The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume II
by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz · English · Gutenberg #38501 · 929,041 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume II
Author: Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz
Release date: January 5, 2012 [eBook #38501]
Most recently updated: January 8, 2021
Language: English
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[Illustration: Lestevenon de Berkenroode]
THE
MEMOIRS
OF
_CHARLES-LEWIS_,
Baron de POLLNITZ.
BEING
The OBSERVATIONS He made in his late TRAVELS from _Prussia_ thro'
_GERMANY_, || _FLANDERS_,
_ITALY_, || _HOLLAND_,
_FRANCE_, || _ENGLAND_, &c.
In LETTERS to his FRIEND.
Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE of the Chief CITIES and TOWNS;
BUT
The CHARACTERS of the PRINCIPAL PERSONS at the several COURTS.
In TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
The SECOND EDITION, with ADDITIONS.
_LONDON_:
Printed for DANIEL BROWNE, at the _Black-Swan_, without _Temple-Bar_.
M.DCC.XXXIX.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
LETTER XXVIII 1
LETTER XXIX 24
LETTER XXX 46
LETTER XXXI 55
LETTER XXXII 77
LETTER XXXIII 95
LETTER XXXIV 113
LETTER XXXV 129
LETTER XXXVI 151
LETTER XXXVII 168
LETTER XXXVIII 179
LETTER XXXIX 189
LETTER XL 203
LETTER XLI 228
LETTER XLII 261
LETTER XLIII 277
LETTER XLIV 290
LETTER XLV 310
LETTER XLVI 325
LETTER XLVII 337
LETTER XLVIII 348
LETTER XLIX 357
LETTER L 364
LETTER LI 384
LETTER LII 394
LETTER LIII 430
LETTER LIV 449
INDEX 473
FOOTNOTES
[Illustration]
MEMOIRS OF THE Baron de POLLNITZ.
In SEVERAL LETTERS to Mr. _L. C. D. S._
LETTER XXVIII.
_SIR_, _Rome, July 30, 1730._
Thus am I at length arrived at the famous City of ROME, that City which
has been so long the Mistress of the World, and is still the Metropolis of
_Europe_: But don't expect I should give you a perfect Description of it,
because that would require a Man better skilled in Architecture than I am.
I shall only mention such things as to me appeared to be the most
beautiful, or those which I thought the Reverse, and which yet the
Ostentation of the _Italians_ cries up for the Wonders of the World. I
shall make it my Business, to give you an Account of Things animate, much
rather than those which are inanimate; the latter having been so well
described, that all I could say to you upon that Head would be but a
Repetition of what you have read a thousand times over.
ROME is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World; but it is not now
That ROME of which we read such pompous Accounts, it having scarce any
Remains left of what it was in ancient Days. Notwithstanding this, it must
be owned, that it has matchless and stately Structures. Nothing is equal
to its Churches, its Fountains, and some of its Palaces. At one's first
Entrance thro' the Gate _del Popoli_, a Foreigner cannot but be struck
with Admiration, when he looks right before him, which methought resembled
the grand Decoration of a Theatre; but when I cast my Eyes to the Right
and Left, the Scene was quite different: I believed I was entring into a
Village. This is a Riddle, which I will now endeavour to explain to you.
When I looked strait before me, I immediately perceiv'd a Square of a
triangular Form, at one Point whereof stands the Gate _del Popoli_,
through which I entered, facing three very long Streets drawn to a Point,
in the Shape of a Goose-foot. These Streets are separated by two Churches,
the Fronts whereof are magnificent, and of regular Architecture. In the
middle of the Square there's a stately Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental
Granate, which, according to the Inscription on the Pedestal, was raised
by Pope _Sixtus_ V. At the foot of this Pyramid, on the Town-side, there's
a Fountain. All this together makes the Square a Beauty, and seemed to be
worthy of ROME: What follows appear'd to me to have the Air of a Village.
The first Thing one perceives at the Left-hand of the Square, is a Church
consecrated to Our Lady, the Architecture of which is very plain; and on
the same Side are several very sorry Houses, or rather Huts. The
Right-hand of the Square consists of Hay-Barns, and two or three wretched
Hovels.
From the Square _del Popoli_, I shall run through the three Streets which
lead from thence to the chief Quarters of ROME. I shall begin with that in
the Middle, which fronts the Gate. 'Tis called the Street _del Corso_,
because there it is that in the Carnival Time, the _Barbary_ Horses run
Races, and where there is the _Pasciggio_, or Ring, frequented every Day
by the Coaches. This Street runs thro' almost all ROME, and has some fine
Houses in it, particularly the Palaces _Ruspoli_, _Gicci_, _Carolis_,
_Mancini_, _Pamphili_, and _Bolognetti_. It crosses the Squares of St.
_Mark_ and _Colonna_. The first is a Quadrangle, encompassed with good
substantial Buildings, and adorned with the famous _Antonine_ Pillar,
which the Senate caused to be erected to the Honour of _Antoninus the
Pious_, whose Statue was formerly on the Top of it, but has since given
place to the Effigies of St. _Paul_. St. _Mark_'s Square is so called,
because it lies before the Church dedicated to the Saint of that Name. In
it stands the Palace of _Venice_, a vast Pile of Building, now occupied by
the Ambassador of the Republic, but was the Residence of Pope _Sixtus_ V.
The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square _del Popoli_, is
called _la Strada Ripetta_. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs
leading down to the _Tiber_, which are of a grand Design, and so
contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for
the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the
Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the principal Ports of ROME.
The third Street, which ends in the Square of _Spain_, has also nothing in
it worth seeing. To hear a _Roman_ speak of the Square of _Spain_, one
would think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that
less deserves that Character. 'Tis much narrower in the Middle than at
both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of _Spain_,
which is occupied by the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_[1], the Ambassador of that
Crown, and the Palace _de Propaganda_, it has not one handsome House. In
the Middle of it there's a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed
in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious
Stair-case, which leads to the Church of _Trinity on the Mountain_,
belonging to the _French Minims_. 'Twas made during the Pontificate of
Pope _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_, out of the Money which a
rich _Frenchman_ left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say,
that no less than 60,000 _Roman_ Crowns were expended in it; which, if
true, 'twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste
perfectly _Gothic_, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to
Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old
_Romans_ were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I
dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build.
The Square of _Spain_, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the
Place of Rendezvous for all the _Beau Monde_ in the City. Here the Ladies,
sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the
Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent
every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in ROME, mixed with Clouds of
Dust; and one is not only pester'd with Beggars, but every Minute in
Danger of being crush'd to pieces between the Coaches, which press
forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not
how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man
for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had
rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount _Trinity_. There I have
the Pleasure to see something of what passes in the Square of _Spain_; I
extend my View over all ROME, and even into the Country beyond it, and
there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the
Wheel. 'Tis true, that I see none except Abbés and Prelates; but they are
not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of
the Ladies Coaches.
Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of _Spain_, and the seven Streets
which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the
_Spanish_ Ambassador, whither the _Sbirri_ dare not pursue a Criminal, or
to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by
Bravo's, who, like the _Swiss_ of the _Spanish_ Minister, are very jealous
of their Rights of Franchise, which all Ambassadors enjoy as well as he:
This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say
it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an
Opportunity of finding Refuge; but 'tis a rare Income for the Bravo's and
their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their
Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection.
The Square of _Spain_ leads me to give you some Account of the Square
_Navona_, which, tho' by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the
Length of it, may be numbered among the finest Squares in the World. 'Tis
adorned with noble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention
of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order
of Pope _Innocent_ X. of the Family of _Pamphili_, according to a Model by
Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_, who has made a shining Display of his Art in
this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white
Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in
it, and on the Top there's an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate,
which was formerly in the _Circus_ of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_.
At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble,
sitting in Attitudes equally bold and noble, which represent the four
principal Rivers of the World, the _Ganges_, the _Nile_, the _Danube_, and
_Rio de la Plata_, in the _West-Indies_. These four Statues, tho' made by
different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes
suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an
oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin
cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous _Michael Angelo Buonarota_.
Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. _Agnes_,
begun by _Innocent_ X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes _Pamphili_.
'Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in ROME. The Inside is
an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent
Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace,
belonging to Prince _Pamphili_, who lets it out to the Cardinal
_Corsini_[2]. There's a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in
Painting.
The _Pantheon_, commonly called the Church _de la Rotonda_, because of its
round Figure, is a Monument of the Magnificence of ancient ROME, which has
been well preserved. _Agrippa_ caused this Temple to be built, with an
Intention to dedicate it to _Augustus_ his Father-in-Law; but he
afterwards devoted it to _Jupiter Ultor_, or _the Avenger_. Pope
_Boniface_ I. or, as others say, _Boniface_ IV. consecrated this Temple to
the True God, by dedicating it to the Holy Virgin and the Martyrs, with
the Title of _Sta. Maria ad Martyres_. Nothing is more Majestic than the
Portico of this Church, which is supported by sixteen Columns of oriental
Granate, of a wonderful Height and Circumference, all of a Piece, and of
the _Corinthian_ Order. The Church, which is round, receives Light only by
an Opening in the Middle of the Roof, which is built in Form of a Dome.
The Walls are lined with Marble, even up to the Cornish which supports the
Roof, and several little Chapels are cut out in the Wall. The Roof was
heretofore covered with Brass, but _Urban_ VIII. stripped the Church of
that magnificent Covering, and employ'd the Brass partly on the High Altar
of St. _Peter_'s Church, and of the rest of it he caused those Guns to be
cast that are still to be seen in the Castle of St. _Angelo_. The Pope who
did this, being of the _Barberini_ Family, gave Occasion to the _Romans_,
who take a Pleasure in criticising the Conduct of the Popes, to say, that
the _Barberini_ had done even more than the _Barbarians_; and really, it
is worthy of Remark, that in the several Sackings of ROME the _Rotonda_
was always spared.
St. _Peter_'s Church so astonished me, that I cannot pass it by in
Silence. To tell you in few Words what I think of it; I believe, that
though there were no other Building in ROME but this Church, it would be
worth while to make a Journey hither on Purpose to see it. The Area which
lies before this superb Pile, can't but be admired by all that see it.
Pope _Alexander_ VII. caused it to be laid out after the Model of my Hero
in Architecture, Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_. The Form of this Area is
round, and encompassed by a Peristyle of two hundred eighty-six Pillars,
which leads all the way under Covert to the Church. These Columns support
an Architrave adorned with a great Number of Statues, representing divers
holy Martyrs. The Area is adorned with two magnificent Fountains, which
continually throw out vast Sheets of Water, into three Basons, the
lowermost whereof, being the largest, serves to let out the Water, which
runs under Ground. An Obelisk of seventy-two Feet in Height, besides the
Basis, stands up in the Middle of the two Fountains. Pope _Sixtus_ V. who
may justly be reckoned the Restorer of ROME, on account of the Ornaments
with which he embellished every Part of it, caused it to be set up, after
'twas dug out of the Earth, near the Place where now stands St. _Peter_'s
Sacristy. He ordered it to be erected on a very high Pedestal; and Signior
_Fontana_, the famous Architect, was the Man by whose Direction so immense
a Weight was raised to that Height. 'Tis said, that Pope _Sixtus_ V.
commanded that every Man who assisted in raising this Obelisk should keep
Silence on Pain of Death, for fear lest Talking should distract the
Workmens' Thoughts, and take them off from a due Attention to the Orders
of the Architect; and as they knew that _Sixtus_ would be obeyed, not a
Man spoke a Word. The Work went on very well, till when the Spire was
almost raised, the Ropes happened to be too short. This Accident so
confounded _Fontana_, that he knew not what to do, when one of the
Spectators took it in his Head to call out to him to throw Water upon the
Ropes. _Fontana_ followed his Advice with such good Success, that the Pope
promised a Reward for the Person who would own that he gave it: But no
body cared to trust _Sixtus_; the Adviser concealed himself in the Crowd,
and it could never be known who he was. The whole Height of the Obelisk,
including the Base and Cross, is one hundred and eight Feet. _Sixtus_ V.
caus'd some Timber of the real Cross to be set in the Cross of gilt Brass
at the Top of the Spire, and granted ten Years Indulgences to any Person
that shou'd salute it, and at the same Time repeat three _Pater-nosters_,
and as many _Ave Maries_.
When you have passed over the great Square, there's an Ascent of some
Steps to a grand Platform or Terras, that leads into the Portico which is
before the Church. The Roof of it is supported by Columns of the
_Corinthian_ Order, adorned with Basso Relievos of Marble. The Cieling is
of Stukoe, divided into several Compartments in the _Mosaic_ Taste, which
form the Arms of _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family; the whole gilt all
over. As one turns to the Right in this Portico, one sees the Statue of
_Constantine_ the Great, carved in Marble by _Bernini_, who has
represented the Emperor on Horseback, in a Posture of Astonishment at the
Appearance of the Cross. Over-against this Statue, on the Left-side of the
Portico, is _Charlemaign_'s Statue, likewise on Horseback, done by
_Augustin Cornicchini_, a Native of _Peschia_ in _Tuscany_; but 'tis not
near so bold a Figure as that carved by _Bernini_. At the Entrance of the
Church, we leave on the Right-hand the holy Gate, which the Pope opens and
shuts every twenty-five Years, at the Time of the great Jubilee.
I must confess that the inside Decoration of St. _Peter_'s did not strike
me at first View; for I imagined that every thing there must be Gold and
Azure, but I was mistaken; tho', after having examined Things closely, I
was, as it were, in an Ecstasy at the Variety of Beauties I there saw. The
High Altar, which is almost in the middle of the Dome, is of a
Magnificence not to be parallelled. It stands by itself, and is on all
Sides open, consisting of four wreathed Columns of Brass, of an immense
Height and Bulk, which support a Canopy of the same Metal, surmounted by
Angels holding Festons of Flowers, so completely carved, that one would
naturally imagine the Whole to be the Work of a Goldsmith. At this Altar
none can celebrate Mass but the Pope himself, and the Cardinal Dean, by
his Holiness's express Permission; and underneath, in a Chapel richly
adorned, there lie some Parts of the Holy Bodies of the Apostles St.
_Peter_ and St. _Paul_. There's a Descent into this Chapel by a Stair-case
of fine Marble, consisting of two Flights, in Form of a Horse-shoe, and
surrounded by a Balustrade of Brass, supporting a great many Silver Lamps,
which never cease to burn, except on _Good-friday_, when the Church is
hung in Mourning, in Memory of the Death of our Saviour.
At the Bottom of the Church stands, highly elevated, St. _Peter_'s Chair,
a very fine Piece of Work, all of Brass, gilt, and supported by the four
Fathers of the Church, St. _Ambrose_, St. _Jerome_, St. _Augustine_, and
St. _Gregory_, of a gigantic Size, with a Glory of Brass, gilt, over them,
raised as high as the Roof. Under the Chair is an Altar, on both Sides of
which there are stately Tombs of Brass and Marble, of incomparable
Workmanship and Beauty. The Mausoleum of _Urban_ VIII. on the Right Hand,
has two admirable Statues of white Marble, representing two Virtues, of
such exquisite Beauty, that there was a Necessity of covering their
Nudities to prevent the like Scandal which a certain _Spaniard_ gave, in
whom a Statue of this sort kindled an unruly Passion. These two Tombs are
not the only ones which adorn this Church; for there are many others
altogether as superb; particularly, the Mausoleum of the Countess
_Matilda_, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_, to whom the Popes
granted Burial in St. _Peter_'s Church, where, except the Successors of
that Apostle, none can be interred. These two Princesses were of such high
Birth, and had done so much for the Church, that they well deserved to be
honoured with this Distinction; for the first defended the Church, at the
Head of her Army, against the Emperor _Henry_ IV. the other even abdicated
her Crown, and abandoned her Dominions, to embrace the _Roman_ Religion.
_Christina_'s Tomb is nobly designed, without being overcharged with
Ornament; and there is her Picture in a great Medal of Brass, which is
perfectly well executed.
Tho' every thing in St. _Peter_'s Church is worthy of the particular
Observation of a curious Traveller, I think nothing deserves it more than
the noble Pictures of Mosaic Work, wherewith the Altars are decorated,
than which there can be nothing more complete; for it surpasses any thing
that was ever done by the Ancients. 'Tis but a few Years that the Artists
have arrived to the Perfection we now discover in Works of this kind. One
of these Pictures, which is just finished, represents the Story of Sta.
_Petronilla_, St. _Peter_'s Sister, so excellently designed, and so nicely
coloured and polished, that nothing in the Art of Man can out-do it. One
would swear 'twas a Picture behind a Glass; yet it consists only of little
Glass Squares, exactly cemented together by a certain Gum that is
extremely astringent. 'Tis a Piece of Work of the more Value, because it
is Proof against the Injuries of Weather, and nothing can damage it. They
design to remove out of this Church all the Pictures painted in Oil, which
grow mouldy by Time and Moisture, and to put Pictures of Mosaic Work, in
their place. If this Project, which is in a good Forwardness, and carried
on apace, be ever finished, St. _Peter_'s Church will be possessed of a
Treasure the more precious because there will be none like it.
The subterraneous Parts of the Church are altogether as magnificent as the
Superstructure; for Marble and Pictures of the Mosaic kind are its
Ornaments. 'Tis worth while to take the Pains to go up to the Top of this
Church, which one ascends by a sloping Stair-case, without one Step, that
leads to the Dome; and by other Stairs, not so commodious, one rises to
the Globe, which, 'tis said, will hold, twenty Persons with Ease. Upon St.
_Peter_'s Day the Church is illuminated from the Foundation to the Cross,
by Lamps without Number, which make a very fine Appearance.
All the other Churches of ROME are beautiful Piles, and 'tis certain that
the least of 'em contains something that will entertain a curious
Spectator. Those of them indeed that are the most worthy of Attention,
are, St. _Paul_'s without ROME, St. _John_'s _de Lateran_, St. _Mary
Major_'s, the Churches of _Jesus_, St. _Ignatius_, St. _Philip de Neri_,
our Lady's of Victory, the Church of St. _Agnes_, and the Noviciate of the
_Jesuits_.
As to the Foundation of St. _Mary Major_'s Church, there is a Tradition,
that two Bridegrooms of Quality, both very rich and very devout, having
pray'd to the Holy Virgin, that she would please to reveal to them for
what good Purpose they should bestow their Wealth; the Mother of God
signified to them in a Dream, that she would have them build a Church at
the Place which they would find cover'd next Day with Snow; a Thing the
more extraordinary at that Time, because it was the Month of _August_.
But, to the End that this Revelation might be the more authentic, the Holy
Virgin imparted it the same Night to the Pope St. _Liberius_ I. who next
Day made a Procession round the City, accompanied by all the Clergy, and
by _John_ a Patrician, and a Senator of ROME, and found that Spot of
Ground where now stands the Church of St. _Mary Major_, covered with Snow.
The Building was begun that very Day, and at first the Church was called
the _Liberian_ Church, and also the Church of St. _Mary of the Manger_,
because the Manger in which our Saviour lay, was there deposited; and at
last it was called St. _Mary Major_, because it is the biggest of those
Churches in ROME that are dedicated to the Holy Virgin.
I have been so long upon Churches, that 'tis high Time to shift the Scene.
I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came,
referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of
ROME to another Opportunity.
The Conclave is ended, and we have at last got a Pope: After tedious and
warm Disputes, which had divided the sacred College for four Months, they
have elected Cardinal _Corsini_. The Cardinals could not determine whom to
chuse for Head of the Church, till about a Week ago. Cardinal _Imperiali_
was proposed at first, and he would certainly have been the Man, upon
account of his great Age and Merit, if the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, the
Minister of _Spain_, had not put the Negative upon him in the Name of
their Catholic Majesties; nevertheless, 'tis the Opinion of many People,
that the Cardinal had no such Order in his Pocket at that Time, tho' he
had it at the Election of Pope _Conti_; because out of personal Pique to
Cardinal _Imperiali_ he had represented him to his Master as an Enemy to
the House of _Bourbon_, and too much attached to the Emperor. Probably the
Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ thought, that because their Catholic Majesties did,
at his Solicitation, grant an Exclusion to Cardinal _Imperiali_ that Time,
it was to continue for ever; at least, his unreasonable Grudge against his
Eminence made him take that Handle. The Reason he bore him so much ill
Will was this; _Bentivoglio_ had a Brother, a Marquis, who, for certain
Outrages which he had caused to be committed by his Bravoes, was arrested
by Order of this very _Imperiali_, when he was Legate of the Holy See at
_Ferrara_. Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, who was a proud haughty Man, took this
as such an Affront to his Family, that he could never forget it; and as
the _Italians_ seldom lose an Opportunity of taking Revenge, he laid hold
on this: So that Cardinal _Imperiali_ came short of the _Tiara_, merely
for having done an Act of Justice.
Cardinal _Imperiali_ being thus set aside, _Corsini_ was proposed for
Pope; but his Eminence fearing he should be excluded by the _Germans_,
pretended an Unwillingness to accept of the Pontificate, and desired his
Brethren to cast their Eyes upon some other Person. _Davia_ was proposed,
and would undoubtedly have been in St. _Peter_'s Chair, if Cardinal _de
Bissi_, a _Frenchman_, had not excepted against him, on pretence that he
was a _Jansenist_. 'Tis true, that Cardinal _Davia_ was never a great
Friend of the _Jesuits_, and that M. _Bissi_ is a Man after their own
Hearts: The Society, indeed, is accused of having put the _French_
Cardinal upon it; but this is what I won't swear. Though, be it as it
will, I think, if the Society were convinced that _Davia_ was their Enemy,
they did very wisely to set him aside. During this, Cardinal _Corsini_,
who still kept the triple Crown in View, and had only declined it for fear
of being opposed by the Imperial Cardinals, wrote to the Great Duke, and
to the Grand Princess _Violante_, desiring the former to intercede for him
directly with the Emperor, and the latter with the _Bavarian_ Family; to
the end that Family might do him good Offices at _Vienna_. His Wishes were
accordingly answered; for the Great Duke earnestly desired the Emperor to
consent to the Election of _Corsini_, and he obtained for Answer, that his
Imperial Majesty would order his Cardinals not to oppose him. _Corsini_
having this favourable Answer, engaged his Friends to bring him again upon
the Stage. And the Cardinal Chamberlain _Albano_, the Head of the
Cardinals, made by _Clement_ XI. his Uncle, spoke for him to all of his
Party, who accordingly gave their Votes for him; but Cardinal _Barberini_
hearing that _Corsini_ was going to be proposed a second time, declared
openly against him; and said, he would never consent to his Election. The
Chamberlain was in no great Pain for this Opposition; for he was much more
apprehensive of the Imperialists, and particularly of the Cardinal
_Cienfuegos_, who was very earnest for the Election of _Colonna_, or some
other Subject of the Emperor. The Chamberlain therefore went at Midnight
to the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, and proposed the Choice of _Corsini_ to him;
and not finding him intirely for it, he threw himself at his Feet, and
conjured him for God's sake not to oppose the said Cardinal's Advancement.
'You see, said he, that we cannot agree in the Choice of a Pope. Will you
end your Days here? 'Tis now four Months that we have been shut up. What
have you to say against _Corsini_? He is old, and, according to the Course
of Nature, cannot live longer than the Time it will take us up to destroy
the Factions that are among us. If you have a Notion that he is not in
the Interests of the Emperor, you perceive that it can't be long in his
Power to hurt him. Moreover, if you consent to his Advancement, he will be
obliged to own his Obligation to the Emperor for the Pontificate, and
consequently cannot but make him an Acknowledgment.' The Cardinal
Chamberlain water'd his Discourse with a great many Tears, for the good
Man can weep when he will. This so moved _Cienfuegos_, who is the
best-natured Soul in the World, that he gave his Consent to the Election
of _Corsini_. But then the _French_ feigned they would not be for him any
longer, and pretended to take Umbrage at the _Germans_ espousing the Man
whom they had before opposed. They stood out abundance of Intreaty, but at
length they consented, saying, that since the _Germans_ made the Pope,
they would name the Minister; which was granted them. They nominated
Cardinal _Banchieri_, who had been Vice-Legat at _Avignon_, to be
Secretary of State. The Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who was puffed up with the
Thoughts of having made the Pope, did not so much as think of opposing the
_French_ in the Nomination of a Minister who was intirely devoted to them.
Many People of very good Sense are of Opinion that the _Germans_ were
bubbled in this Affair, and that the _French_ made both the Pope and the
Minister. Whether 'twas so or not, I cannot say; the Intrigues of the
Conclaves will never be rightly known, but in the Valley of _Jehosaphat_;
yet it seems to me, that since we have been the Masters of _Italy_, we are
even more hated there than the _French_ ever were, and 'tis certain that
they were hated there with a Vengeance. 'Tis very probable, therefore,
that the _Italian_ Cardinals had it not very much at Heart, to give us a
Pope that was in our Interest. Be this as it will, even to the very Day
of the new Pope's Exaltation, all the City of ROME thought the Cardinal
_Cienfuegos_ Master of the Conclave; which is so true, that among the
Satires current during the Vacancy of the Holy See, the Cardinal was
exhibited at a Window of the Conclave, taking Aim with a Fuzee at the Holy
Ghost, which was hovering about the Place, in form of a Dove.
Cardinal _Corsini_ was proclaimed Pope on _Wednesday_ the 12th of _July_,
in the Morning. He took the Name of _Clement_ XII. in Honour to the Memory
of _Clement_ XI. who made him a Cardinal. He is in the 78th Year of his
Age. All good People are pleased at his Advancement, and since the
_Romans_ could not get a _Roman_ for their Pope, they are not sorry that
he was preferred to his Competitors. He was generous and noble,
good-natured, mild, and affable, while a Cardinal, and we may expect that
he will not hide those Qualities now he is a Pope.
In the Afternoon of his Advancement to the Pontificate, _Clement_ XII.
received a Visit from the Pretender, and the Princess his Lady, who are
here styled the _King_ and _Queen_ of _England_. After he had conversed a
while with them, he went on Foot to the Chapel of Pope _Sixtus_, and
placed himself on a Seat before the Altar, where he received the Adoration
of the Cardinals, who came according to their Seniority, and kneeling
down, kissed his Foot, and his Right-hand. The Pope embraced them one
after the other, and gave them the _Pax_ to kiss. 'Tis only upon that Day
and the Coronation-day, that the Cardinals kiss the Pope's Foot; for
afterwards, they only kiss his Hand. When this first Ceremony was over,
the Pope was seated in his Chair of PROCESSION, which is a great
Arm-chair, adorned with red Velvet, richly embroidered with Gold; and
then eight Men took him upon their Shoulders, and carry'd him thro' the
great Stair-case to St. _Peter_'s Church. When they came before the Chapel
of the Holy Sacrament, the Pope was set down; and rising from his Chair,
he went and kneeled at a Desk prepared for the Purpose. After a short
Prayer, he returned to his Chair, and was carried towards the High Altar,
where he was seated in the Middle. There the Cardinals paid another
Adoration to him, like that which they made to him in _Sixtus_'s Chapel;
and then the Pope was carried into a Pew, near the Altar, where he put off
his Mitre and Cope, and being put into a Sedan, returned to his Apartment,
where he quickly after received the Compliments of the Ambassadors, the
_Roman_ Princes, and of all the Quality of ROME; and in the Evening, there
were Illuminations and Bonfires throughout the City, accompanied with a
Discharge of the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_.
The same Rejoicings were continued next Day, which the Pope spent in
giving Audiences, and naming his Ministers. Then it was, that at the
Recommendation of the _French_, he appointed the Cardinal _Banchieri_
Secretary of State. They say, that in the Evening, _Clement_ XII. had a
long Conversation with the Persons who had the greatest Share of his
Confidence when he was a Cardinal, and asked them, what they said at ROME
about his Exaltation. One of them intreated to be excused from telling
him, but the Pope injoining him to declare the whole Truth to him, the
Confident obeyed, and told the Pope that the _Romans_ seemed to approve of
the Choice which the Cardinals had made; but that they were apprehensive
they should have no better Treatment from the _Florentines_, than they
had from the _Beneventines_, under the last Pontificate. 'The _Romans_,'
said the Pope, 'are afraid then without a Cause; for I will have no
Respect of Persons, but will so govern, that if I don't win the Love of my
Subjects while I live, they shall, at least, be sorry when I die.' Then
turning about to his Nephew the Marquis _Neri Corsini_, now a Cardinal,
whom he had made a Prelate but the Day before; 'I exhort you, Nephew,
_said he_, to behave so as to offend nobody. My Reign cannot be long. My
Age and my Infirmities ought to put me upon thinking of the Grave, much
rather than of human Grandeur. Let you and I live then so, that our Name
may not be hated when I am no more seen; and let us, if possible, so carry
it to Mankind, that I may be lamented after Death, and that you may not
want Friends.' 'Twas with such Sentiments as these, that _Clement_ XII.
ascended the Throne of St. _Peter_.
The Ceremony of his Coronation was performed on the 16th of _July_, and I
can assure you, that, setting aside the Number of Cardinals and Bishops
who attended at it, there was nothing in it magnificent. The Pope, vested
in his _Pontificalibus_, and preceded by the Sacred College, went in
Procession to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where he made a very short Prayer, and
then was carried thro' the grand Stair-case under St. _Peter_'s Portico,
where he was seated on a Throne, and admitted St. _Peter_'s Chapter to
kiss his Foot. He was from thence carried into the Church, and put down at
the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, before which he made his Prayer
kneeling, as did also the Cardinals. After this Prayer, he was carried to
the Chapel of St. _Gregory_ the Great, where he made another short Prayer
prostrate before the Altar. Then he was placed in a Throne on the
Right-side of the Altar, and the Cardinals seated themselves upon Benches,
on both Sides of the Chapel. While the Musick was performing a _Tercet_,
they put on their white Copes, embroidered with Gold, and their Mitres of
white Damask, and the Archbishops and Bishops did the same. After this,
they went all, both Cardinals and Prelates, to perform Homage to the Pope,
with this Distinction, that the Cardinals kissed only the Hand of the Holy
Father, but the Prelates kissed his Hand and his Foot too. When this
Ceremony was ended, the Pope caused the Crucifix to be elevated, and gave
his first Blessing to the Standers-by, and the Populace, thereto annexing
a plenary Indulgence _in articulo mortis_. He afterwards descended from
his Throne, put himself again in his Chair of Procession, and was carried
before the High Altar. He was the only Person that had then the Mitre on
his Head; for the Cardinals and Prelates held theirs in their Hands. While
he was thus carried in Procession, a Master of the Ceremonies went before
him, burning Flax three times, calling out aloud at each time to him,
_Sancte Pater! sic transit Gloria Mundi_: i. e. _Holy Father! so passeth
away the Glory of the World_. This Exhortation to the Remembrance of the
Frailty of human Greatness seemed to me to touch the Pope's Heart; for he
lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, and the very Tears trickled down his Cheeks.
When he drew near the Altar, he fell on his Knees, and prayed with a great
deal of Devotion and Humility. He then received the Benediction of three
of the eldest Cardinal Priests, and the first Cardinal Deacon presented
him with the Pall; after which, he went up to the Altar, perfumed it with
Incense, and then caused himself to be seated in his Throne, which was
erected at the Bottom of the Church, facing the Altar. The Cardinals sat
upon high Benches, on both Sides the Throne, in two Ranks, leading to the
Altar. The Persons whom they here call the King and Queen of _England_,
with the Princes their Sons, and their whole Court, were in a Gallery on
the Right-hand of the Throne, and in another Gallery opposite to this,
were the principal Ladies of ROME, and the most distinguished Foreigners.
I was there in the Retinue of the Prince of _Waldeck_, who has been here
these two Months.
From that Gallery, we saw the Cardinals, the Archbishops, and the Bishops,
pay their Homage to the Pope; which was performed by kissing the Pope's
Hand and Foot. Then the Pope tuned High Mass, at which the Epistle and
Gospel were sung, both in _Greek_ and _Latin_, by a _Greek_ Bishop and a
Cardinal Deacon. The Pope, after he had performed the Consecration,
returned to his Throne, where a Cardinal assistant Priest carried the
consecrated Host to him, and the Chalice, of both of which the Pope took
one half kneeling and bare-headed. He sucked the Divine Blood, according
to a Custom, thro' a golden Tube; and when the Cardinal assistant Priest
had taken the half that remained, both of the consecrated Host, and the
Chalice, the Mass was ended. After the Office was over, the Pope, preceded
by the Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, was carried in grand Procession
to the Gallery which is over the great Gate of the Church, fronting the
great Square, where he was seated on a very high Throne, in order to be
seen by the People; and after two Cardinal Deacons had taken off his
Mitre, and put on his _Tiara_, kissing at the same Time both his Hand and
Face, the Pope rose up, and gave his solemn Benediction standing, to the
People that were crowded in St. _Peter_'s Square, and the Streets that
led to it: At the same Time the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_ were
fired, and the Light-horse Carabineers and Guards made a Discharge of
their small Arms. Then the Pope descended from the Throne, and being again
placed in his Chair, was carried in Procession to his Apartment, where he
dismissed the Cardinals, who, I believe, wanted Rest as well as the Holy
Father, after a Ceremony which had lasted five Hours. At Night the Houses
were all illuminated, and a fine Firework was play'd off at the Castle of
St. _Angelo_.
Here give me Leave to make a Remark upon an Author, in whose Favour I have
seen you prepossessed, namely, Mr. _Misson_, who, in his Account of the
Pope's Coronation, the Ceremony of which, he says, he copied out of the
Ceremonial of ROME, describes this Act as the most magnificent and superb
that can possibly be seen; for, according to him, the Pope's Throne is
covered with precious Stones, tho' I assure you, that there cannot be a
greater Mistake; for if, as I said once before, we except the many
Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, whose Presence renders the Ceremony
august, nothing is more plain and simple. St. _Peter_'s Church, indeed, is
hung upon that Day with red Damask, laced with gold Tinsel, but 'tis the
very same upon every grand Festival; nor is St. _Peter_'s Throne, upon
this Occasion, richer than ordinary; and I can't imagine where _Misson_
could see those Canopies covered with precious Stones. That Author really
affected to impose on his Readers, and this is not the only Place where he
has deviated from the Truth.
The first Pope, who caused himself to be crown'd, was _Damasus_ II. in the
Year 1048. And _Urban_ V. was the first that used the triple Crown,
commonly called the _Tiara_; and this he did, to shew that the Vicar of
_Jesus Christ_ has Pontifical, Imperial, and Regal Power; and for the same
Reason, St. _Peter_ was anciently described (as is still to be seen in the
Palace of the _Vatican_) holding three Keys in his Right-hand.
Not many Days after the Coronation, the Pope quitted the _Vatican_, and
took up his Residence in the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. The Holy Father
marched out with a Pomp which pleased the _Romans_, who are naturally fond
of Pageantry; and they were the more delighted with this, because they had
seen nothing like it during the Pontificate of the deceased Pope. He rode
in a very splendid Coach, preceded by the _Roman_ Nobility on Horseback,
his Guards, and all his Houshold, which formed a numerous Train. The
Streets were full of People, who nevertheless discovered no Signs of Joy,
as is usual when the Popes go abroad; for the _Romans_, when they saw
_Clement_ XII. remember'd that he was a _Florentine_; and there needed
nothing more to put them out of Conceit with him. I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
LETTER XXIX.
_SIR_, _Rome, Sept. 10, 1730._
In this Letter I shall run through the Palaces of ROME, as briefly as I
traversed the Churches in my former. I shall take Care to mention no
Houses to you, but such as deserve the Name of Palaces; for you must know,
that the Buildings which we _Ultramontains_ think much to call Hotels, are
here styled Palaces.
I think, that the Pope's two Palaces called the _Vatican_ and
_Monte-Cavallo_ deserve to be mentioned before all the others: The first,
for its Extent and Magnificence; the second, because the Popes give it a
Preference to the other, from an Opinion here, that it stands in the most
healthful Air in the City.
The _Vatican_ is a Building extremely irregular, very great and very high,
and so close to St. _Peter_'s Church, that it takes off a great deal of
its Beauty. As to the Outside of it, I don't see any thing to be admired
in this Building, except the Quantity of Brick and Stone that has been
employed in it; but as to the Inside, 'tis quite otherwise; for one cannot
help being astonished at the Grandeur of the Apartments, and the Beauty of
the Pictures every-where, in which the best Painters of _Italy_ seem to
have strove to display the utmost of their Art: _Raphael_ especially has
done Wonders here: His Master-piece is a Picture representing the History
of _Attila_, a Piece which one cannot behold without being charmed.
_Sixtus_'s Chapel is of singular Beauty, on Account of its wonderful
Paintings, and especially for that great Picture of the Day of Judgment,
by _Michael Angelo Buonorato_, who, 'tis said, represented all the Persons
of his Acquaintance so much to the Life, that 'twas impossible to mistake
them; and that he placed his Friends among the Elect, and those that he
did not love, among the Damned; whereupon a Prelate, who was a Domestick
of Pope _Sixtus_ IV. then in St. _Peter_'s Chair, finding himself among
the damned, complained of it to the Pope, and desired him to deliver him
out of such bad Company; but the Holy Father told him, that his Power
extended no farther than Purgatory; that he could deliver Souls from
thence, but not from Hell; and that therefore, since 'twas his Misfortune
to be in such Company, there he must stay.
The _Vatican_ Library is, without Dispute, the finest and the greatest in
the World. 'Tis full of MSS. in the _Hebrew_, _Arabic_, _Greek_, _Latin_,
and other Languages. Pope _Sixtus_ V. spared no Cost to enrich it with the
best Books; and since his Death, it has been very much augmented by the
_Heidelberg_ Library, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_. The
former was brought hither, as I think I told you, after the Defeat of
_Frederic_ the Elector _Palatine_, King of _Bohemia_, when _Heidelberg_
submitted to the Power of the House of _Austria_. The latter was purchased
by the Pope from that Queen's Heirs. The Building which contains this
Library is worthy of the great _Sixtus_ V. who caused it to be built from
the very Foundation. 'Tis generally divided into two Parts, _viz._ the
Public, and the Private. The first is three hundred Feet long, and sixty
broad. The second consists of two great Rooms, into which the Admittance
is not so easy as into the Gallery, because of the very scarce MSS. that
are there contained. _Sixtus_ V. caused the whole Library to be painted,
both Inside and Outside, in which he employed the most ingenious Artists
of his Time. The Outside represents, in different Figures, the Arts, the
Sciences, and the Virtues. In the Inside, there are painted in divers
Compartments, the most memorable Actions of _Sixtus_ V. the holding of
sixteen Councils; the most celebrated Libraries; and the Men, in short,
ever since _Adam_, who have been most distinguished in the World for their
Learning. In the private Library are painted the principal Actions of Pope
_Sixtus_ V. and the Doctors of the Church.
The last Pope _Benedict_ XIII. was of a different Opinion from the Popes
his Predecessors, with regard to the Palace of the _Vatican_. He thought
it too fine for his Residence, as he did also the Palace of _Belvidero_,
which is properly a House of Pleasure, tho' it joins to the _Vatican_. And
as 'twas his Maxim, that a General ought to die in the Army; and a Bishop,
if not at the Altar, at least near his Church; he was not willing to quit
the Neighbourhood of St. _Peter_; and therefore, on the Backside of the
Gardens of the Pontifical Palace, he caused a little House to be built,
with some few Rooms in it that looked into the Country; where all his
Furniture was a few matted Chairs, all his Ornaments the Images of certain
Saints, and all his Companions a Brother of his own Order, with whom he
used to take the Air, and say his Breviary; and he could go out of this
Apartment whenever he pleased, without being seen.
I fansy, Sir, you will not be sorry if I should make a Digression here,
touching the Person of this Pope, who was perhaps the most humble, and the
most regular in his Morals, that ever filled the Papal Chair since St.
_Peter_. Being born at _Rome_, of the illustrious Family of the _Ursini_,
he entered very young into the Order of St. _Dominic_, and was made a
Cardinal at twenty-three Years of Age, by Pope _Clement_ X. of the
_Altieri_ Family. He commonly resided, after he was a Cardinal, at
_Benevento_, of which he was Archbishop. 'Twas there that he heard of the
Death of his Predecessor _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_. When
he received the News, he had just given away all his Money to the Poor, so
that he was fain to borrow of _Fini_, whom he afterwards made a Cardinal,
the Sum of eight hundred Crowns, to enable him to repair to the Conclave
at ROME. The Division of the Sacred College, who could not agree in the
Choice of a Pontiff, was the Cause of his Advancement. The Cardinals aimed
at placing the _Tiara_ upon the Head of a Man who might wear it just long
enough, either to dissipate, or to form their Cabals, and no longer. They
were all convinced, that by chusing the Cardinal _Ursini_, they should
give a holy Pope to the Church, but an indifferent Prince to the State;
however, they thought to remedy this Deficiency, by planting such
Ministers about the Pope, as they did not doubt would make him do what
they pleased. But they were egregiously mistaken; for the Cardinal
_Ursini_, when he was advanced to the Pontificate, was resolved to be
_Pope_; and he chose his own Ministers, without consulting the Sacred
College. One _Coscia_, a _Neapolitan_ Clergyman, born of mean Parents, had
for a long Time a great Ascendant over him. The Pope advanced him to the
Purple, preferred him to the highest Offices both in the Church and the
State, and made him Archbishop of _Benevento_.
This new Creature bore greater Sway than ever any Cardinal Nephew had
done, when Nepotism was in its Meridian. He was guilty of a thousand
Oppressions. Nothing was to be seen, but Rapine and Injustice; and he
converted all Things, even the most sacred, into Money. Every body
groan'd; but it was to no Purpose to complain, for the Pope was so
byassed in his Favour, that he turned a deaf Ear to all his Accusers. Even
the Cardinals, sensible of the public Misery, vigorously represented to
the Pope the Grievances that happened under his Administration; but he
would not hear them, and imputed their Remonstrances to Envy. _Coscia_
confirmed him every Day too in this Sentiment. _They will accuse me of
every thing that is ill_, said he to the Holy Father, _but God is my
Witness, that I discharge my Duty; and they hate, and strive to blacken
me, for no other Reason, but because perhaps I am in this respect too
strict._ I have been very well assured, that the Cardinal, when he made
his Defence to the Pope, often shed Tears, which wrought so much on his
Good-nature, that he wept too.
I know not whether I dare vouch the Truth of the following Story, which
however is firmly believed by all the People of ROME. Certain Cardinals
represented to the Pope one Day, that _Coscia_ was not only guilty of
innumerable Extortions, but that he led the most irregular Life in the
World, and diverted himself every Day with Prostitutes. The Pope said, he
would inquire into the Matter, and punish _Coscia_, if what they alledged
was true. Accordingly he taxed him with it the very same Day, but _Coscia_
easily brought himself off. He said, 'twas all Calumny; swore with Tears
in his Eyes, that he was innocent; and desired the Pope to hear him in
Confession. The Pope agreed to it; he said what he pleased, and his
Holiness almost took him for a Saint. But _Coscia_, fearing lest the Pope
should at length open his Eyes, thought to blind him the more by writing
an anonymous Letter, which he caused to be delivered to him by a trusty
_Valet de Chambre_, importing in Substance as follows: 'Your Holiness
being so prepossessed in Favour of Cardinal _Coscia_, that you will give
Credit to nothing that is told you of his Debaucheries, 'tis thought
proper to acquaint you, that this very Night, at Nine o'Clock, the
Cardinal will have some Mistresses in his Chamber. Your Holiness may be an
Eye-witness of the Intrigue, if you will but take the Trouble to repair to
the Cardinal's Apartment, and peep thro' the Key-hole.' The Pope did not
fail to go at the Time mentioned; but instead of seeing what he expected,
the Cardinal, who imagined he would come, took care to be on his Knees at
Prayer, with his Beads in one Hand, and a Crucifix in the other, which he
kissed with a great Air of Contrition. The Pope, beholding the crafty
Cardinal in this Posture, cry'd out to somebody that was with him, _Do but
see that holy Man, who has been represented to me in such a wicked Light!
Would to God that all the Clergy were like him._ Then entring into the
Cardinal's Chamber, _Dear Coscia_, said he, embracing him, _They have
accused you to me as the greatest of Sinners, and I was so weak as to
think you guilty; I ask your Pardon, and I pray God to forgive me the
Injury I have done you._ He afterwards joined with _Coscia_ in reading the
Litanies of the Holy Virgin; and he wanted no other Proof of his being a
Saint. Thus was the honest Pope made the Dupe of the greatest of
Hypocrites. But, to the Pope's Sorrow, this was not all; Cardinal _Coscia_
was not the only Man who abused his Credulity; for all that served him
being _Beneventines_, and as cunning as _Coscia_, whose Creatures they
were, they tried who should bubble the Pope most; which made Cardinal
_Buoncompagno_ say, _That the Pope was like the Holy Sepulchre, in the
Hands of the_ Turks.
This good Pope never knew what Money was, nor the Value of it; but gave
away all that he had, and especially to the Poor, for whose Relief he sold
all the Presents he received. He could never understand how a Piece of
Gold could be sometimes worth less than a Piece of Silver; and I have been
told, that one Day, as he was selling some Presents he had received from
the Emperor of _China_, to his unworthy _Beneventines_, one of them
offered thirty Crowns for a thing that was perhaps worth five hundred.
Another came and offered a gold Crown-piece. The Pope, surprized at the
golden Proffer, said to him that had offered the thirty Crowns, 'I am
sorry I can't let you have the Thing; you offered me only Silver, but
here's one offers me Gold; what I sell, is for the Poor, and I will not
wrong them.' Accordingly, he that held out the gold Coin had the
Preference; and thus did those Knaves juggle together to trick the Pope.
They had one common Purse, and what they bought of the Holy Father at
their own Price, they sold afterwards in ROME, and shared the Profit.
At the Beginning of his Pontificate, the Governor of ROME having
complained to him that _Pharao_ and _Basset_ proved the Ruin of a great
many People, he answered him smartly, _Alas! are not you the Governor?
Send the Gamesters to the Gallies._ He never loved to talk of State
Affairs, and would never read the Relations given by Nuncios, who, he
said, were only Newsmongers and Spies, with whom he did not care to have
any Concern; nor would he ever advance them to the Purple, but always put
them back, tho' perhaps the Term of their Nunciature had been long
expired.
This holy Pope, for I really believe him a Saint, lived in the very midst
of ROME, and of his Court, like a Hermit, always at Prayer, or employed in
the Functions of the Priesthood. He was an Enemy to Luxury and Pageantry,
would never suffer a Clergyman to kneel at his Feet, but always made him
rise, and sit down by him; being as humble as 'twas possible for any mean
Priest, and perhaps too humble for his Character. He went out every Day
in a sorry Coach, with only a Pair of Horses, without Guards, without any
Companion, as I said before, besides a Brother of his Order, _viz._ the
_Dominican_, to the Rules of which he always adher'd, and without any
Attendants but a Couple of Footmen, and six of his _Swiss_ Guards. If he
happened to meet with any Carriage in a narrow Street, he bade his
Coachman stop, saying, he did not desire to fall out with any body. So
much is enough for _Benedict_ XIII. who was a pious Pope, and would have
been a good Prince too, if his Ministers had been Men of Honour. I now
return to the _Vatican_.
This Palace joins to the Castle of St. _Angelo_, which is the Citadel of
ROME, by a covered Gallery, which was made at a Time when the turbulent
_Romans_, not paying their due Obedience to the Popes, the latter thought
proper to make themselves a Passage to it in case of a Revolution; but,
Thanks to God, this Precaution is no longer necessary; for the Popes are
the Masters. The Castle of St. _Angelo_ is for Prisoners of State, and in
it is the Arsenal, which, by the way, is in a very bad State. There are
also kept the four Millions of _Roman_ Crowns, which Pope _Sixtus_ V.
deposited there, with an Injunction, by a Bull, at the same Time, that
they should not be touched but to serve some pressing Exigency of the
Church. It has the Name from the Appearance of an Angel to Pope St.
_Gregory the Great_, putting up a Sword all over bloody, in its Scabbard,
to denote that God had stay'd the Pestilence, in regard to the Prayers of
St. _Gregory_, who, accompanied by all the Clergy and People of ROME,
carried in Procession to St. _Peter_'s Church two Images of the Virgin,
the one painted by St. _Luke_, and kept in the Church of St. _Mary Major_,
the other, which appeared to St. _Galle_, and is worshipped in the Church
of St. _Mary in Compitello_.
From the Castle of St. _Angelo_ you will please to follow me to the Palace
of _Monte Cavallo_, which is travelling from one End of ROME to the other.
_Gregory_ XIII. began this Palace, and several of the succeeding Popes
have carried it on. 'Tis much more spacious than magnificent, and yet none
of the Apartments are good for much, except that of the Pope, who indeed
is well lodged. _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family, who, next to _Sixtus_
V. was the Pope that has most embellished ROME, has also most of all
contributed to the Embellishment of the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. Here
are excellent rich Cielings, made in the Time of his Pontificate. This
vast Building forms a long Square, with a great Court in the Middle,
encompassed with Piazzas, five hundred Paces in Length. The two cross
Buildings, of which that at the farther End forms the main Body of the
Building, are higher than those on the Sides. In the Front of the main
Building there's a mosaic Picture of the Holy Virgin, with the Infant
_Jesus_ in her Arms, as designed by _Charles Maratti_, which is an
admirable Piece. There are also fine Paintings in the Apartments, but they
are not near so magnificent as those of the _Vatican_. The Furniture of
this Palace, and indeed, of all the Pontifical Palaces, is far from being
rich. The Hangings are of crimson Damask, with Lace and Fringe of gold
Tinsel. The Seats are Benches of Wood, painted with the Arms of the
reigning Pope, and varnished; and the Cardinals themselves have no other
in the Apostolical Palace. From the Pope's Apartments there's one of the
most agreeable Prospects that can be over almost all ROME, and very far
into the Country. The Air of _Monte Cavallo_ is said to be the best in
_Rome_, and indeed no other Reason could induce the Popes to reside here
rather than at the _Vatican_. The Gardens belonging to it are very much
admir'd by the _Italians_, who never travell'd out of their Country, where
Gardening is not in very great Perfection; but as for us _Ultramontains_,
who know a little of what belongs to Gardens, we look upon those of this
Country with very great Indifference.
The Capitol is a considerable Building, with Curiosities worthy a
Traveller's Attention. It was built in the Pontificate of _Gregory_ XIII.
The Ascent to it is by a Stair-case of several Flights, adorn'd on both
Sides with Balustrades of Free-stone, at the Bottom of which two Lions are
plac'd, of a kind of black Stone like Jet, which form two Fountains. At
the Top of the Stair-case, there are two great Horses representing
_Castor_ and _Pollux_, when they came Express to ROME with the News of the
Victory gain'd over the _Tarquins_. In the Midst of the Area, which is
form'd by three separate Piles of Building, two whereof are as advanc'd
Wings to the main Building that fronts the Ascent, there's an _Equestrian_
Statue in Brass, of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius Antoninus_, which is the
most beautiful, and completest Piece that was perhaps ever made of the
Kind. They say here, that the Republic of _Venice_ offer'd some Years ago
to pay as many _Sequins_ for this Statue as cou'd be put into the Horse's
Belly. If this be true, that Republic was undoubtedly more wealthy than it
is at present. 'Tis certain, that the Capitol contains a considerable
Treasure in ancient and modern Statues, in Basso Relievos, and in all
Sorts of Fragments of Antiquity. The Structures are according to the
Direction of _Michael Angelo_.
In the middlemost Pile of Buildings, which is much higher than the two
others, the Senate of ROME meets, and there Justice is administer'd.
There are two Flights or Steps up to the Gate which opens into the Hall of
the Tribunal where they plead. Between the two Flights, there's a stately
Fountain adorn'd with two antique Statues of Marble, lying on Pedestals,
representing the _Nile_ and the _Tiber_; and in a Niche over it, is the
Statue of _Roma triumphans_, a Work of Porphyry, an antique Marble of
excellent Sculpture.
The Inside of these three Piles of Building contains fine Paintings,
particularly the Rape of the _Sabines_; and among the modern Statues, the
Connoisseurs esteem the brazen Statue of Pope _Urban_ VIII. done by
_Bernini_; the Colossal Statue of Pope _Leo_ X. in Marble, done by
_Lorenzetto_ of _Florence_; those of _Alexander Farnese_, _Marcus
Antoninus_, _Colonna_, _Gregory_ XIII., _Paul_ III. and many others, in
short, which I don't mention, as being of less Value, and which are not
much minded here, because they are not done by the best Hands, but wou'd
pass with us for Master-pieces.
Being in the Neighbourhood of that great Square call'd _Campo-vaccino_, I
cannot help giving you some Account of it; not that I pretend to
particularize it, because I have not sufficient Learning. Here we see the
admirable Ruins of the Magnificence of old ROME, which I cannot behold
without pitying the Condition they are in at present. You wou'd have the
same Concern as I have, were you in the Middle of a large Square, and to
see nothing all round it but Ruins; to see on one Side the Walls of the
ancient Capitol, on the other the _Constantine_ Arch erected with so much
Expence by the Senate and People of ROME, broken and half-bury'd; beyond
that, the Arch of _Titus_, in a Condition still worse; on your Left, the
immense Ruins of the Temple of _Peace_; the Vestigies of the Temple of
_Antoninus_ and _Faustina_, on the Architrave of which is this vain
Inscription, _Divo Antonino, Divæ Faustinæ_; on your Right-hand the
melancholy Ruins of the Temple of _Concord_, which, to judge of it by the
eight Pillars that are still remaining, must have been very superb; it was
built to fulfil a Vow made by the Dictator _Furius Camillus_ for having
reconcil'd the _Plebeians_ and the _Patricians_. 'Twas in this Temple,
according to _Varro_, that the Senate assembled to treat of the Affairs of
the Republic. In short, here are so many other unfortunate Remnants of the
Mistress of the Universe, as wou'd put you in mind of the Instability of
this World, and that all is Vanity. But what wou'd you say, if you shou'd
go on till you come to the famous _Coliseum_, which Time, the Destroyer of
all Things, had spar'd, but was destroy'd by Men, and such too as were
most concern'd in the Preservation of every thing in ROME that was
beautiful? And what wou'd you think, if you saw there was scarce enough
remaining of this stately Edifice to give you an Idea of what it was once?
'Twas _Vespasian_ that caus'd it to be built after the Model which was
intended by _Augustus_. Its Form on the Outside is round, and 'tis built
of a prodigious Height, intirely of great Free-Stones. The Court or Arena
is oval. There were three distinct Rows of Seats in the Amphitheatre, the
highest for the Senators, the second for the Knights, and the third for
the common People. They say it contain'd eighty-five thousand Spectators.
It was dedicated by _Titus_, who upon that Occasion celebrated a great
Feast, distributed large Sums to the common People, and enter'd five
thousand wild Beasts of all Sorts into it in one Day. _Paul_ III. and
_Urban_ VIII. caus'd the _Coliseum_ to be demolish'd, and made use of the
Stones for building the Palaces which are now inhabited by their Families.
Having entertain'd you sufficiently with the public Structures, let us now
take a View of some of the private Palaces; but before I introduce you
into them, I will give you my Thoughts of the Palaces of ROME in general.
I don't deny that there are finer and greater Palaces here than elsewhere;
but of these there are few; and as for the others, they are not worth so
much Notice as is taken of 'em. Methinks, 'tis with the Buildings of ROME,
as with those People, whose Reputation being once well establish'd, we are
apt to applaud in them, what in others perhaps we shou'd censure. A great
many Palaces are admir'd here, barely from the Prepossession that
Architecture flourishes here more than any-where else. Indeed, this was
true enough heretofore, in the Time of a _Sixtus_ V. a _Paul_ V. and an
_Urban_ VIII. who had the Embellishment of ROME at Heart; but 'tis not so
now, since the indolent Popes have nothing more of that Work upon their
Hands. I can assure you, that they actually build now much better in
_France_ than they do in _Italy_, especially as to the Distribution of the
Apartments, of which the _Italians_ have no Notion. Most of the Apartments
of ROME consist of a long Suite of Rooms, often very small ones, which
have no Way out of them but the Door you enter at; and commonly the Rooms
have no Light, nor Chimney, nor Place to set up a Bed, or Canopy; which is
the Reason that those two Pieces of Houshold Stuff are seldom fix'd where
they shou'd be; mean time, Canopies are what the _Roman_ Princes and
Cardinals are very fond of, and many of them have no less than five or
six; vain Ostentation, which makes those Gentlemen fancy they are giving
Audience, when they are only receiving Visits! After all, one must not
look for such Ornaments here as they have in _France_, and elsewhere. As
to their Floors, they are only made of Bricks; they know nothing of
Wainscotting; their Glazing is horrible; and most of their Ceilings, tho'
there are some very magnificent, are of Timber, so coarsly work'd, that
the Gilding employ'd on them serves only the more to expose their
Deformity. The Furniture is almost everywhere the same; consisting either
of red Damask, with an upper Border of Velvet, of the same Colour, adorn'd
with Tinsel Lace and Fringe resembling Gold, or else of Pictures, which
are, indeed, the most perfect of the Kind; but when I see five or six
Rooms all together in a Row, full of Paintings, I fancy myself in some
Picture-shop at the Fair of _St. Germain_. Besides, these Pictures are in
such sorry old-fashion'd Frames, that they disparage them. They have but
few Looking-glasses, and those very small. As for Porcellane and crystal
Vessels, they are not much in Vogue; but, on the other hand, here are
beautiful Statues which I admire, and think very fine; but I shou'd be
better pleas'd to see them in a Gallery, in a Salon, or in a Garden: For I
don't think they look well in a Chamber. All the Furniture one sees here
is antique, having been laid in, for most part, by Popes that have been a
long while in their Graves; and there's no House furnish'd in the modern
Taste, except those of the Cardinals _del Giudici_, _Albano_, _Bolognetti_
and _Carolis_.
'Tis time now to enter into some of the Palaces. That which they call here
the _Farnese_ Palace, is, in my Opinion, the most magnificent in ROME;
_Michael Angelo_ was the Architect. Most of the Stones of this Building
were taken out of the _Coliseum_ of the Emperor _Vespasian_, by Order of
_Paul_ III. who made no Scruple to destroy the proudest Monument of
Antiquity for the sake of furnishing his Nephews with a Palace. This
Palace is two Stories high, and has a perfect Square before it, adorn'd
with two stately Fountains, the Water of which continually spouts up
fifteen Feet high, and then falls by two Sheets into a Shell or Cistern of
oriental Granate, of a vast Bigness, and all of a Piece. The Entrance to
this Palace is through a great Court, adorn'd within by _Doric_ Pillars;
and this leads to a square Court, the Buildings of which are supported by
Arches, with great Galleries well cover'd over, where we see the famous
Statues of _Hercules_ and _Flora_, which are really worthy the Observation
of the Curious. In a second Court, which is pretty much neglected, there
is to be seen, in a wooden Case, the magnificent Groupe of white Marble,
all of one Piece, representing the Fable of _Dirce_, fasten'd to a Bull,
by _Zethus_ and _Amphion_, the Sons of _Antiope_, Wife of _Lycus_ King of
_Boeotia_, who, to take Revenge for their Mother, whom _Lycus_ had
divorc'd, because she had suffer'd herself to be debauch'd by _Jupiter_ in
the Form of a Satyr, were so barbarous as to murder _Lycus_, and to tie
_Dirce_ by the Hair of her Head to the Horns of a wild Bull, by which she
was dragg'd about, till the Gods, pitying the State of this Princess,
turn'd her into a Fountain. This great Machine was brought from _Rhodes_
to ROME by Order of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_, and was found under
Ground in the very Place where were formerly the Baths of that Emperor,
from whence _Paul_ III. had it brought to the Palace of his Family, that
it might serve as a Vista to the grand Gate; but it has not yet been
plac'd there.
The great Stair-case which leads to the Apartments is adorn'd with several
fine Statues. We enter first into a great Hall, where we have the History
of _Alexander Farnese_, when he pass'd the _Scheld_, who is represented as
crown'd by Victory, with _Flanders_ and the _Scheld_ chain'd to his Feet.
There is also a Number of other fine antique Statues in several Niches,
and upon several Pedestals. The first Chamber is painted in _Fresco_ by
_Salviati_ and _Zucaro_. There we see the Emperor _Charles_ V. and
_Francis_ I. King of _France_, shaking each other by the Hand; the
memorable Transactions of _Paul_ III. and _Martin Luther_ in Conference
with that Pope's _Nuncio_. In the next Apartments there are a great many
fine Bustos and Ceilings, well painted and richly gilt. But the finest
Piece of all in this Palace is the Gallery, which was painted throughout
by _Annibal Carache_, whose skilful Hand has therein represented with very
great Art the several Deities assisting at the Triumph of _Bacchus_. In
fine, no Cost has been spared in this Palace. I have been assured, that
the Furniture of it was very magnificent formerly; but it is since all
taken away, and the Palace serves to lodge the Minister of _Parma_. 'Tis
pity that 'tis not finish'd, for in Truth it wou'd be a fine Piece of
Building; but the Case is the very same with all St. _Peter_'s _Miracles_,
which is the Name they give to all the Palaces built by the Popes for
their Families. The Popes are old Men when they come to the Pontificate,
and Modesty, or Decency, hinders them from doing any thing for their
Families, the first Year or two; so that they begin in the Decline of
their Years, to undertake vast Designs, which they don't live to finish;
and 'tis seldom that their Nephews pursue what was begun by their Uncles,
either because they don't care to make a Shew of the Wealth that was left
them, or else because they have not Souls great enough for the
Undertaking; for, to be plain, those Nephews of the Popes are seldom good
for much, and have had a poor Education. The Generality are Persons of a
mean or base Extraction, who become Princes without any Merit but the
Fortune of their Uncles, and are so intoxicated with their Grandeur, that
they are swallow'd up in Sloth, and think of nothing, not even of the
Preservation of their growing Families; so that they quickly fall to
decay, and as soon as their Spring is over, they are snatch'd off on
sudden by Winter.
_Paul_ III. had a Project for building a Bridge over the _Tyber_, behind
the _Farnese_ Palace, in order to give it a Communication with the Garden
of the little _Farnese_ Palace, which is on the other Side of the River,
in the Quarter call'd _Longara_; and if this Design had been executed, the
Duke of _Parma_ wou'd have had a much finer Palace at ROME, than he has in
his own Capital.
The _Barberini_ Palace is in no respect inferior to the _Farnese_, and is
larger, and, without doubt, richer in Pictures, Statues and Tapestry. The
Stair-case is very much taken Notice of, which runs up winding, and forms
a great oval Well in the Middle, from the Bottom to the Cupola. The great
Hall, which is a stately Room, is painted in _Fresco_ by _Peter Cortona_,
who has artfully represented the four Cardinal Virtues, and the Triumph of
Glory, with their proper Figures and Ornaments, all to great Perfection.
The Apartments to which this Hall leads, are very spacious, and really
contain a vast Treasure in Pictures and Statues, of which were I to give
you all the Particulars, I shou'd never have done. That which very much
disfigures this Palace is the Entrance to it, a Defect which however might
easily be remedied, were they only to pull down two or three Outhouses
which belong to it.
The Palace _Pamphili_ in the Street _del Corso_ will be, as to the
Outside, the most magnificent in ROME, when the grand Front, which is now
actually carrying up, is finish'd. The Prince _Pamphili_ who is the Owner
of it, is very well able to go through with it; for he is one of the
richest Noblemen in ready Money in ROME. His Brother the Cardinal, who
died a little while ago, left him four hundred thousand _Roman_ Crowns in
Specie. The Prince is a very good [OE]conomist, has no Children, and being
not like to have any, because of the Variance betwixt him and his Wife,
his Nephew the Duke _Carpidetti_, who is the last of the _Pamphili_
Family, will be his Heir. The Prince and his Lady have been often parted;
and though they have been as often reconcil'd, either by their Kindred, or
by the Popes, they are continually at Variance; nevertheless, I have been
assured by People who know them perfectly well, that when they are
asunder, they are very loving, and write to one another the most tender
Letters; but that as soon as they come together, they hate one another as
bad.
'Tis not long ago that the _Campagna di Roma_ was infested by Locusts
(which are here call'd _Grilli_) to such a Degree, that Pope _Benedict_
XIII. curs'd them, and banish'd them to the Sea, in which it is pretended
they were all drown'd. This Miracle being talk'd of some Days after in
Presence of the Prince _Pamphili_, he made Answer, that he did not believe
it; for, said he, were it so, I shou'd be the most unhappy of Men! But,
'How is it possible for all the _Grilli_ to be plung'd headlong into the
Sea, and the _Campagna di Roma_ to be deliver'd from them, and that I
shou'd still keep the _Grillo_ in my House?' He alluded hereby to his
Wife, who is of the _Grillo_ Family in _Genoa_.
If the Duke _Carpinetti_ shou'd die without Issue, as 'tis believ'd will
be the Case, from his having been married these four Years past to a Lady
who never yet conceiv'd, the immense Estate of the _Pamphili_ Family goes
to the Family of the Constable _Colonna_, and really it will then be in
better Hands. You know that the _Colonna_'s are the gayest People in ROME,
and the most illustrious next to the Princes of Sovereign Families, to
many of whom they are related. They have the Honour to be of the same
Stock as the Royal Family of _Prussia_. Since the _Ursini_ Family is
extinct, there's not one in ROME can equal the _Colonna_'s. The Head of
this Family is hereditary Constable; he is Prince _del Soglio_, (of the
Throne) and as such, in all public Ceremonies, he sits at the Right-hand
of the Pope's Throne, which is a Place that he yields to none but the
Nephews of the reigning Pope. He is moreover Knight of the Golden Fleece,
and the present Emperor declar'd him his perpetual Ambassador for
presenting the Hackney, which is a Mark of the Tribute that the Kingdom of
_Naples_ owes to the Holy See[3]. The _Colonna_'s are well-bred, affable
and generous, and always liv'd with a Dignity suitable to their Birth. The
present Cardinal, and the Constable his Nephew, are perhaps two of the
finest Gentlemen in the World. They both dwell in the same Palace, and
live in a Concord and Union, which is the more beautiful, because 'tis
what is seldom known among the Great. Their Palace is one of the most
magnificent in ROME, as to the Inside of it; and 'tis pity but that it had
another Front. It owes its Rise to none but its Owners, without being
oblig'd for it to any of St. _Peter_'s Successors. Instead of giving you
the Particulars of every Room, I need only tell you, that they are all
richly furnish'd. It has Cabinets, Pictures and Statues, that are of an
extraordinary Beauty. The Gallery is truly Royal, and has Beauties that
are not to be found in that of _Versailles_, which is admir'd by all
_Europe_: Such are four Pillars of antique yellow Marble, two of which
support an Arch at each End, whereby there's an Entrance to the Salon,
which is at the End of the Gallery. This might be said to be a complete
Gallery, if one of the Salons at the End of it was not raised five or six
Steps, whereas the other is level with the Apartment and the Gallery. The
Roof of this fine Piece of Building is painted, and represents the Victory
gain'd in the Time of _Pius_ V. over the _Turks_ at _Lepanto_, by the
Valour of _Mark Antony Colonna_. These Paintings are by different Hands,
and not all of the same Beauty. As to the Pictures and Statues that adorn
the Walls which are fac'd with Marble, 'tis impossible to see any thing
more complete; and this is a Truth even confessed by _Frenchmen_. I never
saw a finer Show than this Gallery makes, when illuminated on the Eve and
Festival of St. _Peter_, which is the Time of the Constable's presenting
the Hackney to the Pope.
This Ceremony was perform'd not many Days ago; but as it cou'd not be on
St. _Peter_'s Festival, by reason of the Vacancy of St. _Peter_'s See, it
was done at the Church of Our Lady _del Popoli_, on the Day of the
Festival of that Church. The Pope went thither with a great Train, the
Cardinals _Olivieri_ and _Banchieri_, the one Secretary of the Briefs,
and the other Secretary of State, sitting over-against him in his Coach.
When he came to the Gate of the Church, he was put into his Procession
Chair, and carried towards the Altar, where he ton'd the Vespers, which
were continu'd by the Music. During this, Don _Philip Corsini_, the Pope's
grand Nephew, and all the Nobility that accompany'd the Holy Father, set
out on Horseback from the Church, and went to the Constable's Palace. They
were attended by a Detachment from the hundred _Swiss_ Guards, Light-Horse
and Carbineers. Don _Philip Corsini_ complimented the Constable in the
Name of _Clement_ XII. and told him, that he came to conduct him to an
Audience of his Holiness. A Detachment of Light-horse began the March;
then came all the Feudatory Nobility of the Kingdom of _Naples_: The
Princes march'd alone, according to their Rank, being preceded by their
Gentlemen and Officers on Horseback, and follow'd by the Hackney, which is
a white Horse carrying a Saddle of red Velvet, in form of a Pannel, with
the Housing of the same Stuff, richly embroider'd with Silver, trailing on
the Ground: A Purse of red Velvet was hung about his Neck, wherein was the
Bill of Exchange for seven thousand Ducats, which is the Tribute that the
Kingdom of _Naples_ pays to the Holy See. Immediately after the Hackney,
came the Constable, between two Files of the hundred _Swiss_, preceded by
thirty-six Footmen, and surrounded by sixteen Pages, all of his own
Livery. Don _Philip Corsini_ was on his Right-hand, and M. _Acquaviva_,
the _Major Domo_, (who has been a Cardinal ever since 1733.) on his Left.
The feudatory Prelates follow'd him, drest in short purple Mantles, and
riding on Mules, two a breast. The March was clos'd by fifteen of the
Constable's magnificent Coaches, four of which were drawn by six Horses.
When the Constable came to the Church, he alighted, and met the Pope, who
was just then going out of it in his Procession Chair. The Ambassador
kneeling before him, said to him, 'That the Emperor _Charles_ VI. King of
the _Two Sicilies_, his Master, had charg'd him to deliver to his
Holiness, the Tribute of the Hackney, and the seven thousand Ducats, which
his Imperial and Royal Majesty ow'd to the Holy See, for the Kingdom of
_Naples_.' This Compliment must be made in the _Spanish_ Tongue, to which
the Pope makes Answer in _Latin_. _Clement_ XII. said, 'We accept the
Tribute and the Present which our well-beloved Son _Charles_ VI. Emperor
and King of the _Sicilies_, owes to us; and we give to him, and his August
Spouse _Elizabeth_ the Empress, to his Kingdoms and Dominions, and to all
his Subjects in general, our Apostolical Benediction, in the Name of the
Father, _&c._' When the Pope had said this, the Ambassador, who was all
the while on his Knees, rose up, and an Apostolical Notary, who was
present, immediately made an Entry of this Function in the Apostolical
Register, according to Custom. This done, _Clement_ XII. went out of the
Church, and return'd with a great Train to the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_.
The Constable came out in a Moment after, accompanied by the Emperor's
Ambassador, his Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who rode in the Constable's chief
Coach, the Constable sitting on his Left-hand. The Footmen of the
Cardinal, and of the Ambassador, walk'd in a Body together, without any
Distinction, but the Coaches follow'd alternatively, _viz._ one Coach of
the Cardinal's, and one of the Constable's. His Eminency had ten, which
were each drawn by only a Pair of Horses. Thus they arriv'd at the
Constable's Palace, which they found illuminated with Flambeaux of white
Wax. All the Nobility of ROME came in a few Moments after, with all the
Cardinals. They were plentifully regal'd with Refreshments, and a fine
Firework was play'd off, which was erected in the Court-yard in such a
manner, that it fronted alike both the Palace and the Street. Next Day the
Constable and the Cardinal took another Tour with a great Train thro' the
principal Streets of ROME; and in the Evening, the Ambassador's Palace was
illuminated, where the Sacred College, and all the Nobility, appear'd, as
they did the Night before; and there was another Firework: Thus the
Ceremony ended, and 'tis also Time for me to conclude my Letter, by
assuring you, that I am ever, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXX.
_SIR_, _Rome, Dec. 5, 1730._
Tho' I am heartily weary of entertaining you with Palaces, yet I can't
forbear giving you some Account of the Palace of the Prince _Borghese_.
There's an admirable Court-yard, and the Buildings round it are of an
elegant and agreeable Contrivance. They are two Rows of Arches, one above
the other, supported by ninety-six Columns of Granate, which form
Corridors or Galleries, so that one may walk all round under Shelter. The
Summer Apartment, which is level with the Court, is fit to lodge a
Monarch. 'Tis adorned with the choicest Paintings, and several of the
Rooms have the Pleasure of Fountains in them always playing into Basons of
Porphyry, or other precious Stones, of which one is a complete Piece of
Work of massy Silver. The Furniture is not answerable to all this
Magnificence, it being all as old as the Time of _Paul_ V. who was of the
_Borghese_ Family, and tho' no more than an Advocate at first, rais'd his
Family from the mean State it was in at _Sienna_.
The Eldest of this Family has a Revenue of one hundred and sixteen
thousand Crowns, and as he lives, is in no manner of Danger of becoming a
Bankrupt. There is not a Family in ROME for which St. _Peter_ has done
more than this. The Prince's Palace in the City is, as I have told you, a
stately Building. There are fine Stables belonging to it, and there's a
second Palace fronting the first, which serves in common for the
Domestics. Almost all the Houses of that Ward, which is one of the most
populous in ROME, belong to this Prince, who has also several magnificent
Country Houses, particularly that of _Mondragone_, near _Frescati_, built
by Pope _Paul_ V. and the Garden near the Gate _Pinciano_, made by
Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_, one of that Pope's Nephews. Before the Art of
Gardening was introduc'd into _Germany_ and _France_, the Gardens of
_Italy_ were reckon'd the finest in the World; but now-a-days 'tis
otherwise, and unless (as is partly observ'd before) a Man is an
_Italian_, and never pass'd the _Alps_, he will look with Contempt upon
all the Gardens which the _Romans_ call _wonderful_, _charming_, and
_astonishing_. Nevertheless, I wou'd not have you think that I find no
Beauty at all in their Gardens; I admire the continual Verdure of their
Holyoaks, Firs, Pines and Laurels, of which the Walks are form'd, tho'
they are gloomy and melancholy. I am amaz'd at the Magnificence of those
who made those Gardens, and am pleas'd to find by what they have done,
that they had the Taste of Noblemen, and that indeed they have not come
short of the most excellent Works in their Time. But then I am sorry to
see how little Care their Nephews take of these Things, how they suffer
them to run to Ruin, and how little they know to make a good Use of the
Estates left them by Providence. Thanks to the Foundations of _Paul_ V.
and Cardinal _Scipio_, the Houses and Gardens of the Prince _Borghese_ are
kept in better Order than those of the other _Roman_ Nobility; yet for all
this, they are not near so neat, and so well trimm'd, as the Gardens of
_France_, _Holland_, and the _Ultramontane_ Countries.
_Mondragone_ stands upon an Eminence, and fronts the City. 'Tis a large
Building, after the Model of the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_. The Apartments
are spacious, but very sorrily furnish'd. The House at the Vineyard
_Pinciano_ is only magnificent on Account of the rare Sculptures with
which 'tis adorn'd. 'Tis almost intirely cover'd on the Outside with
stately Basso-relievos, of antique Marble, among which, 'tis a Pleasure to
see _Curtius_ on Horseback, throwing himself and Horse headlong into the
Gulph, to deliver his Country from the Pestilence. The Statue of
_Belisarius_, in the Attitude of a poor Man begging Alms, is so well made,
that it raises Compassion. The Apartments, tho' very ill furnish'd, are
adorn'd with fine Pictures and Statues: Among the latter, you wou'd admire
_David_ holding his Sling, cut in Marble by Signior _Bernini_; the Groupe
representing _Daphne_ beginning to be metamorphos'd into a Laurel, at the
Nick of Time when the God of Day is going to embrace her; the ancient
Statue of _Seneca_ expiring in the Bath, which is of antique black Marble,
representing the Philosopher up to the Middle of his Legs in a Cistern, or
Vessel of _African_ Stone, of modern Workmanship; the famous Statue of the
_Gladiator_ in a fighting Posture, the Work of _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_,
as the _Greek_ Inscription denotes, which is at the Foot of the Statue;
and in fine, the fair Hermaphrodite lying on a Matrass, all of Marble, of
curious Workmanship. 'Tis said that this Statue was discover'd under the
Foundations of the Front of the Church of Our Lady of _Victoria_, at the
Time that Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_ caus'd it to be erected; and really
'tis so curious a Piece, that it wou'd have been pity it had not been
found, and brought again to Light. Were I to tell you of all the other
Statues of the Prince _Borghese_, I shou'd never have done; for no King in
the World has so many, or so fine; and he may boast of being the Owner of
a Treasure that is inestimable.
I beg leave to take a present Farewel of every Thing relating to Buildings
and Statues, and must acquaint you after what Manner _Clement_ XII. has
taken Possession of the Church of St. _John de Lateran_. This Ceremony was
perform'd on _Sunday_ the 19th of _November_ last. The Pope went in the
Morning with his usual Train from the Palace of _Monte-Cavallo_ to that of
the _Vatican_. At half an Hour past eighteen o'Clock, as they call it
here, which with us is about half an Hour past One in the Afternoon, the
Cavalcade began. Two Trumpets and four Light-Horsemen of the Guard led the
Way, follow'd by several close Carriages cover'd with Tapestry embroider'd
with the Arms of the Cardinals to whom they belong'd: Then came the
Cardinals Mace-bearers, with their Maces of solid Silver. These were
follow'd by their Eminencies Gentlemen and Chaplains, by the Legate of
_Bologna_, and the _Roman_ Princes, all very sorrily mounted, and dress'd
in black Coats and Cloaks. Four of the Pope's Equerries in red Robes, his
Holiness's Taylor, and two Boys of the Wardrobe, in Robes of red Serge,
went before two Portmanteaus trimm'd with red Velvet lac'd with Gold,
which were carry'd on the Backs of Mules, in form of a Litter. The Grooms
in Surtouts of red Serge, two and two, leading the Hackneys of the Tribute
for _Naples_. The Pope's Mules with Caparisons of red Velvet, with Lace
and Fringe of Gold. Three Litters cover'd with red Velvet trimm'd with
Gold Lace. The Master of the Pope's Stables follow'd by two Prickers. At
some Distance from thence came the _Roman_ Nobility, walking without
Distinction of Rank, all dress'd in black Coats and Mantles, with great
Perukes, and their Hats off. Then came five of the Pope's Mace-bearers, in
long-sleev'd purple Gowns with black Velvet Lace, bearing their Maces of
solid Silver, and follow'd by fourteen Drummers on Foot, in Surtouts of
red Sattin with yellow and red Lace, bearing the Arms of the fourteen
Quarters, or Wards of the City of ROME. Four of the Pope's Trumpeters
dress'd in Red with Gold Lace. The Valets of the Apostolical Chamber in
red Robes. The Valets _de Chambre_ call'd _Camerieri extra muros_. The
Commissary and Fiscal of the Chamber in purple Robes. The Consistorial
Advocates dress'd in Black. The Chaplains of the Commonalty in red Robes.
The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple
Robes. The four last carry'd on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that
are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of ROME, in
Gowns of black Velvet, and wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were
follow'd by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the
Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the
Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin
Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then
came the Governor of ROME in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes _del
Soglio_ in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding
the Pope's Cross-bearer, who carry'd the Image of our Saviour turn'd
towards the Holy Father, and walk'd between two Ushers bearing red Wands.
Then the Holy Father appear'd in a Litter, like a _Phaethon_, lin'd with
red Velvet embroider'd and lac'd with Gold, carry'd by two white Mules.
Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many
red and silver'd Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin'd with white and silver
Mohair, and inrich'd with broad Gold Lace, encompass'd the Litter, as did
the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths
trimm'd with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the
hundred _Swiss_ rode on Horseback, arm'd with a Cuirass of Iron, and his
Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred _Swiss_ arm'd with
Cuirasses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white
Cassock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider'd
with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin'd with Ermin, a
Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came
the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At
some small Distance follow'd fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were
dress'd in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp'd over their Eyes,
with their red Hats. They were follow'd by Signior _Neri Corsini_, a
Nephew of _Clement_ XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops,
assistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber,
the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic
Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was
clos'd by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the
Marquis _Bartholomew Corsini_, and the Duke _Strozzi_, (both Nephews of
the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuirasses, and had over them Surtouts
of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider'd with Gold. They had on their Hats
great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry'd their Spears and
Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not
of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were
adorn'd with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms
they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue
Taffeta, such as I have seen carry'd by the _Spahis_.
All this Cavalcade pass'd thro' the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung
with Tapestry of red Damask lac'd with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis
_Frangipani_, a _Roman_ Senator, receiv'd the Pope, and presented him the
Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope
answer'd by a Benediction. At _Campo-Vaccino_, thro' which the Train
pass'd, the Pope found near the _Farnese_ Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which
the Duke of _Parma_, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig'd to erect
every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the _Lateran_ Church.
From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable
Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish'd by the _Jews_, who
had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose.
When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv'd at the Gate of St.
_John de Lateran_, by the Cardinal _Picus de Mirandola_, Arch-priest of
the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and
being preceded by the Chapter of St. _John de Lateran_, conducted him to
the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope
being there seated, array'd himself in his _Pontificalibus_, and put on
the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the
Cardinal Arch-priest harangu'd him in the Name of the Chapter, and
presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other
of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn'd with Flowers. During this, the
Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from
his Throne, advanc'd towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal
Arch-priest perfum'd him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler
to him, which the Pope dipp'd into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled
the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and
was carry'd thro' the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of
the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the
Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac'd himself upon a
Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he
receiv'd the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other
Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being
assisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre,
and took it off, just as the Service requir'd. Then his Holiness descended
from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry'd to
the _Lateran_ Palace. During this, the Musick play'd Anthems, and the
Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv'd at the
great Pew fronting the spacious Square that opens towards the City of
ROME, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to
all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter'd among
the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was
carry'd in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals
_Banchieri_ and _Olivieri_, and thus he return'd to the Palace of
_Monte-Cavallo_, attended by his usual Train.
This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more
magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav'd of them, than
they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of
Masquerade which I don't think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of JESUS
CHRIST. All the Laity dress'd in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple,
mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the
Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not
to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at
all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either
in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this
Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers
Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in _France_ and the _Netherlands_
upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic.
The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but
as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen
for some Days before, had almost spoil'd it. Besides this, the Order of
the Procession was very ill observ'd; for there were sometimes Intervals
of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the _Lateran_
Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour
getting along. 'Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals;
if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But
at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from
me again before Lent. I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXXI.
_SIR_, _Rome, March 10, 1731_
I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it
sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate
for it; for _Clement_ XII. has been continually teaz'd upon that Score
from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is
the same here as at other Courts, and I assure you, the Difficulty of
obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all
Countries, and all Courts are alike.
Having made my Application to Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_, who
officiated as Head-Chamberlain, in the room of Signior[4] _Doria_, then
indisposed, he gave the Pope Notice that I attended, and he order'd me to
be immediately admitted. I left my Hat and Sword at the Door, according
to Custom. I found the Pope sitting under a Canopy, in an Elbow-chair,
ascended by three Steps, with his right Foot resting on a Cushion of red
Velvet. As I enter'd the Chamber, Signior _Acquaviva_ bid me kneel, which
I did, and the Pope gave me his Blessing. I then rose up, and approach'd
him as far as half the Length of the Chamber, when I kneel'd again, and
receiv'd the Pope's Blessing a second Time. Then I arose again, and coming
up close to the Pope, I kneel'd again, and receiv'd a third Blessing, all
which Blessings really did not cost his Holiness much Trouble; for they
consisted in no more than making a Sign of the Cross, without speaking one
Word. The Pope, who is talkative, but eloquent, ask'd me many Questions,
and recollected that he had known me when he was only a Cardinal. He was
extremely gracious, and I had reason to be satisfied with my Audience so
long as I had no Favour to ask. But the Moment that I put myself in the
Number of Petitioners, I saw the Pope's Countenance change; his Smiles
were turn'd into Frowns, and I could easily perceive that he had rather
have my Room than my Company. But being appriz'd beforehand, that his
Holiness was always uneasy at receiving Petitions, I proceeded without
omitting a Word of what I had to say to him. In going out of the Chamber,
I went backward, kneeling three times by the Way, as I had done at
Entrance, and the Pope at each time gave me his Blessing, which was all
that I got by my Audience; but I am preparing to desire another very soon;
for they say, the honest Pope loves to be importun'd, and therefore I will
gratify him in his own Way.
Indeed all that go to the Audience of the Holy Father fare no better than
I did, unless they are Princes, and even the Catholics must all kiss the
Pope's Toe. The Prince Regent of _Waldeck_, who was here not long ago,
went to an Audience of his Holiness, and was receiv'd in the same manner
as the Princes of _Brunswic_ had been formerly: He waited some Moments in
the Antichamber, and without being oblig'd to leave his Sword and Hat, as
those of his Retinue were, he was introduc'd by the _Major Domo_ to the
Pope, who receiv'd him seated on his Throne. The Prince did not kneel as
he enter'd, nor did the Pope, who ask'd him several Questions, and was
inform'd that he was a _Lutheran_, give him his Blessing: Before he
withdrew, the Prince desir'd the Pope, that he would give him leave to
introduce his Retinue to him; when one of his Gentlemen, scrupulous to the
last Degree, neither kneel'd, nor kiss'd the Pope's Foot. At _Geneva_
indeed he deserv'd to have his Statue erected, tho' here his Politeness
was call'd in question; but as for the Prince of _Waldeck_, all ROME was
charm'd with his obliging and polite Behaviour: He spent four or five
Months here, and liv'd handsomely. He apply'd himself to the Knowledge of
Antiques, and made a Collection of Stones finely cut, which, tho' not so
large as some are, is not the worse chosen; for he has discover'd a very
great Taste and Skill in Curiosities; and happy would it be for _Germany_
if all its Princes were like him.
The Prince of _Waldeck_ leads me to give you an Account of those
unfortunate Princes who are here call'd the King and Queen of _England_.
Perhaps you will not dislike to know what they are doing, and on what Foot
they stand here. That unfortunate Prince, which is a Title I think no body
can envy him, lives a very melancholy Life; and I question whether the
Pension which the Pope allows him of 12000 Crowns, is enough to make him
easy under his Afflictions: He lodges in the Palace of the Marquis
_Monti_, and has a great Number of Domestics, but few in his Service that
are Persons of Quality. My Lord _Dunbar_ is the chief Man at his Court,
since Mr. _Hayes_, to whom the Pretender gave the Title of my Lord
_Inverness_, retir'd to _Avignon_: This Gentleman is intrusted with the
Education of the young Princes, who are here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_,
and the Duke of _York_, and as lovely Children they both are as one shall
see.
The King, or the Pretender, it matters not, is complimented with the Style
of _Majesty_ by the Pope, and by all that have Access to him. He never
goes to an Audience of the Holy Father in public, but always by the
Back-stairs; and the Pope not only gives him an Arm-chair, but all the
Honours are paid to him that are due to a King who keeps _incognito_. When
the Cardinals visit him, he gives them the _Tabouret_, or little Stool;
but the Imperial Cardinals never go to see him, nor did they think fit to
do it, even at the Time when the Emperor seem'd to be more embroil'd with
the King of _Great Britain_ than ever; whereas the _French_ Cardinals go
to him every Day, and are always with him, notwithstanding the strict
Alliance between the King their Master, and the King of _Great Britain_.
When the eldest Prince, who is here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_, goes to
wait on the Pope, he is treated as the presumptive Heir of a Crown; he has
a Chair set for him with a Back to it, and takes Place of the Cardinals.
As to the younger Son, the pretended Duke of _York_, his Rank is not yet
settled, nor has he yet made a Visit to the Pope.
_The Pretender_ is of a middling Stature, but a mere Skeleton; and if I
may venture to say it, has nothing in his Looks of an Impostor: He is
prodigiously like the Pictures I have seen of the late King _James_ II.
his Father, only his Aspect is something more melancholy; but he is so far
from it in his natural Temper, that he is a Lover of Pleasures, and would
indulge himself in Gallantry, if he was not so strictly watch'd by the
Priests; for if the scandalous Chronicle does not belye him, Mrs. _Hayes_,
_alias_ Lady _Inverness_, had, for a while, the Honour of obliging him. If
one may guess at the Heart by external Appearances, he is sincerely
attach'd to the Religion which he professes, yet without being such a
Bigot as some will have him to be; for he causes his Children to be
educated by Protestants, and every _Sunday_ a Church of _England_ Minister
preaches in _English_ in the Protestant Chapel of his Palace: He is
extremely reserv'd at first to those with whom he is not acquainted, but
it wears off by Degrees; and when once he knows People, he is very
courteous and civil to them. I have the Honour to be often at his Table,
and I am bound to acknowledge his Favours to me.
His Table, which is commonly laid for a dozen Guests, is serv'd with what
is grand and delicate. The Queen eats at her own little Table. People are
seated at the King's Table without any Distinction of Rank, and he sits
himself between the two Princes his Sons: He talks a great deal at his
Meals, but the Tone of his Voice is not the most agreeable: His
Conversation runs generally upon common Topicks, and falls very naturally
upon his Misfortunes. All this Prince's Time is regularly divided; he
rises early, devotes the Morning to his Business, hears Mass before Noon,
when he goes to Dinner, and after sitting an Hour and half, or two Hours
at Table, takes a Nap; and then, unless it be a Saint's Day, when he goes
to Vespers, he walks out for the Air in some Garden or other without
ROME, where he exercises himself on Horseback, or else diverts himself at
Mall with his Sons, and his Gentlemen. In the Evening he returns to his
Palace, and receives Visits from the Cardinals; at Ten o'Clock he goes to
Supper, and at Midnight to Bed. During the Carnival he was almost every
Day at the Opera, where his Box being very large, he used to sup with the
Gentlemen and Ladies of his Court.
The Queen his Wife is a Princess, who deserves in reality to be a Queen;
and tho' not a sparkling Beauty, it may be said that her Person is
infinitely charming; she has indeed the Character of a most accomplish'd
Lady, and never was there a better natur'd Person with more Humility; she
is friendly, compassionate, charitable; her Piety is exemplary, and in
Truth, she leads the Life of a Saint, without affecting the Shew of
ceremonial Devotion; for she has nothing more at heart than to do good,
and her Love of one sublime Virtue is incredible; for tho' she is heartily
attach'd to her own Religion, she has no Rancour against those who differ
from her in Opinion, but would fain reclaim them by her good Example and
good Nature. Were she Mistress of a Kingdom, she would certainly make it
her Rule to discharge the Duties of her Rank as became it; and indeed,
Nature has given her great Advantages to acquit herself worthily in such a
Sphere; for she has a wonderful quick Comprehension, an admirable Memory,
and she speaks _Polish_, _High-Dutch_, _French_, _Italian_, and _English_
so well, that 'tis not easy to distinguish which of those Languages is
most familiar to her. I own to you, that of all the Princesses whom ever I
had the Honour to approach, I don't know one more deserving of the
Veneration of the Public. I should be glad to see her happy; and if that
Respect and Duty, from which I shall never depart, did not bind me so
strongly to the King and Queen of _Great Britain_, I could wish to see her
wear the Crown of the three Kingdoms.
You know that this Princess is Daughter to Prince _James Sobieski_, and by
consequence Cousin German to the Emperor, and the Queen of _Spain_, and
Niece to the Elector Palatine, and the Queen of _Spain_, Widow of
_Charles_ II. Yet all this did not protect her from being arrested at
_Inspruck_, when she pass'd that Way to _Italy_, to be married to the
Pretender; she was kept in very close Custody, and the Manner of her
Deliverance shews the Superiority of her Genius. The Pretender sent Mr.
_Gaydon_, then a Major in the Service of _France_, to try if he could
procure her Liberty; the said Officer went to _Inspruck_, accompany'd by
Mr. _Wogan_, an _English_ Gentleman, and one _Misset_, an _Irishman_, who
carry'd his Wife with him. They arriv'd accordingly at _Inspruck_ with a
great Retinue, and there they pass'd for People of Consequence: They
contriv'd so that their Coach Wheels broke at the Gate of the City, to
give them a Pretence for staying in the Town till their Coach was
repair'd: They introduc'd themselves into all Assemblies, and found out a
Nun whom they brib'd to deliver Letters to the Princess. Having fix'd on
the Day for carrying her off, and even appointed the Hour, which was
Eleven at Night, they got a young Woman of the Princess's Stature to pass
thro' the Guards in the Antichamber, and to lie in the Prisoner's Bed, who
for two Days had pretended to be sick. The Princess put on the Girl's
Cloaths, and in that Disguise went out of her Apartment, pass'd thro' her
Guards, and made up towards _Misset_, who gave a Whistle opposite to the
Convent, as had been agreed on beforehand, that she might know whom to
apply to. The Princess was conducted to an Inn, and as it had snow'd a
great deal, and was very dirty and dark, she happen'd to step into a
Slough; one of her Shoes stuck so fast in the Mud, that she was oblig'd to
leave it behind her, and to walk only with one Shoe on to the Inn. From
thence, without giving herself Time to change her Stockings, she went, wet
and draggled as she was, into a Coach, where Mrs. _Misset_ and Mr.
_Gaydon_ had the Honour to sit with her. _Wogan_ rode by the Side of the
Coach, and _Misset_ stay'd two Hours longer at _Inspruck_, to see whether
any Discovery was made of the Princess's Flight. The Silence of the Guard
was such, that he believ'd they knew nothing of the Matter, so that he
rode after the Princess, but kept two Post-Stages behind, in order to
watch if they were not pursued, which was a very good Precaution; for
early next Day it was found out that the Princess had made her Escape; and
the Commandant at _Inspruck_ immediately sent off Messengers to all the
great Roads, with Orders to all the Officers of the Country to apprehend
the Fugitive. _Misset_ being overtaken by one of those Messengers, he
travell'd a little way with him, and resolv'd either to make him drunk, or
to knock him on the Head. Having provided himself beforehand with a
certain intoxicating Drug which immediately bereaves People of their
Senses, and throws them into a profound Sleep, he gave some of it to the
Messenger; and when he found him doz'd, he took away his Dispatches, and
went and overtook the Princess, who, after travelling three Days and three
Nights successively, without Rest, was got into the Dominions of the Holy
See.
Arriving at _Bologna_, she there found my Lord _Dunbar_, vested with a
Proxy from the Pretender, then in _Spain_, to marry her; which Ceremony
was accordingly perform'd there without much Pomp, and the Princess set
out in a few Days for _Rome_. My Lady _Marr_, accompany'd by all the
_English_ of both Sexes that were at ROME of the Pretender's Party, went
in that Prince's Coaches to meet the Princess; and the Cardinals, the
_Roman_ Princes, and all the Nobility likewise sent their Coaches. Thus
did the Princess make her public Entry into ROME, where she was receiv'd
with great Marks of Respect; and there she was, not long after, join'd by
her Husband[5].
While I am speaking of the Pretender, I ought not to omit acquainting you
of a certain Prophecy in every body's Mouth here, which was said to be
found among the Papers of the late Pope, importing, that in the Year 1734,
the Pretender should be in the peaceable Possession of the Throne of
_Great Britain_; but I would not give much Money for his Hopes[6]. Be this
as it will, the Prophecy is as follows:
Dum _Marcus cantabit Hallelujah,
Et Antonius Veni Creator,
Et Joannes Baptista cænabit,
Tune regnabit et triumphabit Rex in Anglia Jacobus_ III.
_i. e._
_When Easter falls on St. Mark's Day,
And Whitsunday on St. Antony's of Padua,
And when St. John the Baptist's is a Sacrament Day,
Then King James +III.+ shall reign and triumph in England._
Thanks to God, the Carnival is ended; I say, Thanks to God, because it was
to me very tiresom, tho' it lasted here, according to an establish'd
Custom, but a Week. During all that Time, from Two o'Clock in the
Afternoon till Sun-set, all the Streets were full of Masquers, some on
Foot, and some in open Chaises: The former say a thousand silly Things,
and the latter throw Meslin in one another's Eyes by Handfuls; but the
best on't is, that either by their Cloaths, or their Equipage, every body
is known. Besides, the Pageantry of the _Romans_ is always the same, even
in Masquerades; they dress up their Domestics like Harlequins, and make
them follow them with their Faces bare. They thus rake the Air gravely in
open Chariots made like Gondolas. Their Horses are adorn'd with Plumes of
Feathers, and loaded with little Bells like ours in the Sled Races. In the
Evening the Coaches range themselves in two Rows in the Street _del
Corso_, which is besides pretty narrow, and there they see the Race of
Barbs, which are five or six Horses, that are suffer'd to run loose
without a Rider, from the Gate _del Popoli_ to a Place beyond the
_Venetian_ Palace. The poor Beasts gallop thro' the Shouts and Cries of
the Populace, and are often crippled by striking themselves against the
Coaches. The first of these Horses that reaches the Goal wins a Prize for
his Master, which generally consists of a Piece of Cloth of Gold, and at
Sun-set every body retires. Mean time a _Roman_ will tell you, that the
Carnival of ROME is the finest in the World.
But the thing of which they brag most, and which they believe is no-where
to be parallell'd for Magnificence, is their Balls, of which you shall now
be Judge: Several Gentlemen having clubb'd this Winter for the Hire of the
Palace _Barberini_, near the _Mount of Piety_, and caus'd it to be
furnish'd by the _Jew_ Brokers; when the Day was fix'd for the Ball, they
invited all the Ladies; and as to the Gentlemen, they had the Liberty of
appearing there mask'd, provided they made themselves known at the Door:
All the Rooms were small, and but poorly lighted; there were several
Pieces of Dancing to the Music of five or six Violins: The Room design'd
for the principal Nobility was encompass'd with Forms, and the Place for
the Dancers was an oval Nook rail'd in. A Gentleman of the Company that
gave the Ball stood at the Entrance of the Oval; they gave him the Title
of Master of the Hall, and 'twas he that call'd out the Dancers. All the
Ladies were mask'd at this Ball, which was call'd a Feast, but I know not
why; for there were Glasses indeed, but there was nothing to eat or drink.
The Ladies were all very gay, and some of them in Court-Dresses. I have
been twice at these pretended Entertainments, but was so tir'd, and in
such Danger of being press'd to Death, that I don't care to go again; for
which reason the _Romans_ say, I have not an elegant Taste.
Neither am I very well reconcil'd to their Plays, of which indeed here are
none all the Year, except during the Carnival; but then we had two
Opera-Theatres, and four or five for Comedy. Of all these Theatres there's
but one that's good for any thing, and that's the Ladies Theatre, commonly
call'd the Theatre of _Aliberti_ because 'twas built by Order of one Count
_Aliberti_. The Room is excessively large, so that the Voices are lost in
it; it has seven Rows of Boxes, so low and little, that it makes the Room
look like a Henroost; the Pit will hold 900 Persons with Ease: The Stage
is spacious, very high, and fitely decorated; but they don't shift the
Scenes with that Dexterity as they do at our Play-houses, yet, when the
whole is put together, the Place is not to be despised: The Habits of the
three principal Actors are magnificent, but those of the rest are
horrible. Their Voices are good, and so are their Instruments for the most
part; but their Dancers are too bad to behold, and you can't imagine any
thing more hideous: The Women are in the Disguise of Men, out of a
ridiculous Scruple, if I may venture to call it so, which they have here,
that Women should not be seen at the Theatres. This is the Reason, that
the Operas of ROME are vastly inferior to the other Operas of _Italy_.
There is not perhaps a more ridiculous Sight, than to see these Creatures,
who are but half Men, play the Parts of Women; yet, tho' they have neither
Air nor Gracefulness, they are applauded here as much as the best
Actresses are elsewhere. Tho' I am passionately fond of the _Italian_
Music, yet I own to you, that I am disgusted with their Operas, when I see
those Eunuchs play the Part of a _Roland_, a _Hercules_, or some such
Hero; and I have not Patience to see no more than half a dozen Actors, no
Machines, and no Dances, except in the Interludes. In my Opinion, such an
Opera rather deserves the Name of a Concert; good Voices here are very
scarce, and there are actually but five or six Men, and three Women, that
have the Reputation of singing well. The Case is the very same with the
Composers; they have just lost one of the ablest Men of that Class; _viz.
Leonard Vinci_, who, they say, was poison'd at _Naples_; but there are
still remaining M. _Hass_, commonly call'd the _Saxon_, and _Signior
Purpora_, of whom the former is a _German_, who married the famous
_Signiora Faustina_.
While I am giving you an Account of the Pleasures of ROME, I ought not to
omit the Inundations of the Square _Navona_, which are perform'd on the
four _Sundays_ in the Month of _August_. Two Thirds of the Square being
then laid under Water, it forms a Lake, in which the Coaches make a Ring.
The adjacent Windows are full of Spectators, and the Fronts of the Houses
are crowded by the Populace, who make hideous Shouts and Outcries, when a
Coach happens to take in a little Water, or when one overturns, which
sometimes is the Case. The oddest Thing of all to my Mind is, that while
the People were intent upon seeing the Coaches pass, and playing a
thousand Pranks, a Jesuit, mounted upon a Rail at the other End of the
Square, bawl'd out in vain for an Audience of Penitents; and tho' very
few, if any body, heard him, yet he went on haranguing, and 'twas not his
Fault that every body did not forsake all to hear him. About twenty Paces
from the Preacher was a Mountebank, who, by the comical Jests and Actions
of his _Merry-Andrew_, drew a much greater Audience to him than the Jesuit
had.
Are not these now very inchanting Pleasures? Yet a _Roman_, who never
pass'd the _Ponte Mole_, as there are a great many who have not, will tell
you there are none like those of ROME. But I affirm that the _Romans_
don't know what Diversion is; for in those Parties of Pleasure where
reigns the greatest Freedom, there's always an Air of Constraint, which
one does not see elsewhere: Nor does a free Deportment become them,
insomuch that when they assume such a Carriage, they naturally forget
Politeness, which besides is not what they are much used to; for they know
how to be respectful, much more than to be polite. The Way to be
acquainted with them thoroughly, is to visit them at their Country-Seats,
where they are more frank, less ceremonious, and more sociable, and where
they live much better than they do at ROME, at least they feed better; and
I will even venture to say, that they there spend high, but they get not
the Credit by such Living which they ought, because they don't set it off
to the best Advantage; and if I am not too much prejudiced, it seems to
me, that they grudge the Expence. The most sumptuous Article of their
Repasts is Deserts, and they have excellent Cooks and Butlers; but as for
us _Ultramontains_, we are not quite so well used to their Method of
Cookery.
I know not whether 'tis the Depravity of my Taste, or the Want of
Discernment; but I cannot conceive what Motives, except Devotion or
Curiosity, can bring any Man to ROME, than which there is hardly a more
melancholy City in the World: Yet I know some Foreigners, and in
particular certain _Englishmen_, who are fond of ROME to a Degree of
Enthusiasm. I strive to think as they do, and would fain persuade myself,
that the Life which they lead here is agreeable; but I can't be of that
Opinion, nor can I accustom myself to take up Manners and Customs so
contrary to ours. At my Age, 'tis a hard Matter to fall into a new Taste
and Fashion of Living: Those of ROME don't agree with me, and I foresee
they never will; yet if by Chance I should meet with any Pastime here, I
promise you, I'll revoke my Complaints, and give you an Account of my
Pleasures, as I do of my Chagrin.
The People here rise late, and go to Bed late; the first Thing which they
do is to drink Chocolate; then they hear Mass in their domestic Chapel, of
which almost every House has one: They afterwards make some Visits, return
home at Dinner-time, undress, and dine frugally with their Families. After
their Meal they get between the Sheets, and sleep for an Hour or two; and
after that, loiter away as much in doing nothing at all; but then they
dress, and go the Ring, which is without the Gate _del Popoli_; from
thence to the _Ponte Mole_ there's a Walk, which is very sorrily pav'd,
between two Walls, and some pitiful Houses; and there's no Air, but Dust
enough to choak one. When the Sun is upon its Decline, the _Beau Monde_
repairs to the Square, or Place _d'Espagne_, where I think I have already
told you how they amuse themselves. From the Square they go and make their
Visits of Ceremony: At Two o'Clock at Night, which in the long Days in
Summer is about Ten with us, they fall into _Assemblies_. These may be
divided into three Classes, the great Companies for Gaming, the private
Companies where they also play, and the Societies in which they only
converse. Neither of the three are very numerous, which is owing to the
Difference between the Princesses and the Ladies, and to the Fondness of
all the Ladies to have Company at their own Houses.
The Assemblies that are most frequented by Foreigners, are those of
Mesdames _Corsini_, the Pope's Nieces, the Duke of _Santo Bueno_, and the
Countess of _Bolognetti_. These are the three Houses at ROME where there
is most Company, and where Foreigners are most civilly entertain'd. The
Duke has a Concert at his House every _Friday_, at which are present all
the People of Distinction at ROME. _Madame de Bolognetti_ has a grand
Assembly every _Sunday_, which begins with a great Levee of Women, for the
most part well-dress'd, who lend their Ears to two or three prating Abbés,
lolling carelessly on the Backs of their Chairs. A Foreigner enters, and
salutes the Company respectfully; but no Lady gives heed to him, except
Madame _Bolognetti_, a fine young Lady, who is the only one that rises;
and she does her best to entertain the poor Stranger in _French_, which
she talks very prettily. Many other Ladies both understand, and can speak
this Language; but whether it is owing to Timorousness or Ill-nature, they
don't care to talk it; which is so true, that I remember the first Time I
travell'd hither, I one Day accosted a very amiable Lady in the _French_
Tongue, because then I did not understand the _Italian_; but she answer'd
me in good _French_, _Sir, I neither speak nor understand the +French+
Language_. She then turn'd about, and in a Moment I saw a well-looking
Abbé come in, who talk'd with her in private all the Evening, and probably
in such a Language as she understood.
After the Levee they fall to play, but 'tis at such Games as we
_Ultramontains_ know no more of than Magic; _viz._ such as _Tarot_,
_Pazzica_, _Premiere_, and _Milchiades_. As to the last of these, I take
it to be like the Languages, which 'tis difficult to be Master of, unless
People begin to learn them when they are young. It would take up a Man's
whole Life to learn to know the Cards, whereof at one Game they play with
99, which are painted too with very extraordinary Figures of Popes,
Devils, _&c._ and it often happens, that the Devil takes up the Pope.
During the Conclave they play at _Pharao_, but the Pope has prohibited all
Games of Hazard, which was an Injury to many Houses that subsisted by the
Money for the Cards.
The private Assemblies differ only from the public ones, in that they have
not so much Company. There is generally the Mistress of the House, and a
Dozen _Petits-colets_, who really are the _Petits-Maîtres_ of this Place,
supposing them to be _Italians_; for you are not to imagine that these
Gentlemen will suffer a poor _Ultramontain_ Abbé to put in a Word, because
they think he has neither Sense nor Merit. As this is a Country of
Priests, you shall see ten Sparks of the Band to one of the Sword. 'Tis
true, that the Abbé wears the same Habit as the Gentlemen of the Gown, and
as all others do who are not able to lay out much Money in Cloaths; so
that when you see a _Petit-colet_ come out of any suspicious Places, you
must beware of Mistakes; for they are not always Priests, nor even
Clergymen.
The third Class of Assemblies, where there is no Gaming, is generally at
the House of some Prince; there I spend my Evenings with great Pleasure
and Freedom; yet 'tis at one of the chief Houses of ROME, and really the
Conversation is held in one of the finest Apartments in the World. I enter
a very spacious magnificent Room, illuminated by a Couple of Wax Candles,
so that if Custom had not taught me the way, I shou'd be at a Loss where
to salute the Master and Mistress of the House: These two little Candles
are plac'd in great Candlesticks of Silver upon old-fashion'd Stands of
the same Metal. A Fountain of solid Silver, from which the Water spouts
with a soft Murmur, invites me agreeably to Slumber; and it seems as if
those in the Room were afraid to awake me; for they do nothing but
whisper, and not a Mortal stirs from the Spot in which his good or ill
Fortune plac'd him, because it wou'd be a Crime even to move a Chair; so
that unless one had a speaking Trumpet, a Man must be content to converse
with his next Neighbour. The Moment one enters the Room, two Pages in a
black Livery attend us with Ice upon Salvers, but I don't accept it every
time 'tis offer'd; for if I did, my Stomach wou'd have long ago been
congeal'd like the frozen Ocean. This profound Silence, this murmuring
Fountain, all these Cardinals, Prelates and Abbats, dress'd in Black; the
two Wax Candles, giving a dismal Light; all this, I say, together, makes
the Assembly look like Mutes posted to watch a Corpse, and I assure you
that a Church-yard itself does not put me more in mind of Mortality.
Nevertheless it sometimes happens that one or other of the Company raises
his Voice, and relates the News of the Day. This is generally confin'd to
what is done within the City; for what was said by the Pope, the contrary
Effect of some Medicine, or else some Cardinal or Prelate, the Heat or
Cold of the Weather, and the Age of the Moon, are the common Topics. And
after having thoroughly canvass'd these momentous Subjects till Midnight,
all the Company retires with their Heads as empty as their Stomachs.
Can you think, Sir, after what I have told you, that a Foreigner passes
his Time here well? No, truly, ROME is a City that a young Gentleman
indeed ought absolutely to see; for here he will conceive a perfect Notion
of Architecture, establish himself in a Taste for Painting and Sculpture,
and acquire a true Idea of the Magnificence of old ROME: But when he has
digested all this, I would advise him to be gone, since there is nothing
more for him to learn, and he is in Danger of forgetting every thing.
There is not so much as one good Fencing Master, and scarce a Master of
the Languages that understands the _Italian_; and those who are Dabblers
in this Way are generally Foreigners, who have neither Accent nor Method.
All that a young Gentleman can learn here is Architecture, and the Canon
Law; for as to Ecclesiastical History, there are few People that are
Masters of it in its Purity.
A Gentleman that lives beyond the Mountains will here be apt to forget the
good Manners he may have contracted in _France_, or elsewhere; for, I say
it again, the Generality of the _Romans_ know nothing more than Ceremony,
because they are ignorant of good Manners, and there's scarce one of them
in a thousand that has the Air of a Man of Quality: To be a Judge of this,
one must see them at Table, and in what a very slovenly Manner they behave
at their Meals, which is owing to their eating generally alone; for they
then loll so much at Table, that when they dine in Company, they are at a
Loss what to do. They are not only nasty in their manner of eating, but in
their Cloaths; for I believe there is not above one out of thirty that
puts on fresh Linen every Day. I remember that in 1719, when I was in
_France_, a Reformado Colonel, who, tho' an _Italian_, was in the _French_
Service, often came to me in a Morning, and seeing me dress myself, told
me one Day that he observ'd I follow'd the _French_ Fashion strictly: I
ask'd him, In what? He made Answer, In my changing my Shirt every Day.
Nevertheless I wou'd not have you think that this Slovenliness is general;
for there are People as much perfum'd here as elsewhere; and you may take
my Word for it, that a _Petit-Maître_ at ROME is as great a Fop as the
pertest _French Petit-Maître_. Indeed they are more rare here than
elsewhere, because no young Sparks are admitted to the Assemblies before
they are twenty Years of Age.
But as for what remains of the Character of the _Romans_, I must tell you
ingenuously, that I think the Notion we on the other Side of the Mountains
have of them comes far short of it. There are good People in all
Countries, and I know some _Romans_ of as strict Probity as the honestest
_Teutonics_. I know others that are not so honest; but is not the Case the
same every-where, and is there one Country upon the Face of the Earth,
where all the People are virtuous? The _Italians_ are in general accus'd
of being jealous, but I really think it wrong; for there's no Nation where
the Ladies have more Freedom than here. 'Tis possible that some of the
Leaven of the antient Jealousy may still remain among the Citizens; but as
to the People of Quality, I don't think them any more liable to that
Imputation than our People are. I wish I cou'd say as much in their
Vindication as to their being too much given to Niggardliness; but the
Fact is too well known, and 'tis the original Sin of almost all the
_Italians_, particularly of the _Romans_, from the highest to the lowest;
and 'tis undoubtedly this avaricious Temper which makes them so sober as
they are; for I think I took Notice to you, that when they are at other
Folks Tables, they are intemperate enough; yet I never saw the better Sort
drunk, and the common People but very seldom. They are accus'd also of
being revengeful, which may be true enough; but really they are cry'd out
against upon that Score much more than they deserve; for I have known some
that have receiv'd Affronts, so good-natur'd as to forget them. 'Tis true,
that the Populace are very apt to make use of the _Stilletto_, but this is
owing to the too great Indulgence of Justice. A Man convicted of Murder
for the first Time is condemn'd to the Gallies; tho' in some Cases indeed
he is only banish'd from the City, and the Ecclesiastical State; and then,
after two or three Years Absence, he pays 50 Crowns, and returns to ROME.
They who have committed a Murder, and are not apprehended, generally
compound the Matter with the Government by paying a certain Sum of Money.
If Justice was no stricter in our Part of the World, and if our Churches
were Sanctuaries, as they are here, we shou'd have more Crimes perhaps
committed among us than there are at ROME, where, when all is said and
done, we don't hear of Robberies, nor of Murders committed for the sake of
Robberies; and tho' there are no Lanthorns, nor Watchmen, nor Patrolls
here in the Night, I shou'd make no Scruple to go from one End of the City
to the other with my Purse in my Hand. What I shou'd be most afraid of
wou'd be the being assassinated by Mistake; but even Murders of this Kind
are much oftner committed among the Dregs of the People, than among
Persons of Breeding; for since I have been here, I have not heard of such
an Accident to any Person of Note.
I happen'd not long ago to be one Evening at a House not far from my
Quarters, so that I went home alone, and on Foot; it might be about Eleven
o'Clock, 'twas a fine Moon light Night, and there were a great many People
stirring in the Streets. I pass'd thro' the Street _del Corso_, and just
as I came to the Square of _Colonna_, near the House of Cardinal
_Imperiali_, I saw two Men coming towards me, one at a little Distance
behind the other: As the former brush'd close by me, I heard a Pistol go
off, and saw the poor Man fall down dead at my Feet: The Shot came from
the Man that was behind, with whom, it seems, he had a Quarrel at Gaming;
but nobody troubled their Heads to apprehend the Criminal, so that he went
very quietly to take Shelter in a Church, where I saw him some Days after;
at length he is got abroad, and if he can but make up the Sum of 50
Crowns, he will be sure of his Pardon, after three Years Exile. But 'tis
really an abominable Case, that sacred Places, set apart to keep the
Holocaust without Spot or Blemish, shou'd serve as a Place of Retreat for
a Miscreant, that comes in reeking with his Neighbour's Blood. This is an
Abuse which every body confesses, but they are loth to violate antient
Privileges. In the last Pope's Time, _Alberoni_ propos'd to the other
Cardinals in a Congregation to solicit the Pope to take away the
Franchises from the Churches; but his Proposal was rejected, whereupon he
said with Indignation, 'Since 'tis so, I heartily wish, that some Villain
wou'd take it into his Head to murder some one of you, and fly for Refuge
to the Church of which I am Protector: I assure you, that were the whole
Sacred College to demand him of me, instead of delivering him up to
Justice, I wou'd do all in my Power to promote his Escape.' 'Tis said,
that _Clement_ XII. has a Mind to take away those Franchises with regard
to Assassins; but I question whether he will have the Courage to venture
at it, because it brings so much Grist to the Friers Mills, the Privileges
of whose Convents procure them the Respect of the better Sort of People,
and the Homage of the Mob.
Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so
establish'd, yet there is not a City in the World where God is better
serv'd, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this
Purpose there's a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims
is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it
almost every Day, who are there lodg'd and taken care of for three Days,
and then dismiss'd with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of
the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv'd, the Men by the Cardinals, and
the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of ROME.
Divine Service is perform'd with very great Pomp in all the Churches, but
particularly in the Pope's Chapel. Were I to give you an Account of all
the Ceremonies therein observ'd, it wou'd take me up another Day. I will,
in due Time and Place, give you a Narrative of the Ceremonies of the Holy
Week, which, tho' I was present at once before, during the Pontificate of
_Clement_ XI. I am very desirous of seeing again, that I may be the better
enabled to relate them to you hereafter. I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXXII.
_SIR_, _Rome, June 15, 1731._
Tho' the first Promotion of Cardinals by _Clement_ XII. was made the Close
of the last Year, yet I had so many other Matters to entertain you with,
that I deferr'd giving you an Account of that Ceremony till now. This
Promotion was made in Favour of three _Nuncios_, (who, by the way, never
quit their Nunciatures, but for the sake of being made Cardinals) I mean
the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_, and _Spain_, and Signior _Ruspoli_,
the Pope's Kinsman. The latter might have had the Hat during the
Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. his Father having obtain'd it for him of
Cardinal _Coscia_, on the Promise of thirty thousand Crowns; but being
appriz'd of the Bargain, which his Father had made with _Coscia_, he went
to _Corsini_, then a Cardinal, and now Pope, who was his Father's Friend
and Kinsman, and having told him what had pass'd betwixt his Father and
_Coscia_, intreated him to frustrate the Contract, saying, that he wou'd
never accept of a Hat, unless he had it from the Pope's mere Good-will.
Cardinal _Corsini_ being charm'd with the generous Temper of young
_Ruspoli_, took Care to vacate the Bargain; and now that he is seated in
St. _Peter_'s Throne, he has preferr'd _Ruspoli_ over the Heads of many
Prelates, who have grown grey in the Service of the Holy See.
This Promotion was made at _Monte-Cavallo_. The Pope had declar'd in a
private Consistory, that he was resolv'd to make five Cardinals, _viz._
the three _Nuncios_ above-mention'd, Signior _Ruspoli_, and a Fifth, whom
he reserv'd in _Petto_. The Cardinal Secretary of State, for want of a
Cardinal Nephew, immediately dispatch'd Couriers to the _Nuncios_ to carry
them the News of their Promotion, and likewise sent to acquaint _Ruspoli_
of what had pass'd. This Prelate, who waited for the good News in the
Apartment of the Cardinal Secretary of State, went immediately up the
Back-Stairs to the Pope, and thank'd him for the Favour he had just done
him, and then return'd to his Palace, where he receiv'd the Compliments of
all the Nobility. In the Afternoon he went and paid a Visit to Signior
_Neri Corsini_, _Clement_ XIIth's Nephew, the Man whom the Holy Father had
reserv'd in _Petto_. On the _Thursday_ following there was a public
Consistory, in which the new Cardinal, who, till that Day, had, according
to the Ceremonial, been oblig'd to keep his Chamber, and to be dress'd in
Purple, receiv'd the Hat from the Pope's own Hand. His Eminency repair'd
in the Morning to the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_, while the Cardinals were
assembled in the Chamber of the Consistory. He was join'd in the Chapel by
these Cardinals, _viz. Barberini_, who represented the Dean of the Sacred
College; _Ottoboni_, the Great Chancellor; _Albano_, the Chamberlain; and
_Cienfuegos_, Treasurer of the Chapel. Their Eminencies, after great
Compliments, led their new Collegue towards the Altar, and gave him the
usual Oath of Fidelity to the Holy See. They return'd from thence into the
Hall of the Consistory, and the new Cardinal was left alone in the Chapel,
with his _Caudataire_, or Train-bearer, and a Master of the Ceremonies.
During this, the Cardinals went, and made their Obedience to the Pope, by
kissing his Hand; after which two of the Cardinal Deacons went to fetch
Cardinal _Ruspoli_, and introduced him into the Hall of the Consistory. As
he enter'd within the Bar, he made a low Bow to the Pope, who was seated
at the other End on his Throne; he made a second Obeisance in the Middle
of the Hall, and a third at the Foot of the Throne; after which he fell on
his Knees, and kiss'd both the Foot and Hand of the Holy Father, who
rais'd him from the Ground, and embraced him. The new Cardinal went
afterwards, and embraced his Collegues, according to the Order of their
Seniority, and then return'd and fell on his Knees again to the Pope. A
Master of the Ceremonies drew the Cowl over his Head, and the Pope put on
his Hat, which was taken off in a Moment by the Master of the Ceremonies.
The new Cardinal now kiss'd the Holy Father's Foot and Hand a second Time;
and the Pope, rising from his Throne, retired to his Chamber, whither
_Ruspoli_ followed him, and after having thank'd him for the Honour he had
done him, went and rejoin'd the Cardinals in the Hall of the Consistory.
This done, they went in Procession, with the Pope's Music playing before
them, to the Chapel, where _Te Deum_ was sung; after which the Cardinals
went into the great Room that is before the Chapel, call'd the _Royal
Hall_. There they form'd a Circle, where the new Cardinal thank'd his
Collegues for the Honour they had done him, by admitting him for a
Brother, and then they all retir'd. When _Ruspoli_ came home, he there
found a Gentleman of the Pope's Privy-chamber, who brought him the Hat,
which the Pope had just before put upon his Head, in a Silver Bason. When
Dinner was over, the new Cardinal repair'd with a great Train to St.
_Peter_'s Church; after which he went and paid his Respects to the
Pretender to the Crown of _England_, and to the Princess his Wife; he also
made a Visit to the Cardinal Dean; and on the Days following he visited
the whole Sacred College, without regard to their Rank.
A Week after the public Consistory the Pope held a private one, in which
he both shut and open'd the Mouth of Cardinal _Ruspoli_. At the former
Ceremony, the new Pope kneeling at the Holy Father's Feet, his Holiness
laid two Fingers on the Cardinal's Mouth, and strictly injoin'd him not so
reveal to any body what shou'd pass in the Consistories at which he shou'd
be present. This closing up of the Mouth formerly depriv'd the Cardinals
of either speaking or voting, whenever it happened that they enter'd the
Conclave before the Pope had open'd their Mouths; which might sometimes be
the Case, because the Popes generally left an interval of some Days
between the Ceremony of shutting the Mouth, and that of opening it. But
_Pius_ V. declar'd by a Bull which he publish'd the 26th of _January_
1571, that the shutting of the Mouth being a mere Ceremony, it shou'd not
exclude the new Cardinals from giving their Votes, or speaking.
Cardinal _Ruspoli_ being now upon his Legs before the Pope went and took
his Place among the Cardinals: At the same time the Holy Father pronounc'd
the Words _extra omnes_, which are repeated by a Master of the Ceremonies,
and oblige all but the Cardinals to turn out. Then the secret Consistory
was held, after which the Doors were set open, and every body re-enter'd
the Room. The new Cardinal went again, and threw himself at the Pope's
Feet, who open'd his Mouth, by giving him the Power both of Voting and
Speaking. At the same time he nominated the Church of which he was to
bear the Title, and this he did by putting on his Finger a Gold Ring
adorn'd with an oriental Saphir, for which the Cardinal, according to a
Custom establish'd by _Gregory_ XV. is to pay five hundred Crowns of Gold
to the College _de propaganda fide_. With that the Ceremony ended. In the
Evening the Palaces of the Cardinals, the Princes and the Foreign
Ministers, and those likewise of the other Persons of Quality, were
illuminated as they had been on the Day of the Promotion.
There are, as I have observ'd, two Sorts of Consistories, the one Public,
the other Secret, and they are both notify'd to the Cardinals by two of
the Pope's Ushers, who receive the Order directly from the Holy Father
himself. These Ushers give previous Notice also of all the public Chapels
to be held, of all Processions, Cavalcades, and other Ceremonies. They
wear Gowns of purple Cloth, and carry a black Wand. They speak to the
Cardinals on the Knee, in these Terms, _Eminentissime Domine, Crastina
Die, Hora, &c. in Palatio Apostolico erit Consistorium secretum_, or,
_fiat Processio._ They have this Privilege, that the Cardinals must not
let them wait a Moment; but are oblig'd to admit them, in what Plight
soever they are, to receive their Messages standing, and to veil their
Bonnet to them. These Ushers have the Privilege also, that when they find
a Cardinal at Table, they may carry off the best Dish, unless the Cardinal
chuses rather to give them a Couple of Pistoles.
This Consistory is in a proper Sense the Pope's Council of State, wherein
he deliberates secretly with the Cardinals on the most important Affairs
of the Holy See. After the Pope has therein given a particular Audience to
each Cardinal, the Bishops are therein nominated to vacant Sees, and the
Palls conferr'd upon the Archbishops. Every thing that has been treated of
in the consistorial Congregations, is there determin'd, as is, in short,
every thing whatsoever relating to the Welfare of the Church, both in
Spirituals and Temporals: And this is what is call'd the Secret
Consistory. In the Public Consistory, the Pope receives the Ambassadors
that come from Tributary Countries, and delivers the Hat to the new
Cardinals. The Pope has the Power of assembling the Consistory as often as
he thinks fit, and on that Day all other Congregations are suspended. In
this Public Consistory, the Pope's Throne is rais'd much higher than
ordinary, and the Cardinals sit on high Benches, with their Train-bearers
plac'd at their Feet. The Constable _Colonna_, in Quality of first Prince
of the Throne, stands on the Right-hand of it, which is a Post of Honour
that he yields to none but the Pope's Nephews. The Ambassador of
_Bologna_, and the Conservators of ROME, in Robes of Gold Tissue, are
plac'd on both Sides of the Throne, about which are also the Pope's great
Officers. The Holy Father is supported by two Cardinals, one on the Right,
the other on the Left of the Throne, sitting on Stools.
When the Pope declares he has a Cardinal in _Petto_, tho' he names him
not, he is always sure to be a Cardinal, and walks even at the Head of all
those that are to receive the Hat before him. When it happens that the
Pope dies ere he has declar'd him in Public, 'tis sufficient if the Holy
Father leaves a Note behind him, wherein he says, that the Person whom he
declar'd a Cardinal in _Petto_, is such a one; or if two Cardinals attest
that they heard the deceased Pope say, who was the Man that he had
nominated in _Petto_.
The Dignity of a Cardinal is look'd upon here as the greatest Thing in the
World. There are no Cabals nor Intrigues of any kind, which the Prelates
of this Court don't form to obtain it; and a Family at ROME never thinks
its Fortune made, if it has not some Cardinal of its own Name. This is so
true, that one of the first Princes in ROME, who did not want a Hat in his
Family, for the sake of illustrating it, did nevertheless, during the
Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. purchase one for his Son, of the Cardinal
_Coscia_, at the Price of eighty thousand Crowns. But 'tis mere Ambition
only that can make a Man wish to be a Cardinal; for the Life which those
purple Gentry lead, is, as 'tis here said, the most melancholy in the
World; every thing they do at home is by Compass and Measure; they are
continually under Uneasiness and Constraint, oblig'd almost every Day to
be present at Chapels, Congregations, and Consistories, must give and
receive Visits of Ceremony, assist at the Festivals of the Church, at the
taking of Habits, granting of Audiences; in short, a Cardinal who minds
his Profession, has not an Hour in the Day that he can call his own. 'Tis
true, that an infinite deal of Respect is paid to them; but what signify
such empty Honours, attended with a perpetual Constraint, to a rational
Man, who is moreover a Nobleman by Birth, and does not forget that he is
but a Man? I am sure, there are above four Cardinals to whom their
Grandeur is a Burden.
When a Cardinal goes abroad with a great Train, which is here call'd _in
Fiochi_, he must have three Coaches. That in which he rides himself goes
foremost, preceded by all his Livery Servants, and a Footman carrying an
Umbrella under his Arm. All that meet him, tho' they are Princes, must
stop for him; and when two Cardinals meet one another riding out after
this manner in State, they must both stop their Coaches, and compliment
each other, and then the oldest passes on first. When the Cardinals thus
ride out with this Ceremony, they are dress'd in long Robes of Scarlet,
except in Time of _Lent_, when they are of Purple. Their common Dress is
that of an Abbat, with a red Bonnet and Stockings; and 'tis in this Habit
they make their familiar Visits, without any Retinue, and with the
Curtains of their Coach drawn. The best way of seeing them, after a Person
has been once introduc'd to them, is to attend in their Train, when they
go to any public Function, or to make any Visit of Ceremony. The Cardinal,
when he takes Coach, salutes those who are to ride with him. The most
honourable Place in it is by the Side of the Cardinal, the second upon a
Seat in the Boot or the Coach, next to his Eminency, and so of the rest.
As to the vehement Outcry in our Part of the World against the Luxury of
the Cardinals, I really think it unjust; for I can't see wherein it
consists. Their Houshold is not over and above numerous. Their Domestics
are generally a _Maître de Chambre_, an Officer who they say is tantamount
to the great Chamberlain of our Electors; a Cupbearer; a Train-bearer; one
or two Gentlemen; two or three Priests; as many _Valets de Chambre_; eight
or ten Lackeys; three Coachmen; eight Horses, and three Coaches. Their
Furniture is red Damask very plain. They keep so frugal a Table, that they
commonly allow their Cook but one or two Testoons a Day to defray the
Expence of it, exclusive of the Bread, Wine and Fruit; for they always eat
alone. None but the Cardinal Ministers keep an open Table at any time; and
of these, not one does it at present, but the Cardinal _de Polignac_, the
Minister[7] of _France_: For the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, the Emperor's
Ambassador, has retrench'd his Table, by reason of his great Age; as has
the Cardinal[8] _Bentivoglio_, on account of his Infirmities.
I can't help thinking there's much more Reason to exclaim against the
ridiculous Pretension of the Cardinals to an Equality with crown'd Heads,
and to take Place of Sovereigns, tho' a Cardinal is often but an ordinary
Man at first, only rais'd to the Purple by good Fortune, and the Favour of
the Pope; of which we have living Instances in two Creatures of the last
Pontificate, the Cardinals _Fini_ and _Coscia_. That such Cardinals shou'd
presume to have the Precedency of an Elector of _Bavaria_, or of
_Cologne_, of a Duke of _Lorain_, and in short, of every Prince
whatsoever, is what, notwithstanding all my Respect to the Sacred College,
I must own to be an Absurdity. That these Cardinals have conceiv'd such a
high Opinion of their Dignity, is owing to the excessive Complaisance of
the Princes of _Italy_, who every-where give them the upper Hand; and a
Cardinal takes so much State upon himself, that he refuses the Precedency
in his own House, to a Sovereign Prince of _Italy_. Our Princes on the
other Side of the Mountains are perhaps as staunch Catholics, and as much
devoted to the Holy See, as the _Italian_ Princes are; yet they don't pay
this Homage to the Cardinals. And indeed, what Reason is there for it? We
have seen Cardinals in the Service of Sovereigns; and I dare affirm, there
are very few of 'em that wou'd refuse to be Pensioners to an Elector of
the Empire.
When one Cardinal makes a Visit to another, the latter receives the
Visitant at the Coach-door, and conducts him into the Chamber of Audience,
where they both place themselves in Arm-chairs, under a Canopy; and after
having been a few Minutes by themselves, the Gentlemen of the Cardinal
that receives the Visit, bring them Ice, Chocolate, and Sweetmeats. When
the Stranger goes away, the other waits on him to the Coach, lends him a
Hand to put him into it, and even shuts the Coach-door. They give one
another the Title of Eminency, but in all their Interviews there's a great
Air of Constraint.
The complete Number of Cardinals is Seventy. They are the Pope's
Counsellors in ordinary, and have the Right of electing him. They are
distinguish'd into three Orders, _viz._ Six Cardinal Bishops, fifty
Priests, and fourteen Deacons. Their Number was fix'd by Pope _Sixtus_ the
Vth. The first Cardinal Bishop is styl'd Dean of the Sacred College. He
that is so now is Cardinal _Pignatelli_, Archbishop of _Naples_. This
Dean, the first Cardinal Priest, and the first Cardinal Deacon, are styl'd
_Chiefs of the Order_; and as such they have the Prerogative of giving
Audience to Ambassadors, and to the Magistrates of the Ecclesiastical
State, during the Vacancy of the Holy See. _Innocent_ the IVth, while the
Council was held at _Lyons_, made a Rule that the Cardinals Hat shou'd be
red, to denote that they were always ready to shed their Blood for the
Liberties of the Church. _Boniface_ the VIIIth order'd that they shou'd
wear scarlet Robes. _Paul_ III. requir'd that their Bonnets shou'd be of
the same Colour; and _Urban_ the VIIIth granted them the Title of
Eminency, which before that was only given to the Ecclesiastical Electors
of the Empire, and to the Grand Master of _Malta_. The Council of _Trent_
own'd it to be the Right of all Nations, to put in for the Dignity of
Cardinal; but those who push for it with the greatest Success, are the
Kindred of the reigning Pope, the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_ and
_Spain_, the Auditors of the Rota, the Clerks of the Chamber; and in fine,
many of the Pope's Great Officers.
There are few Examples in History of Cardinals that have quitted the Hat.
The first that had a mind to do it, was the Cardinal _Ardicinio_; but Pope
_Innocent_ VIII. refus'd to consent to it, at the Remonstrance of the
Cardinals, who represented to him, that the Church ought by no Means to be
depriv'd of so good a Subject. Some time after this, Cardinal _Borgia_
resign'd his Dignity to _Alexander_ VI. The Cardinal _Henry_ of _Portugal_
quitted his too, for the sake of succeeding to his Brother,[9] the King
_Don Sebastian_. After him, _Ferdinand de Medicis_, upon the Death of his
Brother _Francis de Medicis_, without Issue Male, preferr'd the
Sovereignty of _Tuscany_ to the red Hat, which he restor'd to Pope
_Sixtus_ V. There are also several Instances of Persons who have preferr'd
an austere Retirement to the vain Grandeur of the Purple, particularly
Cardinal _Maurice_ of _Savoy_, _Ferdinand_ and _Vincent Gonzague_,
_Francis_ of _Lorain_, _Camillus Pamphili_, _John Casimir_ of _Poland_;
and _Gabriel Filippuci_ of _Macerata_, so lately as in the Pontificate of
_Clement_ XI. This Resignation of the Hat cannot be made without the
Pope's Consent to it; and when this is done, the Cardinal who renounces it
must pay the Officers of the Apostolical Palace the same Sum, as his Heirs
wou'd be oblig'd to pay, if he was dead.
There being a Hat vacant by the Exaltation of every Pope, they commonly
honour one or other of the Pope's Family with it who advanc'd them to the
Purple; which is what they here call _Restitution_; and when they omit
this Piece of Respect, they are accus'd of Ingratitude. _Clement_ XII. has
not yet made this _Restitution_ to the _Albano_[10] Family, tho' he has
promoted half a score Cardinals. He thought it was more natural to confer
that Dignity on his Kindred and Friends; and at the last Promotion which
he made, he contented himself with making an Apology to the _Albani_,
because he did not restore their Hat to them for that time, assuring them,
that he wou'd take care to satisfy them, at the very next Promotion. The
_Albani_ were oblig'd to set a good Face on a bad Game; but I would not
give them much for the Hat they are like to have of _Clement_ XII. for you
are to take Notice, that the Pope is fourscore Years of Age; that he is
afflicted with the Gout and other Ailments; that there is not one Hat
vacant, and yet the Holy Father hopes to live to make another Promotion,
and then to satisfy the _Albani_.
The Pope pretends to the Prerogative of deposing the Cardinals, but they
deny it. Be this as it will, there's hardly an Instance that the Popes
ever exercis'd this Act of Authority. _Clement_ XI. had an Intention
indeed to haue depriv'd Cardinal _Alberoni_ of his Hat, because when the
Cardinal was the Minister of _Spain_, he employ'd that Money against the
Emperor, which the Pope had permitted him to levy upon the Clergy for the
War against the _Turks_. But _Clement_ XI. met with so much Opposition
from the Sacred College, that he cou'd not accomplish it, and died.
Whether _Clement_ XII. will succeed better, and whether he will ever be
able to deprive _Coscia_ of his Hat, which is what he seems to be very
much set upon, I know not; for he too is thwarted under-hand by a great
many of the Cardinals, who, as unworthy as Cardinal _Coscia_ is of the
Purple, are not willing that he shou'd serve as an Example for the future.
The Pope is also too old to see the Issue of this Process, which, tho' it
has been fifteen Months depending, is not yet very far advanc'd. Cardinal
_Coscia_ is retir'd to _Naples_. He has been very much blam'd for quitting
ROME, and People who know the Tricks of this Court, have assur'd me that
he might have stay'd here safe enough. As for my own Part, if I had been
the unfortunate Cardinal _Coscia_, I wou'd have retir'd, but not in the
Manner that he did. Moreover I promise you, that were I in the Case that
he is now, they shou'd cite me long enough before I wou'd be seen at ROME;
and I think, whoever advis'd him to the contrary, was in the wrong[11].
You know that immediately after the Death of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. the
Populace ran to _Coscia_'s Palace, plunder'd it, and wou'd have torn the
Cardinal Limb from Limb, if he had not escap'd by a Back-door; after
which, he disguis'd himself, and left the City. He ought not to have come
back again, or else he shou'd have got a safe Conduct from his Collegues,
whereby he might have been sure of a Permission to retire to his
Archbishoprick of _Benevento_, after the Election of the new Pope; but he
did not take this Precaution. He came and assisted at the Conclave, and
afterwards went to live in his Palace. The new Pope threaten'd him with
the Castle of _St. Angelo_; whereupon he was frighten'd, and march'd out
of the Country; which is charg'd upon him as a Crime, because a Bull of
_Innocent_ X. of the _Pamphili_ Family, publish'd the 19th of _February_,
1646, injoins, that no Cardinal shall depart out of the Dominions of the
Holy See, without Leave of the Pope; with this Clause moreover, that the
Cardinal who disobeys it shall be summon'd three times in the Space of
fifteen Months, _viz._ once at the End of each six Months, and the last
Time at the End of three Months after the second Citation; and if then the
Cardinal be still obstinate, and does not return, he shall be depriv'd of
the Hat. _Coscia_ has as yet been cited but once, and does not seem
inclin'd to return, tho' his Acquaintance don't stick to affirm that he
will. Mean time, he has been depriv'd of the Archbishoprick of
_Benevento_, which the Pope has conferr'd on[12] M. _Doria_, the first
Gentleman of his Bed-chamber; a Thing so unusual, that Cardinal _Coscia_
complain'd of it bitterly, tho' to no manner of Purpose. I question
whether the Cardinal will ever come hither again, even tho' the Pope were
to give him his Passport: And really, what happen'd to M. _Targa_, his
Brother, is enough to deter him; for this _Prelate_ coming to _Venice_,
after he had been at _Vienna_, soliciting the Emperor's Protection for
himself and his Brother in vain, the Pope order'd him to return to ROME;
which, after having desir'd, and obtain'd Promise of a Safeguard for his
Person, he did accordingly, and took up his Lodging in a Convent. But two
Days after this, the Pope sent him an Order to remove to another, and not
to stir out of it without his Leave. _Targa_ yields Obedience, and the
Monks, to whose Guard he was committed, watch him narrowly; yet for all
this, there came certain Soldiers one Night, who carry'd him off to the
Castle of _St. Angelo_; which seems to be the very Safeguard that the Pope
intended by his Promise; for there he is closely confin'd, and can speak
to nobody. These severe Acts of Justice are frequent in the Pontificate of
_Clement_ XII. who taking a Fancy to undo every thing that was done by his
Predecessor, on Pretence that the said Pope alienated the Rights of the
Holy See, we hear of nothing but Writs and Attachments. The wisest Men,
or, if you will, the greatest Criminals, get out of the Way, while others
suffer themselves to be arrested, as did Signior _Sardini_, who was
impeach'd of having put the late Pope upon making a Treaty with the King
of _Sardinia_, by which the Holy Father granted that Prince the Nomination
to all the Bishopricks and Benefices in his Kingdom. This Prelate was
arrested in his House in the Night-time, and committed to the Castle of
_St. Angelo_, where he is kept a Prisoner of State[13]. Not many Days
before he was arrested, all his Papers were seiz'd, which he desir'd to
have again for the Vindication of his Conduct, but they were refus'd. Some
Days ago the Pope sent to tell him, that he had his Leave to justify
himself, if he cou'd; to which _Sardini_ made Answer, That he had nothing
to say; that the Pope shou'd be his Judge, and Cardinal _Corsini_, his
Holiness's Nephew, shou'd be his Advocate: But all this has stood him in
no stead; he is still in Prison, and 'tis said, that the Pope will either
behead or pardon him.
Some time ago Cardinal _Ottoboni_ made Interest for one _Nocera_, a Canon,
who was in Trouble also upon _Sardini_'s Account; and he desir'd the Pope
that he wou'd please to call in the Writ issued for attaching the Person
of _Nocera_, who was retir'd to a Sanctuary at _Albano_. The Pope made
Answer to the Cardinal, That he was sorry he cou'd not grant him his
Request; but that he wou'd not charge his Conference with the Sin of
having suffer'd Iniquity to pass with Impunity. 'We are old, _said the
Holy Father_; and our Age tells us, that it can't be long before we shall
appear at God's Tribunal; therefore we are desirous of so behaving, that
we may hope there to find Mercy; but this is what we dare not expect, if
we don't let Justice take its Course. Who knows, my dear Cardinal, whether
we shall live till To-morrow?' 'Your Holiness, _reply'd the Cardinal_,
ought not to think of dying so soon: For God generally grants to great
Princes two Stages of Life, one wherein to display their Justice, and the
other their Mercy. He has permitted your Holiness to finish the Career of
Justice, and 'tis to be hop'd, that he will also permit you to run that of
Mercy.'
I will conclude my long Letter with a very curious Anecdote, which I had
from Cardinal _Imperiali_, who has had the Purple so long, that he is
actually grown grey in it. As he was talking one Day of the Bull of
_Innocent_ X. which forbids the Cardinals from departing the
Ecclesiastical State without the Pope's Leave, he told me, That _Innocent_
X. fulminated this Bull by reason of the Elopement of Cardinal _Astalli_,
his Kinsman, when he went to deprive him of his Hat. What gave Occasion to
all the Rout was this: After the _Portuguese_ had shook off the Yoke of
the _Spaniards_, and restor'd the _Braganza_ Family to the Throne, the
King of _Spain_, who always took the Title of King of _Portugal_,
pretended that 'twas his Right to nominate to the Bishopricks and
Benefices that became vacant in _Portugal_. The Pope was at that time in
so much Subjection to the _Spaniards_, that this Plea of their Monarch
perplex'd him sadly. At last he thought of extricating himself out of
this Difficulty, by referring it to a Consistory to nominate to the
_Portuguese_ Bishopricks, and he resolv'd to assemble one with all Speed
for that Purpose. He imparted his Design to no Person but the Cardinal
Secretary of State, and the Cardinal _Astalli_, whom he injoin'd not to
speak of it on Pain of Death. The Evening when the Consistory was to be
summon'd for the next Day, the Ambassador of _Spain_ made such an earnest
Application for an Audience of him, that he durst not refuse it. The
Minister therein told him, That he was inform'd of his Design; and at the
same time protested against every thing that shou'd be done in the said
Consistory, contrary to the Pretensions of the King his Master. The Pope,
very much incens'd that his Secret had taken Wind, suspected that he had
been betray'd by his Secretary of State, and he reproach'd him for it
bitterly, threatning him with the Loss of his Head. The Minister swore,
that he had not reveal'd it to the _Spaniard_; and he said moreover, That
if the Ambassador knew of his Holiness's Secret, it cou'd be only from
Cardinal _Astalli_. He desir'd but twenty-four Hours of the Pope to prove
his Innocence; and to find out where the Guilt lay. For this End he sent
for one of the _Spanish_ Ambassador's _Valets de Chambre_, and promis'd
him five hundred Pistoles, if, after he put his Master to Bed, he wou'd
search his Pockets, and take out a Letter which he said he knew there was
in one of them, written in the very Hand of Cardinal _Astalli_. The _Valet
de Chambre_ cou'd not stand the Temptation, but carry'd the fatal Letter
to the Cardinal Secretary of State, and he made Haste with it to the Pope;
whose Wrath was then wholly turn'd against _Astalli_, to such a Degree,
that he forbad him his Palace, and actually intended to have him arrested
the very next Day: But _Astalli_ disappointed him of that Pleasure,
escap'd the same Night in a _Felucca_ from ROME, and sail'd for _Sicily_.
Then it was that _Innocent_ X. issued the Bull in Question. He caus'd
_Astalli_ to be summon'd, who indeed return'd to the Dominions of the Holy
See; but he stay'd in a little frontier Town of the Kingdom of _Naples_,
where he was accompany'd by a Guard of two thousand _Spaniards_, who
remain'd with him as long as the Pope liv'd, after whose Death _Astalli_
return'd to ROME. I have the Honour to be, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXXIII.
_SIR_, _Rome, Sept. 5, 1731._
Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you
honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all
the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected
Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported
to me; if I accuse wrongfully, 'tis owing to my Misinformation, or my
Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can't
define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I
will now relate them to you as they pass'd this Year.
On _Palm_ Sunday, the Pope distributed Palms in the Chapel of
_Monte-Cavallo_ to all the Cardinals, and others that were present.
Upon the last _Wednesday_ in _Lent_, the Cardinals went after Dinner to
the Pope's Chapel, where they were present at Vespers, and the _Tenebræ_,
sung by the Pope's Voices, without being accompany'd by Instruments. 'Tis
perhaps one of the finest Pieces of Music that was ever compos'd, and 'tis
so much valued here, that the Master of the Chapel dares not to give
Copies of it, nor the others to transcribe it, on Pain of Excommunication.
The Pope being somewhat indispos'd upon _Holy Thursday_, Cardinal
_Barberini_ officiated for him. The Cardinals repair'd in the Morning to
the _Vatican_ in _Sixtus_'s Chapel, and assisted at High Mass; after which
the Cardinal _Barberini_, preceded by the Bishops and Cardinals, all in
Mitres and white Copes, carry'd the Holy Sacrament in Procession, under a
Canopy held up by eight Archbishops, into _Paul_'s Chapel, which was
finely illuminated. There our Lord's Body was deposited, after which the
Cardinals went into a Hall, where they found thirteen Priests of divers
Nations, dress'd in white woollen Robes, with square Caps of the same, all
sitting on a high Bench in form of a Gradatory. Cardinal _Barberini_, who
sat on a Throne erected at the End of the Hall, took off his Cope, and
having put on the Chasuble, he pronounc'd some Collects, which were
answer'd by the Music. He then put off the Chasuble, took a white Napkin,
and went and wash'd the Feet of the Priests, in a silver gilt Bason, which
was carry'd by the Masters of the Ceremonies. Having wip'd their Feet dry,
he kiss'd them, and distributed to each Priest, by the Hands of the
Apostolical Treasurer, two Medals of Gold, and one of Silver. Then he
reascended the Throne, and having again put on the Chasuble, he struck up
the _Pater-noster_, and the Music finish'd it. This done, he went with the
Cardinals his Brethren into a separate Room, where he resum'd his ordinary
Habit. On the other Hand, the thirteen Priests were led by a Master of the
Ceremonies into a Hall, where they seated themselves at a Table, which was
elegantly serv'd. The Pope's Chamberlains of Honour waited on them, and if
the Pope had been well, he wou'd have done the same himself. The Cardinals
din'd also together, and their Dinner, which was one of the most
sumptuous, is always provided at the Expence of their Eminencies out of
certain Monies coming to them from the Rota and the Datary. The Priests
Table is defray'd by the Apostolical Chamber, and the Service of both
Tables is order'd by the Pope's _Major Domo_. The Cardinal's Beaufet is
very neat; I have seen some that are more magnificent, but never one that
is better dispos'd. The Cardinals always take their own Liquor with 'em;
which, 'tis said, has been their Practice ever since the Catastrophe that
happen'd to Pope _Alexander_ VI. and his Son _Cæsar Borgia_, Duke _de
Valentinois_, when the latter, for the Sake of having the Debris of the
Cardinal _Adrian de Cornetto_, order'd Wine that was poison'd to be serv'd
up at a Supper where the Pope was to be present, together with the said
Cardinal, for whom he intended the poisonous Draught. But _Cornetto_ had
the good Luck to escape the Snare, and only the Pope and _Cæsar_ suffer'd
by it: For being both thirsty, when they came into the Supper-Room, and
calling for a Glass of Wine at the very Instant when the Person who was
let into the Secret was gone out of the Room, another fill'd them out each
a Bumper, of the Wine that was prepar'd, which kill'd the Pope; but
_Cæsar_, having caus'd himself to be wrapp'd up in the Skin of a Mule,
recover'd.
After Dinner, the Cardinals return'd to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where they
assisted at the _Tenebræ_, and the _Miserere_. This Day's Ceremony of
washing Feet is a Custom of antient Standing among the Catholic Princes.
We find in the History of _France_, that _Robert_ the _Pious_, he that was
call'd King of his Morals, as well as of his Subjects, constantly kept two
hundred poor Men in his Retinue, and often wash'd their Feet, particularly
upon Holy _Thursday_. So at _Vienna_, _Versailles_, in _Spain_, and at
several other Courts, the Empress, the Queens, and other Sovereign
Princesses, wash the Feet of thirteen Women upon the same Day.
Upon good _Friday_ in the Morning, the Cardinals were again present at
Divine Service in _Sixtus_'s Chapel; after which, they din'd together, but
they had nothing besides Roots; and one of the Pope's Chaplains read the
Lecture. After their Repast, they again assisted at the _Miserere_, and
then they all went down into St. _Peter_'s Church, where, having form'd a
Semi-circle before the High Altar, they kneel'd down upon Cushions of
purple Cloth, and in that Manner reverenc'd the Reliques, which were held
forth to them from a high Balcony. These were the Spear with which our
Saviour's Side was pierc'd, the Holy Handkerchief, and a great Piece of
the Cross on which he was crucify'd.
On _Saturday_ the Cardinals assisted at Divine Service, in the Chapel of
_Monte-Cavallo_.
Upon _Sunday_, which was the first Day of _Easter_, the Pope, dress'd in
his _Pontificalibus_, was carry'd in his processional Chair to his Chapel,
where he struck up the High Mass, which was sung to the End by a Cardinal
Priest. Then the Pope was carry'd to the Box or Gallery facing the Great
Square, where a Cardinal Deacon read the Bull _In Coena Domini_ with an
audible Voice; after which the Pope fulminated the Apostolical Censures
against Heretics, by throwing down a lighted Flambeau into the Square.
After this, the Holy Father, while the Cannon were fir'd from the Castles
of _Monte-Cavallo_, and _St. Angelo_, gave his Benediction twice to the
Populace, who were on their Knees in the Square, and in the Streets that
led to the Palace. The Blessing which the Pope gives that Day is solemn,
and extends to the whole Christian World. I forgot to tell you, that upon
Holy _Thursday_ and Good _Friday_, while the Church is in Mourning for the
Saviour of the World, the Pope's Chapel is stripp'd of all Ornaments, the
Throne of the Holy Father is without a Canopy, and the Pope neither gives
so much as one Blessing, nor admits any body to kiss his Foot or his Hand.
Since I am treating of Ceremonies, I will give you an Account of those
that are observed at the Fabrication and Distribution of the _Agnus Dei_'s
of white Wax, which on one Side represent the Saviour of the World, in the
Form of a Lamb, (bearing the Standard of the Cross) according to the
Attribute that was given him by his Forerunner St. _John_ the _Baptist_.
This of _Agnus Dei_ is an old Custom in the Church. St. _Augustin_ makes
mention of it in his 118th Epistle. _Baronius_ assures us, in his 8th
Volume, that 'twas the Custom in his Time, upon the _Quasimodo Sundays_,
to distribute among the People _Agnus Dei_'s consecrated by the Pope. And
Cardinal _Bellarmine_ says, that in 798, Pope _Leo_ III. gave an _Agnus
Dei_ to the Emperor _Charlemain_, which was set in a Gold Frame adorn'd
with precious Stones[14]. All the Popes consecrate _Agnus Dei_'s in the
first Year of their Pontificate; and they perform the same Ceremony in the
Jubilee Year, and every seven Years, reckoning from the first Year of
their Exaltation. _Clement_ XII. perform'd the Ceremony on the _Wednesday_
after _Easter_, in the great Hall of his Apartment at _Monte-Cavallo_,
which was then hung with red Damask adorned with Gold Lace. The Pope's
Throne was at one End of the Hall, with an Altar on his right Hand; and
between the Throne and the Altar, there was a Pew for the Pretender and
his Family. Opposite to the Throne, there was a great Gallery, with Steps
to it, for the Ambassador of _Venice_, the Ladies, and other Persons of
Distinction. Under that Gallery was an Amphitheatre for the Spectators of
the second Class. Within the Rails, which were cover'd with red Damask,
there was a square Pit, and in the Middle of it four large Cisterns of
solid Silver, full of Water, placed on Pedestals of Wood, silvered and
gilt, Admirably carv'd by _Bernini_. When the Pope, accompanied by ten
Cardinals, whom he had invited to this Ceremony, was entered into the
Hall, and seated on his Throne, two Chamberlains of Honour placed a
Cistern before him of the same Kind as the four that were in the Hall. The
Pope, who had a Mitre upon his Head, of silver Brocade, and a Cope of the
same, struck up the _Veni Spiritus Sancte_, which the Music carry'd on.
Afterwards the Holy Father read some Collects, and blessed the Water that
was in the Cistern before him, into which he poured Holy Oil, and Holy
Chrism. Then came four Cardinals with silver Ladles, who dipp'd them into
the Holy Water, and carry'd it to mix with the Water that was in the four
Cisterns. This done, the Pope and the Cardinals put on great white Aprons,
and the Cardinals sat two and two upon Joint-stools at each Cistern, while
two other Cardinals supported the Pope. The _Chamberlains of Honour_, and
the Prelates of the Houshold, brought the _Agnus Dei_'s in wooden Tubs,
wash'd with Silver; and as fast as they threw them into the Cisterns
fill'd with Holy Water, the Pope and the Cardinals fish'd them up again
with great Skimmers of Silver, and put them into other Tubs, which the
Prelates deliver'd to the Sextons. This lasted near two Hours, till the
Pope, being quite fatigued, rose up, read some more Collects, and then
retired. The same Ceremony was repeated next Day, and in these two Days
they made threescore thousand _Agnus Dei_'s, which they say cost the
Chamber twelve thousand Crowns.
Upon _Quasimodo Sunday_, the Pope distributed the _Agnus_'s with very
great Ceremony in the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_. He was carry'd in his
Processional Chair from his Apartment to the Chapel, where, being seated
on his Throne, and the _Agnus Dei_ having been perform'd by the Music, one
of the Apostolical Subdeacons, carrying the _Agnus_'s in a Silver Bason,
preceded by the Cross, and by the Acolytes, or Assistants at Mass, bearing
Wax Candles in great Silver Candlesticks, and the Censer, enter'd the
Chapel, and kneeling down, said to the Pope with a loud Voice, _Pater
Sancte, isti sunt Agni novelli, qui annunciaverint nobis Alleluja; modo
venerunt ad fontes, repleti sunt charitate; Alleluja._ To which the Choir
answered, _Deo Gratias; Alleluja._ Then the Sub-deacon rose, and went and
kneel'd down in the Middle of the Chapel, where he repeated the same Words
as before. He did the same Thing at the Foot of the Pope's Throne, to whom
he presented a Bason full of _Agnus Dei_'s, in little Packets, wrapp'd up
in Cotton, which the Holy Father distributed to the Cardinals, and all the
Standers-by, who receiv'd them on their Knees. I got my Share of them, and
only wait for an Opportunity to send some to you.
There's a Sort of People here who carry their Pretensions very high. These
are the _Roman_ Princes, who for most part are only beholden for this
princely Dignity to the Happiness of their Families, in having one of them
a Pope; for many of them are scarce so much as Gentlemen. They are
complimented with the Style of Excellency, but this Title extends only to
the First-born of the Family. They require a vast deal of Homage from
their Domestics, and all affect to have Canopies and Chambers of Audience
in their Palaces. They expect that a Gentleman should come to their Houses
without sending Word beforehand, and wait in their Antichamber till they
are pleas'd to see him. You will think that they must be very necessitous
Gentlemen, who will submit to this Rule, and that their Excellencies
Antichambers are only frequented by their own Domestics. When they receive
Visits from one another in Ceremony, they seat themselves under a Canopy
like the Cardinals; then they go abroad in State, and have two Coaches to
follow their Body-Coach, in which his Excellency sits forward by himself,
and his Gentlemen ride backward, and at the Boots of the Coach: A Footman
carries an Umbrella before them, as is done before the Cardinals, which is
a Signal of Respect that requires all Coaches, except those of the
Cardinals or Priests, to give them the Way, and even to stop while they
pass by.
The Princesses formerly did not use to give the Right Hand to the Ladies
of Quality at their own Houses; but since the Honours annex'd to
_Nepotism_ have been abolish'd, they have been oblig'd to humble
themselves, and to treat the Ladies as their Equals; yet for all this they
correspond together very little. Heretofore too the Pope's Nieces did not
give Precedence to any body, not even to the Princesses; and all Ladies in
general were oblig'd to be in a full Dress, when they paid them a Visit;
nor did the Nieces go to any body's House, but enjoy'd all the Honours of
Sovereigns. But all this is over now; for the Nieces of the present Pope
not only give the Right Hand to Ladies of the lowest Rank, but also return
their Visits. Indeed the Princesses _Corsini_ are extraordinary civil and
complaisant to every body; and even at this Day, tho' the Pope has
declar'd their Husbands Princes and Dukes, they are content to pass with
the Title of Marchionesses, and have set up no Canopies. The Nobility are
vastly pleas'd with their Carriage, but the Princes are much disgusted at
it, and think that by such Behaviour they disparage their Dignity.
Some Days ago an _Englishman_, one _Thirems_, who has been a long time in
the Service of the Great Duke of _Tuscany_, and is very much attach'd to
the _Corsini_ Family, said to the Pope, with whom he is very free, that
the Behaviour of the _Corsini_ Ladies was very much applauded by the
Nobility, but as much dislik'd by the Princes. 'What! _said the Pope_, Do
the Princes think that my Nephews and Nieces were not of as good Blood,
when they had only the Title of Marquises and Marchionesses, as they are
now they have the Title of Prince? I would have them know, that tho' I
have declar'd my Nephews Princes and Dukes, it was rather to conform to an
old Custom, than with any Design to ennoble them.'
I would pardon the _Roman_ Princes all their Vanity, if they enjoy'd any
solid Prerogatives; but at their Estates they are no more than plain
Gentlemen, and whenever the Pope pleases, he sends the _Sbirri_ to arrest
them, as well as the meanest of his Subjects. The Thing which puffs up
this Gentry to such a Degree, is, that Gentlemen of good Families make no
Scruple to wait on them, the Poverty among the Nobility being very great,
and there being but a very indifferent Chance for Gentlemen of the Sword,
because the greatest Part of the _Roman_ Gentry are so much degenerated
from their Ancestors, that they have no Taste for Arms; while their
Fondness for ROME, and the Notion they have, that there is not such a
delightful Place in the World, hinders them from going abroad, and puts
them under a Necessity of being Slaves to People, who are very often their
Inferiors in Birth.
Nor do the _Roman_ Princes distinguish themselves either by their Air, or
their Manner of Living. They have a great Number of Footmen indeed, some
no less than two dozen; but they live very meanly, so that not one of
them keeps an open Table, or has any thing to treat with but Ice, and at
most a Dish of Chocolate. The Evening is the Time to converse with them;
for as soon as the _Angelus_ has sounded, all Ceremonies at ROME are over,
the Abbats and Priests go in the Lay Habit to the Cardinals, and all
Compliments at meeting are set aside.
The Princes and the Cardinals give their Domestics such sorry Wages, that
their Livery Servants are continually mumping. The first Time one comes to
a House, the Domestics accost you for something to drink, which is what
they call _Lucky Handsel_; they mump again at New-Years Tide, and in the
Month of _August_, which is what they call _la Ferra Gusta_, and again
when the Mistress of the House is brought to bed of a Son; in short, they
find out so many Pretences, that they are perpetually teizing People for
Money.
The Princesses have the Privilege of being lighted to the public
Spectacles by eight Flambeaux of white Wax; but I have known some of them,
who, for saving their Wax, never burnt any till they came within four or
five hundred Paces of the Theatre, when they stopp'd to give their
Lacqueys Time to light their Flambeaux, in order that they might arrive at
the Opera in Pomp. And when they went out, they stopp'd at the very same
Place for the Lacqueys to put out their Flambeaux, from which Place all
the Light the Princesses had to go home by was no more than a couple of
little dark Lanthorns, which are here made use of commonly. This way of
going with eight Flambeaux puts me in mind of a certain _English_
Dutchess, who having travell'd in that manner at ROME, would fain have
introduced the Fashion at _Paris_ too; but she was forbid to make that
Parade there, because the first two or three times that she went abroad
with so much Splendor, every body fell on their Knees, and thought the
Holy Sacrament was carrying to some sick Person.
Most of the Ladies, as well as Princesses, have very magnificent Coaches,
but seldom make use of them. The Marquis _Sudarini_, who has lately
match'd his Son, has made his Daughter-in-law a Present of a Coach, for
which he gave 7000 _Roman_ Crowns, and there are many others that cost
more Money; but these Coaches are terrible Machines, and 'tis as much as a
Pair of Horses can do to drag them along: Besides, these stately portable
Houses have an Attendance on them, which is by no means suitable; they are
generally accompany'd by half a score, or a dozen shabby Footmen, who,
with the Swords that they wear, look more like Catchpoles than Footmen.
Their Liveries in general are Scarecrows, and I do not think that there
are any in the whole World more fantastical: The Lacqueys are for the most
part old, dirty, unshapable Fellows, because, when once a poor Wretch has
a Livery put upon his Back, he never throws it off, and does not so much
as attain to the Honour of being a _Valet de Chambre_. When he is past his
Service his Master _jubilées_ him, that is to say, puts him upon Half-pay,
and he serves no longer. The Appearance or Neatness of a Servant are
Things that are not regarded here; and provided they have but the Number,
what matters it, say they, how they look?
This Maggot of keeping so many Lacqueys has infected even the Citizens;
they who are in such mean Circumstances, that they cannot afford to
maintain them the whole Year round, covenant with them only for _Sundays_
and Saints Days. Thus a Journeymen Shoemaker, or a Chimney sweeper, who
has but that very Day put a Scrub Livery on his Back, and that often
borrow'd of a Tallyman, shall walk gravely before young Master, or pretty
Miss, to and from Church, with his greasy Hair turn'd up behind his Ears,
and a long Sword by his Side. For it would be reckon'd indecent here to
see a Woman or a Miss go abroad alone, and the most abandon'd Prostitutes
are always attended with a Matron.
The Funerals of Persons of Quality are perform'd here with very great
Pomp; all the Dead are carried to Interment with their Faces bare. I saw
the Funerals of Cardinal _Buoncompagno_, Archbishop of _Bologna_, and the
Prince _Ruspoli_. The former was carried by Night in one of his Coaches to
the Church of St. _Andrew de Laval_, which was hung all over with Black.
Next Day the Corpse was laid upon a Bed of State in the Middle of the Nave
of the Church, dress'd in the Sacerdotal Vestments, with the Head turn'd
towards the Choir, and the Cardinal's Hat at the Feet: Four _Valets de
Chambre_ stood at the Corners of the Bed, and each held a Banner of black
Taffeta, with the Arms of the Deceas'd: There were an hundred great Tapers
or Torches of White Wax in large Iron Candlesticks round the Bed: The high
Mass was sung with Music, and the whole Sacred College was present: When
the Cardinals enter'd the Church, they made a short Prayer to the Holy
Sacrament on their Knees; after which they went and kneeled at the Feet of
the Deceased, where they said a _Pater_, and the Prayer _Absolve Domine,
&c._ and then taking the Holy Water Brush, they sprinkled it on the
Corpse: The Cardinals retir'd after the Mass, but the Corpse lay expos'd
till the Evening, when the Priests Vestments were taken off of the
Deceased, and he was put into a Leaden Coffin, which was inclos'd in
another of Cypress Wood, and then let down into the Grave. The Prince
_Ruspoli_'s Corpse was expos'd in the Church of St. _Laurence Lucini_,
which had been his Parish Church, in the same manner as the Cardinal _de
Buoncompagno_ was; but none of the Cardinals, nor any of the Deceased's
Kindred, assisted at the Office; for the _Italians_ say, 'tis barbarous to
oblige Relations to attend each other's Funerals, as is the Fashion with
us.
But tho' they do not attend at the Funerals, yet they wear Mourning much
more regularly, and longer than we do. A Woman's Mourning is black from
Head to Foot, so that one does not see the least Bit of Linen they have,
which is not a very favourable Circumstance to those of a brown
Complexion. The Pope's Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their
nearest Relations; for the _Romans_ reckon it so great a Happiness for a
Family to have a Pope of it, that they say nothing ought to afflict the
Kindred of a Pope.
They bury People here twenty-four Hours after they are dead, and sometimes
sooner. 'Tis surprizing to see how quick they dress their Churches,
whether for Funerals or Festivals, which it must be allow'd is always done
with extraordinary Magnificence and Elegance. Most of the Churches have
their own Suits of Hangings. Upon solemn Festivals they are commonly hung
with Crimson Damask, with a Border of Velvet of the same Colour, adorn'd
throughout with Lace and Fringe of Gold. All these Festivals of the Church
are celebrated with very great Pomp and Bustle; all the Houses of the
adjacent Quarters are illuminated in the Eve of the Festival, as well as
in the Night itself; which always concludes with a Firework play'd off in
the most spacious Part of the Quarter where it is celebrated, at the
Expence of the Parishioners. The _Romans_ have a singular Taste for all
Holidays, and are great Admirers of Spectacles: They are at least as mere
Cockneys as the _Parisians_, and every little Novelty makes them run to
it, as if they had never seen the like in their Lives, tho' all that they
see is but the same Thing over again: They erect a Firework in the
Twinkling of an Eye; these are very high Machines made of Reeds cover'd
with Paper, which makes a very great Shew at little Expence: There's
scarce a Week that passes in the Summer-time, but they have one or two of
these Fireworks.
The Tribunal of the _Rota_ is, next to the Congregations of the Cardinals,
the chief Tribunal in ROME, if not of the whole World; for its Authority
extends over all the Kingdoms and Dominions that acknowledge the Holy See.
It consists of a dozen Prelates, who have the Title of Auditors; _viz._
one _German_, one _French_, two _Spaniards_, one _Bolognese_, one
_Ferrarese_, one _Venetian_, one _Tuscan_, one _Milanese_, and three
_Romans_. They have four Notaries under them, and the oldest Auditor is
President; they meet twice a Week in the Palace where the Pope resides.
Appeals in all Catholic Countries for Causes relating to Benefices are
made to the Tribunal of the _Rota_.
The Governor of ROME is always a Prelate, and commonly an Archbishop _in
partibus_; his Post gives him the Rank immediately after the Cardinals,
and he challenges Precedency of the Ambassadors of crown'd Heads[15]; tho'
I cannot positively say whether these yield it to him, because I never yet
saw them appear at any public Ceremony. This Governor is the Sovereign
Judge of Criminal Causes, and takes Cognisance of all Civil Causes, that
require a speedy Issue: He has under him a Lieutenant and an Auditor
Civil, a Lieutenant and two Judges Criminal, with a Multitude of Subaltern
Officers; and the Provost, who is call'd the _Barrigello_, with 300
Sergeants, or _Sbirri_. When he goes abroad, he is attended by his Guards,
who are ten or a dozen old Halbardiers, more ragged than any that you ever
saw; he causes his Horses to wear Tufts of black Feathers; for you must
know, that there are four Sorts of Plumes; the Cardinals who are Princes
by Birth, or the Ambassadors, have them of Red and Gold; those of the
Cardinals, who are not Princes, are plain Red; the Princes have theirs of
Gold Colour: The Governor of ROME, and the other Prelates, as the _Major
Domo_, cause their Horses to wear black ones: The Governor always goes
abroad with two Coaches, and has an Umbrella carried before him as the
Cardinals have: He goes twice a Week to an Audience of the Holy Father, to
give him an Account of what passes, but particularly to make a Report of
the condemn'd Malefactors; and he must never be absent from ROME: One of
the noblest Prerogatives belonging to his Office, is, that he never quits
it but to be made a Cardinal.
Another Magistrate of Note at ROME is the _Senator_: The _Romans_ pretend
that he represents the ancient Senate of ROME; if so, 'tis but a poor
Epitome of it. He lives in the Capitol, and must always be born out of
ROME. He holds his Office by Patent from the Pope, and has it for his
Life. He has under him several Subaltern Officers; two Lieutenants Civil,
styl'd Collaterals; a Judge, intitled Captain of the Appeals; a Lieutenant
Criminal, or _Fiscal_, who passes Sentences of Death; and he has a Right
to take Cognisance of all Causes Civil and Criminal, that happen to arise
between the Citizens and Inhabitants of ROME: For this End he has also
under him 30 Notaries or Commissaries, and the Prisons of the Capitol are
at his Disposal: When he appears at any public Ceremony, he is dress'd in
a long Robe of Gold Brocade lin'd with red Taffeta, and a Cap of black
Velvet: He has a Seat to himself in the Pope's Chapel, and goes, like the
Governor of ROME, twice a Week, to give an Account to the Pope and the
Cardinal Nephew of what has pass'd at his Bar; he is then dress'd in a
long Simar, or Robe of Velvet, or black Mohair. When he enters into his
Office, he takes an Oath to the Pope, and his Holiness gives him the Staff
of Command, which is a Sceptre of Ivory; he is afterwards conducted with
great Ceremony to the Capitol, guarded by all the Nobility of Rome on
Horseback, and by all the Militia of the City.
Their Manner of executing Criminals is very singular. They have but two
Sorts of Punishments here, _viz._ the _Strappa Corda_, and the Gibbet. The
first, tho' 'tis not mortal, seems to my Mind more terrible than Death
itself; the Malefactor being ty'd with his two Hands together to a Rope,
by which he is hoisted 15 or 16 Feet from the Ground, and then let fall on
a sudden, so that he generally becomes a Cripple for Life. When a Man is
to be hang'd, they talk of it a Week beforehand, as if it was the finest
Holiday in the World: The Night before the Execution, several Prelates,
Princes, and others of Quality admitted into the Confraternity of
Comforters, repair at Midnight to the Prison. When they come near the
Dungeon, they make a great Noise, and with a loud Voice ask the Gaoler,
_Where is such a one?_ naming the Criminal that is to be condemn'd. _Here
he is_, says the Man, loud enough to be heard by the Criminal. _Open the
Doors to us_, say the Comforters; _he is in a bad State there, we will
remove him to a Place where he shall be better_. The Turnkey opens the
Dungeon, and lets in the Comforters, who exhort the Criminal to go along
with them; and being guarded by a Company of the _Sbirri_, they put him
in the middle, and carry him thro' several Galleries and Turnings towards
the Door of a Chapel, before which is hung a Piece of black Cloth. Just as
the Criminal is preparing to enter it, the Fiscal, calling him by his
Name, says to him, _You--there is your Sentence_; and at the same time
throws him a Paper, in which the Sentence is written: The Criminal reads
it, or else one of the Comforters does that Office for him: That very
Moment the _Sbirri_ withdraw, and the Comforters remain alone with the
Criminal: Then the Cloth hung before the Chapel Door is lifted up, and the
Patient is led to an Altar at the End of it, with a Crucifix upon it, in
the middle of six lighted Wax Candles, where the Question is put to him,
_If he is willing to confess_: If he says, Yes, as very few _Italians_ die
willingly without Confession, a Confessor is allotted him, who gives him
the best Advice that he can.
The _Italians_ generally make their _Exit_ like good Christians, but 'tis
with very great Reluctance. A Man, who was condemn'd to die some Years ago
for the Crime which brought down Fire from Heaven upon _Sodom_, would not
hear any Talk of Confession; upon which Cardinal _Banchieri_, at that time
only a Prelate, being one of his Comforters, and exhorting him to beg of
God to pardon his Sins; _What!_ said the Criminal to him, _Would you have
me die for a Crime, of which you Priests are all guilty to a Man? I don't
know_, said the Cardinal, _of any Priests that are so unhappy as to commit
such a Crime; but if there are, they don't plead guilty in the Face of
Justice_. Another Malefactor being very loth to die, a Comforter said to
him, that Kings and Popes must all submit to Death. _True_, reply'd the
Convict, _but they are not all hang'd_.
After a Criminal has confess'd, he receives the Sacraments, and the
Comforters continue with him till the next Day. At Ten o'Clock, which is
the Hour of Execution, he is convey'd in a Cart to the Gallows, to which
he rides backwards, attended by two Priests, and two Comforters. When they
are come to the fatal Place, they set him down out of the Cart before a
Chapel to say his Prayers; and then they make him walk backwards to the
Foot of the Ladder, which he always mounts with his Back to it; when the
Hangman, who is at the Top of it, fastens the Rope about his Neck, and
then leans with all his Weight upon his Shoulders, to put him out of his
Pain. After he is expir'd, Masses are said in all the Churches, and even
in the Pope's Chapel, for the Repose of his Soul; and for this End a
Collection is made, to which the poorest People contribute something; at
length, after he has hung four or five Hours, he is bury'd like another
Man.
You'll excuse me, Sir, for concluding my Letter with such a dismal
Subject: The Post is just going off, and I have many other Letters to
write, so that I hope you won't take it ill that I add no more to this. I
am, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER XXXIV.
_SIR_, _Rome, October 10, 1731._
This being in all Appearance the last Letter I shall write to you from
ROME, I shall now give you the best Answer I can to the Questions you put
to me in your last.
You de
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