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The Myrtle Reed Cook Book

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Title: The Myrtle Reed Cook Book

Author: Myrtle Reed


        
Release date: October 10, 2011 [eBook #37680]

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/37680

Credits: Produced by Sharon Joiner, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
        Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
        produced from images generously made available by The
        Internet Archive/American Libraries.)


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MYRTLE REED COOK BOOK ***




Produced by Sharon Joiner, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive/American Libraries.)









                 The
             Myrtle Reed
              Cook Book


           [Illustration]


         G. P. Putnam's Sons
         New York     London
       The Knickerbocker Press
                1916


     Copyright, 1905, 1906, 1911
                 by
         G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS

           Copyright, 1916
                 by
         G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS

  The Knickerbocker Press, New York




    _Over One Million Copies Sold_

    MYRTLE REED


    _Miss Reed's books are peculiarly adapted for dainty yet
    inexpensive gifts. They are printed in two colors, on
    deckle-edge paper, and beautifully bound in four distinct
    styles: each, cloth, $1.50 net; red leather, $2.00 net;
    antique calf, $2.50 net; lavender silk, $3.50 net._

    _If sent by mail add 8 per cent. of the retail price for
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      THE SPINSTER BOOK

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      FLOWER OF THE DUSK

      OLD ROSE AND SILVER

      MASTER OF THE VINEYARD

      A WEAVER OF DREAMS

      THE WHITE SHIELD

      THREADS OF GREY AND GOLD

      HAPPY WOMEN
        16 Illus.

      THE SHADOW OF VICTORY
        Cr. 8vo. $1.50 net

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        Cr. 8vo. $1.50 net

      THE MYRTLE REED YEAR BOOK
        $1.50 net

      THE BOOK OF CLEVER BEASTS
        Illustrated by Peter Newell. $1.50

      PICKABACK SONGS
        Words by Myrtle Reed. Music by Eva Cruzen Hart.
        Pictures by Ike Morgan. 4to. Boards, $1.50

    _Send for Descriptive Circular_




EXPLANATION


The only excuse the author and publishers have to offer for the
appearance of this book is that, so far as they know, there is no
other like it.




CONTENTS


                                                        PAGE
    The Philosophy of Breakfast                            1

    How to Set the Table                                   9

    The Kitchen Rubaiyat                                  15

    Fruits                                                20

    Cereals                                               39

    Salt Fish                                             58

    Breakfast Meats                                       72

    Substitutes for Meat                                  87

    Eggs                                                  91

    Omelets                                              111

    Quick Breads                                         121

    Raised Breakfast Breads                              147

    Pancakes                                             160

    Coffee Cakes, Doughnuts, and Waffles                 173

    Breakfast Beverages                                  186

    Simple Salads                                        191

    One Hundred Sandwich Fillings                        228

    Luncheon Beverages                                   235

    Eating and Dining                                    241

    Thirty-five Canapes                                  244

    One Hundred Simple Soups                             252

    Fifty Ways to Cook Shell-Fish                        281

    Sixty Ways to Cook Fish                              297

    One Hundred and Fifty Ways to Cook Meat and
      Poultry                                            316

    Twenty Ways to Cook Potatoes                         366

    One Hundred and Fifty Ways to Cook Other
      Vegetables                                         373

    Thirty Simple Sauces                                 423

    One Hundred and Fifty Salads                         431

    Simple Desserts                                      459

    Index                                                531




The Myrtle Reed Cook Book




THE PHILOSOPHY OF BREAKFAST


The breakfast habit is of antique origin. Presumably the primeval man
arose from troubled dreams, in the first gray light of dawn, and set
forth upon devious forest trails, seeking that which he might devour,
while the primeval woman still slumbered in her cave. Nowadays, it is
the lady herself who rises while the day is yet young, slips into a
kimono, and patters out into the kitchen to light the gas flame under
the breakfast food.

In this matter of breaking the fast, each house is law unto itself.
There are some who demand a dinner at seven or eight in the morning,
and others who consider breakfast utterly useless. The Englishman, who
is still mighty on the face of the earth, eats a breakfast which would
seriously tax the digestive apparatus of an ostrich or a goat, and
goes on his way rejoicing.

In an English cook-book only seven years old, menus for "ideal"
breakfasts are given, which run as follows:

"Devilled Drum-sticks and Eggs on the dish, Pigs Feet, Buttered
Toast, Dry Toast, Brown and White Bread and Butter, Marmalade and
Porridge."

"Bloaters on Toast, Collared Tongue, Hot Buttered Toast, Dry Toast,
Marmalade, Brown and White Bread and Butter, Bread and Milk."

"Pigeon Pie, Stewed Kidney, Milk Rolls, Dry Toast, Brown and White
Bread and Butter, Mustard and Cress, Milk Porridge."

And for a "simple breakfast,"--in August, mind you!--this is
especially recommended:

"Bloaters on Toast, Corned Beef, Muffins, Brown and White Bread and
Butter, Marmalade, and Boiled Hominy."

An American who ate a breakfast like that in August probably would not
send his collars to the laundry more than once or twice more, but it
takes all kinds of people to make up a world.

Across the Channel from the brawny Briton is the Frenchman, who, with
infinitely more wisdom, begins his day with a cup of coffee and a
roll. So far, so good, but his _dejeuner a la fourchette_ at eleven or
twelve is not always unobjectionable from a hygienic standpoint. The
"uniform breakfast," which is cheerfully advocated by some, may be
hygienic but it is not exciting. Before the weary mental vision
stretches an endless procession of breakfasts, all exactly alike, year
in and year out. It is quite possible that the "no-breakfast" theory
was first formulated by some one who had been, was, or was about to be
a victim of this system.

The "no-breakfast" plan has much to recommend it, however. In the
first place, it saves a deal of trouble. The family rises, bathes
itself, puts on its spotless raiment in leisurely and untroubled
fashion, and proceeds to the particular business of the day. There are
no burnt toast, soggy waffles, muddy coffee, heavy muffins, or pasty
breakfast food to be reckoned with. Theoretically, the energy supplied
by last night's dinner is "on tap," waiting to be called upon. And,
moreover, one is seldom hungry in the morning, and what is the use of
feeding a person who is not hungry?

It has been often said, and justly, that Americans eat too much.
Considering the English breakfast, however, we may metaphorically pat
ourselves upon the back, for there is no one of us, surely, who taxes
the Department of the Interior thus.

"What is one man's meat is another man's poison" has been held
pointedly to refer to breakfast, for here, as nowhere else, is the
individual a law unto himself. Fruit is the satisfaction of one and
the distress of another; cereal is a life-giving food to one and a
soggy mass of indigestibility to some one else; and coffee, which is
really most innocent when properly made, has lately taken much blame
for sins not its own.

Quite often the discomfort caused by the ill-advised combination of
acid fruit with a starchy cereal has been attributed to the clear,
amber beverage which probably was the much-vaunted "nectar of the
gods." Coffee with cream in it may be wrong for some people who could
use boiling milk with impunity.

For a woman who spends the early part of the day at home, the omission
of breakfast may be salutary. When hunger seizes her, she is within
reach of her own kitchen, where proper foods may be properly cooked,
but for a business woman or man the plan is little less than suicidal.
Mr. Man may, indeed, go down town in comfort, with no thought of food,
but, no later than noon, he is keenly desirous of interior decoration.
Within his reach there is, usually, but the lunch counter, where, in
company with other hapless humans, he sustains himself with leathery
pie, coffee which never met the coffee bean, and the durable doughnut
of commerce. The result is--to put it mildly--discontent, which
seemingly has no adequate cause.

It is better, by far, for Mr. Man to eat a breakfast which shall
contain the proteids, carbohydrates, phosphates, and starches that he
will require during the day, and omit the noon luncheon entirely,
except, perhaps, for a bit of fruit. Moreover, a dainty breakfast,
daintily served, has a distinct aesthetic value. The temper of the
individual escorted to the front door by a devoted spouse has more
than a little to do with the temper of the selfsame individual who is
let in at night by the aforesaid D. S.

Many a man is confronted in the morning by an untidy, ill-cooked
breakfast, a frowsy woman and a still frowsier baby, and, too often,
by querulous whinings and complaints.

The ancient Britons had a pleasing arrangement which they called "The
Truce of God." By this, there was no fighting whatever, no matter what
the provocation, between sunset on Wednesday and sunrise on Monday.
This gave time for other affairs, and for the exercise of patience,
toleration, and other virtues of the same ilk.

Many a household might take a leaf from this book to good advantage.
Settle all differences after dinner, since at no time of the day is
man in more reasonable mood, and ordain a "Truce of God" from dawn
until after dinner.

No dinner, however beautifully cooked and served, no fine raiment,
however costly and becoming, can ever atone, in the memory of a man,
for the wild and untamed morning which too often prevails in the
American household. His mind, distraught with business cares, harks
back to his home--with pleasure? None too often, more's the pity.

Some one has said that, in order to make a gentleman, one must begin
with the grandfather. It is equally true that a good and proper
breakfast begins the night before--or, better yet, the morning before.

Careful, systematic planning in advance lightens immeasurably the
burden of housekeeping, and, many a time, makes the actual work
nothing but fun. Those who have tried the experiment of planning meals
for the entire week are enthusiastic in praise of the system. It
secures variety, simplifies marketing, arranges for left-overs, and
gives many an hour of peace and comfort which could not be had
otherwise.

Even if a woman be her own maid, as, according to statistics,
eighty-five per cent. of us are, a dainty, hygienic, satisfying
breakfast is hers and her lord's for little more than the asking. By
careful preparation in advance, the morning labor is reduced to a
minimum; by the intelligent use of lists and memoranda, the weary and
reluctant body is saved many an unnecessary step.

An alarm clock of the "intermittent" sort insures early rising, a dash
of cold water on the face is a physical and mental tonic of the most
agreeable kind, and one hour in the morning is worth two at night, as
the grandmothers of all of us have often said.

Fruit, usually, may be prepared for serving the night before, and will
be improved by a few hours in the refrigerator. Cereals should be
soaked over night in the water in which they are to be cooked, and a
few hours' cooking in the afternoon will injure very few cereals
destined for the breakfast table the next morning. Codfish balls and
many other things will be none the worse for a night's waiting; the
table can be set, and everything made ready for a perfect breakfast,
which half an hour of intelligent effort in the morning will readily
evolve.

A plea is made for the use of the chafing-dish, which is fully as
attractive at the breakfast table as in the "wee sma' hours" in which
it usually shines; for a white apron instead of a gingham one when "my
lady" is also the cook; for a crisp, clean shirt-waist instead of an
abominable dressing-sack; for smooth, tidy hair, instead of unkempt
locks; for a collar and a belt, and a persistent, if determined,
cheerfulness.

In the long run, these things pay, and with compound interest at that.
They involve a certain amount of labor, a great deal of careful
planning, eternal getting-up when it is far more pleasant to abide in
dreamland, quite often a despairing weariness, if not a headache, and
no small draft upon one's power of self-denial and self-sacrifice.

But he who goes in the morning from a quiet, comfortable, well-ordered
house, with a pleasant memory of the presiding genius of his
hearthstone, is twice the man that his fellow may be, whose wife
breakfasts at ten in her bed, or, frowsy and unkempt, whines at him
from across a miserable breakfast--twice as well fitted for the
ceaseless grind of an exhausting day in the business arena, whence he
returns at night, footsore, weary, and depressed, to the four walls
wherein he abides.

    "How far that little candle throws its beams!
    So shines a good deed in a naughty world."

To some, this may seem an undue stress laid upon the material side of
existence, but the human animal needs animal comforts even more than
his brother of forest and field, and from such humble beginnings great
things may come, not the least of which is the fine, spiritual essence
of a happy home.




HOW TO SET THE TABLE


Having said so much, we proceed, not to our mutton, as the French have
it, but to our breakfast, in which the table plays no small nor
unimportant part.

There are rumors that the pretty and sensible fashion of doilies on
the bare table is on the wane, but let us hope these are untrue, or,
if not, that some of us may have the courage of our convictions and
continue to adhere to a custom which has everything in its favor and
nothing against it.

In the absence of handsome top of oak or mahogany, the breakfast
cloths, fringed or not, as one likes, which are about a yard and a
quarter square, are the next best thing. Asbestos mats, under the
cloth, protect the table from the hot dishes. Failing these, fairly
satisfactory substitutes are made from thin white oil-cloth, between
two layers of canton flannel, "fur side outside," and quilted on the
machine. Grass table-mats are also used, but always under cloth or
doily. Canton flannel, quilted, three layers to a mat, is easily
washed, and furnishes a great deal of protection.

Breakfast, most assuredly, is not dinner, and there should be a
distinct difference in the laying of the table. The small doilies are
easily washed, and fresh ones are possible every morning--an assured
gain in the way of daintiness.

Let us suppose that we have a handsome table-top, and an unlimited
supply of doilies, tray-cloths and centrepieces. First the centrepiece
goes on, exactly in the centre, by the way, and not with a prejudiced
leaning to one side or the other. On this belongs the pot of growing
fern, the low jar containing a few simple flowers, or a bowl of fruit,
decorated with green leaves, if green leaves are to be had.

At each place the breakfast doily, nine or twelve inches square, a
small doily for the coffee cup, and another for the glass of water. At
the right of the plate, the small silver knife, sharp edge toward the
plate, the spoons for fruit and cereal; at the left, one fork, or two,
as needed, and the coffee spoon.

In front of the master of the house the small platter containing the
_piece de resistance_ will eventually be placed; in front of the
mistress of the mansion, the silver tray bearing the coffee
service--coffee-pot, hot-water pitcher, cream jug, milk pitcher, and
sugar bowl.

Breakfast napkins are smaller than dinner napkins, and the small
fringed napkins are not out of place. "Costly thy habit as thy purse
will buy" might well refer to linen, for it is the one thing in which
price is a direct guarantee of quality.

Satisfactory breakfast cloths and napkins are made of linen sheeting,
fringed, hemstitched, or carefully hemmed by hand, and in this way a
pretty cloth can be had for less money than in any other. The linen
wears well, washes beautifully, and acquires a finer sheen with every
tubbing. Insertions and borders of torchon or other heavy lace make a
breakfast cloth suitable for the most elaborate occasion, and separate
doilies may easily be made to match. The heavy white embroidery which
has recently come into favor is unusually attractive here.

Finger-bowls wait on the sideboard, to be placed after the fruit
course, or after breakfast. The rose-water, slice of lemon, geranium
leaves, and other finger-bowl refinements in favor for dinners are out
of place at breakfast. Clear, cool water is in better taste.

The china used at the breakfast table should be different from that
used at dinner. Heavier ware is permissible, and more latitude in the
way of decoration is given. Much of the breakfast china one sees in
the shops is distinctly cheerful in tone, and one must take care to
select the more quiet patterns. It is not pleasant to go to breakfast
with a fickle appetite, and be greeted by a trumpet-toned "Good
Morning" from the china.

Endless difference is allowed, however, and all the quaint, pretty
jugs, pitchers, and plates may properly be used at breakfast. One is
wise, however, to have a particular color scheme in mind and to buy
all china to blend with it. Blue and white is a good combination, and
is, perhaps, more suitable for the morning meal than anything else. As
a certain philosopher says: "The blue and white look so pretty with
the eggs!"

The carafe, muffin plate, platter, and all other bowls, platters,
plates, and pitchers not on the individual cover have each a separate
doily, with the protecting mat always under hot dishes. A well-set
table is governed by a simple law--that of precision. Dishes arranged
in an order little less than military, all angles either right or
acute, will, for some occult reason, always look well. Informality may
be given by the arrangement of the flowers, or by a flower or two laid
carelessly on the table. But one must be careful not to trifle too
much with this law of precision. Knives, forks, and spoons must all be
laid straight, but not near enough together to touch, and napkins and
dishes must be precisely placed, else confusion and riot will result.

The breakfast selected as a type consists of fruit, a cereal, salt
fish, or salt meat, or eggs, or omelets, hot bread of some kind, and
pancakes or waffles, or coffee cake, one dish from each group, and
coffee. Six dishes in all, which may be less if desired, but never
more. All six form a breakfast sufficiently hearty for a stone mason
or a piano mover; one or two give a breakfast light enough to tempt
those who eat no breakfast at all. For serving it are required small
and medium-sized plates, knives, forks, spoons, egg cups, platters,
service plates, cups and saucers, glasses, coffee-pot, pitchers, sugar
bowl, and cream jug, syrup pitcher, and fruit bowl.

Fruit is said to be "gold in the morning," and it is a poor breakfast,
indeed, from which it is omitted. Even in winter it is not hard to
secure variety, if time and thought be taken, for the dried fruits are
always in the market and by careful cooking may be made acceptable to
the most uncertain appetite.

Medical authorities recommend a glass of water taken the first thing
upon rising, either hot or cold as suits one best. A little
lemon-juice takes the "flat" taste from plain hot water, and clear,
cool water, not iced, needs nothing at all. This simple observance of
a very obvious hygienic rule will temper the tempestuous morning for
any one. One washes his face, his hands, his body--then why not his
stomach, which has worked hard a large part of the night, and is
earnestly desirous of the soothing refreshment of a bath?

To those carping critics who cavil at the appearance of the stomach
in a chapter entitled "How to Set the Table," we need only say that
the table is set for the stomach, and the stomach should be set for
the table, and anyway, it comes very near being a table of contents,
_n'est-ce pas_?




THE KITCHEN RUBAIYAT


    Wake, for the Alarm Clock scatters into Flight
    The variegated Nightmares of the Night;
      Allures the Gas into the Kitchen Range
    And pleads for Rolls and Muffins that are Light.

    Before the Splendor of the last Dream died
    Methought a Voice from out my Doorway cried:
      "When all the Breakfast is Prepared for him
    Why doth my lord within his Crib abide?"

    And, as the cat Purred, she who was Before
    Within the Kitchen shouted: "Guard the Door!
      Else this new Bridget will have Flown the Coop
    And, once Departed, will Return no More!"

    All maids in sight the Wise One gladly Hires
    And one of them she Presently acquires,
      Yet toward the Bureau does not fail to Look
    Because all Maids, as well as Men, are liars.

    For Mary Ann has gone, with all her Woes,
    And Dinah, too, has fled--where, no one knows,
      But still a Bridget from the Bureau comes
    And many a Tekla of her Reference blows.

    Come, fill the Cup, and let the Kettle Sing!
    The Cream and Sugar and Hot Water bring!
      Methinks this fragrant liquid amber here
    Within the Pot, is pretty much the Thing.

    Each Morn a thousand Cereals brings, you say?
    Yes, but where leaves the Food of Yesterday?
      And this same Grocer man that sells us Nerve
    Shall take Pa's Wheat and Mother's Oats away.

    For lo, my small Back Yard is thickly Strown
    With Ki-Tee-Munch, Chew-Chew, and Postman's Own
      Where Apple-Nuts and Strength have been Forgot--
    Ah, how these Papers by the Winds are Blown!

    The tender Waffle hearts are Set upon
    Is either Crisp or Soggy, and Anon
      Like Maple Syrup made of corn and Cobs
    Lasts but a scant Five Minutes, and is Gone.

    I often think that never gets so Red
    My flower-like Nose as when I've just been Fed
      And after Breakfast, in the Glass I look,
    And never Fail to Wish that I were dead.

    And this faint Sallow Place upon my Mien--
    How came it There? From that fair Coffee Bean?
      Ah, take the Glass away! Make Haste unless
    You want to see my Whole Complexion green.

    When I was Younger, I did oft Frequent
    The Married Bunch, and heard Great Argument
      About the Fearful Price of Eggs, and How
    To get a Dollar's Work out of a Cent.

    And when I asked them of their Recompense,
    What did they Get for Keeping Down Expense--
      Oh, many a cup of Coffee, Steaming Hot,
    Must drown the Memory of their Insolence!

    If I were Married 't would be my Desire
    To get up Every Morn and Build the Fire
      For fear my Husband should use Kerosene,
    And, without warning, be transported Higher.

    Ah, with the Coffee all my Years provide!
    Its chemicals may turn me green Inside,
      But all my Fears are Scattered to the Winds
    When o'er the fragrant Pot I can Preside.

    I blame our Mother Eve, who did mistake
    Her Job, and flirted Somewhat with the Snake,
      For all the Errors of the Flaky Roll,
    For all the Terrors of the Buckwheat Cake.

    A glass of Creamy Milk just from the Cow,
    Or Buttermilk, drawn from the Goat, I trow,
      And thou across the Festal Board from Me,
    A Six-Room Flat were Paradise enow!

    Some for a Patent Bread that will not Crumb,
    And nary Bite of Cereal for Some--
      Ah, take the Coffee! Let all else go by
    Nor heed the Thick White Fur upon the Tongue.

    Look to the Human Wrecks about us: lo,
    About their Indigestion how they Blow,
      And lay the Blame on Coffee, crystal Clear,
    Or say the Crisp Hot Muffin is their Foe!

    And those who chew and chew upon the Grain,
    Have got so used to Chewing, they are Fain
      To Dwell upon their Health Food in their Talk
    And presently their Neighbors go Insane.


FOOT-NOTES

1. The author began with the intention of adapting the entire Rubaiyat
to kitchen purposes, but thought better of it just in time to head off
the Lyric Muse, who was coming at full gallop, with her trunk.

2. Those who do not like The Kitchen Rubaiyat will doubtless be glad
there is no more of it.

3. Those who do like it can begin at the beginning and read it again.
The rest of it would be about like this installment, anyway.

P. S. If the demand is great enough, the rest of it may appear in
another book.

P. S. 2. The publisher of this book has an unalterable prejudice
against printing poetry, but he allowed The Kitchen Rubaiyat to slip
by without question.

P. S. 3. ?




FRUITS IN SEASON


    Apples                             All the year.
    Apricots                           July 20 to August 20.
    Bananas                            All the year.
    Blackberries                       July 1 to August 15.
    Cherries                           June 1 to July 15.
    Currants, Red and White            July 1 to August 15.
    Figs, dried                        All the year.
    Figs, bag                          October and November.
    Gooseberries                       July.
    Grapes, Concord                    August 20 to November 15.
      "     Malaga                     November to March.
      "     California                 December to March.
    Grapefruit                         October to July.
    Green Gage Plums                   August 1 to September 15.
    Huckleberries                      July and August.
    Melons, Musk, Water, Cantaloupe    July 15 to October 15.
    Oranges                            December to May.
    Peaches                            August and September.
    Pears                              August and September.
    Pineapples                         June to September.
    Plums, Blue                        September.
    Quinces                            September, October, and November.
    Rhubarb                            April to September.
    Raspberries, Black and Red         July and August.
    Strawberries                       May and June.
    Tangerines                         November to February.

The above table, of course, is only a rough outline, as seasons and
localities vary so much. The tendency, too, is to extend the season of
every fruit indefinitely, as transporting and refrigerating methods
improve. Fruit out of season is always expensive, and often unripe and
unsatisfactory. Fortunately, when it is at its best it is always
abundant and at the lowest price.

Among the dried fruits may be mentioned Prunelles, Apricots, Apples,
Blackberries, Cherries, Nectarines, Peaches, peeled and unpeeled,
Pears, Plums, Raspberries, Prunes, Figs, and Dates. Canned fruits
which may be used for breakfast, with proper preparation, are Pears,
Peaches, Apricots, Cherries, Plums, and Pineapples.

Dried fruits may be soaked over night in the water in which they are
to be cooked, and simmered slowly, until they are tender, with little
sugar or none at all. They may also be steamed, either with or
without sugar, omitting the soaking, until tender enough for a straw
to pierce. Combinations of dried fruits are often agreeable, and a few
raisins will sometimes add a pleasant flavor.

Canned fruits intended for breakfast should be drained and very
thoroughly rinsed in cold water, then allowed to stand for some hours
in a cool place.

Many of the fruits, both dried and fresh, combine well with cereals.
Care must be taken, however, to follow such acid fruits as Currants,
Cherries, Oranges, and Grapefruit, with meat or egg dishes, omitting
the cereal, as the starch and acid are very likely to fight with each
other when once inside, to the inconvenience of the non-combatant. A
fruit which for any reason tastes "flat" can be instantly improved in
flavor and tonic quality by a sprinkle of lemon-juice.

Below are given different ways of preparing fruit for the breakfast
table.


APPLES

I. When served whole, apples should be carefully washed and rubbed to
a high polish with a crash towel. Only perfect fruit should be served
in this way, and green leaves in the fruit bowl are especially
desirable. Fruit-knives are essential.

II. Pare, quarter, and core good eating apples, removing all
imperfections. Serve a few quarters on each plate, with or without
sugar. A sprinkle of cinnamon or lemon-juice will improve fruit which
has little flavor. A grating of nutmeg may also be used.

III. _A la Conde._--Pare, quarter, and core good cooking apples.
Arrange in rows in an earthen baking-dish, sprinkle with powdered
sugar and lemon-juice, pour a little water into the baking-dish, and
add a heaping tablespoonful of butter. Bake slowly, basting frequently
with the apple-juice and melted butter. When tender, take out, drain,
and cool, saving the juice. Serve with boiled rice or other cereal,
using the juice instead of milk.

IV. _A la Cherbourg._--Pare and core good cooking apples; halve or
quarter if desired. Cook slowly in a thin syrup flavored with
lemon-peel and a bit of ginger-root. Serve separately or with cereal.

V. _A la Fermiere._--Pare and core the apples and arrange in a
well-buttered baking-dish. Sprinkle slightly with sugar and cinnamon;
baste often with melted butter, and serve with boiled rice or other
cereal, using the juice instead of milk.

VI. _A la Francaise._--Core and then peel tart apples. Put into cold
water from half an inch to an inch in depth, sprinkle with sugar,
cover tightly, and cook very slowly on the back part of the range
till tender. Flavorings already noted may be added at pleasure. Skim
out the apples, reduce the remaining syrup one-half by rapid boiling,
pour over the apples, and cool. Serve cold, with or without cereal.

VII. _A la Ninon._--Sprinkle baked apples with freshly grated cocoanut
on taking from the oven. Serve on a mound of boiled rice with the milk
of the cocoanut.

VIII. _A la Religieuse._--Core cooking apples; score the skin deeply
in a circle all around the fruit. Sprinkle a little sugar in the
cores, and dissolve a little currant jelly in the water used for the
basting. Cook slowly, and baste once with melted butter. The peel is
supposed to rise all around the apple, like a veil--hence the name.

IX. _Baked._--Peel or not, as preferred. Sprinkle with melted butter
and sugar, baste now and then with hot water, and serve separately or
with cereal.

X. _Baked, with Bananas._--Core, draw a peeled and scraped banana
through each core, trimming the ends off even, and bake slowly,
basting with hot water, melted butter, and lemon-juice. The apples may
be peeled if desired. Serve separately, or with cereal.

XI. _Baked, with Cereal._--Pare or not, as preferred, but core. Fill
the centres with left-over cooked cereal and bake slowly. Butter,
lemon-juice, or any flavoring recommended before can be used to
advantage. Any quartered apples, baked or stewed, can be covered with
any preferred cereal, and served with sugar and cream.

XII. _Baked, with Cherries._--Core the apples, fill the centres with
pitted cherries, either sour or sweet, bake carefully, basting with
syrup and melted butter. The apples may be peeled or not. Take up
carefully, and serve separately, or with cereal.

XIII. _Baked, with Currants._--Fill the centres with currants, red or
white, and use plenty of sugar. Baste with hot water or melted butter.
May be served with cereal if enough sugar is used in baking.

XIV. _Baked, with Dates._--Wash and stone dates, fill the cores of
apples with them, sprinkle with powdered sugar and bake, basting with
butter, lemon-juice, and hot water. The apples may be peeled or not.

XV. _Baked, with Figs._--Wash the figs carefully, and pack into the
cores of apples. Bake, basting with lemon syrup and melted butter.
Serve separately or with cereal.

XVI. _Baked, with Gooseberries._--Cap and stem a handful of
gooseberries. Fill the cores of large, firm apples with them, using
plenty of sugar. Baste with melted butter and hot water. May be
served with cereal if plenty of sugar is used in cooking.

XVII. _Baked, with Prunes._--Select tart apples, and peel or not, as
preferred. Core and fill the centres with stewed prunes, stoned and
drained. Bake slowly, basting with the prune-juice, or with
lemon-juice, melted butter, spiced syrup, or hot water containing
grated lemon-peel and a teaspoonful of sherry. Two or three cloves may
be stuck into each apple, and removed after the apples are cold.
Serve, very cold, with cream; separately, or with a cereal.

XVIII. _Baked, with Quinces._--Fill the cores of sweet apples with
bits of quince and plenty of sugar. Bake slowly, basting with melted
butter and syrup. Serve separately or with cereal.

XIX. _Baked, with Spice._--Select very sour apples, and peel or not,
as preferred. Core, and stuff the cavities with brown sugar, putting
two whole cloves into each apple. Baste with hot water containing a
bit of grated lemon-peel and a teaspoonful of sherry, putting a
teaspoonful of butter into the liquor as it forms in the dish. Bake
slowly, covered, until the apples are very tender. Serve separately or
with a cereal. Cinnamon, or nutmeg, or a blade of mace may be used
instead of the cloves.

XX. _Boiled._--Boil slowly in a saucepan with as little water as
possible. Do not peel. When tender, lift out, add sugar to the water
in which they were boiled; reduce half by rapid boiling, pour over the
apples, and let cool. Currant-juice, lemon-juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, or
a suspicion of clove may be added to the syrup if the apples lack
flavor.

XXI. _Coddled._--Core, cut in halves, but do not peel. Lay in the
bottom of an earthen dish, sprinkle lightly with sugar, add a little
water, and cook very slowly on the top of the stove until tender.

XXII. _Crusts._--Cut stale bread in circles, lay half of a peeled and
cored apple on each piece. Bake carefully, basting with melted butter
and a little lemon-juice if desired. When the apples are done,
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and take from the oven. Serve either hot
or cold.

XXIII. _Dried._--Soak over night in water to cover, after washing
thoroughly; cook slowly until soft, sweeten, and flavor with lemon.
Raisins, dates, figs, or other dried fruits may be added at pleasure.

XXIV. _Fried._--Core, but do not pare. If very juicy, dredge with
flour and fry slowly in hot fat till tender. They are served with
pork, or, sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon, with cereals.

XXV. _Glazed._--Core tart apples. Fill the centres with cinnamon,
sugar, bits of butter, and a raisin or two. Bake slowly, basting with
lemon-syrup. When nearly done, brush with the beaten white of egg and
sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve separately or with cereal.

XXVI. _In Bloom._--Cook pared red apples in any preferred way, and
stew the skin separately, in a little water, until the color is
extracted. The tiniest bit of red vegetable coloring may be needed.
Strain this liquid, and pour it over the apples when done. Or, add
currant jelly to color the water in which the apples are boiled, or to
the water for basting pared baked apples.

XXVII. _In Casserole._--Arrange good cooking apples in an earthen
casserole. Cover with a thin syrup made of brown sugar, add a little
spice and a bit of orange- or lemon-peel. Bake, very slowly, tightly
covered. Serve cold from the casserole.

XXVIII. _In Crumbs._--Cut strips of stale bread to fit stone
custard-cups. Dip in milk, and arrange in the moulds. Fill the centres
with apple sauce, cover with a circle of the bread, and steam thirty
minutes. Serve cold, with cream.

XXIX. _In Rice-Cups._--Line buttered custard cups with cold boiled
rice. Fill the centres with apple sauce or cooked quartered apples,
mildly tart rather than sweet. Cover with more of the rice. Steam
half an hour and let cool in the cups. Turn out on chilled plates and
serve with cream. Cream may be used with any cooked apple, if the
Secretary of the Interior files no objections. Cereals, other than
rice, left over, can be used in the same way. A wreath of cooked apple
quarters around the base of each individual mould is a dainty and
acceptable garnish.

XXX. _Jellied._--Cut tart apples in halves, core, place in buttered
baking-dish, skin side down, measure the water and add enough barely
to cover; add twice as much sugar as water, cover and boil slowly till
the apples are tender. Skim out, drain, boil the syrup rapidly till
reduced one half; pour over the apples and let cool. Flavorings
referred to before can be added to the syrup if desired.

XXXI. _Mock Pineapple._--Arrange alternate slices of sweet apples and
oranges, peeled, on a chilled plate, one above the other. Sprinkle
with powdered sugar, pour over the orange-juice and serve immediately.

XXXII. _Sauce._--Peel, quarter, and core quick-cooking apples. Sweeten
slightly, and when very tender, rub through a sieve and let cool. Any
flavoring recommended before may be used.

XXXIII. _Snow._--Peel white-fleshed, firm apples, grate quickly on a
coarse grater, and serve in roughly piled heaps on small plates
immediately. Use sugar or not.

XXXIV. _Southern, Fried._--Core and cut in thick slices, but do not
peel. Dip in egg and crumbs and fry in ham or bacon fat and serve with
those meats.

XXXV. _Stewed._--Pare, core, and halve large cooking-apples. Put into
an earthen dish, cover with water, sprinkle with sugar, cover tightly,
and cook slowly. If flat in taste, sprinkle with lemon-juice,
cinnamon, or nutmeg.

XXXVI. _Stewed with Dates._--Add washed and stoned dates to stewed
apples when partially cooked, and finish cooking. Dried apricots,
fresh or dried cherries, rhubarb, figs, plums, dried peaches, pears,
or quinces, may be used in the same way.

XXXVII. _Stewed with Rice._--Boil rice as usual in boiling water,
adding a little salt. When partly done, add pared, cored, and
quartered quick-cooking apples. Finish cooking. Serve very cold with
cream and sugar. Flavorings noted above may be added at discretion.


APRICOTS

I. Wipe with a dry cloth and serve with fruit-knives. A green leaf on
each plate is a dainty fruit doily.

II. _Canned._--Drain, rinse in cold water, arrange on plates, and let
stand several hours before serving. Sugar or not, as desired. Save the
syrup to flavor syrup for pancakes, or to use for puddings, fritters,
etc.

III. _Dried._--Soak over night, cook very slowly in the water in which
they were soaked, adding very little sugar. Serve with cereal, or
separately.

IV. _Sauce._--Cook as above, and rub the fruit through a sieve. The
canned, drained, and freshened fruit may be used in the same way.


BANANAS

I. Serve in the skins with fruit-knives, one to each person.

II. Skin and scrape and serve immediately. People who cannot
ordinarily eat bananas usually find them harmless when the tough,
stringy pulp is scraped off.

III. _Baked._--Bake without peeling, basting with hot water and melted
butter occasionally. Let cool in the skins.

IV. _Baked._--Skin, scrape, and bake, basting with lemon-juice and
melted butter. Sprinkle with sugar if desired.

V. _Au naturel._--Slice into saucers, sprinkle with lemon-juice and
sugar.

VI. _With Sugar and Cream._--Slice, sprinkle with powdered sugar, pour
cream over, and serve at once.

VII. _With Oranges._--Slice, add an equal quantity of sliced oranges,
and sprinkle with sugar.

VIII. _With Cereal._--Slice fresh bananas into a saucer, sprinkle with
sugar, cover with boiled rice or with any preferred cereal.

IX. Equally good with sliced peaches.


BLACKBERRIES

Serve with powdered sugar, with or without cream. A tablespoonful of
cracked ice in a saucer of berries is appreciated on a hot morning.


BLUE PLUMS

See Green Gages.


CHERRIES

I. Serve very cold, with the stems on. A dainty way is to lay the
cherries upon a bed of cracked ice, and serve with powdered sugar in
individual dishes.

II. Pit the cherries, saving the juice, and serve in saucers with
sugar and plenty of cracked ice.

III. _Iced._--Beat the white of an egg to a foam. Dip each cherry into
it, then roll in powdered sugar, and set on a platter in the
refrigerator. Must be prepared overnight.

IV. _Crusts._--Butter rounds of stale bread, spread with pitted
cherries and their juice, sprinkle with sugar, and bake. Serve very
cold.


CURRANTS

Serve in cracked ice with plenty of sugar. These are also served iced,
and on crusts. See Cherries III and IV.


FIGS

May be served from the basket. This, of course, applies only to the
more expensive varieties, which are clean. The ordinary dried fig of
commerce must be washed many times, and is usually sweet enough
without adding more sugar.

II. _Steamed._--Set a plate of figs in a steamer over boiling water
until plump and soft, then set away to cool.

III. _Stewed._--Clean, soak, and cook slowly till tender in a little
water. Skim out, drain, sweeten the syrup slightly, reduce one half,
pour over the figs, and cool. A bit of vanilla or wine may be added to
the syrup.

IV. _With Cereal._--Cover a saucer of steamed or stewed figs with any
preferred cereal. Serve with cream if desired.

V. _In Rice-Cups._--See Apples XXIX.

VI. _In Crumbs._--See Apples XXVIII.


GOOSEBERRIES

These berries must be stewed in order to be acceptable. The fruit,
after stewing, may be rubbed through a sieve fine enough to keep back
the seeds, or it may be baked on crusts. See Cherries IV.


GRAPES

This luscious fruit is at its best when served fresh from the vines,
with the bloom still on. Never wash a bunch of grapes if it can be
avoided. Serve with grape scissors to cut the bunches apart. People
who fear appendicitis may have the grapes squeezed from the skins and
the seeds afterwards removed. They are very nice this way, with sugar
and pounded ice.


GRAPEFRUIT

A good grapefruit will have dark spots, a skin which seems thin, will
be firm to the touch, and heavy for its size. To serve, cut crosswise,
and remove the white, bitter pulp which is in the core, and separate
the sections. Fill the core with sugar and serve cold. A little rum or
kirsch may be added just before serving, but, as George Ade said, "A
good girl needs no help," and it is equally true of a good grapefruit.
If anybody knows why it is called grapefruit, please write to the
author of this book in care of the publishers.


GREEN GAGES

Serve as they come, with the bloom on, or peel, pit, and serve with
cracked ice and powdered sugar.


HUCKLEBERRIES

Look the fruit over carefully. Nothing pleases a fly so much as to die
and be mistaken for a huckleberry. Serve with cracked ice, with sugar
or cream, or both.


MUSKMELONS

Keep on ice till the last moment. Cut crosswise, take out the seeds
with a spoon, and put a cube of ice in each half. Green leaves on the
plate are a dainty touch.


ORANGES

Serve with fruit-knives, or in halves with spoons--either the
orange-spoon which comes for that purpose, or a very heavy teaspoon.
Another way is to remove the peel, except a strip an inch wide at the
equator, cut at a division line and straighten out the peel, taking
care not to break off the sections. Or, the fruit may be peeled,
sliced, and served on plates with sugar.


PEACHES

Wipe with a dry cloth and serve with fruit-knives. Or, if you think
much of your breakfast napkins, peel and cut just before serving, as
they discolor quickly. Serve with cracked ice, or with cream. Hard
peaches may be baked, as apples are, and served cold with cream.
Stewed peaches may be served on crusts.


PEARS

Serve as they come, with fruit-knives. Hard pears may be baked or
stewed according to directions previously given.


PINEAPPLE

Peel, cut out the eyes, and shred from the core with a silver fork.
Sprinkle with sugar and keep on ice some hours before serving.
Pineapple is the only fruit known to have a distinct digestive value,
and it works most readily on starches. It combines pleasantly with
bananas.


PRUNELLES

These are soaked, and boiled in the water in in which they are soaked,
with the addition of a very little sugar. Dried apricots,
blackberries, cherries, nectarines, and prunes are cooked in the same
way. They may also be steamed and afterwards sprinkled with sugar.


PRUNES

These are no longer despised since the price has gone up, and the more
expensive kinds are well worth having. A bit of lemon-peel or spice
may flavor the syrup acceptably, and they are especially healthful in
combination with cereals, according to recipes previously given.


QUINCES

Peel, stuff the cores with sugar, and bake according to directions
given for apples. A little lemon may be used in the syrup for basting.


RASPBERRIES AND STRAWBERRIES

These delicious berries should not be washed unless absolutely
necessary, nor should they be insulted with sugar and cream. If very
sour, strawberries may be dipped in powdered sugar. Large, fine ones
are served with the stems and hulls on. Raspberries, if ripe, seldom
need sugar. Cracked ice is a pleasing accompaniment.


RHUBARB

I. Peel, cut into inch-lengths, and stew with plenty of sugar. Serve
cold.

II. Cut, but do not peel, boil five minutes, then change the water
and cook slowly with plenty of sugar till done.

III. _Baked._--Do not peel. Cut into inch-pieces, put into a buttered
baking-dish or stone jar, sprinkle plentifully with sugar, and bake
slowly. It will be a rich red in color.

IV. Cook on crusts. See Cherries IV.

V. Add a handful of seeded raisins to rhubarb cooked in any of the
above ways when it is about half done. Figs, dates, and other dried
fruits, used with rhubarb, make a combination pleasing to some.


TANGERINES

See Oranges.


WATERMELON

Like muskmelon, watermelon must be very thoroughly chilled. Serve in
slices from a platter or on individual plates, removing the rind
before serving, if desired; or cut the melon in half, slice off the
lower end so that it may stand firmly, and serve the pulp from the
shell with a silver spoon. Ice pounded to snow is a pleasant addition
to any fruit, when the thermometer is ninety-five or six in the shade.




CEREALS


So many breakfast foods are upon the market that it would be
impossible to enumerate all of them, especially as new ones are
appearing continually. Full and complete directions for cooking all of
them are printed upon the packages in which they are sold. It may not
be amiss to add, however, that in almost every instance, twice or
three times the time allowed for cooking would improve the cereal in
taste and digestibility.

The uncooked cereals are many. A wise housekeeper will use the
uncooked cereals when she has no maid. "A word to the wise is
unnecessary."

Pleasing variety in the daily menu is secured by getting a different
cereal each time. In this way, it takes about a year to get back to
the beginning again, and there is no chance to tire of any of them.

Cereals should always be cooked in a double boiler; and soaking over
night in the water in which they are to be cooked, where it is not
possible to secure the necessary time for long cooking, will prove a
distinct advantage. Leftover cereals should be covered with cold
water immediately, in the double boiler, and kept in a cool place
until the next day. Bring slowly to a boil, and cook as usual. In the
hot weather, cereals may be cooked the day before using, moulded in
custard-cups, and kept in the ice-box over night. They are very
acceptable when served ice-cold, and, if moulded with fruit, or served
with fruit on the same plate, so much the better.

Pearled wheat, pearled barley, and coarse hominy require five cupfuls
of water to each cup of cereal, and need from four to six hours'
cooking. Coarse oatmeal and fine hominy must be cooked from four to
six hours, but need only four cupfuls of water to each cup of cereal.
Rolled wheat and rolled barley are cooked two hours in three times as
much water as cereal; rice and rolled oats, with three times as much
water, will cook in one hour. Farina, with six cupfuls of water to
each cupful of cereal, also cooks in an hour; cerealine flakes cook in
thirty minutes, equal parts of water and cereal being used.

Salt must be added just before cooking begins. All cereals are richer
if a little milk is added to the water in which they are cooked.

To cook cereals in a double boiler, put the water into the inner
kettle, the outer vessel being from half to two thirds full, and when
it is boiling furiously, sprinkle in the cereal, a few grains at a
time, and not so rapidly as to stop the boiling. When cereals are
eaten cold, they require a little more liquid.


BOILED BARLEY

Wash the barley in several waters, cover with cold water; bring to a
boil, drain, cover with fresh boiling water, add a little salt, and
cook slowly for four hours.


BARLEY GRUEL

Wash half a cupful of pearled barley in several waters; put it into a
double boiler with eight cupfuls of water and half an inch of stick
cinnamon. Boil for two hours, strain, sweeten, and add two wine
glasses of port. Keep in a cool place and reheat when required. An
invaluable breakfast cereal for a convalescent.


STEAMED BARLEY

Cooked one cupful of pearled barley in a double boiler four hours,
with four cupfuls of water and a little salt. In the morning, add a
cupful of boiling water or milk, stir occasionally, reheat thoroughly,
and serve.


BREWIS

Dry bread in the oven so slowly that it is a light brown in color.
Crush into crumbs with the rolling-pin and sift through the
frying-basket. Measure the milk, salt it slightly, and bring to a
boil. Put in half as much of the dried crumbs. Boil five or ten
minutes, season with butter, pepper, and salt, and serve at once with
cream. It must be stirred all the time it is cooking. By omitting the
butter, it may be served with sugar. Brown, rye, graham, or corn bread
may be mixed with the white bread to advantage. The dried and sifted
crumbs of brown bread, when served cold with cream, taste surprisingly
like a popular cereal which etiquette forbids us to mention. This is a
good way to use up accumulated crumbs.


CORN-MEAL MUSH

The best meal comes from the South. It is white, moist, and coarse,
and is called "water ground." It is a very different proposition from
the dry, yellow powder sold in Northern groceries. For mush, use four
times as much water as meal. Salt the water, and sprinkle in the meal
very slowly when it is at a galloping boil. Boil an hour or more,
stirring frequently. A better mush is made by using half milk and half
water. Serve hot or cold with cream, or milk, and sugar. If wanted for
frying, wet a pan in cold water, pour in the hot mush, and let cool.


CORN AND WHEAT PORRIDGE

Half a cupful of corn-meal and half a cupful of flour. Make into a
batter with cold water and put into two cupfuls of boiling water.
Stir often and cook half an hour or more, then add four cupfuls of
boiling milk. Cook half an hour longer, stirring often. Serve hot or
cold, with cream and sugar.


CORN MUSH OR HASTY PUDDING

One cupful of corn-meal and one cupful of cold water. Mix and stir
into two cupfuls of salted boiling water. One half cupful of white
flour may be mixed with the meal. When the mush becomes thick, place
in a steamer and steam six hours. Rinse a pan with cold water, pour in
the mush, smooth the top with hand or spoon wet in cold water, and let
stand in a cold place twelve hours. This is used for frying. Other
cereals may be used in the same way. The sliced mush should be dredged
in flour and cooked in salt pork, ham, or bacon fat in the spider, or
in lard or butter if it is to be served with syrup.


HULLED CORN

This can occasionally be found in city markets, and is a delicious
cereal, eaten hot or cold with milk or cream or sugar.


COLD CEREAL WITH FRUIT

Pack left-over cereal into buttered custard cups, scoop out the
inside, fill with any sort of stewed or fresh fruit cut fine and
sweetened, cover the top with more cereal, and let stand some hours in
a cold place. At serving time turn out and dust with powdered sugar.
Cream may be used if it harmonizes with the fruit.


FRIED CREAM

Bring two cupfuls of milk to the boil, add two tablespoonfuls of
cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, and half a teaspoonful
of salt. Take from the fire and add one egg, well beaten, then pour
into a mould to cool. When cold, cut into slices, dredge with flour,
and fry.


FARINA

Soak over night. In the morning add boiling salted water to cover, and
cook half an hour, stirring constantly. Serve hot or cold with cream
and sugar, or with sugar and fruit.


APPLE FARINA

Stir one half cupful of farina into one quart of boiling salted water.
As soon as mush forms, stir in four tart apples, peeled, cored, and
sliced, and cook until the apples are soft. If the apples lack flavor,
a bit of orange- or lemon-peel, or any preferred spice may be added.
Serve hot or cold with cream or sugar. This will mould well.


FARINA BALLS

Half a cupful of farina, two cupfuls of milk, half a teaspoonful of
salt, a sprinkle of paprika, six drops of onion-juice, and the yolk of
one egg. Cook the farina in the salted milk for half an hour in a
double boiler. When it is stiff, add the egg and the seasoning.
Reheat, pour into a dish, and let cool. When cold, make into small
flat cakes, dip in egg, then in crumbs, and fry. These can be made
ready for frying the day before.


FAIRY FARINA

Mix three tablespoonfuls of farina with three quarters of a
teaspoonful of salt and half a cupful of milk, taken from two cupfuls.
Bring the rest of the milk to a boil with two cupfuls of water and
stir in the farina mixture. Cook slowly half an hour, turn into
individual moulds, and serve cold with sugar and cream.


JELLIED FARINA

One cupful of farina, sprinkled into two and a half cupfuls of boiled
salted milk. Stir till it thickens, then boil half an hour without
stirring. Serve hot or cold with sugar and cream. This will mould
nicely, and may be used with fruit.


FARINA MUSH

Boil one quart of salted milk, and, when boiling, add half a cupful of
farina, stirring constantly. Add a lump of butter and serve with cream
and sugar.


FLUMMERY

One and a half cupfuls of pinhead oatmeal, a saltspoonful of salt, a
tablespoonful of white sugar, two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower
water. Cover the oatmeal with cold water and let it soak twenty-four
hours, then drain off the water, cover again, and let steep
twenty-four hours longer. Strain through a fine sieve, add the salt,
and boil till as thick as mush, stirring constantly. Add the sugar and
the orange-flower water, pour into saucers, and serve hot or cold with
cream and sugar. This recipe dates back to the time of Queen
Elizabeth.


GRITS

One cupful of well-washed grits is slowly added to two cupfuls of
boiling water, and boiled one hour. Soaking over night is an
advantage. If the porridge is too thick, it may be thinned with milk.
Serve hot or cold with cream and sugar.


FRIED GRITS

Pack left-over grits into a wet mould. Turn out, slice, dredge in
flour, and fry.


OATMEAL GRUEL

Mix one tablespoonful of oatmeal in half a cupful of cold water, add
three cupfuls of milk, or of water, or of milk and water, and a little
salt. Cook half an hour in a double boiler, stirring often. Strain if
desired, and serve hot or cold. May be flavored with a bit of
lemon-peel, spice, or orange-flower water. For children and
convalescents.


OATMEAL GRUEL WITH EGG

One cupful of oatmeal and one teaspoonful of salt stirred into four
cupfuls of boiling water. Boil one hour, strain, and pour on to two
eggs well beaten. Reheat until it thickens, and serve with cream and
sugar.


WHEAT GRUEL

Mix one teaspoonful of salt with half a cupful of flour, make into a
paste with a little cold water and cook in a double boiler till smooth
and thick. Thin with milk, if necessary. Strain and sweeten; serve
either hot or cold. May be flavored with spice, lemon-peel, or wine.


BOILED HOMINY

Stir one cupful of well-washed hominy into two quarts of boiling
water. Cook one hour. Use half milk and half water if preferred.


HOMINY BALLS

To a cupful of cold hominy add one tablespoonful of melted butter,
stir well, add enough milk to rub the hominy to a paste, add a
teaspoonful of sugar and one egg, unbeaten. Shape into small flat
balls, dredge with flour, dip in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and fry.
These may be prepared beforehand and kept in a cool place till ready
to fry.


FRIED HOMINY

Pack left-over hominy into a mould. When cold, slice, dredge with
flour, and fry, or dip in egg and crumbs and fry.


HOMINY WITH MILK

Soak hominy all night. In the morning cover with boiling salted water
and boil until very tender. Drain off the water, cover with milk, boil
up once more, and serve.


STEAMED HOMINY

Soak hominy over night in an equal measure of cold water. In the
morning add twice as much boiling salted water and boil fifteen
minutes, then put into a steamer and steam six hours.


HOMINY PORRIDGE

Soak a cupful of granulated hominy in four cupfuls of water over
night. Add a teaspoonful of salt, one cupful of milk, and boil one
hour in the morning.


CRACKED WHEAT MUSH

Butter a double boiler inside, put in four cupfuls of water and a
little salt. When boiling add one cupful of cracked wheat which has
been washed in several waters. Boil ten minutes, then simmer three
hours. Serve with sugar and cream.


GRAHAM FLOUR MUSH

Mix one cupful of graham flour with a teaspoonful of salt, and make it
into a paste with cold water. Mix gradually with four cupfuls of
boiling water. Boil half an hour, stirring constantly. Serve with
cream and sugar.


OATMEAL MUSH

Mix one cupful of coarse oatmeal with a little salt, sprinkle into
four cupfuls of boiling water. Boil fifteen minutes, stirring
constantly, in the double boiler. Cover and cook slowly three hours
longer.


RYE MUSH

One quart of boiling water, one teaspoonful of salt, five heaping
tablespoonfuls of rye meal. Sprinkle the meal into the boiling water,
stirring constantly, add the salt, bring to the boil once more, cover,
and cook slowly in the double boiler one hour and a half. Serve with
sugar and cream.


FRIED OATMEAL MUSH

Wet a pan or mould in cold water and pack into it left-over oatmeal.
Twelve hours later, turn out, cut into slices, dredge with flour and
fry, serving with a simple syrup if desired. Any left-over cereal
which does not contain fruit may be used in the same way.


GRAHAM MUSH WITH APPLES

Slice peeled and cored tart apples into graham mush prepared according
to the recipe previously given, as soon as it begins to boil.


MUSH CAKES

Season two cupfuls of left-over cereal with salt and pepper and a few
drops of onion-juice. Shape into small flat cakes with floured hands
and dredge with flour. Fry in ham or bacon fat and serve with those
meats.


MUSH BALLS

Add a tablespoonful of melted butter and two unbeaten eggs to two
cupfuls of hot corn-meal mush. Cool. Shape into small flat cakes,
dredge with flour, and fry brown. These may be prepared the day before
using.


VELVET MUSH

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a double boiler, add two cupfuls
of flour, and stir until it leaves the sides of the kettle; add five
cupfuls of milk, stirring constantly and bringing to the boil at each
cupful. Add a teaspoonful of salt, mix thoroughly, and serve with
sugar and cream.


COLD GRAHAM MUSH WITH FRUIT

Stir chopped dates or figs into graham mush made according to previous
directions, turn into a mould, and cool. The next morning, slice, and
serve with sugar and cream.


STEAMED OATMEAL

Add a quart of cold water and a teaspoonful of salt to a cupful of
oatmeal. Put in a steamer over a kettle of cold water, bring to the
boil gradually, and steam two hours after it begins to cook.


OATMEAL JELLY

Soak one cupful of oatmeal over night in cold water to cover deeply.
Add boiling salted water in the morning and boil several hours, adding
more water as needed. Do not stir any more than necessary. When every
grain is transparent and jelly-like, it is done. It is delicious
served cold, with fruit and sugar, or with sugar and cream.


CREAMED OATMEAL

Boil oatmeal for an hour and a half according to recipes previously
given. Rub through a sieve, cover with hot milk, and cook very slowly
half an hour longer. Serve with sugar and cream.


OATMEAL BLANC MANGE

Bring one quart of milk to the boil, add a teaspoonful of salt, and
stir in one cupful of oatmeal. Boil forty-five minutes, then add two
eggs well beaten just before removing from the fire. Serve hot or cold
with cream and sugar. A bit of grated lemon- or orange-peel, wine, or
spice may be added to the milk.


LIGHT OATMEAL

Cook oatmeal twenty-five minutes according to directions previously
given, then set the dish in a moderate oven for half an hour. The
grains will swell.


BAKED OATMEAL

The day before using, stir two cupfuls of oatmeal into two quarts of
boiling water, salted, and boil ten minutes. Turn into a buttered
earthen dish, cover, and bake slowly two hours. In the morning set the
dish into a pan of boiling water and put in the oven for forty-five
minutes.


MILK PORRIDGE

One tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth with half a cupful or more of
water. Add a cupful of boiling milk, a little salt and spice, and cook
ten minutes or more in the double boiler.


RICE PORRIDGE

One cupful of rice, washed in several waters, and one cupful of
oatmeal. Cook one hour in plenty of boiling salted water, and add a
heaping tablespoonful of butter before serving.


WHEATLET PORRIDGE

One cupful of wheatlet, two cupfuls of boiling water, and one
teaspoonful of salt. Cook slowly for an hour.


CREAMED OAT PORRIDGE

Soak two cupfuls of oatmeal in four cupfuls of water over night. In
the morning, strain and boil the water thirty minutes. Scald a pint
and a half of rich milk, thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed
smooth in a little cold milk, add to the water, with a teaspoonful of
butter and a half teaspoonful of salt. Boil up well and serve with
cream and sugar.


BOILED RICE

(Hop Sing's Recipe)

"Washee lice in cold water bellee muchee. Water boil all ready muchee
quick. Water shakee lice--no burn. Boil till one lice all rub away in
fingers. Put in pan all holee, pour over cold water bellee muchee, set
in hot oven, make dry, eatee all up."


BOILED RICE

(American Recipe)

Wash one cupful of rice in several waters. Sprinkle it, a little at a
time, into eight quarts of slightly salted water at a galloping boil.
Boil steadily for twenty minutes. Drain, toss carefully with a fork,
and dry ten minutes in a hot oven.


BOILED RICE WITH MILK

Cook as above until it has boiled ten minutes, then drain, cover with
boiling milk, and cook slowly ten minutes longer in a covered double
boiler. Uncover, and stand in a hot oven for a few minutes, stirring
occasionally with a fork.


RICE BALLS

One cupful of boiled rice, one half cupful of milk, one egg, one
tablespoonful of sugar, a pinch of salt, and a slight grating of
nutmeg or a sprinkle of cinnamon. Put the milk on to boil, add the
rice and seasoning. When it boils, add the egg, cook till thick, take
from the fire, and cool. Form in to small flat cakes, dip in egg and
crumbs, and fry. These may be prepared beforehand.


STEAMED RICE

Wash a small cupful of rice and put into a double boiler with three
cupfuls of milk and a pinch of salt. Cook until creamy, add a
teaspoonful of butter and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Fruit may be
added.


SAMP

Cover the samp with boiling water, boil ten minutes, then drain, rinse
in cold water, cover with fresh boiling water and a little salt. Cook
slowly six hours, adding fresh boiling water as needed. Serve hot or
cold with cream and sugar.


CREAM TOAST

Dip slices of toast in boiling water and set into the oven. Stir one
heaping tablespoonful of corn-meal into four cupfuls of boiling salted
milk, and add two tablespoonfuls of butter. When the milk thickens,
stir in the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, boil up
again, pour over the toast, keep in the oven five minutes longer and
serve.


MILK TOAST

Lay slices of toast in cereal bowls, spread with butter, sprinkle with
salt and pepper, pour boiling milk over and serve immediately.


SOFT TOAST

Dip crisp slices of toast for a moment in boiling salted water, pour
over melted butter, set in the oven a moment and serve with cream.


CRUSHED WHEAT WITH RAISINS

Add a handful of stoned and cleaned raisins to crushed wheat mush made
according to recipe previously given, and as soon as it begins to
boil. Raisins are a healthful and agreeable addition to almost any
cereal.


COLD CRACKED WHEAT

Add half a teaspoonful of salt to three cupfuls of boiling water, stir
in half a cupful of cracked wheat. Cook uncovered till the water has
almost disappeared, then add three cupfuls of hot milk. Cover and cook
until the wheat is soft, then uncover and cook until the wheat is
almost dry. Stir carefully now and then while cooking. Turn into
individual moulds to harden, and serve cold with sugar and cream.




SALT FISH


With very, very few exceptions, fish and meats other than salt are not
suitable for breakfast. So many delicious preparations of these are
possible, however, that no one need lament the restriction which
general use has made. The humble and lowly codfish may be made into
many a dainty tidbit,--to make no invidious distinction,--and, for
some occult reason, the taste craves salt in the morning.


BROILED BLOATERS

Scrape and clean the fish, wipe dry and split, laying flat upon a
buttered gridiron. Broil about six minutes, turning frequently. When
brown, pour over melted butter. Serve with lemon quarters and parsley.


YARMOUTH BLOATERS

See Potomac Herring.


CODFISH BALLS

Cut into inch pieces a heaping cupful of salt codfish. Remove the
bones, skin, and put into an earthen dish. Pour boiling water on and
keep hot two hours. Pour off the water, cool, and shred the fish with
the fingers. Add a heaping cupful of hot mashed potatoes. Mix a
teaspoonful of flour with a heaping tablespoonful of butter, add three
tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and cook until thick. Season with
salt and pepper, mix with the fish and potato, and with floured hands
form into eight small flat cakes. Dredge with flour and set away to be
fried the following morning.


CODFISH BALLS--II

Two cupfuls of freshened and shredded fish, two cupfuls of sliced raw
potatoes, one tablespoonful of butter, half a cupful of cream or milk,
two eggs, and a sprinkle of white pepper. Put the potatoes in a pan,
spread the fish on top, cover with cold water, and boil until the
potatoes are done. Drain, mash together, then add the butter, pepper,
milk, and beaten egg. Beat until very light. Shape into round balls
the size of small apples, dredge in flour, and fry until brown in deep
fat.


CODFISH BALLS--III

Prepare as Codfish Balls II, but use twice as much potato as fish.


CODFISH BALLS A LA BURNS

Make codfish balls into flat cakes and just before serving, put a
poached egg on each.


PICKED-UP CODFISH

Pour boiling water on a cupful of salt codfish which has been shredded
and had the bones removed. When the water cools, pour it off and cover
with fresh boiling water. Drain again when the second water cools.
Blend a tablespoonful of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, add a
cupful of milk, and cook, stirring constantly, until thick. Add the
codfish and a teaspoonful of finely minced parsley. Serve on toast and
garnish with hard-boiled egg cut in slices. Sprinkle with black
pepper.


CREAMED CODFISH

Two cupfuls of shredded codfish, three cupfuls of milk, yolk of one
egg, one tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, two
quarts of water, pepper, and salt. Cover the fish with the water and
set it over a slow fire. When it boils, drain it and cover with the
milk. Bring to a boil again. Have the butter and flour rubbed smooth
with a little cold milk and add to the boiling milk. Stir steadily
till it thickens, then add the beaten yolk of the egg, and cook five
minutes longer. Season with pepper. A little minced parsley may be
added. Half an hour before the fish is shredded it should be put to
soak in cold water, unless it is preferred very salt.


CREAMED ROAST CODFISH

Brush the salt from a whole salted cod with a stiff brush. Place in a
baking-pan and put in a hot oven until brown and crisp. Take out, lay
on a board, and pound with a potato-masher till thoroughly bruised and
broken. Place in the baking-pan, cover with boiling water, and soak
twenty minutes. Drain, place on a platter, dot with butter, and put
back into the oven till the butter sizzles. Take from the oven, pour
over a cupful of cream, garnish with parsley, and serve.


CODFISH A LA MODE

Pick up a cupful of salt cod very fine, and freshen it. Mix with two
cupfuls of mashed potato, two cupfuls of cream or milk, and two
well-beaten eggs. Add half a cupful of melted butter and a little
black pepper. Mix thoroughly, pile roughly in an earthen baking-dish
or casserole, and bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. If it does
not brown readily, brush the top with melted butter for the last five
minutes of cooking.


NEW ENGLAND SALT COD

Cut the fish in squares and soak over night. In the morning drain and
rinse, cover with fresh boiling water, and simmer till tender. Spread
on a platter and put in the oven. Make a drawn-butter sauce of one
tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour cooked till
the mixture leaves the pan. Add one cupful of cold water, and stir
constantly till the sauce is thick and smooth and free from lumps.
Pour over the cod and serve. Minced parsley, a squeeze of lemon-juice,
or a hard-boiled egg chopped fine may be added to the sauce.


BOILED SALTED COD WITH EGG SAUCE

Chop fine a pound of salted cod that has been freshened, boiled, and
cooled. Mix a heaping teaspoonful of corn-meal with one cupful of
milk, and stir over the fire until it thickens, then add one cupful of
mashed potatoes, two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful
of minced parsley, and two well-beaten eggs. Let it get very hot. Make
the drawn-butter sauce with the egg in it, given in the recipe for New
England Salt Cod, and serve with the sauce poured over.


SALTED COD WITH BROWN BUTTER

Freshen the fish for twenty-four hours. Place over the fire in cold
water and bring slowly to a boil. Put a little butter and a few
sprigs of parsley in a frying-pan. Skim out the fish and put on a
platter in the oven. When the butter is brown, pour over the fish and
serve with lemon-quarters and fresh parsley.


CODFISH CUTLETS

Use the mixture for Codfish Balls II. Shape into cutlet form,--small
tin moulds come for the purpose,--dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in
deep fat. Stick a piece of macaroni in the small end of the cutlet,
and garnish with a paper frill. Serve with lemon and parsley.


BOILED SALT CODFISH

Select a piece of cod that has been boned. Brush the salt from it with
a stiff brush and broil under the gas flame until brown. Lay in a
baking-pan and pour over boiling water to cover. Let stand ten
minutes, drain, and repeat the process. Drain, put on a hot platter,
pour over melted butter, sprinkle with pepper and minced parsley.


FLAKED SALT CODFISH

Soak two pounds of fish over night. In the morning scrub it well,
cover with slices of onion, pour boiling water over, and let it soak
till the water is cool. Skim out, wipe, and broil. Put into a platter,
break with a fork, and pour over a drawn-butter sauce seasoned with
pepper, parsley, and lemon-juice. Keep in a hot oven five minutes
before serving.


CODFISH PUFF

Make the mixture for Codfish Balls II. Add the whites of two eggs
beaten to a stiff froth, folding them in lightly. Butter a stoneware
platter, spread the puff upon it, and bake in a hot oven till well
puffed and browned. Or, cook in a buttered frying-pan till a brown
crust has formed, then fold like an omelet.


CREAMED COD WITH EGG SAUCE

Freshen, boil, and drain, according to directions previously given.
Arrange on a platter and cover with cream sauce, which has minced
parsley and chopped hard-boiled eggs mixed with it.


ESCALLOPED CODFISH

Make a Codfish Puff, sprinkle with grated cheese, and bake brown.


FINNAN HADDIE A LA DELMONICO

Make a cream sauce, using two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of
flour; cook till they bubble, add a pint of milk, and stir till thick
and smooth. Add a pound of Finnan Haddie flaked, and the yolks of two
eggs, well beaten, three hard-boiled eggs cut fine, and a
tablespoonful of strong cheese, grated. Season with black pepper, heat
thoroughly, and serve.


FINNAN HADDIE A LA MARTIN

Make the cream sauce, add the flaked Finnan Haddie, according to the
recipe for Finnan Haddie a la Delmonico, add one half-cupful of
shredded green peppers, let boil up once, and serve on toast.


FINNAN HADDIE FISH BALLS

Prepare as Codfish Balls II.


BROILED FINNAN HADDIE

Parboil, drain, wipe, then skin. Broil, pour over melted butter,
sprinkle with pepper and minced parsley. Serve with lemon quarters.


PICKED-UP FINNAN HADDIE

Cut the fish in convenient pieces for serving. Cover with boiling
water, boil five minutes, drain, and rinse in fresh boiling water.
Arrange on a platter, dot with butter, put in the oven, and when the
butter sizzles, serve.


CREAMED ROAST FINNAN HADDIE

See Creamed Roast Codfish.


BROILED FINNAN HADDIE--II

Soak in cold water half an hour, and in boiling water ten minutes.
Wipe dry, marinade in oil and lemon-juice, and broil as usual.


BAKED SMOKED HADDOCK

Put the haddock into a baking-pan, cover with boiling water, drain,
dot with butter, sprinkle with black pepper, and bake in a hot oven
for ten minutes. Serve very hot.


BROILED SMOKED HADDOCK

Rub with butter, dredge with flour, and broil over clear coals, or
under a gas flame.


FRIED SMOKED HADDOCK

Cover with olive oil and soak over night. Skim out and fry brown in
the oil. Pepper well and serve at once with lemon quarters and a
garnish of parsley.


HERRING BALLS

Partly boil bloaters or herrings, skin, add an equal bulk of mashed
potatoes made from baked potatoes. Add a lump of butter and enough
cream to soften it. Form into balls, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in
deep fat.


POTOMAC HERRING

Those having roe are preferable. Put into a frying-pan with boiling
water to cover, boil five minutes, drain, add a lump of butter, and
return to the fire. When it melts, and the fish is well covered with
it, serve.


KIPPERED HERRING

See Potomac Herring.


BROILED SMOKED HERRING

Soak over night. Pour boiling water over it in the morning; when the
water cools, plunge it into ice water for five minutes, wipe dry, and
broil under a gas flame.


BROILED SALT MACKEREL

Wash in several waters, remove the head and part of the tail. Scrape
the thin black skin from the inside. Put the fish in a pan of cold
water, skin side up, over night at least, and, if very salt, by four
o'clock in the afternoon. In the morning wash in fresh cold water,
wipe dry on a clean cloth, rub with melted butter, sprinkle with
pepper, and broil carefully. It must be watched every moment, as it
burns easily. When brown, serve on a hot platter, dot the fish with
bits of butter, and garnish with parsley and lemon quarters.


CREAMED SALT MACKEREL

Freshen according to directions previously given. Put in cold water,
bring to a boil, then drain. Pour over it half a cupful of cream. Roll
a piece of butter the size of an egg in flour and add to the cream.
Let boil up once and serve.


BOILED SALT MACKEREL

Freshen according to directions previously given, rinse thoroughly.
Tie in a cloth, put into a kettle of cold water, bring slowly to the
boil, and cook half an hour. Remove the cloth, take out the backbone,
and pour over melted butter and half a cupful of cream. Sprinkle with
black pepper and garnish with parsley.


BOILED SALT MACKEREL, CREAMED

Prepare as above. Heat a cupful of milk to the boil. Stir into it a
teaspoonful of cornstarch made smooth with a little cold milk. When it
thickens, add two tablespoonfuls of butter, and a little pepper, salt
and minced parsley. Beat an egg very light, pour the sauce gradually
over it, reheat for about a minute. Pour over the fish and garnish
with slices of hard-boiled eggs.


BAKED SALT MACKEREL

Freshen according to directions previously given. Put into a
baking-pan and pour on boiling water to cover. When the water cools,
drain. Cover the fish with dots of butter, pour over half a cupful of
cream or milk, and bake till brown.


FRIED SALT MACKEREL

Freshen according to directions previously given, soaking a full
twenty-four hours and changing the water frequently. In the morning,
drain, wipe dry, dredge with flour, and fry brown in butter. Garnish
with lemon quarters and parsley.


BOILED SALT MACKEREL--II

Freshen, and boil in water made very acid with lemon-juice. Serve with
melted or drawn butter.


BROILED SALT MACKEREL--II

Freshen, wipe dry, and soak for an hour in French dressing, made of
three tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and one of lemon-juice or tarragon
vinegar. Broil as usual.


BROILED SALT SALMON

Soak the salmon twenty-four hours in cold water, changing the water
frequently. Drain, wipe dry, rub with butter, and broil over a clear
fire. Serve with melted butter. Garnish with lemon quarters and
parsley.


BROILED SMOKED SALMON

Rub with butter and broil with the flesh side nearest the fire. Serve
on a hot platter with lemon quarters, melted butter, and parsley.


BROILED KIPPERED SALMON

Cut the salmon into strips, rub very lightly with butter, sprinkle
with pepper, and broil as usual.


FRIED KIPPERED SALMON

See Fried Smoked Haddock.


BROILED SMOKED SALMON

Wash a piece of smoked salmon in three or four waters, parboil fifteen
minutes. Skim out, wipe dry, rub with butter, and broil. Cover with
melted butter, sprinkle with pepper and minced parsley, and garnish
with lemon quarters.


FRIED SMOKED SALMON

Wash and parboil the salmon, drain, wipe, dip in egg and crumbs, and
fry. Serve with lemon quarters and parsley.

       *       *       *       *       *

Roughly speaking, the recipes for salt fish are interchangeable. A
method of cooking recommended for one will be found equally good for
some of the others.

Salt fish left-overs may be used in hash, scrambles, omelets or
ramekin dishes, or reheated, rubbed to a paste, and served on toast,
with a poached egg on each slice.




BREAKFAST MEATS


BEEF BALLS

One cupful of cooked chopped beef, one cupful of cold mashed potatoes,
half a cupful of milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and one egg. Put
the milk and butter in the frying-pan; when it boils up, add the beef
and potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, then add the egg, well
beaten, and take from the fire. Let cool. When stiff, shape into small
flat cakes, dip in egg and bread crumbs, and put in a cool place. Fry
in hot fat for three minutes. These can be prepared beforehand.


BEEF HASH WITHOUT POTATOES

Mince the beef, season with grated onion, salt, and pepper. Reheat in
the beef gravy, or in hot water, adding a little butter. Serve on
toast. Shredded green pepper may be added.


FRIZZLED BEEF

Have dried beef cut very thin. Cover with cold water to which a small
pinch of soda has been added, and bring gradually to the boil. Drain,
add a lump of butter, and cook till the edges of the beef curl. Serve
on slices of buttered toast with poached or fried eggs laid over the
beef.


BEEF A LA NEWPORT

Prepare Creamed Dried Beef according to recipe elsewhere given, using
the egg to thicken. Add half a cupful of stewed and strained tomatoes
and a tablespoonful of grated cheese just before taking from the fire.
Heat thoroughly and serve at once on toast.


CORNED BEEF HASH

Equal parts of cooked corn beef and cold potatoes, cut fine, or use
more potato than meat if desired. Season with grated onion, pepper and
salt, and a little butter, and heat thoroughly. A green pepper,
shredded, is an invaluable addition to corned beef hash.


CORNED BEEF HASH A LA DELMONICO

Prepare as above, using the green pepper. Spread the hot hash thickly
on thin slices of buttered toast, slip a poached egg on to each piece,
sprinkle with pepper, salt, and minced parsley.


CREAMED DRIED BEEF

Prepare as directed for Frizzled Beef, having the beef cut into very
small pieces. Make a cream sauce of one tablespoonful of butter, two
tablespoonfuls of flour, and two cupfuls of milk. Season with salt and
pepper, and when smooth and thick add the cooked beef. A well-beaten
egg added just before taking from the fire is an improvement. Serve on
toast.


BACON AND EGGS

Have the bacon cut very thin. The colder it is, the better. Remove the
rind and cook in a hot frying-pan until crisp. Skim out the bacon,
break the eggs into the fat one at a time, and cook slowly, dipping
the fat over the eggs occasionally with a spoon. Eggs must always be
cooked at a moderate temperature. Serve on a hot platter, the eggs in
the centre, the bacon for a garnish.


BROILED BACON

Broil on a gridiron, turning constantly. It will cook in three
minutes. Perfectly cooked bacon is clear and crisp.


BREADED BACON

Dip slices of bacon in corn-meal and broil or fry. A Southern method.


BACON AND MUSH

Cut slices of cold corn-meal mush, dredge in flour, and fry brown.
Serve with a strip of fried or broiled bacon on each slice.


BACON FRAISE

Make a batter of four eggs, half a cupful of milk, and a teaspoonful
of flour. Fry some thin slices of bacon till transparent. Dip them in
the batter, spread on a stoneware platter, cover with the remaining
batter, and put into a moderate oven till a golden brown.


BACON A LA CREME

Fry thin slices of bacon as usual, place on a platter, and put into
the oven to keep warm. Make a cream sauce, using the fat in the pan
instead of butter. Pour over the bacon, sprinkle with minced parsley,
and serve at once.


CALF'S BRAINS

Soak in cold water, parboil, remove pipes and membranes, throw into
cold water, drain, wipe, and keep cool. They may be rubbed with melted
butter and fried or broiled, or dipped in egg and crumbs and fried or
broiled. Serve with a cream sauce or with a sauce of melted butter,
lemon-juice, and minced parsley.


CHICKEN HASH

Use cold cooked chicken and proceed according to directions previously
given. Cold turkey or tongue makes delicious hash. A shredded green
pepper will usually improve it. Any hash may be served on toast with a
poached egg on each slice.


FRIED HAM

Freshen a slice of ham a few moments in boiling water. Drain, wipe,
and fry slowly. Eggs may be served with it. See Bacon and Eggs.


FRIZZLED HAM

Prepare as above. When the ham is half done, sprinkle with flour and
fry brown. When brown, add a tablespoonful of made mustard to the
gravy, and boiling water enough to cover the ham. Simmer five minutes
and serve on a hot platter.


HAM AND POACHED EGGS

Prepare as directed above. Poach the eggs separately and serve on the
slices of ham.


BROILED HAM

Freshen in cold water, drain, wipe, and broil. May be breaded and
broiled on a buttered gridiron.


HAM BALLS

One cupful of cooked ham, finely chopped, one cupful of bread crumbs,
two cupfuls of cooked potatoes, mashed fine, a heaping tablespoonful
of butter, two eggs, and a dash of cayenne. Melt the butter and beat
all together until very light. Shape into small flat cakes, dip in egg
and crumbs, and fry brown. May be prepared beforehand.


HAM TOAST

Half a cupful of cold cooked ham, finely minced, half a teaspoonful of
anchovy paste, a bit of cayenne and pounded mace. Add half a cupful of
milk and an egg, well beaten. Stir till thick, take from the fire, and
spread thinly on dry buttered toast. A poached egg may be placed on
each slice.


HAM RECHAUFFE

Butter individual custard cups, fill three fourths full of minced ham
reheated in a cream sauce, break an egg into each cup, sprinkle with
crumbs, dot with butter, and bake till the egg is set. Tongue,
chicken, turkey, or other meats may be used in this same way.


HAM AND EGGS A L'AURORE

Mince cooked ham and reheat in a cream sauce, to which the shredded
whites of hard-boiled eggs have been added. Spread on buttered toast
and sprinkle with the sifted yolks of the eggs, rubbed through a
sieve.


KIDNEY BACON ROLLS

Season a cupful of bread crumbs with grated onion, salt and pepper,
and minced parsley. Moisten with egg well beaten. Spread the crumb
mixture over thin slices of bacon and wrap each slice of bacon around
a small kidney. Fasten with toothpicks or skewers. Put in a baking-pan
and bake in a hot oven until the bacon is crisp. Remove the skewers
and serve on a hot plate, garnished with parsley.


FRIED KIDNEYS

Cut in halves, skin, sprinkle with salt and red pepper, and fry one
minute in a spider, with no additional fat. Serve with dry toast.


KIDNEYS EN BROCHETTE

Cut the kidneys into small squares after parboiling and skinning.
String on small steel skewers with small squares of bacon alternating.
Broil or fry or cook in the oven, dredging with flour or not, as
preferred. If the bacon is not very fat, soak the kidneys in olive oil
a few moments before stringing. Serve on the skewers.


CRUMBED KIDNEYS

Parboil, drain, wipe, and split the kidneys, keeping them open with
skewers. Season with pepper and salt, brush with oil, roll in crumbs,
and broil, fry, or cook in a very hot oven. Make a sauce of melted
butter, lemon-juice, and minced parsley, and pour over them if
desired.


DEVILLED KIDNEYS

Parboil, drain, wipe, and slice the kidneys. Make a marinade of three
tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, one of vinegar,--tarragon vinegar or
lemon-juice may be used,--a teaspoonful of mustard, salt, and red
pepper. Dip the sliced kidneys in this dressing and broil. Minced
parsley is a pleasant addition to the marinade. After dipping in the
dressing, they may be rolled in crumbs and fried. Serve plain, or with
a sauce of melted butter, lemon-juice, and minced parsley, or with the
remaining marinade heated and poured over the kidneys.


KIDNEY AND BACON

Parboil and slice mutton or lamb kidneys. Fry brown in bacon fat and
serve on dry toast with the bacon.


STEWED BEEF KIDNEY

Parboil, drain, wipe, and cut into dice. Cook five minutes in boiling
water, drain, add a small onion, grated, a pinch of sage, and a cup
of water. Bring to the boil once more, add a pinch of salt, and two
hard-boiled eggs, cut fine. Thicken with one tablespoonful of
cornstarch, rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Serve on toast.


KIDNEYS A LA TERRAPIN

Parboil, drain, wipe, and cut into dice. Reheat in cream sauce, to
which hard-boiled eggs, cut fine, and minced parsley are added. Serve
on toast.


BROILED KIDNEYS--MAITRE D'HOTEL

Use veal or lamb kidneys. Plunge for an instant into boiling water,
skim out, and wipe dry. Split down the middle without cutting through,
skin, and run a skewer through each to keep flat. Broil as usual. When
brown, remove the skewers, lay on a hot platter, pour over melted
butter, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and sprinkle with chopped
parsley. Kidneys and liver must be cooked very quickly, as long
cooking makes them tough.


MINCED LAMB WITH POACHED EGGS

Chop cold roast lamb very fine. Season with salt, pepper, and a bit of
mint. Reheat in the gravy, or in water, adding a little butter, or in
a cream sauce. Spread thinly on thin slices of dry buttered toast,
slip a poached egg on each slice, and serve at once, sprinkled with
pepper and minced parsley.


BROILED LAMB'S LIVER

Cut the liver in thin slices, cover with olive oil, and soak half an
hour. Drain, season with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, and broil.
Finish as for Broiled Kidneys.


CALF'S LIVER AND BACON

Cook the bacon first, skim out, and put the slices of liver, dredged
with flour and seasoned with salt, into the hot fat. Cook very
quickly.


LIVER A LA CREME

Parboil calf's liver, drain, wipe, and cut into dice or chop coarsely.
Reheat in a cream sauce, seasoning with salt and pepper. Minced
parsley, lemon-juice, or finely cut capers may be added to the sauce.
Serve on toast. Cold cooked liver may be used in this way.


LIVER HASH

Equal parts of cold cooked liver and cold potatoes, cut fine. Reheat
in a frying-pan, adding butter and boiling water as necessary. Almost
any cold cooked meat may be used in this way.


BAKED HASH

Butter a shallow baking-dish, pile in the hash loosely, smooth the
top, dot with butter, and bake until brown and crisp. Turn out on a
platter or serve in the dish, a fresh napkin or a paper frill being
arranged around the dish.


LIVER BOULETTES

Chop cold cooked liver fine. Reheat in a very thick cream sauce, well
seasoned. Cool, shape into small flat cakes, dip in egg and crumbs,
and fry brown.


LIVER AND BACON BALLS

Cold cooked liver cut fine and half as much cooked bacon, chopped.
Shape into small flat cakes, using a raw egg to bind if necessary. Dip
in egg and crumbs and fry brown.


MEAT AND RICE BALLS

One cupful of cold cooked rice, one cupful of finely chopped cooked
meat,--any kind, or several kinds,--a pinch of salt, a dash of pepper,
two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of milk, and one egg. Put
the milk on to boil, add the rice, meat, and seasoning. When it boils,
add the egg, well beaten, and stir one minute. Take from the fire,
cool, form into small flat cakes, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry
brown. May be prepared the day before using.


FRIED SALT PORK

Cut in thin slices, freshen in cold water gradually brought to the
boil. Drain, wipe, trim off the rind, roll in flour, and fry. When
brown, put on a hot platter and make a cream sauce, using the fat in
the pan. Fried salt pork with cream sauce poured over it is a
venerable New England dish of some three centuries' standing.


PHILADELPHIA SCRAPPLE

Use the head, heart, and feet of fresh pork. Boil until the flesh
slips from the bone. Cool, take out the bones and gristle, and chop
the meat fine. Set aside the water in which the meat was cooked, and
when cold take the cake of fat from the surface. Bring the liquor to
the boil once more, add the chopped meat, and when at a galloping
boil, sprinkle in, slowly, enough corn-meal to make a thick mush. Cook
slowly for an hour or more. Pour into a pan wet with cold water and
let stand in a cold place over night. Turn out on a platter, cut in
half-inch slices, and fry.


SAUSAGE

Prick the skins with a needle or fork to prevent bursting. Cover with
boiling water, parboil five minutes, drain, wipe, and fry as usual.
The sausage meat is made into small flat cakes, dredged with flour and
fried. Bread crumbs may be used in making the sausage cakes if
desired. If the cakes do not hold together readily, add a little
beaten egg.


BAKED SAUSAGE

Prick the sausages and lay each one on a strip of buttered bread its
own length and width. Arrange in a baking-pan and bake in a very hot
oven till the sausages are brown and the bread crisp.


SAUSAGES BAKED IN POTATOES

Prick medium-sized sausages and brown quickly in a spider. Take out
and keep warm. Core large potatoes, draw the sausages through the
cores, and bake. A pleasant surprise for the person peeling the
potato.


BROILED SWEETBREADS

Parboil, in slightly acidulated water, for five minutes, then throw
into cold water. Remove pipes and fibres and let cool--the colder the
better. Split, rub with melted butter, season with pepper and salt,
and broil or fry. They may also be dipped in egg and crumbs and fried
or broiled. Serve on a hot platter. A sauce of melted butter,
lemon-juice, and minced parsley is a pleasing accompaniment.


FRIED TRIPE

Tripe as it comes from the market is already prepared. Wash
thoroughly, boil until tender, drain, and cool. Cut into strips,
season with salt and pepper, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in butter
or drippings until brown. It may be prepared for frying the day before
and kept in a cool place. Breaded tripe may also be broiled on a
buttered gridiron.


FRICASSEED TRIPE

Cut a pound of tripe in narrow strips, add a cupful of water, a piece
of butter the size of an egg, and a tablespoonful of flour, rubbed
smooth in a little cold water. Season with salt and simmer thirty
minutes. Serve very hot, on toast if desired.


TRIPE A LA LYONNAISE

One pound of cooked tripe cut into inch squares, two tablespoonfuls of
butter, one tablespoonful of chopped onion, one tablespoonful of
vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Put the butter and onion in a
frying-pan. When the onion turns yellow, add the tripe and seasoning,
boil up once more, and serve immediately, on toast.


TRIPE A LA POULETTE

Fry a chopped onion in three tablespoonfuls of butter. When brown, add
a pound of tripe, cut into dice, season with salt and paprika, and fry
until the mixture is partially dry. Add a heaping tablespoonful of
flour, and when the butter has absorbed it, add slowly two cupfuls of
stock or milk and a slight grating of nutmeg. Simmer till the tripe is
tender. Beat together one tablespoonful of melted butter and one
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, stir into the well-beaten yolks of two
eggs, take the tripe from the fire, mix thoroughly, and serve at once.


MINCED VEAL AND EGGS

Chop cold cooked veal very fine. Add hard-boiled eggs cut fine, one to
each two cupfuls of meat. Reheat in hot water, adding melted butter,
or in a cream sauce. A bit of green pepper, parsley, grated onion,
pimento, or capers finely cut may be used for flavoring. Other meats
may be prepared in the same way.




SUBSTITUTES FOR MEAT


Certain things are well suited to replace meat at the breakfast table.
It is a good idea to bar out the potato, unless in hash, for the
simple reason that the humble vegetable appears at dinner about three
hundred and sixty-five days in the year, and even a good thing may be
worked to death. Americans have been accused, not altogether unjustly,
of being "potato mad." Potato left-overs can be used at luncheon, if
not in hash for breakfast.


FRIED EGGPLANT

Slice the eggplant in slices one third of an inch thick, pare, put
into a deep dish, and cover with cold water well salted. Soak one
hour. Drain, wipe, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry brown.


BROILED MUSHROOMS

Choose large, firm mushrooms. Remove the stems, peel, wash, and wipe
dry. Rub with melted butter and broil. Serve with a sauce made of
melted butter, lemon-juice, and minced parsley.


FRIED MUSHROOMS

Prepare as above, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Or saute
in butter in the frying-pan. Breaded mushrooms may be broiled if
dipped in melted butter or oil before broiling.


BAKED MUSHROOMS

Prepare as above. Place in a shallow earthen baking-dish, hollow side
up, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place a small piece of butter
on each. Baste with melted butter and a few drops of lemon-juice.
Serve very hot, on buttered toast.


GRILLED MUSHROOMS

Cut off the stalks, peel, and score lightly the under side of large,
firm, fresh mushrooms. Sprinkle with pepper and salt and soak a few
moments in oil. Drain and broil. Serve with lemon quarters and garnish
with parsley.


FRENCH TOAST

Make a batter of two eggs, well beaten, a cupful of milk, a
tablespoonful of melted butter, and spice or grated lemon- or
orange-peel to flavor. Dip the trimmed slices of bread in this batter
and fry brown in butter.


CORN OYSTERS

Two cupfuls of green corn, grated, half a cupful of milk, one cupful
of sifted flour, two eggs, a teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful
each of butter and lard. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add the milk,
then the flour and salt. Beat to a smooth batter, add the corn, then
beat again, adding the well beaten whites of the eggs last. Put the
lard and butter into a frying-pan, and when very hot put in the batter
by small spoonfuls. Brown on one side, then turn. If the batter is too
thick, add a little more milk. The thinner the batter, the more
delicate and tender the oysters will be. Canned corn may be used, if
it is chopped very fine, but it is not so good. By scoring deeply with
a sharp knife each row of kernels on an ear of corn, the pulp may be
pressed out with a knife. The corn may be cut from the cob and
chopped, but the better way is to press out the pulp.

       *       *       *       *       *

Regardless of the allurements of wood and field, it is always safest
to buy mushrooms at a reliable market. So many people are now making a
business of raising them that they are continually getting cheaper.
The silver spoon test is absolutely worthless. In fact, the only sure
test is the risky one: "Eat it, and if you live it's a mushroom--if
you die it's a toadstool." However, when buying mushrooms of a
reliable dealer, one takes practically no risk at all, and, even at
the highest price, a box of mushrooms is much cheaper than a really
nice funeral.




EGGS


Various rules have been given for testing the freshness of eggs, but
there is only one which is reliable, and it is, perhaps, the most
simple of all. It is merely this: open the egg and look at the
contents in a strong light. It is better to hold it near the eyes and
at the same time take a deep breath inward.

Strictly fresh eggs come from the country sometimes with the date of
their appearance stamped indelibly in purple on the egg. This is done
by giving the hens chopped calendars with their meals. Care should be
taken, however, to furnish this year's calendar. Nobody wants an egg
with a last-year's date on it and the error is likely to disarrange
the digestion of the hen. Eggs flavored with onions or tomatoes are
secured by turning the hens into a neighbor's vegetable garden. A
certain florist feeds his unsold roses to his hens and sells
rose-flavored eggs to his customers at a fancy price. The hint is well
worth remembering. Violet-flavored eggs might be had, doubtless, in
the same way.

At a formal breakfast, all precautions should be taken to insure the
freshness of the eggs. A conscientious hostess would be very much
mortified if she served chicken out of its proper course.


POACHED EGGS

Use a skillet, or muffin-rings placed in a pan of water, not too deep.
The water should barely cover the eggs. Bring the water to the boiling
point, drop in the eggs carefully, one at a time, and remove from the
fire immediately. Cover the pan and let stand until cooked. A
teaspoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar in the water will keep the
whites firm and preserve the shape of the eggs. Poached eggs are
usually served on thin slices of buttered toast. Take up with a
skimmer and let drain thoroughly before placing on the toast. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper. As every other writer who has given directions
for poaching eggs has said that "the beauty of a poached egg is for
the yolk to be seen blushing through the veiled white," the author of
this book will make no allusion to it.


SCRAMBLED EGGS

Put two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying-pan. When it
sizzles, break into it quickly six fresh eggs and mix thoroughly with
a silver spoon for two minutes without stopping. Season with salt and
pepper and a slight grating of nutmeg if desired. Scrambled eggs
should be thick and creamy.


SCRAMBLED EGGS--II

Beat the eggs thoroughly, add one teaspoonful of cold water or milk
for each egg and beat again. Cook as above.


SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS

Have one cupful of cold cooked asparagus tips ready. In boiling
asparagus its color will keep better if the smallest possible pinch of
baking soda be added to the water. It should be cooked quickly in an
uncovered saucepan. Prepare the eggs as for Scrambled Eggs--II, and
when they begin to thicken, put in the asparagus tips and stir until
the eggs are done. One half cupful of the asparagus tips to each three
eggs is about the right proportion, but more may be added if desired.
In making scrambles, allow one egg for each person and one extra for
each three persons.


SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH DRIED BEEF

One cupful of minced dried beef, which has been soaked in boiling
water for five minutes. Put it into melted butter, stir till the
butter sizzles, then pour over six or seven-well-beaten eggs. Stir
till the eggs are smooth and creamy. Serve at once. Any scramble may
be served on toast if desired.


FRIED EGGS

Three tablespoonfuls of butter in the frying-pan. When it sizzles,
slip in the broken eggs carefully, one at a time. Tip the pan and
baste with the melted butter while cooking. If wanted crisp on both
sides, turn the eggs over when the under side is done. Wet in cold
water the saucer on which an egg is broken and the egg will not stick
to it, but will slip easily into the pan. Olive oil may be used
instead of butter, but the pan must be covered during the cooking, as
the oil spatters.


FRIED EGGS AU BEURRE NOIR

Fry eggs as above, using butter or oil. When done, skim out, add more
butter or oil to that in the pan, season with salt, pepper, vinegar,
or lemon-juice, and let brown. When the butter is brown pour it over
the fried eggs and serve.


EGGS A LA CREME

Make a cream sauce, using one tablespoonful of butter, two of flour,
two cupfuls of milk, and pepper and salt to season. When the sauce is
thick and creamy, add hard-boiled eggs coarsely chopped, and serve at
once on toast. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.


EGGS A LA TRIPE

Fry two sliced onions in butter, but do not brown. Stir in one cupful
of milk or cream and enough flour to thicken, rubbed smooth in a
little of the cream or milk. Season with salt, white pepper, and a bit
of grated nutmeg. Stir till thick, then add eight hard-boiled eggs,
sliced crosswise. Heat thoroughly and serve.


EGGS AU MIROIR

Butter a stone platter that will stand the heat of the oven. Break
into it carefully enough fresh eggs to cover it, taking care not to
break the yolks. Place in the oven till the eggs are set. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper and minced parsley and serve at once.


EGGS WITH CREAMED CELERY

Make the cream sauce and put into it enough boiled celery, coarsely
cut, to serve as a vegetable. Spread on buttered toast and lay a
poached egg on each slice. The tough, unsightly portions of celery
stalks may be used in this way.


CHICKEN LIVER SCRAMBLE

Use one cupful of chopped cooked chicken livers and six or seven
well-beaten eggs. Prepare like other scrambles.


CHEESE SCRAMBLE

One half cupful of grated American cheese and six well-beaten eggs.
Mix the cheese with the eggs before cooking.


EGGS A LA PAYSANNE

Put one half cupful of cream into a baking-dish, break into it six
fresh eggs, and place in the oven till the eggs are set. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper, minced parsley, and sweet green pepper.


EGGS A L'AURORE

Make the cream sauce and add to it the shredded whites of six or eight
hard-boiled eggs. Spread on buttered toast and rub the yolks through a
sieve, sprinkling each slice of toast with the powdered yolk.
Sometimes called "Eggs a la Goldenrod."


OYSTER SCRAMBLE

One cupful of oysters, cut fine. Pour boiling water over, drain on a
fine sieve, and add six or seven well-beaten eggs. Prepare as other
scrambles.


MUSHROOM SCRAMBLE

One cupful of cooked mushrooms, cut fine, six or eight well-beaten
eggs. Serve on toast.


LOBSTER SCRAMBLE

One cupful of cold cooked lobster, six or eight well-beaten eggs. Mix
before putting into the hot butter.


TOMATO SCRAMBLE

One cupful of stewed and strained tomato, or of fresh tomato peeled
and rubbed through a sieve, six or eight well-beaten eggs. Mix before
putting into the hot butter.


GREEN PEA SCRAMBLE

One cupful of cold cooked green peas, six or seven well-beaten eggs.
Mix before beginning to cook.


HAM SCRAMBLE

One cupful of cold boiled ham, minced, mixed with eight well-beaten
eggs. A little grated onion is an improvement.


BACON SCRAMBLE

Fry one cupful of shredded bacon until partially cooked, drain off
part of the fat, add six or seven well-beaten eggs, and finish
cooking, stirring constantly. A little grated onion may be added with
the eggs.


CRAB SCRAMBLE

One cupful of cooked shredded crab-meat, six or seven well-beaten
eggs. Shredded green peppers may be added at pleasure. The canned
crab-meat is nearly as good as the fresh.


SHRIMP SCRAMBLE

One cupful of finely cut cooked shrimps, six or seven well-beaten
eggs. Green peppers may be added. Canned shrimps may be used.


KIDNEY SCRAMBLE

One cupful of cold cooked kidneys, cut fine, six or seven well-beaten
eggs. Prepare like other scrambles.


SAUSAGE SCRAMBLE

One cupful of cooked sausage-meat, finely minced, mixed with six or
seven well-beaten eggs before cooking. Or, use uncooked sausage-meat
and prepare like Bacon Scramble.


SARDINE SCRAMBLE

Add the juice of half a lemon to one cupful of finely cut sardines.
Use the oil from the can instead of butter. Beat six or seven eggs
thoroughly and mix with the sardines before cooking.


TONGUE SCRAMBLE

One cupful finely minced cooked tongue, six or eight well-beaten eggs.
Season with grated onion, shredded green pepper, or minced parsley.


EGGS WITH FINE HERBS

Use a heaping tablespoonful of minced parsley, chives, and tarragon to
eight well-beaten eggs, mixing before putting into the hot butter.


MEXICAN EGGS

Split three sweet green peppers, lengthwise, and take out the seeds.
Fry two minutes in very hot butter. Fry six very thin slices of ham
and place on slices of toast, lay the peppers over the ham, and put a
fried or a poached egg on each slice.


SPANISH EGGS

Cook together one cupful of stewed and strained tomato, one bean of
garlic, finely minced, one chopped onion, and two sweet green
peppers, seeded and chopped. Cook gently till reduced one half. Spread
on thin slices of toast and lay a fried or poached egg on each slice.


CREAMED CHICKEN AND POACHED EGGS

Make a cream sauce, add one cupful of minced cooked chicken, spread on
toast, and lay a poached egg on each slice.


BOILED EGGS--I

Put the eggs into a saucepan of cold water and bring to the boil. Boil
one minute and serve at once.


BOILED EGGS--II

Have a saucepan of water at a galloping boil. Drop in the eggs
carefully, cover, and let stand till the eggs are cool enough to
handle. They will be perfectly cooked and much more easily managed
than if the shells were piping hot.


EGGS IN CRUSTS

Cut stale bread into slices an inch thick. Scoop out the centres of
each slice and remove the crust. Rub with butter, drop an egg into
each cavity, and put in a hot oven till the eggs are set.


EGGS IN RAMEKINS

Butter ramekins or custard cups. Drop an egg into each cup and place
in a hot oven till the egg is set. This method of cooking eggs may be
endlessly varied by filling the cups half full of minced meat, fish,
seasoned crumbs, creamed vegetables, or anything else which combines
well with eggs. Anything used in a scramble or an omelet may be placed
in the bottom of the ramekin. If too dry, moisten with cream, milk, or
water. The egg may be sprinkled with crumbs and dotted with butter.
Grated cheese and minced parsley may be added at pleasure. A
"left-over" which is otherwise hopeless may often be used
advantageously in a ramekin with an egg. The small individual dishes
are pleasing, when served on a fresh doily. Lacking the individual
dishes, or for variety, a stoneware platter, or a baking-dish may be
half filled with the mixture and the eggs broken on top.


BAKED EGGS WITH CHEESE

Make toast and hollow the slices slightly in the centre. Mix grated
cheese to a paste with milk and spread over the toast. Arrange on a
stoneware platter or in a baking-dish, break an egg over each slice,
sprinkle with more cheese, and place in a hot oven till the eggs are
set.


BAKED EGGS WITH HAM

Make the cream sauce and add to it one cupful of cold cooked ham,
finely minced. Butter custard cups, break an egg into each, and stand
in a pan of hot water in the oven till the eggs are firm. Spread the
minced ham on a platter or on slices of toast, and turn the eggs on to
it. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and minced parsley.


CODDLED EGGS

Allow four tablespoonfuls of milk for each egg. Beat together
thoroughly, cook in a double boiler till creamy, and serve on toast.


EGGS AND MUSHROOMS

(_May Irwin's Recipe_)

One pound of fresh mushrooms cleaned well in several waters, and wiped
dry. Put into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful
of salt, and a dash of white pepper. Set over the fire till thoroughly
hot, then turn into a shallow baking-dish, and break over them six
eggs. Sprinkle with stale bread crumbs, dot with butter, dust with
salt and pepper, and bake in a hot oven till the eggs are set. Serve
on buttered toast.


EGGS IN AMBUSH

Scoop out the crumb from stale rolls, first cutting an even slice off
the top. Toast or fry the shells thus made, or rub freely with butter
and set into a piping hot oven until crisp and brown. Drop a fresh egg
into each shell, add a little minced parsley or a teaspoonful of
cream, if desired, or any preferred seasoning of minced fish, or meat,
or vegetable. (See Eggs in Ramekins.) Bake in a hot oven till the eggs
set, put on the covers, and serve. A pleasant surprise for the person
who expects to find only a roll.


EGGS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL

Make a sauce of half a cupful of melted butter, the juice of half a
lemon, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Cut hard-boiled eggs in
slices lengthwise, arrange on buttered toast, and pour the sauce over
the eggs, or, pour over poached eggs on toast just before serving.


POACHED EGGS ON ANCHOVY TOAST

Work a teaspoonful of anchovy paste, or more, if desired, into half a
cupful of butter. Spread on thin slices of crisp toast and lay a
poached egg on each slice.


EGGS SUR LE PLAT

Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, spread on a buttered
platter, and make hollows in the froth with a spoon. In these hollows
drop carefully the unbroken yolks. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and
place in a hot oven until the eggs are set.


BIRDS' NESTS

Use recipe for Eggs sur le Plat. Arrange in ramekins or on slices of
toast.


EGGS BAKED IN TOMATOES

Cut off a slice from the top (blossom end), of a small, ripe,
well-shaped tomato. With a silver spoon scoop out the pulp carefully,
sprinkle the inside with salt and drain for a few moments, upside
down. Put a tablespoonful of seasoned bread crumbs in the bottom of
the tomato, break a fresh egg into it, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and place in a hot oven until the egg is set. Prepare one tomato for
each person.


SWISS EGGS

Rub a stoneware platter thickly with butter, cover it with very thin
slices of fresh Gruyere cheese, break fresh eggs upon the cheese,
sprinkle with grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt, pour half a cupful of
cream over the eggs, sprinkle with the cheese, grated, and bake about
a quarter of an hour in a hot oven. Serve on the same platter on which
the eggs were baked.


CHICKEN SCRAMBLE

Use one cupful of cold cooked chicken, shredded or chopped, to seven
well-beaten eggs, and prepare like other scrambles. A bit of green
pepper or of chopped pimento is an agreeable addition.


EGGS A LA BONNE FEMME

Fry two sliced onions brown in butter, then add a tablespoonful of
vinegar. Butter a platter, spread the fried onions over it, break upon
it six fresh eggs, sprinkle with crumbs, dot with butter, and bake in
a hot oven until the eggs are set.


EGGS A LA BOURGEOISE

Cut slices of bread half an inch thick and trim off the crust, lay on
a buttered platter, and sprinkle with grated cheese. Beat eggs enough
to cover the bread, season with salt and pepper and grated nutmeg,
pour over the bread and bake in a moderate oven until the eggs are
set.


EGGS A LA ST. CATHERINE

Select smooth, shapely potatoes and bake until soft. Cut in halves
lengthwise and scoop out a part of the pulp. Break an egg into each
half, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add a teaspoonful of cream to
each egg and bake in a moderate oven until the eggs are set. In the
meantime, beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, and work
gradually into it the potato pulp which has been scooped out. Heap
roughly over the baked eggs and keep in the oven till well puffed and
brown. A little grated cheese or minced parsley may be sprinkled over
the top.


EGGS IN PEPPERS

Cut a thin slice from the stem end of a green pepper and take out the
seeds. Cut a slice from the smaller end, so that the pepper may stand
straight, and put on a slice of buttered toast. Make a small hollow in
the toast under the pepper and break an egg into each one. Bake until
the eggs are set.


EGGS POACHED IN MILK

Butter a frying-pan, add a pint of milk, and bring the milk to a boil.
Slip in fresh eggs, one at a time, and poach as usual. Skim out,
season with salt and pepper, and put each egg on a slice of buttered
toast. Pour the milk over and serve immediately.


EGGS A LA WASHINGTON

Lay a slice of fresh fried tomato on each slice of buttered toast. On
each slice of tomato arrange some shredded sweet pepper, fried. Lay a
poached egg on each slice, and sprinkle with parsley and sweet pepper
minced together.


PIMENTO SCRAMBLE

Use the scarlet pimentos which come in cans. Chop rather coarsely and
use half a cupful to each four eggs. Prepare like other scrambles.


EGGS A LA ESPAGNOLE

Make a cream sauce and add to it half a cupful of shredded pimentos.
Spread over buttered toast and put a poached egg on each slice.


CODFISH SCRAMBLE

Use one cupful of shredded salt cod which has been freshened, and
seven well-beaten eggs. Salt Mackerel, Finnan Haddie, Smoked Salmon,
or other salt fish may be used. Clams, Caviare, Herring, Sturgeon, and
many other left-overs are also acceptable.


STEAMED EGGS

Break fresh eggs into buttered custard cups and steam until set.


BAKED EGGS ON RASHERS OF BACON

Have ready some thin slices of bacon fried until transparent, but not
crisp. Lay two strips of bacon on each slice of toast, arrange in a
baking-pan, break an egg over each slice of toast, and bake until the
egg is set.


SCRAMBLED EGGS IN CUPS

Prepare stale rolls as for Eggs in Ambush, but bake the buttered rolls
until crisp and brown. Fill with scrambled eggs and serve immediately.


RICE SCRAMBLE

Use a cupful of cold cooked rice and eight well-beaten eggs and
proceed as for other scrambles. A little milk or water may be
necessary.


SURPRISE EGGS

Boil fresh eggs four minutes, skim out, plunge into cold water for an
instant, then remove the shells. Dip each egg into egg and crumbs,
then fry in deep fat.


JAPANESE EGGS

Spread hot boiled rice on a platter, season with melted butter,
lemon-juice, and minced parsley. Poach six eggs and arrange them on
the rice.


RUMBLED EGGS

Beat three fresh eggs with two tablespoonfuls of butter, and add a
teaspoonful of milk. Stir over a moderate fire until it puffs up, then
serve at once on buttered toast.


EGGS A LA WALDORF

Beat six eggs with half a cupful of cream, half a teaspoonful of salt,
and a sprinkle of pepper. Cut two large mushrooms into dice and fry
one minute in two tablespoonfuls of butter. Pour the egg mixture over
the mushrooms and stir rapidly until it begins to thicken, then take
from the fire and beat until smooth and creamy. Serve at once on
buttered toast.


WHIPPED EGGS

Beat six eggs separately, the whites to a stiff froth. Mix thoroughly,
season with salt and pepper, and pour into two quarts of salted water
at a galloping boil. Stir one minute, then drain through a fine sieve.
Serve on buttered toast and garnish with crisp rashers of bacon.


ESCALLOPED EGGS

Make the cream sauce. Have ready eight hard-boiled eggs and some dried
bread crumbs. Butter ramekins, put in a layer of crumbs, then sliced
eggs, then butter in tiny dots, then sauce, and so on, until the dish
is full, having crumbs and butter on top. A little grated cheese may
be sprinkled over the top. If too dry, moisten with a little milk or
cream. Bake until brown.


POACHED EGGS WITH CREAMED SALMON

Make a cream sauce and reheat in it either canned salmon, or a cupful
of salt or smoked salmon. Spread on buttered toast and lay a poached
egg on each slice. Sprinkle with minced parsley and garnish with lemon
quarters.


EGGS A LA MARTIN

Boil six eggs four minutes, plunge into cold water, then remove the
shells. Arrange in a baking-dish, or in ramekins, cover with cream
sauce, sprinkle with bread crumbs and a little grated cheese, dot with
butter, and bake until brown.




OMELETS

    "_To make an omelet, you must first break eggs._"--_French
    Proverb._


So many different methods for making omelets are given, in works of
recognized authority, that it seems as if any one who had an egg and
an omelet pan could hardly go amiss. Yet failures are frequent, as
every omelet-maker knows.

French writers say positively that no liquid of any sort must be added
to an omelet--that it contains eggs and eggs alone, beaten just enough
to break the yolks. American authorities add milk or water, or beat
the eggs separately, the whites to a stiff froth. One of them makes a
clear distinction between an omelet and a puffy omelet; the puffy
omelet, of course, being made by folding in the stiffly beaten whites
before cooking. Some say milk makes it tough, and others say water
makes it stringy. Suffice it to say, however, that a perfect omelet is
a matter of experience and a deft hand. All writers agree that small
omelets are more easily made than large ones, and it is better to do
it twice or even three times than to have too many eggs in one
omelet. Below are given the various methods, from which the would-be
omelet-maker may choose. All of them have the stamp of good authority.


OMELET--I

Beat six eggs well, yolks and whites together. Put two tablespoonfuls
of butter into a frying-pan. When it is hot, pour in the beaten eggs,
which have been seasoned with salt and pepper. With a fork, draw the
cooked egg from the outside of the pan to the centre. As soon as it is
all thick, lift half of the omelet on to a plate, and turn the other
half over it. It should be turned while the centre is still soft, and
the fire should not be too hot.


OMELET--II

Break the eggs into a bowl, add as many tablespoonfuls of cold water
as there are eggs. Beat the eggs well, then season with salt and
pepper, and pour into a thin, smooth frying-pan which contains a
tablespoonful of melted butter. With a thin knife lift the cooked
portion of the egg and allow the uncooked portion to run down into the
butter, meanwhile gently rocking the pan back and forth. When creamy,
begin at the side of the pan nearest the handle and roll the omelet,
using a little butter if needed.


OMELET--III

Prepare as above, using milk instead of water.


OMELET--IV

Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs. Beat the yolks till thick
and lemon colored and the whites until they stand alone. Fold together
carefully, seasoning with salt and pepper, and adding a tablespoonful
of cold water for each egg. Have two tablespoonfuls of butter in the
frying-pan. When it is hot, pour in the egg mixture and let stand
until the egg is set around the edge and a knife plunged into the
centre comes out nearly clean. Then set the pan into the oven till the
omelet puffs. Score slightly across the middle with a sharp knife,
fold, and serve at once on a hot platter.


OMELET AUX FINES HERBES

Prepare Omelet I, and mix a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and
chives with the eggs before cooking.


PEA OMELET

Prepare Omelet I. As soon as the eggs are in the frying-pan, add a
cupful of cooked and drained peas, arranging carefully in the
outermost half so that the other portion will fold over it. Finish as
usual.


OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS

Have ready one cupful of cooked and drained asparagus tips. Prepare
according to directions given for Pea Omelet.


MUSHROOM OMELET

Use fresh mushrooms, if possible. Fry, and drain on brown paper. When
the eggs are in the frying-pan, spread the mushrooms on the outermost
half of the omelet, so that the other portion will fold over it.
Finish as usual.


OMELET WITH TOMATO SAUCE

Spread the outermost half of an omelet with tomato sauce, fold, and
finish as usual.


OMELET AU FROMAGE

Prepare Omelet I, adding half a cupful of grated Parmesan cheese, or
dried and grated American cheese, to the egg mixture.


HAM OMELET

Have ready one cupful of cooked ham, very finely minced. Spread on
half of the omelet and fold the other part over it.


OYSTER OMELET

One cupful of cooked oysters, minced or not, as preferred. Lay on half
of the omelet and fold.


CLAM OMELET

See Oyster Omelet.


SHRIMP OMELET

One cupful of cooked and shredded shrimps. See Oyster Omelet.


CRAB OMELET

One cupful of minced cooked crab meat. See Oyster Omelet.


LOBSTER OMELET

One cupful of cooked and shredded lobster. See Oyster Omelet.


TOMATO OMELET

One half cupful of stewed and strained tomatoes, or of fresh tomatoes
peeled and rubbed through a sieve. Spread on the outermost half of the
omelet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and fold.


DRIED BEEF OMELET

One cupful of dried beef, shredded or minced. Cook five minutes in
boiling water, drain in a cloth, spread on the outermost half of the
omelet, and fold.


KIDNEY OMELET

Cut the kidneys into inch pieces, fry, drain, and finish as for
Mushroom Omelet.


CHICKEN LIVER OMELET

One cupful of cooked chicken livers, cut in small pieces. See Oyster
Omelet.


SAUSAGE OMELET

Spread the outer portion of an omelet with cooked sausage meat and
fold as usual.


SARDINE OMELET

Rub to a paste with melted butter and lemon-juice enough sardines to
make half a cupful. Spread thinly on the outer half of an omelet, and
fold.


CHEESE OMELET II

Spread one cupful of grated cheese, Swiss, American, or Parmesan, on
the outer portion of an omelet when the eggs are first put in the
pan. Cook and fold as usual.


BLAZING OMELET

Make a plain omelet. Pour over it rum, kirsch, or brandy, ignite, and
send to the table blazing. Serve as soon as the fire has gone out.


BACON OMELET

Cook a plain omelet in bacon fat instead of in butter and garnish with
crisp rashers of bacon.


BACON OMELET II

Fry one cupful of minced bacon until crisp, drain off the fat, spread
the bacon on half the omelet, and fold.


BREAD OMELET

Soak half a cupful of bread crumbs in half a cupful of milk and mix
with the eggs before cooking.


OMELET A LA CREME

Make the cream sauce. Mix half a cupful of it with the omelet before
cooking. Spread the rest of it on the outermost half of the omelet,
finish, and fold as usual.


JELLY OMELET

Spread half of an omelet thinly with jelly--crabapple, currant,
gooseberry, or quince, and fold.


SPANISH OMELET

Cook until thick one half can of tomatoes, one grated onion, one very
finely minced bean of garlic, and one minced green pepper. Season with
salt and paprika, spread on half the omelet, and fold.


TONGUE OMELET

Have ready a cupful of cold cooked tongue, minced or shredded. Spread
on half the omelet, and fold.


CHICKEN OMELET

One cupful of cold cooked chicken, shredded or minced. Spread on half
of the omelet, and fold.


CAULIFLOWER OMELET

One cupful of cold cooked cauliflower, with its sauce. Cut fine,
spread on half the omelet, and fold.


ANCHOVY OMELET

Add a teaspoonful of anchovy paste to half a cupful of melted butter.
Mix thoroughly, spread on half the omelet, and fold.


POTATO OMELET

One cupful of cooked potatoes, creamed or fried, cut in dice. Spread
on half the omelet, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and minced parsley,
and fold.

       *       *       *       *       *

Almost any left-over can be advantageously used in an omelet. Fish,
especially salt fish, meats, and vegetables, in quantities of half a
cupful or more, preserved and fresh fruits, cereals--everything but
soups, salads, and puddings. Roughly speaking, any omelet mixture can
be added to the eggs before cooking, but as a general rule, it is
better to spread it on half of the omelet and fold the other half over
it, as otherwise the omelet is more likely to be heavy.

Sweet omelets are delicious. A teaspoonful of powdered sugar should be
added to the eggs before cooking, and the fruit, jam, jelly, or
preserves should be very thinly spread, as flavor is desired, not a
dessert. Fresh fruits are cut fine and sprinkled with powdered sugar,
spread on half the omelet, and the other half folded over. In the case
of juicy fruits, such as oranges, the juice of the fruit is carefully
saved and poured over the folded omelet just before serving.

Among the fresh fruits suitable for omelets are Apricots, Bananas,
Blackberries, Cherries, Gooseberries, Grapefruit, Plums,
Huckleberries, Oranges, Pineapples, Peaches, Raspberries, and
Strawberries--all crushed very fine and sweetened; the juice, if any,
being poured over the omelet.

Among the stewed and preserved fruits are Apples, Apricots, Cherries,
Currants, Figs, Gooseberries, Peaches, Pears, Plums, Quinces, Rhubarb,
and the various fruit jams. Rum or brandy poured over the omelet and
set on fire just before serving is a pleasant addition to many of the
fruit omelets, Fig especially.




QUICK BREADS


People who can eat hot breads for breakfast are always sorry for those
who cannot. Quite often the internal dissension ascribed to the hot
bread is due to something else, or to an undesirable combination of
food elements in one and the same meal. Besides, hot bread is so good
that it is sometimes eaten too quickly. This hint is of medical origin
and is worth consideration. Almost any hot bread will be found
harmless when baked a second time.


BAKING POWDER BISCUIT

Four cupfuls of sifted flour, shortening the size of an egg,--equal
parts of butter and lard preferred,--two heaping teaspoonfuls of
baking powder, and a pinch of salt. Mix thoroughly, rubbing with the
finger-tips till the flour is granular, like corn-meal. Add cold sweet
milk to make a dough as soft as can be handled, roll out an inch
thick, cut into rounds with a biscuit cutter, and bake in a hot oven.
The dough must be handled as little as possible after putting in the
milk.


QUICK BISCUIT

Two cupfuls of buttermilk, or of sour milk, a teaspoonful of baking
soda, a tablespoonful of melted butter or lard, and flour to make a
soft dough. Handle as little as possible, roll out, cut into circles
with a biscuit cutter, and bake in a quick oven.


BUTTERMILK BISCUIT

Sift four cupfuls of flour, add a tablespoonful of melted lard, a
pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of soda, and enough buttermilk to make a
soft dough. Roll thin, handling as little as possible, cut into
rounds, and bake in a quick oven.


EGG BISCUIT

Sift three cupfuls of flour, add a teaspoonful of salt, a
tablespoonful of sugar, two eggs well beaten, a tablespoonful of
melted lard, and a cupful of sweet milk to which has been added half a
teaspoonful each of soda and cream of tartar. Work to a smooth dough,
roll out half an inch thick, cut into circles with a biscuit cutter,
and bake on buttered pans.


SOUR MILK BISCUIT

Four cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of
salt, one tablespoonful of butter or lard, and two cupfuls of sour
milk. Or, leave out the butter and use sour cream. Mix the salt and
soda with the flour and sift it. Rub in the shortening, mix with the
milk, roll the dough half an inch thick, and cut into rounds with a
biscuit cutter. Bake from twelve to fifteen minutes in a quick oven.


NEW YORK BISCUIT

Two eggs well beaten, one cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of melted
lard, a pinch of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder and four
cupfuls of sifted flour. Roll out, cut into circles, and bake in a hot
oven.


SOUTHERN BATTER BREAD

Half a cupful of cold boiled rice, two eggs beaten separately, two
cupfuls of corn-meal, one tablespoonful of lard or butter, melted, a
teaspoonful of salt, and two cupfuls of milk. Beat together till
thoroughly mixed and bake quickly in buttered muffin-rings or in
shallow baking-tins.


SPOON BREAD

Pour one cupful of boiling water over one cupful of white corn-meal.
Add a pinch of salt, one cupful of cold boiled rice, three eggs, well
beaten, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and a cupful and a half of
milk. Mix thoroughly and pour two inches deep into a buttered earthen
baking-dish and bake till done. It should be like a baked custard and
is served from the dish with a spoon. Cereals other than rice may be
used, especially cerealine.


KENTUCKY BATTER BREAD

Two cupfuls of corn-meal, three eggs well beaten, one teaspoonful of
salt, and one tablespoonful of melted butter. Mix with enough milk to
make a thin batter. Pour into shallow buttered tins and bake about
forty-five minutes in a quick oven.


SOFT BATTER BREAD

Two cupfuls of sweet milk, two cupfuls of buttermilk, one cupful of
white corn-meal, half a teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of salt,
three eggs, and one tablespoonful of melted butter. Boil the milk and
add the meal slowly, making a mush, then add the salt and butter, and
cool. Add the eggs and a tablespoonful of milk in which the soda has
been dissolved. Bake in a buttered pan in a moderate oven.


COLONIAL BREAKFAST BREAD

One cupful of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, two cupfuls of rich
milk, and seven eggs, well beaten. Bake in a buttered cake-tin and
serve quickly.


ENGLISH BUNS

Rub half a cupful of butter into two cupfuls of flour, mix with a
teaspoonful of salt and two of baking powder. Add three tablespoonfuls
of sugar and half a cupful of cleaned currants. Mix well, add two
eggs, well beaten, and enough milk to make into a dough. Roll out, cut
into rounds with a biscuit cutter, and bake in a slow oven. The buns
should be an inch thick when put into the oven.


SOUTHERN CORN PONE

Two cupfuls of yellow corn-meal, one cupful of flour, two cupfuls of
milk, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one tablespoonful each of
lard and butter, melted, and two well-beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly,
spread thinly on a buttered baking-pan, and bake in a moderate oven.


SOUTHERN CORN PONE--II

Four cupfuls of corn-meal, one teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful
of melted lard, and enough cold water to make a soft dough. Mould into
thin oblong cakes and bake quickly in a well-buttered pan.


SOUTHERN CORN PONE--III

One and three quarter cupfuls of white corn-meal, half a teaspoonful
each of salt and soda, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one egg,
well beaten, and one cupful of buttermilk. Bake in a buttered pan for
half an hour.


CORN MUFFINS

Sift together three quarters of a cupful of corn-meal and the same of
flour, half a teaspoonful each of salt and soda, and a tablespoonful
of sugar. Mix with one egg, well beaten, and one cupful of thick sour
milk. Bake from twenty to thirty minutes in well-buttered muffin-tins.


CORN MUFFINS

Make as Oatmeal Gems and bake in muffin-tins.


CORN MUFFINS--II

Mix one cupful of corn-meal with one cupful of boiling water, spread
with butter, and let stand over night. In the morning, mix with one
tablespoonful of sugar, two eggs, well beaten, three quarters of a
cupful of sour milk, and one cupful of flour, sifted in with half a
teaspoonful each of salt and soda. Bake half an hour in buttered
muffin-rings.


CORN BREAD

Two heaping cupfuls of corn-meal, one cupful of flour, three eggs
beaten separately, one tablespoonful of melted lard, two of sugar,
two and a half cupfuls of milk, one teaspoonful of salt, and two of
baking powder. Sift the dry materials into the milk, eggs, and
shortening. Beat thoroughly, and bake half an hour in a buttered tin.


JOHNNY CAKE

One cupful of sweet milk, one cupful of buttermilk, one teaspoonful of
salt, one of soda, and one tablespoonful of melted butter. Add enough
corn-meal to roll into a sheet half an inch thick. Lay on a buttered
baking-pan and bake till brown and crisp, basting occasionally with
melted butter meanwhile. Break instead of cutting, and serve hot.


CORN DODGERS

Pour two cupfuls of boiling water over two cupfuls of corn-meal. Add a
pinch of salt and drop by spoonfuls in a well-buttered shallow pan.
Dot with butter and bake till crisp and brown, or bake on a griddle.


NEW ENGLAND CORN DODGERS

Two cupfuls of white corn-meal, two pinches of salt, and a teaspoonful
of sugar sifted together. Dampen with boiling water and thin with cold
milk to a batter which will keep its shape on a griddle. Butter the
griddle and drop the batter on by spoonfuls. Put dots of butter on
each dodger, and when crisp and brown on one side turn and brown on
the other. Keep hot in the oven a few minutes before serving.


CORN DODGERS--III

Mix a teaspoonful of salt with two cupfuls of corn-meal. Pour over it
enough boiling water to moisten and let stand ten minutes. Add three
eggs, beaten separately, one cupful of milk, and a teaspoonful of
baking powder. Thin with more milk if necessary and bake on a buttered
griddle. Ham or bacon fat may be used in place of butter.


SOUTHERN HOECAKES

Add a teaspoonful of salt and a heaping teaspoonful of baking powder
to one cupful and a third of corn-meal. Beat the yolks of two eggs
until light, add a cupful of milk and beat hard for a few moments,
then add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Put a
tablespoonful of lard into a spider and drop in the batter by
spoonfuls, turning when done on one side. Serve very hot.


CORN BREAD--II

One cupful of corn-meal, a teaspoonful each of salt and baking powder,
a tablespoonful of butter or lard, melted, three eggs and a cupful
and a half of milk. Mix the salt with the meal, beat the eggs, mix
with the milk and pour over the meal, then sift in the baking powder,
beat hard, and add the melted butter last. Pour into a baking-pan and
bake in a hot oven.


CORN MUFFINS--III

One cupful of corn-meal, two cupfuls of buttermilk, a pinch of salt,
one teaspoonful of soda, one egg, and a tablespoonful of melted lard.
Beat the eggs, add the soda to the milk and lard, then mix with the
meal. Bake in hot buttered muffin-rings filled half full.


CORN AND RICE MUFFINS

Two cupfuls of buttermilk, one cupful of white corn-meal, one
teaspoonful of soda, a pinch of salt, one egg, half a cupful of cream,
and half a cupful of boiled rice. Mash the rice, add the salt, egg,
and cream, then the buttermilk mixed with the soda, then the meal.
Bake in buttered muffin-pans in a quick oven.


BREAKFAST CORN BREAD

Two cupfuls of corn-meal, two cupfuls of sifted flour, one
tablespoonful of sugar, one tablespoonful of lard or butter, one
teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, two cupfuls
of milk, and three eggs well beaten. Sift the dry ingredients and rub
in the cold butter. Beat the eggs separately, the yolks with the milk,
then the dry ingredients, and add the whites of the eggs last. Bake
about half an hour in buttered shallow pans.


APPLE JOHNNY CAKE

Mix two cupfuls of corn-meal with half a cupful of sugar, a pinch of
salt, and a teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Dissolve half a
teaspoonful of soda in a cupful and a half of milk, stir in, and add
three peeled and cored apples sliced very thin. Bake in a buttered
shallow tin thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven.


CORN MUFFINS--IV

Beat two eggs very light, add one tablespoonful of melted butter,
three tablespoonfuls of corn-meal, one teaspoonful of brown sugar, one
heaping tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of baking powder
and one cupful of milk. Mix thoroughly, pour into buttered
muffin-tins, and bake in a quick oven.


CORN DODGERS--IV

Two cupfuls of corn-meal, one cupful of sour milk or buttermilk, one
pinch of salt, one teaspoonful of soda, one egg well beaten. Bake on a
hot griddle.


CORN MUFFINS--V

One cupful of yellow corn-meal, one cupful of flour, one heaping
tablespoonful of sugar, one heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, one
egg, well beaten, one cupful and a half of sweet milk, and a pinch of
salt. Beat hard and bake in well buttered muffin-pans.


CORN PUFFS

Sift together one and two thirds cupfuls of flour, one cupful of meal,
and two level teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Rub two tablespoonfuls of
butter to a cream with three tablespoonfuls of sugar, add three
well-beaten eggs and two cupfuls of milk. Combine mixtures, beat
thoroughly, pour into well-buttered muffin-tins and bake.


FRUIT CORN MUFFINS

Two cupfuls of yellow corn-meal, one cupful of flour, two
tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking
powder, one tablespoonful of melted butter, two eggs, well beaten, one
and one half cupfuls of milk, and one cupful of fruit. Dates, figs,
prunes, or other fruits may be used. Stones should be removed and the
fruit cut fine. Bake in well-buttered muffin-pans for about twenty
minutes.


CORN AND HOMINY MUFFINS

Mash one cupful of cold boiled hominy with one cupful of corn-meal.
Add a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of baking
powder, a tablespoonful of melted butter, one egg, well beaten, and
one cupful of milk. Beat hard for five minutes, pour into buttered
gem-pans, and bake fifteen or twenty minutes in a hot oven.


SOFT CORN BREAD

One cupful of corn-meal, one cupful of sour milk, a pinch of soda, one
cupful of sweet milk, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a pinch of
salt, and two well-beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly and bake in a deep
baking-dish, well buttered.


FLORIDA CORN BREAD

One cupful of buttermilk, one cupful of sweet milk, one half
teaspoonful of soda, two eggs, one cupful of corn-meal, and one
teaspoonful of salt. Mix the buttermilk, sweet milk, and soda
together, and when the soda is thoroughly dissolved, pour the milk
over the beaten eggs. Add the corn-meal and beat thoroughly. Spread
lard over the bottom and sides of the baking-tin, place in the oven
until very hot, then pour in the batter and bake in a quick oven until
a delicate brown.


CHARLESTON BREAKFAST CAKE

Beat together one cupful of sugar and one tablespoonful of melted
butter. Add two eggs, beaten very light, a pinch of salt, a grating of
nutmeg, and one cupful of milk. Sift in two cupfuls of flour and three
level teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake in hot buttered muffin-tins
or in a shallow baking-pan.


DATE GEMS

One cupful of dates, seeded and chopped fine, two cupfuls of milk, two
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one heaping teaspoonful of baking
powder, three cupfuls of flour, and one egg well beaten. Mix the egg
and milk, sift the dry ingredients together, add the chopped dates,
and combine mixtures. Beat hard and bake in well-buttered gem-irons
for about twenty minutes. Figs or prunes may be used instead of dates.


GRAHAM BISCUIT

Three cupfuls of Graham flour, one cupful of white flour, three
cupfuls of milk, two tablespoonfuls of lard, one heaping tablespoonful
of sugar, a pinch of salt and two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking
powder. Mix and bake like Baking Powder Biscuits.


GRAHAM PUFFS

Two cupfuls of Graham flour, four cupfuls of boiling milk, and a
teaspoonful of salt. The dough should be as soft as it can be handled.
Roll an inch thick, cut into circles, arrange on a buttered pan and
bake in the hottest kind of an oven. If the oven is right, they will
be very light.


GRAHAM MUFFINS

Prepare like Rye Muffins, using Graham flour or meal instead of rye
meal. A teaspoonful of caraway seed is sometimes added to Rye Muffins.


GRAHAM DROP CAKES

Sift together a cupful and a half of Graham meal, half a teaspoonful
each of salt and soda, and a quarter of a cupful of brown sugar. Add
enough sour milk to make a stiff batter. Drop by spoonfuls on a
buttered baking-tin and bake a quarter of an hour in a quick oven.


GRAHAM MUFFINS--II

Four cupfuls of Graham flour, one tablespoonful of brown sugar, one
teaspoonful of salt, two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one
egg, well beaten, and two cupfuls of milk. Sift the dry ingredients
together, add the beaten egg and milk, mix thoroughly, fill
well-buttered muffin-tins two thirds full and bake in a hot oven about
twenty minutes.


HOMINY MUFFINS

Two cupfuls of cold fine hominy, three eggs, three cupfuls of sour
milk, half a cupful of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one
teaspoonful of baking soda dissolved in hot water, and flour to make a
good batter--probably about a cupful and a half. Add the milk to the
hominy, then the salt, sugar, butter, and eggs, then the soda, and the
flour last. Bake in a quick oven.


HOMINY DROP CAKES

Two cupfuls of cold boiled hominy, one tablespoonful of cold water,
two eggs, well beaten, a pinch of salt, and a teaspoonful of baking
powder sifted into enough flour to make a good batter. Drop by
spoonfuls on a buttered baking-sheet and bake brown in a quick oven.


MUFFINS--I

Sift together four cupfuls of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and two
heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Add a tablespoonful of sugar.
Stir in two cupfuls of milk, four eggs well beaten, and three
tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Bake twenty-five or thirty minutes in
muffin-tins. Half of this recipe is sufficient for a small family.


MUFFINS--II

Two cupfuls of flour, two eggs, one cupful of milk, one teaspoonful of
sugar, one heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, a pinch of salt, and
two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Sift the dry ingredients
together, beat the eggs till very light, mix with the milk and melted
butter. Sift the dry mixture gradually into the milk and eggs,
stirring constantly. Bake twenty-five minutes in muffin-tins.


CREAM MUFFINS

Four cupfuls of flour, four cupfuls of rich milk, six eggs, beaten
separately, two tablespoonfuls of shortening, melted--equal parts of
butter and lard. Bake in buttered muffin-rings half full of the batter
and serve immediately.


BUTTERMILK MUFFINS

Four cupfuls of buttermilk, or of curdled milk, two eggs, a
teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water, a teaspoonful of
salt, and enough sifted flour to make a good batter. Mix thoroughly,
adding the soda last. Bake in a quick oven.


MUFFINS--III

Sift together two cupfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of baking
powder, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of sugar. Add one
tablespoonful of melted butter or lard, one cupful of milk, and one
egg well beaten. Mix thoroughly and bake quickly in muffin-rings.


MUFFINS--IV

Make like Muffins V, using a quarter cupful each of sugar and melted
butter, and two or three eggs, well beaten.


BLUEBERRY MUFFINS

Use any muffin mixture, lessening slightly the quantity of milk. Add a
cupful of blueberries and bake quickly.


MUFFINS--V

Four cupfuls of flour, three eggs, beaten separately, the whites very
stiff, three cupfuls of milk, and a pinch of salt. Beat hard until
thoroughly mixed and bake in a quick oven.


MUFFINS--VI

Six cupfuls of flour, two eggs well beaten separately, two rounded
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, four cupfuls of milk, one teaspoonful
of salt. Sift the dry materials, mix with the eggs and milk, beat
hard, and bake in muffin-tins in a quick oven.


CEREALINE MUFFINS

Three fourths of a cupful of flour, a pinch of salt, one egg, well
beaten, one cupful of cerealine, and one cupful of milk. Bake in
buttered muffin-pans.


BATTER MUFFINS

Three cupfuls of sour milk and one teaspoonful of soda beaten
together. Beat the yolks of three eggs and add to the milk, then stir
in a pinch of salt and flour enough to make a moderately stiff batter.
Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and fold in the last
thing. Bake in buttered muffin-tins.


SOUTHERN MUFFINS

Two eggs, two cupfuls of milk, two cupfuls of flour, a pinch of salt,
and a teaspoonful of melted butter. Beat the eggs separately, then add
the milk and butter to the yolks, then the flour, then the stiffly
beaten whites. Bake in hot buttered muffin-tins.


MUFFINS--VII

Two cupfuls of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one
teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two
tablespoonfuls of sugar, one cupful of milk and one egg, well beaten.
Bake in buttered muffin-tins.


MUFFINS--VIII

Four cupfuls of flour, two and one half cupfuls of milk, three eggs,
beaten separately, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of
salt, one tablespoonful of sugar, and three teaspoonfuls of baking
powder. Sift the dry ingredients together, add the melted butter and
the beaten yolks to the milk, combine the two mixtures, and add the
well-beaten whites of the eggs last. Fill buttered muffin-rings two
thirds full and bake in a hot oven about twenty minutes. Serve
immediately.


SOUR MILK MUFFINS

Three cupfuls of sour milk, three cupfuls of flour, two eggs, well
beaten, one teaspoonful each of soda, cream tartar, and salt. Sift the
dry ingredients together, add the milk, then the eggs, and bake in
buttered muffin-tins in a hot oven.


WHITE MUFFINS

One tablespoonful of soft butter, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, rubbed
to a cream. Add two eggs, well beaten, a pinch of salt, a cupful of
milk, and two cupfuls of flour sifted with two rounded teaspoonfuls of
baking powder. Beat thoroughly and bake in buttered muffin-tins in a
moderate oven.


ENTIRE WHEAT MUFFINS

Sift thoroughly, with three cupfuls of entire wheat flour, two
tablespoonfuls of baking powder, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful
of sugar. Add one and one half cupfuls of sweet milk in which the
well-beaten yolk of an egg has been stirred, and two tablespoonfuls of
melted butter. Add the white of the egg, beaten to a stiff froth, mix
thoroughly, and bake about twenty minutes in hot buttered muffin-pans
in a moderate oven.


HONEY MUFFINS

Sift together three cupfuls of flour, three heaping teaspoonfuls of
baking powder, and a pinch of salt. Add two tablespoonfuls of melted
butter, three eggs well beaten, one cupful of strained honey, and one
cupful of milk. Bake in well-buttered muffin-tins.


GEORGIA MUFFINS

One cupful of milk, one egg, well beaten, two cupfuls of flour, a
pinch of salt, and a teaspoonful of baking powder. Mix thoroughly,
and bake in buttered gem-irons made piping hot before the batter is
put in.


BLUEBERRY MUFFINS--II

One cupful of sugar, two eggs, one cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of
baking powder, butter the size of an egg, melted, and two cupfuls of
flour sifted with the baking powder. Add two cupfuls of blueberries,
stir thoroughly, and bake in buttered muffin-tins in a quick oven.


SWEET MUFFINS

One half cupful of butter and one half cupful of sugar rubbed to a
cream. Add two eggs, well beaten, and mix thoroughly. Add one cupful
of sweet milk and stir and mix thoroughly. Sift three and three
fourths cupfuls of flour and three rounded teaspoonfuls of baking
powder into the muffin mixture, beat again, pour into hot buttered
gem-pans, and bake about half an hour.


PERFECTION MUFFINS

Mix together three cupfuls of flour, one cupful of corn-meal, two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one tablespoonful of sugar, and one
teaspoonful of salt. Work in one heaping tablespoonful of butter or
lard, add three well-beaten eggs and two cupfuls of milk. Beat
quickly into a firm batter. Bake in well-buttered muffin-tins.


NEW HAMPSHIRE MUFFINS

Beat together three eggs and one cupful of milk. Add a pinch of salt
and one teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Sift together two cupfuls of
flour and one heaping teaspoonful of baking powder. Combine mixtures,
beat well, and bake in hot buttered gem-irons. The cups should be
about half full of the batter and the oven only moderately hot.


OATMEAL GEMS

Pour one cupful of boiling water over one cupful of steam-cooked
oatmeal and let it stand over night. Mix one cupful of flour, two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and a half a teaspoonful of salt. Sift,
mix with the soaked oatmeal, and add enough flour to make a batter
that will drop easily from the spoon. Bake in buttered muffin-pans.


POPOVERS

One cupful of flour, measured after sifting, one egg, unbeaten, one
cupful of milk, and a pinch of salt. Butter a gem-pan and put it into
a hot oven. Mix all the ingredients together, stirring hard with a
wooden spoon. When the pan is hissing hot, pour in the batter, filling
each compartment half or two thirds full. Bake in a very hot oven till
well puffed and golden brown, cover with a paper and finish baking.
This quantity makes a dozen popovers.


POPOVERS--II

Two eggs, well beaten, one cup of flour, one cupful of milk, one
teaspoonful of salt. Prepare as above and bake in buttered custard
cups.


FRUIT POPOVERS

Make the batter for Popovers I. Drop a piece of banana, a few
blueberries, or a bit of preserved fruit or jam, or a steamed fig into
each small cup of batter, which will rise in the cup and almost cover
the fruit. These may be served with a simple syrup in place of
pancakes or waffles.


PUFFS

Boil two cupfuls of milk with half a cupful of butter. Stir in one
cupful and a half of sifted flour and let cool. Beat five eggs
separately and add. Fill buttered custard cups half full of the batter
and bake in a quick oven. Serve on a hot plate and sprinkle with sugar
if desired.


RICE MUFFINS

One cupful of cold boiled rice, two cupfuls of flour, two eggs, beaten
separately, two tablespoonfuls of lard or butter, a teaspoonful of
salt, and milk enough to make a thin batter. Beat hard and bake in a
quick oven.


RICE MUFFINS--II

One cupful of milk, one and one half cupfuls of flour, half a cupful
of cold boiled rice, two level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a pinch
of salt, a teaspoonful of sugar, a heaping teaspoonful of butter, and
one egg well beaten. Mix the dry ingredients, then melt the butter and
rub it into the rice, add the egg, then the milk. Combine the two
mixtures, beat well, and bake twenty-five minutes in buttered
muffin-tins in a moderate oven.


RYE MUFFINS

Sift together one cupful each of rye meal and white flour, add two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of
sugar. Mix with one egg, well beaten, and one cupful of milk. Bake in
buttered muffin-rings.


RYE CRISPS

One cupful of rye meal and one half cupful of white flour. Sift into a
bowl with one teaspoonful of baking powder and mix thoroughly with
one third of a cupful of finely minced beef suet. Add half a
teaspoonful of salt, and enough milk to make a soft dough that may be
easily handled with a spoon. Have well-buttered muffin-tins piping
hot. Fill them two-thirds full and bake quickly in a very hot oven.
They should be done in from twelve to fifteen minutes.


SALLY LUNN

Four cupfuls of sifted flour, four eggs, beaten separately, one cupful
of milk, one cupful of melted butter and lard, equal parts, one
teaspoonful of salt, two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Mix,
adding the whites the last thing. Bake in muffin-rings.


SCONES

Spread a rich biscuit or muffin dough in a well-buttered pan, mark
deeply into squares, brush with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle with
sugar.


SNOW BALLS

Make a batter of one cupful of cream--the top of milk will do
nicely--two tablespoonfuls of sugar, the yolks of four eggs, a heaping
teaspoonful of baking powder, and flour enough to mix. Add the whites
of the eggs last, beaten to a stiff froth. Fill buttered cups two
thirds full, and bake in a hot oven.


SCOTCH SCONES

Four cupfuls of sifted flour, one cupful of buttermilk, one
tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of sugar, one half
teaspoonful of baking soda, and one half teaspoonful of salt. Rub the
butter into the flour, add the sugar and salt, stir the soda into the
buttermilk, and mix with the flour. Roll into a thin sheet, cut into
triangles, and bake about thirty-five minutes on a floured tin. Just
before they are done, rub a cloth dipped in milk over the tops and put
back into the oven to glaze.

       *       *       *       *       *

Note.--Sour milk may be made from fresh by keeping the milk some hours
in a warm place, or, more quickly, by adding a little lemon-juice or
vinegar to the amount of milk required.




RAISED BREAKFAST BREADS


Although many recipes included in this section may seem, at first
glance, to be unsuitable for breakfast on account of the length of
time taken for rising, there are ways in which the time can be
considerably shortened.

A competent authority says that any mixture for rolls or muffins can
be made ready for its second rising at night, and kept over night in
any place where the dough will not freeze, or where the temperature is
not so high as to cause too rapid rising and consequent souring of the
dough.

Moreover, rolls or muffins may be baked in the afternoon until done
thoroughly, but not brown, wrapped in a cloth, and put away in a cool
place. In the morning, they need only to be rubbed with melted butter
and set into a hot oven for a very few moments. They will come out
crisp and flaky, and free from all objections on the score of
indigestibility. Bread twice baked is always much more digestible than
fresh bread.

Brioche, the most delicious of all hot breads, needs to stand in the
refrigerator over night, and the second process is a quick one when
the paste is once made. The paste will keep a week or more in a very
cold place, and be the better for it. It is a French dough, for which
many complicated recipes are given, but the following will be found
satisfactory, and not difficult after one or two trials.


BRIOCHE PASTE

One cake of compressed yeast, a pinch of salt, one and one fourth
cupfuls of butter, four cupfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of sugar,
two tablespoonfuls of warm water, and seven eggs. Dissolve the yeast
in the water, adding a little more water if necessary, and rubbing the
yeast cake with a spoon until thoroughly dissolved. Stir in enough
sifted flour to make a stiff dough, rolling and patting with the hands
until thoroughly mixed. Drop this ball of paste into a kettle of warm
water and let stand in a moderate temperature until it has a little
more than doubled in bulk. (Some recipes for Brioche say that the ball
of paste should be light enough to float.) Put the remainder of the
four cupfuls of flour into a mixing bowl, add the sugar, salt, and
butter, softened but not melted, and four of the eggs, unbeaten. With
the hand mix carefully to a paste, beat smooth, and add the rest of
the eggs, unbeaten, one at a time. Take the ball of paste, when
light, out of the warm water with a skimmer, and, still using the
hand, incorporate it carefully with the egg mixture, folding the two
together as lightly as possible. Let rise, in a moderate temperature,
until double in bulk. Then turn the paste on a floured board and pat
and fold with the hands until smooth in texture and inclined to stay
in shape. Let rise once more until very light, then put into the
refrigerator and let stand over night.


BRIOCHE ROLLS

Roll a large lump of Brioche dough into a thin sheet on a floured
board or pastry slab, working lightly and quickly, spread with
softened butter, and fold so that the paste will be in three layers.
Cut in strips an inch wide and twist, working from the ends, and
arrange in circles on a baking-sheet, the ends of the strips pointing
inward. The rolls should be very close together in the pan. Beat the
yolk of an egg, dilute it with as much milk, and brush the rolls with
the mixture. Let them rise a few minutes, then bake about half an hour
in a moderate oven. A little sugar and water may be spread over the
tops if desired.


BRIOCHE BUNS

Shape the chilled paste into small balls, and put a bit of citron or a
few raisins on the top of each one. Let rise a few moments and bake
half an hour in a moderate oven.


BRIOCHE BREAKFAST CAKE

Butter a round cake-tin which has a tube in the centre, fill it half
full of chilled Brioche paste, and let rise till the pan is two thirds
full. Bake in a moderate oven and turn out. It should be torn apart
with the fingers--not cut.


BATH BUNS

Dissolve a cake of yeast in two cupfuls of warm water. Add enough
flour to make a moderately stiff sponge, let rise about two hours.
Cream together one half cupful each of butter and sugar, add one
cupful of lukewarm milk, a pinch of salt, and two eggs, well beaten.
Mix with the sponge, let rise an hour longer, then knead, shape into
buns, arrange close together in a baking-pan, and let rise till very
light. Bake in a moderate oven.

    "_Bath Bunny, Currant Bunny, sang a comic song,
    Bath Bunny, Currant Bunny, sang it loud and long;
    When his friends had told him that he gave them all a pain,
    Bath Bunny, Currant Bunny, sang it twice again._"

    Louis Wain.


ENGLISH BATH BUNS

Dissolve half a cake of compressed yeast in one cupful of milk, and
add two cupfuls of flour, or enough to make a sponge. Let rise until
light, then add two thirds of a cupful of melted butter and four eggs,
well beaten. Knead and let rise again for about an hour. Make into
balls the size of a small apple and press into each one some currants
and bits of candied peel. Let rise ten or fifteen minutes in a warm
place, sprinkle with sugar, and bake.


HOT CROSS BUNS

Rub one half cupful of butter into eight cupfuls of sifted flour, then
add half a cake of compressed yeast dissolved in three cupfuls of
scalded milk. Let rise two hours. Work into the sponge one cupful of
sugar, one cupful of cleaned currants, and half a nutmeg grated.
Knead, shape into buns, arrange in pans, score deeply with a cross,
brush with butter, and let rise fifteen minutes. Bake forty-five
minutes in a brisk oven. This is the genuine English recipe, and the
buns are good at any time, but the cross is made only on Good Friday,
or for Easter.


RISEN MUSH MUFFINS

One cupful of hominy, cerealine, corn-meal mush, oatmeal, rice, or
other left-over cooked cereal, one teaspoonful of butter, one
tablespoonful of sugar, one pinch of salt, one fourth of a cake of
yeast (compressed) dissolved in one cupful of scalded milk, and two
cupfuls of sifted flour. Mix thoroughly and let rise over night. In
the morning, beat well and fill well-buttered muffin-pans half full.
Let rise until double in bulk, then bake half an hour.


FINGER ROLLS

Mix one cupful of scalded milk with one tablespoonful of butter. When
cool, add a teaspoonful of sugar, a pinch of salt, and one half cake
of yeast dissolved in half a cupful of warm water. Add enough flour to
make a soft dough--about three cupfuls. Mix thoroughly, knead for
fifteen minutes, and set to rise in a warm place for three or four
hours. When light, knead again, shape into balls, and roll into
cylinders on a floured board, pointing the ends. Arrange in a shallow
pan, and let rise until double in size--about an hour--glaze with
beaten egg, and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.


SOUTHERN ROLLS

Six cupfuls of flour, two eggs, one cake of compressed yeast, one
cupful of milk, two tablespoonfuls of lard, melted, and a teaspoonful
of salt. Mix as other sponges, let rise five hours, knead, shape into
rolls, let rise two hours longer, and bake about twenty minutes.


FRENCH ROLLS

Eight cupfuls of flour, four eggs, four teaspoonfuls of sugar, one
tablespoonful of butter, one cake of compressed yeast dissolved in two
cupfuls of milk. Mix like other sponges, let rise until light, knead,
shape, let rise the second time, and bake in a moderate oven.


KENTUCKY ROLLS

Four cupfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of
salt, two eggs, half a cupful of lard, and half a cake of compressed
yeast. Mix the lard, sugar, and flour, then stir in the other
ingredients, the yeast being dissolved in a little water, and add
enough milk or warm water to make a thin batter. Let rise in a warm
place, then add enough flour to make a stiff dough, and let rise
again. When light, knead, shape, and put to rise for a third time.
Bake in a quick oven.


ALABAMA ROLLS

Rub two hot baked potatoes through a colander. Stir in one cupful of
melted butter, two eggs well beaten, half a cake of compressed yeast,
dissolved, and mixed with one cupful of sifted flour. Work with the
hand into a smooth sponge, and let rise three hours. Then work into
the sponge two cupfuls of sifted flour and let rise five hours longer.
Knead, make into roll shape, set to rise two hours more, and bake.


CORN ROLLS

To four cupfuls of well-salted hot corn-meal mush add one cupful of
mixed butter and lard and half a cupful of sugar. When cool, add one
cake of compressed yeast dissolved in a little warm water, and set to
rise in a warm place. When light, work in enough sifted flour to make
a stiff dough, knead thoroughly, and let rise again. Late at night,
knead again and set in a cool place over night. In the morning, roll
and cut out like biscuit. Spread half of each circle with softened
butter and roll the other half over it. Let rise a few moments and
bake. If the weather is very warm, add a teaspoonful of soda,
dissolved in a little warm water, to the sponge.


PARKER HOUSE ROLLS

Dissolve one cake of compressed yeast in one cupful of lukewarm water,
and add enough flour to make a thin batter. Put this sponge in a warm
place to rise. Add one tablespoonful of lard, one tablespoonful of
butter, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one teaspoonful of salt to
two cupfuls of milk, and bring to the boil. Take from the fire and let
cool. When the sponge is light stir in the milk, and add enough sifted
flour to make a dough, usually about eight cupfuls, though the
thickening qualities of various brands of flour vary greatly. Knead
for fifteen or twenty minutes, then set to rise until very light.
Shape, place in a baking-pan, let rise once more, and when light bake
in a quick oven.


WHOLE WHEAT ROLLS

One teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, one tablespoonful
of butter, one cake of compressed yeast, one cupful of scalded milk,
and three cupfuls of whole wheat flour. Add the salt, sugar, and
butter to the scalded milk. Dissolve the yeast in two tablespoonfuls
of warm water and add to the milk when it has cooled. Add half of the
flour and beat hard for ten minutes, then work in the rest of the
flour. Set it to rise for two hours. Roll out into a sheet an inch
thick and cut into small rolls. Place close together in a
well-buttered baking-pan, and let rise from fifteen to thirty minutes.
Bake fifteen or twenty minutes in a quick oven. Brush with an
egg-white beaten with a little milk if a glossy surface is desired.
This should be done about ten minutes before taking out of the oven.


SWEDISH ROLLS

Use any plain roll mixture. When shaping for the last rising, roll the
dough very thin, spread with softened butter, sprinkle with sugar and
cinnamon, and add a few cleaned currants, bits of citron, and stoned
raisins. Roll the dough like jelly cake, cut in half-inch slices from
the ends, arrange flat in a well-buttered pan, let rise until double
in bulk, and bake as usual.


PARIS ROLLS

Four cupfuls of milk, one half cake of compressed yeast, six cupfuls
of flour, and the yolks of two eggs, well beaten. Mix thoroughly and
set the sponge to rise. When it is very light, work into it two
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one whole egg, well beaten, one
teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of baking soda dissolved
in hot water, one tablespoonful of white sugar, and enough sifted
flour to make a soft dough. Let rise five hours. Roll out, shape into
balls, score each one deeply crosswise with a sharp knife, and arrange
close together in a well-buttered baking-pan. Let rise for an hour or
more and bake about half an hour. This recipe makes a large number of
rolls. They may be taken from the oven when beginning to turn brown
and wrapped in a cloth. Five minutes in a hot oven, if brushed first
with melted butter, will render them crisp, flaky, and very
digestible.


RUSK

Two cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of melted lard,
half a cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in a little warm water, and
three cupfuls of lukewarm water. Make into a batter, let rise all day
in a warm place. At night work into the sponge six cupfuls of sifted
flour and two eggs, well beaten. Let rise over night in a moderately
cool place. In the morning, shape the dough into rolls, let rise a few
minutes in a warm place, and bake. The dough should be soft. These
rolls may be sprinkled with sugar and spice.


GEORGIA RUSK

One cupful of milk, scalded and cooled, one tablespoonful of sugar,
one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter of a cake of compressed yeast,
dissolved in the milk, and two cupfuls of sifted flour. Set the
sponge, and, when light, work into it half a cupful of melted butter,
half a cupful of sugar, and one well-beaten egg. When very light,
shape into small pointed rolls and let rise again. Brush with milk and
egg and sprinkle with sugar just before baking.


SOUTHERN SALLY LUNN

Four cupfuls of flour, three eggs, one teaspoonful of butter, one cake
of compressed yeast, and two cupfuls of milk. Beat the yolks of the
eggs until very light. Stir in the butter, flour, and milk, the yeast
being dissolved in the milk. Beat the whites to a stiff froth and add
last. Set to rise, and when light bake in well-buttered muffin-tins.


SOUTHERN SALLY LUNN--II

Four cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, two cupfuls of milk,
one half cupful of sugar, and one cake of compressed yeast, dissolved
in the milk. Make a batter and let rise in a warm place about three
hours. Then work into it gradually five eggs, beaten separately, and
one half cupful of melted butter. Add flour enough to make a stiff
batter, fill buttered muffin-tins two thirds full, let rise, and bake.


SOUTHERN SALLY LUNN--III

Three cupfuls of flour, three eggs, one cake of compressed yeast
dissolved in two cupfuls of milk, one half cupful of melted butter,
and one tablespoonful of sugar. Beat well together into a stiff batter
and let rise five or six hours. Then add a little warm water in which
half a teaspoonful of baking soda has been dissolved, and pour the
batter into a well-buttered cake-pan having a tube in the centre. Bake
about three quarters of an hour and serve hot. It should be torn
apart, not cut.


ZWIEBACK

One cake of compressed yeast dissolved in one cupful of scalded milk,
a pinch of salt, and enough sifted flour to make a soft dough. Let
rise until very light, then stir in one fourth of a cupful of melted
butter, one fourth of a cupful of sugar, and one unbeaten egg. Mix
thoroughly, and sift in enough more flour to make a smooth, elastic
dough. Shape into a loaf and let rise until very light. A Russian-iron
bread-pan holding one loaf is best for Zwieback. Let it rise once more
until very light, then bake in a quick oven. Glaze with sugar
dissolved in milk just before taking from the oven. When the loaf is
cold, cut in half-inch slices and place in an open oven until
golden-brown, dry, and crisp.




PANCAKES


The edible varieties of pancakes are readily distinguished from the
poisonous growths. The harmless ones are healthful and nutritious and
grow in private kitchens. The dark, soggy, leaden varieties are
usually to be found in restaurants, but have been known to flourish in
private kitchens also.

Batter for pancakes should be thoroughly beaten. A soapstone griddle
is best, but an iron one will do, and many a savory pancake has come
from a humble frying-pan. A pancake turner is essential, and no
pancake should be turned more than once, as twice turning makes a
soggy pancake from the most promising batter. In the following
recipes, where exact proportions are given, they are not arbitrary as
regards flour. The thickening properties of various brands of flour
vary so much that no exact rule can be given. A perfect pancake batter
will be smooth, light in texture, seem somewhat elastic to the touch
of the mixing spoon, and will keep its shape on a griddle. Batter
enough for one pancake should be dipped from the bowl with a cup or
large spoon, as adding uncooked batter to that on the griddle even an
instant after it has begun to cook will work disaster to the
pancake--and the hapless mortal who eats it.

Maple syrup is the syrup _par excellence_ for pancakes and waffles,
but alas, it is difficult to procure. Much of it is made from corn
cobs and molasses, sealed in tin cans bearing gaudy labels, and,
sailing under false colors, is sold to the trusting consumer at a high
price.

Even the bricks of maple sugar are not wholly trustworthy, though, as
a rule, a better quality of syrup can be obtained by making it at home
from the bricks. The ordinary adulterants cannot so readily be added
to a crystallized as to a liquid product, though promising maple
bricks are often made of brown sugar flavored with a little maple
syrup.

Other syrups can be made easily and may possibly give welcome variety
even to those fortunates who can secure the real maple syrup.
Maraschino, noyeau, kirsch, and other cordials, orange-flower water,
grated orange- and lemon-peel, and the fruit juices left from canned
and preserved fruits, can all be used to advantage in flavoring a
simple syrup made of sugar and water boiled till it hairs from the
spoon. Always add flavoring to syrup just before taking it from the
fire, and do not allow it to boil.


SOUTHERN BUCKWHEAT CAKES

Four cupfuls of buckwheat flour, sifted, one half cake of compressed
yeast dissolved in a little lukewarm water, one teaspoonful of salt,
and one tablespoonful of molasses. Mix with enough warm water to make
a thin batter and set to rise over night. If the batter is sour in the
morning add a bit of baking soda.


QUICK BUCKWHEAT CAKES

Three cupfuls of buckwheat flour and one cupful of white flour, one
cupful each of milk and water, three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking
powder, one teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful of molasses.
Sift the dry ingredients together, mix, and fry as usual.


KENTUCKY BUCKWHEAT CAKES

One cupful of flour, two cupfuls of buckwheat flour, one teaspoonful
of salt, one cake of compressed yeast dissolved in lukewarm water, and
one tablespoonful of molasses. Beat well together and let stand over
night. Fry on a soapstone griddle greased with suet, salt pork, or
bacon. A bit of suet or salt pork tied in a bit of cloth was the
old-fashioned method of greasing a griddle for buckwheat cakes.


BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITH SOUR MILK

Take two cupfuls of thick sour milk, add a teaspoonful of salt, and
enough buckwheat flour to make a thin batter. Let stand over night. In
the morning add a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in two tablespoonfuls
of lukewarm water and beat thoroughly. Fry at once.


CRUMB BUCKWHEAT CAKES

Two cupfuls of buckwheat flour, two and one half cupfuls of warm
water, one cupful of dried bread crumbs, one cupful of milk, one
tablespoonful of salt and half a cake of compressed yeast. Dissolve
the yeast in the water and mix with the buckwheat flour. Add the salt,
beat until well mixed, then cover and let stand over night in a warm
place. Put the dried crumbs into the milk and let soak over night in a
cool place. In the morning, mash the soaked crumbs and toss with a
fork until light and dry, then mix with the risen buckwheat batter and
fry as usual.


BLUEBERRY PANCAKES

Stir one cupful of blueberries into the batter for strawberry pancakes
and fry as other pancakes.


CORN-MEAL PANCAKES

One cupful of corn-meal, one cupful of flour, four cupfuls of milk,
one tablespoonful of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one
teaspoonful of salt, and three eggs. Add the melted butter to the
corn-meal, boil the milk and pour it, scalding hot, over the
corn-meal. Sift the dry ingredients together, and after the meal and
milk have cooled stir the dry mixture into it. Add the well-beaten
eggs last, beat hard, and bake like other griddle cakes.


CORN-MEAL PANCAKES--II

Two cupfuls of corn-meal, one cupful of flour, one tablespoonful of
sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda, one
tablespoonful of melted butter, three eggs, and sour milk to thin the
batter. Scald the meal with enough boiling water to mix it, then add
the sugar and melted butter. Sift the flour and salt together and add
to the meal. Add the eggs, beaten separately, the whites to a stiff
froth, and the soda dissolved in a teaspoonful of warm water. Thin the
batter with enough sour milk to make it of the right consistency and
bake like other pancakes.


CORN-MEAL FLAPJACKS

Two cupfuls of corn-meal, one cupful of buttermilk, half a teaspoonful
of salt, half a teaspoonful of soda, half a cupful of boiling water,
and one egg, well beaten. Mix the salt with the meal, pour over the
boiling water, mix thoroughly and let cool. Add the buttermilk, in
which the soda is dissolved, and the eggs, well beaten. If too thin
add a very little sifted flour. Fry in butter or in equal parts of
butter and lard.


CRUMB PANCAKES

Two cupfuls of bread crumbs soaked in milk until very soft. Add a
pinch of salt, one cupful each of sweet milk and buttermilk, one
teaspoonful of soda and one egg beaten separately, the white to a
stiff froth. Beat hard and add enough sifted flour to make a good
batter--probably about a heaping tablespoonful. Fry in butter on a
griddle.


GREEN CORN GRIDDLE CAKES

One cupful of milk, one cupful of grated green corn, a pinch of salt,
half a teaspoonful of baking powder, one egg, beaten separately, and
enough sifted flour to make a thin batter. Butter the cakes while hot
and serve at once.


DANISH PANCAKES

One cupful of flour, three eggs beaten separately, one pinch each of
salt and soda dissolved in a teaspoonful of vinegar, and enough milk
to make a thin batter.


FLANNEL CAKES

Beat two eggs thoroughly. Add one teaspoonful of salt, one
tablespoonful of sugar, three cupfuls of milk, and enough flour,
sifted in with one teaspoonful of cream tartar and half a teaspoonful
of soda, to make a thin batter. Bake on a greased griddle, butter, and
serve very hot.


FRENCH PANCAKES

One and one half cupfuls of flour, one and one half cupfuls of milk,
one teaspoonful each of salt and melted butter, two teaspoonfuls of
brandy, and four eggs. Beat the yolks of the eggs till light-colored
and creamy, add the other ingredients gradually and fold in the
stiffly beaten whites last. Fry in a very hot frying-pan, using equal
parts of lard and butter to fry in. Bake in small cakes, and after
taking up spread very thinly with marmalade, honey, or jam, and roll
up like a jelly roll. Sift powdered sugar over the rolls and serve at
once, without butter or syrup.


FEATHER PANCAKES

Scald two cupfuls of milk, dissolve in it one half cake of compressed
yeast, and add a teaspoonful of salt. Sift in enough flour to make a
thin, smooth batter, and set to rise over night. In the morning add
to it one cupful of thick sour milk, one tablespoonful of melted
butter, two eggs, beaten separately, one teaspoonful of soda sifted in
with enough flour to make a smooth, thin batter. Let stand twenty or
thirty minutes, then bake as usual.


FRUIT PANCAKES

Add apple sauce, berries, chopped dates, figs or prunes, orange
marmalade, chopped preserved quinces, or any desired fresh fruit or
preserves to any good pancake batter, in the proportion of one heaping
tablespoonful of fruit to each cupful of batter. The grated pineapple
which comes in cans is particularly satisfactory and needs no further
preparation. The fruit juice, sweetened, should be used instead of
syrup wherever possible.


GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES

One cupful of wheat flour and one cupful of Graham flour, sifted with
one teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful of sugar. Beat two eggs
separately, the whites to a stiff froth. Add two cupfuls of thick sour
milk in which a teaspoonful of soda has been dissolved, mix with the
eggs, and stir the flour into the liquid. When the batter is well
mixed, add a heaping tablespoonful of butter, melted, beat hard, and
fry like other griddle cakes.


HOMINY GRIDDLE CAKES

Soak two cupfuls of fine hominy all night and cook it in a double
boiler all day or until soft. When wanted for griddle cakes add two
cupfuls of white corn-meal, sifted, three tablespoonfuls of butter,
melted, a pinch of salt, three eggs, well beaten, and four cupfuls of
milk, or less if necessary, to make a thin batter.


MARYLAND GRIDDLE CAKES

Three cupfuls of flour, three cupfuls of milk, one teaspoonful of
salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and three eggs. Beat the eggs
thoroughly, stir into the milk, sift the dry materials together, beat
hard, and fry at once.


POTATO PANCAKES

Peel eight or ten good-sized potatoes and drop into cold water to
prevent discoloration. Grate rapidly on a coarse grater. To the pulp
add four eggs, well beaten, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and half a
cupful of flour sifted with half a teaspoonful of baking powder. Mix
lightly but thoroughly, and bake on a hot griddle. Serve with butter,
but without syrup. Germans add a little grated onion to potato
pancakes.


RAISED PANCAKES

Four cupfuls of milk, one half cake of compressed yeast, three
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, one
teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of soda, two eggs, and enough
flour for a batter. Scald the milk and cool it, then dissolve the
yeast in it and add the salt and sugar. Add enough sifted flour to
make a smooth, thin batter, cover, and let stand over night in a warm
place. In the morning add the melted butter, the soda dissolved in a
little warm water, and the eggs, beaten separately. Cover and let
stand half an hour in a warm place. Bake like other griddle cakes and
serve immediately.


RAISED PANCAKES--II

Mix one cupful of scalded and cooled milk, in which one quarter of a
yeast cake has been dissolved, with one heaping tablespoonful of
butter, melted, one teaspoonful of sugar, one pinch of salt, and one
cupful of sifted flour. Let rise over night. In the morning add one
egg beaten separately, the white to a stiff froth. Beat to a smooth,
thin batter and fry as usual.


SOUTHERN RICE PANCAKES

Boil one cupful of well-washed rice as directed in the chapter on
Cereals. Add to it one half cupful of cream, two tablespoonfuls of
flour sifted with one tablespoonful of baking powder, and two eggs,
beaten separately, the whites to a stiff froth. Use only enough butter
to keep the cakes from sticking to the griddle and serve as soon as
done.


RICE PANCAKES--II

Mix two cupfuls of boiled rice with two cupfuls of milk and let stand
over night in a cool place. In the morning, add three cupfuls of
sifted flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of melted
butter and one tablespoonful of sugar. Beat until thoroughly mixed,
with two cupfuls of milk and a tablespoonful of baking powder, then
add three eggs, beaten separately, folding in the stiffly beaten
whites last. A cupful of cream may be used instead of the butter.


RICE PANCAKES--III

Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of cold water, and
stir it into two cupfuls of thick sour milk. Add two cupfuls of sifted
flour, a pinch of salt, two eggs, beaten separately, and one cupful of
cold boiled rice. Fry brown on a well-greased griddle.


STRAWBERRY PANCAKES

Six eggs, beaten separately, two cupfuls of milk, two cupfuls of
sifted flour, and one teaspoonful of salt. Mix the flour and salt,
then add the milk and stir in the well-beaten yolks. Beat hard until
the mixture is very light. Then fold in the whites, beaten to a stiff
froth. Bake on a well-greased griddle and serve two to each person,
with butter and crushed and sweetened strawberries between. Sprinkle
with powdered sugar. Half this recipe is sufficient for a small
family.


SOUR MILK PANCAKES

Two cupfuls of sour milk, two and one half cupfuls of sifted flour,
one teaspoonful of soda, one tablespoonful of warm water, one
teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of
melted butter, and two eggs. Beat the yolks of the eggs till
light-colored and creamy, add the sour milk, salt, and sugar, and beat
till thoroughly mixed. Add the flour gradually, beating constantly,
then the soda dissolved in warm water, then the melted butter, then
the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. Fold together carefully and
bake at once.


SOUR MILK PANCAKES--II

To four cupfuls of sour milk add enough flour to make a batter that
will pour, sifted in gradually and thoroughly mixed. Add two eggs,
well beaten, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one teaspoonful of
salt, and a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm water. Bake
on a very hot griddle, well greased.


WHEAT PANCAKES

Three cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of milk, two teaspoonfuls of
baking powder, one tablespoonful of melted butter, three eggs, and one
teaspoonful of salt. Sift the dry ingredients together. Beat the yolks
of the eggs till light-colored and creamy and stir into the milk. Mix
with the flour, then add the melted butter and beat to a smooth
batter. Add a little more milk if the batter seems too thick. Add the
whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, fold in carefully, and
bake as usual.


WHEAT PANCAKES--II

Three cupfuls of milk, two cupfuls of sifted flour, three eggs, one
pinch of salt, and two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat the
yolks of the eggs till light-colored and creamy, and mix thoroughly
with the milk. Put the flour in a bowl and pour on a part of the milk,
making a thick batter. Beat this thick batter hard until very smooth,
dissolve the baking powder in the rest of the milk and add it, beating
thoroughly, and add the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs last. This
batter may be used for waffles. The thinner it is the more delicate
the cakes will be.




COFFEE CAKES, DOUGHNUTS, AND WAFFLES


BABA A LA PARISIENNE

Prepare the yeast as for French Coffee Cake. Beat four tablespoonfuls
of sugar to a cream with one cupful of butter and the grated yellow
rind of a lemon. Add seven unbeaten eggs, one at a time, incorporating
each egg thoroughly into the mixture before the next is added. Make a
sponge of the yeast, one cupful of milk, scalded and cooled, and one
cupful of sifted flour. Let it rise until very light--about half an
hour--and mix with the hand into the egg mixture, adding two more
cupfuls of sifted flour. Butter a tube-pan, put in the dough, sprinkle
with chopped almonds, sugar, and spice, let it rise two hours, and
bake very slowly.


GERMAN COFFEE BREAD

Scald and cool to lukewarm one cupful of milk. Add one heaping
tablespoonful of butter and two heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, one
quarter of a yeast cake dissolved in one tablespoonful of warm water,
a pinch of salt, and enough sifted flour to make a soft dough. Let it
rise over night. In the morning, roll out and spread in a flat
buttered tin. Rub with softened butter, sprinkle with sugar and
cinnamon, and bake about half an hour in a moderate oven. Cut into
squares and serve hot.


GERMAN COFFEE CAKE

One tablespoonful of butter, one cupful of sugar, one egg, one cupful
of milk, one and one half cupfuls of flour, one heaping teaspoonful of
baking powder, the juice and grated rind of half a lemon. Mix
thoroughly, spread the dough in a shallow buttered baking-pan,
sprinkle with chopped nuts, sugar, cinnamon, and dots of butter. Bake
until brown and crisp, cut in squares, and serve piping hot.


AUSTRIAN COFFEE CAKE

Four cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of
baking powder, five eggs, well beaten, with two tablespoonfuls of
sugar, two cupfuls of milk, and one tablespoonful of softened butter.
Mix thoroughly, spread in a buttered baking-pan, dot with butter,
sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, and bake in a quick oven. Serve hot.


HUNGARIAN ROYAL COFFEE CAKE

Six cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of butter, four cupfuls of milk,
three eggs, three quarters of a pound of cleaned and seeded raisins,
one half cupful of sugar, three cakes of compressed yeast, half a
cupful of shredded citron, and eight pulverized cardamon seeds. Mix
the sugar, butter, flour, and milk thoroughly, the yeast having been
dissolved in the milk, previously scalded and cooled. Dredge the fruit
with flour and add last. Let rise four hours, or more, if necessary.
When ready for baking, rub with softened butter, sprinkle with
cinnamon, granulated sugar, and chopped almonds. Bake in a tube-pan or
in a ring on a large baking-sheet.


FRENCH COFFEE CAKE

Dissolve a cake of compressed yeast in two tablespoonfuls of tepid
water. Add a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of sugar. Cream a
cupful of butter with three fourths of a cupful of powdered sugar, and
add, gradually, the unbeaten yolks of six eggs, one at a time, and the
grated yellow rind of a lemon. Sift two cupfuls of flour into a bowl
and make into a thin batter with the dissolved yeast and one cupful of
scalded and cooled milk. Add the egg mixture, and beat with the hand
till the dough leaves the sides of the bowl. Add a handful of
sultanas, half a cupful each of blanched and shredded almonds and
shredded citron, and, lastly, the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs.
Put into a tube-pan which has been well buttered, and set in a warm
place to rise. Bake very slowly. When fully risen and beginning to
brown, rub with softened butter, and sprinkle with sugar and spice.


VIENNA COFFEE CAKE

Dissolve a cake of compressed yeast in one cupful of scalded and
cooled milk, add a pinch of salt and one tablespoonful of brown sugar.
Sift one cupful of flour into a bowl, add the milk and yeast, beat to
a smooth, light batter, free from lumps, and set away in a warm place
till very light. Cream three quarters of a cupful each of butter and
powdered sugar, add four whole eggs, unbeaten, three unbeaten yolks,
and two cupfuls of sifted flour, working with the hand, and adding egg
and flour alternately. Incorporate gradually into the risen batter,
working thoroughly with the hand. Dredge half a cupful of blanched and
shredded almonds, a tablespoonful of shredded citron, and half a
cupful of cleaned and seeded raisins thoroughly with flour, and work
into the dough with the hand. Put into a buttered tube-pan or mould
and let rise in a warm place for three or four hours, then bake an
hour in a moderate oven. When beginning to brown, rub with softened
butter, sprinkle with granulated sugar and spice, and set back into
the oven until done. All risen coffee cakes will keep well if wrapped
closely in a cloth, and may be served cold, or reheated in a brisk
oven for a few minutes just before serving.


BERLIN COFFEE CAKE

Make a sponge with two cupfuls of milk, scalded and cooled, a cake of
compressed yeast dissolved in the milk, a pinch of salt, and one
cupful of sifted flour. Let rise two hours in a warm place, then add
one half cupful of melted butter, one cupful of cleaned and seeded
raisins, one fourth cupful of finely shredded citron, one cupful of
sugar, and three eggs, well beaten. Add enough sifted flour to make a
stiff dough, knead thoroughly, roll into a long thin strip, cut in
three strips, lengthwise, braid, and twist into a ring. Arrange in a
circle on a well-buttered baking-sheet and let rise till very light,
then bake half an hour. It will be more delicate if the strips are
rubbed with softened butter before braiding and will come apart more
easily. Before taking from the oven glaze with sugar and milk, or rub
with butter and sprinkle with sugar and spice.


QUICK COFFEE CAKE

Cream one fourth of a cupful of butter with one cupful of sugar, add
one egg, well beaten, one half cupful of milk, a pinch of salt, and
one and one half cupfuls of flour sifted, with a heaping teaspoonful
of baking powder. Spread in a pan, sprinkle with seeded and cleaned
raisins or currants, a little shredded citron, dot with butter, and
sift over sugar and spice, cinnamon preferred. Serve hot, cut in small
squares.


CRULLERS

Three eggs, a pinch of salt, two cupfuls of flour, three
tablespoonfuls of milk, six tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and six
tablespoonfuls of sugar. Roll out half an inch thick, cut out with a
small cake cutter which has a hole in the centre, and fry in very hot
lard. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with powdered sugar.


PLAIN DOUGHNUTS

Sift two teaspoonfuls of baking powder with four cupfuls of flour.
Dissolve half a cupful of sugar in one cupful of milk. Add to the milk
one teaspoonful of salt, half a nutmeg, grated, and two well-beaten
eggs. Combine with the dry mixture, roll out, cut in rings, and fry in
deep fat. Drain on brown paper.


DOUGHNUTS--II

Half a cupful of butter, one cupful of sugar, three cupfuls of flour,
one egg, and one and one half cupfuls of milk, and a slight grating of
nutmeg. Make into a soft dough, roll out, cut into shapes, and fry in
hot fat. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.


RAISED DOUGHNUTS

One cupful of butter, one cupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of powdered
cinnamon, and two eggs, well beaten. Work this mixture into two
cupfuls of bread dough or roll mixture made ready for its second
rising, and let rise an hour or more. When light, roll out, cut into
circles or squares, let rise until very light, and fry in smoking-hot
fat. Let drain on brown paper and sprinkle with granulated sugar.


LIGHT DOUGHNUTS

Three quarters of a cupful of granulated sugar, two eggs, beaten
separately, one cupful of milk, three tablespoonfuls of melted butter,
three cupfuls of flour, three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder,
and half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Fold in the stiffly beaten
whites of the eggs last, then work in enough more sifted flour to make
a soft dough, probably about two cupfuls. Roll very thin, cut out,
fry in smoking-hot fat, and drain on brown paper. This recipe makes
about five dozen doughnuts, and half of it will be sufficient for an
ordinary family unless they are especially fond of doughnuts.


RAISED FRUIT DOUGHNUTS

Cream together one heaping tablespoonful of butter and one fourth
cupful of sugar. Dissolve one half a cake of compressed yeast in one
cupful of milk that has been scalded and cooled. Add half a
teaspoonful of salt to the milk and yeast, combine mixtures, and work
in two cupfuls of flour. Let rise until double in bulk. Mix together
one half cupful of sugar, a pinch of cinnamon, a grating of nutmeg,
and a pinch of allspice, one half cupful of cleaned currants, cleaned
and seeded raisins, and shredded citron, mixed, and a scant two
cupfuls of sifted flour. Lastly, add one egg, well beaten, knead
thoroughly, and let rise until very light. Cut or tear off pieces of
dough the size of an egg, drop into smoking-hot fat, and fry like
other doughnuts. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with granulated
sugar.


BLUE GRASS WAFFLES

Two cupfuls of thick sour cream, two cupfuls of flour, three eggs,
well beaten, and half a teaspoonful of soda sifted with the flour.
Mix quickly, folding in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs last,
and bake until golden brown and crisp on hissing-hot, well-greased
waffle-irons.


CREAM WAFFLES

Sift together one cupful of flour, three tablespoonfuls of corn
starch, and a pinch of salt. Mix one egg, well beaten, one scant
teaspoonful of soda, and two cupfuls of sour milk together and
gradually combine mixtures, beating hard meanwhile. Bake in hot,
well-greased waffle-irons and butter the waffles before serving.


FEATHER WAFFLES

Four cupfuls of milk, three eggs, beaten separately. Add the milk to
the yolks and a pinch of salt, then add one and one half
tablespoonfuls of rich cream or melted butter and sifted flour enough
to make the batter a little stiffer than pancake batter. Add the
whites of the eggs last, beaten to a stiff froth, and stir in quickly
two teaspoonfuls of baking powder.


GEORGIA WAFFLES

Two cupfuls of flour, a pinch of salt, two cupfuls of buttermilk, one
cupful of melted lard, one scant teaspoonful of soda, and one egg.
Sift the flour and salt together and beat into a smooth batter with
the buttermilk. Add the well-beaten egg, then the hot lard, beat
thoroughly, add the dry soda, beat hard for a minute or two, and bake
in hissing-hot waffle-irons.


HOMINY WAFFLES

One cupful of cold cooked hominy, one egg, well beaten, one
tablespoonful of melted butter, one pinch of salt, two cupfuls of
milk, and two cupfuls of flour sifted with one teaspoonful of baking
powder. Mix thoroughly and bake in very hot waffle-irons, well
buttered.


RAISED HOMINY WAFFLES

To one cupful of cold cooked hominy add two cupfuls of scalded milk in
which one half a yeast cake has been dissolved, one tablespoonful of
butter, melted, a pinch of salt, one tablespoonful of sugar, and two
cupfuls of flour. Mix thoroughly and set to rise over night. In the
morning add two eggs, beaten separately, folding in the stiffly beaten
whites last. Bake in very hot, well-greased irons.


INDIAN WAFFLES

One cupful each of flour and corn-meal, two cupfuls of thick sour
milk, one cupful of sour cream, half a teaspoonful of salt, one
teaspoonful of soda, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two eggs,
beaten separately, the stiffly beaten whites being folded in last.
Bake in a very hot, well-greased waffle-iron and serve very hot.


KENTUCKY WAFFLES

Make a smooth paste of two cupfuls of sifted flour and two cupfuls of
milk, add one half cupful of softened butter, not melted, then the
well-beaten yolks of three eggs, then the stiffly beaten whites, and,
just before baking, one heaping teaspoonful of baking powder. Beat
very hard for five minutes and bake in a hissing-hot iron.


MARYLAND WAFFLES

Beat four eggs separately, the whites to a stiff froth. To the beaten
yolks add a pinch of salt, two cupfuls of milk, and enough sifted
flour to make a stiff batter. Beat hard until perfectly smooth and
free from lumps. Thin the batter by adding gradually the beaten whites
of the eggs, and a little more milk in which a level teaspoonful of
baking powder has been dissolved. Add lastly one tablespoonful of
melted butter or lard. Have the waffle-irons very hot and well
greased, and butter each waffle as soon as done. Crisp light waffles
are delicious when served with cream and sifted maple-sugar.


PLAIN WAFFLES

Two cupfuls of sifted flour, two cupfuls of milk, one tablespoonful of
melted butter, one tablespoonful of melted lard, two teaspoonfuls of
baking powder sifted with the flour, two eggs well beaten, and half a
teaspoonful of salt. Beat thoroughly and have the irons hot before
mixing.


RICE WAFFLES

One cupful of cold boiled rice beaten light with one cupful of milk.
Add one tablespoonful of melted butter, half a teaspoonful of soda
dissolved in a little of the milk, two eggs well beaten, and enough
flour, sifted in with one teaspoonful of cream tartar, to make a thin
batter. Beat thoroughly and bake in well-greased waffle-irons. Cream
tartar and spices are practically certain to be pure when bought of a
druggist instead of a grocer. (Not knocking the groceryman.)


RICE AND CORN-MEAL WAFFLES

One cupful of cold boiled rice, one half cupful each of wheat flour
and corn-meal, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one half
teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water, one teaspoonful of salt,
two eggs, beaten separately, and enough milk to make a thin batter.
The waffle-irons must be very thoroughly greased and the baking must
be done with great care, as these waffles are likely to burn.


SWEDISH WAFFLES

Two cupfuls of cream, whipped stiff, one half cupful of sugar, one egg
beaten with one fourth cupful of cold water, one half cupful of melted
butter, and enough flour, sifted, to make a thin batter. Fold the
whipped cream in carefully just before baking, and sprinkle with sugar
when done.


TENNESSEE WAFFLES

Two cupfuls of sifted flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, one
tablespoonful of melted butter or lard, one egg, beaten separately,
and milk enough to make a thin batter. Bake until brown in a
well-greased waffle-iron.


VIRGINIA WAFFLES

Three eggs, well beaten, two cupfuls of milk, one half cupful of
melted butter, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a pinch of salt, and
enough flour to make a thin batter. Bake in hissing-hot waffle-irons.




BREAKFAST BEVERAGES


The breakfast beverage _par excellence_ is coffee, at least in
American households, but, rather than have coffee poorly made, it is
better to have no coffee at all. The French method of coffee making
has practically superseded the old-fashioned boiled coffee. Cheap
coffee, carefully made in the proper kind of a pot, has a better
flavor than the more expensive brands can possibly have when
improperly made.

The best coffee-pot on the market, which publishing ethics forbid us
to mention by name, is made of nickel, comes in five or six different
sizes, has a close fitting cover, a wooden handle, and has inside a
finely woven wire strainer, which does away entirely with the
questionable, and often unclean, cloth strainer. A cloth, no matter
how carefully kept, will eventually become saturated with the grounds,
and add the flavor of reheated coffee to the fresh brew in the pot.

The nickel coffee-pots having the wire strainer inside are easily kept
clean with boiling water alone, and about once a month may be boiled
out with a weak solution of baking soda.

Various blends of coffee have their champions, and the blended
package coffees are, in the main, very good. It is better to buy in
small quantities, a pound or two at a time, have the coffee pulverized
very finely at the grocery, and keep a watchful eye on the man while
he does it, lest he add alien elements to the coffee. Pulverized
coffee keeps perfectly in ordinary Mason jars, tightly sealed, if
bought in small quantities, as suggested.

The ideal coffee blend is two thirds Mandeheling Java and one third
Arabian Mocha, but very little genuine Mocha ever reaches this
country, though trusting consumers often pay high prices for what the
man says is sure-enough Mocha. Pure Java is easier to get, and South
American, Mexican, Cuban, and Porto Rican coffees are beginning to
deserve consideration.

Presuming that we have the pot and a good quality of coffee, finely
pulverized, we will proceed to brew the nectar of the gods. The water
must be fresh and captured while on its first boil. Scald the
coffee-pot, and put into it one heaping tablespoonful of pulverized
coffee for each person and another for the poor, neglected pot. If the
coffee is desired extra strong, put in another tablespoonful, or even
two. Pour in one cupful of boiling water for each tablespoonful of
coffee, keeping the pot over steam, but never over the fire itself.
Occasionally the grounds may be lifted from the bottom of the strainer
with a spoon in order to hasten the process a bit. The strength of
Samson may be given the brew by pouring out a cupful or two of the
coffee after it is made, and compelling it to go over the ground(s)
again.

Put the desired amount of sugar in each cup, 

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