Audubon and His Journals, Volume 2
by John James Audubon · English · Gutenberg #39979 · 1,146,044 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: Audubon and His Journals, Volume 2
Author: John James Audubon
Annotator: Elliott Coues
Editor: Maria R. Audubon
Release date: June 13, 2012 [eBook #39979]
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/39979
Credits: Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images generously made available by The
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Italic text is denoted by _underscores_, bold text by =equals=.
AUDUBON
AND
HIS JOURNALS
[Illustration: EMBERIZA TOWNSENDII, TOWNSEND'S BUNTING.
(Now Spiza townsendii.)
FROM AN UNFINISHED DRAWING BY J. J. AUDUBON OF THE ONLY SPECIMEN
EVER KNOWN, SHOT MAY 11, 1833. IN CHESTER CO., PA., BY J. K.
TOWNSEND.]
AUDUBON AND HIS
JOURNALS
BY
MARIA R. AUDUBON
WITH ZOOeLOGICAL AND OTHER NOTES
BY
ELLIOTT COUES
_ILLUSTRATED_
VOLUME II.
NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
1897
_Copyright, 1897_,
BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS.
University Press:
JOHN WILSON AND SON CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.
CONTENTS
VOLUME II
PAGE
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS (_continued_) 1
EPISODES:
LOUISVILLE IN KENTUCKY 199
THE OHIO 203
FISHING IN THE OHIO 208
A WILD HORSE 215
BREAKING UP OF THE ICE 222
THE PRAIRIE 225
THE REGULATORS 231
THE EARTHQUAKE 234
THE HURRICANE 237
COLONEL BOONE 241
NATCHEZ IN 1820 246
THE LOST PORTFOLIO 250
THE ORIGINAL PAINTER 254
THE COUGAR 260
THE RUNAWAY 267
A TOUGH WALK FOR A YOUTH 274
HOSPITALITY IN THE WOODS 280
NIAGARA 286
MEADVILLE 289
THE BURNING OF THE FORESTS 294
A LONG CALM AT SEA 301
STILL BECALMED 306
GREAT EGG HARBOR 310
THE GREAT PINE SWAMP 314
THE LOST ONE 321
THE LIVE-OAKERS 327
SPRING GARDEN 333
DEATH OF A PIRATE 339
THE WRECKERS OF FLORIDA 345
ST. JOHN'S RIVER IN FLORIDA 352
THE FLORIDA KEYS. I 358
THE FLORIDA KEYS. II 365
THE TURTLERS 371
THE FORCE OF THE WATERS 380
JOURNEY IN NEW BRUNSWICK AND MAINE 387
A MOOSE HUNT 393
LABRADOR 401
THE EGGERS OF LABRADOR 406
THE SQUATTERS OF LABRADOR 411
COD FISHING 418
A BALL IN NEWFOUNDLAND 426
THE BAY OF FUNDY 431
A FLOOD 437
THE SQUATTERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI 443
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE NAVIGATION OF THE MISSISSIPPI 449
KENTUCKY SPORTS 455
THE TRAVELLER AND THE POLE-CAT 462
DEER HUNTING 466
THE ECCENTRIC NATURALIST 473
SCIPIO AND THE BEAR 481
A KENTUCKY BARBECUE 486
A RACCOON HUNT IN KENTUCKY 490
PITTING OF WOLVES 497
THE OPOSSUM 501
A MAPLE-SUGAR CAMP 506
THE WHITE PERCH AND ITS FAVORITE BAIT 509
THE AMERICAN SUN PERCH 515
MY STYLE OF DRAWING BIRDS 522
INDEX 529
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
VOL. II.
PAGE
EMBERIZA TOWNSENDII (NOW SPIZA TOWNSENDII),
TOWNSEND'S BUNTING _Frontispiece_
From an unfinished drawing by J. J. Audubon of the only
specimen ever known. Shot May 11, 1833, in Chester
County, Pa., by J. K. Townsend.
AUDUBON 84
From the pencil sketch by Isaac Sprague, 1842. In the
possession of the Sprague family, Wellesley Hills, Mass.
CAMP AT THE THREE MAMELLES 118
From a drawing by Audubon, hitherto unpublished.
CAMP ON THE MISSOURI 160
From a drawing by Isaac Sprague.
MRS. AUDUBON. 1854 176
From a daguerreotype.
AUDUBON. 1839 234
Painted in Edinburgh by J. W. Audubon.
VICTOR GIFFORD AUDUBON 274
Painted by Audubon about 1823.
JOHN WOODHOUSE AUDUBON 310
Painted by Audubon about 1823.
TRINGA ALPINA (NOW PELIDNA ALPINA PACIFICA), RED-BACKED
SANDPIPER 352
From the unpublished drawing by J. J. Audubon, November
24, 1831.
AUDUBON. 1850 406
From a daguerreotype. Owned by Mrs. Elizabeth Berthoud
Grimshaw.
VICTOR GIFFORD AUDUBON. 1853 456
JOHN WOODHOUSE AUDUBON. 1853 486
OLD MILL AND MILLER'S COTTAGE AT MILL GROVE ON THE
PERKIOMEN CREEK 524
From a photograph from W. H. Wetherill, Esq.
AUDUBON 526
From a pencil sketch after death by John Woodhouse Audubon,
January 28, 1851.
BOWIE KNIFE 527
Presented by Henry Carleton.
FACSIMILES OF DIPLOMAS _At end of volume_
La Societe Linneenne de Paris. 6 Novembre, 1823.
Lyceum of Natural History, New York. January 13, 1824.
Societe d'Histoire Naturelle de Paris. 5 Decembre, 1828.
American Academy of Arts and Sciences, Massachusetts.
November 10, 1830.
Royal Society of Edinburgh. March 5, 1831.
Royal Jennerian Society, London. July 15, 1836.
Literary and Historical Society of Quebec. November 19,
1836.
Western Academy of Natural Sciences, St. Louis, Mo.
April 17, 1843.
Natural History Society of Montreal. March 29, 1847.
THE MISSOURI RIVER JOURNALS
1843
(_Continued_)
_June 4, Sunday._ We have run pretty well, though the wind has been
tolerably high; the country we have passed this day is somewhat better
than what we saw yesterday, which, as I said, was the poorest we have
seen. No occurrence of interest has taken place. We passed this morning
the old Riccaree[1] Village, where General Ashley[2] was so completely
beaten as to lose eighteen of his men, with the very weapons and
ammunition that he had trafficked with the Indians of that village,
against all the remonstrances of his friends and interpreters; yet he
said that it proved fortunate for him, as he turned his steps towards
some other spot, where he procured one hundred packs of Beaver skins for
a mere song. We stopped to cut wood at an old house put up for winter
quarters, and the wood being ash, and quite dry, was excellent. We are
now fast for the night at an abandoned post, or fort, of the Company,
where, luckily for us, a good deal of wood was found cut. We saw only
one Wolf, and a few small gangs of Buffaloes. Bell shot a Bunting which
resembles Henslow's, but we have no means of comparing it at present. We
have collected a few plants during our landing. The steam is blowing
off, and therefore our day's run is ended. When I went to bed last night
it was raining smartly, and Alexis did not go off, as he did wish. By
the way, I forgot to say that along with the three Prairie Marmots, he
brought also four Spoon-billed Ducks, which we ate at dinner to-day, and
found delicious. Bell saw many Lazuli Finches this morning.
Notwithstanding the tremendous shaking of our boat, Sprague managed to
draw four figures of the legs and feet of the Wolf shot by Bell
yesterday, and my own pencil was not idle.
_June 5, Monday._ Alexis went off in the night sometime, and came on
board about three o'clock this morning; he had seen nothing whatever,
except the traces of Beavers and of Otters, on Beaver Creek, which, by
the way, he had to cross on a raft. Speaking of rafts, I am told that
one of these, made of two bundles of rushes, about the size of a man's
body, and fastened together by a few sticks, is quite sufficient to take
two men and two packs of Buffalo robes across this muddy river. In the
course of the morning we passed Cannon Ball River,[3] and the very
remarkable bluffs about it, of which we cannot well speak until we have
stopped there and examined their nature. We saw two Swans alighting on
the prairie at a considerable distance. We stopped to take wood at
Bowie's settlement, at which place his wife was killed by some of the
Riccaree Indians, after some Gros Ventres had assured him that such
would be the case if he suffered his wife to go out of the house. She
went out, however, on the second day, and was shot with three
rifle-balls. The Indians took parts of her hair and went off. She was
duly buried; but the Gros Ventres returned some time afterwards, took up
the body, and carried off the balance of her hair. They, however,
reburied her; and it was not until several months had elapsed that the
story came to the ears of Mr. Bowie. We have also passed Apple Creek,[4]
but the chief part is yet to be added. At one place where the bluffs
were high, we saw five Buffaloes landing a few hundred yards above us on
the western side; one of them cantered off immediately, and by some
means did reach the top of the hills, and went out of our sight; the
four others ran, waded, and swam at different places, always above us,
trying to make their escape. At one spot they attempted to climb the
bluff, having unconsciously passed the place where their leader had made
good his way, and in their attempts to scramble up, tumbled down, and at
last became so much affrighted that they took to the river for good,
with the intention to swim to the shore they had left. Unfortunately for
them, we had been gaining upon them; we had all been anxiously watching
them, and the moment they began to swim we were all about the boat with
guns and rifles, awaiting the instant when they would be close under our
bows. The moment came; I was on the lower deck among several of the
people with guns, and the firing was soon heavy; but not one of the
Buffaloes was stopped, although every one must have been severely hit
and wounded. Bell shot a load of buckshot at the head of one, which
disappeared entirely under the water for perhaps a minute. I sent a ball
through the neck of the last of the four, but all ineffectually, and off
they went, swimming to the opposite shore; one lagged behind the rest,
but, having found footing on a sand-bar, it rested awhile, and again
swam off to rejoin its companions. They all reached the shore, but were
quite as badly off on that side as they had been on the other, and their
difficulties must have been great indeed; however, in a short time we
had passed them. Mr. Charles Primeau,[5] who is a good shot, and who
killed the young Buffalo bull the other day, assured me that it was his
opinion the whole of these would die before sundown, but that Buffaloes
swimming were a hundred times more difficult to kill than those on
shore. I have been told also, that a Buffalo shot by an Indian, in the
presence of several whites, exhibited some marks on the inside of the
skin that looked like old wounds, and that on close examination they
found no less than six balls in its paunch. Sometimes they will run a
mile after having been struck through the heart; whilst at other times
they will fall dead without such desperate shot. Alexis told me that
once he shot one through the thigh, and that it fell dead on the spot.
We passed this afternoon a very curious conical mound of earth, about
which Harris and I had some curiosity, by which I lost two pounds of
snuff, as he was right, and I was wrong. We have seen Geese and
Goslings, Ravens, Blue Herons, Bluebirds, Thrushes, Red-headed
Woodpeckers and Red-shafted ditto, Martins, an immense number of
Rough-winged Swallows about their holes, and Barn Swallows. We heard
Killdeers last evening. Small Crested Flycatchers, Summer Yellow-birds,
Maryland Yellow-throats, House Wrens are seen as we pass along our
route; while the Spotted Sandpiper accompanies us all along the river.
Sparrow Hawks, Turkey Buzzards, Arctic Towhee Buntings, Cat-birds,
Mallards, Coots, Gadwalls, King-birds, Yellow-breasted Chats, Red
Thrushes, all are noted as we pass. We have had a good day's run; it is
now half-past ten. The wind has been cold, and this evening we have had
a dash of rain. We have seen only one Wolf. We have heard some wonderful
stories about Indians and white men, none of which I can well depend
upon. We have stopped for the night a few miles above where the
"Assiniboin"[6] steamer was burnt with all her cargo uninsured, in the
year 1835. I heard that after she had run ashore, the men started to
build a scow to unload the cargo; but that through some accident the
vessel was set on fire, and that a man and a woman who alone had been
left on board, walked off to the island, where they remained some days
unable to reach shore.
_June 6, Tuesday._ This morning was quite cold, and we had a thick white
frost on our upper deck. It was also extremely cloudy, the wind from the
east, and all about us looked dismal enough. The hands on board seemed
to have been busy the whole of the night, for I scarcely slept for the
noise they made. We soon came to a very difficult part of the river, and
had to stop full three hours. Meanwhile the yawl went off to seek and
sound for a channel, whilst the wood-cutters and the carriers--who, by
the way, are called "charrettes"[7]--followed their work, and we
gathered a good quantity of drift-wood, which burns like straw. Our
hopes of reaching the Mandan Village were abandoned, but we at last
proceeded on our way and passed the bar; it was nearly dinner-time.
Harris and Bell had their guns, and brought two Arctic Towhee Buntings
and a Black-billed Cuckoo. They saw two large flocks of Geese making
their way westward. The place where we landed showed many signs of Deer,
Elk, and Buffaloes. I saw trees where the latter had rubbed their heavy
bodies against the bark, till they had completely robbed the tree of its
garment. We saw several Red-shafted Woodpeckers, and other birds named
before. The Buffalo, when hunted on horseback, does _not_ carry its tail
erect, as has been represented in books, but close between the legs; but
when you see a Buffalo bull work its tail sideways in a twisted rolling
fashion, _then_ take care of him, as it is a sure sign of his intention
to rush against his pursuer's horse, which is very dangerous, both to
hunter and steed. As we proceeded I saw two fine White-headed Eagles
alighting on their nest, where perhaps they had young--and how
remarkably late in the season this species does breed here! We also saw
a young Sandhill Crane, and on an open prairie four Antelopes a few
hundred yards off. Alexis tells me that at this season this is a rare
occurrence, as the females are generally in the brushwood now; but in
this instance the male and three females were on open prairie. We have
passed what is called the Heart[8] River, and the Square Hills, which,
of course, are by no means square, but simply more level than the
generality of those we have passed for upwards of three weeks. We now
saw four barges belonging to our company, and came to, above them, as
usual. A Mr. Kipp, one of the partners, came on board; and Harris,
Squires, and myself had time to write each a short letter to our friends
at home. Mr. Kipp had a peculiar looking crew who appeared not much
better than a set of bandits among the Pyrenees or the Alps; yet they
seem to be the very best sort of men for trappers and boatmen. We
exchanged four of our men for four of his, as the latter are wanted at
the Yellowstone. The country appears to Harris and to myself as if we
had outrun the progress of vegetation, as from the boat we observed oaks
scarcely in leaflets, whilst two hundred miles below, and indeed at a
much less distance, we saw the same timber in nearly full leaf; flowers
are also scarce. A single Wolf was seen by some one on deck. Nothing can
be possibly keener than the senses of hearing and sight, as well as of
smell, in the Antelope. Not one was ever known to jump up close to a
hunter; and the very motion of the grasses, as these are wafted by the
wind, will keep them awake and on the alert. Immediately upon the
breaking up of the ice about the Mandan Village, three Buffaloes were
seen floating down on a large cake; they were seen by Mr. Primeau from
his post, and again from Fort Pierre. How much further the poor beasts
travelled, no one can tell. It happens not infrequently, when the river
is entirely closed in with ice, that some hundreds of Buffaloes attempt
to cross; their aggregate enormous weight forces the ice to break, and
the whole of the gang are drowned, as it is impossible for these animals
to climb over the surrounding sharp edges of the ice. We have seen not
less than three nests of White-headed Eagles this day. We are fast
ashore about sixteen miles below the Mandan Villages, and will, in all
probability, reach there to-morrow morning at an early hour. It is
raining yet, and the day has been a most unpleasant one.
_June 7, Wednesday._ We had a vile night of rain, and wind from the
northeast, which is still going on, and likely to continue the whole of
this blessed day. Yesterday, when we had a white frost, ice was found in
the kettles of Mr. Kipp's barges. We reached Fort Clark[9] and the
Mandan Villages at half-past seven this morning. Great guns were fired
from the fort and from the "Omega," as our captain took the guns from
the "Trapper" at Fort Pierre. The site of this fort appears a good one,
though it is placed considerably below the Mandan Village. We saw some
small spots cultivated, where corn, pumpkins, and beans are grown. The
fort and village are situated on the high bank, rising somewhat to the
elevation of a hill. The Mandan mud huts are very far from looking
poetical, although Mr. Catlin has tried to render them so by placing
them in regular rows, and all of the same size and form, which is by no
means the case. But different travellers have different eyes! We saw
more Indians than at any previous time since leaving St. Louis; and it
is possible that there are a hundred huts, made of mud, all looking like
so many potato winter-houses in the Eastern States. As soon as we were
near the shore, every article that could conveniently be carried off was
placed under lock and key, and our division door was made fast, as well
as those of our own rooms. Even the axes and poles were put by. Our
captain told us that last year they stole his cap and his shot-pouch and
horn, and that it was through the interference of the first chief that
he recovered his cap and horn; but that a squaw had his leather belt,
and would not give it up. The appearance of these poor, miserable
devils, as we approached the shore, was wretched enough. There they
stood in the pelting rain and keen wind, covered with Buffalo robes, red
blankets, and the like, some partially and most curiously besmeared with
mud; and as they came on board, and we shook hands with each of them, I
felt a clamminess that rendered the ceremony most repulsive. Their legs
and naked feet were covered with mud. They looked at me with apparent
curiosity, perhaps on account of my beard, which produced the same
effect at Fort Pierre. They all looked very poor; and our captain says
they are the _ne plus ultra_ of thieves. It is said there are nearly
three thousand men, women, and children that, during winter, cram
themselves into these miserable hovels. Harris and I walked to the fort
about nine o'clock. The walking was rascally, passing through mud and
water the whole way. The yard of the fort itself was as bad. We entered
Mr. Chardon's own room, crawled up a crazy ladder, and in a low garret I
had the great pleasure of seeing alive the Swift or Kit Fox which he has
given to me. It ran swiftly from one corner to another, and, when
approached, growled somewhat in the manner of a common Fox. Mr. Chardon
told me that good care would be taken of it until our return, that it
would be chained to render it more gentle, and that I would find it an
easy matter to take it along. I sincerely hope so. Seeing a remarkably
fine skin of a large Cross Fox[10] which I wished to buy, it was handed
over to me. After this, Mr. Chardon asked one of the Indians to take us
into the village, and particularly to show us the "Medicine Lodge." We
followed our guide through mud and mire, even into the Lodge. We found
this to be, in general terms, like all the other lodges, only larger,
measuring twenty-three yards in diameter, with a large squarish aperture
in the centre of the roof, some six or seven feet long by about four
wide. We had entered this curiosity shop by pushing aside a wet Elk skin
stretched on four sticks. Looking around, I saw a number of calabashes,
eight or ten Otter skulls, two very large Buffalo skulls with the horns
on, evidently of great age, and some sticks and other magical implements
with which none but a "Great Medicine Man" is acquainted. During my
survey there sat, crouched down on his haunches, an Indian wrapped in a
dirty blanket, with only his filthy head peeping out. Our guide spoke to
him; but he stirred not. Again, at the foot of one of the posts that
support the central portion of this great room, lay a parcel that I took
for a bundle of Buffalo robes; but it moved presently, and from beneath
it half arose the emaciated body of a poor blind Indian, whose skin was
quite shrivelled; and our guide made us signs that he was about to die.
We all shook both hands with him; and he pressed our hands closely and
with evident satisfaction. He had his pipe and tobacco pouch by him, and
soon lay down again. We left this abode of mysteries, as I was anxious
to see the interior of one of the common huts around; and again our
guide led us through mud and mire to his own lodge, which we entered in
the same way as we had done the other. All these lodges have a sort of
portico that leads to the door, and on the tops of most of them I
observed Buffalo skulls. This lodge contained the whole family of our
guide--several women and children, and another man, perhaps a son-in-law
or a brother. All these, except the man, were on the outer edge of the
lodge, crouching on the ground, some suckling children; and at nearly
equal distances apart were placed berths, raised about two feet above
the ground, made of leather, and with square apertures for the sleepers
or occupants to enter. The man of whom I have spoken was lying down in
one of these, which was all open in front. I walked up to him, and,
after disturbing his happy slumbers, shook hands with him; he made signs
for me to sit down; and after Harris and I had done so, he rose,
squatted himself near us, and, getting out a large spoon made of boiled
Buffalo horn, handed it to a young girl, who brought a great rounded
wooden bowl filled with pemmican, mixed with corn and some other stuff.
I ate a mouthful or so of it, and found it quite palatable; and Harris
and the rest then ate of it also. Bell was absent; we had seen nothing
of him since we left the boat. This lodge, as well as the other, was
dirty with water and mud; but I am told that in dry weather they are
kept cleaner, and much cleaning do they need, most truly. A round,
shallow hole was dug in the centre for the fire; and from the roof
descended over this a chain, by the aid of which they do their cooking,
the utensil being attached to the chain when wanted. As we returned
towards the fort, I gave our guide a piece of tobacco, and he appeared
well pleased. He followed us on board, and as he peeped in my room, and
saw the dried and stuffed specimens we have, he evinced a slight degree
of curiosity. Our captain, Mr. Chardon, and our men have been busily
engaged in putting ashore that portion of the cargo designed for this
fort, which in general appearance might be called a poor miniature
representation of Fort Pierre. The whole country around was overgrown
with "Lamb's quarters" (_Chenopodium album_), which I have no doubt, if
boiled, would take the place of spinach in this wild and, to my eyes,
miserable country, the poetry of which lies in the imagination of those
writers who have described the "velvety prairies" and "enchanted
castles" (of mud), so common where we now are. We observed a
considerable difference in the color of these Indians, who, by the way,
are almost all Riccarees; many appeared, and in fact are, redder than
others; they are lank, rather tall, and very alert, but, as I have said
before, all look poor and dirty. After dinner we went up the muddy bank
again to look at the corn-fields, as the small patches that are meanly
cultivated are called. We found poor, sickly looking corn about two
inches high, that had been represented to us this morning as full six
inches high. We followed the prairie, a very extensive one, to the
hills, and there found a deep ravine, sufficiently impregnated with
saline matter to answer the purpose of salt water for the Indians to
boil their corn and pemmican, clear and clean; but they, as well as the
whites at the fort, resort to the muddy Missouri for their drinking
water, the only fresh water at hand. Not a drop of spirituous liquor has
been brought to this place for the last two years; and there can be no
doubt that on this account the Indians have become more peaceable than
heretofore, though now and then a white man is murdered, and many horses
are stolen. As we walked over the plain, we saw heaps of earth thrown up
to cover the poor Mandans who died of the small-pox. These mounds in
many instances appear to contain the remains of several bodies and,
perched on the top, lies, pretty generally, the rotting skull of a
Buffalo. Indeed, the skulls of the Buffaloes seem as if a kind of
relation to these most absurdly superstitious and ignorant beings. I
could not hear a word of the young Grizzly Bear of which Mr. Chardon had
spoken to me. He gave me his Buffalo head-dress and other trifles--as
he was pleased to call them; all of which will prove more or less
interesting and curious to you when they reach Minniesland. He presented
Squires with a good hunting shirt and a few other things, and to all of
us, presented moccasins. We collected a few round cacti;[11] and I saw
several birds that looked much the worse for the cold and wet weather we
have had these last few days. Our boat has been thronged with Indians
ever since we have tied to the shore; and it is with considerable
difficulty and care that we can stop them from intruding into our rooms
when we are there. We found many portions of skulls lying on the ground,
which, perhaps, did at one period form the circles of them spoken of by
Catlin. All around the village is filthy beyond description. Our captain
tells us that no matter what weather we may have to-morrow, he will
start at daylight, even if he can only go across the river, to get rid
of these wolfish-looking vagabonds of Indians. I sincerely hope that we
may have a fair day and a long run, so that the air around us may once
more be pure and fresh from the hand of Nature. After the Riccarees had
taken possession of this Mandan Village, the remains of that once
powerful tribe removed about three miles up the river, and there have
now fifteen or twenty huts, containing, of course, only that number of
families. During the worst periods of the epidemic which swept over this
village with such fury, many became maniacs, rushed to the Missouri,
leaped into its turbid waters, and were seen no more. Mr. Primeau, wife,
and children, as well as another half-breed, have gone to the fort, and
are to remain there till further orders. The fort is in a poor
condition, roofs leaking, etc. Whilst at the fort this afternoon, I was
greatly surprised to see a tall, athletic Indian thrashing the dirty
rascals about Mr. Chardon's door most severely; but I found on inquiry
that he was called "the soldier,"[12] and that he had authority to do so
whenever the Indians intruded or congregated in the manner this
_canaille_ had done. After a while the same tall fellow came on board
with his long stick, and immediately began belaboring the fellows on the
lower guards; the latter ran off over the planks, and scrambled up the
muddy banks as if so many affrighted Buffaloes. Since then we have been
comparatively quiet; but I hope they will all go off, as the captain is
going to put the boat from the shore, to the full length of our spars.
The wind has shifted to the northward, and the atmosphere has been so
chilled that a House Swallow was caught, benumbed with cold, and brought
to me by our captain. Harris, Bell, and I saw a Cliff Swallow take
refuge on board; but this was not caught. We have seen Say's Flycatcher,
the Ground Finch, Cow Buntings, and a few other birds. One of the agents
arrived this afternoon from the Gros Ventre, or Minnetaree Village,
about twelve miles above us. He is represented as a remarkably brave
man, and he relates some strange adventures of his prowess. Several
_great warriors_ have condescended to shake me by the hand; their very
touch is disgusting--it will indeed be a deliverance to get rid of all
this "Indian poetry." We are, nevertheless, to take a few to the
Yellowstone. Alexis has his wife, who is, in fact, a good-looking young
woman; an old patroon, Provost, takes one of his daughters along; and we
have, besides, several red-skinned single gentlemen. We were assured
that the northern parts of the hills, that form a complete curtain to
the vast prairie on which we have walked this afternoon, are still
adorned with patches of snow that fell there during last winter. It is
now nine o'clock, but before I go to rest I cannot resist giving you a
description of the curious exhibition that we have had on board, from a
numerous lot of Indians of the first class, say some forty or fifty.
They ranged themselves along the sides of the large cabin, squatting on
the floor. Coffee had been prepared for the whole party, and hard
sea-biscuit likewise. The coffee was first given to each of them, and
afterwards the biscuits, and I had the honor of handing the latter to
the row on one side of the boat; a box of tobacco was opened and laid on
the table. The man who came from the Gros Ventres this afternoon proved
to be an excellent interpreter; and after the captain had delivered his
speech to him, he spoke loudly to the group, and explained the purport
of the captain's speech. They grunted their approbation frequently, and
were, no doubt, pleased. Two individuals (Indians) made their appearance
highly decorated, with epaulets on the shoulders, red clay on blue
uniforms, three cocks' plumes in their head-dress, rich moccasins,
leggings, etc. These are men who, though in the employ of the Opposition
company, act truly as friends; but who, meantime, being called "Braves,"
never grunted, bowed, or shook hands with any of us. Supper over and the
tobacco distributed, the whole body arose simultaneously, and each and
every one of these dirty wretches we had all to shake by the hand. The
two braves sat still until all the rest had gone ashore, and then
retired as majestically as they had entered, not even shaking hands with
our good-humored captain. I am told that this performance takes place
once every year, on the passing of the Company's boats. I need not say
that the coffee and the two biscuits apiece were gobbled down in less
than no time. The tobacco, which averaged about two pounds to each man,
was hid in their robes or blankets for future use. Two of the Indians,
who must have been of the highest order, and who distributed the "rank
weed," were nearly naked; one had on only a breech-clout and one
legging, the other was in no better case. They are now all ashore
except one or more who are going with us to the Yellowstone; and I will
now go to my rest. Though I have said "Good-night," I have arisen almost
immediately, and I must write on, for we have other scenes going on both
among the trappers below and some of the people above. Many Indians,
squaws as well as men, are bartering and trading, and keep up such a
babble that Harris and I find sleep impossible; needless to say, the
squaws who are on board are of the lowest grade of morality.
_June 8, Thursday._ This morning was fair and cold, as you see by the
range of the thermometer, 37 deg. to 56 deg.. We started at a very early hour,
and breakfasted before five, on account of the village of Gros Ventres,
where our captain had to stop. We passed a few lodges belonging to the
tribe of the poor Mandans, about all that remained. I only counted
eight, but am told there are twelve. The village of the Gros Ventres
(Minnetarees) has been cut off from the bank of the river by an enormous
sand-bar, now overgrown with willows and brush, and we could only see
the American flag flying in the cool breeze. Two miles above this,
however, we saw an increasing body of Indians, for the prairie was
sprinkled with small parties, on horse and on foot. The first who
arrived fired a salute of small guns, and we responded with our big gun.
They had an abundance of dogs harnessed to take wood back to the
village, and their yells and fighting were severe upon our ears. Some
forty or more of the distinguished blackguards came on board; and we had
to close our doors as we did yesterday. After a short period they were
feasted as last evening; and speeches, coffee, and tobacco, as well as
some gunpowder, were given them, which they took away in packs, to be
divided afterward. We took one more passenger, and lost our interpreter,
who is a trader with the Minnetarees. The latter are by no means as
fine-looking a set of men as those we have seen before, and I observed
none of that whiteness of skin among them. There were numbers of men,
women, and children. We saw a crippled and evidently tame Wolf, and two
Indians, following us on the top of the hills. We saw two Swans on a
bar, and a female Elk, with her young fawn, for a few minutes. I wished
that we had been ashore, as I know full well that the mother would not
leave her young; and the mother killed, the young one would have been
easily caught alive. We are now stopping for the night, and our men are
cutting wood. We have done this, I believe, four times to-day, and have
run upward of sixty miles. At the last wood-cutting place, a young
leveret was started by the men, and after a short race, the poor thing
squatted, and was killed by the stroke of a stick. It proved to be the
young of _Lepus townsendii_ [_L. campestris_], large enough to have left
the mother, and weighing rather more than a pound. It is a very
beautiful specimen. The eyes are very large, and the iris pure amber
color. Its hair is tightly, but beautifully curled. Its measurements are
as follows [_omitted_]. Bell will make a fine skin of it to-morrow
morning. We have had all sorts of stories related to us; but Mr. Kipp,
who has been in the country for twenty-two years, is evidently a person
of truth, and I expect a good deal of information from him. Our captain
told us that on a previous voyage some Indians asked him if, "when the
great Medicine" (meaning the steamer) "was tired, he gave it whiskey."
Mr. Sire laughed, and told them he did. "How much?" was the query. "A
barrelful, to be sure!" The poor wretches at first actually believed
him, and went off contented, but were naturally angry at being
undeceived on a later occasion. I have now some hope of finding a young
of the Antelope alive at Fort Union, as Mr. Kipp left one there about
ten days ago. I am now going to bed, though our axemen and "charettes"
are still going; and I hope I may not be called up to-morrow morning,
to be ready for breakfast at half-past four. Harris and Bell went off
with Alexis. Bell fired at a bird, and a large Wolf immediately made its
appearance. This is always the case in this country; when you shoot an
animal and hide yourself, you may see, in less than half an hour, from
ten to thirty of these hungry rascals around the carcass, and have fine
fun shooting at them. We have had a windy day, but a good run on the
whole. I hope to-morrow may prove propitious, and that we shall reach
Fort Union in five more days.
_June 9, Friday._ Thermometer 42 deg., 75 deg., 66 deg.. We had a heavy white frost
last night, but we have had a fine, pleasant day on the whole, and to me
a most interesting one. We passed the Little Missouri[13] (the real one)
about ten this morning. It is a handsome stream, that runs all the way
from the Black Hills, one of the main spurs of the mighty Rocky
Mountains. We saw three Elks swimming across it, and the number of this
fine species of Deer that are about us now is almost inconceivable. We
have heard of burning springs, which we intend to examine on our way
down. We started a Goose from the shore that had evidently young ones;
she swam off, beating the water with wings half extended, until nearly
one hundred yards off. A shot from a rifle was fired at her, and
happily missed the poor thing; she afterwards lowered her neck, sank her
body, and with the tip of the bill only above water, kept swimming away
from us till out of sight. Afterwards one of the trappers shot at two
Geese with two young ones. We landed at four o'clock, and Harris and
Bell shot some Bay-winged Buntings and _Emberiza pallida_, whilst
Sprague and I went up to the top of the hills, bounding the beautiful
prairie, by which we had stopped to repair something about the engine.
We gathered some handsome lupines, of two different species, and many
other curious plants. From this elevated spot we could see the
wilderness to an immense distance; the Missouri looked as if only a
brook, and our steamer a very small one indeed. At this juncture we saw
two men running along the shore upwards, and I supposed they had seen an
Elk or something else, of which they were in pursuit. Meantime, gazing
around, we saw a large lake, where we are told that Ducks, Geese, and
Swans breed in great numbers; this we intend also to visit when we come
down. At this moment I heard the report of a gun from the point where
the men had been seen, and when we reached the steamboat, we were told
that a Buffalo had been killed. From the deck I saw a man swimming round
the animal; he got on its side, and floated down the stream with it. The
captain sent a parcel of men with a rope; the swimmer fastened this
round the neck of the Buffalo, and with his assistance, for he now swam
all the way, the poor beast was brought alongside; and as the tackle had
been previously fixed, it was hauled up on the fore deck. Sprague took
its measurements with me, which are as follows: length from nose to root
of tail, 8 feet; height of fore shoulder to hoof, 4 ft. 91/2 in.; height
at the rump to hoof, 4 ft. 2 in. The head was cut off, as well as one
fore and one hind foot. The head is so full of symmetry, and so
beautiful, that I shall have a drawing of it to-morrow, as well as
careful ones of the feet. Whilst the butchers were at work, I was highly
interested to see one of our Indians cutting out the milk-bag of the cow
and eating it, quite fresh and raw, in pieces somewhat larger than a
hen's egg. One of the stomachs was partially washed in a bucket of
water, and an Indian swallowed a large portion of this. Mr. Chardon
brought the remainder on the upper deck and ate it uncleaned. I had a
piece well cleaned and tasted it; to my utter astonishment, it was very
good, but the idea was repulsive to me; besides which, I am not a
meat-eater, as you know, except when other provisions fail. The animal
was in good condition; and the whole carcass was cut up and dispersed
among the men below, reserving the nicer portions for the cabin. This
was accomplished with great rapidity; the blood was washed away in a
trice, and half an hour afterwards no one would have known that a
Buffalo had been dressed on deck. We now met with a somewhat
disagreeable accident; in starting and backing off the boat, our yawl
was run beneath the boat; this strained it, and sprung one of the planks
so much that, when we landed on the opposite side of the river, we had
to haul it on shore, and turn it over for examination; it was afterwards
taken to the forecastle to undergo repairs to-morrow, as it is often
needed. Whilst cutting wood was going on, we went ashore. Bell shot at
two Buffaloes out of eight, and killed both; he would also have shot a
Wolf, had he had more bullets. Harris saw, and shot at, an Elk; but he
knows little about still hunting, and thereby lost a good chance. A
negro fire-tender went off with his rifle and shot two of Townsend's
Hares. One was cut in two by his ball, and he left it on the ground; the
other was shot near the rump, and I have it now hanging before me; and,
let me tell you, that I never before saw so beautiful an animal of the
same family. My drawing will be a good one; it is a fine specimen, an
old male. I have been hearing much of the prevalence of scurvy, from
living so constantly on dried flesh, also about the small-pox, which
destroyed such numbers of the Indians. Among the Mandans, Riccarees, and
Gros Ventres, hundreds died in 1837, only a few surviving; and the
Assiniboins were nearly exterminated. Indeed it is said that in the
various attacks of this scourge 52,000 Indians have perished. This last
visitation of the dread disease has never before been related by a
traveller,[14] and I will write more of it when at Fort Union. It is now
twenty minutes to midnight; and, with walking and excitement of one kind
or another, I am ready for bed. Alexis and another hunter will be off in
an hour on a hunt.
_June 10, Saturday._ I rose at half-past three this morning. It was
clear and balmy; our men were cutting wood, and we went off shooting. We
saw a female Elk that was loath to leave the neighborhood; and Bell shot
a Sharp-tailed Grouse, which we ate at our supper and found pretty good,
though sadly out of season. As we were returning to the boat, Alexis and
his companion went off after Buffaloes that we saw grazing peaceably on
the bank near the river. Whilst they were shooting at the Buffaloes, and
almost simultaneously, the fawn of the female Elk was seen lying asleep
under the bank. It rose as we approached, and Bell shot at it, but
missed; and with its dam it went briskly off. It was quite small,
looking almost red, and was beautifully spotted with light marks of the
color of the Virginia Deer's fawn. I would have given five dollars for
it, as I saw it skipping over the prairie. At this moment Alexis came
running, and told the captain they had killed two Buffaloes; and almost
all the men went off at once with ropes, to bring the poor animals on
board, according to custom. One, however, had been already dressed. The
other had its head cut off, and the men were tugging at the rope,
hauling the beast along over the grass. Mr. Chardon was seated on it;
until, when near the boat, the rope gave way, and the bull rolled over
into a shallow ravine. It was soon on board, however, and quickly
skinned and cut up. The two hunters had been absent three-quarters of an
hour. At the report of the guns, two Wolves made their appearance, and
no doubt fed at leisure on the offal left from the first Buffalo. Harris
saw a gang of Elks, consisting of between thirty and forty. We have
passed a good number of Wild Geese with goslings; the Geese were shot
at, notwithstanding my remonstrances on account of the young, but
fortunately all escaped. We passed some beautiful scenery when about the
middle of the "Bend," and almost opposite had the pleasure of seeing
five Mountain Rams, or Bighorns, on the summit of a hill. I looked at
them through the telescope; they stood perfectly still for some minutes,
then went out of sight, and then again were in view. One of them had
very large horns; the rest appeared somewhat smaller. Our captain told
us that he had seen them at, or very near by, the same place last
season, on his way up. We saw many very curious cliffs, but not one
answering the drawings engraved for Catlin's work. We passed Knife
River,[15] _Riviere aux Couteaux_, and stopped for a short time to take
in wood. Harris killed a Sparrow Hawk, and saw several Red-shafted
Woodpeckers. Bell was then engaged in saving the head of the Buffalo
cow, of which I made a drawing, and Sprague an outline, notwithstanding
the horrible motion of our boat. We passed safely a dangerous chain of
rocks extending across the river; we also passed White River;[16] both
the streams I have mentioned are insignificant. The weather was warm,
and became cloudy, and it is now raining smartly. We have, however, a
good quantity of excellent wood, and have made a good run, say sixty
miles. We saw what we supposed to be three Grizzly Bears, but could not
be sure. We saw on the prairie ahead of us some Indians, and as we
neared them, found them to be Assiniboins. There were about ten
altogether, men, squaws, and children. The boat was stopped, and a
smart-looking, though small-statured man came on board. He had eight
plugs of tobacco given him, and was asked to go off; but he talked a
vast deal, and wanted powder and ball. He was finally got rid of. During
his visit, our Gros Ventre chief and our Sioux were both in my own
cabin. The first having killed three of that tribe and scalped them, and
the Sioux having a similar record, they had no wish to meet. A few miles
above this we stopped to cut wood. Bell and Harris went on shore; and we
got a White Wolf, so old and so poor that we threw it overboard.
Meantime a fawn Elk was observed crossing the river, coming toward our
shore; it was shot at twice, but missed; it swam to the shore, but under
such a steep bank that it could not get up. Alexis, who was told of
this, ran down the river bank, reached it, and fastened his suspenders
around its neck, but could not get it up the bank. Bell had returned,
and went to his assistance, but all in vain; the little thing was very
strong, and floundered and struggled till it broke the tie, and swam
swiftly with the current down the river, and was lost. A slight rope
would have secured it to us. This was almost the same spot where the
captain caught one alive last season with the yawl; and we could have
performed the same feat easily, had not the yawl been on deck
undergoing repairs. We pushed off, and very soon saw more Indians on the
shore, also Assiniboins. They had crossed the "Bend" below us, and had
brought some trifles to trade with us; but our captain passed on, and
the poor wretches sat and looked at the "Great Medicine" in
astonishment. Shortly after this, we saw a Wolf attempting to climb a
very steep bank of clay; he fell down thrice, but at last reached the
top and disappeared at once. On the opposite shore another Wolf was
lying down on a sand-bar, like a dog, and might readily have been taken
for one. We have stopped for the night at nine o'clock; and I now have
done my day's putting-up of memoranda and sketches, intending to enlarge
upon much after I return home. I forgot to say that last evening we saw
a large herd of Buffaloes, with many calves among them; they were
grazing quietly on a fine bit of prairie, and we were actually opposite
to them and within two hundred yards before they appeared to notice us.
They stared, and then started at a handsome canter, suddenly wheeled
round, stopped, closed up their ranks, and then passed over a slight
knoll, producing a beautiful picturesque view. Another thing I forgot to
speak of is a place not far below the Little Missouri, where Mr. Kipp
assured us we should find the remains of a petrified forest, which we
hope to see later.
_June 11, Sunday._ This day has been tolerably fine, though windy. We
have seen an abundance of game, a great number of Elks, common Virginian
Deer, Mountain Rams in two places, and a fine flock of Sharp-tailed
Grouse, that, when they flew off from the ground near us, looked very
much like large Meadow Larks. They were on a prairie bordering a large
patch of Artemisia, which in the distance presents the appearance of
acres of cabbages. We have seen many Wolves and some Buffaloes. One
young bull stood on the brink of a bluff, looking at the boat
steadfastly for full five minutes; and as we neared the spot, he waved
his tail, and moved off briskly. On another occasion, a young bull that
had just landed at the foot of a very steep bluff was slaughtered
without difficulty; two shots were fired at it, and the poor thing was
killed by a rifle bullet. I was sorry, for we did not stop for it, and
its happy life was needlessly ended. I saw near that spot a large Hawk,
and also a very small Tamias, or Ground Squirrel. Harris saw a
Spermophile, of what species none of us could tell. We have seen many
Elks swimming the river, and they look almost the size of a well-grown
mule. They stared at us, were fired at, at an enormous distance, it is
true, and yet stood still. These animals are abundant beyond belief
hereabouts. We have seen much remarkably handsome scenery, but nothing
at all comparing with Catlin's descriptions; his book must, after all,
be altogether a humbug. Poor devil! I pity him from the bottom of my
soul; had he studied, and kept up to the old French proverb that says,
"Bon renomme vaut mieux que ceinture dore," he might have become an
"honest man"--the quintessence of God's works. We did hope to have
reached L'Eau Bourbeux (the Muddy River[17]) this evening, but we are
now fast ashore, about six miles below it, about the same distance that
we have been told we were ever since shortly after dinner. We have had
one event: our boat caught fire, and burned for a few moments near the
stern, the effects of the large, hot cinders coming from the chimney;
but it was almost immediately put out, thank God! Any inattention, with
about 10,000 lbs. of powder on board, might have resulted in a sad
accident. We have decided to write a short letter of thanks to our truly
gentlemanly captain, and to present him with a handsome six-barrelled
pistol, the only thing we have that may prove of service to him,
although I hope he may never need it. Sprague drew four figures of the
Buffalo's foot; and Bell and I have packed the whole of our skins. We
ran to-day all round the compass, touching every point. The following is
a copy of the letter to Captain Sire, signed by all of us.
FORT UNION, MOUTH OF YELLOWSTONE, UPPER MISSOURI,
_June 11th, 1843_.
DEAR SIR,--We cannot part with you previous to your return to St.
Louis, without offering to you our best wishes, and our thanks for
your great courtesy, assuring you how highly we appreciate, and feel
grateful for, your uniform kindness and gentlemanly deportment to each
and all of us. We are most happy to add that our passage to the
Yellowstone River has been devoid of any material accident, which we
can only attribute to the great regularity and constant care with
which you have discharged your arduous duties in the difficult
navigation of the river.
We regret that it is not in our power, at this moment, to offer you a
suitable token of our esteem, but hope you will confer on us the favor
of accepting at our hands a six-barrelled, silver-mounted pistol,
which we sincerely hope and trust you may never have occasion to use
in defence of your person. We beg you to consider us,
Your well-wishers and friends, etc.,
_Fort Union, June 12, Monday._ We had a cloudy and showery day, and a
high wind besides. We saw many Wild Geese and Ducks with their young. We
took in wood at two places, but shot nothing. I saw a Wolf giving chase,
or driving away four Ravens from a sand-bar; but the finest sight of all
took place shortly before we came to the mouth of the Yellowstone, and
that was no less than twenty-two Mountain Rams and Ewes mixed, and amid
them one young one only. We came in sight of the fort at five o'clock,
and reached it at seven. We passed the Opposition fort three miles below
this; their flags were hoisted, and ours also. We were saluted from
Fort Union, and we fired guns in return, six in number. The moment we
had arrived, the gentlemen of the fort came down on horseback, and
appeared quite a cavalcade. I was introduced to Mr. Culbertson and
others, and, of course, the introduction went the rounds. We walked to
the fort and drank some first-rate port wine, and returned to the boat
at half-past nine o'clock. Our captain was pleased with the letter and
the pistol. Our trip to this place has been the quickest on record,
though our boat is the slowest that ever undertook to reach the
Yellowstone. Including all stoppages and detentions, we have made the
trip in forty-eight days and seven hours from St. Louis. We left St.
Louis April 25th, at noon; reaching Fort Union June 12th, at seven in
the evening.
_June 13, Tuesday._ We had a remarkably busy day on board and on shore,
but spent much of our time writing letters. I wrote home at great length
to John Bachman, N. Berthoud, and Gideon B. Smith. We walked to the fort
once and back again, and dined on board with our captain and the
gentlemen of the fort. We took a ride also in an old wagon, somewhat at
the risk of our necks, for we travelled too fast for the nature of what
I was told was the road. We slept on board the "Omega," probably for the
last time.
We have been in a complete state of excitement unloading the boat,
reloading her with a new cargo, and we were all packing and arranging
our effects, as well as writing letters. After dinner our belongings
were taken to the landing of the fort in a large keel-boat, with the
last of the cargo. The room which we are to occupy during our stay at
this place is rather small and low, with only one window, on the west
side. However, we shall manage well enough, I dare say, for the few
weeks we are to be here. This afternoon I had a good deal of
conversation with Mr. Culbertson, and found him well disposed to do all
he can for us; and no one can ask for more politeness than is shown us.
Our captain having invited us to remain with him to-night, we have done
so, and will breakfast with him to-morrow morning. It is his intention
to leave as early as he can settle his business here. All the trappers
are gone to the fort, and in a few weeks will be dispersed over
different and distant parts of the wilderness. The filth they had left
below has been scraped and washed off, as well indeed as the whole boat,
of which there was need enough. I have copied this journal and send it
to St. Louis by our good captain; also one box of skins, one pair Elk
horns, and one bundle of Wolf and other skins.
_June 14, Wednesday._ At six this morning all hands rose early; the
residue of the cargo for St. Louis was placed on board. Our captain told
us time was up, and we all started for the fort on foot, quite a short
distance. Having deposited our guns there, Bell, Squires, and I walked
off to the wooding-place, where our captain was to remain a good while,
and it was there we should bid him adieu. We found this walk one of the
worst, the very worst, upon which we ever trod; full of wild
rose-bushes, tangled and matted with vines, burs, and thorns of all
sorts, and encumbered by thousands of pieces of driftwood, some decayed,
some sunk in the earth, while others were entangled with the innumerable
roots exposed by floods and rains. We saw nothing but a few Ravens. When
nearly half way, we heard the trampling of galloping horses, and loud
hallooings, which we found to proceed from the wagon of which we have
spoken, which, loaded with men, passed us at a speed one would have
thought impossible over such ground. Soon after we had a heavy shower of
rain, but reached the boat in good order. Harris and Sprague, who had
followed us, came afterwards. I was pretty hot, and rather tired. The
boat took on wood for half an hour after we arrived; then the captain
shook us all by the hand most heartily, and we bade him God speed. I
parted from him really with sorrow, for I have found him all I could
wish during the whole passage; and his position is no sinecure, to say
naught of the rabble under his control. All the wood-cutters who
remained walked off by the road; and we went back in the wagon over a
bad piece of ground--much easier, however, than returning on foot. As we
reached the prairies, we travelled faster, and passed by the late garden
of the fort, which had been abandoned on account of the thieving of the
men attached to the Opposition Company, at Fort Mortimer. Harris caught
a handsome snake, now in spirits. We saw Lazuli Finches and several
other sorts of small birds. Upon reaching the fort, from which many
great guns were fired as salutes to the steamer, which were loudly
returned, I was amused at the terror the firing occasioned to the squaws
and their children, who had arrived in great numbers the previous
evening; they howled, fell down on the earth, or ran in every direction.
All the dogs started off, equally frightened, and made for the distant
hills. Dinner not being ready, three of us took a walk, and saw a good
number of Tamias holes, many cacti of two sorts, and some plants
hitherto uncollected by us. We saw a few Arctic Ground Finches and two
Wolves. After dinner Mr. Culbertson told us that if a Wolf made its
appearance on the prairie near the fort, he would give it chase on
horseback, and bring it to us, alive or dead; and he was as good as his
word. It was so handsomely executed, that I will relate the whole
affair. When I saw the Wolf (a white one), it was about a quarter of a
mile off, alternately standing and trotting; the horses were about
one-half the distance off. A man was started to drive these in; and I
thought the coursers never would reach the fort, much less become
equipped so as to overhaul the Wolf. We were all standing on the
platform of the fort, with our heads only above the palisades; and I
was so fidgety that I ran down twice to tell the hunters that the Wolf
was making off. Mr. Culbertson, however, told me he would see it did not
make off; and in a few moments he rode out of the fort, gun in hand,
dressed only in shirt and breeches. He threw his cap off within a few
yards, and suddenly went off with the swiftness of a jockey bent on
winning a race. The Wolf trotted on, and ever and anon stopped to gaze
at the rider and the horse; till, finding out the meaning (too late,
alas! for him), he galloped off with all his might; but the horse was
too swift for the poor cur, as we saw the rider gaining ground rapidly.
Mr. Culbertson fired his gun off as a signal, I was told, that the Wolf
would be brought in; and the horse, one would think, must have been of
the same opinion, for although the Wolf had now reached the hills, and
turned into a small ravine, the moment it had entered it, the horse
dashed after, the sound of the gun came on the ear, the Wolf was picked
up by Mr. Culbertson without dismounting, hardly slackening his pace,
and thrown across the saddle. The rider returned as swiftly as he had
gone, wet through with a smart shower that had fallen meantime; and the
poor Wolf was placed at my disposal. The time taken from the start to
the return in the yard did not exceed twenty minutes, possibly something
less. Two other men who had started at the same time rode very swiftly
also, and skirted the hills to prevent the Wolf's escape; and one of
them brought in Mr. C.'s gun, which he had thrown on the ground as he
picked up the Wolf to place it on the saddle. The beast was not quite
dead when it arrived, and its jaws told of its dying agonies; it
scratched one of Mr. C.'s fingers sorely; but we are assured that such
things so often occur that nothing is thought of it.
And now a kind of sham Buffalo hunt was proposed, accompanied by a bet
of a suit of clothes, to be given to the rider who would load and fire
the greatest number of shots in a given distance. The horses were
mounted as another Wolf was seen trotting off towards the hills, and Mr.
Culbertson again told us he would bring it in. This time, however, he
was mistaken; the Wolf was too far off to be overtaken, and it reached
the hill-tops, made its way through a deep ravine full of large rocks,
and was then given up. Mr. Culbertson was seen coming down without his
quarry. He joined the riders, started with his gun empty, loaded in a
trice, and fired the first shot; then the three riders came on at full
speed, loading and firing first on one side, then on the other of the
horse, as if after Buffaloes. Mr. C. fired eleven times before he
reached the fort, and within less than half a mile's run; the others
fired once less, each. We were all delighted to see these feats. No one
was thrown off, though the bridles hung loose, and the horses were under
full gallop all the time. Mr. Culbertson's mare, which is of the full
Blackfoot Indian breed, is about five years old, and could not be bought
for four hundred dollars. I should like to see some of the best English
hunting gentlemen hunt in the like manner. We are assured that after
dusk, or as soon as the gates of the fort are shut, the Wolves come near
enough to be killed from the platform, as these beasts oftentimes come
to the trough where the hogs are fed daily. We have seen no less than
eight this day from the fort, moving as leisurely as if a hundred miles
off. A heavy shower put off running a race; but we are to have a regular
Buffalo hunt, where I must act only as a spectator; for, alas! I am now
too near seventy to run and load whilst going at full gallop. Two
gentlemen arrived this evening from the Crow Indian Nation; they crossed
to our side of the river, and were introduced at once. One is Mr.
Chouteau, son of Auguste Chouteau, and the other a Scotchman, Mr. James
Murray, at whose father's farm, on the Tweed, we all stopped on our
return from the Highlands of Scotland. They told us that the snow and
ice was yet three feet deep near the mountains, and an abundance over
the whole of the mountains themselves. They say they have made a good
collection of robes, but that Beavers are very scarce. This day has been
spent altogether in talking, sight-seeing, and enjoyment. Our room was
small, dark, and dirty, and crammed with our effects. Mr. Culbertson saw
this, and told me that to-morrow he would remove us to a larger,
quieter, and better one. I was glad to hear this, as it would have been
very difficult to draw, write, or work in; and yet it is the very room
where the Prince de Neuwied resided for two months, with his secretary
and bird-preserver. The evening was cloudy and cold; we had had several
showers of rain since our bath in the bushes this morning, and I felt
somewhat fatigued. Harris and I made our beds up; Squires fixed some
Buffalo robes, of which nine had been given us, on a long old bedstead,
never knowing it had been the couch of a foreign prince;[18] Bell and
Sprague settled themselves opposite to us on more Buffalo skins, and
night closed in. But although we had lain down, it was impossible for us
to sleep; for above us was a drunken man affected with a _goitre_, and
not only was his voice rough and loud, but his words were continuous.
His oaths, both in French and English, were better fitted for the Five
Points in New York, or St. Giles of London, than anywhere among
Christians. He roared, laughed like a maniac, and damned himself and the
whole creation. I thought that time would quiet him, but, no! for now
clarionets, fiddles, and a drum were heard in the dining-room, where
indeed they had been playing at different times during the afternoon,
and our friend above began swearing at this as if quite fresh. We had
retired for the night; but an invitation was sent us to join the party
in the dining-room. Squires was up in a moment, and returned to say that
a ball was on foot, and that "all the beauty and fashion" would be
skipping about in less than no time. There was no alternative; we all
got up, and in a short time were amid the _beau monde_ of these parts.
Several squaws, attired in their best, were present, with all the
guests, _engages_, clerks, etc. Mr. Culbertson played the fiddle very
fairly; Mr. Guepe the clarionet, and Mr. Chouteau the drum, as if
brought up in the army of the great Napoleon. Cotillions and reels were
danced with much energy and apparent enjoyment, and the company
dispersed about one o'clock. We retired for the second time, and now
occurred a dispute between the drunkard and another man; but,
notwithstanding this, I was so wearied that I fell asleep.
_June 15, Thursday._ We all rose late, as one might expect; the weather
was quite cool for the season, and it was cloudy besides. We did nothing
else than move our effects to an upstairs room. The Mackinaw boats
arrived at the fort about noon, and were unloaded in a precious short
time; and all hands being called forth, the empty boats themselves were
dragged to a ravine, turned over, and prepared for calking previous to
their next voyage up or down, as the case might be. The gentlemen from
these boats gave me a fine pair of Deer's horns; and to Mr. Culbertson a
young Gray Wolf, and also a young Badger, which they had brought in. It
snarled and snapped, and sometimes grunted not unlike a small pig, but
did not bite. It moved somewhat slowly, and its body looked flattish all
the time; the head has all the markings of an adult, though it is a
young of the present spring. Bell and Harris hunted a good while, but
procured only a Lazuli Finch and a few other birds. Bell skinned the
Wolf, and we put its hide in the barrel with the head of the Buffalo
cow, etc. I showed the plates of the quadrupeds to many persons, and I
hope with success, as they were pleased and promised me much. To-morrow
morning a man called Black Harris is to go off after Antelopes for me;
and the hunters for the men of the fort and themselves; and perhaps some
of the young men may go with one or both parties. I heard many stories
about Wolves; particularly I was interested in one told by Mr. Kipp, who
assured us he had caught upwards of one hundred with baited fish-hooks.
Many other tales were told us; but I shall not forget them, so will not
write them down here, but wait till hereafter. After shooting at a mark
with a bow made of Elk horn, Mr. Kipp presented it to me. We saw several
Wolves, but none close to the fort. Both the common Crow and Raven are
found here; Bell killed one of the former.
_June 16, Friday._ The weather was cool this morning, with the wind due
east. I drew the young Gray Wolf, and Sprague made an outline of it.
Bell, Provost, Alexis, and Black Harris went over the river to try to
procure Antelopes; Bell and Alexis returned to dinner without any game,
although they had seen dozens of the animals wanted, and also some
Common Deer. The two others, who travelled much farther, returned at
dusk with empty stomachs and a young fawn of the Common Deer. Harris and
I took a long walk after my drawing was well towards completion, and
shot a few birds. The Buffalo, old and young, are fond of rolling on the
ground in the manner of horses, and turn quite over; this is done not
only to clean themselves, but also to rub off the loose old coat of hair
and wool that hangs about their body like so many large, dirty rags.
Those about the fort are gentle, but will not allow a person to touch
their bodies, not even the young calves of the last spring. Our young
Badger is quite fond of lying on his back, and then sleeps. His general
appearance and gait remind me of certain species of Armadillo. There was
a good deal of talking and jarring about the fort; some five or six men
came from the Opposition Company, and would have been roughly handled
had they not cleared off at the beginning of trouble. Arrangements were
made for loading the Mackinaw barges, and it is intended that they shall
depart for St. Louis, leaving on Sunday morning. We shall all be glad
when these boats with their men are gone, as we are now full to the
brim. Harris has a new batch of patients, and enjoys the work of
physician.
_June 17, Saturday._ Warm and fair, with the river rising fast. The
young fawn was hung up, and I drew it. By dinner-time Sprague had well
prepared the Gray Wolf, and I put him to work at the fawn. Bell went
shooting, and brought five or six good birds. The song of the Lazuli
Finch so much resembles that of the Indigo Bird that it would be
difficult to distinguish them by the note alone. They keep indifferently
among the low bushes and high trees. He also brought a few specimens of
_Spermophilus hoodii_ of Richardson,[19] of which the measurements were
taken. Wolves often retreat into holes made by the sinking of the earth
near ravines, burrowing in different directions at the bottoms of these.
I sent Provost early this morning to the Opposition fort, to inquire
whether Mr. Cutting had written letters about us, and also to see a fine
Kit Fox, brought in one of their boats from the Yellowstone. Much has
been done in the way of loading the Mackinaw boats. Bell has skinned the
young Wolf, and Sprague will perhaps finish preparing the fawn. The
hunters who went out yesterday morning have returned, and brought back a
quantity of fresh Buffalo meat. Squires brought many fragments of a
petrified tree. No Antelopes were shot, and I feel uneasy on this score.
Provost returned and told me Mr. Cutting's men with the letters had not
arrived, but that they were expected hourly. The Kit Fox had been
suffocated to death by some dozens of bundles of Buffalo robes falling
on it, while attached to a ladder, and had been thrown out and eaten by
the Wolves or the dogs. This evening, quite late, I shot a fine large
Gray Wolf. I sincerely hope to see some Antelopes to-morrow, as well as
other animals.
_June 18, Sunday._ This day has been a beautiful, as well as a
prosperous one to us. At daylight Provost and Alexis went off hunting
across the river. Immediately after an early breakfast, Mr. Murray and
three Mackinaw boats started for St. Louis. After the boats were fairly
out of sight, and the six-pounders had been twice fired, and the great
flag floated in the stiff southwesterly breeze, four other hunters went
off over the river, and Squires was one of them. I took a walk with Mr.
Culbertson and Mr. Chardon, to look at some old, decaying, and simply
constructed coffins, placed on trees about ten feet above ground, for
the purpose of finding out in what manner, and when it would be best for
us to take away the skulls, some six or seven in number, all Assiniboin
Indians. It was decided that we would do so at dusk, or nearly at dark.
My two companions assured me that they never had walked so far from the
fort unarmed as on this occasion, and said that even a _single_ Indian
with a gun and a bow might have attacked us; but if several were
together, they would pay no attention to us, as that might be construed
to mean war. This is a good lesson, however, and one I shall not forget.
About ten o'clock Alexis came to me and said that he had killed two male
Antelopes, and Provost one Deer, and that he must have a cart to bring
the whole in. This was arranged in a few minutes; and Harris and I went
across the river on a ferry flat, taking with us a cart and a most
excellent mule. Alexis' wife went across also to gather gooseberries.
The cart being made ready, we mounted it, I sitting down, and Harris
standing up. We took an old abandoned road, filled with fallen timber
and bushes innumerable; but Alexis proved to be an excellent driver, and
the mule the most active and the strongest I ever saw. We jogged on
through thick and thin for about two miles, when we reached a prairie
covered with large bushes of Artemisia (called here "Herbe Sainte"), and
presently, cutting down a slope, came to where lay our Antelope, a young
male, and the skin of the Deer, while its carcass hung on a tree. These
were placed in the cart, and we proceeded across the prairie for the
other Antelope, which had been tied by the horns to a large bush of
Artemisia, being alive when Alexis left it; but it was now dead and
stiff. I looked at its eyes at once. This was a fine old male with its
coat half shed. I was sorry enough it was dead. We placed it by its
relation in the cart, jumped in, and off we went at a good round trot,
not returning to the road, but across the prairie and immediately under
the clay hills where the Antelope go after they have fed in the prairie
below from early dawn until about eight o'clock; there are of course
exceptions to the contrary. Part of the way we travelled between ponds
made by the melting of the snows, and having on them a few Ducks and a
Black Tern, all of which no doubt breed here. After we had passed the
last pond, we saw three Antelopes several hundred yards to the lee of
us; the moment they perceived us Alexis said they would be off; and so
they were, scampering towards the hills until out of sight. We now
entered the woods, and almost immediately Harris saw the head of a Deer
about fifty yards distant. Alexis, who had only a rifle, would have shot
him from the cart, had the mule stood still; but as this was not the
case, Alexis jumped down, took a long, deliberate aim, the gun went off,
and the Deer fell dead in its tracks. It proved to be a doe with very
large milk-bags, and doubtless her fawn or fawns were in the vicinity;
but Alexis could not find them in the dense bush. He and Harris dragged
her to the cart, where I stood holding the mule. We reached the ferry,
where the boat had awaited our return, placed the cart on board without
touching the game; and, on landing at the fort, the good mule pulled it
up the steep bank into the yard. We now had two Antelopes and two Deer
that had been killed before noon. Immediately after dinner, the head of
the old male was cut off, and I went to work outlining it; first small,
with the camera, and then by squares. Bell was engaged in skinning both
the bodies; but I felt vexed that he had carelessly suffered the Gray
Wolf to be thrown into the river. I spoke to him on the subject of never
losing a specimen till we were quite sure it would not be needed; and I
feel well assured he is so honest a man and so good a worker that what I
said will last for all time. While looking at the Deer shot this day,
Harris and I thought that their tails were very long, and that the
animals themselves were very much larger than those we have to the
eastward; and we all concluded to have more killed, and examine and
measure closely, as this one may be an exception. It was unfortunate we
did not speak of this an hour sooner, as two Deer had been killed on
this side the river by a hunter belonging to the fort; but Mr.
Culbertson assured me that we should have enough of them in a few days.
I am told that the Rocky Mountain Rams lost most of their young during
the hard frosts of the early spring; for, like those of the common
sheep, the lambs are born as early as the 1st of March, and hence their
comparative scarcity. Harris and Bell have shot a handsome White Wolf, a
female, from the ramparts; having both fired together, it is not known
which shot was the fatal one. Bell wounded another in the leg, as there
were several marauders about; but the rascal made off.
_June 19, Monday._ It began raining early this morning; by "early," I
mean fully two hours before daylight. The first news I heard was from
Mr. Chardon, who told me he had left a Wolf feeding out of the pig's
trough, which is immediately under the side of the fort. The next was
from Mr. Larpenteur,[20] who opens the gates when the bell rings at
sunrise, who told us he saw seven Wolves within thirty yards, or less,
of the fort. I have told him since, with Mr. Chardon's permission, to
call upon us before he opens these mighty portals, whenever he espies
Wolves from the gallery above, and I hope that to-morrow morning we may
shoot one or more of these bold marauders. Sprague has been drawing all
day, and I a good part of it; and it has been so chilly and cold that we
have had fires in several parts of the fort. Bell and Harris have gone
shooting this afternoon, and have not yet returned. Bell cleaned the
Wolf shot last night, and the two Antelopes; old Provost boiled brine,
and the whole of them are now in pickle. There are some notions that two
kinds of Deer are found hereabouts, one quite small, the other quite
large; but of this I have no proof at present. The weather was too bad
for Alexis to go hunting. Young Mr. McKenzie and a companion went across
the river, but returned soon afterwards, having seen nothing but one
Grizzly Bear. The water is either at a stand, or falling a
little.--_Later_. Harris and Bell have returned, and, to my delight and
utter astonishment, have brought two new birds: one a Lark,[21] small
and beautiful; the other like our common Golden-winged Woodpecker, but
with a red mark instead of a black one along the lower mandible running
backward.[22] I am quite amazed at the differences of opinion
respecting the shedding--or not shedding--of the horns of the
Antelope;[23] and this must be looked to with the greatest severity, for
if these animals _do_ shed their horns, they are no longer _Antelopes_.
We are about having quite a ball in honor of Mr. Chardon, who leaves
shortly for the Blackfoot Fort.
_June 20, Tuesday._ It rained nearly all night; and though the ball was
given, I saw nothing of it, and heard but little, for I went to bed and
to sleep. Sprague finished the drawing of the old male Antelope, and I
mine, taking besides the measurements, etc., which I give here.... Bell
has skinned the head and put it in pickle. The weather was bad, yet old
Provost, Alexis, and Mr. Bonaventure, a good hunter and a first-rate
shot, went over the river to hunt. They returned, however, without
anything, though they saw three or four Deer, and a Wolf almost black,
with very long hair, which Provost followed for more than a mile, but
uselessly, as the rascal outwitted him after all. Harris and Bell are
gone too, and I hope they will bring some more specimens of Sprague's
Lark and the new Golden-winged Woodpecker.
To fill the time on this dreary day, I asked Mr. Chardon to come up to
our room and give us an account of the small-pox among the Indians,
especially among the Mandans and Riccarees, and he related as follows:
Early in the month of July, 1837, the steamer "Assiniboin" arrived at
Fort Clark with many cases of small-pox on board. Mr. Chardon, having a
young son on the boat, went thirty miles to meet her, and took his son
away. The pestilence, however, had many victims on the steamboat, and
seemed destined to find many more among the helpless tribes of the
wilderness. An Indian stole the blanket of one of the steamboat's
watchmen (who lay at the point of death, if not already dead), wrapped
himself in it, and carried it off, unaware of the disease that was to
cost him his life, and that of many of his tribe--thousands, indeed. Mr.
Chardon offered a reward immediately for the return of the blanket, as
well as a new one in its stead, and promised that no punishment should
be inflicted. But the robber was a great chief; through shame, or some
other motive, he never came forward, and, before many days, was a
corpse. Most of the Riccarees and Mandans were some eighty miles in the
prairies, hunting Buffaloes and saving meat for the winter. Mr. Chardon
despatched an express to acquaint them all of the awful calamity,
enjoining them to keep far off, for that death would await them in their
villages. They sent word in return, that their corn was suffering for
want of work, that they were not afraid, and would return; the danger to
them, poor things, seemed fabulous, and doubtless they thought other
reasons existed, for which this was an excuse. Mr. Chardon sent the man
back again, and told them their crop of corn was nothing compared to
their lives; but Indians are Indians, and, in spite of all entreaties,
they moved _en masse_, to confront the awful catastrophe that was about
to follow. When they reached the villages, they thought the whites had
saved the Riccarees, and put the plague on them alone (they were
Mandans). Moreover, they thought, and said, that the whites had a
preventive medicine, which the whites would not give them. Again and
again it was explained to them that this was not the case, but all to no
purpose; the small-pox had taken such a hold upon the poor Indians, and
in such malignant form, that they died oftentimes within the rising and
setting of a day's sun. They died by hundreds daily; their bodies were
thrown down beneath the high bluff, and soon produced a stench beyond
description. Men shot their wives and children, and afterwards, driving
several balls in their guns, would place the muzzle in their mouths,
and, touching the trigger with their feet, blow their brains out. About
this time Mr. Chardon was informed that one of the young Mandan chiefs
was bent on shooting him, believing he had brought the pestilence upon
the Indians. One of Mr. Chardon's clerks heard of this plot, and begged
him to remain in the store; at first Mr. Chardon did not place any faith
in the tale, but later was compelled to do so, and followed his clerk's
advice. The young chief, a short time afterwards, fell a victim to this
fearful malady; but probably others would have taken his life had it not
been for one of those strange incidents which come, we know not why, nor
can we explain them. A number of the chiefs came that day to confer with
Mr. Chardon, and while they were talking angrily with him, he sitting
with his arms on a table between them, a Dove, being pursued by a Hawk,
flew in through the open door, and sat panting and worn out on Mr.
Chardon's arm for more than a minute, when it flew off. The Indians, who
were quite numerous, clustered about him, and asked him what the bird
came to him for? After a moment's thought, he told them that the bird
had been sent by the white men, his friends, to see if it was true that
the Mandans had killed him, and that it must return with the answer as
soon as possible; he added he had told the Dove to say that the Mandans
were his friends, and would never kill him, but would do all they could
for him. The superstitious redmen believed this story implicitly;
thenceforth they looked on Mr. Chardon as one of the Great Spirit's
sons, and believed he alone could help them. Little, however, could be
done; the small-pox continued its fearful ravages, and the Indians grew
fewer and fewer day by day. For a long time the Riccarees did not
suffer; the Mandans became more and more astounded at this, and became
exasperated against both whites and Indians. The disease was of the most
virulent type, so that within a few hours after death the bodies were a
mass of rottenness. Men killed themselves, to die a nobler death than
that brought by the dreaded plague. One young warrior sent his wife to
dig his grave; and she went, of course, for no Indian woman dares
disobey her lord. The grave was dug, and the warrior, dressed in his
most superb apparel, with lance and shield in hand, walked towards it
singing his own death song, and, finding the grave finished, threw down
all his garments and arms, and leaped into it, drawing his knife as he
did so, and cutting his body almost asunder. This done, the earth was
thrown over him, the grave filled up, and the woman returned to her
lodge to live with her children, perhaps only another day. A great
chief, who had been a constant friend to the whites, having caught the
pest, and being almost at the last extremity, dressed himself in his
fineries, mounted his war-steed, and, fevered and in agony, rode among
the villages, speaking against the whites, urging the young warriors to
charge upon them and destroy them all. The harangue over, he went home,
and died not many hours afterward. The exposure and exertion brought on
great pains, and one of the men from the fort went to him with something
that gave him temporary relief; before he died, he acknowledged his
error in trying to create trouble between the whites and Indians, and it
was his wish to be buried in front of the gate of the fort, with all his
trophies around and above his body; the promise was given him that this
should be done, and he died in the belief that the white man, as he trod
on his grave, would see that he was humbled before him, and would
forgive him. Two young men, just sickening with the disease, began to
talk of the dreadful death that awaited them, and resolved not to wait
for the natural close of the malady, the effects of which they had seen
among their friends and relatives. One said the knife was the surest and
swiftest weapon to carry into effect their proposed self-destruction;
the other contended that placing an arrow in the throat and forcing it
into the lungs was preferable. After a long debate they calmly rose, and
each adopted his own method; in an instant the knife was driven into the
heart of one, the arrow into the throat of the other, and they fell dead
almost at the same instant. Another story was of an extremely handsome
and powerful Indian who lost an only son, a beautiful boy, upon whom all
his hopes and affections were placed. The loss proved too much for him;
he called his wife, and, after telling her what a faithful husband he
had been, said to her, "Why should we live? all we cared for is taken
from us, and why not at once join our child in the land of the Great
Spirit?" She consented; in an instant he shot her dead on the spot,
reloaded his gun, put the muzzle in his mouth, touched the trigger, and
fell back dead. On the same day another curious incident occurred; a
young man, covered with the eruption, and apparently on the eve of
death, managed to get to a deep puddle of mire or mud, threw himself in
it, and rolled over and over as a Buffalo is wont to do. The sun was
scorching hot, and the poor fellow got out of the mire covered with a
coating of clay fully half an inch thick and laid himself down; the
sun's heat soon dried the clay, so as to render it like unburnt bricks,
and as he walked or crawled along towards the village, the mud drying
and falling from him, taking the skin with it, and leaving the flesh raw
and bleeding, he was in agony, and besought those who passed to kill
him; but, strange to say, after enduring tortures, the fever left him,
he recovered, and is still living, though badly scarred. Many ran to the
river, in the delirium of the burning fever, plunged in the stream, and
rose no more. The whites in the fort, as well as the Riccarees, took the
disease after all. The Indians, with few exceptions, died, and three of
the whites. The latter had no food in the way of bread, flour, sugar, or
coffee, and they had to go stealthily by night to steal small pumpkins,
about the size of a man's fist, to subsist upon--and this amid a large
number of wild, raving, mad Indians, who swore revenge against them all
the while. This is a mere sketch of the terrible scourge which virtually
annihilated two powerful tribes of Indians, and of the trials of the
traders attached to the Fur Companies on these wild prairies, and I can
tell you of many more equally strange. The mortality, as taken down by
Major Mitchell, was estimated by that gentleman at 150,000 Indians,
including those from the tribes of the Riccarees, Mandans, Sioux, and
Blackfeet. The small-pox was in the very fort from which I am now
writing this account, and its ravages here were as awful as elsewhere.
Mr. Chardon had the disease, and was left for dead; but one of his
clerks saw signs of life, and forced him to drink a quantity of hot
whiskey mixed with water and nutmeg; he fell into a sound sleep, and his
recovery began from that hour. He says that with him the pains began in
the small of the back, and on the back part of his head, and were
intense. He concluded by assuring us all that the small-pox had never
been known in the civilized world, as it had been among the poor Mandans
and other Indians. Only _twenty-seven_ Mandans were left to tell the
tale; they have now augmented to ten or twelve lodges in the six years
that have nearly elapsed since the pestilence.[24]
Harris and Bell came back bringing several small birds, among which
three or four proved to be a Blackbird[25] nearly allied to the Rusty
Grakle, but with evidently a much shorter and straighter bill. Its
measurements will be given, of course. The weather is still lowering and
cold, and it rains at intervals. We are now out of specimens of
quadrupeds to draw from. Our gentlemen seem to remember the ball of last
night, and I doubt not will go early to bed, as I shall.
_June 21, Wednesday._ Cloudy and lowering weather; however, Provost went
off over the river, before daylight, and shot a Deer, of what kind we do
not know; he returned about noon, very hungry. The mud was dreadful in
the bottoms. Bell and young McKenzie went off after breakfast, but
brought nothing but a Sharp-tailed Grouse, though McKenzie shot two
Wolves. The one Harris shot last night proved to be an old female not
worth keeping; her companions had seamed her jaws, for in this part of
the world Wolves feed upon Wolves, and no mistake. This evening I hauled
the beast under the ramparts, cut her body open, and had a stake driven
quite fast through it, to hold it as a bait. Harris and Bell are this
moment on the lookout for the rascals. Wolves here not only eat their
own kind, but are the most mischievous animals in the country; they eat
the young Buffalo calves, the young Antelopes, and the young of the
Bighorn on all occasions, besides Hares of different sorts, etc.
Buffaloes never scrape the snow with their feet, but with their noses,
notwithstanding all that has been said to the contrary, even by Mr.
Catlin. Bell brought home the hind parts, the head, and one forefoot of
a new species of small Hare.[26]
We are told these Hares are very plentiful, and yet this is the first
specimen we have seen, and sorry am I that it amounts to no specimen at
all. Harris and I walked several miles, but killed nothing; we found the
nest of a Sparrow-hawk, and Harris, assisted by my shoulders, reached
the nest, and drew out two eggs. Sprague went across the hills eastward,
and was fortunate enough to shoot a superb specimen of the Arctic
Bluebird. This evening, Mr. Culbertson having told me the Rabbits, such
as Bell had brought, were plentiful on the road to the steamboat
landing, Harris, Bell, and I walked there; but although we were very
cautious, we saw none, and only procured a Black-headed Grosbeak, which
was shot whilst singing delightfully. To-morrow morning Mr. Chardon
leaves us in the keel-boat for the Blackfoot Fort, and Mr. Kipp will
leave for the Crows early next week.
_June 22, Thursday._ We rose very late this morning, with the exception
of Provost, who went out shooting quite early; but he saw nothing fit
for his rifle. All was bustle after breakfast, as Mr. Chardon's boat was
loading, the rigging being put in order, the men moving their effects,
etc., and a number of squaws, the wives of the men, were moving to and
fro for hours before the ultimate departure of the boat, which is called
the "Bee." The cargo being arranged, thirty men went on board, including
the commander, friend Chardon, thirteen squaws, and a number of
children, all more or less half-breeds. The flag of Fort Union was
hoisted, the four-pounder run out of the front gate, and by eleven
o'clock all was ready. The keel-boat had a brass swivel on her bows, and
fired first, then off went the larger gun, and many an Antelope and Deer
were doubtless frightened at the report that echoed through the hills
far and near. We bid adieu to our good friend Chardon; and his numerous
and willing crew, taking the cordelle to their shoulders, moved the boat
against a strong current in good style. Harris and Bell had gone
shooting and returned with several birds, among which was a female
Red-patched Woodpecker,[27] and a Lazuli Finch. Dinner over, I went off
with young McKenzie after Hares; found none, but started a Grizzly Bear
from her lair. Owen McKenzie followed the Bear and I continued after
Hares; he saw no more of Bruin, and I not a Hare, and we both returned
to the fort after a tramp of three hours. As I was walking over the
prairie, I found an Indian's skull (an Assiniboin) and put it in my game
pouch. Provost made a whistle to imitate the noise made by the fawns at
this season, which is used to great advantage to decoy the female Deer;
shortly afterward Mr. Bonaventure returned, and a cart was sent off at
once to bring in a doe which he had killed below. This species of Deer
is much larger than the one we have in Virginia, but perhaps no more so
than those in Maine; and as yet we cannot tell whether it may, or may
not, prove a distinct species. We took all its measurements, and Bell
and Provost are now skinning it. Its gross weight is 140 lbs., which I
think is heavier than any doe I have seen before. The animal is very
poor and evidently has fawns in the woods. The little new Lark that I
have named after Sprague has almost all the habits of the Skylark of
Europe. Whilst looking anxiously after it, on the ground where we
supposed it to be singing, we discovered it was high over our heads, and
that sometimes it went too high for us to see it at all. We have not yet
been able to discover its nest. Bell is of opinion that the Red-collared
Ground Finch[28] has its nest in the deserted holes of the Ground
Squirrel, and we intend to investigate this. He also believes that
Say's Flycatcher builds in rocky caverns or fissures, as he found the
nest of a bird in some such place, after having wounded one of this
species, which retired into the fissures of the rock, which he examined
in pursuit of the wounded bird. The nest had no eggs; we are going to
pay it a visit. Bell was busy most of the day skinning birds, and
Sprague drew a beautiful plant. I found a number of wild roses in bloom,
quite sweet-scented, though single, and of a very pale rose-color.
_June 23, Friday._ We have had a fine, warm day. The hunters of
Buffaloes started before daylight, and Squires accompanied them; they
are not expected back till sometime to-morrow. Provost went across the
river with them, and with the assistance of his bleating whistle,
brought several does round him, and a good many Wolves. He killed two
does, drew them to a tree, and hung his coat near them while he returned
for help to bring them to the fort. The hunters have a belief that a
garment hung near game freshly killed will keep the Wolves at bay for a
time; but there are exceptions to all rules, as when he returned with
the cart, a dozen hungry rascals of Wolves had completely devoured one
doe and all but one ham of the other; this he brought to the fort. The
does at this season, on hearing the "bleat," run to the spot, supposing,
no doubt, that the Wolves have attacked their fawns, and in rushing to
the rescue, run towards the hunter, who despatches them without much
trouble, unless the woods are thickly overgrown with bushes and brush,
when more difficulty is experienced in seeing them, although one may
hear them close by; but it is a cruel, deceitful, and unsportsmanlike
method, of which I can never avail myself, and which I try to
discountenance. Bell was busy all day with skins, and Sprague with
flowers, which he delineates finely. Mr. Kipp presented me with a
complete dress of a Blackfoot warrior, ornamented with many tufts of
Indian hair from scalps, and also with a saddle. After dinner, Harris,
who felt poorly all morning, was better, and we went to pay a visit at
the Opposition fort. We started in a wagon with an old horse called
Peter, which stands fire like a stump. In going, we found we could
approach the birds with comparative ease, and we had the good fortune to
shoot three of the new Larks. I killed two, and Harris one. When this
species starts from the ground, they fly in a succession of undulations,
which renders aim at them quite difficult; after this, and in the same
manner, they elevate themselves to some considerable height, as if about
to sing, and presently pitch towards the ground, where they run
prettily, and at times stand still and quite erect for a few minutes; we
hope to discover their nests soon. Young Meadow Larks, Red-shafted
Woodpeckers, and the Red-cheeked ditto,[29] are abundant. We reached
Fort Mortimer in due time; passed first between several sulky,
half-starved looking Indians, and came to the gate, where we were
received by the "bourgeois,"[30] a young man by the name of Collins,
from Hopkinsville, Ky. We found the place in a most miserable condition,
and about to be carried away by the falling in of the banks on account
of the great rise of water in the Yellowstone, that has actually dammed
the Missouri. The current ran directly across, and the banks gave way at
such a rate that the men had been obliged already to tear up the front
of the fort and remove it to the rear. To-morrow they are to remove the
houses themselves, should they stand the coming night, which appeared to
me somewhat dubious. We saw a large athletic man who has crossed the
mountains twice to the Pacific; he is a Philadelphian, named Wallis, who
had been a cook at Fort Union four years, but who had finally deserted,
lived for a time with the Crows, and then joined the Opposition. These
persons were very polite to us, and invited us to remain and take supper
with them; but as I knew they were short of provisions, I would not
impose myself upon them, and so, with thanks for their hospitality, we
excused ourselves and returned to Fort Union. As we were in search of
birds, we saw a small, whitish-colored Wolf trotting across the prairie,
which hereabouts is very extensive and looks well, though the soil is
poor. We put Peter to a trot and gained on the Wolf, which did not see
us until we were about one hundred yards off; he stopped suddenly, and
then went off at a canter. Harris gave the whip to Peter, and off we
went, evidently gaining rapidly on the beast, when it saw an Indian in
its road; taking fright, it dashed to one side, and was soon lost in a
ravine. We congratulated ourselves, on reaching the fort, that we had
such good fortune as to be able to sup and sleep here, instead of at
Fort Mortimer. Bell had taken a walk and brought in a few birds. The
prairie is covered with cacti, and Harris and I suffered by them; my
feet were badly pricked by the thorns, which penetrated my boots at the
junction of the soles with the upper leathers. I have to-day heard
several strange stories about Grizzly Bears, all of which I must have
corroborated before I fully accept them. The Otters and Musk-rats of
this part of the country are smaller than in the States; the first is
the worst enemy that the Beaver has.
_June 24, Saturday._ Bell killed a small Wolf last night, and Harris
wounded another. This morning Provost started at daylight, and Bell
followed him; but they returned without game. After breakfast Harris
went off on horseback, and brought in a Sharp-tailed Grouse. He saw only
one Deer, species not identified. Sprague and I went off last, but
brought in nothing new. This afternoon I thought would be a fair
opportunity to examine the manners of Sprague's Lark on the wing. Bell
drove Peter for me, and I killed four Larks; we then watched the flight
of several. The male rises by constant undulations to a great height,
say one hundred yards or more; and whilst singing its sweet-sounding
notes, beats its wings, poised in the air like a Hawk, without rising at
this time; after which, and after each burst of singing, it sails in
divers directions, forming three quarters of a circle or thereabouts,
then rises again, and again sings; the intervals between the singing are
longer than those which the song occupies, and at times the bird remains
so long in the air as to render it quite fatiguing to follow it with the
eye. Sprague thought one he watched yesterday remained in the air about
one hour. Bell and Harris watched one for more than half an hour, and
this afternoon I gazed upon one, whilst Bell timed it, for thirty-six
minutes. We continued on to Fort Mortimer to see its condition, were
received as kindly as yesterday, and saw the same persons. It was four
o'clock, and the men were all at dinner, having been obliged to wait
until this time because they had no meat in the fort, and their hunters
had returned only one hour and a half before. We found that the river
had fallen about fourteen inches since last evening, and the men would
not remove for the present. On our way homeward Bell shot a fifth Lark,
and when we reached the ravine I cut out of a tree-stump the nest of an
Arctic Bluebird, with six eggs in it, of almost the same size and color
as those of the common Bluebird. Sprague had brought a female of his
Lark, and her nest containing five eggs; the measurements of these two
species I will write out to-morrow. Our Buffalo hunters are not yet
returned, and I think that Squires will feel pretty well fatigued when
he reaches the fort. Mr. Culbertson presented me with a pair of
stirrups, and a most splendid Blackfoot crupper for my saddle. The day
has been warm and clear. We caught seven catfish at the river near the
fort, and most excellent eating they are, though quite small when
compared with the monsters of this species on the Missouri below.
_June 25, Sunday._ This day has been warm and the wind high, at first
from the south, but this afternoon from the north. Little or nothing has
been done in the way of procuring birds or game, except that Harris and
Mr. Denig brought in several Arkansas Flycatchers. Not a word from the
hunters, and therefore they must have gone far before they met
Buffaloes. A few more catfish have been caught, and they are truly
excellent.
_June 26, Monday._ The hunters returned this afternoon about three
o'clock; _i. e._, Squires and McKenzie; but the carts did not reach the
fort till after I had gone to bed. They have killed three Antelopes,
three bull Buffaloes, and one Townsend's Hare, but the last was lost
through carelessness, and I am sorry for it. The men had eaten one of
the Antelopes, and the two others are fine males; Bell skinned one, and
saved the head and the fore-legs of the other. One of them had the tips
of the horns as much crooked inwardly (backwards) as the horns of the
European Chamois usually are. This afternoon early Provost brought in a
Deer of the large kind, and this also was skinned. After this Harris and
Bell went off and brought in several Lazuli Finches, and a black Prairie
Lark Finch of the species brought from the Columbia by Townsend and
Nuttall. We caught several catfish and a very curious sturgeon, of which
Sprague took an outline with the camera, and I here give the
measurements.... It had run on the shore, and was caught by one of the
men. I made a bargain this morning with the hunter Bonaventure Le Brun
to procure me ten Bighorns, at $10.00 apiece, or the same price for any
number he may get. Mr. Culbertson lent him old Peter, the horse, and I
wrote a _petit billet_ to Mr. John Collins, to ask him to have them
ferried across the river, as our boat was away on a wood-cutting
expedition. As Le Brun did not return, of course he was taken across,
and may, perhaps, come back this evening, or early to-morrow morning,
with something worth having. At this moment Bell has shot a Wolf from
the ramparts, and sadly crippled another, but it made off somehow.
_June 27, Tuesday._ This morning was quite cool, and the wind from the
north. After breakfast Bell and Owen McKenzie went off on horseback on
this side of the river, to see how far off the Buffaloes are, and they
may probably bring home some game. Sprague and I have been drawing all
day yesterday and most of to-day. Provost has been making whistles to
call the Deer; later he, Harris, and I, walked to the hills to procure
the black root plant which is said to be the best antidote for the bite
of the rattlesnake. We found the root and dug one up, but the plant is
not yet in bloom. The leaves are long and narrow, and the flowers are
said to resemble the dwarf sunflower. Harris shot two of what he calls
the Small Shore Lark, male and female; but beyond the size being a
little smaller than those found at Labrador, I cannot discover any
specific difference. From the top of the hills we saw a grand panorama
of a most extensive wilderness, with Fort Union beneath us and far away,
as well as the Yellowstone River, and the lake across the river. The
hills across the Missouri appeared quite low, and we could see the high
prairie beyond, forming the background. Bell and McKenzie returned,
having shot a Wolf in a curious manner. On reaching the top of a hill
they found themselves close to the Wolf. Bell's horse ran quite past it,
but young McKenzie shot and broke one fore-leg, and it fell. Bell then
gave his horse to McKenzie, jumped off, ran to the Wolf, and took hold
of it by the tail, pulling it towards the horses; but it got up and ran
rapidly. Bell fired two shots in its back with a pistol without stopping
it, then he ran as fast as he could, shot it in the side, and it fell.
Bell says its tail was longer than usual, but it was not measured, and
the Wolf was left on the prairie, as they had no means of bringing it
in. They saw an Antelope, some Magpies, and a Swift Fox, but no
Buffaloes, though they were fifteen miles from the fort. They ran a
Long-tailed Deer, and describe its movements precisely as do Lewis and
Clark.[31] Between every three or four short leaps came the long leap of
fully twenty-five feet, if not more. The Kit or Swift Fox which they saw
stood by a bunch of wormwood, and whilst looking at the hunters, was
seen to brush off the flies with his paws.
I am now going to take this book to Lewis Squires and ask him to write
in it his account of the Buffalo hunt.
(The following is in Mr. Squires' handwriting:)
"By Mr. Audubon's desire I will relate the adventures that befell me in
my first Buffalo hunt, and I am in hopes that among the rubbish a
trifle, at least, may be obtained which may be of use or interest to
him. On the morning of Friday, the 23d, before daylight, I was up, and
in a short time young McKenzie made his appearance. A few minutes
sufficed to saddle our horses, and be in readiness for our contemplated
hunt. We were accompanied by Mr. Bonaventure the younger, one of the
hunters of the fort, and two carts to bring in whatever kind of meat
might be procured. We were ferried across the river in a flatboat, and
thence took our departure for the Buffalo country. We passed through a
wooded bottom for about one mile, and then over a level prairie for
about one mile and a half, when we commenced the ascent of the bluffs
that bound the western side of the Missouri valley; our course then lay
over an undulating prairie, quite rough, and steep hills with small
ravines between, and over dry beds of streams that are made by the
spring and fall freshets. Occasionally we were favored with a level
prairie never exceeding two miles in extent. When the carts overtook us,
we exchanged our horses for them, and sat on Buffalo robes on the
bottom, our horses following on behind us. As we neared the place where
the Buffaloes had been killed on the previous hunt, Bonaventure rode
alone to the top of a hill to discover, if possible, their whereabouts;
but to our disappointment nothing living was to be seen. We continued on
our way watching closely, ahead, right and left. Three o'clock came and
as yet nothing had been killed; as none of us had eaten anything since
the night before, our appetites admonished us that it was time to pay
attention to them. McKenzie and Bonaventure began to look about for
Antelopes; but before any were 'comeatable,' I fell asleep, and was
awakened by the report of a gun. Before we, in the carts, arrived at the
spot from whence this report proceeded, the hunters had killed, skinned,
and nearly cleaned the game, which was a fine male Antelope. I regretted
exceedingly I was not awake when it was killed, as I might have saved
the skin for Mr. Audubon, as well as the head, but I was too late. It
was now about five o'clock, and one may well imagine I was _somewhat_
hungry. Owen McKenzie commenced eating the raw liver, and offered me a
piece. What others can eat, I felt assured I could at least taste. I
accordingly took it and ate quite a piece of it; to my utter
astonishment, I found it not only palatable but very good; this
experience goes far to convince me that our prejudices make things
appear more disgusting than fact proves them to be. Our Antelope cut up
and in the cart, we proceeded on our 'winding way,' and scarcely had we
left the spot where the entrails of the animal remained, before the
Wolves and Ravens commenced coming from all quarters, and from places
where a minute before there was not a sign of one. We had not proceeded
three hundred yards at the utmost, before eight Wolves were about the
spot, and others approaching. On our way, both going and returning, we
saw a cactus of a conical shape, having a light straw-colored, double
flower, differing materially from the flower of the flat cactus, which
is quite common; had I had any means of bringing one in, I would most
gladly have done so, but I could not depend on the carts, and as they
are rather unpleasant companions, I preferred awaiting another
opportunity, which I hope may come in a few days. We shot a young of
Townsend's Hare, about seven or eight steps from us, with about a dozen
shot; I took good care of it until I left the cart on my return to the
fort, but when the carts arrived it had carelessly been lost. This I
regretted very much, as Mr. Audubon wanted it. It was nearly sunset when
Bonaventure discovered a Buffalo bull, so we concluded to encamp for the
night, and run the Buffaloes in the morning. We accordingly selected a
spot near a pond of water, which in spring and fall is quite a large
lake, and near which there was abundance of good pasture; our horses
were soon unsaddled and hoppled, a good fire blazing, and some of the
Antelope meat roasting on sticks before it. As soon as a bit was done,
we commenced operations, and it was soon gone 'the way of all flesh.' I
never before ate meat without salt or pepper, and until then never fully
appreciated these two _luxuries_, as they now seemed, nor can any one,
until deprived of them, and seated on a prairie as we were, or in some
similar situation. On the opposite side of the lake we saw a Grizzly
Bear, but he was unapproachable. After smoking our pipes we rolled
ourselves in our robes, with our saddles for pillows, and were soon lost
in a sound, sweet sleep. During the night I was awakened by a crunching
sound; the fire had died down, and I sat up and looking about perceived
a Wolf quietly feeding on the remains of our supper. One of the men
awoke at the same time and fired at the Wolf, but without effect, and
the fellow fled; we neither saw nor heard more of him during the night.
By daylight we were all up, and as our horses had not wandered far, it
was the work of a few minutes to catch and saddle them. We rode three or
four miles before we discovered anything, but at last saw a group of
three Buffaloes some miles from us. We pushed on, and soon neared them;
before arriving at their feeding-ground, we saw, scattered about,
immense quantities of pumice-stone, in detached pieces of all sizes;
several of the hills appeared to be composed wholly of it. As we
approached within two hundred yards of the Buffaloes they started, and
away went the hunters after them. My first intention of being merely a
looker-on continued up to this moment, but it was impossible to resist
following; almost unconsciously I commenced urging my horse after them,
and was soon rushing up hills and through ravines; but my horse gave
out, and disappointment and anger followed, as McKenzie and Bonaventure
succeeded in killing two, and wounding a third, which escaped. As soon
as they had finished them, they commenced skinning and cutting up one,
which was soon in the cart, the offal and useless meat being left on the
ground. Again the Wolves made their appearance as we were leaving; they
seemed shy, but Owen McKenzie succeeded in killing one, which was old
and useless. The other Buffalo was soon skinned and in the cart. In the
meantime McKenzie and I started on horseback for water. The man who had
charge of the keg had let it all run out, and most fortunately none of
us had wanted water until now. We rode to a pond, the water of which was
very salt and warm, but we had to drink this or none; we did so, filled
our flasks for the rest of the party, and a few minutes afterward
rejoined them. We started again for more meat to complete our load. I
observed, as we approached the Buffaloes, that they stood gazing at us
with their heads erect, lashing their sides with their tails; as soon as
they discovered what we were at, with the quickness of thought they
wheeled, and with the most surprising speed, for an animal apparently so
clumsy and awkward, flew before us. I could hardly imagine that these
enormous animals could move so quickly, or realize that their speed was
as great as it proved to be; and I doubt if in this country one horse in
ten can be found that will keep up with them. We rode five or six miles
before we discovered any more. At last we saw a single bull, and while
approaching him we started two others; slowly we wended our way towards
them until within a hundred yards, when away they went. I had now begun
to enter into the spirit of the chase, and off I started, full speed,
down a rough hill in swift pursuit; at the bottom of the hill was a
ditch about eight feet wide; the horse cleared this safely. I continued,
leading the others by some distance, and rapidly approaching the
Buffaloes. At this prospect of success my feelings can better be
imagined than described. I kept the lead of the others till within
thirty or forty yards of the Buffaloes, when I began making preparations
to fire as soon as I was sufficiently near; imagine, if possible, my
disappointment when I discovered that now, when all my hopes of success
were raised to the highest pitch, I was fated to meet a reverse as
mortifying as success would have been gratifying. My horse failed, and
slackened his pace, despite every effort of mine to urge him on; the
other hunters rushed by me at full speed, and my horse stopped
altogether. I saw the others fire; the animal swerved a little, but
still kept on. After breathing my horse a while, I succeeded in starting
him up again, followed after them, and came up in time to fire one shot
ere the animal was brought down. I think that I never saw an eye so
ferocious in expression as that of the wounded Buffalo; rolling wildly
in its socket, inflamed as the eye was, it had the most frightful
appearance that can be imagined; and in fact, the picture presented by
the Buffalo as a whole is quite beyond my powers of description. The
fierce eyes, blood streaming from his sides, mouth, and nostrils, he was
the wildest, most unearthly-looking thing it ever fell to my lot to gaze
upon. His sufferings were short; he was soon cut up and placed in the
cart, and we retraced our steps homeward. Whilst proceeding towards our
camping-ground for the night, two Antelopes were killed, and placed on
our carts. Whenever we approached these animals they were very curious
to see what we were; they would run, first to the right, and then to the
left, then suddenly run straight towards us until within gun-shot, or
nearly so. The horse attracted their attention more than the rider, and
if a slight elevation or bush was between us, they were easily killed.
As soon as their curiosity was gratified they would turn and run, but it
was not difficult to shoot before this occurred. When they turned they
would fly over the prairie for about a mile, when they would again stop
and look at us. During the day we suffered very much for want of water,
and drank anything that had the appearance of it, and most of the water,
in fact all of it, was either impregnated with salt, sulphur, or
magnesia--most disgusting stuff at any other time, but drinkable now.
The worst of all was some rain-water that we were obliged to drink,
first placing our handkerchiefs over the cup to strain it, and keep the
worms out of our mouths. I drank it, and right glad was I to get even
this. We rode about five miles to where we encamped for the night, near
a little pond of water. In a few minutes we had a good fire of Buffalo
dung to drive away mosquitoes that were in clouds about us. The water
had taken away our appetites completely, and we went to bed without
eating any supper. Our horses and beds were arranged as on the previous
evening. McKenzie and I intended starting for the fort early in the
morning. We saw a great many Magpies, Curlews, Plovers, Doves, and
numbers of Antelopes. About daylight I awoke and roused McKenzie; a man
had gone for the horses, but after a search of two hours returned
without finding them; all the party now went off except one man and
myself, and all returned without success except Bonaventure, who found
an old horse that had been lost since April last. He was despatched on
this to the fort to get other horses, as we had concluded that ours were
either lost or stolen. As soon as he had gone, one of the men started
again in search of the runaways, and in a short time returned with them.
McKenzie and I soon rode off. We saw two Grizzly Bears at the lake
again. Our homeward road we made much shorter by cutting off several
turns; we overtook Bonaventure about four miles from our encampment, and
passed him. We rode forty miles to the fort in a trifle over six hours.
We had travelled in all about one hundred and twenty miles. Bonaventure
arrived two hours after we did, and the carts came in the evening."
_Wednesday, June 28._ This is an account of Squires' Buffalo hunt, his
first one, which he has kindly written in my journal and which I hope
some day to publish. This morning was very cloudy, and we had some rain,
but from ten o'clock until this moment the weather has been beautiful.
Harris shot a handsome though rather small Wolf; I have made a large
drawing, and Sprague a fine diminished one, of the rascal. The first
news we had this morning was that the ferry flat had been stolen last
night, probably by the deserters from the fort who have had the wish to
return to St. Louis. Some person outside of the fort threw a large stone
at an Indian woman, and her husband fired in the dark, but no one could
be found on searching. There is much trouble and discomfort to the
managers of such an establishment as this. Provost went shooting, but
saw nothing. Young McKenzie and another man were sent to find the scow,
but in vain. On their return they said a hunter from Fort Mortimer had
brought a Bighorn, and skinned it, and that he would let me have it if I
wished. I sent Bell and Squires, and they brought the skin in. It proves
to be that of an old female in the act of shedding her winter coat, and
I found that she was covered with abundance of downy wool like the
Antelopes under similar circumstances. Mr. Larpenteur caught five small
catfish, which we ate at breakfast. After dinner Le Brun returned home,
but brought only the skin of a young female of the White-tailed Deer,
and I was surprised to see that it had the germ of a horn about one inch
long; the skin was quite red, and it is saved. A young Elk was brought
in good condition, as the hunters here know how to save skins properly;
it was too young, however, to take measurements. The horns were in
velvet about six inches long. When one sees the powerful bones and
muscles of this young animal, one cannot fail to think of the great
strength of the creature when mature, and its ability to bear with ease
the enormous antlers with which its head is surmounted. The flesh of the
Antelope is not comparable with that of the Deer, being dry and usually
tough. It is very rarely indeed that a fat Antelope is killed. Bell has
been very busy in skinning small birds and animals. We procured a young
Red-shafted Woodpecker, killed by an Indian boy with a bow and arrow.
Mr. Kipp's "Mackinaw" was launched this evening, and sent across the
river with men to relieve the charcoal-burners; she returned immediately
and we expect that Mr. Kipp's crew will go off to-morrow about twelve. I
was told a curious anecdote connected with a Grizzly Bear, that I will
write down; it is as follows: One of the _engages_ of the Company was
forced to run away, having killed an Indian woman, and made his way to
the Crow Fort, three hundred miles up the Yellowstone River. When he
arrived there he was in sad plight, having his own squaw and one or two
children along, who had all suffered greatly with hunger, thirst, and
exposure. They were received at the fort, but in a short time, less than
a week afterwards, he again ran off with his family, and on foot. The
discovery was soon made, and two men were sent after him; but he eluded
their vigilance by keeping close in ravines, etc. The men returned, and
two others with an Indian were despatched on a second search, and after
much travel saw the man and his family on an island, where he had taken
refuge from his pursuers. The Buffalo-hide canoe in which he had
attempted to cross the river was upset, and it was with difficulty that
he saved his wife and children. They were now unable to escape, and when
talking as to the best way to secure their return to the fort, the
soldiers saw him walk to the body of a dead Buffalo lying on the shore
of the island, with the evident intention of procuring some of it for
food. As he stooped to cut off a portion, to his utter horror he saw a
small Grizzly Bear crawl out from the carcass. It attacked him fiercely,
and so suddenly that he was unable to defend himself; the Bear lacerated
his face, arms, and the upper part of his body in a frightful manner,
and would have killed him, had not the Indian raised his gun and fired
at the Bear, wounding him severely, while a second shot killed him. The
_engage_ was too much hurt to make further effort to escape, and one of
the Company's boats passing soon after, he and his family were taken
back to the fort, where he was kept to await his trial.
_June 29, Thursday._ It rained hard during the night, but at dawn
Provost went shooting and returned to dinner, having shot a doe, which
was skinned and the meat saved. He saw a Grouse within a few feet of
him, but did not shoot, as he had only a rifle. Bell and I took a long
walk, and shot several birds. We both were surprised to find a flock of
Cliff Swallows endeavoring to build nests beneath the ledges of a clay
bank. Watching the moment when several had alighted against the bank, I
fired, and killed three. Previous to this, as I was walking along a
ravine, a White Wolf ran past within fifteen or twenty paces of me, but
I had only very small shot, and did not care to wound where I could not
kill. The fellow went off at a limping gallop, and Bell after it,
squatting whenever the Wolf stopped to look at him; but at last the
rascal lost himself in a deep ravine, and a few minutes after we saw him
emerge from the shrubs some distance off, and go across the prairie
towards the river. Bell saw two others afterwards, and if ever there was
a country where Wolves are surpassingly abundant, it is the one we now
are in. Wolves are in the habit of often lying down on the prairies,
where they form quite a bed, working at bones the while. We found a nest
of the Prairie Lark, with four eggs. We saw Arctic Bluebirds, Say's
Flycatcher and Lazuli Finches. Say's Flycatcher has a note almost like
the common Pewee. They fly over the prairies like Hawks, looking for
grasshoppers, upon which they pounce, and if they lose sight of them,
they try again at another place. We returned home to dinner, and after
this a discussion arose connected with the Red-shafted Woodpecker. We
determined to go and procure one of the young, and finding that these
have pale-yellow shafts, instead of deep orange-red, such as the old
birds have, the matter was tested and settled according to my statement.
Harris and I went off after the doe killed this morning, and killed
another, but as I have now skins enough, the measurements only were
taken, and the head cut off, which I intend drawing to-morrow. Harris
shot also a Grouse, and a Woodpecker that will prove a _Canadensis_; he
killed the male also, but could not find it, and we found seven young
Red-shafted Woodpeckers in one nest. I killed a female Meadow Lark, the
first seen in this country by us. Provost told me (and he is a
respectable man) that, during the breeding season of the Mountain Ram,
the battering of the horns is often heard as far as a mile away, and
that at such times they are approached with comparative ease; and there
is no doubt that it is during such encounters that the horns are broken
and twisted as I have seen them, and not by leaping from high places and
falling on their horns, as poetical travellers have asserted. The fact
is that when these animals leap from any height they alight firmly on
all their four feet. At this season the young are always very difficult
to catch, and I have not yet seen one of them. Harris, Bell, and young
McKenzie are going Bighorn hunting to-morrow, and I hope they will be
successful; I, alas! am no longer young and alert enough for the
expedition. We find the mosquitoes very troublesome, and very numerous.
_June 30, Friday._ The weather was dark, with the wind at the northwest,
and looked so like rain that the hunters did not start as they had
proposed. Sprague, Harris, and Bell went out, however, after small game.
I began drawing at five this morning, and worked almost without
cessation till after three, when, becoming fatigued for want of
practice, I took a short walk, regretting I could no longer draw twelve
or fourteen hours without a pause or thought of weariness. It is now
raining quite hard. Mr. Larpenteur went after a large tree to make a
ferry-boat, and the new skiff was begun this morning. I sent Provost to
Fort Mortimer to see if any one had arrived from below; he found a man
had done so last evening and brought letters to Mr. Collins, requesting
him to do all he can for us. He also reported that a party of Sioux had
had a battle with the Gros Ventres, and had killed three of the latter
and a white man who lived with them as a blacksmith. The Gros Ventres,
on the other hand, had killed eight of the Sioux and put them to flight.
The blacksmith killed two Sioux, and the enemies cut off one leg and one
arm, scalped him, and left the mangled body behind them. It is said
there is now no person living who can recollect the manner in which the
bitter enmity of these two nations originated. The Yellowstone River is
again rising fast, and Mr. Kipp will have tough times before he reaches
Fort Alexander, which was built by Mr. Alexander Culbertson, our present
host, and the Company had it honored by his name. When a herd of
Buffaloes is chased, although the bulls themselves run very swiftly off,
their speed is not to be compared to that of the cows and yearlings; for
these latter are seen in a few minutes to leave the bulls behind them,
and as cows and young Buffaloes are preferable to the old males, when
the hunters are well mounted they pursue the cows and young ones
invariably. Last winter Buffaloes were extremely abundant close to this
fort, so much so that while the people were engaged in bringing hay in
carts, the Buffaloes during the night came close in, and picked up every
wisp that was dropped. An attempt to secure them alive was made by
strewing hay in such a manner as to render the bait more and more
plentiful near the old fort, which is distant about two hundred yards,
and which was once the property of Mr. Sublette and Co.; but as the hogs
and common cattle belonging to the fort are put up there regularly at
sunset, the Buffaloes ate the hay to the very gates, but would not enter
the enclosure, probably on account of the different smells issuing
therefrom. At this period large herds slept in front of the fort, but
just before dawn would remove across the hills about one mile distant,
and return towards night. An attempt was made to shoot them with a
cannon--a four-pounder; three were killed and several wounded. Still the
Buffaloes came to their sleeping ground at evening, and many were killed
during the season. I saw the head of one Mr. Culbertson shot, and the
animal must have been of unusual size.
_July 1, Saturday._ It was still raining when I got up, but a few
minutes later the sun was shining through one of our windows, and the
wind being at northwest we anticipated a fine day. The ground was
extremely wet and muddy, but Harris and Bell went off on horseback, and
returned a few minutes after noon. They brought some birds and had
killed a rascally Wolf. Bell found the nest of the Arkansas Flycatcher.
The nest and eggs, as well as the manners, of this bird resemble in many
ways those of our King-bird. The nest was in an elm, twenty or
twenty-five feet above the ground, and he saw another in a similar
situation. Mr. Culbertson and I walked to the Pilot Knob with a
spy-glass, to look at the present condition of Fort Mortimer. This
afternoon Squires, Provost, and I walked there, and were kindly received
as usual. We found all the people encamped two hundred yards from the
river, as they had been obliged to move from the tumbling fort during
the rain of last night. Whilst we were there a trapper came in with a
horse and told us the following: This man and four others left that fort
on the 1st of April last on an expedition after Beavers. They were
captured by a party of about four hundred Sioux, who took them prisoners
and kept him one day and a half, after which he was released, but his
companions were kept prisoners. He crossed the river and found a horse
belonging to the Indians, stole it, and reached the fort at last. He
looked miserable indeed, almost without a rag of clothing, long hair,
filthy beyond description, and having only one very keen, bright eye,
which looked as if he was both proud and brave. He had subsisted for the
last eleven days on pomme blanche and the thick leaves of the cactus,
which he roasted to get rid of the thorns or spines, and thus had fared
most miserably; for, previous to the capture of himself and his
companions, he had upset his bull canoe and lost his rifle, which to a
trapper is, next to life, his dependence. When he was asked if he would
have some dinner, he said that he had forgotten the word, but would try
the taste of meat again. Mr. Collins was very polite to me, and promised
me a hunter for the whole of next week, expressly to shoot Bighorns. I
hope this promise may be better kept than that of Mr. Chardon, who told
me that should he have one killed within forty miles he would send
Alexis back with it at once. We heard some had been killed, but this may
not be true; at any rate, men are men all over the world, and a broken
promise is not unheard-of. This evening Mr. Culbertson presented me with
a splendid dress, as well as one to Harris and one to Bell, and promised
one to Sprague, which I have no doubt he will have. Harris and Sprague
went off to procure Woodpeckers' nests, and brought the most curious set
of five birds that I ever saw, and which I think will puzzle all the
naturalists in the world. The first was found near the nest, of which
Sprague shot the female, a light-colored Red-shafted Woodpecker. It
proved to be of the same color, but had the rudiments of black stripes
on the cheeks. Next, Sprague shot an adult yellow-winged male, with the
markings principally such as are found in the Eastern States. Harris
then shot a young Red-shafted, just fledged, with a black stripe on the
cheek. His next shot was a light-colored Red-shafted male, with black
cheeks, and another still, a yellow Red-shafted with a red cheek.[32]
After all this Mr. Culbertson proposed to run a sham Buffalo hunt again.
He, Harris, and Squires started on good horses, went about a mile, and
returned full tilt, firing and cracking. Squires fired four times and
missed once. Harris did not shoot at all; but Mr. Culbertson fired
eleven times, starting at the onset with an empty gun, snapped three
times, and reached the fort with his gun loaded. A more wonderful rider
I never saw.
_July 2, Sunday._ The weather was cool and pleasant this morning, with
no mosquitoes, which indeed--plentiful and troublesome as they
are--Provost tells me are more scarce this season than he ever knew
them thus far up the Missouri. Sprague finished his drawing of the doe's
head about dinner-time, and it looks well. After dinner he went after
the puzzling Woodpeckers, and brought three, all different from each
other. Mr. Culbertson, his squaw wife, and I rode to Fort Mortimer,
accompanied by young McKenzie, and found Mr. Collins quite ill. We saw
the hunters of that fort, and they promised to supply me with Bighorns,
at ten dollars apiece in the flesh, and also some Black-tailed Deer, and
perhaps a Grizzly Bear. This evening they came to the fort for old Peter
and a mule, to bring in their game; and may success attend them! When we
returned, Harris started off with Mr. Culbertson and his wife to see the
condition of Mr. Collins, to whom he administered some remedies. Harris
had an accident that was near being of a serious nature; as he was
getting into the wagon, thinking that a man had hold of the reins, which
was not the case, his foot was caught between the axle-tree and the
wagon, he was thrown down on his arm and side, and hurt to some extent;
fortunately he escaped without serious injury, and does not complain
much this evening, as he has gone on the ramparts to shoot a Wolf.
Sprague saw a Wolf in a hole a few yards from the fort, but said not a
word of it till after dinner, when Bell and Harris went there and shot
it through the head. It was a poor, miserable, crippled old beast, that
could not get out of the hole, which is not more than three or four feet
deep. After breakfast we had a hunt after Hares or Rabbits, and Harris
saw two of them, but was so near he did not care to shoot at them.
Whilst Harris and Mr. Culbertson went off to see Mr. Collins, Mr. Denig
and I walked off with a bag and instruments, to take off the head of a
three-years-dead Indian chief, called the White Cow. Mr. Denig got upon
my shoulders and into the branches near the coffin, which stood about
ten feet above ground. The coffin was lowered, or rather tumbled, down,
and the cover was soon hammered off; to my surprise, the feet were
placed on the pillow, instead of the head, which lay at the foot of the
coffin--if a long box may so be called. Worms innumerable were all about
it; the feet were naked, shrunk, and dried up. The head had still the
hair on, but was twisted off in a moment, under jaw and all. The body
had been first wrapped up in a Buffalo skin without hair, and then in
another robe with the hair on, as usual; after this the dead man had
been enveloped in an American flag, and over this a superb scarlet
blanket. We left all on the ground but the head. Squires, Mr. Denig and
young Owen McKenzie went afterwards to try to replace the coffin and
contents in the tree, but in vain; the whole affair fell to the ground,
and there it lies; but I intend to-morrow to have it covered with earth.
The history of this man is short, and I had it from Mr. Larpenteur, who
was in the fort at the time of his decease, or self-committed death. He
was a good friend to the whites, and knew how to procure many Buffalo
robes for them; he was also a famous orator, and never failed to
harangue his people on all occasions. He was, however, consumptive, and
finding himself about to die, he sent his squaw for water, took an arrow
from his quiver, and thrusting it into his heart, expired, and was found
dead when his squaw returned to the lodge. He was "buried" in the
above-mentioned tree by the orders of Mr. McKenzie, who then commanded
this fort. Mr. Culbertson drove me so fast, and Harris so much faster,
over this rough ground, that I feel quite stiff. I must not forget to
say that we had another sham Buffalo chase over the prairie in front of
the fort, the riders being Squires, young McKenzie, and Mr. Culbertson;
and I was glad and proud to see that Squires, though so inexperienced a
hunter, managed to shoot five shots within the mile, McKenzie eleven,
and Mr. Culbertson eight. Harris killed an old Wolf, which he thought
was larger and fatter than any killed previously. It was very large, but
on examination it was found to be poor and without teeth in the upper
jaw.
_July 3, Monday._ We have had a warm night and day; after breakfast we
all six crossed the river in the newly built skiff, and went off in
divers directions. Provost and I looked thoroughly through the
brushwood, and walked fully six miles from the fort; we saw three Deer,
but so far were they that it was useless to shoot. Deer-shooting on the
prairies is all hazard; sometimes the animals come tripping along within
ten yards of you, and at other times not nearer can you get than one
hundred and fifty yards, which was the case this day. The others killed
nothing of note, and crossed the river back to the fort two hours at
least before us; and we shot and bawled out for nearly an hour, before
the skiff was sent for us. I took a swim, found the water very pleasant,
and was refreshed by my bath. The Bighorn hunters returned this
afternoon with a Bighorn, a female, and also a female Black-tailed Deer.
I paid them $15 for the two, and they are to start again to-morrow
evening, or the next day.
_July 4, Tuesday._ Although we had some fireworks going on last evening,
after I had laid myself down for the night, the anniversary of the
Independence of the United States has been almost the quietest I have
ever spent, as far as my recollection goes. I was drawing the whole day,
and Sprague was engaged in the same manner, painting a likeness of Mr.
Culbertson. Harris and Bell went off to try and procure a buck of the
Long White-tailed Deer, and returned after dinner much fatigued and
hungry enough. Bell had shot at a Deer and wounded it very severely; the
poor thing ran on, but soon lay down, for the blood and froth were
gushing out of its mouth. Bell saw the buck lying down, and not being an
experienced hunter, thought it was dead, and instead of shooting it
again, went back to call Harris; when they returned, the Deer was gone,
and although they saw it again and again, the Deer outwitted them, and,
as I have said, they returned weary, with no Deer. After dinner I spoke
to Mr. Culbertson on the subject, and he told me that the Deer could
probably be found, but that most likely the Wolves would devour it. He
prepared to send young McKenzie with both my friends; the horses were
soon saddled, and the three were off at a gallop. The poor buck's
carcass was found, but several Wolves and Turkey Buzzards had fared well
upon it; the vertebrae only were left, with a few bits of skin and
portions of the horns in velvet. These trophies were all that they
brought home. It was a superb and very large animal, and I am very sorry
for the loss of it, as I am anxious to draw the head of one of such a
size as they represent this to have been. They ran after a Wolf, which
gave them leg bail. Meanwhile Squires and Provost started with the skiff
in a cart to go up the river two miles, cross, and camp on the opposite
shore. The weather became very gloomy and chill. In talking with Mr.
Culbertson he told me that no wise man would ever follow a Buffalo bull
immediately in his track, even in a hunt, and that no one well initiated
would ever run after Buffaloes between the herd and another hunter, as
the latter bears on the former ever and anon, and places him in imminent
danger. Buffalo cows rarely, if ever, turn on the assailant, but bulls
oftentimes will, and are so dangerous that many a fine hunter has been
gored and killed, as well as his horse.
_July 5, Wednesday._ It rained the whole of last night and the weather
has been bad all day. I am at the Bighorn's head, and Sprague at Mr.
Culbertson. Provost and Squires returned drenched and hungry, before
dinner. They had seen several Deer, and fresh tracks of a large Grizzly
Bear. They had waded through mud and water enough for one day, and were
well fatigued. Harris and Bell both shot at Wolves from the ramparts,
and as these things are of such common occurrence I will say no more
about them, unless we are in want of one of these beasts. Harris and I
went over to see Mr. Collins, who is much better; his hunters had not
returned. We found the men there mostly engaged in playing cards and
backgammon. The large patches of rose bushes are now in full bloom, and
they are so full of sweet fragrance that the air is perfumed by them.
The weather looks clear towards the north, and I expect a fine
to-morrow. Old Provost has been telling me much of interest about the
Beavers, once so plentiful, but now very scarce. It takes about seventy
Beaver skins to make a pack of a hundred pounds; in a good market this
pack is worth five hundred dollars, and in fortunate seasons a trapper
sometimes made the large sum of four thousand dollars. Formerly, when
Beavers were abundant, companies were sent with as many as thirty and
forty men, each with from eight to a dozen traps, and two horses. When
at a propitious spot, they erected a camp, and every man sought his own
game; the skins alone were brought to the camp, where a certain number
of men always remained to stretch and dry them.
_July 6, Thursday._ The weather has been pleasant, with the wind at
northwest, and the prairies will dry a good deal. After breakfast
Harris, Bell, and McKenzie went off on horseback. They saw a Red Fox of
the country,[33] which is different from those of the States; they
chased it, and though it ran slowly at first, the moment it saw the
hunters at full gallop, it ran swiftly from them. McKenzie shot with a
rifle and missed it. They saw fresh tracks of the small Hare, but not
any of the animals themselves. After dinner I worked at Mr.
Culbertson's head and dress, and by evening had the portrait nearly
finished. At four o'clock Harris, Bell, and Sprague went across the
river in the skiff; Sprague to take a view of the fort, the others to
hunt. Harris and Bell shot twice at a buck, and killed it, though only
one buckshot entered the thigh. Whilst we were sitting at the back gate
of the fort, we saw a parcel of Indians coming towards the place,
yelling and singing what Mr. Culbertson told me was the song of the
scalp dance; we saw through the telescope that they were fourteen in
number, with their faces painted black, and that it was a detachment of
a war party. When within a hundred yards they all stopped, as if
awaiting an invitation; we did not hurry as to this, and they seated
themselves on the ground and looked at us, while Mr. Culbertson sent Mr.
Denig to ask them to come in by the front gate of the fort, and put them
in the Indian house, a sort of camp for the fellows. They all looked
miserably poor, filthy beyond description, and their black faces and
foully smelling Buffalo robes made them appear to me like so many
devils. The leader, who was well known to be a famous rascal, and was
painted red, was a tall, well-formed man. The party had only three poor
guns, and a few had coarse, common lances; every man had a knife, and
the leader was armed with a stick in which were inserted three blades of
butcher's-knives; a blow from this weapon would doubtless kill a man.
Some of the squaws of the fort, having found that they were Assiniboins,
went to meet them; they took one of these, and painted her face black,
as a sign of friendship. Most of these mighty warriors had a lump of
fresh Buffalo meat slung on his back, which was all traded for by Mr.
Larpenteur, who gave them in exchange some dried meat, not worth the
notice of Harris's dog, and some tobacco. The report of their expedition
is as follows: Their party at first consisted of nearly fifty; they
travelled several hundred miles in search of Blackfeet, and having
discovered a small troop of them, they hid till the next morning, when
at daylight (this is always the time they prefer for an attack) they
rushed upon the enemy, surprised them, killed one at the onset, and the
rest took to flight, leaving guns, horses, shields, lances, etc., on the
ground. The Assiniboins took several guns and seven horses, and the
scalp of the dead Indian. It happened that the man they killed had some
time ago killed the father of their chief, and he was full of joy. After
eating and resting awhile, they followed the trail of the Blackfeet,
hoping to again surprise them; but not seeing them, they separated into
small parties, and it is one of these parties that is now with us. The
chief, to show his pride and delight at killing his enemy, has borrowed
a drum; and the company have nearly ever since been yelling, singing,
and beating that beastly tambour. Boucherville came to me, and told me
that if the swamp over the river was sufficiently dried by to-morrow
morning, he would come early with a companion for two horses, and would
go after Bighorns. He returned this afternoon from a Buffalo hunt and
had killed six. These six animals, all bulls, will suffice for Fort
Mortimer only three days. A rascally Indian had stolen his gun and
Bighorn bow; the gun he said he could easily replace, but the loss of
the bow he regretted exceedingly.
_July 7, Friday._ This morning the dirty Indians, who could have washed
had they so minded, were beating the tambour and singing their miserable
scalp song, until Mr. Culbertson ordered the drum taken away, and gave
them more tobacco and some vermilion to bedaub their faces. They were
permitted to remain about the fort the remainder of the day, and the
night coming they will again be sheltered; but they must depart
to-morrow morning. After breakfast Sprague worked on the view of the
fort. I went on with the portrait of Mr. Culbertson, who is about as bad
a sitter as his wife, whose portrait is very successful,
notwithstanding her extreme restlessness. After dinner Harris, Bell, and
I started on foot, and walked about four miles from the fort; the day
was hot, and horseflies and mosquitoes pretty abundant, but we trudged
on, though we saw nothing; we had gone after Rabbits, the tracks of
which had been seen previously. We walked immediately near the foot of
the clay hills which run from about a mile from and above the fort to
the Lord knows where. We first passed one ravine where we saw some very
curious sandstone formations, coming straight out horizontally from the
clay banks between which we were passing; others lay loose and detached;
they had fallen down, or had been washed out some time or other. All
were compressed in such a manner that the usual form was an oval
somewhat depressed in the centre; but, to give you some idea of these
formations, I will send you a rough sketch. Those in the banks extended
from five to seven feet, and the largest one on the ground measured a
little less than ten feet. Bell thought they would make good
sharpening-stones, but I considered them too soft. They were all smooth,
and the grain was alike in all. We passed two much depressed and very
broken ravines, and at last reached the Rabbit ground. Whilst looking at
the wild scenery around, and the clay hills on the other side of the
Missouri opposite the fort, I thought that if all these were granite,
the formation and general appearance would resemble the country of
Labrador, though the grandeur and sublimity of the latter far surpass
anything that I have seen since I left them forever. I must not forget
to say that on our way we passed through some grasses with bearded
shafts, so sharp that they penetrated our moccasins and entered our feet
and ankles, and in the shade of a stumpy ash-tree we took off our
moccasins and drew the spines out. The Lazuli Finches and Arctic
Bluebirds sang in our view; but though we beat all the clumps of low
bushes where the Rabbits must go in, whether during night or day, we did
not start one. We saw a Wolf which ran close by, reached the brow of the
hill, and kept where he could watch our every motion; this they do on
all possible occasions. We were all very warm, so we rested awhile, and
ate some service-berries, which I found good; the gooseberries were
small and green, and almost choked Harris with their sharp acidity. On
our return, as we were descending the first deep ravine, a Raven flew
off close by; it was so near Bell that he had no time to shoot. I
followed it and although loaded with No. 6 shot, I drew my trigger and
the bird fell dead; only one shot had touched it, but that had passed
through the lungs. After we reached the prairie I shot a Meadow Lark,
but lost it, as we had unfortunately not taken Bragg (Harris's dog). We
saw a patch of wood called in these regions a "Point;" we walked towards
it for the purpose of shooting Deer. I was sent to the lower end, Bell
took one side, and Harris the other, and the hound we had with us was
sent in; no Deer there, however, and we made for the fort, which we
reached hot and thirsty enough after our long walk. As soon as I was
cooled I took a good swim. I think the Indians hereabouts poor swimmers;
they beat the water with their arms, attempting to "nage a la brasse;"
but, alas! it is too bad to mention. I am told, however, that there are
no good specimens to judge from at the fort, so this is not much of an
opinion. It is strange how very scarce snakes of every description are,
as well as insects, except mosquitoes and horseflies. Young McKenzie had
been sent to seek for the lost ferry-boat, but returned without success;
the new one is expected to be put in the water to-morrow evening.
Squires and Provost had the skiff carried overland three miles, and they
crossed the river in it with the intention to remain hunting until
Sunday night.
_July 8, Saturday._ Mr. Culbertson told me this morning that last
spring early, during a snow-storm, he and Mr. Larpenteur were out in an
Indian lodge close by the fort, when they heard the mares which had
young colts making much noise; and that on going out they saw a single
Wolf that had thrown down one of the colts, and was about doing the same
with another. They both made towards the spot with their pistols; and,
fearing that the Wolf might kill both the colts, fired before reaching
the spot, when too far off to take aim. Master Wolf ran off, but both
colts bear evidence of his teeth to this day. When I came down this
morning early, I was delighted to see the dirty and rascally Indians
walking off to their lodge on the other side of the hills, and before
many days they will be at their camp enjoying their merriment (rough and
senseless as it seems to me), yelling out their scalp song, and dancing.
Now this dance, to commemorate the death of an enemy, is a mere bending
and slackening of the body, and patting of the ground with both feet at
once, in very tolerable time with their music. Our squaws yesterday
joined them in this exemplary ceremony; one was blackened, and all the
others painted with vermilion. The art of painting in any color is to
mix the color desired with grease of one sort or another; and when well
done, it will stick on for a day or two, if not longer. Indians are not
equal to the whites in the art of dyeing Porcupine quills; their
ingredients are altogether too simple and natural to equal the knowledge
of chemicals. Mr. Denig dyed a good quantity to-day for Mrs. Culbertson;
he boiled water in a tin kettle with the quills put in when the water
boiled, to remove the oil attached naturally to them; next they were
thoroughly washed, and fresh water boiled, wherein he placed the color
wanted, and boiled the whole for a few minutes, when he looked at them
to judge of the color, and so continued until all were dyed. Red,
yellow, green, and black quills were the result of his labors. A good
deal of vegetable acid is necessary for this purpose, as minerals, so
they say here, will not answer. I drew at Mr. Culbertson's portrait till
he was tired enough; his wife--a pure Indian--is much interested in my
work. Bell and Sprague, after some long talk with Harris about
geological matters, of which valuable science he knows a good deal, went
off to seek a Wolf's hole that Sprague had seen some days before, but of
which, with his usual reticence, he had not spoken. Sprague returned
with a specimen of rattle-snake root, which he has already drawn. Bell
saw a Wolf munching a bone, approached it and shot at it. The Wolf had
been wounded before and ran off slowly, and Bell after it. Mr.
Culbertson and I saw the race; Bell gained on the Wolf until within
thirty steps when he fired again; the Wolf ran some distance further,
and then fell; but Bell was now exhausted by the heat, which was
intense, and left the animal where it lay without attempting to skin it.
Squires and Provost returned this afternoon about three o'clock, but the
first alone had killed a doe. It was the first one he had ever shot, and
he placed seven buckshot in her body. Owen went off one way, and Harris
and Bell another, but brought in nothing. Provost went off to the
Opposition camp, and when he returned told me that a Porcupine was
there, and would be kept until I saw it; so Harris drove me over, at the
usual breakneck pace, and I bought the animal. Mr. Collins is yet
poorly, their hunters have not returned, and they are destitute of
everything, not having even a medicine chest. We told him to send a man
back with us, which he did, and we sent him some medicine, rice, and two
bottles of claret. The weather has been much cooler and pleasanter than
yesterday.
_July 9, Sunday._ I drew at a Wolf's head, and Sprague worked at a view
of the fort for Mr. Culbertson. I also worked on Mr. Culbertson's
portrait about an hour. I then worked at the Porcupine, which is an
animal such as I never saw or Bell either. Its measurements are: from
nose to anterior canthus of the eye, 1-5/8 in., posterior ditto, 2-1/8;
conch of ear, 3-1/2; distances from eyes posteriorly, 2-1/4; fore feet
stretched beyond nose, 3-1/2; length of head around, 4-1/8; nose to root
of tail, 18-1/2; length of tail vertebrae, 6-3/8; to end of hair, 7-3/4;
hind claws when stretched equal to end of tail; greatest breadth of
palm, 1-1/4; of sole, 1-3/8; outward width of tail at base, 3-5/8; depth
of ditto, 3-1/8; length of palm, 1-1/2; ditto of sole, 1-7/8; height at
shoulder, 11; at rump, 10-1/4; longest hair on the back, 8-7/8; breadth
between ears, 2-1/4; from nostril to split of upper lip, 3/4; upper
incisors, 5/8; lower ditto, 3/4; tongue quite smooth; weight 11 lbs. The
habits of this animal are somewhat different from those of the Canadian
Porcupine. The one of this country often goes in crevices or holes, and
young McKenzie caught one in a Wolf's den, along with the old Wolf and
seven young; they climb trees, however.
Provost tells me that Wolves are oftentimes destroyed by wild horses,
which he has seen run at the Wolves head down, and when at a proper
distance take them by the middle of the back with their teeth, and throw
them several feet in the air, after which they stamp upon their bodies
with the fore feet until quite dead. I have a bad blister on the heel of
my right foot, and cannot walk without considerable pain.
_July 10, Monday._ Squires, Owen, McKenzie, and Provost, with a mule, a
cart, and Peter the horse, went off at seven this morning for Antelopes.
Bell did not feel well enough to go with them, and was unable to eat his
usual meal, but I made him some good gruel, and he is better now. This
afternoon Harris went off on horseback after Rabbits, and he will, I
hope, have success. The day has been fine, and cool compared with
others. I took a walk, and made a drawing of the beautiful sugar-loaf
cactus; it does not open its blossoms until after the middle of the day,
and closes immediately on being placed in the shade.
_July 11, Tuesday._ Harris returned about ten o'clock last night, but
saw no Hares; how we are to procure any is more than I can tell. Mr.
Culbertson says that it was dangerous for Harris to go so far as he did
alone up the country, and he must not try it again. The hunters returned
this afternoon, but brought only one buck, which is, however, beautiful,
and the horns in velvet so remarkable that I can hardly wait for
daylight to begin drawing it. I have taken all the measurements of this
perfect animal; it was shot by old Provost. Mr. Culbertson--whose
portrait is nearly finished--his wife, and I took a ride to look at some
grass for hay, and found it beautiful and plentiful. We saw two Wolves,
a common one and a prairie one. Bell is better. Sprague has drawn
another cactus; Provost and I have now skinned the buck, and it hangs in
the ice-house; the head, however, is untouched.
_July 12, Wednesday._ I rose before three, and began at once to draw the
buck's head. Bell assisted me to place it in the position I wanted, and
as he felt somewhat better, while I drew, he finished the skin of the
Porcupine; so that is saved. Sprague continued his painting of the fort.
Just after dinner a Wolf was seen leisurely walking within one hundred
yards of the fort. Bell took the repeating rifle, went on the ramparts,
fired, and missed it. Mr. Culbertson sent word to young Owen McKenzie to
get a horse and give it chase. All was ready in a few minutes, and off
went the young fellow after the beast. I left my drawing long enough to
see the pursuit, and was surprised to see that the Wolf did not start
off on a gallop till his pursuer was within one hundred yards or so of
him, and who then gained rapidly. Suddenly the old sinner turned, and
the horse went past him some little distance. As soon as he could be
turned about McKenzie closed upon him, his gun flashed twice; but now he
was almost _a bon touchant_, the gun went off--the Wolf was dead. I
walked out to meet Owen with the beast; it was very poor, very old, and
good for nothing as a specimen. Harris, who had shot at one last
night in the late twilight, had killed it, but was not aware of it till
I found the villain this morning. It had evidently been dragged at by
its brothers, who, however, had not torn it. Provost went over to the
other fort to find out where the Buffaloes are most abundant, and did
not return till late, so did no hunting. A young dog of this country's
breed ate up all the berries collected by Mrs. Culbertson, and her lord
had it killed for our supper this evening. The poor thing was stuck with
a knife in the throat, after which it was placed over a hot fire outside
of the fort, singed, and the hair scraped off, as I myself have treated
Raccoons and Opossums. Then the animal was boiled, and I intend to taste
one mouthful of it, for I cannot say that just now I should relish an
entire meal from such peculiar fare. There are men, however, who much
prefer the flesh to Buffalo meat, or even venison. An ox was broken to
work this day, and worked far better than I expected. I finished at last
Mr. Culbertson's portrait, and it now hangs in a frame. He and his wife
are much pleased with it, and I am heartily glad they are, for in
conscience I am not; however, it is all I could do, especially with a
man who is never in the same position for one whole minute; so no more
can be expected. The dog was duly cooked and brought into Mr.
Culbertson's room; he served it out to Squires, Mr. Denig, and myself,
and I was astonished when I tasted it. With great care and some
repugnance I put a very small piece in my mouth; but no sooner had the
taste touched my palate than I changed my dislike to liking, and found
this victim of the canine order most excellent, and made a good meal,
finding it fully equal to any meat I ever tasted. Old Provost had told
me he preferred it to any meat, and his subsequent actions proved the
truth of his words. We are having some music this evening, and Harris
alone is absent, being at his favorite evening occupation, namely,
shooting at Wolves from the ramparts.
[Illustration: AUDUBON.
From the pencil sketch by Isaac Sprague, 1842. In the possession
of the Sprague family, Wellesley Hills, Mass.]
_July 13, Thursday._ This has been a cloudy and a sultry day. Sprague
finished his drawing and I mine. After dinner Mr. Culbertson, Squires,
and myself went off nine miles over the prairies to look at the
"meadows," as they are called, where Mr. Culbertson has heretofore cut
his winter crop of hay, but we found it indifferent compared with that
above the fort. We saw Sharp-tailed Grouse, and what we thought a new
species of Lark, which we shot at no less than ten times before it was
killed by Mr. Culbertson, but not found. I caught one of its young, but
it proved to be only the Shore Lark. Before we reached the meadows we
saw a flock of fifteen or twenty Bob-o-link, _Emberiza orizivora_, and
on our return shot one of them (a male) on the wing. It is the first
seen since we left St. Louis. We reached the meadows at last, and tied
our nag to a tree, with the privilege of feeding. Mr. Culbertson and
Squires went in the "meadows," and I walked round the so-called patch. I
shot seven Arkansas Flycatchers on the wing. After an hour's walking, my
companions returned, but had seen nothing except the fresh tracks of a
Grizzly Bear. I shot at one of the White-rumped Hawks, of which I have
several times spoken, but although it dropped its quarry and flew very
wildly afterwards, it went out of my sight. We found the beds of Elks
and their fresh dung, but saw none of these animals. I have forgotten to
say that immediately after breakfast this morning I drove with Squires
to Fort Mortimer, and asked Mr. Collins to let me have his hunter,
Boucherville, to go after Mountain Rams for me, which he promised to do.
In the afternoon he sent a man over to ask for some flour, which Mr.
Culbertson sent him. They are there in the utmost state of destitution,
almost of starvation, awaiting the arrival of the hunters like so many
famished Wolves. Harris and Bell went across the river and shot a Wolf
under the river bank, and afterwards a Duck, but saw nothing else. But
during their absence we have had a fine opportunity of witnessing the
agility and extreme strength of a year-old Buffalo bull belonging to the
fort. Our cook, who is an old Spaniard, threw his lasso over the
Buffalo's horns, and all the men in the fort at the time, hauled and
pulled the beast about, trying to get him close to a post. He kicked,
pulled, leaped sideways, and up and down, snorting and pawing until he
broke loose, and ran, as if quite wild, about the enclosure. He was tied
again and again, without any success, and at last got out of the fort,
but was soon retaken, the rope being thrown round his horns, and he was
brought to the main post of the Buffalo-robe press. There he was brought
to a standstill, at the risk of breaking his neck, and the last remnant
of his winter coat was removed by main strength, which was the object
for which the poor animal had undergone all this trouble. After Harris
returned to the fort he saw six Sharp-tailed Grouse. At this season this
species have no particular spot where you may rely upon finding them,
and at times they fly through the woods, and for a great distance, too,
where they alight on trees; when, unless you accidentally see them, you
pass by without their moving. After we passed Fort Mortimer on our
return we saw coming from the banks of the river no less than eighteen
Wolves, which altogether did not cover a space of more than three or
four yards, they were so crowded. Among them were two Prairie Wolves.
Had we had a good running horse some could have been shot; but old Peter
is long past his running days. The Wolves had evidently been feeding on
some carcass along the banks, and all moved very slowly. Mr. Culbertson
gave me a grand pair of leather breeches and a very handsome knife-case,
all manufactured by the Blackfeet Indians.
_July 14, Friday._ Thermometer 70 deg.-95 deg.. Young McKenzie went off after
Antelopes across the river alone, but saw only one, which he could not
get near. After breakfast Harris, Squires, and I started after birds of
all sorts, with the wagon, and proceeded about six miles on the road we
had travelled yesterday. We met the hunter from Fort Mortimer going for
Bighorns for me, and Mr. Culbertson lent him a horse and a mule. We
caught two young of the Shore Lark, killed seven of Sprague's Lark, but
by bad management lost two, either from the wagon, my hat, or Harris's
pockets. The weather was exceedingly hot. We hunted for Grouse in the
wormwood bushes, and after despairing of finding any, we started up
three from the plain, and they flew not many yards to the river. We got
out of the wagon and pushed for them; one rose, and Harris shot it,
though it flew some yards before he picked it up. He started another,
and just as he was about to fire, his gunlock caught on his coat, and
off went Mr. Grouse, over and through the woods until out of sight, and
we returned slowly home. We saw ten Wolves this morning. After dinner we
had a curious sight. Squires put on my Indian dress. McKenzie put on one
of Mr. Culbertson's, Mrs. Culbertson put on her own _superb_ dress, and
the cook's wife put on the one Mrs. Culbertson had given me. Squires and
Owen were painted in an awful manner by Mrs. Culbertson, the _Ladies_
had their hair loose, and flying in the breeze, and then all mounted on
horses with Indian saddles and trappings. Mrs. Culbertson and her maid
rode astride like men, and all rode a furious race, under whip the whole
way, for more than one mile on the prairie; and how amazed would have
been any European lady, or some of our modern belles who boast their
equestrian skill, at seeing the magnificent riding of this Indian
princess--for that is Mrs. Culbertson's rank--and her servant. Mr.
Culbertson rode with them, the horses running as if wild, with these
extraordinary Indian riders, Mrs. Culbertson's magnificent black hair
floating like a banner behind her. As to the men (for two others had
joined Squires and McKenzie), I cannot compare them to anything in the
whole creation. They ran like wild creatures of unearthly compound.
Hither and thither they dashed, and when the whole party had crossed the
ravine below, they saw a fine Wolf and gave the whip to their horses,
and though the Wolf cut to right and left Owen shot at him with an arrow
and missed, but Mr. Culbertson gave it chase, overtook it, his gun
flashed, and the Wolf lay dead. They then ascended the hills and away
they went, with our princess and her faithful attendant in the van, and
by and by the group returned to the camp, running full speed till they
entered the fort, and all this in the intense heat of this July
afternoon. Mrs. Culbertson, herself a wonderful rider, possessed of both
strength and grace in a marked degree, assured me that Squires was equal
to any man in the country as a rider, and I saw for myself that he
managed his horse as well as any of the party, and I was pleased to see
him in his dress, ornaments, etc., looking, however, I must confess,
after Mrs. Culbertson's painting his face, like a being from the
infernal regions. Mr. Culbertson presented Harris with a superb dress of
the Blackfoot Indians, and also with a Buffalo bull's head, for which
Harris had in turn presented him with a gun-barrel of the short kind,
and well fitted to shoot Buffaloes. Harris shot a very young one of
Townsend's Hare, Mr. Denig gave Bell a Mouse, which, although it
resembles _Mus leucopus_ greatly, is much larger, and has a short,
thick, round tail, somewhat blunted.
_July 15, Saturday._ We were all up pretty early, for we propose going
up the Yellowstone with a wagon, and the skiff on a cart, should we wish
to cross. After breakfast all of us except Sprague, who did not wish to
go, were ready, and along with two extra men, the wagon, and the cart,
we crossed the Missouri at the fort, and at nine were fairly under
way--Harris, Bell, Mr. Culbertson, and myself in the wagon, Squires,
Provost, and Owen on horseback. We travelled rather slowly, until we had
crossed the point, and headed the ponds on the prairie that run at the
foot of the hills opposite. We saw one Grouse, but it could not be
started, though Harris searched for it. We ran the wagon into a rut, but
got out unhurt; however, I decided to walk for a while, and did so for
about two miles, to the turning point of the hills. The wheels of our
vehicle were very shackling, and had to be somewhat repaired, and though
I expected they would fall to pieces, in some manner or other we
proceeded on. We saw several Antelopes, some on the prairie which we now
travelled on, and many more on the tops of the hills, bounding westward.
We stopped to water the horses at a saline spring, where I saw that
Buffaloes, Antelopes, and other animals come to allay their thirst, and
repose on the grassy margin. The water was too hot for us to drink, and
we awaited the arrival of the cart, when we all took a good drink of the
river water we had brought with us. After waiting for nearly an hour to
allow the horses to bait and cool themselves, for it was very warm, we
proceeded on, until we came to another watering-place, a river, in fact,
which during spring overflows its banks, but now has only pools of water
here and there. We soaked our wheels again, and again drank ourselves.
Squires, Provost, and Owen had left sometime before us, but were not out
of our sight, when we started, and as we had been, and were yet,
travelling a good track, we soon caught up with them. We shot a common
Red-winged Starling, and heard the notes of what was supposed to be a
new bird by my companions, but which to my ears was nothing more than
the Short-billed Marsh Wren of Nuttall. We reached our camping-place,
say perhaps twenty miles' distance, by four o'clock, and all things were
unloaded, the horses put to grass, and two or three of the party went in
"the point" above, to shoot something for supper. I was hungry myself,
and taking the Red-wing and the fishing-line, I went to the river close
by, and had the good fortune to catch four fine catfish, when, my bait
giving out, I was obliged to desist, as I found that these catfish will
not take parts of their own kind as food. Provost had taken a bath, and
rowed the skiff (which we had brought this whole distance on the cart,
dragged by a mule) along with two men, across the river to seek for game
on the point opposite our encampment. They returned, however, without
having shot anything, and my four catfish were all the fresh provisions
that we had, and ten of us partook of them with biscuit, coffee, and
claret. Dusk coming on, the tent was pitched, and preparations to rest
made. Some chose one spot and some another, and after a while we were
settled. Mr. Culbertson and I lay together on the outside of the tent,
and all the party were more or less drowsy. About this time we saw a
large black cloud rising in the west; it was heavy and lowering, and
about ten o'clock, when most of us were pretty nearly sound asleep, the
distant thunder was heard, the wind rose to a gale, and the rain began
falling in torrents. All were on foot in a few moments, and considerable
confusion ensued. Our guns, all loaded with balls, were hurriedly placed
under the tent, our beds also, and we all crawled in, in the space of a
very few minutes. The wind blew so hard that Harris was obliged to hold
the flappers of the tent with both hands, and sat in the water a
considerable time to do this. Old Provost alone did not come in, he sat
under the shelving bank of the river, and kept dry. After the gale was
over, he calmly lay down in front of the tent on the saturated ground,
and was soon asleep. During the gale, our fire, which we had built to
keep off the myriads of mosquitoes, blew in every direction, and we had
to watch the embers to keep them from burning the tent. After all was
over, we snugged ourselves the best way we could in our small tent and
under the wagon, and slept soundly till daylight. Mr. Culbertson had
fixed himself pretty well, but on arising at daylight to smoke his pipe,
Squires immediately crept into his comfortable corner, and snored there
till the day was well begun. Mr. Culbertson had my knees for a pillow,
and also my hat, I believe, for in the morning, although the first were
not hurt, the latter was sadly out of shape in all parts. We had nothing
for our breakfast except some vile coffee, and about three quarters of a
sea-biscuit, which was soon settled among us. The men, poor fellows, had
nothing at all. Provost had seen two Deer, but had had no shot, so of
course we were in a quandary, but it is now--
_July 16, Sunday._ The weather pleasant with a fine breeze from the
westward, and all eyes were bent upon the hills and prairie, which is
here of great breadth, to spy if possible some object that might be
killed and eaten. Presently a Wolf was seen, and Owen went after it, and
it was not until he had disappeared below the first low range of hills,
and Owen also, that the latter came within shot of the rascal, which
dodged in all sorts of manners; but Owen would not give up, and after
shooting more than once, he killed the beast. A man had followed him to
help bring in the Wolf, and when near the river he saw a Buffalo, about
two miles off, grazing peaceably, as he perhaps thought, safe in his own
dominions; but, alas! white hunters had fixed their eyes upon him, and
from that moment his doom was pronounced. Mr. Culbertson threw down his
hat, bound his head with a handkerchief, his saddle was on his mare, he
was mounted and off and away at a swift gallop, more quickly than I can
describe, not towards the Buffalo, but towards the place where Owen had
killed the Wolf. The man brought the Wolf on old Peter, and Owen, who
was returning to the camp, heard the signal gun fired by Mr. Culbertson,
and at once altered his course; his mare was evidently a little heated
and blown by the Wolf chase, but both hunters went after the Buffalo,
slowly at first, to rest Owen's steed, but soon, when getting within
running distance, they gave whip, overhauled the Bison, and shot at it
twice with balls; this halted the animal; the hunters had no more
balls, and now loaded with pebbles, with which the poor beast was
finally killed. The wagon had been sent from the camp. Harris, Bell, and
Squires mounted on horseback, and travelled to the scene of action. They
met Mr. Culbertson returning to camp, and he told Bell the Buffalo was a
superb one, and had better be skinned. A man was sent to assist in the
skinning who had been preparing the Wolf which was now cooking, as we
had expected to dine upon its flesh; but when Mr. Culbertson returned,
covered with blood and looking like a wild Indian, it was decided to
throw it away; so I cut out the liver, and old Provost and I went
fishing and caught eighteen catfish. I hooked two tortoises, but put
them back in the river. I took a good swim, which refreshed me much, and
I came to dinner with a fine appetite. This meal consisted wholly of
fish, and we were all fairly satisfied. Before long the flesh of the
Buffalo reached the camp, as well as the hide. The animal was very fat,
and we have meat for some days. It was now decided that Squires,
Provost, and Basil (one of the men) should proceed down the river to the
Charbonneau, and there try their luck at Otters and Beavers, and the
rest of us, with the cart, would make our way back to the fort. All was
arranged, and at half-past three this afternoon we were travelling
towards Fort Union. But hours previous to this, and before our scanty
dinner, Owen had seen another bull, and Harris and Bell joined us in the
hunt. The bull was shot at by McKenzie, who stopped its career, but as
friend Harris pursued it with two of the hunters and finished it I was
about to return, and thought sport over for the day. However, at this
stage of the proceedings Owen discovered another bull making his way
slowly over the prairie towards us. I was the only one who had balls,
and would gladly have claimed the privilege of running him, but fearing
I might make out badly on my slower steed, and so lose meat which we
really needed, I handed my gun and balls to Owen McKenzie, and Bell and
I went to an eminence to view the chase. Owen approached the bull, which
continued to advance, and was now less than a quarter of a mile distant;
either it did not see, or did not heed him, and they came directly
towards each other, until they were about seventy or eighty yards apart,
when the Buffalo started at a good run, and Owen's mare, which had
already had two hard runs this morning, had great difficulty in
preserving her distance. Owen, perceiving this, breathed her a minute,
and then applying the whip was soon within shooting distance, and fired
a shot which visibly checked the progress of the bull, and enabled Owen
to soon be alongside of him, when the contents of the second barrel were
discharged into the lungs, passing through the shoulder blade. This
brought him to a stand. Bell and I now started at full speed, and as
soon as we were within speaking distance, called to Owen not to shoot
again. The bull did not appear to be much exhausted, but he was so
stiffened by the shot on the shoulder that he could not turn quickly,
and taking advantage of this we approached him; as we came near he
worked himself slowly round to face us, and then made a lunge at us; we
then stopped on one side and commenced discharging our pistols with
little or no effect, except to increase his fury with every shot. His
appearance was now one to inspire terror had we not felt satisfied of
our ability to avoid him. However, even so, I came very near being
overtaken by him. Through my own imprudence, I placed myself directly in
front of him, and as he advanced I fired at his head, and then ran
_ahead_ of him, instead of veering to one side, not supposing that he
was able to overtake me; but turning my head over my shoulder, I saw to
my horror, Mr. Bull within three feet of me, prepared to give me a taste
of his horns. The next instant I turned sharply off, and the Buffalo
being unable to turn quickly enough to follow me, Bell took the gun
from Owen and shot him directly behind the shoulder blade. He tottered
for a moment, with an increased jet of blood from the mouth and
nostrils, fell forward on his horns, then rolled over on his side, and
was dead. He was a very old animal, in poor case, and only part of him
was worth taking to the fort. Provost, Squires, and Basil were left at
the camp preparing for their departure after Otter and Beaver as
decided. We left them eight or nine catfish and a quantity of meat, of
which they took care to secure the best, namely the boss or hump. On our
homeward way we saw several Antelopes, some quite in the prairie, others
far away on the hills, but all of them on the alert. Owen tried
unsuccessfully to approach several of them at different times. At one
place where two were seen he dismounted, and went round a small hill
(for these animals when startled or suddenly alarmed always make to
these places), and we hoped would have had a shot; but alas! no! One of
the Antelopes ran off to the top of another hill, and the other stood
looking at him, and us perhaps, till Owen (who had been re-mounted)
galloped off towards us. My surprise was great when I saw the other
Antelope following him at a good pace (but not by bounds or leaps, as I
had been told by a former traveller they sometimes did), until it either
smelt him, or found out he was no friend, and turning round galloped
speedily off to join the one on the lookout. We saw seven or eight
Grouse, and Bell killed one on the ground. We saw a Sand-hill Crane
about two years old, looking quite majestic in a grassy bottom, but it
flew away before we were near enough to get a shot. We passed a fine
pond or small lake, but no bird was there. We saw several parcels of
Ducks in sundry places, all of which no doubt had young near. When we
turned the corner of the great prairie we found Owen's mare close by us.
She had run away while he was after Antelopes. We tied her to a log to
be ready for him when he should reach the spot. He had to walk about
three miles before he did this. However, to one as young and alert as
Owen, such things are nothing. Once they were not to me. We saw more
Antelope at a distance, here called "Cabris," and after a while we
reached the wood near the river, and finding abundance of
service-berries, we all got out to break branches of these plants, Mr.
Culbertson alone remaining in the wagon; he pushed on for the landing.
We walked after him munching our berries, which we found very good, and
reached the landing as the sun was going down behind the hills. Young
McKenzie was already there, having cut across the point. We decided on
crossing the river ourselves, and leaving all behind us except our guns.
We took to the ferry-boat, cordelled it up the river for a while, then
took to the nearest sand-bar, and leaping into the mud and water, hauled
the heavy boat, Bell and Harris steering and poling the while. I had
pulled off my shoes and socks, and when we reached the shore walked up
to the fort barefooted, and made my feet quite sore again; but we have
had a rest and a good supper, and I am writing in Mr. Culbertson's room,
thinking over all God's blessings on this delightful day.
_July 17, Monday._ A beautiful day, with a west wind. Sprague, who is
very industrious at all times, drew some flowers, and I have been busy
both writing and drawing. In the afternoon Bell went after Rabbits, but
saw one only, which he could not get, and Sprague walked to the hills
about two miles off, but could not see any portion of the Yellowstone
River, which Mr. Catlin has given in his view, as if he had been in a
balloon some thousands of feet above the earth. Two men arrived last
evening by land from Fort Pierre, and brought a letter, but no news of
any importance; one is a cook as well as a hunter, the other named
Wolff, a German, and a tinsmith by trade, though now a trapper.
_July 18, Tuesday._ When I went to bed last night the mosquitoes were
so numerous downstairs that I took my bed under my arm and went to a
room above, where I slept well. On going down this morning, I found two
other persons from Fort Pierre, and Mr. Culbertson very busy reading and
writing letters. Immediately after breakfast young McKenzie and another
man were despatched on mules, with a letter for Mr. Kipp, and Owen
expects to overtake the boat in three or four days. An Indian arrived
with a stolen squaw, both Assiniboins; and I am told such things are of
frequent occurrence among these sons of nature. Mr. Culbertson proposed
that we should take a ride to see the mowers, and Harris and I joined
him. We found the men at work, among them one called Bernard Adams, of
Charleston, S.C., who knew the Bachmans quite well, and who had read the
whole of the "Biographies of Birds." Leaving the men, we entered a
ravine in search of plants, etc., and having started an Owl, which I
took for the barred one, I left my horse and went in search of it, but
could not see it, and hearing a new note soon saw a bird not to be
mistaken, and killed it, when it proved, as I expected, to be the Rock
Wren; then I shot another sitting by the mouth of a hole. The bird did
not fly off; Mr. Culbertson watched it closely, but when the hole was
demolished no bird was to be found. Harris saw a Shrike, but of what
species he could not tell, and he also found some Rock Wrens in another
ravine. We returned to the fort and promised to visit the place this
afternoon, which we have done, and procured three more Wrens, and killed
the Owl, which proves to be precisely the resemblance of the Northern
specimen of the Great Horned Owl, which we published under another name.
The Rock Wren, which might as well be called the Ground Wren, builds its
nest in holes, and now the young are well able to fly, and we procured
one in the act. In two instances we saw these birds enter a hole here,
and an investigation showed a passage or communication, and on my
pointing out a hole to Bell where one had entered, he pushed his arm in
and touched the little fellow, but it escaped by running up his arm and
away it flew. Black clouds now arose in the west, and we moved
homewards. Harris and Bell went to the mowers to get a drink of water,
and we reached home without getting wet, though it rained violently for
some time, and the weather is much cooler. Not a word yet from Provost
and Squires.
_July 19, Wednesday._ Squires and Provost returned early this morning,
and again I give the former my journal that I may have the account of
the hunt in his own words. "As Mr. Audubon has said, he left Provost,
Basil, and myself making ready for our voyage down the Yellowstone. The
party for the fort were far in the blue distance ere we bid adieu to our
camping-ground. We had wished the return party a pleasant ride and safe
arrival at the fort as they left us, looking forward to a good supper,
and what I _now_ call a comfortable bed. We seated ourselves around some
boiled Buffalo hump, which, as has been before said, we took good care
to appropriate to ourselves according to the established rule of this
country, which is, 'When you can, take the best,' and we had done so in
this case, more to our satisfaction than to that of the hunters. Our
meal finished, we packed everything we had in the skiff, and were soon
on our way down the Yellowstone, happy as could be; Provost acting
pilot, Basil oarsman, and your humble servant seated on a Buffalo robe,
quietly smoking, and looking on the things around. We found the general
appearance of the Yellowstone much like the Missouri, but with a
stronger current, and the water more muddy. After a voyage of two hours
Charbonneau River made its appearance, issuing from a clump of willows;
the mouth of this river we found to be about ten feet wide, and so
shallow that we were obliged to push our boat over the slippery mud for
about forty feet. This passed, we entered a pond formed by the
contraction of the mouth and the collection of mud and sticks
thereabouts, the pond so formed being six or eight feet deep, and about
fifty feet wide, extending about a mile up the river, which is very
crooked indeed. For about half a mile from the Yellowstone the shore is
lined with willows, beyond which is a level prairie, and on the shores
of the stream just beyond the willows are a few scattered trees. About a
quarter of a mile from the mouth of the river, we discovered what we
were in search of, the Beaver lodge. To measure it was impossible, as it
was not perfect, in the first place, in the next it was so muddy that we
could not get ashore, but as well as I can I will describe it. The lodge
is what is called the summer lodge; it was comprised wholly of brush,
willow chiefly, with a single hole for the entrance and exit of the
Beaver. The pile resembled, as much as anything to which I can compare
it, a brush heap about six feet high, and about ten or fifteen feet
base, and standing seven or eight feet from the water. There were a few
Beaver tracks about, which gave us some encouragement. We proceeded to
our camping-ground on the edge of the prairie; here we landed all our
baggage; while Basil made a fire, Provost and I started to set our
traps--the two extremes of hunters, the skilful old one, and the
ignorant pupil; but I was soon initiated in the art of setting Beaver
traps, and to the uninitiated let me say, '_First_, find your game,
_then_ catch it,' if you can. The first we did, the latter we tried to
do. We proceeded to the place where the greatest number of tracks were
seen, and commenced operations. At the place where the path enters the
water, and about four inches beneath the surface, a level place is made
in the mud, upon which the trap is placed, the chain is then fastened to
a stake which is firmly driven in the ground under water. The end of a
willow twig is then chewed and dipped in the 'Medicine Horn,' which
contains the bait; this consists of castoreum mixed with spices; a
quantity is collected on the chewed end of the twig, the stick is then
placed or stuck in the mud on the edge of the water, leaving the part
with the bait about two inches above the surface and in front of the
trap; on each side the bait and about six inches from it, two dried
twigs are placed in the ground; this done, all's done, and we are ready
for the visit of Monsieur Castor. We set two traps, and returned to our
camp, where we had supper, then pitched our tent and soon were sound
asleep, but before we were asleep we heard a Beaver dive, and slap his
tail, which sounded like the falling of a round stone in the water; here
was encouragement again. In the morning (Monday) we examined our traps
and found--nothing. We did not therefore disturb the traps, but examined
farther up the river, where we discovered other tracks and resolved to
set our traps there, as Provost concluded that there was but one Beaver,
and that a male. We returned to camp and made a good breakfast on
Buffalo meat and coffee, _sans_ salt, _sans_ pepper, _sans_ sugar,
_sans_ anything else of any kind. After breakfast Provost shot a doe. In
the afternoon we removed one trap, Basil and I gathered some
wild-gooseberries which I stewed for supper, and made a sauce, which,
though _rather acid_, was very good with our meat. The next morning,
after again examining our traps and finding nothing, we decided to raise
camp, which was accordingly done; everything was packed in the skiff,
and we proceeded to the mouth of the river. The water had fallen so much
since we had entered, as to oblige us to strip, jump in the mud, and
haul the skiff over; rich and rare was the job; the mud was about half
thigh deep, and a kind of greasy, sticky, black stuff, with a something
about it so very peculiar as to be _rather_ unpleasant; however, we did
not mind much, and at last got into the Yellowstone, scraped and washed
the mud off, and encamped on a prairie about one hundred yards below
the Charbonneau. It was near sunset; Provost commenced fishing; we
joined him, and in half an hour we caught sixteen catfish, quite large
ones. During the day Provost started to the Mauvaises Terres to hunt
Bighorns, but returned unsuccessful. He baited his traps for the last
time. During his absence thunder clouds were observed rising all around
us; we stretched our tent, removed everything inside it, ate our supper
of meat and coffee, and then went to bed. It rained some part of the
night, but not enough to wet through the tent. The next morning
(Tuesday) at daylight, Provost started to examine his traps, while we at
the camp put everything in the boat, and sat down to await his return,
when we proceeded on our voyage down the Yellowstone to Fort Mortimer,
and from thence by land to Fort Union. Nothing of any interest occurred
except that we saw two does, one young and one buck of the Bighorns; I
fired at the buck which was on a high cliff about a hundred and fifty
yards from us; I fired above it to allow for the falling of the ball,
but the gun shot so well as to carry where I aimed. The animal was a
very large buck; Provost says one of the largest he had seen. As soon as
I fired he started and ran along the side of the hill which looked
almost perpendicular, and I was much astonished, not only at the feat,
but at the surprising quickness with which he moved along, with no
apparent foothold. We reached Fort Mortimer about seven o'clock; I left
Basil and Provost with the skiff, and I started for Fort Union on foot
to send a cart for them. On my way I met Mr. Audubon about to pay a
visit to Fort Mortimer; I found all well, despatched the cart, changed
my clothes, and feel none the worse for my five days' camping, and quite
ready for a dance I hear we are to have to-night."
This morning as I walked to Fort Mortimer, meeting Squires as he has
said, well and happy as a Lark, I was surprised to see a good number of
horses saddled, and packed in different ways, and I hastened on to find
what might be the matter. When I entered the miserable house in which
Mr. Collins sleeps and spends his time when not occupied out of doors,
he told me thirteen men and seven squaws were about to start for the
lakes, thirty-five miles off, to kill Buffaloes and dry their meat, as
the last his hunters brought in was already putrid. I saw the cavalcade
depart in an E.N.E. direction, remained a while, and then walked back.
Mr. Collins promised me half a dozen balls from young animals. Provost
was discomfited and crestfallen at the failure of the Beaver hunt; he
brought half a doe and about a dozen fine catfish. Mr. Culbertson and I
are going to see the mowers, and to-morrow we start on a grand Buffalo
hunt, and hope for Antelopes, Wolves, and Foxes.
_July 20, Thursday._ We were up early, and had our breakfast shortly
after four o'clock, and before eight had left the landing of the fort,
and were fairly under way for the prairies. Our equipment was much the
same as before, except that we had two carts this time. Mr. C. drove
Harris, Bell, and myself, and the others rode on the carts and led the
hunting horses, or runners, as they are called here. I observed a Rabbit
running across the road, and saw some flowers different from any I had
ever seen. After we had crossed a bottom prairie, we ascended between
the high and rough ravines until we were on the rolling grounds of the
plains. The fort showed well from this point, and we also saw a good
number of Antelopes, and some young ones. These small things run even
faster than the old ones. As we neared the Fox River some one espied
four Buffaloes, and Mr. C., taking the telescope, showed them to me,
lying on the ground. Our heads and carts were soon turned towards them,
and we travelled within half a mile of them, concealed by a ridge or
hill which separated them from us. The wind was favorable, and we moved
on slowly round the hill, the hunters being now mounted. Harris and Bell
had their hats on, but Owen and Mr. Culbertson had their heads bound
with handkerchiefs. With the rest of the party I crawled on the ridge,
and saw the bulls running away, but in a direction favorable for us to
see the chase. On the word of command the horses were let loose, and
away went the hunters, who soon were seen to gain on the game; two bulls
ran together and Mr. C. and Bell followed after them, and presently one
after another of the hunters followed them. Mr. C. shot first, and his
bull stopped at the fire, walked towards where I was, and halted about
sixty yards from me. His nose was within a few inches of the ground; the
blood poured from his mouth, nose, and side, his tail hung down, but his
legs looked as firm as ever, but in less than two minutes the poor beast
fell on his side, and lay quite dead. Bell and Mr. Culbertson went after
the second. Harris took the third, and Squires the fourth. Bell's shot
took effect in the buttock, and Mr. Culbertson shot, placing his ball a
few inches above or below Bell's; after this Mr. Culbertson ran no more.
At this moment Squires's horse threw him over his head, fully ten feet;
he fell on his powder-horn and was severely bruised; he cried to Harris
to catch his horse, and was on his legs at once, but felt sick for a few
minutes. Harris, who was as cool as a cucumber, neared his bull, shot it
through the lungs, and it fell dead on the spot. Bell was now seen in
full pursuit of his game, and Harris joined Squires, and f
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