Faux's Memorable Days in America, 1819-20; and Welby's Visit to North America, 1819-20, part 2 (1820)
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Title: Faux's Memorable Days in America, 1819-20; and Welby's Visit to North America, 1819-20, part 2 (1820)
Author: W. Faux
Adlard Welby
Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites
Release date: March 18, 2013 [eBook #42364]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024
Language: English
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FAUX'S MEMORABLE DAYS IN AMERICA, 1819-20; AND WELBY'S VISIT TO NORTH AMERICA, 1819-20, PART 2 (1820) ***
Early Western Travels
1748-1846
Volume XII
Early Western Travels
1748-1846
A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best
and rarest contemporary volumes of travel,
descriptive of the Aborigines and Social
and Economic Conditions in the Middle
and Far West, during the Period
of Early American Settlement
Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by
Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D.
Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents,"
"Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition,"
"Hennepin's New Discovery," etc.
Volume XII
Part II (1820) of Faux's Memorable Days in America, 1819-20;
and Welby's Visit to North America, 1819-20.
[Illustration]
Cleveland, Ohio
The Arthur H. Clark Company
1905
COPYRIGHT 1905, BY
THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
The Lakeside Press
R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY
CHICAGO
CONTENTS OF VOLUME XII
I
MEMORABLE DAYS IN AMERICA: being a Journal of a Tour to
the United States, etc. (Part II: January 1--July 21,
1820.) _William Faux_ 11
II
A VISIT TO NORTH AMERICA AND THE ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS
IN ILLINOIS, with a Winter Residence at Philadelphia;
solely to ascertain the actual prospects of the
Emigrating Agriculturist, Mechanic, and Commercial
Speculator. _Adlard Welby_
Author's Dedication 145
Author's Preface 147
Text
The Voyage 151
Ship Cookery 156
Situation of a Passenger on board ship 156
Drive to the Falls of the Passaic River, Jersey State 166
Philadelphia 172
A Pensilvanian Innkeeper 188
American Waiters 196
Servants 199
Black Population in Free Pensilvania 200
Night 200
Americans and Scots 201
Virginia 202
Wheeling 204
State of Ohio 205
Kentucky. Maysville or Limestone 214
An Odd Mistake 218
Lexington, Kentucky 221
Frankfort 222
Louisville 226
Indiana 227
Vincennes (Indiana) 236
A Visit to the English Settlement in the Illinois 248
Harmony 260
A Winter at Philadelphia 294
Horrible Execution! 309
Lectures on Anatomy 314
ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME XII
"Log Tavern, Indiana" 142
Facsimile of title-page to Welby 143
"Little Brandywine, Pennsylvania" 176
"Bridge at Columbia, Pennsylvania" 179
"Susquehannah River at Columbia" 184
"Place of Worship & Burial Ground, at Ligonier Town,
Pennsylvania" 185
"Widow McMurran's Tavern, Scrub Ridge" 189
"View on Scrub Ridge" 193
Wooden scoop (text cut) 203
"Ferry at Maysville, on the Ohio" 209
"Maysville, on the Ohio, Kentucky" 215
"Frankfort, Kentucky" 224
"The Church at Harmonie" 264
"Bridge at Zanesville, Ohio" 277
"View at Fort Cumberland, Maryland" 281
"View at Fort Cumberland, Maryland" 286
PART II (1820) OF FAUX'S MEMORABLE DAYS IN AMERICA
NOVEMBER 27, 1818--JULY 21, 1820
Reprint of the original edition: London, 1823. Part I is comprised
in Volume XI of our series
JOURNAL
(PART II)
_January 1st, 1820._--I left Princeton at ten o'clock, with Mr. Phillips
and Mr. Wheeler; and here parted with my good and kind friend Ingle.
I met and spoke, ten miles off, with two hog-jobbing judges, Judge
Prince and Judge Daniel,[104] driving home twenty fat hogs, which they
had just bought.
I reached, and rested at Petersburgh,[105] consisting of fifteen houses.
I passed good farms. Our landlord of this infant town, though having an
{333} ostler, was compelled to groom, saddle, unsaddle, and to do all
himself. Having fifty dollars owing to him, from a gentleman of
Evansville, he arrested him, when he went into the bounds; then he sued
one of the bondsmen, who also entered the bounds. The squire is next to
be sued, who, it is expected, will do likewise.
_Sunday, 2nd._--I rode thirty-one miles this day, and rested at
Edmonstone, in a little cold log-hole, out of which I turned an
officer's black cat, which jumped from the roof into our faces, while in
bed; but she soon found her way in again, through a hole in the roof.
The cat liked our fire. We got no coffee nor tea, but cold milk and
pork, and corn cake.
_3rd._--Travelled all day, through the mud-holes formed by springs
running from countless hills, covered with fine timber, to breakfast, at
three o'clock, p. m. I supped and slept at Judge Chambers's, a
comfortable house, and saw again the judge's mother, of eighty, whose
activity and superior horsemanship, I have before mentioned. I smoked a
segar with Mrs. Judge, while she smoked her pipe, (the first pipe I have
seen here.) She, as well as the old lady, is a quaker. The judge was
gone to the metropolitan town of Coridon, being a senator, on duty.[106]
The land which I passed over all this day, seemed poor, but full of wild
turkeys and bears.
_4th._--I reached Miller's to supper, but found no {334} coffee; cold
milk only, as a substitute. The ride hither is interesting, through a
fine rolling country. The wolves howled around us all night.
_5th._--Passed the Silver Hills,[107] from the summit of which is a
fine, extensive prospect of Kentucky, the Ohio, and of Louisville, where
we breakfasted. I called with Mr. Flower's letter to Archer, who was
out. I received the present of a cow-hide whip, from a lady, and
promised to treat the beast kindly, for her sake. Judge Waggoner
recently shook hands at a whiskey-shop, with a man coming before him
that day, to be tried for murder. He drank his health, and wished him
well through.
I rode seven miles with an intelligent old Kentucky planter, having four
children, who cultivate his farm, without negroes. He says, "Kentucky
is morally and physically ruined. We have been brought up to live
without labour: all are demoralized. No man's word or judgment is to be
taken for the guidance and government of another. Deception is a trade,
and all are rogues. The west has the scum of all the earth. Long ago it
was said, when a man left other States, he is gone to hell, or Kentucky.
The people are none the better for a free, good government. The oldest
first settlers are all gone or ruined. Your colt, sir, of one hundred
dollars, is worth only fifteen dollars. At Louisville, as good a horse
can be bought at ten dollars, or fifteen dollars. You are therefore
cheated."
The Missouri territory boasts the best land in {335} the country, but is
not watered by springs. Wells are, however, dug, abounding in good
water, says our hearty landlord, just returned from viewing that
country.
The bottom land is the finest in the world. Corn, from sixty to eighty
bushels, and wheat, from forty to sixty bushels an acre. The best
prairies are full of fine grass, flowers, and weeds, not coarse, benty,
sticky grass, which denotes the worst of prairie land. Grass, of a short
fine quality, fit for pasture or hay, every where abounds. The country
is full of wild honey, some houses having made seven and eight barrels
this season, taken out of the trees, which are cut down without killing
the bees. These industrious insects do not sting, but are easily hived
and made tame. Our landlord likes the Missouri, but not so well as Old
Kentucky.
Two grim, gaunt-looking men burst into our room, at two, this morning;
and by six, the landlord disturbed us by cow-hiding his negro,
threatening to squeeze the life out of him.
_6th._--I rode all day through a country of fine plantations, and
reached Frankfort to supper, with the legislative body, where I again
met my gay fellow-traveller, Mr. Cowen. It was interesting to look down
our table, and contemplate the many bright, intelligent faces around me:
men who might honour any nation. As strangers, we were {336} invited by
the landlord, (the best I have seen) to the first rush for a chance at
the table's head.
_7th._--I travelled this day through a fine country of rich pasture and
tillage, to Lexington City, to Keen's excellent tavern. I drank wine
with Mr. Lidiard, who is removing eastward, having spent 1,100_l._ in
living, and travelling to and fro. Fine beef at three cents per lb. Fat
fowls, one dollar per dozen. Who would not live in old Kentucky's first
city?
_8th._--Being a wet day, I rested all day and this night. Prairie flies
bleed horses nearly to death. Smoke and fire is a refuge to these
distressed animals. The Indian summer smoke reaches to the Isle of
Madeira.
Visited the Athenæum. Viewed some fine horses, at two hundred dollars
each.
_Sunday, 9th._--I quitted Lexington, and one of the best taverns in
America, for Paris, Kentucky, and a good, genteel farm-house, the
General Washington, twenty-three miles from the city, belonging to Mr.
Hit, who, though owning between four hundred and five hundred acres of
the finest land in Kentucky, does not think it beneath him to entertain
travellers and their horses, on the best fare and beds in the country.
He has been offered sixty dollars, and could now have forty dollars an
acre, for his land, which averages thirty bushels of wheat, and sixty
bushels of corn per acre, and, in {337} natural or artificial grass, is
the first in the world. Sheep, (fine stores) one dollar per head; beef,
fine, three cents per lb., and fowls, one dollar per dozen.
_10th._--Rode all day in the rain and mud, and through the worst roads
in the universe, frequently crossing creeks, belly deep of our horses.
Passed the creek at Blue-lick, belly deep, with sulphurous water running
from a sulphur spring, once a salt spring. The water stinks like the
putrid stagnant water of an English horse-pond, full of animal dung.
This is resorted to for health.
Five or six dirkings and stabbings took place, this fall, in Kentucky.
_11th._--Breakfasted at Washington, (Kentucky) where we parted with Mr.
Phillips, and met the Squire, and another gentleman, debating about law.
Rested at Maysville, a good house, having chambers, and good beds, with
curtains. The steam-boats pass this handsome river town, at the rate of
fifteen to twenty miles an hour. To the passenger, the effect is
beautiful, every minute presenting new objects of attraction.
_12th._--Crossed the Ohio in a flat, submitting to Kentuckyan imposition
of seventy-five cents a horse, instead of twenty-five, because we were
supposed to be Yankees. "We will not," said the boat-man, "take you
over, for less than a dollar each. We heard of you, yesterday. The
gentleman in the cap (meaning me) looks as though he {338} could afford
to pay, and besides, he is so slick with his tongue. The Yankees are the
smartest of fellows, except the Kentuckyans." Sauciness and impudence
are characteristic of these boat-men, who wished I would commence a
bridge over the river.
Reached Union town, Ohio,[108] and rested for the night.
_13th._--Breakfasted at Colonel Wood's. A fine breakfast on beef,
pork-steaks, eggs, and coffee, and plenty for our horses, all for fifty
cents each. Slept at Colonel Peril's, an old Virginian revolutionary
soldier, living on 400 acres of fine land, in a good house, on an
eminence, which he has held two years only. He now wishes to sell all at
ten dollars an acre, less than it cost him, because he has a family who
will all want as much land each, in the Missouri, at two dollars. He
never had a negro. He knows us to be English from our dialect. We
passed, this day, through two or three young villages.
_14th._--Breakfasted at Bainbridge,[109] where is good bottom land, at
twenty to thirty dollars an acre, with improvements. The old Virginian
complains of want of labourers. A farmer must do all himself. Received
of our landlady a lump of Ohio wild sugar, of which some families make
from six to ten barrels a-year, sweet and good enough.
Reached Chilicothé, on the Sciota river, to {339} sup and rest at the
tavern of Mr. Madera, a sensible young man. Here I met Mr. Randolph, a
gentleman of Philadelphia, from Missouri and Illinois, who thinks both
sickly, and not to be preferred to the east, or others parts of the
west. I saw three or four good houses, in the best street, abandoned,
and the windows and doors rotting out for want of occupants.
_15th._--I rode all day through a fine interesting country, abounding
with every good thing, and full of springs and streams. Near
Lancaster,[110] I passed a large high ridge of rocks, which nature has
clothed in everlasting green, being beautified with the spruce, waving
like feathers, on their bleak, barren tops. I reached Lancaster to rest;
a handsome county seat, near which land is selling occasionally from
sixteen dollars to twenty dollars. A fine farm of 170 acres, 100 being
cleared, with all improvements, was sold lately by the sheriff, at
sixteen dollars one cent an acre, much less than it cost. Labour is to
be had at fifty cents and board, but as the produce is so low, it is
thought farming, by hired hands, does not pay. Wheat, fifty cents; corn,
33-1/2 cents; potatoes, 33 cents a bushel; beef, four dollars per cwt.;
pork, three dollars; mutton none; sheep being kept only for the wool,
and bought in common at 2_s._ 8_d._ per head.
Met Judge and General ----, who states that four millions of acres of
land will this year {340} be offered to sale, bordering on the lakes.
Why then should people go to the Missouri? It is not healthy near the
lakes, on account of stagnant waters, made by sand bars, at the mouth of
lake rivers. The regular periodical rising and falling of the lakes is
not yet accounted for. There is no sensible diminution, or increase of
the lake-waters. A grand canal is to be completed in five years, when
boats will travel.[111]
_Sunday, 16th._--I left Lancaster at peep of day, travelling through
intense cold and icy roads to Somerset, eighteen miles, in five hours,
to breakfast.[112] Warmed at an old quarter-section man, a Dutch
American, from Pennsylvania. He came here eleven years since, cleared
seventy acres, has eight children, likes his land, but says, produce is
too low to make it worth raising. People comfortably settled in the
east, on good farms, should stay, unless their children can come and
work on the land. He and his young family do all the work. Has a fine
stove below, warming the first, and all other floors, by a pipe passing
through them.
I slept at a good tavern, the keeper of which is a farmer. All are
farmers, and all the best farmers are tavern-keepers. Farms, therefore,
on the road, sell from 50 to 100 per cent more than land lying back,
though it is no better in quality, and for mere farming, worth no more.
But on the road, a farm and frequented tavern is found to be {341} a
very beneficial mode of using land; the produce selling for double and
treble what it will bring at market, and also fetching ready money.
Labour is not to be commanded, says our landlord.
_17th._--Started at peep of day in a snow-storm, which had covered the
ground six inches deep. Breakfasted at beautiful Zanesville, a town most
delightfully situated amongst the hills. Twelve miles from this town,
one Chandler, in boring for salt, hit upon silver; a mine, seven feet
thick, 150 feet below the surface. It is very pure ore, and the
proprietor has given up two acres of the land to persons who have
applied to the legislature to be incorporated. He is to receive
one-fifth of the net profits.
_18th._--I rode all day through a fine hilly country, full of springs
and fountains. The land is more adapted for good pasture than for
cultivation. Our landlord, Mr. Gill, states that wheat at fifty cents is
too low; but, even at that price, there is no market, nor at any other.
In some former years, Orleans was a market, but now it gets supplied
from countries more conveniently situated than Ohio, from which it costs
one dollar, or one dollar and a quarter per barrel, to send it. Boats
carrying from 100 to 500 barrels, sell for only 16 dollars.
From a conversation, with an intelligent High Sheriff of this county, I
learn that no common debtor has ever lain in prison longer than five
{342} days. None need be longer in giving security for the surrender of
all property.
_19th._--Reached Wheeling late at night, passing through a romantic,
broken, mountainous country, with many fine springs and creeks. Thus I
left Ohio, which, thirty years ago, was a frontier state, full of
Indians, without a white man's house, between Wheeling, Kaskasky, and
St. Louis.
_20th._--Reached Washington, Pennsylvania, to sleep, and found our
tavern full of thirsty classics, from the seminary in this town.
_21st._--Reached Pittsburgh, through a beautiful country of hills, fit
only for pasture. I viewed the fine covered bridges over the two rivers
Monongahela and Allegany, which cost 10,000 dollars each. The hills
around the city shut it in, and make the descent into it frightfully
precipitous. It is most eligibly situated amidst rocks, or rather hills,
of coal, stone, and iron, the coals lying up to the surface, ready for
use. One of these hills, or coal banks, has been long on fire, and
resembles a volcano. Bountiful nature has done every thing for this
rising Birmingham of America.
We slept at Wheeling, at the good hotel of Major Spriggs, one of General
Washington's revolutionary officers, now near 80, a chronicle of years
departed.[113]
_22nd._--Bought a fine buffalo robe for five dollars. {343} The
buffaloes, when Kentucky was first settled, were shot, by the settlers,
merely for their tongues; the carcase and skin being thought worth
nothing, were left where the animal fell.
Left Pittsburgh for Greensburgh, travelling through a fine, cultivated,
thickly settled country, full of neat, flourishing, and good farms, the
occupants of which are said to be rich. Land, _on_ the road, is worth
from fifteen to thirty dollars; _from_ it, five to fifteen dollars per
acre. The hills and mountains seem full of coal-mines and
stone-quarries, or rather banks of coal and stone ever open gratuitously
to all. The people about here are economical and intelligent; qualities
characteristic of Pennsylvania.
_Sunday, 23d._--We agreed to rest here until the morrow; finding one of
our best horses sick; and went to Pittsburgh church.
_24th._--My fellow traveller finding his horse getting worse, gave him
away for our tavern bill of two days, thus paying 175 dollars for two
days board. While this fine animal remained ours, no doctor could be
found, but as soon as he became our landlord's, one was discovered, who
engaged to cure him in a week. Mr. Wheeler took my horse, and left me to
come on in the stage, to meet again at Chambersburgh.
The country round about here is fine, but there is no market, except at
Baltimore, at five dollars a barrel for flour. The carriage costs two
and half {344} dollars. I saw two young ladies, Dutch farmers'
daughters, smoking segars in our tavern, very freely, and made one of
their party. Paid twelve dollars for fare to Chambersburgh.[114]
Invited to a sleying party of ten gentlemen, one of whom was the
venerable speaker (Brady) of the senate of this state. They were nearly
all drunk with apple-toddy, a large bowl of which was handed to every
drinker. One gentleman returned with a cracked skull.
_25th._--Left this town, at three o'clock in the morning, in the stage,
and met again at Bedford, and parted, perhaps, for ever, with my
agreeable fellow-traveller, Mr. Wheeler, who passed on to New York.
Passed the Laurel-hill, a huge mountain, covered with everlasting green,
and a refuge for bears, one of which was recently killed with a pig of
150lbs. weight in his mouth.
_26th._--Again mounted my horse, passing the lonely Allegany mountains,
all day, in a blinding snow-storm, rendering the air as dense as a
November fog in London. Previous to its coming on, I found my naked nose
in danger. The noses of others were wrapped up in flannel bags, or cots,
and masks for the eyes, which are liable to freeze into balls of ice.
Passed several flourishing villages. The people here seem more
economical and simple, than in other states. Rested at M'Connell's town,
100 miles from Washington city.
{345} _27th._--Crossed the last of the huge Allegany mountains, called
the North Mount, nine miles over, and very high. My horse was belly deep
in snow.
Breakfasted at Mercersburgh, at the foot of the above mountain, and at
the commencement of that fine and richest valley in the eastern states,
in which Hagar's town stands, and which extends through Pennsylvania,
Maryland, and Virginia, from 100 to 200 miles long, and from 30 to 40
broad. Land here, three years ago, sold at 100 to 120 dollars, although
now at a forced sale, 160 acres sold for only 1,600 dollars, with
improvements, in Pennsylvania. And if, says my informant, the state
makes no law to prevent it, much must come into the market, without
money to buy, except at a ruinous depreciation.
Passed Hagar's town, to Boonsburgh, to rest all night, after 37 miles
travel.
The old Pennsylvanian farmer, in answer to "How do you do without
negroes?" said, "Better than with them. I occupy of my father 80 acres
in this valley, and hire all my hands, and sell five loads of flour,
while some of the Marylanders and Virginians cannot raise enough to
maintain their negroes, who do but little work."
_28th._--Breakfasted on the road; passed Middletown, with two fine
spires, a good town; and also Frederick town, a noble inland town, and
next to Lancaster, in Pennsylvania, and the first {346} in the United
States. It has three beautiful spires. It is much like a second rate
English town, but not so cleanly; something is dirty, or in ruins. It
stands at the foot of the Blue Ridge, in the finest, largest vale in the
world, running from the eastern sea to the Gulf of Mexico.
Rested at Windmiller's, a stage-house, thirty miles from Washington,
distinguished only by infamous, ungenerous, extortion from travellers.
Here I paid 75 cents for tea; 25 cents for a pint of beer, 9_s._
sterling for a bushel of oats and corn, and 50 cents for hay for the
night. The horse cost 6_s._ 9_d._ in one night.
_29th._--Rode from seven till eleven o'clock, sixteen miles to
breakfast, at Montgomery-court-house, all drenched in rain. I reached
Washington city, at six this evening. Here, for the first time, I met
friend Joseph Lancaster, full of visionary schemes, which are unlikely
to produce him bread.
_Sunday, 30th._--Went to Congress-hall, and heard grave senators
wrangling about slavery. Governor Barbour spoke with eloquence.
Friend Lancaster's daily and familiar calls on the great, and on his
Excellency, the President, about schooling the Indians, and his praises
of the members, are likely to wear out all his former fame, already much
in ruins. I was this day introduced by him to ---- Parr, Esq., an
English gentleman of fortune, from Boston, Lincolnshire, {347} who has
just returned from a pedestrian pilgrimage to Birkbeck and the western
country.
_February 1st._--I again went to Congress, where I heard Mr. Randolph's
good speech on the Missouri question. This sensible orator continually
refers to English authors and orators, insomuch that all seemed English.
These American statesmen cannot open their mouths without acknowledging
their British origin and obligations.--I shall here insert some
observations on the constitution and laws of this country, and on
several of the most distinguished members of Congress, for which I am
indebted to the pen of G. Waterstone, Esq., Congressional Librarian at
Washington.[115]
_Observations on the Constitution and Laws of the United States,
with Sketches of some of the most prominent public Characters._
Like the Minerva of the ancients, the American people have sprung, at
once, into full and vigorous maturity, without the imbecility of
infancy, or the tedious process of gradual progression. They possess
none of the thoughtless liberality and inconsiderate confidence of
youth; but are, already, distinguished by the cold and cautious policy
of declining life, rendered suspicious by a long acquaintance with the
deceptions and the vices of the world.
Practitioners of jurisprudence have become {348} almost innumerable, and
the great end of all laws, the security and protection of the citizen,
is in some degree defeated. It is to the multiplicity and ambiguity of
the laws of his age, that Tacitus has ascribed most of the miseries
which were then experienced; and this evil will always be felt where
they are ambiguous and too numerous. In vain do the Americans urge that
their laws have been founded on those of England, the wisdom and
excellence of which have been so highly and extravagantly eulogized. The
difference, as Mably correctly observes, between the situation of this
country and that is prodigious;[116] the government of one having been
formed in an age of refinement and civilization, and that of the other,
amidst the darkness and barbarism of feudal ignorance. In most of the
states the civil and criminal code is defective; and the latter, like
that of Draco, is often written in blood. Why should not each state form
a code of laws for itself, and cast off this slavish dependence on Great
Britain, whom they pretend so much to dislike?
With a view of explaining more perfectly the nature of this
constitution, I will briefly exhibit the points in which the British and
American governments differ {349}.
_In England._ _In America._
I. The king possesses imperial There is no king; the president
dignity. acts as the chief magistrate of
the nation only.
II. This imperial dignity is The presidency lasts only four
hereditary and perpetual. years.
III. The king has the sole The president can do neither,
power of making war and peace, without the consent of
and of forming treaties with foreign Congress.
powers.
IV. The king alone can levy The president has no such
troops, build fortresses, and equip power: this is vested in
fleets. Congress.
V. He is the source of all judicial The executive has only the
power, and the head of all appointment of judges, with
the tribunals of the nation. the consent of the senate,
and is not connected with
the judiciary.
VI. He is the fountain of all The president has no such
honour, office, and privilege; can power. There are no titles, and
create peers, and distribute titles he can only appoint to office,
and dignities. by and with the consent of the
senate.
VII. He is at the head of the There is no established church.
national church, and has supreme
control over it.
VIII. He is the superintendent The president has no such
of commerce; regulates the power.
weights and measures, and can
alone coin money and give currency
to foreign coin.
IX. He is the universal proprietor The president has nothing to
of the kingdom. do with the property of the
United States {350}.
X. The king's person is sacred The president is nothing more
and inviolate; he is accountable than an individual, is amenable
to no human power, and can do like all civil officers, and
no wrong. considered as capable of doing
wrong as any other citizen.
XI. The British legislature There are no nobles, and both
contains a house of lords, 300 houses of Congress are elected.
nobles, whose seats, honours,
and privileges are hereditary.
It may, perhaps, be unnecessary to adduce more points of difference to
illustrate the nature of the American government. These are amply
sufficient to demonstrate the entire democratic tendency of the
constitution of the United States, and the error under which those
persons labour, who believe that but few differences, and those
immaterial and unimportant, exist between these two governments. They
have, indeed, in common the Habeas Corpus and the Trial by Jury, the
great bulwarks of civil liberty, but in almost every other particular
they disagree.
The second branch of this government is the legislature. This consists
of a Senate and House of Representatives; the members of the latter are
chosen every two years by the people; and those of the former, every six
years by the legislatures of the different states. It is in this branch
that the American government differs from the republics of ancient and
modern times; it is this which {351} makes it not a pure, but a
representative democracy; and it is this which gives it such a decided
superiority over all the governments in the world. Experience has
demonstrated the impracticability of assembling a numerous collection of
people to frame laws, and their incompetency, when assembled, for
judicious deliberation and prompt and unbiassed decision. The passions
of illiterate and unthinking men are easily roused into action and
inflamed to madness. Artful and designing demagogues are too apt to take
advantage of those imbecilities of our nature, and to convert them to
the basest purposes.
The qualifications of representatives are very simple. It is only
required that they should be citizens of the United States, and have
attained the age of twenty-five. The moment their period of service
expires, they are again, unless re-elected, reduced to the rank and
condition of citizens. If they should have acted in opposition to the
wishes and interests of their constituents, while performing the
functions of legislation, the people possess the remedy and can exercise
it without endangering the peace and harmony of society; the offending
member is dropped, and his place supplied by another, more worthy of
confidence. This consciousness of responsibility, on the part of the
representatives, operates as a perpetual guarantee to the people, and
protects and secures them in the enjoyment of their political and civil
liberties.
{352} It must be admitted that the Americans have attained the _Ultima
Thulé_ in representative legislation, and that they enjoy this
inestimable blessing to a much greater extent than the people of Great
Britain. Of the three distinct and independent branches of that
government, one only owes its existence to the free suffrages of the
people, and this, from the inequality of representation, the long
intervals between the periods of election, and the liability of members,
from this circumstance, to be corrupted, is not so important and useful
a branch as might otherwise be expected. Imperfect, however, as it is,
the people, without it, would indeed be slaves, and the government
nothing more than a pure monarchy.
The American walks abroad in the majesty of freedom; if he be innocent,
he shrinks not from the gaze of upstart and insignificant wealth, nor
sinks beneath the oppression of his fellow-man. Conscious of his rights
and of the security he enjoys, by the liberal institutions of his
country, independence beams in his eye, and humanity glows in his heart.
Has he done wrong? He knows the limits of his punishment, and the
character of his judges. Is he innocent? He feels that no power on earth
can crush him. What a condition is this, compared with that of the
subjects of almost all the European nations!
As long as it is preserved, the security of the citizen and the union of
the states, will be guaranteed, {353} and the country thus governed,
will become the home of the free, the retreat of misery, and the asylum
of persecuted humanity. As a written compact, it is a phenomenon in
politics, an unprecedented and perfect example of representative
democracy, to which the attention of mankind is now enthusiastically
directed. Most happily and exquisitely organized, the American
constitution is, in truth, at once "a monument of genius, and an edifice
of strength and majesty." The union of its parts forms its solidity, and
the harmony of its proportions constitutes its beauty. May it always be
preserved inviolate by the gallant and highminded people of America, and
may they never forget that its destruction will be the inevitable
death-blow of liberty, and the probable passport to universal despotism!
The speaker of the House of Representatives is Mr. Clay, a delegate from
Kentucky, and who, not long ago, acted a conspicuous part, as one of the
American commissioners at Ghent.[117] He is a tall, thin, and not very
muscular man; his gait is stately, but swinging; and his countenance,
while it indicates genius, denotes dissipation. As an orator, Mr. Clay
stands high in the estimation of his countrymen, but he does not possess
much gracefulness or elegance of manner; his eloquence is impetuous and
vehement; it rolls like a torrent, but like a torrent which is sometimes
irregular, and occasionally obstructed. Though there is a {354} want of
rapidity and fluency in his elocution, yet he has a great deal of fire
and vigour in his expression. When he speaks he is full of animation and
earnestness; his face brightens, his eye beams with additional lustre,
and his whole figure indicates that he is entirely occupied with the
subject on which his eloquence is employed. In action, on which
Demosthenes laid such peculiar emphasis, and which was so highly
esteemed among the ancients, Mr. Clay is neither very graceful nor very
imposing. He does not, in the language of Shakespear, "so suit the word
to the action, and the action to the word, as not to o'erstep the
modesty of nature." In his gesticulation and attitudes, there is
sometimes an uniformity and awkwardness that lessen his merit as an
orator, and in some measure destroy the impression and effect his
eloquence would otherwise produce. Mr. Clay does not seem to have
studied rhetoric as a science, or to have paid much attention to those
artificial divisions and rhetorical graces and ornaments on which the
orators of antiquity so strongly insist. Indeed, oratory as an art is
but little studied in this country. Public speakers here trust almost
entirely to the efficacy of their own native powers for success in the
different fields of eloquence, and search not for the extrinsic
embellishments and facilities of art. It is but rarely they unite the
Attic and Rhodian manner, and still more rarely do they devote their
attention to the acquisition {355} of those accomplishments which were,
in the refined ages of Greece and Rome, considered so essential to the
completion of an orator. Mr. Clay, however, is an eloquent speaker; and
notwithstanding the defects I have mentioned, very seldom fails to
please and convince. His mind is so organized that he overcomes the
difficulties of abstruse and complicated subjects, apparently without
the toil of investigation or the labour of profound research. It is
rich, and active, and rapid, grasping at one glance, connections the
most distant, and consequences the most remote, and breaking down the
trammels of error and the cobwebs of sophistry. When he rises to speak
he always commands attention, and almost always satisfies the mind on
which his eloquence is intended to operate. The warmth and fervor of his
feelings, and the natural impetuosity of his character, which seem to be
common to the Kentuckians, often indeed lead him to the adoption of
opinions, which are not, at all times, consistent with the dictates of
sound policy. Though ambitious and persevering, his intentions are good
and his heart is pure; he is propelled by a love of country, but yet is
solicitous of distinction; he wishes to attain the pinnacle of greatness
without infringing the liberties, or marring the prosperity of that land
of which it seems to be his glory to be a native.
{356} The prominent traits of Mr. Clay's mind are quickness,
penetration, and acuteness; a fertile invention, discriminating
judgment, and good memory. His attention does not seem to have been much
devoted to literary or scientific pursuits, unconnected with his
profession; but fertile in resources, and abounding in expedients, he is
seldom at a loss, and if he is not at all times able to amplify and
embellish, he but rarely fails to do justice to the subject which has
called forth his eloquence. On the most complicated questions, his
observations made immediately and on the spur of the occasion, are
generally such as would be suggested by long and deep reflection. In
short, Mr. Clay has been gifted by nature with great intellectual
superiority, which will always give him a decided influence in whatever
sphere it may be his destiny to revolve.
Mr. Clay's manners are plain and easy. He has nothing in him of that
reserve which checks confidence, and which some politicians assume; his
views of mankind are enlarged and liberal; and his conduct as a
politician and a statesman has been marked with the same enlarged and
liberal policy. As Speaker of the House of Representatives, he presides
generally with great dignity, and decides on questions of order,
sometimes, indeed, with too much precipitation, but almost always
correctly. It is but seldom his decisions are disputed, {357} and when
they are, they are not often reversed.[118]
"A Statesman," says Mirabeau, "presents to the mind the idea of a vast
genius improved by experience, capable of embracing the mass of social
interests, and of perceiving how to maintain true harmony among the
individuals of which society is composed, and an extent of information
which may give substance and union to the different operations of
government."
Mr. Pinkney[119] is between fifty and sixty years of age; his form is
sufficiently elevated and compact to be graceful, and his countenance,
though marked by the lines of dissipation, and rather too heavy, is not
unprepossessing or repulsive. His eye is rapid in its motion, and beams
with the animation of genius; but his lips are too thick, and his cheeks
too fleshy and loose for beauty; there is too a degree of foppery, and
sometimes of splendor, manifested in the decoration of his person, which
is not perfectly reconcileable to our {358} ideas of mental superiority,
and an appearance of voluptuousness about him which cannot surely be a
source of pride or of gratification to one whose mind is so capacious
and elegant. It is not improbable, however, that this character is
assumed merely for the purpose of exciting a higher admiration of his
powers, by inducing a belief that, without the labour of study or the
toil of investigation, he can attain the object of his wishes and become
eminent, without deigning to resort to that painful drudgery by which
meaner minds and inferior intellects are enabled to arrive at excellence
and distinction. At the first glance, you would imagine Mr. Pinkney was
one of those butterflies of fashion, _a dandy_, known by their
extravagant eccentricities of dress, and peculiarities of manners; and
no one could believe, from his external appearance, that he was, in the
least degree, intellectually superior to his fellow men. But Mr. Pinkney
is indeed a wonderful man, and one of those beings whom the lover of
human nature feels a delight in contemplating. His mind is of the very
first order; quick, expanded, fervid, and powerful. The hearer is at a
loss which most to admire, the vigour of his judgment, the fertility of
his invention, the strength of his memory, or the power of his
imagination. Each of these faculties he possesses in an equal degree of
perfection, and each is displayed in its full maturity, when the {359}
magnitude of the subject on which he descants renders its operation
necessary. This singular union of the rare and precious gifts of
nature, has received all the strength which education could afford, and
all the polish and splendour which art could bestow. Under the cloak of
dissipation and voluptuousness his application has been indefatigable,
and his studies unintermitted: the oil of the midnight lamp has been
exhausted, and the labyrinths of knowledge have been explored.
Mr. Pinkney is never unprepared, and never off his guard. He encounters
his subject with a mind rich in all the gifts of nature, and fraught
with all the resources of art and study. He enters the list with his
antagonist, armed, like the ancient cavalier, cap-a-pee; and is alike
prepared to wield the lance, or to handle the sword, as occasion may
require. In cases which embrace all the complications and intricacies of
law, where reason seems to be lost in the chaos of technical perplexity,
and obscurity and darkness assume the dignified character of science, he
displays an extent of research, a range of investigation, a lucidness of
reasoning, and a fervor and brilliancy of thought, that excite our
wonder, and elicit our admiration. On the driest, most abstract, and
uninteresting questions of law, when no mind can anticipate such an
occurrence, he occasionally blazes forth in all the enchanting
exuberance of a chastened, but rich {360} and vivid imagination, and
paints in a manner as classical as it is splendid, and as polished as it
is brilliant. In the higher grades of eloquence, where the passions and
feelings of our nature are roused to action, or lulled to tranquillity,
Mr. Pinkney is still the great magician, whose power is resistless, and
whose touch is fascination. His eloquence becomes sublime and
impassioned, majestic and overwhelming. In calmer moments, when these
passions are hushed, and more tempered feelings have assumed the place
of agitation and disorder, he weaves around you the fairy circles of
fancy, and calls up the golden palaces and magnificent scenes of
enchantment. You listen with rapture as he rolls along: his defects
vanish, and you are not conscious of any thing but what he pleases to
infuse. From his tongue, like that of Nestor, "language more sweet than
honey flows;" and the attention is constantly rivetted by the successive
operation of the different faculties of the mind. There are no awkward
pauses, no hesitation for want of words or of arguments: he moves
forward with a pace sometimes majestic, sometimes graceful, but always
captivating and elegant. His order is lucid, his reasoning logical, his
diction select, magnificent, and appropriate, and his style, flowing,
oratorical, and beautiful. The most laboured and finished composition
could not be better than that which he seems to utter {361}
spontaneously and without effort. His judgment, invention, memory, and
imagination, all conspire to furnish him at once with whatever he may
require to enforce, embellish, or illustrate his subject. On the dullest
topic he is never dry: and no one leaves him without feeling an
admiration of his powers, that borders on enthusiasm. His satire is
keen, but delicate, and his wit is scintillating and brilliant. His
treasure is exhaustless, possessing the most extensive and varied
information. He never feels at a loss; and he ornaments and illustrates
every subject he touches. _Nihil quod tetigit, non ornavit._ He is never
the same; he uses no common place artifice to excite a momentary thrill
of admiration. He is not obliged to patch up and embellish a few
ordinary thoughts, or set off a few meagre and uninteresting facts. His
resources seem to be as unlimited as those of nature; and fresh powers,
and new beauties are exhibited, whenever his eloquence is employed. A
singular copiousness and felicity of thought and expression, united to a
magnificence of amplification, and a purity and chastity of ornament,
give to his eloquence a sort of enchantment which it is difficult to
describe.
Mr. Pinkney's mind is in a high degree poetical; it sometimes wantons in
the luxuriance of its own creations; but these creations never violate
the purity of classical taste and elegance. He {362} loves to paint when
there is no occasion to reason; and addresses the imagination and
passions, when the judgment has been satisfied and enlightened. I speak
of Mr. Pinkney at present as a forensic orator. His career was too short
to afford an opportunity of judging of his parliamentary eloquence; and,
perhaps, like Curran, he might have failed in a field in which it was
anticipated he would excel, or, at least, retain his usual pre-eminence.
Mr. Pinkney, I think, bears a stronger resemblance to Burke than to
Pitt; but, in some particulars, he unites the excellences of both. He
has the fancy and erudition of the former, and the point, rapidity, and
elocution of the latter. Compared with his countrymen, he wants the
vigour and striking majesty of Clay, the originality and ingenuity of
Calhoun; but, as a rhetorician, he surpasses both. In his action, Mr.
Pinkney has, unfortunately, acquired a manner, borrowed, no doubt, from
some illustrious model, which is eminently uncouth and inelegant. It
consists in raising one leg on a bench or chair before him, and in
thrusting his right arm in a horizontal line from his side to its full
length in front. This action is uniform, and never varies or changes in
the most tranquil flow of sentiment, or the grandest burst of
impassioned eloquence. His voice, though not naturally good, has been
disciplined to modulation by art; and, if it is not always musical, it
is {363} never very harsh or offensive. Such is Mr. Pinkney as an
orator; as a diplomatist but little can be said that will add to his
reputation. In his official notes there is too much flippancy, and too
great diffuseness, for beauty or elegance of composition. It is but
seldom that the orator possesses the requisites of the writer; and the
fame which is acquired by the tongue sometimes evaporates through the
pen. As a writer he is inferior to the present Attorney-General,[120]
who unites the powers of both in a high degree, and thus in his own
person illustrates the position which he has laid down, as to the
universality of genius.
Mr. R. King is a senator from the State of New York, and was formerly
the resident minister at the court of St. James's.[121] He is now about
sixty years of age, above the middle size, and somewhat inclined to
corpulency. His countenance, when serious and thoughtful, possesses a
great deal of austerity and rigour; but at other moments it is marked
with placidity and benevolence. Among his friends he is facetious and
easy; but when with strangers, reserved and distant; apparently
indisposed to conversation, and inclined to taciturnity; but when called
out, his colloquial powers are of no ordinary character, and his
conversation becomes peculiarly instructive, fascinating, and humourous.
Mr. King has read and reflected much; and though long in public life,
his attention {364} has not been exclusively devoted to the political
sciences; for his information on other subjects is equally matured and
extensive. His resources are numerous and multiplied, and can easily be
called into operation. In his parliamentary addresses he always displays
a deep and intimate knowledge of the subject under discussion, and never
fails to edify and instruct if he ceases to delight. He has read history
to become a statesman, and not for the mere gratification it affords. He
applies the experience of ages, which the historical muse exhibits, to
the general purposes of government, and thus reduces to practice the
mass of knowledge with which his mind is fraught and embellished. As a
legislator he is, perhaps, inferior to no man in this country. The
faculty of close and accurate observation by which he is distinguished
has enabled him to remark and treasure up every fact of political
importance, that has occurred since the organization of the American
government; and the citizen, as well as the stranger, is often surprised
at the minuteness of his historical details, and the facility with which
they are applied. With the various subjects immediately connected with
politics, he has made himself well acquainted; and such is the strength
of his memory, and the extent of his information, that the accuracy of
his statements is never disputed. Mr. King, however, is somewhat of an
{365} enthusiast, and his feelings sometimes propel him to do that which
his judgment cannot sanction. When parties existed in this country, he
belonged to, and was considered to be the leader of what was denominated
the federal phalanx; and he has often, perhaps, been induced, from the
influence of party feeling, and the violence of party animosity, to
countenance measures that must have wounded his moral sensibilities; and
that now, when reason is suffered to dictate, cannot but be deeply
regretted. From a rapid survey of his political and parliamentary
career, it would appear that the fury of party has betrayed him into the
expression of sentiments, and the support of measures, that were, in
their character, revolting to his feelings; but whatever he may have
been charged with, his intentions, at least, were pure, and his
exertions, as he conceived, calculated for the public good. He was
indeed _cried down_ by a class of emigrants from the mother country, who
have far too great a sway in the political transactions of the United
States; and though, unquestionably, an ornament to the nation which has
given him birth, his countrymen, averse to him from party
considerations, joined in the cry, and he became a victim, perhaps, to
the duty he owed, and the love he bore to his country. Prejudice,
however, does not always continue, and the American people, with that
good sense which forms so prominent a feature of their character, are
beginning justly to appreciate those {366} virtues and talents, they
once so much decried. Mr. King has a sound and discriminating mind, a
memory uncommonly tenacious, and a judgment, vigorous, prompt, and
decisive. He either wants imagination, or is unwilling to employ a
faculty that he conceives only calculated to flatter and delight. His
object is more to convince and persuade, by the force of reason, than to
amuse the mind by the fantastic embroidery and gaudy festoonings of
fancy. His style of eloquence is plain, but bold and manly; replete with
argument, and full of intelligence; neither impetuous nor vehement, but
flowing and persuasive. His mind, like that of Fox, is historical; it
embraces consequences the most distant with rapidity and ease. Facts
form the basis of his reasoning. Without these his analysis is
defective, and his combinations and deductions are often incorrect. His
logic is not artificial, but natural: he abandons its formal divisions,
non-essentials, moods, and figures, to weaker minds, and adheres to the
substantials of natural reason. Of Mr. King's moral character I can say
nothing from my own personal knowledge, as my acquaintance with him has
not been long and intimate enough to enable me to judge correctly. I
have not, however, heard any thing alleged against it calculated to
lessen his reputation as an honourable statesman, or a virtuous member
of society. He is wealthy, and has, no doubt, something of pride and
hauteur in his manner, {367} offensive to the spirit of republicanism,
and inconsistent with the nature of equality; but, as a father, husband,
and friend, I have not yet heard him charged with any dereliction of
duty, or any violation of those principles which tend to harmonize
society, and to unite man to man by the bonds of affection and virtue. I
must now beg permission to despatch the portrait of Mr. King, in order
to submit to your inspection an imperfect likeness of another member of
the same body. This is not the country to look for the blazonry and
trappings of ancestry; merit alone claims and receives distinction; and
none but the fool or the simpleton, ever pretends to boast of his
ancestry and noble blood, or to offer it as a claim to respect or
preferment. The people alone form the tribunal to which every aspirant
for fame or honour must submit; and they are too enlightened and too
independent to favour insignificance, though surrounded by the splendour
of wealth, or to countenance stupidity, though descended from those who
were once illustrious and great.
James Barbour is a senator from Virginia, his native state.[122] He was
in his youth a deputy sheriff of the county in which he was born, and
received an education which was merely intended to fit him for an
ordinary station in life. He felt, however, superior to his condition,
and stimulated by that love of fame which often characterizes genius, he
devoted himself to study, and became {368} a practitioner of the law. He
rose rapidly in his profession, and soon acquired both wealth and
reputation. Like most of the barristers of this country, he conceived
that to be a lawyer was necessarily to be a politician, and he rushed
forward into public life to extend his fame and enlarge his sphere of
action. From a member of the house of delegates he was elevated to the
gubernatorial chair of Virginia, and received the highest honour his
native state could confer. Gratified thus far in the wishes he had
formed, he became desirous to enter on a more enlarged theatre, where
his talents would have a greater field of action, and his eloquence a
wider range and better effect, and he accepted the situation of senator
of the United States.
Mr. Barbour commenced his career with a speech against the establishment
of the national bank, which was then in agitation. He had come fraught
with prejudices against this mammoth institution, and in the fervor of
the moment gave vent to those prejudices in a manner certainly very
eloquent, but not very judicious. When he had soberly weighed the good
and evil with which it might be attended, the peculiar condition of his
country, and the necessity of adopting some scheme by which the
difficulties of government should be obviated, and its financial
embarrassment relieved, he very candidly confessed the error into which
his feelings had betrayed him, and {369} in a speech, conceived and
uttered in the very spirit of true eloquence, supported the measure.
Mr. Barbour is, in person, muscular and vigorous, and rather inclined to
corpulency. His eyebrows are thick and bushy, which gives to his
countenance a little too much the appearance of ferocity, but this is
counterbalanced by a peculiar expression in his visage, that conveys a
sentiment of mildness and humanity. He seems to be above forty years of
age, and is about five feet ten inches high. Of his mind, the prominent
characters are brilliancy and fervor. He has more imagination than
judgment, and more splendor than solidity. His memory is not very
retentive, because it has never been much employed, except to treasure
up poetical images, and to preserve the spangles and tinsel of oratory.
As an orator, Mr. Barbour has some great defects. His style is too
artificial and verbose, and he seems always more solicitous to shine and
dazzle than convince or persuade. He labours after splendid images, and
strives to fill the ear more with sound than sense. His sentences are
sometimes involved and complicated, replete with _sesquipedalia verba_,
and too much charged with "guns, trumpets, blunderbuss, and thunder." He
has unfortunately laid down to himself a model, which, with reverence be
it spoken, is not the best that could have been adopted. Curran has gone
a great way to corrupt the taste of the present age. His powers {370}
were certainly very extraordinary, but his taste was bad, and by
yielding too much to the impulse of a highly poetical imagination, he
filled the mind of his hearer with fine paintings indeed, and left it
at last glowing, but vacant, delighted, but unconvinced. Too many of the
youths of this country seem to be smitten with the model which he has
thus given, and which is certainly calculated to fire an ardent mind,
and lead it astray from the principles of correct taste and genuine
oratory. Mr. Barbour, however, is frequently not only very fluent but
very persuasive, and he often employs his full flowing oratorical style
to great advantage in setting off his argument, and in decorating and
enforcing his reasoning. From the want of opportunities, his reading,
like that of most of the politicians of this country, has been confined,
and his range of thought, from the absence of that knowledge which books
afford, is necessarily limited. He has, indeed, derived advantages from
an association with men of literary and scientific attainments, but he
has still much to acquire to render him eminent as a statesman. The
contributions, which, from this circumstance, he is compelled to levy on
his own unaided native resources, have, however, tended to sharpen his
intellectual powers, and to give them vivacity and quickness. Mr.
Barbour seldom thinks deeply, but he is always rapid; and though his
observations are sometimes trite and ordinary, there is almost always
something {371} new and gratifying in the manner in which they are
uttered. His mind does not appear organized for long continued
investigation, and nature has formed him more for a poet than a
mathematician. He is rather too anxious to be thought a great orator,
and this over-ruling propensity is manifested even in common
conversation; when, instead of ease, simplicity, and conciseness, he
discovers the formal elocution of the public speaker, on the most
unimportant and incidental subjects. In private circles, Mr. Barbour is
always very pleasant, and exhibits a politeness, which, flowing from
the heart rather than the head, delights all who have the pleasure of
his acquaintance, and renders him an acceptable guest, and an agreeable
companion.
There is a native openness and benevolence in his character, which
excite the love of all who know him, and which powerfully attract the
stranger as well as the friend. He seems superior to the grovelling
intrigues of party, and always expresses his feelings, in the bold and
lofty language of conscious independence and freedom. There is a marked
difference between this gentleman and his brother, Mr. Philip P.
Barbour,[123] a member of the House of Representatives, in the
respective faculties of their mind; the latter is more logical, and also
more laborious and indefatigable. He seems to have a peculiar tact for
those constitutional and legal questions which {372} are involved and
obscure, and possesses that clearness and vigor of mind necessary to
unfold what is complicated, and illuminate what is dark. He casts on
such subjects so powerful a light, that we wonder we should ever have
doubted, and behold at once the truth, stripped of all its obscurity.
The former seldom attempts an analysis of such questions. He reasons,
but his reasoning is not so much that of a mathematician, as of an
advocate who labours to surprise by his novelty, and to fascinate by the
ingenuity of his deductions, and the ease and beauty of his elocution.
He has more genius than his brother, but less judgment; more refinement
and elegance, but less vigor and energy. It appears to me that there is
a vast deal of what may be denominated _law mind_ in this country,
which will ultimately reach a point of excellence that must astonish the
world. The fondness for the profession of the law, at present, is
wonderful; almost every man, whatever be his means of support, or grade
in society, if he have children, endeavours to make one of them, at
least, a disciple of Coke, or a "fomentor of village vexation," and you
cannot enter a court-house, without being astonished at the number of
young men, who are either studying or practising the law. This, however,
is not a matter of surprise, when we consider the facility with which
this profession leads to preferment and distinction, and the ease with
which it seems to be acquired. Amidst such {373} a mass of _law mind_,
therefore, as exists here, excellence must hereafter be attained, if it
has not now reached its climax; and the Cokes, the Mansfields, and
Ellenboroughs of England are, or will soon be, equalled in this country.
The future destinies of this republic cannot be fully anticipated; the
march of mind is progressive and resistless, and intellectual
pre-eminence must be attained where so many inducements are offered to
effect, and so few impediments exist to prevent it. Mind is often
regulated by the circumstance in which it is placed, and fashioned by
the objects by which it is surrounded. This country is, therefore,
peculiarly favorable for the expansion and development of the
intellectual powers. Physical, as well as moral causes, operate to this
end. The eye of an American is perpetually presented with an outline of
wonderful magnificence and grandeur; every work of nature is here on a
vast and expansive scale; the mountains, and lakes, and rivers, and
forests, appear in a wild sublimity of grandeur, which renders the
mountains, lakes, and rivers of Europe, mere pigmies in comparison. The
political and religious freedom, too, which is here experienced,
removes all shackles, and gives an elasticity, a loftiness, and an
impetus to the mind that cannot but propel it to greatness. Thus
operated upon by moral and physical causes, what must be the ultimate
destiny of the people of this country, and the range and expansion of
intellect which they {374} will possess? Devoted as they are for the
most part to studies and professions, which have a tendency to enlarge
and liberalize the mind, and influenced by the causes I have mentioned,
it would be worse than stupidity to suppose they could long remain an
inferior people, or possibly avoid reaching that point of elevation of
which mankind are capable. The _law mind_ of this country has now
attained a high degree of splendor, and is in rapid progress to still
greater excellence. There are many men, in this country, though so much
calumniated by British writers, who would shed a lustre on the bench of
that nation, and not suffer by a comparison with some of the brightest
luminaries of English jurisprudence.
Before I quit this body of American worthies, I must introduce to your
acquaintance, as succinctly as possible, another member of the senate,
who, though not so conspicuous as the two former, in the walks of public
life, is not inferior to any in this country, in all that constitutes
and dignifies the patriot and the statesman. Mr. Roberts is from
Pennsylvania.[124] He is a plain farmer, and was, once, I understand, a
mechanic. Though he cannot boast of a liberal education, yet nature has
given him a mind, which, with early improvement, would have made him
prominent in any sphere in life. It is vigorous and powerful in no
ordinary degree, and the sophistry of art, and the dexterity of
learning, are often foiled and defeated {375} by the unaided and
spontaneous efforts of his native good sense. But he has that which is
of more sterling advantage, both to himself and his country,--immoveable
political and moral integrity. It is gratifying, in this age of
corruption and voluptuousness, to contemplate men like Aristides,
Fabricius, and Cato. They exhibit to us the true dignity of man, and
hold out examples that we must feel delighted to imitate. They show us
to what pitch of excellence man is capable of attaining, and rescue the
exalted condition of human nature from that odium and disgrace which
profligacy and corruption have heaped upon it. No spectacle can be more
sublime or more elevating than he, who, in the hour of public danger and
trial, and amidst the allurements and fascinations of vice, stands like
a rock in the ocean, placid and immoveable, and endures the dangers that
surround, and braves the storms and tempests that beat upon him, with
undeviating firmness, for the safety of his country and the glory of his
God! The mind rests upon such a character as the eye upon a spot of
fertility, amidst deserts of sand, and we rise from the blood-stained
page of history, and the corruptions of the living world, with a heart
filled with love, admiration, and reverence, by the contemplation of the
few who have shed an imperishable lustre on the exalted character of
man. This description is not exaggerated; it is drawn from nature and
truth, and {376} fancy has nothing to do with the picture. But I must
now hasten to finish my portraits of American characters.
Mr. Bagot,[125] the English minister to this government, appears to be
about thirty-five years of age. He is tall, elegant, and rather graceful
in his person, with a countenance open and ingenuous, an English
complexion, and eyes mild though dark. He has ingratiated himself with
the Americans, by the real or affected simplicity of his manners, and by
assimilating himself to their usages and customs. He has thrown aside
the reserve and hauteur of the English character, as not at all suited
to the meridian of this country, and attends to all with equal courtesy
and politeness. I can say nothing of the powers of his mind, but they do
not appear to be more than ordinary. It has always seemed to me very
strange policy on the part of the British cabinet, to appoint ministers
to this country of inferior capacity and inconsiderable reputation,
while the Americans send to our court only their most prominent and
leading men, who have distinguished themselves by their ability and
their eloquence.
The French minister, M. Hyde de Neuville,[126] is a "fat, portly
gentleman," with a broad chest, big head, and short neck, which he seems
almost incapable of turning _ad libitum_. He is full of {377} Bourbon
importance and French vivacity; has petits soupers every Saturday
evening during the winter, and spends his summer at the springs, or his
country residence, in extolling the virtues of his beloved Louis _le
desiré_. I do not think that M. Neuville, though an amiable, and, I
understand, a benevolent man, has that kind of talent which would
qualify him for the station he holds, or that, in the event of any
difficulty arising between this country and France, he could counteract
the intrigues of diplomatic ingenuity, or benefit his nation, by
inducing the American cabinet, though I believe he is highly esteemed,
to adopt any measure not manifestly advantageous to the United States.
He has been many years a resident of this country, and was driven from
France by the persecutions of Buonaparte. He is said to have evinced for
his exiled countrymen much feeling and interest, and to have given them,
while strangers and unknown in a foreign land, all the aid he could
afford. His acts of benevolence certainly redound to the credit of his
heart, and I should be sorry to say any thing that would disparage the
qualities of his head. He is too much occupied with his own, or other
people's concerns, to attend to the little or the complicated intrigues
of courts, and though he resides here as a representative, yet he now
represents a cypher.
* * * * *
{378} _4th_.--To tea with J. C. Wright, Esq., to meet a young man, Mr.
Dawson, who is giving up a school here to go as "Teacher to the Cherokee
nation of Indians." Much enthusiasm takes him there; little will be
needed to bring him back again. Since my return, Washington has been
visited by some very distant and interesting tribes of Indians, with the
following account of whom I have been favoured by a friend residing
there.
_Some account of the Indians who visited all the Chief Cities in
the Eastern States, and made a long stay in Washington in the
winter of 1821_.
These Indians were the chiefs and half-chiefs of tribes from the most
western part of this continent with which we are at all acquainted, and
came under the guidance of Major O'Fallan[127] from the Counsel
Bluffs.[128] All of them were men of large stature, very muscular,
having fine open countenances, with the real noble Roman nose, dignified
in their manners, and peaceful and quiet in their habits. There was no
instance of drunkenness among them during their stay here. The
circumstances which led to their visit were singular. A missionary, who
had been amongst them a few years back, on renewing his visit recently,
found an old chief, with whom he was acquainted, degraded from his rank,
and another appointed in his place. This led to inquiries after the
cause, which proved to be that this chief having, during a considerable
{379} absence from his tribe, visited some of the cities of the whites,
carried back such a report of their houses, ships, numbers, wealth, and
power, that they disbelieved his account, and degraded him as a man
unworthy of being longer their chief. They inquired of their
missionaries, who confirmed the statement, and they met in council with
other tribes, and resolved that a deputation should, in company with the
representative of the great father, "see if things were so," and if they
were, the chief should be reinstated. They have returned, saying the
"half was not told them." Red Jacket[129] (of whom you have heard) used
to say, that "the great spirit was too great a being to overlook red
men; that he listened to the talk of red men as well as to the talk of
white men;" but these natives of the forest thought the great spirit
favoured white men more than red. An anecdote is related of one of the
chiefs (a Pawnee) which is a well authenticated fact, and recorded by
Dr. Morse in his account of visits to the western regions.[130] The
tribe of the Pawnees had taken a woman prisoner from a neighbouring
tribe with whom they were at war, and, as was their custom, they made
every preparation to offer her a sacrifice to the great spirit. Every
thing was prepared, the wood, the green withes, and the fire, and the
victim, when this chief suddenly flew and seized her, carried her under
his arm to a neighbouring thicket, where {380} he had prepared horses
for her and himself, and riding away at speed, he, after three days'
travelling through the woods, returned her in safety to her tribe and
friends. This event was considered by the Pawnee tribe as an
interference of the great spirit in her favour, and on the return of the
chief no questions were asked him on that subject, nor has a woman been
offered a sacrifice by that tribe since. As a compliment justly due to
his gallant exploit, a number of ladies in this city had a medal made,
and presented to him in due form, in the presence of all the Indians; on
one side of which was represented the preparation for the sacrifice,
and on the reverse the chief running off with a woman under his arm, and
two horses stationed at a short distance, surmounted by this
inscription, "To the bravest of the Braves," (the Pawnees are also
called the Braves). These Indians excited so much interest from their
dignified personal appearance, and from their peaceful manner, that they
received a great number of rich presents, sufficient to fill six large
boxes in New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington; these were
forwarded before they left us. Their portraits, which are gone with
them, were taken in oil by Mr. King in their native costume, buffalo
skins, with the hair inside, turned back at the neck and breast, which
looked very handsome, like fur collars. Eight, however, the chiefs and
{381} the squaw, Mr. King copied and keeps himself.[131] He received 400
dollars from _Uncle Sam_ for it. There was a notice in the papers that
the Indians would dance and display their feats in front of the
President's house on a certain day, which they did to at least 6,000
persons. They shewed their manner of sitting in council, their dances,
their war whoop, with the noises, gesticulations, &c. of the centinels
on the sight of an approaching enemy. They were in a state of perfect
nudity, except a piece of red flannel round the waist and passing
between the legs. They afterwards performed at the house of his
Excellency M. Hyde de Neuville. They were painted horribly, and
exhibited the operation of scalping and tomahawking in fine style.
The Otta half-chief[132] and his squaw have taken tea with and
frequently visited us. She was a very good natured, mild woman, and he
shewed great readiness in acquiring our language, being inquisitive,
retaining any thing that he was once informed, and imitating admirably
the tones of every word. He spent the evening with us before they
finally left the city. I took himself and squaw into Dr. Barber's room,
and opened gently the skeleton case. He looked slyly in, and the wife
wanted to look, but he put himself in an attitude to represent a dead
person, and said, "_no good, no good_." She still wanted to see, but he
would {382} not let her. Three others came afterwards wanting to see it,
who, when I opened it, raised themselves up in a dignified manner and
said, "_very good_," one of them taking hold of the hand said, "how you
do."[133] The Otta half-chief and squaw afterwards saw it together and
were very well pleased. Our children were all full of play with them,
and the squaw nursed the younger ones. Margaret wanted to go with them.
The calumet[134] of peace (the tomahawk pipe and their own sumach
tobacco) frequently went round, and they expressed a wish to see us
again.
I have recorded much of the vocabulary of these Indians, and would
transcribe it, but have not room. They count by tens as we do, for
instance, _noah_, two; _taurny_, three; _crabraugh_, ten; _crabraugh
noah_, twenty; _crabraugh taurny_, thirty, &c. They hold polygamy as
honourable; one wife, _no good_; three, _good_; four, _very good_. In
their talks with the residents they shew no wish to adopt our habits.
_5th._--To dine with Dr. Dawes at his poor, worn out farm, of which he
is already tired. The Doctor seems one of the best Englishmen I have met
in America.
_Sunday, 6th._--Dr. Rice[135] preaching this day in Congress-hall before
the senate, and representatives, {383} called the assembly, polite,
just, respected, respectable, and deemed it unnecessary to mention sin
and human depravity.
American husbands abound in outward politeness and respect to their
wives; and gentlemen, in general, are excessively attentive to the fair
sex, rising and leaving their seats, even at church, to accommodate the
late coming ladies. I gave much offence, on a recent occasion, by my
want of gallantry in this particular. The meanest white woman is here
addressed by the title of _Madam_.
It may also be mentioned, as a proof of superior civilization and
refinement in manners, that a stranger cannot, in this country, enter
and join a party or social circle, without being publicly presented by
name, and exchanging names and hearty shakes of the hand with all
present. Should he, however, happen to enter and take his seat without
submitting to this indispensable ceremony, he must remain dumb and
unnoticed, as an intruder, or as a person whose character renders him
unfit for introduction, and for the acquaintance of any. But, on the
other hand, when properly presented, he is instantly at home; and ever
after, at any distance of time and place, acknowledged as entitled to
the goodwill and friendship of all who thus met him. Friendships are
thus formed and propagated, and the boundaries of society in the new
world extended. It would hence be impracticable for me to be half an
hour, as has happened to me in England, {384} unknowingly present with a
person of distinction; and many unpleasant mistakes and
misunderstandings are thus obviated.
_8th._--I heard Mr. Speaker Clay deliver a splendid speech of four hours
long on the Missouri slave-question. His voice fills the house; his
action is good and generally graceful.
I met this evening Mr. Smith, a young gentleman from Lincolnshire, the
fellow-traveller of Mr. Parr, who walked through the west, and admired
all! He is not determined on continuing here; he has a good farm in
England. He and Mr. Parr have been introduced by a member of Congress to
the President, who sat half an hour familiarly talking with them, in a
plain, domestic, business-like manner.
_Sunday, 13th._--From the Speaker's chair in Congress-hall, I heard the
young, learned, and reverend professor Everett, of Cambridge University,
(aged 29) preach most eloquently to the President and legislature of
this great empire.[136] His voice, bewitchingly melodious, yet manly,
filled the house, and made every word tell, and every ear hear. "_Time
is short_," was the subject. His discourse was full of high praise of
this land, it being, he said, (in my own language) "the only resting
place for liberty, who, when driven hence, must ascend in her pure,
white robes to heaven. No more new continents will be discovered for
her reception, and therefore let this nation wisely {385} keep her
asylum here." He then spoke very warmly against kings, lords, and
priests, and what he called the toleration of man and his rights. "In
England they tolerate liberty; and what is liberty there? A shadow! But
here, a substance! There her existence is only nominal. She is mocked by
her very name." Independent of its moral instruction, this sermon was a
fine specimen of oratory, and greatly interested the members of both
houses, who very cordially shook the preacher by the hand. Though not
forgetting slavery in his discourse, the professor seemed too partial to
it.
This gentleman had just returned from his tour through Europe, where he
visited Sir Walter Scott, and other distinguished literati, and preached
in London.
I met Mr. Lowndes, the Howard of America, at Mr. Elliott's. He says,
that "Harmony presents much moral philosophy in practice. Flesh and
blood had hard work at first, but now they have but few desires to
gratify. Nature seems under the hatches, and they have little to wish,
want, or fear. But theirs is a stagnant life."
_14th._--Read Mr. John Wright's pamphlet on Slavery, in which he uses my
name in reference to my negro letter, and shows very clearly the evil
effects of slavery on the character of this country, and proves the
unalterable nature of the black man's right to liberty, and its
benefits.
{386} Mr. Rufus King, a member for New York, a gentlemanly English-like
speaker, confines himself to business, and to the grand fundamental
principles of every political question, and the consequences likely to
result from extending slavery over the continent. "In time," says he,
"you will enable the blacks to enslave the whites. Why, therefore,
should we of the free, be compelled to suffer with you of the slave
states?"
_18th._--I supped with Dr. Alison,[137] Chaplain to Congress, a
gentleman possessing every variety of knowledge. He is the friend and
correspondent of the Ex-presidents Jefferson and Adams, and of the
present President, and is known all over the country by his virtues.
This gentleman was visited by the black Baron de Vasey, and his friend,
from St. Domingo, who supped with him. On their quitting the room, the
doctor's black servant set up a laugh, which might be heard by the
baron, and all, far and near. "What's the matter, Sam?" said the doctor.
"Why, two niggers sat and took tea with my massa, at the same table!!"
In Virginia, the doctor complained of his fears of being murdered by the
negroes, one hundred of whom were owned by his hostess. She cried and
said, "she hoped the Lord would protect her." "Oh, no! you must not look
to the Lord for it; it is not there." She said she would free them, if
she could find any body to support them. Freed slaves must quit the
states, or be sold by it for slaves again! {387} Colonel Taylor has a
black uncle, a slave, for his body guard, and most owners are related to
their black cattle. A gentleman of Washington, too kind-hearted to whip
his house-negroes himself, leaves it to his wife, a fashionable,
beautiful female, holding, and going to levees, yet able to cow-hide her
negroes, whose screams, under the lash, scare Mrs. Little and family. A
cow-hide is no uncommon appendage of ladies here!
Squire Simpson, an old emigrant from England, whom I have before
mentioned as living near this city, once acted as a magistrate. Two
parties came before him for justice, but neither of them seemed disposed
to submit to his worship's decision. At last, the most choleric of the
two thus addressed Mr. Simpson: "Well! I don't see, I guess, that we can
settle it fairly. So here's at you. I'll fight you, Squire!" Both then
went out, magistrate and man, and decided the affair by battle. Simpson
was victor.
_24th._--Revisited Dr. Dawes, who is full of improving his farm by a
summer fallow, and turning it into grass without a crop. He has paid
only half the cash for his farm of 500 acres, because the title cannot
be completed. Any one, says ex-squire Simpson, would take it off his
hands. The doctor deems, as does Sir H. Davy, that plaster of Paris is
the natural food of plants; and it is found, more or less, in almost all
soils, particularly in England, {388} where manuring with plaster is
found to have but little effect, but in this country vice versâ.
Visited Mr. Plant, who holds 400 acres, all cleared and enclosed long
ago, and exhausted too, at 100 dollars a year rent, offered for sale at
fifteen dollars an acre, poor but useful, light, sandy loam, shining
bright with silvery mica. He manages this estate without a capital, by
the labour of himself, one slave and a boy; he hires none. He has sold
Bradford's Rest, a large estate, costing seven dollars, for 20 dollars
per acre; well sold!
_26th._--I rode this day to the bench of his worship, Squire Arden, with
Doctor Dawes, who was served with a warrant for a small debt for goods.
I carried the Doctor's diploma, to prove him a physician, authorized to
write prescriptions. The plaintiff is a neighbour of the Doctor's, who
had prescribed for his family, and therefore pleaded a set off. The
plaintiff then swore he would prove that the Doctor never was sent for
nor came! The Doctor considers almost all here as unprincipled and
conspiring against his cash. Quitting the diploma for the plough, he
gave up a practice of 400 or 500 pounds a year, at Wisbeach, in England,
where he was highly esteemed. His humanity here to poor exiles,
distinguishes him as a patriot and a philanthropist, and entitles him to
the applause and goodwill of all mankind. In September last, poor John
Steed, the English Quaker, {389} was fed, housed, physicked, and
restored to health, by this benevolent man. Steed was returning to
England; but how to return without money? There was money for him! My
warm-hearted friend, _the watchman_, a dear friend of the Rev. I.
Leathes, brother-in-law of the late Bishop of Bristol, put into Steed's
empty hands a purse, amply sufficient for his land and sea expenses.
This was noble! It is well to praise man for his humanity to a suffering
brother, but better to ascribe all the glory to his Maker, who gives
all, and blesses him with a generous heart, and who has promised that
"He who deviseth liberal things, by liberal things shall he stand."
_March 11th._--I revisited the astronomical, mathematical, and
philosophical Mr. W. Elliott, dining on vegetables only. He states that
it is impossible for a sensible, honest Englishman to prefer this
country to his own; and in knowing that he has quitted England for ever,
he experiences a feeling indescribably painful. To return no more is a
word next to death. Although he would not, at present, desire to live in
England, yet he would not advise any to quit who can live in it. The
soil here is unfit for man, and for an Englishman particularly. Both
mind and body barbarize and degenerate. He feels, at first, sanguine,
but soon after he begins to judge and compare, and finds that though the
government allured him here, yet that all is not gold that glitters. He
becomes {390} weak and emaciated, and drifts into the habits of the
country, where he is no longer the man he thought himself at first. The
labouring poor here are far behind, and more miserable than the poor,
bold peasantry of England. No man needs labour here long, if he would
work and not drink excessively; but he drinks and is undone.
_Sunday, 12th._--Met J. G. Wright, Esq. who has consumed, in segars, for
his own use, since he began smoking, twenty years since, 700 barrels of
flour, at the present price. One hundred and fifty dollars annually is
the cost of his smoking.
_14th._--The Hon. T. Law brought, it is said, half a million sterling
with him to this country, but has lost two-thirds of it. He married the
niece of General Washington, the most beautiful lady in Virginia; and,
at her uncle's request, Mr. Law settled on her, in case they parted,
15,000 dollars a year. The event, which seemed thus to be anticipated,
soon after occurred; for Mr. Law visiting England soon after his
marriage and leaving his wife in America, she, during his absence,
eloped with a young dashing officer in the army. Mr. Law returned only
to part with one of the most accomplished ladies in the land. She still
lives in high style, and her house is the resort of the most fashionable
parties.[138]
By Mr. Sutton, an English gentleman from Cheshire, I was this day
introduced to an hour's conversation with Mr. John Law, a lawyer of this
{391} city, son of Mr. Thomas Law, above mentioned. This gentleman
occupies a mean office, but seems very sprightly and acute, and though a
plain republican, has much of the blood of the Laws in him. He states
that he is in expectation of receiving 80,000_l._ from Sir Wm. T----,
for purchasing land in the wilds of the west, which is to increase in
value greatly in twenty years. For the same purpose, he also wishes to
get 150,000_l._ from English capitalists, who never mean to emigrate,
but who only wish to invest money in western lands. There are several
millions of acres, some of which, military lands in Illinois, are
selling at 37 and 50 cents an acre. Mr. Law proposes to be the agent,
and live on the spot, to settle poor emigrants from England on it, by
finding them implements and money for commencing, which is to be repaid
in produce. They are to live seven years rent free. He would make it his
business to interest emigrant societies in favor of this speculation, by
which the posterity of such capitalists are to benefit greatly. Mr. Law
is to receive only one quarter of the cash for his own trouble, that is,
_only_ about 37,000_l._ or 40,000_l._ out of the 150,000_l._
Birkbeck (he says) must be rich in ten years; which ten years of life he
admits a man must sacrifice before he can arrive at _comforts_. Ohio, he
states, has proved what time can do for a wilderness; and I say, that
time has proved that those {392} enriching improvements made by hands,
and not by time, can be bought any where for less than they cost in that
State, or almost in any other, Kentucky perhaps excepted.
_A reflection or two on litigation!_--The Judges here have not legal
knowledge enough for their station; and of course not weight of
character or dignity sufficient to fill it well. Counsellor Jones and
Key, of "_star-spangled banner_" fame, influence, and carry their
honours almost as they please.[139] The bar is greater than the bench!
Litigation frequently arises here from the imaginary independence which
one man has, or fancies he has of others, to show which, on the least
slip, a suit is the certain result. It is bad for the people that law is
cheap, as it keeps them constantly in strife with their neighbours, and
annihilates that sociability of feeling which so strongly characterizes
the English. From the constant litigation amongst the people of this
country arise that antisocial apathy, and want of those kindly feelings
of the heart, which shew themselves on all occasions, in the conduct and
character of the people of the old country. There were more suits for
debt in Washington county court, in a late term, (seventeen hundred),
than, perhaps, in all England! Further comments are left to the reader.
Judge Parsons, while only an advocate, completely upset the evidence
against a prisoner who employed him, and that in the following manner.
{393} The witnesses against the prisoner were all sailors. The advocate
disguised himself as a sailor, and offered to bet them twenty dollars
that the accused would not be hanged. They readily accepted the bet, and
when they came, over anxious to give evidence and convict the prisoner
at the bar, the learned counsel confounded them with their bet, the
court spurned their evidence, and the prisoner, though guilty, escaped
by this learned stratagem. At another time, in an important case of law,
where several parties were interested, he was requested to plead, he
said, "No! I cannot see my way clear." They then offered him 1,000
dollars for his neutrality, which he took. The other side then came.
"No," said he, as before. "Well then," said they, "if you will not plead
for us, we will give you 1,000 dollars not to be against us;" which sum
he took, and left other advocates to talk.
Edward C----, late in the service of Joseph Vipan, Esq. of Sutton, is
here elevated from the smock frock and stable, to the dress and society
of a merchant in this city. So great is the change and so mighty the
tyranny of custom, that what were his duties last year, would now be a
disgrace to him. Another would-be gentleman, in the same store, was
requested to assist his employer, a polished Englishman, in rolling a
barrel of dried fish out of the cellar into a cart only. "Oh! no, that
is _nigger's_ work," said he; and then left a good situation within two
hours after {394} he came to it. Such are the blessed effects of
slavery!
_15th._--Met Mr. Cooper, an English gentleman, at Washington, who has
grown comfortable rich, and has recently bought about 300 acres of land,
near this city, so exhausted, that no produce can be had from it for
years to come. The system pursued here, if carried into the old country,
would soon lay it waste, more effectually than either fire or sword. It
is more difficult to raise a hundred dollars here than a hundred pounds
in England. Individuals, who are rich in land, are generally without
cash, and have their personalty seized, and sold for small debts, of a
few dollars only.
_16th._--All kinds of fruit and vegetables (potatoes excepted) are now
remarkably scarce, and enormously dear, insomuch that they are not seen,
during the winter and spring, except on the tables of the rich. In
summer they cost as much or more than butcher's meat; yet thousands of
acres, all round the city, close to water and manure, are to be had by
any body free of rent! In summer the potatoes were one dollar fifty
cents per bushel; now, eastern potatoes sell for 50 to 75 cents, and
nothing but potatoes come on the tables of the bulk of the people. What
is the cause? "Why," says one, "the gardeners get rich and ride in their
single horse chaise, because the business is so profitable. They have no
competition. {395} Whatever they send to market is sold only at their
own price. It is their will to have 150 per cent, above the value of an
article. Rather than undersell, they would carry home their vegetables
for the cattle and pigs!" So that the will of the gardener governs the
price, although the means of opposition are open to all! The poor farmer
comes to market with his flour, but _his_ will is to take just what is
offered him. He is not in the gardener's secret of insisting and willing
to have ten dollars a barrel for flour, when worth only four dollars and
a half. But what is the real cause of the high price of vegetables in
this soil and climate of Washington? Why, no body gardens; not even the
rich; because they can buy cheaper than they can raise them; and it is
found that none but the poor, humble man, who has no capital, will
attempt it, because others can employ capital more profitably than in
gardening. It is therefore an undoubted fact, that the soil and climate
do not admit of vegetables being raised, at a much lower price than that
at which they are actually sold. In summer, continual watering and
shading are absolutely necessary, and the soil is poor into the bargain;
insomuch that the seed rises so weak, that the sun would burn up the
plants instantly, without great attention to shade and watering, and if
this were not so, myriads of grasshoppers would eat all in spite of any
measures for their preservation.
{396} _Winter Prices of Garden-stuff_
Winter greens, lightly put in, one quarter dollar per peck.
Spinach, the same.
Cabbages, of about four oz. weight, yellow and bad, having been buried
from the frost, four cents each.
Potatoes, seventy-five cents a bushel.
Carrots, bad and scabby, 9_d._ sterling, to one quarter dollar per peck.
_23rd._--Commodore Stephen Decatur[140] fell this day in a duel, having
killed five men in the same way himself. He swore shamefully at the
doctors while dying, because they could not extract the fatal ball from
his bowels. He is called by the National Intelligencer, "One of the
bright stars of Columbia, set for ever!" And the country is summoned to
mourn for him. The president and the heads of departments, with military
and naval officers and citizens, walked in procession at his funeral.
The laws of heaven and earth, on this subject, are here quite insulted,
by common consent. A lady of this district, hearing that her husband was
gone to fight a duel, fifty miles off, sent an express, charging that he
should be brought home a corpse rather than disgraced. It is a rule here
always to take skilful aim, and if one party chooses to reserve his
fire, he may go up and shoot the other, if he does not beg for his life.
{397} A gentleman once would not beg it, but the other said, "If your
life is not worth asking for, it is not worth taking!" And so fired in
the air.
A sinecure, or something in the nature of one, is held by Joseph
Paulding, Esq. of Washington.[141] The holder of this situation is
enjoined to write in defence of the American character and government,
and at the same time to vilify the British. Mr. Colvin, late editor of
the National Register, in a critique on Lancaster's lectures, says,
"that we (meaning America) are more virtuous than the people of other
nations, I cannot believe. It is sufficient that we are equal, not
worse." That there is no great superiority of moral worth on the part of
America, the following anecdote will prove. A gentleman seduced the
sister of his own wife, and then, to hide her disgrace, disguised his
wife in the uniform of a lieutenant of the United States' navy, and
married the young woman to her. The lieutenant of course went to sea
immediately, and, poor man! was never heard of more. The nuptials were
celebrated by candle-light, and all the gay company, except the priest,
were parties to this ingenious trick!
_24th._--Flour now is only four dollars and a half a barrel, five
bushels to a barrel. After hauling, grinding, and the cost of the empty
barrel, are deducted, it is seen that the farmer only receives two
dollars fifty cents, for five bushels of fine wheat. Under such
circumstances, where is profit?
{398} _Sunday, 26th._--I left this city and old friends, to return,
perhaps, no more. At Baltimore, on my way to Philadelphia, I met Joseph
Lancaster, teaching a few small children.
_28th._--Again at Philadelphia, where British and French goods are
selling at 200 per cent. under cost. So great is the distress for money,
that the regular merchants are sending their stock to auction. I visited
Mr. Potter, an English merchant, who has been established here ever
since the peace of 1786. He is now rich, but loves England still. He was
intimately known to the Duke of Kent. He says that corruption is rising
into an English sense, even here; and adding the state and general taxes
together, they make a sum little short of English taxation.
_29th._--Six hundred prisoners are this day in a state of mutiny,
endeavouring to escape by violence from the Philadelphia state prison.
One is shot, and three or four are wounded. The mail robbers now in
custody killed the driver of the mail, but they have restored all the
money, and pray that they may not be hanged.
_31st._--I parted with my old friend C., who promised to meet me again
at Baltimore, in June. I reached Newcastle, Delaware State, and visited
its old Golgotha, on a bluff, near the river Delaware, which washes the
feet of the dead, exposes a great part of the coffin, and bleaches the
skulls and bones of men. Numbers of horses tread on the {399} graves and
break in the coffins, for here is nothing to protect these bones from
insult.
I saw the effect of the late freezing rain on the trees, which, over an
extent of country six times as large as England, has despoiled trees as
completely as if chain shot had passed through them all. The trees and
shrubs are laden with ice, a weight ten times that of their own boughs.
Many farmers lost nearly all their timber and orchards: a ship also was
upset by the great weight of the ice adhering to her rigging.
_April 7th._--I met with a black gentleman who has bought a beautiful
farm, with a good house and improvements, six miles only from
Philadelphia, at twenty dollars an acre, at a sheriff's sale. A law has
just passed to prevent any more selling under two thirds of a fair
valuation. A quaker whom I met, states that Joseph Lancaster injured
himself by going to Baltimore. He did not succeed at Philadelphia, the
only place where he could have succeeded, because he expected more
attention from the inhabitants of that city, than they ever pay to any
body.
Visited Peale's museum,[142] a fine collection of native and foreign
curiosities, amongst the former of which are the skeleton of a mammoth,
15 feet high, and horns, nine feet long, under the belly of which, as
under an arch, a horse might run full gallop. I crept down the throat of
an alligator. {400} Several bodies of Indian chiefs are here to be seen
dried, standing in their usual dresses and attitudes, as well as some
Otaheiteans.[143] There is also the skin from the thighs and legs of an
Indian, tanned by Indians into fine leather, for thus they use their
prisoners taken in battle. I saw the manuscript of a poem of Major
André, penned about two months before his execution.[144] Here is also a
fine collection of national portraits.
_8th._--I this day set sail from Philadelphia for Charleston, in the
_General Wade Hampton_, and anchored at Newcastle in the evening.
_Sunday, 9th._--I rode with the captain, in his chariot, to the
beautiful seat and extensive powder mills of E. S. Dupont, Esq.[145] on
the Brandywine creek, a fine stream full of natural falls and working
many mills. We went for 500 barrels of gunpowder. Mr. Dupont, who
pressingly invited us to dine, seems a liberal, intelligent Frenchman,
of large capital, which sometimes vanishes by explosion, together with
the doors and windows of his elegant mansion.
During this twenty miles ride, I observed that thorn quicks are here
generally used as an outward fence, but they are badly managed. I saw,
on poor wet lands, large heaps of lime, formed by oyster shells and
stone, gathered and burnt for manure; in this way cheaply turning stone
into bread.
We received this evening three or four physicians {401} and other
passengers, to the number of ten or twelve, on board the _Wade Hampton_.
_10th._--At three, this morning, we got under weigh, sailing into the
bay of Delaware, and by noon arrived opposite to the light-house.
A family (says the Captain) from England, of the name of Clementson,
recently bought an estate from a scoundrel old countryman, of the name
of Watson, living at Philadelphia, at a price 200 or 300 per cent. above
its value. They paid in part about 6,000 dollars, but being unable to
pay the remainder, and having no written contract, he induced them to
quit and go to the wilds of Ohio, where, he said, he had much land at a
low price, which they should have for the money in his hand. He also
kindly gave them a letter of credit to his agent there; but on arriving,
they found that he was unknown, and had no land, nor agent; and they
were in consequence forced to sell their horses, waggon, and every
necessary, to enable them, in unspeakable distress, to return to
prosecute this scoundrel; but they had no evidence against him, and
therefore found it advisable to lose their money without going to law.
Having about 2,000 dollars left, they purchased and stocked a farm
bigger and better than the one for which they were to have paid 8,000,
or 10,000 dollars. Old countrymen, it is said, make the most complete
rascals.
_11th._--Now at sea, exposed to head-winds and sea-sickness. An Irish
gentleman from Missouri, {402} states that last week, on board the
steam-boat, he met a black archbishop and several of his inferior
clergy. This most reverend father in God was endeavouring to prove that
Adam, Noah, and all the prophets, and patriarchs, down to Jesus Christ,
were blacks, and that a small portion of mankind, and that the worst,
are whites, of whom Cain is the progenitor.
The Missouri Irishman has invested 50,000 dollars in land, the
advantages of which he deems to be yet dubious and prospective. He says
that society is bad, and that the people are unprincipled.
_12th._--Two old German gentlemen, heroes of the revolution, now on
board, state, that they knew the accomplished and unfortunate Major
André. When taken by three militiamen, in the capacity of a British spy,
endeavouring to seduce West Point, he was dressed as a citizen, instead
of appearing in the regimentals of his country, which greatly aggravated
his crime. He offered his gold watch and purse, and large pecuniary
compensation to be released, but the three men were firm. Both sides
regretted, and were unwilling to witness, his death; and the American
government would have saved him, if the British would have given up the
traitor Arnold. He was fairly tried, and no precipitation evinced
towards him. He thanked the court martial for their gentlemanly
treatment, submitted to his fate as a matter of course, and {403} with
great firmness prepared himself for it. Three months elapsed between his
apprehension and execution. But when he was led out to execution, and
saw the gallows instead of the rifle, his firmness, in some measure,
forsook him. He was elegantly dressed in his martial suit, and on giving
his cravat to his waiting man, only said, "I die for the honour of my
king and country;" at which General Green, the American commander, who
presided in the midst of the surrounding army on this sad occasion,
shook his head, and observed, "No! you die for your cowardice, and like
a coward!"
General Washington signed the order for his death with great reluctance;
but the army were dissatisfied and demanded the sacrifice. The example
was necessary and salutary, and in its general consequence calculated to
deter men of honour and respectability from such military meanness.
Major André hoped to the last to escape. The tories, of whom he was one,
had previously murdered some of the citizens and officers, in
consequence of which, General Washington determined on retaliation by
executing one of the British tory officers then prisoners, and ordered
them to draw lots to decide who of their number must die. The lot fell
on Sir Charles Asgill, who, but for the French influence of Count
Vergennes, and a most pathetic letter from the baronet's mother, would
have been executed.[146]
{404} The quakers, about New Jersey, were very loyal, and locked up the
wells, and withheld all aid from the rebels!
_Sunday, 16th._--Fine breeze; sailing by Cape Hatteras, to pass which
occupied two days. A strong current of air is here found, rushing to the
land, accompanied generally with tempestuous gales. A gap in the
Allegany mountains, towards which this current rushes, is said to be the
cause.
_18th._--At three o'clock this afternoon I landed at Charleston, and
found all nature in its most beautiful attire. Peas and all kinds of
summer vegetables are in great abundance, and the peach-trees full of
fruit. I found that my much respected friend, N. Russell, Esq. had died
only a fortnight since; he kindly inquired after me in his extremity.
_19th._--I met my old shipmate, Mr. Moses Wood. I bought twilled nankeen
trowsers for two dollars and a half. London clothes of good and best
kinds sell at lower prices than in London.
_Rattlesnakes._--A gentleman informed me that he once shot a rattlesnake
as thick as his thigh, and 26 years old. Its age is known by its tail.
It was near biting him. A neighbour of his left his house in search of
his swine, and being long away, his wife went after him and found him
dead, killed by a snake, to the bite of which the poor deceased had
applied a quid of tobacco, then found sticking on the wound. Another
neighbour, {405} who was also bitten, managed to walk home before he
fell, but died very soon after his arrival. I was told, also, of a
planter, out with his dogs and rifle after a deer, which he shot; but on
bringing it to lay on the horse, a rattlesnake struck the man, who was
found dead, with the buck and horse, which being tied to a tree was
starved to death. Thus they were all found dead in one heap together.
_20th._--By conversation with Judge King, to whom I presented J.
Wright's pamphlet on slavery, I learn that my negro case was much
noticed, and its exposure much and indignantly regretted. Mr. King says
that it was indiscreet in me to report facts, except from the evidence
of my own senses! If no testimony is to be received, but that of our own
eyes, half the evidence in the world is worthless. The Carolinians love
slavery, and hate all who hate it. Both Mr. King and Mr. Duncan state,
that in consequence of that affair, and of my being a foreigner, a
stranger in a strange land, if Gregory should prosecute me for an
advertisement, which I found it necessary, in pursuing the claims on the
Rugeley property, to publish against him, I should meet with but little
mercy from the jury!
_21st._--Called on Patrick Duncan, Esq., and took a final leave of him
and his beautiful gardens, in which are oranges, figs, sugar-canes,
pomegranates, and the prairie grass of South America, soft as silk in
hand.
{406} Received, from my warm-hearted Irish friend, Mr. Wood, 50 dollars,
an unsolicited loan, although he knows me not. Here is faith, greater
than almost any I have yet found in America.
The slave-owners, in this state, must maintain all their helpless and
infirm slaves, or kill them privately. They cannot become chargeable to
the parish, or state. O humanity, where art thou!!! As a punishment for
the lassitude of age, or the idleness of youth, a _nigger_ is stripped
naked, well flogged, then dressed all over with treacle (or molasses)
and hung up by his heels on a tree, in a swamp full of flies and
mosquitoes, which lick up the sweets, and sting and bleed him dreadfully
into the bargain. He is then a living lump of inflammation. What
ingenious torture this! how refined! how honourable to the taste and
ingenuity of a nation, the freest of the free, and who boast of
superabundant polish and civilization!
When with my cousin, Major Rugely, in May last, I was presented with a
beautiful black female baby, that could just creep, and which was given
and intended to be sent as a keepsake to my lady in England; but I, not
being qualified for a nurse at sea, nor indeed by land, declined this
well-intended gift. The Major then possessed a poor negro, who wishing
to die, was constantly detected in the act of eating dirt or lumps of
earth, a habit which procured for him a cow-hiding daily! I might have
had him, and branded him with my own {407} brand, F. As cattle it is
necessary so to distinguish one herd from another, and if they stray, or
are stolen, to advertise their persons, correctly describing the mark,
or brand, which is deeply burnt in, and never obliterated, unless it is
cut out!
_Sunday, 23rd._--I bade, this morning, a willing and final farewell to
Charleston city, and to all its bugs, mosquitoes, negroes, and
alligators, and a race of people, many of whom seem not much better than
they. I left behind me some copies of J. Wright's pamphlet on slavery,
for his Excellency, Governor Geddiss, the Attorney-General Haines, the
editor of the Courier, Mr. Thomas Mitchel, and Mr. Judge King, the
latter of whom promised to keep his a profound secret. The press seems
here to be more enslaved than under the most despotic government. At
night I found myself at sea, 60 miles from Charleston, in the
_President_ for New York. Fare, 25 dollars.
_25th._--I saw two young alligators emigrating to the north. Mr. Morse
(the son of the geographer, Dr. Morse)[147] states, that at New Haven
University, Connecticut, an education of four years costs only 1,000
dollars, board included. The same gentleman states, that in Connecticut,
republicanism and equality exist in greater purity than in any other
part of the union. The farmers and people generally live economically
and comfortably, surrounded with a cheap abundance of all the {408}
necessaries of life, but they keep no domestic servants, male or female.
They are their own servants. As to negroes, scarcely one is to be seen
in a day's travel. The people generally are so well educated in this
state, that almost any man is qualified for a schoolmaster in any of the
sister states. Dr. Paley's moral philosophy is a text book in their
college.
_26th._--A young gentleman on board, from the state of Albania, says
that Mobile, out of 600, lost 530 inhabitants, by the yellow fever last
summer. In winter the population is from 2 to 3,000.
A dashing English gentleman travelling through this state with a white
servant behind him, rode up to a one-room log-tavern, and begged the
landlord to let him have a room to himself, which was agreed to. In a
few minutes up came two native travellers, _equals_, who entered without
ceremony, when the Englishman began to curse the landlord for permitting
the intrusion. He replied, that he meant that the gentleman should have
the room to himself until other travellers came up.
_29th._--At ten this morning we made Sandyhook light-house. The scenery
here, all the way up to the city of New York, is delightful. Perhaps the
views presented by this city and neighbourhood are unequalled, both as
it respects the beauties of nature and the works of art. I landed at six
o'clock, and was introduced by Messrs. Morse {409} and Co. to the
boarding-house of Mrs. Mudge, where I met Mr. Dwight, a brother of the
late eminent Dr. Dwight, now editor of the New York Advertiser.[148] In
person this gentleman is said to be much like the Doctor.
_Sunday, 30th._--I accompanied Mr. Morse to the splendid Presbyterian
church of the eloquent Dr. Romaine,[149] whose prayers are the most
appropriate in manner and matter, and whose sermons are, with the
exception of Dr. Storton's, superior to any I have heard in America. On
this day, the appearance of this large city is most orderly and
christian-like. This laudable change is attributed to Sunday-schools.
All places of worship are thronged. How unlike Washington city! Mr.
Morse states that not only in New York, but in all the east, a religious
feeling generally pervades the people.
_May 1st._--Passed over to Brooklyn, a beautiful gay-looking village of
great extent in Long Island, in quest of my old friend, and western
fellow-traveller, Mr. Wheeler, whom I found three miles from the city,
living on a hired farm of about 30 acres of arable land, and six in
wood, or rather cedar, on which is a beautiful house, to which I was
warmly welcomed. It consists of six small rooms and piazzas on each
side, standing in an orchard fronting the public road, which, for four
miles, is like one continued suburban village all the way from New York.
The farm cost, two {410} years ago, without a house or well, 3,500
dollars, and the house and well have since cost 1,500 dollars. Mr.
Wheeler has hired this situation for one year only, at the rent of 300
dollars, ten dollars an acre, all poor and long-exhausted land, insomuch
that nothing can be raised without manure, which is bought at one dollar
per load, and hauled three miles.
Land, thus situated, is expected to be devoted to raising garden-stuff,
or to be occupied only as a suburban retreat. The mere farmer can
scarcely live out of it, even if it is his own, unless he cultivates
vegetables, and carries his milk to New York market, in small
quantities, daily. Those who have lived here eighteen or twenty years,
on their own estates, have only just lived, saved nothing, and been
always their own servants. Mr. Wheeler has three servants, one black
man, and a white man and woman. The white man has 100 dollars a-year;
the black man ten dollars a month; and the woman five dollars and board,
working from sun-rise to dark.
_2nd._--After dinner, Mr. Wheeler ordered out of the plough into the
carriage, his pair of handsome greys, when, with the ladies, we drove to
the beautiful neighbouring villages of New-town, Flushing, and Jamaica,
at the latter of which is the residence of Rufus King, Esq. a house by
no means equal to those of the village squires of England, yet very
inviting. Perhaps no where, {411} except in the vicinity of London and
Bath, can a more attractive ride of twenty miles be found; the whole
distance of road, from the city, seeming one continued village of new
and handsome farm-houses, with either a pleasure-garden, or green
pasture, or orchard, or all of them, in front of almost every house, any
of which may be bought, boards being up, _For sale, this farm_. But the
land, in every direction, is poor, except where superior and expensive
management exists. Every thing is sold from the land, which might make
manure and enrich it. The leaves of the forest trees now begin to
appear. The spring is late, yet the orchards are in full bloom. The
frost was severe last night.
Though he has three servants, Mr. Wheeler cleans his own boots. They
would not absolutely refuse, but would do it reluctantly, and feel
disgraced by the act; yet two of them are good servants. A black servant
lately broke into the cellar and dairy of Mr. Wheeler, and stole all the
bread and meat he could find; he is now in gaol. About two years ago, in
great rage with his sister, he caught hold of her head, and endeavoured,
with an axe, to chop it off; but not being able to get it into a fit
place, he chopped off two of her fingers, and nailed them on the
door-post!
_4th._--I made, on horseback, the tour of York island, about ten miles
in length and two in breadth. On one side is the noble Hudson, or great
North River, and on the other, the East River {412} and Hell-gate, and
the beautiful villages of Manhattan, Haarlem, and Greenwich. All the
road from the city, to the extremity of, and beyond the isle, is
adorned, on both sides, with the country-seats and pleasure-grounds of
rich citizens, who, like those of London, every morning and evening
drive to and fro in great numbers. Perhaps no city in the world is so
happily situated as that of New York, standing on this island, with the
sea to the south, and these majestic rivers, from one to two miles wide,
on the north and east, the banks of which are very high, and for twelve
miles crowned with mansions. The houses on the roads, thus leading
through the isle to the city, have each from five to ten acres of green
pasture, park, or pleasure-gardens, which renders them more rural,
though less splendid than those on the roads leading to London. I saw
from fifty to 100 convicts, heavily ironed, forming a new road for the
state; receiving no pay nor shirts, but only food.
I visited the supreme court, and inquired for Messrs. Emmett and
Sampson, but saw not these celebrated refugees.[150]
Mr. Wheeler agreed to purchase a quantity of seed corn from a neighbour,
which was to be picked, but much of it came in rotten. Mr. W. returned
the rotten part, and begged other corn to be sent in its place. "No,
send it all back! that is not the way we deal here;" in great rage,
{413} said the farmer, "you may do so in your country, but not here."
_5th._--Bade farewell to Long Island, and my much esteemed friends, the
Wheelers, who pressingly invited me to stay longer. I renewed my
invitation to them to come and make Whitehall their home, when, if ever,
they came to England.
I quitted New York, for Philadelphia, at ten this morning. Left a
history of Somersham for Mr. F. Morse of Newhaven.
Visited one of the packet-ships, the _James Monroe_, the most complete I
ever saw; every birth is a state room. For forty guineas, it transports
passengers to Liverpool in high style. All are fed luxuriously.
_6th._--At six this morning, I left Borden town, on the Delaware, where
are the ruins of Joseph Bonaparte's house, about to be rebuilt. Sixty
men are employed already. The estate, consisting of 300 acres, all poor
land, is now laying out into pleasure-grounds, and park, enclosed with a
fine fence; it cost five dollars an acre. Joseph came hither, it is
said, with ten millions of dollars from the Spanish treasury.
I reached the City of Philadelphia at ten this morning, just
twenty-eight days after I left it, since which time I have travelled
about 2,000 miles, and rested eleven days.
_Sunday, 7th._--I was present when Dr Storton, {414} administered the
rites of baptism to a large, respectable auditory. He is rather pompous
in his expressions, and theatrical in his action and manner, but
certainly an accomplished man. He has said that there is no preaching
talent in America but what is imported; but this is not strictly true.
_11th._ I wrote the following epistle to Mr. Day, of St. Ives in
England, by the ship Electra, bound for London.
_May 11, 1820._
Dear Sir,
At this distance of time and place, the recollection of you is
replete with all that is good and pleasant to me; while the esteem
and regard always professed and felt for you demand, at least, one
epistle, as a thing not to be withheld. I should have had great
pleasure in your correspondence, but it is now too late, as my
duties here are nearly at an end, and by the time this reaches you,
I hope, under the guidance of gracious Providence, that the
compass, in unison with my heart, will be pointing me towards my
own home and country.
The inducements to emigrate, and the facilities of living here, are
neither so great nor so many as I wished and expected to find them.
The majority of those who come are without capital and above useful
labour. Of this kind seem our friends ---- and ----, and others
known to you, whose {415} prospects are, I assure you, very
shadowy. I speak impartially. Even capital, I believe, can any
where be better employed than here. And as to labourers, there are
more than can be paid. By the late report of this city, it appeared
that 11,000 within these walls were in a state of unemployed
pauperism; while in one prison only, are 600 thieves and
incendiaries, the natural fruits of increasing poverty.
Land, generally, is not property in this country, because there is
infinitely more than enough; the surplus, therefore, is worth
nothing. What is already in cultivation by hired hands lessens,
rather than augments capital. Even potatoes, you know, cannot be
produced from one without the agency of the other. The markets are
all glutted, and without foreign demand, a surplus produce is not
desirable, because unsaleable and perishable.
All travel is restless labour, and "vanity and vexation of spirit."
Its idea was once so supremely fascinating to my ambition, that I
thought I never could have enough of it, and therefore wished
myself doomed to perpetual travel. I have my wish, or something
like it, and it disappoints me. During the last two years I have
indeed found "no continuing city;" it is well if I seek and find
one to come. I fly from city to city, from town to town, state to
state, climate to climate, with the velocity of an eagle. I have
frigid and tropical latitudes, polar cold and equinoxial heat,
wintry desolation, {416} and the summery foliage of oranges and
myrtles, all in the short space of one week, or less. For although
this beautiful city of William Penn lies in an Egyptian latitude,
winter has not long been over; whereas, it never enters the city of
Charleston, which I have just quitted, where
"Blossoms and fruits and flowers together rise,
And all the year in rich confusion lies."
The male youth generally of this, and other cities, are remarkably
polished, sprightly and prepossessing in their exterior; being of
tall and slender figures, and looking free and easy, without any
thing like levity, for each puts on all the airs, manners, actions,
and opinions of men, with his _first_ pair of breeches, and expects
to be treated as a man. But ringlets decorate the faces of both
sexes, and in other respects all are dandies, male and female! The
young ladies generally are not so handsome as the males; though
beauty is not rare amongst them. A woman's duties and province are,
I think, yet undiscovered. She is here, that is, in all sections
south of the Delaware, a little divinity, to whom all must bend,
give place, and pay idle homage; her tyranny is great, her
influence unbounded. Her lover, or husband, is outwardly her slave;
but as a wife, mother, mistress, she must yield to my unequalled
countrywomen. Youth here, is of very short duration; all soon look
old; and "all the days of the years of this vain life," soon come
to an end. Religion and duty seem but little understood, {417} and
less regarded, except it be to ascertain how little of either may
suffice. Paley's Moral Philosophy has been, perhaps, the text book
of the educated, who are very numerous; yet but few live and die
practical philosophers. Death is little dreaded, and often, as in
duelling, voluntarily embraced. Two selfish gods, Pleasure and
Gain, enslave the Americans. The scum of all the earth is drifted
here.
As this is sent off about a month after my other, and will be my
last letter from this country, I wish you to inform my good father,
if living, and Mr. Ingle, of my present refuge and intended return,
and assure them of my best regards. My beloved child, who,
by-the-bye, would become in part your ward if I returned no more,
is very precious in my sight; if you knew her, I should beg you to
pronounce a father's blessing on her; but it comes to her on every
western breeze. When I can, I will teach her to esteem you, and
perpetuate, what is of little value, the disinterested and most
sincere friendship of,
Dear Sir,
Your very obedient servant,
W. FAUX.
_11th._--Mistrust and suspicion are general in Philadelphia. The cause
is a general disregard or violation of duty. Two respectable quakers
would not suffer Mr. ---- to owe them eight {418} dollars for a day or
two, though guaranteed by a second person, who, for any thing they knew,
might be respectable; so they took out two pieces of muslin to reduce
the bill down to the funds in hand. "Notwithstanding this guarantee,"
said the quaker, "I will, and must have the thing squared." The
representative of my friend then paid the complete balance. I was
present at this transaction, and feeling both pained and amused, began
to speculate upon it, and to consider what could have generated this
general suspicion and distrust. It is the common effect of some cause.
What cause? A general violation or neglect of some prominent duties, not
directly guarded by the laws, but the observance of which is
indispensable to the good of mankind every where. Culpability of this
kind, in not doing to others as we would be done by, does more injury to
the world than all the thieves and incendiaries put together; because
the consequence in one case is particular, in the other illimitable. If
I act justly towards my neighbour, I confer both temporal and moral good
on him and on myself. But it stops not here: he learns thereby its
value, and acts in like manner towards others. On the other hand, if I
violate my duty to him, he retaliates not only on me, but on others
indiscriminately. He thinks he has been honest and unsuspicious long
enough, and bids adieu to rectitude perhaps for ever.
Last month at Dover, Delaware, Squire Loper {419} received sentence of
the court for passing forged notes, knowing them to be so. He had been
in the commission of the peace for 20 years, and received the forged
notes from a gang convicted before him of forgery. The notes had
remained in his hands ever since. A month ago, he desired a gentleman, a
neighbour of his going to Philadelphia, to buy him some iron, and
meeting the gentleman privately, gave him fifty dollars, saying, "Take
notice it is a fifty dollar note," and gave it him carefully wrapped in
paper. When the bearer offered it for the iron, it was discovered to be
one of the forged notes, well known to have been offered by the gang
before. The gentleman had some difficulty in keeping out of the
Penitentiary. On proving himself not to be a party concerned, and
promising to bring the Squire forward, he was released. The Squire
admitted the note to be forged, and said, he gave it to his friend only
in joke. On being arrested, he was treated with great liberality, but he
acted haughtily and foolishly. On his trial he would not employ counsel
nor set up any defence; but in a cool, sneering manner said, that the
note was given in joke, and the court might do as they would. He was
sentenced to six months' solitary confinement, thirty-nine lashes, and
never after to pass out of his own house in Dover without the letter F,
a foot long in scarlet, on his back, on pain of another six months'
confinement and thirty-nine stripes. But so great was the {420} public
pity for him, in court and out, both with judge and jury, that the
prison door was left open for him in hope that he would escape and quit
the neighbourhood for ever. He did escape into the town only, and came
back to prison voluntarily, where no such chance is again to be afforded
him.
At night, I went to the black church, where the black minister shewed
much uncultivated talent. After sermon they began singing merrily, and
continued, without stopping, one hour, till they became exhausted and
breathless. "Oh! come to Zion, come!" "Hallelujah, &c." And then, "O
won't you have my lovely bleeding _Jasus_," a thousand times repeated in
full thundering chorus to the tune of "Fol de rol." While all the time
they were clapping hands, shouting, and jumping, and exclaiming, "Ah
Lord! Good Lord! Give me _Jasus_! Amen." At half-past ten this meeting
broke up. For an hour it seemed like Bedlam let loose. At the close, one
female said, striking the breasts of two male friends, "We had a happy
time of it."
_16th._--Last week, in the state of Delaware, the High Sheriff had to
perform the duty of Jack Ketch, and hang his own nephew, for the murder
of his _own_ mother, the Sheriff's sister. The youth killed her by
striking her with a club on the temple. In the same neighbourhood and
the same week another youth was sent to gaol for poisoning his uncle, a
rich old gentleman, who being childless, had {421} taken this nephew
into the house and made him heir to all; but the youth being impatient,
went to a druggist for arsenic, which he said was to kill the rats, that
every night kept his uncle from sleeping. He mixed a portion of it in a
glass of apple-toddy and gave it to his uncle, but in so large a portion
that it began to operate immediately, on which the old man said, "You
have given me something to do me harm." The youth denied it, but the old
man grew rapidly sick, and feeling conscious that he was poisoned and
should die before the distant doctor could arrive, got out the will in
favor of the ungrateful youth, and having burnt it, died soon after.
A short time ago, the friends of a murderer, under sentence of death in
Pennsylvania, conspired together to procure a pardon from the governor,
by threats and intimidation. Their plan was to get the governor into a
room to themselves, and offer him his own life for the pardon of Lieut.
Smith, the convict, who had cohabited with Mrs. Carson, and taken
possession of her house and property, during the absence of her
husband, Captain Carson. When the latter returned and demanded his wife
and property, he was shot dead in his own house by Smith. The governor
had intelligence of the plot, and seized the conspirators before they
could carry their design into effect.
_Sunday, 21st._--Quitted Philadelphia on board the steam-boat. A
gentleman, Lieut. Skinner, of {422} the United States' navy, from the
Franklin, just arrived from Gibraltar, states, that the sailors, on
settling accounts, will go on shore and spend the balance, several
hundred dollars, in two or three days, lavishing from 100 to 200 dollars
a-day, until all is gone, when they re-enter. So indifferent are they to
the use and value of money, that they give it away, and suffer any
person to plunder them with impunity. The cause, says he, of this
indifference and insane extravagance, is to be found in the strictness
and severity of the discipline on board, where money is of no use to
them.
_Duelling._--So frequent were these meetings between the officers of the
United States' navy and the British garrison, that the governor felt
compelled to interfere, in order to save life, as one or two duels
occurred daily, originating in the most foolish disputes.
The parties met always on neutral ground. For any expression uttered by
one officer of the 64th regiment, a general challenge was sent by the
officers of the United States' navy to the regiment; wishing to include
_all_, from the colonel down to the lowest in rank.
Two young Americans, of New York, at Gibraltar, met in consequence of a
trifling dispute. The offending party fired three times without hitting,
while his opponent fired every time into the air, begging the other to
apologize, saying, "If I take aim I shall kill you, but I can stand all
your {423} fires." This concession was, however, obstinately refused; on
which the seconds stepped forward, and said to the party who had acted
so generously, "Sir, you must fire in your own defence!" Both again
charged, and Sands, the aggressor, fell dead. The survivor was arrested,
but acquitted with honour; being told by his commander, that if he had
not acted thus, he would not have received him again into the service.
The young reprobate who fell, was a classical scholar, of fine person
and great mental accomplishments, but ripe for perdition.
_22nd._--I reached Washington city, now emptied of the wise men, and
which, after quitting Philadelphia, seems mean, indeed, both morally and
physically. All the bogs and swamps, in and round the city, are now full
of melody, from the big, bellowing bull frog, down to the little singing
mosquito, while rotting carcases and other nuisances perfume the warm
southern breezes.
A lady, in a letter to Mr. Thomas Coote, from New Orleans, states that
eighteen American pirates under sentence of death, in the jail of that
city, have many friends, much intent upon effecting a rescue, by forcing
the prison, which is strongly guarded by the military. Every night
almost, for this purpose, mobs collect around it and set fire to distant
parts of the city, in order to divert the attention of the guards from
the prison. Great alarm exists on the subject, and it is feared, {424}
that on the day of execution, much blood will be spilt.
One hundred sail of slave-ships, full of slaves, appeared in sight, one
day, during this spring, off the coast of Africa. Several of them were
fast sailing vessels, built, owned, and manned by the free citizens of
free America. Some were chased and taken by the British and American
navy. This trade is now considered to be more extensive than ever.
_30th._--Visited Mr. Dunn, who states that the small red squirrel, of
this state, is seen to seize and castrate, in a moment, the large grey
squirrel, which greatly fears and always flies at the sight of the
former.
Are those English people who are now in America happier than they were
in England? I will take upon me to pronounce, that in the aggregate,
they are not. Happiness and misery are not mere localities, for as God
is the father of all, the earth is his and the fulness thereof; his
frowns or smiles are not bounded by geographical lines and latitudes;
the whole human family are under his wise economy. God's management is
always right. He can blast prosperity and bless disappointment, so as to
keep it from disappointing; thus bringing good out of evil, light out of
darkness, blessings out of curses, and curses out of blessings.
Blessings unblessed are curses in disguise, and adversity blessed is a
blessing. We need his blessing {425} upon every thing, even on his
blessings. I am sometimes disposed to think that the blessings of
American liberty are unblessed.
Mr. Elliott deems universal suffrage, as it exists in America, an
universal evil, because the worst and meanest of mankind, who are the
most numerous every where, are enabled to exert an overwhelming
influence over the good and the honourable. Every man here is a segment
of the government. Mean and evil men seek to represent their like. A
good man cannot descend to the mean mode of popularity; he cannot bribe
with whiskey; he cannot promise what is evil to perform; and therefore
but few good men are in the government. Antipathy to Englishmen, and
whatever they suggest, is general and nearly national.
For the following very interesting, original, and last letter of a
distinguished, yet unfortunate artist, I am indebted to an old
philosophical friend, whose well-judged opinions of and extensive
acquaintance with men and things, make his sentiments precious and
almost oracular. Let him here receive my thanks for the many pleasant
hours which I spent in his company, and for the rich materials of
thinking gathered from him.
_Washington, September 5th, 1820._
Dear Sir,
I embrace the opportunity of writing to you by the favour of Mrs.
Orris. I enclose a letter received {426} from the celebrated
_Francis Guy_, landscape painter, who lately died at New York. He
was at the head of his profession in this country, and perhaps in
the world. He was born near Keswick, in Cumberland, England. I knew
him well, and esteemed him highly, as well for his virtues as his
talents. In this letter, (which I believe was the last he wrote, it
being dated only a few days before his death) you will know the
opinion of many artists, who have left their country to seek for
food and fame in this, and see how they are rewarded for the
exercise of their talents in this great republic of North America.
_He (Guy) told me that he had not received 50 cents per day for his
labours!_ You are welcome to any use of this letter.
Buildings seem to rise very fast, notwithstanding the badness of
the times, as they are termed.
Please to favour me with a letter as soon as convenient. I am in
daily expectation of the nuts, &c. The ground has been ploughed
some weeks for their reception. I am in good health, but my
mother, my wife, my brother, his wife, and oldest child are all
very sick.
Please accept my best wishes for your welfare. The club also wish
to be remembered to you.
Your Old Friend.
To Mr. Faux.
{427} _Brooklyn, Long Island_,
_June 29th, 1820._
My Dear Friend,
I received yours, with its inclosures, in due time, and it would be
a difficult thing for me to describe the pleasure I feel at seeing
such a proof of your continued friendship. There is, indeed, a
something in a real upright and downright honest John Bull, that
cannot be found in the sly, say-nothing, smiling, deep speculating,
money-hunting Jonathans of this
all-men-are-born-equally-free-and-independent, negro-driving,
cow-skin republic.
It is surely wrong to be content with nothing, because not blessed
with all. We see bad effects, we hate them, and we grumble, but ten
to one it is because we are unacquainted with the cause from whence
they spring; but there is one self-evident, hell-born cause of
endless ills in this land, which, for want of a better name, we
will call avarice. From Maine to Georgia, on all occasions, the
general question is, How much shall I get by it? What will it fetch
me? Pray what benefit will that be to me? &c. &c. From this,
man-stealing, mail robberies, piracy, murders, thefts, swindling,
forgeries, lying, cheating, slavery, whips, gags, chains, and all
the black catalogue of monstrous ills proceed. Indeed, that angel
who is described by Milton as being more fond of admiring Heaven's
golden pavement, than any thing glorious aloft, is the ruling god
of this nation; and in imitation {428} of him, they are for ever
chasing dollars, walking half bent under the accursed dominion of
selfish views. But death, the mighty hunter, will catch them all,
and then, in company with their god Belial, they will enjoy the
name, title, and privilege of _fools_. There is a national church
liturgy in England, and if ever there should be one adopted here,
the following I think ought to form a part of it.
Money, money, is all our cry,
Money, the total sum!
Give us money or else we die;
O let thy money come!
But I am rambling from the Capitol. Your son has drawn it very
well, but I wish he had drawn it on a larger scale, that the order
of columns and windows might have been more distinct. However, it
is the wrong side of the building; it is the east front and north
end that I must paint, looking down towards George-town, and the
place I sketched the view from was just above your house; therefore
I must paint the east front and north end. This, like a fool, I
forgot to inform you of; but if both fronts are to be alike, then
what you have sent will do; if not, then I will thank both you and
him to send me another drawing, at least so far as the centre of
the east front differs from that of the west.
Since I wrote the above, Mr. King, the painter, has been in this
place, and informs us that both {429} fronts of the capitol will be
the same; therefore, if that be so, what you have sent will answer;
and when I come to your place in the fall, I will reward your son
for his drawing, or if he choose to make a charge, I will send the
money by the post, whatever it may be.
Give my dutiful respects to Dr. Thornton, and tell him that I wish
he could see the picture of Washington city when it is finished--I
think it will be a grand sight. I am now painting a large view of
Chichester, in England, for Governor Clinton; in which his
likeness, with those of Judge Miller and Doctor Mitchel, are to be
painted on the fore-ground. I wish the doctor could see this
paradise scenery also. You talk of coming to York; I wonder if ever
I shall have the pleasure of seeing you here. In your last, you ask
if I have any communications to send. Perhaps I may have some to
send concerning myself, for be assured that if we do not now
condescend to go out of our old beaten track, we must fall through
thick and thin. When that should be, it would be no sin to do one
of the worst things in the world, that is, turn one's own
trumpeter.
God prosper you in all your good ways, keep you from all bad ones,
and may you live contented, and die happy!
FRANCIS GUY.
Thus you see I have written a letter, and on one {430} account or
another delayed sending it until there is need to write another, to
make an apology for the neglect. Indeed, my good wife has been very
unwell, and my concern for her made me forget every thing else.
This I know you will say is a good and weighty excuse.
F. G.
_June 10th._--News of firing the City of New Orleans, in order to effect
a rescue of the pirates, reached this city this day. We hear, also, of
the Choctaw Indians fighting, 150 opposed to 150, to avenge the death of
an old woman, killed for a witch. They fought until both sides, with the
exception of ten or twelve, were all killed.[151]
A man was taken and nearly killed, last week, disguised as the devil, in
the act of extorting 150 dollars from a farmer. He was dressed, and spit
fire and brimstone, like a proper devil. He is now in prison. A Yankee
traveller, lodging for the night, struck this felonious devil to the
ground with a club, at the second visit to receive dollars, instead of
paper, as at first offered by the farmer for the ransom of his body and
soul.
_12th._--I met again Mr. Perry from Carlisle, Pennsylvania. He states
that the land and farms there are the best in America; the average of
wheat being about eighteen bushels an acre. The best land is to be
bought occasionally at fifty dollars an acre, with improvements which
have cost all the money; so that the land is given. {431} Here, he says,
an English farmer may, as a farmer, find much animal comfort, but no
good society; the mass of the farmers and people being vile, dishonest,
and without any good principles whatever. All try to rob and wrong you,
and each other, and will do it if you associate, or deal in any way with
them; and they will do it without any shame, being shameless. An honest
man, though rich, must be soon ruined, if he puts confidence in them.
"All are tarred with the same brush." The farmers all work. One, worth
ten or twelve thousand dollars, brought in to Mr. Perry a waggon load of
hay, which he warranted was a ton, though it was only sixteen cwt. Out
of a farm of good land, consisting of 500 acres, a farmer does not find
above 300 dollars a-year for the purchase of such necessaries as the
family need from the store. No money is, therefore, to be made by
farming, and the poor live in want all winter, at which time their
labour is to be had for victuals only, and now for 25 cents a-day. From
sober calculation, he finds that four per cent. is the most that can be
obtained from capital employed in agriculture, though six per cent, is
the legal interest. He would, a thousand times, rather give five or six
guineas an acre rent, for land at Feversham in Kent, than have it here
rent-free; for, after paying this heavy rent and taxes and labour, he
should have a good living profit in England, where the climate is good,
but here, one year {432} wears you out more that seven in England.
Grasshoppers too, here, are a plague, destroying every thing, in the
pestilential months of August and September. There is no money; all is
done by barter.
He would recommend me and others to stick by England while we can live
in it, for he is sure, that if people in England would attend to their
duties, and condescend to the meannesses and drudgeries every where
practised here, they must live, and live better at home than ever they
can here. And besides, though things are bad, there is a hope of better
times. Here, there is no hope; things will be worse; for, with such an
unprincipled, vile race of people, how is it possible that liberty and
happiness can be secure? They know nothing of the nature of liberty, nor
want to know. Law, justice, equity, liberty, are things unknown amongst
them. In England, there is a good sound core, and seed that must always
vegetate; here, all is rottenness. Mr. Perry believes, that grazing
cattle in Pennsylvania, would pay much better than cultivating.
_18th._--I re-visited Dr. Dawes's farm, which being in a state of
complete exhaustion, is unable to produce again even the seed of any
thing sown; the rye not affording what is commonly scattered for
gleaners in England, while the peas, tares, and lentils rise not a foot
high. This land can only be restored to fruitfulness by rest, clover,
plaster, {433} and manure, and plenty of cattle and sheep to depasture
and manure it.
_19th._--This being a beautiful morning, the Doctor ordered out his
curricle, and we drove to the seat and plantation of the Right
Honourable T. Law, accompanied by Mr. Joel Simpson. I having been
introduced to Mr. Law, was appointed spokesman, and stood rapping at the
hall of entrance ten minutes before I was heard. At last came a naked,
dirty-legged, bare-footed little girl, to say that Mr. Law was not at
home, nor likely to be before night. Soon after, came her father, the
overseer, who "regretted that Mr. Law was absent at an agricultural
dinner, as he was happy to see all callers." He, at my request, shewed
us the garden, the farm, and the stock. The farm, about 250 acres, is
beautifully situated on high hills, two miles from the Potowmac, but so
stony and unfruitful, that its cultivation is a serious expense, rather
than a benefit, it being unable to maintain itself. The garden and
orchard, a few acres, seem equally poor; small quantities of its produce
are, however, sent from it occasionally to market. At the bottom of it
is a spa, or mineral spring, in which the proprietor bathes. The horses
are all poor and fleshless, but the cattle and cows, about twelve in
number, fat. A cow and a bull of the Yorkshire breed, from England,
dislike (says the man) this climate. {434} The cow gives but little
milk, and pines for the sweet, green pastures of her dear native land.
The English labourers, sent over to this farm, are all gone, being
drunken and worthless, and withal, so uncivil and conceited, that Mr.
Law, who likes men to talk freely with him, could scarcely get a civil
answer from any of them. We were at last conducted into the house, and
introduced to a pint of whiskey. We saw no house-servants, but heard
one, a female slave recently bought, the only slave Mr. Law owns. He
lives in great simplicity. The house is better than the best American
farm-houses; still, it is not a mansion, but rather something between
both. In the centre and front, is a large oblong room, the largest in
the house, and resembling a hall of entrance, at each end of which is a
smaller room for the winter, and on the other side, being a double
house, are three small summer rooms, and chambers over the whole. The
road through the farm up to the house is serpentine, and planted with
dying shrubs. It is rough, stony, and difficult of ascent, and the
entrance-gate (where might stand a porter's lodge) is meaner than a
hog-pen-gate. In this retreat dined the President and 200 gentlemen last
week. The society admitted here is select, and the principal attraction
to it is Mr. Law, who is kind, agreeable, and benevolent to all. In his
personal appearance, he is small, lean, {435} withered, and rustic. His
nose, however, is noble, like Lord Ellenborough's, but his mind is
perhaps nobler than that of any of the family, although he lives in
greater simplicity than a country squire of England.
_21st._--An old Scotsman, a perfect stranger, this morning
conscientiously brought back cloth to Mr. ----'s store, to be
re-measured, the same containing, he found, several yards more than he
had paid for, or expected to find. A mistake had occurred in measuring.
An American lady of respectability, also of this city, was standing by,
and, in the greatest astonishment, exclaimed: "What! bring it back
because there is too much measure? Well, who ever heard the like? I
would not have done so, I'll warrant ye." "O, my dear madam," said he,
"I could not, would not, have it without paying for it; it is not mine."
The proprietor of the store observed, very significantly, looking her
ladyship in the face, "Madam, I know of only one rule, and that is, to
do unto others as you would that they should do unto you." She blushed,
and said no more. This shameless, unprincipled, selfishness is very
universal. It is customary, with this people, never to point out
defects in goods, or errors in accounts, when such defects and errors
exist in their favour. The qualities, honesty and dishonesty, as
exemplified in these two characters, seemed as if they were natural.
{436} _23rd._--The mayor of this city, Samuel N. Smallwood, Esq. now
mayor for the second time, came here, twenty years ago, a pennyless
mechanic, but being industrious, grew with the growth, and strengthened
with the strength, of this infant metropolis. His mother was a yellow
woman, and his origin is still distinguishable in his curled hair, which
he keeps close shorn. This, further south, would have been a sin never
to be forgiven. He is a man of talent, and lives much respected.
This day I passed a pleasant farm on the eastern branch of the Potowmac,
half of it bottom land, and running a mile and a half along the shore,
with a good house and offices, orchards, and large gardens. The hills
are poor, and covered with woods, amongst which cattle and pigs graze,
and breed, and fatten. It contains 667 acres, to be bought at sixty
dollars an acre, works twenty, and might work thirty negroes, worth
9,000 dollars. It requires an additional capital of 6,000 or 7,000
dollars, for cultivating. Although much of this pleasant plantation is
in wood, yet it is said to produce annually,
Dollars
{437} Of Tobacco, 3,000
Corn and grain, 3,000
Garden-stuff, 3,000
Cattle and pigs, bred and fed, 2,000
Rent of fishery, 500
Butter, 1,000
------
12,500
------
If the fishery were fished by the owner,
it would make additional 1,000
------
13,500
------
Thus is a capital of 55,000 dollars employed, netting twelve per cent.,
but the authority relied upon, in thus stating the case, is not the
best.
The Patriot pilot-boat, last war, sailed from New York to Charleston
city, for the Governor of South Carolina's Lady, Mrs. Allstone, Mr.
Burr's daughter,[152] then at Charleston, who, with Mr. Green, her
brother-in-law, and servant, plate and specie, sailed from Charleston.
They were heard of no more, until last month, when one of the pirates,
under sentence of death at New Orleans, confessed that he and others, of
the crew of the Patriot, rose upon the captain and the passengers,
confined them below, scuttled the vessel, and abandoned her, taking to
the boat, in which, with all the money and plate they could find, they
{438} landed on the coast of North Carolina, while the vessel, and all
it contained, sunk to rise no more.
_30th._--I re-visited the seat of Mr. Law, in company with Mr. Elliott,
and the Rev. J. Wright. Mr. Law was dining out, three miles from home. I
saw him not, but kept possession of the house three hours.
Mr. Law told a friend of mine that he brought 100,000 guineas in gold,
but could not now raise, by any means, at a short notice, 1,000_l._ City
lots and land allured him almost to ruin. Land seems a substance, but is
yet only a shadow in many neighbourhoods.
_A common hot day at Washington._--The wind southerly, like the breath
of an oven; the thermometer vacillating between 90 and 100; the sky blue
and cloudless; the sun shedding a blazing light; the face of the land,
and every thing upon it, save trees, withered, dusty, baked, and
continually heated, insomuch that water would almost hiss on it; the
atmosphere swarming with noxious insects, flies, bugs, mosquitoes, and
grasshoppers, and withal so drying, that all animal and vegetable life
is exposed to a continual process of exhaustion. The breezes, if any,
are perfumed by nuisances of all sorts, emptied into the streets,
rotting carcases, and the exhalations of dismal swamps, made vocal and
alive with toads, lizards, and bellowing bull-frogs. Few people are
stirring, except negroes; all faces, save those {439} of blacks, pale,
languid, and lengthened with lassitude, expressive of any thing but ease
and happiness. Now and then an emigrant or two fall dead at the cold
spring, or fountain; others are lying on the floor, flat on their backs;
all, whether idle or employed, are comfortless, being in an everlasting
steam-bath, and feeling offensive to themselves and others. At table,
pleased with nothing, because both vegetable and animal food is
generally withered, toughened, and tainted; the beverage, tea or coffee,
contains dead flies; the beds and bed-rooms, at night, present a
smothering unaltering warmth, the walls being thoroughly heated, and
being withinside like the outside of an oven in continual use. Hard is
the lot of him who bears the heat and burthen of this day, and pitiable
the fate of the poor emigrant sighing in vain for comforts, cool
breezes, wholesome diet, and the old friends of his native land. At
midnight, the lightning-bugs and bull-frogs become luminous and
melodious. The flies seem an Egyptian plague, and get mortised into the
oily butter, which holds them like birdlime.
Having requested some communication on the subject of farming, and other
matters, in Pennsylvania, from a friend, possessing great experience, I
was favoured with the following heads, which contain much information
in a condensed form.
{440} _1st. Pennsylvania._--The land is of the first quality, and the
best farming in the United States is found here. The climate is of a
medium temperature, but the extremes meet as in the other states.
_2nd. Crops._--The average produce is sixteen bushels, per acre, of
wheat; other grain in proportion; but the crops are very subject to the
Hessian fly and mildew.
_3rd. Fruit._--As in the other states, it is inferior to that of Europe,
and no dependence is to be placed on crops.
_4th. Garden._--One acre of land in England, produces more vegetables
than five acres in the United States, taking the year throughout. N.B.
This matter has been most grossly misrepresented.
_5th. Grazing Land._--During five months in the year, there is no
pasture for cattle.
_6th. Price of Land._--Varies from 50 to 100 dollars with improvements,
that is, with a good house and barn.
_7th. Timber._--Sufficient exists at present; but should the population
increase rapidly, it will become a scarce article.
_8th. Game._--Scarce; which is generally the case through the States. No
country in the world is worse supplied with game, and in a few years the
game will be entirely annihilated, owing to the extreme inclemency of
the winters, and there being no cover for them in the woods.
{441} _9th. Fish._--Taking the States through, the supply of this
article is trifling.
_10th. Farmers._--The generality of this class are Germans of the lowest
grade; industrious, but nothing further, and forming no society for an
English yeoman. The rest of the population is composed of descendants
of the old settlers and of low people of Irish origin.
_11th. Residence._--An emigrant requires at the least twelve months.
N.B. The United States teem with jobbing lawyers, land speculators, and
swindlers.
_12th. Grazing and stall-feeding cattle for market._--This line might be
followed to advantage with a capital of 4,000 dollars, and with what is
of more consequence, the knowledge of dealing or trafficking, for
without such knowledge the noble would soon be reduced to nine-pence. A
twelve months' residence is, therefore, indispensably necessary, for
without being fully initiated in the diabolical arts of _lying out_,
_swearing out_, _swindling out_, and _thieving out_, ruin is inevitable.
_13th. Society._--There is none for an Englishman of the old school, who
would scorn to tell a lie, or see his fellow man in want.
_14th. Happiness._--Must be found in your own family; the fruits of your
farm will supply every want, and whilst the government of the United
States continues as at present, you will be secured in that happiness.
{442} _15th._--One matter I had almost forgot, which I must not omit to
mention, as you most likely will be asked questions on the subject by
many of that most useful and invaluable class, English husbandmen.
_1st. Wages._--The highest wages given at this time for _harvest_ are,
2_s._ 3_d._ per day, English money, and found in provision and bad
whiskey.
_2nd. Working hours._--From sunrise to sunset, full sixteen hours.
_3d. How long does the harvest last?_--About three weeks.
_4th. Is it warm in harvest time?_--Excessively so. The thermometer
ranges from 86 to 120. It is impossible to have a just idea of it
without actual experience. And, what is of more consequence, an English
husbandman would be more _debilitated_ in _three years_ in the United
States, than in _sixteen years_ in England.
_5th. How long in the year can labour be procured?_--About six months.
_6th. Are wages paid regularly?_--Very rarely. Mostly defrauded.
_7th. Then who are the persons that can do?_--A man with a family of
hard-working children, possessing 300_l._ sterling, and who should
reside twelve months in the States before he purchases land. And it is
greatly to be feared that both the emigrant and his family must lay in
all the low cunning, and [l]earn to defraud and cheat, as practised
{443} here, and entirely forget old English principles and society, or
else ruin and misery will be his portion.
_8th. Mechanics._--Any part of the world before the United States, for,
whatever they may earn, they will be sure to be defrauded out of half.
_9th. Wages._--Not so much as in England, taking the year through.
_July 6th._--Visited the house of the President, a good, substantial,
pleasant abode, but neither so elegant, superb, nor costly as the seats
of our nobility. I saw nothing about it remarkable; no pictures, save
Washington's; no curiosities, no painted ceilings. The walls are covered
with French paper, and the rooms are furnished with French furniture.
Its front looks over the Potowmac and Alexandria, down to Mount Vernon,
through a vast extent of Southern Virginian scenery. A favourite English
butler shewed us all, and regaled us with good biscuit, brandy, and
sherry.
_7th._--This morning the Hon. Thomas Law, accompanied by Mr. Elliott,
made me a call in return for mine. He very politely regretted his
absence when I called, and invited me to come and spend a day or two
with him at his farm, for the purpose of concluding the conversation now
commenced in the following words.
_Mr. Law._--"You, Mr. F., saw my farm and garden. They are poor, but I
will improve the gravelly hills by carting earth on to them from the
{444} valleys. The English labourers sent to me by Mr. Curwen, I have
dismissed. They could do nothing but plough; they were stupid,
conceited, uncivil, and latterly drunken; whiskey, and the company they
met, seduced them. When I began farming I knew not wheat from rye, or
rye from barley; but I well know what are the benefits of farming."
"You, Sir, pursue it only for your pleasure?" "No, Sir, I want profit."
"In the present distressed state of agriculture little profit is to be
had." "Truly so; but a paper circulation is wanted. Mr. Crawford fully
agreed with me on this point, but disingenuously seceded from it in his
report, on which account I have addressed several pointed letters to
him, which I will send you as well as my address to the agricultural
society of Prince George's county."
"On my return home shall I advise and recommend my countrymen to
emigrate here?" "Why, Sir, I cannot answer that question. I have never
recommended emigration, nor caused any to quit their country; every
thing is strange and unsuitable to English farmers and labourers; he can
cultivate with success only by slaves." "Have you, Mr. Law, no regrets
at having spent so much of your time in this country?" "No, Sir, none
whatever." "What, Sir, none at the loss of that society which you must
have had in common with your family in England?" Here Mr. Law hesitated
a little as if at a loss for an answer. "Why, {445} Sir, I once with
Lord Cornwallis governed India. I returned and saw my acquaintance
sliding into commerce, brewers, manufacturers, and merchants, to be
cheated; such a course had no attractions for me, and I was opposed to
the French war and other government measures. I therefore determined on
visiting and ultimately on living in this country, where I have spent my
time much to my satisfaction, never being at a loss for amusement. I
write and read, and talk and visit, on the most familiar and friendly
terms with my neighbours, with whom I frequently stay all night; and
whenever I please, I can without ceremony go and talk frequently and
freely with the President, Mr. Crawford, Calhoun, and all the heads of
the government, and therefore I have the best society the land affords."
"But, Sir, there are the honours and emoluments of England which _must_
have been yours." "My wants were then, and have always been, very few. I
believe I have always been happier than any of my brothers. As I never
knew how to say 'My lord' to any man, I did not seek or want honours or
emoluments. I saw my family and friends dependant on the funds which are
likely some day to beggar them and many others; a situation from which I
fled." "What, Mr. Law, is likely to remedy the diseases of England?"
"Sir! England is over-peopled. It is not wholly the fault of the
government. A famine will be the remedy." "Could not the surplus
population {446} be transported to the colonies?" "No, Sir. A famine is
the only remedy." "But, Sir, is not a famine calculated to plunge the
country into a dreadful political convulsion and revolution?" "It is,
Sir, but the government is not blameable."
"Morally considered, or with respect to morals, do you not think the
population of this country inferior to that of England?" "The people in
the mass are here more intelligent. You now see them at the worst time.
You see them _generally_ acting unworthily and meanly, but their poverty
and not their will consents. As to slaves, they steal." "And they have a
right to steal," said a third person. I answered, "They, to be sure,
have been robbed on a broad scale." "Why, Sir, the friends of slavery
insist on it that slavery is essential to the existence of liberty. To
what conclusions will they not come?"
"Is there, Mr. Law, no aristocratical feeling in this country?" "Yes,
Sir, amongst the black population." "You mean, Sir, amongst the masters
of blacks?" "Yes, Sir. You, Sir, have visited Mr. Birkbeck?" "I have."
"Is he not a very pleasant, intelligent man?" "He is highly so." "What
is he doing?" "Fast spending dollars." "Had he raised any produce?"
"None." "Why?" "He had been, he said, occupied in settling his
neighbours, who together with himself have been supplied with provisions
from Harmony at 100 per cent, above their value; but cheaper, they have
{447} said, than they could have then and there raised them." "I, Sir,
do not approve of going into the wilderness away from market and
society, while land is to be had with both. What is Harmony?" "It is a
most flourishing settlement, and indeed the only flourishing one I saw
in the wilderness. What think you, Mr. Law, of the climate?" "Why, Sir,
as Lloyd says,
"With things at once so hot and cold,
I can no friendship hold."
Mr. Law talks in an oratorical manner, and with an energy of action
which makes him appear much in earnest. He is full to overflowing, and
quite inexhaustible. "His worth," says Mr. Elliott, "is not one-tenth of
it known, but is thrown away upon this country."
"It is said, Sir, that the population of this country is systematically
unprincipled, and almost without virtue." "That, Sir, is not true. In
the cities, since the commercial distress, the people seem dishonest.
The commercial demand from England, and the withdrawing a paper capital
by this government, have driven the people to desperation. They are
unjustly done by. They were once esteemed good customers. A circulating
medium only is wanted to heal the breach. In the country the people are
anxious to meet their engagements." "Do you, Sir, think that no remedy
but famine remains for England?" "No, Sir! no other." "Then the sooner
it comes the better." "But, Sir, (said he) {448} such confusion, and
horror, and calamity, will characterize the catastrophe as the world has
not seen." "Do you think it will exceed the French revolution? Will the
people of England be more bloody and heartless in such a struggle than
the French?" "The desperation of their situation will make them so.
Consider, Sir, the rage, anguish, and collision of so many starving
millions, screwed up into a space not larger than our state of Virginia.
Here, Sir, we have plenty, and whether sleeping or waking are safe in
our houses, and liberty and prosperity are secure. You, I find, are
deputed to collect information. Dine with me on Monday, and I will get
my sons out to meet you."
Mr. Law finding that I wished a protection or special passport from the
British minister, Mr. Antrobus, went and applied for it, but did not
succeed, it should seem, because I was acquainted with ---- on the black
books of the government. "Mr. C.," said Mr. Law, "is a very intelligent
man, but I find he carried things with a high, offensive hand in
England. He, I believe, Sir, wrote the Watchman and alarmed the church
and the Bishop of Ely."
Mr. Law seems not to like the radicals. "When," says he, "I came to this
country from India, it seemed at first like going down to the grave. I
seemed buried. Tell my family that I drink daily rye-coffee and
whiskey."
{449} Recipe for making rye-coffee, equal to the West Indian, after Mr.
Law's fashion. Swell the rye in warm water before you roast it.
_8th._--I received the following letter from Mr. Law.
_Saturday, 8th July, 1820._
Sir,
I wish you, if you see Mr. Elliott of the Patent-office, to desire
him to come and dine on Monday. If you can visit me early, I will
shew you the neighbourhood, and in conversation you may obtain
whatever opinions I have formed from experience respecting this
country. It is most desirable that correct information should be
given to those who are necessitated to seek an asylum here.
An European ought not to travel far into the interior, as he must
sacrifice every comfort during life. Want of society, want of
hands, want of a market, want of medical aid; in short, almost
every want is experienced for many years; discontent soon destroys
the harmony of associates, and former attachments to those left
behind have double power to excite regrets.
The Americans are a migrating race, and quit their farms to seek
rich back lands; but more of this when I have the pleasure to see
you.
Yours most obediently,
T. LAW.
_Sunday, 9th._--By appointment, I breakfasted with Major Young, 45 years
from Ireland, and {450} from the first an enthusiast in the cause of
America, throughout the revolution up to this time, having been the
companion in arms of General Washington, and appointed to the honour of
delivering Lord Cornwallis his discharge from his parole of honour. His
lordship graciously received it from the Major at his house in London,
much pleased that he was not compelled to return to America to discharge
his parole, having been exchanged for Mr. Laurens in the Tower. "Major,"
said his lordship, "I feel obliged to you and others, and will hold
myself under obligation to serve you at any time." The Major gave him an
opportunity, and was served. Mr. Laurens, while in the tower, was
consulted by a friend of Lord Hillsborough, the minister, on this
question: "What, Mr. Laurens, would you, as a friend to America, advise
England to do at the present juncture." "Why, Sir, the experience of
ages proves that an ounce of honey is worth a ton of vinegar." His
lordship on hearing this, in great rage rejoined, "America has had too
much honey; she shall have more vinegar."
Mr. John Law, during the attack on Washington, served in the United
States' army as a sergeant; but after the British got possession, he
laid aside his uniform, and telling the British officers that he was the
nephew of Lord Ellenborough, invited them to his house, where they spent
a joyful evening together.
{451} _10th._--By Mr. Elliott, I was introduced to Major Roberts, at the
public department of engineers.[153] I was accompanied by Mr. John and
Mr. Edmund Law, two natives of Asia, to the seat of their father to
dinner, where we met Mr. Carter, Mr. Elliott, Colonel Heb, and his
friend, a Cantab. Our dinner consisted of lamb, ham and chicken, and
blackberry pie, with claret, brandy, and whiskey, the latter 15 years
old. Here was all ease and no ceremony. Every guest seemed as free as if
at home, and eat, drank, and talked as he pleased. As this dinner was on
my account, Mr. Law placed me on his right hand as his guest. The two
Asiatic sons of Mr. Law seem generous, kind-hearted, and most
intelligent young gentlemen, free from all aristocratic pride.
Mr. John Law, during our ride to dinner, observed that his father's
objection to slavery was rooted in mere prejudice, because, though he
might buy slaves, he could emancipate them when he pleased. I told Mr.
Law, their father, what they said of this prejudice. "Aye," said he,
"call it what they please, I am acting from a good and proper motive.
Wherever there are blacks, the white population is seen to decrease. The
blacks will free themselves in the south; their resistance and
insurrection will be horrid and irresistible; the free states will never
stir an inch to oppose the blacks or to assist the planters, who have no
feelings in common with the farmers and {452} people of free states. The
former oppose domestic manufactures, because they think England can give
them more for produce than their countrymen, and therefore they are
willing that their countrymen should be drained of money for the support
of British manufactures."
Free blacks, in all the above states, are an especial nuisance, because
they are deemed the cause of insurrection amongst slaves, and act as
brokers to them, or receivers of whatever the slaves steal.
Birkbeck and Flower became the theme of the evening. Mr. Law, and all
present, regretted that they did not settle in this, or some populous
neighbourhood, where they might have lived as the most distinguished
citizens, and at a much less cost than now. They might have visited and
been visited by the President, and all the heads of departments; had a
town and country house, plenty of land, increasing in value, and good
markets; plenty of comforts of all kinds; farms, houses, orchards,
gardens, and every convenience formed to their hands, at less than the
cost of improvements, so that the land is a gift into the bargain. What
madness to go into the wilderness! Their land is not advanced in value
by their mere residence on it. They might have invested money, on land,
in the best western neighbourhoods, and, without sacrificing themselves,
their posterity would have reaped the benefit, which must be slow, but
which is sure to come with population and population only. {453} They
thought that land must increase in value in the west, forgetting that
there was an infinite supply at the same price; and, besides, how could
they be sure that settlers would follow and give an advance. It was
madness so to spend this short life. They ought to have known that
working Yankee families, who do all the labour themselves, are the only
proper pioneers. Gentlemen-farmers should not remove into the west,
until they can live and do better there than here. At any rate it is
time enough to go when they can be the third or fourth buyers of farms;
when they can have the improvements at less than the cost, and the land
nearly into the bargain. Society and visiting, so indispensable to such
intelligent Englishmen, they might here have cheaply. "I entertained
(continued Mr. Law) the President and heads of departments, and 100
friends besides, to dinner, at this house, on such a dinner, as we have
had to-day, and a little light wine, and the cost of all was only 40
dollars. My good neighbours, it is true, sent me hams and rounds of
beef, ready cooked, because they thought I should find it difficult to
cook for so many. If I were in England, I must have my Lord ----, and
others of the same rank; all must be splendid, costly, and pompous; but
all this is not the hospitality which I like and find here. Here we go
and come, as, and when we please; no previous notice is necessary; {454}
we give and take freely of such things as we have, and no one is
inconvenienced. In England a house is alarmed by the arrival of an
unexpected visitor. As neighbours and visitors we are all equal, and
share good things in common."
We walked through the large garden, where Mr. Law boasted that he should
have 2,000 celery plants for market at 12-1/2 cents each. All farmers
send their garden produce three times a week to market. "What I send
(says Mr. Law) pays the expense of the gardener, and puts 100 dollars
into my pocket, exclusive of my butter, which furnishes me with
butcher's meat, &c. My farm, at present, does not, but it will, more
than support my establishment."
He has two women, one white, one black, two or three negro children, and
five or six labourers hired at from eight dollars to twelve dollars per
month, most of whom are to leave in winter.
At eight o'clock the company departed, except myself. Mr. Law pressed me
to stay and spend a day or two longer, so that we might visit Colonel
Heb next day, and see the neighbourhood.
We were seated together alone, on the lawn, in the cool of the evening,
until ten o'clock, when Mr. Law, with a light in his hand, kindly
conducted me to my bed-room. During these two hours we talked freely;
first, on the state of England, which, he says, must fall in a few
years. "With {455} such a debt, and so many drones, and having all the
world rivalling and excluding British manufactures, and with such a
superabundant population, it is impossible that she can long exist in
her present condition. A famine must certainly sweep away superfluous
millions. It will be brought about, first, by a scarce year, and
secondly, by the want of specie to pay for foreign grain; for specie
only will do, when manufactures shall not be wanted in exchange for
grain. Then the British people, instead of lying down and dying
willingly like the Hindoos, a scene which I witnessed, will rise with an
irresistible fury, sweeping all authorities before them." "After such a
storm, will they dispense with monarchy, &c.?" "No, Sir, I think not.
King, lords, and commons, seem acceptable to the people. The church and
the debt only will be annihilated. My friends and others in the funds
see that this catastrophe is coming. They are therefore unhappy. I see
they are eaten up by anxiety; I am happier than any of them. Many of the
rich, and several of my friends and family, live on the European
continent, to spend their money in ease and peace. They are all unhappy
in their prospects. It is true that I have been unsuccessful in my
speculations here, but my wants are few. I was advised by General
Washington to invest my money in and about this city, which every one
then deemed a good speculation, and it would have been so but for the
stupidity and blundering {456} ignorance of this government, which by
diminishing the currency, has reduced our estates 50 or 60 per cent.
and rendered all unsaleable. There is no money for use. It is impossible
that a people can flourish without a circulating medium; a floating
capital, which creates a fixed capital. This government, however, will
see the need of it and resort to it; for, if the capital once in
circulation had remained so, the public lands would have doubled their
present value, and the industrious have flourished instead of sinking
into ruin. The poor and industrious are the only proper objects of the
care and protection of government." "You knew Paley. What think you of
his philosophy, &c.?" "I knew him well; he was a good man, but his
philosophy is false. Utility is made its basis; but impulse and feeling
furnish the best moral guide. Every feeling in man points him to
goodness." "But, Sir," said I, "is not his philosophy in accordance with
Christianity?" "Perhaps it is." I rejoined that I could not help
revering it, and that after reading it I thought myself both wiser and
better. "That may be." "You knew and esteemed Sir Wm. Jones in India.
Was he not a Christian?" "Why sir, Lord Teignmouth has endeavoured to
make him appear so; but he was a free thinker, and unusually vain.
Instead of studying his duties and introducing good laws, he was
ambitious of learning all languages, and of being a finished antiquarian
and poet. He fell a victim to his intense {457} application. He would
never travel, except by night; the sun must not see him. He once
travelled through my district by night, and I accompanied him. At sunset
he would inquire: 'Is my enemy down?' If answered, 'Yes,' he would then
start."
"Did you see M. Volney,[154] during his tour in this country?" "I did;
he came, introduced to me by General Washington, and spent some days
with me; he spoke our language well, and was a very wise man."
_11th._--Mr. Law and myself rose about sunrise. I walked, while he was
engaged in writing some materials or arguments for my journal. He writes
with great velocity.
After breakfast we rode to the pleasant farm of Colonel Heb to dine,
where, with his lady and family, we met a young Cantab, and his lady,
who sweetly sung and played for Mr. Law on the piano, with which he
seemed enraptured.
We then viewed the Colonel's estate, consisting of 600 acres, of hill
and dale, 90 of which are meadow irrigated, and which produces 2,000
dollars in hay annually, while the tobacco[155] crop is {458} commonly
worth from 100 to 150 dollars an acre. Here is a marl bank, by which the
Colonel has improved the estate, which, including its first cost,
employs 20,000 dollars, and nets, from 12 to 15 per cent. It is
cultivated by from 12 to 20 negroes, who seem happy and well treated,
singing and working merrily. The Colonel thinks slaves are better off
than free-men. All slave-holders think so, especially those idle men who
keep them merely for hiring out, that they may live entirely by the
labour and breeding of blacks. Free blacks, in a slave state, are most
of them unhappy.
Mr. Law thinks that Colonel Heb saves little or nothing from this
estate, after deducting the expenses of hospitality, education, and
other out-goings. Part of our dessert, at dinner, was strawberries,
which, during the summer, bear fruit continually, each month yielding a
fresh supply. We quitted this hospitable abode at seven, p. m., and, on
reaching home, resumed our conversation till bedtime.
Mr. Law said, that when last in England, he visited his brother, the now
Bishop of Chester, then living on a small benefice, at Kelshall, near
Royston, where all the neighbourhood seemed dissenters. "My brother did
all he could to please them, but they would not come to church. My
brother did not like it, and feared that his congregation would be
reduced to the clerk and his own family. Indeed it seldom was more.
{459} What a nest," said Mr. Law, "is the church for hypocrites. All
churches are evils, especially when they condemn a difference of
opinion, and compel the dissenters therefrom to support the church.
Religion is matter of opinion; all have a right to think freely thereon.
I wonder how my brother got preferment, when I know he was refractory,
and could not submit to the pride and domination of Lord Ellenborough."
"The convulsion in England," says Mr. Law, "will not last long, but it
will be horrid; it will sweep away the drones. I saw my friends spending
their days ingloriously, and descending to the grave, sick of
themselves, and without doing any good to the world.
"My good brother, the Irish Bishop, the most learned of our family, came
from Ireland, purposely to see me. He is now dead. There is no
independence about bishops. They only seek preferment."
Mr. Law repeated to me some satirical lines which he wrote against
the * * * * * * "These lines his lordship feared should be shown. He
made peace with me and gave up to me. His lordship said, 'I must give
up to Tom, or he will expose me to my brother lawyers, and I shall
become their butt.'" These lines represented the * * * * * * as the
perfection of pride, and seeking to be Chancellor, being already one
in insolence.
{460} "You have not, I suppose, at any time, directly or indirectly,
formed a part of this government?" "No, Sir, I would see them at the
d--l first." "Is Mr. President Monroe a man of business?" "Yes, Sir. The
Presidents are all slaves to their duties, scarcely able to breathe
abroad or take air." On passing by the Capitol, I said, "Does this
sumptuous Capitol accord with the plainness of republicanism?" "No, Sir,
but laying stones one upon another rarely injures any nation; and
besides, republics are vain, and public buildings gratify their vanity,
and attach them to the country. Inasmuch (said Mr. Law) as this
government has left unprotected the manufacturers of the country, and
withdrawn the circulating medium from the people generally, it has done
all which an enemy to this or any country could do, or wish to see
done." I asked Mr. Law if it was worth while to visit Mount Vernon. He
said, "Mount Vernon is inviting, but Judge W. knows nothing."
_12th._--In our ride to the city this morning, with a negro behind us,
two gentlemen, Mr. Law's neighbours, overtook us, but being anxious to
get on before us, apologized for leaving us. "Oh! gentlemen!" said
Mr. L., "we do not want you to wait for us. Go, I pray you, to the devil
if you will!"
At parting with Mr. Law this morning, he promised to send me letters of
introduction to his {461} Right Rev. Brother, the Bishop of Chester, and
his distinguished cousin, J. C. Curwen, Esq. M. P. which letters,
together with the following curious observations, purposely written by
him for the use of this journal, were soon after transmitted to me.
_Observations by Mr. Law._--"I have lately perused an address to the
public from the delegation of the United Agricultural Society of
Virginia. If, after repeated perusals, I had been convinced that the
exclusion of such foreign manufactures as we can make ourselves, by
legislative measures, such as high duties or prohibitions, would be
injurious to agriculturists, I should immediately acknowledge my
acquiescence in their reasoning. To oppose the opinions and arguments of
such able men, and of such united members, exposes any one to the
imputation of vanity, and to inevitable ridicule, should his reasoning
prove inconclusive. I have always been an advocate for permitting men to
pursue their interests unobstructed by governmental interference,
according to the suggestions of their reason, and to seek future
salvation according to the dictates of their conscience; and I have
always been convinced that men will employ their capitals and industry
in that business which produces most profit. This is, indeed, an
incontrovertible axiom in political economy; and the only question to
determine, is whether the exclusion of foreign manufactures be {462} not
a salutary exception to the rule. The delegation above mentioned,
accuses the petitioning manufacturers of soliciting a monopoly. A
monopoly, according to my definition of the term, means an exclusive
privilege in favour of an individual, or a certain class of men, in
preference to all others, who are injured thereby. Now to me it appears
that the duties or prohibitions solicited, are solely for the
encouragement of domestic manufactures, and for the discouragement of
foreign ones; nay, in my opinion, it seems a request in the name of all
Americans, to be shielded from foreign monopoly. This observation will
at first surprise you, but after my explanation it will, I trust, have
more verisimilitude in it than you can now imagine. Suppose a sovereign
to say that in a certain county, or department, he would make a donation
of capital for building machinery, &c. to those who would establish a
certain manufacture. Should any other of his subjects attempt rivalship,
with his, or their own funds, could not those, who had their capitals
gratis, undersell the competitor or competitors? Say that the buildings
and machinery cost 100,000 dollars, and that 50,000 dollars, current
capital, were required to pay workmen, and buy materials. The former
aided by the sovereign, if they made ten per cent. on their current
capital, would receive 5,000 dollars per annum, but the latter, if he
obtained only a {463} profit of 5,000 dollars on his 150,000 dollars
laid out, would only receive three and a third per cent. Now the foreign
manufacturer has a capital from his father, which is useless to him, if
not employed. Say his buildings, machinery, and 50,000 dollars current
capital, produce him 15,000 dollars. If he finds foreigners, who
heretofore purchased from him, attempting to set up for themselves, will
it not be good policy in him to reduce his profits two thirds, to ruin
his incipient rivals? Mr. Brougham, in the House of Commons, used the
following language, when speaking of the loss to merchants by an
excessive exportation of manufactures:--_it was worth while to incur a
loss, in order, by the glut, to stifle in the cradle those rising
manufactures in the United States, which the war had forced into
existence, contrary to the natural course of things_.
"Would it not have been humane and judicious in Congress, to have
prevented this ruinous glut, which contributed, with the order to resume
specie payments, to crush our manufactures, merchants, and storekeepers,
and to injure our farmers, &c.? How have foreigners obtained above
30,000,000 of our stocks, but by manufactures? The importation of
manufactures is now much diminished, and manufactures are rising, and
the price of labour falling. Will, however, any prudent man commence
manufacturing till shielded {464} from a glut? Our manufactures, till
then, cannot prosper, and we must remain dependent on foreigners. If all
men relied upon handicraft, as formerly, then the general rule, before
alluded to, would apply, and we might be supplied by home-spun. Were all
patriots, the nation would prefer home-spun, if even a little dearer
than foreign articles of a similar kind; but, as many will prefer their
own to the general interest, the general government must, in respect to
foreign commerce, interfere. The farmer in England obtains from 8_s._ to
10s. a bushel for his wheat; our farmers obtain 4_s._ 6_d._; the
manufactures in England amount to about 100,000,000_l._ sterling; ours,
to less than that amount in dollars.
"The distress occasioned by the sudden reduction of our circulating
medium from 100,000,000 dollars, to 45,000,000 dollars, has reduced all
property far below its intrinsic value; the banks are prosecuting to
recover sums loaned, mortgages are foreclosed, and landholders in debt
are compelled to sell. When an European purchases land in the western
countries, he has to clear and fence, and to build house and barn and
stable, at a great expense. In the old states, as they are termed, the
land is sold at so much per acre, and the house, barn, &c. are thrown
into the bargain. Land, from four to eight miles from this city, may be
averaged at twenty dollars an acre, ready to {465} be occupied.
Navigation is near; the market is near; the newspapers, as essential
almost to an Englishman as his breakfast, may be received three times
a-week by market-carts. Society is good; the expense of a long journey,
and a thousand inconveniences experienced by new settlers, are avoided.
Horses and oxen, I believe, can be bought cheaper in this neighbourhood.
If a man wants to remove his family and to sell, he can find purchasers
more readily than in the western wilds. Sickness almost always occurs on
the first exposure of new land to the sun. State taxes and county levies
fall heavily on settlers in a new country, requiring public buildings,
roads, bridges, &c.; labour is dear, and not always attainable.
A New England man succeeds in a new country, because he is a
jack-of-all-trades; he can make his own log-house, mend his cart, &c.
There is an old adage, that "fools build, and wise men purchase."
Suppose 150 acres, purchased in this neighbourhood, at twenty dollars an
acre, making 3,000 dollars, the fencing, and building, and clearing,
would cost at least that sum. When three or four Englishmen wish to
purchase together, they ought to keep it a secret, and to employ some
American, not in high life, who can be confided in, to sound persons
wanting to sell; for if a stranger offers to buy, it is immediately
reported over all the neighbourhood, and prices are raised, and it
exaggerates the value. Americans are remarkably shrewd. {466}
Englishmen, in general, are credulous and sanguine. All bargains ought
to be legally formal, under signature and seal.
"Question. Is great Britain capable of sustaining its national debt for
any length of time?
"There are operating against the possibility of this,
_1st._--The rivalship of manufactures of other nations, knowledge
and skill not being an exclusive advantage.
_2nd._--The encrease of poor-rates, by a superabundant population,
and reduction of wages.
_3rd._--The augmentation of payments abroad to British residents,
who avoid taxation by removing to foreign countries.
_4th._--The transfer of sums by the timid and enterprizing, who,
foreseeing embarrassments at home, make purchases abroad of stock
and lands. The British funds yield less than five per cent.; the
French and American yield six.
"These four causes, combining against British prosperity, almost
preclude the hope of supporting the immense load of taxes. The army
cannot, with safety, be much diminished, for as discontent increases
with the addition of burthens, the power of the government must be
increased. It is surprising that the "tight little island" prospers as
it does; there cannot be a stronger proof of a good internal management.
"The industrious classes cannot support, in {467} any community, more
than a certain proportion of drones. The important question is whether
the army, navy, state creditors, hierarchy, servants, residents abroad,
tax-gatherers, &c. can be supported by the industrious. The rapid
increase of poor rates, evinces that a nation has arrived at its acme.
"The arrival of monied men in this country, to purchase lands and to
avoid an apprehended convulsion, is ominous of the approaching crisis.
It is painful to forebode misfortune, and an unwelcome task to predict
evil. Could I anticipate improvements similar to those of Arkwright, &c.
to be long exclusively enjoyed, and were there lands still to be
cultivated, to support augmenting population, I could indulge the hope
of liquidating the debt. At present I behold an inverted pyramid,
propped by machinery, which is giving way. Your own journey, your own
inquiries, must make a forcible impression, that present profits are
precarious, and that happiness is alloyed with apprehensions for the
future."
_13th._--During a conversation this day with Dr. Thornton, of the
post-office,[156] he observed that this city, like that of ancient Rome,
was first peopled with thieves and assassins, and that, during his
residence in it, he had found more villains than he had seen in any
other part of the world. When he was a magistrate, such instances of
unblushing villainy and want of principle amongst the people {468} had
come to his view, as he could not suppose existed any where. "There are,
however," said the doctor, "many good men now in it." There is a
disposition generally amongst the citizens to live above their income.
Persons who live as independent gentlemen, often run into debt with
their butchers, &c., to the amount of several hundred dollars, and delay
a year and a half before they attempt to pay, suffering themselves to be
dunned continually, always promising payment, but never being punctual
in performance, and ultimately paying by instalments of five, ten, or
fifteen dollars; a mode of payment from which the meanest man in England
would shrink.
_15th._--I received a farewell visit from Mr. Thompson, late of Boston,
who states that he finds the inducements to emigrate much fewer and
smaller than he expected. Society, as it at present exists, shews great
want of organization, great want of religion, honour, and virtue, and
the country generally seems destitute of English comforts and
advantages. Yet he is now about to make a commercial attempt, by way of
experiment, which, if not successful, he will return into his former
sphere, well content to remain in it, without again wandering five miles
from it. He believes that none of the tables in America afford the
comforts of an English table. He thinks that the government in its
neglect of seminaries entails imperfection on the people. A bitter
sectarian {469} spirit prevails, and is more vicious than in England,
and there is a miserable, petty feeling of aristocracy. It seems to him
that republicanism is suited only for an infant people.
This evening I took my farewell of the claret club, the focus of liberal
principles and of friendly feelings.
_Sunday, 16th._--Accompanied by Mr. Elliot and the Rev. J. Wright, I
drove to Mount Eagle, the hired seat of Ferdinand Fairfax, Esq., on our
way to Mount Vernon. This gentleman, an English lord, gave us an
introductory letter, penned on the top of a post, to the supreme Judge,
Washington, who received us coldly and reluctantly before he read the
letter, and said, "I do not like to see people on this day, but you may
walk round." He then turned away while Mr. Elliot muttered, "We consider
it no act of impiety to visit the tomb of General Washington, and thus
to come on pilgrimage to the shrine of your illustrious ancestor." On
reading the letter his severity relaxed, and he sent two of his servants
to conduct us to the tomb, through the house and gardens, and to point
out whatever was curious. The road, through the estate, leading to the
mansion, is rough and worn into gullies. Every thing bespeaks the
neglect and apathy of the present owner. The land is poor; the estate is
separated on all sides by a rail fence, that is, rails split and
mortised into posts; and the gardens are surrounded {470} with evergreen
cedar fences, all of which are the work of the late General, for whom
every thing here seems to mourn. The house contains nothing curious save
the huge old iron key of the French Bastile, kept in a glass case, and
the recollection of its being once the abode of General Washington.
Instead of carpets, you see Indian matting on the floors. The furniture
is mean and common, and was brought here by Judge Washington.
The exterior of the house is of wood, sanded over, in imitation of
stone. It suffers for want of paint, while bricks seem falling from the
chimneys without being replaced. Here are no pictures of any value. The
only likeness of the late General is cut from a Chinese pitcher! The
grass upon the lawn and garden, in front and rear of the house, is
rotting and seeding down; it is never mown.
The tomb containing the General, and his lady, and brother, and others
of this renowned family, might be mistaken for a dog-kennel, or a mound,
much resembling a potatoe gr
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