Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the Years 1825, 1826, and 1827
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Title: Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the Years 1825, 1826, and 1827
Author: John Franklin
Sir John Richardson
Release date: August 19, 2010 [eBook #33467]
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/33467
Credits: Produced by Carlo Traverso, Adam Styles and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE OF A SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE SHORES OF THE POLAR SEA, IN THE YEARS 1825, 1826, AND 1827 ***
Produced by Carlo Traverso, Adam Styles and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
file was produced from images generously made available
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Transcriber's note:
The original makes extensive use of sidenotes, and several sidenotes
are often associated with a single paragraph, especially within the
final chapter. Because of this, inline sidenotes have been used and
are positioned as close to the relevant passage as was possible during
proofing.
NARRATIVE
OF A SECOND EXPEDITION
TO THE SHORES OF
THE POLAR SEA,
IN THE YEARS
1825, 1826, AND 1827,
BY JOHN FRANKLIN,
CAPT. R.N., F.R.S., &C. AND COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.
INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROGRESS OF A
DETACHMENT TO THE EASTWARD,
BY JOHN RICHARDSON, M.D., F.R.S., F.L.S., &c.
SURGEON AND NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.
PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE
SECRETARY OF STATE FOR COLONIAL AFFAIRS.
Philadelphia:
CAREY, LEA, AND CAREY--CHESNUT STREET.
SOLD IN NEW YORK BY G. AND C. CARVILL--IN BOSTON BY MUNROE
AND FRANCIS.
1828.
* * * * *
W. PILKINGTON & CO. PRINTERS.
* * * * *
TO
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
THE EARL BATHURST, K.G.,
LORD PRESIDENT OF HIS MAJESTY'S COUNCIL,
&c. &c. &c.
THE FOLLOWING
NARRATIVE OF A SECOND JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY ALONG
THE NORTHERN COAST OF AMERICA,
UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER AND UNDER THE AUSPICES
OF HIS LORDSHIP,
IS, BY PERMISSION, INSCRIBED
WITH GREAT RESPECT AND GRATITUDE,
BY
THE AUTHOR.
CONTENTS.
_Page_
Introductory Chapter ix
Official Instructions xix
CHAPTER I.
Join the Boats in the Methye River--Cross the Long Portage--Arrival
at Fort Chipewyan--Departure from thence with the whole party for
Mackenzie River--Arrangements at Fort Norman--Descent to the
Sea--Return to the Winter Quarters at Great Bear Lake 23
CHAPTER II.
Transactions at Fort Franklin, 1825-6 61
CHAPTER III.
Voyage to the Sea--Part from the Eastern Detachment at Point
Separation--Reach the Mouth of the Mackenzie--Interview and Contest
with the Esquimaux--Detained by Ice--Meet friendly Esquimaux--Point
Sabine 87
CHAPTER IV.
Babbage River--Meet Natives at Herschel Island--Their Trade with the
Russians, through the Western Esquimaux--Ascend Mount
Conybeare--Boundary of the British Dominions on this Coast--Delayed
at Icy Reef--Barter Island--Detention at Foggy Island--Return
Reef--Limit of outward Voyage 114
CHAPTER V.
Commence Return to the Mackenzie--Delayed again at Foggy Island--Ice
packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the Coast about
Clarence River--Pass the Channels near Herschel Island in a Gale and
Fog--A sudden Gale--Escape an Attack which the Mountain Indians
meditated--Enter the Mackenzie--Peel River--Arrival at Fort Franklin
141
* * * * *
_Dr. Richardson's Narrative of the Proceedings of the Eastern Detachment
of the Expedition._
CHAPTER I.
Leave Point Separation, and descend the Eastern Channel of the
Mackenzie--Arrive at Sacred Island--Esquimaux Graves--Interview with
the Natives; their thievish disposition--Attempt to gain possession
of the Union--Heavy Gale--Find shelter in Refuge Cove--Low
Coast--Mirage--Stopped by Ice at Point Toker--Reach the Sea 162
CHAPTER II.
Detention by wind--Visited by the Esquimaux--Cross a large Stream of
Fresh Water--Winter Houses on Atkinson Island--Gale of Wind and
Fog--Run into Browell Cove--Double Cape Dalhousie--Liverpool Bay and
Esquimaux Lake--Icy Cliffs--Meet another party of Esquimaux--Cape
Bathurst 180
CHAPTER III.
Double Cape Bathurst--Whales--Bituminous-shale Cliffs on Fire--Enter
Franklin Bay--Heavy Gale--Peninsula of Cape Parry--Perforated
Rock--Detention at Cape Lyon by Wind--Force of an Esquimaux
Arrow--Meet with heavy Ice--Pass Union and Dolphin Straits--Double
Cape Krusenstern, and enter George the Fourth's Coronation
Gulph--Reach the Coppermine River--Remarks--Meteorological Table
193
CHAPTER IV.
Ascend the Coppermine River--Abandon the Boats and
Stores--Commence the Land Journey--Cross the Copper Mountains and
Height of Land--Meet Indians who bring Provisions--Arrive at Great
Bear Lake--Detained by want of a Boat--Send out Hunters--Arrival of
Beaulieu--Collect the Party, and proceed to Fort
Franklin--Conclusion 222
* * * * *
_Captain Franklin's Narrative resumed._
CHAPTER VI.
Brief Notices of the Second Winter at Bear Lake--Traditions of the
Dog-Ribs--Leave Fort Franklin--Winter Journey to Fort
Chipewyan--Remarks on the progress of improvement in the Fur
Countries--Set out in Canoes on the Voyage Homeward--Join Dr.
Richardson at Cumberland House--Mr. Drummond's Narrative--Arrival in
Canada, at New York, and London 238
* * * * *
APPENDIX.
Topographical and Geological Notices, by Dr. Richardson, R.N. 263
* * * * *
An account of the objects of Natural History, collected on our journey
being too voluminous to be inserted in the Appendix, has been reserved
for a separate work which will be published as soon as possible, by Dr.
Richardson and Professor Hooker, under the sanction, and by the
assistance, of His Majesty's Government.
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
His Majesty's Government having, towards the close of the year 1823,
determined upon another attempt to effect a northern passage by sea
between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and Captain Parry, the highly
distinguished Commander of the two preceding Expeditions, having been
again entrusted with its execution, success, as far as ability,
enterprise, and experience could ensure it, appeared likely to be the
result. Yet, as the object was one for which Great Britain had thought
proper to contend for upwards of three centuries, it seemed to me that
it might be desirable to pursue it by more ways than one; I therefore
ventured to lay before His Majesty's Government a plan for an Expedition
overland to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, and thence, by sea, to the
northwestern extremity of America, with the combined object, also, of
surveying the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers.
I was well aware of the sympathy excited in the British public by the
sufferings of those engaged in the former overland Expedition to the
mouth of the Coppermine River, and of the humane repugnance of His
Majesty's Government to expose others to a like fate; but I was enabled
to show satisfactorily that, in the proposed course, similar dangers
were not to be apprehended, while the objects to be attained were
important at once to the naval character, scientific reputation, and
commercial interests of Great Britain; and I received directions from
the Right Honourable Earl Bathurst to make the necessary preparations
for the equipment of the Expedition, to the command of which I had the
honour to be nominated.
My much valued friend, Dr. Richardson, offered his services as
Naturalist and Surgeon, and also volunteered to undertake the survey of
the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, while I should be
occupied in endeavouring to reach Icy Cape.
Lieutenant Bushnan, who had served under Captains Ross and Parry on
their voyages of discovery, was also appointed to accompany me; but,
long before the party was to leave England, I had to lament the
premature death of that excellent young officer, who was eminently
qualified for the situation, by his skill in astronomical observations,
surveying, and drawing. Many naval officers, distinguished for their
talent and ability, were desirous of filling the vacancy; but my friend
and former companion, Lieutenant Back, having returned from the West
Indies, the appointment was offered to him, and accepted with his wonted
zeal.
Mr. E.N. Kendall, Admiralty Mate, and recently assistant Surveyor with
Captain Lyon, was appointed to accompany Dr. Richardson in his voyage to
the eastward, and to do the duty of an Assistant-Surveyor to the
Expedition at large, whilst it continued united. Lastly, Mr. Thomas
Drummond, of Forfar, was appointed Assistant Naturalist, on the
recommendation of Professor Hooker, and other eminent scientific men.
A residence in the northern parts of America, where the party must
necessarily depend for subsistence on the daily supply of fish, or on
the still more precarious success of Indian hunters, involves many
duties which require the superintendence of a person of long experience
in the management of the fisheries, and in the arrangement of the
Canadian voyagers and Indians: we had many opportunities, during the
former voyage, of being acquainted with the qualifications of Mr. Peter
Warren Dease, Chief Trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, for these
services, and I therefore procured the sanction of His Majesty's
Government for his being employed on the Expedition.
As soon as I had authority from Earl Bathurst, I entered into a
correspondence with the Governor and Directors of the Hudson's Bay
Company; and these gentlemen, taking the most lively interest in the
objects of the Expedition, promised their utmost support to it, and
forthwith sent injunctions to their officers in the Fur Countries to
provide the necessary depots of provision at the places which I pointed
out, and to give every other aid in their power. I also wrote to the
different Chief Factors and Chief Traders of the Company, who resided on
the route of the Expedition, explaining its objects, and requesting
their co-operation.
_Pemmican_, the principal article of provision used in travelling, being
made during the winter and spring, the orders for providing the extra
quantity required for the Expedition, though sent out from England by
the earliest conveyance, so as to reach the provision posts in the
summer of 1824, could not be put into effect sooner than the spring of
1825; hence, it was not proper that the main body of the Expedition
should reach the Fur Countries before the latter period. Some stores
were forwarded from England, by way of New York, in March 1824, under
charge of Mr. Robert M'Vicar, Chief Trader, for the purpose of relieving
the Expedition as much as possible from the incumbrance of heavy
baggage, and thus enabling it, by marching quickly, to reach its
intended winter-quarters at Great Bear Lake, as well as to provide for
its more comfortable reception at that place. These stores, with the
addition of other articles obtained in Canada, sufficed to load three
north canoes, manned by eighteen voyagers; and they were delivered by
Mr. M'Vicar, before the winter set in, to Mr. Dease, at the Athabasca
Lake. Mr. Dease was instructed to support his party by fishing at Great
Slave Lake, during the winter of 1824-25; and, early in the spring of
1825, to proceed to Great Bear Lake, and commence the necessary
buildings for the reception of the Expedition. I may here cursorily
remark that, in selecting Great Bear Lake as our winter residence, I was
influenced by the information I had obtained of its being the place
nearest to the mouth of the Mackenzie, known to the traders, where a
sufficient supply of fish could be procured for the support of so large
a party.
Three light boats, which I shall soon more particularly describe, were
also sent out to York Factory, in June 1824, in the annual Hudson's Bay
ship, together with a further supply of stores, two carpenters, and a
party of men, with a view of their reaching Cumberland House, on the
Saskatchawan River, the same season; and starting from thence as soon as
the navigation opened in the following spring, that they might be as far
as possible advanced on their way to Bear Lake before they were
overtaken by the Officers of the Expedition. The latter proceeding by
way of New York and Canada, would have the advantage of an earlier
spring in travelling through the more southern districts; and, further
to expedite their progress, I directed two _large_ canoes (canots de
maitre,) with the necessary equipments and stores, to be deposited at
Penetanguishene, the naval depot of Lake Huron, in the autumn of 1824,
to await our arrival in the following spring; having been informed
that, in ordinary seasons, we should, by commencing our voyage at that
place, arrive in the north-west country ten days earlier than by the
usual way of proceeding up the Utawas River from Montreal.
The return of the Hudson's Bay ship towards the close of the year 1824,
brought me satisfactory intelligence of the progress of the
above-mentioned parties, together with the most pleasing assurances from
the Gentlemen of the Company to whom I had written, of their zeal in our
cause; and here I must express the deep sense I have of the kindness of
the late Honourable William M'Gillivray, of Montreal, whose experience
enabled him to give me many valuable suggestions relating to the
clothing and subsistence of the party, and to the supplies proper for
the Indians.
In connexion with the above sketch of the preparatory steps taken in the
course of the year 1824, it may be proper to give, in this place, a
short account of the general equipments of the Expedition.
And first, with regard to the vessels intended for the navigation of the
Arctic Sea: birch-bark canoes, uniting lightness and facility of repair
with speed, are certainly well adapted for navigating the rivers of
America, but they are much too slight to bear the concussion of waves in
a rough sea, and they are still less fitted, from the tenderness of the
bark, for coming in contact with ice. I therefore requested of the Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty that _three_ boats might be constructed
under my superintendence; and they were immediately ordered and promptly
finished under the directions of the Commissioners of the Navy. To fit
them for the ascent and descent of the many rapids between York Factory
and Mackenzie River; and to render their transport over the numerous
portages more easy, it was necessary to have them as small, and of as
light a construction as possible; and, in fact, as much like a north
canoe as was consistent with the stability and capacity required for
their voyage at sea. They were built of mahogany, with timbers of ash,
both ends exactly alike, and fitted to be steered either with a
sweep-oar or a rudder. The largest, twenty-six feet long, and five feet
four inches broad, was adapted for six rowers, a steersman, and an
officer; it could be borne on the shoulders of six men, and was found,
on trial, to be capable of carrying three tons weight in addition to the
crew. The two others were each twenty-four feet long, four feet ten
inches broad, and were capable of receiving a crew of five men, a
steersman, and an officer, with an additional weight of two and a half
tons. The greatest care was paid to their construction by Mr. Cow,
boat-builder of Woolwich Yard; and, as I could not often be present, my
friend Captain Buchan, R.N., kindly undertook to report their progress;
and I am further indebted to him for many valuable suggestions which
were acted upon.
When the boats were finished, they were tried at Woolwich, in the
presence of many naval and military officers, as to their qualities of
sailing, rowing, and paddling, and found to answer fully the
expectations that had been formed of them. At the same time we tried
another little vessel belonging to the Expedition, named the
Walnut-Shell, the invention and construction of which I owe to my friend
Lieutenant-Colonel Pasley, of the Royal Engineers. Its length was nine
feet, its breadth four feet four inches, and it was framed of
well-seasoned ash, fastened with thongs, covered with Mr. Mackintosh's
prepared canvas, and shaped like one valve of a walnut-shell, whence its
appellation. It weighed only eighty-five pounds, could, when taken to
pieces, be made up in five or six parcels, and was capable of being put
together in less than twenty minutes. So secure was this little vessel,
that several ladies, who had honoured the trial of the boats with their
presence, fearlessly embarked in it, and were paddled across the Thames
in a fresh breeze. It was intended to provide against a similar
detention in crossing rivers to that which proved so fatal to our party
on the former journey; and it was also thought, that this little bark
would be found useful in procuring water-fowl on the small lakes, to
which the boats could not be conveyed.
In the choice of astronomical instruments I was necessarily guided by
their portability. Our stock consisted of two small sextants, two
artificial horizons, two altitude instruments, a repeating circle for
lunar observations, and a small transit telescope for ascertaining the
rates of the chronometers. We had a dipping needle mounted on Meyer's
plan, a plain needle very delicately fitted for observing the diurnal
variation; two of Kater's azimuth compasses, and a pocket compass for
each officer. The atmospherical instruments were two electrometers, two
of Daniel's hygrometers, Leslie's photometer and hygrometer, besides a
good supply of mercurial and spirit thermometers of different sizes. The
magnetic instruments were examined in concert with my friend Captain
Sabine, previous to my departure from London; and the observations that
were obtained for dip and intensity, served as points of comparison for
our future results.
The stores consisted of bedding and clothing, including two suits of
waterproof dresses for each person, prepared by Mr. Mackintosh, of
Glasgow; our guns had the same bore with the fowling-pieces, supplied by
the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indian hunters, that is, twenty-eight
balls to the pound; their locks were tempered to withstand the cold of
the winter; and a broad Indian dagger, which could also be used as a
knife, was fitted to them, like a bayonet. Ammunition of the best
quality was provided by the Ordnance, the powder being secured in small
field or boat magazines. A quantity of wheaten-flour, arrow-root,
macaroni, portable-soup, chocolate, essence of coffee, sugar, and tea,
calculated to last two years, was also supplied, made up into packages
of eighty-five pounds, and covered with three layers of prepared
waterproof canvas, of which material coverings for the cargo of each
boat were also made.
There was likewise an ample stock of tobacco, a small quantity of wine
and spirits, marquees and tents for the men and officers, some books,
writing and drawing paper, a considerable quantity of cartridge-paper,
to be used in preserving specimens of plants; nets, twine, fishing-lines
and hooks, together with many articles to be used at winter-quarters,
for the service of the post, and for the supply of our Indian hunters,
such as cloth, blankets, shirts, coloured belts, chiefs' dresses, combs,
looking-glasses, beads, tapes, gartering, knives, guns and daggers,
hatchets, awls, gun-worms, flints, fire-steels, files, whip and
hand-saws, ice-chisels and trenching-irons, the latter to break open the
beaver lodges.
As the mode of travelling through the Hudson's Bay territories, with all
its difficulties and hazards, is now well known to the public, I think
it better to give in this Introductory Chapter a slight outline of our
route through the United States, Upper Canada, and Southern part of the
Fur Countries, and to commence the detailed Narrative of the proceedings
of the Expedition with its arrival in Methye River, where the officers
joined the boats that had been sent out from England in the preceding
year.
On the 16th of February, 1825, I embarked with Lieutenant Back, Dr.
Richardson, Mr. Kendall, Mr. Drummond, and four marines, at Liverpool,
on board the American packet-ship, Columbia, Captain Lee; and, on
quitting the pier, we were honoured by a salute of three animating
cheers, from a crowd of the principal inhabitants, who had assembled to
witness our departure. The passage across the Atlantic was favourable
and pleasant, and our reception at New York kind in the extreme. We
landed at that city on the 15th of March, and our baggage and stores
were instantly passed through the Custom-House without inspection. Cards
of admission to the Public Scientific Institutions were forwarded to us
the same evening, and during our stay every other mark of attention was
shown by the civil and naval authorities, as well as by private
individuals, indicating the lively interest which they took in our
enterprise.
James Buchanan, Esq., the British Consul, in addition to many other
attentions, kindly undertook to accommodate a journey he had to make to
Upper Canada, so as to accompany us through the State of New York. After
a stay of eight days in the city, for the purpose of obtaining the rates
of the chronometers, and for making some other observations with Meyer's
dipping needle, we embarked under the Consul's guidance, in the
steam-boat Olive Branch, and ascended the Hudson River, to Albany, where
we experienced similar civilities to those we had received at New York.
Every body seemed to desire our success, and a fervent prayer for our
preservation and welfare was offered up by the Reverend Dr. Christie,
the minister of the church that we attended. The Honourable De Witt
Clinton, the Governor of the State, assured me, that had we not been
accompanied by a gentleman so conversant in the different routes and
modes of travelling as Mr. Buchanan, he would have sent his son with us,
or would himself have conducted us to the confines of the State.
From Albany, we travelled through Utica, Rochester, and Geneva, to
Leweston, in coaches, with more or less rapidity, according to the
condition of the roads; and, crossing the river Niagara, entered Canada,
and visited the Falls so justly celebrated as the first in the world for
grandeur. We next crossed Lake Ontario in a sailing boat, and came to
York the capital of Upper Canada, where we were kindly received by the
Lieutenant-Governor Sir Peregrine Maitland, and by Colonel Cockburn and
the Commissioners then employed on an inquiry respecting the value of
the Crown Lands. From York we passed on to Lake Simcoe, in carts and
other conveyances, halting for a night at the hospitable house of Mr.
Robinson of Newmarket. We crossed Lake Simcoe in canoes and boats, and
landed near the upper part of Kempenfeldt Bay, but not without being
obliged to break our way through the ice for a short distance. A journey
of nine miles, performed on foot, brought us to the River Nattawassaga,
which we descended in a boat; and passing through a part of Lake Huron,
arrived at Penetanguishene. At this place, we were hospitably
entertained by Lieutenant, now Captain Douglass, during eight days that
we waited for the arrival of our Canadian voyagers from Montreal.
We left Penetanguishene on St. George's day (23d April) in the two large
canoes, which had been deposited at that place in the preceding autumn,
our party, by the accession of the voyagers, now amounted to
thirty-three; and after a few days detention by ice, and bad weather, we
reached Sault de St. Marie on the 1st of May, being ten days or a
fortnight earlier than the oldest resident remembered a canoe from
Canada to have arrived. From the Sault de St. Marie, we coasted the
northern shore of Lake Superior to Fort William, formerly the great
depot of the N.W. Company, where we arrived on the 10th of May. We now
exchanged our two _canots de maitre_ for four small north canoes, in one
of which, more lightly laden, Dr. Richardson and I embarked, with the
view of proceeding as rapidly as possible to arrange supplies of
provision at the different posts, while Lieutenant Back was left to
bring up the three remaining and more deeply laden canoes.
We proceeded by the route delineated in the maps through Rainy Lake, the
Lake of the Woods, Lake Winipeg, and the Saskatchawan River to
Cumberland House, where we arrived on the 15th of June, and learned that
our boats had left that place on the 2d of the same month. We found also
with deep regret, that Thomas Mathews, the principal carpenter who had
accompanied the boats from England, had had the misfortune to break his
leg the evening before their departure. But, fortunately, an officer of
the Hudson's Bay Company then present, had sufficient skill to set it,
and Dr. Richardson now pronounced that in two months he would be able to
come on in one of the Company's canoes, and join us at Bear Lake, which
he was very desirous of doing. I therefore made arrangements to this
effect, and also concerning supplies for Mr. Drummond the Assistant
Naturalist, who was to be employed, during our stay in the north, in
making collections in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains.
Having remained one night at Cumberland House, we resumed our voyage,
and passing through Pine Island Lake, Beaver Lake, crossing the Frog
Portage, and ascending the English River, with its dilatations, named
Bear Island, Sandfly, Serpent, Primeau, and Isle a la Crosse Lakes, we
came to the post situated on, and named from the latter sheet of water,
at four P.M. on the 25th June. In the course of this voyage, we met the
Gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company proceeding from the interior with
various brigades of canoes, carrying the returns of trade for the year
to York Factory, and I had not only the satisfaction of hearing frequent
news of the progress of our boats, but that the deposits of provisions I
had requested, and the other arrangements I had made, were all
punctually carried into effect. Mr. Spencer, the gentleman in charge at
Isle a la Crosse, informed us, that the boats had gone off a few hours
previous to our arrival, with the addition of a bateau laden with
pemmican, under the charge of Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay
Company.
I waited at this establishment one night to obtain astronomical
observations, and to bespeak an additional quantity of provisions, &c.,
which being satisfactorily done, we resumed our voyage on the 27th, and,
passing through Deep River, Clear and Buffalo Lakes, overtook the boats
in Methye River, at sunrise on the 29th of June.
Having brought this preliminary sketch up to the date at which the
ensuing Narrative of the proceedings of the Expedition commences, I turn
to the pleasing duty of rendering my best thanks to the many gentlemen
who have assisted me in forwarding its progress. To the Right Honourable
Earl Bathurst, I am greatly indebted for the readiness with which he
attended to every suggestion I had to make regarding the equipment of
the Expedition, and to the Right Honourable Wilmot Horton, the Under
Colonial Secretary, for his kindness and promptitude in facilitating all
my views. Nor can I feel less grateful to Lord Viscount Melville, and to
the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty for their patronage and
support, as well as to Sir Byam Martin, the Comptroller, and to the
Commissioners of the Navy and Victualling offices, for the arrangements
depending on their boards. Mr. Pelly, the Governor of the Hudson's Bay
Company, and Mr. Garry, the Deputy-Governor, as well as every Member of
its Committee, claim my most sincere thanks for their unremitting
endeavours to promote the welfare of the Expedition through its whole
progress; and I feel truly obliged to Mr. Simpson, the Governor in the
Fur Countries; to Mr. M'Tavish, Mr. Haldane, Mr. M'Donald, Mr. Leith,
Mr. Stuart, and Messrs. James and George Keith, Chief Factors, who,
acting in the spirit of their instructions, were very assiduous in
collecting provisions and stores for the use of my party, and in
forwarding all our supplies. There were other gentlemen resident in the
more northern parts of the country, to whom I am no less obliged for
advice and assistance; but the brevity requisite in this place
necessarily compels me to refer to the Narrative, where their names,
and the services they rendered, are mentioned.
I cannot, however, close this introductory Chapter, without expressing
the deepest obligation to those kind friends and excellent officers with
whom I had the happiness of being associated, who constantly aided me by
their most cordial co-operation, and whose best efforts were devotedly
applied to every pursuit which could be interesting to science. Nor can
I omit to mention the gratitude I owe to each of the seamen, marines,
British and Canadian voyagers who composed our party at the
winter-quarters, for their steady obedience and truly good conduct,
whether in the days of relaxation during the winter, or in the more
arduous exertions of our summer occupations.
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
_Downing-street, 31st Jan. 1825._
SIR,
His Majesty's Government having decided that an Expedition should be set
forth, for the purpose of exploring the Northern Coast of America,
between the Mouth of Mackenzie's River, and the Strait of Behring; and
confiding in your zeal and experience for the due execution of this
service, I have recommended you as a proper person to be charged with
the same. You are, therefore, to proceed with your party (a list of whom
is annexed) by the Packet from Liverpool to New York, and from thence
make the best of your way to Lake Huron, where the stores necessary for
your journey have already been sent. Embarking in Canoes, you are from
thence to follow the water communication to the western side of the
Great Bear Lake, where you are to establish your winter-quarters; and
having so done, your first care should be to endeavour to open a
friendly communication with the Esquimaux.
Early in the Spring of 1826, you are to proceed down the Mackenzie River
with all the necessary stores and provisions, in order to be prepared to
take advantage of the first opening of the ice on the Polar Sea, so as
to enable you to prosecute your voyage along the coast to Icy Cape,
round which you are to proceed to Kotzebue's Inlet, where you may expect
to find His Majesty's Ship Blossom, which the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty will order to proceed to that rendezvous, in the Summer of
1826. But if, on your arrival at Icy Cape, or the northern point of
Behring's Strait, you should be of opinion that you could, with safety,
return the same season to the established winter-quarters, you are at
liberty to do so, instead of proceeding to join the Blossom. You will,
therefore, without loss of time, settle with Captain Beechey, her
commander, such a plan as may appear to you, both, best adapted for
ensuring your meeting together, and establish a code of signals, or
devise such other means as may tend to give you information, if
possible, previous to your reaching the longitude of Icy Cape.
On your arrival at the mouth of Mackenzie River, you are to despatch Dr.
Richardson with Mr. Kendall and five or six men, in one of the boats, to
examine the intermediate coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine
Rivers; but if you should find that the stores and provisions you have
been able to accumulate are not sufficient for your own and Dr.
Richardson's party, you are, in that case, to direct Dr. Richardson to
employ himself and party on shore, in examining the country contiguous
to the Mackenzie River, the Rocky Mountains, the shores of the Great
Bear Lake, the Copper Mountains, and as far round as he can with safety,
collecting specimens of the animals, plants, and minerals, and also
laying in a stock of provisions sufficient for both parties, if, by any
unforeseen accident, you should find yourself compelled to return
without reaching the Blossom.
If, in proceeding westerly towards Icy Cape, you should make but slow
progress, and find yourself impeded by ice or land jutting out to the
northward farther than is calculated upon, or from accidents to the
boats, or any other unforeseen circumstance, so that it remains doubtful
whether you will be able to reach the neighbourhood of Kotzebue's Inlet
the same season, you are not to consider yourself authorized to risk
yourself and party to the chance of being obliged to winter on the
coast, but commence your return about the 15th or 20th of August to the
established winter-quarters on Bear Lake, unless you should be satisfied
that yourself and party could pass the winter with safety among the
Esquimaux, and that there was afforded a certainty of your reaching
Behring's Strait the following Season, when the Blossom will again
proceed to the appointed rendezvous.
In the event of your reaching Kotzebue's Inlet, the first season,
Captain Beechey will be instructed to convey you and your party in the
Blossom to the Sandwich Islands or Canton, as may seem most advisable to
you, from whence you will be able to take a passage to England in one of
the Company's Ships or Private Traders; and you will leave such
instructions with Dr. Richardson for his guidance, in the event of your
being able to accomplish this point, as you may deem fit and proper for
his return to England.
In the event of your death, or any accident which may prevent your
proceeding, the command of the Expedition must necessarily devolve on
Lieutenant Back, who is to follow these Instructions; but he is not to
alter any arrangement with regard to Dr. Richardson's proceedings which
you may have settled for him to pursue, the principal object of Dr.
Richardson's accompanying you, being that of completing, as far as can
be done, our knowledge of the Natural History of North America.
Lieutenant Back will, therefore, in the event above-mentioned, act in
concert with Dr. Richardson, but not direct him and his party from any
plan of operations which he and you may previously have settled.
You will take care to inform me from time to time, as opportunities may
occur, of your proceedings, and the progress made in the Expedition,
with the direction of which you are hereby entrusted.
I have the honour to be,
Sir,
Your most obedient Servant,
BATHURST.
_To Captain Franklin, R.N.,
&c. &c. &c._
SECOND JOURNEY TO THE SHORES OF THE POLAR SEA.
CHAPTER I.
Join the boats in the Methye River--Cross the Long Portage--Arrival to
Fort Chipewyan--Departure from thence with the whole party for Mackenzie
River--Arrangements at Fort Norman--Descent to the Sea--Return to the
Winter Quarters at Great Bear Lake.
The boats of the Expedition had advanced from Hudson's Bay into the
interior, twelve hundred miles, before they were joined by the officers;
whilst the latter, from taking a more circuitous route by New York and
Canada, as shown in the introductory chapter, travelled two thousand and
eight hundred miles, to reach the same point.
[Sidenote: June 29.] This junction took place early in the morning of
the 29th of June, 1825, in the Methye River, latitude 56 degrees 10
minutes N., longitude 108 degrees 55 minutes W., which is almost at the
head of the waters that flow from the north into Hudson's Bay.
In no part of the journey was the presence of the officers more
requisite to animate and encourage the crews, because the river itself,
beside being obstructed by three impassable rapids, is usually so
shallow, through its whole course of forty miles, as scarcely to admit
of a flat-bottomed bateau floating with half its cargo, much less our
boats, which drew, when loaded, from eighteen to twenty inches. This
river and its impediments being surmounted, the Methye Portage, ten
miles and three quarters long, was at no great distance, which is always
held up to the inexperienced voyager as the most laborious part of the
journey. But whatever apprehensions the men might have entertained on
this subject, seemed to vanish on our landing amongst them; and Dr.
Richardson and myself were received by all with cheerful, delighted
countenances, and by none more warmly than by our excellent friend and
former interpreter Augustus the Esquimaux, and Ooligbuck, whom he had
brought from Churchill, as his companion. A breakfast was quickly
prepared by Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company, under whose
charge the boats had been, since their departure from Cumberland House;
and I then inspected the boats and stores, which I was rejoiced to find
were in good order. We had brought letters from the relatives of several
of the party, and another hour was allowed to read them.
At ten A.M. we began to ascend the stream, but very soon found that it
was necessary for the whole party to walk in the water, and drag the
boats through the mud. Nor could we long advance even by this mode, but
were compelled either to carry some of the cargo along the shore, where
walking was at all practicable, or else to take half the lading in a
boat to a part where the river was deeper, and then return for the
remainder. From thus travelling the distance twice over, it was the
fifth day before we reached the lake from whence its waters flow.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 30.] On the evening of the 30th of June, we
witnessed one of those violent but momentary gusts of wind which occur
not unfrequently in the spring and autumn, and which prove so
destructive to the forests in this country. It was preceded by calm and
very sultry weather, with loud thunder and vivid lightning. In an
instant the tents were overthrown, and even very large trees were bent
by its force into a horizontal position; indeed, for a few seconds, the
scene around us appeared one of almost entire devastation. When the
violence of the squall was past, we had great reason to be pleased at
its occurrence, for the strong steady breeze and heavy rain that
succeeded, carried away the myriads of musquitoes by which we had been
tormented the whole day.
[Sidenote: Monday, 4.] Having crossed the Methye Lake, we arrived at the
portage of that name. Here it was necessary to make an equal division of
the cargoes, and to devise means for the conveyance of the boats. The
packages amounted to one hundred and sixteen, weighing from seventy to
ninety pounds each, exclusive of the three boats and the men's personal
luggage; and there were nineteen men of the boats' crews, two
Canadians, and two boys, to carry these burdens. At first the packages
were equally distributed among this party; but several of the men, who
had been reduced by their previous exertions, became lame: among these
were the Esquimaux, and we were, therefore, compelled to make other
arrangements, and ultimately to employ the crew of my canoe, though the
great fatigue they had suffered in our rapid journey from
Penetanguishene, made me desirous of sparing them for the present.
The boats were the heaviest and most difficult articles to transport.
One of the small boats was carried on the shoulders of eight men, of
whom Mr. Fraser undertook to be one, as an example to the rest. Another
of the same size was dragged by another eight men; and the largest was
conveyed on a truck made for the purpose on the spot, to which service
the lame were attached.
Each day's journey, and also the intermediate stages, were determined by
the places where water could be procured, and our mode of travelling was
as follows:--Rising at three A.M., the men carried a part of their
burden to the first stage, and continued to go backwards and forwards
till the whole was deposited. They then slept for a few hours, and in
the cool of the evening the boats were brought up. [Sidenote: Monday,
11th.] By these means every thing was ready at the western end of the
portage early on Monday, the 11th of July. The slight injuries which the
boats had received, principally from exposure to the sun, were soon
repaired; they were put into the water to tighten, and the whole party
were allowed to rest.
With reference to the Methye Portage I may remark, that, except the
steep hill at its western extremity, the road is good and tolerably
level, and it appeared to us that much fatigue and suffering might have
been spared by using trucks. Accordingly two were made by our carpenters
at Fort Chipewyan, in 1827, for the return of the Expedition, and they
answered extremely well. I mention this circumstance, in the hope that
some such expedient will be adopted by the Traders for the relief of
their voyagers, who have twice in every year to pass over this ridge of
hills.
[Sidenote: Tuesday 12th.] Being now in a fair way to reach the Athabasca
Lake, Dr. Richardson and I embarked, on the 12th, in the canoe, to
proceed to Fort Chipewyan, for the purpose of preparing the gentleman in
charge for the reception of the party.
By noon we got over the four Portages on Clear-Water river, and
descended, with some trouble, the series of rapids that follow them.
Once below these, the passage to the lake is generally considered as
free from fatigue; but we did not find it so, for, owing to the
shallowness of the water, the men had to get out and drag the canoe in
several places. The difference between the depth of water now and in
other years at the same period, was attributed to the snow having fallen
in the preceding autumn before the frost was sufficiently intense to
harden the ground, and, consequently, much of the moisture had
penetrated the earth, which, under other circumstances, would have
remained in a frozen state, for the supply of the river at the spring
thaw.
In the course of the night we were under much alarm for one of our men,
who having incautiously lain down to sleep under a wet sail, while the
rain was pouring heavily, was seized with a cramp in the stomach, and
violent pain in the head. Having been brought into the tent and covered
with blankets, he became better before morning, but not sufficiently
strong to allow of our setting off at the usual hour. [Sidenote:
Wednesday, 13th.] We entered the Elk, or Athabasca River, at three P.M.,
on the 13th, and were carried swiftly down by its current to the
Hudson's Bay Company's post named Berens House, where we stayed the
night. Here we received a supply of dried meat. [Sidenote: Friday,
15th.] We safely arrived in the Athabasca Lake on the 15th, by the
channel of the "Riviere des Eaux remuees;" but in the subsequent
traverse between Bustard Island and Fort Chipewyan the canoe was in
danger of foundering in a sudden gale. Two large waves broke with full
force into it, and obliged us to bear away and steer for the nearest
shore; but the men having soon rested, and being now sheltered by
islands, we pushed on to Fort Chipewyan. Our arrival there caused great
surprise to its inmates, when they learned that we had come from England
to that advanced post so early in the season, being only two days later
than the time at which Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood had arrived in 1819,
though they passed the winter at Cumberland House.
The stores at Fort Chipewyan being well furnished with warm clothing,
and other articles, which we required for the use of the men and Indians
at winter-quarters, I availed myself of the permission which the chief
factor of this department, Mr. James Keith, had given me to complete our
stock of cloth, blankets, nets, and twine, to a quantity sufficient for
two years' consumption. A supply of twine was indispensable, because,
by a letter from Mr. Dease, I had learned that the meshes of the nets
made in England, of the size generally required for fishing throughout
this country, were too large for the smaller fish that frequent that
part of Bear Lake where our house was to be constructed. Mr. Campbell,
the clerk in charge, cheerfully gave me the benefit of his experience in
making out lists of such things as we were likely to want, and in
assorting and packing them.
[Sidenote: Monday, 18th.] The boats rejoined on the 18th, and the crews
were allowed the following day to recruit themselves. A party of Indians
came very opportunely with fresh meat, which is always an agreeable
change to the voyager, who has generally to live on dried provision. The
Indians, as well as the women and children of the fort, spent the
greater part of the day by the side of our boats, admiring their whole
equipment, but more especially the gay figures painted on them. Many of
these were different from any animals or representations they had seen,
and, judging from the bursts of laughter, some curious remarks were made
on them.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 20th.] It being necessary that I should await the
arrival of Lieutenant Back's canoes, Dr. Richardson undertook to proceed
with the boats towards Slave Lake. Their lading was now increased by the
bales already mentioned, as well as by several bags of pemmican, which
Mr. Keith had stored up for our use. The crews, however, were reduced by
the discharge of three Englishmen, at their own desire, who thought
themselves unequal to the fatigue of the service.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 23d.] I had the happiness, on the 23rd, of
welcoming my friends, Lieutenant Back and Mr. Kendall, on their arrival
with three canoes. Their journey from Fort William had been expeditious,
notwithstanding the detention of eighteen days, by bad weather, on the
road. A serious misfortune had happened at the very outset of the
journey, through the unskilfulness of one of the bowmen, in allowing his
canoe to turn round and get before the current, while attempting to
ascend the Barrier Rapid, by which it was driven against a stone with
such force, as to be overset and broken. The stores were fortunately
saved, though completely drenched; but many of the delicate
atmospherical instruments were broken. Mr. Kendall was despatched to
Fort William for another canoe while the things were drying.
On a subsequent occasion, in the Winipeg River, the same man placed his
canoe in such a situation, as to endanger its being hurried down a steep
fall, and had it not been for the coolness of a man, named Lavalle, who
jumped into the water and held the canoe, while the rest of the crew
arranged themselves so as to drag it into a place of safety, every life
must have been sacrificed. The success, indeed the safety of this kind
of river navigation, among currents and rapids, depends on the skill of
the bowman; and after these proofs of his incapacity, Lieutenant Back
very properly engaged a substitute at the first fort to which he came.
At another time, in the Sturgeon-weir River, the canoe in which Mr.
Kendall was embarked, having been accidentally driven before the
current, she was only saved from destruction by his own powerful
exertion and activity.
These short details will convey an idea of the anxiety and trouble these
officers experienced in their journey to Chipewyan.
The party and the stores having now passed the more difficult part of
the road, I discharged as many of the Canadians as could be spared, and
furnished them with a canoe to take them home. Some went to Montreal;
and they were the first persons who had ever gone from that place to
Chipewyan, and returned in the same season.
[Sidenote: Monday, 25th.] The greater part of the 25th was employed in
obtaining astronomical observations, the results of which, we were
delighted to find, placed Fort Chipewyan within a few seconds of
longitude of the position in which it had been laid down on the former
Expedition. Our present azimuth compasses showed an increase in
variation, since 1820, of 2 degrees 16 minutes E. The dip was observed
81 degrees 26 minutes 47 seconds.
Fort Chipewyan was this summer visited, for the first time, by a large
flight of swallows, resembling the house-martins of England. They came
in a body on the 25th of June, and immediately began to construct their
earthy nests under the ledge of the south-front of the house. Some barn
or forked-tail swallows also arrived on the 15th of June, and took
possession of the store-houses and garrets, as they had in former years
done. Some of the young of the last-mentioned birds were sporting on the
tops of the houses as early as the 17th of July.
At sunset we embarked in four canoes, one having been procured here. The
descent to Slave Lake occupied four days, and was unattended with any
circumstance deserving mention, except that two of the canoes were
broken in consequence of the guide mistaking the proper channel in a
rapid; fortunately, these bark vessels are soon repaired, and we had
only to regret the delay the accident occasioned.
We halted at the Salt River to take in salt, as we found, by a note left
here, Dr. Richardson had done. The geese were moulting at this time, and
unable to fly; they afforded us much sport in their chase, and an
excellent supper every night.
A body of Indians were waiting near the entrance of the lake to welcome
our arrival; they were so numerous, that we were forced to omit our
general custom of giving a small present to each native, and thus
incurred the charge of stinginess, which the loud vociferations they
raised on our setting sail, were probably meant to convey.
[Sidenote: Friday, 29th.] At six, on the evening of the 29th, we reached
Fort Resolution, the only establishment now at Slave Lake, and we felt
happy in being once more under the roof of our hospitable friend, Mr.
Robert M'Vicar, to whom I am much indebted for the excellent order in
which he had brought up our supplies from Canada in the preceding year.
Dr. Richardson, after a halt of two days, had gone forward with the
boats.
All the portages on the road to Bear Lake being now passed, the
Canadians made a request, that we would allow them to commemorate the
event by a dance. It met with a ready compliance; and though they had
been paddling for thirty-six out of the thirty-nine preceding hours,
they kept up their favourite amusement until daylight, to the music of
bagpipes, relieved occasionally by the Jews' harp.
We rejoiced to find at this post our worthy old Copper-Indian friends,
Keskarrah and Humpy, the brother of Akaitcho, who had been waiting two
months for the express purpose of seeing us. These excellent men showed
that their gratification equalled ours, by repeatedly seizing our hands
and pressing them against their hearts, and exclaiming, "How much we
regret that we cannot tell what we feel for you here!" Akaitcho had left
the fort about two months on a hunting excursion, hoping to return, with
plenty of provision for our use, by the middle of August, which was as
early as he thought we should arrive. Keskarrah confirmed the melancholy
report we had heard in the more southern districts, that most of the
hunters who had been in our service at Fort Enterprise, had been
treacherously murdered, with many others of the tribe, by the Dog-Ribs,
with which nation we also learned the Copper-Indians had been at war,
since the year of our departure from them, till the last spring. The
peace had been effected through the mediation of Messrs. Dease and
M'Vicar, and we were gratified to find that Akaitcho and his tribe had
been principally induced to make this reconciliation, by a desire that
no impediment might be placed in the way of our present expedition. "We
have too much esteem," said Akaitcho, "for our father, and for the
service in which he is about to be again engaged, to impede its success
by our wars, and, therefore, they shall cease;" and on being asked by
Mr. Dease whether he and some of his young men would go to hunt for the
party at our winter quarters, he replied, "Our hearts will be with them,
but we will not go to those parts where the bones of our murdered
brethren lie, for fear our bad passions should be aroused at the sight
of their graves, and that we should be tempted to renew the war by the
recollection of the manner of their death. Let the Dog-Ribs who live in
the neighbourhood of Bear Lake furnish them with meat, though they are
our enemies." Such sentiments would do honour to any state of
civilization, and show that the most refined feelings may animate the
most untutored people. Happily we were now so circumstanced as to be
able to reward the friendship of these good men by allotting from our
stores a liberal present to the principal persons. On the delivery of
the articles to Keskarrah and Humpy, I desired them to communicate to
Akaitcho, and the whole tribe, the necessity of their strictly adhering
to the terms of peace, and assured them that I should not fail to urge
the same obligations on the Dog-Ribs. A silver royal medal, such as is
given to the Indian chiefs in Upper Canada, was likewise left with Mr.
M'Vicar, to be presented to Akaitcho, as a further mark of our regard
for his former services and present good wishes.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 31st.] The party was detained at Fort Resolution
until this morning by a strong south-west gale; and even when we
embarked, the wind and waves were still high, but time was too precious
to allow of our waiting when there was a prospect of making any advance.
As our future course inclined to the westward, we now quitted the track
of the former journey to Fort Enterprise, along which we had been
travelling from Lake Winipeg. We first steered for the Buffalo River,
and then along the south shore of Slave Lake, obtained the latitude 61
degrees 1 minute N. at noon, and afterwards the longitude 114 degrees
18-1/2 minutes W. at the Isle of the Dead. The islands and shores of
this part of the lake are composed of horizontal beds of limestone,
containing pitch and shells.
A small party of Chipewyan Indians, with their principal chief, joined
us at the encampment, from whom we learned that they had supplied Dr.
Richardson with dried meat the preceding noon, at Hay River. The Chief
was very importunate for rum, but I steadily adhered to the
determination I had formed this time, on my entering the Fur Country, of
not giving spirits to any Indian. A share of our supper and tea, and
some tobacco, were offered to him, and accepted, though with a bad
grace. The Fur Company ceased the following season to bring any rum to
this quarter, and I learned that this man was one of the few natives who
were highly displeased at this judicious change.
[Sidenote: Monday, 1st.] We coasted this day along the low shore of the
lake, steering from point to point to avoid the sinuosities of several
deep bays, and passed the mouth of the Sandy and Hay Rivers, whose
positions we settled by astronomical observations.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 2nd.] On the 2nd we came to the narrow part between
the Big Island of Mackenzie, and the main shore, and perceived that a
gentle current was setting towards the Mackenzie river. The water in
this strait is very shallow, and also in many places near the south
shore, though we know, from trial, on the former Expedition, that the
depth of the east end of the lake, at a distance from the land, exceeds
sixty and seventy fathoms. The beach, both of the north and south shores
of the strait, is strewed with drift timber. In clear weather the north
shore is visible from the point of the south shore nearest Big Island.
Below this _detroit_ the shores recede so as to form a small shallow
lake, about twenty-four miles long, by from four to twelve miles broad,
near the north-west end of which we encamped, in latitude 61 degrees 15
minutes N., longitude 117 degrees 6 minutes W. This spot may be
considered as the commencement of Mackenzie River. The ground is very
swampy, and nourishes willows only; but inland, at a short distance from
the beach, grow plenty of the spruce-fir, poplar, aspen, and birch
trees; and among the underwood, numerous shrubs and berry-bearing
plants.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 3rd.] On the 3rd we travelled to another
contraction of the river about one mile broad, through which the current
sets between high banks with such force as to form strong eddies. There
are likewise in this part many sandy islands, and through the channels
between them the current rushed with no less rapidity than in that we
descended. For distinction's sake, these islands have been named the
"Isles of the Rapid:" below them occurs another expansion, which is
called by the voyagers "The Little Lake;" and Sandy Point at its
north-west end, is considered by them as the commencement of the
Mackenzie River.
When abreast of this point, a favouring breeze enabled us to use the
sail as well as the paddles, and with the assistance of the current
great progress was made. We had occasional glimpses of the Horn and
Rein-Deer Mountains as we passed along; but, until we were some way
below the rapids, our view was very limited, owing to the woods being on
fire in almost every direction. This I should have mentioned to have
been the case in many parts between Isle a la Crosse and the Mackenzie.
The cause of these extensive conflagrations I could not learn; some
attributed them to voluntary acts of the Indians, and others to their
negligence in leaving their fires burning.
We put up at sunset on a beach of gravel under a well-wooded bank of
moderate height, and the party regaled themselves with raspberries and
other indigenous fruits.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 4th.] At half past two A.M., on the 4th, the canoes
were again on the water, and being driven by sail and current, made good
way. We stopped at the Trout River, which flows in from the southward,
and ascertained its longitude 119 degrees 47 minutes W. The breadth of
the Mackenzie is here about two miles, and its banks are composed of a
muddy clay: the stones on the beach mostly limestone, with some boulders
of primitive rocks. The trees are of the kinds we had seen north of the
Athabasca Lake: they are here of a smaller size. Five miles below this
part, the Mackenzie is divided into several channels by islands, and the
current runs with increased swiftness, and strong eddies.
The latitude 61 degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds N. was obtained at noon;
it was the same as on the preceding day; so that our course, in the
interval, had been due west.
The banks now were higher, and for the next forty miles the breadth of
the stream did not exceed one mile, nor was less than half a mile; its
course inclined more to the north. We passed the site of the first
establishment that the North-West Company had made in these parts, which
was erected by Mr. Livingstone, one of the partners, who, with the whole
of the crew of his canoe, except one individual, were massacred by the
Esquimaux on the first attempt to open a trade with them.
At three P.M. a picturesque view opened upon us of a distant range of
mountains running east and west, and nearly at right angles to the
course of the river. The current being considerably increased by the
contribution of some streams near this place, we descended very swiftly.
Six miles below Pine Island, there is a strong but not a dangerous
rapid; and about fifteen miles farther is Fort Simpson, the principal
depot of the Hudson Bay Company for this department, at which we arrived
by eight P.M., and thus escaped a very wet, comfortless night. Dr.
Richardson had departed for Fort Norman the preceding day.
This establishment, three hundred and thirty-eight miles from Fort
Resolution on Slave Lake, is situated at the confluence of the River of
the Mountains and the Mackenzie. The former is the channel of
communication with a fur post not far distant from the Rocky Mountain
Range, from whence the residents here procure much of their provision,
including a tolerable supply of potatoes, which have been recently
introduced from the southern parts. Mr. Smith, the chief factor of the
district, was fortunately at Fort Simpson, so that I had the opportunity
of arranging with him as to supplies of provision or stores that my
party might require during its residence at Bear Lake. He cheerfully
acceded to every suggestion that was made, and likewise furnished me
with a letter of instruction to the same effect, addressed to the
gentleman in charge of the lower posts.
I learned from Mr. Smith that, as yet, a few only of the Indians who
live nearest the mouth of the river, and none of the Esquimaux, had been
apprized of our intended visit, the traders at the lower posts having
considered that it would be better to defer this communication until we
should arrive in the river, for fear of disappointing these people,
which might have been attended with unpleasant results.
There were two Canadians here belonging to the Expedition, whom Mr.
Dease had sent to serve as guides to Bear Lake. By letters which they
brought, I was informed that Indian hunters were engaged, and the
necessary buildings in course of preparation for our reception. As Fort
Simpson had been short of ammunition during the summer from some
accidental cause, I was glad to find that Mr. Dease had been enabled to
lend from our stores a barrel of powder, and a bag of balls and I now
increased the loan, so as to meet the probable demands of the Indians,
until the Company's supplies should arrive, when they would return to
Fort Norman the whole of what we had lent. Cloudy weather limited our
astronomical observations at this place to the dip of the needle, which
was observed 81 degrees 54 minutes.
[Sidenote: Friday, 5th.] We quitted the fort on the 5th, soon after noon,
whence the river preserving nearly a straight course for fifteen miles,
gradually extends itself to nearly two miles in breadth; in its channel
there are three islands. At two P.M. we obtained the first glimpse of
the Rocky Mountains, and kept them in view until we encamped, which was
early, as the canoes required gumming. The outline of the mountains was
very peaked, and at their easternmost part was a cone-shaped hill,
higher than the rest, whose summit was veiled by clouds. The general
appearance of the range somewhat reminded me of the east end of Jamaica.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 6th.] The morning of the 6th was beautifully fine:
we embarked at 2h 30m A.M., and by seven came within six or seven miles
of the mountain range, where the river suddenly changes its course from
W.b.N. to north, in longitude 123 degrees 31 minutes W.
A distinct stratification was perceptible on the face of the nearest
mountain: on one side of a nearly perpendicular ravine the strata dip to
the southward at an angle of 25 degrees; whilst on the other they are
nearly horizontal. There was a large accumulation of debris at its base:
every part of the hill was destitute of vegetation. Its altitude was
guessed at one thousand two hundred feet.
At noon, in latitude 62 degrees 49 minutes N., we saw a chain of
mountains, on the eastern side of the river, similar in their outline
and general character to those hitherto seen only on the opposite bank.
Between these ranges the river flowed in a channel two miles broad; but
as we advanced we receded from those on the western side, their
direction being W.N.W. In the brilliancy of the sunshine, the surfaces
of some of the eastern hills, which were entirely bare, appeared white
as marble, and for some time we fancied them to be covered with snow. By
four P.M. we reached the Rocky Island mentioned by Mackenzie, where,
from the river being contracted, the current flowed with great rapidity,
and soon brought us opposite to the remarkable hill close by the river
side, which that persevering traveller ascended in July, 1789. His
account renders a description of it unnecessary. It is composed of
limestone, and is about four hundred feet high.
We continued a N.b.W. course for eight miles, and encamped at sunset,
having travelled this day one hundred and twenty miles. A small supply
of fresh deer's meat was obtained from some Dog-Rib Indians. Their
canoes were made of the bark of the pine-tree, sewn at the ends and top
with the fibrous parts of the root of that tree, leaving only a space
sufficient for the legs of the sitter.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 7th.] We pursued our course at dawn of day, and at
the end of a few miles came to a more winding part of the river, where
the stream is interrupted by numerous sand banks and shoals which we had
some trouble to get round. Mr. Kendall, in his Journal, remarks of this
part, "That bubbles of air continually rose to the surface with a
hissing noise resembling the effervescence produced by pouring water on
quick lime."
We arrived at Fort Norman at ten, A.M., distant two hundred and
thirty-six miles from Fort Simpson, and five hundred and seventy-four
from Fort Resolution.
Being now only four days' journey from Bear Lake, and there remaining
yet five or six weeks of open season, I resolved on following up a plan
of a voyage to the sea, which I had cherished ever since leaving
England, without imparting it to my companions, until our departure from
Fort Chipewyan, because I was apprehensive that some unforeseen accident
might occur in the course of the very intricate and dangerous river
navigation between Fort William and the Athabasca Lake, which might
delay our arrival here to too late a period of the year. It was
arranged, _first_, that I should go down to the sea, accompanied by Mr.
Kendall, and collect whatever information could be obtained, either from
actual observation, or from the intelligence of the Loucheux Indians, or
the Esquimaux, respecting the general state of the ice in the summer and
autumn; the direction of the coast, east and west of the Mackenzie; and
whether we might calculate upon any supply of provision. _Secondly_, Dr.
Richardson, on his own suggestion was to proceed in a boat along the
northern shore of Bear Lake, to the part where it approached nearest to
the Coppermine River, and there fix upon a spot to which he might bring
the party the following year, on its return from the mouth of that
river. And, _thirdly_, that these undertakings might not interfere with
the important operations necessary for the comfortable residence and
subsistence of the Expedition during the following winter, Lieutenant
Back was to superintend them during my absence, with the assistance of
Mr. Dease, chief trader of the Hudson Bay Company, whose suggestions,
relative to the proper distribution of the Indian hunters, and the
station of the fishermen, he was to follow. Accordingly, Dr. Richardson,
on his quitting this place two days previous to our arrival, had left
the largest of the boats, the Lion, for my use and a well-selected crew
of six Englishmen, and Augustus the Esquimaux.
Lieutenant Back was directed to take the canoes forward to Bear Lake,
laden with such supplies as would be required for the winter, and was
further instructed to furnish Dr. Richardson with one of the boats, and
a good crew. The services of the Canadians who had brought the canoes
from Penetanguishene, being no longer required, I desired Lieutenant
Back to discharge them, and also all the voyagers of Mr. Dease's party
who could be spared. They were sent in canoes to Slave Lake, where I had
arranged with Mr. M'Vicar for their being supplied with the means of
gaining subsistence by fishing, during the winter; and the following
spring, they were to be forwarded to Canada, at the expense of
Government, according to the terms of their agreement.
Fort Norman being situated in our way to the sea, the pemmican and other
stores, intended for the voyage along the coast next season, were
deposited here, by permission of Mr. Smith, under the care of Mr.
Brisbois, the clerk in charge. Our observations place this establishment
in latitude 64 degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds N., and longitude 124
degrees 53 minutes 22 seconds W.
[Sidenote: Monday, 8th.] The above matters being satisfactorily settled,
and a few articles packed up as presents to the Indians and Esquimaux,
Mr. Kendall and I embarked on the 8th, at noon, taking, in addition to
our crew, a voyager, who was reported to be able to guide us through the
proper channels to Fort Good Hope, of which, however, we found him
altogether ignorant. We were accompanied by Lieutenant Back, with the
three canoes, each manned by five men. The crews of the canoes imagining
they could easily pass our English boat, were much surprised, on putting
it to the proof, to find the boat take and maintain the lead, both under
sail and with oars.
A few miles above the Bear Lake River, and near its mouth, the banks of
the Mackenzie contain much wood coal, which was on fire at the time we
passed, as it had been observed to be by Mackenzie in his voyage to the
sea. Its smell was very disagreeable. On a subsequent trial of this coal
at our winter quarters, we found that it emitted little heat, and was
unfit for the blacksmith's use. The banks likewise contain layers of a
kind of unctuous mud, similar, perhaps, to that found on the borders of
the Orinoco, which the Indians, in this neighbourhood, use occasionally
as food during seasons of famine, and even, at other times, chew as an
amusement. It has a milky taste, and the flavour is not disagreeable. We
used it for whitening the walls of our dwellings; for which purpose it
is well adapted.
The entrance of the Bear Lake River is distinguished by a very
remarkable mountain, whose summit displays a variety of insulated peaks,
crowded in the most irregular manner. It is composed of limestone; and
from the lower cliffs, which front the river, a dark, bituminous liquid
oozes and discolours the rock. There are likewise two streams of
sulphureous water that flow from its base into the Mackenzie. At this
place we parted from our friend, Lieutenant Back, who entered the clear
and beautiful stream that flows from Bear Lake, of whose pure waters we
had also the benefit, till they were overpowered by the muddy current of
the Mackenzie. The day was fine, the wind fair, the current swift, and
every circumstance concurred to put the party in high glee. There was
little in the scenery to attract our attention, now that we had become
familiar with the general appearance of the Mackenzie, and we passed
island after island, of the same alluvial mud, without further regard
than the delineation of them in the survey book. At length, however, a
most picturesque view of the Rocky Mountain range opened before us, and
excited general admiration, and we had also some portions of the
mountain range on the eastern side of the river, in view for the
remainder of the day's journey. The outline of these mountains is very
irregular, the highest parts being peaked hills. The general direction
of the ranges is between N.W. and N.W.b.W.
Being unwilling to lose the advantage of the wind, we only put ashore to
sup, and after two hours' delay, resumed our voyage under easy sail.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 9th.] When the sun rose, the oars were used; and
then, as the current set at the rate of two miles and a half per hour,
the boat travelled swiftly down the stream. The eastern bank of the
river, along which we were passing, is about one hundred and twenty feet
high, almost perpendicular, and is composed of thin strata of bituminous
shale. Amongst the fragments of shale which strewed the beach, we found
many pieces of brown wood-coal. A reach, eighteen miles in length,
followed. It is bounded on both sides by high cliffs of sand-stone. We
landed to breakfast, and to obtain the longitude, 128 degrees 23 minutes
W.
From the reach here described, are seen two hills, named by me the East
and West Mountains of the rapid, which seem to present a barrier to the
further progress of the stream; but the river, bending suddenly between
them to the north, dilates into a kind of basin, and, by so doing, opens
by far the most interesting view of the Rocky Mountains which the
Mackenzie affords. The river, too, makes its nearest approach to those
mountains at this spot, and probably, the easiest communication with
them would be by ascending a small stream that flows in here on the
western side. Here too are found the first rapids mentioned by
Mackenzie, which continue in succession for two miles, when the water is
low. The centre of the basin is occupied by low sandy islands; and the
channel on the western side is the deepest. The beauty of this scene
furnished employment for the able pencil of Lieutenant Back, on a
subsequent occasion. As the Mackenzie, in its further descent, continues
to hold a northerly course, and the range of mountains runs N.W.b.N., we
did not obtain any other view of them till we approached the sea.
At one P.M. we saw a party of Indians encamped on the beach of a small
stream, whom we invited to come off to us. They hesitated at first,
being doubtful who we were, from our boat being different in shape from
any they had seen, and carrying two sails; but after some time they
launched their canoes, and brought us a good supply of fresh deer's
meat. The sight of our boats seemed to delight them as much as the
ammunition and tobacco which they received. These were Hare Indians, the
tribe that follows next to the Dog-Ribs, in the line of country below
Bear Lake; and, like them, they speak a dialect of the Chipewyan
language. We admired the shape and appearance of their canoes, which
were larger than those used by the Chipewyans, and had the fore part
covered with bark, to fit them for the navigation of this broad river,
where the waves are often high.
The river varied from two to four miles in breadth, and its course was
interrupted by several small islands and sand-banks. At six P.M. we came
to an open space, bounded by lofty walls of sandstone. In this expansion
are found the second rapids of Mackenzie: at the first appearance they
seem dangerous, but are not so. The river becomes again contracted, and
rushes with great force for the space of seven miles through a kind of
defile, varying in breadth from four hundred to eight hundred yards,
which has been appropriately named "The Ramparts," by the traders. The
walls of this defile are from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet high,
and are composed of limestone, containing numerous shells: for a part of
the way the stone is very white, and in the rest it is blue. Several
streams of water were running over the summits of the cliffs, which had
worn the stone in some places, into a turreted shape; while the heaps,
overthrown by its action at their base, resemble mounds for defence. To
these appearances were occasionally added cavernous openings, and other
hollow parts, not unlike the arched windows or gateways of a castellated
building. I could not help fancying what delight a visit to this spot
would afford to any person of a romantic turn, especially at the time we
first saw it, when the broad shadows of a declining sun gave effect to
the picture. This is a place of resort for the Hare Indians to fish, and
we were visited by a large party of men and women of that tribe, who
brought fish, berries, and meat. They were all neatly clothed in new
leathern dresses, highly ornamented with beads and porcupine quills. The
paintings of animals on the sides of our boats were very attractive to
them; they scanned every figure over and over, bursting into laughter
whenever they recognised any of the animals. We encamped near a small
river below the ramparts, one hundred and ninety-three miles from Fort
Norman. Two young Indians followed us in their canoes, bringing some
musk-rat skins, and fish for sale. We purchased the fish, but declined
taking the furs. They were so pleased with their reception, that they
passed the night by our fire.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 10th.] At daylight we again embarked, and
descended the river pleasantly and swiftly under sail, having the
benefit of a strong current, especially where it was narrowed by islands
or sand-banks. The sides of the river are generally high cliffs of
limestone or sandstone, and its breadth from two to three miles. The
intervals between these cliffs are mostly occupied by hills of sand,
from eighty to one hundred feet high, whose intermediate valleys are
well wooded; and whenever these occur, the channel of the river is much
interrupted by banks, on which, as well as on the beach, there are vast
collections of drift timber, piled, in some places, twenty feet high, by
the spring floods.
At eleven P.M. we arrived at Fort Good Hope, the lowest of the
Company's establishments; it is distant from Fort Norman three hundred
and twelve miles, and is in latitude 67 degrees 28 minutes 21 seconds
N., and longitude 130 degrees 51 minutes 38 seconds W.: the variation of
the compass being 47 degrees 28 minutes 41 seconds E. Our arrival at
this period of the year, at least two months earlier than that of the
Company's boats from York Factory, caused great astonishment to the few
inmates of this dreary dwelling, and particularly to its master, Mr.
Charles Dease, who scarcely recovered from his surprise until we had
been seated some time in his room. But this over, he quickly put every
one in motion to prepare a meal for us, of which we stood in much need,
as it was then verging on midnight, and we had breakfasted at eight in
the morning. This post had been but recently established for the
convenience of the tribe of Indians whom Mackenzie calls the
Quarrellers, but whom the traders throughout the fur country name
Loucheux. As this name is now in general use, I shall adopt it, though
it is but justice to the people to say, that they have bright sparkling
eyes, without the least tendency to that obliquity which might be
inferred from the term. The fact is, that Loucheux, or Squinter, was
intended to convey the sense of the Indian name of the tribe--Deguthee
Dennee, which means "the people who avoid the arrows of their enemies,
by keeping a look out on both sides." None of the tribe was at this time
at the fort; but from Mr. Dease we learned the interesting fact, that
the Loucheux and Esquimaux, who are generally at war, had met amicably
the preceding spring, and that they were now at peace. We procured from
the store an assortment of beads, and such things as were most in
request with the Loucheux, and made up a small package of clothing to be
presented to each chief of that tribe, whose favour it was thought
advisable by this means to propitiate, as they were the next neighbours
to the Esquimaux.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 11th.] After the latitude had been observed, we
embarked, and were accompanied by Mr. Dease as far as Trading River,
where he expected there might still be a party of Indians, which did not
prove the case. This river being the usual limit of the trader's travels
towards the sea, the voyager who had come with us from Fort Norman
declined going any farther, and by permission of Mr. Dease he was
exchanged for a young half-breed named Baptiste, the interpreter of the
fort, who went under the promise of being left with the chief of the
Loucheux, to whom he was to introduce the party.
The reach below Trading River is remarkable, from the banks on the
eastern side consisting of hills of a light yellow marl-slate, nearly
uniform in shape, and strongly resembling piles of cannon shot. The name
of Cannon-Shot Reach was, therefore, bestowed on it. The channel of the
river is very intricate, winding amongst numerous sand-banks, and some
low alluvial islands, on which willows only grow. Its breadth is about
two miles, and the depth of water, in the autumn, from six to twelve
feet. In passing through Cannon-Shot Reach, we were hailed by an Indian
from the shore, and landed immediately, to inform him of the purport of
our visit. As soon as Baptiste had explained these matters to him, the
man, deeming it of importance that we should be properly introduced to
his relatives, offered to accompany us to the next party, providing we
would undertake to carry his baggage. This we consented to do, little
expecting, from the appearance of poverty in himself and his family, and
still less from that of his tent, a mere covering of bark and pine
branches, supported on three poles, that load upon load of unsavoury
fish would be tossed into the boat. However, we were unwilling to
retract our promise, and suffered our vessel to be completely lumbered.
We then pushed off, leaving the family to follow in the canoe, but in a
short time our ears were assailed by the loud cries of the man demanding
that we should stop. On his coming up, we found he was apprehensive of
the canoe sinking, it being very leaky and overloaded, and of his losing
his wife and infant child. The water being thrown out, the man proposed
going forward and keeping by our side. There was nothing now to fear,
yet the lamentations of the woman became louder and louder, and at last
the poor creature threw off her only covering, raised the most piteous
cries, and appeared a perfect object of despair. We learned from
Baptiste that she was mourning the loss of two near relatives who had
recently died near the spot we were passing. In this manner do these
simple people show their sorrow for the death of their connexions. As we
drew near the tents of the party on shore, the husband proclaimed with a
stentorian voice who we were; this produced a long reply, of which
Baptiste could only collect enough to inform us that many persons were
lying sick in the lodges, and that two had died the preceding day. Not
choosing to expose ourselves to the hazard of contagion, we put the
baggage of our friend on shore at some distance below the lodges. All
those who were able to manage a canoe, came off to receive presents, and
to see Augustus, the principal object of attraction. Each person
crowded to the side on which he sat to shake him by the hand; and two of
the party, who had been occasionally with the Esquimaux, contrived to
make him understand that, being accompanied by him, we need apprehend no
violence from them, though they were a treacherous people. At the end of
five miles farther we put on shore to sup, and afterwards slept in the
boat; but Augustus spread his blankets on the beach before the fire, and
allowed four of the Loucheux, who had followed us from the tents, to
share them with him.
[Sidenote: Friday, 12th.] At daylight we loosened from the beach, and
continued with the descent of the river; winding, in our course, as
numerous sand-banks rendered necessary. In a few hours we descried
another collection of Indian lodges. One of the party happened to be
examining his nets nearer to us than the tents; on espying the boat, he
immediately desisted, and paddled towards his friends with the utmost
speed, bawling the whole way for them to arm. The women and children
were seen hurrying up the bank to hide themselves; and by the time we
had got abreast of the lodges, the whole party were in a state of
defence. They stood on the beach gazing at us evidently with much
distrust; and for some time no one would accept our invitations to
approach. At length an adventurous youth, distinguishable among the rest
by the gaiety of his dress, and the quantity of beads that were
suspended around his neck, launched his canoe and paddled gently towards
the boat, till he discovered Augustus, whom he knew by his countenance
to be an Esquimaux; then rising from his seat, he threw up his hands for
joy, and desired every one of the party to embark at once. The summons
was instantly obeyed, and a friendly intercourse followed; each person
that had a gun discharging its contents, and taking the iron heads and
barbs from the arrows, to show their entire confidence. On landing to
breakfast, we found that the dialect of this party was different from
that of the men we had seen yesterday, and that Baptiste did not
understand their language; consequently our communications were carried
on by signs, except when they attempted to speak Esquimaux, which
Augustus, with difficulty, made out. He was still the centre of
attraction, notwithstanding Mr. Kendall and myself were dressed in
uniform, and were distributing presents to them. They caressed Augustus,
danced and played around him, to testify their joy at his appearance
among them, and we could not help admiring the demeanour of our
excellent little companion under such unusual and extravagant marks of
attention. He received every burst of applause, every shake of the hand,
with modesty and affability, but would not allow them to interrupt him
in the preparation of our breakfast, a task which he always delighted to
perform. As soon as we had finished our meal, he made his friends sit
down, and distributed to each person a portion of his own, but without
any affectation of superiority. When we were on the point of embarking,
the oldest Indian of the party intimated his desire that we should stop
until some one whom he had sent for should come. This proved to be his
son, in a very sickly state. Though the day was warm, the lad was
shivering with cold, and it was evident he was suffering from fever,
which the father had no doubt we could cure. The only remedy we could
apply was some warm tea, with a little brandy in it, which we afterwards
learned had the desired effect of restoring the invalid. Again we were
preparing to set off, when the same old man begged us to stop until the
women should come; these were no less pleased with Augustus, and with
the presents they received, than the men had been.
This good-natured tribe is distinguished by the traders as the Lower
Loucheux, but the literal meaning of their Indian name is the Sharp
Eyes. They are decidedly a well-looking people: in manner, and general
appearance, they resemble the Esquimaux near the mouth of the Mackenzie,
though not in their eyes, which are prominent and full. Their canoes,
too, are shaped like those of the Esquimaux, and made of birch bark,
which, by some process, is striped from the gunwale perpendicularly
downwards, for the purpose of ornament. Their summer dress, like that of
the Upper Loucheux and Esquimaux, is a jacket of leather, prolonged to a
point before and behind: the leggings, of the same material, are sewn to
the shoes, and tied by a string round the waist. The outer edges of
their dress are cut into fringes, coloured with red and yellow earth,
and generally decorated with beads. Beads are so much coveted by them,
that, for some years, they were the principal article of trade exchanged
for their furs; and even now the successful hunter, or the favourite
son, may be known by the quantity of strings of different coloured beads
which he has about his neck. These Indians are the only natives of
America, except the Esquimaux, whom I have seen with the septum of the
nose perforated, through which, like the Esquimaux, they thrust pieces
of bone, or small strings of shells, which they purchase from that
people. Few of them have guns, but each man is armed with a bow and
arrows. The bows are constructed of three pieces of wood, the middle one
straight, and those at each end crooked, and bound with sinews, of which
the string is also made. The dress of the women only differs from that
of the men by the hood being made sufficiently wide to admit of their
carrying a child on their back.
At ten A.M. we resumed our journey, followed by the young man who had
first spoken to us, and his brother, in their canoes, and in the course
of two hours came abreast of a remarkable round-backed hill, on which we
were informed Mr. Livingstone and his party had encamped in 1795, the
night before they were massacred. This hill marks the commencement of
another contraction of the river, which is here pent in between very
steep cliffs of blue limestone, which I have denominated the Narrows.
The Red River contributes its waters to the Mackenzie at the lower part
of the Narrows, in latitude 67 degrees 27 minutes N., longitude 133
degrees 31 minutes W.; and, though of inconsiderable size, is remarkable
as being the boundary between the lands claimed by the Loucheux Indians
and those of the Esquimaux, and likewise as the spot where the amicable
meeting between these tribes had been held in the preceding spring. We
did not find the chief of the Loucheux here, as had been expected, and
therefore passed on. The banks of the river, now entirely composed of
sand and sandstone, became gradually lower, and more bare of trees. At
the end of eight miles we arrived at a very spacious opening, in which
were numerous well-wooded islands, and various channels. The rocky
mountains on the west once more appeared in view, extending from S.W. to
N.W. and preserving a N.W.1/2W. direction; and of this range a very
lofty peak, and a table mountain, which I have named after the late Mr.
Gifford, form the most conspicuous features. We steered into the eastern
channel, as being that through which the current seemed to run swiftest;
and as soon as we came to a high bank we landed, for the purpose of
taking a survey of the surrounding scene. But even from its summit our
view was very limited, and all we could discover was, that we were
certainly in that expansion of the river that Mackenzie delineates in
his chart, and, therefore, in the fair way to the sea, whatever channel
we took. This might have been inferred, from the sudden departure of our
two Indian companions, who dropped behind and turned their canoes round,
without further ceremony, as soon as they saw our intention of entering
the eastern channel. Baptiste, who was asleep at the time, expressed
surprise at their having gone back, but consoled himself with the idea
of meeting the Indian chief the next morning, at a place he called the
Forks. We were amused at conjecturing how great his surprise would be
should he next be disturbed by the hallowing of a party of Esquimaux,
whom he greatly dreaded. At the end of twenty-three miles descent in the
middle channel, having passed one that branched off to the eastward, we
put up at an early hour, and caused the guns to be cleaned, and two
sentinels appointed to watch, lest the Esquimaux should come upon us
unawares. The banks of the river, as well as the islands, are entirely
alluvial, and support willows at the lower parts, and the spruce-fir
trees at the summits. The beach on which we were encamped was much
intersected with the recent tracts of the moose and rein-deer.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 13th.] We embarked at three A.M. on the 13th; and
as we were in momentary expectation of meeting the Esquimaux with whom I
wished to have an interview, the masts were struck, lest they should
discover the boat at a distance, and run off. We soon passed two of
their huts, which did not seem to have been recently inhabited. The
longitude 134 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds W., and variation 51 degrees
4 minutes 20 seconds E., were observed at the time we halted to
breakfast, and the latitude 68 degrees 15 minutes 50 seconds N., at
noon. The Rein-deer mountains on the eastern side, came in view before
noon. The range on the west was also occasionally visible: we were
descending between the M'Gillivray and Simpson islands, in a channel
that did not exceed half a mile in breadth. A fine breeze sprung up
after noon, of which we took advantage by setting the sails, not having
seen any recent traces of the Esquimaux. At the extremity of Simpson
island there is a broad channel, which pours its waters into the one in
which we were, at a place where the stream is contracted by a small
island, and a strong rapid is the consequence of this junction. Here we
found many huts, and other indications of its being a place of resort
for fishing; here, too, it is supposed Mr. Livingstone and his crew fell
a sacrifice to the first party of Esquimaux whom they met. Several other
openings branched off to the eastward; but we continued to follow the
largest channel, in which the current was very strong, and kept nearly
parallel to, and about ten miles from, the Rein-deer mountains. Their
outline, viewed from this distance, appeared very regular, the only
remarkable parts being some eminences that were tinged with a deep pink
colour. Sailing by one of the huts at a quick rate, every one's
attention was arrested at hearing a shrill sound, which was supposed to
be a human voice; but on landing to ascertain the fact, we could find no
person, nor any footsteps. We, therefore, continued our journey. As we
proceeded, the river became more devious in its course, the huts on the
Esquimaux were now more frequent; none of them, however, seemed to have
been recently inhabited. The islands were of the same alluvial kind as
those seen yesterday, and the wood on them equally plentiful and large.
We stopped to sup at nine, extinguished the fire as soon as we had
finished, and then retired to sleep in the boat, keeping two men on
guard.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 14th.] We set off aided by a fresh breeze this
morning, and at the end of seven miles came to the last of the fir
trees, in latitude 68 degrees 40 minutes N., the only wood beyond this
being stunted willows, which became still more dwarfish at thirty miles
from the mouth of the river. There was plenty of drift-wood on the
borders of the islands, and some even on the higher parts, at a distance
from the water; from which it would appear that at certain seasons they
are inundated. At length the main stream took a turn to the S.S.W.,
which we followed, though there was a branch northwards, but it seemed
to be much impeded by mud-banks.[1] At the end of eight miles the river
again inclined to the north of west, round the southern extremity of
Halkett island, and there were openings to the north and south, which we
did not stop to examine. A fog-bank hung over the northern horizon,
which gave us no little uneasiness, from its strong resemblance to a
continuous line of ice-blink; and the clouds, from the sun-beams falling
on them, had the exact appearance of icebergs. However, the sun became
sufficiently powerful in the afternoon to dissipate the cause of this
illusion, and relieve us from anxiety on that score. A body of water,
nearly equal to that we were descending, poured in between the Colville
and Halkett islands with such force as to cause a very strong ripple at
the point of junction, which we avoided by keeping close to the shore of
Langley island. The channel, after the union of these streams, increased
to a breadth of two miles, preserving a N.N.W. course. We stood twelve
miles in this direction, and two to the westward, when we were gratified
by the delightful prospect of the shore suddenly diverging, and a wide
space of open water to the northward, which we doubted not would prove
to be the sea. Just at this time a seal made its appearance, and sported
about the boat as if in confirmation of this opinion. We attempted to
coast along the shore of Ellice island, but found the water too shallow,
and that the boat grounded whenever we got out of the channel of the
river, which was near the western side. The wind and waves were too high
for us to make any progress in the middle of the stream, and as the
clouds threatened more boisterous weather, we went to Pitt island to
encamp. The haze which had hidden all distant objects since five P.M.
passed off as the sun set, and we gained a very magnificent view of that
portion of the rocky mountain which I have called after my companion Dr.
Richardson, and of which the remarkable conical peak, named in honour of
my friend Dr. Fitton, President of the Geological Society, and the
Cupola mountain, are the most conspicuous objects. These were
subsequently found to be near sixty miles distant. The water was
entirely fresh, and there was no perceptible rise of tide. Our drowsy
companion Baptiste, when he looked upon the vast expanse of water, for
the first time, expressed some apprehension that we had passed the
Forks, and that there was a doubt of our seeing the Indian chief; but he
was by no means convinced of the fact until the following day, when he
tasted salt water, and lost sight of the main shore. After our Sunday
evening's supper, the party assembled in the tent to read prayers, and
return thanks to the Almighty, for having thus far crowned our labours
with success.
[Sidenote: Monday, 15th.] In the morning of the fifteenth the wind blew
a gale, as it had done through the night, and every object was obscured
by a thick fog. About six A.M. we took advantage of a temporary
abatement of the wind to cross over to some higher land on the eastern
side, which we had seen the preceding evening, appearing like islands.
Owing to the thickness of the fog, we were guided in our course at
starting solely by the compass. When we reached the channel of the
river, the gale returned with increased violence, and its direction
being opposite to the current, such high waves were raised, that the
boat took in a good deal of water. The fog now cleared away, and the
three eminences mistaken for islands were ascertained to be conical
hummocks, rising above the low eastern shore. We pushed for the nearest,
and landed a short distance from its base at eight A.M. On going to the
summit of this eminence, in the expectation of obtaining the bearings of
several distant points, we were a little disappointed to find that only
the low shores of Pitt Island were visible, extending from S.E. to
W.N.W., though we were repaid for our visit by observing two moose deer
quietly browsing on the tops of the willows, a short distance from us.
Mr. Kendall hastened down to despatch Baptiste in pursuit of them, who
returned an hour afterwards to inform us that he had wounded one, which
he had been prevented from following by the loss of his powder-horn. As
there was no possibility of our getting forward until the gale abated,
Baptiste and Augustus were sent out to hunt, there being numerous tracks
of moose and rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the tent. I also
despatched Mr. Kendall, with two seamen, to walk some distance into the
interior, and endeavour to clear up the doubt whether we were upon the
main shore, or upon an island. The astronomical observations obtained at
the encampment place it in latitude 69 degrees 3 minutes 45 seconds N.,
longitude 135 degrees 44 minutes 57 seconds W. A tide-pole was put up
immediately on our landing, and we perceived the water to rise about
three inches in the course of the forenoon, and to fall the same
quantity in the evening. The temperature of the air did not exceed
forty-eight degrees all this day: when in the river, it used to vary
from 55 degrees to 70 degrees. Mr. Kendall came back in the evening,
bringing the agreeable intelligence that he had assisted in killing a
female moose and her calf, and that Augustus had shot a rein-deer. Some
men were sent to carry the meat to the borders of a river which Mr.
Kendall had discovered, while the boat went round to its entrance about
one mile from the encampment. They returned at sunset. Many geese and
ducks were seen by our hunters. Throughout the whole of Mr. Kendall's
walk, of twelve or fourteen miles, he saw only the same kind of flat
land, covered with the dwarf willow and the moose-berry plant, as was
discovered from the tent, except one small lake, and the river that has
been mentioned, issuing from it.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 16th.] The atmosphere was so thick on the morning of
the 16th as to confine our view to a few yards; we therefore remained at
the encampment till the sun had sufficient power to remove the fog:
temperature of the air 39 degrees. Embarking at eleven A.M., we
continued our course along the shore of Ellice Island, until we found
its coast trending southward of east. There we landed, and were rejoiced
at the sea-like appearance to the northward. This point is in latitude
69 degrees 14 minutes N., longitude 135 degrees 57 minutes W., and forms
the north-eastern entrance to the main channel of the Mackenzie River,
which, from Slave Lake to this point, is one thousand and forty-five
miles according to our survey. An island was now discovered to the
N.E., looking blue from its distance, towards which the boat was
immediately directed. The water, which for the last eight miles had been
very shallow, became gradually deeper, and of a more green colour,
though still fresh, even when we had entirely lost sight of the eastern
land. In the middle of the traverse, we were caught by a strong contrary
wind, against which our crews cheerfully contended for five hours,
though drenched by the spray, and even by the waves, which came into the
boat. Unwilling to return without attaining the object of our search,
when the strength of the rowers was nearly exhausted, as a last
resource, the sails were set double-reefed, and our excellent boat
mounted over the waves in the most buoyant manner. An opportune
alteration of the wind enabled us, in the course of another hour, to
fetch into smoother water, under the shelter of the island. We then
pulled across a line of strong ripple which marked the termination of
the fresh water, that on the seaward side being brackish; and in the
further progress of three miles to the island, we had the indescribable
pleasure of finding the water decidedly salt.
The sun was setting as the boat touched the beach, and we hastened to
the most elevated part of the island, about two hundred and fifty feet
high, to look around; and never was a prospect more gratifying than that
which lay open to us. The Rocky Mountains were seen from S.W. to
W.1/2N.; and from the latter point, round by the north, the sea appeared
in all its majesty, entirely free from ice, and without any visible
obstruction to its navigation. Many seals, and black and white whales
were sporting on its waves; and the whole scene was calculated to excite
in our minds the most flattering expectations as to our own success, and
that of our friends in the Hecla and the Fury. There were two groups of
islands at no great distance; to the one bearing south-east I had the
pleasure of affixing the name of my excellent friend and companion Mr.
Kendall, and to that bearing north-east the name of Pelly was given, as
a tribute justly due to the Governor of the Hudson Bay Company, for his
earnest endeavours to promote the progress and welfare of the
Expedition. A similar feeling towards my much esteemed friend Mr. Garry,
the Deputy Governor of the Company, prompted me to appropriate his name
to the island on which we stood,--a poor, indeed, but heartfelt
expression of gratitude, for all his active kindness and indefatigable
attention to the comfort of myself and my companions.
During our absence the men had pitched the tent on the beach, and I
caused the silk union-flag to be hoisted, which my deeply-lamented wife
had made and presented to me, as a parting gift, under the express
injunction that it was not to be unfurled before the Expedition reached
the sea. I will not attempt to describe my emotions as it expanded to
the breeze--however natural, and, for the moment, irresistible, I felt
that it was my duty to suppress them, and that I had no right, by an
indulgence of my own sorrows, to cloud the animated countenances of my
companions. Joining, therefore, with the best grace that I could
command, in the general excitement, I endeavoured to return with
corresponding cheerfulness, their warm congratulations on having thus
planted the British flag on this remote island of the Polar Sea.
Some spirits, which had been saved for the occasion, were issued to the
men; and with three fervent cheers they drank to the health of our
beloved monarch, and to the continued success of our enterprize. Mr.
Kendall and I had also reserved a little of our brandy, in order to
celebrate this interesting event; but Baptiste, in his delight of
beholding the sea, had set before us some salt water, which having been
mixed with the brandy before the mistake was discovered, we were
reluctantly obliged to forego the intended draught, and to use it in the
more classical form of a libation poured on the ground.
Baptiste, on discovering that he had actually reached the ocean, stuck
his feathers in his hat, and exultingly exclaimed, "Now that I am one of
the _Gens de la mer_, you shall see how active I will be, and how I will
crow over the _Gens du nord_," the name by which the Athabasca voyagers
are designated. No fresh water was found on Garry Island until Augustus
discovered a small lake, the streams that poured down from the cliffs
being as salt as the sea. The temperature of the sea water was 51
degrees; the fresh water we had left at five miles from the island 55
degrees; and that of the air 52 degrees.
Garry Island is about five miles long, by two broad, and seems to be a
mass of frozen mud, which, in the parts exposed to the air and sun, has
a black earthy appearance. It is terminated to the north-west by a steep
cliff, through which protrude, in a highly inclined position, several
layers of wood-coal, similar to that found in the Mackenzie. There was
likewise observed a bituminous liquid trickling down in many parts, but
particularly near the south-west point of the cliff where the bank had
been broken away, and a hollow cavity was formed. The ravines and
gullies were still filled with ice, though none was seen on the level
ground. There were no stones above the sea level; those on the beach
consisted of granite, greenstone, quartz, and lydian-stone, of a small
size and completely rounded. The vegetable productions were grasses, a
few mosses, and some shrubs, the latter in flower. Four foxes were the
only land animals we saw; and a small hawk, some gulls, dotterels, and
phaleropes, composed the list of birds. A large medusa was found on the
beach.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 17th.] The sky was cloudless on the morning of the
17th, which enabled us to ascertain the position of our encampment to be
in latitude 69 degrees 29 minutes N., longitude 135 degrees 41 minutes
W., and the variation of the magnetic needle to be 51 degrees 42 minutes
E. We likewise found that it was high water that day at one P.M. with a
rise and fall of eight inches, but the direction of the flood could not
be ascertained. I wrote for Captain Parry an account of our progress,
with such information as he might require, in case he wished to
communicate either with the Company's Post at Fort Good Hope, or our
party, and deposited my letter, with many others that I had in charge
for himself and the officers of the ships, under a pole erected for the
purpose, on which we left a blue and red flag flying, to attract his
attention. Another statement of our proceedings was encased in a
waterproof box, and committed to the sea, a mile to the northward of the
island. The wind blew strong off the land at the time, and there was a
gale from the north-west the next day, so that there is every chance of
the letter having made good way to the eastward.
Having completed the observations, we embarked at two P.M., and pulled
along the western shore of the island three miles to the sandy spit at
its south-west end, on which there was a vast quantity of drift-wood
piled by the action of the waves. From this point we launched forth to
cross towards the Mackenzie under double-reefed sails, as the wind was
blowing strong, and the waves high in the offing; but finding the boat
very stiff and buoyant, the sail was increased, and reaching the eastern
point of Ellice Island by seven P.M. we encamped at the foot of the
outermost of the three hummocks mentioned on the 15th of August. As we
passed along the shore of the island, we disturbed some moose and
rein-deer, and several geese, cranes, and swans, that were quietly
feeding near the water. At this period of the year, therefore, there
would be no lack of food, in this country, for the skilful hunter. In
the course of the evening I found that a piece of the wood-coal from
Garry's Island, which I had placed in my pocket, had ignited
spontaneously, and scorched the metal powder-horn by its side.
Our enterprising precursor, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, has been blamed for
asserting that he had reached the sea, without having ascertained that
the water was salt. He, in fact, clearly states that he never did reach
the salt water. The danger to which his canoe was exposed in venturing
two or three miles beyond Whale Island, (which lies to the eastward of
our route,) at a time when the sea was covered with ice to the north, is
a sufficient reason for his turning back; and we can abundantly testify
that those frail vessels are totally unfitted to contend against such
winds and seas as we experienced in advancing beyond the volume of fresh
water poured out by the Mackenzie. It is probable, therefore, that even
had the sea been free from ice at the time of his visit, he could not
have gone far enough to prove its saltness, though the boundless
horizon, the occurrence of a tide, and the sight of porpoises and
whales, naturally induced him to say that he had arrived at the ocean.
The survey of the Mackenzie made on this Expedition, differs very little
in its outline from that of its discoverer, whose general correctness we
had often occasion to admire. We had, indeed, to alter the latitude and
longitude of some of its points, which he most probably laid down from
magnetic bearings only; and it is proper to remark, that in comparing
our magnetic bearings with his, throughout the whole course of the
river, they were found to be about fifteen degrees more easterly; which
may, therefore, be considered as the amount of increase in variation
since 1789. In justice to the memory of Mackenzie, I hope the custom of
calling this the Great River, which is in general use among the traders
and voyagers, will be discontinued, and that the name of its eminent
discoverer may be universally adopted.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 18th.] The excursions to Garry Island having made
us acquainted with the state of the sea to the northward, and having
shown that, the bank at the mouth of the river being passed, there was
no visible impediment to a boat's proceeding eastward, I was desirous of
making further examination in aid of the future operations of the
Expedition, by going over to the western shore, and of reaching, if
possible, the foot of the Rocky Mountains. With these intentions we
embarked at nine A.M., but before we could get half way to the nearest
part of Pitt Island, a gale of wind came on from N.W., followed by
violent squalls, which, from the threatening appearance of the clouds,
and the rapid descent of the thermometer from 68 degrees to 51 degrees,
seemed likely to be of some continuance. The design was, therefore,
abandoned, and the boat's head directed towards the entrance of the
river. It proved, however, no easy task to get into the proper channel;
and to effect this object the officers and crew had to drag the boat
half a mile over a bar, while the waves were beating into it with such
force as to make us apprehensive of its being swamped. As soon as we
were in deep water, all the sail was set that the boat could bear, and
at two P.M. we arrived at the narrow part. Here, likewise, the waves
were high and breaking, and for the purpose of avoiding these and the
strength of the current, we kept as close to the shore as possible,
going through the water at seven miles an hour, and about four over the
current. The wild fowl, warned by the sudden change of the weather, took
advantage of this fair wind, and hastened away in large flights to the
southward. At ten P.M., the boat having twice grounded, from our not
being able to see our way clearly, we halted to sup, and laid down to
sleep before a good fire. Temperature at 45 degrees.
[Sidenote: Friday, 19th.] When daylight permitted us to distinguish the
channels, we embarked again, and scudded under the foresail before the
gale, which this day blew with increased violence. We halted to
breakfast near some winter habitations of the Esquimaux, which we
supposed, from the freshness of the wood-shavings, and the implements of
fishing that were scattered about them, had been abandoned only in the
preceding spring; and as it was probable they would revisit this spot,
we fixed to the pole of a tent a present of a kettle, knife, hatchet,
file, ice-chisel, some beads, and pieces of red and blue cloth. These
huts were constructed of drift wood, in a similar manner to those which
will be described in a subsequent part of the narrative. A second
present was deposited at some other huts, and a third at those below the
rapids. We imagined that some, if not all, of these would be found by
the Esquimaux, and would make them acquainted with our visit. By noon we
had advanced as far as the rapid, which we ascended under sail; and at a
few miles above this point, owing to the fogginess of the atmosphere, we
took a more western channel than that by which we descended. This proved
circuitous, though it ultimately brought us to the former route. It was
quite dark before we could find a secure place for the boat, and a
sheltered spot for the tent. The gale continued without abatement, the
weather was raw and cold, and it was with difficulty we collected some
sticks to kindle a fire. Temperature 40 degrees.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 20th.] On the 20th the wind was moderate. We
resumed our journey at four A.M.; past our sleeping-place of the 12th by
noon, and at sunset encamped at the narrow part of the river where the
numerous channels commence. Large flights of geese and swans were
observed passing to the southward all this day. The musquitoes again
made their appearance, though the temperature was at 45 degrees:
scarcely any of them had been seen on the descent to the sea.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 21st.] Temperature at day light, on the 21st, 37
degrees. We commenced our labour under oars, but a strong gale from the
southward soon rendered this mode of ascending the river ineffectual.
The men were, therefore, divided into two parties, who towed the boat by
line, relieving each other at intervals of an hour and a half. At fifty
minutes past one P.M. we were abreast of the Red River, and there met a
large party of the lower Loucheux Indians, who had assembled to wait our
arrival. They welcomed our return with every demonstration of joy, more
particularly that of Augustus and Baptiste, and at first cheerfully
assisted the men in towing, but, like Indians in general, they soon
became tired of this labour, and rather impeded than forwarded our
progress. So we distributed to each a present; made known as well as
well as we could by signs, that at our next visit we would purchase
whatever fish or meat they might collect, and took our leave of them.
Owing to the detention these men and another party occasioned, we were
caught by a heavy gale from N.W. before we could reach our encampment at
the head of the Narrows, and had to pitch the tent in pelting rain.
Temperature 43 degrees.
[Sidenote: Monday, 22nd.] On the 22nd, we started at four in a thick wet
fog, which gave place to snow and sleet, and sailed the whole day before
a strong N.W. wind, much to the annoyance of several Indians who tried
to keep pace with the boat, by running along the shore: each of them had
a present of tobacco thrown to him. We encamped near the bottom of
Cannon-Shot Reach; the weather was extremely cold, and, during the
night, ice was formed in the kettle. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 23rd.] On the
next day the wind came contrary from S.E., which obliged us to have
recourse to the tow-line. The frequent recurrence of sand-banks, to
avoid which we had either to pull round or cross the river, made this
day's operations very tedious. In turning round one of the points, we
came suddenly upon a party of Indians, who had not seen us on our way
down. Our appearance, therefore, created great alarm; the women and
children were instantly despatched to the woods, and the men came down
to the beach with their guns and arrows prepared, and knives drawn; but
the explanation that Baptiste gave, soon allayed their fears. They were,
indeed, objects of pity; all their property had been destroyed to
testify their grief at the death of some of their relations, and the
bodies of several were still sore from the deep gashes they had
inflicted on themselves in their demonstrations of sorrow. We
distributed such useful articles among them as we had remaining, but the
supply was not at all equal to their necessities. Several of them
attempted to follow us in their canoes by poling, which they dexterously
perform by pushing at the same time with a pole or paddle in each hand;
the boat however, was towed faster than they could ascend the stream,
and they were soon far behind. We arrived at six P.M. at the Trading
River, and there met another party of the Loucheux, among whom was the
woman whose tears had excited our sympathy on the 11th, now in high
glee, and one of the most importunate for beads. The boy was likewise
there to whom the tea had been given as a remedy for his fever,
completely recovered, which was, no doubt, ascribed to the efficacy of
the medicine. Not choosing to encamp near these people, we crossed the
river, and towed four hours longer, when we reached Fort Good Hope. Mr.
Dease, and all his fort, were overjoyed on seeing us again, because the
Indians had begun to surmise, and in fact had brought a report that we
had all been massacred by the Esquimaux; and had we been detained
another week, this statement would have gained entire credence, and, in
all probability, spread throughout the country.
The Indian whose fish we carried on our way down, happened to be at the
fort, and he cheerfully communicated, through the interpreter, a female,
all the information that he or his tribe possessed respecting the mouth
of the river, the sea-coast, and the Esquimaux, all topics highly
interesting to us, but we subsequently found that his knowledge of these
matters was very imperfect. We made known to him our wish that the
Esquimaux should be informed of our arrival as soon as possible, and
signified that a very substantial present would be given to any person
that would carry the intelligence to them in the course of the following
winter. Mr. Dease pressed this point strongly on his consideration. This
gentleman, indeed, was anxious to promote our desires in every respect,
and promised that his utmost exertions should be used to procure a good
supply of provision for our next summer's voyage, though he represented
the hunters in this vicinity as unskilful and inactive, and begged of me
not to rely too much on his collection. We left in his charge five bags
of pemmican, and the superfluous stores, to lighten the boats. We
quitted the fort in the afternoon with a contrary wind, and towed twenty
miles up the stream before we encamped, though the beach was composed of
sharp stones, which rendered walking very unpleasant.
The wind being contrary during the four following days, we could only
ascend the river by using the tracking line. Our crew cheerfully
performed this tedious service, though three of them had been much
reduced by dysentery, brought on by previous fatigue, exposure to wet,
and by their having lived for some time on dried provision. These men,
however, had gradually been gaining strength since the fresh meat was
procured on Ellice Island.
On the 25th we came to the aspen, poplar, and larch, in latitude 67
degrees 10 minutes N., and were not a little surprised to observe the
change in their foliage within the last fortnight. Their leaves had
assumed the autumnal tint, and were now fast falling. The wild fowl were
hastening in large flocks to the south, and every appearance warned us
that the fine season drew near its close.
[Sidenote: 28th.] In the passage through the rampart defile, several
families of the Hare Indians were observed encamped on the heights, for
the purpose of gathering berries which were at this time ripe, and in
the best flavour. At the first sight of the boat the women and children
scampered down wherever descent was practicable, to get at their canoes,
that they might cross over to us, but we travelled so fast that only a
few could overtake the boat. The Indians who reside near this river,
from their want of skill in hunting, principally subsist, from spring to
autumn, on the produce of their fishing nets, and on wild berries. At
the influx of small streams, or wherever there is any eddy, a net is
set. In shallow water it is suspended upon sticks planted in a
semicircle, so as to enclose the mouth of the river, or the sweep of the
eddy; but where the water is deep, and the shore bold or rocky, two
stout poles are firmly secured at a short distance from the water's
edge, the breadth of a net apart, to the ends of which pliable rods are
fastened, of a length sufficient to hang over the water, and to these
the net is attached. In the winter these Indians snare hares, which are
very abundant in this quarter.
[Sidenote: 29th.] On the 29th we arrived at the upper rapids, which were
scarcely discernible at the time of our descent; but from the falling of
the water since that time, there was a dry sand-bank of considerable
extent in the centre, and the waters on each side of it were broken and
covered with foam. Augustus being tired with tracking, had wandered from
us to the extremity of this bank, from whence he could not be extricated
without great hazard, unless by making him return to the bottom of the
rapid. As this, however, would have compelled the poor fellow to pass
the night upon the sand-bank, Mr. Kendall undertook to bring him off,
by running with the current to the point at the commencement of the
rapids, which he effected in a masterly manner, although the boat struck
twice, and was in considerable danger from the violence of the eddies.
We found, at the place of our encampment, a solitary old woman, sitting
by a small fire, who seemed somewhat alarmed at her visitors, until she
was joined, after dark, by her husband and son. As soon as the man
understood from our signs that we were desirous of having some fish for
supper, he instantly embarked to examine his nets; but as they proved to
be empty, the woman generously dragged a pike out of a bundle on which
she was sitting, and presented it to us, though it was evidently
reserved for their own meal. In return we furnished them with a more
substantial supper, and made them some useful presents. The weather was
extremely sultry throughout this day; at two P.M. the thermometer stood
in the shade at 66 degrees, and at 76 degrees when exposed to the sun.
The refraction of the atmosphere, which we had often remarked to be
unusually great since we had entered the Mackenzie, was this day
particularly powerful. The mountains were distorted into the most
extraordinary shapes, and the banks of the river, which we knew to be
only from thirty to sixty feet high, appeared to have such an elevation,
that it would have been impossible for us to recognise the land. The air
became cooler in the evening, and the atmosphere less refractive. Soon
after sunset the objects appeared in their proper form, and we enjoyed
the prospect of the delightful mountain scenery that distinguishes this
rapid.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 30th.] Favoured by a N.W. gale, we made great
progress on the 30th. The temperature of the air varied in the course of
the day from 62 degrees to 41 degrees. The brulots and sand-flies were
very teazing wherever we landed; but these, unlike the musquitoes,
disappear with the sun.
The upper parts of the Rocky Mountains on the western side of the river
were, at this time, covered with snow, but not those of the eastern
side, which are, probably, less elevated than the former. We had no
opportunity of ascertaining their height, though we conjectured that the
loftiest did not exceed two thousand feet, as it was free from snow in
the early part of August.
[Sidenote: September, 1st.] At sunset this evening we quitted the muddy
waters of the Mackenzie, and entered the clear stream that flows from
the Great Bear Lake; but owing to the shallowness of the water near its
mouth, and the beach being a mere collection of stones, we had to grope
our way long after dark in search of a place for an encampment,
stumbling and falling at every step. At length we espied a light about a
mile further up the river on the opposite shore; we, therefore, crossed
over, at the expense of some heavy blows to the boat, and tracked along
the base of a steep bank, until we reached the fire. There we found a
Canadian and two Indian boys who had been sent from Bear Lake three days
before in a canoe, to procure some white mud from the banks of the
MacKenzie to decorate our house. This man was the bearer of a letter
from Lieutenant Back to me, which detailed the proceedings at the Fort.
[Sidenote: Friday, 2nd.] We embarked at daylight, having the canoe in
company. The weather was cold and raw throughout the day; the
temperature from 34 degrees to 45 degrees; but the party were kept in
constant exercise, either in tracking or walking; the steersman and
bowman only being required in the boat. Except where the river was
bounded by steep cliffs, the path was pretty good. Its general breadth
varied from three hundred to five hundred yards, and its banks were
tolerably well wooded, but the trees were small.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 3rd.] This morning the ground was firmly frozen,
and the thermometer stood at 28 degrees, when we commenced our
operations. Early in the afternoon we arrived at the lower part of the
mountain, and which we had kept in view this day, and the greater part
of the preceding. As we had now to ascend a succession of rapids for
fifteen miles, and two of our crew were lame, I directed the canoe to be
laid up on the shore, and took the Canadian and the boys to assist at
the tow-line. We had not advanced more than two miles before we met with
an accident that was likely to have been attended with serious
consequences: in the act of hauling round a projecting point, and in the
strength of the current, the tow-line broke, and the boat was driven
with great force against a large stone at some distance from the shore,
having deep water on every side. There it lay with the broadside exposed
to the whole pressure of the current, beating violently against the
stone; and from this situation it could not have been extricated, had
not Gustavus Aird, the strongest man of the party, ventured to wade into
the river at the imminent risque of being swept off his feet, until he
could catch the rope that was thrown to him from the boat. As soon as it
was dragged to the shore, we found that part of the keel was gone, and
the remainder much twisted, and all the fastenings of the lowest plank
were loosened. The carpenter set to work to repair this mischief in the
best manner he could with the materials he had, and before night the
boat was again launched. The leaks, however, could not be quite stopped,
and in our further progress one of the men was constantly employed
baling out the water.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 4th.] The next day's operations were tedious and
hazardous as long as the rapids continued. The men had to walk with the
tow-line along a narrow ledge that jutted out from the base of a steep
rocky cliff, which was very slippery from the rain that had fallen in
the night: a false step might have proved fatal; and we rejoiced when,
having passed the rapids, we found earthy banks and a better path. The
services of Augustus and the Indian lads being no longer required, I
despatched them to the Fort, to apprize the party there of our approach.
We had a severe frost this night: at daylight in the morning the
thermometer was down to 20 degrees, and a raw fog contributed to make
the weather very cold and comfortless. The sun shone forth about eleven,
and soon dispersed the fog, and then the temperature gradually rose to
54 degrees.
[Sidenote: Monday, 5th.] At four P.M. we arrived at the foot of the
upper rapid, and in two hours afterwards entered the Great Bear Lake,
and reached the house at seven. Dr. Richardson having returned from his
voyage to the northern part of the lake, the members of the Expedition
were now, for the first time, all assembled. We heartily congratulated
each other on this circumstance, and also on the prospect of being
snugly settled in our winter-quarters before the severe weather. Dr.
Richardson had surveyed the Bear Lake to the influx of Dease's River,
near its N.E. termination, at which point it is nearest to the
Coppermine River. He fixed upon the first rapid in Dease River as the
best point to which the eastern detachment of the Expedition could
direct its steps, on its return from the mouth of the Coppermine River
the following season. The rapid was, by observation, in latitude 66
degrees 53 minutes N., and longitude 118 degrees 35 minutes W., and the
variation of the magnetic needle there, was 47 degrees 29 minutes E.
THE FOLLOWING TABLE CONTAINS THE DISTANCES TRAVELLED BY THE EXPEDITION
DURING THE SUMMER OF 1825.
Principal Places. Statute Miles.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From New York to Penetanguishene, by the route we travelled 760
Lake Huron 250
Lake Superior 406
From Fort William to Cumberland House 1018
Cumberland House to Fort Chipewyan 840
Chipewyan to Fort Resolution, Slave Lake 240
Fort Resolution to the commencement of the Mackenzie 135
Head of the Mackenzie to Fort Simpson 103
Fort Simpson to Bear Lake River 271
Bear Lake River to, and the return from, Garry Island 1206
Length of the Bear Lake River to the Fort 91
Dr. Richardson's excursion to the north-east termination of }
Bear Lake } 483
----
Distance travelled 5803
----
Number of Miles surveyed 2593
FOOTNOTES:
[1] An attentive perusal of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's Narrative leads me
to the conclusion, that it was this northern branch which that traveller
pursued in his voyage to Whale Island.
CHAPTER II.
TRANSACTIONS AT FORT FRANKLIN, 1825-26.
Mr. Dease having passed the winter of 1824-25 at the Big Island of
Mackenzie, arrived here with fifteen Canadian voyagers, Beaulieu, the
interpreter, and four Chipewyan hunters, on the twenty-seventh of July,
1825; which, on account of the drifting of the ice, was as soon as he
could, with safety, ascend the Bear Lake River. Several of the Dog-Rib
Indians were on the spot, which enabled him to take immediate steps
towards procuring a supply of dried meat for our winter use, as well as
of fresh meat for present consumption. It having been ascertained that
the Rein-deer are most abundant in the north-east quarter of the lake,
during the months of August and September, a select party of Indians was
despatched to hunt thereabout, under the direction of the interpreter,
who took a large canoe for the purpose of bringing home the produce of
their hunt. Other men were sent to inform the Hare Indians of our wish
to purchase any meat they might bring to the establishment. Our
principal subsistence, however, was, to be derived from the water, and
Mr. Dease was determined in the selection of the spot on which our
residence was to be erected, by its proximity to that part of the lake
where the fish had usually been abundant. The place decided upon was the
site of an old fort belonging to the North-West Company, which had been
abandoned many years; our buildings being required of a much larger
size, we derived very little benefit from its materials. The wood in the
immediate vicinity having been all cut down for fuel by the former
residents, the party was obliged to convey the requisite timber in rafts
from a considerable distance, which, of course, occasioned trouble and
delay. We found, however, on our arrival, all the buildings in a
habitable state, but wanting many internal arrangements to fit them for
a comfortable winter residence. They were disposed so as to form three
sides of a square, the officers' house being in the centre, those for
the men on the right, with a house for the interpreter's family, and the
store on the left. A blacksmith's shop and meat store were added, and
the whole was inclosed by the stockading of the original fort, which we
found highly serviceable in screening us from the snow-drift and wintry
blasts. The officers' dwelling measured forty-four feet by twenty-four,
and contained a hall and four apartments, beside a kitchen. That of the
men was thirty-six feet by twenty-three, and was divided into three
rooms. These buildings were placed on a dry sandy bank, about eighty
yards from the lake, and twenty-five feet above it; at the distance of a
half a mile in our rear, the ground rose to the height of one hundred
and fifty feet, and continued in an even ridge, on which, though the
timber had been felled, we found plenty of small trees for fuel. This
ridge bounded our view to the north; and to the west, though confined to
less than two miles, the prospect was pretty, from its embracing a small
lake, and the mouth of a narrow stream that flowed in at its head. Our
southern view commanded the south-west arm of Bear Lake, which is here
four miles wide, and not deeper than from three to five fathoms, except
in the channel of the river, which conveys its waters to the Mackenzie.
We had also, in front, the Clark-hill, a mountain about thirty-six miles
distant, which was always visible in clear weather. When the refraction
was great, we saw the tops of some other hills, belonging to the range
that extends from Clark-hill to the rapid in Bear Lake River.
Immediately under the sandy soil on which the house stood, there is a
bed of tenacious bluish clay, of unknown thickness, which, even in the
months of August and September, was firmly frozen at the depth of
twenty-one inches from the surface. No rocks were exposed in any part,
and wherever the surface had been torn up, a clayey soil appeared. Many
boulder stones of granite, limestone, sandstone and trap rocks, were
scattered about the lake, not far from the shore.
The trees at some distance from our fort consisted of black and white
spruce, and larch, generally small, though a few of the better grown
measured from four to five feet in girth, and were from fifty to
fifty-five feet high. Dr. Richardson ascertained, by counting the annual
rings, that some of them, in a sound state, were upwards of one hundred
and thirty years old; while others, which were not much greater in size,
had two hundred and fifty rings, but these were decayed at the heart.
The officers had done me the honour, previous to my arrival, of giving
the name of Franklin to the fort, which I felt a grateful pleasure in
retaining at their desire, though I had intended naming it Fort
Reliance. The number of persons belonging to the establishment amounted
to fifty: consisting of five officers, including Mr. Dease; nineteen
British seamen, marines, and voyagers; nine Canadians; two Esquimaux;
Beaulieu, and four Chipewyan hunters; three women, six children, and
one Indian lad; besides a few infirm Indians, who required temporary
support. This party was far too large to gain subsistence by fishing at
one station only; two houses were, therefore, constructed at four and
seven miles distance, from the fort, to which parties were sent,
provided with the necessary fishing implements; and not more than thirty
persons were left to reside at the principal establishment. From fifteen
to twenty nets were kept in use, under the superintendence of Pascal
Cote, an experienced fisherman, who had two assistants. These were
placed opposite the house, and towards the end of summer, and in autumn,
they yielded daily from three to eight hundred fish, of the kind called
"the Herring Salmon of Bear Lake," and occasionally some trout,
tittameg, and carp. Four Dog-Rib Indians, who were engaged to hunt the
Rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the fort, from want of skill,
contributed very little fresh meat to our store. Augustus and Ooligbuck
employed themselves in the same service, but from not being accustomed
to hunt in a woody country, they were not more successful.
The consideration of next importance to furnishing the party with food,
was to provide regular occupation for the men, who had not the resources
to employ their time which the officers possessed. Accordingly, some
were appointed to attend exclusively to the fishing nets, others to
bring home the meat whenever the hunters killed any deer; some were
stationed to fell wood for fuel, others to convey it to the house, and a
third set to split it for use. Two of the most expert travellers on
snow-shoes were kept in nearly constant employment conveying letters to
and from the posts in the Mackenzie and Slave Lake. As the days
shortened, it was necessary to find employment during the long evenings,
for those resident at the house, and a school was, therefore,
established on three nights of the week, from seven o'clock to nine, for
their instruction, in reading, writing, and arithmetic; and it was
attended by most of the British party. They were divided in equal
portions amongst the officers, whose labour was amply repaid by the
advancement their pupils made: some of those who began with the
alphabet, learned to read and write with tolerable correctness. Sunday
was a day of rest; and, with the exception of two or three of the
Canadians, the whole party uniformly attended Divine service, morning
and evening. If, on the other evenings for which no particular
occupation was appointed, the men felt the time tedious, or if they
expressed a wish to vary their employments, the hall was at their
service, to play any game they might choose; and on these occasions they
were invariably joined by the officers. By thus participating in their
amusements, the men became more attached to us, at the same time that we
contributed to their health and cheerfulness. The hearts and feelings of
the whole party were united into one common desire to make the time pass
as agreeably as possible to each other, until the return of spring
should enable them to resume the great object of the Expedition.
The officers found employment in making and registering the
thermometrical, magnetical, and atmospherical observations, which were
hourly noted from eight A.M. to midnight; and, in addition to the duties
which they had in common, each had a peculiar department allotted to
him.
Lieutenant Back had the superintendence of the men; and the accurate
drawings which he finished during the winter, from sketches taken on the
voyage, afford ample proof of his diligence and skill. Dr. Richardson,
besides the duties of medical officer, which, from the numerous
applications made by the natives, were not inconsiderable, devoted his
attention to natural history, as well as to a series of observations on
the force of the sun's radiation. Mr. Kendall constructed all the charts
after the data had been recalculated by myself; he also made several
drawings; and he undertook an interesting series of observations on the
velocity of sound. To Mr. Dease the charge was committed of whatever
related to the procuring and issuing of provision, and the entire
management of the Canadian voyagers and Indians.
Previous to the officers leaving London, Dr. Fitton, President of the
Geological Society, had the kindness to devote much of his time to their
instruction in geology; and having furnished them with a portable
collection for the purpose of reference on the voyage, Dr. Richardson,
when he had leisure, explained these specimens, weekly, to the party,
and assisted them in reading on this science, which proved a most
agreeable and useful recreation to us all.
Some of the preceding remarks refer to a period of our residence later
than that which I am about to enter upon; but I thought it best to
insert them here, that the mention of them might not interrupt the
narrative of occurrences which I shall now resume.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 8th.] On September 8th, two men were sent off to
Slave Lake, in a canoe, with a despatch, containing an account of our
proceedings, addressed to His Majesty's Secretary of State for the
Colonies; and as we expected letters from England, by the way of
Hudson's Bay, they directed to await their arrival at Slave Lake. There
was almost constant rain from the 11th to the 14th, which much retarded
the work going on out of doors, and particularly the construction of an
observatory, which we were desirous of completing as soon as possible,
that the magnetical observations might be commenced. We found
employment, however, in whitewashing and fitting up the interior of the
different houses. The 15th proving fine, we established a meridian line,
and ascertained the variation by each of the compasses.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] Beaulieu returned with his family, the
Chipewyan hunters, and some Dog-Ribs, bringing a supply of dried meat,
rein-deer tongues, and fat, sufficient for a month's consumption, which
was reserved for use when the fishing should become unproductive. These
men reported, that at the time they quitted the northern shores of the
lake, the deer were retiring towards this quarter; which intelligence
accounted for the Indians having killed four within a day's march from
the house.
[Sidenote: Friday, 23rd.] The chimney of the last of the buildings being
completed this morning, the flag-staff erected, and all the men
assembled, we commemorated these events by the festivities usual on the
opening of a new establishment in this country. The first part of the
ceremony was to salute the flag; the men having drawn themselves up in
line, and the women and children, and all the Indians resident at the
fort, being disposed in groups by their side, a deputation came to
solicit the presence of the officers. When we appeared, we found our
guns ornamented with blue ribbons, and we were requested to advance and
fire at a piece of money which was fastened to the flag-staff. The men
then fired two volleys and gave three hearty cheers, after which Wilson
the piper struck up a lively tune, and placing himself at the head of
his companions, marched with them round to the entrance of the hall,
where they drank to His Majesty's health, and to the success of the
Expedition. In the evening the hall was opened for a dance, which was
attended by the whole party, dressed in their gayest attire. The dancing
was kept up with spirit to the music of the violin and bagpipes, until
daylight.
[Sidenote: Monday, 26th.] These entertainments over, Beaulieu and the
hunters were despatched to the chase, and they soon added two moose-deer
to our store.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 27th.] There had been much rain in the course of the
preceding week, and the temperature was generally mild, but a fall of
snow took place on the 27th. Some Dog-Ribs came to the fort on that day
with the produce of their autumnal hunt, which was very inconsiderable,
but they rendered good service to us by taking away with them several of
their relations, who had been subsisting on our bounty for some time.
After their departure there only remained one man of the tribe, who,
being afflicted with rheumatic fever, was retained under the care of Dr.
Richardson. Warm clothing was provided for him, and a comfortable
leathern lodge was erected for himself and family.
[Sidenote: October, 1st.] The month of October commenced with frost and
snow, and the party were now furnished with fur caps, leathern mittens
and trowsers, and the rest of their warm winter-clothing. This day we
completed the erection of the observatory, and adjusted an instrument to
the magnetic meridian, for the purpose of observing the variations of
the needle.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] Much snow fell on the night of the 7th, and
on the 11th the small lake was firmly frozen over, and the ground in the
same state. All the migratory birds being now gone, except a few ducks,
which still lingered in the open water of Bear Lake, we considered this
day to be the first of the winter. It was remarkably clear and fine, and
we hailed the commencement of this season with a degree of pleasure,
from its contrast with the wet unsettled weather which marks the close
of summer. A few clouds passing over the sun's disk, produced an
instantaneous depression of ten degrees of the mercury in a thermometer
exposed to the sun's rays. The atmospherical refraction was remarkably
strong at this time. We had repeated opportunities, in the course of the
winter, of observing it to be greatest in similar states of the
atmosphere.
The boats were now secured for the winter in a sheltered place, and
screened as much as possible from the effects of the wind and snow
drift, by a strong fence made of boughs and branches.
[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] We were surprised on the 14th by the arrival
of two Canadians from Fort Norman, with letters from Governor Simpson,
and other gentlemen in the southern districts, containing satisfactory
answers to the requisitions for stores that I had made in my passage
through the country. We were also pleased to learn that Thomas Matthews,
the carpenter, whom we had left at Cumberland House, on account of his
leg being broken, had reached Fort Norman, in the Company's canoe; and I
felt much indebted to Mr. James Keith, and Mr. Smith, Chief Factors,
for the care and tenderness with which they had conveyed him through the
country.
The season at which the ice begins to form, is the most favourable for
fishing in the lakes of this country, and we then procured from four to
five hundred daily. Those not required for immediate consumption, were
hung on a stage to freeze, in which state they keep until the following
spring. But we could not derive the full advantage from the season,
because the drift ice, making it unsafe to keep the nets set in Bear
Lake, they were taken up on the 18th. Near a month elapsed before they
could be set with safety under the ice; our first attempts resulting in
the loss of three nets. We procured, however, a few fish from the small
lake, during this interval, and the rest of our food was supplied from
the store of dried meat.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.] We were visited on the 20th by a storm of
snow, which continued, without intermission, for thirty-six hours.
Although it put an end to the skating, and the games on the ice, which
had been our evenings' amusement for the preceding week, yet the change
made every one glad, because the snow was now deep enough for winter
travelling. We had learned, some days before, that the hunters had
stored fifteen rein-deer in the woods, and on the 22nd four men were
despatched with sledges to bring them to the fort.
The first throw off of the dog-sledges for the season never fails to
attract general attention; accordingly the whole party was collected to
witness it on this occasion. They set off at full speed, and were soon
out of sight. From this time dog-sledges were used to drag the fuel,
which had been hitherto done by the men. We sent a party to cut down
timber, and saw it into planks, fit for the construction of another
boat.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.] On the 26th the thermometer first fell
below zero, but the month closed with a very calm, mild day. Mr. Kendall
and I were employed in measuring a geographical mile on the small lake,
preparatory to a series of observations on the velocity of sound. The
only ferine companions we now had were a few hardy quadrupeds and birds,
capable of enduring the winter. The variety of the former was confined
to wolves, foxes, martens, hares, mice, and a few rein-deer. Of the
feathered tribe, there were the raven and Canadian crow, some
snow-birds, wood-peckers, red-caps, crossbeaks, Canada, rock, and willow
partridges, and a few hawks and owls.
[Sidenote: November, 9th.] Having received information that the Hudson's
Bay Company intended sending their annual despatch from the Mackenzie
River to York Factory, by the close of this month, and the ice on Bear
Lake and the Mackenzie River being, on the 9th, sufficiently strong, we
forwarded a packet of letters to Fort Norman, and a dog-sledge to convey
Thomas Matthews to this place. On the 15th the nets were reset under the
ice, and we were relieved from the necessity of putting the party on
short allowance. We had the additional pleasure of learning that the
hunters had killed ten rein-deer. The men returned from Fort Norman on
the 18th, accompanied by Thomas Matthews, whose leg was yet too weak for
him to walk more than a short distance.
During the middle, and towards the close of November, parheliae were
frequent; the most brilliant appeared on the 27th; it continued as long
as the sun was above the horizon. The atmosphere was cloudless, and
apparently free from haze, except just about the sun, which seemed to
gleam through a fog. The surrounding circle was nearly complete, and
displayed the prismatic colours vividly; from the centre of the sun's
disk a beam of bright light extended upwards several degrees beyond the
circle. The inner radius of the circle measured 21 degrees 34 minutes,
and the outer 22 degrees 50 minutes. The wind blew fresh all the day
from E.N.E., and the temperature was 10 degrees. In the evening the moon
was encircled by two distinct halos; temperature 7 degrees.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.] This morning the principal leader of the
Dog-Ribs, and a large party of his tribe, came to the Fort. It is usual
for Indians, on the first visit to an establishment, to make their
approach in line, with much formality; but on this occasion our visitors
showed an unusual degree of caution. Their distrust had originated in a
very trifling occurrence at the close of our house-warming festivities
on the 23rd of September. Some of the Canadians having asked Mr. Dease
if our Highlandmen did not come from the same country with the rest of
the English party, were told that they were natives of the mountainous
lands, or _Montagnards_. This name unfortunately being used by the
voyagers to designate the Dog-Ribs, was considered by the Highlanders to
be a term of reproach when applied to themselves, and a scuffle ensued.
Harmony was soon restored by the officers sending the most noisy to bed,
and next morning the true meaning of the word Montagnard was explained
to the Highlandmen, and the party set about their usual occupations with
their wonted good feeling towards each other. Not so with an unlucky
Dog-Rib, who had been attracted to the scene by hearing the name
applied by the voyagers to his countrymen bandied about from one to the
other, and thrusting his head into the crowd had received a blow. This
at once confirmed all his fears, and he fled to spread a report amongst
his countrymen that the white people intended to destroy the Indians.
Although his report was not fully believed, yet it produced the feeling
of distrust which the Indians manifested on their approach to the house.
It was entirely removed by the explanation we gave. These Indians having
brought a quantity of furs for the Hudson's Bay Company, as well as
dried meat for ourselves, and I having understood from Mr. Dease that it
would be an accommodation to them if they were permitted to deposit
their furs at this place, instead of carrying them to Fort Norman, I
acceded to this suggestion, and directed Mr. Dease to advance from our
stores the goods required for the purchase of the furs, which were to be
returned when we should visit that fort in the spring.
An old man belonging to the Company's establishment at Fort Norman
arrived this day with his wife, to stay some time with us, because the
supply of provision had failed at that post. We felt much pleasure in
sharing our means with this aged couple, who were much reduced by their
late scanty fare.
The close of November was marked by a succession of strong east winds,
and a mildness of temperature, rare at this season. On the 30th the
thermometer rose from +18 degrees to 29 degrees above zero, on the
occurrence of a gale from the north.
[Sidenote: December, 1st.] The first of December being a cloudless day,
we endeavoured to observe the latitude at noon, but failed, owing to the
extraordinary atmospherical refraction. [Sidenote: Friday, 2nd.] At
midnight, on the 2nd, there was a shower of hail, so small that we could
hardly distinguish it from rain. Dr. Richardson thought he perceived
lightning. Temperature +22 degrees, calm. On the night of the 4th
another instance of a sudden increase of temperature from +7 degrees to
26 degrees was observed, on a north wind succeeding a calm.
The fishery having gradually declined for some days, our nets were
removed nearer to the entrance of Bear Lake River, where the current
continued to keep the water open for a considerable space. We then
procured a daily supply of fish sufficient for the rations of the
household, as well as the dogs, though our number was now increased by
the party from the more distant fishery, which had proved unproductive.
The allowance was seven of the herring salmon to a man per day, and two
to each dog.
The shortness of the days now precluding the Indians from hunting, many
came, according to their custom, to spear fish at the head of Bear Lake
River, and their numbers gradually increased. They were not, however,
successful, nor diligent, preferring to beg what they could from us, and
sending their women and children to subsist on the offal of the fish
used at the fort. To encourage them to greater exertion, I provided them
with nets, and other fishing materials, but their indolence led them to
make a very ungrateful return; for on several occasions they emptied our
nets in the night, and thus not only robbed us of what they took away,
but, by deranging the nets, deprived us of the whole of that day's
supply. We never could ascertain the perpetrators of these thefts. The
blame was invariably thrown on some aged and infirm men, who denied it.
Notwithstanding the straits to which they became reduced, they could not
be persuaded to go off to a more productive fishery, until we were
compelled to withhold all supplies, from fear of starving our own party.
These Indians showed more indolence, and less regard for truth and
honesty, than any other tribes with which we had dealings. Their
sufferings are often extreme, and some of them perish every year from
famine; although, from the abundance of fish in this country, but slight
exertion would be required to lay up, at the proper seasons, a stock for
the whole year.
The difficulty of procuring nourishment frequently induces the women of
this tribe to destroy their female children. Two pregnant women of the
party then at the fort, made known their intention of acting on this
inhuman custom, though Mr. Dease threatened them with our heaviest
displeasure if they put it into execution: we learned that, after they
left us, one actually did destroy her child; the infant of the other
woman proved to be a boy. Infanticide is mentioned by Hearne as a common
crime amongst the northern Indians, but this was the first instance that
came under our notice, and I understand it is now very rare amongst the
Chipewyan tribes;--an improvement in their moral character which may be
fairly attributed to the influence of the traders resident among them.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 18th.] On the 18th a party of sixteen Hare Indians,
two Copper Indians, and a Loucheux, arrived with sledges of dried
rein-deer meat and furs. While the house was in confusion from the
unpacking of their lading, a melancholy scene took place, which excited
the warmest sympathy. The wife of one of our Dog-Rib hunters brought her
only child, a female, for medical advice. As she entered the room it was
evident that the hand of death was upon it. In the absence of Dr.
Richardson, who happened to be out, all the remedies were applied that
were judged likely to be of service; and as soon as he returned, there
being yet a faint pulsation, other means were tried, but in vain. So
gentle was its last sigh, that the mother was not at first aware of its
death, and continued to press the child against her bosom. As soon,
however, as she perceived that life had fled, she cast herself on the
floor in agony, heightened by the consciousness of having delayed to
seek relief till too late, and by apprehension of the anger of her
husband, who was doatingly attached to the child. The Indians evinced
their participation in her affliction by silence, and a strong
expression of pity in their countenances. At the dawn of day the poor
creature, though almost exhausted by her ceaseless lamentation, carried
the body across the lake for interment.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] The 20th being a very stormy day, we were
surprised at the arrival of two voyagers from Fort Good Hope, bearers of
letters from Mr. C. Dease, conveying the gratifying intelligence that
the Loucheux had seen the Esquimaux since the autumn, and that the
latter had found the presents which had been left at their huts, and
would be delighted to welcome the return of the white people to the
Esquimaux lands next spring.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 22d.] Our constant occupations had made the time
pass so swiftly, that the shortest day came almost unexpectedly upon us.
The sun rose this morning, (the 22d,) at 10h 24m, thirteen minutes
earlier than its appearance was expected from calculation, owing to the
great refraction. Mr. Kendall and I measured its meridional altitude
from the lake with two instruments, the one bringing its upper limb to
the top of the land four miles distant, the elevation of which had been
ascertained to be eight minutes, and the other to its base, the
depression of which was two minutes. The mean of both these
observations, corrected for refraction by the tables in the Nautical
Almanack, gave a result of 65 degrees 11 minutes 56 seconds N., which
latitude exactly corresponds with the best observations made in the
preceding autumn. At 8h 30m P.M. a halo was observed, whose radius
measured 28 degrees 40 minutes from the moon; and at an equal altitude
with the latter body there were two paraselenae, which, as well as the
moon, were intersected by a luminous circle, having the zenith for its
centre, and a diameter of 94 degrees 15 minutes. The length of our
shortest day did not exceed five hours, but the long nights were
enlivened by most brilliant moon-light, and we had frequent and very
fine appearances of the Aurora Borealis. The latter phenomenon made some
of its grandest displays on the 26th of October, the 2d of November,
and the 7th of December. On all these occasions the disturbed motions of
the magnetic needle were very remarkable, and a most careful series of
observations convinced the party that they had a close connexion with
the direction of the beams of light of which the aurora was composed. My
observations also led me to conclude that the deviations of the needle
were, in a certain degree, connected with changes in the weather; for,
previous to a gale or a snow-storm, the deviations were always
considerable; but during the continuance of the gale, the needle almost
invariably remained stationary.
Preparations were made for the celebration of Christmas. The house was
replastered with mud, all the rooms whitewashed and repainted, and
Matthews displayed his taste by ornamenting a chandelier with cut paper,
and trinkets. On the evening of the 24th the Indian hunters' women and
children were invited to share in a game of snap-dragon, to them an
entire novelty. It would be as difficult to describe the delight which
the sport afforded them after they recovered their first surprise, as to
convey the full effect of the scene. When the candles were extinguished,
the blue flame of the burning spirits shone on the rude features of our
native companions, in whose countenances were pourtrayed the eager desire
of possessing the fruit, and the fear of the penalty. Christmas Day
falling on a Sunday, the party were regaled with the best fare our
stores could supply; and on the following evening a dance was given, at
which were present sixty persons, including the Indians, who sat as
spectators of the merry scene. Seldom, perhaps, in such a confined space
as our hall, or in the same number of persons, was there greater variety
of character, or greater confusion of tongues. The party consisted of
Englishmen, Highlanders, (who mostly conversed with each other in
Gaelic,) Canadians, Esquimaux, Chipewyans, Dog-Ribs, Hare Indians, Cree
women and children, mingled together in perfect harmony. The amusements
were varied by English, Gaelic, and French songs. After these holidays
were over, the Dog-Ribs at length yielded to the repeated solicitations
of Mr. Dease, and removed in a body to a distant part of the lake, where
they now confessed the fishery was more abundant. As the hunters were
drawing rations from our store, he despatched them in quest of deer,
furnishing them also with nets. After which there remained at the
establishment, only one infirm Indian and his wife.
[Sidenote: January, 1st.] January 1st, 1826. This morning the men called
in the hall to offer the congratulations of the season to the officers,
and we afterwards assembled to read divine service. On the evening of
the 2nd, similar festivities were held to those at Christmas, to welcome
the new year. The temperature was at -49 degrees on the 1st, which was
its lowest state during this winter. This severe weather was of short
continuance, for on the 3rd there was a storm of snow, and the
thermometer rose to -9 degrees.
[Sidenote: 4th.] Accompanied by Mr. Dease, and Fuller, the carpenter, I
walked several miles in search of birch-trees fit for the keel and
timbers of the new boat. We found some that would answer for the latter
purpose, but none for the keel; we, therefore, substituted pine. The
general depth of snow in the woody and sheltered parts was two feet.
[Sidenote: Monday, 16th.] On the 16th, by the return of the two men who
had been sent to Slave Lake, we had the happiness of receiving a packet
of letters, which left England in the preceding June. Beside the more
interesting private communications, our friends had been kind enough to
forward piles of newspapers, and several periodical publications. The
'Quarterly Review,' the 'Edinburgh Philosophical Journal,' and a series
of the 'Literary Gazette,' and the 'Mechanics' Magazine,' were spread
upon the table, and afforded us the most agreeable amusement, as well as
never-failing topics for conversation. Could any of our friends have
dropped in upon us, in the evening, they would have found us discussing
the events of the by-gone year, with all the earnestness and interest
which we could have shown had they been the occurrences of the day, and
depended upon our decision. This valuable packet had nigh been lost on
its way through the interior, owing to the treachery of an Indian. The
fellow had undertaken to guide the Canadian servants of the Hudson Bay
Company, who had it in charge, from York Factory to Cumberland House;
but supposing, from its being unusual to forward packets at that season,
that it must contain something of value, he seized an opportunity, when
the two men had gone a little way from the river side, to steal the
canoe, with its contents, and cross the river. There were no means of
pursuit, and the poor men, destitute of food, without a gun, or even the
means of making a fire, were obliged to march to the nearest
establishment, through a very rugged and thickly-wooded country. They
reached it after many days travelling, and much suffering, and as soon
as they arrived, Mr. Mackintosh, the chief of the department,
immediately sent off different parties in search of the culprit. They
did not find him, though they got possession of the packet, which was
torn open, and the letters scattered upon the ground. I need hardly
mention that I afterwards remunerated the Canadians for their
sufferings and good conduct on this occasion.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 22nd.] On the morning of the 22nd we perceived a gray
wolf crossing the lake, and Augustus and Ooligbuck went in pursuit. The
speed of the animal, however, so much outstripped theirs, that it cooly
halted to snap up an unfortunate fox which happened to cross its path,
and bore it off in triumph. The visits of this animal were repeated for
three successive days, and it at last became so bold as to steal fish,
on two occasions, from a sledge which the dogs were accustomed to draw
home from the nets, without a driver. The dogs were not touched, but
this was accounted for when the wolf was killed, and found to be a
female, as Mr. Dease informed us that at this season of the year the
female wolves never attack the dog.
[Sidenote: February.] The month of February was a very anxious period of
our winter's residence. The produce of the nets and fishing lines had
been gradually diminishing during January, until the supply did not
afford more than three or four of the small herrings per man; and none
could be furnished to the dogs. The stock of dried meat was expended,
and serious apprehensions were entertained of the party's suffering from
want of food. The fish too, from being out of season, afforded very
little nourishment, and frequent indisposition was the consequence with
us all. Three of the stoutest men with whom this diet particularly
disagreed, suffered very much from diarrhoea. It became, therefore,
necessary to draw upon the stores of provision which had been set apart
for the voyage along the sea-coast, and, on the 6th, we despatched three
sledges to Fort Norman, for some pemmican, arrow root, and portable
soup: they were likewise to bring any iron that could be procured from
that establishment fit for being converted into nails or fastenings for
the intended boat. This being the last opportunity of the season for
forwarding letters to the southern department, I wrote to Governor
Simpson and the council at York Factory, requesting that supplies of
provisions might be stored for the Expedition, on the route to Canada
and York Factory, and that the necessary means of conveyance might be
provided for its return in 1827. All these arrangements requiring to be
made a year in advance, I included the whole party in the estimate of
the numbers to be provided for, that there might be no want of
provision, if the western part of the Expedition should, from any cause,
be obliged to retrace its steps. By the same conveyance I sent an
account of our proceedings, with maps and drawings, to be forwarded to
the Colonial Office.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 4th.] On the 4th of this month, when all were
heartily tired of short allowance, a report was brought of the traces of
a moose deer having been seen about twelve miles from the fort. Had the
days been longer, and a crust formed upon the snow, the hunters would
have found no great difficulty in running down the animal, but our
principal hope lay in their getting within shot without "raising
it,"--the expression used when a deer is scared. Beaulieu being the most
expert moose-hunter, went out on this occasion, accompanied by two
others, Landre a Chipewyan lad, and a Dog-Rib hunter. When they arrived
on the deer's track, they found that it had been raised, probably by the
Indians who first discovered it; but anxious to procure meat for the
fort, they commenced the pursuit. From their knowledge of the habits of
the animal, and of the winding course it takes, they were enabled to
shorten the distance; but after running four successive days without
coming in sight, Beaulieu had the misfortune to fall over the stump of a
tree, and sprain his ankle; the other two hunters being previously tired
out. When this accident happened, they knew they were near the deer, and
that it would soon give in, because its footsteps were stained with
blood. Beaulieu, however, on account of his lameness, returned to the
house, and his companions came with him. During the chase they
bivouacked on the snow, and subsisted on a few ptarmigan which they
killed. Landre after a night's rest, again set out, and was successful
after two more day's running; not, however, without having nearly lost
his life, for the moose, on receiving a shot, made a rush at him,
striking furiously with his fore feet. He had just time to shelter
himself behind a tree, upon which the animal spent its efforts, until
his gun was again ready.
Landre's arrival with the joyful intelligence of his success, was hailed
as the commencement of a season of plenty. When the moose meat was
brought in, we had not an ounce of provision in store, and it was,
therefore, most acceptable; although, from the manner in which it was
hunted down, it proved exceedingly tough. [Sidenote: Friday, 10th.] In
the evening, to increase our satisfaction, an Indian arrived with the
information that the fish were plentiful at the station to which the
Dog-Ribs had removed, and likewise that the hunters belonging to the
fort had killed some rein-deer near their lodges. We immediately
equipped four men with nets and lines, and sent them back with the
Indian, giving them directions to report whether more persons could gain
subsistence there. Their report, a few days afterwards, being
favourable, four more men were despatched thither. They sent us some
tittameg, weighing from six to eight pounds, which were the more
acceptable, because none of that kind had been taken in our nets since
the lake had been frozen over. By the time the moose was finished, the
men came back from Fort Norman, with three bags of pemmican, which
enabled us to continue the daily issue of rations, though the fare was
still scanty.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 25th] On the 25th, Beaulieu, accompanied by two
men, went off in one direction, and the Dog-Rib hunters in another, in
search of deer. Both parties were successful. From the former we
received a summons, after four days' absence, to send sledges for meat,
but not so from the Dog-Ribs, for they, to compensate for their long
abstinence, consumed almost all the meat, and gorged themselves to such
a degree, that they were unable to move, and became quite ill. From this
period we had a sufficient supply of provision, because the fisheries
improved, and we received deer from time to time. The men who had been
indisposed gained strength, from the increased quantity, and amended
quality, of their food; and we had also the gratification of seeing the
dogs daily fatten, amidst the general plenty. The conduct of the men
during the season of scarcity was beyond all praise; and the following
anecdote is worthy of record, as displaying the excellent feeling of a
British seaman, and as speaking the sentiments of the whole party.
Talking with Robert Spinks as to the difference of his present food,
from that to which he had been accustomed on board ship, I said I was
glad the necessity was over of keeping them on short allowance. "Why,
sir," said he, "we never minded about the short allowance, but were
fearful of having to use the pemmican intended for next summer; we only
care about the next voyage, and shall all be glad when the spring comes,
that we may set off; besides, at the worst time, we could always spare a
fish for each of our dogs." During the period of short allowance, the
three dogs under the charge of this man were kept in better condition
than any of the others.
We now called the men home from the nearest fishery, and set their nets
near the Bear Lake River, but the men at the distant station with the
Indians were kept there, and occasionally supplied the fort with fine
tittameg and trout. The otters did considerable mischief to our nets at
this time; six of these animals were seen in one day.
Many parheliae were observed this month. On the 14th, at forty-five
minutes after nine A.M., the arched form of the clouds, and the
appearance of a collection of rays projected from the sun's disk in the
shape of a fan, strongly resembled the coruscations of the aurora. The
atmosphere was misty; temperature in the shade +8 degrees 5 minutes; and
when the thermometer with a blackened bulb was exposed to the sun's
rays, it rose to +43 degrees. The magnetic needle, at nine A.M., was
perceived to have made a greater deviation to the westward than usual at
that hour, and I imagine that the cause of this increase probably arose
from the atmosphere being then in a state of electricity, similar to
that in which it is when the aurora appears in hazy weather; on which
occasions we have observed that its coruscations have the strongest
effect in causing aberrations of the needle. A violent gale from the
north-west commenced on the 26th, and lasted, without intermission, for
thirty-six hours.
[Sidenote: March, 1st.] The early part of this month was marked by a
succession of gales from the N.W., with a few intervals of moderate
weather, in which the wind came from the east, and was attended by a
clearer atmosphere than usually accompanies easterly winds in the colder
months. We observed, with pleasure, on the 7th, that the sun had
sufficient power to soften the snow in exposed places, and to form
icicles from the roofs which had a southern aspect, but the return of
strong winds from the W.N.W. brought back severe weather. [Sidenote:
Saturday, 11th.] On the 11th there was a violent gust of wind, which, in
its passage over the lake, gathered up the snow in a column, similar to
that of a waterspout. Dr. Richardson made an excursion for the purpose
of examining the rocks to the north of the establishment. He returned
after two days, the snow being too deep for him to obtain specimens. The
description he gave of a view from an eminence nine miles behind the
fort, induced Lieutenant Back and me to visit the spot, and we were
amply repaid for the walk. The view embraced the mountains on the
borders of the Mackenzie to the west, a considerable portion of Bear
Lake River, with the mountains near its rapids, Clark's Hill to the
south, and the range of elevated land stretching to the east till they
were lost in the distance. To the N.E. there appeared several small
lakes, and the view was terminated by a portion of Bear Lake.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 21st.] The Chipewyan hunters who had been absent
since Christmas, returned to us with their families, and brought with
them a Dog-Rib girl, about twelve years old, who had been deserted by
her tribe. When they found her, she was in the last stage of weakness,
from famine, sitting by the expiring embers of a fire, and but for their
timely appearance, death must soon have ended her sufferings. They fed
and clothed her, and waited until she gained strength to accompany them.
The wretches who had abandoned the poor creature, were on their way to a
fishing station, which they knew to be very productive, and not above a
day's march distant. She was unable to keep the pace at which they chose
to proceed, and having no near relation but an aged aunt, who could not
assist her, they left her at an encampment without any food. The hunters
met this party of Indians about a month afterwards, when they were
living in abundance. The girl, by that time, had perfectly recovered her
strength, and they desired that she should be restored to them, but the
hunters firmly resisted their importunity, and one of them adopted her
as his own child. It is singular that she was the only female of the
tribe that could be called good-looking. Her Indian name was
Aton-larree, which the interpreter translated, Burnt-weed. Lieutenant
Back made a sketch of her, in the dress which the hunter's wife gave to
her on their first meeting. When the Indians came to the fort, I took
the first opportunity of their being assembled in the hall, to send for
the hunters and their wives, and to reward them by a substantial present
of clothing and ammunition. I also gave to them some neat steel
instruments, consisting of gimblets, and other useful articles, which
they were desired to preserve, and show to other Indians, as a testimony
of our approbation of their humanity. A present was also bestowed upon
the girl, and then the Dog-Ribs were addressed as to their unfeeling
conduct towards her. They listened quietly, and merely stated her
weakness as the cause. There is little doubt but that the transactions
of this day were canvassed afterwards, and it is to be hoped that the
knowledge of our sentiments gaining circulation, may induce a
discontinuance of their inhuman practices.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 22nd.] By the men who had conveyed our last packet
to Fort Simpson, we received intelligence that some Chipewyans had
brought information to the Athabasca and Slave Lakes, of their having
seen many indications of a party of white people on the sea coast
eastward of the Coppermine River. The report stated, that they had
found, in the preceding autumn, on the borders of a river near the
sea-coast, a sawpit, some saws, and axes, and a store of deer's meat.
There was snow on the ground, and the footsteps of the party appeared
recent. We concluded from these statements, that Captain Parry had laid
up his ships in the vicinity of Bathurst's Inlet, and sent
hunting-parties up the river to augment his stock of provision. I
therefore despatched two men with letters to Mr. M'Vicar, at Slave Lake,
containing a series of questions, that the matter might be thoroughly
investigated, and requested him to transmit the answers to the
Admiralty. I likewise begged of him immediately to procure a party of
Indians to go to the spot, and convey a letter from me to Captain Parry,
in order that they might either be employed as hunters for the ships, or
carry their letters to the nearest establishment for conveyance to
England. Had the information reached us sooner, so that a party could
have gone from Bear Lake to the point at which the ships were, and
returned before the men were wanted, I should have sent to ascertain the
fact. The idea of the ships being on the northern coast, the prospect of
their success, and the expectation of the eastern detatchment meeting
them in the summer, afforded enlivening topics of conversation for
several days, and on the day the intelligence came, we celebrated its
arrival with a bowl of punch. The health of Captain Parry, and his
party, as well as that of Captain Beechey, was drank with enthusiasm.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 23rd.] We obtained observations for the time, from
which it appeared that the chronometer, No. 1733, generously lent to the
Expedition by my friend the late Mr. Moore, had only varied its rate two
hundredths of a second, since the 3rd of November. I had worn it next my
skin, suspended round my neck, the whole time; and, consequently, it was
not exposed to much variation of temperature.
After the middle of this month the N.W. winds gave place to a succession
of easterly breezes; whenever these prevailed, we observed the
terrestrial refraction was much increased; double refraction of the land
was not unfrequent, and twice the mist arising from the open water,
appeared like a wall of ice. When the moon shone, halos, and
occasionally paraselenae, were visible; and towards the close of the
month the coruscations of the aurora were often very brilliant.
During this month I noticed that on several occasions the magnetic
needle oscillated when I approached it in a dress of waterproof cloth,
although it remained stationary when others of the party examined it in
their ordinary garments. The waterproof dress probably acted by exciting
electricity in the body, although this opinion is rather contradicted by
the fact of a fur cap, which had been rubbed by the hand until it
affected the gold leaf electrometer, producing no change in the needle,
and my approach to the electrometer not causing the gold-leaf to expand.
[Sidenote: April, 6th.] Having failed in an attempt to make charcoal for
the blacksmith's use at this place, we despatched William Duncan, and
the blacksmith, to make some at Fort Norman, where birch trees are
plentiful; and on the 6th of April we were glad to see them return with
the first load. The carpenters had already prepared the timbers and the
keel for the new boat, and we were waiting for the coals to get the
iron-work forward.
[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] On the 10th Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall
left the fort on snow-shoes, accompanied by an Indian guide, and a man
driving a dog-sledge with provisions, for the purpose of completing the
survey of Great Bear Lake, which Dr. Richardson had commenced the
preceding autumn. The day was remarkably warm; the blackened
thermometer, exposed to the sun, rose to +90; and we hailed with delight
a complete thaw. Cheered by the prospect, a spot was cleared of snow,
the keel of the boat laid down, and that there might be no delay, all
the sledges we could spare were despatched to fetch the remainder of the
charcoal from Fort Norman. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] On the following
day water was dripping from the roofs, and the flies were active within
the rooms. The continuance of mild weather for six days caused a rapid
decay of the snow, but no spots of land became visible. The men returned
with the charcoal, and from them we learned that the season was more
backward here than in the vicinity of Fort Norman. In the evening of the
17th, a telescope was put up in the meridian for finding the rates of
the chronometers by the transit of Arcturus. [Sidenote: Wednesday,
19th.] On the 19th, thirty Hare-Indians arrived with sledges, bringing
their winter's collection of furs for the Hudson Bay Company, and a
large supply of dried meat for us, which, with the stock already in
store, put us quite at ease respecting food until the season for our
departure. The party consisted mostly of young lads, who, very
good-naturedly, sang and danced for our amusement all the evening. They
also gave us specimens of the dances in use among the Loucheux, which
were more graceful than their own. The tune they sung to the
Medicine-dance of the Loucheux, struck me as being soft and pretty. The
ludicrous attitudes and grotesque figures of the dancers, as they
wheeled in a circle, shaking the knives and feathers which they had
between their fingers were happily sketched by Lieutenant Back.
As the fish had withdrawn from the open water at the commencement of the
fine weather, the nets were brought nearer to the house; but we did not
obtain more than thirty fish daily. This diminution, however, gave us no
concern, as we had plenty of meat. Shortly afterwards the trout began
again to take bait, and we caught several of large size. Easterly winds
prevailed this month, and they blew uninterruptedly from the 21st to the
last day. A storm, on the 28th and 29th, delayed the carpenters working
at the boat: the patches of ground which had for the last few days been
visible, were again covered with snow, and the general aspect was bleak
and wintry.
Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall returned on the 1st of May, and we were
furnished with the following particulars of their journey. Their course,
on leaving us, was first directed to the fishery in Mac Vicar's Bay,
which they reached on the fourth day, and from whence, taking with them
another sledge-load of provisions and an additional attendant, they
continued their journey to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay, the most
easterly part of the Lake. The reduction in their stock of provisions
now caused them to commence their return, and they reached the fort
after an absence of three weeks, during which, in very unfavourable
weather, they travelled about three hundred and eighty miles. Dr.
Richardson had sailed four hundred and eighty miles through the lake in
the autumn, and in the two excursions, five hundred miles of its shores
were delineated, and the positions of many points established by
astronomical observations. About twenty miles of the north shore of Mac
Tavish Bay are the only parts of the Bear Lake remaining unsurveyed.
[Sidenote: May, 1st.] The following brief description of Bear Lake is
extracted from Dr. Richardson's Journal:--
"Great Bear Lake is formed by the union of five arms or bays, which were
named after Messrs. Keith, Smith, Dease, Mac Tavish, and Mac Vicar, of
the Hudson's Bay Company. The principal feeding-stream, named Dease
River, rises in the Copper Mountains, and falls into the upper end of
Dease Bay, which is the most northern part of the lake, and Bear Lake
River, which conveys the waters of the lake to the Mackenzie, issues
from Keith Bay, the most southerly arm. Mac Tavish Bay is the most
easterly portion of the lake, and Smith Bay, which lies opposite to it,
runs to the westward. Mac Vicar Bay has a southerly direction nearly
parallel to Keith Bay. The length of the lake, from Dease River to Bear
Lake River, is about one hundred and seventy-five miles; and its
breadth, from the bottom of Smith Bay to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay,
is one hundred and fifty miles. A range of granite hills skirts the
bottom of Mac Tavish Bay. The Great Bear Mountain, at whose base some
bituminous shale cliffs are exposed, is about nine hundred feet high,
and separates Mac Vicar and Keith Bays; a similar mountain lies betwixt
Keith and Smith Bays. In Dease Bay, limestone and sandstone are the
prevailing rocks. The waters of the lake are very clear, and of unknown
depth; forty-fathoms of line were let down near the shore, in Mac Tavish
Bay, without reaching the bottom. There is a considerable quantity of
good wood, principally white spruce, in the vicinity of the lake; but
there is reason to believe that, before many years elapse, it will
become scarce, for it is very slow of growth, and the natives every year
set fire to it in various quarters, and thus destroy it for many miles.
The finest timber was observed on the west side of Great Bear Lake
Mountain. There are good fisheries in Dease Bay, and in various other
quarters of the lake; but the fish taken in Mac Vicar Bay are remarkably
fine and abundant at all seasons of the year. The principal advantage of
the site chosen for Fort Franklin, is its vicinity to the Bear Lake
River, and the great quantity of fish that can be procured at certain
seasons, although they are small and of inferior quality."
On the 5th of this month, the men being called in from the fishery in
Mac Vicar Bay, the whole party was once more assembled at the house,
anxiously looking forward to the arrival of spring. We hailed the
appearance of swans, on the following day, as a sure sign of its
approach. A goose was seen on the 7th, two ducks on the 8th, and on the
9th several gulls were observed in the open water near the Bear Lake
River. The snow, at this time, was rapidly diminishing from the surface
of the lake, and there were many spots of ground visible. We, therefore,
commenced the preparations for the summer's voyage. The seamen were
employed in repairing the coverings and sails of the boats, as well as
in refitting their rigging, and occupation was allotted to every person
in the establishment. These operations requiring the constant
superintendence of the officers, the observations of the magnetic-needle
were discontinued. After the middle of the month, we were visited by
occasional showers of rain, which removed the snow, and produced a
perceptible decay of the ice.
On the 23d, the ice broke away from the shore of the small lake, and
also of Bear Lake, in front of the house. Swans and geese were now daily
passing to the northward; many shots were fired at them, both by the
Indians and our own party, but only a few were killed. The geese were
principally of the kind known to naturalists by the name of Canada
geese, and denominated bustards by the voyagers. Numbers of white geese
also passed; we saw only two flocks of laughing-geese. The first swallow
came on the 16th, and, on the following day, many others arrived. A
variety of ducks, gulls, and many of the small aquatic birds, now
frequented the marshy borders of the little lake, which afforded
constant amusement to the sportsmen, and full occupation to Dr.
Richardson in preparing the skins for specimens.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 24th.] On the 24th, the musquitoes appeared,
feeble at first, but, after a few days, they became vigorous and
tormenting. The first flower, a tussilago, was gathered on the 27th.
Before the close of the month, several others were in bloom, of which
the most abundant was the white anemone (_anemone tenella_.) The
leaf-buds had not yet burst, though just ready to open.
The carpenters had now finished the new boat, which received the name of
the Reliance. It was constructed of fir, with birch timbers, after the
model of our largest boat, the Lion, but with a more full bow, and a
finer run abaft. Its length was about twenty-six feet, and breadth five
feet eight inches. It was fastened in the same manner as the other
boats, but with iron instead of copper, and to procure sufficient nails
we were obliged to cut up all the spare axes, trenches[2], and
ice-chisels. Being without tar, we substituted strips of waterproof
canvas, soaked in some caoutchouc varnish, which we had brought out, to
lay between the seams of the planks; and for paint, we made use of
resin, procured from the pine-trees, boiled and mixed with grease. The
other boats were afterwards put in complete repair. The Lion required
the most, in consequence of the accident in Bear Lake River. The defects
in the other two principally arose from their having been repaired at
Cumberland House with the elm that grows in its vicinity, and is very
spongy. We now substituted white spruce fir, which, when grown in these
high latitudes, is an excellent wood for boat-building. We were
surprised to find, that, notwithstanding the many heavy blows these
boats had received in their passage to this place, there was not a
timber that required to be changed.
In our bustle, we would gladly have dispensed with the presence of the
Dog-Ribs, who now visited us in great numbers, without bringing any
supplies. They continued hanging about the fort, and their daily
drumming and singing over the sick, the squalling of the children, and
bawling of the men and women, proved no small annoyance. We were
pleased, however, at perceiving that the ammunition we had given to them
in return for meat, had enabled them to provide themselves with
leathern tents. Their only shelter from the wind, snow, or rain, before
this season, had been a rude barricade of pine branches. Fortunately,
for our comfort, they were obliged to remove before the expiration of
the month to a distant fishery to procure provision.
[Sidenote: June, 1st.] The preparations for the voyage along the coast
being now in a state of forwardness, my attention was directed to the
providing for the return of Dr. Richardson's party to this establishment
in the following autumn, and to the securing means of support for all
the members of the Expedition at this place, in the event of the western
party being likewise compelled to return to it. Respecting the first
point, it was arranged that Beaulieu the interpreter, and four
Canadians, should quit Fort Franklin on the 6th of August, and proceed
direct to Dease River with a bateau, and wait there until the 20th of
September, when, if Dr. Richardson did not appear, they were to come
back to the fort in canoes, and to leave the boat, with provision and
other necessaries, for the use of the eastern detachment. All these
points were explained to Beaulieu, and he not only understood every part
of the arrangement, but seemed very desirous to perform the important
duty entrusted to him. I next drew up written instructions for the
guidance of Mr. Dease, during the absence of the Expedition, directing
his attention first to the equipment and despatch of Beaulieu on the 6th
of August, and then to the keeping the establishment well stored with
provision. He was aware of the probability that the western party would
meet his Majesty's ship Blossom, and go to Canton in her. But as
unforeseen circumstances might compel us to winter on the coast, I
considered it necessary to warn him against inferring, from our not
returning in the following autumn, that we had reached the Blossom. He
was, therefore, directed to keep Fort Franklin complete, as to
provision, until the spring of 1828. Dr. Richardson was likewise
instructed, before he left the fort in 1827, on his return to England,
to see that Mr. Dease fully understood my motives for giving these
orders, and that he was provided with the means of purchasing the
necessary provision from the Indians.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 7th.] The long reign of the east wind was at
length terminated by a fresh N.W. breeze, and the ice yet remaining on
the small lake soon disappeared, under the softening effects of this
wind. This lake had been frozen eight months, wanting three days. A
narrow channel being opened along the western border of Bear Lake, on
the 14th Dr. Richardson took advantage of it, and went in a small canoe
with two men to examine the mountains on the borders of Bear Lake River,
and to collect specimens of the plants that were now in flower,
intending to rejoin the party at Fort Norman. On the same day, in 1821,
the former Expedition left Fort Enterprize for the sea.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 15th.] The equipments of the boats being now
complete, they were launched on the small lake, and tried under oars and
sails. In the afternoon the men were appointed to their respective
stations, and furnished with the sky-blue waterproof uniforms, and
feathers, as well as with the warm clothing which had been provided for
the voyage. I acquainted them fully with the object of the Expedition,
and pointed out their various duties. They received these communications
with satisfaction, were delighted with the prospect of the voyage, and
expressed their readiness to commence it immediately. Fourteen men,
including Augustus, were appointed to accompany myself and Lieutenant
Back, in the Lion and Reliance, the two larger boats; and ten, including
Ooligbuck, to go with Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall, in the Dolphin and
Union. In order to make up the complement of fourteen for the western
party, I proposed to receive two volunteers from the Canadian voyagers;
and to the credit of Canadian enterprise, every man came forward. I
chose Francois Felix and Alexis Vivier, because they were the first who
offered their services, and this too without any stipulation as to
increase of wages.
Spare blankets, and every thing that could be useful for the voyage, or
as presents to the Esquimaux, which our stores could furnish, were
divided between the eastern and western parties, and put up into bales
of a size convenient for stowage. This interesting day was closed by the
consumption of a small quantity of rum, reserved for the occasion,
followed by a merry dance, in which all joined with great glee, in their
working dresses. On the following Sunday the officers and men assembled
at Divine service, dressed in their new uniforms; and in addition to the
ordinary service of the day, the special protection of Providence was
implored on the enterprise we were about to commence. The guns were
cleaned the next day, and stowed in the arm chests, which had been made
to fit the boats. Tuesday and Wednesday were set apart for the officers
and men to pack their own things. A strong western breeze occurred on
the 21st, which removed the ice from the front of the house and opened a
passage to the Bear Lake River. The men were sent with the boats and
stores to the river in the evening, and were heartily cheered on
quitting the beach. The officers remained to pack up the charts,
drawings, and other documents, which were to be left at the fort; and,
in the event of none of the officers returning, Mr. Dease was directed
to forward them to England. We quitted the house at half past ten, on
Thursday morning, leaving Cote, the fisherman, in charge, until Mr.
Dease should return from Fort Norman. This worthy old man, sharing the
enthusiasm that animated the whole party, would not allow us to depart
without giving his hearty, though solitary cheer, which we returned in
full chorus.
The position of Fort Franklin was determined to be in latitude 65
degrees 11 minutes 56 seconds N., longitude 123 degrees 12 minutes 44
seconds W.; variation of the compass 39 degrees 9 minutes E.; dip of the
needle 82 degrees 58 minutes 15 seconds.
FOOTNOTES:
[2] Used by the Indians to break up the beaver lodges.
CHAPTER III.
Voyage to the Sea--Part from the Eastern Detachment at Point
Separation--Reach the Mouth of the Mackenzie--Interview and Contest with
the Esquimaux--Detained by Ice--Meet friendly Esquimaux--Point Sabine.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 22nd.] On our arrival at the Bear Lake River, we
were mortified to find the ice drifting down in large masses, with such
rapidity as to render embarkation unsafe. The same cause detained us the
whole of the following day; and as we had brought no more provision from
the house than sufficient for an uninterrupted passage to Fort Norman,
we sent for a supply of fish. This was a very sultry day, the
thermometer in the shade being 71 degrees at noon, and 74 degrees at
three P.M.
The descent of the ice having ceased at eight in the morning of the
24th, we embarked. The heavy stores were put into a bateau, manned by
Canadians, who were experienced in the passage through rapids, and the
rest of the boats were ordered to follow in its wake, keeping at such a
distance from each other as to allow of any evolution that might be
necessary to avoid the stones. The boats struck several times, but
received no injury. At the fo
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