The Practical Garden-Book
by Charles Elias Hunn · English · Gutenberg #34602 · 509,174 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: The Practical Garden-Book
Author: Charles Elias Hunn
L. H. Bailey
Release date: December 8, 2010 [eBook #34602]
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/34602
Credits: Produced by Juliet Sutherland, S.D., and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PRACTICAL GARDEN-BOOK ***
Produced by Juliet Sutherland, S.D., and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
The Garden-Craft Series
EDITED BY L. H. BAILEY
THE PRACTICAL GARDEN-BOOK
THE
PRACTICAL GARDEN-BOOK
_CONTAINING THE SIMPLEST DIRECTIONS
FOR THE GROWING OF THE COMMONEST
THINGS ABOUT THE HOUSE AND GARDEN_
BY
C. E. HUNN
AND
L. H. BAILEY
_THIRD EDITION_
New York
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., LTD.
1903
_All rights reserved_
COPYRIGHT, 1900
BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
***
Set up and electrotyped March, 1900
Reprinted February, 1901, and June, 1903
Mount Pleasant Press
J. Horace McFarland Company
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Like the love of music, books and pictures, the love of gardens comes
with culture and leisure and with the ripening of the home life. The
love of gardens, as of every other beautiful and refining thing, must
increase to the end of time. More and more must the sympathies enlarge.
There must be more points of contact with the world. Life ever becomes
richer. Gardening is more than the growing of plants: it is the
expression of desire.
As there must be many gardeners, so there must be many books. There must
be books for different persons and different ideals. The garden made by
one's own hands is always the best garden, because it is a part of
oneself. A garden made by another may interest, but it is another
person's individuality. A poor garden of one's own is better than a good
garden in which one may not dig. Many a poor soul has more help in a
plant in the window than another has in a plantation made by a gardener.
I would emphasize the home garden, made by the members of the family. I
would preach the beauty of the common plants and the familiar places.
These things are never old. Many times I have noted how intently an
audience of plant-lovers will listen to the most commonplace details
respecting the cultivation of plants with which they have been always
familiar. There was nothing new in what they heard; but they liked to
have the old story told over again, and every detail called up a memory.
The same questions are asked every year, and they always will be
asked,--the questions about the simplest garden operations. Upon this
desire for commonplace advice the horticultural journals live. A journal
which publishes only things that are new would find little support. Some
of these common questions I have tried to answer in this little book. I
wish them answered in the simple and direct phrase of the gardener.
Therefore I asked my friend C. E. Hunn, gardener to the Horticultural
Department of Cornell University, who lives with plants, to write advice
for one who would make a garden; and this he did in a summer vacation.
These notes, edited and amplified, now make this book.
L. H. BAILEY.
HORTICULTURAL DEPARTMENT,
CORNELL UNIVERSITY.
ITHACA, N. Y., February 22, 1900.
THE PRACTICAL GARDEN-BOOK
***
ABOBRA VIRIDIFLORA. A handsome tender climber with tuberous roots, that
may be taken up in the fall and stored in a cellar. The foliage is dark
and glossy, the flowers small and inconspicuous; but the small scarlet
fruits are very effective in contrast to the leaves, making it a
desirable screen plant. It is sold by seedsmen. Seeds sown as soon as
warm weather comes will give plants which bloom in the open (in a warm
soil and exposure), and which reach a height of 5-8 ft. It is sometimes
grown as a glasshouse plant. It is cucurbitaceous (allied to melons and
gourds).
ABRONIA. Californian trailing perennials, but treated as hardy annuals.
They thrive in any warm, open garden soil, and are very satisfactory for
the margins of beds or borders. The little flowers are borne in
clusters. _A. latifolia_ or _arenaria_ (yellow) and _A. umbellata_ or
_grandiflora_ (pink) are the leading kinds. Usually sown where they are
to bloom. Peel the husk off the seed before sowing.
[Illustration: Abutilon striatum]
ABUTILONS, or FLOWERING MAPLES as they are called by many, make fine
house or bedding plants. Common kinds may be grown from seed or from
cuttings of young wood. If the former, the seed should be sown in
February or March in a temperature of not less than 60 deg. The seedlings
should be potted when from four to six leaves have grown, in a rich,
sandy soil. Frequent pottings should be made to insure a rapid growth,
making plants large enough to flower by fall. Or, the seedlings may be
planted out in the border when danger of frost is over, and taken up in
the fall before frost: these plants will bloom all winter. About
one-half of the newer growth should be cut off when they are taken up,
as they are very apt to spindle up when grown in the house. When grown
from cuttings, young wood should be used, which, after being well
rooted, may be treated in the same manner as the seedlings. The
varieties with variegated leaves have been improved until the foliage
effects are equal to the flowers of some varieties; and, these are a
great addition to the conservatory or window garden. The staple
spotted-leaved type is _A. Thompsoni_. A compact form, now much used for
bedding and other outdoor work, is _Savitzii_, which is a horticultural
variety, not a distinct species. The old-fashioned green-leaved _A.
striatum_, from which _A. Thompsoni_ has probably sprung, is one of the
best. _A. megapotamicum_ or _vexillarium_ is a trailing or drooping
red-and-yellow-flowered species, which is excellent for baskets. It
propagates readily from seed. Abutilons are most satisfactory for house
plants when they are not much more than a year old. They need no special
treatment.
ACONITUM. MONK'S HOOD. WOLF'S BANE. Hardy herbaceous perennials allied
to larkspurs. They are showy border plants, usually flowering the first
year from seed, if the seed is started early, and bearing panicles of
quaint hood-shaped, rich flowers. The colors have a wide range, but are
usually deep blue. The improved varieties are much superior in size and
markings. Aconitums are most effective when planted in a mixed border:
the flower stalks being held well up, show the blossoms to good
advantage. Seed may be sown every two years, as the plants in their
year-old and 2-year-old stage have the largest blossoms. Sow in gentle
heat in March, transplanting to border when the weather is settled.
Roots may be divided if desired, but best results are to be expected
from seedlings. _A. Napellus_ is the commonest one. The plants are very
poisonous if eaten. Bloom in early summer. 2-3 ft.
ACROCLINIUM. A low-growing everlasting annual flower, white, violet, or
rose in color. Seeds should preferably be started in a hotbed or window,
and planted out when danger of frost is past; the flowers should be
gathered when half expanded and hung in the shade to dry. Half-hardy.
Plant 1 foot apart. Grow 10-15 in. high. See _Everlastings_.
[Illustration: Adlumia cirrhosa]
ADLUMIA. MOUNTAIN FRINGE. ALLEGHENY VINE. One of the daintiest of
climbers, making a very rapid growth, and when once established seeding
itself and thriving for years, growing 10 or 15 feet in a season. Give
rich, rather moist soil. It is biennial, blooming the second year.
Flowers like those of the bleeding heart and other dicentras. It is
native.
ADONIS. A low-growing hardy annual or perennial of the easiest culture.
It makes a fine mass effect, as the flowers are a striking dark scarlet
or crimson color, and the plants are very free and continuous bloomers.
Sow early in the spring where wanted. The perennial yellow-flowered
sorts sometimes bloom the first year from seed. Adonises are very neat
in habit, and the foliage is fine and interesting. 10-15 in.
AGAPANTHUS. AFRICAN LILY. A tuberous-rooted, well known conservatory or
window plant. It lends itself to many conditions and proves satisfactory
a large part of the year, the leaves forming a green arch over the pot,
covering it entirely in a well grown specimen. The flowers are borne in
a large cluster on stems growing from 2 to 3 ft. high, as many as two or
three hundred bright blue flowers often forming on a single plant. A
large, well grown plant throws up a number of flower-stalks through the
early season. The one essential to free growth is an abundance of water
and an occasional application of manure water. Propagation is effected
by division of the offsets, which may be broken from the main plant in
early spring. After flowering, gradually lessen the quantity of water
until they are placed in winter quarters, which should be a position
free from frost and moderately dry. The Agapanthus, being a heavy
feeder, should be grown in strong loam to which is added well rotted
manure and a little sand.
[Illustration: Ageratum]
AGERATUM. A half-hardy annual, used as a border plant, for ribbon
bedding for mass effect, or in mixed beds of geranium, coleuses and
other plants. The seeds germinate readily, but as the plant is only
half-hardy and is usually wanted in flower when planted out, it is usual
to sow the seed in boxes placed in hotbeds or windows in March,
transplanting the seedlings to small boxes or pots and growing the young
plants on until the 1st of May, when they may be planted out. Pieces of
young wood root very easily, and the gardener usually increases his
stock by cuttings. The dwarf varieties are the most desirable, and the
two colors, blue and white, may be planted together. 2-3 ft. Plants may
be taken up in the fall and set in the house; cut them back severely.
ALLEGHENY VINE. See _Adlumia_.
ALMOND is about as hardy as the peach, but it blooms so early in the
spring that it is little grown east of the Pacific slope. It is an
interesting ornamental tree, and its early bloom is a merit when the
fruit is not desired. The Almonds commonly sold by nurserymen in the
east are hard-shell varieties, and the nuts are not good enough for
commerce. The Almond fruit is a drupe, like the peach, but the flesh is
thin and hard and the pit is the "Almond" of commerce. Culture the same
as for peach.
Flowering Almond is a very early-flowering bush, excellent for
shrub-borders. It is usually grafted on plum stock, and one must take
care to keep down the plum sprouts which sometimes spring from the root.
ALOE. Succulent tropical plants, sometimes seen in window gardens. Of
easy culture. See that the pots have perfect drainage. Make a soil of
sandy loam, with one-third or one-fourth part of broken brick. Pot
firmly. Water whenever needed, but the soil and drainage should be such
that the earth does not remain soggy or become sour. Aloes thrive year
after year without repotting. Usually propagated by cuttings. _A.
variegata_ is the commonest species.
ALONSOA. Tender annual. Not very well known, but a bright plant for
second-row border or a low bedding plant. Planted against shrubbery or
other protection after danger of frost is over, it lightens up a dark
corner. 2-3 ft. Plant 10-15 in. apart, in a warm place protected from
wind.
ALSTROMERIA. The Alstromerias belong to the amaryllis family, being
tuberous-rooted plants, having leafy stems and terminating in a cluster
of from 10 to 50 small lily-shaped flowers of rich colors. Most of the
kinds should be given pot culture, as they are easily grown and are not
hardy in the open in the north. The culture is nearly that of the
amaryllis,--a good, fibrous loam with a little sand, potting the tubers
in early spring or late fall. Start the plants slowly, giving only water
enough to cause root growth; but after growth has become established, a
quantity of water may be given. After flowering they may be treated as
are amaryllis or agapanthus. The plants grow 1 to 2-1/2 ft. high. The
flowers often have odd colors.
ALTHAEA. See _Hollyhock_.
[Illustration: Sweet Alyssum]
ALYSSUM, SWEET. A low-growing, hardy, white-flowered, very fragrant
annual which is much used for edgings, window boxes, and the like. It is
of the easiest culture in any soil, but thrives best in a garden loam of
moderate fertility. Seeds may be sown as early as the ground can be well
prepared in spring. The plant will begin to bloom when 2 or 3 inches
high, and continue to bloom, as it grows, until after the first hard
frosts. It makes a mat 1 to 2 ft. across. If immediate effects are not
desired, the plants should be thinned out or transplanted to stand half
a foot apart. It rarely stands more than a foot high. In the fall,
plants may be cut back and put into pots or boxes, and they will bloom
in the window. Better results in winter blooming are secured by starting
seeds in boxes in August, September or October. There are certain hardy
perennial yellow-flowered Alyssums which are useful for prominent
edgings and for rockwork.
[Illustration: Prince's Feather]
AMARANTUS. Decorative annuals. One species (with erect spikes) is known
as PRINCE'S FEATHER, another (with variegated foliage) as JOSEPH'S COAT,
and still another (with drooping spikes) as LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING. Probably
the finest of the list is _A. salicifolius_, often called Fountain
Plant. This has graceful willow-shaped leaves, banded and tipped with
carmine, bronze and orange. The tall kinds make fine screens for
unsightly objects. They may also be used against masses of green to add
color. The Amaranths are half-hardy or tender plants, and should be sown
in boxes in March or April, to be planted out after all danger of frost
is past. Seeds may also be sown where the plants are to stand. They were
once among the most popular of garden plants, but for a few years have
been neglected. Fine colors have recently been developed, and they are
again becoming favorites. As they are rather coarse and weedy plants, do
not use them with dainty flowers. Most kinds grow 2-3 ft. high and
spread 2-3 ft.
AMARYLLIS. Popular name of a variety of house or conservatory tender
bulbs, but properly applied only to the Belladonna Lily. Most of them
are hippeastrums, but the culture of all is similar. They are
satisfactory house plants. The one objection to their culture is the
habit of the flower-stalk starting into growth before the leaves start.
This is caused in most cases by stimulating root growth before the bulb
has had sufficient rest. The bulbs should be dormant for four or five
months in a dry place with a temperature of about 50 deg. When wanted to be
brought into flower, the bulbs, if to be repotted, should have all the
dirt shaken off and potted in soil composed of fibrous loam and
leaf-mold, to which should be added a little sand. If the loam is a
heavy one, place the pot in a warm situation; a spent hotbed is a good
place. Water as needed, and as the flowers develop liquid manure may be
given. If large clumps are well established in 8- or 10-inch pots, they
may be top-dressed with new soil containing rotted manure, and as growth
increases liquid manure may be given twice a week until the flowers
open. After flowering, gradually withhold water until the leaves die.
The most popular species for window gardens is _A. Johnsoni_ (properly a
hippeastrum), with red flowers.
AMETHYST. See _Browallia_.
AMMOBIUM. A half-hardy perennial everlasting with white flowers. Thrives
best in sandy soil. Sow seeds where plants are to stand. Although
perennial, it blooms the first year from seed, and is usually treated as
an annual. 2-3 ft. high. Plant 12-18 in. apart.
AMMONIACAL CARBONATE OF COPPER. See under _Bordeaux Mixture_.
ANCHUSA. Hardy annuals and perennials, fit for heavy borders. The plants
grow to the height of 2 to 3 feet and bear purple or blue flowers, which
are showy either on the plant or in bouquets. Propagated from seed sown
in early spring, either where the plants are to stand or in boxes or
hotbeds. The common kind is annual. Blooms in summer.
ANEMONE. WIND FLOWER. A group of hardy perennials. The best known of
this genus is _A. Japonica alba_, or Honorine Jobert. This species
blooms from August to November, and is at that season the finest of
border plants. The pure white flowers, with lemon-colored stamens, are
held well up on stalks 2-3 ft. high. The flower stems are long and
excellent for cutting. This species may be propagated by division of the
plants or by seed. The former method should be put into practice in the
spring; the latter as soon as the seeds are ripe in the fall. Sow the
seed in boxes in a warm, sheltered situation in the border or under
glass. The seed should be covered lightly with soil containing a
quantity of sand and not allowed to become dry. A well enriched,
sheltered position in a border should be given. There are red-flowered
varieties.
[Illustration: Spray of Anemone Japonica]
The varieties of _A. coronaria_ are tuberous-rooted plants. The tubers
of these should be planted in the fall, late in September or early in
October, in a well enriched, sheltered border, setting the tubers 3 in.
deep and from 4-6 in. apart. The surface of the border should be mulched
with leaves or strawy manure through the severe winter weather,
uncovering the soil in March. The flowers will appear in April or May,
and in June or July the tubers should be taken up and placed in a dry
place in sand until the following fall. This section is not as well
known as it should be. The range of color is very wide. The flowers are
often 2 in. across, and are lasting. These tubers may be planted in pots
in the same manner as in the border, bringing them into the
conservatory or house at intervals through the winter, where they make
an excellent showing when in bloom.
The little wild Wind Flowers are easily colonized in a hardy border.
ANNUALS. The annual flowers of the seedsmen are those which give their
best bloom in the very year in which the seeds are sown. True annuals
are those plants which complete their entire life-cycle in one season.
Some of the so-called annual flowers will continue to bloom the second
and third years, but the bloom is so poor and sparse after the first
season that it does not pay to keep them.
Most annuals will bloom in central New York if the seeds are sown in the
open ground when the weather becomes thoroughly settled. But there are
some kinds, as Cosmos and Moonflowers, for which our season is commonly
too short to give good bloom. These kinds may be started early in the
house or in hotbeds; and similar treatment may be given any plants of
which it is desired to secure blooms before the normal time.
[Illustration: A box garden]
Prepare the ground thoroughly and deep. Annuals must make a quick
growth. See that the soil contains enough humus or vegetable mold to
make it rich and to enable it to hold moisture. If the ground is not
naturally rich, spade in well-rotted manure or mold from the woods. A
little commercial fertilizer may help in starting off the plants
quickly. Prepare the land as early in spring as it is in fit condition,
and prevent evaporation by keeping the surface loose by means of raking.
If the flowers are to be grown about the edges of the lawn, make sure
that the grass roots do not run underneath them and rob them of food and
moisture. It is well to run a sharp spade deep into the ground about the
edges of the bed every two or three weeks for the purpose of cutting off
any grass roots which may have run into the bed. If beds are made in the
turf, see that they are 3 ft. or more wide, so that the grass roots will
not undermine them. Against the shrub borders, this precaution may not
be necessary. In fact, it is desirable that the flowers fill all the
space between the overhanging branches and the sod.
Sow the seeds freely. Many will not germinate. Even if they do all
germinate, the combined strength of the rising plantlets will break the
crust on the hard soils; and in the thinning which follows, only strong
and promising plants are allowed to remain. Better effects are also
often secured when the colors are in masses, especially if the flowers
are thrown into the bays of heavy shrub borders.
[Illustration: Flowers against a border]
Plants continue to bloom for a longer period if they are not allowed to
produce seeds. The flowers should be picked, if possible, as soon as
they begin to fade.
In the selection of the kinds of annuals, one's personal preference must
be the guide. Yet there are some groups which may be considered to be
standard or general-purpose plants. They are easily grown almost
anywhere, and are sure to give satisfaction. The remaining plants are
mostly such as have secondary value, or are adapted to particular
purposes or uses.
The groups which most strongly appeal to the writer as staple or
general-purpose types are the following: Petunias, phloxes, pinks or
dianthuses, larkspurs or delphiniums, calliopsis or coreopsis, pot
marigold or calendula, bachelor's button or _Centaurea Cyanus_,
clarkias, zinnias, marigolds or tagetes, collinsias, gilias, California
poppies or eschscholtzias, verbenas, poppies, China asters, sweet peas,
nemophilas, portulacas, silenes, candytufts or iberis, alyssum, stocks
or matthiolas, morning-glories, nasturtiums or tropaeolums.
Annual flowers possess a great advantage over perennials in the fact
that they appeal strongly to the desire for experiment. The seeds are
sown every year, and there is sufficient element of uncertainty in the
results to make the effort interesting; and new combinations can be
tried each year.
Do not cut the old stalks down in the fall. They will stand in the snow
all through the winter, and remind you of the bursting summer time and
the long-ripening fall; and the snow-birds will find them in the short
days of winter.
Some of the most reliable and easily grown annuals for the north are
given in the following lists (under the common trade names):
_WHITE FLOWERS_
Ageratum Mexicanum album.
Alyssum, Common Sweet.
Alyssum, Sweet, compacta.
Centranthus macrosiphon albus.
Convolvulus major.
Dianthus, Double White Margaret.
Iberis amara.
Iberis coronaria, White Rocket.
Ipomoea hederacea.
Lavatera alba.
Malope grandiflora alba.
Matthiola (Stocks), Cut and Come Again.
Matthiola, Dresden Perpetual.
Matthiola, Giant Perfection.
Matthiola, White Pearl.
Mirabilis longiflora alba.
Nigella.
Papaver (Poppy), Flag of Truce.
Papaver, Shirley.
Papaver, The Mikado.
Phlox, Dwarf Snowball.
Phlox, Leopoldii.
Zinnia.
_YELLOW FLOWERS_
Cacalia lutea.
Calendula officinalis, Common.
Calendula officinalis, Meteor.
Calendula sulphurea.
Calendula suffruticosa.
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata.
Calliopsis cardaminaefolia.
Calliopsis elegans picta.
Cosmidium Burridgeanum.
Erysimum Peroffskianum.
Eschscholtzia Californica.
Hibiscus Africanus.
Hibiscus, Golden Bowl.
Ipomoea coccinea lutea.
Loasa tricolor.
Tagetes, various kinds.
Thunbergia alata Fryeri.
Thunbergia alata aurantiaca.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Lady Bird.
Tropaeolum, Tall, Schulzi.
Zinnia.
_BLUE FLOWERS_
Ageratum Mexicanum.
Ageratum Mexicanum, Dwarf.
Browallia Czerniakowski.
Browallia elata.
Centaurea Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact.
Centaurea Cyanus minor.
China Asters of several varieties.
Convolvulus minor.
Convolvulus minor unicaulis.
Gilia achilleaefolia.
Gilia capitata.
Iberis umbellata.
Iberis umbellata lilacina.
Kaulfussia amelloides.
Kaulfussia atroviolacea.
Lobelia Erinus.
Lobelia Erinus, Elegant.
Nigella.
Phlox variabilis atropurpurea.
Salvia farinacea.
Specularia.
Verbena, Black-blue.
Verbena coerulea.
Verbena, Golden-leaved.
Whitlavia gloxinoides.
_RED FLOWERS_
Cacalia, Scarlet.
Clarkia elegans rosea.
Convolvulus tricolor roseus.
Dianthus, Half Dwarf Early Margaret.
Dianthus, Dwarf Perpetual.
Dianthus Chinensis, Double.
Gaillardia picta.
Ipomoea coccinea.
Ipomoea volubilis.
Matthiola annuus (Stocks).
Matthiola, Blood-red Ten Weeks.
Matthiola grandiflora, Dwarf.
Papaver (Poppy) cardinale.
Papaver, Double.
Papaver, Mephisto.
Phaseolus multiflorus.
Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf.
Phlox, Dwarf Fireball.
Phlox, Black Warrior.
Salvia coccinea.
Saponaria.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Tom Thumb.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf.
Verbena hybrida.
Verbena hybrida, Scarlet Defiance.
Zinnia.
_GOOD FOR EDGINGS OF BEDS AND WALKS_
Alyssum, Sweet.
Brachycome.
Collinsias.
Dianthuses or Pinks.
Gypsophila muralis.
Iberis or Candytufts.
Leptosiphons.
Lobelia Erinus.
Nigellas.
Nemophilas.
Portulacas or Rose Moss.
Saponaria Calabrica.
Specularia.
_KINDS WHICH CONTINUE TO BLOOM AFTER FROST_
Abronia umbellata.
Adonis aestivalis.
Adonis autumnalis.
Argemone grandiflora.
Calendulas.
Callirrhoe.
Carduus Benedictus.
Centaurea Cyanus.
Centauridium.
Centranthus macrosiphon.
Cerinthe retorta.
Cheiranthus Cheiri.
Chrysanthemums.
Convolvulus minor.
Convolvulus tricolor.
Dianthus of various kinds.
Elscholtzia cristata.
Erysimum Peroffskianum.
Erysimum Arkansanum.
Eschscholtzias, in several varieties.
Gaillardia picta.
Gilia Achilleaefolia.
Gilia capitata.
Gilia laciniata.
Gilia tricolor.
Iberis affinis.
Lavatera alba.
Matthiolas or Stocks.
Oenothera rosea.
Oenothera Lamarckiana.
Oenothera Drummondii.
Phlox Drummondii.
Podolepis affinis.
Podolepis chrysantha.
Salvia coccinea.
Salvia farinacea.
Salvia Horminum.
Verbenas.
Vicia Gerardii.
Virginian Stocks.
Viscaria elegans.
Viscaria oculata.
Viscaria coeli-rosa.
ANTIRRHINUM. See _Snapdragon_.
APPLE, the "King of Fruits," thrives over a wider range of territory and
under more varied conditions than any other tree fruit. This means that
it is easy to grow. In fact, it is so easy to grow that it usually is
neglected; and people wonder why the trees do not bear.
The selection of varieties of Apples for home use is, to a large extent,
a personal matter; and no one may say what to plant. A variety that is
successfully grown in one section may prove disappointing in another.
One should study the locality in which he wishes to plant and choose
those varieties which are the most successfully grown there,--choosing
from amongst the successful kinds those which he likes best and which
seem best to meet the purposes for which he is to grow them. When the
selection is made, the trees should be procured from a near-by
nurseryman, if possible, as one is then able to select his own trees,
receive them in the shortest time, and plant them before they have
become dry.
The land on which an orchard is to be planted should have been in
cultivation at least two years previous to setting the trees and be in a
fine physical condition. Dig the hole broad and deep enough to take in
all the roots left after pruning off the bruised ends caused by digging
up the tree, and trim back the branches at least two-thirds, making a
smooth cut. Set the trunk in the center of the hole, and sift the fine
dirt down through the roots, slightly lifting the tree once or twice in
order that the fine soil may settle under the roots, making congenial
soil for the new roots to run through. Fill in over the roots, gradually
firming the soil above with the feet. When the hole is full, firm the
soil around the trunk to prevent whipping by the wind, leaving the
surface level. If the trees are set in the fall a slight earthing up to
the trunk may be beneficial in certain soils, and if set in a dry spring
a mulch of straw or grass will benefit them. Two- or 3-year-old trees
(usually the latter) are the most desirable for planting in home
grounds. Commercial orchards are often planted exclusively with
2-year-olds.
[Illustration: Spray of Apples]
In orchard cultivation, Apple trees are usually planted 35 to 40 ft.
apart each way. In home grounds they may be placed somewhat closer than
this, especially if they are planted upon the boundaries, so that the
limbs may project freely in one direction.
It is ordinarily advisable, especially in the humid climates east of the
Great Lakes, to have the body of the tree 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 ft. long. The
limbs should be trimmed up to this point when the tree is set. From
three to five main branches may be left to form the framework of the
top. These should be shortened back one-fourth or one-half when the tree
is set. Subsequent pruning should keep the top of the tree open and
maintain it in more or less symmetrical form. See _Pruning_.
In orchard conditions, the trees should be kept in clean culture,
especially for the first few years; but this is not always possible in
home yards. In lieu of tillage, the sward may be mulched each fall with
stable manure, and commercial fertilizer may be applied each fall or
spring. If fruit is wanted rather than foliage and shade, care should be
taken not to make ground too rich but to keep it in such condition that
the tree is making a fairly vigorous growth, with good strong foliage,
but is not overgrowing. An Apple tree in full bearing is usually in good
condition if the twigs grow from 10 to 18 in. each season. All
leaf-eating insects may be kept off by spraying with Paris green. The
Appleworm or codlin-moth may be kept in check by spraying with Paris
green as soon as the blossoms fall, and again a week or ten days later.
The leaf blight or apple-scab fungus may be kept in check by spraying
with Bordeaux mixture just before the flowers open, and again after they
fall (see _Spraying_). A close watch should be kept for borers. Whenever
the bark appears to be dead or sunken in patches, remove it and search
for the cause. A borer will usually be found underneath the bark. About
the base of the tree the most serious injury occurs from borers, since
the insect which enters there bores into the hard wood. His presence can
be determined by the chips which are cast from his burrows. The only
remedy is to dig out the larvae. If they have got far into the wood, they
can be killed by running a flexible wire into the burrows.
Apple trees should begin to bear when three to five years planted, and
at ten years should be bearing good crops. With good treatment, they
should continue to bear for thirty or more years. It is cheaper to buy
trees from the nursery than to attempt to raise them for oneself.
The dwarf Apples are secured by grafting any variety on the Paradise or
Doucin stocks, which are simply small-growing varieties of Apples.
Dwarfs are much used in the Old World. There is no reason why they
should not be used for home gardens in this country. They may be planted
8 to 10 ft. apart, and trained in various ways. The body or trunk should
not be more than 1 or 2 ft. long. The top should be headed-in each year
a third or a half of the annual growth. Dwarfs bear sooner than
standards. A dwarf in full bearing should produce from a peck to a
bushel of apples. Usually only the finer or dessert variety of Apples
should be grown on dwarf trees.
Many of the local varieties of Apples are excellent for home use. From
the following list of dessert varieties, one can select a good
assortment for the home garden:
_Summer._--Early Joe, Primate, Garden Royal, Summer Pearmain, Early
Harvest, Summer Rose, Sweet Bough, Summer Queen, Early Strawberry,
Williams Favorite.
_Fall._--Chenango, Dyer, Jefferis, Jersey Sweet, Maiden Blush,
Gravenstein, Fall Pippin, Mother (late fall to winter), Twenty Ounce.
_Winter._--Newtown Pippin, Golden Russet, Bellflower, Belmont, King
(late fall S. of N. Y.), Grimes Golden, Melon, Hubbardston (Nonesuch),
Northern Spy, Jonathan, Fameuse or Snow, Lady, Rambo, Canada Red, York
Imperial, Pomme Gris, Esopus Spitzenburg, Swaar, Peck Pleasant, Rhode
Island Greening, Tallman Sweet, Sutton Beauty, Wagener, Seek-no-further.
APRICOT. This fruit, usually thought to be too tender for the winters in
the latitude of New York, has proved as hardy as the peach. Given the
right conditions as to soil and exposure, it will yield abundant crops,
ripening its fruits about three weeks in advance of early peaches. It
would seem that more attention should be given to its cultivation. In
western New York commercial orchards are now producing crops of as fine
fruit as that brought from California. The introduction of the Russian
varieties, a few years ago, added to the list several desirable kinds
that have proved hardier and a little later in blooming than the old
kinds. The fruits of the Russian varieties, while not as large as the
other varieties, fully equal many of them in flavor, and they are very
productive. The soil for Apricots should be rather dry; especially
should the subsoil be such that no water may stand around the roots. The
exposure should be to the north or west to retard the blooming period,
as the one great drawback to their successful fruiting is the early
blooming and subsequent freezing of the flowers or small fruits.
The two serious difficulties in the growing of Apricots are the ravages
of the curculio (see _Plum_) and the danger to the flowers from the
spring frosts. It is usually almost impossible to secure fruits from one
or two isolated Apricot trees, because the curculios will take them all.
It is possible, also, that some of the varieties need cross-pollination.
The Apricot usually thrives best on strong soil; but otherwise the
treatment which is given the peach suits the Apricot very well. The
Russian varieties bear more profusely and with less care than the
old-fashioned and larger kinds. Amongst the best kinds of Apricots are
Montgamet, Jackson, Royal, St. Ambroise, Early Golden, Harris, Roman and
Moorepark. In the east, Apricots are commonly worked on plums, but they
also thrive on the peach.
AQUARIUM. A pleasant adjunct to a living room or conservatory is a large
glass globe or glass box containing water, in which plants and animals
are living and growing. A solid glass tank or globe is better than a box
with glass sides, because it does not leak, but the box must be used if
one wants a large Aquarium. For most persons it is better to buy the
Aquarium box than to attempt to make it. Four things are important in
making and keeping an Aquarium (according to Miss Rogers, in Cornell
Nature-Study Leaflet No. 11):
"(1) The equilibrium between plant and animal life must be secured and
maintained. Animals do not thrive in water where no plants are growing.
Nature keeps plants and animals in the same pond, and we must follow her
lead. The plants have three valuable functions in the Aquarium. First,
they supply food for the herbivorous creatures. Second, they give off a
quantity of oxygen which is necessary to the life of the animals. Third,
they take up from the water the poisonous carbonic acid gas which passes
from the bodies of the animals. Just how the plants do this is another
story. (2) The Aquarium must be ventilated. Every little fish, snail and
insect wants air. A certain quantity of air is mixed with the water, and
the creatures must breathe that or come to the surface for their
supply. How does Mother Nature manage the ventilation of her aquaria,
the ponds and streams? The plants furnish part of the air, as we have
seen. The open pond, whose surface is ruffled by every passing breeze,
is constantly being provided with fresh air. A tadpole or a fish can no
more live in a long-necked bottle than a boy can live in a chimney. (3)
The temperature should be kept between 40 deg. and 50 deg. Fahr. Both
nature and experience teach us this. A shady corner is a better place
for the Aquarium than a sunny window on a warm day. (4) It is well to
choose such animals for the Aquarium as are adapted to life in still
water. Unless one has an arrangement of water pipes to supply a constant
flow of water through the Aquarium, it is best not to try to keep
creatures that we find in swift streams. Practical experience shows that
there are certain dangers to guard against. Perhaps the most serious
results come from overstocking. It is better to have too few plants or
animals than too many of either. A great deal of light, especially
bright sunlight, is not good for the Aquarium. A pond that is not shaded
soon becomes green with a thick growth of slime, or algae. This does not
look well in an Aquarium, and is apt to take up so much of the
plant-food that the other plants are starved out. The plants in the
school-room window will shade the Aquarium nicely, just as the trees and
shrubs on its banks shade the pond. If we find this slime forming on the
light side of our miniature pond we put it in a darker place, shade it
heavily so that the light comes in from the top only, and put in a few
more snails. These will make quick work of the green slime, for they are
fond of it, if we are not."
The aquatic plants of the neighborhood may be kept in the
Aquarium,--such things as myriophyllums, charas, eel-grass, duckmeats or
lemnas, cabomba or fish grass, arrowleafs or sagittaria, and the like;
also the parrot's feather, to be bought of florists (a species of
myriophyllum). Of animals, there are fishes (particularly minnows),
water insects, tadpoles, clams, snails. If the proper balance is
maintained between plant and animal life, it will not be necessary to
change the water so frequently.
AQUATICS AND BOG PLANTS. Many water plants are easily grown, and make a
fine addition to the home garden. The sedges and other bog plants, the
cyperus or umbrella plant, the common wild water lily, and in large
grounds the nelumbium or Egyptian lotus, all may be grown with ease. For
restricted grounds any of these, with the exception of the nelumbium,
may be grown in tubs made by sawing an oaken barrel in two, filling each
half from one-third to one-half with soil composed of good loam, sand
and leaf-mold, setting the plants well into the soil and filling the
tubs with water. These tubs should be sunk to the rim in the borders or
lawn, both for a good appearance and to prevent too great evaporation.
By a little care in filling with water, these plants may be well grown
through the hottest weather. Most of the foreign water lilies are not
hardy, but some of them may be grown with ease if the pond is covered in
winter.
Native Aquatics may be colonized in streams or ponds. If artificial
ponds are to be made, do not get them too deep. A foot or 15 inches is
sufficient depth of water to stand above the crowns of the plants; and
the greatest depth of water should not be more than 2-1/2 ft. for all
kinds of water lilies. Half this depth is often sufficient. The soil
should be 1 to 2 ft. deep, and very rich. Cow manure may be mixed with
rich loam. Roots of hardy water lilies may be planted as soon as the
pond is clear of frost, but the tender kinds (which are also to be taken
up in the fall) should not be planted till it is time to plant out
geraniums. Sink the roots into the mud so that they are just buried, and
weight them down with a stone or clod. In cold climates, protect the
pond of hardy Aquatics by throwing boards over the pond and covering
with hay, straw or evergreen boughs. It is well to supply an additional
depth of water as a further protection.
AQUILEGIA. COLUMBINE. These hardy perennials are general favorites for
borders and rockwork. Blooming early in the season, they may be said to
head the procession of the perennials. The ease with which they may be
cultivated, their freedom of bloom, their varied colors and odd shape
entitle them to the front rank among hardy plants. They are propagated
by division of the plants in the spring or from seed sown in the fall.
Seedlings may be expected to bloom well the second year. They require a
moist, partially sheltered situation, with exposure to the sun. The
common wild Columbine (often called "honeysuckle") is easily grown and
is very attractive. Clumps of Columbine should stand 12-18 in. apart.
2-3 ft. high.
ARAUCARIA, or NORFOLK ISLAND PINE, is now sold in pots by florists as a
window plant. The common species (_A. excelsa_) is most excellent for
this purpose, making a symmetrical evergreen subject. It keeps well in a
cool window, or on the veranda in the summer. Protect it from direct
sunlight, and give plenty of room. If the plant begins to fail, return
it to the florist for recuperation.
ARGEMONE. See _Prickly Poppy_.
ARISTOLOCHIA, or DUTCHMAN'S PIPE. A strong, woody twiner with very
large, heavy leaves, forming a dense screen and having peculiarly shaped
flowers. But one species is considered hardy north, _A. Sipho_. This
will grow without special treatment and prove a satisfactory ornamental
screen or porch plant. Reaches a height of 20 or 30 ft. Young plants
need some protection in cold winters.
ARTICHOKE. A tall, coarse perennial of the thistle tribe, producing
flower-heads which are edible. When once established, it will last in
bearing for a number of years. While this plant is not generally grown
in this country, its merit as a supplementary vegetable for salads or
cooking is great. It is usually grown from suckers from the root, but a
start can be made by sowing the seed. Sow in a border or seed box and
transplant to the garden in early summer; and the following year a crop
may be had. The parts of the plant used are the flower-heads and the
young suckers, the former boiled or eaten raw as a salad. The young
shoots may be tied together and blanched, using them like asparagus or
Swiss chard. The fleshy scales of the head and the soft "bottom" of the
head are the parts used. But few of these plants would be needed for a
family, as they produce a number of flower-heads to a plant and a
quantity of suckers. The plants should be set from 2 to 3 ft. apart in
the row, the rows being 3 ft. apart. This vegetable is not quite hardy
in the north, but a covering of leaves or barnyard litter to the depth
of a foot will protect them well. The plant, being a perennial, will
continue to yield for a number of years under good cultivation. These
plants make no mean decorative subjects, either massed or in a mixed
border, and from the rarity of their culture are always objects of
interest.
ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM, is a wholly different plant from the above,
although it is commonly known as "Artichoke" in this country. It is a
species of sunflower which produces potato-like tubers. These tubers may
be used in lieu of potatoes. They are very palatable to hogs; and when
the plant becomes a weed--as it often does--it may be exterminated by
turning the hogs into it. Hardy.
ARUNDO, or REED, is one of the best of bold and ornamental grasses,
excellent for the center of a large formal bed, or for emphatic points
in a mixed border. It is perennial and hardy in the northern states, but
it is advisable to give it a mulch on the approach of winter. Thrives in
any rich soil, doing best where somewhat moist. 8-12 ft. The clumps
enlarge year by year.
ASPARAGUS. A hardy herbaceous perennial, much grown for the soft,
edible, early spring shoots. The culture of this, the finest of early
vegetables, has been simplified in the past few years, and at present
the knowledge required to successfully plant and grow a good supply need
not be that of a professional. The old method of excavating to the depth
of 3 ft. or more, throwing in from 4 to 6 in. of broken stone or bricks
for drainage, then filling to within 16 to 18 in. of the surface with
well rotted manure, with 6 in. of soil upon which to set the roots, has
given place to the simple practice of plowing or digging a trench from
14 to 16 in. deep, spreading well rotted manure in the bottom to the
depth of 3 or 4 in.; when well trodden down covering the manure with 3
or 4 in. of good garden soil, then setting the plants, with the roots
well spread out, covering carefully with soil to the level of the
garden, and firming the soil with the feet. This will leave the crowns
of the plants from 4 to 5 in. below the surface. In setting, 1-year-old
plants will prove more satisfactory than older ones, being less liable
to suffer from injury to the root system than those which have made a
larger growth. Two years after setting the crop may be cut, but not
sooner if a lasting bed is desired, as the effort to replace the stalks
has a tendency to weaken the plant unless the roots are well
established. The yearly treatment of an Asparagus bed consists of
cleaning off tops and weeds in the fall and adding a dressing of well
rotted manure to the depth of 3 or 4 in., this manure to be lightly
forked into the bed the following spring; or, the tops may be allowed to
stand for winter protection and the mulch left off. A top-dressing of
nitrate of soda, at the rate of 200 pounds per acre, is often beneficial
as a spring stimulant, especially in the case of an old bed. Good
results will also follow an application of bone meal or superphosphate
at the rate of from 300 to 500 pounds per acre. The practice of sowing
salt on an Asparagus bed is almost universal. Still, beds that have
never received a pound of salt are found to be as productive as those
having received an annual dressing. Nevertheless, a salt dressing is
recommended. In stubborn, heavy soil the best method to pursue in making
a permanent bed would be to throw out all the dirt from the trench and
replace with good, fibrous loam. Two rows of Asparagus 25 ft. long and 3
ft. apart would supply a large family with an abundance throughout the
season, and if well taken care of will last a number of years. Conover's
Colossal is the variety most generally grown, and is perhaps the most
satisfactory sort. Palmetto, a variety originating at the south, is also
very popular. A newer variety, called Donald White, originating near
Elmira, N. Y., is recommended by the trade.
ASPERULA. Hardy annuals and perennials. The low-growing Asperula, with
its blue or white flowers, is not as often used as it should be. The
profusion of small flowers and the long season entitle it to a place in
low borders. The flowers have a pleasing fragrance. Asperulas may be
used effectively on rockwork. The common white species, or Woodruff,
grows less than 1 foot. Grown readily from seeds, and blooms the first
year. All Asperulas thrive best in a rather moist soil.
ASTERS, CHINA. Half-hardy annuals, of easy culture. The China Aster has
been for years a great favorite in both old-fashioned and modern
gardens. With the improvements in shapes and colors, they are now the
rivals of the chrysanthemum. As early as 1731 single white and red
Asters were grown and described in England, and by 1845 they are
mentioned as being very numerous in New England. The Germans were,
perhaps, the first to improve the Asters, and the type most admired and
sought fifty years ago was the full-quilled varieties. Now, however, the
informal type replaces the stiff, formal quilled flowers of that period.
Compare the Comet Aster of to-day with the Asters of even twenty years
ago, and note the looseness of its broad rays, giving an artistic value
far beyond the tall, stiff, purple-blue or whites of that period.
[Illustration: China Aster]
The early Asters will bloom in August if the seed is sown in the open
early in the season. They are represented by the Queen of the Market and
Queen of Spring, either of which, if started in a hotbed or window, will
begin to bloom the last of July. The Queen of the Market is probably the
freest of growth, and with its long stems makes a very desirable variety
for cut-flowers. In fact, in the rich, mellow soil in which Asters
delight, this variety is likely to have its large flowers on stems so
long and slender that the plants will need stakes.
The Victoria Asters hold a well deserved place among the leading
varieties, and with high culture will generally lead in size and
profusion of bloom, the colors ranging from white to the darkest blue.
The plants are also well adapted to pot culture. The chrysanthemum-flowered
Asters, both tall and dwarf, are excellent, as are the Truffaut
Perfection and Peony-flowered. The Comet Asters are amongst the best.
The New Branching type is now in great favor.
The culture of China Asters is easy. For early bloom the seeds should be
sown in March in boxes of light soil and covered one-quarter of an inch
with soil, the soil pressed down or firmed over them and the boxes
placed in a hotbed or a sunny window and attention given to watering.
When the seedlings are one inch high they should be transplanted to
other boxes, setting the plants 3 inches apart or put into 2-inch pots.
These should be again placed in a frame and grown along until the ground
has become comparatively warm. The soil will need to be well enriched,
mellow, and if slightly moist under the surface the results will be all
that could be wished. Asters will grow fairly well on rather light soil,
even if not very rich, but the best results can only be obtained when
the highest culture is given. If the rust attacks the plants, spray
with ammoniacal carbonate of copper.
[Illustration: Spray of wild Aster]
ASTER, NATIVE. Wild Asters are one of the glories of the American
autumn. They grow almost everywhere in the north and east,--along
roadsides, in meadows and swales. Their colors range from pure white to
pink, and purple, and blue. From August until winter closes in, they are
conspicuous features of the landscape, vying with the goldenrods in form
and color, but surpassing them in color-range. Most of them are greatly
improved when transferred to the border. They become more attractive in
general habit, and the flowers are usually more profuse and sometimes
larger. They are of the easiest possible culture. They can be removed to
home grounds in the fall or spring, and, with little care until they are
established, will make most attractive displays of autumn color. The
species are numerous and much confused, and it is not necessary to make
a list of them here. Because of their free and careless habit, they are
better adapted to planting in borders than in the formal flower beds.
[Illustration: Wild Asters]
AUBRIETIA DELTOIDEA. A very handsome little trailing hardy perennial,
covered with attractive purple flowers in early spring. Should be
planted in masses for best effect. Propagated by cuttings or seeds,
usually the latter. Excellent for rockwork and permanent low edgings.
AURICULA. A half-hardy perennial of the Primrose tribe (_Primula
Auricula_), very popular in Europe, but little grown in this country on
account of the hot, dry summers. In this country usually propagated by
seed, as for Cineraria; but special varieties are perpetuated by
offsets. Seeds sown in February or March should give blooming plants
for the next February or March. Keep the plants cool and moist, and away
from the direct sun during the summer. Gardeners usually grow them in
frames. In the fall, they are potted into 3-inch or 4-inch pots, and
made to bloom either in frames as for violets or in a cool conservatory
or greenhouse. In April, after blooming has ceased, repot the plants and
treat as the previous year. From the best plants, offsets may be taken
and treated the same as seedlings. As with most annual-blooming
perennials, best results are to be expected with year-old or 2-year-old
plants. Auriculas grow 6-8 in. high. Colors white and many shades of red
and blue.
AZALEAS are less grown in this country than in Europe, largely because
of our hot, dry summers and severe winters. There are two common types
or classes,--the hardy or Ghent Azaleas, and the Indian Azaleas.
Ghent Azaleas thrive in the open along the seacoast as far north as
southern New England. They require a sandy, peaty soil, and are treated
as other shrubs are. The large flower-buds are liable to injury from the
warm suns of late winter and early spring, and to avoid this injury the
plants are often protected by covers or shades of brush. In the interior
country, little attempt is made to flower Azaleas permanently in the
open, although they may be grown if carefully tended and well protected.
Both Ghent and Indian Azaleas are excellent pot-plants, for bloom in
late winter and spring. The plants are imported in great numbers from
Europe, and it is better to buy these plants than to attempt to
propagate them. Pot them up in large-sized pots, keep them cool and
backward for a time until they are established, then take them into a
conservatory temperature, in which carnations and roses thrive. They
should be potted in a soil made of half peat or well decayed mold and
half rich loam; add a little sand. Pot firmly, and be sure to provide
sufficient drainage. Keep off red spider by syringing. After blooming,
the plants may be thinned by pruning out the straggling growths, and
repotted. Set them in a frame or in a semi-shaded place during summer,
and see that they make a good growth. The wood should be well ripened in
the fall. After cold weather sets in, keep the Indian or evergreen kinds
half-dormant by setting them in a cool, dull-lighted cellar or pit,
bringing them in when wanted for bloom. The Ghent or deciduous kinds may
be touched with frost without injury; and they may be stored in a cellar
until wanted.
BACHELOR'S BUTTON. _Centaurea Cyanus_ and also _Gomphrena_. Sometimes
applied to double-flowered Crowfoots.
[Illustration: Balloon Vine]
BALLOON VINE, or CARDIOSPERMUM. Annual tender tendril climber of very
rapid growth. Seed should not be planted until the soil becomes warm. A
very pretty effect can be had by allowing the vine to run over some
coarser vine, or into an evergreen tree. The balloon-like capsules show
to good advantage between the leaves. It is also useful for covering
piles of brush. Grows 8-12 ft. high. Give a warm, sunny place.
BALSAMS, or IMPATIENS. Tender annuals, producing both single and double
flowers of many colors. These well known favorites are usually to be
found in old-fashioned gardens. They are very likely to seed themselves,
coming up in unexpected places and flourishing in neglect. They do best,
however, in rich, sandy soil. If the seed is sown in boxes late in April
and the plants transplanted several times they will be much dwarfer and
the flowers much more double. A stately, though very formal and stiff,
effect may be had by planting a row of Balsams in the rear of a low
border, pinching off all the side shoots as they start and growing the
plant to a single stem. This will become covered with the large blooms,
giving it the appearance of a perfect column of flowers. Balsams are
injured by the slightest frost. Seeds germinate quickly. Plants should
stand 12-18 in. apart. They grow 18-30 in. high.
BARTONIA. Hardy annual, with golden yellow, brilliant flowers. The
tall-growing Bartonia (_B. aurea_) may be used in a mixed border to good
advantage. It is a bushy plant, reaching 2-3 ft. high. The dwarf kind
may be used as a border plant or in a rock garden, or as an edging. The
fragrance of both tall and dwarf is very pronounced in the evening. The
Bartonias are very easy to grow in a warm soil and sunny exposure. Their
numerous thread-like, long stamens are very interesting.
BASKET PLANTS. In order to have a good hanging basket, it is necessary
that some provision be made to prevent too rapid drying out of the
earth. It is customary, therefore, to line the pot or basket with moss.
Open wire baskets, like a horse muzzle, are often lined with moss and
used for the growing of plants. Prepare the earth by mixing some well
decayed leaf-mold with rich garden loam, thereby making an earth which
will retain moisture. Hang the basket in a light place, but still not in
a direct sunlight; and, if possible, avoid putting it where it will be
exposed to drying wind. In order to water the basket, it is often
advisable to sink it into a pail or tub of water. Various plants are
well adapted to hanging baskets. Among the drooping or vine-like kinds
are the strawberry geranium, Kenilworth ivy, maurandya, German ivy,
canary-bird flower, _Asparagus Sprengeri_, ivy geranium, trailing
fuchsia, wandering Jew, and othonna. Among the erect-growing plants
which produce flowers, _Lobelia Erinus_, sweet alyssum, petunias,
oxalis, and various geraniums are to be recommended. Among foliage
plants such things as coleus, dusty miller, begonia, and some geraniums
are adaptable.
[Illustration: Climax basket]
BASKETS. For the picking and handling of fruit in the home garden, the
common Climax basket, in various sizes, is the best receptacle. In
these baskets the products may be sold. When the baskets are sent to
market or to a friend, they should be neat and new looking; therefore
keep them in a dry, dark place, as in an attic or loft, to prevent them
from becoming warped and discolored.
BEAN. Under the general name of Bean, many kinds of plants are
cultivated. They are all tender, and the seeds, therefore, should not be
planted until the weather is thoroughly settled; and the soil should be
warm and loose. They are all annuals in northern countries, or treated
as such.
The Bean plants may be classified in various ways. In respect to
stature, they may be thrown into three general categories; viz., the
pole or climbing Beans, the bush Beans, and the strict-growing or
upright Beans (as the Broad or Windsor Bean). In respect to their uses,
Beans again may be divided into three categories; viz., those which are
used as string or snap Beans, the entire pod being eaten; those which
are used as shell Beans, the full-size but immature Beans being shelled
from the pod and cooked; dry Beans, or those which are eaten in their
dry or winter condition. The same variety of Bean may be used for all of
these three purposes at different stages of its development; but as a
matter of fact, there are varieties which are better for one purpose
than the other. Again, Beans may be classified in respect to their
species. Those species which are best known are as follows: (1) Common
Bean, or _Phaseolus vulgaris_, of which there are both tall and bush
forms. All the common snap and string Beans belong here, as also the
Speckled Cranberry types of pole Beans, and the common field Beans. (2)
The Lima Beans, or _Phaseolus lunatus_. The larger part of these are
pole Beans, but lately dwarf or bush varieties have appeared. (3) The
Scarlet Runner, _Phaseolus multiflorus_, of which the Scarlet Runner
and White Dutch Runner are familiar examples. The Scarlet Runner is
usually grown as an ornamental vine, and it is perennial in warm
countries, but the Beans are edible as shelled Beans. The White Dutch
Runner is oftener cultivated for food. (4) The Yard-Long, or Asparagus
Bean, _Dolichos sesquipedalis_, which produces long and weak vines and
very long, slender pods. The green pods are eaten, and also the shelled
Beans. The French Yard-Long is the only variety of this type which is
commonly known in this country. This type of Bean is popular in the
Orient. (5) The Broad Beans, of which the Windsor is the common type.
These are much grown in the Old World for stock feed, and they are
sometimes used for human food. They grow to one strict, central, stiff
stalk, to a height of 2-4 or 5 ft., and they are very unlike other kinds
of Beans in appearance. In this country, they are very little grown on
account of our hot and dry summers. In Canada they are somewhat grown,
and are sometimes used in the making of ensilage.
The culture of the Bean, while of the easiest, often proves a failure as
far as the first crop is concerned, because of planting the seed before
the ground has become warm and dry. No vegetable seed will decay quicker
than Beans, and the delay caused by waiting for the soil to become warm
and free from excessive moisture will be more than made up by the
rapidity of growth when finally they are planted. Beans will grow in
most any soil, but the best results may be obtained by having the soil
well enriched and in good physical condition. From the 5th to the 10th
of May in the latitude of central New York, it will be safe to plant
Beans for an early crop. The Beans may be dropped 2 inches deep in
shallow drills, the seeds to lie 3 inches apart. Cover to the surface of
the soil, and if the ground be dry, firm it with the foot or the back of
the hoe. For the bush varieties, allow 2 ft. between the drill-rows, but
for the dwarf Limas 2-1/2 ft. is better. Pole Limas are usually planted
in hills 2-3 ft. apart in the rows. Dwarf Limas may be sown thinly in
drills.
A large number of the varieties of both the green-podded and the
wax-podded Beans are used almost exclusively as snap Beans, to be eaten
with the pod while tender. The various strains of the Black Wax are the
most popular string Beans. The pole or running Beans are used either
green or dried, and the Limas, both tall and dwarf, are well known for
their superior flavor either as shelled or dry Beans. The old-fashioned
Cranberry or Horticultural Lima type (a pole form of _Phaseolus
vulgaris_) is probably the best shell Bean, but the trouble of poling
makes it unpopular. Dwarf Limas are much more desirable for small
gardens than the pole varieties, as they may be planted much closer, the
bother of procuring poles and twine is avoided, and the garden will have
a more sightly appearance. Both the dwarf Limas and pole Limas require a
longer season in which to mature than the bush varieties, and only one
planting is usually made. But the bush varieties may be planted at
intervals of two weeks from the first planting until the 10th of August.
Each planting may be made on ground previously occupied by some
early-maturing crop. Thus, the first to third plantings may be on ground
from which has been harvested a crop of spinach, early radish or
lettuce; after that, on ground where early peas have been grown; and the
later sowings where beets or early potatoes have grown. String Beans for
canning are usually taken from the last crop. One quart of seed will
plant 100 ft. of drill; or 1 quart of Limas will plant 100 hills.
Limas are the richest of Beans, but they often fail to mature in the
northern states. The land should not be very rich in nitrogen (or stable
manure), else the plants will run too much to vine and be too late.
Select a fertile sandy or gravelly soil with warm exposure, use some
soluble commercial fertilizer to start them off, and give them the best
of culture. Aim to have the pods set before the droughts of midsummer
come. Good trellises for Beans are made by wool twine stretched between
two horizontal wires, one of which is drawn a foot above the ground and
the other 6 or 7 ft. high.
Bean plants are not troubled by insects to any extent, but they are
sometimes attacked by blight. When this occurs, do not plant the same
ground to Beans again for a year or two.
BEDDING. This term is used to designate the massing of plants in the
open ground for the purpose of making a bold display of color. This
color may be obtained with flowers or with strong effects of foliage.
Bedding is ordinarily a temporary species of planting; that is, the bed
is filled anew each year. However, the term may be used to designate a
permanent plantation of plants which are heavily massed so as to give
one continuous or emphatic display of form or color. Some of the best
permanent bedding masses are made of the various hardy ornamental
grasses, as eulalias, arundo, and the like.
Some bedding is very temporary in its effect. Especially is this true of
spring Bedding, in which the plants used are tulips, hyacinths, crocuses
or other early-flowering bulbous plants. In this case, the ground is
usually occupied later in the season by other plants. These later plants
are usually annuals, the seeds of which are sown amongst the bulbs as
soon as the season is far enough advanced; or the annuals may be started
in boxes and the plants transplanted amongst the bulbs as soon as the
weather is fit. Many of the low-growing and compact, continuous-flowering
annuals are excellent for summer Bedding effects. Some of the best
plants for this purpose are mentioned in the following list:
Adonis aestivalis.
Adonis autumnalis.
Ageratum Mexicanum.
Ageratum Mexicanum, dwarf.
Bartonia aurea.
Cacalia.
Calendula officinalis, in several forms.
Calendula pluvialis.
Calendula Pongei.
Calendula sulphurea, fl. pl.
Calendula suffruticosa.
Calliopsis bicolor marmorata.
Calliopsis cardaminaefolia.
Calliopsis elegans picta.
Callirrhoe involucrata.
Callirrhoe pedata nana.
Callirrhoe pedata.
Centaurea Americana.
Centaurea Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact.
Centaurea Cyanus minor.
Centaurea suaveolens.
Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum.
Chrysanthemum carinatum.
Chrysanthemum coronarium.
Chrysanthemum tricolor.
Convolvulus minor.
Convolvulus tricolor.
Cosmidium Burridgeanum.
Delphinium, single.
Delphinium, double.
Dianthus, Double White Half Dwarf Margaret.
Dianthus, Dwarf Perpetual.
Dianthus Caryophyllus semperflorens.
Dianthus Chinensis, double.
Dianthus dentosus hybridus.
Dianthus Heddewigii.
Dianthus imperialis.
Dianthus laciniatus, Salmon Queen.
Dianthus plumarius.
Dianthus superbus, dwarf fl. pl.
Dianthus, Picotee.
Elscholtzia cristata.
Eschscholtzia Californica.
Eschscholtzia crocea.
Eschscholtzia, Mandarin.
Eschscholtzia tenuifolia.
Gaillardia picta.
Gaillardia picta Lorenziana.
Gilia achilleaefolia.
Gilia capitata.
Gilia laciniata.
Gilia linifolia.
Gilia nivalis.
Gilia tricolor.
Godetia Whitneyi.
Godetia grandiflora maculata.
Godetia rubicunda splendens.
Hibiscus Africanus.
Hibiscus, Golden Bowl.
Iberis affinis.
Iberis amara.
Iberis coronaria.
Iberis umbellata.
Impatiens or Balsam.
Lavatera alba.
Lavatera trimestris.
Linum grandiflorum.
Madia elegans.
Malope grandiflora.
Matricaria eximia plena.
Matthiola or Stock, in many forms.
Matthiola, Wallflower-leaved.
Matthiola bicornis.
Nigella or Love-in-a-Mist.
Oenothera Drummondii.
Oenothera Lamarckiana.
Oenothera rosea.
Oenothera tetraptera.
Papaver or Poppy, of many kinds.
Papaver cardinale.
Papaver glaucum.
Papaver umbrosum.
Petunia, Ring of Emerald.
Phlox Drummondii, in many varieties.
Portulaca.
Salvia farinacea.
Salvia Horminum.
Salvia splendens.
Schizanthus papilionaceus.
Schizanthus pinnatus.
Silene Armeria.
Silene pendula.
Tagetes or Marigold, in many forms.
Tagetes erecta.
Tagetes patula.
Tagetes signata.
Tropaeolum, Dwarf.
Verbena auriculaeflora.
Verbena Italica striata.
Verbena hybrida.
Verbena coerulea.
Verbena, Golden-leaved.
Viscaria coeli-rosa.
Viscaria elegans picta.
Viscaria oculata.
Zinnia, Dwarf.
Zinnia elegans alba.
Zinnia, Tom Thumb.
Zinnia Haageana.
Zinnia coccinea plena.
Summer bedding is often made by perennial plants which are carried over
from the preceding year, or better, which are propagated for that
particular purpose in February and March. Such plants as geranium,
coleus, alyssum, scarlet salvia, ageratum and heliotrope may be used for
these beds. It is a common practice to use geranium plants which are in
bloom during the winter for bedding out during the summer, but such
plants are tall and ungainly in form and have expended the greater part
of their energies. It is better to propagate new plants by taking
cuttings or slips late in the winter and setting out young, fresh,
vigorous subjects.
Very bold and subtropical effects can be made by planting in the open
such things as palms, bananas, crotons, araucarias, caladiums and
cannas. Plants like bananas and palms, which are kept normally in pots,
would better be left in the pots and plunged to the rims rather than
turned out directly into the soil. In order to attain quick and
continuous effects, it is advisable to set the plants rather close. As
such plants are likely to be injured by strong winds, it is well to have
subtropical beds in a somewhat protected place.
Another type of bed is that which attempts to make patterns or designs,
or carpet-bedding. There are comparatively few plants which are adapted
to this purpose, for the plants must be such as will stand shearing and
which have very strong and constant colors of foliage. The most popular
bedding plants are coleus (particularly the yellow Golden Bedder)
achyranthes, alternanthera, _Centaurea gymnocarpa_, and such succulent
plants as the house leeks. Some of the annual flowers may also be used
for strong color effects, as _Lobelia Erinus_ and sweet alyssum.
Ordinarily the making of carpet-beds should be left to professional
gardeners, since it requires much skill and care to make and keep the
beds in perfect condition; and a ragged or imperfect carpet-bed is worse
than no bed at all. Carpet-beds are really curiosities, and they have no
more legitimate place in the general pictorial landscape design area
than painted stones or sheared evergreens. Therefore, they should be
placed by themselves at one side, where they do not interfere with the
general design of the place. In public parks they make a very useful
attraction when set off by themselves, the same as zoological gardens or
other attractions do.
BEEFSTEAK GERANIUM is _Begonia_.
BEETS. Being one of the hardiest of spring vegetables, the seed may be
sown as early in the spring as the ground can be worked. A light, sandy
soil is the best on which to grow Beets to perfection, but any well
tilled garden soil will raise satisfactory crops. On heavy soil the
turnip Beet gives the best results, as the growth is nearly all at or
above the surface. The long varieties, having tapering roots running
deep into the soil, are apt to be misshapen unless the physical
condition of the soil is such that the roots meet with little
obstruction. A succession of sowings should be made, at intervals of
from two to three weeks, until late summer, as the Beets are much more
desirable in their young stage than when they have become old and woody.
The Mangel-Wurzel and the Sugar Beet are usually grown as a field crop,
and will not enter into the calculations of the home garden.
[Illustration: Early Beets]
In order to hasten the season of the extra-early crop of Beets, the
seeds may be sown in boxes or in the soil of a hotbed in February or
March, transplanting the small plants to the open ground at the time the
first sowing of seed is made. As the flat or turnip-rooted varieties
grow at the surface of the ground, the seed may be sown thickly, and as
the more advanced roots are large enough to use they may be pulled,
leaving room for the later ones to develop, thus growing a quantity in a
small area and having a long season of small Beets from one sowing. For
winter use the late July sown seed will give the best roots, growing
through the cool months of the fall to a medium size and remaining firm
without being tough or stringy. These may be dug up after light frosts
and before any severe cold weather, and stored in barrels or boxes in
the cellar, using enough dry dirt to fill spaces between the roots and
cover them to the depth of 6 inches. These roots, thus packed in a cool
cellar, will be fit to use through the entire winter months. When it can
be had, florists' or sphagnum moss is an excellent medium in which to
pack roots for winter.
The early round or turnip varieties are best for early and summer use.
The Long Blood Beets may be used for storing, but these require a longer
season of growth.
BEGONIAS. Tender bedding and house plants. Next to the geranium,
Begonias are probably the most popular for house culture of the entire
plant list. The ease of culture, profusion of bloom or richness of
foliage, together with their adaptability to shade, make them very
desirable.
Begonias may be divided into three sections: the fibrous-rooted class,
which contains the winter-flowering varieties; the tuberous-rooted,
those which bloom through the summer, the tuber resting through the
winter; and the Rex forms, or Beefsteak Geraniums, having large
ornamental leaves.
[Illustration: Fibrous-rooted Begonia]
The fibrous-rooted kinds may be propagated by seed or cuttings, the
latter being the usual method. Cuttings of half-ripened wood root
easily, making a rapid growth, the plants flowering in a few months.
The tuberous-rooted varieties are propagated by division of the tuber or
from seed, the former being rarely done except to increase the stock of
some extra fine variety. The seeds, like those of all Begonias, are very
small, and should be sown with great care. Simply sprinkle them on the
surface of the soil, which should be a mixture of leaf-mold and sand,
with the addition of a small amount of fibrous loam. Watering should be
done by setting the pot or box in which the seeds are sown in water,
allowing the moisture to ascend through the soil. When the soil has
become completely saturated, set the box in a shady situation, covering
it with glass or some other object until the tiny seedlings appear.
Never allow the soil to become dry. The seedlings should be
transplanted, as soon as they can be handled, into boxes or pots
containing the same mixture of soil, setting each plant down to the
seed-leaf. They will need three or four transplantings before they reach
the blooming stage, and at each one after the first, the amount of
fibrous loam may be increased until the soil is composed of one-third
each of loam, sand and leaf-mold. The addition of a little well rotted
manure may be made at the last transplanting. These tuberous-rooted
Begonias make superior bedding plants if given a shady situation and
deep soil; but for the amateur they are perhaps better grown as
pot-plants, for one is able to give them better conditions by that
method. The flowers are both double and single, ranging in color from
pure white and yellow to pink and red. After flowering the plants will
die down and the tubers, after drying off, may be placed in a dry, warm
place until spring.
[Illustration: Rex Begonia]
The Rex type, having no branches, is propagated from the leaves. The
large mature leaves are used. The leaf may be cut into sections having
at the base a union of two ribs. These pieces of leaves may be inserted
in the sand as any other cutting. Or a whole leaf may be used, cutting
through the ribs at intervals and laying the leaf flat on the
propagating bench or other warm, moist place. In a short time young
plants having roots of their own will form. These may be potted when
large enough to handle, and will soon make good sized plants. Rex
Begonias usually grow little during winter. Be sure that the pots are
well drained, so that the soil does not become sour. New plants--those a
year or so old--are usually most satisfactory. Keep them away from
direct sunlight.
An insidious disease of Begonia leaves has recently made its appearance.
The best treatment yet known is to propagate fresh plants, throwing away
the old stock and the dirt in which it is grown.
BELLIS PERENNIS. See _Daisy_.
[Illustration: Ancient Briton Blackberry]
BLACKBERRIES. The one essential to the successful growing of
Blackberries is a moist soil,--not one in which water will stand, but
one rich enough in humus to hold sufficient moisture to carry the crop
through the growing season. It is usually found best to plant in the
fall, earthing up slightly around the plants. The distance between the
plants should be regulated by the variety. The smaller-growing kinds (as
Early Harvest and Wilson) may be planted 4 x 7 ft., the rank-growing
varieties (as Snyder) 6 x 8 ft. Thorough cultivation throughout the
season will help in a material degree to hold the moisture necessary to
perfect a good crop. The soil should be cultivated very shallow,
however, so as not to disturb the roots, as the breaking of the roots
starts a large number of suckers that have to be cut out and destroyed.
[Illustration: Shears for cutting out old canes]
Blackberries, like dewberries and raspberries, bear but one crop on the
cane. That is, canes which spring up this year bear next year. From 3 to
6 canes are sufficient to be left in each hill. The superfluous ones are
thinned out soon after they start from the ground. The old canes should
be cut out soon after fruiting and burned. The new shoots should be
pinched back at the height of 2 or 3 ft. if the plants are to support
themselves. If to be fastened to wires, they may be allowed to grow
throughout the season and be cut back when tied to the wires in winter
or early spring. Tools for the cutting out of the old canes are well
represented in the pictures. Shears are used for shortening-in the
canes.
[Illustration: Shears for heading-in bushes]
Blackberry plants are sometimes laid down in cold climates,--the tops
being bent over and held to the ground by earth or sods thrown on their
tips.
[Illustration: Knife hook for cutting out old canes]
Snyder is the most popular commercial variety; but Agawam, Ancient
Briton, Taylor, and others are better in quality. A new patch should be
planted every five or six years.
BLUE BOTTLE. See _Centaurea Cyanus_.
BORDEAUX MIXTURE is a fungicide, used to combat mildews, leaf-diseases,
blights, etc. It is sprayed on the plants with a spray pump or syringe,
or it may be applied with a whisk broom. Apply enough of it so that the
foliage looks blue. It is made as follows: Copper sulfate, 6 pounds;
quicklime, 4 pounds; water, 40 to 50 gallons. Dissolve the copper
sulfate by putting it into a bag of coarse cloth and hanging this in a
vessel holding at least four gallons, so that it is just covered by the
water. Use an earthen or wooden vessel. Slake the lime in an equal
amount of water. Then mix the two and add enough water to make 40
gallons. It is then ready for immediate use, but will keep for some
time. If the mixture is to be used on peach foliage, it is advisable to
add an extra pound of lime to the above formula. When applied to such
plants as carnations or cabbages, it will adhere better if a pound of
hard soap is dissolved in hot water and added to the mixture. For rots,
molds, mildews, and all fungous diseases.
Whilst Bordeaux Mixture is the best general fungicide, it discolors the
plants until it washes off. On ornamental plants, therefore, a colorless
fungicide may be preferable. In such cases, use the ammoniacal carbonate
of copper solution, as follows: Copper carbonate, 1 ounce; ammonia, 1
volume 26 deg. Baume, 7/8 volumes water (enough to dissolve the copper);
water, 9 gallons. The copper carbonate is best dissolved in large
bottles, where it will keep indefinitely, and it should be diluted with
water as required. For the same purposes as Bordeaux Mixture.
BORDER. The word border is used to designate the heavy or continuous
planting about the boundaries of a place, or along the walks and drives,
or against the buildings, in distinction from planting on the lawn or in
the interior spaces. A border receives different designations, depending
upon the kinds of plants which are grown therein; that is, it may be a
shrub border, a flower border, a hardy border for native and other
hardy plants, a vine border, and the like. As a rule, the most effective
planting is that which is thrown into masses, for one plant reinforces
the other, and the flowers have a good setting or background. Very
striking displays of foliage and flowers and plant forms can be made
when massed together. As a rule, plants are more easily grown when
planted in a border, since the whole area can be kept cultivated with
ease; and if a plant becomes weak or dies, its place is readily filled
by the neighboring plants spreading into it. Planting in masses is also
essential to the best arrangement of the yard, since the basis of any
landscape is a more or less continuous greensward (see _Lawn_). The
house occupies the central part of the area, and the sides are heavily
massed or planted so as to make a framework for the whole place. The
border may be mixed,--that is, composed of a great variety of
plants,--or it may be made up of one continuous thing. In long and very
striking borders, it is often best to have the background--that is, the
back row--of one general type of plant in order to give continuity and
strength to the whole group. In front of this a variety of plants may be
set, if one desire.
[Illustration: Planting by the steps]
The land should be rich. The whole ground should be plowed or spaded and
the plants set irregularly in the space; or the back row may be set in a
line. If the border is composed of shrubs, and is large, a horse
cultivator may be run in and out between the plants for the first two or
three years, since the shrubs will be set from 2 to 4 ft. apart.
Ordinarily, however, the cultivating is done by hand tools. After the
plants are once established and the border is filled, it is best to dig
up as little as possible, for the digging disturbs the roots and breaks
off the crowns. It is usually best to pull out the weeds and give the
border a top-dressing each fall of well rotted manure. If the ground is
not very rich, a sprinkling of ashes or some commercial fertilizer may
be given from time to time. The border should be planted so thick as to
allow the plants to run together, thereby giving one continuous effect.
Most shrubs should be set 3 feet apart. Things as large as lilacs may go
4 feet and sometimes even more. Common herbaceous perennials, like
bleeding heart, delphiniums, hollyhocks, and the like, should go from 12
to 18 inches. On the front edge of the border is a very excellent place
for annual and tender flowering plants. Here, for example, one may make
a fringe of asters, geraniums, coleus, or anything else which he may
choose (see _Flower Beds_).
The border is an excellent place in which to colonize native or other
interesting plants. A person comes across an attractive plant on his
tramp and wishes it were in his garden. Whatever the time of year, he
may break off the top close to the ground, take up the roots and plant
them in the border. If a little attention is given to the plant for the
first two or three weeks, as watering or mulching or shading, it should
become established and give satisfactory bloom the following year.
Two-thirds of the herbs which one would take up in this way, even in
midsummer, should grow. Into the heavy borders about the boundaries of
the place the autumn leaves will drift and afford an excellent mulch. If
these borders are planted with shrubs, the leaves may be left there to
decay, and not be raked off in the spring. The general outline of the
border facing the lawn should be more or less wavy or irregular,
particularly if it is on the boundary of the place. Alongside a walk or
drive, the margins may follow the general directions of the walk or
drive.
There are three rules for the choosing of plants for a hardy border.
Choose (1) those which you like best, (2) those which are adapted to the
climate and soil, (3) those which are in place or in keeping with that
part of the grounds. See _Herbs_, _Shrubs_, _Trees_.
BORECOLE is _Kale_.
BORERS. There is no sovereign remedy for borers except to dig them out.
Do not rely upon washes or other applications. If trees are examined two
or three times a year, it is not a laborious undertaking to dig them
out, as they will not be deep in the wood. If they do get deep in the
wood, thrust a wire into the burrow. By the chips cast from the holes,
or by the dead bark, the presence of borers may be detected. Apple and
peach trees are particularly liable to attack. The flat-headed
apple-tree borer works just underneath the bark on any part of the trunk
or large branches. The round-headed apple-tree borer eats into the wood
at the crown.
BOXES of many sizes can be utilized in which to grow plants. Excellent
effects of bulbs and annuals may be had in old soap boxes. The boxes may
be placed in the best situations for the growth of the plants, and they
can receive better attention than the large flower bed. Vines planted
about the edge will hide the sides,--such vines as Kenilworth ivy,
moneywort, maurandya, trailing fuchsia, and the like.
BRACHYCOME. See _Swan River Daisy_.
BROCCOLI. This is almost identical with the Cauliflower, except that it
usually requires a longer season and matures in the fall. It is grown
more generally in Europe than in this country. The special merit of
Broccoli is its adaptability for late summer planting and its rapid
growth in the late fall. It is said that a large proportion of Broccoli
is used in the manufacture of pickles. The culture is the same as for
Cauliflower,--deep, moist soil well enriched, cool weather, and the
destruction of the cabbage worm.
The young plants may be grown in a coldframe or in a well protected
border, sowing the seed about the 15th of May, transplanting into rows
in July. In sections in which early fall frosts are not to be feared,
the plants may be set two weeks later, say August 1, as all vegetables
of the cabbage family make the best growth through the cool months of
September and October. The plants should be set 18 in. apart in the
rows, the rows being from 2-1/2 ft. to 3 ft. apart.
BROWALLIA ELATA is a very fine tender annual, giving a border or mixed
bed a dash of amethyst blue not often found in flowers. It is a
strong-growing plant with a profusion of bloom, and no doubt one of the
choicest plants of its color in cultivation. There are other species
with white flowers that serve as contrast, and may be grown with this.
All of the kinds may be taken up and potted in the fall, cutting the
plant well back, and a profusion of bloom may be obtained through the
winter months if attention is given to pinching off the seed pods. In
the garden, let the plants stand 12 in. apart. The plants grow 1-2 ft.
high.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS. This is a vegetable that should be more generally
known, as it is one of the choicest of the cabbage family, and may be
had at its best after the season for cauliflower has passed. It is the
better for being touched by the fall frosts. The parts used are the
buttons or sprouts (miniature cabbage heads) that grow thickly along the
stem. These should be cut off rather than broken. The very small hard
"sprouts" or buttons are the best. The culture is essentially the same
as for late cabbage or broccoli. One ounce will sow 100 ft. of drill, or
make upward of 2,000 plants. Set plants in field 2-3 ft. apart. They
require the entire season in which to grow.
BUDDING. See _Grafting_.
BULBS. The outdoor culture of bulbs is extremely simple. They care for
themselves throughout a greater part of the year, many of them flowering
when no other plants are able to grow and bloom out of doors.
While all the so-called Holland bulbs will thrive in any kind of soil,
they will all do better by being planted in a deep, sandy soil well
enriched with well rotted manure. But do not let the manure come into
direct contact with the bulb. Even heavy clay soil may be fitted for the
growing of bulbs by the addition of sharp sand, either worked into the
soil or placed directly under the bulb when planted. To make a bulb bed,
choose, if possible, a sandy soil and throw out the top soil to the
depth of 6 in. Put into the bottom of the bed about 2 in. of well rotted
manure and spade it into the soil. Throw back half of the top soil,
level it off nicely, set the bulbs firmly on this bed and then cover
them with the balance of the soil; in this way one will have the bulbs
from 3 to 4 in. below the surface. In the fall months the top of the
ground is cooler than at the depth of 5 or 6 in. and the top of the bulb
will not want to grow, while the bottom, which is always in a hurry,
will send out roots, to push out the leaves and flowers the next spring.
When the weather is cold enough to freeze a hard crust on the soil, the
bed should have its winter overcoat. This may be straw, hay, cornstalks
or leaves spread over the bed to the depth of 6 in. if the material is
coarse; but if leaves are used, 3 in. will be enough, because the leaves
lay close together and may smother out the frost that is in the ground
and let the bulbs start. What we want is to keep them asleep until
spring, because if they start too early the hard freezes of March and
early April will spoil their beauty if the leaves or flowers are near or
above the surface. Early in April, in New York, the covering may be
removed gradually, and should all be off the beds before the leaves show
above the ground.
If there is no sandy place for the beds, make them as directed, leaving
the stones in the bottom of the bed for drainage. Then, when ready to
set the bulb, place a large handful of sand where the bulb is to go and
set the bulb on it. This will keep the water from standing around the
bulb. Very fine results may be had on heavy soil by this method.
As to kinds of bulbs, select hyacinths, tulips or narcissus or
daffodils, with snowdrops or crocuses of various colors around the edge.
For the culture of these and other bulbs, see the various articles
throughout the book.
_The growing of flowering bulbs through the winter_ adds to the list of
house plants a charming variety. The labor, time and skill required is
much less than that of growing many of the larger plants more commonly
used for winter decorations. The larger number of winter bulbs may be
left out of doors until within four to six weeks of the time when they
are wanted in flower. Hyacinths, narcissus, tulips, and crocus can be
made to flower in the winter without difficulty. Secure the bulbs so as
to be able to pot them by the middle or last of October, or if earlier
all the better. The soil should be rich, sandy loam, if possible; if
not, the best one can get, to which add about one-fourth the bulk of
sand and mix thoroughly. If ordinary flower pots are to be used, put in
the bottom a few pieces of broken pots, charcoal or small stones for
drainage, then fill the pot with dirt so that when the bulbs are set on
the dirt the top of the bulb is even with the rim of the pot. Fill
around it with soil, leaving just the tip of the bulb showing above the
dirt. If the soil is heavy, a good plan is to sprinkle a small handful
of sand under the bulb to carry off the water, the same as is done in
the beds outdoors. If one does not have pots he may use boxes. Starch
boxes are a good size to use, as they are not heavy to handle; and
excellent flowers are sometimes obtained from bulbs planted in old
tomato cans. If boxes or cans are used, care must be taken to have holes
in the bottoms to let the water run out. A large size hyacinth bulb
will do well in a 5-inch pot. The same size pot will do for three or
four narcissuses or eight to twelve crocuses.
After the bulbs are planted in the pots or other receptacles, they
should be placed in a cool place, either in a cold pit or cellar, or on
the shady side of a building, or, better yet, plunged or buried up to
the rim of the pot in a shady border. This is done to force the roots to
grow while the top stands still; as only the bulbs with good roots will
give good flowers. When the weather gets so cold that a crust is frozen
on the soil, the pots should be covered with a little straw, and as the
weather gets colder more straw must be used. In from six to eight weeks
after planting the bulbs, they should have made roots enough to grow the
plant, and they may be taken up and placed in a cool room for a week or
so, after which, if they have started into growth, they may be taken
into a warmer room where they can have plenty of light. They will grow
very rapidly now and will want lots of water, and after the flowers
begin to show, the pots may stand in a saucer of water all the time.
When just coming into bloom the plants may have full sunlight part of
the time to help bring out the color of the flowers.
BUSHES. See _Shrubs_.
CABBAGE. For an early crop, the plants must be started either in
February or early March, or the previous September and wintered over in
coldframes. This latter method was once a common practice by gardeners
near large cities, but the building of greenhouses to replace the many
hotbeds of the market-gardener has changed the practice in many
localities, and now most of the early Cabbages in the north are grown
from seed sown in January, February or March. The plants are hardened
off in March and early April and planted out as early as possible. The
private grower, or one with a small garden, may often procure his early
plants from the market-gardener much cheaper than he can grow them, as
usually only a limited number of early Cabbage plants are wanted; but
for the midseason and main crop, the seed may be sown in May or June,
setting the plants in July.
[Illustration: Early Cabbage]
For early planting, the number of varieties is limited to three or four.
For an intermediate crop the list is more extended, and the late
varieties are very numerous. The early list is headed by the Jersey
Wakefield, a variety which heads very quickly, and, although not one of
the solid kinds, is generally grown. The Early York and Winnigstadt are
good varieties to follow it. The latter especially is solid and of very
good quality. For the midseason, the Succession and All Season are of
the best, and for the winter supply the Drumhead, Danish Ball and Flat
Dutch types are the leaders. One of the best of the Cabbages for table
use is seldom seen in the garden--the Savoy Cabbage. It is a type with
netted leaves, making a large, low-growing head, the center of which is
very solid and of excellent flavor, especially late in the fall, when
the heads have had a slight touch of frost. Savoy should be grown in
every private garden.
The seed-bed should be made mellow and rich. A good border will do. The
seed is sown preferably in rows, thus allowing thinning of the plants
and the pulling of any weeds that germinate. The young plants will well
repay attention to watering and thinning. The rows should be 3 or 4 in.
apart. When the plants are large enough to transplant, they may be
planted where early vegetables have been grown. Set the plants from 18
to 24 in. apart in the row, the rows being 3 ft. apart for the
medium-growing kinds. One ounce of seed will furnish about two thousand
plants. All Cabbages require deep and rich soil, and one that holds
moisture well.
The best remedy for the Cabbage worm is to kill the first brood on the
very young plants with Paris green. After the plants begin to head,
pyrethrum or salt water may be used. On a small area, hand-picking may
be recommended.
The maggot is the most serious Cabbage pest. After studying the seventy
odd remedies proposed, Slingerland concludes that 6 are efficient and
practicable: growing the young plants in closely covered frames; tarred
paper cards placed snugly about the base of the plants to keep the fly
away; rubbing the eggs from the base of the plant; hand-picking of the
maggots; treating the plants with emulsion of carbolic acid; treating
them with carbon bisulfide. The insecticidal materials are injected or
poured into the soil about the base of the plant.
Respecting these two insecticides, Slingerland remarks: "Always use the
crude carbolic acid, as it is much cheaper than the purified and is
nearly, if not quite, as effective. It will probably be safer if used as
an emulsion than if simply diluted with water. We would advise that it
be made by the follow formula: 1 pound of hard soap or 1 quart of soft
soap dissolved in 1 gallon of boiling water, into which 1 pint of crude
carbolic acid is then poured and the whole mass agitated into an
emulsion, which will remain in this condition for a long time. In
treating the plants, take one part of this standard emulsion and dilute
it with 30 equal parts of water; it probably can be used stronger
without injury to the plants. If the emulsion is cold and semi-solid,
use several parts of warm water at first. Begin the treatment early, a
day or two after the plants are up, or in the case of Cabbages and
Cauliflowers the next day after they are set in the field, and repeat it
once each week or 10 days until about May 20 in our state. While we have
little faith in the preventive effects of the early treatments, we do
believe that the emulsion will then kill many of the eggs and recently
hatched maggots. If it could be applied with some force through a
syringe or force pump, it might not be necessary to go to the trouble of
first removing some of the earth from about the plants. It must be
remembered that its success will depend on the eggs or maggots being hit
with it. None of the Cabbages in our experiment were injured in the
least by an application containing nearly twice as much of the acid, and
there is but little danger of its injuring the tenderest foliage of
radishes, turnips or onions; if any injury manifests itself on these
crops, dilute the emulsion with 40 or 50 or more parts of water, instead
of 30. A knapsack or wheelbarrow sprayer would prove a very useful
instrument in applying the emulsion on a large scale."
The carbon bisulfide is best injected into the soil by means of a
long-nosed syringe. Slingerland (Cornell Bulletin 78) illustrates a
specially made syringe or injector for this purpose: "Thus Cabbage
plants can be treated once, and once is usually sufficient, at the rate
of about 10 plants for 1 cent for the liquid, using about 1 teaspoonful
to each plant. As the injector will last for years, and several
neighbors might join in the purchase and use of one instrument, its cost
would practically not influence this estimate of the cost of killing the
maggots. We believe it is the cheapest, most effective, and most
practicable method yet devised for fighting this pest on crops of
Cabbages and cauliflowers; on crops of radishes, turnips, or onions it
will probably be too expensive except where choice or new varieties are
attacked. The carbolic acid emulsion will prove the most practicable on
these last crops."
The club-root, which causes the roots to become greatly thickened and
distorted, is difficult to manage if Cabbages or allied plants are grown
continuously on land in which diseased plants have been raised. Changing
the location of the Cabbage or Cauliflower patch is the best procedure.
If very different crops, as corn, potatoes, peas, tomatoes, etc., are
grown on the land, the disease will be starved out in two or three
years.
CACALIA. TASSEL FLOWER. LADIES' PAINT BRUSH. A quaint old annual, in two
colors, scarlet and orange. It is easily grown, and makes a fine
second-row plant for a border, contrasting well with Browallia or
Ageratum. Sow where the plants are to stand. Let plants stand 10-12
inches apart. Grow 1-1/2 to 2 ft. high.
CACTUS. This class of plants is often seen in small collections of house
plants, to which they add interest, being altogether different from
other plants. All Cacti are easy to grow, requiring but little care and
enduring the heat and dryness of a living room much better than most
other plants. Their requirements are ample drainage and a sandy soil.
Cactus growers usually make a soil by mixing pulverized plaster or lime
refuse with garden loam, using about two-thirds of the loam. The very
fine parts, or dust, of the plaster, are blown out, else the soil is
likely to cement. They may be rested at any season by simply setting
them away in a dry place for two or three months, and bringing them into
heat and light when they are wanted. As new growth advances they should
have water occasionally, and when in bloom they should be watered
freely. Withhold water gradually after blooming until they are to be
rested.
Some of the most common species in cultivation are the Phyllocactus
species, often called the Night-blooming Cereus. These are not the true
Night-blooming Cereuses, which have angular or cylindrical stems,
covered with bristles, while this has flat, leaf-like branches; the
flowers of these, however, are very much like the Cereus, opening at
evening and closing before morning, and as the Phyllocacti may be grown
with greater ease, blooming on smaller and younger plants, they are to
be recommended. See _Cereus_.
The Epiphyllum, or Lobster Cactus, is one of the best of the family,
easy of culture. It bears bright-colored blossoms at the end of each
joint. When in flower, which will be through some of the winter months,
this requires a richer soil than the other Cacti. Opuntias, or prickly
pears, are often grown as border plants through the summer. In fact, all
the family may be planted out, and if a number of varieties are set in a
bed together they make a striking addition to the garden. Be very
careful not to bruise the plants. It is better to plunge them in the
pots than to turn them out of the pots.
[Illustration: Caladium or Colocasia]
CALADIUM. Tuberous-rooted, tender perennial plants which are used for
conservatory decorations, and also for subtropical and bold effects in
the lawn. The plants which are commonly known under this name are really
Colocasias. The plants should be rested during the winter, being kept in
a warm cellar or under a greenhouse bench, where they are not liable to
frost or dampness. The roots are usually kept covered with earth during
the winter, but they are kept dry. Early in the spring the roots are put
into boxes or pots and are started into growth, so that by the time
settled weather comes they will be 1 or 2 feet high and ready to set
directly into soil. When set out of doors, they should be given a place
which is protected from strong winds, and one which does not receive the
full glare of direct sunlight. The soil should be rich and deep, and the
plants should have an abundance of water. Caladiums are most excellent
plants for striking effects, especially against a house, high shrubbery
or other background. If they are planted by themselves, they should be
in clumps rather than scattered as single specimens, as the effect is
better. See that they get a good start before they are planted in the
open ground.
CALCEOLARIA. Small greenhouse herbs which are sometimes used in the
window-garden. They are not very satisfactory plants for window
treatment, however, since they suffer from dry atmosphere and from
sudden changes of temperature. In the window-garden they should be
protected from strong, direct sunlight. They are grown from seeds. If
the seeds are sown in early summer and the young plants are transplanted
as they need, flowering specimens may be had for the late fall and early
winter. In the growing of the young plants, always avoid exposing them
to direct sunlight; but they should be given a place which has an
abundance of screened or tempered light. A new crop of plants should be
raised each year. There is a race of shrubby Calceolarias, but it is
little known in this country. One or two species are annuals which are
adaptable to cultivation in the open garden, and their little,
ladyslipper-like flowers are attractive. However, they are of secondary
importance as annual garden flowers.
CALENDULA. These are the well known POT MARIGOLDS, and add a bright spot
to any garden. Annual. Especially are they fine in the cool days of the
fall, when many of the annual flowers have gone to seed. The places of
short-lived plants may be filled by sowing seed of Calendulas in May,
scattering them through the border and allowing the plants to grow where
they come up. Easy of growth and hardy. 1-2 ft. high. Should stand 8-12
in. apart. Colors, yellow and orange.
[Illustration: California Poppy]
CALIFORNIA POPPY (_Eschscholtzia Californica_). Low perennial,
poppy-like plant, grown as a hardy annual. It is certainly one of the
best low-growing annuals, blooming through a long season and being at
its best through the cool days of fall, after touched by frost. Most of
the varieties have flowers of fine shades of orange or yellow, making a
bright spot in the border at all times. They are like the pot marigolds,
in that once planted they seed themselves. They are never out of place,
and should be left to bloom wherever they may be. Flowers open only in
sunshine. As cut-flowers they are excellent, a large bowl of them
glowing like a golden ball, especially if they are emphasized by a few
blue larkspurs or bachelor's buttons.
Propagated by seed, which would best be sown as soon as ripe, thus
giving the plant an early start, and having bloom through the season.
They make attractive mats of foliage. 12-18 in. high. Let the plants
stand 10-20 in. apart.
CALLA (properly _Richardia_). EGYPTIAN LILY. All things considered, this
is one of the most satisfactory of winter house plants, lending itself
to various conditions. The requirements of the Calla are rich soil and
an abundance of water, with the roots confined in as small a space as
possible. If a too large pot is used the growth of foliage will be very
rank, at the expense of the flowers, but by using a smaller sized pot
and applying liquid manure the flowers will be produced freely. A 6-inch
pot will be large enough for all but an exceptionally large bulb. If
desired, a number of bulbs may be grown together in a larger pot. The
soil should be very rich but fibrous--at least one-third well rotted
manure will be none too much, mixed with equal parts of fibrous loam and
sharp sand. The tubers should be planted firmly and the pots set in a
cool place to make roots. After the roots have partially filled the pot,
the plant may be brought into heat and given a sunny position and an
abundance of water. An occasional sponging or washing of the leaves will
free them from dust. No other treatment will be required until the
flowers appear, when liquid manure may be given. The plant will thrive
all the better at this time if the pot is placed in a saucer of water.
In fact, the Calla will grow finely in an aquarium. The Calla may be
grown through the entire year, but it will prove more satisfactory, both
in leaf and flower, if rested through part of the summer. This may be
done by laying the pots on their sides in a dry, shady place under
shrubbery, or if in the open slightly covered with straw or other litter
to keep the roots from becoming extremely dry. In September or October
they may be shaken out, cleaning off all the old soil, and repotted, as
already mentioned. The offsets may be taken off and set in small pots
and given a year's growth, resting them the second year and having them
in flower that winter.
The spotted Calla has variegated foliage and is a fine plant for mixed
collections. This blooms in the spring, which will lengthen the season
of Calla bloom. The treatment of this is similar to that of the common
Calla.
CALLIOPSIS is a garden name for _Coreopsis_.
CALLIRRHOE. _C. pedata_ is a hardy annual which has large, graceful
blossoms of violet or red. Is it a very free-blooming plant. Should be
started in a frame and planted out where wanted. 2-3 ft. high and grows
bushy. Plants should stand 1-1/2 to 2 ft. apart.
CAMELLIA. Years ago Camellias were very popular, but they have been
crowded out by the informal flowers of recent times. Their time will
come again. They are half-hardy woody plants, blooming in late winter
and spring. During the blooming season keep them cool--say not over 50 deg.
at night and a little higher by day. When blooming is done they begin to
grow, then give them more heat and plenty of water. See that they are
well ripened by winter. Always screen them from direct sunlight. Do not
try to force them in early winter, after the growth has ceased. Their
summer quarters may be in a protected place in the open air. Propagated
by cuttings in winter, which should give blooming plants in two years.
Use a porous soil for Camellias, with considerable leaf-mold.
CAMPANULA. BELL FLOWER. But one of the Campanulas commonly listed by
seedsmen is an annual,--_C. macrostyla_, a clean-leaved plant, growing 2
feet high, spreading over the ground, and bearing a profusion of large,
violet, bell-shaped flowers. The Canterbury Bell is the best known. It
is biennial, but if started early and transplanted will bloom the first
season. The perennial Campanulas are most excellent for borders. _C.
Carpatica_ is particularly good for edgings.
CANARY BIRD FLOWER. See _Nasturtium_.
[Illustration: Candytuft]
CANDYTUFT. Well known sweet-scented hardy annuals, in red, purple, and
white; easy of culture and fine for cutting. One of the best of edging
plants for the front row. The plants grow from 6 in. to 1 ft. tall. Sow
seeds where the plants are to grow, letting plants stand 6-12 in. apart.
They do not last the entire season, and successive sowings may well be
made. There are also perennial kinds.
CANNA is now the favorite bedding plant. The improvements made in the
past ten years, in size and markings of the flowers, have created a
liking for the plant. The tropical effect of a large bed of Cannas,
either mixed or of one color, is not surpassed by any other plant used
for bedding purposes.
[Illustration: Canna]
The Canna may be grown from seed and had in bloom the first year by
sowing in February or March, in boxes or pots placed in hotbeds or
warmhouse, first soaking the seeds in warm water for a short time.
Attention to transplanting as needed and removal to the ground only when
it is well warmed are the necessary requirements. The majority of
Cannas, however, are grown from pieces of the roots (rhizomes), each
piece having a bud. The roots may be divided at any time in the winter,
and if early flowers and foliage are wanted the pieces may be planted in
a hotbed or warmhouse in early April, started into growth and planted
out where wanted as soon as the ground has warmed and all danger of
frost is over. A hardening of the plants, by leaving the sash off the
hotbeds, or setting the plants in shallow boxes and placing the boxes
in a sheltered position through May, not forgetting a liberal supply of
water, will fit the plants to take kindly to the final planting out.
After frost has injured the tops, the roots may be dug, choosing, if
possible, a dry day. The soil is shaken off and the roots stored in a
warm, dry place through the winter. If the cellar is too dry the roots
are liable to shrivel, in which case it would be best to cover them with
soil or sand, filling in around the roots to exclude the drying air.
Cannas grow 3 to 7 ft. high. For dense mass effects, plant 12-18 in.
apart. For individual plants, or for best bloom, give more room. Fine
clumps may be had by planting out the entire old root, not dividing it.
Cannas want a rich, warm soil and a sunny place. They are very easy to
grow.
CANTERBURY BELL is a _Campanula_.
CARBONATE OF COPPER. See _Bordeaux Mixture_.
CARDIOSPERMUM. See _Balloon Vine_.
CARNATIONS are of two types, the outdoor or garden varieties, and the
indoor or forcing kinds. Normally, the Carnation is a hardy perennial,
but the garden kinds, or Marguerites, are usually treated as annuals.
The forcing kinds are flowered but once, new plants being grown each
year from cuttings.
Marguerite Carnations bloom the year the seed is sown, and with a slight
protection will bloom freely the second year. They make attractive house
plants if potted in the fall. The seeds of these Carnations should be
sown in boxes in March and the young plants set out as early as
possible, pinching out the center of the plant to make them branch
freely. Give the same space as for garden pinks.
[Illustration: Carnation]
The winter-flowering Carnations have become prime favorites with all
flower lovers, and a collection of winter house plants seems incomplete
without them. Carnations grow readily from cuttings made of the suckers
that form around the base of the stem, the side shoots of the flowering
stem, or the main shoots before they show flower buds. The cuttings from
the base make the best plants in most cases. These cuttings may be taken
from a plant at any time through the fall or winter, rooted in sand and
potted up, to be held in pots until the planting out time in the spring,
usually in April, or any time when the ground is ready to handle. Care
should be taken to pinch out the tops of young plants while growing in
the pot, and later while in the ground, causing them to grow stocky and
send out new growths along the stem. The young plants should be grown
cool, a temperature of 45 deg. suiting them well. Attention should be given
to spraying the cuttings each day while in the house to keep down the
red spider, which is very partial to the Carnation. In the summer, the
plants are grown in the field, and not in pots. The soil in which they
are to be planted should be moderately rich and loose. Clean cultivation
should be given throughout the summer. Frequently pinch out the tops.
The plants are taken up in September and potted firmly, and well
watered; then set in a cool, partially shaded situation until root
growth has started, spraying the foliage often, and watering the plant
only as it shows need of water.
[Illustration: Carnation cutting]
The usual living-room conditions as to moisture and heat are not such as
the Carnation demands, and care must be taken to overcome the dryness by
spraying the foliage and setting the plant in a position not exposed to
the direct heat of a stove or the sun. In commercial houses, it is not
often necessary to spray established plants. Pick off most or all of the
side buds, in order to add to the size of the leading flowers. After
all is said, it is probably advisable in most cases to purchase the
plants when in bloom from a florist, and after blooming either throw
them away or store them for planting in the spring, when they will bloom
throughout the summer.
CARPET BEDDING. See _Bedding_.
[Illustration: Early Carrots]
CARROT, while essentially a farm crop in this country, is nevertheless a
most acceptable garden vegetable. It is hardy and easily grown. The
extra-early varieties may be forced in a hotbed, or seed may be sown as
soon as the ground is fit to work in the spring. The stump-rooted, or
half-long varieties, are sown for the general garden crop. Well
enriched, mellow loam, deeply dug or plowed, is best suited to the
requirements of Carrots. The seed for the main crop may be sown as late
as July 1. Sow thickly, thinning to 3-4 in. in the row. The rows, if in
a garden that is hand-worked, may be 12 in. apart. If the cultivation is
done by a horse, the rows should be from 2 to 3 ft. apart. One ounce
will sow 100 feet of drill.
[Illustration: Castor Bean]
CASTOR OIL PLANT. In the entire list of quick-growing plants there is
none that excels this for rapidity of growth, grace of foliage and rich
effect. Used either as a specimen plant, with cannas, caladiums, or for
a tropical bed, or as a screen, it gives the most satisfactory results.
Seeds sown early in the house, and the plants grown in the full light,
make fine, stocky plants to set out about the middle of May. With rich
soil and plenty of water, they will grow without a check until frost.
Height, 5-12 ft. For screens, plant 3-4 ft. apart. There are varieties
with differing shades of foliage.
CAULIFLOWER. The general culture of Cauliflower is much like that of
cabbage, except that the Cauliflower, being more tender, should be more
thoroughly hardened off before setting out. Still, it is essential that
the plants be set out as early as possible, as the warm weather of June
causes them to make imperfect heads unless the soil is filled with
moisture. No garden crop will as well repay the cost and time of
thorough irrigation, either by running the water between the rows or
applying it directly to the plants. When it is impossible to furnish
water, it would be a good plan to mulch heavily with straw or some other
substance. This mulch, if put on just after a heavy rain, will hold the
moisture for a long time. When the heads begin to form the outside
leaves may be brought together and tied above the head, excluding the
direct sunshine and keeping the head white and tender. No vegetable will
respond more quickly to good culture and well manured soil than the
Cauliflower, and none will prove such an utter failure when neglected.
It is imperative that care be taken to destroy all the cabbage worms
before the leaves are tied in, as after that it will be impossible to
see or reach them. Cauliflower prospers best in moist soil and a cool
climate. From 1,000 to 1,500 plants may be grown from 1 ounce of seed.
Good Cauliflower seed is very expensive.
[Illustration: Cauliflower]
For winter crop, seeds may be started in June or July, as for late
cabbage.
Erfurt, Snowball and Paris are popular early varieties. Nonpareil and
Algiers are good late kinds.
CELERIAC, or TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY. This tuber has the celery flavor in a
pronounced degree, and is used for flavoring soups and for celery salad.
It may be served raw, sliced in vinegar and oil, or boiled. The culture
is the same as given for celery, except that no earthing or blanching is
required. About an equal number of plants are obtained from the same
weight of seed as from celery seed. Celeriac is extensively used abroad,
but, unfortunately, is little grown in America.
CELERY has become one of the favorite relish and salad vegetables, and
is now very generally grown. The self-blanching varieties have
simplified the culture so that the amateur, as well as the expert, may
have a supply through at least six months of the year. The so-called new
culture, which consists of setting the plants close together and causing
them to shade each other, can be recommended for the garden when a
supply of well rotted manure is to be had, and when any amount of water
is available. This method is as follows: Fork or spade into the soil a
large quantity of manure to the depth of 10-12 in., pulverize the soil
until the ground for the depth of 4-6 in. is in very fine condition.
Then set the plants in rows 10 in. apart and the plants but 5 or 6 in.
apart in the rows. It will be seen that plants set as close as this will
soon fill the soil with a mass of roots and must have large amounts of
plant-food, as well as a large quantity of water; and the making of such
a bed can be recommended only to those who can supply these needs.
[Illustration: Celery]
The common practice in home gardens is to plow or dig a shallow trench,
setting the plants in the bottom and hoeing in the soil as the plants
grow. The distance apart of the rows and plants will depend on the
varieties. For the dwarf varieties, such as White Plume, Golden
Self-blanching and others of that type, the rows may be as close as 3
ft. and the plants 6 in. in the rows. For the large-growing varieties,
as Kalamazoo, Giant Pascal and, in fact, most of the late varieties,
the rows may be from 4-1/2 to 5 ft. apart and the plants 7 or 8 in. in
the row.
The seed for an early crop should be sown in February or early in March
in shallow boxes, which may be placed in a hotbed or sunny window, or
sown directly in the soil of a hotbed. Cover the seeds thinly and press
the soil firmly over them. When the seedling plants are about one inch
high they should be transplanted to other boxes or hotbeds, setting the
plants 1 in. apart in rows 3 in. apart. At this transplanting, as with
the following ones, the tall leaves should be cut or pinched off,
leaving only the upright growth, as with the utmost care it is almost
impossible to prevent the outside leafstalks from wilting down and
dying. The roots of the plants should also be trimmed back at each
transplanting in order to increase the feeding roots. The plants should
be set as deep as possible, care being taken, however, not to allow the
heart of the plant to be covered up. The varieties usually grown for an
early crop are the so-called self-blanching varieties. They may be made
fit for the table with much less labor than the late crop, the shade
required to blanch the stalks being much less. When only a few short
rows are grown in a private garden, screens of lath may be made by
driving stakes on each side of the row and tacking lath on, leaving
spaces of an inch or more for the light to enter; or each head may be
wrapped in paper, or a tile drain pipe may be set over the plant. In
fact, any material that will exclude the light will render the stalks
white and brittle.
The seed for the main or fall crop should be sown in April or early May
in a seed bed prepared by forking fine, well rotted manure into a fine
soil, sowing the seed thinly in rows 8 or 10 in. apart, covering the
seed lightly and firming over the seed with the feet, hoe or back of a
spade. This seed bed should be kept moist at all times until the seed
germinates, either by close attention to watering or by a lath screen.
The use of a piece of cloth laid directly on the soil, and the bed wet
through the cloth, is often recommended, and if the cloth is always wet
and taken off the bed as soon as the seed sprouts it can be used. After
the young plants have grown to the height of 1 or 2 in. they must be
thinned out, leaving the plants so that they do not touch each other,
and transplanting those thinned--if wanted--to other ground prepared in
the same manner as the seed bed. All these plants may be sheared or cut
back to induce stockiness.
If in a private garden, the ground on which the fall crop is usually set
will likely be land from which a crop of some early vegetable has been
taken. This land should be again well enriched with fine, well rotted
manure, to which may be added a liberal amount of wood ashes. If the
manure or ashes are not easily obtained, a small amount may be used by
plowing or digging out a furrow 8 or 12 in. deep, scattering the manure
and ashes in the bottom of the trench and filling it up almost level
with the surface. The plants should be set about the middle of July,
preferably just before a rain. The plant bed should have a thorough
soaking shortly before the plants are lifted, and each plant be trimmed,
both top and root, before setting. The plants should be set from 5 to 6
in. apart in the rows and the earth well firmed around each one.
The after-cultivation consists in thorough tillage until the time of
"handling" or earthing up the plants. This process of handling is
accomplished by drawing up the earth with one hand while holding the
plant with the other, packing the soil well around the stalks. This
process may be continued until only the leaves are to be seen. For the
private grower, it is much easier to blanch the Celery with boards or
paper, or if the Celery is not wanted until winter, the plants may be
dug up, packed closely in boxes, covering the roots with soil, and
placed in a dark, cool cellar, where the stalks will blanch themselves.
In this manner Celery may be stored in boxes in the house cellar. Put
earth in the bottom of a deep box, and plant the Celery in it. An ounce
of seed will furnish about three thousand plants.
CENTAUREA. Showy annuals and perennials. _C. Cyanus_ is the CORN FLOWER
or BACHELOR BUTTON, familiar to every flower lover, and always seen in
old-fashioned gardens. This is a fine plant for borders or mixed beds,
and also gives good flowers for bouquets. A bunch of the Corn Flower,
with a sprinkling of yellow marigolds or California poppy, makes a rich
effect. These Centaureas are easy of culture, seeding themselves after
once being planted, and coming up year after year in great profusion.
There are blue, white and rose varieties. Annuals. 2-3 ft. Hardy.
The silver-leaved Centaureas are used only for foliage effects. They are
excellent for ribbon beds or border lines. The seed of these should be
started in a hotbed or box in March, the young plants being set out
where wanted when the ground becomes warm. These species are perennials,
and are sometimes grown from cuttings. _C. candidissima_ and _C.
gymnocarpa_ are among the best white-leaved bedders.
CENTRANTHUS. Low-growing hardy annuals in two colors, red and white.
They make very effective covering for low rockwork, and are also
suitable for vases or lawn baskets. Sow where the plants are to stand,
or start indoors if early bloom is wanted. 1 ft. Thin to 10-12 in.
apart.
CENTURY PLANT, or AGAVE. These are fine ornamental plants for the
window-garden or conservatory, requiring but little care and growing
slowly, thus needing repotting only at long intervals. When the plants
have outgrown their usefulness as house plants, they are still valuable
as porch decorations, for plunging in rockwork or about rustic nooks.
The striped-leaved variety is the most desirable, but the common type,
with its blue-gray leaves, is highly ornamental.
There are a number of dwarf-growing species of Agave that are not so
common, although they may be grown with ease. Such plants add novelty to
a collection, and may be used through the summer as noted above or
plunged with cactus in a bed of tropical plants. All succeed well in
loam and sand in equal parts, adding a little leaf-mold in the case of
the small varieties. The more common species are propagated by suckers
from around the base of the established plants. A few kinds having no
suckers must be grown from seed. As to watering, they demand no special
care. Agaves will not stand frost.
CEREUS. Under the name of NIGHT-BLOOMING CEREUSES, several species of
Cacti are cultivated. The name is sometimes applied to species of
Phyllocactus, the flowers of which, in white and shades of red,
sometimes open at nightfall. Phyllocactuses are easy to grow. See
_Cactus_. The true Night-blooming Cereuses, however, are species of the
genus Cereus. The commonest one is _C. nycticalus_, but _C.
grandiflorus_, _C. triangularis_ and others are occasionally seen. These
true Night-blooming Cereuses all have long rod-like stems, which are
cylindrical or angular. These stems often reach a height of 10 to 30
ft., and they need support. They should be trained along a pillar or
tied to a stake. They are uninteresting leafless things during a large
part of the year; but in midsummer, after they are three or more years
old, they throw out their great tubular flowers, which open at nightfall
and wither and die when the light strikes them next morning. They are
very easily grown, either in pots or planted in the natural soil in the
conservatory. The only special care they need is good drainage at the
roots, so that the soil will not become soggy.
CHERRY. Of Cherries there are two common types, the sweet Cherries and
the sour Cherries. The sweet Cherries are larger and taller-growing
trees. They comprise the varieties known as the Hearts, Bigarreaus and
Dukes. The sour Cherries include the various kinds of Morellos and pie
Cherries, and these usually ripen after the sweet Cherries. The sour
Cherries make low, round-headed trees. The fruits are extensively used
for canning. Cherry trees should be planted when 2 and 3 years old. Too
rich soil tends to make growth at the expense of fruit, particularly in
the sweet Cherries. For the sweet types, a strong, gravelly loam is
best. Sour Cherries thrive well on clay loams.
Trees of the sour Cherry should be planted 18 by 18 ft. apart, in well
prepared under-drained soil. The trees may be slightly trimmed back each
year, keeping the head low and bushy.
[Illustration: Sweet Cherry]
The sweet Cherries have proved disappointing in many instances from the
rotting of the fruit. This may never be entirely avoided, but good
cultivation, soil not too rich in nitrogen, attention to spraying, and
picking the fruit when dry, will lessen the loss very much. In years of
severe rotting, the fruit should be picked before it becomes fully ripe,
placed in a cool, airy room and allowed to color. It will be nearly as
well flavored as if left on the tree; and, as the fungus usually attacks
only the ripe fruit, a considerable part of the crop may be saved. Set
the trees 25 or 30 ft. apart.
[Illustration: Black Tartarian Cherry]
Leaf-blight is readily controlled by timely spraying with Bordeaux
mixture. The curculio or fruit worm is best controlled by jarring, as
for plums (which see).
Of sweet Cherries, Windsor is the most popular variety. Other good kinds
are Napoleon, Governor Wood, Dikeman, Black Tartarian. Of sour Cherries,
Ostheim and Early Richmond are very early and productive, but better
kinds are Montmorency and English Morello.
CHERVIL. The curled Chervil is a good addition to the list of garnishing
vegetables, and adds flavor to dishes when it is used to season. Sow
seeds and cultivate the same as parsley.
The tuberous Chervil resembles a short carrot or parsnip. It is much
esteemed in France and Germany. The tubers have somewhat the flavor of a
sweet potato, perhaps a little sweeter. They are perfectly hardy, and,
like the parsnip, the better for frosts. The seed may be sown in
September or October, as it does not keep well; or as soon as the ground
is fit to work in the spring, it being slow to germinate after the
weather becomes hot and dry. One packet of seed will give all the plants
necessary.
CHESTNUTS. Of Chestnuts there are three types in cultivation: the
European, the Japanese, and the American. The American, or native
Chestnuts, of which there are several improved varieties, are the
hardiest and most reliable, and the nuts are the sweetest, but they are
also the smallest. The Japanese varieties are usually injured by the
winter in central New York. The European varieties are somewhat hardier,
and some of the varieties will thrive in the northern states. Chestnuts
are very easily grown. They usually bear better when two or more trees
are planted near each other. There are few really good Chestnut orchards
in North America, but Chestnut planting is now considerably agitated.
Sprouts in old Chestnut clearings are often allowed to remain, and
sometimes they are grafted to the improved varieties. The young trees
may be grafted in the spring by the whip-graft or cleft-graft method;
but the cions should be perfectly dormant, and the operation should be
very carefully done. Even with the best workmanship, a considerable
percentage of the grafts are likely to fail or to break off after two or
three years. The most popular single variety of Chestnut is the Paragon,
which bears large and excellent nuts when the tree is very young. When
the home ground is large enough, two or three of these trees should be
planted near the borders.
CHICORY. The Magdeburg Chicory is the variety usually spoken of, it
being the one most extensively grown. The roots of this, after being
ground and roasted, are used either as a substitute or an adulterant of
coffee.
The Witloof, a form of Chicory, is used as a salad, or boiled and served
in the same manner as Cauliflower. The plants should be thinned to 6 in.
In the latter part of summer they should be banked up like celery, and
the leaves used after becoming white and tender. This and the common
wild Chicory are often dug in the fall, the leaves cut off, the roots
packed in sand in a cellar and watered until a new growth of leaves
starts. These leaves grow rapidly and are very tender, making a fine
salad vegetable. One packet of seed of the Witloof will furnish plants
enough for a large family.
[Illustration: Chrysanthemum]
CHRYSANTHEMUMS are both annual and perennial. The annual Chrysanthemums
must not be confounded with the well known fall-flowering kinds, as they
will prove a disappointment if one expects large flowers of all colors
and shapes. The annuals are mostly coarse-growing plants, with an
abundance of bloom and a rank smell. The flowers are single in most
cases, and not very lasting. They are useful for massing and also for
cut-flowers. They are among the easiest of hardy annuals to grow. The
stoniest part of the garden will usually suit them. 1-2 ft. Colors white
and shades of yellow, the flowers daisy-like.
Amongst perennial kinds, _Chrysanthemum frutescens_ is the well known
Paris Daisy or Marguerite, one of the most popular of the genus. This
makes a very fine pot-plant for the window-garden, blooming throughout
the winter and spring months. It is usually propagated by cuttings,
which, if taken in spring, will give large blooming plants for the next
winter. Gradually transfer to larger pots or boxes, until the plants
finally stand in 6-inch or 8-inch pots or in small soap boxes. There is
a fine yellow-flowered variety.
[Illustration: Chrysanthemums in a box]
In variety of form and color, and in size of bloom, the florists'
Chrysanthemum is one of the most wonderful of plants. It is a late
autumn flower, and it needs little artificial heat to bring it to
perfection. The great blooms of the exhibitions are produced by growing
only one flower to a plant and by feeding the plant heavily. It is
hardly possible for the amateur to grow such specimen flowers as the
professional florist or gardener does; neither is it necessary. A
well-grown plant with fourteen to twenty flowers is far more
satisfactory as a window plant than a long, stiff stem with only one
immense flower at the apex. Their culture is simple, much more so than
that of many of the plants commonly grown for house decoration. Although
their season of bloom is short, the satisfaction of having a fall
display of flowers before the geraniums, begonias and other house plants
have recovered from their removal from out of doors, repays all efforts.
[Illustration: Cutting of Chrysanthemum]
Cuttings taken in March or April, planted out in the border in May, well
tended through the summer and lifted before frost in September, will
bloom in October or November. The ground in which they are planted
should be moderately rich and moist. The plants may be tied to stakes.
When the buds show, all but the center one of each cluster on the
leading shoots should be picked off, as also the small lateral branches.
A thrifty bushy plant thus treated will usually have flowers large
enough to show the character of the variety, also enough flowers to make
a fine display. As to the receptacle into which to put them when lifted
from the border, it need not be a flower pot. A pail or soap box, with
holes bored for drainage, will suit the plant just as well, and by
covering the box with cloth or paper the difference will not be noticed.
If cuttings are not to be had, young plants may be bought of the
florists and treated in the manner described. Buy them in midsummer or
earlier.
[Illustration: Vase of small Chrysanthemums]
It is best not to attempt to flower the same plant two seasons. After
the plant has bloomed, the top may be cut down, and the box set in a
cellar and kept moderately dry. In February or March, bring the plant to
the sitting-room window and let the shoots start from the root. These
shoots are taken for cuttings to grow plants for the fall bloom.
[Illustration: Hardy Chrysanthemum]
There is a hardy race of Chrysanthemums, very excellent for the border.
Mulch in winter. The best bloom is usually given the first and second
years.
CINERARIA. A tender greenhouse plant. It may be grown as a house plant,
although the conditions necessary to the best results are hard to obtain
outside of a greenhouse. The conditions for their growing are a cool
temperature, frequent repotting and guarding against the attacks of the
greenfly. Perhaps the last is the most difficult, and with one having no
facilities for fumigating, it will be almost impossible to prevent the
difficulty. A living room usually has too dry air for Cinerarias. The
seed, which is very minute, should be sown in August or September to
have plants in bloom in January or February. Sow the seed on the surface
of fine soil and water very lightly to settle the seeds into the soil. A
piece of glass or a damp cloth may be spread over the pot or box in
which the seeds are sown, to remain until the seeds are up. Always keep
the soil damp, but not wet. When the seedlings are large enough to
repot, they should be potted singly in 2- or 3-inch pots. Before the
plants have become pot-bound, they should again be repotted into larger
pots, until they are in at least a 6-inch pot in which to bloom. In all
this time, they should be grown cool and, if not possible to fumigate
them with tobacco smoke, the pots should stand on tobacco stems, which
should be moist at all times. The general practice, in order to have
bushy plants, is to pinch out the center when the flower buds show,
causing the lateral branches to start, which they are slow to do if the
central stem is allowed to grow. Plants bloom but once.
CIVES. These belong to the onion family, and are propagated by division
of the root. They may be planted in a permanent place in the border,
and, being hardy, will remain for years. The leaves are the parts used,
as the roots are very rank in flavor. The leaves may be cut frequently,
as they readily grow again.
CLARKIA. The Clarkias are among the popular hardy edging and vase
annuals, bearing rose, white or bordered flowers in great profusion. The
double-flowering varieties are the most showy, but the single ones will
prove very satisfactory. The seeds may be sown where the plants are
wanted, or started in frames for earlier flowers. 6-18 in. high. Thin to
6-12 in. apart. Plant in a warm soil and sunny place.
CLEMATIS. One of the best of woody climbing vines. The common _C.
Flammula_, _Virginiana_, _paniculata_ and others are used frequently to
cover division walls or fences, growing year after year without any care
and producing quantities of flowers. _C. paniculata_ is now planted very
extensively. The panicles of star-shaped flowers entirely cover the vine
and have a pleasant fragrance. One of the best of all fall-flowering
vines, and hardy North. Clings well to a chicken-wire trellis.
The large-flowered section, of which Jackmani is perhaps the best known,
is very popular for pillar or porch climbers. The flowers of this
section are large and showy, running from pure white, through blue, to
scarlet. Of this class, the most serviceable purple is Jackmani; white,
Henryi; blue, Ramona; crimson, Madame E. Andre.
The Flammula class may be propagated by division of the roots. The
large-flowered kinds are propagated by layers or root-grafting on _C.
Flammula_ and others.
[Illustration: Clematis paniculata]
A deep, mellow, rich soil, naturally moist, will suit the requirements
of Clematis. In dry times apply water freely, particularly for the
large-flowered kinds. Also provide trellis or other support as soon as
they begin to run. Clematis usually blooms on the wood of the season:
therefore prune in winter or early spring, in order to secure strong new
flowering shoots. The large-flowered kinds should be cut back to the
ground each year; and other kinds may be similarly treated unless they
are wanted for permanent bowers.
The Clematis root disease is the depredation of a nematode or eel-worm.
It is seldom troublesome in ground which thoroughly freezes.
CLIMBERS. Treated under _Vines_.
COBAEA. This is most commonly seen in the greenhouse, although it is one
of the best of tender climbers for porches. Seed sown in February or
March, and grown in gentle heat, will make suitable plants for setting
out by June. It may also be grown from cuttings of the young wood, taken
in February and rooted in brisk heat. The flowers of _C. scandens_ are
shaped very much like those of the Campanulas, but are larger. They open
a greenish white and deepen to a dark purple in the course of a few
days. The vines in full bloom have a gradation of colors as the flowers
are in different stages of development. The variegated form of _C.
scandens_ should be propagated by cuttings to hold the variegation.
Grows 10-15 ft. Tender. Climbs by means of tendrils.
COCKSCOMB. _Celosia cristata_ is the well known Cockscomb, having combs
or heads of scarlet, crimson, rose and yellow. The combs are often
saved for winter bouquets by cutting them off before thoroughly ripe and
drying them. The feathered section comprises tall-growing plants with
plumes of various colors which, with the colored leaves of some
varieties, make a striking feature in a border. The Celosias, being
tender, should be started in a hotbed or frame, potted off when out of
the seed-leaf, and planted out in well enriched soil after danger of
frost is past, 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 ft. high.
COLDFRAME. A Coldframe is a simple, low structure, covered with glass or
oiled paper or cloth, in which plants are grown without artificial heat.
It differs from the hotbed in the fact that it has no bottom heat. The
atmosphere in the Coldframe is warmer than that outside, because it is
protected from the winds and because there is more or less of the sun's
heat stored up in the earth. For the details of construction of the
Coldframe, see _Hotbed_.
A Coldframe is ordinarily used for later work than the hotbed: that is,
seeds may be sown in a Coldframe from two to three and sometimes four
weeks in advance of their sowing in the open; whereas in a hotbed the
seeds may be started from one to three months earlier than they may be
out of doors. Coldframes are sometimes used for the wintering over of
hardy plants which are started in the fall. For example, cabbage seed
may be sown in September in a Coldframe and the young plants may be
protected therein during the winter. If they are properly grown and
hardened off, they will not be injured by the winter, even though they
freeze. Lettuce and sometimes cauliflowers are carried over in the same
way. Coldframes are also used to receive plants which have outgrown the
hotbed and must be transplanted. Plants which need hardening off may
also be transplanted from the hotbed into the Coldframe. The Coldframe
in these cases is an intermediate stage between the hotbed and the open
field.
COLEUS. A well known foliage plant for pot culture or bedding. It was
used very extensively at one time in ornamental bedding and ribbon
borders, but owing to its being tender has lost in favor, and its place
is largely taken by other plants. Cuttings root very readily. It may
also be grown from seed, although the types have not become fixed, and a
large number of differently marked plants may be had from the same
packet. This would not be a drawback in the window-garden, unless a
uniform effect is wished. Sow the seed in gentle heat in March. Make new
plants from cuttings each year, and throw the old ones away.
COLLARDS. This is a name given to a kind of kale, used when young as
greens; also to young cabbages used in the same way. The seed of any
early cabbage may be sown thickly in rows 18 inches apart, from early
spring to late fall. The plants are cut off when 6 or 8 inches high and
boiled as are other greens. The kale Collards is grown in the South,
where cabbages fail to head. It grows to the height of 2 to 6 feet,
furnishing a large quantity of leaves.
COLLINSIA. A hardy annual that should be sown in the fall, where wanted,
if early flowers are desired. The flowers of all the varieties are
showy, either in masses or planted in a border. Give them a position
near the front, as the plants rarely exceed 18 inches in height.
COLUMBINE. See _Aquilegia_.
COMPOST. See _Manure_.
CONVOLVULUS. See _Morning-Glory_.
COREOPSIS, or CALLIOPSIS. Very showy hardy annuals, growing from 1 to 3
feet high, and covered throughout the season with a profusion of bloom.
The colors range from lemon-yellow to dark velvety brown. Excellent for
cutting, and very effective in mixed borders. They thrive in any garden
soil if they have full sunlight. Sow where they are to grow, letting the
plants stand 6-12 in. apart for mass effects.
CORN SALAD. This is one of the earliest spring salad vegetables, coming
into condition to use with spinach, and needing the same culture. Sown
in the fall, and covered with straw or hay when cold weather sets in, it
will start into rapid growth when the covering is removed in March or
April. Or the seed may be sown in early spring, and plants will be fit
to use in six or eight weeks. One packet of seed will suffice for a
small family.
CORN, SWEET, is not so generally used as it should be. Usually when
planted at all, only one planting of one kind is made. The ears come to
edible maturity almost simultaneously, and a short season of Sweet Corn
is the result. The first planting should be made from May 1 to 10,
planting early, intermediate and late varieties at the same time, then
at intervals of two weeks until the middle of July, when the late
varieties should be planted, thus having a succession from the first
crop until October. The soil for Corn should be rich in plant-food, and
the coarser manure left from the preparation of the ground for small
crops may be used to good advantage. Corn for the garden is better
planted in drills, the drills 3 feet apart, dropping the seed from 10 to
12 inches apart in the drills. One quart of seed will plant 200 hills.
For extra early, Marblehead, Adams, Vermont, Minnesota and Early Cory
are favorites. For later crop, Crosby, Hickox, Shoe Peg and Stowell
Evergreen are now popular.
COSMOS. The Cosmos grown in a locality free from early fall frosts is
certainly a beautiful thing, but there are probably few flowers that
have caused so much disappointment to the flower lover in the North. The
seed germinates very freely. The plants grow with great vigor, and if
the season permits, an abundance of bloom may be had in September. An
early-flowering strain of dwarf Cosmos has been offered by the trade for
several years; and each year there seems to be an improvement in the
size and colors, so the time may shortly come when this will equal the
late-flowering varieties, making the culture of Cosmos more
satisfactory. Cosmos flowers are borne on long stems, and the colors are
in white and fine shades of red. The foliage is also fine. Seed should
be sown in gentle heat, in the greenhouse, hotbed or window in early
April, and the young plants transplanted when 2 inches high, setting the
plants well down in the soil and giving at least 3 inches between the
plants, as they are very likely to spindle up, with weak stems, if
crowded. When danger of frost is over, set them out in a warm, well
sheltered position, 3 feet apart. After the plants start into growth,
pinch out the top to induce a bushy growth. If situated where the wind
can whip them, they should have a stake driven close to the stem, and be
tied to it for support. Flowers of Cosmos are on the order of single
Dahlias.
CRANBERRY. The growing of Cranberries in artificial bogs is an American
industry. The common large Cranberry of markets is also a peculiarly
American fruit, since it is unknown in other countries except as the
fruit is shipped there. Cranberries are grown in bogs, which may be
flooded. The whole area is kept under water during the winter time,
largely to prevent the plants from winter injury by the heaving and
freezing and thawing of the bogs. Flooding is also employed at intervals
for the purpose of drowning out insects, mitigating drought, and
protecting against frost and fires. Every good Cranberry bog should have
facilities for flooding. The ordinary practice is to choose a bog which
has a creek running through it, or through which some creek or ditch may
be diverted. At the lower side of the bog flood gates are provided, so
that when the gates are shut the water backs up and floods the area. It
is best that the bog be comparatively flat, so that the water will be
of approximately equal depth over the whole area. At the shallowest
places the water should stand about a foot above the plants. The water
is usually let on the bog early in December and kept on until April or
early May. No flooding is done during the rest of the year unless there
is some particular occasion therefor.
All the wild and turfy growth should be taken off the bog before the
vines are set. This is done either by digging it off and removing it
bodily, or by drowning it out by means of a year's flooding. The former
method is generally considered to be the better. After the turfy growth
is removed, the bog is smoothed and covered 2 or 3 in. deep with clean
sand. The vines are now set, the lower ends of them being shoved through
the sand into the richer earth. In order to prevent a too rapid and
tangled growth of vine, it is customary to resand the bog every three or
four years to a depth of one-fourth or one-half inch. When sanding is
not practicable, the vines may be mown off when they become too
luxuriant.
The plants for setting are merely cuttings or branches of the vines.
These cuttings may be from 5 to 10 in. long. They are inserted into the
ground in a hole made by a crowbar or stick. They are usually planted at
distances of 12 to 18 in. each way, and the vines are allowed to cover
the entire ground as with a mat. In three years a good crop should be
secured, if the weeds and wild growth are kept down. A crop ranges
between 50 to 100 barrels per acre.
CRESS. The Upland Cress, or the true PEPPER GRASS, may be grown on any
garden soil. Sow early in the spring. It makes a rapid growth and can be
cut from four to five weeks. Succession of sowings must be made, as it
runs quickly to seed. The curled variety is the one usually grown, as
the leaves may be used for garnishing as well as for salads. One packet
of seed will be sufficient for each sowing. Any good soil will do. Sow
thickly in drills 12-18 in. apart. In summer it runs to seed quickly,
so that it is usually grown in spring and fall.
The Water Cress is more exacting in its culture, and can only be
successfully grown in moist places, such as edges of shallow,
slow-running creeks, open drains, or beds excavated near such streams. A
few plants for private use may be grown in a frame, provided a retentive
soil is used and attention given to watering the bed often. Water Cress
may be propagated from pieces of the stem, used as cuttings. If one is
fond of Water Cress, it is well to colonize it in some clean creek or
pool. It will take care of itself year by year. Seeds may also be used
for propagating it.
CROCUS. A hardy bulb, easily grown and giving good satisfaction either
in the border or scattered through the lawn. They are also forced for
winter (see _Bulbs_). They are so cheap and lasting that they may be
used in quantity. A border of them along the edges of walks, little
clumps of them in the lawn, or masses in a bed, give the first touch of
color as the spring opens. They may be forced with ease planted in pots
or shallow boxes, put away in a cool place and brought into the house at
any time through the winter. A low temperature will bring them into
bloom in perfection in about four weeks from the time they are brought
in. They can be had in the window-garden in this way.
A sandy soil suits the Crocus admirably. Plant in the fall, in the open,
setting them 3 to 4 inches deep. When they show signs of failing, take
up the bulbs and reset them. They tend to rise out of the ground,
because the new bulb or corm forms on the top of the old one. If best
results are desired, it is well to renew the bed occasionally by buying
new bulbs. Crocus beds may be filled later in the season with
quick-growing annuals.
CROTON. Under this name many varieties and so-called species of Codiaeum
are grown for conservatory decoration, and latterly for foliage bedding
in the open. The colors and shapes of the leaves are very various and
attractive. The Crotons make good window-garden subjects, although they
are very liable to the attack of the mealy bug. They are propagated
readily by cuttings of half-ripened wood any time during winter or
spring. The plants should be given an abundance of light in order to
bring out their fine colors; but it is usually advisable to screen them
from the direct rays of the sun when they are grown under glass. If the
red spider or the mealy bug attack them, they may be syringed with
tobacco water. Plants which are propagated indoors during the winter may
be massed in beds out of doors during the summer, where they make very
striking effects. Give them rich, deep soil, and be sure that they are
syringed frequently enough on the under side of the leaves to keep down
the red spider. If the plants have been gradually subjected to strong
light before they are taken out of doors, they will stand the full
sunlight and will develop their rich colors to perfection. In the fall
they may be taken up, cut back and used for window-garden or
conservatory subjects. Crotons are shrubs or small trees, and they may
be transferred into large pots or tubs and grown on into large tree-like
specimens.
CUCUMBER. For early use, the Cucumber is usually started in a hotbed or
coldframe by sowing the seed on pieces of sod 4 to 6 inches square,
turned grass side down. Three or four seeds are placed on or pushed into
each piece of sod and covered with 1 to 2 inches of fine soil. The soil
should be well watered and the glass or cloth placed over the frame. The
roots will run through the sod. When the plants are large enough to set
out, a flat trowel or a shingle may be slipped under the sod and the
plants moved to the hill without check. In place of sod, old quart berry
boxes are good; after setting in the hill the roots may force their way
through the cracks in the baskets. The baskets also decay rapidly.
Flower pots may be used. These plants from the frames may be set out
when danger of frost is over, usually by the 10th of May, and should
make a very rapid growth, yielding good-sized fruits in two months. The
hills should be made rich by forking in a quantity of well rotted
manure, and given a slight elevation above the garden--not high enough
to allow the wind to dry the soil, but slightly raised so that water
will not stand around the roots. One ounce of seed will plant fifty
hills. The hills may be 4-5 ft. apart each way.
[Illustration: Cucumbers]
The White Spine is the leading general-purpose variety. For very early
or pickling sorts, the Chicago, Russian, and other picklings are good.
The striped beetle is an inveterate pest on Cucumbers and squashes.
Following is the latest advice (Hall and Sirrine, New York State
Experiment Station): "Poisons can be used with success against these
beetles for only a short time in the spring, when they begin to feed;
and again, in the fall, against beetles of the new brood. This fall
poisoning will succeed only where there is not an abundance of wild fall
flowers; for the beetles will desert any poisoned crop for the
unpoisoned flowers and will feed upon the flowers to a considerable
extent, anyhow, if they are to be found. Green arsenite, dry, gave best
results. It was found a waste of the poisons to apply them in Bordeaux
mixture, as the mixture so repelled the insects that they would not eat
the sprayed vines to secure the poison. These poisons, applied in water,
are liable to burn or stunt the plants. It is necessary, then, if we
wish to poison the beetles, to use a trap crop to attract the insects
and to apply the poison to this crop instead of to the plants we design
to protect. On small areas it may be advisable to shut in the small
plants of the growing crop by the well known cloth-topped boxes; by the
tent-like cloth covers spread over arched hoops or wires; by boxes made
from a rectangular piece of cloth and two short 6-inch boards with
cleats attached to insert in the soil and hold the boards upright; or
even 6-inch wire plate-covers. Covers, however, are too expensive on
large areas, and they have the disadvantage of frequently making the
plants weak, so that winds will snap them off or twist and ruin them
when the covers have to be removed. If covers are used alone, their
removal leaves the unprotected vines not only for feeding places but for
breeding places for the beetles.
"Bordeaux mixture, if thoroughly and frequently applied, makes as
efficient a protection as the covers, is much cheaper, and at the same
time protects the plants from diseases. This mixture (1-to-11 formula)
should be sprayed upon the Cucumbers when they are just well up, again
when they show the third leaf, and the third time just before the plants
commence to form runners. The early application can probably best be
made with a knapsack sprayer, and later ones by any good pump sprayer.
The three applications should not cost over $2 per acre. The Bordeaux
mixture is a much better repellant, according to station tests, than
kerosene, turpentine, tobacco dust, cow manure, burdock infusion, slug
shot, bug death, or any other known compound. Indeed, all materials of
this class, supposed to drive away the beetles by their distasteful
odor, proved failures when used alone. Air-slaked lime, dusted over the
vines, will make them unpalatable to the beetles, but the lime is liable
to stunt the plants. It may be used, with care, by those whose crop is
not large enough to warrant purchase of a spraying outfit.
"All of these appliances or applications, covers, Bordeaux mixture or
lime, merely protect the young plants until they are strong enough to
stand the injury from the beetles; they do not kill the insects. To do
this, trap crops are needed. As the squash is the beetle's favorite food
plant, this vegetable should be planted--in single rows along the
margins of small patches, in several rows around large fields--about
four days before the Cucumbers or melon seeds are sown. When these trap
plants are up and the beetles appear about them, dust about half the
plants with green arsenite, reserving the other half for use if rain or
heavy dew makes the poison soluble and kills the vines first treated.
The beetles, attracted by their favorite tidbit, will feed upon the
squash vines and be poisoned by the arsenite. When the Cucumbers or
melons are up, unless they are protected by covers, spray with Bordeaux,
and poison more of the squash vines. When the beetles commence to pair,
the squashes may be cultivated up, leaving only a few vines for the
beetles to feed upon at flowering time, as the insects prefer the squash
flowers and will not molest the others. Beans may be used with some
success as a fall catch crop, where wild flowers are not too plentiful.
They should be planted on the Cucumber or melon fields; and when the
beetles leave the old vines to feed upon the fresh bean plants, they
should be treated to liberal doses of poison as well."
The mildew on the vines can be prevented by Bordeaux mixture spray.
[Illustration: Currants]
CURRANTS. The Currant, being one of the hardiest and most productive of
fruits, is often neglected, the patch allowed to become foul with grass,
never thinned or trimmed, the worms eating the leaves until, in the
course of time, the plants weaken and die. Along the fence is no place
to plant Currants, or, indeed, any other fruit; plant out in the open,
at least 5 feet from anything that will interfere with cultivation. No
fruit crop will respond more readily to good care than the Currant.
Clean cultivation and a liberal use of manure or fertilizers will
certainly be followed by well paying crops. One- or two-year-old plants
may be set 4 by 6 feet. Trim the bush by cutting off most of the suckers
below the surface of the ground. If the season is dry, a mulch of straw
or leaves will assist the plants to establish themselves.
The red and white Currants bear mostly on two-year-old or older wood. A
succession of young shoots should be allowed to grow to take the place
of the old bearing wood. Cut out the canes as they grow older. The
partial shade afforded by a young orchard suits the Currant well, and if
the ground is in good condition no bad results will follow to the
orchard, provided the Currants are removed before the trees need the
entire feeding space.
A Currant patch should continue in good bearing for 10 to 20 years, if
properly handled. One very important point is to keep the old, weak
canes cut out, and a succession of two to four new ones coming from the
root each year. For home use, White Imperial and Moore's Ruby are
excellent. Prince of Wales is a heavy bearer and excellent for cooking.
Wilder, Victoria, Cherry and White Grape are meritorious varieties.
To combat the Currant worm, spray thoroughly with Paris green to kill
the first brood, just as soon as holes can be seen in the lower
leaves--usually before the plants are in bloom. For the second brood, if
it appear, spray with white hellebore. For borers, cut out and burn the
affected canes.
CUTTINGS. Cuttings are parts of plants which are inserted in soil or
water with the intention that they shall grow and make new plants. They
are of various kinds. They may be classified, with reference to the age
of the wood or tissue, into two classes; viz., those made from perfectly
hard or dormant wood (taken from the winter twigs of trees and bushes),
and those made from more or less immature or growing wood. They may be
classified again in respect to the part of the plants from which they
are taken, as root Cuttings, tuber Cuttings (as the ordinary "seed"
planted for potatoes), stem Cuttings and leaf Cuttings.
[Illustration: The planting of dormant wood Cuttings]
Dormant wood Cuttings are used for grapes, currants, gooseberries,
willows, poplars and many other kinds of soft-wooded trees and shrubs.
Cuttings are ordinarily taken in fall or winter, but cut into the proper
lengths and then buried in sand or moss where they do not freeze, in
order that the lower end may heal over or callus. In the spring these
Cuttings are set in the ground, preferably in a rather sandy and well
drained place. Usually, hardwood Cuttings are made with two to four
joints or buds, and when they are planted, only the upper bud projects
above the ground. They may be planted erect, as the picture shows, or
somewhat slanting. In order that the Cutting may reach down to moist
earth, it is desirable that it should not be less than 6 inches long;
and it is sometimes better if it is 8 to 12 inches. If the wood is
short-jointed, there may be several buds on a Cutting of this length;
and, in order to prevent too many shoots from arising from these buds,
the lowermost buds are often cut out. Roots will start as readily if the
lower buds are removed, since the buds grow into shoots and not into
roots. Cuttings of currants, grapes, gooseberries, and the like may be
set in rows which are far enough apart to admit of easy tillage either
with horse or hand tools, and the Cuttings may be placed from 3 to 8
inches apart in the row. After the Cuttings have grown for one season,
the plants are usually transplanted and given more room for the second
year's growth, after which time they are ready to be set in permanent
plantations. In some cases, the plants are set at the end of the first
year; but two-year plants are stronger and usually preferable.
[Illustration: Root Cutting, which has given rise to a shoot]
Root Cuttings are used for blackberries, raspberries, and a few other
things. They are ordinarily made of roots from the size of a lead pencil
to one's little finger, and are cut in lengths from 3 to 5 inches long.
The Cuttings are stored the same as stem Cuttings and allowed to
callus. In the spring they are planted in a horizontal or nearly
horizontal position in moist, sandy soil, being entirely covered to a
depth of 1 or 2 inches.
Softwood or greenwood Cuttings are always rooted under cover; that is,
in a greenhouse, coldframe or dwelling house. They are usually made of
wood which is mature enough to break when it is bent sharply. When the
wood is so soft that it will bend and not break, it is too immature, in
the majority of plants, for the making of good Cuttings. One to two
joints is the proper length of a greenwood Cutting. If of two joints,
the lower leaf should be cut off and the upper leaves cut in two, so
that they do not present their entire surface to the air and thereby
evaporate the plant juices too rapidly. If the Cutting is of only one
joint, the lower end is usually cut just above a joint. In either case,
the Cuttings are usually inserted in sand or well washed gravel, nearly
or quite up to the leaves. Keep the bed uniformly moist throughout its
depth, but avoid any soil which holds so much moisture that it becomes
muddy and sour. These Cuttings should be shaded until they begin to emit
their roots. Coleus, geraniums, fuchsias, and nearly all the common
greenhouse and house plants, are propagated by these Cuttings or slips.
Leaf Cuttings are often used, for the fancy-leaved begonias, gloxinias,
and a few other plants. The young plant usually arises most readily from
the leaf-stalk or petiole. The leaf, therefore, is inserted into the
ground much as a green Cutting is. Begonia leaves, however, will throw
out young plants from the main veins when these veins or ribs are cut.
Therefore, well-grown and firm begonia leaves are sometimes laid flat on
the sand and the main veins cut; then the leaf is weighted down with
pebbles or pegs so that these cut surfaces come into intimate contact
with the soil beneath. The begonia leaf may be treated in various other
ways and still give good results. See _Begonia_.
In the growing of all greenwood Cuttings, it is well to remember that
they should have a gentle bottom heat; the soil should be such that it
will hold moisture and yet not remain wet; the air about the tops should
not become close and stagnant, else the plants will damp off; and the
tops should be shaded for a time.
[Illustration: Cuttings inserted in a double pot]
An excellent method of starting Cuttings in the living room is to make a
double pot, as shown in the picture. Inside a 6-inch pot, set a 4-inch
pot. Fill the bottom, _a_, with gravel or bits of brick, for drainage.
Plug the hole in the inside pot. Fill the spaces between, _c_, with
earth, and in this set the Cuttings. Water may be poured into the inner
pot, _b_, to supply the moisture.
CUTWORMS. Probably the remedy for Cutworms most often practiced in
gardens, and which cannot fail to be effective when faithfully carried
out, is hand-picking with lanterns at night or digging them out from
around the base of the infested plants during the day. Bushels of
Cutworms have been gathered in this way, and with profit. When from some
cause success does not attend the use of the poisoned baits, discussed
next, hand-picking is the only other method yet recommended which can be
relied upon to check Cutworm depredations.
By far the best methods yet devised for killing Cutworms in any
situation are the poisoned baits; hand-picking is usually unnecessary
where they are thoroughly used. Poisoned bunches of clover or weeds have
been thoroughly tested, even by the wagon-load, over large areas, and
nearly all have reported them very effective; lamb's quarters (pigweed),
pepper-grass and mullein are among the weeds especially attractive to
Cutworms. On small areas the making of the baits is done by hand, but
they have been prepared on a large scale by spraying the plants in the
field, cutting them with a scythe or machine, and pitching them from
wagons in small bunches wherever desired. Distributed a few feet apart
between rows of garden plants at nightfall, they have attracted and
killed enough Cutworms often to save a large proportion of the crop; if
the bunches can be covered with a shingle, they will keep fresher much
longer. The fresher the baits, and the more thoroughly the baiting is
done, the more Cutworms one can destroy. However, it may sometimes
happen that a sufficient quantity of such green succulent plants cannot
be obtained early enough in the season in some localities. In this case,
and we are not sure but in all cases, the poisoned bran mash can be used
to the best advantage. It is easily made and applied at any time, is not
expensive, and thus far the results show that it is a very attractive
and effective bait. A tablespoonful can be quickly dropped around the
base of each cabbage or tomato plant, small amounts can be easily
scattered along the rows of onions, turnips, etc., or a little dropped
on a hill of corn, cucumbers, etc. It was used on sweet potato hills in
New Jersey last year, and "served as a complete protection, the Cutworms
preferring the bran." It is well to apply it on the evening of the day
the plants are set out.
The best time to apply these poisoned baits is two or three days before
any plants have come up or been set out in the garden. If the ground has
been properly prepared, the worms will have had but little to eat for
several days and they will thus seize the first opportunity to appease
their hunger upon the baits, and wholesale destruction will result. The
baits should always be applied at this time wherever Cutworms are
expected. But it is not too late usually to save most of a crop after
the pests have made their presence known by cutting off some of the
plants. Act promptly and use the baits freely.--_M. V. Slingerland._
[Illustration: Protection from cutworms]
Cutworms may be kept away from plants by making a collar of stiff paper
or tin about the base, as in the picture; but this is not practicable on
a large scale.
CYCLAMEN. A tender greenhouse tuberous plant, sometimes seen in the
window-garden. Cyclamens may be grown from seed sown in April or
September in soil containing a large proportion of sand and leaf-mold.
If sown in September, they should be wintered in a coolhouse. In May
they should be potted into larger pots and placed in a shaded frame, and
by July will have become large enough for their flowering pot, which
should be either a 5- or 6-inch one. They should be brought into the
house before danger of frost, and grown cool until through flowering. A
temperature of 55 deg. suits them while in flower. After flowering, they
will need a rest for a short time, but should not become very dry, or
the bulb will be injured. When they start into growth, they should have
the old soil shaken off and be potted into smaller pots. At no time
should more than half the tuber be under the soil.
Tubers large enough to flower the first year may be obtained from the
seedsmen at moderate prices; and unless one has facilities for growing
the seedlings for a year, purchase of the tubers will give the best
satisfaction. The soil best suited to the Cyclamen is one containing two
parts leaf-mold, 1 part each of sand and loam.
DAFFODILS are a kind of Narcissus. They are hardy, and require the
treatment recommended for Crocus. They may be naturalized in the grass,
but they usually do not persist long on account of our hot, dry summers.
Daffodils have been much improved of late. Plant in the fall, 4-6 in.
deep. Excellent old garden plants.
DAHLIA. The Dahlia is an old favorite which, on account of its formal
flowers, has been in disfavor for a few years, although it has always
held a place in the rural districts. Now, however, with the advent of
the cactus and semi-cactus types (or loose-flowered forms), and the
improvement of the singles, it again has taken a front rank among late
summer flowers, coming in just in advance of the Chrysanthemum.
[Illustration: Dahlia]
The single varieties may be grown from seed, but the double sorts should
be grown from cuttings of young stems or from division of the roots. If
cuttings are to be made, it will be necessary to start the roots early
either in a hotbed or house. When the growth has reached 4 or 5 inches,
they may be cut from the plant and rooted in sand. Care should be taken
to cut just below the joint, as a cutting made between two joints will
not form tubers. The most rapid method of propagation of named varieties
is to grow from cuttings in this way. In growing the plants from roots,
the best plan is to place the whole root in gentle heat, covering
slightly. When the young growth has started, the roots may be taken up,
divided, and planted out 3 to 4 feet apart. This plan will ensure a
plant from each piece of root, whereas if the roots are divided while
dormant, there is danger of not having a bud at the end of each piece,
in which case no growth will start.
[Illustration: Dahlia]
The Dahlia flourishes best in a deep, rich, moist soil, although very
good results can be had on sandy soil, provided plant-food and moisture
are furnished. Clay should be avoided. If the plants are to be grown
without stakes, the center of each plant should be pinched out after
making two or three joints. By doing this the lateral branches will
start near the ground and be stiff enough to withstand the winds. In
most home gardens the plants are allowed to reach their full height, and
are tied to stakes if necessary. Dahlias are very susceptible to frost.
The tall kinds reach a height of 5-8 feet.
After the first frost, lift the roots, let them dry in the sun, shake
off the dirt, trim off tops and broken parts, and store them in a
cellar as you would potatoes. Cannas may be stored in the same place.
DAISY. The perennial English Daisy, or _Bellis perennis_, is a prime
favorite as an edging plant. The cheerful little flowers show early in
the spring, and with a little care bloom continuously through a long
season. They should be given well enriched, moist soil, and be mulched
through hot weather. The usual method of propagation is by division of
the crowns, made in cool weather. They may also be grown from seed, but
the chances are that many inferior flowers will be produced. Set the
plants 3 or 4 inches apart. Height 3 to 5 inches. The colors are white,
pink and red. Hardy if mulched in winter, but best results are obtained
if plants are renewed frequently.
Many other plants are called Daisy, particularly the wild Asters, the
Ox-eye Daisy or Whiteweed, and the Paris Daisy (_Chrysanthemum
frutescens_).
DAMPING OFF is the rotting off of cuttings or young plants near the
surface of the soil. It is the work of fungi; but these fungi are
injurious because they find conditions congenial to their rapid growth.
Prevention is worth more than cure. See that the soil is wet clear
through, not wet on top and dry beneath. Keep it as dry as possible on
the surface. Avoid soggy soils. On peaty soils, sprinkle sand or coal
ashes to keep the top dry. Give the plants free circulation of air. Give
them abundance of room. If Damping Off threatens, transplant.
DANDELION. This common weed would hardly be recognized if seen under
cultivation in the vegetable garden. The plants attain a large size and
the leaves are much more tender. The seed may be selected from the best
field-growing plants, but it is better to buy the French seed of the
seedsmen.
Sow in spring in well manured soil, either in drills or in hills 1 foot
apart. A cutting of leaves may be had in September or October, and some
of the stools may stand until spring. The delicacy of the leaves may be
improved by blanching them, either by the use of boards or earth. One
trade packet of seed will supply a large number of plants. The whole
plant is destroyed when the crop of leaves is taken.
DATURA. BRUGMANSIA. Large-growing annuals with large, trumpet-shaped
flowers. The coloring of some of the flowers is very attractive, but the
odor of the plant is unpleasant. Plants should be set 4 feet apart. They
grow 3-4 feet high, bear large leaves, and therefore make good low
screens. Frost kills them. Sow seed where plants are to grow; or,
better, start them in the house three or four weeks before the weather
is fit for planting outside. Some of the Daturas are weeds. The great
spiny seed pods are interesting.
DELPHINIUM. See _Larkspur_.
DEWBERRY. The Dewberry may be called an early trailing blackberry. The
culture of this, as of the blackberry, is very simple; but, unlike the
latter, some support should be given to the canes, as they are very
slender and rank growers. A wire trellis or large-meshed fence-wire
answers admirably; or (and this is the better general method) they may
be tied to stakes. The fruits are large and showy, which, combined with
their earliness, makes them desirable; but they are usually deficient in
flavor. The Lucretia is the leading variety in cultivation.
[Illustration: Lucretia Dewberry]
Lay the canes on the ground in winter. In the spring tie all the canes
from each plant to a stake. After fruiting, cut the old canes and burn
them (as for blackberries). In the meantime, the young canes (for next
year's fruiting) are growing. These may be tied up as they grow, to be
out of the way of the cultivator. Dewberries are one to two weeks
earlier than blackberries.
DIANTHUS, or PINK. Under this head are included Chinese Pinks, Sweet
William, Picotee, Carnation (which see), and the perennial or Grass
Pinks. All of them are general favorites.
The Chinese Pinks (_Dianthus Chinensis_, or _Heddewigii_) are now very
popular. They are biennials, but flower the first year from seed, and
are treated as hardy annuals. They have a wide range of color and
markings. Some of them are as double as a rose, and are edged, splashed
or lined with other colors. The single ones are very brilliant and are
profuse bloomers. Sow seeds where plants are to stand, or if early bloom
is desired, start in the house. Set the plants 6-10 in. apart. They grow
8-15 in. high. They bloom until after frost. Of easiest culture in any
good soil, and should be even more popular. The petals are often quite
deeply and oddly cut.
The Sweet William is an old-fashioned perennial, having flowers of many
combinations of color, growing for several years when once planted, but
being the better for renewal every two years. Raising new stock from
seeds is usually better than dividing old plants. Of late years, the
Sweet William has been much improved.
The perennial garden or Grass Pinks are low-growing, with highly
perfumed flowers. They are very useful for permanent edgings, although
the grass is likely to run them out unless a clean strip is kept on
either side. Divide the old plants when the edging begins to fail; or
raise new plants from seed. Seedlings usually do not bloom much the
first year. Usually perfectly hardy.
[Illustration: Dibbers]
DIBBERS are hand tools used for making holes in which to set plants or
to drop seeds. They are better than a hoe or a spade for most
transplanting. For small plants, as cabbages and tomatoes, a cylindrical
Dibber is generally used. (See the lower one in the cut.) It can be made
from an old spade handle or any hardwood stick. When broad holes are
wanted, the triangular iron Dibber (sold by dealers) is excellent. It is
particularly useful in hard soils.
DICENTRA includes the Bleeding Heart; also the native little Dutchman's
Breeches and Squirrel Corn, and a few other species. All are hardy
perennials of the easiest culture, blooming in spring. In common with
all perennial herbs, they are benefited by a winter mulch of leaves or
litter. Propagated by dividing the clumps.
DICTAMNUS. FRAXINELLA or GAS PLANT. An old border plant (perennial herb)
with white or pale red flowers. The leaves of the plant emit a strong
odor when rubbed, likened to that of the lemon verbena. It has been
advertised as the Gas Plant from the fact that the plant exudes an oily
matter that may be ignited, especially in warm, dry weather. Propagated
by seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe. The plant blooms the
third year, and improves with age. Set plants 3 feet apart. Height 2 to
3 feet.
DILL. An annual aromatic herb that will seed itself if seeds are left to
ripen, and an abundance of plants may always be had. The culture is of
the easiest. The seeds are often used to flavor pickles.
DISEASES. Diseases of plants may be caused by some physiological
disturbance to the plant system, or by the incursions of some parasitic
organism, as insects or fungi. The work of insects, however, is
ordinarily not classed with plant Diseases (see _Insects_). Of Diseases
which are caused by plant parasites or by physiological disturbances,
there are two general groups:
(1) Parasitic fungous Diseases, such as the apple-scab, black-rot and
mildew of the grape, leaf-blight of the plum and pear, black-knot, and
the like. These Diseases are characterized by definite spots,
discolorations or excrescences, which are more or less scattered over
the surface of the leaf, fruit or branch. As a rule, the leaves and
fruits which are attacked have a tendency to drop from the tree. The
general treatment for these Diseases is to spray with some fungicidal
mixture, like the Bordeaux mixture or the ammoniacal carbonate of
copper. The treatment is useful in proportion as it is applied early and
thoroughly. After the fungus once gets into the tissues of the
host-plant, it is difficult, if not impossible, to kill it. If, however,
the fungicide is upon the plant before the fungus is, the parasite may
not be able to obtain a foothold. Even after it does obtain a foothold,
it is probable, however, that the spray will check its spread by
preventing the development of its external parts.
(2) The physiological and bacterial Diseases, or those which are termed
constitutional troubles. In these cases there are rarely any definite
spots, as in the attacks of parasitic fungi, but the entire leaf, or
even the entire plant, or a large part of it, shows a general weakening
and Disease, as if there were some cutting off of the accustomed source
of nourishment. Such Diseases are very likely to be seen in a general
yellowing and death of the leaf, in the dying of the leaf along the main
veins and around the edges, showing that the difficulty is one which
affects the entire leaf, and not any particular part of it. In general,
there is a tendency for the foliage in plants so attacked to wither up
and hang on the tree for a time. The peach-yellows and pear blight are
Diseases of this kind. There are no specific treatments for troubles of
this sort. They must be approached by what physicians call
prophylaxis--that is, by methods of sanitation and prevention. The
diseased plants or parts are cut away and burned. All those conditions
which seem to favor the development of the Disease are removed.
Varieties which are particularly susceptible are discarded. Careful
management in matters of this sort is often much more important than any
attempt at specific treatment.
DOLICHOS. Mentioned under _Hyacinth Bean_.
DRACAENAS of the conservatories (properly mostly CORDYLINES) are
sometimes used as house plants. Protect from direct sunlight, keep an
even and fairly high temperature, water freely when they are growing.
When the plants begin to fail, return them to the florist for
recuperation, where they may have equable conditions. They are handsome
long-leaved foliage plants, excellent for jardinieres.
DRAINAGE serves two purposes: first, to carry superfluous water from the
land; second, to lower the water-table or hard-pan, and to make the soil
loose and friable above. Nearly all hard clay lands are much benefited
by draining, even though they are not too wet. The region of free or
standing water is lowered and air is admitted into the soil, rendering
it fine and mellow. For carrying off mere surface water, surface or open
ditches are sufficient; but if the soil is to be ameliorated, the drain
must be beneath the surface. The best underdrains are those which use
hollow or cylindrical tiles, but very good results may be had by making
drains from stones. In regions where there are many flat stones, a very
good conduit may be laid with them, but they are likely to get out of
order. If there is considerable fall to the ditch, the bottom may be
filled for the space of 10 inches or a foot with common stones rolled
in, and the water will find its way between them. If the stones are even
deeper than this, the results will be better; and such ditches also
provide place for disposing of superfluous stones.
The deeper the ditch the further it will draw on either side. It should
always be deep enough to be protected from freezing, particularly if
tiles are used. Three feet should be the least depth, and 3-1/2 feet is
a good average depth. Drains as deep as this need not be placed oftener
than 2 to 3 rods apart, unless, in garden conditions, it is desired to
very thoroughly ameliorate a heavy clay soil, in which case they may be
placed every 20 feet. The better the fall the quicker the drain will act
and the more permanent it will be, as it will tend to clean itself and
not fill up with silt. It is important that the outlet be entirely free,
and it should be protected with stones or mason work. The roots of some
trees, particularly of willows and elms, are attracted by tile drains,
and often fill up the pipes. When the drain goes near such trees,
therefore, it is well to cement the joints. In general practice,
however, the joints should not be cemented, because a large part of the
drainage water enters at those places. In laying the tiles, it is well
to cover the joints with inverted sod, tarred paper, wisps of straw,
stones or other material. This prevents the fresh earth from falling in
between the joints, and by the time the material is decayed the earth
will have become so thoroughly set that no further trouble will result.
Although under-drains take off superfluous water, nevertheless an
under-drained soil will hold more moisture than one which is not
drained, particularly in the case of clay lands with high subsoils. This
is because fine, mallow soils are able to hold more moisture than very
loose and open or very dense and compact ones. A well constructed
underdrain should last indefinitely.
DUTCHMAN'S PIPE. See _Aristolochia_.
ECHEVERIA. Tender succulents largely used for carpet bedding and rock
gardens. _Echeveria secunda_ is sometimes called OLD-HEN-AND-CHICKENS,
from the little plants that grow out from the stem of the parent plant
and show around the edges of the rosette top; but the hardy
Hen-and-Chickens of old gardens is a different but closely allied plant
(_Sempervivum tectorum_). All the species are of easy culture and thrive
on sandy soil. They should not be planted out until all danger of frost
is over and the ground thoroughly warm. Propagated by the offsets.
Height 3 inches. The name Echeveria is now given up by botanists for
_Cotyledon_.
EGG-PLANT. GUINEA SQUASH. Unless one has a greenhouse or a very warm
hotbed, the growing of Egg-plants in the North should be left to the
professional gardener, as the young plants are very tender, and should
be grown without a check. The seed should be sown in the hotbed or
greenhouse about April 10, keeping a temperature of from 65 deg. to 70 deg.
When the seedlings have made three rough leaves, they may be pricked out
into shallow boxes, or, still better, into 3-inch pots. The pots or
boxes should be plunged to the rim in soil in a hotbed or coldframe so
situated that protection may be given on chilly nights. The 10th of June
is early enough to plant them out in central New York. The soil in which
they are to grow cannot well be made too rich, as they have only a short
season in which to develop their fruits. The plants are usually set 3
feet apart each way. A dozen plants are sufficient for the needs of a
large family, as each plant should yield from two to six large fruits.
The fruits are fit to eat at all stages of growth, from those the size
of a large egg to their largest development. One ounce of seed will
furnish 600 to 800 plants.
[Illustration: New York Purple Egg-plant]
The New York Improved Purple is the standard variety. Black Pekin is
good. For early, or for a short-season climate, the Early Dwarf Purple
is excellent.
ENDIVE. As a fall salad vegetable, this should be better known, it being
far superior to lettuce at that time and as easily grown. For fall use,
the seed may be sown from June to August, and as the plants become fit
to eat about the same time from sowing as lettuce does, a succession may
be had until cold weather. The plants will need protection from the
severe fall frosts, and this may be given by carefully lifting the
plants and transplanting to a frame, where sash or cloth may be used to
cover them in freezing weather. The leaves, which constitute practically
the whole plant, are blanched before being used, either by tying
together with some soft material or by standing boards on each side of
the row, allowing the top of the boards to meet over the center of the
row. The rows should be 1-1/2 or 2 feet apart, the plants 1 foot apart
in the rows. One ounce of seed will sow 150 feet of drill.
ESCHSCHOLTZIA. See _California Poppy_.
EUTOCA. Hardy early-flowering annuals having pink or blue flowers, good
for masses. Sow seed early where wanted. Height 1 foot. Eutocas are
properly classed with Phacelias.
EVERGREENS. Evergreens are plants which hold their foliage in winter.
Ordinarily, however, in this country the word Evergreen is understood to
mean coniferous trees with persistent leaves, as pines, spruces, firs,
cedars, junipers, arborvitae, retinosporas, and the like. These trees
have always been favorites with plant lovers, as they have very
distinctive forms and other characteristics. Many of them are of the
easiest culture. It is a common notion that, since spruces and other
conifers grow so symmetrically, they will not stand pruning; but this is
an error. They may be pruned with as good effect as other trees, and if
they tend to grow too tall the leader may be cut out without fear. A new
leader will arise, but in the meantime the upward growth of the tree
will be somewhat checked, and the effect will be to make the tree dense.
The tips of the branches may also be headed in with the same effect. The
beauty of an Evergreen lies in its natural form; therefore, it should
not be sheared into unusual shapes, but a gentle trimming back, as
suggested, will tend to prevent the Norway spruce and others from
growing open and ragged. After the tree attains some age, 4 or 5 inches
may be taken off the ends of the main branches every year or two with
good results. This slight trimming is ordinarily done with Waters'
long-handled pruning shears.
There is much difference of opinion as to the proper time for the
transplanting of Evergreens, which means that there is more than one
season in which they may be moved. It is ordinarily unsafe to transplant
them in the fall in northern climates or bleak situations, since the
evaporation from the foliage during the winter is likely to injure the
plant. The best results are usually secured when they are transplanted
just as new growth is beginning, rather late in the spring. Some people
also plant them in August, and the roots secure a hold of the soil
before winter. In transplanting conifers, it is very important that the
roots be not exposed to the sun. They should be moistened and covered
with burlaps or other material. The holes should be ready to receive
them. If the trees are large, or if it has been necessary to trim in the
roots, the top should be cut when the tree is set. Large Evergreens
(those 10 feet and more high) are usually best transplanted late in
winter, at a time when a large ball of earth may be moved with them. A
trench is dug around the tree, it being deepened a little day by day so
that the frost can work into the earth and hold it in shape. When the
ball is thoroughly frozen, it is hoisted onto a stone-boat and moved to
its new position.
For low hedges or screens, one of the most serviceable Evergreens is the
arborvitae in its various forms. Red cedars are also useful. Perhaps the
handsomest of all of them for such purposes is the ordinary hemlock
spruce; but it is usually difficult to move. Transplanted trees from
nurseries are usually safest. If the trees are taken from the wild, they
should be selected from open and sunny places. For neat and compact
effects near porches and along walks, the dwarf retinosporas are very
useful. Most of the pines and spruces are too coarse for planting very
close to the house. They are better at some distance removed, where they
serve as a background to other planting. If they are wanted for
individual specimens, they should be given plenty of room, so that the
limbs will not be crowded and the tree become misshapen. Whatever else
is done to the spruces and firs, the lower limbs should not be trimmed
up, at least not until the tree has become so old that the lowest
branches die. Some species hold their branches much longer than others.
The oriental spruce (_Picea orientalis_) is one of the best in this
respect. The occasional slight heading-in, which we have mentioned, will
tend to preserve the lower limbs, and it will not be marked enough to
alter the form of the tree.
EVERLASTINGS are flowers which retain their shape and usually their
color when they are dried. Most of them are members of the composite
family. In order to have them hold shape and color, cut them with very
long stems just before they are fully expanded, and hang them in an airy
place away from the sun. They are all annuals, or grown as such, and are
of very easy culture. Sow seeds where the plants are to stand. Good
kinds are Ammobium, Gomphrena or Bachelor's Buttons, Rhodanthe,
Helichrysum, Xeranthemum, and Acroclinium. Certain wild composites may
be similarly used, particularly Anaphalis and species of Gnaphalium.
Some of the grasses make excellent additions to dry bouquets (see
_Grass_). With these dry bouquets, various seed pods look well.
FENZLIA. Little hardy annuals, having a profusion of bloom through the
entire summer. The flowers are a delicate pink, with yellow throat
surrounded by dark spots. A charming edging plant or window box subject.
Sow the seed in boxes or where plants are wanted, and thin to the
distance of 10 inches. Height 3 to 4 inches. Now classed with Gilia.
FERNS. Probably the one Fern grown most extensively as a house plant is
the small-leaved Maidenhair Fern (or _Adiantum gracillimum_). This and
other species are among the finest of house plants, when sufficient
moisture can be given. They make fine specimens, as well as serving the
purpose of greenery for cut-flowers. Other species often grown for house
plants are _A. cuneatum_ and _A. Capillus-Veneris_. All these do well in
a mixture of fibrous sod, loam, and sand, with ample drainage material.
They may be divided if an increase is wanted.
Other Ferns for house culture include _Nephrolepis exaltata_. This is no
doubt the most easily grown of the list, flourishing in a sitting-room.
The new variety of _N. exaltata_, called the Boston Fern (see figure),
is a decided addition to this family, having a drooping habit, covering
the pot and making a fine stand or bracket plant.
[Illustration: Boston Fern]
Several species of Pteris, particularly _P. serrulata_, are valuable
house Ferns, but require a warmer situation than those mentioned above.
They will also thrive better in a shady or ill-lighted corner.
Perfect drainage and care in watering have more to do with the
successful growing of Ferns than any special mixture of soils. If the
drainage material in the bottom of the pot or box is sufficient, there
is little danger of over-watering; but water-logged soil is always to be
avoided. Do not use clay soils. Ferns need protection from the direct
sunshine, and also a moist atmosphere. They thrive well in a close glass
box, or window-garden, if the conditions can be kept equable.
The native Ferns transplant easily to the garden, and they make an
attractive addition to the side of a house, or as an admixture in a
hardy border. The Ostrich and Cinnamon Ferns are the best subjects. Give
all outdoor Ferns a place which is protected from winds, otherwise they
will shrivel and perhaps die. Screen them from the hot sun, or give them
the shady side of the building. See that the soil is uniformly moist,
and that it does not get too hot. Mulch with leaf-mold in the fall.
FERTILIZERS. Soil is productive when it has good physical texture,
plant-food, and a sufficient supply of moisture. Even though it has an
abundance of plant-food, if its texture is not good, it will not raise a
good crop. Soil has good texture when it is open, mellow, friable,
rather than loose and leachy, or hard and cloddy. Commercial Fertilizers
add plant-food, but usually they have only a small influence in
correcting faulty texture. Therefore, before concentrated Fertilizers
are applied to land, it should be gotten into good physical condition by
judicious tillage and by the incorporation of vegetable mold or humus.
The leading source of humus in most gardens is stable manure. See
_Manure_.
The plant-food in commercial Fertilizers is largely in a soluble or
quickly available condition. Therefore, a little Fertilizer applied late
in the fall or early in the spring will tend to start the plants off
quickly in the spring and to cause them to become established before the
trying weather of summer. For garden purposes, it is usually advisable
to buy one of the so-called complete Fertilizers; that is, one which
contains nitrogen, potash and phosphoric acid. If a luxuriant growth of
stalk and foliage is wanted rather than flowers or fruit, an application
of nitrogen alone is usually advisable. The most readily available
nitrogen in commercial form is that which is afforded by nitrate of soda
and sulfate of ammonia. In garden practice this may be applied at the
rate of 300 to 400 pounds an acre, although this quantity is more than
is profitable to use in most general field or agricultural conditions.
If it is desired to have stout, stocky plants, with early and profuse
bloom, it is ordinarily advisable to use somewhat sparingly of nitrogen
and to use a little more heavily of potash and phosphoric acid. This is
especially true of the leguminous plants, which have the power of
appropriating atmospheric nitrogen, and among such plants are sweet
peas. Heavy fertilizing of sweet pea land with strong stable manure
tends to make the vines grow too tall and to bear comparatively few
flowers. For dressing of lawns, a Fertilizer which is comparatively rich
in nitrogen is usually to be advised.
An important value of commercial Fertilizers is to use them to start off
the plants quickly in the spring. The food is available and acts at
once. When used for this purpose, the Fertilizer may be applied in the
hill; but when it is desired for the enriching of the land and for the
support of the crop throughout the season, it should be applied to the
entire surface. Always avoid putting the Fertilizer on the crown of the
plant, or directly in contact with it. It is usually better to work the
Fertilizer in lightly. For most garden operations, it is better to apply
in spring.
FEVERFEW. See _Pyrethrum_.
FIG. The Fig is little grown in the East except as a curiosity, but on
the Pacific coast it has gained more or less prominence as an orchard
fruit. The trees are usually planted at distances of about 18 to 25 feet
apart. Figs will stand considerable frost, and seedling or inferior
varieties grow out of doors without protection as far north as Virginia.
Many of the varieties fruit on young sprouts, and, inasmuch as the roots
will stand considerable cold, these varieties will often give a few Figs
in the n
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