Loccaro.
Recolator.
La Piedad.
_Chapels._
St. Lucia.
St. Roque.
Hospital.
The Cathedral is a large domed building, built of brick, as indeed they
all are. Its outside presents nothing particular, with the exception of
its loftiness; and, in common with the rest, it has crosses placed upon
every prominent part. A new front is building towards the Plaza; but
it gets on very slowly, the scaffolding being so very expensive. The
interior is lofty and spacious; it is ornamented with figures of the
Virgin Mary and the infant Jesus, in glittering attire. Jesus on the
cross, and saints in strict costume, occupy places at the different
altars. Flowers, artificial and real, are plentifully bestowed, and
relics are strewed in all directions, informing the foreigner that he is
in a land where Catholicism once existed in all its pristine grandeur.
These emblems of peace, in the body of the church, are shaded by those
of war from above. Suspended from the ceiling are about twenty flags,
taken from the Spaniards on various occasions, as at Monte Video, Maypu,
&c. _Fernando VII._ is inscribed upon most of them. The grand altar is
adorned with costly gems; and when the large and numerous candles are
lighted, the effect is grand. The organ and choir are good: the tones
of the former vibrating through the aisles, and the kneeling females in
black attire, make an impression of no ordinary nature. The government
and municipal authorities attend at the Cathedral on state and feast
days, forming processions to and from the church. The Sunday mass, about
twelve o'clock, is attended by most of the fashion and beauty of the
town.
Of the churches, that of St. Francisco seems most profusely ornamented.
Virgins and saints of all descriptions occupy every altar and nook of
the interior, clothed in rich and fanciful attire, which the devotion of
the faithful has bestowed. The grand altar is very brilliant; and when
fully lighted, it appears a sheet of gold. Some of the ornaments, I
should think, are valuable. This edifice is of considerable length, and
contains twenty friars of the order of St. Francisco, the only community
of the sort now existing in Buenos Ayres. The towers are paved with
tiling, which, at a distance, looks like marble. St. Francisco's church
is my favourite, for, child-like, I am attracted by glitter.
The College church is one I rarely visit, from prejudice or revenge at
an insult offered to me by one of the servants, who told me Englishmen
had no business there, and absolutely took my arm to conduct me out. In
any other place I should have chastised him.--It is a gloomy structure,
both outside and inside, even with the usual decorations. The Holy Ghost
proceeds on its different missions from this church.
St. Domingo church is large, with a spacious dome. It had, until the
suppression, in 1822, forty-eight friars of the Dominican order; amongst
whom was an Irish priest, Father Burke, who, from motives of kindness,
is still allowed to occupy his apartment. He is more than 70 years of
age, and much esteemed by the British as well as natives, being divested
of those prejudices which so often disgrace his cloth. The rooms of the
friars, and the garden, make it a comfortable retreat. The interior of
St. Domingo is light and airy, without much decoration; but it contains
objects that swell the beating hearts of Englishmen--British standards
ranged around the dome, the trophies of Beresford's and Whitelock's
expeditions. Crawford, with part of his division, it will be
recollected, took refuge in this church. I have viewed those flags with
the most painful recollections, obtained, as they were, not in open
fight, but by concealed and inaccessible enemies; and have felt for the
fate of my unhappy countrymen, slaughtered, without an opportunity to
retaliate, by those who could not have stood one half-hour before them
in a fair field of battle. This city is almost the only one in the world
that can boast the possession of such prizes.
The church of Le Merced is a very pretty building, with a dome and
tower. The interior is compact, and, in splendour, very little inferior
to St. Francisco; containing virgins, Madonas, holy pictures, &c. &c. in
gorgeous abundance, with the usual quantity of confessional boxes. It is
much resorted to. Until lately, it held forty-five friars, of the order
of Le Merced; a peculiar order, allowing its professors, it is said, to
wear concealed arms. One of the regiments attends divine service, and
their band performs, in this church.
The description of one may be said to include a description of all the
churches, as they partake of the same general character, excepting only
that some are more splendid than others. No impediment is offered to the
admission of foreigners into these sacred buildings; and they may roam
about _ad libitum_. The obstruction I received in the College church, I
am persuaded, was the unauthorized act of the fellow who offered it. To
avoid singularity, it is best to conform to their mode of devotion. The
eye of curiosity will, now and then, be directed towards a stranger; but
this is to be expected, though some gentlemen express a repugnance to
visit their churches for that reason, and a fear of intruding.
The churches, with the buildings attached, gardens, &c. occupy a great
extent of ground; particularly those of St. Juan and Catalina, which
were erected at a time when religious enthusiasm was at its height.
* * * * *
The THEATRE, as an edifice, has nothing to boast. The exterior looks
like a stable; but the interior is better than the outside promises. It
has been much improved since my arrival. They sadly want a new theatre.
There is a plot of ground near the Plaza just adapted for it: but unless
the government take it in hand, the public spirit of individuals, I
fear, will not; and yet, with a people so theatrically inclined, it is
somewhat surprising. Almost the first inquiry of a foreigner is of the
Theatre: at present, they smile at its insignificance.
The pit is large, extending a considerable length from the stage, with
backs to the seats, and partitions to each, which serve as a rest for
the arms: they are numbered, and let out under the appellation of
"_lunetas_;" every person proceeding to his own seat; thus the crowding
and fighting, for places, so common in our theatres, is avoided. No
females are admitted into the pit.
In the dress circle, some blue silk spread over the panels of the boxes
is all that distinguishes it from the others.
The dress boxes will contain about eight persons each. As they have not
any seats affixed to them, those who engage them send chairs; or the
theatre will supply them, by paying a trifle for their use. The price
of a box, for a night's performance, is three dollars. These boxes, and,
indeed, places for every other part of the house, may be taken for a
certain period called a "_function_," which lasts ten nights. Many
families engage their boxes this way, which makes them come reasonable.
Under the dress circle, and even with the pit, are boxes called
_palcos_, at 2½ dollars per night.
The _cazuela_, or gallery, is similar to the one at Astley's, except
that it is not so large. It is appropriated to females alone. The
keeping females thus crowded together in a theatre, and separated from
their natural protectors, seems an abominable practice. A stranger is
apt to form erroneous opinions of the fair occupants of the cazuela, and
can scarcely believe that the most respectable are to be found there:
but it is so; and husbands, brothers, and friends, wait for them at the
gallery door. This custom, it is said, they inherit from the Moors. The
_goddesses_ of the cazuela behave in the most orderly manner; much more
so, I suspect, than my countrywomen would, similarly situated.
Over the stage is inscribed the words--"_Es la Comedia Espejo de la
Vida_."
The Governor's box was close to the stage, on what in the London
theatres is denominated the Prince's side of the house; and the
_cabildo_, or box of the chief magistracy, was in front. But now the
Governor's box is removed to what was the _cabildo_, and the English
consul occupies the one lately the Governor's. The Governor, except on
national days, seldom attends the theatre.
That important personage, the prompter, has his little tub, as usual,
in the middle of the stage, destroying all the illusion of the scene,
and, from necessity, obliging the audience to hear him as well as the
performers. Senor Zappucci, an Italian, intent, one evening, upon
impressing the audience with the drollery of a comic song, fell through
the prompter's hole; and the spectators began to consider whether this
was a part of his song. Fortunately he was not hurt. The superior
arrangement, in this respect, of the English theatres, might afford a
lesson to the most prejudiced foreigners.
The admittance is two reals to all parts of the house: but this does not
include a seat. It is, therefore, necessary to take a whole box, or a
single place in the pit (which costs three reals), in addition to the
admission.
Soldiers, who constitute every where the police of the city, were
formerly stationed both inside and outside of the theatre; but this
is no longer the case; and the eye of the republican citizen is not
offended by their presence at places of public amusement.
No refreshments are sold in the theatre; we never hear the "Choice
fruit, ladies and gentlemen, and a bill of the play!" and the spectators
in the pit are saved the nuisance of having the peelings of oranges and
apples dropped upon them. But then they are not condemned to sit five or
six hours, as in our theatres; three hours and a half is the utmost. The
pit audience generally walk out between the acts, and reassume their
seats without disturbance or difficulty.
Smoking in the theatre is not allowed; but such charms has the segar,
that they watch the opportunity of the absence of the police to smoke in
the lobbies.
The theatre continues open all the year round, with the exception of
Lent; and then music is permitted.
The regular nights of performance are Sundays and Thursdays; though
there are sometimes performances on Tuesdays, saints' days, &c. Sunday
nights are the most crowded, as in all Catholic countries. On rainy
nights there is no performance.
The usual performances at the theatre consist of a play and farce; with
singing, sometimes, between the acts.
"_Othello_" is at times performed--not that of our Shakspeare, but a
translation from the French. Its absurdities and tameness no Englishman
can endure with common patience; he looks in vain for those bursts that
overpower the imagination, and electrify the spectators.
An ingenious English gentleman translated Cumberland's "_Wheel of
Fortune_," and "_The Jew_;" but they are too sentimental to please this
audience. "_Love laughs at Locksmiths_" and "_Matrimony_," from the
original French, are stock pieces; and "_The Scottish Outlaw_," and
"_Charles Edward Stuart_" are very successful.
The performers are about equal to those of our country theatres. Of the
females, Doña Trinidad Guevra takes the lead. She has a good figure, a
tolerably expressive face, and a sweet, plaintive voice. In such parts
as _Letitia Hardy_, and _Maria_, in "_The Citizen_," she excels; and
likewise in the sentimental.
Velarde is their first male performer, and plays tragedy, comedy,
farce--it would be unkind to say, with _Silvester Daggerwood_--and
"makes nothing of them;" for, in comedy, he has talent: his tragedy
is not first-rate. He has the merit of dressing his characters with
some regard to costume. I have seen him personate a British officer,
with a uniform coat nearly a copy of those worn by our Foot-Guard
officers.--The general manner of dress upon the stage, at times,
approaches to the burlesque. An English nobleman is always made to
wear the order of the Garter, and a star, whether in street, forest,
or drawing-room. Señor Rosquellas, in the part of _Lord Leicester_ or
_Essex_ (I know not which) in Rossini's "_Queen Elizabeth_," wears the
dress of a modern French field-marshal: his taste and experience should
reform this.
Señor Culebras (in English, Mr. Snake) is made the butt of the juvenile
part of the audience--the _Claremont_ of this theatre. When he appears
to give out the play, they vociferate his name. Why they thus make sport
of him, I know not, except that he has a peculiarly spare person, and is
a sort of deputy manager, the Mr. Lamp of the company. He is said to be
a sensible man, speaking the Spanish language very correctly. As an
actor, he is both chaste and pleasing.
In low comedy, they have a good actor, named Felipe David, the Liston
of the company; and one Señor Vera, who is a useful performer, as well
as singer, and has abilities of no mean order. His representation of
_Colonel Cox_, in the play of "_Charles Edward Stuart_," founded upon
an incident after the battle of Culloden, forcibly brought to my
recollection Lovegrove's _Rattan_, in the farce of "_The Bee-Hive_."
Our English actresses, when they come on the stage, "prepared for woe,"
have their white pocket-handkerchiefs pinned to their clothes: here they
are held in the hands. Both customs are ridiculous; and the constant
application they make of them in this theatre renders it more so.
The orchestra consists of twenty-eight instrumental performers. The
symphonies between the acts are from Haydn, Mozart, &c. &c. as in the
English theatres. The performances are ushered in by an overture,
generally selected with great taste.
The musical department has greatly improved; and they get through
difficult compositions with considerable spirit: constant practice, and,
above all, the great exertions of Señor Rosquellas has effected this.
This gentleman, a Spaniard by birth, made his first _debût_ before a
Buenos Ayres audience in 1822, as a vocalist. His science has enabled
him to surmount the imperfections of a very indifferent voice, and he is
always heard with pleasure. Mr. Rosquellas[5] may be called the founder
of the Buenos Ayres Opera; for, until he came, the orchestra was very
indifferent. Mr. Rosquellas speaks English, and is married to an English
lady. He has been in London, and, I believe, sung with Braham there.
He was ably seconded by Señor Vacani, also from Rio Janeiro, the best
_buffo_ I have seen (Naldi, perhaps, excepted). We had the music of
Rossini night after night to delighted audiences: the duet of "_Al'
idea di quell metallo_," from "_The Barber of Seville_," is as great
a favourite here as in Europe.
[5] As Mr. R. is an important personage in Buenos Ayres, I cannot
forbear relating an anecdote of him:--In an excursion to Rio Janeiro,
he took away with him a slave girl, reporting (or scandal had done
so for him) that she was a present from the governor's lady, as a
trifling reward for the pleasure his musical talents had afforded her.
This coming to the ears of the lady made her highly indignant, saying,
that "she was not in the habit of giving away her slaves." Rosquellas,
upon his return, was sent to prison, and made to account for the
slave, by paying a round sum of money.
The departure of Vacani left a blank in the musical world, which has
been since, in some degree, compensated by the appearance of Doña
Angelina Tani. She has a fine tenor voice; the lower tones are of great
depth, and some of them she elicits with great effect in a trio from
Rossini's "_Elizabeth Queen of England_."
During the Lent of 1824, we had some delightful musical treats,
which rendered the representations of their regular drama very dull,
particularly to a foreigner.
An English mechanic, by name Waldegrave, was tempted to make a trial
upon this stage as a singer. He sung "_The Beautiful Maid_," and "_The
Bewildered Maid_;" but he failed to make any impression. His voice was
good, but he wanted grace.
In English singing, I doubt whether the inimitable Braham would please
them. They smile at the idea of our having a talent for music. The
finest compositions of Arne, Storace, Shield, Braham, &c. might stand
a chance of being suspected to be stolen from foreign composers;
for nothing goes down but Italian or Spanish music. Rosquellas,
from being a Spaniard, and singing their popular songs, such as the
"_Contrabandista_," &c. is just to their taste: for, though no longer
owning the Spanish sway, they still cling to that music which charmed
them in their youth.
With a people so fond of dancing, one would expect to find a regular
corps de ballet at the theatre; but a dance was not to be seen, except,
now and then, dancers from the Rio Janeiro Theatre accepted engagements
for a limited period, until Monsieur and Madame Touissaint, from the
Paris and London Opera, arrived, who meet with great and deserved
encouragement.
The bolero, fandango, and the pleasing castanets, seem peculiar only to
Spain: I had thought to have found them common here. The Touissaints
have introduced the bolero, and dance charmingly.
An Englishman, at a foreign theatre, cannot help being struck with the
stillness and order, which form so great a contrast to what he has been
accustomed to at home. The theatre of Buenos Ayres, in this respect,
might serve as an example to those of more polished nations.[6] But,
notwithstanding Lord Byron's remark, that he would never write a play
for our winter theatres, whilst the one-shilling gallery was suffered to
remain; I prefer their boisterous mirth, and its many inconveniences, to
the monotony of the foreign stage. The magnificence and ingenuity of our
Christmas pantomime, which every body pretends to despise, and yet which
all go to see, with the joyous faces of so many children seated round
the boxes, convulsed with laughter at the drolleries of a Grimaldi, are
not to be paralleled elsewhere. A London theatre is, indeed, a world
within itself.
[6] I once witnessed a most disgraceful scene at the Theatre Français,
at Paris. Talma was performing _Cinna_--the house was crowded, when
some English ladies entered the boxes, escorted by two of their
countrymen, military officers. It was at the time when the British
army occupied Paris. In taking off their shawls, the backs of the
ladies were, for a moment, turned towards the pit; when a yelling
commenced from that quarter, which would have disgraced savages. The
interference of the British officers increased the confusion; the
most insulting gestures were resorted to; and the ladies quitted the
theatre in tears, affording a noble triumph to those brave champions
of etiquette.
Sometimes a straggling English sailor will wander into this theatre; but
not understanding it, he soon leaves it for the grog shop. A sailor is
always a troublesome inmate of a theatre. Two of them were passing their
remarks rather loudly, one evening: the audience laughed; but not so the
police, for they handed the two poor fellows into the street. Jack swore
that he had had many a row at the Liverpool and Portsmouth play-house,
without being molested; and damned such liberty as that at Buenos Ayres.
I got my weather-beaten countrymen away, seeing them inclined to resist;
for unarmed men stand but a poor chance with a police of bayonets and
swords.
Managers and actors quarrel in the new as well as in the old world.
Velarde has had one or two disputes, and left the theatre. The audience
insisted upon his return, and the manager was obliged to yield. The
actor's appearance, after these squabbles, is made a triumph by his
friends; and the ladies in the cazuela throw bouquets, literally
strewing the stage with flowers. These disagreements give rise to formal
appeals to the public, from both parties, in the shape of printed
addresses. In Velarde's dispute, the manager had charged him with
getting drunk. The actor indignantly denied this; but allowed that, on
the 25th of May (the anniversary of their independence), he did get a
little merry, broke glasses, and quarrelled with the landlord, in honour
of the day, as every good patriot should do; and, in answer to a remark
that had been made upon the graces of his person, he stated, that he did
not possess Jacob's ladder, to climb to heaven, and ask God why he was
not made an Adonis.
A certain priest, Castañeda, having, in a publication, attacked the
character of Doña Trinidad, for wearing upon the stage the portrait of
a married gentleman (as he asserted), the lady absented herself from
the theatre for some nights. On her re-appearance, she was greeted with
applause; the audience reasoning, like our's in the affair of Mrs. H.
Johnstone and Braham, that the public have nothing to do with private
character.
Performers, at times, in Buenos Ayres, announce their own benefits--even
the females. A lady will address the audience with all the earnestness
so important an occasion demands, and will go round the house,
delivering bills of the intended performance, couched in high-flown
language, "To the immortal and respectable public of Buenos Ayres," &c.
&c. They know how to "bill the town," as well as any English country
manager. Previous to a benefit night, they have a custom of illuminating
the front of the theatre, and exhibiting a transparency of the proposed
representation;[7] with bonfires, rockets, and a band of music at the
door. This has been ridiculed by one of the newspapers, but it still
continues in a degree.
[7] A performance was advertised for a benefit, founded upon the
battle of Salamanca. In the front of the theatre, on the evening
previous, a transparency was exhibited, representing the discomfited
French pursued by Wellington and his troop: they had, likewise, a
British flag hoisted. All this was too much for Monsieur to bear; and
a scuffle took place, in an attempt to haul the flag down. On the play
night, an O.P. row was expected, but all went off quietly.
The British are not great patrons to the theatre: they assign, as a
cause, the want of attraction; but business, and their inclination
to society among themselves, are perhaps the chief reasons of their
neglect. There are, however, a number of Englishmen, who find relief
from the cares of business, and are constant attendants at the theatre;
some of them, without any fixed object, stroll about, earnestly gazing
at the pretty girls, whom they designate by particular names. I have
been much amused, when they have pointed out to me the different ladies,
under their fixed appellations; as, Imogen, Euphrosyne, Discretion,
Corinna, Zenobia, the Greeks, &c. One gentleman, Don Geronimo Salas,
they have named the King, from his great likeness to George the Fourth
of England. The resemblance is considerable; only that Don Geronimo is
not so corpulent as his Majesty. It is not every day we see men with
persons so corpulent as his Britannic Majesty and Don Geronimo: the
former (national prejudice apart) does indeed look like a king; the
latter is a very handsome man.
It is not uncommon to see infants a few months old, in the arms of their
mothers, and slaves, at the play.
The ladies attend the boxes in their most brilliant attire, combining
neatness with elegance, mostly in white; the neck and bosom partly
exposed, just enough to excite admiration, without alarming the most
fastidious modesty; a gold chain, or other ornament, is now and then
suspended from the neck; the dress, with short sleeves; the hair
tastefully arranged; a simple comb, and a few real or artificial flowers
braided about the hair.
On a full night, the theatre presents a spectacle of lovely women, that
a stranger would hardly expect. I have often contemplated them, with
their dark expressive eyes and raven hair, adding, if possible, more
beauty to countenances already so beautiful.
I think no city in the world, of the same population, can boast more
charming females than Buenos Ayres. Their appearance and brilliancy, at
the theatre, is not exceeded either at Paris or London; and I write from
a tolerable acquaintance with the theatres of both capitals. It is true,
the costly diamonds and waving plumes, that blaze from the persons of
the British and French fair, are not to be seen in Buenos Ayres: those
appendages, however, in my humble opinion, add not to female loveliness.
The theatre was re-opened on the 16th January, 1825, under the
management of Messrs. Rosquellas and others, after having been
closed two months for the purpose of repairs and alterations. Great
improvements have been made: the seats in the pit are covered with
crimson velvet; the whole interior of the house has been cleaned and
painted; the stage thrown more forward, and the orchestra enlarged. A
new drop-scene is exhibited, with the arms of the country and other
devices painted upon it; and, from being better lighted, the theatre
has now a neat appearance.
The operatic department constitutes the chief attraction of the theatre:
in this they have Rosquellas, Vacani (the renowned _buffo_), the younger
Vacani, Vera, the two Señoras Tanis, and Doña Angelina Tani, who sings
as exquisitely as ever. Vacani, upon his re-appearance, after a short
absence, was hailed with shouts of approbation, and bouquets of flowers
thrown upon the stage.
In the dance, we have Touissaint, his wife, and a corps de ballet,
including some Portuguese comic dancers from Rio Janeiro. Regular
ballets of action now take place, in lieu of the pas de deux, and pas
seul, of one or two principal dancers.
Under the old Spanish regime, the season of Lent was the most gloomy
part of the year; it is now the gayest: we have operas and ballets two
and three times a week, to delighted audiences; selections from _The
Barber of Seville_, _Figaro_, _Henry IV._ &c. the orchestra led by
Masoni, the skilful Masoni, whose talent draws forth raptures of
applause.
It is in contemplation to get up regular operas, instead of detached
pieces: _Don Giovanni_ has been mentioned--Rosquellas to be the hero; he
would both look and perform it admirably, at least to those who have not
seen Ambrogetti.
At the theatre door, on performance nights, several handsome carriages
are now to be seen, with lighted lamps and well-dressed servants,
belonging to English and other families. When I arrived, in 1820,
scarcely one was in existence. Were a Spaniard to revisit this place,
after an absence of a few years, he would feel surprised at the
alteration; the rigid fasts of the church laid aside for innocent
enjoyments, the hum of business greeting his ear, and European strangers
every where meeting his eye. Old Spain's ancient dominion of Buenos
Ayres is gone for ever: a few of the old school may yet cling to the
mother country; but the grand mass of the people, especially the younger
branches, are decidedly patriots.
An amateur performance took place, on the 21st February, 1825, for
the benefit of the widows and orphans of those who had fallen in the
revolutionary wars. It was a full house, and profitable--the reverse
of Silvester Daggerwood's. Orders are not admitted to the Buenos
Ayres theatre. The play was _Virginius_; and the different parts were
sustained by gentlemen of the city, in a style so creditable, as to put
to the blush the regular actors.
A North-American Frenchman, named Stanislaus, last from the Havannah,
has given several exhibitions at the theatre upon galvanism,
slight-of-hand, &c. aided by machinery, the best I have seen of the
sort. His performance was more than upon a par with our English
professors. The natives declared, he must have dealings with the devil;
or how could he transport handkerchiefs from the pockets of individuals
in the theatre to the lofty towers of the Cabildo, in the Plaza? and
this, they asserted, he had done. Stanislaus was rewarded with good
houses. His pronunciation of the Spanish language excited bursts of
laughter; it was a mixture of Spanish, French, and English.
A Lecture on Astronomy was attempted; but it did not meet with the
success it merited, either from a want of taste for this instructive
science, or that the audience conceived the theatre an improper place.
The lecturer reading his part, diminished the effect.
* * * * *
An Englishman (Bradley) has a CIRCUS, which is sometimes open on Sunday
afternoons, and on saints' days. Bradley is a decent horseman and clown;
but he has to contend with many disadvantages.
* * * * *
BRITISH RESIDENTS.--Before entering into a detail of the manners and
customs of the native or Spanish part of the population, I shall take
some notice of the various FOREIGNERS who have become residents in this
city. Of these the most numerous are the ENGLISH: I have heard, that the
province of Buenos Ayres contains, of men, women, and children, 3500
British individuals, according to a census taken in 1822.
The British merchants are a respectable body in Buenos Ayres: the
commerce of the country is chiefly in their hands; and, taking the
clerks, servants, and others employed in their barraccas, or hide
warehouses, as well as in their houses, the numbers are very imposing.
Most houses have a Spanish clerk, who (as well as his English brethren)
generally boards and lodges in the house.
The following is a list of the British mercantile establishments at
present existing in Buenos Ayres:--
Messrs. Brown, Buchanan, and Co. Agents for Lloyd's.
Dickson, Montgomery, & Co.
M'Crackan and Jamieson.
Miller, Eyes, and Co.
Miller, Robinson, & Co.
Winter, Britain, & Co.
Plowes, Noble, & Co.
Duguid and M'Kerrell.
Bertram, Armstrong, & Co.
Heyworth and Carlisle.
William P. Robertson & Co.
Anderson, Weir, & Co.
Tayleure, Cartwright, & Co.
William Hardesty & Co.
Joseph and Joshua Thwaites.
John Gibson & Co.
Hugh Dallas & Co.
Peter Sheridan.
John Appleyard.
Messrs. John Bailey.
C. S. Harvey.
Thomas Eastman.
Thomas Fair.
Thomas Nelson.
Green and Hodgson.
Richard and William Orr.
Jump and Priestley.
Stewart and M'Call.
John Ludlam.
James G. Helsby.
Henry Hesse.
John M'Dougall & Co.
John Harratt & Co.
R. B. Niblett.
Daniel Mackinlay.
Thomas Barton.
George Macfarlane.
Stephen Puddicomb.
Robert Utting.
Most of the above houses have their corresponding firms at Rio Janeiro,
Monte Video, Chili, and Peru, forming an immense link, of no mean
importance, to the trade of Great Britain.
Our merchants, in Buenos Ayres, are not only land and stock-holders;
but, since the establishment of the Bank, they have become Bank
Directors. In thus identifying themselves with the country, I am
persuaded, they will not forfeit one iota of their independence.
In 1821, the British merchants in Buenos Ayres advanced to the Buenos
Ayrean government a sum of money, by way of loan, which was punctually
repaid, contrary to the expectations of many; for as this money was lent
only a few months after a revolution, when Ramirez and Carrera were in
the field, threatening the province, its return was problematical.
The majority of the British merchants are natives of Scotland,
proverbial for their talent and activity in trade. Without being
accused of undue partiality, I may safely assert, that our merchants do
honour to the country in which they are domiciled. Quoting the language
of Don Valentin Gomez, at the King's birth-day dinner, of April 23,
1823, "The English citizens have shewn themselves worthy of the
distinguished character they have acquired. In Buenos Ayres, they have
always been good fathers of families, and good guests. The province owes
them every protection."
The clerks in the mercantile houses are kept pretty closely to business,
from eight in the morning till near the same hour at night, holidays
excepted, which is fagging work.
Besides the merchants, there are a host of English shopkeepers. The
street of La Piedad is full of them; and they retail almost every
article that can be mentioned. In all parts of the city, the eye
continually meets with English, and their inscriptions in front of the
shops; as, _Zapatero Ingles_ (English Shoemaker), _Sastre_ (Tailor),
_Carpenteria_ (Carpenter), _Roloxero_ (Watchmaker), &c. &c.; and
the quantity of British subjects dispersed all over the country, as
collectors of hides, agriculturists, &c. is more than would be believed.
A trifling jealousy is, at times, to be observed amongst the natives,
at the numbers of the English resident here; the former supposing that
we have a monopoly of business, and drain the country of money. These
false reasoners in political economy cannot comprehend that, in trade,
obligations are mutual, and that for our goods we buy their produce,
often at a ruinous price. All increase of population to a new and
thinly-peopled country, like Buenos Ayres, just released from a
disgraceful thraldrom, ought to be viewed as a benefit: the well
informed know it to be so.
The British medical practitioners at Buenos Ayres are--Drs. Leper,
Dick, Oughan,[8] Jenkinson, and Whitfield: the two last are
apothecaries. Drs. Leper and Dick are surgeons in his majesty's navy,
and are allowed to be men of talent, and have good practice.
[8] Dr. Oughan has returned to England, in the _Kingfisher_ packet:
some eccentricities in the doctor's conduct occasioned the British
consul to make application for his being sent home.
A physician here is not so profitable a concern as in England: the
guinea fee dwindles to a dollar per visit, though to a favourite doctor
they make presents. Once, in London, I remember seeing thirty single
guineas, for as many visits, lying upon a doctor's table, the result
of a morning's work; and this was thought but little, to pay for house
expences, carriage, &c.
A Medical Board has been formed here, which, a short time since,
examined into the qualifications of the different medical men,
propounding questions which, I am told, would have puzzled Esculapius
himself to answer. Two unfortunate Irishmen were caught in the trap,
and forbidden to practise. Paddy, at no time, likes his talent to be
depreciated: accordingly, one of them took up the pen, and wrote a long
philippic; the other did not confine himself to this, but made use of
language, in the full senate of medical sages, that consigned him to a
dungeon for three weeks, and he was afterwards banished the country. A
French doctor was suspended, for an error in the accouchement of a lady.
There is a North-American doctor (Bond), and plenty of native ones.
I should think this would be an excellent place for quack doctors;
indeed, they are beginning the trade already. A medicine called
_Panquimagoge_, invented by a man named Le Roy, "the immortal Le Roy,"
as the papers stated, was puffed up, as being a certain cure for
all complaints, equalling the miracles of Prince Hohenlohe. He who
doubted the efficacy of _Panquimagoge_, was rated an _ignoramus_. Its
discoverer, it was added, had a statue of gold erected to his memory in
the Havannah. During this infatuation, the medicine sold at an enormous
price; but the bubble soon burst: several persons became seriously
ill, and others absolutely lost their lives, by taking it. The former
enthusiasts looked quite "chop-fallen." Strange to say, several
Englishmen were the dupes of this quackery; indeed, the old and young,
healthy and infirm, all took _Panquimagoge_.
Several English have purchased _estancias_, or farms for breeding of
cattle; but, I fear, they will find some difficulty in competing with
the natives, who have every advantage over them in this branch of
commerce.
The British Commercial Subscription Room, in Buenos Ayres, is a concern
entirely British; and none but those of that nation are, by the laws
of the room, allowed to subscribe. The present subscribers are about
fifty-six; and it is supported at a moderate expence. It has been
established since the year 1810, and affords not only a relaxation,
but a source of continual information. A constant look-out is kept for
vessels arriving and departing; and entries are made of them, and sent
home. By means of excellent telescopes, national flags can be discerned
at a great distance. They have a constant supply of English newspapers:
the Courier, the Times, Morning Chronicle, Bell's Messenger, Liverpool
and other Gazettes, as well as those of Buenos Ayres, Price Currents,
Shipping List, Quarterly Review, Edinburgh Review, Navy List, and other
publications. The room contains the best maps of Arrowsmith, of the four
quarters of the globe; charts of the river Plate; a picture of Nelson's
death, finely executed, and another of the battle of Copenhagen.
A committee have the management of the room, but its general
superintendence devolves on the secretary. Correct mercantile
information can always be obtained there; and every stranger is at
perfect liberty to collect the news of the day, although, from the
nature of the institution, none but British subjects can subscribe.
To enjoy the privilege of reading in the rooms, the parties must be
regularly introduced by a subscriber.[9] All British residents of
respectability are expected to subscribe.
[9] Clerks are no longer permitted to enter the reading-room, unless
they subscribe, or make application to their employers for a ticket:
this they have declined to do, and keep aloof from the room, depriving
themselves of their chief source of amusement.
The members dine together once in every quarter, at Faunch's hotel, and
discuss the affairs of the society.
The British Commercial Room is held in the house of Mrs. Clark,[10] Dona
Clara; and what person has visited Buenos Ayres without hearing of this
lady--the "Lady Bountiful" of the place?
[10] Mrs. C. formerly possessed a handsome competence, gained by
keeping an hotel; but her fortune has been much reduced, by advances
made to her late husband, Captain Taylor, and by losses in different
speculations. She has now retired from business, and lives upon a
moderate annuity. Her adopted daughter, Dona Panchita, who is grown
a fine girl, resides with her. Captain Taylor was a visionary, yet a
good-hearted man; he died in October, 1822. I am informed that it was
he who first lowered the Royal Spanish flag, and hoisted the Patriot
flag, at the Fort, at the beginning of the revolution.
There is a library of English books attached to the room, consisting of
600 volumes, and which is every day increasing. It is a distinct affair;
and natives of all countries can subscribe to it. Several Creole
gentlemen, who speak English, North Americans, &c. belong to it. The
secretary to the Commercial Room acts as librarian.
Some individuals have attributed illiberality to the Commercial Room, in
not permitting those of other nations to become members; but, waiving
the right which the British have for an establishment of their own, if
they like to support it, Great Britain might be involved in war, and it
could not then be pleasant to come in daily contact with natives of
hostile countries.
Letters arriving by British vessels were, until October, 1821,
forwarded to the Commercial Room, which collected and paid the
government the postage; but this arrangement always caused great
jealousy to foreigners, and they are now sent to the Post Office, where
every facility is afforded. Many English letters, however, to persons
up the country, never reach their destination, from the practice of
allowing any one to take letters from the office who will pay for them:
mean curiosity has caused the loss of many letters by this mode.
The recent establishment of packets to Buenos Ayres (the first of which,
the Countess of Chichester, arrived on the 16th April, 1824) is an event
of some consequence. They bring the correspondence for Chili and Peru,
opening a direct and speedy communication with regions, which Spanish
jealousy, not many years ago, had shut out from the rest of the world.
The captains of these packets must not, for the present, expect to find
their employments to Buenos Ayres very lucrative: but little specie goes
home, and there are few passengers that can afford to pay the packet
price, which really is not exorbitant, considering the excellent
accommodations and fare provided; _viz._ For the cabin, £80 sterling;
steerage, £40. Their arrival is looked forward to with great anxiety
by all classes. At first, they made long passages; latterly, they
have improved in this respect: the _Lord Hobart_ packet came out in
forty-seven days; the _Eclipse_ brought thirteen passengers, chiefly
gentlemen connected with mining affairs. They will soon prove a
profitable employment to their commanders; and, certainly, the system
altogether reflects the highest credit upon the British government, the
only nation which has such an establishment.
The inclination which Englishmen, engaged in business, have, when at
home, to live away from the scene of their pursuits, at a short distance
from town, is shewn here; and we have the Stockwells, the Kenningtons,
the Newingtons, the Camberwells, &c. of Buenos Ayres, with the attached
farm-yards, orchards, and gardens, similar to those in the vicinity of
London, wanting only the stages, and the eighteen-penny ride from the
Bank and Gracechurch Street. Their houses may be easily recognized, from
the degree of neatness and comfort attached. The house of Mr. Fair,
situated upon an eminence near the water-side, southward of the Fort, is
a good land-mark. Mr. F. has lately built it at a considerable expence.
Mr. Cope's house, near the Retiro, I think the most pleasantly situated
of all.
The British have been engaged in numerous disputes with this government.
The last that occurred was in April, 1821, upon the decree ordering all
foreigners to take up arms; which the British very properly refused to
do, for it could not be expected they would submit to be made parties in
their quarrels. Captain O'Brien, of H.M.S. _Slaney_, then at anchor
in the outer roads,[11] was appointed British agent, and a long
correspondence took place. The affair was, however, settled by the
merchants, and Captain O'Brien felt displeased, conceiving that, having
been thrust forward officially, every arrangement ought to have come
through him. This quarrel caused some stir in Buenos Ayres. One or
two members of the Junta threatened us lustily; but those Tybalts
were silenced by the moderate party. Since then, Mr. Rivadavia's
administration has made every thing go on amicably and smoothly.
[11] The _Slaney_ was stationed in the outer roads, from January,
1821, to February, 1822. Captain Stanhope assumed the command in
October, 1821, Captain O'Brien having been promoted. A laughable event
happened during her stay in the outer roads:--She was accustomed to
signalize with the shore. One day, a black fellow was ordered to
whitewash the wall from which the signals were made on land: he was
mistaken by those on board for a signal ball; and, by a reference,
his position corresponded with the order, to bend sails. Accordingly,
the boatswain piped all hands, and never were sails bent with more
dispatch: the crew, tired of their monotonous life, felt eager to
leave, and with alacrity obeyed the command. During this time, Blackee
had taken another position on the wall: book opened again--it made
the number, to unmoor the ship. This corroboration of the first order
was hailed with joy. Another movement was imperfectly understood; it
seemed to convey--send a boat on shore for the captain; and a boat was
sent for explanation. Captain O'Brien was astonished: the wall was
examined; and there they found the black man harmlessly pursuing
his work, unconscious of the important part he had been performing,
exposed to the ardent gaze, and raising the beating hearts, of 150
men. At a distance of eight miles from the shore, a mistake of this
sort cannot surprise. The crew were greatly disappointed, and, taking
hold of one of their shipmates, a black man, declared that, as they
amused themselves on land by making signals with one of his colour, he
should be the answering pennant.
The dispute between Captain Willes, of H.M.S. _Brazen_, and the
government of Buenos Ayres, caused a considerable bustle. Captain W. was
ordered, by his instructions, to board all vessels of his nation upon
their arrival; in the execution of which, his boat was fired upon by the
gun-brig stationed outside. Other disagreements took place; and Captain
W. was ordered to quit the shore in two hours. He did so. When on board,
fruitless efforts took place to accommodate matters. The boats of
H.M. ship took possession of their brig, and sent her to the inner
roads. The public mind was inflamed by a string of falsehoods and
misrepresentations published in the _Centinella_ newspaper; the doors of
one or two English houses had threatening placards stuck upon them; and
a list was handed about for signatures, to avenge the insult offered
to their flag. I am not aware, if they meant to attack the _Brazen_;
volunteers for such an expedition, I should think, would have been
scarce. The British addressed a note to Captain W. soliciting, that, if
consistent with his duty, he would leave Buenos Ayres, as the present
irritation might lead to extremes. The _Brazen_ sailed for Colonia; her
captain stating, that nothing but consideration for his countrymen on
shore should have tempted him so to do: and thus the affair ended.
The government had promised protection to British persons and property,
the quarrel being a private one; but retaliation would, no doubt, have
taken place, had Captain Willes remained, and seized any of their
vessels. The Buenos Ayres government were somewhat precipitate in their
proceedings, and wanting in their respect to the officer of a nation,
which, if not in alliance, was on terms of strictest friendship with
them. It was regretted by many, that Captain Willes refused to come on
shore, when solicited by Mr. Rivadavia. Our captain was sadly hampered
by what he conceived to be his duty, and the alarm on shore. Those
gentlemen who had been long settled in the country, with their wives and
families, wished, I have no doubt, that the Brazen had been a thousand
miles off, particularly the female branches; though none, I trust,
possessed spirits so mean, as to brook insult for the enjoyment of
present comfort.
The outer roads had long been an object of dispute. I regret that, in
this instance, it should have deprived us of the society of an officer,
whose amiable manners and disposition delight all who have the happiness
of knowing him. At Monte Video, Captain Willes was literally adored. I
do not think the British would have been seriously molested, for they
had numerous friends in the town, and Captain Willes was not without his
advocates. A pamphlet, shortly after, appeared, said to be written by an
Englishman, exposing the malevolence of the _Centinella_.
The appointment of consuls will prevent these disputes in future. Our
naval officers are not the best diplomatists; they would, as a member in
the House of Commons observed, "much rather fight than write."
Some Germans, in Buenos Ayres, were in a terrible fright, lest they
should be taken for Englishmen, when the supposed work of retaliation
should begin. In complexion and appearance, they much resemble us, and
they nearly all speak English. Germans and Americans are all denominated
Englishmen by the natives; they cannot find out the distinction.
A Creole boy once told me, that he supposed every body to be my
countryman, that could say, _How do you do?_ in English.
In the little disagreements that take place on the beach between the
sailors and the natives, the term _English brute_ is always applied to
the former. These disputes are rare, for our sailors do not mix much
amongst them.
Mr. Woodbine Parish, the British consul-general for Buenos Ayres,
seems well adapted for the station he fills: his manners are mild and
gentlemanly. The two vice-consuls, Messrs. Griffiths and Pousset,
share in the same praise; the latter, in countenance and figure, much
resembles the royal family; if he were a trifle more portly, one might
fancy him the Duke of York.
The different states of this part of South America, such as Entre Rios,
Cordova, Santa Fe, Mendoza, &c. sent Members, to attend the congress in
Buenos Ayres, empowering the government to act for them in the treaty
with England; which, after considerable discussion, has been signed and
ratified. Mr. Parish, attended by the vice-consuls and other gentlemen,
went in state to pay his respects to the governor upon the occasion. The
reception of the consul was, of course, flattering: the flag was hoisted
at the fort, and a gun fired. The clause which caused most debate in the
congress, was that of religious toleration. Some of the members seemed
alarmed. It was, however, allowed, with free liberty for Protestants to
build their own places of public worship. This is something gained from
ancient prejudices. I have not, however, a high opinion of English
devoutness in Buenos Ayres. We have now a sort of prayer, or methodist
meeting, held in a private house. A captain of a Liverpool brig brought
out some religious tracts, which he circulated, and hoisted the Bethel
flag in his vessel: I fear he found Buenos Ayres an uncongenial spot for
those subjects.
Another article in this treaty which has given general satisfaction, is,
that no British subject shall be compelled to military service. In any
disputes upon this topic, the British have been the only foreigners
who have stood forward to resist it; the others have remained passive
spectators.
On Sundays and holidays, the British and American consuls hoist the
flags of their respective nations from the tops of their houses. The
Buenos Ayres flag floats by the side of the American: Colonel Forbes,
like a skilful manager, studies the taste of the town.
I have noticed, that many of my countrymen, in their desire to visit
their native land, still talk of returning to Buenos Ayres. They
certainly must feel some attachment to a country in which they have
lived happily for a series of years. Eight or ten years of absence from
home makes a great alteration amongst our dearest friends; some are
dead, and others are absent, or indifferent. In England, too, every one
must be content to mix with the crowd.
A great many of the English are perfect masters of the Spanish language,
having obtained their knowledge of it by a long residence in the
country, and by coming to it at a very early age. I have been surprised
at the quickness with which English children learn it: in a few months
they are able to carry on a conversation, whilst those of riper age take
years to attain it. When a man gets near thirty years of age, he feels
little inclination to study languages.
In mentioning any thing of the English females in Buenos Ayres, I feel
a delicacy bordering on timidity, and ought to recollect the homely
proverb, "The least said is the soonest mended." Certain, however, it
is, that, with some exceptions, they are not a fair specimen of our
country. Those placed in the higher circles are few in number, and
appear to be amiable women, as are many whom I will take the liberty of
calling the second class; but with respect to the lower orders, I can
only say, that I have been more than once reminded of the neighbourhood
of St. Giles's. In reply to some remarks of a Spanish lady, I mustered
courage to tell her, that, in spite of all the charming women of Buenos
Ayres, we had those at home who equalled, if not far surpassed them; of
which I would speedily convince her, could I, with Harlequin's wand,
waft her to my country, where they may be seen in all their charms of
beauty and splendour; and that the few who traversed the ocean, formed
no criterion, a voyage to South America being rather a serious
undertaking for a lady.
In commenting upon the dowdy appearance which some of the British
females make in this country, I am not singular;--all my countrymen
converse upon it, and join me in my opinion.
Families should never think of bringing pretty unmarried servant girls
with them from Europe; they are almost sure of losing them. Be the girls
ever so determined, they will find a difficulty in resisting the offers
of marriage from the numerous English bachelor mechanics, who are at a
sad loss for wives:--a Spanish wife is not to their taste. Therefore,
those who wish to keep their servants, must choose the ugliest they can
procure--something that may be an antidote to the warm passions of
our English Damons. An importation of British females with tolerable
personal charms would answer here, as well as in many other places
abroad. I wish some adventurer would beat up for recruits amongst the
nursery maids at the west end of the town in London; it would be an
excellent speculation, and serve the poor girls into the bargain.
Several Englishmen have married Buenos Ayrean ladies; and, from all
accounts, they do not repent having done so. The worst of it is, in
marrying into Spanish families, one may be said to marry all the family,
for they expect to reside under the same roof. The English resist this,
and with success: the good sense of their wives will make them conform
to our ideas; yet the parting of a beloved daughter from the paternal
roof must be a painful task for parents, whose only consolation is in
yielding her to the arms of the man she loves.
Englishmen married to Spanish females have been, in a degree, obliged to
conform to the Catholic ceremonies of marriage. The over-scrupulous will
start at this; but, if they have ever been in love, they will readily
conceive that these oaths of form may be swallowed with as much ease as
many of the absurd ones of our Custom-House. The difference of religion,
in liberal minds, cannot in any way disturb domestic harmony: we differ
only in forms.
So great were religious prejudices not many years ago, that a lady would
have hesitated, and her family interfered to prevent a marriage with one
of "heretic creed." The alteration is a credit to their understandings;
it evinces that they are neither bigots nor fanatics. A generation of
children are now springing up, half English, half Creolian, speaking
both languages; their fathers teaching them English, their mothers
Spanish. Could we look a few years forward, and see these youngsters
grown to maturity, loving the land of their birth, and having a yearning
towards that of their fathers, what important consequences may not
result, in cementing friendships between nations that once regarded each
other with a rooted dislike.
Englishmen who have married in this country, I should presume, intend
making it their adopted land. It is an alternative that would cause
me to pause: I could not consent to lose the hope of again seeing my
paternal home. Now, if I could fancy such an event, as taking my Buenos
Ayrean wife with me to London, lodging her in some fashionable mansion
near Grosvenor Square, or in the Square itself--visiting the Opera and
all the Theatres--pointing out to her Rossini, Catalani, our Braham,
Stephens, Kean, and Macready, and explaining their different talents,
poor Rosquellas, and the Señoras Tani, would be quite forgotten; and,
instead of a ride on the Barracca Road, or to San José de Flores, San
Isidro, &c. conducting her along the Queen's Road to Putney, Richmond,
or Windsor--taking a stroll with her in Kensington Gardens--Heavens!
whither will my imagination lead me? and why cannot I persuade some
kind-hearted Creolian to give me his daughter, and two hundred thousand
dollars, in return for the fond love I should lavish on her?
The marriages of English people have been performed by captains of
vessels of war, or in the presence of two or three merchants, whose
signatures are said to be sufficient acts of parliament. The residence
of a consul will obviate some of these difficulties.
The British community, in Buenos Ayres, lost one of its chief ornaments,
by a melancholy suicide, which took place in December, 1824--that of
Mr. Dallas, who cut his throat with a razor: disappointment in business
is stated to be the cause. He has not left his equal in Buenos Ayres;
his character fully warranted that expressive term in the English
language--a perfect gentleman.
The death of Mr. Rowcroft, in Peru, caused infinite regret amongst
the British in Buenos Ayres, by whom he was much respected. He was,
probably, the first alderman of the city of London that ever crossed the
Andes. It was hard to meet his death by the bullets of foreign soldiery.
It is some consolation, that accident alone caused the fatal affair. It
is said, that he was taken for a Spanish officer, Mr. R. being clothed
in his uniform as Colonel of the City Light Horse, a dress he appeared
particularly proud of.
A son of Sir Robert Wilson arrived here, and went to Peru; but he soon
returned, and went to the Brazils, in order to join his father's friend,
Lord Cochrane.
Amongst my countrymen in this city, may be found some very eccentric
characters, who would be accounted originals even at home.
Who has visited Buenos Ayres without having heard of the noisy drunken
Englishman, Jack Hall, the Caleb Quotem of the town, and who, in
appearance and dress, looked as if he had just escaped from Newgate.
Poor Jack died in July, 1824, and was carried to the grave in his own
cart, which had, for a series of years, borne so many of his countrymen
to their last abode, and on that account was called "the English
hearse." Hall was a Jack of all trades, painter, glazier, whitewasher,
&c. &c. The Spaniards, when he first arrived amongst them, viewed him as
a prodigy.
Irishmen naturalized into American citizens, or what are called "Irish
Yankies," from time to time pass through Buenos Ayres, on their route to
different parts: I have known several. It is heart-rending to think,
that political events should thus have estranged men from their native
country, and made them its bitterest enemies. It is true, they "rail
against a rock they cannot pull down." If an excuse can be found for
them, it is that the hopes of their youth have been blighted, and that
oppression has made them aliens to their native land. North Americans
remark, that those who abuse Great Britain most in the United States
are our own countrymen. I believe it; and in the falsification of their
long-told predictions of England's downfall, there is a wider field
opened for their hate, and to brood upon what is to happen to ill-fated
England.
As regards some Irishmen whom I have known (or, if it must be so, "Irish
Yankies"), I sincerely regret that I cannot embrace them, take them by
the hand, and call them countrymen. I have noticed them to be men of
warm imaginations; and when listening to any detail of Irish intrepidity
in the French war--and where is it that Irish blood has not flowed in
torrents for the cause of Great Britain?--their hearts appeared elated,
and they knew every Irish officer who had distinguished himself; they
spoke of his deeds with rapture, and, for the moment, assumed their
natural character of British subjects;--for, say what they will, a man
feels little enthusiasm in the glories of any nation but his own. I
congratulated one upon the change in his ideas:--he started; "No," said
he, "I regret not the past; I am, and ever will remain, an American
citizen."
* * * * *
There are three NORTH-AMERICAN mercantile houses--Mr. Ford; Zimmerman
and Co.; and Stewart and M'Call. The residents are few, excepting
the casual visitors. I find a difficulty in distinguishing them
from Englishmen, though a Creole friend of mine pretended to do it,
describing the Americans as generally wearing white hats, spectacles,
and carrying a stick. This observation I afterwards found tolerably
correct. We laugh at their phrases--"I guess,"--"I calculate,"--"I
expect," &c.; and they retort upon our continual use of "You know,"
in conversation. It will be well for the two nations, if their future
differences consist only in laughing at each other's peculiarities of
speech.
The North Americans carry on a considerable trade in this river, and
have brought some valuable cargoes from China and India. Flour, lumber,
a few dry goods, soap, &c. are their general import; salt vessels also
arrive from the Cape de Verd, which article is at times very profitable.
Now and then the domestic manufactures of North America are brought to
this market; but the profit of them, if any, must be very small. The
immense capital, machinery, and talent of England, must for a long time
give her the advantage over every other nation; and as regards North
America, I should not suppose it would answer her purpose to divert
her population from the health-inspiring pursuits of agriculture to a
pernicious manufacture. Their chief commerce is in flour; and owing
to one or two bad harvests in this province, the advantages have been
great. It has been sold at thirty dollars per barrel; the cost in North
America being only seven or eight. During the year 1823, upwards of
70,000 barrels of flour was thus imported into Buenos Ayres. For a
country so luxuriant in soil to be dependent upon foreigners for bread,
appears strange; but agriculture is yet young in South America.
The North-American trade is mostly carried on in ships with supercargoes:
the captains are a superior set of men. But few English ships arrive;
they are nearly all brigs, commanded by our roughest seamen: but these
brigs often contain valuable cargoes. The Americans manage to run about
the world with small cargoes. A number of their vessels come here for
the purpose of being sold and broken up; which seems to be a good
speculation, if we may judge from the number hauled upon the beach for
that purpose: those ships that cut such a dashing figure at first sight,
have only "a goodly outside, but are rotten within."
The circumstance of North America having been the first to acknowledge
the independence of this province has not insured to her any particular
commercial privileges. In a coffee-house, one evening, I witnessed a
serious debate amongst some Creolians; one of them, in the heat of
argument, asserted that the acknowledgment by North America was of no
more consequence to the state, than if the province of Santa Fé had done
so. The acknowledgment by Spain and England is what materially interests
them: North America, however, has decidedly paved the way for this.
Although there are a great many North-American mechanics, yet we find
very few of them have shops of their own in Buenos Ayres. In the
manufacture of boots, shoes, hats, &c. as well as dry goods, they must
yield the palm to us. In the stores, a preference is given to English
hams, cheeses, &c.; but I have tasted American articles of this
description, of good quality. The Americans, aware of the partiality,
pass off many of their goods as English; and I have purchased American
soap with the British crown impressed upon it.
Perhaps in no part of the world has such a marked distance been kept
between Americans and Englishmen as in Buenos Ayres; but this, I rejoice
to observe, is subsiding. Both parties are to blame. The English are
said to be the most conceited nation on earth; it may be true, but our
North-American friends have a touch of that quality likewise. When told
of this; their reply, that "their vices they inherit from us; their
virtues are peculiarly their own."
Mr. Rodney, the minister from North America, departed this life on the
10th of June, 1824. His death was sudden, from an attack of apoplexy.
The evening previous to his decease, he had a large assemblage of
visitors at his house. He was a plain republican of the old school, and
much esteemed by all parties: he has left a large family. The government
of Buenos Ayres evinced the most marked respect to his memory.[12]
Colonel Forbes is the Secretary of Legation: he has been in Buenos Ayres
since October, 1820, and acted as agent to the United States till the
arrival of Mr. Rodney.
[12] The following are extracts from the decrees issued by the
government on the occasion:--
"A sepulchral monument, at the expense of the government, shall be
raised over the remains of the Honourable Cæsar Augustus Rodney, as a
memorial of gratitude.
"In the funeral rites to be observed towards so distinguished a
citizen, the following orders shall be executed. A Battalion of
Infantry, with four pieces of Light Artillery, shall be stationed at
the place where the body is to be buried. As the corpse leaves the
house of his decease, the fort shall fire a national salute. Another
similar salute shall be executed by the Light Artillery, on the entry
of the corpse into the cemetery. On putting it into the grave, the
battalion being formed, shall fire a general discharge.
"The general staff of the army, and the chiefs of all the departments,
shall be invited to meet at the house of the government, to accompany
the ministers during the said funeral rites."
The funeral was the grandest thing of the sort ever seen in this
country. A great concourse of people of all nations attended, on
horse and foot; not the least remarkable of whom were the Catholic
clergymen. In the detail published of the ceremonies, we read the
following observations:--
"In addition to the civil authorities who attended, it was peculiarly
pleasing to all the Protestants, to observe the public respect shewn
by the attendance of the head of the church, and many of the most
distinguished Catholic clergymen, the Rector of the University,
&c.; proclaiming, in the most unequivocal manner, the increasing
liberality of this Catholic people. They had, before, kindly granted
the Protestants the privilege of a burial-ground; and on this
occasion they attended, with the greatest respect, to all the
exercises of the funeral, and mingled their sympathies with our's.
Their high-minded example in this instance is at once indicative
of the elevation and nobleness of their character, and worthy the
imitation of Christians of every name and country."
Mr. Rivadavia made an oration over the grave; the concluding words
ran thus:--
"Illustrious soul of Cæsar Augustus Rodney! return to the bosom
of thy Creator, with the elevation and confidence to which you
are entitled. Being his image here on earth, separate not thy
compassionate regard from this country, which is so highly honoured
in preserving your remains. Yes, we will preserve them, as the most
precious treasure that this soil can receive." [_Taking some earth in
his hand._] "And thou earth! that art going to cover these venerable
remains, receive also the honour of being mingled with the most
fruitful seeds of virtue, and cause it to produce similar heroes,
that may immortalize the American name."
* * * * *
The FRENCH are numerous in Buenos Ayres; report says, they are equal in
number to the British, but I do not believe it. Their trade here, what
there is of it, must be advantageous: they bring every requisite for the
ladies' toilet; fans, silk stockings, perfumery, scented waters, gloves,
jewellery, and those nic-nacs in which the French so much excel. Some
shops make a great figure in French goods, as silks, shawls, and every
essential to gratify female taste. Roquin, Meyer, & Co. is the chief
mercantile French house; but there are numbers of Buenos Ayrean and
other firms, that import largely from France, as do also some English
houses.
There are many gentlemanly and intelligent men amongst the French
settled in Buenos Ayres; but the mass will not bear a comparison with
the British in point of respectability. Frenchmen themselves allow this,
and laugh at the billiard-markers and waiters of Parisian growth. The
superior class are to be found in the best societies of the city. Their
lively manners and conversation have ever been a contrast to the reserve
of the English; and, as companions, they may be more sought after than
my modest countrymen: a Frenchman is at home in all countries.
The English likewise visit the first families, and give at times
splendid entertainments, or _tertulias_; yet, I have fancied, they
appear more happy when amongst themselves. Their behaviour has been
attributed to pride and many other causes: the French term "_mauvaise
honte_," affords a better solution. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, I
am convinced, the British character is esteemed; and, however the French
may beat us in companionship, they cannot deprive us of that esteem.
The news of Napoleon's death caused great tribulation in French society
at Buenos Ayres. It was some time ere they would believe it; it must be
a trick, they said, of the English; and until the causes of his death
became so well authenticated, expressions of foul play were more than
whispered. Their love for this "man of blood" has ceased to astonish
me: were I a Frenchman, it is probable I should love him too.[13] On
Bonaparte's birth-day, in 1821, I observed the tri-coloured flag, waving
from a French _pulperia_ near the beach. This flag, once so formidable,
and which made every Briton prepare for "bloody fight," now floats
harmlessly in Buenos Ayres, being used as a signal for merchant vessels.
[13] A translation of O'Meara's work, in French, has appeared in
Buenos Ayres, with the consequent conclusion, that Sir Hudson Lowe
must be a perfect brute. In Spanish, we have one or two diatribes
against the British government, and their tyranny exercised on the
seas; but the malignity so apparent in the observations destroys their
effect.
* * * * *
A great many PORTUGUESE are residents of Buenos Ayres, as merchants,
shopkeepers, &c.; they carry on a constant commerce with the Brazils.
The jealousy, bordering upon contempt, in which the Spaniards affect
to hold the Portuguese, is very conspicuous here. At the theatre,
when a Portuguese character is represented, the performer is arrayed
fantastically, strutting about the stage with self-assumed importance,
amidst vehement laughter and applause, as fervent and more boisterous
than that bestowed upon Sheridan's "little cunning Portuguese," Isaac
Mendoza.
* * * * *
GERMANS, ITALIANS, and, indeed, the natives of all countries, are to be
met with in Buenos Ayres, as merchants, store and shopkeepers, &c.
Mr. Schmaling, agent to the PRUSSIAN _Linen Company_, has lately
established an extensive mercantile house in Buenos Ayres. The Prussian
cloths and flannels have been bought with much avidity, a preference
being given to them from their being cheaper, and some say better than
our's. Mr. S. sold his cloths 20 per cent. cheaper than the English
could afford to sell. It is hard to be undersold in a foreign market, in
what was once considered our staple commodity. British skill, however, I
have no doubt, will surmount this temporary advantage: the repeal of the
wool tax may be one step towards it.
* * * * *
PERSONS, DISPOSITIONS, and MANNERS of the NATIVE or SPANISH
INHABITANTS.--It might be supposed, from the latitude in which Buenos
Ayres is situated, that the faces and general appearance of the natives
would partake of a dusky hue: as regards the male sex, this is certainly
the case, though here and there the reverse is seen. Of the females,
however, many can boast a countenance of roses and lilies, equal to
those of a colder climate. Amongst the mulatto cast, there are some
pretty girls. I have noticed that some distinctions are kept up,
the word _mulatto_ being often used as a term of reproach: this is
illiberal. One or two families of red-haired children are rather
remarkable in a country where the darker hue predominates. I really
thought they were of Scotch extraction, till I was informed to the
contrary. Some scandalous wits have dared to be jocular on the occasion,
asserting that they must be the offspring of Beresford's Scotch
regiment, the 71st, who were here in 1806.
It is rarely we see, in Buenos Ayres, a person marked with the small
pox, vaccination being generally practised;[14] and very few deformed
people. Indeed, the generality of them may be called handsome. The young
men are well grown, possess good figures, and their manners render them
truly agreeable.
[14] Foreign nations duly appreciate this invaluable discovery. In
England alone, the birth-place of its immortal author, a portion (I
believe, a very small one) still persist in denying its efficacy: "A
prophet is no prophet in his own country."
Faces may be seen here, of female beauty, worthy a painter's study;--the
intelligent dark eye, polished forehead, and persons moulded by grace
itself. England is called the land of beauty, and it deserves its name;
but beauty is not peculiar to England alone. Buenos Ayres contains
within its walls as much loveliness as imagination can dream of.[15]
[15] Conspicuous amongst the fair-haired beauties of Buenos Ayres, is
the Senorita Dona Segunda Iglesia. This young lady (and she is not yet
sixteen) is a perfect Hebe. Dona Isaaca, her sister, two years younger
than herself, forms a charming counterpart of the fair Segunda.
Another accomplished and elegant girl, whom we Englishmen have named
the Marchioness (from her likeness in face to the Marchioness of
Hertford), attracts much admiration. She is an enthusiast in music:
at the theatre, when the orchestra performs any of her favourite
airs, her animated countenance evinces the emotion which this divine
science inspires.
The stately elegance of walk, for which the Spanish ladies are so
remarkable, is in no place more conspicuous than in Buenos Ayres; and it
is not confined to the upper class--females of all descriptions possess
it; one must therefore conclude it to be an acquired accomplishment. If
my fair countrywomen would deign to imitate them in this respect, and
get rid of that ungraceful postman-like pace they now have, I should
love them all the better.
The inhabitants possess a happy medium between French vivacity and
English reserve. An Englishman feels at home with them; for should he be
deficient in the language, he need not fear that his blunders will be
laughed at. In sickness, they are proverbial for their kind attention,
as many of my countrymen have experienced, preparing every little
delicacy they think will please. It is only to know these people, to
esteem them.
Their happy disposition, and having so few real cares, protect them
from suicide, that calamity which afflicts populous Europe. The future
provision for a family, indeed, scarcely enters their thoughts, in a
country where "a fathom of beef can be purchased for sixpence." This
expression was used by an English "beach-ranger," when trying to prevail
upon some of a Falmouth packet's crew to desert.
Although there may be families who, in the common acceptation of
the term, are well off, yet I do not think there are many who are
extraordinarily rich, that is to say, worth from 30 to £50,000 sterling.
Houses, cattle, and land constitute the best property.
The enthusiasm with which the Spaniards regard the female sex, like most
other things, has, doubtless, been exaggerated. In Buenos Ayres, if they
have not exactly caught this enthusiasm, they have done better: their
attentions are founded on real respect to the virtues of the sex, and
are therefore more likely to last.
The character given to Spaniards of all descriptions for jealousy of
their females, must have been either fabulous, or a great change has
taken place; for nothing approaching to it can be observed in their
descendants here. The gentlemen conduct themselves with the most marked
politeness towards the females, paying them the greatest attention and
respect. I have heard it asserted, that they make negligent husbands. In
every populous city, no doubt, many of this class are to be found; but
those Buenos Ayrean husbands, whom I have the pleasure of knowing, seem
devotedly attached to their wives, behaving with a tenderness not every
day found even in England, that land of domestic felicity.
The ladies appear equal in affection; and are kind and tender mothers.
It is pleasing to see the care and fondness they bestow on their
children. A stranger need not be a day in Buenos Ayres without
discovering this; and such traits speak volumes. They do not follow the
unmotherly practice of putting their infants out to nurse, thinking it
no disgrace to suckle their own offspring. In my opinion, there is as
fair a proportion of married happiness in this city, as can be found in
those that bear a name of being more domesticated.
The compliments of salutation are much the name as in England with the
gentlemen, _viz._ the good old hearty shake of the hand. The French
embrace of the males, kissing each other, is not followed; for which I
am better pleased. Much as I esteem my friends of Buenos Ayres, I wish
no other than female lips to touch my cheek. The salutation of the
females, on bidding adieu for long journeys, or on returning from one,
is kissing and embracing each other: in this respect they differ but
little from British females--perhaps a little more fervent. I have seen
ladies, when returned from a voyage to Monte Video, hug their old black
servant, who has come to meet them on the beach, with all the ardour of
affection, so different from our notions of propriety.
Should a lady be seized with a fit of yawning, she crosses herself with
the most burlesque sanctity. The style in which they cross themselves,
requires a rehearsal to understand it: they touch the cheeks, chin, and
bosom, quick, with the thumb, or, as a military man would denominate it,
"in double quick time."
A very pleasing practice exists, of giving flowers to visitors, as a
mark of respect: some fair lady hands a rose or tulip. I recollect, a
charming girl gave me a rose, a few days after my arrival, and my vanity
was not a little gratified by it; and I felt some mortification in
finding it was only the common civility of the place.
Smoking segars is a general practice--I might almost add, with men,
women, and children; the ladies of the better class always excepted,
though report says, they will, in secret, take the luxury of a segar. I
hope report has erred in this respect--indeed, I think it has; for such
an outrage against my English feelings, as a Buenos Ayrean lady smoking,
would abate much of the enthusiasm I feel for them. In the male sex I
like to see it; and the pleasure it seems to afford, has repeatedly made
me regret that I am no smoker. Here boys of eight, nine, and ten years
of age, may be seen smoking.
The English soon get into the fashion; and most of them are as fond of
the segar as the natives, who are smoking from the time they get up,
until they go to bed. If they ride on horseback, a segar is in their
mouths. Should they want a light in the streets, it is only to stop the
first person they meet smoking, to obtain one. I have often smiled to
see a first-rate Creolian dandy lighting his segar from that of some
dirty black fellow.
Havannah segars are the favourites; but they are dear, and not at all
times to be had in perfection. The paper ones, or segars de Hoja, made
from the tobacco-leaf, are mostly used, and by many preferred. The
manufacture of them affords employment to a great many people, including
females.
So refined are their ideas of politeness, that a person smoking
invariably takes the segar from his mouth, when passing another in the
street.
In another branch of politeness, Buenos Ayres is not outdone, even by
Paris itself; _viz._ the constant custom of taking off the hat, when
meeting each other in the street. The English mode of touching the hat
is too groom and footman-like, to be followed here: their's is taken
entirely from the head; and, when in compliment to ladies, they remain
uncovered until the objects of their politeness have passed. It is
managed gracefully--removing the hat from behind, similar to those
who are accustomed to wear wigs; it may be, to save the fronts from
dilapidation, which such continual calls on them would occasion.[16]
[16] I remember once meeting a Frenchman at Paris, whom I had known at
London in rather indifferent circumstances. He had obtained an office
in the palace of the Thuilleries; and, upon my congratulating him
thereon, he said, that it was all very well, except the d----d hat
business. On asking for an explanation, he stated, that, being a
public officer, he was obliged to take his hat off so often, that it
cost him £30 per annum for that single article.
The plant called _yerba_, the growth of Paraguay and the Brazils, is
the tea of Buenos Ayres. They drink it out of a small globe, to which
a tube is fixed, nearly as long as our tobacco-pipe; it is called the
matté-pot, and the beverage drawn from the yerba, is the _matté_. These
pots are generally of silver; and they hand them from one to the other,
in drinking--a practice not the most cleanly. When I first saw the tubes
in the ladies' mouths, I conceived they were smoking. Matté has not a
bad flavour, but nothing equal to tea. It is reported by some to be
pernicious to the teeth. In visiting parties it is always handed round.
It carries such an idea of the tobacco-pipe, that I do not much admire
seeing these matté-pots in the hands of ladies.
The general time of meals in Buenos Ayrean families is pretty nearly
as follows:--They have _matté_ the first thing, which they often take
in bed; at eight or nine, they have what we should call breakfast,
beef-steaks, &c.; dinner at two and three; _matté_ at six and seven,
followed often by a supper. The fashionable London hours of breakfasting
at one and two in the afternoon, and dining at eight and nine in the
evening, have not travelled to this quarter of the globe yet. They drink
wine out of tumbler glasses.
The _siesta_, or afternoon nap, is not so regularly taken as formerly:
they have got more into the habits of business, and cannot afford time
for sleeping in the day; and it does away with the remark, that, during
_siesta_ time, nobody is to be seen in the streets, but Englishmen and
dogs. The _siesta_ has its regular season; it is supposed to begin with
the summer season, in October, and end at the close of the summer, or
passion week. The plodding and industrious world cry out against this
practice, as encouraging sloth; but I think a nap after dinner, in warm
latitudes, both refreshing and conducive to health.
Houses are not provided with the convenience of bells: their servants
are summoned either by calling, or making a noise upon the tables. At
meals, the servants and slaves are in attendance at the table.
They retire to rest, in winter, at ten or eleven; in summer, later, as
at this season they enjoy the cool of the evening from the azoteas, or
from seats near the windows.
A walk in the streets on a fine summer's night is not uninteresting,
from the number of ladies walking and at the windows. Evening is the
time devoted by ladies to shopping. A night previous to a holiday or
Sunday, the shops are crowded.
In families of respectability, which have unmarried daughters, weekly
_tertulias_, or public dances, are often held during the winter, which,
they say, are for the purpose of shewing the young ladies off, and
getting them husbands: as I am not in the secret, I only give it as I
hear it.
These dances are got up at very little expence or preparation. One
of the ladies presides at the piano; the refreshments are cakes,
sweetmeats, and liqueurs: a few dollars provides for all; and I like
their plan--it looks more like a friendly entertainment. The sumptuous
repasts provided on such occasions in England, bespeak so much of
ceremony as considerably to mar the pleasure.
On birth-days, compliments are sent and received, with presents of
sweetmeats, &c. and dinners and tertulias are given. Those days are more
kept up than with us; but the itinerant musicians, about the doors, has
a little fallen off lately.
Sweetmeats are much eaten, and by the children in large quantities. In
coffee-houses they sprinkle the toast with sugar: an English child would
call them "sugar-babies." I am not dentist enough to decide whether
this is one of the causes of decayed teeth, so often observed in young
people, and the prevailing malady of the tooth-ache; but persons are
continually seen with their faces tied up for this complaint: it is,
indeed, a disease of the country. Bad teeth is a sad drawback, as they
are both "useful and ornamental;" and the purchase of new teeth and
gums, in Buenos Ayres, would be rather difficult: besides, all the world
must know about it. In London and Paris, such things pass as nothing.
When walking in public, the female rarely takes the arm of a gentleman,
except it be night. This seems to us an unsocial fashion. At dark,
however, the restriction ceases, and ladies will then honour us by
accepting our arm: with married persons this is more common. The
Englishman and his wife, in spite of Spanish modes, are seen trotting
comfortably along the Alameda, on a Sunday, arm-in-arm, as if at home.
Neither is it the fashion for gentlemen to escort the ladies, but to the
theatre, or public places: their visits and shopping are in company only
with their own sex. If a fair lady should wave this rule, and allow
us to proceed by their side for a few streets, it would be the height
of vulgarity to offer the arm. In England we have other notions of
gentility.
At the ball room, the females sit together, when not engaged in dancing.
During this pause, some gentleman will, with hesitating steps, approach
them, and solicit a lady to waltz, or dance a minuet with him.
The Spaniards pride themselves upon the delicacy and respect with which
they treat the females; and though there are many Spanish customs which
I think "more honoured in the breach than the observance," this is one,
I trust, will last for ever.
The Buenos Ayreans are passionately fond of dancing. Their evening hours
are given to this pastime: in their houses, daughters, mothers, nay,
grandmothers, will enjoy it with all the spirit of youth. To me it is
the most gratifying sight--a proof that age is not always accompanied by
moroseness. I have been delighted to see father, mother, daughters, and
sons, dancing with that apparent happiness, as if life had no other
object but enjoyment.
Walking in the environs of the town, one evening, a family dance
attracted my attention; and I looked through the windows. The ladies saw
me, and the master of the house came out, entreating me to enter, with
the Spanish compliment, "that his house and family were entirely at my
service." He seemed disappointed at my declining the invitation. These
evening family dances are very fascinating.
It is said, a Frenchman, from his gaiety, never gets old; the
observation applies with equal truth to this people. In our peculiar
England, education, climate, and the state of society, render its
inhabitants more thoughtful and care-worn: we regard as frivolity what
other nations consider the essentials of existence; yet, in general, we
are not the gloomy people foreigners would paint us. We can love, and
hate, too, with all or more of the fervour ascribed to warmer climes.
Of the dances, some are pretty. The steps of the Spanish dances have a
great sameness. The ladies appear graceful; but, indeed, when is it they
do not?
The _cielito_, or little heaven, is opened by the parties chaunting a
part of a song all the time in movement, and smacking their fingers
together; it then proceeds to the figure.
The _contre-danse_ is involved in intricacies and positions rather
difficult to a stranger; twisting the arms, and running in and out,
like the game of Thread-my-needle, or, excepting the tumbling part, the
comic dance in Mother Goose. The English contre-danse has more life and
variety both in music and figure.
Waltzing is a favourite: they have not read the lectures of our
moralists upon it, but indulge in the mazes of this luxurious dance.
The minuet dance here is, I think, tame and ungraceful.
The piano forte is the favourite musical instrument; and every
well-educated young lady is supposed to possess some knowledge of it.
I have heard them perform with great taste and skill. The young and
interesting daughter of Don Cornelius Saavedra, Doña Dominga, I thought,
excelled; and, with instruction, would be a proficient. This young lady,
with a countenance just "budding into beauty," has talents, which, if
properly cultivated, will adorn society. Her father, Don Cornelius, was
the first Director of the Province after the Revolution, and one of the
old and respectable families. His manners are very pleasing: in person,
he much resembles a British general officer. Like many others, he has
forsaken the sword for the ploughshare, and resides upon his estate,
ninety miles from town, on the banks of the Parana.
A good piano will sell for 1000 dollars: the English, in this likewise,
take the lead, and those of Clementi, Stodart, &c. are found in many
houses; Miss Saavedra has a fine-toned one of Clementi's. The French and
German pianos do not readily sell.
Male teachers of music (and, on mentioning these, the remark of
Anastasius occurs to me) find good employment in this city, where all
are so musical. An English lady, Miss Robinson, gives lessons on this
heavenly science.
The Consulado musical school-rooms, with the young ladies warbling
there on a morning, repeatedly attract the attention of the passing
pedestrian. At one o'clock, attended by their mammas and slaves, with
music-book under arm, those little syrens trudge home. On one or two
occasions, there has been a public trial of musical skill, a sort of
show-off before their relations and friends.
A musical subscription society, called The Philharmonics, has been
established, and the most respectable natives and foreigners are
subscribers. The vocal and instrumental performers from the theatre
attend there. It is a superior affair, and held in a spacious sala of
what was formerly a prison--the "Coona:" Orpheus has driven away the
ministers of justice.
Using an English phrase, the mothers of Buenos Ayres keep "a sharp
look-out" after their daughters, attending them to public places, and in
the streets. Should the mother, by any chance, be absent, the care is
probably delegated to a slave or servant, who may have their secret
orders whispered to them, as well as other trusty centinels. But cannot
the slave be bribed? If report speaks true, they are so; and the ardent
lover has been ready to embrace the black messenger that has conveyed to
him tidings from a beloved mistress.
Young ladies before marriage are, by some mothers, watched with great
strictness, not unlike austerity. I fear, females here, as well as in
other countries, have often given their hands without their hearts.
"Why did you marry?" said a friend of mine to a lady who seemed unhappy.
"To gain my liberty," she eagerly exclaimed, "as many others have done
before me."
Marriage with the Buenos Ayres female takes place at an early age,
frequently at thirteen and fourteen. Certain it is, they ripen into
womanhood much sooner than those of our clime; and their beauties more
quickly fade. An English female at forty looks as young as a Buenos
Ayrean at thirty. How many charming and attractive women we find in
England at the age of forty; and though I cannot quite agree with our
gracious sovereign in his admiration of "fair, fat, and forty,"
yet I have known, at home, some ladies at that age with charms and
acquirements sufficient to alarm a sensitive heart. In Buenos Ayres
I have likewise seen females whose beauty seems to improve as years
advance; but this is a rare occurrence.
In marriage, the custom of all the family living together seems strange
to English ideas, and we cannot help picturing petty jealousies and
quarrels amongst such a groupe. Custom, however, and their natural
happy temper, free from the corroding cares of more populous countries,
prevent these. I cannot help admiring their happiness in this respect,
and I trust they may long enjoy it. I know the misery I should feel,
were I a father, to see a beloved child depart for ever from the
parental roof.
Married females still preserve their maiden name, conjoined with that of
their husband's. The children by such marriage bear the surname of the
father. The saint's-day on which they may be born provides them with a
Christian name; and, as the Romish church has a saint for every day in
the calendar, the difficulties that the Rev. Mr. Shandy had to encounter
are avoided.
In the lottery of names, people of all classes take their chance. It is
rather droll to hear the black girls addressing each other by the names
of Eugenia, Marcela, Florencia, &c. Some fair ladies bear the pretty
romantic names of Rosaria, Irené, Magdalena, Victoria, Martina,
Fortunata, Celestina, Adriana, &c. whilst others, not so fortunate in
their time of coming into the world, are obliged to be content with the
ordinary ones of Juana, Tomasa, &c. But what is there in a name? a rose
would smell as sweet under any other name.
John is unquestionably the most vulgar of all names; it is worse
than Tom: every body applies it, when unacquainted with one's real
appellation. In Buenos Ayres, a stranger is addressed as "Don Juan." The
Toms and Jacks of the Spanish vocabulary are softened down into Tomas
and Juan.
The Spanish custom, when speaking or writing to an individual, of using
the Christian name instead of the surname, is very pleasing; and as I
am a great lover of the romantic, it will necessarily follow, that I am
more charmed with Don Carlos, Don Henrico, Don Guillermo, &c. than plain
Mr. Smith, Mr. Wilkins, and Mr. Tomkins; and Doña Clara, Doña Dominga,
and Doña Saturnina, than Miss Williams, Miss White, and Miss Brown.
Respectable families think it no disgrace to let lodgings, take in
washing, make and mend clothes and linen: these occupations are not
looked upon as belonging to the inferior orders, as with us. Their
slaves perform the laborious part.[17] I was not a little surprised,
when I first arrived, to have an application from the wife of an Alcalde
to perform any jobs in needle-work that I might have. I concluded the
lady meant to jest. The wife of an Alcalde, a sitting magistrate, to
take in needle-work! thought I. What would the Sir Richard Birnies and
the other sages of Bow-street, Marlborough-street, &c. say to this?
[17] The washerwomen of Buenos Ayres present a singular spectacle to a
stranger. They pursue their avocation on the beach; and this soap-sud
army extends for nearly two miles: all the washing of the town is
performed there, by black women-slaves, and servants. At a distance
upon the water, it looks like surf breaking upon the shore. They wash
well, extending the linen upon the ground to dry. Robberies amongst
them are punished by ducking. A wedding, or other joyous ceremony,
is celebrated with African magnificence: a canopy is formed from the
linen, and the heroine of the day placed under it; red handkerchiefs
for flags are carried upon sticks, with saucepans, drums, &c. They
dance pas-seuls, after the mode of Guinea and Mosambique, I presume.
The music consists of singing and clapping of hands; thunders of
applause follow--Parisot and Angiolini never received more; a general
shout ends the entertainments. Their adherence to African customs is
a peculiar trait. At the approach of rain, confusion seems at its
height, and "chaos come again;" the ladies hurrying in all directions,
to save their linen from "the pitiless storm."
Washing is dear--four to ten dollars per month, according to the clothes
washed.
Slavery has been abolished here, since the year 1810: those born prior
to that time, remain slaves.[18] The humanity of the Spaniards to their
slaves, compared with other nations, is well known: in Buenos Ayres they
are treated with great kindness. The female slaves are often placed more
on the footing of friends, than either slaves or servants. They attend
their ladies when visiting, seating themselves on the ground in the
room in which their mistress may be, and witnessing the dances that
continually take place amongst the members of families. These slave
girls, in consequence, become quite knowing and accomplished, in
their way; and, from being so much in the fashionable world, imitate
their superiors. I have observed them dance the minuet, and Spanish
_contre-danse_, with great elegance. The men slaves, when deserving,
are treated with equal kindness: it does honour to the humane hearts of
their employers; and I almost adore them for it. In other countries,
it has been my lot to see those unfortunate people treated with
barbarity--even by my own countrymen. No ill effects in the end can
possibly result from kind behaviour to the slaves: in Buenos Ayres,
they appear affectionate, happy, and grateful. Of course, discontented
spirits are to be found; but I speak in a general sense. Of an evening
(though I believe it is not a constant rule), I have seen female slaves
seated in the same chamber with their mistress and family, at
needle-work.
[18] I heard a slave boy once complaining, that he was a most
unfortunate fellow, in having been born only one day before the decree
passed for the abolition of slavery: "Could I have remained unborn,"
said he, "only one day longer, I should have been a happy boy, and no
slave."
Slaves can demand their paper, that is, the deed which binds them, and
seek other employers; and, for cruelty, can allege a complaint with the
_alcalde_. For serious misbehaviour, a proprietor can have them punished
by flogging, &c. There are other chastisements for females.
The men slaves are not numerous; a great portion of them having enlisted
as soldiers.
The English prefer having servants, to slaves, in their houses, and have
purchased but few. Those black gentlemen, in the employ of Englishmen,
have picked up a little of our language, which they are proud of
displaying.
A great many North-American black men are about the town, and on the
beach; crowding the _pulperias_.
The negroes have great confidence in the effect of charms for different
diseases: they stick a small bean-shell to the forehead for the
headache; another for the tooth-ache, &c. They wear, likewise, round the
neck, a cross, with a piece of leather in the shape of a small morocco
purse, like those sold in London: this is a religious badge.
The excellent and orderly conduct observed by the lower order of people
in the streets, compared with other countries, is very remarkable: no
obscene insulting jests meet the ear; and persons may accompany modest
females in the street, without dread of molestation from the groups of
all descriptions strolling about, who evince towards the stranger every
respect: we cannot but esteem them, for thus contributing to render a
foreigner's abode in this city so free from apprehension.
The riotous noise of the English lower orders is by some called one of
the evils of liberty, and I could not consent to curtail that liberty
even to purchase civility from them. I should, however, be glad if they
would condescend to copy, in some degree, Buenos Ayrean manners. I do
not wish them to be servile--good manners is not servility; but to
moderate that effusion of liberty, descending sometimes to ferocity.
Drunkenness is not a vice of this country; the rabble of blacks and
porters are at times so. The mechanic employs his spare hours with
the guitar: on a summer's night, the doors and windows are open, when
they are to be seen singing, and dancing, and smoking the segar. My
countrymen of the same grade, at home, prefer the comforts of society
in a public house, where they can, over their grog and song, damn the
ministers and taxes, swearing that they are true-born Britons, back and
bone.
From the orderly conduct observed in the streets of Buenos Ayres,
a stranger would suppose it a most moral city; we have no drunken
disorderly females, creating abhorrence and disgust. Intrigue is common
enough, but then it is modestly managed: besides, a lady's frailty is
not considered an offence so heinous as in our scrupulous England; more
compassion exists for the lovely sinners. Here are no crim. con. actions
to amuse some amorous judge and counsel, and inflame the passions.
This country has its portion of beggars, who are, at times, very
annoying, besieging the court-yards, &c. The best way to get rid of
them is to exclaim "_Perdone por Dios!_" (pardon for God's sake). This
expression, singular as it may appear, seldom fails in its effect; but
"_Perdone por Dios!_" would have but little chance amongst the sturdy
beggars of Europe.
The operation of lousing, so common in old Spain, is followed here, in
a degree, amongst a particular class. It is a most unseemly sight, for
female fingers to perform the office of combs.
A great aversion used to exist to reside in a house in which a person
had died of a fever, until it was thoroughly cleaned.
A savings bank has been established, upon the English plan; I doubt
if it will suit the meridian of Buenos Ayres: they are too careless
of to-morrow. If beef was one real per pound, their ideas would be
different; the labourer would be more industrious, and not refuse to
work on a rainy day, which is the case now. A tolerable sum has been
collected for the savings bank.
A propensity to gaming exists with the Buenos Ayreans; I mean with the
male part. The vices of London's fashionable dames, in this respect, are
not followed by the fair that inhabit the banks of La Plata.
There are no houses publicly appropriated for gaming, the government
having discountenanced this: but what can impede the infatuated
gamester? A few nights after my arrival, I visited a gambling-house;
they were playing a game like those of our E.O. tables. The police
entered;--I thought they were going to take us all into custody, in
the London mode; but they were more considerate, and only took the
principals: several Englishmen were in the room. If I am correctly
informed, Buenos Ayres contains individuals who, in the management of
the dice-box, might cope with gentlemen in the parish of St. James,
which some South American deputies, resident in London, can vouch for.
Even the boys of Buenos Ayres have a _penchant_ for gambling; especially
the milk-boys, who often go home _minus_ the day's receipts.
Bathing in summer by all classes, particularly the ladies, is one of
the fashionable recreations of the place; and as regards the latter, a
stranger is not a little interested; for here are no Ramsgate, Margate,
or Brighton machines, to shield them from prying eyes. They use bathing
clothes, and the operations of undressing, dressing, &c. are managed
with great dexterity.
They bathe in front of the town, attended by their female slaves. I have
often smiled to see them splashing about the water, with their hair
dishevelled, like a groupe of mermaids, wanting but the comb and glass
to make the picture perfect. At dark, the scene continues, and not being
exposed to the unhallowed eyes of man, they give a loose to joy and
merriment. Many lanterns are lighted, and the quantity of them convey
an idea of a Chinese festival. Bathing machines would be a great
accommodation, as it is necessary to walk nearly a quarter of a mile to
get out of depth; and, except in some parts, the bottom is stony and
disagreeable. It is altogether a wretched place for bathing.
Some _soi-disant_ modest persons (foreigners) take occasion to censure
this fashion of the females bathing, denominating it indecent. The
assertion is hardly a fair one. It has long been the custom; and such is
the circumspection used, that a bathing machine could scarcely add to
the decorum of the scene. Some grotesque scenes sometimes occur, such
as the lower orders of women bathing and smoking the segar at the same
time. Umbrellas are at times used to shade off the sun. No respectable
person ventures near the place occupied by the bathing females.
* * * * *
DRESS.--In their attire, the gentlemen of Buenos Ayres follow the
English fashion, except that they have not had the folly to imitate us
in our French short-tailed coats, which were only worn by porters and
oyster-men when I was in England. From the summer's heat, jackets and
light trowsers are worn, with straw hats, particularly those singularly
shaped ones from Chili. It is not genteel to wear jackets at the
theatre, or at parties. From November to March, light clothing is very
agreeable, except now and then during some days of cold.
In England, they would smile to see the dress of the boys in Buenos
Ayres; they have long coats, capotes, large hats, Wellington trowsers,
and boots; and this for children of eight and nine years of age, who
look like men of Lilliput.
The dress of the Buenos Ayrean ladies, I think, includes all that is
charming in female attire. The street dress is enchanting, equal to that
of our ball-room. White is the prevailing colour. The waist is neither
so short as the French, nor so long as the English. Shawls of all
descriptions are worn; some of them serve both for veil and shawl,
covering the bosom, and hanging loosely over the back part of the head:
the face is never concealed. In fine weather, they throw the shawl
entirely from the head, and walk the streets in conscious beauty,
heedless of the admiring eyes that will, in spite of resolution, turn
to gaze at them, as fancied beings of another sphere. Many times I have
done this, and found it impossible to withdraw my eyes, till distance,
or the fear of being observed, has obliged me. Those provoking fair ones
wear the frock and petticoat of that shortness, as just to expose enough
of the leg and ancle to increase the temptation. The persons of some of
them are symmetry itself.
So eager are the Buenos Ayrean ladies to display advantageously their
pretty feet and ancles, that they wear such tight shoes, as must cause
them infinite pain, which is evident from the limping manner in which
they are often observed to walk.
The ball dress is similar to that worn in the theatre; there may be
more of ornament, but some young ladies whom I could name want "no more
diamonds than their eyes can give."
Some ladies change their dress three and four times in a day.
The greatest attention is paid to the hair, which is suffered to grow to
a considerable length, and is fastened by a comb behind, with ringlets
in the front. Caps or bonnets are never worn, even in extreme old age.
The elderly lady has her white locks as carefully combed as when in
youth; and the same peculiar style of managing the veil. They have not
recourse to powder, or other disguises, to hide the approach of age. In
company, they are exceedingly free and talkative, and very cheerful.
It is a sight not devoid of interest, to see them gliding along, in
their black attire, to church, at which they are the most constant
visitants--the faded forms of what was once, perhaps, so lovely.
The sable dress worn by the ladies at church, and which I so much
admire, is the ancient Spanish costume, the _basquina_.
The wearing of mourning does not continue so long as with us;
neither are young and handsome widows disfigured by those close and
melancholy-looking caps that we see in England.
I am so charmed with the costume of the Spanish ladies, that I begin to
think my dislike of the cap and bonnet has something of prejudice in it.
If fortune should conduct me again to England, it will be some time ere
I shall fancy those articles of dress. In Buenos Ayres, the sight of
them are my perfect abhorrence: at home, they are more applicable to the
climate.
Fans are the ladies constant companions--in the street, theatre, ball,
and chamber; and their style of using them is unique, and, I think,
graceful. They are expensive: I have heard of sixty to seventy dollars
being given for one. The French send a great many, with all the
embellishments so peculiar to that nation.
The dress of the female children displays equal taste with that of
their elders; from which, indeed, there is little difference--the
short-sleeved frock, silk stockings, curled hair, and fan. They walk the
streets with immense importance--the miniatures of those of maturer age.
The children of Buenos Ayres are handsome; many of the female part,
perfect seraphs, bidding fair to fill up the void that time will soon
occasion in those whose charms now so much delight us. I sometimes
look at these little creatures with a feeling almost bordering upon
melancholy, to think that, in a few years, they will replace those who
at this period shine forth in all the heaven of beauty, to be themselves
replaced, another and another race succeeding. Who can prize life, when
our dream of happiness is so short; the vale of coming years so soon
casting its blight upon all our ardent, youthful fancies?
The females are really industrious, making their own clothes, and, I am
informed, the silk shoes they wear: a British lady is lost without the
milliner's aid. One of that profession might answer here, if it were
only for the novelty of the thing.
* * * * *
TRAVELLING.--Not many carriages or coaches are to be seen; but they
increase in number. The _callé coché_, or street coach, is much used; it
is drawn by two horses, or mules, with a postillion, and in shape very
much resembles our bakers' carts: the passengers are seated sideways.
Some English merchants and Creoles have carriages after the English
mode; but the nature of the roads and streets does not afford them a
great opportunity to "show off." Morris, an Englishman, carries on a
profitable trade as coach-maker: he is, indeed, the only good one in the
town.
The travelling carriages, that convey families to their estates,
hundreds of miles distant, are heavy cumbersome machines, in the old
Spanish style. A family going to the country is no ordinary sight;
the mules and waggons following with the baggage, and the quantity of
out-riders, slaves, and servants, in _ponchos_ and little dirty hats,
surrounding the carriages containing the ladies and female slaves,
appear like a banditti escorting their plunder.
A gentleman travelling has dirty white leather boots, large spurs,
poncho, slouching hat, pistols, sword, dagger, and knife; he appears a
complete robber captain--in fact, another Rugantino: he has generally
one or two slaves to attend him.
There are post-houses on the road, and those leading to Chili are very
regular. A constant supply of horses and guides are kept; but persons
mostly go on horseback, for the sake of expedition. The journey is thus
made to the Andes in about fourteen days. Crossing the mountains, and
getting to Santiago, in Chili, will take about three weeks, from Buenos
Ayres; but the horse must always be kept at a full gallop. Carriages are
expensive, and very dilatory, but they save a great deal of fatigue.
There are persons in Europe who suppose that horses may be obtained in
South America for the trouble of catching them: but that is not exactly
the case in this province; here they have all owners.
Horses may be bought from 3 to 100 dollars, according to their quality;
a very good one may be had for seventeen dollars. They average about 12
or 13 hands high, and have the tail mostly long. They will endure much
fatigue. Their pace is the gallop, or canter; trotting, the horse's
natural pace, appears quite unnatural here; but we must not include
those trained for the carriage or gig. There are some fine horses in
Buenos Ayres; and by those who have not seen the hunters, the dray, and
the heavy horse of Europe, they will be admired. To tell a native that
horses have been sold in England for 2, 3, 4, and 5000 guineas, would
hardly gain belief.[19] If these animals are cheap here, the keep of
them is dear--from 12 to 17 dollars per month. Hay is not much used:
grass may be purchased from the country, every morning, from the grass
carts that pass through the town.
[19] Great curiosity was excited by the arrival in the brig Rhoda from
London, of three English draught horses and a mare, sent out by Mr.
Rivadavia, as a present to the government. The animals were landed in
good condition, notwithstanding their having endured a confinement of
thirteen weeks on board ship. Their great size and muscular appearance
excited universal admiration. What would the Buenos Ayreans say, could
they see our regiments of Life-Guards, and heavy cavalry, and the
cattle in the brewer's drays and coal waggons? An English groom
attended the horses to the stables, and numbers went to view them
there.
I am afraid, that the sanguine hopes of improving the breed of
horses, in this country, by the introduction of English ones, will
not be realized; for, in spite of their boasted climate and pastures,
I am persuaded, neither will be found congenial to our horses, who,
being accustomed to the ever-verdant plains of England, can ill bear
the long drought and oppressive heat of this country. The people,
too, are prejudiced in favour of their own cattle; and were they to
pay attention to them, they would indeed be excellent; but their
treatment of horses may be compared to the manner in which Esquimaux
treat their dogs. Comfortable stabling and grooming are unknown here.
Horses are so cheap and plentiful, they are little valued.
Some English blood horses, for Mr. W. P. Robertson, of this place,
unfortunately perished during the passage from England. Had they
arrived, the Buenos Ayreans might have witnessed the hunter and
draught horse of Great Britain. Our countrymen in Buenos Ayres seemed
highly delighted to see their country horses; and, as they passed the
beach, the sailors eyed the animals with rapture, commenting upon
their noble appearance.
A quantity of English sheep, stated to be Merinos, likewise came out
in the Rhoda.
They have no convenience like the livery stables of England. The
horses are put under a shed, or left in the open air; the mild climate
requiring no other care. Those employed in drudgery with carts, at the
custom-house, &c. are as hard worked as our post and hackney-coach
horses.
English saddles are in vogue. The _ricado_, or saddle of the country,
keeps its sway, being so constructed that on journeys it serves for
saddle and bed. The Spanish bridle and bit are preferred both by the
English and the natives. The Spanish fashion of having the stirrups long
is invariably followed, and I think it more graceful than our mode.
Silver stirrups, spurs, &c. are not so much in use as formerly. Horses,
bridles, and saddles were repeatedly stolen in the streets; but such
events, from the regularity of the police, do not often happen now.
Every horse has a burnt mark, by which its owner can be traced.
The ladies ride on horseback; but they neither look so well in their
riding attire, or manage the horse so dexterously, as the British
ladies.
The lower orders of countrymen ride with one toe in the stirrup, and
gallop for miles in that way.
They strap the front of the horses' legs, to prevent their running away,
in the streets. Galloping is not permitted in the town.
The country waggons are roofed with hides, and have large wheels: the
creaking of the latter is very disagreeable; but they will not take the
trouble to grease them. Whole families and parties, going long journeys,
live and sleep for weeks or months together in waggons drawn by oxen.
Six or eight of them are yoked, in pairs, to a log of wood at the back
of the horns, to which the rope harness is tied, and they are thus made
to draw the burthen from the head. They are urged on by poles with a
sharp substance at the end: the drivers have likewise a piece of lead,
in shape and size like our constables' staffs, with which they belabour
the poor animal about the horns. They sadly want a Mr. Martin here. From
being so constantly goaded, these animals have got a mischievous trick
of kicking; and, not being aware of them, I once received a favour of
this sort, which has since made me (to use the sailor's phrase) "give
them a wide birth."
* * * * *
SPORTS and AMUSEMENTS.--Near the Recolator is a decent even road, where,
on fine evening, are horse-races. The natives ride without saddle; and
the animals have great spirit. Englishmen sometimes get up a race, the
natives acting as jockeys.
Exercise on the water is not a popular amusement. The inhabitants have
no taste for sailing-boats and rowing-matches: the river, it is true,
has no very great inducement for aquatic sports.
A particular class of the people are very fond of cock-fighting, and
will give thirty to forty dollars for a good English game-cock. The
packet sailors have brought some out, and sold them well. The native
game-cocks are good, but not equal in strength and courage to the
English.
Greyhounds and foxhounds would come to a bad market, for neither climate
nor country is adapted for hunting. My fox-hunting countrymen would
be out of their element here: foxes there are none; but deer are
plentiful. Athletic sports must be confined to countries more congenial
to them.
The amateurs of shooting would be at home: birds abound so much as
almost to destroy the pleasure of the sport. A short distance from town,
there are lakes, with wild ducks, geese, swans, &c. In cold weather, and
in other periods, flocks fly over the town, and alight near the beach.
The black-necked swans are fine birds; and wild ducks, which are always
an excellent dish at table, are much better than the tame ones: the
market is well supplied with them. There are also excellent partridges,
of a larger size than our's; but there are no pheasants. English
sportsmen, habited in the mode of their country, with fustian jacket,
gun fastened to the horse, and the dogs behind, greatly enjoy this
recreation: they bring to my recollection our sporting farmers of
Gloucestershire and Norfolk, revived in South-America. The Frenchmen
in this country are fond of the sport: they go out, dressed in French
sporting costume, with cap and jacket, and on foot. I have observed
that this amusement is, in a great measure, confined to foreigners; the
natives take very little interest in it. The cockney sportmen of Buenos
Ayres sometimes amuse themselves by shooting gulls on the beach.
The country affords little facility to follow fishing as a sport;
and the fish found in the river, with a few exceptions, is not worth
catching. They fish on horseback. Two horses are attached, one to each
end of the net,--a man standing on their backs, in the manner of one
of Astley's equestrians; and they go so deeply in the water, that the
horses are, at times, obliged to swim. I have expected to see the men
thrown off. The net is then hauled to the shore; the fish that is fit
for the market is taken out, and the rest thrown or given away. People
don't go out fishing at a distance, in boats. The sailors on board the
vessels in the roads catch great quantities of fish, but they are of a
very indifferent kind: one called the cat-fish is the most common.
Throwing the _lasso_ is a favourite amusement of this country, and
is performed by the natives with great dexterity. A man on horseback,
holding the _lasso_ (a rope looped at the end) rides amongst a herd of
cattle, casting the rope towards the object he wishes to entrap; the
first attempt almost always succeeds, and the animal is fast secured by
the leg. They practice this _lasso_ from boyhood: it is a formidable
weapon, against a flying enemy.
An annual fair is held on some open ground, before the Recolator church,
about two miles from the fort, and one mile north of the town. It
commences on the 12th of October (the nativity of Nostra Señora del
Pilar), and continues a week. The amusements are not very great:
there are a few booths for eating and drinking, swings, two or three
humourless clowns running about, and a military band. The national
British and American flags are hoisted from houses and booths devoted to
good cheer, rented for the occasion by individuals of those nations. At
night, the country people dance till a late hour in the booths; they may
be observed to perfection then. I wandered into several; and the Gaucho
ladies and gentlemen behaved with the greatest politeness, offering me
a seat, and entreating me to dance. The guitar was the music, with the
usual accompaniments of singing, and snapping the fingers during the
dance. On fine evenings a very elegant assemblage attend this fair,
which is a promenade for the beauties of the city; but being held
so near the equinox, the weather is generally unsettled. In 1822, a
tremendous storm took place, one night of the fair, overwhelming booths,
flags, and preparations; hundreds took refuge in the church. At the
theatre (in which I happened to be during the storm), the dust filled
the interior, obscuring the stage. The small stones and dust, rattling
against the walls and windows, had the effect of what one might suppose
of a shower of small shot.
The fair at the Recolator, in 1824, as regarded amusements, was very
dull. The promenade, however, was well attended: the _elegantes_, and
others of Buenos Ayres, appeared in their best attire; and the dashing
mulatto girls, in silk stockings, white dresses, and veils, seemed
determined to rival the fair ones of higher birth. As usual, the
equinoctial gales vented their spite at this devoted fair.[20]
[20] On the second day of the fair, it blew a gale of wind, in which a
boat, belonging to H.M. brig of war, _Plover_, was upset, between the
inner and outer roads, and five men were drowned. A subscription was
opened for their families, in England, and 500 dollars were collected.
Mr. Poussett, the vice-consul, generously exerted himself to forward
this charitable act.
During Carnival they have a disgusting practice: in place of music,
masques, and dancing, they amuse themselves by throwing buckets and pans
of water from the tops of houses and windows, sousing every passenger
that passes, and following each other, from house to house, in regular
water attacks. Egg-shells filled with water are also thrown: these are
sold in the streets. The audience, on leaving the theatre the night
before Carnival, get a plentiful salute of them. It lasts three days;
and many persons go out of town to avoid it, as it is hardly possible to
walk the streets without a ducking. The ladies receive no mercy; neither
do they deserve any, for they take a most active part. Repeatedly, on
passing groups of them, at night, an egg of water has been adroitly put
into my bosom. Those whose occupations lead them into the street, must
expect a wetting. Strangers seem to join in the sports with great glee.
An English master of a vessel, just arrived, received a bucket of water.
Not being aware of the practice, he took up bricks, swearing he would
break every window in the house. He could scarcely be pacified. Many
persons have been seriously ill from the effects of Carnival playing.
The newspapers and police have interfered to suppress it, hitherto,
without effect, though it is somewhat lessened. They follow it as an
ancient custom of the country; and, like other absurdities, it will, I
suppose, die a natural death. If the ladies knew how much it detracts
from feminine softness, surely it would be discontinued by them.
In 1825, government seized the opportunity of the victory in Peru, to
devote the three days of Carnival to public rejoicings. Handbills were
accordingly issued, requesting fathers and masters of families to assist
them, and prevent water-throwing, denominating it "disgraceful to a
civilized people." The appeal had, in some degree, the desired effect:
at night, however, the water-playing folks could not resist indulging in
their favourite amusement--sprinkling the pedestrians with water from
phials; especially in the Plaza, where, some mischief-loving girls
managed to accommodate me with some of their favours in this way. In
time, the good sense of the people will banish this, as they have many
other of their antique and absurd customs; for instance, the musical
exhibitions during Lent--a triumph gained by reason over bigotry and
priestcraft.
* * * * *
PROVISIONS.--The new market, in the centre of the town, is convenient,
and well supplied: soldiers are stationed in the outlets, to keep order.
Beef is sold at three reals the _arroba_, or 25 lb.; mutton, for the
whole sheep, six reals. Veal is not allowed to be killed; and pork is
very bad indeed, and seldom used at table. Turkeys cost from 5 to 7
reals; ducks and fowls, 3½ reals each; partridges and pigeons, 1½ real
the pair: geese are moderate--3 reals each. Vegetables are very dear:
cabbages, one real; carrots, green peas, cauliflowers, spinage, &c. in
the same proportion.
Although the chief articles of life are, at first cost, so cheap, the
expense of fire in cooking makes them come almost, if not quite, as dear
as in England. Coals are imported from England, and are dear.
The beef is good, but much inferior to our's; and their fashion of
always baking it gives it a taste of the charcoal and wood, and renders
it insipid. They have no idea of roasting by the spit. Mr. Booth, an
Englishman, who keeps a store, is noted for having dinners in the
English style.
In summer, meat will not keep beyond the day, and cattle are slaughtered
in the morning for the day's consumption; in winter, the night previous.
In England, meat kept two or three days is supposed to eat more tender;
here, it is the reverse--as report tells me, for I have never been
housekeeper enough to know from experience.
Mutton is indifferent: from some farms, they tell me, good mutton can be
procured, but it has not been my lot to partake of any of this superior
sort. The natives have not much relish for mutton: sheep were, at one
time, of so little value, that, in the country, they were killed, and
used as fuel for brick-kilns. This has improved, and will continue
to do so, from the number of well-stocked sheep farms, that now send
large droves far into the interior for sale. Mr. Halsey, an American
gentleman, has a large concern of this nature.
The poultry bought in the market are not of the best description; they
are in general, diminutive and tough. To have good poultry, it is
necessary for persons to fatten them themselves, or purchase them at
farms that can be depended upon. Ducks are better; the turkeys are
large, and, when properly reared, eat tender; the geese are indifferent.
Partridges are large and tender, and very excellent. The ordinary
poultry, in a manner, live upon beef, for which they seem to have a
peculiar _penchant_. I have seen beef and corn placed before turkeys,
and they preferred the former. In a place where so many animals exist
upon beef, the pig, it may be believed, comes in for his full share.
Indeed, all animals, in this country, appear to live upon beef. The
quantity that is wasted would be most acceptable to the poor in populous
Europe.
This country is as famous for the quantity of beef produced, as the Cape
of Good Hope is for sheep. A bullock now costs eight dollars, without
the hide; formerly, they could be purchased at ten reals. The hide now
sells for six dollars. Some of the _estancias_ have from forty to fifty
thousand head of cattle of all classes.
An order exists, that beef is not to be sold at more than three reals
the arroba, at market. The year of 1823 was one of great drought, and
the cattle perished by thousands: the beef market was in so terrible a
condition, that scarcely any were to be had, and what there was was very
bad; for cattle could not be brought to market, but at a very great loss
to the owners. The impolicy of a fixed price in an open market, except
when monopoly is apprehended, was fully proved. When any beef came to
market, there was perfect fighting for it with the slaves and servants
of families and others. The poor endured privations with patience: John
Bull would have been more riotous.
Besides the principal market, there are others in different parts of the
town; and beef is sold in carts, that take their stations in yards and
outbuildings, holding a butcher's shop, the ground serving for block.
The first sight of this operation, so different to the cleanliness and
style of English butcher's shops, is sufficient to disgust a stranger.
Salt, or corned beef, is only to be had good in winter, and then it is
nothing like that we get in England. It is only at English or American
tables this dish is to be seen: the natives pretend not to understand
it; I have seen them, notwithstanding, partake of a buttock of beef with
great relish.
A beef-steak is so entirely an English dish, that it preserves in all
climates its original name: they may be had in the coffee-houses here,
but, like the French "_bif-tik_," are no great things.
The Gauchos in the country exist upon beef: bread is a rarity with them.
Having no ovens, they are obliged to roast the beef upon sticks placed
lengthwise. I wish they were under the same necessity in Buenos Ayres; I
should eat it with much better appetite. The true roast beef is only to
be obtained amongst those Gauchos.[21]
[21] These Gauchos are a peculiar race: some wear their hair long,
and plaited, Chinese fashion; and, in addition to their other
singularities of dress, they wear handkerchiefs tied under the chin,
and hanging loose behind. A group of them in a field, seated round a
fire, is all we can fancy of Macbeth's witches.
_Carné conquiero_ (beef baked with part of the hide attached), and
_mater ambre_, or kill hunger (baked beef, with sauce _piquant_), is
relished by many here; but I am not one of the number.
The sausages I should like, were it not for the abhorrent garlic in
them.
The dainties of English hams, cheese, potatoes, &c. are bought at the
stores; the two former, at four reals the pound; the latter, one real:
the duties are rather high upon them. Bottled beer may be purchased at
four reals per bottle; and draught beer may sometimes be had. Articles
of the above description are almost wholly imported from England. The
length of the voyage will not permit our rich English cheeses to be
brought here; consequently, we are deprived of the luxury of a real
"Welch rabbit." The Penco cheese, brought from the district of that
name, in Chili, approaches nearest to our toasting cheese.
Bread is dear: two small loaves (a trifle larger than our French rolls),
one madio. They decrease the size according to the price of flour. That
made of American flour is the best. They are, at present, entirely
dependent upon foreign importation; and the Americans have taken away
immense sums of money. The corn of the country, from some unaccountable
cause--a want of attention, or deficient harvests--is nothing equal to
the demand. They generally grind the corn at the bakehouses, which, by a
late order, are removed out of town. Mules are employed in the grinding.
Tea is not much drank by the natives, though more so than formerly. In
English families, it is, as at home, an article of the first necessity;
it sells here from 1 to 1½ dollar per lb. Coffee is 3½ reals per lb.
Lump sugar, dear and scarce; that of Havannah and Brazils is used.
Chocolate, from 2½ to 3 reals per lb.
Altogether, living in Buenos Ayres is much more expensive than in
England, without its various comforts.
Here are wines of all sorts, "from humble Port to imperial Tokay," and
but little good. Port and Madeira are retailed at one dollar per bottle;
champaigne, a dollar and a half. Of French and Spanish wines, there
are great quantities. The cheapest and common drink is the wine of
Catalonia, or, as it is denominated, Carlon wine, which is sold at from
two to three reals per bottle, and is far from an unpleasant beverage.
Not much wine is made in the country; that of Mendoza has a sweet taste,
like our homemade wines.
Beer is only used as a _bonne bouche_. Bottled beer has not that relish
to me, that the London draught porter has. Brandy, gin, and rum, are
abundant. The latter arrives from the Brazils, Havannah, and Isle of
France. The good old Jamaica rum is a scarce commodity. Caña, a sort of
white brandy, from the Havannah, Brazils, and Spain, and called Spanish
brandy, is much drank, and makes capital punch.
The vegetables of this country, to my thinking, are not very enticing.
We miss the delicious flavour of the summer cabbage, large asparagus,
and peas, that we have at home. A good salad, with cucumbers and onions,
may be procured. Turnips are scarce and bad. Indian corn grows in
abundance.
English potatoes are much sought after: the packet sailors have brought
a great many;[22] and so eager were the English potatoe merchants to
obtain them, that they quarrelled one with the other, and their disputes
were referred to the Consulado, who must have imbibed strange opinions
of the trading English. All efforts to raise potatoes on this soil have
failed: they are small and insipid. An Englishman, Mr. Billinghurst, has
been endeavouring, some years, to effect this object without success.
Those grown at Monte Video are something better. In Peru, they are
thought equal, if not superior, to our's: but our islands appear to be
their home.
[22] The packet sailors are allowed a portion of trade; and the most
profitable of their imports have been potatoes and game-cocks. These
packet sailors are complete pedlars.
The peaches in their season, from January to March, are excellent, and
the consumption great, being esteemed healthy: they are sold in all
parts--in the markets, shops, and hawked about the streets. From eight
to ten can be purchased for a _madio_ (three-pence English money). The
strawberries, apples, pears, cherries, &c. are, for their quality, not
worthy of notice. Grapes are tolerable. Oranges will not thrive in this
climate; and the lemons are very inferior. Gooseberries, currants, and
plums are unknown, except by name. After all the praises bestowed upon
the fruits grown in tropical and warm climates, they cannot, in the
gross, equal those of others. What have they to compensate for the
green-gage, gooseberries, currants, strawberries, cherries, apples,
pears, and plums of every description? Travellers must not believe all
they hear in Europe; they will not find the fields and boughs, in South
America, teeming with every species of fruit, free to those who choose
to gather them.
* * * * *
In addition to those already noticed, this country produces very few
OTHER ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. Indeed, persons who wish to send
presents to England are often at a loss what to forward, the country not
producing any great variety, either in the animal or vegetable world.
The herds of cattle that exist in the Pampas are immense: of this we
can form a tolerably correct estimate from annual exports. In one year a
million of ox and cow hides were exported.
Mules are numerous and cheap; they cost from two to four dollars each.
There is a traffic in them, but not very great, to the Isle of France
and West Indies. The expense of provender and fitting for such a
freight, and the numbers that die during a voyage, lessen the profits
considerably; and vessels will not venture upon each troublesome
shipmates when any thing else offers.
A great many tigers are found up the country, and about the islands of
the river Parana; but they have nothing of the ferocity or terrific
grandeur of the East-Indian tygers: they are, in fact, more like
leopards; and those that I have seen are not larger than a common sheep
dog. They will, however, often attack individuals; and several have been
devoured by them.
The tiger-cats are plentiful.
Buenos Ayres swarms with dogs, and none of them very valuable. An
English bull-dog would beat fifty such. They had an abominable practice
of sending criminals, under a guard, into the streets, armed with heavy
clubs, for the purpose of killing the dogs they met with, leaving the
carcases in the street to rot. Many a pet has been slaughtered this way.
Some more humane method might be devised, to lessen the number of dogs,
than this cruel and disgusting mode: it has been lately discontinued.
Hydrophobia, I conceive, they only know by name, as I have never heard
of any accident from it.
Of the small field animals the nutria, for the sake of its skin, it the
most valuable, and forms a valuable article of export. They are, in
shape, much like rats; but are larger, and have long front teeth
projecting: they are quite harmless.
The _armadillo_ is the South-American hedge-hog, without the prickly
substances they have in Europe: the natives eat them.
Here are, also, the _boscatcha_, or South-American badger; and a pretty
little animal, like a weasel, which is often tamed, and runs about the
house.
Rats and ants are a great annoyance in this country: they swarm in the
houses, and are very active in their vocations. The former are not so
ferocious as the English ones, who often, when retreat is cut off, fight
most ratfully. The Buenos Ayres rats are better educated.
The fire-fly, on summer nights, is seen gliding through the air.
This not being a woody country, the feathered creation presents very
little variety. Here are the canary, cardinal, common sparrow, owls, &c.
About Paraguay, and where it is more intersected, there are some
beautiful birds, including the parrot and parroquet; the latter are
likewise plentiful on the other side of the river, in Entre Rios,
&c.[23]
[23] The parrots brought from the Brazils, Paraguay, &c. to Buenos
Ayres, differ in nothing from those we every day see in England; and
they chatter as loudly, generally in the following strain--"_Lorito
Real_," (Royal Poll); "_Pare la Espana y no para la Portugal!_" (Spain
for ever and no Portugal); "_Est casada?_" (Are you married?) "_Aye,
Jesus!_" (O, Jesus!)
Ostriches are very numerous in the Pampas.
The beautiful and scarce little humming-bird, now and then, makes its
appearance among the lowers. I have made several efforts to catch them,
but without success.
This portion of South America, in the summer of 1824-25, was most
seriously annoyed by locusts; the memory of the oldest inhabitant cannot
recollect such a swarm. The air was darkened, and the ground strewed,
with the millions of those devouring insects: a north wind brought them
down from the Parana, like a snow-storm. The fruit trees, plants, &c.
dreadfully suffered. The inhabitants have an idea, that, by ringing
bells, beating tin saucepans, and other noises of this description,
locusts can be frightened away. An easterly wind, rain, and cold
weather, are, I believe, their only destroyers. The months of December,
1824 and January, 1825, were foggy, dry months, the wind constantly
from the north; and, for want of water, a great mortality took place in
the country among the cattle.
Mushrooms and water-cresses are not very plentiful: they are more found
in the neighbourhood of Ensenada; as are also leeches, for which doctors
give a good price.
The flowers reared in this country must likewise yield, in beauty and
sweetness, to our own: we do not see the polyanthus, moss rose, and many
others that strew their beauties over the British isles.
* * * * *
POPULATION.--The province of Buenos Ayres, which extends nearly 500
miles in length, with a breadth undefined (perhaps equal to its length),
has only a population of about 150,000 souls; and Patagonia, which is
under the same government, 1000.
It is estimated, that in the population of Buenos Ayres, there are five
females to one male. If this be correct, some ladies are likely to come
under the horrid list of old maids. That more female births take place
in comparison with those of Europe cannot be doubted. I know families of
eight, nine, and ten daughters, and perhaps one son. The causes of such
disproportion, I must leave the natural philosophers to develope.
* * * * *
TRADE and MANUFACTURES.--From its extensive produce, Buenos Ayres will
ever command attention in a mercantile point of view.
The exports consist of ox hides of all descriptions, horse hides, horse
hair, wool, tallow, nutria skins, horns, chinchilla skins, salted beef,
and silver in hard dollars and bars.
The quantity of European goods annually imported is very great: I
am surprised how they find vent for them. The cargoes brought from
Liverpool, of manufactured goods, of Manchester, Glasgow, &c. are of
considerable value, often from 70 to 80, and £100,000.
The following is a list of square-rigged merchant vessels that entered
the port of Buenos Ayres in the years 1821, 1822, 1823, and 1824:--
In 1821. In 1822. In 1823. In 1824.
British[24] 128 183 113 110
American 42 75 80 143[25]
French 19 21 24 21
Swedish 7 11 6 14
Sardinian 3 7 6 6
Danish 1 1 5 10
Dutch 2 4 6 8
[24] Of the British vessels, the following were from London and
Liverpool; the remainder from Gibraltar, Rio Janeiro, the Havannah,
&c. &c.
In 1821. In 1822. In 1823. In 1824.
From Liverpool 33 35 23
From London 10 7 8
[25] The number of American vessels in 1824, compared with former
years, is very great. They were chiefly laden with flour, which,
although now a losing speculation, has, lately, been beneficial.
Under the Portuguese, Brazilian, and Buenos Ayrean flags, brigs and
small craft are daily arriving and sailing from and to Rio Janeiro, and
all parts of the Brazils, Patagonia, and trading in the River Plate, and
up the rivers of the interior.
A number of American vessels are sold, as well as broken up, in Buenos
Ayres, which, assuming the flag of the country, trade with Rio Janeiro,
Rio Grande, Patagonia, &c. Many of them are under the command of
Englishmen and North Americans, who, at no great distance of time will
carry the Buenos Ayrean flag to every part of the world. This country
must for some time rely upon foreigners for their shipping. The
population are not maritimely inclined.
Several persons gain a livelihood by leaving notices, or _avisos_, of
vessels arriving, and their cargoes.
A long report upon the trade of this country has been drawn up by a
committee of British merchants, and presented to the Consul, extracts
from which have appeared in the English newspapers. Great talent has
been exhibited in the detail and writing of this report, although I
think the picture has been too highly painted.
Should the trade of Paraguay be thrown open to Buenos Ayres, it will be
of great advantage. The present Governor, Francia, follows the Jesuits'
system; and Pekin is not more secluded from the inspection of strangers.
Some unfortunate Englishmen, who ventured there with goods, had both
their persons and property detained, and no satisfactory intelligence
has been received of them. In February, 1823, a memorial was sent
to Sir Thomas Hardy, by their friends in Buenos Ayres, entreating
his interference. This memorial has been forwarded to the British
government. It is surprising that the people of Paraguay, a country
so rich in its natural productions should be quiet under such severe
restrictions. One is led to suppose, from their passiveness, that they
are content with the system. Francia, however, has lately permitted
communication and trade with the Portuguese in Brazil; Itapua, on the
frontiers, being the depôt town.
They have no regular exchange for the merchants to meet in, at Buenos
Ayres. A new general Commercial Room is about to be established, to
which persons of all nations will be allowed to subscribe. Some late
regulations of the British Room have given offence; the committee of
which, in derision, have been named "the Holy Alliance," and have had
several anonymous letters addressed to them, upon their aristocratical
notions in a foreign country. The refusal to allow any but British
subjects to subscribe to the Commercial Room, has been much commented
upon; some years back it might have been advisable, but at this period
a more liberal system would perhaps be better.
The Creoles of the country now engage in mercantile pursuits with great
avidity; and commerce has spread into so many hands, that money does not
roll in quite so fast as formerly.
The competition amongst the store-keepers materially diminishes their
profits, and reduces the concern upon a level with English chandlers'
shops.
The number of shops in Buenos Ayres is very great; they abound in the
streets leading from the Plaza. Every shop and house has a proportion of
taxes levied upon it: and there is also a species of property tax upon
the English plan. The taxes now imposed considerably diminish the
profits they used to make.
The linen-drapers have a choice assortment from all countries, neatly
arranged. Their shops are well lighted; and although they fall very
short of the splendour of the London ones, yet they are equal to some
of those of our best country towns: they are open till nine and ten at
night. They call the Buenos Ayreans a lazy people: the shopkeepers, at
least, do not merit this epithet.
The shopmen are mostly young men, who appear to have all the persuasive
arts of their brethren in London, prevailing upon their fair customers
to get rid of their money, and subjecting them to a good scolding from
husbands and mammas, for extravagance, leading to pouting and sulks for
a week. Those gentlemen of the shop have a great deal to answer for.
Every article of apparel, both for male and female, can be purchased at
the retail shops, of which there are many: they have coats, waistcoats,
trowsers, &c. hanging in front, in the mode of Monmouth Street. Mr.
Niblett was the first Englishman that opened a shop of this description.
A great many Englishmen have their clothes sent from England: but the
duty and incidental expences make them come as dear as if made here.
Buenos Ayres contains several English tailors, whose work is tolerably
well, considering they have not English workmen; although not with that
exquisite finish which is to be seen in London. A coat will cost thirty
dollars, trowsers twelve; the rest in proportion. The town swarms with
Creolian and other tailors.
Manufactories for hats exist in Buenos Ayres: one of them, Varangot's,
has a considerable trade, and they are really good, from seven to eight
dollars each, far superior to our second-rate hats; the misfortune is,
that on the approach of rainy weather they act as a perfect barometer,
and get limp.
Of the hats imported into Buenos Ayres the English are preferred; but
the heavy duty has brought out those of an inferior description. At
present, there are some good ones at ten or twelve dollars each, which
at that price meet with a ready sale. The French import a quantity of
hats; but the quality of them is much inferior to our's.
English manufactured goods are cheap; the market has been overstocked,
and, I fear, does not yield much profit to the adventurers. I have
bought English stockings cheaper than I could buy them in London,
leather gloves (a good pair) for a dollar. It is cheaper to purchase a
stock of linen here than at home. I have purchased good white cotton
neckcloths, after the rate of sixpence each. In summer, cotton shirting
is preferred.
English
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