Hoyle's Games Modernized
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Title: Hoyle's Games Modernized
Author: Professor Hoffmann
Edmond Hoyle
Release date: April 13, 2012 [eBook #39445]
Language: English
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HOYLE'S GAMES MODERNIZED
Edited by
PROFESSOR HOFFMANN
NEW EDITION (Reset)
Thoroughly Revised to 1909
With the addition of Chapters on AUCTION BRIDGE and Three other New Games
by
ERNEST BERGHOLT
And with New Chapters on ROULETTE and TRENTE ET QUARANTE
BY CAPTAIN BROWNING
("Slambo" of _The Westminster Gazette_)
With Diagrams
London
George Routledge and Sons, Limited
New York: E. P. Dutton & Co.
1909
{v}
PREFACE
To the present generation the name of Edmond Hoyle conveys but a vague
meaning, though the phrase "according to Hoyle" is still now and then used
as a synonym for correct play in a card-game.
Hoyle was in fact the "Cavendish" of his day, and was in many ways a man of
special mark. He was born in 1672, and died in 1769, having outlived
half-a-dozen monarchs. Of his earlier life little is known. He is said to
have been called to the Bar, though whether he ever practised as an
advocate is uncertain. In 1742 he was living in Queen's Square, and giving
lessons in whist-play, which he was the first to reduce to a scientific
method. He had up to that time communicated his system either personally,
or in the form of manuscript, but in that year he for the first time
published his memorable "Short Treatise on the Game of Whist." Of this
first edition only two copies (one in the Bodleian Library) are known to
exist. Its price was a guinea. It was freely pirated, and this fact was
probably the reason that the succeeding editions, of which there were three
published in 1743, were issued at the more modest price of two {vi}
shillings, each genuine copy being guaranteed by the autograph of the
author. Other editions followed, several of which are only now represented
by single copies. Of the seventh edition, published in 1747, no copy
exists. The eighth (1748) embodied, in addition to the Whist manual, short
treatises on Quadrille, Piquet, and Backgammon, which had in the meantime
appeared separately. The book was from time to time further amplified, and
the eleventh edition (precise date uncertain) is entitled "Mr. Hoyle's
Games of Whist, Quadrille, Piquet, Chess and Backgammon Complete." The
autograph signature to each copy was continued until Hoyle's death. In the
fifteenth edition it is replaced by an impression from a wood block.
It is significant of the respect in which Hoyle was held, that his Laws of
Whist, with some slight alterations by the _habitues_ of White's and
Saunders' chocolate-houses (the then headquarters of the game), were
accepted as the final authority from 1760 till 1864, when the basis of the
present code, settled by the Turf and Portland Clubs, was adopted in their
stead.
Nothing would now be gained by reproducing Hoyle's original text. In the
present volume no attempt is made to do so. Its teachings are, however, but
the teachings of the master, amplified and brought up-to-date, and it is a
fitting tribute to his memory that his name should be retained upon the
title-page.
LOUIS HOFFMANN.
{vii}
PREFACE
TO THE REVISED EDITION OF 1909
The articles on Whist and Bridge have been rewritten and brought thoroughly
up-to-date. Those on Billiards, Pool, and Snooker Pool have been completely
revised, and all the recent changes in Rules have been either incorporated
or quoted. Entirely new chapters have been added on Auction Bridge, Five
Hundred, Quinto, and Poker Patience.
For the articles specially written for this New Edition on Roulette and
Trente et Quarante, the able pen of Captain Browning is responsible.
ERNEST BERGHOLT.
{ix}
CONTENTS
PAGE
ALL FOURS
The Scoring Items 1
Method of Playing 2
Four-handed All Fours 3
BACCARAT
Baccarat Chemin de Fer 5
Baccarat Banque 8
BEZIQUE
The Old-fashioned Game 12
Hints for Play 15
Rubicon Bezique 17
The Laws of Rubicon Bezique 22
BLIND HOOKEY 32
CRIBBAGE 34
The Five-card Game 35
The Six-card Game 49
The Seven-card Game 50
Three-handed Cribbage 51
Four-handed Cribbage 51
ECARTE 53
The Laws of Ecarte 53
French Terms used in Ecarte 61
Illustrative Game 61
Jeux de Regle 63
{x}
EUCHRE 68
Two-handed Euchre 69
Four-handed Euchre 70
Three-handed Euchre 72
Marking the Score 72
Hints for Play 73
LOO
Three-card Loo 86
Five-card Loo 89
The Laws of Loo 91
NAPOLEON
The Orthodox Game 94
The Variations 96
The Game Explained for Novices 99
The Numbers of Players 102
PIQUET
The Deal 104
Discarding and Taking in 105
Calling 105
The Play 107
Carte Blanche 111
Repique 111
Pique 112
Capot 112
The Final Score 113
Application of Skill 115
POKER
The Varieties of the Game 120
Draw Poker 120
{xi}
The Probabilities of the Various Combinations 130
The Straddle 131
Jack-pots 132
Table Stakes 133
Straight Poker 134
Stud Poker 134
Whiskey Poker 135
Mistigris 136
The Tiger 136
POPE JOAN 137
SOLO WHIST
Description of the Game 142
The Stakes 147
A Digest of the Laws 149
A Few Maxims 154
VINGT-UN 157
French Vingt-Un 163
WHIST
The Laws of Whist 166
The Etiquette of Whist 183
Dummy 184
Double Dummy 185
How to become a Good Player 185
Leads 191
Return Leads 195
Second in Hand 196
What to Play Third Hand 198
The Play of the Fourth Hand 201
The Call for Trumps 201
{xii}
The Echo to the Call 203
Discarding 204
The Use and Abuse of Trumps 205
Underplay 208
False Cards 209
How to Play Whist 210
Unblocking 212
Placing the Lead 214
The Play of the Twelfth and Thirteenth Cards 218
Maxims 219
Books on Whist 222
BRIDGE
Relation to Whist 223
The Score in Actual Practice 224
Hints for Play 227
The Laws of Bridge (1904) 228
Books on Bridge 246
AUCTION BRIDGE 247
The Laws of Auction Bridge 248
Hints to Players 252
General Remarks 254
FIVE HUNDRED 257
Revokes 261
Book on Five Hundred 262
QUINTO 263
Dummy (or Three-Handed) Quinto 266
Book on Quinto 266
POKER PATIENCE 267
Serpent Poker Patience 268
{xiii}
BACKGAMMON
The Board and Men 271
Playing 273
Bearing off the Men 275
Hints for Play 277
BAGATELLE
The Appliances of the Game 281
How to Play 284
BILLIARDS
The Implements of the Game, and Terms
used in connection with it 287
The Half-ball Stroke 293, 298
Losing Hazards into the Top Pockets
from Baulk 302
Middle-Pocket Hazards 305
Position 307
Losing Hazards 308
Winning Hazards 309
Cannons 311
The Billiards Control Club Rules 320
Pyramids 321
Shell Out 322
Works of Reference 323
POOL
General Counsels 324
The National Rules of Pool 325
SNOOKER POOL
Description of the Game 331
The National Rules of Snooker Pool 332
{xiv}
CHESS
The Board and Men 336
The Movements of the Men and their Power
to Take 337
Chess Notation 343
Example 345
Technical Terms used in the Game 347
Value of the Pieces 352
The Openings 353
The Giuoco Piano 354
The Evans Gambit 363
The Evans Gambit Declined 371
The Two Knights' Defence 373
The Ruy Lopez 377
Philidor's Defence 381
Three Knights' Game 383
Four Knights' Game 384
The Vienna Opening 385
The Steinitz Gambit 386
The Scotch Game 387
The Scotch Gambit 389
The Danish and Centre Gambits 391
Petroff's Defence 392
The King's Gambits
The King's Knight's Gambit 393
The Muzio Gambit 394
The Salvio Gambit 396
The Kieseritzky Gambit 397
The Allgaier Gambit 398
The Cunningham Gambit 400
The Bishop's Gambit 400
The Gambit declined 403
{xv}
Close Games 405
The French Defence 406
The Sicilian Defence 408
The Queen's Gambit 409
The Fianchetto 409
The End Game
King and Pawn against King 410
King and Queen against King 415
King and Two Rooks against King 417
King and Rook against King 418
King and Two Bishops against King 419
King, Bishop and Knight against King 420
End Game with Two Knights 423
General Observations 424
Bibliography of Chess 425
DRAUGHTS
The Rules of the Game 427
General Advice 432
Names of the Various Openings and how Formed 433
End Games
Two Kings to One 436
Three Kings to Two 437
The Elementary Positions
First Position 439
Second Position 441
Third Position 443
Fourth Position 445
Works of Reference 446
ROULETTE
Description of the Game 447
{xvi}
The Different Modes of Staking 449
Systems
The "_Montant et Demontant_" System 455
The Fitzroy System 455
The "_Labouchere_" System 456
TRENTE ET QUARANTE
Description of the Game 464
Staking 465
Method of Play 469
{1}
HOYLE'S GAMES
MODERNIZED
ALL-FOURS.
ALL-FOURS, known in America as OLD SLEDGE, or SEVEN UP, is usually played
by two players, with the full pack of fifty-two cards, which rank in play
as at Whist, the ace being the highest, and the two the lowest. The game is
seven points.
There are four different items which count towards the score, whence the
name _All-Fours_. Such items are as follows:
_High._--The highest trump out, scoring one to the original holder.
_Low._--The lowest trump out, scoring one to the original holder.
_Jack._--The knave of trumps, scoring one to the dealer, if turned up; if
otherwise, to the winner of the trick to which it falls.
_Game._--Scoring one to the ultimate holder of the more valuable cards in
the tricks won by him, according to the following scale:--
For each ten (trump or otherwise) 10
For each ace " 4
For each king " 3
For each queen " 2
For each knave " 1
{2}
N.B.--In the case of the players being equal in this particular, or of
neither party holding any card which counts towards Game, the elder
hand scores the point.
METHOD OF PLAYING.
The players cut for deal, the highest card having the preference.[1] The
dealer gives six cards to each, turning up the thirteenth as trump. If the
elder hand is dissatisfied with his cards, he may say, "I beg," in which
case the dealer is bound either to allow him (by the phrase, "Take one") to
score one point, or to give each player three more cards from the pack,
turning up that next following by way of fresh trump card. If this should
be of the same suit as the original trump, the dealer is bound to give
three more cards to each, again turning up the seventh, until a new suit
does actually turn up. If the turn-up card be a knave, the dealer scores
one, this taking precedence of any other score. If, by reason of the elder
hand "begging," there is a further deal, and the dealer a second time turns
up a knave, he again scores one. The elder hand leads any card he pleases.
His antagonist must follow suit or trump, his right to do the latter not
being affected by his holding cards of the suit led. If, however, having a
card of the suit led, he neither follows suit nor trumps, he becomes liable
to the penalty of a revoke.
The player of the highest card of the suit led, or a trump, wins the trick,
which is turned down as at {3} Whist, and so on throughout the six tricks.
In scoring, the order of precedence is (1) High, (2) Low, (3) Jack, (4)
Game; subject, as we have seen, to the contingency of "Jack" having been
the turn-up card, the point for this being scored before the hand is
played.
The play is mainly directed to capturing the Jack, and such cards as may
score towards Game.
Some players score a point whenever the adversary does not follow suit or
trump. Some, again, make it the rule that each player must count his score
without looking at his tricks, under penalty of losing one or more points,
as may be agreed, in the event of a miscalculation.
FOUR-HANDED ALL-FOURS.
The players cut to decide who shall be partners; the two highest playing
against the two lowest, and facing each other, as at Whist. The right to
the first deal is decided by the cut, the highest dealing.[2] Afterwards
each player deals in rotation.
The dealer and the elder hand alone look at their cards in the first
instance, the option of begging resting with the latter. The other two
players must not take up their cards till the dealer has decided whether he
will "give one" or "run the cards" for a new trump.
The players play in succession as at Whist, four cards constituting a
trick. In other respects, the play is the same as in the two-handed
game.[3]
* * * * *
{4}
BACCARAT.[4]
Baccarat has many points of resemblance to Vingt-un, but the element of
chance is much more prominent. The stakes are made before any card is
dealt, and one player plays for several. There is therefore, save on the
part of the banker, scarcely any scope for personal skill or judgment.
The object of the game is to hold such cards as shall together amount to
the point of _nine_. The cards from ace to nine count each according to the
number of its pips. Court cards are equivalent to tens, and ten at this
game is _baccarat_, a synonym for zero. Thus a player holding a three and a
ten (or court card) is considered to have three only; a player holding two
tens and a five counts five only. And not only is a tenth card baccarat
(0), but ten occurring as part of a total score, however made, is
disregarded; so that a five and a six count, not as eleven, but as one
only; three, seven and five, not as fifteen, but as five; and so on.
There are two forms of Baccarat, known respectively as _Baccarat Chemin de
Fer_ and _Baccarat_ {5} _Banque_, the latter being the version more
frequently played. A description of Baccarat Chemin de Fer will, however,
be the best introduction to the explanation of Baccarat Banque, and we
therefore take it first in order.
BACCARAT CHEMIN DE FER.
Six full packs of cards of the same pattern are used, shuffled together.
The players seat themselves round the table. In the centre is a basket for
the reception of the used cards. If there is any question as to the
relative positions of the players, it is decided by lot. The person who
draws the first place seats himself next on the right hand of the croupier,
and the rest follow in succession. The croupier shuffles the cards, and
then passes them on, each player having the right to shuffle in turn. When
they have made the circuit of the table, the croupier again shuffles, and,
having done so, offers the cards to the player on his left, who cuts. The
croupier places the cards before him, and, taking a manageable quantity
from the top, hands it to the player on his right, who for the time being
is dealer, or "banker." The other players are punters. The dealer places
before him the amount he is disposed to risk, and the players "make their
stakes." Any punter, beginning with the player on the immediate right of
the dealer, is entitled to "go bank," viz. to play against the whole of the
banker's stake. If no one says "Banco" (which is the formula by which the
desire to go bank is expressed), each player places his stake before him.
If the total so staked by the seated players is not equal to the amount for
the {6} time being in the bank, other persons standing round may stake in
addition. If it is more than equal to the amount in the bank, the punters
nearest in order to the banker have the preference up to such amount, the
banker having the right to decline any stake in excess of that limit.
The stakes being made, the banker proceeds to deal four cards, face
downwards, the first, for the punters, to the right; the second to himself;
the third for the punters, the fourth to himself. The player who has the
highest stake represents the punters. If two punters are equal in this
respect, the player first in rotation has the preference. Each then looks
at his cards. If he finds that they make either _nine_, the highest point
at Baccarat, or _eight_, the next highest, he turns them up, announcing the
number aloud, and the hand is at an end.
If the banker's point is the better, the stakes of the punter become the
property of the bank. If the punters' point is the better, the banker (or
the croupier for him) pays each punter the amount of his stake. The stakes
are made afresh, and the game proceeds. If the banker has been the winner,
he deals again. If otherwise, the cards are passed to the player next in
order, who thereupon becomes banker in his turn.
We will now take the case that neither party turns up his cards; this is
tantamount to an admission that neither has eight or nine. In such case the
banker is bound to offer a third card. If the point of the punter is
baccarat (_i.e._ cards together amounting to ten or twenty, = 0), one, two,
three, or four, he accepts as a matter of course, replying, "Yes," or
"Card." A third card is then given to {7} him, face upwards. If his point
is already six or seven, he will, equally as a matter of course, _refuse_
the offered card. To accept a card with six or seven, or refuse with
baccarat, one, two, three, or four (known in either case as a "false
draw"), is a breach of the established procedure of the game, and brings
down upon the head of the offender the wrath of his fellow-punters; indeed,
in some circles he is made liable for any loss they may incur thereby, and
in others is punishable by a fine. At the point of five, and no other, is
it optional to the punter whether to take a card or not; nobody has the
right to advise him, or to remark upon his decision.
The banker has now to decide whether he himself will draw a card, being
guided in his decision partly by the cards he already holds, partly by the
card (if any) drawn by the punter, and partly by what he may know or guess
of the latter's mode of play. If he has hesitated over his decision, the
banker may be pretty certain (unless such hesitation was an intentional
blind) that his original point was five, and as the third card (if any) is
exposed, his present point becomes equally a matter of certainty. The
banker, having drawn or not drawn, as he may elect, exposes his cards, and
receives or pays as the case may be. Ties neither win nor lose, but the
stakes abide the result of the next hand.
The banker is not permitted to withdraw any part of his winnings, which go
to increase the amount in the bank. Should he at any given moment desire to
retire, he says, "I pass the deal." In such case each of the other players,
in rotation, has the option of taking it, but he must start the bank with
the same amount at which it stood when the last banker {8} retired. Should
no one present care to risk so high a figure, the deal passes to the player
next on the right hand of the retiring banker, who is in such case at
liberty to start the bank with such amount as he thinks fit, the late
banker now being regarded as last in order of rotation, though the
respective priorities are not otherwise affected.
A player who has "gone bank," and lost, is entitled to do so again on the
next hand, notwithstanding that the deal may have "passed" to another
player.
When the first supply of cards is exhausted, the croupier takes a fresh
handful from the heap before him, has them cut by the player on his left,
and hands them to the banker. To constitute a valid deal, there must be not
less than seven cards left in the dealer's hand. Should the cards in hand
fall below this number, they are thrown into the waste-basket, and the
banker takes a fresh supply as above mentioned.
BACCARAT BANQUE.
In Baccarat Chemin de Fer, it will have been noticed that a given bank only
continues so long as the banker wins. So soon as he loses, it passes to
another player. In Baccarat Banque the position of banker is much more
permanent. _Three_ packs of cards,[5] shuffled together, are in this case
used, and the banker (unless he retires either of his own free will, or by
reason of the exhaustion of his finances) {9} holds office until the whole
of such cards have been dealt.
The bank is at the outset put up to auction, _i.e._ belongs to the player
who will undertake to risk the largest amount. In some circles, the person
who has first set down his name on the list of players has the right to
hold the first bank, risking such amount as he may think proper.
The right to begin having been ascertained, the banker takes his place
midway down one of the sides of an oval table, the croupier facing him,
with the waste-basket between. On either side the banker are the punters,
ten such constituting a full table. Any other persons desiring to take part
remain standing, and can only play in the event of the amount in the bank
for the time being not being covered by the seated players.
The croupier, having shuffled the cards, hands them for the same purpose to
the players to the right and left of him, the banker being entitled to
shuffle them last, and to select the person by whom they shall be cut. Each
punter having made his stake, the banker deals three cards, the first to
the player on his right, the second to the player on his left, and the
third to himself; then three more in like manner. The five punters on the
right (and any bystanders staking with them) win or lose by the cards dealt
to that side; the five others by the cards dealt to the left side. The
rules as to turning up with eight or nine, offering and accepting cards,
and so on, are the same as at Baccarat Chemin de Fer.
Each punter continues to hold the cards for his side so long as he wins. If
he lose, the next {10} hand is dealt to the player next following him in
rotation.
Any player may "go bank," the first claim to do so belonging to the punter
immediately on the right of the banker; the next to the player on his left,
and so on alternatively in regular order. If two players on opposite sides
desire to "go bank," they go half shares.
A player going bank may either do so on a single hand, in the ordinary
course, or _a cheval_, _i.e._ on two hands separately, one-half of the
stake being played upon each hand. A player going bank and losing, may
again go bank; and if he again loses, may go bank a third time, but not
further.
A player undertaking to hold the bank must play out one hand, but may
retire at any time afterwards. On retiring, he is bound to state the amount
with which he retires. It is then open to any other player (in order of
rotation) to continue the bank, starting with the same amount, and dealing
from the remainder of the pack used by his predecessor. The outgoing banker
takes the place previously occupied by his successor.
The breaking of the bank does not deprive the banker of the right to
continue, provided that he has funds wherewith to replenish it, up to the
agreed _minimum_.
Should the stakes of the punters exceed the amount for the time being in
the bank, the banker is not responsible for the amount of such excess. In
the event of his losing, the croupier pays the punters in order of
rotation, so far as the funds in the bank will extend; beyond this, they
have no claim. The banker, may, however, in such a case, instead of {11}
resting on his right, declare the stakes accepted, forthwith putting up the
needful funds to meet them. In such event the bank thenceforth becomes
unlimited, and the banker must hold all stakes (to whatever amount) offered
on any subsequent hand, or give up the bank.[6]
* * * * *
{12}
BEZIQUE.
Bezique is a game for two players. The piquet pack of thirty-two cards is
used, but in duplicate, two such packs of like pattern being shuffled
together.
The players cut for deal, the _highest_ card having the preference. The
rank of the cards in cutting (as also in play) is as under: ace, _ten_,
king, queen, knave, nine, eight, seven. Eight cards are dealt (by three,
two, and three) to each player; the seventeenth card being turned up by way
of trump, and placed between the two players. The remaining cards, known as
the "stock," are placed face downwards beside it. Should the turn-up card
be a seven, the dealer scores ten.
The non-dealer leads and the dealer plays to such lead any card he pleases.
If he play a higher card (according to the scale above given) of the same
suit, or a trump, he wins the trick; but he is not bound to do either, or
even to follow suit. Further, he is at liberty to trump, even though
holding a card of the suit led. If the two cards played are the same
(_e.g._ two nines of diamonds), the trick belongs to the leader. {13}
The winner of one trick leads to the next, but before doing so he marks any
points to which his hand may entitle him, leaving the cards so marked on
the table, and draws one card from the top of the stock. His opponent draws
a card in like manner, and so the game proceeds until the stock is
exhausted.
The holder of the seven of trumps is entitled to exchange it for the
turn-up card, at the same time scoring ten for it. The holder of the
duplicate seven of trumps scores ten for it, but gains no further benefit
thereby.
The game is usually 1000 up, but, as the score proceeds by tens or
multiples of ten, this number is pretty quickly reached.
At the earlier stage of the game, the player scores for the cards he holds
in his hand; certain cards or combinations of cards, duly "declared,"
entitling him to score so many points, as under:--
Points.
For the seven of trumps, turned up by the
dealer, or declared by either player 10
For the second seven of trumps 10
For the last (_i.e._ thirty-second) trick 10
For a Common Marriage, _i.e._ king and
queen of any plain suit, declared together 20
For a Royal Marriage, _i.e._ king and queen
of the trump suit, declared together 40
For Single Bezique (queen of spades and
knave of diamonds) 40
For Double Bezique--the same combination
again declared by same player with fresh
cards. (additional) 500
For Four Knaves (of any suits, _e.g._ two
knaves of spades and two of hearts), duly
declared 40
For Four Queens, duly declared 60
For Four Kings, duly declared 80
{14}
For Four Aces, duly declared 100
For Sequence of five best trumps--ace, ten,
king, queen, knave 250
Brisques--aces or tens in the tricks won by
either player, _each_[7] 10
In order to score, the cards composing the given combination must be all at
the same time in the hand of the player. A card played to a trick is no
longer available (unless a brisque) to score.
A player can only "declare" after winning a trick. Having won a trick, he
is at liberty to score any combination he may hold, laying the cards
forming it face upwards on the table. If the cards exposed show two
combinations he may declare both, but must elect which of them he will
score, reserving the other till he again wins a trick. Thus, having king
and queen of spades and knave of diamonds on the table, he would say, "I
score 40 for Bezique, and 20 to score." When he has again won a trick,
having meanwhile retained the needful cards unplayed, he can then score the
second combination (Marriage).
A card which has once scored cannot be again used to form part of a
combination of _the same kind_: _e.g._ a queen once used to form a Marriage
cannot again figure in a Marriage, though it may still score as part of a
Sequence, or as one of "Four Queens." In like manner, a card which has once
figured in "Bezique" cannot be used to form part of a second Bezique,
though it may be used to score Double Bezique. Neither can a card which has
been {15} declared in a given combination again be declared in a
combination of an inferior order; _e.g._ if a king and queen have been
declared as part of a Sequence, a Marriage cannot afterwards be declared
with the same cards--though their having figured in a Marriage would be no
bar to their subsequent use as part of a Sequence.
The declared cards, though left face upwards on the table, still form part
of the hand, and are played to subsequent tricks at the pleasure of the
holder.
When no more cards are left in the stock, the method of play alters. No
further declarations can be made, and the only additional score now
possible is for the brisques (aces or tens) in the remaining tricks (scored
by the winner of the trick), with ten for the last trick, as before stated.
The mode of play as to these last eight tricks is according to Whist rules.
Each player must now follow suit, if he can; if not, he is at liberty to
trump.[8]
HINTS FOR PLAY.
In the earlier stage of the game, tricks are of no value save in so far as
they contain brisques, or enable the winner to "declare," the scoring of
the different combinations being the main object of the game. The player
will probably at the outset find that he has in hand _some_ of the
component parts of two or more combinations; but as he must furnish a card
to each trick, he will be forced to abandon {16} the one or the other. In
choosing between them, two points should be considered; viz. first, the
value of the combination, and, secondly, the prospect of making it. As to
the last point, he may derive important information from the cards declared
by his opponent. Suppose, for instance, that he holds a queen of spades and
two knaves of diamonds. These he would naturally retain at any cost, in the
hope of making Double Bezique; but should his adversary declare a marriage
in spades, showing that he holds the remaining queen of that suit, all hope
of Double Bezique is clearly at an end. In the case supposed, it would be
the policy of the opponent, knowing or suspecting that Double Bezique was
aimed at, to keep the queen of spades in his hand as long as he possibly
could, even at some considerable sacrifice.
When a brisque is led, the second player should win the trick if he can do
so without too great a cost, for, though a brisque only scores ten to the
winner, the capture of the trick means a loss of ten to the opposite party,
and practically, therefore, makes a difference of twenty to the score.
Unless a brisque be led, or you have something to declare, pass the trick
or win it with a brisque. The best cards to throw away are the sevens,
eights, nines, and knaves of plain suits (other than the knave of diamonds,
which should be retained on the chance of making Bezique).
It is generally better to risk losing an ace than a queen or king, the two
latter having the greater chance of scoring.
If you chance to hold three aces at an early stage of the game, with no
prospect of a more valuable combination, retain them, in the hope of
drawing a {17} fourth. In any other case, make tricks with aces in plain
suits whenever you can.
"Sequence" cards should be kept in reserve as long as possible. A duplicate
of a sequence card, though valueless for scoring purposes, should still be
held up, as the uncertainty respecting it may hamper your opponent.
Even more important than sequence cards are the bezique cards. After
scoring Bezique, the declared cards should still be retained until it
becomes clear that Double Bezique is unattainable.
At a late period of the game, when the opportunities for declaration are
growing limited, it is often wise to declare (say) Double Bezique without
previously declaring single Bezique, or Sequence without previously
declaring a Royal Marriage. If you declare the smaller score, and do not
again win a trick, you lose the larger score altogether.
When the stock is nearly exhausted, take a trick whenever you can, as you
thereby deprive the adversary of the opportunity of scoring his remaining
cards. Note at this stage the exposed cards of the adversary, as you will
thereby play the last eight tricks to greater advantage.
In the play of the last eight tricks, your main object is to make your
brisques, and capture those of the enemy. Reserve, if possible, a good
trump wherewith to secure the last trick.
RUBICON BEZIQUE.
"Rubicon" or "Japanese" Bezique is a modification of the ordinary game,
which has for some years found much favour in Paris. In 1887, a code of
{18} laws, which we append, was drawn up by a committee of the Portland
Club, and Rubicon Bezique may now be regarded as the standard game.
Four packs, of like pattern and shuffled together, are used. The cards rank
as at ordinary Bezique; but _nine_ instead of eight cards are dealt, singly
or by threes, to each player. There is no "turn-up," the first "marriage"
scored determining the trump suit. If a "sequence" be declared and scored
before any marriage, such sequence determines the trump suit.
The scores at Rubicon Bezique are as under:--
Carte Blanche (a hand without a single court card)[9] 50
Marriage in plain suits 20
Marriage in trumps[10] 40
Sequence in plain suits 150
Sequence in trumps 250
Single Bezique 40
Double Bezique 500
Treble Bezique 1500
Quadruple Bezique 4500
Four Knaves (irrespective of suit) 40
Four Queens " 60
Four Kings " 80
Four Aces " 100
For the last trick 50
The procedure as to playing and drawing is the same as at ordinary Bezique,
save that the tricks are {19} left face upwards in a heap between the
players until a brisque is played, when the winner of the trick takes them
up, and turns them face downwards, near himself. The value of each brisque
is ten points, but they are not scored till the close of the game, and in
certain events (see _post_) may not be scored at all.
Only one declaration can be scored at a time, and that only (save in the
case of _carte blanche_) by the winner of a trick; but if, on the cards
exposed, the player has more than one combination to score, he may score
whichever he prefers, at the same time calling attention to his further
claim by saying, "And ---- to score." A player is not bound to declare any
combination, even when exposed upon the table, unless he thinks fit. If he
is compelled to play a card of the combination before he has actually
scored it, the right to score is at an end.
A card declared in a given combination may not again be declared in an
_inferior_ combination of the same class--_e.g._ a king and queen declared
in Sequence cannot be afterwards made available to score a Royal Marriage.
The same card may, however, be used in conjunction with a new card or cards
to form, not merely a combination of the same kind, but the same
combination over again.[11] Thus, if Four Queens have been declared, the
player may play one of them, and, when he next wins a trick, add a fifth
queen to the three left on the table, and again score four queens.
If a combination, duly scored, is broken up, one {20} or more cards must be
substituted, either from the cards upon the table or from the hand of the
player, to entitle him to a fresh score. There is an apparent exception to
this rule in the fact that, if a player has declared two independent
marriages in the same suit, and all four cards are on the table
simultaneously, he may make two more declarations of marriage with the same
cards. In truth, however, this merely follows the rule. King 1 (already
"married" to queen 1) may again be married to queen 2; and king 2 (already
married to queen 2) to queen 1 in like manner.
A player who has two or more declarations to score may elect which he will
score first, the other remaining in abeyance; _e.g._ a player having
declared Four Kings, including the king of spades, and subsequently
declaring Bezique (the king of spades still remaining on the table) would
_ipso facto_ become entitled to score a Marriage, royal or ordinary, as the
case might be. We will suppose the former. In such a case, he would say, "I
score forty, and forty for marriage to score." This declaration should be
repeated, by way of reminder, after each trick, till actually scored. If,
in the meantime, the player becomes entitled to score some other
combination, he may, on winning a trick, score the latter in preference to
the one previously declared, still keeping this in reserve. The mere fact
of having declared a given combination "to score" does not preserve the
right to score it, if in the meantime the declarant either plays one of the
cards composing it or makes use of them to score some higher declaration of
the same class.
The last nine tricks are played like the last eight {21} in the ordinary
game; but the winner of the last trick, instead of 10, scores 50.
HOW THE SCORE IS DEALT WITH.
The game is complete in one deal, and is won by the player who scores most
points, according to the foregoing table, exclusive of brisques. These
latter are only taken into account where the scores are otherwise equal.
If, after the addition of the brisques, the scores are still equal, the
game is drawn.
There is one other case in which the brisques are reckoned. The score of
1000 points is known as the "Rubicon," and a player not reaching this score
is "rubiconed." In this case, also, each player adds in his brisques; and
if the score of the loser is thereby brought up to 1000, he "saves the
rubicon."
Assuming that the rubicon is saved, the score of the loser is deducted from
that of the winner, fractions of a hundred being disregarded in both cases.
To the difference are added 500 points for game, and the total is the value
of the game, the stakes being usually so much per hundred points. If it
happen that the difference between the two scores is less than 100, it is
reckoned at that figure, making, with the 500 for game, 600. Thus, if the
respective scores are, A, 1510; B, 1240; A wins 1500 - 1200 + 500 = 800. If
A's score were 1550, and B's 1520, A would win 100 + 500 = 600.
If B is rubiconed, the value of the game is computed after a different
method. The points made by him (still disregarding fractions of a hundred)
instead of being subtracted from, are _added_ to the {22} score of the
winner, who is further entitled to 1000 for the game and 300 for
brisques.[12] Thus, if A has won 1320, and B 620, the value of A's game
will be 1300 + 600 + 1000 + 300 = 3200.
If the rubiconed player has scored less than 100, that amount (100) is
added to the score of the other player, as well as the 1000 for game and
300 for brisques, as before mentioned.
THE LAWS OF RUBICON BEZIQUE.
SHUFFLING.
1.--Rubicon Bezique is played with four packs of thirty-two cards, shuffled
together.
2.--Each player has a right to shuffle the pack. The dealer has the right
of shuffling last.
3.--The pack must not be shuffled below the table, nor in such manner as to
expose the faces of the cards.
CUTTING.
4.--A cut must consist of at least five cards, and at least five must be
left in the lower packet.
5.--The cards rank as follows, both in cutting and in playing: ace
(highest), ten, king, queen, knave, nine, eight, seven (lowest).
6.--The player who cuts the higher card has choice of deal, seats and
markers. The choice determines both seats and markers during the play.
7.--If, in cutting for deal, a player expose more than one card, he must
cut again.
{23}
8.--The cut for deal holds good even if the pack be incorrect.
9.--If, in cutting to the dealer, or in reuniting the separated packets, a
card be exposed, or if there be any confusion of the cards, there must be a
fresh cut.
DEALING.
10.--The dealer must deal the cards by one at a time, giving the top card
to his adversary, the next card to himself, and so on; or by three at a
time, giving the top three cards to his adversary, the next three to
himself, and so on; until each player has nine cards. The undealt cards
(called the "stock") are to be placed face downward, in one packet, in the
middle of the table, to the left of the dealer.
11.--If the dealer deal the cards wrongly, he may rectify the error, with
the permission of his adversary, prior to either player having taken up any
of his cards.
12.--If, after the deal, and before the dealer has played to the first
trick, it be discovered that either player has more than nine cards there
must be a fresh deal. If it be similarly discovered that either player has
less than nine cards, the deal may be completed from the top of the stock
by mutual agreement, otherwise there must be a fresh deal.
13.--If the dealer expose a card belonging to his adversary or to the
stock, the non-dealer has the option of a fresh deal. If the dealer expose
any of his own cards, the deal stands good.
14.--If a faced card be found in the pack before the play of the hand has
begun, there must be a fresh deal. {24}
CARTE BLANCHE.
15.--If a player have a hand dealt him without king, queen or knave, he may
declare _carte blanche_ before playing a card. Carte blanche must be shown
by counting the cards, one by one, face upward, on the table.
16.--If, after playing a card, a player who has declared carte blanche draw
a card other than king, queen or knave, he is entitled to declare another
carte blanche on showing the card drawn to his adversary; and so on after
every card drawn, until he draws a king, queen or knave.
PLAYING.
17.--If a player play with more than nine cards he is rubiconed; but the
amount to be added to his adversary's score is not to exceed nine hundred,
exclusive of the thirteen hundred for a rubicon game.
18.--If both players play with more than nine cards, the game is null and
void.
19.--If a player play with less than nine cards, the error cannot be
rectified. He is liable to no penalty; his adversary wins the last trick.
20.--If both players play with less than nine cards, the deal stands good,
and the winner of the last trick scores it.
21.--If one player play with more than nine cards, and the other with less
than nine, the deal stands good. The player with more than nine cards is
rubiconed (as provided in Law 17), and neither player scores the last
trick.
22.--If a faced card be found in the stock after the play of the hand has
begun, it must be turned {25} face downward, without altering its place in
the stock.
23.--A card led in turn may not be taken up after it has been played to. A
card played to a trick may not be taken up after the trick has been turned,
or after another card has been drawn from the stock; but if two or more
cards be played together, all but one may be taken up; and cards
accidentally dropped may be taken up.
24.--A card led out of turn must be taken up, unless it has been played to.
After it has been played to, it is too late to rectify the error.
25.--A player who wins a trick containing a brisque should at once take up
all the played cards on the table, and turn them face downward near
himself. If he fail to do so, his adversary is entitled, as soon as he has
won a trick, to take up all the played cards on the table. Tricks turned
may not be looked at (except as provided in Law 27).
26.--The stock may be counted, face downwards, at any time during the play.
A player counting the stock should be careful not to disturb the order of
the cards.
27.--A player may not count the brisques in his tricks so long as more than
twelve cards remain in the stock.
DRAWING.
28.--If the winner of a trick see two cards when drawing from the stock, he
must show the top card to his adversary.
29.--If the loser of a trick draw the top card of the stock and see it, he
must restore the card drawn in error, and must show the next card to his
adversary; but, if the loser of a trick draw the top card, {26} and the
winner draw the next card and see it, it is too late to rectify the error,
and the players retain the cards erroneously drawn.
30.--If the loser of a trick, after the winner has drawn, see two cards
when drawing from the stock, his adversary has choice of the two cards of
the following draw, and is entitled to look at both before choosing. If he
choose the second card, he need not show it.
31.--If a player see several cards when drawing from the stock, his
adversary has choice of the two cards of the following draw, and then of
the cards of the next draw; and so on, as long as any card which has been
seen remains undrawn; and he is entitled to look at the cards before
choosing.
32.--If there be an odd number of cards in the stock, the last card is not
drawn.
DECLARING.
33.--Declared cards must be placed face upward on the table separate from
the tricks, and (except in the case of carte blanche) must remain there
until played, or until the stock is exhausted.
34.--If a declared card be played, and a card which restores any scoring
combination or combinations be substituted, these combinations may be
declared again.
35.--If a player declare more than one marriage in the same suit, he may
declare a fresh marriage whenever he plays one of the declared cards, so
long as a king and queen remain on the table.
36.--A player who has declared marriage may afterwards add the ace, ten,
and knave of the same suit as the marriage, and declare sequence; or he
{27} may declare sequence without first declaring the marriage.
37.--A king or queen, once declared in sequence, cannot be afterwards used
to form part of a marriage; but a player, having declared sequence, may
declare marriage with a fresh king and queen of the same suit.
38.--Bezique combinations may be declared separately, and may be afterwards
united to form a superior combination; or single, double, or triple bezique
may be added to any already declared combination, to form a superior one;
or, double, triple, or quadruple bezique may be at once declared, without
having been previously declared separately. Bezique cards once declared in
a superior bezique combination cannot be afterwards used to form part of an
inferior one; but they may be used to form part of equal or superior
combinations with a substituted card, or with added cards, or with both.
39.--A player who has cards on the table with which he might form a scoring
combination, is not bound to declare it.
SCORING.
40.--A player declaring--
Carte Blanche scores 50
Marriage in trumps " 40
Marriage in plain suits " 20
Sequence in trumps " 250
Sequence in plain suits " 150
Bezique " 40
Double Bezique " 500
Triple Bezique " 1500
Quadruple Bezique " 4500
Four Aces " 100
{28}
Four Kings " 80
Four Queens " 60
Four Knaves " 40
41.--The first marriage scored makes the trump suit. If no marriage his
been scored, the first sequence scored makes the trump suit.
42.--A player can only score a declaration on winning a trick and before
drawing, except in the case of carte blanche, which is scored before
playing, and independently of winning a trick.
43.--Only one declaration can be scored at a time; but if a player declare
a carte blanche which contains four aces, he may also score four aces if he
win the trick, notwithstanding that he has already scored carte blanche.
44.--If the winner of a trick have two or more declarations to score, he
may choose which he will first score. On winning another trick, he may
similarly choose which of the remaining declarations he will score, or he
may make and score a fresh declaration, and leave any unscored declarations
still to score on winning another trick.
45.--A player who has a declaration to score should repeat after every
trick what he has to score. He may score it at any time on winning a trick,
and before drawing.
46.--If a player who has a declaration to score play a card of the
combination before scoring it, he loses the score.
47.--If a player have a marriage to score, and, on winning a trick, add to
the marriage the ace, ten, and knave of the suit, and score sequence, he
loses the score for the marriage.
48.--If a player have an inferior bezique {29} combination to score, and,
on winning a trick, add to the bezique combination cards which form a
superior bezique combination, and score the superior combination, he loses
the score for the inferior one.
49.--A player who has a declaration to score is not bound to score it.
50.--If a player erroneously score a declaration which does not constitute
a scoring combination, and the error be not discovered before a card of the
next trick has been played, the score marked stands good; and so on for all
subsequent scores similarly marked before the discovery of the error.
51.--If an error in marking the score be proved, it may be corrected at any
time during the game.
52.--No declaration can be scored after the stock is exhausted.
THE LAST NINE TRICKS.
53.--The winner of the last trick adds fifty to the score.
54.--The winner of the last trick is bound to score it (except as provided
in Law 21).
55.--If, during the play of the last nine tricks, a player fail to follow
suit when able, or fail to win the card led when able--on detection of the
error, the card erroneously played, and all cards subsequently played, must
be taken up and replayed. {30}
COMPUTING THE GAME.
56.--The brisques (aces and tens) score ten each to the player having them
in his tricks; but the brisques are only taken into account as provided in
Laws 60 and 61.
57.--The winner of the game deducts the score of the loser from his own
(excluding fractions of a hundred), and the difference, with five hundred
added for the game, is the number of points won. If the difference between
the scores be less than a hundred, the winner adds a hundred to the score
of five hundred for the game.
58.--If the loser fail to score a thousand, he is rubiconed. The winner,
whether his score reach a thousand or not, adds the score of the loser to
his own (excluding fractions of a hundred) and the sum, with thirteen
hundred added for the game, is the number of points won.
59.--If a player who is rubiconed has scored less than a hundred, the
winner adds a hundred to his score, in addition to the score of thirteen
hundred for the game.
60.--If the loser of a game fail to score a thousand, but have in his
tricks a sufficient number of brisques to bring his total score to a
thousand, he is not rubiconed. Each player adds his brisques to his score,
and the game is computed as provided in Law 57.
61.--If the scores be so nearly equal that the brisques must be taken into
account in order to decide who wins the game, and the loser be not
rubiconed, each player adds his brisques to the score, and the game is then
computed as provided in {31} Law 57; but if the loser be rubiconed, the
brisques, though taken into account in order to decide who wins the game,
are not added to the scores, and the game is computed as provided in Law
58. In the case of a tie after adding the brisques, the game is null and
void.
INCORRECT PACKS.
62.--If a pack be discovered to be incorrect, redundant, or imperfect, the
deal in which the discovery is made is void. All preceding deals stand
good.
63.--If a card or cards which complete the pack be found on the floor, the
deal stands good.
CHANGING CARDS.
64.--Before the pack is cut to the dealer, a player may call for fresh
cards at his own expense. He must call for four fresh packs.
65.--Torn or marked cards must be replaced, or fresh packs called for at
the expense of the two players.
BYSTANDERS.
66.--If a bystander call attention to any error or oversight, and thereby
affect the score, he may be called on to pay all stakes and bets of the
player whose interest he has prejudicially affected.
* * * * *
{32}
BLIND HOOKEY.
The players, of whom there may be any number, cut for deal, the lowest
having the preference. The pack is then shuffled by the player on the
dealer's right hand, and afterwards, if he so please, by the dealer
himself, after which it is cut by the right-hand player. The two halves are
then re-united, and the pack is passed to the player on the left of the
dealer, who cuts from the top a small quantity of cards (not less than
four, nor more than his due proportion of the pack). The pack is then
passed to the next player, who cuts a similar portion, and so on round the
circle, the cards left belonging to the dealer. No one looks at his cards,
but makes his stake on pure speculation; hence the name "blind" hookey. The
dealer then turns up his cards, and shows the bottom one; the other players
do the same. Each player holding a higher card than that of the dealer
receives the amount of his stake; all below or equal pay the dealer. This
is repeated until a hand occurs in which the dealer is a loser all round,
when the deal is at an end, and the next player deals.
A second method is as under: The cards having {33} been shuffled and cut,
the dealer cuts them into three portions. Two of these are for the company,
the third for himself. The other players place their stakes on whichever
two packets they please, the rejected packet being taken by the dealer.[13]
The stakes having been made, the cards are turned up, and the players
receive or pay as the bottom cards of their packets prove to be higher or
lower than that of the dealer.
* * * * *
{34}
CRIBBAGE.
Cribbage is primarily a game for two players, though it may also be played
by three, or even four persons; in the latter case, two playing against
two, as at Whist. Of the two-handed game there are three varieties, known,
from the number of cards dealt to each player, as "five-card," "six-card,"
and "seven-card" cribbage. The number of points to be made in the first
case is 61; in the second, 121; and in the third, 181. If the loser has
made less than half the specified number of points, he is "lurched," and
pays double the agreed stake.
[Illustration: Cribbage Board.]
The score is marked by means of pegs of ivory or bone, on a special board,
as depicted above. It will be observed that there is on either side of the
board a double row of holes, thirty in each, divided, for convenience in
counting, into sets of five. The board is placed cross-wise between the
players, and {35} both start from the same end (which should be that to the
left of the first dealer), each travelling up the outer and down the inner
row (once round in the "five-card," twice in the "six-card," and thrice in
the "seven-card" game), terminating with the "game-hole" at the end from
which they started. In scoring, the hinder peg for the time being is
advanced the requisite number of points beyond the foremost.
We will commence with the five-card game.
The pack of fifty-two cards is used, and the players cut for deal, the
lowest dealing. For this and for "sequence" purposes, the cards rank in
regular order from ace (lowest) up to king (highest), but in counting court
cards count as tens.
The pack having been shuffled, the non-dealer cuts, and his opponent deals,
one at a time, five cards to each player. Meanwhile the non-dealer scores
three holes, known as "three for last," and regarded as a set-off for the
advantage of first deal. The undealt portion of the pack is placed face
downwards between the players. Each player now "lays out" two of his cards
(placed face downwards to the right hand of the dealer) to form what is
called the "crib." The principles which govern the "lay out" will be
discussed later.
The crib having been laid out, the non-dealer cuts, by lifting off the
upper half of the pack. The dealer turns up the card left uppermost and
places it on the top of the pack. This card is known as the "start." Should
it chance to be a knave, the dealer is entitled to "two for his heels," and
scores two points.
The score depends partly upon the course of play, {36} and partly upon the
player's holding certain combinations of cards. These latter are scored at
the close of the hand.
The scores which may be made in course of play are as under:--
PAIRS.--A player playing a similar card to the card last played by his
adversary (as a king to a king, or a seven to a seven) is entitled to score
_two_ for a _pair_.[14]
PAIRS-ROYAL.--If the first player in the case last supposed can follow with
a third card of the same description, he scores _six_ for a _pair-royal_.
DOUBLE PAIRS-ROYAL.--If the second player replies with a fourth card of the
same description, he scores _twelve_ for a _double pair-royal_.
SEQUENCES, OR RUNS.--Three or more cards of any suit but forming a regular
numerical succession (as two, three, four; knave, ten, nine), count one for
each card to the last player. The sequence need not be played in regular
order, so long as the cards exposed for the time being form an unbroken
series. Thus, suppose that A plays a five, and B a four. If A now plays
either a six or a three, he is entitled to score a run of three (three
points). We will suppose that he plays a three. If B can play either a six
or a two, he will be entitled to score _four_; and if A can then add
another card at either end, he will score _five_. Suppose, again, that A
has played a five and a three, and B a two and a six. If A now plays a
four, he is entitled to score five for the complete sequence. The highest
number that can be scored {37} for a sequence is _seven_, for ace, two,
three, four, five, six, seven. Ace, king, queen, do not count as a
sequence.
FIFTEEN or THIRTY-ONE.--A player whose card makes, with those already
exposed, the number _fifteen_, scores two. If either player makes
_thirty-one_, he scores two in like manner. If, when the cards on the table
approach thirty-one, the player whose turn it is can go no further without
passing that number, he says, "Go." His opponent then plays any other card
or cards up to that limit. If they make thirty-one exactly, he scores two;
if not, he scores one for "last card," _i.e._ the last card played. This
(at five-card cribbage) terminates the hand.
The hand being over, the players, beginning with the non-dealer, proceed to
"show," _i.e._ turn up their cards, and reckon how many points they may
contain conjointly with the turn-up card, which is regarded as belonging,
for this purpose, to the hand of each player, as also to the "crib" of the
dealer. The first point noted is the _fifteens_ they may contain, _two_
points being reckoned for each, and the cards being combined in every
possible way to make that number. Thus three fives and a ten or court card
make (apart from their value under other aspects) four fifteens
(technically spoken of as "fifteen eight"[15]), each of the fives forming
one fifteen with the ten, and the three fives united forming another.
The next thing to be noted is the presence of any pairs, pair-royal, or
double pair-royal. Thus, in the {38} case supposed, the player, after
claiming "fifteen eight," would go on to say "and six for a pair-royal,
fourteen."
If all the three cards in the hand are in sequence (independent of suit),
three points are reckoned for this, or if the three form a sequence with
the turn-up card, four.
If three of the cards are in sequence, and the fourth is a duplicate of one
of them, such fourth card is regarded as making a fresh sequence with the
other two, the "double run," as it is called, scoring six points. Besides
this, the holder is entitled to two for his "pair" (the two duplicate
cards), bringing the total value (irrespective of "fifteens") up to eight.
Where (as in crib at five-card, or hand or crib at six-card Cribbage) five
cards have to be reckoned, it may happen that three are in sequence, and
that the other two are duplicates of one of them. In this case they
constitute a treble run of three (nine points) and a pair-royal (six
points), total fifteen.
If the three cards of the hand are all of one suit, the player scores three
points for a _flush_. If the turn-up is of the same suit, four points.
If the hand chance to contain a _knave of the same suit as the turn-up
card_, the holder is entitled to score one point, "for his nob."
The non-dealer having scored his points, as above indicated, the dealer
proceeds to score any points, first in his hand, and then in the crib, in
like manner. There is only one distinction, viz., that, in counting crib, a
flush is not reckoned unless the "start" is of the same suit as the rest.
In this case the flush is worth five points (one for each card). {39}
The following table indicates the method of counting some of the more
important combinations (including the start) of the hand at five-card
Cribbage:--
Points.
Four fives (_Fifteen eight and a double pair-royal_) 20
Three fives and a ten (_Fifteen eight and a pair-royal_) 14
Two fives, a four, and a six } _Fifteen-four, pair,
Two fours, a five, and a six } and double run of
Two sixes, a four, and a five} three_ 12
Three threes and a nine }
Three sixes and a nine }
Three sixes and a three }
Three sevens and an eight} _Fifteen six and a pair-royal_ 12
Three eights and a seven }
Three nines and a six }
Three sevens and an ace }
Two eights, a six (or nine), and a seven } _Fifteen four,
Two sevens, a six, and an eight } pair, and double
Six, five, and two fours } run of three_ 13
Two fives and two tens or court cards of like
denomination (_Fifteen eight and two pairs_) 12
Two nines and two sixes (_Fifteen eight, and two pairs_) 12
Two fives, a ten, and a court card (_Fifteen eight
and a pair_) 10
Two sixes, a seven, and an eight (_Fifteen two, pair,
and double run of three_) 10
A five and any three court cards in sequence, or
ten, knave, queen (_Fifteen six and run of three_) 9
A five and three court cards, or a ten and court
cards, in sequence (_Fifteen six and run of three_) 9
Any sequence of three cards, with a duplicate of
one of them, but no "fifteen" (_Pair and double
run of three_) 8
Where the four cards of the hand (or all four of the crib, and the start)
are of the same suit, the value of the flush (four or five, as the case may
be) must be added. Where either includes a knave of {40} the same suit as
the start, one "for his nob" will be scored in addition.
A study of the foregoing table should be a material aid to the player in
discarding for "crib." If he is dealer, he desires the crib to be as
productive as possible; if non-dealer, the reverse. On the other side, he
desires to retain such cards as shall be likely to score best in his hand,
and these two objects frequently clash. It is therefore, important to know
which to prefer.
We will first examine the question from the dealer's point of view. Both
hand and crib belong to him, but the hand consists (including the start),
of _four_ cards only, while the crib has _five_. The possible combinations
of five cards are so numerous that space will only permit us to give
examples of a few leading hands. The highest possible score is twenty-nine,
which is made by three fives and a knave, with a fourth five, of the same
suit as the knave, turned up by way of start.[16]
The mode of reckoning is as follows: the four fives, in four combinations
of three, score fifteen eight. Each of them again scores a fifteen in
conjunction with the knave, making eight more. To these are added twelve
for the double pair-royal, and "one for his nob," making twenty-nine.
Two fives, two fours, and a six } _Fifteen eight, two
Two fives, two sixes, and a four } pairs, and a run
Two fours, two sixes, and a five } of three four times
Two sevens, two eights, and a } repeated_ 24
nine }
{41}
Four threes and a nine (_Fifteen twelve and a
double pair-royal_) 24
Three fives, a four, and a six (_Fifteen eight, a pair-royal,
and run of three thrice repeated_) 23
Three fours, a five, and a six }
Three sixes, a four, and a five } _Fifteen six, a
Three sevens, an eight, and a } pair-royal, and
nine } run of three
Three eights, a seven, and a } thrice repeated_ 21
nine }
Four twos and a nine } _Fifteen eight and a double
Four threes and a six } pair-royal_ 20
Two sixes, two sevens, and an }
eight } _Fifteen four, two
Two sevens, an eight, and two } pairs, and run
nines } of three four
Two eights, a seven, and two } times repeated_ 20
nines }
Three tens, or court cards of }
like denomination, and two } _Fifteen twelve,
fives } pair-royal, and
Three threes and two nines } pair_ 20
Three sevens and two aces }
Three threes and two sixes[17] (_Fifteen ten, pair, and
pair-royal_) 18
Three fours, three, and five (_Fifteen two, pair-royal,
and run of three thrice repeated_) 17
Three tenth cards in sequence and two fives (_Fifteen
twelve, pair, and run of three_)[18] 11
Any three cards in sequence, with duplicates of
two of them, but no "fifteen" (_Two pairs and
run of three four times repeated_) 16
Any three cards in sequence, with one of them
thrice repeated, but no "fifteen" (_Pair-royal
and run of three thrice repeated_) 15
As for combinations of minor value, their name is legion.
{42}
With four cards only, the general average is very much lower, as will have
been seen from the table on p. 39.
A comparison of the foregoing tables show that the crib at five-card
Cribbage is likely to be much more important than the hand, and this
furnishes us with a safe principle for the guidance of the player in laying
out. In the case of the dealer, he should lay out for crib such cards as
are most likely to form valuable combinations, even though he may, to some
extent, sacrifice the scoring value of his hand. Conversely, it is to the
interest of the non-dealer to lay out such cards as are likely to "baulk
the crib," as it is termed, even though he may to some extent injure his
own hand in doing so. On close examination of the tables, it will be found
that the cards most likely to help the crib are _pairs_. If the other three
cards chance to be in sequence, they are worth, standing alone, three only,
but the addition of duplicates of either of the series will bring their
value (for runs and pair-royal) up to fifteen, independently of any other
points they may contain. Or suppose, with six as start, that the dealer has
thrown out a four and a five, these are worth five only; but if the
non-dealer had been rash enough to throw out a pair, either of fours or
sixes, the score would run up to twenty-one. If the non-dealer had thrown
out a pair of fives, it would have been twenty-three.
Next to a pair, two cards forming a fifteen, or two cards in sequence, are
most likely to help the crib, and should therefore be preferred by the
dealer, and eschewed by the non-dealer--the more so, if they chance to
answer both conditions--_e.g._ a seven {43} and eight. Next to cards in
sequence come cards only one or two points apart, as the cards of the
opposite player may fill up the gap, and convert them into sequence cards.
Of single cards, a five is the most likely to score, inasmuch as there are
sixteen tenth cards to four of any other denomination, and the chances of
its forming part of one or more fifteens are therefore considerable. The
cards which are least likely to make for crib are king and ace, inasmuch as
nothing save queen, knave can convert a king into a sequence card, and
nothing save a two and three can convert the ace into a sequence card. The
best cards for the non-dealer to throw out are therefore a king or ace, and
some second card so far removed from the first that the two cannot form
part of the same sequence. King or queen, with nine, eight, seven, six, or
ace, are good "baulking" cards; likewise two or ace, with seven, eight,
nine, or ten. The non-dealer should never throw out a knave if he can help
it, as the start may cause it to score a point for "nob." In like manner,
the non-dealer should avoid laying out two cards of the same suit, as he
thereby runs the risk of a flush in crib.
In the play of the hand the guiding principle should be to give to the
adversary the fewest possible opportunities of scoring. Bearing this in
mind, it will be seen that the best card to lead at the outset is an ace,
two, three, or four, as the second player cannot make fifteen, and the
chance of doing so will revert to the first player. A five, on the other
hand, is a very bad lead, inasmuch as, from the greater number of tenth
cards in the pack, it gives the second player the best possible opportunity
of making fifteen. If the leader holds duplicates of {44} ace, two, three,
or four, one of them is a very good lead; for if the second player should
pair, the leader will have the opportunity of making a pair-royal. Failing
pairs, if the leader hold two cards which together make five, _i.e._ two
and three, or ace and four, it is good to play one of them, when, if the
adversary play a tenth card, the leader will be enabled to make fifteen.
Likewise, if the leader hold a six and a three, a four and a seven, or a
three and a nine, the first card of the couple is a safe lead, for if it is
paired, the second will make fifteen. On the other hand, should the second
player play a tenth card to the lead, the first player may pair it with
perfect safety, for no pair-royal can be made without overpassing the
limit, thirty-one.
As regards the second player, he will generally do well to make fifteen if
he can. If a low card, _i.e._ a four or less, has been led, he has no
choice, in the majority of cases, but to leave the fifteen to his
adversary; but he should carefully avoid playing such a card as will enable
the adversary to score not merely the fifteen, but a pair or sequence in
addition. On a four led, for instance, it would be very unwise to play
either a six or a five, as in such cases respectively, a five or six played
by the first player would give him both fifteen and a sequence. On a three
it would be equally wrong to play a six; on a seven a four; on a nine a
three, or on an ace a seven; for a like card played by the first player
would give him both fifteen and a pair. Again, it is in general unwise for
second player to play a close card (_i.e._ next or next but one to the
lead), as he thereby gives the adversary the chance of a "run." If he is in
a position to continue the run, he may of course play {45} a close card
with impunity. The points of "five" and "twenty-one" are to be avoided, as
a tenth card played by the adversary will in such case make him fifteen or
thirty-one. Similarly, it is bad play to make fourteen or thirty (_i.e._
one short of fifteen or thirty-one) with an _ace_; to make thirteen or
twenty-nine (_two_ short) with a _two_; twelve or twenty-eight with a
_three_; eleven or twenty-seven with a _four_; as in either of such cases,
should the adversary be able to pair, he will thereby score four holes. The
only exception is where the player chances to hold two deuces or aces, in
which case it will be worth while to make twenty-nine or thirty
respectively with one of such cards, on the chance of the opponent holding
no deuce or ace, in which case the first player will himself gain the
advantage of the double score.
Some discretion is needful in pairing the card first led, as the first
player may be aiming at a pair-royal, and the temporary gain of two points
may be counter-balanced by six to the adversary. Where, however, the player
holds two of the card led, it may be paired without hesitation. The chances
are much against the dealer's being in a position to make a pair-royal, and
if he should, it can be capped (unless the card be over seven) by the
double pair-royal of the last player.
A further point to be considered, in deciding whether to make a pair or
sequence, is the state of the score. It is calculated that the non-dealer,
at five-card cribbage, should make, on an average, _six_ in hand and play;
the dealer _eleven_, or a shade more, in hand, play, and crib. When each
has dealt once, they should stand abreast at seventeen {46} to eighteen,
and so on throughout the game. The player who has maintained this average
is said to be "home," and a player who is in this condition at an advanced
state of the game, should run as few risks as possible; should avoid
pairing, play wide cards to avoid sequences, and so on. This is known as
"playing off." If, on the other hand, he is behind his proper position, his
chance of winning will depend, in a great degree, on his making more than
the average number of points in play. In such case, he should embrace every
opportunity of making a fifteen, a pair, or a sequence, even at the risk of
giving opportunities to the enemy. This is known as "playing on." As there
are sixteen tenth cards in the pack, and ten out of fifty-two are dealt,
the probabilities are in favour of the players holding originally three
between them, and this probability should be borne in mind, as the so doing
will often help the player to a thirty-one. Suppose that the leader starts
with queen, and that the other player has no tenth card, but has a seven
and a four, an eight and a three, or a nine and a two. In such case it is
good policy to play the seven, eight, or nine. If the first player again
plays a tenth card, the second will be enabled, with his small card, to
score thirty-one. If the second player have no tenth card in his own hand,
the probability of his opponent holding more than one is proportionately
increased.
It may be useful to illustrate these elementary principles by the play of a
couple of imaginary hands. Let us suppose that A (elder hand) has the queen
and six of hearts, nine of clubs, eight of diamonds and seven of spades.
And B (dealer) the {47} ace and ten of hearts, ten of clubs, five of
spades, and four of diamonds.
It will be observed that A has four cards, six, seven, eight, nine, in
sequence, of which either the six and nine or the seven and eight will form
a fifteen. His fifth card, the queen, does not and cannot score with either
of the others. Obviously the queen should form one card of his lay-out. Of
the four remaining, he will naturally keep three in sequence. Which shall
he throw out, the six or the nine? The six in one respect is preferable,
inasmuch as it cannot be brought into sequence with the queen, whereas the
nine might possibly be so. On the other hand, the six is of the same suit
as the queen, and might help towards a flush. He decides, therefore, to
throw out queen, nine, retaining the six, seven, and eight.
B's proper course is clearly to throw out the ace of hearts and four of
diamonds, retaining the two tens and the five, which are good for six
points, viz. fifteen four and a pair, and with a five or ten start would be
worth twelve. On the other hand, should there be one or more tenth cards in
the crib, the four and ace will give them a scoring value.
The cards are cut, and B turns up the queen of clubs.
A leads the seven of spades, saying, "seven." This is his best lead. If B
should play an eight, making fifteen, A will be enabled to continue with
the six, and so score a run of three.[19] But B cannot make a fifteen, and
it is therefore his best policy to {48} go beyond that point. He plays the
ten of hearts, saying, "Seventeen," or more shortly, "'-teen." A has no
card which will score, and he therefore plays his highest, as the nearer he
gets to thirty-one the fewer chances does he leave his opponent of getting
closer to that number. He plays the eight of diamonds, saying,
"Twenty-five." B plays the five of spades--"Thirty." "Go," says A. B scores
one for last card, and the play of the hand is at an end.
The cards are turned up, and A counts his hand. The start has left him "no
better." He scores fifteen two for the seven and eight, and three points
for the run--five in all.
B is rather better off. With the start he has fifteen six and a pair--eight
in all. In crib the start has helped him considerably. Without it he had
fifteen two only--the ace and four combining with the queen of hearts; with
the start he has six--fifteen four and a pair. The nine is useless.
A having taken his three points as non-dealer, the score stands eight to
fifteen. It is now A's turn to deal, and the cards fall as follows: B has
king and eight of hearts, seven of spades, eight of diamonds and three of
clubs. And A (dealer) five and nine of diamonds, three of spades, ten of
hearts and six of clubs.
B throws out the king of hearts and three of clubs; A, the six of clubs and
nine of diamonds. The cards are cut, and the six of diamonds is turned up.
B leads the eight of hearts. This is a safe lead, for, if A scores fifteen,
B can pair him; if A pairs, B can make a pair-royal. A, not being able to
do {49} either, plays the ten of hearts, making eighteen. This prevents all
possibility of B's making fifteen; and should B play a tenth card, A's
three will make thirty-one. There is a possibility of B's playing a nine,
and so making three for the run, but this risk must be taken. Should he do
so, A will in all probability score one for last card; but B, having only a
seven and an eight, plays the latter, making twenty-six. This is a shade
the better card, inasmuch as it brings the score one point nearer
thirty-one. As it happens, the choice was unfortunate, for A, having a
five, is able to make thirty-one exactly, scoring two points accordingly.
The cards are shown: B scores fifteen four, a pair, and a run of three
twice over--twelve in all. A has in hand fifteen two only; but in crib he
has fifteen six and a pair, making eight in all.
The game now stands--A 20, B 27. Both have made their full average in the
two deals; but B's seven points ahead give him a decided advantage, and, on
the principle already explained he will do well to "play off" during the
remainder of the hand.[20]
SIX-CARD CRIBBAGE.
In this form of the game _six_ cards are dealt to each player. Two being
laid out for crib, four are still left in hand, and the scores accordingly
average very much higher than in the five-card game. The only material
difference of procedure is {50} that in the six-card game the scoring of
three extra points by the non-dealer is omitted, both players being
considered to start on an equal footing; and secondly, that the cards,
instead of being thrown down as soon as thirty-one or the nearest possible
approach to it, is reached, are played out to the end. The player who
failed to score for the "go" leads again, giving the adversary the
opportunity to make fifteen, or pair him if he can. Each plays alternately
as before, the player of the "last card" scoring "one" for so doing. If
there is only one card left after the "go," the leader still scores it as
"last card." The general principles laid down as to five-card cribbage
apply equally to the six-card game, save that in the latter, as hand and
crib consist of the _same number_ of cards, the non-dealer is no longer
under the same compulsion to baulk the crib, even to the destruction of his
own hand. The two objects--preserving the hand and baulking the opponent's
crib--are in this case on the same level, and either may legitimately be
preferred, as the nature of the hand may render desirable.
In consequence of the greater facility of scoring, it is customary to play
six-card cribbage twice round the board, _i.e._ to make the game 121
points.
SEVEN-CARD CRIBBAGE.
Seven-card cribbage is played in the same manner as the six-card game, save
that _seven_ cards are dealt to each player, two being thrown out for crib,
and _five_ left in hand, or, with the start, six. With such a largely
increased number of possible combinations, very high scores are frequent,
and for this reason it {51} is customary to make the game three times round
the board, _i.e._ 181 points.
THREE-HANDED CRIBBAGE.
When three persons play, five cards are dealt to each, one card of each
hand being laid out for crib, with one card from the top of the pack to
complete it. The start is then cut for in the usual manner. The player to
the dealer's left has first lead and first show, and deals in the
succeeding hand.
[Illustration: Cribbage-board for Three-handed Game.]
The score is usually marked on a triangular board, open in the centre, or
the ordinary cribbage-board may be furnished (see illustration) with a
supplementary arm, turning on a pivot, and duly provided with holes, to
keep the score of a third player.
FOUR-HANDED CRIBBAGE.
Where four persons engage in the game, two play as partners against the
other two, each pair sitting facing each other. Partners and deal are cut
for, as at Whist, the two lowest playing against the two highest, and the
lowest dealing. Five cards are dealt to each player, and each puts out one
for the crib, which {52} belongs, as in the two-handed game, to the dealer.
The player to the dealer's left has the lead, and each of the others play
to it in rotation. No consultation is allowed during the play, but partner
may assist partner in counting his hand or crib. One partner scores for
both. The cards are played right out, as in the six-card game.
The score is usually twice up and down the board, _i.e._ 121 points.
* * * * *
{53}
ECARTE.
The game of Ecarte is played with what is known as the Piquet pack of
thirty-two cards. The relative value of the cards is the same as at Whist,
with one exception, viz. that the king is the highest card, the ace ranking
between the knave and the ten. Thus the knave can take the ace, but the ace
can take the ten.
Trumps, as at Whist, are the most powerful cards. A seven of trumps can
take the king of another suit.
LAWS OF ECARTE.
The laws of Ecarte, as accepted by the principal clubs in London and
elsewhere, are as follows. We here quote them as given in "Cavendish on
Ecarte,"[21] a standard authority on the subject. Any reader who desires to
become a skilful player cannot do better than procure and study this work.
The Club Code laws are--
1.--Each player has a right to shuffle both his own and his adversary's
pack. The dealer has the right to shuffle last.
{54}
2.--The pack must not be shuffled below the table, nor in such a manner as
to expose the faces of the cards, nor during the play of the hand.
3.--A cut must consist of at least two cards, and at least two must be left
in the lower packet.
4.--A player exposing more than one card when cutting for deal must cut
again.
5.--The player who cuts the highest Ecarte card deals, and has choice of
cards and seats. The choice determines both seats and cards during the
play.
6.--The cut for deal holds good even if the pack be incorrect.
7.--If in cutting to the dealer a card be exposed, there must be a fresh
cut.
8.--The dealer must give five cards to his adversary and five to himself,
by two at a time to each, and then by three at a time to each, or _vice
versa_. The dealer, having selected the order in which he will distribute
the cards, must not change it during that game; nor may he change it at the
commencement of any subsequent game, unless he inform the non-dealer before
the pack is cut.
9.--If the dealer give more or less than five cards to his adversary or to
himself, or do not adhere to the order of distribution first selected, and
the error be discovered before the trump card is turned, the non-dealer,
before he looks at his hand, may require the dealer to rectify the error,
or may claim a fresh deal.
10.--The hands having been dealt, the dealer must turn up for trumps the
top card of those remaining.
11.--If the dealer turn up more than one card, the non-dealer, before he
looks at his hand, may {55} choose which of the exposed cards shall be the
trump, or may claim a fresh deal. Should the non-dealer have looked at his
hand, there must be a fresh deal.
12.--If, before the trump card is turned up, a faced card be discovered in
the pack, there must be a fresh deal.
13.--If the dealer expose any of his own cards the deal stands good. If he
expose any of his adversary's cards, the non-dealer, before he looks at his
hand, may claim a fresh deal.
14.--If a player deal out of his turn, or with his adversary's pack, and
the error be discovered before the trump card is turned up, the deal is
void. After the trump card is turned up, it is too late to rectify the
error, and if the adversary's pack has been dealt with, the packs remain
changed.
15.--If, after the trump card is turned up, and before proposing, or, if
there is no proposal, before playing, it be discovered that the non-dealer
has more than five cards, he may claim a fresh deal. Should the non-dealer
not claim a fresh deal, he discards the superfluous cards, and the dealer
is not entitled to see them.
16.--If, after the trump card is turned up, and before proposing, or, if
there is no proposal, before playing, it be discovered that the non-dealer
has less than five cards, he may have his hand completed from the stock, or
may claim a fresh deal.
17.--If, after the trump card is turned up, and before the dealer accepts
or refuses, or, if there is no proposal, before he plays, it be discovered
that he has dealt himself more than five cards, the non-dealer may claim a
fresh deal. Should he not claim {56} a fresh deal, he draws the superfluous
cards from the dealer's hand. Should the dealer have taken up his hand, the
non-dealer is entitled to look at the cards he draws.
18.--If, after the trump card is turned up, and before the dealer accepts
or refuses, or, if there is no proposal, before he plays, it be discovered
that the dealer has less than five cards, the non-dealer may permit the
dealer to complete his hand from the stock, or may claim a fresh deal.
19.--If a fresh deal be not claimed when the wrong number of cards are
dealt, the dealer cannot mark the king turned up.
20.--If the non-dealer play without taking cards, and it be then discovered
that he has more or less than five cards, there must be a fresh deal.
21.--If the dealer play without taking cards, and it be then discovered
that he has more or less than five cards, his adversary may claim a fresh
deal.
22.--If a king be turned up, the dealer is entitled to mark it at any time
before the trump card of the next deal is turned up.
23.--If either player hold the king of trumps, he must announce it before
playing his first card, or he loses the right to mark it. It is not
sufficient to mark the king held in hand without announcing it.
24.--If the king be the card first led, it may be announced at any time
prior to its being played to. If the king be the card first played by the
dealer, he may announce it at any time before he plays again.
25.--If a player, not holding the king, announce it, and fail to declare
his error before he has played a card, the adversary may correct the score,
and has {57} the option of requiring the hands to be played over again,
notwithstanding that he may have abandoned his hand. If the offender win
the point he marks nothing; if he win the vole he marks only one; if he win
the point when his adversary has played without proposing, or has refused
the first proposal, he marks only one. But if the adversary himself hold
the king, there is no penalty.
26.--If a player propose, he cannot retract; nor can he alter the number of
cards asked for.[22]
27.--The dealer, having accepted or refused, cannot retract. The dealer, if
required, must inform his adversary how many cards he has taken.
28.--Each player, before taking cards, must put his discard face downward
on the table, apart from the stock, and from his adversary's discard. Cards
once discarded must not be looked at.
29.--If the non-dealer take more cards than he has discarded, and mix any
of them with his hand, the dealer may claim a fresh deal. If the dealer
elect to play the hand, he draws the superfluous cards from the
non-dealer's hand. Should the non-dealer have taken up any of the cards
given him, the dealer is entitled to look at the cards he draws.
30.--If the non-dealer asks for less cards than he has discarded, the
dealer counts as tricks all cards which cannot be played to.
31.--If the dealer give his adversary more cards than he has asked for, the
non-dealer may claim a fresh deal. If the non-dealer elect to play the
hand, {58} he discards the superfluous cards, and the dealer is not
entitled to see them.
32.--If the dealer give his adversary less cards than he has asked for, the
non-dealer may claim a fresh deal. If the non-dealer elect to play the
hand, he has it completed from the stock.
33.--If the dealer give himself more cards than he has discarded, and mix
any of them with his hand, the non-dealer may claim a fresh deal. If the
non-dealer elect to play the hand, he draws the superfluous cards from the
dealer's hand. Should the dealer have taken up any of the cards he has
given himself, the non-dealer is entitled to look at the cards he draws.
34.--If the dealer give himself less cards than he has discarded, he may,
before playing, complete his hand from the stock. If the dealer play with
less than five cards, the non-dealer counts as tricks all cards which
cannot be played to.
35.--If a faced card be found in the stock after discarding, both players
have a right to see it. The faced card must be thrown aside, and the next
card given instead.
36.--If, in giving cards, any of the non-dealer's are exposed, he has the
option of taking them; should the non-dealer refuse them, they must be
thrown aside and the next cards given instead. If the dealer expose any of
his own cards, he must take them.
37.--If, after giving the cards, the dealer turn up a card in error, as
though it were the trump card, he cannot refuse another discard. If another
be demanded, the non-dealer has the option of taking the exposed card. {59}
38.--If the dealer accept when there are not sufficient cards left in the
stock to enable the players to exchange as many cards as they wish, the
non-dealer is entitled to exchange as many as he asked for, or, if there
are not enough, as many as there are left, and the dealer must play his
hand; the dealer is at liberty to accept, conditionally, on there being
cards enough in the stock.
39.--A card led in turn cannot be taken up again. A card played to a lead
may be taken up again to save a revoke or to correct the error of not
winning a trick when able, and then only prior to another card being led.
40.--If a card be led out of turn, it may be taken up again, prior to its
being played to; after it has been played to, the error cannot be
rectified.
41.--If the leader name one suit and play another, the adversary may play
to the card led, or may require the leader to play the suit named. If the
leader have none of the suit named, the card led cannot be withdrawn.
42.--If a player abandon his hand when he has not made a trick, his
adversary is entitled to mark the vole. If a player abandon his hand after
he has made one or two tricks, his adversary is entitled to mark the point.
But if a player throw down his cards, claiming to score, the hand is not
abandoned, and there is no penalty.
43.--If a player renounce when he holds a card of the suit led, or if a
player fail to win the trick when able, his adversary has the option of
requiring the hands to be played again, notwithstanding that he may have
abandoned his hand. If the offender win the point he marks nothing; if he
win the vole, {60} he marks only one; if he win the point when his
adversary has played without proposing, or has refused the first proposal,
he marks only one. Should the card played in error be taken up again prior
to another card being led (as provided by Law 39), there is no penalty.
44.--A player may call for new cards at his own expense, at any time before
the pack is cut for the next deal. He must call for two new packs, of which
the dealer has choice.
45.--If a pack be discovered to be incorrect, redundant, or imperfect, the
deal in which the discovery is made is void; all preceding deals stand
good.
46.--The game is five up. By agreement, the game may count a treble if the
adversary has not scored; a double if he has scored one or two; a single if
he has scored three or four.
47.--A player turning up a king, or holding the king of trumps in his hand,
is entitled to mark one.
48.--A player winning the point is entitled to mark one; a player winning
the vole is entitled to mark two.
49.--If the non-dealer play without proposing, and fail to win the point,
his adversary is entitled to mark two. If the dealer refuse the first
proposal, and fail to win the point, the non-dealer is entitled to mark
two. These scores apply only to the first proposal or refusal in a hand,
and only to the point, the score for the vole being unaffected.
50.--If a player omit to mark his score, he may rectify the omission at any
time before the trump card of the next deal is turned up. {61}
51.--An admitted overscore can be taken down at any time during the
game.[23]
The following French terms are commonly used at Ecarte:
ATOUT. Trump.--COUPER. To cut.--DONNER. To deal.--ECART. The cards
thrown aside.--FORCER. To play a superior on an inferior card.--LA
VOLE. All five tricks made by either player.--LE POINT. Three out of
the five made by either player. PROPOSER. Asking for fresh
cards.--RENONCER. Not to answer the suit led.
We will now suppose, by way of illustration, that A and Y play a game of
Ecarte.
Two packs of different colour or pattern, say a red and a white pack, are
used. From these packs the cards from two to six are extracted. A and Y cut
for deal; A cuts the knave, Y the ace. A therefore deals, as knave is in
this game higher than ace.
The cards having been shuffled, A gives the pack to Y to be cut. A then
deals three cards to his adversary, three to himself, then two to his
adversary and two to himself, and turns up the king of spades. "I mark the
king," says A (see Law 22).
A does not look at his cards, but waits to see what his adversary will do.
Y looks at his hand, and says, "I propose." A looks at his hand, and finds
in it queen, knave, ace of spades, the ace of diamonds, and the eight of
hearts. A has the trick now to a {62} certainty, and cannot lose it by
accepting, the low heart being the weak point in his hand. The hand of Y
was ten of spades, king of hearts, ten and seven of diamonds, and nine of
clubs. Y takes three cards; A takes two. Y takes in the king of diamonds,
the seven of spades, and the seven of hearts; A takes in the nine and eight
of spades, and must win the vole.
Y now deals, and turns the nine of clubs as trumps. A looks at his hand,
and finds in it the king and ace of diamonds, the eight and seven of
hearts, and the ten of spades. A proposes. Y looks at his hand, and finds
king, queen, knave of spades, eight and seven of clubs. "Play," says Y, and
he wins the vole. Score: Y = 2; A = 3.
With such a hand as Y held, to accept the proposal would have been wrong,
the chances being in his favour.
A now deals, and turns knave of diamonds. Y looks at his cards, and finds
they consist of queen, ten of diamonds, ten and eight of clubs, and eight
of hearts. He elects to play without proposing. A's hand consists of knave
of clubs, ace, knave, ten of hearts, and eight of diamonds. Y may now win
or lose the point, according to the cards he leads.
If he led queen, then ten of diamonds, he would lose the point. If he led
ten of clubs, he would win the point. The reader should place the cards and
play out these hands.
We will suppose that Y played correctly and won the point; the game stands
at 3 all.
It is now Y's turn to deal. We will suppose that he does so, and wins the
point; the game is then, Y = 4; A = 3. {63}
A now deals, and turns the nine of diamonds. Y's hand consists of queen,
knave of diamonds, king, queen, ace of spades. Y elects to play. A looks at
his hands, and finds in it the king, ace of diamonds, the ace of hearts,
the king of clubs, and the eight of spades.
Y must win the game if he play correctly; but, being anxious to win more
tricks than are necessary, he loses it by reckless play. Y leads king of
spades, on which A plays eight of spades, _without marking the king_. A
does this because Y, having played without proposing, will lose two if he
lose the point. To mark the king will be useless, if Y win the point; hence
A conceals from Y the fact of his holding the king. Y plays incautiously,
and leads as his second lead queen of diamonds; A wins with king of
diamonds, and leads king of clubs, which Y trumps, and leads queen of
spades, which A trumps, and leads ace of hearts, which wins the game.
If Y had followed his first lead with queen of spades, he must have won the
game; but, imagining that A could not hold the king because he did not mark
it, he played feebly, and lost the game.
This example will give some idea of the play of a hand, and of the
different results which follow the correct and incorrect play of even five
cards.
JEUX DE REGLE.
Great stress is laid by scientific Ecarte-players on what are termed _Jeux
de regle_, that is, hands which ought to be played without "proposing" or
"accepting." When the cards held by a player are so {64} good that he
cannot fail to win three tricks unless his adversary hold two trumps, it is
the rule to play without proposing. It is easy, by an examination of the
five cards, to at once perceive how the trick must be won, unless the
adversary hold two trumps. Here are a few examples:
King, queen, knave of spades, eight of hearts (trumps), eight of diamonds.
Lead king of spades; if not trumped, follow with queen, etc.
With three trumps, play without proposing. Likewise with two trumps, if the
other cards belong to one suit, or with two cards of one suit, one of which
is the king or queen.
Play if holding only one trump, provided the other cards are four of one
suit, one being a king, or three cards of one suit, one being a king or
queen, and the fifth card being a king or queen.
Play with no trump if three queens are held, or four court cards.
When playing these hands (and they apply mainly to the leader) it is
important to remember the disadvantage that follows leading from a suit of
two when one is a high, the other a much lower card, and the advantage of
leading from a suit of two when these are in sequence.
Take the following hands as examples:
A holds queen of clubs, queen of diamonds, queen and eight of hearts, and
eight of spades, the ten of spades being turned up as trump.
Y holds king and nine of hearts, nine and seven of diamonds, and nine of
spades.
If A lead the queen of hearts, he must lose the point, no matter how Y
plays. If, however, he lead either of his single queens, he _may_ win the
point, if {65} Y, after winning the queen of clubs, lead the king of
hearts.
Again, A holds queen, ten, of spades; knave, ten, of hearts; ten of
diamonds; diamonds being trumps.
Y holds knave, seven, of spades; seven of hearts; and knave, eight, of
diamonds.
If A lead the queen of spades, he loses the trick. If he lead knave and
then ten of hearts, he wins the trick.
From these examples it will be evident that cards in sequence, or single
cards, are better as leads than one high card, and then a small one of a
two-card suit. Also it is desirable that the adversary should be the leader
when the third lead occurs.
What is called being "put to a card," is, if possible, to be avoided. The
following will serve as an example:
A holds king, knave, ten, of hearts; queen of diamonds, and knave of spades
(nine of clubs turned up). A proposes, and is refused. He may now conclude
that Y has two trumps at least.
A leads king of hearts, which wins; then knave, which wins. If Y holds ace
of hearts, A must lose the point. If, however, Y hold either a diamond
lower than the queen, or a spade lower than the knave, A may win, if he
keep the right card; if, however, A play a third heart, and this is
trumped, and Y play, say, queen of trumps, A must discard either his queen
of diamonds or his knave of spades, and he has no guide as to which to
discard. Instead, therefore, of playing the third heart he should lead
either the diamond or the spade, and thus avoid being "put to a card."
The dealer has the option of refusing or accepting; {66} before doing
either, he should not only consider well the cards in his hand, but the
state of the score.
It is not unusual for a player who may hold the trick for certainty to
propose in the hopes of being refused, in order that he may, by winning the
trick, score two. If this occurred at the score of three, the results would
be fatal.
As a general rule, refuse if only two cards can be discarded. A king or a
trump should not be discarded in the first instance.
With three trumps, refuse, unless the king of trumps is one of the three,
when there is a great chance that the cards taken in may enable the vole to
be won.
With only one trump and one king, no matter what the other suits may be, if
not having a card higher than a ten, accept. But with one trump, two queens
guarded, or a king and queen guarded, refuse. Although in many cases, where
it is the rule to play, it is two to one in favour of the player winning
the point, it must not be imagined that he will always win. He may win
twice out of three times, but it is possible for the adversary to hold
exceptionally good cards, and to win the point against the _jeu de regle_.
For example, A holds queen, ace, and seven of hearts (trumps), king of
spades, king of diamonds, and, of course, plays without proposing. Y holds
king, knave, nine, and eight of hearts, and nine of clubs, and must win the
point; but for A to propose would have been wrong, his hand being strong
enough to win four times out of five.
When a player proposes, and is refused, he may form an estimate of the suit
or suits out of trumps in which his adversary it likely to be strong.
Suppose {67} A, the non-dealer, hold queen, knave of spades, ace of hearts,
seven of clubs, and knave of diamonds (trumps). The probabilities are that
Y is strong in hearts and clubs, or holds two trumps. The queen of spades
in this case should, of course, be led; and, if it win, should be followed
by the knave.
The condition of the score ought to be considered before proposing or
playing without proposing. If the adversary be at the score of three, it is
dangerous to play without proposing, unless the hand be very strong. If the
adversary be at four, it is better not to propose if the non-dealer's hand
be fairly strong, unless the king be held, as there is a chance of the
dealer drawing the king, and at once scoring game.
The high cards which have been discarded should be remembered, because
lower cards are then of greater value; thus, if the knave and ace of hearts
have been discarded, and the king and ten are drawn, there can be only one
card, viz., the queen of hearts, which is better than the ten, and in this
suit the ten is equivalent to the knave held originally.
Inexperienced players, as a rule, are too apt to propose, and to continue
proposing till the pack is exhausted. As there are eight trumps in the
pack, a player gains no advantage if he hold four of these, when his
adversary also holds four. His hand _looks_ better than if he held only
two, but whilst he has furnished himself with trumps, his adversary has
done likewise.
In order to play Ecarte well, take a pack of cards, and deal out the hands
against an imaginary or dummy adversary; remember those hands under the
heading _Jeux de regle_, and then note how the hand can be best played to
secure the point.
* * * * *
{68}
EUCHRE.
Euchre may be played either as a two-, three- or four-handed game, the
latter being the most popular form. For greater facility of explanation,
however, we will commence with the two-handed game.
Euchre is played with the "piquet" pack of thirty-two cards, consisting of
the ace, king, queen, knave, ten, nine, eight and seven of each suit. The
above is their rank in play, subject to the qualification that the knave of
the trump suit for the time being is known as the "Right Bower," and takes
temporary precedence of all other cards. The knave of _the opposite suit of
same colour_ (_e.g._ of diamonds when hearts, or of spades when clubs are
trumps) is known as the "Left Bower," and ranks next in value. The Left
Bower is considered for the time being to belong to the trump suit, so that
if this card is led, the trump suit, and not its own, must be played to
it.[24]
{69}
TWO-HANDED EUCHRE.
The players having cut for deal, five cards are dealt (by twos and then
threes, or _vice versa_, at the pleasure of the dealer) to each player. The
eleventh card is turned up by way of trump. If the non-dealer thinks his
hand good enough, with the suit of the turn-up card as trumps, to make
three tricks, he says, referring to that card, "I order it up." This fixes
that suit as trumps. The dealer discards the worst card of his own hand,
placing it face downwards under the pack, and the turn-up card is
thenceforth considered to form part of his hand. He does not, however,
actually take it into his hand until the first trick has been played.
If the non-dealer does not consider his hand good for three tricks, or is
of opinion that he would be likely to gain by a change of the trump suit,
he says, "I pass," and the dealer examines his own cards from the same
point of view. If he thinks his hand is good enough with the subsisting
trump suit to make three tricks, he says, "I take it up," and proceeds to
place, as before, one card under the pack. If he does not think his hand
safe for three, he says, "I turn it down," and places the turn-up card
below the rest of the pack. This annuls the trump suit, and the non-dealer
has now the option of saying what suit shall be trumps. He considers what
will best suit his hand, and says, "Make it hearts" (or otherwise, as the
case may be), accordingly.
If he decides to "make it" _of the same colour_ as the previous turn-up
card (_e.g._ spades in place of clubs, or hearts in place of diamonds), he
is said {70} to "make it next." If otherwise, to "cross the suit."
If, even with the privilege of making the trump what he pleases, he doubts
his ability to win three tricks, he again "passes," and the dealer "makes
it" what best suits him. If he too has such a bad hand that he thinks it
safer to "pass" again, the cards are thrown up, and the deal passes.
The trump suit having been "made" by the one or the other player, the
non-dealer leads a card, and the dealer plays to it, the two cards
constituting a "trick." The second player must follow suit if he can,
subject to the qualification that (as already stated) if the Left Bower be
led, a trump must be played to it. The higher card wins, trumps overriding
plain suits; and the winner of the trick leads to the next.
The player who has "ordered up," "taken up" (save in obedience to order),
or "made" the trump, thereby tacitly undertakes to win at least three
tricks. If he makes less than this number, he is "euchred," and his
opponent scores "two." If he makes three tricks he wins "the point," and
scores one. Four tricks are no better than three, but if he make all five
he wins a "march," which scores two. The non-challenging player is not
under any obligation to win, but scores if his adversary fail to do so.
Five points constitute "Game."
FOUR-HANDED EUCHRE.
Where four players take part, two play in partnership against the other
two, partners facing each other, as at Whist. Five cards having been dealt
to {71} each, and the twenty-first turned up by way of trump, the elder
hand (_i.e._ the player to the left of the dealer) declares whether he will
"order up" the trump card or "pass." In the latter event, the option passes
to the dealer's partner; but he expresses it in a somewhat different
manner, inasmuch as he is dealing with a friend instead of an enemy. If he
thinks his hand good for two or more tricks he says, "I assist." This is
considered a call to his partner (the dealer) to take up the trump, which
he does accordingly, he himself having no choice in the matter. If the
second player passes, the option rests with the third player, who "orders
it up" or passes, as his hand may warrant. In the latter case the dealer
decides for himself whether to take it up or turn it down. If the trump has
either been ordered up or taken up voluntarily by the dealer, the play
proceeds as in the two-handed game. If, on the other hand, the dealer
"turns it down," the players, beginning with the elder hand, are invited in
succession to "make it" what they please; the challenging party in either
case being bound, in conjunction with his partner, to make three tricks,
under penalty of being euchred.
A player with an unusually strong hand may elect to "go alone." In such
case his partner turns his cards face downward on the table, and leaves the
"lone hand," as he is termed, to play the game singly against the two
opponents.
If a player "going alone" is lucky enough to win all five tricks, he scores
_four_ (instead of three) for the "march"; but if he make three or four
tricks only, he scores one for the point in the ordinary manner. {72}
THREE-HANDED EUCHRE
Here each plays for his own hand. The value of the march and point are the
same as in the two-handed or four-handed game, but if the challenging
player is euchred, each of his adversaries scores two points. If this
should carry them both "out," the elder hand is the winner. To avoid this,
which is hardly a satisfactory termination for the younger hand, another
method of scoring is sometimes adopted, the points for the euchre being
_deducted_ from the score of the euchred player, who is "set back"
accordingly. Should he have made no points towards game, he is considered
to owe the points for the euchre; so that a player, standing at love when
euchred, has seven points to make before he can win.
MARKING THE SCORE.
The method of scoring at Euchre is somewhat peculiar. The score is usually
kept by means of spare playing cards, a three and a four (of any suit)
being used by each side. The "three" face upwards, with the "four" turned
down upon it, indicates _one_ (however many pips may chance to be exposed).
The "four" face upwards, with the "three" turned down upon it, indicates
_two_. The face of the "three" being uppermost counts _three_; and the face
of the "four" being uppermost counts _four_.
Another method of keeping the score is by means of a cross x chalked at the
outset of the game on the table beside each player. "One" is scored by
rubbing out the centre of the cross, leaving the four {73} arms still
standing, and these in turn are rubbed out, one for each point which the
player becomes entitled to score.
The hints for play which follow are borrowed, with slight modification,
from the American Hoyle. They refer more especially to the four-handed
game.
HINTS FOR PLAY.
PASSING AND ORDERING UP.
No prudent player will order up the trump unless his hand is sufficiently
strong to render his chances of success beyond reasonable doubt. There are
cases, however, when there would be no imprudence in ordering up upon a
light hand. For instance, supposing the game to stand four and four, and
the elder or third hand to hold an ordinarily good show of cards in the
trump suit as turned up, with nothing better in any other suit, then it
would be proper to order up, for, should the trump be turned down, your
chance of success would be lost. If you are euchred, it does but give the
game to those who would win it anyhow in some other suit.
If the player is elder hand, and a suit should be turned in which he
receives both bowers and another large trump, and he has also two cards of
the suit corresponding in colour, it is his best policy to pass; for the
obvious reason that if the dealer's partner should assist, he would be
enabled to euchre the opposing side, and, if the trump were turned down,
his hand would be just as good in the next suit. Having in such case the
first opportunity of making the trump, he could "go alone," with every
probability of making the hand and scoring four. {74}
Elder hand holding the Right Bower, ace or king, and another small trump
and a card of the same colour as the trump suit, should pass; for if his
adversaries adopt the trump, he will, in all probability euchre them; and
if they reject it, he can make the trump next in suit, and the chances of
scoring the point are in his favour.
As a general rule, the elder hand should not order up the trump unless he
has good commanding cards, say Right Bower, king and ten of trumps, with an
ace of a different suit, or Left Bower, king and two small trumps. The
player at the right of the dealer should hold a very strong hand to order
up the trump, because his partner has evinced weakness by passing; and if
the opposing side turn down the trump, his partner will have the advantage
of first call to make a new trump.
ASSISTING.
Two court cards usually form a good "assisting" hand, but where the game is
very close it is advisable to assist, even upon a lighter hand. If, for
instance, the game stands four and four, the first hand will naturally
order up if the suit turned is the best in his hand. The fact of his having
passed is, therefore, an evidence of weakness.
When, as dealer, and assisted by your partner, you hold a card next in
denomination to the card turned up (whether higher or lower), play it as
opportunity offers. If, for instance, you turn up the ace, and hold either
the Left Bower or king, when a chance occurs play the Bower or king, and
thus inform your partner that you have the ace remaining. The same policy
should be adopted when your partner assists {75} and you have a sequence of
three trumps, the trump card being the smallest of the three. In such a
situation, play the highest card of the sequence; this will inform your
partner that you hold the remainder of the sequence, and enable him to
shape his play accordingly.
As a general rule, always assist when you can win two tricks.
TAKING UP THE TRUMP.
What constitutes sufficient strength to take up the trump is a matter of
considerable importance to the player. The object being to make a point,
there must, of course, be a reasonable probability of securing three
tricks, but the decision should, to a certain extent, depend upon the
position of the game. If the dealer should be three or four towards game,
while the opponents are one or two, the trump might be turned down, and the
chances of winning the game still be not materially reduced; but if the
position should be reversed the dealer would be warranted in attempting the
hazard upon a light hand, as the prospects of defeat would be no greater
than by adopting the opposite alternative. It is generally accepted as
sound that three trumps, backed by an ace of another suit, are sufficient
to attempt a point. If the game stands four all, it is better to take up
the trump on a small hand than to leave it for the adversaries to make.
With the game three all, it is necessary to be very cautious in adopting
the trump with a weak hand, because a euchre puts the opponents out. {76}
MAKING THE TRUMP.
Should the dealer turn the trump down, the eldest hand has the privilege of
making it what he pleases, and the rule to be generally followed is, if
possible, to make it next in suit, or the same colour as the trump turned.
The reason for this is evident. If the trump turned should be a diamond,
and the dealer refuse to take it up, it is a fair inference that neither of
the bowers is in the hands of your opponents; for if the dealer's partner
had held one of them, he would in all probability have assisted; and the
fact of the dealer turning down the trump also raises the presumption that
he had neither of them. Then, in the absence of either bower, an otherwise
weak hand could make the point in the same colour. For reverse reasons, the
partner of the dealer would "cross the suit," and make it clubs or spades;
for, his partner having evidenced weakness in the red suits, by turning a
red card down, it would be but fair to presume that his strength was in the
black suits.
Be careful how you make the trump when your adversaries have scored three
points, and, as a general rule, do not make or order up a trump unless you
are elder hand or the dealer's partner.
THE BRIDGE.
If one side has scored four, and the other side only one, such position is
known as the "bridge," and the following rule should be observed:
To make the theory perfectly plain, we will suppose A and B to be playing
against C and D, the former having scored four, and the latter but one.
{77} C having dealt, B looks at his hand, and finds he has but one or two
small trumps; in other words, a light hand. At this stage of the game, it
would be his policy to order up the trump, and submit to being euchred, in
order to remove the possibility of C or D playing alone; for if they should
by good fortune happen to succeed, the score of four would give them the
game. If B were to order up the trump, the most that could be done by the
adversaries would be to get the euchre, and, that giving but a score of
two, the new deal, with its percentage, would in all probability give A and
B enough to make their remaining point and go out. If, however, B has
enough to prevent a lone hand, he should pass, and await the result. The
Right Bower, or the Left Bower guarded, is sufficient to block a lone hand.
The elder hand is the only one who should order up at the bridge, for if he
passes, his partner may rest assured that he holds cards sufficient to
prevent the adversaries making a lone hand. If, however, the elder hand
passes, and his partner is tolerably strong in trumps, the latter may then
order up the trump to make a point and go out; for, by the eldest hand
passing, his partner is informed that he holds one or more commanding
trumps, and may therefore safely play for the point and game.
The elder hand should always order up at the bridge when not sure of a
trick; the weaker his hand, the greater the necessity for doing so.
PLAYING ALONE.
If your partner announce that he will play alone, you cannot supersede him
and play alone yourself, but must place your cards upon the table face {78}
downwards, no matter how strong your hand may be.[25] In order to avail
yourself of the privilege of playing alone, it is necessary to declare your
intention of so doing distinctly, and in plain terms thus, "I play alone";
if you fail to do this, and the adverse side makes a lead, you forfeit all
claim to the privilege. You must also make the announcement in good time;
if you neglect to do so, and the adverse side make a lead, or if you
yourself lead before declaring your intention of playing alone, you lose
the right, and your opponents may compel you to play with your partner.
In playing a lone hand, it is a great advantage to have the lead. The next
best thing is to have the last play on the first trick. The elder hand or
the dealer may, therefore, venture to play alone on a weaker hand than
either of the other players.
When your opponent is playing alone, and trumps a suit led by yourself or
your partner, take every opportunity to throw away cards of that suit upon
his subsequent leads.
When, opposing a lone hand, you find that your partner throws away high
cards of any particular suit, you may be sure that he holds high cards in
some other suit; you should, therefore, retain to the last your highest
card of the suit he throws in preference to any other card, short of an
ace.
{79}
DISCARDING.
When the dealer takes up the trumps before the play begins, it is his duty
to discard or reject a card from his hand in lieu of the one taken up. We
will suppose that the ten of hearts has been turned up, and the dealer
holds the king and Right Bower, with the ace and nine of clubs, and king of
diamonds. The proper card to reject would be the king of diamonds. There
would be no absolute certainty of its taking a trick, for the ace might be
held by the opponents; whereas, retaining the ace and nine of clubs, the
whole suit of clubs might be exhausted by the ace, and then the nine might
be good. If the trump were one of the red suits, and the dealer held three
trumps, seven of spades and seven of hearts, it would be better for him to
discard the spade than the heart; for, as the dealer's strength is in the
red suit, the probabilities are that the other side will be correspondingly
weak, and the heart would therefore be better than the spade.
Where you have two of one suit and one of another to discard from, always
discard the suit in which you have one only, for then you may have an
opportunity to trump.
LEADING.
Where the dealer has been assisted, it is a common practice to lead through
the assisting hand, and frequently results favourably; for in the event of
the dealer having but the one trump turned, a single lead of trumps
exhausts his strength, and places him at the mercy of a strong plain suit.
It is not, however, {80} always advisable to lead a trump; for, if the
elder hand hold a tenace, his duty is to manoeuvre so as to secure two
tricks; but this is an exceptional case. The proper lead must be determined
by the quality of the hand, and the purpose to be accomplished. The elder
hand, holding two aces and a king, with two small trumps, would, of course,
lead trump through the assisting hand; for the only hope of securing a
euchre would be dependent upon the success of the non-trump suits, and they
can only be made available after trumps have been exhausted.
Where the dealer takes up the trump voluntarily, the elder hand is, of
course, upon the defensive, and to lead a trump under such circumstances
would be disastrous.
Should your partner have turned up the Right Bower, lead a small trump as
soon as you can; by so doing you will be sure to weaken your adversary's
hand.
When your partner makes the trump, or orders it up, lead him the best trump
you hold.
When you hold the commanding cards, they should be led to make the "march";
but if you are only strong enough to secure your point, cards of other
suits should be used.
When opposed to a lone hand, always lead the best card you have of another
suit, so that the possibility of your partner's retaining a card of the
same suit with yourself may be averted. If the card you lead is of an
opposite colour from the trump, so much the better; for if a red card
should be trump, and an opponent plays alone, the chances are against his
holding five red cards. Besides, if the lone player did hold five red
cards, it would, in like {81} proportion, reduce the probability of your
partner having one of the same suit, and give him an opportunity to weaken
the opposing player by trumping.
The exception to the above rule is when you hold two or three cards of a
suit, including ace and king, and two small cards in other suits; in this
case your best play would be to lead one of the latter, and save your
strong suit, for your partner may hold commanding cards in your weak suits,
and you thus give him a chance to make a trick with them, and if this does
not occur, you have your own strong suit as a reserve, and may secure a
trick with it.
When playing to make a lone hand, always lead your commanding trump cards
first, reserving your small trumps and other suit for the closing leads.
When you have exhausted your commanding trumps, having secured two tricks,
and retaining in your hand a small trump and two cards of another suit,
lead the highest of the non-trump suit to make the third trick, then your
trump. For instance, suppose that hearts are trumps, and you hold the Right
and Left Bowers and ten of trumps, and ace and nine of spades; lead your
bowers, then the ace of spades, following with the ten of trumps and nine
of spades. The reason for playing thus is obvious. You _may not_ exhaust
your adversaries' trumps by the first two leads, and if either of them
chanced to retain a trump-card superior to your ten, by leading the latter
you would, in all probability, be euchred on a lone hand.
Holding three small trumps and good plain cards, and desiring to euchre
your opponents, lead a trump, for when trumps are exhausted you may
possibly make your commanding plain suit cards. {82}
When you make the trump next in suit, always lead a trump, unless you hold
the tenace of Right Bower and ace, and even then it would be good policy to
lead the bower, if you hold strong plain-suit cards.
When you hold two trumps, two plain cards of the same suit, and a single
plain card of another suit, lead one of the two plain cards, for you may
win a trick by trumping the suit of which you hold none, and then, by
leading your second plain card, you may force your opponents to trump, and
thus weaken them. With such a hand it would not be good play to lead the
single plain card, for you might have the good fortune to throw it away on
your partner's trick, and ruff the same suit when led by your opponents.
When your partner has made or adopted the trump, it is bad play to win the
lead, unless you possess a hand sufficiently strong to play for a march. If
your partner assist you, and has played a trump, and you have won a trick
and the lead, do not lead him a trump unless you hold commanding cards, and
are pretty certain of making the odd trick or a march, for your partner may
have assisted on two trumps only, in which case such lead would draw his
remaining trump, and, in all probability, prove fatal to his plans.
Having lost the first two tricks and secured the third, if you hold a trump
and a plain card, play the former, for, in this position of the game, it is
your only chance to make or save a euchre.
There are only two exceptions to this rule, viz. when you have assisted
your partner, or when he has adopted the trump and still retains the trump
{83} card in his hand. In the former instance you should lead the plain
card, trusting to your partner to trump it; in the latter case you should
also lead the plain card, unless your trump is superior to your partner's,
and your plain card is an ace or a king, in which case you should play a
trump, and trust to the plain card to win the fifth trick.
The reason for this play is manifest. If your opponents hold a better trump
than you do, it is impossible to prevent their winning the odd trick, and,
therefore, the euchre or point; but if they hold a smaller trump, your lead
exhausts it, and you may win the last trick with your plain card.
This position frequently occurs in the game, and we recommend it to the
attention of the novice.
CONCLUDING HINTS.
Never lose sight of the state of the game. When the score is four all,
adopt or make a trump upon a weak hand.
When the game stands three to three, hesitate before you adopt or make a
trump upon a weak hand, for a euchre will put your adversaries out.
When you are one and your opponents have scored four, you may risk trying
to make it alone upon a weaker hand than if the score were more favourable
to you.
When you are elder hand, and the score stands four for you, and one for
your opponents, do not fail to order up the trump, to prevent either of
them from going alone. Of course, you need not do this if you hold the
Right Bower, or the Left Bower guarded. {84}
When playing second, do not ruff a small card the first time round, but
leave it to your partner. Throw away any single card lower than an ace, so
that you may afterwards ruff the suit you throw away.
When your partner assists, and you hold a card next higher than the turn-up
card, ruff with it when an opportunity occurs.
When third player, ruff with high or medium trumps, so as to force the high
trumps of the dealer.
When your partner leads the ace of a plain suit, and you have none, do not
trump it; but if you have a single card, throw it away upon it.
When second hand, if compelled to follow suit, head the trick if possible.
When you cannot follow suit or trump, throw away your weakest card.
PROGRESSIVE EUCHRE.
This is a version of the game suitable for mixed gatherings. The party play
in fours, each pair of partners consisting of a lady and a gentleman. The
first table is known as the "head table," and the last as the "booby"
table, those between being "second," "third," and so on. The head table is
furnished with a bell, and the host provides a supply of cardboard or paper
stars in three colours, say gold, red, and green.
Two packs of cards of different patterns are taken, and a sequence from ace
upwards, equal to the number of tables, is selected from the club and spade
suits of each. These are shuffled, face {85} downwards. The ladies draw
from the one pack, the gentlemen from the other. The lady and gentleman
whose cards correspond play together, and the number of pips gives the
table at which they are to play.
The bell being struck, play begins, and continues till one pair of partners
at the head table has made five points, when the bell is again sounded. All
play then ceases, but the scores already made stand, and decide the result
of the games.
The winners at the head table each receive a gold star, and keep their
seats for the next game. The losers are transferred to the booby table, and
the winners at the second table take their places; being in turn replaced
by the winners at the third table, and so on. The losers at all but the
head table keep their places, but exchange partners with the newcomers at
the table. The winners at the inferior tables receive each a red star, and
the _losers_ at the booby table a green star.
At the close of play the lady and gentleman having the largest number of
stars of a given class each receive a "prize." In the event of a tie for a
gold star prize, the number of red stars held by each player decides. If
this again is a tie, the competitor with the fewest green stars is the
winner.
In the case of ties in points at any table when the bell is sounded, the
holders of the most tricks toward the next hand are the winners.[26]
* * * * *
{86}
LOO.
Loo is played in divers fashions, but there are two leading varieties,
known as "three-card" and "five-card" Loo respectively. There is no limit
in either case to the number of players, but six or seven make the better
game.
THREE-CARD LOO.
The full pack of fifty-two cards is used, the cards ranking as at Whist.
The dealer, having been selected,[27] places an agreed number of counters
(either three or some multiple of three) in the pool. Three cards are
dealt, one by one, to each player, also an extra hand, known as "miss." The
card next following is turned up, and fixes the trump suit. The dealer then
asks each player, beginning with the elder hand, whether he will play or
"take miss." The player looks at his cards. If he holds a good hand, he
will elect to play; if otherwise, he has the option of either "taking
miss," _i.e._ taking the extra {87} hand in place of his own, or of
"passing," _i.e._ throwing up his hand altogether for that round. If miss
be declined, the same offer is made to the next in rotation; but so soon as
miss is taken, the remaining players have only two alternatives--viz.
either to play the cards they hold, or to pass. A player who has taken miss
is bound to play. The cards he has discarded, as also those of any players
who pass, are thrown face downwards in the middle of the table, and no one
has a right to look at them.
Should one player take miss, and all the rest throw up their cards, he is
entitled to the pool. Should only one player have declared to play, and not
have taken miss, the dealer may play either his own cards or take miss on
his own account, but if he does not care to do either, he is bound to take
miss and play for the pool, _i.e._ the proceeds of any tricks he may make
remain in the pool, to abide the result of the next round. In the event of
all save the dealer "passing," the dealer is entitled to the pool.
The elder hand (as among those who have declared to play) now leads a card.
If he has two trumps he is bound to lead one of them. If he holds the ace
of trumps he is bound to lead it, or if an ace be turned up, and he holds
the king of the same suit, he is bound to lead the latter. If only two
persons have declared to play, and the holder holds two or more trumps, he
must lead the _highest_, unless his highest trumps are in sequence or of
equal value,[28] when he may lead either of them. (With {88} more than
three declared players the last rule does not apply.)
The other players play in rotation to the card led, subject also to certain
fixed rules, viz. each player must follow suit, if possible, and he must
"head the trick," _i.e._ play a higher card to it, if able to do so. If
unable to follow suit, he is bound to trump, or if the trick be already
trumped, to over-trump, if practicable.
The winner of each trick leads to the next. He is under the same
obligations as the original leader, and is further bound to lead a trump,
if he has one. This latter obligation is briefly stated as "trump after
trick."
The hand having been played out, the pool is divided, in the proportion of
one-third to each trick. Suppose, for instance, that five persons have
played; that one of them has taken two, and another one trick. The first
takes two-thirds, and the second one-third. The remaining three players are
"looed," _i.e._ mulcted in the same amount as was originally placed in the
pool, and these "loos," as they are called, with alike contribution from
the new dealer, form the pool for the next hand. It may, however, happen
that only three players declare to play, and that each of them takes one
trick. In such case no one is looed, and the only fund to form the pool for
the next round is the contribution of the dealer. The next hand in such
case is known as a "single," and it is a usual, though not invariable,
rule, to make it what is called a "must," meaning that every one, whatever
his cards, is bound to play. This necessarily produces as many loos (less
three) as there are players, and consequently a full pool for {89} the next
hand. In the case of a "must" there is no miss.
In circles where the interest of a game is gauged by the amount of money
that changes hands, the payment for a loo is sometimes made equal to the
amount which may chance to be in the pool for the time being. Playing upon
this principle, the amount of a loo tends constantly to increase, until the
occurrence of a single (_i.e._ three players only declaring to play, and
each taking one trick) brings it back to its normal proportions. Loo in
this shape is known as "unlimited." Under such an arrangement pence grow to
pounds with startling rapidity, so much so, indeed, that no prudent player
will ever sit down to the game in this form, and even among the most
reckless it is customary to fix a _maximum_ beyond which no further advance
shall be permitted.
FIVE-CARD LOO.
In this case five cards are dealt to each player, the card next following
being turned up by way of trump. There are, therefore, five tricks to be
contended for, and the contributions to the pool are made divisible by
_five_ accordingly. There is, in this case, no miss, but each player
(beginning with elder hand) may discard as many cards as he pleases, the
dealer replacing them with a like number from the remainder of the pack. It
is at the option of each player either to play or to pass, but having once
drawn cards he is bound to play. The discarded cards are thrown face
downwards in the centre of the table.
There is in this case a variation, in the fact that the knave of clubs,
known as Pam, is made a sort of {90} paramount trump, taking precedence
even of the ace of the trump suit. The rules as to leading, following suit,
and heading the trick, are the same as at the three-card game. If, however,
the ace of trumps be led, and the holder pronounces the formula "Pam, be
civil," the holder of the latter card is bound to pass the trick, if he can
do so without a revoke.
Special value is in this game given to a flush, _i.e._ five cards of the
same suit, or (which are regarded as equivalent) four cards of the same
suit and Pam. The holder of such hand at once turns up his cards, and
"looes the board," _i.e._, wins every trick as of right, without playing
his hand, even though stronger individual cards were in the hands of other
players. No one is in this case allowed to throw up his cards, and all save
the holder of the flush are looed. Should more than one player hold a
flush, a flush in trumps has priority over one in a plain suit. As between
two flushes in trumps, or two in plain suits, that consisting of the better
cards wins.[29] The holder of the losing flush, or of Pam, if in the hand
of one of the losers, is exempt from payment. In other respects the game
resembles three-card loo.
Some players at either game maintain what is termed "club law," meaning
that whenever a club is turned up by way of trump, every one is bound to
play. In such case there is no miss or drawing of cards.
{91}
THE LAWS OF LOO.
These may be briefly stated as follows:
1.--Each player has a right to shuffle at the commencement of a deal, the
dealer shuffling last. The cards shall then be cut by the player to the
right of the dealer. To constitute a valid cut, there shall be at least
four cards in each portion of the pack.
2.--The cards shall be dealt one at a time to each player [with one card
extra in each round for miss].[30] This having been done, the card next
following on the pack shall be turned up as trump. If a card be found faced
in the dealt portions of the pack, the cards shall be reshuffled and recut,
and there shall be a fresh deal by the same dealer.
3.--If the dealer--
(1) Deals without having the pack cut; or again shuffles after the pack
has been duly cut;
(2) Exposes a card in dealing; deals too many or too few cards to any
player;
(3) Misses a hand or deals a hand or part of a hand additional;
(4) Or otherwise commits any irregularity in dealing, it is a misdeal,
and the dealer forfeits a single to the pool. The cards are again
shuffled and cut, and there is a fresh deal by the same dealer.
{92}
4.--Players shall declare whether they play or pass in strict rotation,
beginning with the elder hand.
5.--Any player declaring before his turn, or looking at his cards before it
is his turn to declare, forfeits a single to the pool.
6.--Any player looking at miss before he has declared to take it, or
exposing a card or cards of another player, forfeits a single to the pool,
and must retire from the game for that round.
7.--The dealer, taking miss against one player only, must declare before
doing so, whether he play for himself or the pool. In the latter case he
cannot be looed; but the proceeds of any trick he may make are left in the
pool, to abide the result of the next hand.
8.--If no one declares to play, the dealer is entitled to the pool.
9.--A player having the lead, and holding the ace of trumps (or king, ace
being turned up), is bound to lead it.
10.--A player having the lead, and holding two trumps, is bound to lead one
of them.
11.--A player having the lead, and holding two trumps, other than in
sequence or of equal value, is bound (when there are two players only), to
lead the highest.
12.--Every player is bound to follow suit if able to do so.
13.--Every player is bound to head the trick if able to do so.
14.--Every player winning a trick, and still holding one or more trumps, is
bound to lead a trump.
Any player committing any infractions of Laws 9, {93} 10, 11, 12, 13, or
14, must leave in the pool any tricks he may make, and forfeit to the pool
four times the amount of a single.
15.--If a player, having declared to play--
(1) Exposes a card before it is his turn to play, _or_
(2) Plays a card out of turn, _or_
(3) Plays a card before all have declared, _or_
(4) Exposes a card while playing, so as to be named by any other
declared player,
He shall be compelled to throw up his cards, and to forfeit a single to the
pool.
16.--In the case of a revoke, it is in the option of any player, other than
the offender, to require that the cards be taken up and the hand played
again.
17.--All penalties of a single shall be deemed to belong to the existing
pool; all higher penalties and proceeds of tricks left by way of penalty in
the pool to the pool next following.
* * * * *
{94}
NAPOLEON.
There are two or three versions of Napoleon, or "Nap." We will begin with
THE ORTHODOX GAME.
The old game of Napoleon consists simply of five cards being dealt out
singly and in order to each of the party, and then the players declaring in
their turn how many tricks they think they can make. The eldest hand--that
is, the player to the dealer's left--has the first call, and every one
after him can declare by increasing his call, up to the limit, "Nap," which
is a declaration to take all the five tricks. Whoever makes the highest
call has all the other players pitted against him, and leads out--that is
to say, he puts a card face upwards on the table in front of him, the
playing of that card determining the trump suit, as whatever suit is first
led by the caller is trumps by virtue of the lead. The players then follow
in order, it being imperative to follow suit if possible, but, except for
this, any card may be played. There is no rule as to heading a trick or
playing a trump after a trick, or indeed any restriction {95} whatever
beyond following the led suit if you can, under penalty of a revoke for
trumping or discarding when holding a card of the suit called for. The
highest card of the led suit takes the first trick, and the winner leads a
card to the second trick, the cards played not being packed or gathered
together, but being left face upwards in front of their owners. The winning
card is alone turned down. The winner of the second trick leads to the
third, and so on, the declaration succeeding or failing according as the
caller makes or fails to make the number of tricks that he declared. It
matters nothing whether he makes two or even three tricks more than he
declared to make; he is only paid for the number that he originally
announced, and even if he does not take a trick, he simply pays for the
number he called.
It is a level-money transaction all round; that is to say, if a man calls
three at "penny Nap," he receives 3d. from every other player if he makes
the three tricks, and pays 3d. to every other player if he does not make
three tricks. But if he calls Napoleon (five tricks) he receives 10d. if he
wins, and only pays 5d. if he loses. We may say here that in most places
where penny Nap is played, the 10d. and 5d. are raised to 1s. to win and
6d. to lose, on the plea of making it even money. The round being over and
the stakes paid, the deal passes in the usual way to the person to the left
of the last dealer, and so on.
This is the old simple form of Napoleon, and it is what most people
understand by the game. It is without complication of any kind, and the
skill it requires is of two sorts--first, to judge the value of a hand with
due regard to the number of players {96} and any calls that may have been
made previously, and, next, how to play the hand--whether as caller or as
one of the combination against the call--to the best advantage.
THE VARIATIONS.
Here we may first note the call of "Wellington," which is a superior call
to Napoleon, inasmuch as it supersedes the latter. As in the Nap call, the
player undertakes to make the whole five tricks, but at double the Nap
stakes. Thus, if the caller of Nap receives 1s. or pays 6d., on a
Wellington he would receive 2s., or pay 1s. Wellington can only be called
over Napoleon, that is, it cannot be declared unless "Nap" is declared
before it.
Another innovation is an adaptation from Solo Whist, and is called
"Misery." It is on the principle of the Misere, when, there being no
trumps, the caller has to lose the whole five tricks, while his opponents,
of course, endeavour to force him to take a trick. At some tables trumps,
determined in the usual way by the initial lead, are recognised; but this
feature is quite foreign to the original Misere. If trumps are recognised
the caller should invariably lead a single suit--_i.e._ a suit consisting
of one card only. This declaration ranks between the calls of _three_ and
_four_, and is paid for in the same way as a call of three is paid for;
that is, at our stakes, to win would be to receive 3d. from each of the
other players, and to lose would be to pay 3d. to each.
"Sir Garnet" consists of an excess hand of five cards, dealt in the usual
way and left on the table. {97} Until this extra hand is appropriated, each
player, when it is his turn to call, has the privilege of taking it up and
combining it with his own hand. From the ten cards thus in his possession
he must reject five, which he throws away face downwards, and on the
remaining five he is bound to declare "Nap." The stakes are the same as on
an ordinary Nap call.
In "Peep Nap" one extra card only is dealt, face downwards on the table,
and each player, on his turn to call, may at his option have a private peep
at the card by paying one penny--or higher, according to the stakes--into
the pool. When all the players have called, the superior declaring hand has
the privilege, if he has "peeped," of exchanging the table card for one of
his own. Nobody but the superior caller can exchange; nor, even if a player
calls Nap, can he appropriate the peep card until the following hands have
had the option of seeing it as above. In the event of a Nap call, it is as
a rule to the advantage of the following players to peep also, as, if the
caller uses the peep card, they have thereby a guide as to what suit to
save.
"Purchase" or "Ecarte" Nap, however, is unquestionably the most interesting
form of Napoleon. After the dealer has dealt, and before anybody starts
calling, the dealer goes round again in turn, and serves out fresh cards
from the pack in exchange for as many cards as the players may wish to
throw away from their original hands. For every fresh card so exchanged the
player has to pay one penny (or more, according to the stakes) into the
pool. He must not exchange cards more than once in {98} each round, but he
can then purchase any quantity up to five. The cards thrown away are not
shown, nor used again till the next deal. The dealer must sell to each
player in turn, and to himself last, after which the calls start from his
left in the usual way. In view of the extra number of cards brought into
the game, Purchase Nap should be confined to a table of not more than four
players, and for the same reason the calls should be made on much stronger
hands than at ordinary Nap.
THE POOL.
Napoleon is better played without a pool, because then players call the
strength of their hands and no more, and are not tempted into extravagance.
There is, however, not much practical harm in playing with a small pool or
"kitty." The simplest way to make up a pool is for every dealer to put in a
penny. If this will not satisfy the players, there are two ways of making a
pool mount up more rapidly. They are, that every dealer shall put in 3d.
and every player 1d. every time, or that every player of a knave or a five
of any other suit than trumps shall contribute 1d. to the pool. The pool
remains and accumulates until somebody succeeds in the call of Napoleon--or
Wellington, where that higher call is allowed. The player who calls Nap and
fails, does not usually have to double or even increase the pool. At some
tables, however, the caller of Nap who fails to make it has to pay into the
pool the same amount as is already there. This point should be agreed upon
before beginning the game. In Peep or Purchase Nap the pools are made by
the {99} payments for "peeping" and "purchasing" respectively, and other
methods of contributing to the kitty are dispensed with. The successful
caller of Napoleon always takes the pool.
THE GAME EXPLAINED FOR NOVICES.
Nap is played by any number of persons, from two to six, with a full pack
of fifty-two cards, ranking as at Whist, ace highest and deuce lowest. The
original deal is determined by turning up a card in front of each of the
players, when the lowest turned up indicates the first dealer. The ace is
in this case regarded as the lowest card.
When it is ascertained who is to deal, the player on his left shuffles the
cards, and the dealer may shuffle them after him if he chooses. They are
then cut by the player on the dealer's right, and the dealer distributes
them face downwards, one by one, beginning of course to the left.
There is no turn-up, and the undealt cards must be placed in a heap face
downwards in the middle of the table, and not touched until the round is
over, except at Purchase Nap, when the dealer retains possession of the
pack until the purchases have been effected.
Then follows the process of calling, which has been already described.
We have gone upon the principle of calling the stake a penny per trick, but
of course it can be sixpence, or any other amount. It may, however, be
observed that "Penny Purchase" is really as expensive as threepenny
ordinary Nap.
There are some few points to be remembered. {100}
A declaration once made stands, and cannot be recalled.
A player at Purchase Nap, having once bought fresh cards or refused to buy,
cannot subsequently amend his decision.
Unless there is an agreement to the contrary, the dealer must, in default
of any higher call, make one trick, or pay 1d. each to the other players.
Any one who has trumped a suit, or renounced upon a suit before all the
five tricks have been played out, and so made or defeated a declaration,
must immediately show his remaining cards to prove that he has not revoked.
So stringent is this rule, that if he should refuse to show them, he is
held to have revoked, and a revoke entails the following penalties:--
On the revoke being discovered, the cards must be taken up and replayed
properly--that is to say, players must follow suit, if they can; and always
remember that a revoke is just as much a revoke if you throw away a card of
another suit, holding a card of the suit led, as if you trumped under the
same circumstances.
The hand having been replayed, the offender pays the stakes for himself and
every one of the other players to the caller, if the call succeeds. If the
call fails, he pays the stakes to every other player, except the caller.
A revoke proved against the caller himself entails the immediate penalty of
the loss of the stakes; that is to say, if a man calls three and revokes,
it matters not how many tricks he makes, he must pay (at penny Nap) 3d. to
every one of his opponents.
If a card is exposed in the pack or in dealing, or {101} if there is a
mis-deal, or if the pack is shown to be faulty, or if the cards are dealt
without being cut, there should be a fresh deal by the same player.
Any player can demand a fresh deal if any one of these faults is committed,
but the demand must be made before the hands are looked at; otherwise the
deal must stand.
After all the calls have been declared, should a player discover that he
has too few or too many cards the game must be played out, and if the
number in the superior caller's hand be correct he takes the stakes, if he
succeeds in making his call good, but neither receives nor pays if he
fails. Should the caller, however, hold a wrong number in his hand, he
neither receives nor pays if he wins, but pays if he fails. When a Nap is
declared, the game must be played out subject to the above rules, whether
the other players have their correct number or not; but, failing a Nap
call, the cards must be redealt should any irregularity be discovered
before all the players have declared.
There is one rule at Napoleon that has fallen into disuse, and that relates
to playing out of turn. It is so common for persons to play valueless or
losing cards out of turn without remark, that many people forget that the
fortunes of a hand may often be influenced by the premature exposure of the
winning card or a trump. A person who, out of his turn, plays a card that
obviously influences the game should be subjected to the same penalty as if
he had revoked. {102}
THE NUMBER OF PLAYERS.
By far the best Nap table is made up of four players, because then dash and
prudence must be pretty well equalised to play well. With three players
great risks are commonly run, and with six, failures are so frequent that
the game often gets tedious through a monotonous series of "two" calls.
There are so many better games for two players that we need say little
about what is called Single Nap. It consists of a series of bluffing calls,
experience soon teaching that it is safer to call three or four on a weak
hand than to allow your adversary to take the lead.
"Three" Nap is very nearly a game of chance. Only fifteen cards, or
practically one quarter of the pack, are in play, so that the chances are
nearly three to one against any given card being out. Consequently great
risks are run, and these risks are for the most part justified. A player
should call Nap on any hand of one suit headed by an honour, however small
the remaining cards; while he has a tolerable chance of making the same
call upon any hand consisting of two suits, if he has four cards of the
first suit headed by an honour, and an ace, king, or queen to fill up his
hand. Where the hand consists of three or four suits, the cards that are
not trumps should be aces or kings to make the call a prudent one.
Reverting to the game as played by four or five players, the novice may be
advised to lead trumps against the caller when he only requires one more
trick, and, as a general rule, to let trumps alone when {103} the caller
has more than one trick to make to establish his declaration.
In conclusion, remember that on an ordinary call your first discard should
be from your shortest and weakest suit, and bear the fact in mind as you
note the discards of other players. In a Misery, your original discard
should be your highest card of your shortest suit--a single card for
preference, unless it be a deuce or tray.[31]
* * * * *
{104}
PIQUET.
Piquet is generally regarded as the best of card games for two players.
It is played with a pack of thirty-two cards, which is called a "piquet
pack," all below the seven being excluded. The cards rank in Whist
order--ace, king, queen, knave, ten, nine, eight, seven.
The score is made partly by combinations of cards held in the hand, and
partly by points marked in the course of play.
THE DEAL.
The two players cut for deal, and in this cutting the ace ranks the
highest. The player who cuts the higher card has the choice of first deal.
After this the players deal alternately.
It is customary to use two packs of cards, and the first dealer has the
choice which pack he will use. Each player has a right to shuffle both his
own and the adversary's pack, the dealer shuffling last. After this the
pack is "cut to the dealer" by the adversary, as at Whist.
It is customary to call the non-dealer the "elder hand." {105}
The dealer must deal the cards by two at a time or by three at a time,
giving the top cards to his adversary, the next to himself, and so on,
until each has twelve cards.
The eight cards that remain (called the "stock") are placed face downwards
between the players.
There are no trumps in this game.
DISCARDING AND TAKING IN.
Before anything else is done, each player has a right to reject some of his
cards, and take others in their place.
The elder hand begins. He has the privilege of discarding from his hand any
number of cards not exceeding five (he _must_ discard at least one), and
taking a corresponding number from the top of the stock. If he does not
take all his five, he may look at those he leaves, concealing them,
however, from the other player.
The dealer may then discard and replace in like manner, taking the cards
from the stock in the order in which he finds them. He is bound to discard
one, and he may, if he pleases, take all that remain, or any number of
them. He may look at any cards of his own portion of the stock he leaves
behind; but if he does, the elder hand may demand to see them too, after
playing his first card, or naming the suit he intends to play.
CALLING.
The hands being thus made up, the elder hand proceeds to declare or "call"
the scoring {106} combinations he may hold, in the following manner. There
are three things in the hand that may be scored, namely (1) the _point_;
(2) the _sequence_; (3) the _quatorze_ or _trio_.
(1) The _point_ is scored by the party who has the most cards of one suit.
The elder hand states how many he has. If the dealer has not so many, he
says "Good," and the elder hand scores one for each card; if the dealer has
more, he says "Not good," and the elder hand, scoring nothing, passes on to
the next item. If the dealer happens to have the same number, he says
"Equal," and then the elder hand must count and declare the number of the
pips--the ace counting eleven, the court cards ten each, and the others
what they are. The highest number of pips makes the cards "good," and
invalidates those of the other party. If the number of pips are equal,
neither scores.
(2) The second item is scored by the party who has the best _sequence_,
that is, the greatest number of consecutive cards, not less than three, of
the same suit, or, if an equal number, those of the highest rank. Thus,
ten, nine, eight, seven are better than ace, king, queen; but ace, king,
queen are better than king, queen, knave; and so on. A sequence of three
cards, no matter what, counts three; of four cards, four; beyond this ten
are added, so that a sequence of five cards counts fifteen; of six cards,
sixteen; and so on. The elder hand declares his best sequence. If the
dealer has a better, he says "Not good"; if only inferior ones, he says
"Good." In the latter case the holder scores not only for the _best_
sequence, but for every other he holds in his hand; all the opposite party
may hold being {107} invalidated. If the best sequences are equal, neither
scores.
(3) The third item is called the _quatorze_, from the fact that four aces,
four kings, four queens, four knaves, or four tens in one hand, if "good,"
score fourteen. Three of either kind (called a _trio_) score three. In
deciding which party is to score, the higher cards are better than the
lower, but any four like cards take precedence of the best three. Thus four
tens are better than three aces; but three aces are better than three
kings, and so on. The elder hand names his best quatorze or trio, to which
the dealer says "Good" or "Not good," as the case may be; and, as with the
sequence, the one who has the best scores all others he may hold, while
those of the opponent are all destroyed.
The point and sequence, when scored by either party, must be shown to the
other, if asked for.
THE PLAY.
The items in the elder hand thus being counted, the holder lays down one
card, thus beginning the "play." The dealer plays to this; but, immediately
before doing so, he calls and counts all _he_ has to score in his hand.
The play, the object of which is to gain tricks, follows the ordinary Whist
rule; the second player being obliged to follow suit, if he can, and the
best card winning. If he cannot follow suit, he loses the trick, throwing
away any card he pleases.
The scoring of the play is peculiar. The first player to every trick counts
one for the card he so plays; but if the second player wins the trick, he
{108} also counts one. The player who takes the last trick counts an extra
one for it.
If either player wins more than six tricks, he scores _ten_ "for the
cards," as it is called. If the two players win six tricks each, there is
no score "for the cards" on either side.
EXAMPLE.
What has been above described constitutes the simple or ordinary game.
There are some additional scores for extraordinary cases; but before we
mention them it will be well to illustrate the foregoing directions by an
example of an imaginary hand, which will show that although the description
may appear complicated, the practice is very easy.
A and B play at Piquet, B being the dealer, and A the elder hand. B deals
out the following cards:
To A.
Spades--nine, seven.
Hearts--ace, nine, eight.
Clubs--knave, ten, seven.
Diamonds--knave, ten, nine, eight.
To B.
Spades--queen, ten, eight.
Hearts--queen, knave, seven.
Clubs--ace, king, queen, eight.
Diamonds--king, queen.
After the deal the stock contains cards in the following order:
Ace of diamonds (top card).
Nine of clubs.
Seven of diamonds.
{109}
Ace of spades.
King of hearts.
------
King of spades.
Ten of hearts.
Knave of spades (bottom card).
A has a poor hand, and must take all his five cards, in the hope of
improving it. He must keep his diamond suit entire; so he discards the nine
and seven of spades, the nine and eight of hearts, and the seven of clubs,
taking in the five upper cards from the stock.
B's is already a good hand with the quatorze of queens--which he knows must
be "good"--a fair chance for the point, and other favourable cards for
trick-making. But he discards the ten and eight of spades and the seven of
hearts with the hope of improvement, taking in the three remaining cards of
the stock.
The two hands are then as follows: A (elder hand) has ace of spades, ace
and king of hearts, knave, ten, nine of clubs, and ace, knave, ten, nine,
eight, seven of diamonds. B (dealer) has king, queen, knave of spades;
queen, knave, ten of hearts; ace, king, queen, eight of clubs, and king and
queen of diamonds.
The following conversation may be supposed to take place:
A: My point is 6.
B: Good.
A (shows his diamonds, or says,--in diamonds; and then adds): My best
sequence in the quint to the knave of diamonds. {110}
B: Good.
A: I have also a tierce to another knave (shows knave, ten, nine of clubs,
or says,--in clubs).
A: And I have three aces.
B: Not good.
A: Then I score 6 for the point, 15 for the quint sequence, and 3 for the
tierce, making 24.
He then plays ace of diamonds, and says: 25.
B: I score 14 for four queens, and 3 for three kings--total 17.
B (plays queen of diamonds, and repeats): 17.
A (plays seven of diamonds): 26.
B (taking it with king): 18.
B (leads ace of clubs): 19.
A (follows with knave): 26.
B (plays king of clubs): 20.
A (ten of clubs): 26.
B (queen of clubs): 21.
A (nine of clubs): 26.
B (eight of clubs): 22.
A (throws away king of hearts): 26.
B (leads king of spades): 23.
A (takes it with ace): 27.
A (now leads knave of diamonds): 28.
B (anything): 23.
A (ten of diamonds): 29.
B (anything): 23.
A (nine of diamonds): 30.
B (anything): 23.
A (eight of diamonds): 31.
B (anything): 23.
A (ace of hearts): 32.
B (his last card): 23. {111}
A: Then I score 1 for the last trick--33, and 10 for the cards;[32] that
makes me in all 43.
B: And I score 23.
A note is made of these numbers, and the next deal is proceeded with. We
shall hereafter explain how the final score is made up from the results
obtained in the successive hands; but before doing this it will be well to
complete the description of the scoring elements.
Piquet is remarkable for containing certain _extraordinary chances_, some
of them of great scoring value. These are four in number, namely, the
_Carte Blanche_, the _Repique_, the _Pique_, and the _Capot_.
CARTE BLANCHE.
If the hand originally dealt to either player contains neither a king, a
queen, nor a knave (no picture card, in fact, whence the name), it entitles
the holder to score ten.
As soon as the player is aware that he has this, he is bound to inform his
adversary; and after the adversary has discarded, he is bound to show his
carte blanche by counting the cards, one by one, on the table.
The score for a carte blanche takes precedence of all other scores.
REPIQUE.
When either player can score thirty or more by the contents of his hand
alone, before his adversary can score anything, he gets what is called a
repique, which enables him to add _sixty_ to his score.
{112}
Thus, if the elder hand finds himself with, say--
A good point of five 5
A good quint sequence 15
A good quatorze 14
--
34
such a combination will enable him (if the dealer does not hold carte
blanche) to score ninety-four.
PIQUE.
When the elder hand counts something less than thirty in hand, but can make
it up to thirty by _play_ before his adversary counts one, he adds _thirty_
on this account to his score. This is a _pique_. It is obvious that a pique
can never be gained by the dealer, as his adversary always counts one for
the first card he plays.
CAPOT.
If either of the players gain _all_ the tricks, he scores _forty_ for them,
instead of ten for the majority. This is called a _capot_.
Pique, repique, and capot are not unfrequent; but the occurrence of carte
blanche is exceedingly rare, occurring only about once in nine hundred
deals.
As an example of how these extraordinary chances tell, suppose that the
elder hand, after discarding, should find himself with four major tierces
in his hand, the dealer having only three cards of each suit, including at
least one knave, so as to prevent a carte blanche; the elder hand would
then score as follows: {113}
_In the hand_--
Point 3
Four tierce sequences 12
Three quatorzes 42
--
57
Add for the repique 60
_In play_--
Twelve cards, all winning 12
For the last card 1
For the capot 40
--
Total score for one hand 170
When it is considered that in some hands the score may be nothing, and that
it may vary in all degrees between these, the variety obtainable will be
strikingly evident.
THE FINAL SCORE.
It is necessary now to explain what is done with the scores made in the
successive hands, and how the final adjustment is effected.
According to the original mode of playing, the game consisted of 100
points; indeed, in early times the name _Cent_ (corrupted into Sant or
Saunt) appears to have been applied to it. Hoyle adhered to this, but at
some later period the 100 was altered to 101. This was also the ordinary
way of playing the game in France, and has been generally adhered to in
England until the last few years. According to this, the score of each hand
is registered, either by writing it down, or by some kind of marking
contrivance, and the whole added up until the 100 limit is reached by one
of the parties. The game may extend over several hands, or it may, by the
aid of the extraordinary scores, be completed in one. {114}
It will, however, often happen that both parties may arrive simultaneously
near the 100 score, and it then becomes necessary to register carefully and
in proper order the scores made at the different stages of the hand by the
two parties respectively. The laws prescribe that the scores, whether
obtained by the elder hand or by the dealer, shall be reckoned in the
following order of precedence--viz.:
1. Carte blanche.
2. Point.
3. Sequences.
4. Quatorzes and trios.
5. Points made in play.
6. The cards.
Applying, therefore, the scores made by either player under each of these
heads, in the order named, the one who first reaches 100 will have won the
game.
This simple game of 100 may suffice for domestic amusement; but a few years
ago an alteration was made in the practice of the clubs, by the
introduction of what is called the _Rubicon Game_, which is as follows:
There is no definite number of points constituting a game, but the players
play six deals, forming what is called a "partie." The scores made by each
player in each deal are registered on a card, and at the end of the partie
they are added together. The partie is won by the player who has made the
highest aggregate score. The winner then deducts his adversary's score from
his own, and 100 is added to the difference, which makes the number of
points won.
Thus, suppose A has scored in the six deals 120 {115} points, and B 102, A
wins 120 - 102 + 100 = 118 points, for which he has to be paid.
But there is another condition, namely, the establishment of 100 as a
"Rubicon." The law says that, if the loser fail to reach this amount, the
winner reverses the rule, and instead of _deducting_ the loser's score
_adds_ it to his own.
Thus, if A has scored 120, and B only 98, A wins 120 + 98 + 100 = 318,
although the loser is only four short of his former score.
This mode of scoring has now superseded, at the clubs, the original 100
game. It certainly adds a new feature to the play; for if a player finds,
towards the end of the partie, that he is not likely to reach the Rubicon,
it is his interest to score as few points as possible, instead of trying to
win.
APPLICATION OF SKILL.
The skill required in Piquet applies to the rejection of cards from the
original hand, and to the subsequent play, both of which offer excellent
scope for intelligence and judgment. It would be impossible, in the short
space at our disposal, to enter into all the complicated considerations
which influence this matter. These, therefore, must be studied in larger
works on the game.[33] The essay by Hoyle, printed in the modern editions
of his "Games," contains much useful instruction, though not very clearly
conveyed. The following are some hints taken from it:
In discarding, it is a great object to retain such cards as will be likely
to favour your winning "the {116} cards," _i.e._ making the majority of
tricks, which will generally make a difference of twenty-two or
twenty-three points to the score. Do not, therefore, throw out good
trick-making cards for the hope of getting high counting sequences or
quatorzes, the odds for which are considerably against you.
The next attention should be to your "point," which will induce you to keep
in that suit of which you have the most cards, or that which is your
strongest. Gaining the point generally makes ten difference in the score.
Good authorities attach even more importance to the point than to the
cards, because it scores earlier, and may save a pique or a repique.
Of course, you would retain a good sequence--good, that is, either in
respect to length or to rank of cards. A sequence of four is especially
valuable, because, if you happen to take in one card in addition to it, it
may add ten to your score. And even a sequence of three is not to be
despised, as that also invites useful increase from the take-in.
Of course, also, you would keep any quatorze if you have it, even if low,
as it would destroy three aces in the adversary's hand.
A trio should also be kept, if it can be done without detriment to the
cards or the point, as there is always a possibility of converting it into
a quatorze. (If you take in five cards, it is only three to one against
your doing so, _i.e._ you would probably succeed once in four times.)
But Hoyle gives a case to show caution in this respect. Suppose you have
ace, king, queen, and seven of hearts, and two other queens, and that it
was a question whether you should discard one of your queens or the seven
of hearts. If you discard {117} the latter, it is three to one against your
getting the queen quatorze; but if you discard the queen, it is five to two
that you will take in another heart, which would probably give you not only
the point, but also five certain tricks towards the "cards."
Suppose you, being elder hand, receive queen, ten, nine, eight, and seven
of clubs, knave, ten of diamonds; king, queen and knave of hearts; ace and
nine of spades, the natural impulse would be to retain the clubs intact for
the point and sequence, and discard from the other suits. But Hoyle
recommends you to _discard all the clubs_. It is true that if you took in
the knave of clubs it would be a good thing, but it is three to one against
it, whereas, if you keep the other suits intact, you will take in something
that will give you a better chance of scoring than you could have made by
the other course.
It may assist your discard to consider, by inference from your own hand,
what the adversary can or cannot possibly hold. For example, if you are
very short of a suit, he may have a long point or sequence in it. If you
have any honour or ten, he cannot hold a quatorze of that rank, but if you
are short of one, he may do so; also your holding a knave or ten, or some
other combinations, will prevent him from holding a quint in that suit, and
so on.
Beware how you unguard kings and queens. If, being elder hand, you reject a
guard to a king, it is probable that in taking five cards you may replace
it; but when you are younger hand, it is highly desirable to retain the
guard, and for this purpose it is considered further advisable to keep a
small card of a bad suit, that it may serve as a guard for a king if you
should take one in. {118}
In some positions you must regulate your discard according to the score.
Thus, if you only want a few points, it would be foolish to lay out with a
view to any large object; you would devote all your attention to what
counts first, namely, the point and sequences; success in which might carry
you out before your opponent could get in. On the other hand, if your
adversary is much in advance of you, you can probably only retrieve your
fortune by a large score, and you would discard with this view. To consider
the "cards," unless with a view to a capot, would be useless.
It is considered desirable for you, if elder hand, to take all five of your
cards, unless you have a chance of a great score, and there can be no
repique against you. The consideration is not only whether the cards will
benefit you, but also whether, if you leave them, they may not much more
benefit your adversary.
If the younger hand should have dealt to him a hand which will enable him
to make six tricks, Hoyle advises that he should not make such a discard as
will incur the risk of losing the "cards," unless he should be very
backward, and have a scheme for a great game.
In regard to the play of the hand, it is difficult to lay down rules, but
an acquaintance with Whist play will be a very useful general guide to the
student, showing him how to establish and bring in his suits, how to get
tenaces led up to, how to preserve guard to second-best cards, and so on.
The most essential thing is to secure the seventh trick, which scores the
"cards"; though, of course, every trick made is of importance to your
score, the last counting two. {119}
But the most important point in play is to discover and to take due
advantage of the contents of the adversary's hand. The compulsory calling
and showing of the various scoring elements give certain positive
indications; but many others may be obtained by a skilful player, by
inference from his own hand, and from the cards he may see of the stock,
and these indications may often be used to considerable advantage.
For this reason, there is an antagonistic exercise of skill in concealing
the contents of your hand from your adversary, in order to prevent his
drawing correct inferences. For example, a clever player will sometimes
refrain from claiming scoring-elements which he may hold, when he thinks
that by concealing them he may gain greater advantage in the play. This is
called "sinking."
With a bad hand great care is often necessary, by guarding second-best
cards, or otherwise, to gain a single trick and so save the capot, which
makes such a large score.
A more powerful aid to skill, both in discarding and playing, is to be
found in the study of the laws of probabilities, which are peculiarly
applicable at Piquet. Lengthy and elaborate statements of the chances will
be found in "Cavendish" and in the earlier editions of "Hoyle"; and are
well worth the attention of those who care to study the game fully.[34]
* * * * *
{120}
POKER.
There are several varieties of Poker, distinguished by the names of
"Straight," "Draw," "Stud," and "Whiskey" Poker respectively. These, again,
are played in different ways, varying with the locality, scarcely any two
States of America, the home of the game, being fully agreed as to its
correct form. So fully is this divergence recognised, that even in America
a company, sitting down to play Poker together for the first time, usually
begin by discussing how the game shall be played in respect of the various
points of difference. We shall endeavour to give a clear idea of what (if
any) may be called the standard games, with a few of the more important
variations.
The most popular variety is Draw Poker, though the full name is rarely
used, the single word "Poker" being usually understood to indicate the
"Draw" game.
Draw Poker is played with the full pack of fifty-two cards. There is no set
limit to the number of players, but five make the best game and six should
be the maximum. As each player holds five cards at the outset, and has the
right, if he so pleases, to {121} "draw" five more, it is obvious that if
even six players exercised their right to the full extent, the pack would
not suffice to supply their demands. As they never do fully exercise it,
with six players there is a sufficient margin; but with seven the margin is
inconveniently small.
The stakes are represented by counters, known in America as "chips." We
will suppose that these are equivalent to pence. A certain amount, say
twelve counters, is fixed upon as the limit of the stake. As will be seen
hereafter, such limit is rather imaginary than real, applying merely to the
successive stages by which the ultimate total is reached, the latter being
(unless, by agreement, a limit is placed on this also) an unknown quantity.
The dealer having been selected, and the pack shuffled and cut, he proceeds
to deal round, one at a time, five cards to each player. First, however,
the elder hand, at this game known as the "Age," before seeing his cards,
starts the pool with a preliminary stake known as the "ante."[35] This must
not exceed _one-half_ the limit. Thus, in the case supposed of the limit
being twelve counters, the Age has the option of putting up any number from
one to six, as he pleases. This stake, from the fact that it is made
without seeing the cards, is known as a "blind."
[Illustration]
We will suppose that five players are taking part, whom we may distinguish
as A, B, C, D and E; that they are seated in the order indicated in the
diagram, and that A is the dealer. The deal passes from A to B, and so on.
B is in such case the Age, {122} and has put up, by way of ante a single
counter.[36] Each player looks at his cards, whose value depends upon his
possession of certain combinations, ranking in proportion to the rarity of
their occurrence. C is the first to declare. If his cards are so bad that
he has no hope of winning, he may "pass," _i.e._ go out of the game
altogether for that hand. In such case, he throws his cards, face
downwards, in front of the Age, who will in due course be the next dealer.
If, on the other hand, C thinks his cards worth playing on, he "goes in,"
_i.e._ he puts in the pool _double_ the amount staked by the Age. D, E and
A in rotation do the same, either "passing" and throwing up their cards, or
"going in" and placing in the pool a like amount to that just contributed
by C. When the turn of B (the Age) is reached, he has to make a similar
decision, and, if he decide to go in, must put in the pool a like amount to
that {123} which he first staked, thereby placing himself on an equal
footing with the other players.[37]
There is, however, another possible contingency. B has put up, by way of
ante, the minimum, one counter only. If either of the players holds a hand
which seems a probable winner, he may desire to put a heavier stake on it.
In such case, he must first make good the ante (_i.e._ hand in two
counters), and may then "go better," or offer a higher stake to the extent
of the limit. C, we will suppose, has simply made good the ante. D not only
does the same, but goes four better. He thus contributes in all, six
counters to the pool, and any subsequent player who desires to "go in,"
must also hand in six counters. Having done so, such subsequent player has
the option of again going better on his own account. We will suppose that E
makes good D's "raise," and goes three better, making in all nine counters.
A, we will assume, has but a poor hand, and sees small chance of winning.
Such being the case, he passes out, and throws up his cards, still,
however, retaining his functions as dealer. It is now the turn of B, the
Age, who has to consider whether, under these conditions, it is worth his
while to go in. Should he elect to do so, he must hand in eight counters,
_i.e._ nine, less the single counter which he staked by way of ante. If C
still elects to go in, he must pay seven counters, in addition to the two
he has already paid. D, in like manner, three counters.
Having reached this stage, the standing players {124} proceed to draw to
"fill their hands," _i.e._ discard their least valuable cards (throwing
them face downwards on the table), and receive a like number from the
dealer.
At this point, it may be convenient to state wherein the strength of a
poker hand lies, and what, therefore, is the object of the players. A poker
hand is valuable in so far as it contains certain cards, or combinations of
cards, ranking as under. We begin with the highest.
1. A STRAIGHT FLUSH, _i.e._ a sequence of five cards, all of the same suit.
N.B.--As between two sequences, that beginning with the highest card
has the preference. The ace may be treated at pleasure either as the
highest card or the lowest, and will, therefore, form a sequence either
with king, queen, &c., or with two, three, &c. Ace, king, queen, knave,
ten is the highest possible sequence. Ace, two, three, four, five, the
lowest.
2. FOURS, _i.e._ four cards of the same denomination, with one indifferent
card, the higher four having priority.
[Aces in this case count as highest, so that a four of aces is the best
possible.]
3. A FULL, _i.e._ three cards of the same denomination, and a pair.
[As between two fulls, the comparative value of the _three_ cards in
each case decides priority.]
4. A FLUSH, _i.e._ five cards of the same suit.
5. A STRAIGHT, _i.e._ five cards in sequence, but not of the same suit.
{125}
6. THREES, _i.e._ three cards of like denomination, with two indifferent
cards.
7. TWO PAIRS, with an indifferent card.
8. A PAIR, with three indifferent cards.
9. HIGHEST CARD. Where no hand has either of the above combinations, that
containing the highest card is the winner.
[As between pairs or sequences in opposing hands, the highest wins.
Where each holds two pairs, the two best are compared, and the highest
wins. In the event of equality of pairs, the hand containing the
highest indifferent card wins. In the event of absolute equality
between the two best hands, the pool is divided.]
A study of the foregoing table will make clear the objects aimed at by each
player, and the principles which regulate his discard. It may be taken for
granted that a player, having received a scoring combination, however
small, will certainly hold it. Thus with a pair and three indifferent
cards, the player would certainly retain the pair and exchange the rest, in
the hope of converting his pair into threes, or something better. With
threes, he would, as a rule, exchange the two indifferent cards, in the
hope of receiving a pair, and so transforming his "threes" into a "full."
With two pairs, he would exchange the odd card, in the hope of receiving
another of like denomination with one or other of his pairs, which again
would give him a "full."
It may occasionally happen that a player receives in the first instance a
hand so good that he is not likely to gain anything by drawing, and
prefers, {126} therefore, to stand on the cards given him. Such a hand is
known as a "pat" hand. The most obvious example of a hand which cannot gain
by drawing is that of fours. This, as we have seen, is the second highest
hand that can be held; indeed, a straight flush is of so rare occurrence,
and the holding of two fours by different players so unlikely a contingency
that a hand of "fours" is practically a safe winner. The odd card is in
such case worthless, but nothing for which it could be exchanged would add
to the value of the hand.
There is, however, another consideration to be taken into account in
determining whether to draw or not. This we shall deal with hereafter. For
the moment we will revert to our imaginary game. A has passed out; B, C, D
and E have respectively raised or made good the raise (to the extent,
including the ante, of nine counters each). We will now examine their
cards. B's hand consists of ace of hearts, queen and three of diamonds,
queen of clubs, and five of spades. He has thus a pair of queens, but the
remaining cards are at present worthless. C has ace of clubs, three and
four of spades, nine of hearts and two of diamonds, four out of the five
cards being in sequence. D has ten and eight of hearts, ten of spades,
knave of clubs, and eight of diamonds; a fairly good hand, for it contains
two pairs. E has five cards without any scoring combination, say eight and
three of clubs, king and four of hearts, and knave of spades.
B has the first claim to draw. He might very well discard all three of his
non-scoring cards, but such a proceeding would be tantamount to an
acknowledgement that he only had as yet a pair {127} and one of the main
points at Poker is to keep the adversaries in the dark as to the strength
of the player's hand. He has nearly as good a chance of making a three, or
two pairs, by exchanging two cards only, and accordingly does so, retaining
the pair and the ace of hearts. We will suppose that he draws the queen of
hearts and nine of diamonds. He has now threes of queens. C exchanges the
nine of hearts, in the hope of completing his sequence, but draws, say, the
knave of diamonds, which makes him no better. D, having already two pairs,
discards the odd card on the chance of drawing another eight or ten, either
of which would make him a "full," but actually draws, say, the five of
diamonds, which is useless. E's hand is absolutely worthless as it stands.
He might exchange all five cards, in the hope of drawing better, but to do
so would be to confess his weakness, and at Poker it is not always the best
hand that wins. He exchanges _one card only_, leaving it to be inferred
that he has either two pairs, threes, fours, or a flush or sequence lacking
one card. He discards the three of clubs, and receives, say, the ace of
spades, leaving his hand still worthless.
The betting is now resumed. In regular order it would be for B (the Age) to
start it, but he has the privilege, if he so pleases, of "holding the age,"
_i.e._ reserving his stake till the other players have had their say.[38]
C, therefore, is the first to declare. His cards are worthless, and he
decides to pass out. {128} D has but a moderate hand, for two pairs may
easily be beaten. On the other hand, they frequently win, and it would be
foolish to show the white feather until he knows a little more about the
hands of his adversaries. He goes five counters. E, as we have seen, has
nothing. He has two alternatives, either to go out and sacrifice what he
has already staked, or to endeavour to drive others out by a false pretence
of strength. Deciding for the latter alternative, he not only makes good
D's stake, but goes ten better, as though he held a capital hand. A has
already passed out; and it is, therefore, B's turn. He has "threes," a much
more than average hand, and far too good to be driven out of the field
without a struggle. Under such circumstances two alternatives are open to
him. He may simply make good the last raise, and say, "I'll see you" (in
which case all turn up their cards, and, having the better hand, B wins the
pool), or he may be inclined to speculate a little further. He makes good
the raise, and goes five better. C, it will be remembered, has already
passed out; and D, inferring from the persistence of E and B that they hold
pretty strong hands, thinks discretion the better part of valour, and goes
out also. The battle is now solely between B and E. B has a good hand, and
E has nothing; but if he is a bold player, he may still win. B's last
raise, which was to only half the limit, tends to indicate that he has not
a _very_ strong hand, and perhaps a little "bluffing" (as the betting upon
a worthless hand is called) may frighten him out of the field. Accordingly,
E not only makes good B's raise, but again goes the _maximum_ (ten) better.
Unless E has the reputation (a very undesirable one) {129} of a habitual
bluffer, B will probably begin to feel alarmed. E's repeated raises,
coupled with the fact that he only drew one card--a sign of a pretty strong
hand--suggest that he holds probably fours, if not a "full," "sequence," or
"flush," either of which would put B out of the running. He is again
confronted with the same alternatives--viz. to make good E's raise and see
him (in which case B would win); to go better, which seems hazardous; or to
pass out, thereby avoiding the necessity of making good the last raise. If
he is a timid player, he may possibly (either at this stage or later) adopt
the latter course, in which case E takes the pool _without showing his
cards_, thereby concealing the fact that they were worthless. This
privilege is very important, for "bluffing" is an essential part of the
game of Poker, and to bluff with success depends mainly on the adversaries'
ignorance of the habitual tendencies of the player in this particular. If a
player is known to be in the habit of bluffing, he does so at a great
disadvantage. The man who can bluff most successfully is the steady-going
player with whom high stakes are the usual indication of good cards. When
such a one begins to "plunge," the other players are apt to place
themselves in the position of the coon sighted by the crack marksman in the
American story, "Don't fire; I'll come down." Obviously, to expose the
cards on which a player has been steadily raising all competitors, and
reveal the fact that, instead of the expected "full," or "flush," there is
not even a solitary "pair" among them, would tend heavily to discount the
effectiveness of the same
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