Trees and Shrubs for English Gardens
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Title: Trees and Shrubs for English Gardens
Author: E. T. Cook
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Language: English
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TREES AND SHRUBS FOR ENGLISH GARDENS
[Illustration: _THE CLUSTER PINE (Pinus Pinaster)._]
_THE "COUNTRY LIFE"
LIBRARY._
TREES & SHRUBS
FOR
ENGLISH GARDENS
BY
E. T. COOK.
SECOND EDITION.
[Illustration]
PUBLISHED BY
"COUNTRY LIFE" GEORGE NEWNES, LTD.
20, TAVISTOCK STREET, 7-12, SOUTHAMPTON STREET,
COVENT GARDEN, W.C. COVENT GARDEN, W.C.
1908.
PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION
It cannot be urged against this work that it travels along a path
already well worn, for the subject of trees and shrubs for English
gardens, though almost inexhaustible, has never been so fully treated
and illustrated as it deserves. The book may have many defects, but its
pages will show that an honest effort has been made to offer helpful and
instructive information to the many who wish to know more of the beauty
of trees and shrubs.
In writing this book, the labour of my spare hours for many months, I
have been greatly helped by Mr. Bean, the assistant-curator of the Royal
Gardens, Kew, whose deep knowledge of the subject has been willingly
imparted; and by Miss Jekyll, to whom I am indebted for many valuable
suggestions and notes. Among others to whom grateful thanks are tendered
are Mrs. Davidson, Mr. J. Clark, Mr. Dallimore, and Mr. S. W.
Fitzherbert.
Some of the chapters have already appeared in the _Garden_, with the
object of making known as widely as possible the importance of the most
beautiful trees and shrubs for English woodland and pleasure-grounds.
The illustrations will show how a shrub, so often stunted and mutilated
by unwise pruning, becomes beautiful when allowed to develop naturally.
The illustrations have their own teaching value, and in this matter
also I desire to thank many willing helpers, especially Miss Jekyll,
Miss Willmott, and Mr. Crump, of the Madresfield Court Gardens. Many of
them are from photographs taken in the Royal Gardens, Kew. Under the
present director (Sir William Thiselton-Dyer) much has been done in the
judicious grouping of plants. Here is a living place of instruction open
to all.
Those who desire to know more about trees and shrubs than it is possible
to give in this book should consult such famous works as Loudon's
"Arboretum Britannicum" (8 vols.), and "Encyclopædia of Trees and
Shrubs"; Professor Sargent's "Silva of North America," and "Forest Flora
of Japan"; "Manual of Coniferæ," by Messrs. James Veitch & Sons; "The
Pinetum," by George Gordon; The "Bamboo Garden," by Lord Redesdale; Sir
Joseph Hooker's "Rhododendrons of the Sikkim Himalaya"; and the
excellent Kew Hand-list of Trees and Shrubs. Much information can also
be gleaned from the volumes of _Garden and Forest_ (American), edited
by Professor Sargent, but not now in publication.
The nomenclature at Kew--that is, according to the _Index Kewensis_--is
that adopted in this book.
It is the wish and hope of the author, whose notes, taken during many
years, are embodied, that the book may do something to make English
gardens more beautiful and interesting, and that it may win many to see
the better ways of planting; also that it may be the means of bringing
forward the many trees and shrubs of rare charm that are generally
unknown or unheeded.
E. T. C.
_November 1902._
PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION
This edition has been thoroughly revised to render it as useful as
possible to those who desire a larger acquaintance with the many
beautiful trees and shrubs that are hardy in this country. I must tender
my heartiest thanks to Mr. William Atkinson (Messrs. Fisher, Son, &
Sibray) for his valuable help in preparing this edition. Many of the
illustrations represent trees and shrubs in the Royal Gardens, Kew,
which are not only beautiful in themselves, but are the centre of
scientific research.
E. T. C.
_March 1908._
CONTENTS
CHAP. PAGE
I. WANT OF VARIETY A BLEMISH 1
II. ORNAMENTAL PLANTING IN WOODLAND 6
III. GROUPING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 8
IV. HEATHY PATHS IN OUTER GARDEN SPACES 13
V. TREES AND SHRUBS IN POOR SOILS 17
VI. PRUNING FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS 19
VII. PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES AND SHRUBS 38
VIII. A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES AND SHRUBS 47
IX. TREES AND SHRUBS WITH BEAUTIFUL CATKINS 65
X. AUTUMN COLOURS 71
XI. TREES AND SHRUBS WITH FINE FRUITS 77
XII. WEEPING TREES AND THEIR USES 88
XIII. THE USE OF VARIEGATED TREES AND SHRUBS 93
XIV. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEA-COAST 101
XV. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WIND-SWEPT GARDENS 106
XVI. CONIFERS (INCLUDING PINES) IN ORNAMENTAL PLANTING 110
XVII. CARE OF OLD TREES 129
XVIII. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WATERSIDE 134
XIX. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR ROCK GARDEN 138
XX. REMOVAL OF LARGE TREES AND SHRUBS 151
XXI. YOUNG TREES AND SUNSTROKE 159
XXII. SHADE TREES FOR STREETS 163
XXIII. TREES AND SHRUBS IN SCOTLAND 166
XXIV. TENDER SHRUBS AND TREES IN THE SOUTH-WEST 187
XXV. TENDER WALL PLANTS IN THE SOUTH-WEST 208
XXVI. TREES AND SHRUBS IN IRELAND 215
XXVII. HARDY BAMBOOS 218
XXVIII. THE HEATHS 226
XXIX. NATIVE AND OTHER HARDY EVERGREENS 240
XXX. SHRUBS FOR SMALL AND TOWN GARDENS 251
XXXI. SHRUB AND FLOWER BORDERS 257
XXXII. SHRUBS UNDER TREES 260
XXXIII. HARDY SHRUBS IN THE GREENHOUSE 263
XXXIV. SHRUB GROUPS FOR WINTER AND SUMMER EFFECT 283
XXXV. THE USE OF HARDY CLIMBING SHRUBS 303
XXXVI. FLOWERING AND OTHER HEDGES 324
XXXVII. PLEACHED OR GREEN ALLEYS 334
XXXVIII. THE GARDEN ORCHARD 338
XXXIX. THE WORTHY USE OF ROSES 342
XL. PLANTING AND STAKING TREES 353
XLI. HARDY TREES AND SHRUBS, TABLES OF 357
INDEX 489
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
CLUSTER PINE (_Pinus Pinaster_) _Frontispiece_
GUELDER ROSE _To face page_ 2
MAGNOLIA STELLATA " " 3
ÆSCULUS PARVIFLORA (late July) " " 4
SLOE, DOUBLE-FLOWERED (_Prunus spinosa, fl. pl._) " " 5
IN THE WOODLAND AT KEW " " 6
WAYFARING TREE (_Viburnum Lantana_) " " 7
GROUPING OF SHRUB AND DAFFODIL " " 10
NATURAL GROUPING OF SHRUB IN ROUGH GROUND " " 11
SHRUB AND IRIS GROUPS BY WOODLAND " " 14
AZALEA GARDEN AT KEW " " 15
CEANOTHUS AZUREUS AT KEW " " 24
CEANOTHUS AZUREUS, MARIE SIMON " " 25
PEARL BUSH (_Exochorda grandiflora_) " " 26
HYDRANGEA PANICULATA GRANDIFLORA (Unpruned) " " 30
HYDRANGEA PANICULATA GRANDIFLORA " " 31
TULIP TREE AT RANELAGH (Winter) " " 46
LIME (Winter Beauty) " " 47
WITCH HAZEL (_Hamamelis japonica_, var. _zuccariniana_) " " 62
ULMUS ALATA " " 63
WILLOW, BABYLONIAN BY WATERSIDE " " 88
ASH, WEEPING " " 89
WEEPING ASPEN (_Populus tremula_, var. _pendula_) " " 90
WEEPING WYCH ELM " " 91
ELÆAGNUS PUNGENS " " 98
CORNUS MAS (var. _variegata_) " " 99
TAURIAN TAMARISK (_Tamarix tetrandra_) IN FLOWER " " 103
ASHES BY WATER EDGE " " 106
LOMBARDY POPLAR " " 107
CORSICAN PINE WALK " " 110
ARAUCARIA IMBRICATA (Chili Pine) AVENUE " " 111
MAIDENHAIR TREE AT FROGMORE " " 112
MAIDENHAIR TREE AT KEW " " 113
CORSICAN PINE (var. _tenuifolia_) " " 114
AVENUE OF ABIES (_nobilis glauca_) " " 118
CEDRUS ATLANTICA GLAUCA AVENUE " " 119
LIBOCEDRUS DECURRENS (Frogmore) " " 121
AVENUE OF YEW (Murthly) " " 124
ALDERS NEAR WATER " " 134
WHITE WILLOW (_Salix alba_) BY WATERSIDE " " 135
NATURAL TREE GROWTH BY WATER (Burnham Beeches) " " 136
WILLOWS BY WATERSIDE " " 137
CISTUSES AND ROSES IN ROCK GARDEN " " 140
DWARF SHRUBS IN ROCK GARDEN " " 141
ONONIS FRUTICOSA (Shrubby Rest-Harrow) AT EXETER " " 150
TREE IN COURSE OF REMOVAL " " 151
PLANE TREE (_Platanus orientalis_) " " 164
CYTISUS PRÆCOX " " 178
A VARIETY OF MAHALEB CHERRY (_Prunus Mahaleb_,
var. _chrysocarpa_) " " 179
GUELDER ROSE OR SNOWBALL TREE " " 184
WYCH ELMS BY HEDGEROW " " 185
EDWARDSIA GRANDIFLORA " " 198
FABIANA IMBRICATA " " 199
PINUS MONTEZUMÆ " " 204
PUERARIA THUNBERGIANA " " 212
YUCCAS, PAMPAS GRASS, AND BAMBOOS (Kew) " " 218
BAMBOO GARDEN AT KEW " " 219
ERICA CARNEA " " 232
A GROUPING OF HEATHS " " 233
WHITE SCOTCH HEATHER (_Erica cinerea alba_) " " 234
WHITE MEDITERRANEAN HEATH (_Erica mediterranea alba_) " " 235
WEEPING HOLLY " " 247
ARBUTUS MENZIESII " " 248
HIBISCUS SYRIACUS (_Althæa frutex_, var. _cæruleus_) " " 252
MOCK ORANGE (_Philadelphus coronarius_) " " 253
TALL EVERGREEN SHRUBS IN FLOWER BORDER " " 258
SPIRÆA CANESCENS " " 294
CLEMATIS MONTANA OVER ROUGH WALL " " 300
CLEMATIS MONTANA OVER ARCHWAY " " 301
CAMELLIA LEAF AND FRUIT (Outdoors) " " 316
DUTCH HONEYSUCKLE ON WALL " " 317
POLYGONUM BALDSCHUANICUM OVER FIR " " 318
PRUNUS TRILOBA ON SUNNY WALL " " 319
OLD WISTARIA AT HAMPTON COURT " " 322
WISTARIA RACEMES " " 323
GREAT BEECH HEDGE " " 330
HEDGE OF MAIDENS' BLUSH ROSE " " 331
NUT WALK " " 334
OLD APPLE WALK " " 335
OLD MULBERRY TREE, SYON " " 338
OLD MEDLAR TREE " " 339
ROSA MULTIFLORA " " 348
HYBRID ROSE UNA " " 349
STAKING TREES " " 354
HORSE CHESTNUT " " 358
CATALPA OR INDIAN BEAN TREE (_C. bignonioides_) " " 366
CISTUS VILLOSUS " " 370
CYTISUS CAPITATUS " " 373
MOONLIGHT BROOM (_Cytisus scoparius_, var. _pallidus_) " " 376
A HYBRID BROOM (_Cytisus kewensis_) " " 377
GARLAND FLOWER (_Daphne Cneorum_) " " 382
ERINACEA PUNGENS " " 383
MAY-FLOWER (_Epigæa repens_) " " 384
ESCALLONIA PHILIPPIANA " " 385
SPANISH FURZE (_Genista (Ulex) hispanica_) " " 388
SPANISH FURZE ON ROUGH SLOPE " " 389
GENISTA MONOSPERMA " " 390
SHOOT OF SNOWDROP TREE (_Halesia tetraptera_) " " 392
HYDRANGEAS " " 393
HYDRANGEA PETIOLARIS " " 394
KALMIA LATIFOLIA " " 395
YULAN (_Magnolia conspicua_) " " 402
YULAN AS A WALL SHRUB " " 403
MAGNOLIA CONSPICUA, var. _soulangeana_ (late Spring) " " 404
OLEARIA MACRODONTA " " 405
PRUNUS PERSICA " " 410
SPIRÆA ARGUTA " " 414
PRUNUS SERRULATA " " 416
PRUNUS PADUS, FL. PL. " " 417
PYRUS SINAICA " " 420
PYRUS SPECTABILIS " " 422
SIBERIAN CRAB (_Pyrus Malus baccata_) " " 423
PYRUS LOBATA " " 427
RHODODENDRON ARBOREUM (Hybrid) " " 428
RHODODENDRON HYBRID (Donegal) " " 429
RHODODENDRON PRÆCOX " " 432
RHODODENDRON SAPHO IN IRISH GARDEN (Donegal) " " 433
CALIFORNIAN POPPY (_Romneya Coulteri_) " " 449
NEILLIA (SPIRÆA) OPULIFOLIA " " 452
SPIRÆA LINDLEYANA " " 453
LILACS " " 456
STANDARD LILAC " " 457
VIBURNUM MACROCEPHALUM " " 464
YUCCA GLORIOSA IN A SURREY GARDEN " " 466
YUCCA FILAMENTOSA " " 467
PTEROCARYA CAUCASICA " " 480
CORK OAK (_Quercus Suber_) " " 481
EVERGREEN OAKS " " 482
DOVASTON YEW ON STEEP BANK " " 486
TREES AND SHRUBS
CHAPTER I
WANT OF VARIETY A BLEMISH
There is a sad want of variety amongst evergreen and deciduous shrubs in
the average English garden. Faith is placed in a few shrubs with a
reputation for robbing the soil of its goodness and making a monotonous
ugly green bank, neither pleasant to look at nor of any protective
value. As one who knows shrubs well and the way to group them says,
"Even the landscape gardeners, the men who have the making of
gardens--with, of course, notable exceptions--do not seem to know the
rich storehouse to draw from." Very true is this. We see evidence of it
every day. The mixed shrubbery is fondly clung to as a place for all
shrubs, whether flowering or otherwise, and the result is a thicket of
growths, a case indeed of a survival of the fittest. There are other
shrubs than Privet in this fair world of ours, and as for providing
shelter, the wind whistles through its bare stems and creates a draught
good for neither man, beast, nor plant. Of the cherry laurel again there
is far too much in gardens. Few other plants can stand against its
greedy, searching roots, and its vigorous branches and big leaves kill
other leaf-growth near them. Grown in the proper way, that is, as an
isolated shrub, with abundance of space to develop its graceful branches
and brilliant green leaves, the Cherry Laurel is a beautiful evergreen;
it is quite happy in shady, half-wooded places. But grown, as it is so
often, jammed up and smothering other things, or held in bounds by a
merciless and beauty-destroying knife, its presence has not been to the
advantage of English gardening.
When the planting season comes round, think of some of the good shrubs
not yet in the garden, and forget pontic Rhododendron, Laurel, Aucuba,
and Privet. By this is not meant rare shrubs, such as may only be had
from the few nurseries of the very highest rank or from those that make
rare shrubs a speciality, but good things that may be grown in any
garden and that appear in all good shrub catalogues.
[Illustration: _CHINESE GUELDER ROSE._]
Perhaps no beautiful and now well-known shrub is more neglected than
beautiful _Exochorda grandiflora_ (the Pearl Bush). Its near relatives,
the Spiræas, are in every shrubbery, but one may go through twenty and
not see Exochorda. Even of the Spiræas one does not half often see
enough of _S. Thunbergi_, a perfect milky way of little starry bloom in
April and a most shapely little bush, or the double-flowered _S.
prunifolia_, with its long wreaths of flower-like double thorn or minute
white roses and its autumn bravery of scarlet foliage. The hardy
Magnolias are not given the opportunity they deserve of making our
gardens lovely in earliest summer. Who that has seen _Magnolia stellata_
in its April dress of profuse white bloom and its summer and autumn
dignity of handsome though not large foliage, would endure to be without
it? or who would not desire to have the fragrant chalices of _M.
soulangeana_, with their outside staining of purple, and _M. conspicua_,
of purest white in the early months of March and April? And why does not
every garden hold one, at least, of the sweet _Chimonanthus_, offering,
as it does in February, an abundance of its little blooms of a fragrance
so rich and powerful that it can be scarcely matched throughout the
year?
[Illustration: _A GROUPING OF MAGNOLIA STELLATA._]
_Cassinia fulvida_, still known in nurseries by its older name of
Diplopappus, in winter wears its fullest dress of tiny gold-backed
leafage in long graceful sprays, that are borne in such profusion that
they only beg to be cut to accompany the rare flowers of winter that we
bring indoors to sweeten and enliven our rooms.
Of small-flowering trees none is lovelier than the Snowy Mespilus
(_Amelanchier_), and for a tree of somewhat larger size the good garden
form of the native Bird Cherry is beautiful in the early year. The North
American _Halesia_ (the Snowdrop Tree) should be in every garden, either
as a bush or tree, every branch hung in May with its full array of
pendent bloom of the size and general shape of Snowdrops, only of a warm
and almost creamy instead of a cold snow-white colour.
Few spring-flowering shrubs are more free and graceful than _Forsythia
suspensa_, and if it can be planted on a slight eminence and encouraged
to throw down its many-feet-long graceful sprays it then exhibits its
best garden use. The Chinese _Viburnum plicatum_ is another shrub well
known but unfairly neglected, flowering with the earliest Irises.
Grouped with the grand _Iris pallida dalmatica_ it is a thing never to
be forgotten.
[Illustration: _ÆSCULUS PARVIFLORA (late July)._]
_Æsculus (Pavia) parviflora_, blooming in July when flowering shrubs are
rare, is easily grown and strikingly handsome, and yet how rarely seen!
_Calycanthus floridus_, with its spice-scented blooms of low-toned
crimson, also a late summer flower, is a fine thing in a cool,
well-sheltered corner, where the sun cannot burn the flowers. The Rose
Acacia (_Robinia hispida_), trained on a wall or house, is as beautiful
as any Wistaria, and the quality of the low-toned rosy bloom of a much
rarer colour. It is quite hardy, but so brittle that it needs close and
careful wall training or other support. To name a few others in the same
kind of category, but rather less hardy, the Sweet Bay is the noblest of
evergreen bushes or small trees; the Tamarisk, with its grey plumes of
foliage and summer flower-plumes of tenderest pink, is a delightful
plant in our southern counties, doing especially well near the sea.
_Clethra alnifolia_, against a wall or in the open, is a mass of flower
in late summer, and the best of the _Hibiscus syriacus_, or _Althæa
frutex_, the shrubbery representatives of Mallows and Hollyhocks, are
autumn flowers of the best class. A bushy plant of half-woody
character that may well be classed among shrubs, and that was beloved of
our grandmothers, is _Leycesteria formosa_, a delightful thing in the
later autumn. The large-fruited Euonymus (Spindle Tree) is another good
thing too little grown.
[Illustration: _DOUBLE-FLOWERED SLOE OR BLACKTHORN._]
For a peaty garden there are many delightful plants in the neglected
though easy-to-be-had list. One of these is the beautiful and highly
fragrant _Azalea occidentalis_, all the better that the flowers and
leaves come together and that it is later than the Ghent Azaleas. Then
there are the two sweet-scented North American Bog Myrtles, _Myrica
cerifera_ and _Comptonia asplenifolia_, the charming little _Leiophyllum
buxifolium_, of neatest bushy form, and the _Ledum palustre_, whose
bruised leaves are of delightful aromatic fragrance; _Vaccinium
pennsylvanicum_, pretty in leaf and flower and blazing scarlet in
autumn, and _Gaultheria Shallon_, a most important sub-shrub, revelling
in moist peat or any cool sandy soil.
These examples by no means exhaust the list of desirable shrubs that may
be found for the slightest seeking. This brief recital of their names
and qualities is only meant as a reminder that all these good things are
close at hand, while many more are only waiting to be asked for.
CHAPTER II
ORNAMENTAL PLANTING IN WOODLAND
Where woodland adjoins garden ground, and the one passes into the other
by an almost imperceptible gradation, a desire is often felt to let the
garden influence penetrate some way into the wood by the planting within
the wood of some shrubs or trees of distinctly ornamental character.
Such a desire very naturally arises--it is wild gardening with the
things of larger growth; but, like all forms of wild gardening (which of
all branches of gardening is the most difficult to do rightly, and needs
the greatest amount of knowledge), the wishes of the planter must be
tempered with extreme precaution and restraint. It does not do to plant
in the wild garden things of well-known garden character. This is merely
to spoil the wood, which, in many cases, is already so good that any
addition would be a tasteless intrusion of something irrelevant and
unsuitable.
[Illustration: _IN THE WOODLAND AT KEW, SHOWING TREE AND SHRUB BY GRASSY
WAY._]
Still, there are certain wooded places where a judicious planting would
be a gain, and there are a certain number of trees and shrubs which
those who have a fair knowledge of their ways, and a true sympathy with
the nature of woodland, recognise as suitable for this kind of planting.
They will be found in these classes: Native growths that are absent
or unusual in the district, such as the Spindle Tree (_Euonymus_), White
Beam, Service Tree, White and Black Thorn, Wild Cherry, Bird Cherry,
Wild Guelder Rose (_Viburnum Opulus_), and _V. Lantana_, Honeysuckle,
Wild Roses, Juniper, and _Daphne Laureola_.
[Illustration: _WAYFARING TREE (Viburnum Lantana); A NATIVE SHRUB ON
CHALK._]
Then, among cultivated trees and shrubs, those that are nearly related
to our wild kinds, including some that are found in foreign woodlands
that have about the same latitude and climate as our own. Among these
will be Quinces and Medlars, many kinds of ornamental Cratægus, Scarlet
Oaks, various Elders and Crabs, and the grand _Pyrus americana_, so like
our native Mountain Ash, but on a much larger scale.
A very careful planting with trees and shrubs of some of these and,
perhaps, other allied kinds, may give additional beauty and interest to
woodland. Differences of soil will, of course, be carefully considered,
for if a piece of woodland were on chalky soil, a totally different
selection should be made from one that would be right for a soil that
was poor and sandy.
In moist, sandy, or, still better, peaty ground, especially where there
is a growth of Birches and Scotch Firs, and not many other kinds of
trees, a plantation of Rhododendrons may have a fine effect. But in this
case it is better to use the common _R. ponticum_ only, as a mixture of
differently coloured kinds is sure to give a misplaced-garden look, or
an impression as if a bit of garden ground had missed its way and got
lost in the wood.
CHAPTER III
GROUPING OF TREES AND SHRUBS
If this subject were considered with only a reasonable amount of
thought, and the practice of it controlled by good taste, there is
nothing that would do more for the beauty of our gardens or grounds.
Nothing can so effectually destroy good effect as the usual senseless
mixture of deciduous and evergreen shrubs that, alas! is so commonly
seen in gardens--a mixture of one each of a quantity of perhaps
excellent things planted about three feet apart. There would be nothing
to be said against this if it were the deliberate intention of any
individual, for, as a garden is for the owner's happiness, it is
indisputably his right to take his pleasure in it as he will, and if he
says, "I have only space for a hundred plants, and I wish them to be all
different," that is for him to decide. But when the mixture is made from
pure ignorance or helplessness it is then that advice may be of use, and
that the assurance may be given that there are better ways that are just
as easy at the beginning, and that with every year will be growing on
towards some definite scheme of beauty, instead of merely growing up
into a foolish tangle of horticultural imbecility.
If the intending planter has no knowledge it is well worth his while to
take advice at the beginning, not to plant at random and to feel, a few
years later, first doubt, and then regret, and then, as knowledge grows,
to have to face the fact that it is all wrong and that much precious
time has been lost.
How to group is a large question, depending on all the conditions of the
place under consideration. Whether a group is to be of tall or short
growing shrubs or trees, whether it is to be of three or three hundred,
and so on. The knowledge that can answer is the knowledge of gardening
of the better kind. The whole thing should be done carefully on paper
beforehand, or there will again be repented the error of huddled single
plants. The groups will have to be well shaped and well sized and well
related to each other and all that is near, or they may be merely a
series of senseless blocks, not intelligently formed groups at all.
Then, in proper relation to the groups, single plants can be used with
the best possible effect, as, for instance, a snowy Mespilus or a Cherry
or a _Pyrus floribunda_ against a dark massing of Yew or Holly; or a
_Forsythia suspensa_ casting out its long flowering branches from among
bushes of _Berberis_. Then the fewer individuals will have their full
value, while the larger masses will have dignity even when in leaf only,
and their own special beauty at the time when they are in flower or
fruit. For some flowering and fruiting bushes are best grouped, while a
few are best seen standing alone, and it is only knowledge of good
gardening that can guide the designer in his decisions on these points.
Still it does not follow that a shrub or flowering tree cannot be used
both for groups and single use, for such an one as the Forsythia just
mentioned is also of charming effect in its own groups, with the
red-tinted _Berberis_ or the quiet-coloured Savins, or whatever be the
lower growing bushy mass that is chosen to accompany it. Every one can
see the great gain of such arrangements when they are made, but to learn
to make them, and even to perceive what are the plants to group
together, and why, that is the outcome of the education of the garden
artist.
In the Royal Gardens, Kew, the best of plants may be seen and, to a
considerable degree, the best ways of using them in gardens.
[Illustration: _GROUPING OF SHRUB AND DAFFODIL._]
The one-thing-at-a-time planting is always a safe guide, but as the
planter gains a firmer grasp of his subject, so he may exercise more
freedom in its application. Nearly every garden, shrubbery, and
ornamental tree plantation is spoilt or greatly marred by too great a
mixture of incongruous growths. Nothing wants more careful
consideration. On the ground in the open air, and sitting at home
quietly thinking, the question should be carefully thought out. The very
worst thing to do is to take a nursery catalogue and make out from it a
list of supposed wants. The right thing is to make a plan of the ground,
to scale, if possible, though a rougher one may serve, and mark it all
down in good time beforehand, not to wait until the last moment and then
mark it; and not to send the list to the nursery till the ground is
well forward for planting, so that the moment the plants come they may
go to their places.
[Illustration: _NATURAL GROUPING OF SHRUB IN ROUGH GROUND._]
All this planning and thinking should be done in the summer, so that the
list may go to the nursery in September, which will enable the
nurseryman to supply the trees in the earliest and best of the planting
season.
How good it would be to plant a whole hill-side on chalky soil with
grand groupings of Yew or Box, or with these intergrouped, and how easy
afterwards to run among these groupings of lesser shrubs; or to plant
light land with Scotch Fir and Holly, Thorn and Juniper (just these few
things grouped and intergrouped); or wastes of sandhills near the sea
within our milder shores with Sea Buckthorn and Tamarisk, and Monterey
Cypress (_Cupressus macrocarpa_), and long drifts of the handsome Blue
Lyme Grass.
A mile of sandy littoral might be transformed with these few things, and
no others than its own wild growths, into a region of delight, where
noble tree form of rapid growth, tender colour of plume-like branch and
bloom and brilliant berry, and waving blue grassy ribbons, equalling in
value any of the lesser Bamboos, would show a lesson of simple planting
such as is most to be desired but is rarely to be seen.
The other and commoner way is nothing but a muddle from beginning to
end. A van-load of shrubs arrives from the nursery--one of each or
perhaps not more than six of any kind. No plan is prepared, and the
trees and shrubs are planted in the usual weary mixture, without thought
or design. Generally there are three times too many for the space. It is
a cruel waste and misuse of good things.
CHAPTER IV
HEATHY PATHS IN OUTER GARDEN SPACES
The subject of heathy paths comes within the scope of this book. We are
not thinking of grass or gravel paths, but those in pleasure-grounds
that are beyond the province of the trimly-kept garden, and yet have to
be somewhat tamed from the mere narrow track such as serves for the
gamekeeper on his rounds. Paths of this kind admit of varied treatment.
The nature of the place and the requirements of those who use the paths
will determine their general nature, and settle whether they are to be
of turf or of something that must be dry in all weathers. But grass and
gravel are not the only alternatives. One kind of path not often seen,
but always pleasant, and at one time of year distinctly beautiful, can
be made of the Common Heather (_Calluna vulgaris_). We know of such a
path, 12 feet wide and some hundreds of feet long, carpeted with this
native Heath, mown once a year, and feeling like a thick pile carpet to
the feet; grey-green in summer, bronze-coloured in late autumn, and in
the second and third weeks of August thickly set with short sprays of
the low-toned pink of the Heather bloom. It is not so dry as a gravel
path, but a good deal drier than grass, and has a pleasant feeling of
elasticity that is absent in common turf.
Many are the pleasure-grounds in the south of England and Scotland where
the soil is sandy and, perhaps, peaty. Any such can have these pleasant
heathy paths. We have even seen them on a poor sandy clay, scarcely good
enough to call loam, in Sussex; for Calluna, unlike the other Heaths,
will grow willingly in clay. In the case quoted the plant was wild in
the place.
In a Fir wood, the bare earth carpeted with needles always makes a
suitable path, and one that is always dry; the only thing to correct is
to fill up any places where the bare roots rise above the path level.
For in these informal paths, where we want to look about and at the
trees, there should be no danger of being tripped up. The path, of
whatever nature, should be wide enough for two persons--5 feet to 6 feet
is ample; but it should have quite a different character from the garden
path, in that its edges are not defined or straightened.
[Illustration: _SHRUB AND IRIS GROUPS BY WOODLAND._]
One may often see in the outskirts of an old garden a dense wood that
once was only a growth of shrubbery size. The walk was originally
bordered by a Box edging, and there may have been a strip of flowers
between it and the shrubs. Here and there one may still see a yard or
two of straggling Box nearly 2 feet high. Of course, this edging should
have been removed as soon as the place became a wood, for after a
certain time its original use as a formal edging to a trim plantation
ceased to exist.
Nothing is pleasanter in woodland than broad, grassy ways, well enough
levelled to insure safety to an unheeding walker. In early spring,
before the grass has grown any height, here is the place where Daffodils
can best be seen and enjoyed, some in the clear grass and some running
back in wide drifts into any side opening of the wood. If the grass is
cut in June, when the Daffodil foliage is ripe, and again early in
September, these two mowings will suffice for the year.
[Illustration: _AZALEA GARDEN AT KEW (early Summer)._]
In many woody places where shade is fairly thick, if there is any grass
it will probably be full of moss. No path-carpet is more beautiful than
a mossy one; indeed, where grass walks from the garden pass into
woodland, the mossy character so sympathetic to the wood should be
treasured, and the moss should not be scratched out with iron rakes.
Often in the lawn proper a mixture of moss and grass is desirable,
though one has been taught that all moss is hateful. In such places,
though it may be well to check it by raking out every four or five
years, it should by no means be destroyed, for in the lawn spaces
adjoining trees or woodland the moss is right and harmonious.
There are paths for the garden and paths for the wood. A mistaken zeal
that would insist on the trimness of the straight-edged garden walk in
woodland or wild is just as much misplaced as if by slothful oversight
an accumulation of dead leaves or other débris of natural decay were
permitted to remain in the region of formal terrace or parterre.
Heath paths should be made by either planting or sowing. The common ling
(_Calluna vulgaris_) makes the best turf. If the ground is sown it
should be of nearly pure sandy peat, or weeds would be troublesome. If
the path is to be made by planting, it should be done with two-year-old
seedlings--nothing larger--planted about 6 inches apart. The path when
grown should be mown with a machine once a year, in autumn after the
blooming time of the heath. There must be no grass.
CHAPTER V
TREES AND SHRUBS IN POOR SOILS
As there is vegetation to suit nearly all natural conditions, so those
who find they have to undertake planting in poor, dry, hungry sands and
gravels will find that there are plenty of trees and shrubs that can be
used, though the choice is necessarily a more restricted one than they
might make on better land. The very fact of the fewer number of
available trees and shrubs may even be a benefit in disguise, as by
obliging the planter to be more restricted in his choice the planting
scheme will be all the more harmonious.
As to trees, Holly, Thorn, Juniper, Birch, Scotch Fir, and Mountain Ash
are found wild on the poorest soils, and will even grow in almost pure
sand. Oaks, though they never grow to the dimensions of the Oak of loamy
woodlands, are abundant on poor soils, where they have a character of
their own that is full of pictorial value. The lovely _Amelanchier_,
daintiest of small trees, revels in sandy woods, as does also the Bird
Cherry, another good native tree, while the Wild Cherry becomes a forest
tree of large size and of loveliest bloom. Evergreen or _Holm Oak_ and
_Arbutus_ are excellent in the south of England, enjoying the warmth and
winter dryness of light soils.
Garden shrubs in general can be grown, though not so luxuriantly as on
better soils, but some classes are especially successful on poor land
such as _Genista virgata_. There are the Cistuses and Heaths, with
Lavender and Rosemary, in the drier parts, and in the wetter places
_Kalmias_, _Andromedas_, _Rhododendrons_, _Ledums_, _Pernettyas_, and
_Vacciniums_, with the Candleberry Gale and the native Bog Myrtle, also
Broom and Gorse, especially the Double Gorse. These, which are usually
classed as peat shrubs, will succeed in any sandy soil with the addition
of leaf-mould, and are among the most interesting and beautiful of our
garden shrubs.
Those who garden on poor and dry soils should remember that though their
ground has drawbacks it has also some compensations. Such soils do not
dry in cracks and open fissures in hot weather, and do not present a
surface of soapy slides in wet; they can be worked at all times of the
year, except in hard frost; they are easy to hoe and keep clean of weeds
and are pleasant and easy to work. They correct the tendency of strong
soils to the making of a quantity of coarse rank growth, and they
encourage the production of a quantity of flowers of good colour.
CHAPTER VI
PRUNING FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS
The art of pruning properly is one that is acquired by considerable
practice and observation. The first is necessary that the actual work
may be well and cleanly done, and it is only by observing the manner and
times of flowering of the different trees and shrubs which go to
constitute a well-kept pleasure-ground that the proper time to prune can
be thoroughly understood. The manner of pruning varies considerably,
some pinning their faith to a slanting cut towards a bud; some
preferring a straight cut; while others again are content with simply
slashing off the useless wood in the quickest possible manner. The
former is the best method, as it does not present a surface for the
lodgment of water, an important point with those shrubs that are of a
pithy nature in the centre of the wood, as the presence of water will
quickly cause the stems to rot and render the plant unsightly, even if
it escapes serious injury. All stems that are an inch or more in
diameter should be tarred over to keep out the wet, which either rots
them directly or injures them indirectly by making a moist, congenial
home for the various fungoid diseases to which so many of our exotic
trees and shrubs are liable.
Many shrubs which have been in one place for some years, and which have
become stunted or poorly flowered, are often given a new lease of life
by a hard pruning in the winter, cutting away all the old wood entirely,
and shortening the remainder. With a good feeding at the same time, they
will throw up strong young shoots, full of vigour, which will bear fine
and well-coloured flowers. Of course, a season of blooming will be lost
by doing this, but it will be amply compensated for in after years by a
healthy plant in place of a decrepit and unsightly one. The list
appended includes practically every flowering tree and shrub _hardy_ in
this country, with the proper time of pruning it. Those not specified
flower on the old wood.
When shrubs that by nature flower freely and are rightly placed with
regard to soil and position refuse to bloom, root pruning will sometimes
effect an alteration.
[Illustration: _CEANOTHUS AZUREUS AT KEW._]
ABELIA.--This genus is barely hardy, and, in most localities, is usually
pruned sufficiently or too much by frost. A moderate thinning of the
shoots in spring is sufficient.
ACANTHOPANAX.--There are three species of this genus hardy in this
country, and of these _A. ricinifolium_ requires no pruning beyond the
cutting away of side-shoots to a single stem, as it attains the
dimensions of a tree in Japan, its native country. _A. sessiliflorum_
and _A. spinosum_ are low-growing shrubs, and require an occasional
thinning out, which is best done in late summer to allow the remainder
to thoroughly ripen before winter.
[Illustration: _CEANOTHUS AZUREUS, VAR. MARIE SIMON._]
ACTINIDIA.--A climbing genus, easily grown in warm, sheltered
localities. They require very little pruning, but should be watched in
spring when growth has commenced, or the twining shoots will get into a
tangled and unsightly mass. Any growth not required should be cut away
in winter.
ÆSCULUS (Horse-Chestnut).--The common representative of this requires
little or no pruning, but the other species are benefited by a thinning
out of misplaced and useless branches in late summer to allow light and
air to the centre of the tree. This is especially important to all the
Æsculus in a young state. _Æsculus parviflora_ should have a good
thinning if the branches or suckers become at all thick, cutting all
growths not required clean away from the base.
AKEBIA.--"_Akebia quinata_ has flowered here, on an east wall, profusely
for the last seventeen years, under the following pruning treatment:
Cover the space allotted with the strongest shoots, and when new growth
pushes from the eyes or spurs in the spring, do not regulate it, but
summer-prune away all superfluous growth before it gets entangled. It is
from 'spurs' that the flowers are produced, and the more these are kept
clear, the more matured they become, and flower correspondingly."--E. M.
in _The Garden_.
AMELANCHIER.--These should be pruned after the flowers are past, the
removal of badly-placed and weakly shoots being all that is required. If
the plants are becoming too large, they can be shortened back at the
same time.
AMORPHA.--If flowers are desired of _A. fruticosa_ it should be kept
thinned out, and not be cut back; but the flowers are not showy, and it
is usually kept cut down every winter for the sake of its foliage. _A.
canescens_ should be cut down each spring to within two or three eyes of
the old wood, as it flowers best on the young growth.
ANDROMEDA.--The only recognised species of this genus is _A. polifolia_,
which requires no pruning.
ARALIA.--These should be kept to a single stem until they have attained
a height of 6 to 8 feet, after which they may be allowed to branch, or
be still kept to a single stem, as may be desired.
ARBUTUS.--An evergreen genus which requires no pruning.
ARISTOLOCHIA.--A genus of climbers which succeed best if the shoots are
not allowed to become too thick. The weakest should be cut away in
winter.
ARTEMISIA.--This genus is best known by its common representative, the
Southernwood, but this and the other Artemisias should be cut down
annually in a young state. When older, an occasional thinning out of the
shoots in winter is sufficient.
BACCHARIS.--Of this, _B. halimifolia_ flowers on the young wood and
should be cut back annually, while _B. patagonica_ should not be pruned
at all.
BERBERIS.--Properly the Berberis requires no pruning, but the
stronger-growing species, such as _B. aristata_, _B. Lycium_, _B.
virescens_, _B. vulgaris_, &c., require an occasional thinning to keep
them within bounds.
BERCHEMIA.--A climbing genus which requires no pruning.
BRUCKENTHALIA.--A dwarf-growing Ericaceous genus, the seed-pods of which
should be removed as soon as the flowers are past, or the plants will be
seriously weakened.
BRYANTHUS.--This should be treated the same as the last, which it
somewhat resembles.
BUDDLEIA.--Of these, _B. variabilis_, _B. japonica_, and _B. intermedia_
flower on the young wood and require cutting back every winter to within
two or three eyes of the old wood; _B. globosa_ need not be pruned at
all, except in a young state to keep it bushy; and _B. paniculata_ only
requires thinning out if it becomes too thick, which is not a very
common occurrence.
CALLUNA (the Ling).--This and its numerous varieties should have the old
flowers cut off as soon as they are past, and any long or straggling
growth cut back at the same time.
CALOPHACA.--The solitary representative of this genus is rather inclined
to become straggly if growing at all freely. When this is the case, the
plant is benefited by the cutting back of the longer shoots in winter.
CALYCANTHUS.--These require an occasional thinning of the branches, and
any long shoots may be shortened with advantage.
CAMELLIA.--These, which should be grown outdoors much more than they
are, should be cut down if they get unhealthy or unshapely, which should
be done in April. Otherwise no pruning is required.
CARAGANA.--Cut away all the straggling or misplaced branches.
CARMICHÆLIA.--Requires no pruning.
CASSANDRA.--See CALLUNA.
CASSINIA.--These are grown more for their foliage than for their
flowers, and should be cut down in the winter or early spring. This can
be done annually or biennially according to whether the plants are
growing strongly or not.
CASSIOPE.--See CALLUNA.
CATALPA.--This genus contains some of our handsomest flowering trees,
all of which require careful pruning after the flowers are past,
thinning out the weakly wood, and shortening any long branches.
CEANOTHUS.--Of these, _C. americanus_, _C. azureus_, _C. integerrimus_,
and the garden hybrids, such as "Gloire de Versailles," "Marie Simon,"
"Ceres," &c., flower on the young wood, and should be cut back in
spring, allowing only sufficient shoots to remain to form a
well-balanced plant, and shortening them back to within two or three
eyes of the old wood. The remaining species flower on the old wood, and
merely require a shortening back of the stronger shoots and a thinning
out of the weakly ones after the flowers are past.
CELASTRUS.--A climbing genus of strong and vigorous habit with showy
fruits. They only require sufficient pruning in winter to keep them
within bounds.
CERCIS.--Requires no pruning, except such as may be necessary to make
well-shaped plants, which should be done after flowering.
CHIMONANTHUS.--The shoots of this should be shortened back after
flowering, and if on a wall they should be spurred in.
CHIONANTHUS.--See CERCIS.
CHOISYA TERNATA.--This only needs thinning after the flowers are over
and old wood removed.
CISTUS.--Those which are hardy of this genus should be cut back each
spring while in a young state, but when they have attained a flowering
size no pruning is required. The cutting back of young plants induces a
bushy habit, and also keeps them from weakening themselves by blooming
and seeding.
CLEMATIS.--The garden forms of this genus are divided into two sections,
of which _C. Jackmani_, _C. lanuginosa_, _C. Viticella_, and _C.
aromatica (C. cærulea odorata)_ are the types of those which flower on
the young wood, and which require cutting back close to the old wood in
the winter; while _C. florida_, _C. patens_, and _C. montana_ are the
types of those which flower on the ripened wood of the previous year,
and merely require a thinning out of weakly or unnecessary growth. Of
species other than those mentioned above, _C. Flammula_, _C.
paniculata_, and _C. Vitalba_ flower on the young wood; and the
remaining species are either herbaceous or flower on the old wood.
CLERODENDRON TRICHOTOMUM.--Thin in spring.
CLETHRA.--These practically require no pruning, but long shoots may be
shortened and weakly ones cut away with advantage.
COLUTEA.--These make better plants and flower later if they are cut back
every winter. _C. istria_ (a rare species) should not be cut down if
flowers are desired.
CORNUS.--The strong-growing shrubby Cornus, such as _C. alba_, _C.
Amomum_, _C. Baileyi_, _C. pubescens_, and _C. stolonifera_ require an
annual thinning out, and those with brightly-coloured stems should be
cut down every spring for their effect during the following winter. The
remaining Cornus require little or no pruning.
COTONEASTER.--The large-growing species should be pruned in late summer,
but only sufficiently to keep them within bounds; _C. Simonsii_ requires
cutting down annually while young to make it bushy, and the
dwarf-growing kinds are best left alone.
CRATÆGUS.--Keep the heads well thinned out to allow light and air to the
centre of the tree. This should be done in late summer.
CYTISUS.--These require very little pruning, with the exception of _C.
nigricans_ and _C. capitatus_, which flower on the young wood, and
should be cut back annually. The other species and varieties make better
plants if they are cut down each year while in a small state, but they
should be left alone when they have attained flowering size.
DABOECIA (the Irish Heath).--Cut away all old flower stems in early
winter.
DAPHNE.--Requires no pruning.
DESMODIUM.--These flower on the young wood, and should be cut nearly to
the ground-line every spring.
DEUTZIA.--The old wood should be kept cut out of these, but no
shortening of young shoots should be attempted.
ELÆAGNUS.--These require an annual overhauling to keep them in good
condition. This should be done in late summer, when the plants should be
well thinned out, and all useless growth cut clean away.
ERICA.--See CALLUNA.
ESCALLONIA.--These are usually cut back by frost; but if they escape,
_E. rubra_ and _E. punctata_ should have their long growths shortened
back in spring, while the other hardy species need not be touched. _E.
macrantha_ simply needs thinning. All the smaller growths in the centre
should be removed. _E. philippiana_ does not like hard cutting back, but
the old stumps must be cut out to make room for flowering wood.
[Illustration: _PEARL BUSH (Exochorda grandiflora) SHOWING ITS NATURAL
BEAUTY._]
EXOCHORDA.--These usually require no pruning, but if the plants are
getting too large or unshapely, they should be cut back immediately
after flowering.
FATSIA (_Aralia Sieboldii_).--This is usually cut by frost, but it
stands a cutting back in spring, when new growth is soon made which will
flower late in the following autumn.
FOTHERGILLA.--Requires no pruning.
GARRYA ELLIPTICA.--This always flowers on the previous year's wood. Need
only be thinned to ripen the new growth.
GENISTA.--_G. tinctoria_ flowers on the young wood, and should be cut
back every spring. The other species of Genista should not be pruned,
except to keep them in shape.
HALESIA.--These are small trees or large shrubs, and should not be
shortened back, but are improved if the growths are kept thinned out,
which should be done after the flowers are past.
HALIMODENDRON.--Requires no pruning.
HAMAMELIS.--Thin out regularly, as they are very apt to get thick and
make weakly growths.
HEDYSARUM MULTIJUGUM.--This flowers on the young wood, and should be cut
back lightly each spring. The growths can also be pegged down to improve
the plant, which is apt to get straggling.
HELIANTHEMUM.--Cut away all dead flowers and seed-pods after blooming.
HIBISCUS.--Thin out in winter, but only shorten the longest shoots.
[Illustration: _HYDRANGEA PANICULATA GRANDIFLORA (unpruned plant)._]
HYDRANGEA.--These flower best on young wood, and should be cut down in
winter. _H. paniculata grandiflora_ should _always_ be cut back to
within two inches of the old wood.
[Illustration: _HYDRANGEA PANICULATA AND VAR. GRANDIFLORA._]
HYPERICUM.--These should be cut back fairly hard in early spring, as
they all flower on the young growth.
INDIGOFERA.--Cut down every spring, as they flower on the young wood.
ITEA.--Keep the growths thinned and cut away all old wood.
JAMESIA.--This should be treated as the preceding.
JASMINUM.--_J. fruticans_ and _J. humile_ are shrubs which should be
thinned regularly; and _J. nudiflorum_ and _J. officinale_ are climbers,
which should be spurred in after flowering.
KALMIA.--Remove seed-pods as soon as the flowers are past.
KERRIA.--Cut away the old wood to encourage the young growths, which
yield the best flowers.
LABURNUM.--These should be thinned after flowering, cutting away the old
or weakly wood, and shortening any long or straggling shoots.
LAVANDULA.--Cut away all flower-spikes after they are past.
LEDUM.--Remove seed-pods after flowering.
LESPEDEZA.--See DESMODIUM, which it much resembles.
LEUCOTHOË.--_L. axillaris_ and _L. Catesbæi_ flower much better if the
old growths are removed and strong young shoots encouraged. The rest of
the genus require no pruning.
LEYCESTERIA.--Thin out old growths every spring.
LIGUSTRUM.--_L. ovalifolium_ and its golden variety are all the better
for being cut down each winter while in a young state. The remainder
merely require an occasional thinning.
LIRIODENDRON.--Requires no pruning.
LONICERA.--The shrubby Loniceras are nearly all inclined to become very
thick and full of weakly shoots if not well looked after. A thinning out
should take place after flowering is past. The climbing Honeysuckles
should only be pruned sufficiently to keep them within bounds.
LYCIUM.--These should be served the same as the shrubby Loniceras, but
the operation should be performed in autumn or winter, as they flower
practically all the summer.
LYONIA.--Requires no pruning.
MAGNOLIA.--Generally speaking, the Magnolias should not be pruned, but
cut away useless or decaying wood. Every wound, however small, on a
Magnolia should be tarred over immediately.
MICROGLOSSA.--The solitary shrubby representative of this is _M.
albescens_, which should be cut down in winter, as it flowers best on
the young wood.
MYRICA.--An occasional thinning is sufficient for this genus.
MYRICARIA.--Flowering on the young wood; this should be cut back every
spring.
NEILLIA.--Thin out every year after flowering is past, cutting back the
old wood to strong young shoots.
NEVIUSIA.--This requires the same pruning as Neillia.
NOTOSPARTIUM.--Requires no pruning.
NUTTALLIA.--The single species of this flowers in February, and is
improved by a good thinning out of the old wood when blooming is past.
OLEARIA.--Requires no pruning.
ONONIS.--_O. rotundifolia_ should be cut down every winter, as it
flowers on the young wood. The remaining species flower on the older
wood, and need not be touched.
OSMANTHUS.--These should not be pruned unless a particular shape is
desired, when the plants may be clipped with a pair of shears in spring.
OXYCOCCUS.--This is a small creeping genus allied to Vaccinium, and
requires no pruning.
OXYDENDRON.--Remove seed-pods.
PALIURUS.--This attains the dimensions of a small tree, and should be
kept trimmed up for that purpose.
PARROTIA.--Thin out in spring after the flowers are past.
PAULOWNIA.--Keep to a single stem to a height of about 8 feet, and then
allow it to branch. If used for sub-tropical bedding, it should be cut
down to the ground every winter.
PERAPHYLLUM.--The solitary hardy species of this should not be pruned or
disturbed in any way if it can be avoided.
PERIPLOCA.--A climbing genus which should be thinned out in winter, and
only shortened back if necessary.
PERNETTYA.--These should not be pruned at any time.
PHILADELPHUS.--These should be thinned after flowering, and the old wood
cut back to strong young shoots. This is especially important with _P.
microphyllus_, _P. coronarius_, and _P. Lemoinei_ and its varieties.
PHILLYRÆA DECORA (_Vilmoriniana_).--This well-known shrub needs no
pruning.
PHOTINIA.--Requires no pruning.
PIERIS.--Remove seed-pods.
POTENTILLA.--Thin out after flowering, and shorten any old wood back to
strong young breaks.
PRUNUS.--When young, all the members of this genus that are grafted or
budded are improved by being cut back each spring until they have
attained a fair size and shape. More especially is this the case with
the Almonds, double-flowered Peaches, and the various flowering
Cherries. When older, they need only be thinned and the flowering Plums
and Cherries kept spurred in, but not too hard. _Prunus japonica_, _P.
nana_, and _P. triloba_ should be cut down to strong young breaks after
flowering, the resulting wood bearing better flowers than the old wood.
If any of these three latter are grown on a wall they should be spurred
back hard after blooming.
PTELEA.--When young, trim these to form small trees, and do not allow
them to develop into ungainly bushes. When older, they require an
occasional thinning. _P. trifoliata var. aurea_, a golden form which is
not grown so much as it deserves to be, should be cut back annually or
biennially, the young wood being better coloured and bearing larger
leaves than the old.
PYRUS.--The wild Pears should be spurred in the same manner as adopted
for fruiting Pears, though not quite so hard. The wild Crab-apples, such
as _P. baccata_, _P. floribunda_, _P. spectabilis_, &c., should be cut
back every spring until they have formed well-balanced heads. Afterwards
an annual thinning and a shortening of the longest shoots after
flowering is sufficient. The remaining sections of Pyrus merely require
an occasional thinning. _P. japonica_ should be kept spurred in, whether
growing on a wall or in the open, and in the latter case should not be
allowed to become a mass of weakly shoots.
RHAMNUS.--These should be thinned out if becoming too thick, but, as a
rule, they require very little pruning.
RHODODENDRON (including AZALEA).--Remove all seed-pods immediately the
flowers are over, and any plants that are in a sickly condition should
be cut down at the same time. By doing this a season or two of flower is
lost, but it is practically the only means of bringing a weakly plant
back to health again.
RHODOTYPUS.--Cut away old wood, and encourage the strongest of the young
growths.
RHUS.--Keep these well thinned out, and destroy all suckers that appear,
unless wanted for stocks. Gloves should always be worn when handling any
of the Rhus, as the sap of _all_ is poisonous to a certain extent. _R.
Toxicodendron_ is _very poisonous_. This should never be forgotten. If
used for sub-tropical gardens cut down to within two eyes of the base.
Select the strongest eye and rub the other off. Always use gloves in
handling this shrub. It should never be planted where children have
access to it.
RIBES.--All the Ribes are improved by being cut down annually while in a
young state, but when older, a yearly thinning out of the old wood is
sufficient.
ROBINIA.--This is a genus that requires very little pruning when the
members of it have attained a fair size, an occasional thinning being
all that is necessary. In a young state they require well staking, and
the longest shoots should be shortened back, as many of them are
top-heavy when young.
ROSA.--Although the various garden Roses come under this heading, yet
they are a class apart, and are better dealt with by specialists. The
species of Rosa do not require any shortening of their shoots, which
should always be left at full length, but all of them should have an
annual thinning out of the old wood, either cutting it right away or
back to a young shoot. Some of the species are very prone to throw up
suckers from underground sometimes to a considerable distance from the
plant, and these should always be dug out and got rid of; merely cutting
them off only producing two evils in the place of one.
RUBUS.--This genus includes the Blackberry and Raspberry, and in a
modified form the treatment accorded to them for fruiting is the best to
employ with the ornamental Rubi, that is, all old wood that has flowered
should be cut away and strong young canes encouraged. But while in the
cultivation of the Raspberry only a few young canes are allowed to grow,
in the ornamental species practically every young growth should be
utilised. The double-flowered Rubi should have some of the old wood
left, as they do not make so much young growth as the single ones do.
SANTOLINA.--This is a dwarf-growing genus, the old flower-heads of which
should be cut away as soon as they are past, and any long or straggling
growths cut back at the same time.
SAMBUCUS.--The elders require very little pruning as a rule, but the
various cut-leaved, golden, or variegated forms are improved by being
cut back annually. This will prevent them flowering, but as good foliage
is required the loss of the bloom is a matter of little consequence.
SKIMMIA.--Requires no pruning.
SMILAX.--The hardy species of this genus do not require any pruning if
they have room to ramble. If space is restricted, thin out and shorten
in autumn.
SOPHORA.--These should be kept thinned when they have attained flowering
size; in a young state they should be kept to a single stem and induced
to form well-shaped trees.
SPARTIUM.--This should be cut back in a small state, but when older it
requires no pruning whatever.
SPIRÆA.--Though all the Spiræas will flower on the old wood, the
following are better for being cut back in winter to form young
flowering shoots, viz., _S. betulifolia_, _S. Douglasi_, _S. Foxii_, _S.
japonica_, _S. Margaritæ_, _S. salicifolia_, _S. semperflorens_, _S.
tomentosa_, and many of their varieties and hybrids. The remaining
Spiræas should be kept thinned out, and if any are making strong young
breaks from the lower part of the plant they can be cut back to them
after flowering.
STACHYURUS.--This should be thinned out after flowering.
STAPHYLEA.--_S. pinnata_ should be kept thinned in late summer; _S.
colchica_ and _S. Coulombieri_ require very little pruning, but if too
tall or unshapely should be cut back immediately after flowering.
STUARTIA } Require no pruning.
STYRAX }
SUÆDA.--Cut back occasionally to keep it from getting ragged.
SYMPHORICARPUS.--Keep these well thinned out, which should be done in
late summer.
SYRINGA (Lilac).--these should be kept free of suckers, especially the
finer-named kinds, which are usually worked on stocks of the Common
Lilac. In addition, disbudding may be practised with advantage in the
spring, removing the majority of the blind shoots and any flowering or
leading shoots that are misplaced or not required. This should be done
twice or thrice at intervals of ten days or a fortnight.
TAMARIX.--Cut back in a young state, but when older they should not be
pruned at all.
VACCINIUM.--The removal of any old or rough wood is sufficient for
these.
VIBURNUM.--All the Viburnums grow thickly, and require an annual
thinning.
VITIS.--The methods practised in growing Vines for fruit suit the
ornamental species as well. If space is restricted they should be grown
on the spur system, and if there is plenty of room then the extension
system may be employed.
WISTARIA.--These should be kept spurred in, with the exception of the
leading shoots, which merely require a shortening in early spring
according to the strength of the plant.
XANTHOCERAS.--Requires no pruning.
ZENOBIA.--These require no pruning as a rule, but occasionally a hard
cutting back will induce healthy growth in place of a weakly one.
THINNING.--It will be gathered from these notes that thinning out only
is needful in many cases. If judicious thinning were more practised
English gardens would be more beautiful. It promotes internal growth and
a wealth of flowers.
Pruning is frequently carelessly and ignorantly done, and this applies
especially to forest trees. There are certain tools that may be used for
the purpose. Under ordinary circumstances only a few are necessary, and
these should always be of the best quality, sharp, clean, and always
kept ready for use. Take the pruning knife for example. If this is not
sharp it is impossible to make the necessary _clean_ cut. The surface
will be jagged and rough, and probably promote disease. Some prefer
_secateurs_, and while admitting their value for pruning purposes, a
good sharp knife is preferable; it is not so heavy, and does not tire
the hand. There are several of these implements in the market, but the
best that has come under my notice is the "improved double cutting"; it
is easy to work and cuts clean. For standard trees use the "Standard
Tree Pruner."
CHAPTER VII
PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES AND SHRUBS
If we were to take many books about trees and shrubs or general
gardening as a guide, one might be led to think that only one way of
increasing a tree or shrub existed, and that by grafting; but, as we
have pointed out elsewhere, it is a mischievous practice when
indiscriminately applied. It is _not_ contended by this that grafting
and budding are utterly needless, as in many instances these methods may
be rightly adopted, but the four natural ways of increase are by layers,
seeds, suckers, and cuttings. Many trees and shrubs are much better when
grafted upon other stocks.
Of these, practise seed-raising whenever possible; but if seeds cannot
be procured, then adopt other ways, and the man is wise who tries to
keep a plant on its own roots. Neither budding nor grafting should be
resorted to, unless other means fail absolutely. When standard trees
cannot be got true from seed, budding or grafting must be practised, and
the evils of these methods of propagation are not so pronounced in such
cases as with dwarf plants. With the former, suckers, or growths from
the stock, are easily seen as soon as they appear, but with dwarf
plants a perfect forest of suckers may seriously weaken the plant before
they are noticed.
SEEDS.--These can be sown at almost any time, but the spring is the
best, as those which germinate quickly have time to form strong young
plants before the following winter. Some take two years to come up, and
should be left in the ground. This refers more to seeds sown outdoors,
and few hardy trees and shrubs require heat to assist germination. When
sown in the open the beds should be made on a fairly rich, moist piece
of ground, protected from cold winds, but fully exposed to the sun.
After the seeds are sown, cover them with light tiffany shading, fir
branches, or heather, but the first is best, as it is easily removed to
attend to the bed. Conifers especially should be sown in beds, whether
indoors or outdoors, as pot-culture results in the roots taking the
shape of the pot, and never afterwards recovering from their cramped
condition. It must be remembered, however, that varieties cannot be
depended upon to come true from seed, though by careful selection for a
few years many varieties will almost reproduce the characteristics of
the parents. Hybrids, such as _Berberis stenophylla_, _Hypericum
moserianum_, and many others, also do not come true from seed, so that
cuttings, layers, or division of the old plants must be the practice
chosen.
SUCKERS.--Plants which throw up suckers from the base, or below the
ground-line, are easily propagated by detaching these suckers in winter
with a portion of root. They will grow away readily, and soon form good
trees or shrubs as the case may be.
CUTTINGS.--Nearly all the hardy shrubs, and a small proportion of hardy
trees also, can be propagated by cuttings taken at certain times of the
year. Summer cuttings are taken during the last two weeks of May and
throughout June, the actual time depending on the season, and consist of
the young shoots that have grown to a length of 3 to 6 inches. These
should be pulled off with a "heel," and inserted in sandy soil in a
close frame, with brisk bottom heat. The cuttings should be taken on a
dull day, or early in the morning, and kept cool and moist until they
are in the frame. A cutting that has flagged is useless, as it never
revives. Deciduous flowering shrubs are usually propagated by summer
cuttings, which generally root well in a fortnight or less. Autumn
cuttings are taken during August and September, and are made from the
partially ripened growths of the current year, inserted in sandy soil,
in a close frame, without bottom heat. Winter cuttings are made from
thoroughly ripened wood at any time between October and March, and are
laid in rather thickly in rows outdoors, and only about an inch or less
is left above the soil. The majority of our best flowering shrubs are
easily increased in this way.
LAYERS.--Excellent trees and shrubs can be got by layers, and they may
be laid down at any time of the year; they will be ready for removal in
about eighteen months or two years.
BUDDING.--This is done about August, and the same rules apply to trees
and shrubs as to Roses, &c.
GRAFTING.--This takes place outdoors from March to May, at the earlier
time for deciduous trees and shrubs, and later on for evergreens. The
actual time depends upon the season.
Where seed is not expressly mentioned below, it must be understood that
this is the natural, and in many cases the best, way to propagate.
The following trees can only be raised from seed to do any good
afterwards, though a few of them will throw up suckers, which can be
taken off and replanted: _Æsculus_ (Chestnut), _Ailantus_, _Alnus_
(Alder), _Arbutus_, _Betula_ (Birch), _Carpinus_ (Hornbeam), _Carya_
(Hickory), _Castanea_ (Sweet Chestnut), _Celtis_ (Nettle tree), _Fagus_
(Beech), _Fraxinus_ (Ash), _Gleditschia_ (Honey Locust), _Juglans_
(Walnut), _Laburnum_, _Liquidambar_, _Morus_ (Mulberry), _Prunus_,
_Pyrus_, _Quercus_ (Oak), _Sophora_, _Ulmus_ (Elm), and _Zelkova_. The
varieties of any species of the above, and, in fact, of nearly all hardy
trees, must be budded or grafted on the species they are forms of, but
an exotic species should never be worked on the native representative of
the genus--_e.g._ _Æsculus flava_ should not be budded on the Common
Horse Chestnut, as the latter is far too strong a stock for the
smaller-growing Æsculus.
_Acer_ (Maple) and _Tilia_ (Lime or Linden) can be raised from seeds or
by layering, the Lime especially being largely propagated from layers,
which soon form strong young trees. The varieties of Maple are best
worked on stocks of the species they belong to.
_Cratægus_ (Thorn), _Catalpa_, and _Robinia_ (Locust tree), can be
raised from suckers or root-cuttings, if seeds cannot be got. Any of
their varieties are usually budded or grafted on stocks of the parent
species.
_Ilex_ (Holly), _Magnolia_, _Populus_ (Poplar), _Platanus_ (Plane), and
_Salix_ (Willow). The Holly is easily raised from cuttings and layers,
the second roots readily when layered, and the latter three are
propagated in large quantities by winter cuttings. The White Poplar
(_Populus alba_) is an exception, as this can only be increased by
root-cuttings.
INCREASING HARDY SHRUBS
The best of our hardy flowering shrubs are grouped under seven natural
orders, and a knowledge of the order to which a plant belongs is in most
cases a guide to its propagation, as the majority of the species
contained in an order are, as a rule, increased by the same methods.
BERBERIDEÆ.--This contains _Akebia_ and _Berberis_, which are propagated
by seeds, cuttings, or layers. _Berberis stenophylla_ and _B. Neuberti_
do not come true from seed, so that one or both of the other methods
mentioned above must be adopted.
LEGUMINOSÆ.--In this order such genera as _Cytisus_ (Broom), _Genista_
(Rock Broom), _Spartium_ (Spanish Broom), _Ononis_, _Indigofera_,
_Colutea_ (Bladder Senna), _Caragana_ (Siberian Pea tree), and _Cercis_
(Judas tree) should be raised from seed, which is the quickest and best
method of propagation. Cuttings of certain forms of _Cytisus_ and
_Genista_ will root readily, but the plants will sometimes die off just
as they have attained flowering size. _Ulex_ (Furze, Whin, or Gorse) is
propagated by seeds or cuttings, and _Wistarias_ by seeds or by
layering.
ROSACEÆ.--This includes _Prunus_, the shrubby forms of which can, in the
majority of cases, be increased by cuttings or layers; _Spiræa_ and
_Kerria_ (Jews' Mallow), cuttings of which root readily at almost any
time of the year; _Exochorda_ (Pearl Bush), must be raised from seed to
do any good; _Rubus_ (Brambles), some of which can be propagated by
suckers, and the remainder by pegging the points of the shoots down to
form young plants; _Rosa_ (Rose), the species of which should be
increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers, though seeds will not always
come true, as Roses become hybridised very readily; and _Cotoneaster_,
which are increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers.
SAXIFRAGEÆ.--In this order _Hydrangea_, _Deutzia_, _Philadelphus_ (Mock
Orange), _Escallonia_, and _Ribes_ (Flowering Currant) are included. All
are easily propagated by cuttings taken in almost any season of the
year. With the exception of Hydrangea, which should be struck under
glass, all the members of this order root readily outdoors in the
winter.
CAPRIFOLIACEÆ.--This order contains such genera as _Sambucus_ (Elder),
_Viburnum_, _Lonicera_ (Honeysuckle), _Symphoricarpus_ (Snowberry tree),
_Abelia_, _Leycesteria_, and _Diervilla_ (Weigela). All are easily
propagated by cuttings or by layering. The cuttings can be taken at
almost any time of the year, and root quickly, the young plants
attaining a good size by the end of the second year.
ERICACEÆ.--This order includes all the so-called American plants, such
as _Pernettya_, _Gaultheria_, _Leucothoë_, _Andromeda_, _Pieris_,
_Zenobia_, _Erica_ (Heath), _Calluna_ (Common Heather, Ling), _Kalmia_,
_Ledum_, _Clethra_, and _Rhododendron_ (including _Azalea_). These can
all be increased by seeds, layering, and, in addition, the first two by
division of the old plants. _Erica_ and _Calluna_ can also be increased
by cuttings. Seedlings, of course, make the best plants, but layering is
a quicker method, and, in the case of some of the smaller Ericaceæ, one
of the easiest. All the Rhododendrons will not root from cuttings,
though some of the small-flowered ones strike easily, but practically
all may be increased from layers. A few of the showy garden forms cannot
be raised from layers, and have to be grafted on stocks of the common
_R. ponticum_ or _R. catawbiense_.
OLEACEÆ.--This includes both deciduous flowering shrubs and ornamental
evergreens, such as _Syringa_ (Lilac), _Chionanthus_ (Fringe tree),
_Jasminum_ (Jasmine), _Forsythia_, _Ligustrum_ (Privet), _Phillyræa (P.
decora (vilmoriniana)_ is so easily raised from seeds or cuttings that
it is foolish to graft it on the common privet), and _Osmanthus_ being
represented. The first two are best propagated by seeds or layers,
though the named garden Lilac is usually grafted on stocks of the common
_S. vulgaris_, a silly practice. It is a pitiful business keeping down
suckers from grafted plants. Ask for Lilacs on their own roots, and much
vexation will be saved. A garden should be a place of rest and pleasure,
not a hunting-ground for suckers. The other genera are readily raised by
cuttings taken at almost any time of the year, or by layering.
Although the above orders include a considerable number of our best
shrubs, several plants must be specially mentioned. The Clematis is
increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers in the case of the species, but
unfortunately the garden forms are usually grafted on _C. Viticella_ or
_C. Flammula_, whereas many can be propagated by cuttings, and
practically all will root when layered.
[Illustration: _TULIP TREE AT RANELAGH (Winter)._]
In the absence of seeds the following genera must be propagated by
layers, viz., _Aucuba_, _Chimonanthus_ (Winter Sweet), _Halesia_
(Snowdrop tree), _Hamamelis_ (Witch Hazel), _Hippophaë_ (Sea Buckthorn),
and _Myrica_ (Candleberry Myrtle). Cuttings of the first will root
readily enough, but never seem to succeed afterwards. The female form of
_Hippophaë_ is best raised from layers, as seedlings usually give a
large percentage of male plants. _Aralia_ and _Rhus_ (Sumach) are
increased by seeds or root-cuttings; _Buddleia japonica_ is best raised
from seeds, and the other Buddleias from cuttings; and practically all
other hardy shrubs that have not been specially mentioned are easily
propagated by seeds, cuttings, or layers, and the majority of them by
all three methods.
If it is impossible to increase a tree or shrub by any other means than
by the three methods mentioned, then resort to budding or grafting.
[Illustration: _WINTER BEAUTY OF LIME._]
CHAPTER VIII
A WINTER GARDEN OF TREES AND SHRUBS
The budding spring, the ripening summer, the outpoured riches of
harvest, appeal to all, physically if not spiritually. But to hundreds
of people a winter landscape is dreary beyond expression. They never
dream of going into a garden during the dark months; to them its silent
lessons are but a dead-letter, nor would they ever wake to the beauty of
bare boughs nor pause to note the strange glow of withered Fern fronds
in the grey gloom of a foggy day. We are not wholly free from blame in
this matter in so far as our gardens are concerned, for spring and
summer and autumn all have their share in the garden plan, while winter,
too often, stands apart uncared for and unclothed. Yet how much may be
done by the right grouping of beautiful trees and shrubs to make the
winter garden harmonious and inviting.
"You see, it takes a deal of insight to know what's a-going to be," was
a remark, half-apologetic, half-regretful, often made by an old gardener
of a school now gone by, when matters horticultural went somewhat
athwart of his calculations. The words recur to mind as containing a
germ of truth beyond the meaning of the speaker. It has been well said
with regard to deeper matters that foresight must spring from insight,
and it may be taken also as a foundation principle of good gardening.
For just in proportion as we use our faculties of insight and foresight
will our gardens grow, more or less, into a perfect expression of our
sense of the ever-changeful, never-ending beauty of Nature.
It must be no cursory glance given to get rid of an unwelcome duty. We
must look deep into the meaning of things as they are--a meaning which
never lies wholly on the surface--before we can forecast them as they
are going to be, and such insight rarely comes by intuition. The seeing
eye is given only to a few, though with some it is but sleep-holden and
needs no more than to be awakened.
The things that are and the things that are to be. Let us take the
thought as company and try to glean some of Nature's own lessons of
fitness. How instinctively we seek, for a winter ramble, the shelter of
the woodland copse, which is not far distant from any English country
habitation. The broad grass drive is hoar with frosty rime in the shadow
of the bushes and crisp under foot. Under the trees the ground on either
side is carpeted with Ivy. The lithe, trailing stems, wreathed with
their shining, taper-fingered leaves, so exquisitely pencilled, are
cushioned on the soft, feathery moss, or twine in and out amongst the
Hazel stocks, or creep at will up the nearest tree trunk. One can
scarcely look at Ivy on a winter's day without a thrill of admiration,
especially this woodland sort, for, mark it well, Nature never
encourages the coarse-leaved Ivy of common cultivation within her
domains. How perfect in its grace is this fine-leaved Ivy, how utterly
content with its surroundings, how resolutely cheerful, be the
circumstances of weather or situation what they may! Clinging lowly to
the ground or mounting to the topmost branch of some tall Pine, it is
equally at home, and why should we not agree with that good naturalist,
Charles Waterton, in his assertion that forest tree was never injured by
its clasping stems? An English plant for our English climate, it may be
used to make beautiful an unsightly building, to clothe a decaying tree
stump, as bush or border or mantle, in a hundred different ways, yet it
is never out of character, and never touches a jarring note.
Then those tall Hollies, see how dauntlessly they stand up above the
undergrowth of Hazel. How living and warm, in their ruddy glow, are the
clustering berries in the glint of the fearless leaves. For expedience
sake, their lower branches have been trimmed away, and greatly we gain
by it, for otherwise that lovely contrast of their ashen-grey stems
would be hidden from our eyes; but over yonder a fine old Holly tree
stands alone, which axe and knife have left untouched, and how graceful
is the curven sweep of its feathering boughs. No foreign evergreen can
excel it for symmetry of form or winter garniture of leaf and fruit.
Life is astir, too, in the brown twigs of the Hazel bushes. The infant
year is not more than a week or two old, yet already the tasselled
catkins are swinging in the lightest rustle of the sighing wind, and
begin to lift up their tiers of small woolly cowls to set free the
yellow pollen-dust. And so we may go on our way, and, at every turn,
some rugged Yew, or clump of red-stemmed Scotch Fir, or tapering Spruce
with hanging russet cones, will stay our steps, and if we look and
listen, they will tell us in their own way the story of their perfect
fitness for our homely English landscape. Or, if we chance to be in one
of the chalky districts of the South Downs, we may come upon Box, the
ever young, as it was called of yore, or Juniper, in its bloom of silver
grey, as precious as any, to add to the tale of our best native
evergreens.
Now it is to a wise choice of evergreens and to their rightful placing
that we must look for the basis of our content in the winter garden. The
insight of our forefathers foresaw the solid comfort of the rampart of
Yew which was fostered of old in many a manor-house garden. It caused
them to fence about their dwellings on north and east with a belt of
sturdy timber trees, to meet and ward off in their pliant strength the
roughest winter gales. It planned the sheltered nut-walk and the
pleached alley and the cosy settle, carved out of the thick Box bushes,
on the grassy verge of the bowling-green. They took of the materials at
hand, and many have since their day blessed the foresight which planted,
not only for themselves, but for their children's children. That they
were not blind to the rare beauty of foreign trees many a magnificent
Cedar of Lebanon and massive Holm Oak or deciduous tree--like the fine
Tulip trees at Mackery End, beloved of Charles Lamb--bear noble
testimony to this hour.
Nothing, perhaps, in the wide range of garden beauty is more pictorial
than an ancient Cedar, dusky and glaucous, with cavernous shadows,
holding upright the smooth, pale-brown, rounded cones on its flattened
branches, or some grand Silver Fir standing alone in its solemn
symmetrical beauty, or even, as may now and then be seen, though rarely,
some stately Araucaria, wind-sheltered, whose radiating branches sweep
down upon the greensward. Others there are, no less pictorial perhaps,
nor even less exacting, for none can do without the shelter of a good
position, such as the Stone Pines, with corrugated trunk and green
spreading head; or again, the graceful fragrant Cypress (_C.
lawsoniana_) of more recent date, with its slender pyramidal growth and
drooping feathery branches, taking on at the close of winter the
ruby-red of the catkins which tell of the coming of the small,
bloom-powdered cones.
The desperate hurry, the incessant crowding out of the times in which we
live, give little encouragement to the sentiment of planting for
posterity, yet some such planting is continually being done. This much
must be said, that the last fifty years have seen the introduction of
numberless fine trees and shrubs, the fitness of which for our climate
time alone could test. During that period in England, the Mammoth tree
of the Yosemite Valley (_Sequoia gigantea_) has been planted in its
thousands, and by irony of fate, the giant not seldom finds itself
cramped within the limits of a half-acre plot. But leaving out the
question of space, it is a tree utterly unsuited to our northern
climate, unless under exceptional circumstances, as its scorched and
fretted branches on the windward side sufficiently prove; while in
itself it is not nearly so grand or suggestive as its near-of-kin, the
beautiful Californian Redwood (_S. sempervirens_).
Ah! that burning question of space, how it comes between us and our
highest garden aspirations! Have we not all seen the Deodar or the
Araucaria trying to exist in a narrow, twelve-foot forecourt, and
smiled, if we have not rather been ready to weep, over the crass
absurdity of its position? But such mistakes are made every day. Let us
think, then, before we plant, of the things that are going to be, and
take prudent counsel with ourselves.
Our garden resources, nowadays, are beyond all calculation greater than
those of our forefathers, and we rejoice and are glad because of it; but
we should let nothing oust from our affections the hardy trees and
shrubs, native and naturalised, that are at home in our climate,
beautiful in themselves and invaluable in their fitness to give shelter
to the more fastidious immigrants from other latitudes.
Shelter, in fact, is as the keynote to the winter garden. Beauty is
killed when leaves that should be green and smiling are bruised and
brown, when boughs that should be perfect in grace and curve are twisted
and tortured. We may be very sure, too, that such symptoms of discomfort
in our gardens will re-act in disquiet on ourselves, whereas the mere
sight of tree or bush standing firm in its green bravery through storm
and stress tends, it may be unawares, to brace and uplift. Even the
familiar Laurel, good as it is when suitably placed, and used not too
freely, is constantly scathed and disfigured in damp or low-lying
localities. For the same reason, it is doubtful whether Rhododendrons
should be planted within range of our windows. Most of them, in severe
weather, frightened before they are hurt, put on a melancholy air and
droop of leaf which is apt to send a shiver through any shrinking mortal
whose vitality is already low enough.
The bare boughs of winter, on the contrary, are never depressing. They
sleep, but it is not the sleep of death; they rest, but while they are
resting, we feel that the mystery of life silently works out the
fulfilment of the promise of re-awakening. Meanwhile, before the veil of
leafage hides so much else that is beautiful from our eyes, we see the
things that are, tree trunks in all their majesty of girth and column
and fencing bark, the net-work of budding spray, each after its kind
distinct, yet each in its own form perfect. Even in mid-winter, the
brown gummy buds of the Horse Chestnuts begin to swell at the ends of
the swaying boughs, and the Ash-buds, as they make ready to burst their
bonds, put on a deeper hue.
The Beeches keep their silken green tight shut within their scale-bound
points, and will not let it unfold an hour too soon; but look at the
lovely colouring, now silvern, now golden green, of the Lichen-stains on
the smooth grey bark. Contrast it with the deeply-chiselled ribs of the
Sweet Chestnut, the rugged armour-plates of the Oak, the thin white
tissue of the dainty Silver Birch. It is this diversity, these
contrasts, which make up the charm of winter, while the sombre green of
Fir and Yew intermingling with the leafless trees gives just the touch
of warmth and comfort which winter lacks. If any of these bless our
gardens with their gracious presence, let us hesitate long before any
trivial inconvenience tempts us into doing away with them. A single
group of Silver Birches, one spreading Beech, a clump of Scotch Fir,
with a stretch of grass beneath them, is more precious to look out upon
in the winter garden than all the borders and rockeries that can be
devised. Urge as we may, however, for their own sake, the fitness and
constant delight of our native trees and evergreen shrubs, we plead for
them, no less, because by their well-advised use our sheltered gardens
may become congenial abiding-places for the strangers we may invite
within our gates.
Do we profit as much as we might by the wealth of garden beauty, in the
way of trees and shrubs, which for every intent and purpose lies within
our reach?
Take Magnolias, for example. They are not sub-tropical trees, as we are
apt to think, but fairly hardy, and the Laurel Magnolia, so well known
as a beautiful covering for a south wall, is seldom enough seen in
standard form. Yet it is one of the most stately of evergreen trees, and
it would be hard to find one more worthy of a good position, sheltered
from north and easterly winds. The whole outline of the tree is noble,
with its broad, shining, russet-backed leaves, a delight to look upon in
winter--nor is it shy, when full-grown, of bearing in late summer its
scented ivory-white lily-cups. It is too much, however, to expect the
lovely-sculptured, crimson-flushed cones, which in warmer climates than
ours open about November to disclose their hanging scarlet seeds. Some
of the deciduous Magnolias, too, such as the fine Chinese Yulan (_M.
conspicua_) and the bushy white-flowered Japanese species (_M.
stellata_), are full of interest, even while lifeless. All through the
winter we may watch the gradual filling out of the hairy, conical
flower-bracts, until at length, in very early spring, the impatient buds
can contain themselves no longer, and all too soon, sometimes, push them
off altogether that they may creep out of their prison bands.
Every one has his private calendar, and reckons the seasons by a
computation of his own, but we may safely say that four long months, if
no more, separate the falling of the leaf from its coming again.
Perhaps we ought not to include Magnolias amongst hibernal flowers,
though the trees are often white with blossom before the Larch is green;
but the list of shrubs which bloom, or are bright with coloured fruit
during those four months, would surprise most people who think of winter
only as the dead season. The boughs of Sea Buckthorn are loaded with
orange berries. Clusters of scarlet peep out of the fresh green of the
Skimmia bushes and, so long as the birds do not find them out,
_Pernettya_ carries a crop of purple and crimson and pink fruit more
showy than the modest white flowers of summer. When November days are
growing dark, _Coronilla_, in sheltered spots, puts forth its pale
clustering yellow flowers. Winter Jasmine, if the flowering branches are
not ruthlessly pruned away in autumn, covers its long green shoots with
golden stars. The evergreen Clematis (_C. calycina_) is never happier
than when clinging to some terrace balustrade where it may have a little
kindly shelter, which it repays by wreathing the stone-work with
garlands of finely-cut bronzed foliage, hung with creamy freckled bells.
More than one kind of hardy Heath, if grown in spreading masses, will
deck the garden with sheets of colour the whole winter through.
The Chinese Honeysuckle (_L. Standishii_) arrays itself in its fragile
white flowers as early as January. Witch Hazels hang their bare branches
with twisted petals of gold or amber or, sometimes (as in _Hamamelis
zuccariniana_), borrow the pale-green tint of the under wing of a
brimstone butterfly. Soon after Christmas, Mezereon flushes into rosy
purple, and bushes of Winter-sweet (_Chimonanthus fragrans_),
independent of a wall (as few people know), will breathe out its perfume
from leafless branches studded over with waxen-yellow flowers. It is
strange how many of these winter-blooming plants keep their leaves well
out of harm's way, brave as their flowers may be. But so it is, and so
we learn that if we would gain their fullest winter beauty, we must
group them with evergreen shrubs as foil or background.
And what store there is of these to choose from, not green only, but
colour-tinged--_Berberis_ of many kinds, the shining ordered leaf-rows
of _Azara_, the purple tints of _Mahonia_ and _Gaultheria_, the bronze
of _Andromeda_ buds, the deep dull green of _Osmanthus_, the wine red of
_Leucothoë_, the pearl grey of _Atriplex_, and a hundred more will
respond to our beck and call. Only we must choose with judgment, for
whether our lot is cast in north or south, in the black east or soft
caressing west, makes all the difference to our choosing. Only be sure
that more important still than climate are the wind-breaks we can plan,
and the shelter we may contrive. Yet when we are in doubt we can always
come back with satisfaction to the quick-growing hardiest shrubs and
find in them some fit setting for our garden picture. The slender angled
branches of green Broom, the rigid spiny Furze, scented Rosemary, or
hoary Lavender--all will lend their varied tints and attributes as we
need them. And if a pool or stream only gives us opportunity, what can
surpass the winter colouring of osier twigs--golden and crimson and
olive, mirrored in still water or broken into a thousand reflections by
the ripple of a running brook?
Perhaps, amongst all the wealth of winter evergreen shrubs the rank of
those which show variegation is too much exaggerated. Popular as they
are, the effect is not always good, unless more than ordinary care is
taken in their placing. Some few, like the best golden and silver
Hollies, are very beautiful, though not all of these are improvements
upon the finest green forms. No variegated shrub, probably, is more
universally grown than the Aucuba, and it has excellent points; it is
hardy in constitution, handsome in outline, and bold of leaf. By
ill-luck, as it happened, more than a hundred years ago, the spotted
variety was sent home first from Japan, and became domiciled in English
gardens and rooted in English affections before the far more worthy
green species made its entry.
It is but a private opinion and not given as dogma that it might
possibly be a distinct gain to gardens, large and small, if the spotted
Aucuba were practically banished and the true green-leaved forms--some
of which are generally beautiful when well set with large coral
berries--allowed to take its place. The variegated Oleaster (_Elæagnus
pungens_), a remarkably fine shrub when taken by itself, sadly disturbs
the repose and dignity of the garden outlook in winter, though doubtless
positions might be found in which it would harmonise with its
surroundings.
We need only con over, mentally, all the more familiar examples of
shrub variegation to find, probably, that we should do as well without a
goodly proportion of them, though we may frankly admit some to be very
handsome. The secret of our discontent, possibly, lies in the fact that
variegation in plants that are normally green is not, in its essence, a
sign of health but of wasting sickness. In any case, whatever our
feelings may be on this particular point, it is well worth while to
weigh the merits of each shrub, variegated or green, before we plant it,
not only individually, but in relation to its neighbourhood to other
garden associates, and more especially with regard to its winter aspect.
Mr. Bean writes as follows about the winter beauty of trees and shrubs:
"Even in November and December there are trees and shrubs that brighten
the garden with their coloured bark and fruits. Although not abundant,
the members of this class are not used so extensively as they might be.
"Among Willows, for instance, there are the golden and red-barked
varieties of _Salix vitellina_. These, though scarcely ever seen, are
capable, when properly treated, of producing bright warm effects that
are especially charming from November to February. When allowed to grow
naturally this Willow--known popularly as the Golden Osier--forms a
graceful tree of large size. Its twigs have a golden or red tinge,
according to the variety, but on fully-grown trees these twigs are not
large, and as it is, of course, the bark of the preceding summer's
growth only that is coloured no very marked colour effect is produced.
To obtain a really bright patch of colour it is necessary to plant these
Willows in goodly-sized groups and to prune them hard back every spring.
By treating them in this way a great cluster of long, wand-like growths
is made every year, the bark over the whole of which becomes a bright
yellow or red as winter approaches. An effective group is produced by
mixing the red and yellow-barked varieties.
"Another striking Willow is _Salix daphnoides_. The young bark of this
species is covered with a thick glaucous or vivid blue-white 'bloom.'
_S. acutifolia_ is similarly distinguished, though not quite so
markedly. Different from any of these Willows, too, is the variety of
_S. triandra_, with purplish-brown bark. To bring out fully the
ornamental qualities of these Willows they should be treated as advised
for _Salix vitellina_. All these Willows are especially charming near
the edge of water. Not only are their moisture-loving propensities
satisfied, but their beauty is doubled by reflection in the water.
"Somewhat similar to the Willows in the character of their bark, but
useful in being adapted for drier situations, are the Cornels
(_Cornus_). The best of the genus in this connexion are _Cornus alba_
and its variety _sibirica_. They produce bark which for one or two
seasons remains a bright red during the time the branches are leafless.
A group of _Cornus alba_, with _Chionodoxa Luciliæ_ or Winter Aconite
planted thickly beneath, gives a very pleasing bit of colour early in
the year. A yellow-barked form of _Cornus stolonifera_, known as
_flaviramea_, deserves mention.
"Several shrubs are notable for the particularly bright green of their
bark. The forms of _Kerria japonica_ and _Neillia_ are very bright
during the winter on this account, but still more effective is a near
ally, _Stephanandra Tanakæ_, a comparatively new shrub, also from Japan,
but of little value in any other respect. Finally, I may mention the
Rubuses with white stems. As in _Salix daphnoides_, the bark is covered
with the waxy secretion known as 'bloom,' and of a blue-tinted white.
Some six or seven species of Rubus have this character. Of those
obtainable from nurseries, _R. biflorus_, a Himalayan species often to
be had from dealers under the erroneous name of _Rubus leucodermis_, is
the best. Dr. A. Henry has introduced a Chinese species, _Rubus
lasiostylus_, which is even better than _biflorus_; the bloom is more
distinctly blue, and the stems sturdier and more self-supporting. The
species is, however, an extremely rare one in cultivation. It is
scarcely necessary to repeat how essential it is that these Brambles and
Cornels should be planted in bold groups.
"Among trees the most noteworthy as regards the colour of their bark are
the Birches. The beauty of the Common White Birch has not been
overlooked by planters. A single specimen or a few grouped together make
a bright winter picture when associated with evergreens. The Canoe Birch
of North America (_Betula papyrifera_) has a bark of an even purer
white than our native species. The Yellow Birch (_B. lutea_) shows warm
orange-brown tints on the more recently exposed surfaces of its bark.
The bark of the River Birch (_B. nigra_) is not brightly coloured, being
of a dull dark brown, but it gives the tree a notably curious aspect
owing to the way it stands out from the trunk and branches in great
ragged-looking flakes.
[Illustration: _A WITCH HAZEL IN FLOWER: HAMAMELIS JAPONICA VAR.
ZUCCARINIANA._]
A FLOWER GARDEN IN WINTER
"It is possible to make a new feature in gardens by setting apart a
piece of ground exclusively for the cultivation of trees, shrubs, and
bulbs--in short, any plants that flower or are bright with fruit or bark
between, say, the beginning of November and the end of February. One
might term it 'an outdoor winter garden.' For the purpose there would be
required a well-drained piece of ground, the soil of which was fertile
and open. The situation should be fully exposed to the south and west,
but guarded well on the north and east sides by a thick belt of
evergreen trees and shrubs. The shelter would be still more complete if
the site sloped rather steeply to the south-west. Such shelter would be
welcome, not only to the plants that grew there, but to those who might
visit and tend them. Some of the more noteworthy trees and shrubs with
ornamental barks I have already mentioned. Plants that carry their fruit
into winter might be included, such as the Hollies, especially the
yellow-berried Holly; _Cratægus Crus-Galli_ and _C. cordata_;
_Cotoneaster rotundifolia_, which is the best of all the Cotoneasters,
and frequently carries its bright-scarlet berries till March; and
_Hippophaë rhamnoides_, the Sea Buckthorn, whose orange-coloured fruits
are borne in such profusion and retain their colour till past Christmas
if the frosts are not too severe. The scarlet-fruited _Skimmia japonica_
and its varieties are very ornamental during the winter months, but of
these (as well as the Hippophaë) it is necessary to grow male and female
plants together. Groups of variegated evergreens would not only help to
give shelter and warmth, but would also add to the brightness of the
garden. The best of them are the golden and silver variegated
Elæagnuses, the Hollies of a similar character, and the best of the
Aucubas, of which there are now some very fine forms; the female plants
are also very ornamental as fruit-bearers. _Pinus sylvestris aurea_, a
variety of the Scotch Pine that turns golden in winter but is green at
other seasons, and _Cupressus macrocarpa lutea_ are the two best
Conifers of their class. Many of the variegated Conifers lose most or
all of their colour as autumn and winter approach.
[Illustration: _ULMUS ALATA._]
"With regard to the trees and shrubs that bear flowers between November
and February, the number is not, of course, great; still, they
constitute a group that is larger, perhaps, than is generally supposed.
The following list, which comprises all that I can call to mind, may be
useful even to those who would not intend to bring them together in one
spot. Some country houses are only occupied during the shooting and
hunting seasons, and these winter-flowering plants are of especial value
in such places. The tree or bush Ivies are very beautiful, and may be
had in great variety, such as yellow berried, _palmata aurea_,
_rhomboidea ovata_, and _amurensis_."
_November_
Arbutus hybrida.
,, Unedo and vars.
Daphne Mezereum grandiflora.
Elæagnus glabra, macrophylla, and pungens (all delightfully fragrant).
Hamamelis virginica.
Jasminum nudiflorum.
Lonicera fragrantissima.
,, Standishii.
_December and January_
Chimonanthus fragrans.
Clematis calycina.
Cratægus monogyna præcox (Glastonbury Thorn).
Erica mediterranea hybrida.
,, carnea.
,, ,, alba.
Garrya elliptica.
Viburnum Tinus.
_February and early March_
Berberis japonica.
,, nepalensis.
Cornus Mas.
Corylopsis spicata.
Daphne blagayana.
,, Laureola and var. purpurea
,, Mezereum.
,, ,, var. alba.
,, oleoides.
Erica mediterranea.
Hamamelis arborea.
,, japonica.
,, mollis.
,, zuccariniana.
Prunus davidiana (pink and white forms).
,, Amygdalus persicoides.
Populus tremuloides pendula.
Parrotia persica.
Pyrus japonica.
Rhododendron altaclarense.
,, dauricum.
,, nobleanum.
,, præcox.
CHAPTER IX
TREES AND SHRUBS WITH BEAUTIFUL CATKINS
When thinking of trees and shrubs in early spring we must remember those
with beautiful catkins. Of the earliest flowering hardy trees and shrubs
the majority are those with flowers borne in catkins. Their appearance
is one of the first evidences of the approach of spring. It is to the
catkin-bearing group that the Poplars, Willows, Birches, and Alders
belong. These catkins are pendulous, cylindrical, and often slender
inflorescences, carrying flowers of one sex only, which spring from the
axils of scaly bracts. Being mainly dependent upon the wind for their
fertilisation, they have none of the varied or bright colours that are
characteristic of flowers fertilised by insect agency. Often, indeed,
sepals and petals are entirely absent. Still, many of these
catkin-bearers possess a charm and beauty of their own, which, taken
with the early, often inclement, season when they appear, make the best
of them indispensable in gardens where early spring effects are desired.
As a rule it is the male or pollen-bearing catkins that are most
ornamental. They are longer and more graceful than the seed-bearing
ones.
POPLARS
First among Poplars to bear its flowers, and almost before winter is
past, is the Aspen (_Populus tremula_). This and its weeping variety
bear their catkins in February, but closely following it, and perhaps
more ornamental, is the American Aspen (_P. tremuloides_). This species
flowers early in March near London in mild seasons, but later further
north, and when kept back by severe weather. The pendulous variety of
_P. tremuloides_--known commonly as Parasol de St. Julien--is, at the
flowering time, probably the most beautiful and striking of all
catkin-bearing trees. This and also the type produce long, slender
catkins that sway gently in the softest winds. The weeping variety,
which has branches that weep naturally low, looks well by itself on a
lawn. In all these Poplars the male catkins are three inches to four
inches long, chiefly grey-brown in colour; the scale-like bracts,
however, are suffused with a reddish shade. The weeping varieties of
these two Aspens are frequently grafted on the White Poplar, which is
not a suitable stock. The species to which the varieties severally
belong should be used for the purpose. It would be even better if they
could be got on their own roots by means of layers or cuttings, and
trained up to the required height before allowing the weeping habit to
develop.
There are other Poplars that bear their catkins freely, such as _P.
alba_, _nigra_, and _balsamifera_, but being of loftier habit they do
not show to the same advantage as those of the Aspen group.
HAZELS
Between the middle and the end of February the flowers on the catkins of
the various species of _Corylus_ begin to expand. Early as that date is,
the catkins have, nevertheless, been in evidence since the previous
autumn; they were, in fact, formed before the nuts fell. Being
comparatively low and shrubby the different varieties of the Hazel
(_Corylus Avellana_) show their catkins to best advantage, and there are
few among the catkin-bearers more charming. It is not often that any but
the coloured-leaved varieties find a place in the garden proper, but
either in the orchard or in the woodland the soft yellow of the Hazel
catkins is one of the most pleasing notes of earliest spring. The Tree
Hazel (_Corylus Colurna_), a fine and interesting tree, growing thirty
feet or more high, also bears its catkins in February.
WILLOWS
Of the almost innumerable species and varieties of _Salix_, it is only a
few that need be mentioned here for their beauty when in flower. So far
as I have been able to judge, the most ornamental of the Willows in
catkin time is _Salix smithiana_, known also as _S. mollissima_. This
tree flowers about mid-March, producing its shortish, thick male catkins
in very great abundance; the numerous exposed anthers give a soft but
glowing yellow tone to the tree, and entitle it to rank as one of the
most ornamental of early-flowering trees. The pendulous variety of
_Salix Capræa_ is known as the Kilmarnock Willow. Although of weeping
habit it is somewhat stiff in character; but towards the end of March
and later it is exceedingly pretty loaded with its grey catkins. The
flowers of the typical _S. Capræa_ (the Goat Willow) are commonly known
in many country places as Palm, and are used for decorating churches on
Palm Sunday. The slender, coloured twigs of the Purple Willow (_Salix
purpurea_) bear red or purplish-tinted catkins in early April. _Salix
stipularis_ may also be mentioned for its beauty when in flower.
ALDERS
With the exception of a few species, such as _Alnus nitida_ and _A.
maritima_, which flower in September and October, all the Alders develop
their blossoms in February and March. The common Alder (_A. glutinosa_)
and its varieties are perhaps as ornamental as any at that time. Like
the Willows, they look best and grow best in association with water. In
such a position an Alder at that time, leafless, but laden with its
slender, greenish-yellow catkins, is a beautiful object, and
characteristic, too, of our English landscape. Other species possessing
a similar quiet beauty are _Alnus incana_, _A. viridis_, _A. oregona_,
and especially _A. cordifolia_ with its green and yellow catkins.
JAPANESE WALNUTS
_Juglans sieboldiana_ and its close allies, _J. mandschurica_ and _J.
cordiformis_, do not flower till May, but bear at that time very
remarkable male catkins. I have measured them over one foot long, and
hanging as they do in goodly number from the branches, perfectly
straight and cylindrical, they have a very striking appearance, although
green. All three species are alike in their catkins, but differ in the
shape of the nuts. They are noteworthy, too, for the imposing character
of their foliage. The leaves are pinnate, and on young trees grown in
good soil are frequently three feet long. They certainly deserve the
notice of planters.
GARRYA ELLIPTICA
From all the catkin-bearers hitherto mentioned, this differs in being
evergreen. It is also far removed from them in relationship, and is
closely allied to the Cornels. At the same time the catkins in external
characteristics are very similar. Not only the catkins but the plants
themselves are unisexual, and, as is usual with the catkin-bearers, it
is the male that is most ornamental. These catkins are from four inches
to eight inches long, and I have heard of (but not seen) them as much as
one foot in length. The time at which the flowers expand depends, as
with all the early catkin-bearers, on the mildness of the season. This
year on a wall the catkins have been in beauty ever since the first week
of January. They are very attractive in their grace and quiet beauty.
Chiefly of soft grey and green colours, the bracts are, however,
suffused with a warmer reddish tint. In the neighbourhood of London
Garrya elliptica is quite hardy in ordinarily sheltered positions, but
does not flower so freely as against a south wall. As it is of
Californian origin this is not surprising. This shrub resents
disturbance at the root, and in transplanting great care is necessary.
There are other species of Garrya in cultivation, but they are more
suitable to the south-western counties than to the average climate of
Britain.
To the catkin-bearing family belong several other well-known trees, such
as the Birches, Hornbeams, and Sweet Chestnut; but flowering later in
the year their beauty is apt to pass without notice in the great flush
of bloom that comes in with April. The beautifully fragrant Sweet Gale
must not be passed without mention. Its reddish brown catkins are formed
before autumn, and expand on the still leafless twigs in spring.
CHAPTER X
AUTUMN COLOURS
There is a mystery about the autumn colouring of the foliage of our many
beautiful hardy trees and shrubs in this country, and we have never yet
ascertained with any degree of exactness the conditions that produce the
richest and brightest tints. Probably the conditions most favourable
generally are provided by a good growing season--that is, a warm, moist
summer--followed by a dry, sunny autumn. But it frequently happens after
what one would regard as favourable seasons, that species which are
usually quite trustworthy in this matter fail to colour well. Probably
one set of conditions does not suit all trees and shrubs in this
respect. To produce the colouration of the leaf just before it falls
certain subtle chemical changes in its composition take place. And to
bring about these changes certain conditions in regard to sunlight,
temperature, and moisture are necessary. But in a climate such as that
of Britain, where the seasons are never alike two years together, we can
never hope to obtain the same regularity of autumnal colouring that
characterises the vegetation, for instance, of the Eastern United
States. Still, when all is said, we possess in our gardens a large
number of trees and shrubs and climbers that are delightful in their
autumnal livery of crimson, purple, scarlet, or gold. It is curious that
every season we may notice species not usually conspicuous for their
autumn tints beautifully coloured.
An over-vigorous, sappy growth, often the result of a wet, warm autumn
or too rich a soil, is certainly detrimental to autumn colouring. _Rhus
cotinoides_, an American Sumach, worth growing for the beauty of its
colours in autumn, is one of the most unfailing in this matter. This is
perhaps one of the loveliest of all autumn-tinted shrubs, and should be
more planted. But young plants, put out in well-trenched,
heavily-manured soil, will often fail to colour at all till they get
older and less vigorous. The most beautifully coloured examples of this
Sumach that we have seen grow in rather light sandy soil. We have
frequently noticed, too, that various species of Vine (_Vitis_) when
starved in pots will colour exquisitely, whilst others, planted out in
the ordinary way, completely fail. We believe, therefore, when planting
with a view to the production of autumnal colour, any great enrichment
of the soil is neither necessary nor advisable, provided it is of
moderate quality to start with.
In the following notes, brief mention is made of some of the best trees,
shrubs, and climbers that colour in autumn:--
TREES
First among these are the American Red Oaks. Undoubtedly the best of
these is a variety of _Quercus coccinea_ known as _splendens_ and
_grayana_. This not only turns to a fine scarlet crimson, but it retains
its foliage for some weeks after the colour has been acquired--sometimes
almost up to Christmas. Other good Oaks, not so certain, however, as the
preceding, are _Quercus marylandica_ (or _nigra_), _Q. heterophylla_,
_Q. imbricaria_, and _Q. palustris_, all of which turn red. The Tupelo
tree (_Nyssa sylvatica_) turns a fine burnished bronzy red. A tree
remarkable for the size of its leaves, and especially for the rich
golden yellow they put on in autumn, is _Carya tomentosa_, but, like
most of the Hickories, it is scarcely known in gardens. _Carya sulcata_
is somewhat similar. The Common Elm is usually very beautiful in the
soft yellow tints of its leaves in autumn, but another Elm of more
distinct aspect is _Ulmus pumila_, a low tree whose small leaves are
retained till late in the year, and turn golden yellow before they fall.
_Liquidambar styraciflua_ has long been valued for its fading foliage of
purple red, but not so well known is the lovely yellow of the Fern-like
foliage of the Honey Locust (_Gleditschia triacanthos_). The Tulip tree
(_Liriodendron_), the Nettle trees (_Celtis_), the _Zelkowas_, and
several of the Birches turn yellow, one of the best of the Birches being
_Betula corylifolia_, which turns a rich orange yellow.
Among commoner trees the yellow of the Horse Chestnut, the lovely
crimson of the Wild Cherry, the golden shades of the Black and Lombardy
Poplars, add much to the beauty of every autumn. Several of the Maples
are noteworthy in this respect, more especially the numerous varieties
of Japanese Maples (_Acer palmatum_ and _A. japonicum_), these, as well
as the Mandshurian _Acer Ginnala_, turning to various shades of red. The
Common Sycamore and Norway Maple change to yellow, but Schwedler's
variety of the latter becomes red. Other trees that deserve mention are
_Amelanchier canadensis_, whose foliage changes to lovely crimson shades
in autumn; _Koelreuteria japonica_, soft yellow; _Pyrus torminalis_,
bronzy red; _Ginkgo biloba_, pale gold; _Cladrastis tinctoria_, yellow;
_Parrotia persica_ and _Hamamelis_, bronzy red and yellow. The Common
Beech is nearly always beautiful, changing first to yellow, then to warm
brown tints. _Clerodendron trichotomum_ is a small growing tree that
should have a place wherever beautiful autumn foliage is desired. Among
Conifers the yellow-leaved variety (_aurea_) of the Scotch Pine is
remarkable in retaining its colour during the winter months only,
becoming green in spring and summer. _Retinospora squarrosa_ and
_Cryptomeria elegans_ turn bronzy red in winter. The warm red-brown
tints of the deciduous Cypress are charming.
SHRUBS
The Sumachs (_Rhus_) furnish some of the most striking of
autumn-colouring shrubs; the best of them, _R. cotinoides_, has been
already described; other fine species are _R. typhina_, _R. glabra_
(with the cut-leaved variety _laciniata_), and _R. Toxicodendron_, all
of which turn red. The Venetian Sumach, _R. Cotinus_, becomes yellow.
_Berberis Thunbergi_, which dies off a rich scarlet, is so beautiful in
autumn that on some estates it has been planted in great quantity, not
only for cover, but so that sportsmen may enjoy its colour during the
shooting season. _B. concinna_ is another charming autumn-coloured
leaved shrub of dwarf growth. _Gaultheria procumbens_ (Partridge Berry)
is too valuable to pass unnoticed. In winter its leaves are stained with
crimson. The leaves of _Cotoneaster horizontalis_ turn from green to
rich shades of chocolate or crimson. The shrub is of spreading growth.
Its evergreen ally, _B. Aquifolium_, turns a glowing red or purple after
the first frosts. The Ghent Azaleas almost always colour richly, either
deep glowing crimson, bronzy red, or gold; and of other ericaceous
plants the warm tints of _Pieris mariana_ and the rich crimson of the
_Enkianthus_ should be mentioned. The taller American _Vacciniums_
(_corymbosum_ and its various forms) are always lovely. Our native
Guelder Rose (_Viburnum Opulus_) becomes crimson in autumn, whilst the
Common Hazel and _Rhamnus Frangula_ often produce fine effects in
yellow. The feathery foliage of _Spiræa Thunbergi_ is singularly
beautiful when it changes from its natural pale green to crimson; and
_S. prunifolia fl. pl._ is perhaps more distinct than the species, and
two other Japanese shrubs (both, unfortunately, very rare) are
remarkable for their autumnal beauty. These are _Disanthus
cercidifolia_, an ally of the Witch Hazels, lovely claret colour, and
_Viburnum alnifolium_, crimson.
Other noteworthy shrubs are _Fothergilla alnifolia_, rich red; _Euonymus
alatus_, crimson; _Deutzia crenata_, yellow; and _Pyrus arbutifolia_,
red. The common Brambles of our woods should not be passed over without
mention; they turn a rich glowing red, and for their autumnal beauty
alone may be used as undergrowth in wilder parts of the garden and
woodland.
CLIMBERS
First among these, of course, is Veitch's Ampelopsis, the finest of all
deciduous climbers for walls, being self-supporting and changing to
crimson in autumn. _Vitis Coignetiæ_ is one of the noblest of all Vines,
and turns crimson also. Other Vines useful in this respect are the
Teinturier Vine, purple; _V. Romaneti_, red; and the Virginian Creeper,
especially that variety known as _muralis_ or _Engelmannii_, which
clings to walls or tree trunks without any artificial support, and
acquires beautiful red shades in autumn. Among Honeysuckles, _Lonicera
japonica var. flexuosa_ is noteworthy for the fine red purple of its
decaying leaves. Those of _Akebia quinata_ change colour in autumn and
assume shades of brownish purple, sometimes touched with maroon. Then
there is _Actinidia Kolomikta_, an Asiatic species with showy
yellow-coloured leaves in autumn. Of the Ivies _Hedera Helix
atropurpurea_ is much the best. It has medium-sized leaves which are
rich green during the growing season, but change in winter to purple and
maroon.
CHAPTER XI
TREES AND SHRUBS WITH FINE FRUITS
The most important of all the groups of trees and shrubs, for their
fruit, is the one comprising the hardy species of the Rose order. This
includes, of course, besides the Roses, such trees and shrubs as the
Thorns, Crabs, and Cotoneasters. Among the Thorns (Cratægus) are many
very handsome sorts giving variety in size and colour of the fruits. It
is unfortunate that many of them fall early and get spoilt by birds. At
the same time birds add so greatly to the delight of the garden that we
may well overlook their depredations. By many, indeed, these fruiting
trees will be considered worth growing for the encouragement they give
to bird-life. It may be well to remind planters that a considerable
number of these fruiting trees and shrubs bear male flowers on one
plant, female on another. People are often at a loss to understand why
their Sea Buckthorns or Aucubas or Skimmias do not fruit, when the
simple reason is that the plants are all male (or pollen-bearing), or
that the female ones have no males to fertilise them. As a general rule,
if these shrubs are grouped, one male to eight or ten females is a
proper proportion. As plants raised from seeds come in about equal
proportions of both sexes, it is necessary to select the females and
keep just sufficient males to pollenise them, in order that the full
beauty of the species as a fruit-bearer may be obtained. With Skimmias
and Aucubas the proper proportions can be obtained by means of cuttings.
The following hardy trees and shrubs are the most conspicuous for the
beauty of their fruits:--
ARBUTUS UNEDO.--A native of Western Ireland, has strawberry-like fruits
of a bright-scarlet colour.
AILANTUS GLANDULOSA, a fine tree over 50 feet high, is very beautiful
when covered with its red and yellow-winged fruits; there are male and
female plants.
AUCUBAS, grown at first for their ornamental foliage merely, have
latterly come into prominence as fruit-bearers; the female plants bear
clusters of bright-red berries which remain long on the branches and are
very attractive in winter.
BERBERIS.--The fruits of the Berberries are mostly covered with a
plum-coloured bloom as in _B. Aquifolium_ and _B. Darwinii_, but none of
them is handsomer than our native _B. vulgaris_ and its varieties. These
have pendent racemes of fruits, varying in colour from the typical
orange scarlet to white, purple, and black. _B. Thunbergi_ coral-red,
very beautiful.
CRATÆGUS.--The finest of all the Thorns is _C. Pyracantha_, well named
by the French "Buisson ardent." This shrub or small tree is valuable as
a graceful evergreen, and when clothed (as it nearly always is in
autumn) with its brilliant clusters of orange-red haws, it is one of the
most beautiful objects in the garden. It is quite hardy in the open, but
bears fruits more abundantly when planted against a wall. In that
position also it is more easily protected from birds, which soon destroy
the beauty of plants in the open. The variety _Lælandi_ is distinct from
the type, but hardier, and bears bright berries in abundance. The
Cockspur Thorn (_C. Crus-Galli_) has several varieties, all producing
pendent clusters of scarlet haws. The varieties like _pyracanthifolia_,
with narrow leaves and flat-topped habit, are the best in this respect;
they retain the fruits well into the winter, and are not eaten by birds
so freely as many are. The haws of _C. cordata_, the Washington Thorn,
are small, but a brilliant orange. _C. punctata_, _C. Azarolus_, and _C.
pinnatifida_ have the largest haws of any, and they are of a deep red,
but fall early; the two first, however, are variable, and forms with
yellow and other coloured haws belong to them. Those of _C. macracantha_
are bright red, and in favourable years are so plentiful as to make the
tree wondrously beautiful. _C. coccinea_ and _C. mollis_ have also red
haws, larger than those of _C. macracantha_, but they fall soon after
they are ripe. The Common Hawthorn is pretty, but more noteworthy is its
variety _aurea_, with bright-yellow haws. In _C. oliveriana_ they are
black. The Tansy-leaved Thorn (_C. tanacetifolia_) has large yellow
fruits, not badly flavoured, and with the fragrance of Apples. _C.
orientalis_ has haws of a bright sealing-wax red, but in its variety
_sanguinea_ they are of a deeper shade.
[Illustration: _BABYLONIAN WILLOW BY WATERSIDE (Kew)._]
COTONEASTERS.--Not enough use is made of Cotoneasters in gardens. They
grow well in almost any soil, and are all marked by elegant or neat
habit. They are very pretty when in flower, but it is in autumn, when
laden with fruits, that they attain their greatest beauty. One of the
tallest of them is _C. frigida_, and this bears a great abundance of
rich scarlet-red berries in flat clusters. In the nearly allied _C.
bacillaris_ they are almost black. _C. rotundifolia_ is a dwarfer shrub,
but the finest of all the Cotoneasters for its fruit; it grows about 4
feet high, and has small, very dark green, persistent leaves; the fruits
are about the size and shape of the haws of the Common Hawthorn, and are
brilliant scarlet red; they are ripe in October, and from then till
March make one of the most beautiful of winter pictures. In _C.
buxifolia_ the fruit is very abundant, but the red colour is not so
bright as in the preceding. _C. horizontalis_, now getting to be a
well-known shrub, has very pretty, globose, bright-red fruits, small but
freely borne. _C. Simonsii_, of medium height, has brilliant red
berries, as has _C. acuminata_, a near ally, but taller. The dwarfest
section of Cotoneaster, viz., _thymifolia_, _microphylla_ and its
variety _glacialis_ (or _congesta_), which are so useful for rockeries,
have all scarlet berries.
CELASTRUS ARTICULATUS is a vigorous climber from Eastern Asia,
remarkable for the great beauty of its fruits, which are golden yellow
within, and when ripe split open and reveal the shining
scarlet-coated seeds. _C. scandens_ has orange-coloured seeds.
CORIARIA JAPONICA is very beautiful in autumn, when it succeeds as well
as it does with Canon Ellacombe at Bitton, the fruits being covered then
with the persistent petals which are of a lovely coral red.
[Illustration: _WEEPING ASH; PALACE GARDENS, DALKEITH._]
CORNUS CAPITATA (_Benthamia fragifera_) only succeeds to perfection in
the south-western counties; its strawberry-like red fruits are very
handsome.
COPROSMA ACEROSA is a dwarf New Zealand shrub suitable for the rockery;
it has variously-shaded, transparent, blue-green berries.
ELÆAGNUS MULTIFLORA (or _E. longipes_) is the most ornamental in the
genus with regard to its fruits. They are remarkably abundant,
orange-coloured, and specked with reddish scales.
EUONYMUS EUROPÆUS, our native "Spindle tree," is most beautiful in
autumn, when, after a favourable season, it is covered with its open red
fruits revealing the orange-coloured seeds within.
FRAXINUS MARIESII is one of Messrs. Veitch's introductions from Japan,
and is a dwarf tree, one of the "Manna" Ashes; the thin keys are of a
bronzy-red colour and pretty.
GLEDITSCHIA TRIACANTHOS is the "Honey Locust." The pods are not brightly
coloured, being at first green, then brown, but they are long, thin, and
wavy, like crooked scimitars, and hanging in numbers on the tree; have a
very curious and (in this country) uncommon aspect.
HEDERA (Ivy).--Some of the "tree" forms of Ivy produce berries freely;
the most ornamental of them are the red, yellow, and orange-coloured
varieties of _H. Helix arborescens_.
HYMENANTHERA CRASSIFOLIA, from New Zealand, is a dense-growing,
stiff-branched, dwarf shrub, chiefly noteworthy for the white berries it
bears.
HYPERICUMS.--_H. Androsæmum_ and _H. elatum_ produce rather handsome
clusters of black fruits.
HIPPOPHAË RHAMNOIDES, the Sea Buckthorn, is one of the most brilliantly
coloured of all berry-bearing shrubs. It produces them in marvellous
profusion, and they are bright-orange coloured. Birds do not molest the
berries, and unless caught by severe frosts (which turn them grey) they
lighten the garden wonderfully up to, and sometimes after, the New Year.
The necessity of growing both sexes of plants has already been noted,
but isolated females may be artificially impregnated by shaking pollen
over them when in flower.
[Illustration: _WEEPING ASPEN IN FLOWER._]
ILEX (Holly).--The berries of the Holly are so well known that we need
only mention the yellow-berried one (_fructu-luteo_), which is not
common, but very effective in winter.
LIGUSTRUM.--The Privets are of little consequence as fruit-bearing
shrubs, and only _L. sinense_ need be mentioned; it is frequently very
striking in early winter, being covered then with great clusters of
purple-black, shot-like berries.
LYCIUM CHINENSE.--Nearly all the Box Thorns in this country belong to
this species. As for _L. europæum_ and _L. barbarum_, the names are
very common, but the plants themselves very rare. _L. chinense_ is very
ornamental in the fall of the year, its long graceful branches being
well furnished with rich red berries. _L. rhombifolium_ is one of its
forms.
MAGNOLIA TRIPETALA is occasionally noticeable in autumn because of its
large upright fruits of a reddish-purple colour.
MACLURA AURANTIACA, the "Osage Orange," bears a remarkable
orange-coloured fruit 2 to 3 inches in diameter. The tree is quite
hardy, but we have not heard of its bearing fruit in this country. This
is perhaps because male and female flowers occur on different plants.
PERNETTYA MUCRONATA.--First among ericaceous plants for beauty in fruit
is this Magellanic plant and its varieties. It is dwarf and bushy, with
small white flowers followed by enormous quantities of berries about the
size of peas. These vary in colour from white to deep crimson, and are
undoubtedly some of the most valuable of all hardy berry-bearing shrubs.
The varieties are very beautiful.
[Illustration: _WEEPING ELM ON LAWN._]
PALIURUS AUSTRALIS (Christ's Thorn) has flat, disk-like fruits, freely
borne in suitable years; they are green, and if not particularly
ornamental, are very quaint and interesting.
PTELEA TRIFOLIATA.--The same may be said of the abundant clusters of
hop-like fruits seen in this tree.
PYRUS.--In this genus, which includes the Mountain Ash, the Crabs, and
the White Beam trees, there is a great wealth of beautiful fruiting
trees. The Mountain Ash or Rowan tree (_P. Aucuparia_), when laden with
its hanging corymbs of rich scarlet berries is a delightful picture, and
it reaches its full beauty in August. Not so well known is the variety
_fructu-luteo_, with yellow fruits. A near relative of the Rowan tree is
_P. americana_, its New World representative, but it is not so
beautiful. The fruit is almost identical, but the tree is of a stiff and
less graceful aspect. The new _P. thianschanica_, which also belongs to
the Rowan tree group, has bright-red, globose berries. Perhaps of all
the genus Pyrus, none on the whole are so beautiful in autumn as the
Crabs. _P. baccata_, the Siberian Crab, with its bright-red, cherry-like
fruits, and _P. Ringo_ from Japan, with bright-yellow ones, are the best
of the true species. The hybrid "John Downie" Crab is also very
beautiful in autumn.
The flowering QUINCES are not particularly attractive in regard to the
colour of their fruits, but some of them--notably those of the dwarf
_Pyrus Maulei_--are very sweetly scented.
Some very handsome fruits are borne by the various White Beam trees
(_Pyrus Aria_ and its allies). Perhaps the best of them is _P. lanata_
(or _Sorbus majestica_), which has flat clusters of bright-red berries.
But many of the varieties of _P. Aria_ itself are very attractive. One
of the latest additions to this group is _P. alnifolia_, a neat-habited
small tree from Japan and China. It has oblong coral-red fruits.
ROSA.--Beauty at fruiting time is an almost proverbial attribute of the
Roses. None is more beautiful than our native Dog Rose (_R. canina_).
Though in many an English hedgerow, an out-of-the-way corner in many a
garden might be given up to the Dog Rose and its varieties for the sake
of their wealth of scarlet hips in autumn. _R. tomentosa_ and _R.
mollis_ are other red-fruited natives of Britain. All the members of the
Scotch Rose group (_pimpinellifolia_) have black fruits. Of exotic
species, one of the most valuable is _R. rugosa_; its flat,
orange-shaped hips are so abundant and brightly coloured that they make
a brilliant picture. _R. microphylla_ has yellow prickly fruits, whilst
those of _R. macrophylla_ are pear-shaped and scarlet. The deep-crimson
hips of _R. pomifera_, covered with bristly hairs like large
gooseberries, are as remarkable as any. Some of the American species,
although the fruits are usually small, are handsome, such as _R.
nutkana_ and _R. Carolina_. The elongated, pear-shaped fruits of _R.
alpina_ and its variety _pyrenaica_ are bright red, and have a pleasant,
resinous odour when rubbed.
RAPHIOLEPIS JAPONICA, with its clusters of small, round black berries,
should be planted at least against a wall; it is a rather slow-growing
evergreen shrub with strawberry-like flowers.
RHAPHITHAMNUS CYANOCARPUS can only be grown outside against a wall, or
in Cornwall or similar localities, but where it will succeed it is well
worth growing, not only for its pale-blue flowers, but for the
bright-blue fruits that follow them.
Some of the RHAMNUS, such as the native _R. catharticus_ and _R.
Frangula_, bear abundant crops of purple-black berries.
The dense pyramidal fruit-clusters of the Stag's-horn Sumach (_Rhus
typhina_) are often attractive, being covered with crimson hairs. Those
of _R. glabra_ are similarly coloured.
RUBUS PHOENICOLASIUS has spread in cultivation recently, and has
beautiful scarlet berries. It is hardy enough, but birds are so
attracted by the bright colour, that it requires protection from them
when in fruit.
SAMBUCUS.--The scarlet-berried Elder, _S. racemosus_, is by far the
handsomest of the genus, but although it flowers freely enough, it is
very uncertain in producing its fruits. _S. glauca_, from the West
United States, produces large, flat clusters of blue-white berries, and
there is a striking white-fruited variety of _S. nigra_ called
_leucocarpa_.
THE SNOWBERRY (_Symphoricarpus racemosus_) should always have a place in
the garden for the sake of its clusters of large pure white berries,
which remain long on the plants.
VIBURNUM.--There are several very handsome fruiting species in this
genus, no finer, however, than the native _V. Opulus_, or Guelder Rose,
with red fruits, and its variety _fructu-luteo_ with yellow ones. In the
other native species, _V. Lantana_, they are at first red, ultimately
black. Several of the Viburnums are noteworthy for the blue or
blue-black fruits; of these are _dentatum_, _molle_, _cassinoides_, and
_nudum_. Those of the evergreen _V. Tinus_ are also dark blue, but, as
with the other blue-fruited species, they are not frequently borne in
profusion in the average climate of Britain.
VITIS HETEROPHYLLA and its variety _humulifolia_, bear singularly
beautiful clusters of pale china-blue berries. To induce them to fruit
freely, however, the plants require a warm, sunny wall, and rather
restricted root-room.
CHAPTER XII
WEEPING TREES AND THEIR USES
It is not at all easy to define special uses for trees of weeping habit,
but it is safe to use them nearly singly and not in immediate connection
with trees of quite upright form. The point in the weeping tree is a
certain grace of drooping line, such as one enjoys in the drooping
racemes of many of the papilionaceous flowers such as Wistaria,
Laburnum, and Robinia. Nothing is gained by accentuating the peculiarity
by a direct association with trees of an opposite way of growth. It is
better rather to place the weeping trees near rounded masses of shrub
and small tree--for example, a Weeping Birch would group well with a
clump of Rhododendrons.
Near water weeping trees seem to be specially effective. An instance of
this is shown in the familiar Weeping Willow, but one at a time seems as
much as is wanted.
As a general rule, we strongly advocate planting in groups, whether in
the case of trees, shrubs, or flowering plants, but the weeping trees
are less suited for grouping than any others. One Weeping Willow is all
very well, but a whole grove of them would be monotonous and tiresome.
[Illustration: _ELÆAGNUS PUNGENS (Kew)._]
The habit of some of the weeping trees can be directly turned to
account in the making of arbours and pergolas; for by planting the
large-leaved Weeping Elm or the Weeping Ash at the back and on each side
in the case of an arbour, or alternately on each side of the walk for a
pergola, a living shelter may be made in a very few years. The trees in
this case are standards pollarded at about 8 feet from the ground, the
form in which they are generally sent out from the nursery.
[Illustration: _CORNUS MAS VAR. VARIEGATA (Variegated Cornel)._]
Among evergreens the Holly is invaluable. As a rule the weeping or
pendulous varieties are budded on tall stems of the type, and trained
out in an umbrella-like fashion, thus forming a hollow mound of
greenery. In some places, notably at Brookwood in Surrey, pendulous
Hollies have been allowed to grow without any attempt at training. Stout
stems 10 feet to 12 feet high are surmounted by irregular heads, which
droop down 6 feet or 7 feet, leaving several feet at the base of the
stem bare. In winter the long pendulous branches, smothered with bright
red berries, are very pleasant. Facing page 248 is an illustration of a
weeping Holly (_I. Aquifolium var. pendula_) at Kew. Of variegated
weeping Hollies there are _Argentea pendula_ (Perry's Weeping), with
silver variegated leaves; _aurea pendula_ (Waterer's Weeping), with gold
variegated leaves; and _pendula tricolor_. To encourage height rather
than width, it is often necessary to tie up a few of the top shoots,
otherwise they get out of shape; they increase more quickly in width
than height.
(i.) NATURALLY PENDULOUS SPECIES AND VARIETIES, _i.e._ COMING TRUE FROM
SEED
_Asterisk denotes those to choose first._
Tilia (Lime or Linden) petiolaris.
Genista æthnensis (shrubby).
* Prunus pendula (Weeping Japanese Cherry).
Forsythia suspensa (shrubby).
* Salix (Willow) alba cærulea pendula.
,, ,, vitellina pendula.
* ,, ,, babylonica.
,, ,, ,, annularis.
,, ,, ,, Salamoni.
,, ,, elegantissima.
(ii.) PENDULOUS VARIETIES THAT HAVE ORIGINATED AS "SPORTS," PROPAGATED
BY GRAFTS, CUTTINGS, OR LAYERS
* Ilex (Holly) Aquifolium (green and variegated).
Acer (Maple) Negundo pendula.
Rhus Cotinus pendula.
Laburnum vulgare pendulum (Weeping Laburnum).
Cytisus scoparius pendulus.
Caragana (Pea tree) arborescens pendula.
Sophora japonica pendula.
* Prunus Amygdalus pendula (Weeping Almond).
* ,, Avium pendula (Weeping Wild Cherry).
,, acida semperflorens.
* ,, Mahaleb pendula (Weeping Mahaleb Cherry).
,, Padus pendula (Weeping Bird Cherry).
* Cratægus Oxyacantha (Hawthorn), red and white flowered.
Sambucus nigra pendula (Weeping Elder).
* Fraxinus excelsior pendula (Weeping Ash).
,, ,, aurea (golden-leaved) pendula.
,, ,, pendula wentworthii.
,, parviflora pendula.
Ulmus (Elm) americana pendula.
,, ,, campestris pendula.
,, ,, ,, antarctica pendula.
,, ,, ,, suberosa pendula.
,, ,, fulva pendula.
* ,, ,, montana pendula.
,, ,, ,, Pitteursii pendula.
Morus (Mulberry) alba pendula.
* Betula (Birch) alba pendula.
* ,, ,, ,, Youngi.
,, ,, ,, purpurea pendula.
Alnus (Alder) incana pendula.
Carpinus (Hornbeam) Betulus pendula.
Corylus Avellana (Common Hazel) pendula.
Quercus (Oak) pedunculata pendula.
,, ,, rubra pendula.
* Fagus (Beech) sylvatica pendula.
,, ,, ,, miltonensis.
,, ,, ,, remillyensis.
* Salix (Willow) Caprea pendula.
* ,, ,, purpurea pendula.
,, ,, ,, Scharfenbergensis.
,, ,, repens argentea.
* Populus tremula (Aspen) pendula.
* ,, tremuloides pendula.
* ,, grandidentata (American Cotton Poplar).
(iii.) CONIFERS
Cupressus lawsoniana glauca pendula.
,, ,, gracilis pendula.
,, ,, pendula vera.
,, ,, gracillima.
,, nootkatensis pendula.
Cedrus atlantica pendula.
Ginkgo biloba pendula.
Juniperus (Juniper) virginiana pendula.
Larix europæa (Common Larch) pendula.
Thuya orientalis pendula.
,, flagelliformis.
Taxodium distichum (Deciduous Cypress) pendulum.
Tsuga canadensis pendula.
Taxus (Yew) baccata pendula.
,, ,, ,, gracilis pendula.
,, ,, ,, Dovastoni. There is a fine specimen of this in
Barron's nursery at Borrowash.
CHAPTER XIII
THE USE OF VARIEGATED TREES AND SHRUBS
The best use of trees and shrubs with coloured or variegated foliage is
not very easy to determine, though it may be possible to give a few
useful suggestions. The usual way of planting them here and there among
mixed masses of evergreen and deciduous growths is perhaps the worst way
of all. All good planting must be done with much thought and care, and
these plants of coloured foliage, that are necessarily more conspicuous
than others, want the most careful placing of any.
One excellent use of evergreen trees and shrubs with golden colouring,
such as the Gold Hollies, Cypresses, Yews, and Privets is to make them
into a cheerful bit of outdoor winter garden. The Gold-leaved Privet is
a delightful thing in early winter, and though Wild Privet, untouched by
the knife, is a deciduous shrub, the clipped Privets of our gardens
usually hold their leaves throughout the winter. With these the
variegated Japan Honeysuckle might be freely used, much of its yellow
veining turning to a bright red in winter. _Cassinia fulvida_ is another
good winter shrub with its tiny gold-backed leaves. The pretty bushes of
this neat New Zealander are apt to grow somewhat straggling, but the
crowded little branches are the very thing that is wanted through the
winter as cut greenery to go with winter flowers, whether hardy or from
under glass. If these are cut a foot long the bush is kept in shape, and
a valuable supply of stuff for house decoration is provided.
A half or even quarter acre of well-arranged planting of these
gold-variegated shrubs has a surprisingly cheery effect in winter,
making a kind of sunlight of its own when skies are grey, and a
comfortable shelter when winds are keen.
In summer, too, it will be beautiful if the spaces between the shrubs
are cleverly planted, for preference, with plants of white or
pale-yellow flowers, such as White Foxglove, _Oenothera lamarckiana_,
white and pale-yellow _Hibiscus ficifolius_, _Liliums auratum_,
_giganteum_, _speciosum_, and _longifolium_; White Everlasting Pea
trained loosely through any near branches; _Nicotiana affinis_ and _N.
sylvestris_; and close to the path hardy Ferns of pale-green frondage,
such as the Lady Fern; with clumps of plants of golden foliage like the
Gold Valerian and Gold Nettle. A shrub of variegated foliage, planted
without special attention, and coming suddenly in a grouping of others
of an average green colour is made unduly conspicuous. It should be led
up to by neighbours whose colouring gradually assimilates with its own.
The sudden effect of colouring is all very well in the nurseryman's show
borders, where the object is to attract attention to showy individuals,
but in our gardens we want the effect of well-arranged pictures
rather than that of shop windows.
[Illustration: _TAURIAN TAMARISK (Tamarix tetrandra), IN FLOWER._]
A variegated plant to be of real value in the garden must have clear,
bright, and abundant red and yellow or white markings, not dotted or
merely margined with colour. So many worthless shrubs with poor
variegation have been named and offered for sale that it is unwise to
buy them from a catalogue. We may repeat the advice already given, which
is to see them first.
Trees and shrubs with coloured foliage are of several kinds. Most common
of all are those which have leaves blotched or edged with golden or
creamy yellow and white, such as the variegated Hollies and Elæagnuses.
Then there are those which are only coloured at a certain season, like
_Neillia opulifolia aurea_. This has leaves of a beautiful self yellow
colour when they unfold in spring, but become green as the summer
advances; or the variegated Plane (_Platanus acerifolia Süttneri_),
which is only variegated in late summer and autumn.
Finally, there are those, like the Purple Hazel or Purple Beech, which
have leaves of one colour and remain almost of the same shade whilst
they are on the tree.
On the whole the plants that retain their colour till late summer and
autumn, or acquire it then, are most valuable, because very few trees
and shrubs are then in flower.
Variegated trees and shrubs must not be planted too plentifully, and
studiously avoid all spotty effects. Many a garden would be improved by
bringing the variegated shrubs it contains together so as to produce a
few broad masses of colour. Some of these shrubs, like Spath's Cornel,
or the Golden Elder, may, in large gardens especially, be planted alone
in large beds or groups. The large trees, like the Purple Beech, can
stand by themselves.
The following list contains about one hundred of the finest of
variegated trees and shrubs:--
TREES
Acer Negundo variegatum, creamy white.
,, Negundo aureum, golden entirely.
,, platanoides Schwedleri, soft red in spring.
,, Pseudo-platanus flavo-marginatum, the "Corstorphine" Sycamore, one
of the largest of variegated trees.
Alnus glutinosa aurea, wholly yellow.
Betula alba purpurea, wholly purple.
Castanea sativa aureo-marginata, the variegated Sweet Chestnut, perhaps
the best of all large trees, with parti-coloured leaves. The leaves
burn on some soils.
Catalpa bignonioides aurea, wholly golden, and most effective in summer
and autumn.
Fagus sylvatica purpurea. Of the Purple Beeches there are now numerous
forms, such as atropurpurea, cuprea, purpurea, pendula
(weeping), and "Swat Magret" (the darkest of all). Pyramidalis
purpurea is very beautiful.
,, sylvatica variegata, white.
,, sylvatica tricolor, various shades of red and purple; beautifully
coloured, but not vigorous.
,, sylvatica var. Zlatia, entirely pale golden green in spring, but
for a short time only.
,, sylvatica, Paul's gold-margined, is a pretty variegated tree.
Fraxinus americana aucubæfolia, richly mottled with yellow.
Ilex Aquifolium. The variegated Hollies, both silver and golden, are now
very numerous; among the best are argentea marginata, argentea pendula
(Perry's Silver Weeping), Golden Queen, Silver Queen, Handsworth
Silver, Golden King, flavescens, latifolia aureo-marginata,
Watereriana, aureo-medio picta, aureo-pendula.
Laburnum vulgare foliis aureis, all yellow.
Platanus acerifolia Süttneri, very pure white with scarcely any green on
late growth.
Populus deltoidea (canadensis) aurea, yellow.
Prunus cerasifera atropurpurea (P. Pissardi), lovely claret red when
young, becoming dull purple in summer.
Pyrus Malus neidwetzkyanus. In this Apple not only the leaves, but the
wood and fruit are purplish red.
,, Aria chrysophylla, yellow.
Quercus Cerris variegata, the white variegated Turkey Oak.
,, pedunculata Concordia, a lovely clear yellow, and seldom burns.
,, pedunculata purpurea, wholly red purple.
,, rubra, crimson.
Robinia Pseudacacia aurea, yellow.
Ulmus campestris, "Louis Van Houtte," the best Golden Elm.
,, campestris viminalis variegata, a charming white-variegated,
small-leaved Elm.
,, montana fastigiata aurea (U. Wredei aurea) should not be omitted.
A beautiful Elm for small gardens.
[Illustration: _ASHES_]
CONIFERS
Abies concolor violacea, glaucous blue.
Cedrus atlantica glauca, glaucous blue.
Cupressus lawsoniana; numerous varieties, of which gracilis pendula
aurea, lutea (very hardy), Silver Queen, and albo-variegata
may be mentioned.
,, nootkatensis lutea, yellow-tipped twigs.
,, obtusa aurea (Thujopsis borealis aurea), yellow.
,, obtusa nana aurea, dwarf yellow.
,, pisifera plumosa aurea, yellow.
,, macrocarpa lutea, the best yellow Conifer in mild districts.
Juniperus chinensis aurea, gold-tipped.
Picea orientalis argenteo-spica, young shoots pale yellow.
,, pungens glauca, the best "blue" Conifer.
Pinus sylvestris aurea, golden in winter, green in spring and summer.
Retinospora (_see_ Cupressus).
Taxus baccata aurea, "Golden Yew," _elegantissima_ and Golden
Irish. I was very pleased with the beautiful colouring of
natural golden hybrid forms in Messrs. Fisher, Son, & Sibray's
nursery at Handsworth. T. adpressa, Barroni, a. variegata,
small-growing, leaves edged with silver, and suffused with
yellow as winter approaches.
,, baccata fastigiata aurea, "Golden Irish Yew."
,, baccata semper-aurea, golden more or less throughout the winter.
,, Dovastoni aureo-variegata.
Thujopsis (_see_ Cupressus, p. 97).
Thuya (Biota) orientalis aurea, yellow in summer.
[Illustration: _THE LOMBARDY POPLAR._]
SHRUBS OR SMALL TREES
Acer palmatum atropurpureum, purple. There are many forms of this
Japanese Maple--cut-leaved, purple, and golden--but this is the
hardiest.
Aralia chinensis albo-variegata. This is one of the most promising new
variegated shrubs. It is sold as Dimorphanthus mandschuricus var.
variegatus.
Atriplex Halimus, silvery grey entirely.
Aucuba japonica, many forms, yellow or creamy white.
Berberis vulgaris foliis purpureis, one of the best purple shrubs.
Buxus sempervirens aurea, "Golden Box."
Corylus maxima atropurpurea, a dark-purple, very effective variety of
the Cob-nut.
Cornus Mas aurea elegantissima, yellow (of slow growth and not very
hardy).
,, Mas variegata, white.
,, siberica elegantissima.
,, Spaethii.
Elæagnus pungens aurea, one of the most beautiful variegated evergreens.
,, pungens variegata, white.
Euonymus japonicus albo-marginatus, very good for the south coast.
,, japonicus ovatus aureus, same as preceding, but yellow.
Ligustrum (Privet) ovalifolium foliis aureis, the best variegated shrub
for hedges and for rough usage.
Neillia opulifolia lutea, yellow in spring only.
Philadelphus coronarius foliis aureis, yellow in the spring and early
summer and very bright then, gradually gets green afterwards.
Ptelea trifoliata aurea, yellow.
Rhamnus Alaternus variegatus, white.
Rhus Cotinus atropurpureus, purple.
Symphoricarpus orbiculatus variegatus, yellow.
Sambucus nigra foliis aureis, yellow, retaining its colour well till
autumn.
,, racemosa plumosa aurea, a beautiful cut-leaved Golden Elder.
[Illustration: _CORSICAN PINE TREE WALK, 35 YEARS OLD._]
DWARF SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS
Acanthopanax spinosum variegatum, pretty, white-variegated, dwarf, and
slow-growing.
Arundinaria auricoma, the best yellow-variegated hardy Bamboo.
,, Fortunei, the best white-variegated hardy Bamboo.
Cornus alba Spaethii, probably the finest of all yellow-variegated
shrubs, never "scorching" in the hottest summers. It is very
handsome as pyramids, but by pruning a brighter coloured bark is
obtained.
Euonymus radicans, the white-variegated form of this plant is useful as
a carpet in shady positions where grass will not grow.
Ivy (Hedera Helix), numerous varieties, both shrubby and
climbing--arborescens variegata, chrysophylla, discolor, maderensis
variegata, sulphurea, canariensis argentea. E. radicans Silver gem is
a larger leaved form, purer white and altogether better than many
variegated Ivies.
Jasminum nudiflorum foliis aureis and officinale foliis aureis,
variegated climbers with yellow leaves; the latter is the more
ornamental, but is delicate in constitution.
Kerria japonica foliis variegatis, white.
Lonicera japonica aureo-reticulata. The veins of this climber are
beautifully "picked out" in gold.
Osmanthus Aquifolium ilicifolius variegatus, a holly-like,
white-variegated shrub useful in the milder parts of the kingdom.
Osmanthus Aquifolium purpureus, the hardiest of the Osmanthus. There
are two forms of this, one much darker than the other, and the darkest
is the best.
Pieris japonica variegata, white.
Ribes alpinum pumilum aureum, golden in spring.
Rubus ulmifolius variegatus, veins of the later leaves golden.
Salix repens argentea, a prostrate silvery-leaved Willow, makes a pretty
weeping shrub if trained up at first.
Santolina Chamæcyparissus, silvery white entirely.
Vitis heterophylla variegata, a pretty, blue-berried climber, but
tender; the variegation is rosy white.
,, inconstans purpurea, a purplish form of the popular "Ampelopsis
Veitchii."
,, vinifera purpurea, deep purple.
Vinca minor, white and yellow-marked forms.
[Illustration: _THE FAMOUS ARAUCARIA IMBRICATA AVENUE AT MURTHLY,
N.B._]
CHAPTER XIV
TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SEA-COAST
In planting trees and shrubs near the sea, two important matters must be
considered--(1) fierce gales; (2) salt spray. As a protection against
storms much may be done by planting quick-growing things, such as
Poplars and Willows, and in this sheltered area more permanent trees and
shrubs may be put. This way of planting for shelter where bleak places
are to be clothed with trees and shrubs is universally adopted in some
form or other, sometimes in the shape of hedges or belts, and in the
other cases the plants are all placed much thicker together than they
are to permanently remain, thus forming a compact mass against which the
wind makes little or no impression. In this last-named case continual
thinning will be necessary as they grow up, for if left too long the
plants become weak, and the advantage gained by the thicker planting is
then completely lost. A beautiful seaside shrub, and the best, too, for
forming shelter hedges of low or medium height is the Tamarisk, which
retains its freshness throughout the season till the autumn, however
much exposed to the sea.
It is difficult to make a list of trees and shrubs suitable for seaside
planting around the British Isles, as the coast-line is so varied, and
the action of the Gulf Stream has great influence on the vegetation of
many parts of our western coasts. As no hard and fast line can be drawn,
the first list contains those trees and shrubs that may be regarded as
thoroughly hardy, unless otherwise specified, and the second list those
that are available for planting in the Isle of Wight, in the south and
west of England, and in some parts of Ireland.
[Illustration: _MAIDENHAIR TREE (Ginkgo biloba syn. Salisburia
adiantifolia); FROGMORE._]
TREES
Acer platanoides (Norway Maple).
,, Pseudo-platanus (Sycamore).
Alnus (Alder) of sorts. Will thrive only in damp places.
Ash, Mountain. (See next page.)
Betula alba (Birch) and varieties.
Carpinus Betulus (Hornbeam).
Cerasus _see_ Prunus.
Cratægus (Thorn) of sorts.
Cupressus macrocarpa (Monterey Cypress). Of rapid growth.
Fagus sylvatica (Beech) and varieties.
Fraxinus excelsior (Common Ash). F. Ornus (Flowering Ash).
Ilex Aquifolium (Holly) and varieties.
Laburnum.
Pinus austriaca (Austrian Pine). One of the best Firs for bleak seaside
places.
,, contorta (Twisted Pine). A small tree.
,, insignis (Grass-green Pine). More tender than the others.
,, Laricio (Corsican Pine). Equal to the Austrian Pine for seaside.
,, muricata (Prickly-coned Pine). A dwarf tree.
,, Pinaster (Cluster Pine). Delights in the neighbourhood of the sea.
,, montana (Mountain Pine). A shrub or small tree.
Populus alba (Abele or White Poplar). All the Poplars grow quickly.
,, deltoidea (Canadian Poplar).
,, fastigiata (Lombardy Poplar).
,, nigra (Black Poplar).
Prunus Avium, cerasifera (Cherry Plum).
,, Mahaleb.
,, Padus (Bird Cherry).
,, Pissardi (Purple-leaved Plum).
Pyrus Aria (White Beam tree).
,, prunifolia (Siberian Crab).
,, Sorbus (Service tree).
Quercus Cerris (Turkey Oak). Good loam suits this best.
,, Ilex (Evergreen or Holm Oak).
Salix (Willow) of sorts. Prefer a moist soil.
Ulmus (Elm) of sorts, particularly Wych Elm and an Elm known as Wheatley
Elm.
[Illustration: _MAIDENHAIR TREE AT KEW._]
SHRUBS
Atriplex Halimus (Sea Purslane). Will grow close to the water.
Aucuba japonica (Aucuba). Few evergreens equal this.
Berberis (Barberry), Aquifolium, Darwinii, buxifolia, and stenophylla.
Buxus (Box) and its varieties.
Cistus Gum. Does well at Felixstowe, Suffolk.
Colutea arborescens (Bladder Senna). Will grow in very sandy soil.
Corylus Avellana (Hazel) and varieties.
Cotoneaster of sorts. All these are good for the purpose.
Cytisus (Broom) of sorts.
Daphne Laureola (Spurge Laurel). Will grow in shade.
Deutzia crenata, D. crenata flore-pleno, D. gracilis, D. Lemoinei.
Elæagnus of sorts. All of these are good.
Euonymus europæus and E. latifolius (Spindle trees), and the evergreen
E. japonicus and its varieties. This last is one of the most
valuable evergreens, but it is rather tender.
Ficus Carica (Common Fig).
Forsythia suspensa. A charming rambling shrub.
Fuchsias, particularly F. Riccartoni.
Halimodendron argenteum (Siberian Salt tree).
Hippophaë rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn). The finest seaside shrub or small
tree that we have; grows well in damp sands.
Leycesteria formosa.
Ligustrum (Privet) of sorts.
Lycium chinense (Box Thorn).
Olearia Haastii (Daisy bush).
Osmanthus ilicifolius and varieties.
Philadelphus (Mock Orange) of sorts.
Phillyræa angustifolia, latifolia, media, and vilmoriniana.
Prunus spinosa flore-pleno (Double-flowered Sloe).
,, Laurocerasus (Common Laurel).
,, lusitanica (Portugal Laurel).
Pyrus japonica (Japan Quince).
Ribes aureum (Golden-flowered Currant).
,, sanguineum (Flowering Currant) and varieties.
Rosa. The different wild Roses and Rosa rugosa.
Rubus (Bramble). The double-flowered and cut-leaved forms are very
ornamental.
Salix (Willow) of sorts. All prefer moist soil.
Sambucus (Elder) of sorts.
Skimmia japonica. Valuable for its bright-red berries.
Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom). Will grow almost anywhere.
Spiræa of sorts. There is a great variety of these beautiful flowering
shrubs.
Symphoricarpus racemosus (Snowberry).
Syringa (Lilac) of sorts.
Tamarix gallica and T. tetrandra. Delightful shrubs for seaside.
Ulex europæus (Furze or Gorse), with the double-flowered and dwarf
kinds.
Viburnum Opulus and V. Opulus sterile (Snowball tree).
Weigelas of sorts, particularly Abel Carrière, candida, and Eva Rathke.
For the west of England and other very mild districts the following may
be added:--
Aralia Sieboldii.
Arbutus Unedo (Strawberry tree).
Azara microphylla.
Benthamia fragifera.
Buddleia globosa.
Ceanothus of sorts.
Choisya ternata.
Desfontainea spinosa.
Escallonias of sorts.
Fabiana imbricata.
Fuchsias, hardy kinds.
Garrya elliptica.
Grevillea rosmarinifolia, G. sulphurea.
Griselinia littoralis.
Hydrangea Hortensia.
Laurus nobilis (Sweet Bay).
Myrtus communis (Myrtle).
Pittosporum crassifolium.
Rhamnus Alaternus and varieties.
Veronicas of sorts.
Viburnum Tinus (Laurustinus).
CHAPTER XV
TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WIND-SWEPT GARDENS
Few trees and shrubs are happy in bleak and exposed gardens. The
hardiest should be used to form a shelter belt, as every leaf and twig
helps to break the force of the wind, whereas solid obstacles, such as
walls, merely serve to divert its course. In planting spots much exposed
to the wind, put the trees much closer than it is intended they should
remain permanently, as the young plants serve to shelter one another,
and encourage, therefore, a quicker growth. When they get crowded,
gradually thin them out. The trees and shrubs should always come from
exposed nurseries, as the growth is stout and sturdy. Growth made in
warm valleys is more sappy. The following trees and shrubs can be
depended upon in most windy places:--
TREES
Acer platanoides (Norway Maple) and Acer Pseudo-platanus (Sycamore).
While not equal to some of the trees mentioned, these Maples do
well in many places and form a distinct feature.
Betula alba (Common Birch). An extremely graceful tree and a universal
favourite.
Cratægus Oxyacantha (Hawthorn). The principal effect of exposure is
to make the growth more stunted than would otherwise be the case.
Fagus sylvatica (Beech). Long recognised as a good shelter tree, its
value in this respect is increased by the fact that many leaves
often shrivel on the branches instead of dropping, thus giving
additional protection in winter.
Fraxinus Excelsior (Ash). The wide-spreading roots of this anchor it
securely in position, and the leaves do not weigh down the branches
to any great extent.
Ilex Aquifolium (Holly). Though of slow growth when young, this, when
once established, grows away freely and is indifferent to wind.
Larix europæa (Larch). This is well known as a nurse tree for bleak
places.
Picea (Abies) excelsa (Norway Spruce). One of our commonest Conifers,
hence it is often used as a nurse tree for choicer subjects.
Pinus austriaca (Austrian Fir). The best of all evergreens for bleak
places; Pinus Cembra (Swiss Stone Pine), of slow growth, but very
ornamental, and does not mind the wind.
Pinus Laricio (Corsican Pine, or Black Pine). As indifferent to exposure
as P. austriaca, P. montana (dwarf), and P. sylvestris (Scotch Fir),
a well-known native, which often crowns high hill-tops.
Populus alba (Abele), P. fastigiata (Lombardy Poplar), P. deltoidea
(Canadian Poplar), P. nigra (Black Poplar), and P. tremula (Aspen).
In low-lying districts all these Poplars are of rapid growth, but in
exposed places they make much slower progress. Even then they grow
quicker than most shelter plants, and are valuable for making an
effective display more quickly than some of the more permanent
subjects. These can all be readily cut back within reasonable limits
if desired.
Quercus Robur (Oak).
Robinia Pseudacacia. The false Acacia is one of the best town trees we
have; indeed, it does well almost everywhere.
Salix alba (White Willow). This will pass unscathed through fierce
storms. In fairly dry spots the rate of progress is much slower than
in moister soil, but, as a set-off, the silvery hue of the foliage
is more pronounced.
Ulmus (Elm). The best of the Elms for this purpose is the Wych Elm, and
one known as the Wheatley is also good.
[Illustration: _VARIETY TENUIFOLIA OF CORSICAN PINE (Pinus Laricio)._]
SHRUBS
Atriplex Halimus (Sea Purslane). A silvery-leaved, free-growing shrub,
indifferent to soil or situation.
Berberis (the Barberry). The best of these are the strong-growing
Berberis aristata, and the common Berberis vulgaris, with its
several varieties.
Colutea arborescens (Bladder Senna). The golden flowers in early summer
and the large inflated seed-pods in autumn are both attractive.
Cotoneaster buxifolia, Nummularia, and Simonsii. These are all pretty
berry-bearing shrubs.
Cytisus albus (White Broom), Cytisus scoparius (Yellow Broom), and its
varieties.
Deutzia crenata flore-pleno. A handsome flowering shrub and the most
robust of its class.
Euonymus europæus (Spindle tree). The fruits of this are very ornamental
in the autumn.
Halimodendron argenteum (Siberian Salt Bush). A pretty rambling shrub,
with silvery leaves.
Juniperus communis and J. Sabina (Savin). The fact that these Junipers
are evergreen is a point in their favour.
Ligustrum ovalifolium, ovalifolium elegantissimum, and vulgare. These
Privets are well known for planting where the conditions are none
too favourable.
Lycium chinense (Box Thorn). A rambling shrub holding its own almost
anywhere.
[Illustration: _AVENUE OF ABIES NOBILIS GLAUCA AT MADRESFIELD COURT._
(_The avenue is quarter-mile long, planted in 1868; average height of
trees 60 feet and 45 feet apart._)]
Osmanthus of sorts. Holly-like evergreen shrubs.
Philadelphus coronarius (Mock Orange). Though less showy than some
others, this is decidedly the hardiest.
Phillyræa decora (vilmoriniana). A valuable evergreen with deep-green,
leathery leaves.
Pinus (Mountain Pine). This member of the Fir family is but a shrub in
stature. It is at home in bleak spots.
Potentilla fruticosa (Shrubby Cinquefoil). A low shrub that produces its
golden blossoms in July and August.
Prunus Laurocerasus rotundifolia. One of the hardiest forms of the
Common Laurel.
Rosa canina (Dog Rose) and Rosa rubiginosa (Sweetbriar) are general
favourites.
Rubus (Bramble). The cut-leaved, the double white, and double pink are
ornamental.
Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom). However bleak, this will produce its
comparatively large pea-shaped blossoms throughout the summer.
Staphylea pinnata (Bladder Nut). The bladder-like seed-capsules are
striking in the autumn.
Symphoricarpus racemosus (Snowberry). Grows anywhere, and produces its
large white berries in great profusion.
Ulex europæa (Common Furze). The double form of this is remarkably
showy.
Viburnum Opulus (Guelder Rose). A pretty native shrub.
[Illustration: _CEDRUS ATLANTICA GLAUCA AVENUE AT MADRESFIELD COURT._
(_Avenue is about quarter-mile long, planted in 1866. All seedling
trees, hence some difference in growth and colour._)]
CHAPTER XVI
CONIFERS (INCLUDING PINES) IN ORNAMENTAL PLANTING
Those who take a serious interest in their gardens and other planted
grounds are so rapidly acquiring a better comprehension of the art in
its wider aspects, and are so willingly receptive of further suggestion,
that we emphasise a lesson that we have often tried to teach, namely,
the importance of planting in large groups of one thing at a time, and
of a right choice.
There is no more common mistake made than that of planting just the
wrong things in the wrong places. Thus we see plantations of Spruce on
dry, sandy hill-tops, from whence the poor trees must look with longing
eyes to their true home in the moist, alluvial soil of the valley-bottom
below. In mixed plantations we see Conifers from many climes and all
altitudes, all expected to do equally well in perhaps one small space of
garden ground. If in a projected plantation there is space for only
fifty trees, how much better it would be first to ascertain which out of
a few kinds would be best suited to the soil and general conditions of
the place, and then out of this selection to choose the one that best
fits the planter's own liking and will be most in harmony with the
further planting scheme that he has in view. In this way he will
obtain that unity of effect that alone can make a garden or piece of
planted ground pictorial and restful, and enable to serve as a becoming
setting to the brightly-coloured flowering plants that will then show
their proper value as jewels of the garden.
[Illustration: _LIBOCEDRUS DECURRENS AT FROGMORE (about 65 feet high)._]
In this restrained and sober use of trees, and especially of Conifers,
it is well to plant them of several ages, the youngest to the outer
edges of the groups. If there is plenty of space it will be all the
better to plant the trees in hundreds rather than in fifties, or in any
case in spaces large enough to see one whole picture of one good tree at
a time. Where such a planting was wisely made from forty to sixty years
ago how fine the effect is to-day, as in the case of the grand growth of
Douglas Firs at Murthly. No one seeing so fine an example of the use of
one tree at a time could wish that the plantation had been mixed, or
could be otherwise than deeply impressed with the desirability of the
plan.
One such large group can always be made to merge into another by
intergrouping at the edges, beginning by an isolated tree of group B in
the further portion of group A, then a group of two or three of B, until
the process is reversed and the group is all of B, with single ones of A
giving place to all B. There is no reason why the same principle should
not be used with two or three kinds of combined grouping, but then it
should be of trees harmonious among themselves, as of Spruce and Silver
Fir, or of such things as represent the natural mixture of indigenous
growth. Thus the Yew, Box, Viburnum, Dogwood, Privet, and Thorn of a
wild chalky waste might be taken as a guide to planting some of these
with nearly allied foreign kinds. But the important thing in all such
planting is to have the satisfactory restfulness and beauty of harmony
that can only be obtained by the right and limited choice of material.
Although a few Conifers are deciduous, such as the Maidenhair tree
(_Ginkgo biloba_), _Taxodium distichum_, the Golden Larch (_Pseudolarix
Kæmpferi_), and the true Larches, the great bulk of the family consists
of evergreens. It is to the Coniferæ, indeed, that belong the only hardy
evergreen trees which in stature and size rival the large deciduous
trees of cool temperate latitudes. Although our only native Conifers are
the Yew, the Scotch Pine, and the Juniper, there is a sufficient variety
of soil and climate within the limits of the British Isles to provide
suitable conditions for nearly the whole of the family. It is only a few
sub-tropical species that cannot be accommodated. This does not imply
that the whole of the hardy Conifers can be grown satisfactorily in any
one place. In even the best Conifer localities there are some species
that will not reach perfection, and in the general run of gardens there
is a considerable proportion of species about which the same must be
said. This fact, however, has often been overlooked.
The extreme popularity of Conifers, which was at its height from forty
to fifty years ago, undoubtedly led to the enriching of the parks and
gardens of this country with what are now, in many instances,
magnificent specimens. To realise how great that enrichment was, one has
only to mention such places as Dropmore, Murthly Castle, Ochtertyre. But
Conifer planting, from both artistic and merely cultural points of view,
was overdone. Conifers began to fill an undue proportion of space in
gardens, and displaced to a large extent the beautiful flower-bearing
deciduous vegetation whose seasonable variations give such charm and
interest. With all their symmetry and richness of hue, the popular
species of Abies and Picea often have a heavy, even sombre, aspect.
Heavy masses of Pine, Spruce, and Fir can never give that changing
aspect in the landscape that comes with deciduous vegetation. The tender
tints of spring, the flowers, the gold and purple of autumn, it is to
these that the seasons of our northern latitudes owe their greatest
delights.
Perhaps the worst of all the uses to which Conifers have been put is
that of forming long avenues across parks. It is difficult to understand
the frame of mind that would prefer rows of _Araucaria_, _Abies
nobilis_, or other similar things--however well grown and pyramidal they
might be--to a noble vista of Chestnut, Oak, or Lime, with its canopy of
branch and foliage overhead. Conifers can, however, be used effectively
for forming short avenues within the garden itself, especially in the
more trimly-kept parts.
The practice that is frequently adopted of forming a pinetum and
bringing together the members of this family in one part of the grounds
is a very good one. It is far better than sprinkling them
indiscriminately over the whole garden. At the same time, where
sufficient space is not available for the formation of a pinetum they
may be used in their proper proportion with other evergreens in various
parts of the garden. Single specimens on lawns of Abies, Picea, and of
many other genera are always effective, and nothing in the whole range
of native or foreign trees is more stately and picturesque than the
Cedar of Lebanon. How much do we of the present day owe to those who a
century or more ago planted this tree so abundantly in this country!
Before planting Conifers largely in any garden where they are to be
grown for their purely ornamental qualities, a study should be made of
the species planted in other gardens where the conditions as to soil,
moisture, and altitude are similar. On the peaty formations in Surrey
and Hampshire where Rhododendrons succeed so well, many Conifers thrive
exceedingly well also. The Common Spruce and its allies are nearly all
failures on light dry soil, especially where the subsoil is gravel. In
places, however, where the Spruces fail, the Common Larch and the Lawson
Cypress succeed well. In chalk districts many Conifers refuse to grow,
but the following are among those that thrive: _Abies magnifica_, _A.
nobilis_, _A. nordmanniana_, and _A. Pinsapo_, the Cedars, _Cupressus
lawsoniana_, _C. macrocarpa_, and _C. nootkatensis_, the Maidenhair
tree, the Junipers, the Thuyas, the Yews, and the following Pines:
_Pinus Laricio_ and _P. austriaca_, the Scotch Pine, _P. excelsa_, and
_P. Pinaster_. Most of the Pines, too, are happy on gravelly or stony
ground.
None of the Silver Firs (_Abies_) or Spruces (_Picea_) are good trees
for planting at the seaside, unless there is sufficient shelter to break
the force of the wind, and even then there are very few that will
succeed. The species most suitable for planting where there is a thick
outer belt are _Abies nobilis_, _A. concolor_, _A. nordmanniana_, and
_A. pectinata_, the Common Silver Fir. Of the Spruces, _Picea nigra_ and
_P. alba_, the North American Spruces, succeed better than the Norway
Spruce, _P. excelsa_, but these, like the Silver Firs, must have the
shelter of a good wind break; _Picea pungens_, _P. pungens glauca_, and
_P. Engelmanni_ will not succeed in exposed places, even in inland
localities, and fail entirely by the sea. There is a difference of
opinion about _Engelmanni_. In some places it seems to stand winds well.
The Conifers that will thrive by the sea are very few, and probably not
more than half-a-dozen kinds can be trusted. The finest of all is
undoubtedly _Pinus Pinaster_, which is essentially a sea-coast Pine,
revelling in storms and sprays. For warmer parts, is the Aleppo Pine
(_P. halepensis_), but is only for southern and warm coasts. _P.
insignis_ is somewhat tender, but stands the sea gales fairly well, and
_P. austriaca_, and its relative, _P. Laricio_, are both excellent,
specially for making the first barrier against the winds. The hardy
Scotch Pine (_P. sylvestris_), if planted in large masses, grows well,
but does not luxuriate close to the sea, and is especially liable to be
browned in foliage by the salt spray.
Besides the Pines, one of the finest of Conifers is the Monterey Cypress
(_Cupressus macrocarpa_), which is hardy everywhere on the coast in
these islands; it grows finer than it does in its home on the Pacific
coast. It makes a fine front barrier against the wind, especially when
mixed with the foregoing Pines. The variety _C. lambertiana_ is also
excellent. There are two other Conifers which, though not much planted
by the sea-coast, will, we believe, prove reliable; these are _Cedrus
atlantica_ and _Thuya gigantea_ (sometimes called _T. Lobbii_). A third
Conifer that we have seen doing well by the sea is _Abies Pinsapo_, but
it must have a temporary shelter in its small state. This subject of
seaside planting--the most difficult in a tree planter's practice--is an
important one, and it is only possible to treat the matter generally.
The Conifer family is especially noteworthy for the way many of its
species vary. Not only is this propensity evidenced in such characters
as the colour of the leaf and the differences in habit; it shows itself
more remarkably sometimes in the form and texture of the leaf and mode
of branching. So great is the difference between some forms of certain
species of Conifers that they have been placed in different genera. What
are generally known as Retinosporas, for instance, are really nothing
more than forms, "states" the botanists term them, assumed by various
species of Thuya and Cupressus. Strictly speaking, _Retinospora_ has no
separate existence as a genus. This, however, is a botanical phase of
the matter. Horticulturally we are more concerned with such variations
as adapt the plants to various garden purposes. Many quaint and dainty
forms of large trees are very suitable for the rock-garden in
association with other alpine plants. The Common Spruce, for instance,
has given birth to many pigmy forms. The Yew, the Scotch Pine, and
various others have "sported" in a similar way. But no hardy tree varies
so much, perhaps, as the Lawson Cypress when raised from seed. The
species has assumed almost every shade of colour that Conifers do
assume, and every form of growth. Beautiful golden, variegated,
pendulous, and erect varieties have been raised, and not only from the
Lawson Cypress, but from many other Conifers also. The Golden Yews, the
yellow form of the Monterey Cypress, and the golden variety of the
Scotch Pine, may be recommended to those who require this colour,
although in the Pine it only shows itself in winter. The blue-white or
glaucous hue that is more or less present in most Conifers, shows itself
most conspicuously in the Blue Spruce (_Picea pungens glauca_), in
_Cedrus atlantica glauca_, in the new Cork Fir from Arizona (_Abies
lasiocarpa var. arizonica_), and in _Abies concolor violacea_.
THE PROPAGATION OF CONIFERS
Many mistakes have been made in propagating the Coniferæ, and to make
matters still worse, the old erroneous doctrines are still preached and
practised. The unpopularity of certain species of Abies, Picea, and
Pinus is due to a great extent to the practice of grafting them on
unsuitable stocks. For instance, the species of Abies are worked on _A.
pectinata_, of Picea on _P. excelsa_, and of Pinus on _P. sylvestris_ or
_P. Laricio_. The varieties of _P. excelsa_ are worked on that species.
_P. excelsa_ is _not_ used for the other forms of spruce Firs to any
great extent. In addition to this, such methods and stocks are still
spoken of as the correct ones to use; though, to take one genus alone,
what kind of a specimen _Abies bracteata_, _A. nobilis_, or _A.
concolor_ would make in twenty years' time if worked on _A. pectinata_
we should not like to say--certainly very poor, even if they lived,
which is doubtful. These are nearly always raised from imported seeds.
It may be laid down as a law that _species_ of Coniferæ should never be
grafted but raised from seed, which can always be obtained through
English firms. With varietal forms of Coniferæ that will not come true
from seed or that cannot be struck as cuttings, grafting must be
resorted to, and if young plants of the type species are used as stocks
the results will be fairly satisfactory. In the case of some of the more
highly variegated Cupressus, &c., grafting is really the best method of
propagation, as these forms are mostly of weak constitution and are not
satisfactory from cuttings. In the following list the best methods of
propagation are given with each genus, together with special mention of
those forms which are of indifferent growth though not difficult to
propagate:--
JUNIPERUS.--The Junipers should be raised from seeds, though some of
them do fairly well if propagated by cuttings. The green and glaucous
varieties of _J. chinensis_, _J. excelsa_, _J. virginiana_, and _J.
communis_ root easily from cuttings, or can be layered with success. The
variegated forms are best grafted on stocks of the species they belong
to, and _J. Sabina_ (the Savin) and its varieties are easily raised from
cuttings or layers, the latter being a very easy way of propagating
them.
CUPRESSUS.--This genus is divided into two sections, viz., the true
Cypresses, represented by _C. macrocarpa_, _C. sempervirens_, &c., and
Chamæcyparis, of which _Cupressus lawsoniana_ is the best known species.
With the former section seeds are the best means of reproducing the
species, while the few varieties should be grafted on stocks of the
parent species. The handsome _C. macrocarpa var. lutea_ especially
should be worked on the type, as it is practically a failure from
cuttings, and if grafted on _C. lawsoniana_, as is sometimes done, it
makes a short, stumpy bush instead of a typically tall columnar tree. In
the Chamæcyparis section _Cupressus lawsoniana_, _C. nootkatensis_, _C.
obtusa_, _C. pisifera_, and _C. thyoides_ are the only species, though
there are a host of varieties attached to them, the forms of the three
latter species, in fact, including all the various plants more commonly
known under the generic title of Retinospora. The species should be
raised from seed, which is easily obtainable and germinates readily, or
in default they will root from cuttings. The varieties, with a few
exceptions, are quickly propagated by cuttings, those that require to be
grafted being _C. lawsoniana var. lutea_, the variegated forms of _C.
nootkatensis_, and _C. obtusa vars. nana_, _nana aurea_, and _filifera
aurea_. The forms of _C. thyoides_ also do well when raised from layers.
We must not omit also such varieties of _C. lawsoniana_ as _Fraseri_,
_Allumi_, and one known in nurseries as Milford Blue Jacket.
THUYA.--These are propagated in much the same way as the Cupressus,
viz., the species by seeds, and the varieties by cuttings or by grafting
in the case of the one or two highly variegated forms. Some of the green
or glaucous varieties of both Cupressus and Thuya will come fairly true
from seed, from 40 per cent. to 70 per cent. being the usual quantity of
seedlings true to name. Variegated forms from seed either come green or
a mongrel mixture of green and variegated.
LIBOCEDRUS.--This should be raised from seed, as when grafted on _Thuya
orientalis_--a too common method of propagation--it makes a miserable
specimen. The middle pair of scales in the cone of Libocedrus alone
contain fertile seeds. _L. doniana_ is a tender species.
SCIADOPITYS and TAXODIUM.--These can only be propagated by seeds, and
the young plants should have a fairly moist position with plenty of
leaf-mould or peat to grow in afterwards.
SEQUOIA.--The two species of Sequoia should be raised from seed, and the
three or four varieties be grafted on the type species.
CRYPTOMERIA.--This only contains one species, viz., _C. japonica_, which
can only be obtained from seed, or by cuttings; and the varieties root
readily as cuttings, though one or two of the weaklier ones do better if
grafted on _C. japonica_.
ARAUCARIA.--Propagate by seeds, which, though sometimes difficult to
obtain, germinate freely and quickly.
TSUGA.--The Hemlock Spruces are easily and quickly obtained from seeds,
and one or two will strike from cuttings; the varieties do best when
grafted on the species they belong to, though _T. pattoniana var.
glauca_, more commonly known as _Abies hookeriana_, will come fairly
true from seed, about 75 per cent. being the usual quantity if the seed
is obtained from good plants.
PICEA.--This genus has been mentioned before as being commonly grafted
on _P. excelsa_ (the Common Spruce), which is an easy way of obtaining
young plants, which, however, cannot be recommended to form good
specimens in after years. The species of Picea should all be raised from
seed, and the many named varieties of _P. excelsa_ should be grafted on
the parent species. At least one-half the plants of _P. Engelmanni var.
glauca_ and _P. pungens var. glauca_ (the Californian Blue Spruce) will
be found true to name when raised from seeds, while their superiority
afterwards over grafted plants is evident.
CEDRUS, LARIX, AND PSEUDOLARIX.--It should always be remembered that
these three are quite distinct genera, and for purposes of propagation
should never be used in conjunction with each other, the first being
evergreen and the two latter deciduous. The species of all three should
be raised from seed; the varieties of Cedrus should be grafted on that
genus, the forms of Larix on the Larch, though the geographical forms of
the Common Larch, such as _var. rossica_ and _var. sibirica_, usually
come true from seed. _Larix leptolepis_ (Japanese Larch) is one of the
most beautiful trees ever introduced from Japan; it is charming both in
summer and winter. _Pseudolarix Kæmpferi_ (Golden Larch), the only
representative of the genus, must be raised from seed; it is generally
raised by grafting in February under glass on stocks of the common
Larch.
ABIES.--In this genus some of the most handsome Conifers are found, and
also some of the most difficult to grow. All the Abies should be
propagated by seeds, but if seed of the varieties cannot be obtained
then they must be grafted on the parent species.
PSEUDOTSUGA.--This genus only contains one species, viz., _P. Douglasii_
(the Douglas Fir), which is propagated readily by seed, the seedlings
being of rapid growth and soon form good plants. The few varieties are
grafted on the type, though the majority will come fairly true from
seed, which, however, is not always to be obtained.
PINUS.--Perhaps no Conifer adds so much to the beauty of the landscape
in winter as the Pine. All the species should be raised from seeds, and
any green or glaucous varieties can also be propagated in the same way
if seeds can be obtained. The golden, dwarf, and variegated Pines must
be grafted on the species they are varieties of.
TAXACEÆ.--This group is usually associated with Coniferæ, from which it
differs chiefly by the seed being nearly or quite enclosed in a fleshy
envelope instead of in a cone, the fruit of some resembling a small
Plum, but a typical fruit is seen in that of the Common Yew. The hardy
genera are _Ginkgo biloba_ (the Maidenhair tree), which is propagated
from seed--the plant is deciduous and slow growing; Cephalotaxus and
Torreya are propagated by seeds, cuttings, or layers.
TAXUS (the Yew).--There are only three or four species of Taxus, but
there are a great many varieties of the Common Yew, many being very
handsome. The species are easily raised from seeds, layers, or cuttings.
The first two methods are the best, cuttings being very slow in growth,
but as seed is very plentiful in most years this is the quickest and
best means of propagation. Some of the varieties will come true from
seed; the Irish Yew, however, must be struck from cuttings, as seedlings
never come true. The more highly variegated Yews grow quickest when
grafted on the Common Yew, and as they always keep good in after years
this method can for once be recommended. A very good species for a lawn
is _T. cuspidata_; it is strong in growth and spreading.
Propagate PRUMNOPITYS and SAXEGOTHEA by seeds, cuttings, or layers.
CONIFERS AT MURTHLY CASTLE, PERTHSHIRE
[Illustration: _AVENUE OF ANCIENT YEWS AT MURTHLY._]
The following account of a great Conifer garden in Scotland is
important, as showing how certain of the better-known species have
behaved during the last fifty years or so. It is taken from the _Garden_
of May 19, 1900:--
The second quarter of the present century saw the introduction of a
large number of Conifers hitherto unknown to English gardens. Their
cultivation was eagerly taken up, and especially in Scotland, a land
whose general conditions seem highly favourable to a considerable number
of species, much success has been attained. It may still be premature to
state with any degree of assurance what may be the ultimate suitability
of many of these Conifers for growth in our islands. The lifetime of a
tree is not comprised within its first sixty years, and such a length of
time is all too short to prove the ultimate success of any new tree,
though within that space it may come to a magnificent size and apparent
promise. Such a state is shown by the splendid Douglas Firs in the
grounds of Murthly Castle, Perthshire, where also many another exotic
Conifer is grown in quantity.
These words of Sir William Thiselton-Dyer, that formed part of his
opening address on the second day of the Conifer conference of the Royal
Horticultural Society in 1891, may here be quoted:--
"Any one who had not travelled in Scotland could form no idea of the
extent to which rare Conifers were cultivated in that country, and the
splendid development which they attained. The chairman, by way of
illustrating these remarks, directed the attention of the audience to
some large photographs representing specimens of Coniferæ to be seen at
Murthly Castle, Perthshire, where they flourished, and where stately and
magnificent examples 70 feet, 80 feet, and 100 feet high were to be met
with. Such trees could only be seen in Scotland, and were the result of
a peculiar association of physical conditions. In the south-west of
England it was impossible to find a parallel, though even on the
sunburnt soil of Kew good specimens of the Pines proper were
occasionally to be seen. With regard to the Abies, however--that section
of Conifers of which the Spruces may be taken as a type--a state of
things prevailed in Scotland which could not be rivalled in England. On
the other hand, the climate in the south-west of the latter country was
fairly suitable for some other Conifers, and many of the fine Mexican
Pines could be grown there."
Of the remarkable Douglas Fir at Dropmore, Mr. Charles Herrin on the
same occasion says: "The monarch Douglas Fir, planted in 1830, has
attained a height of 120 feet, girth of trunk 11 feet 9 inches, with
beautiful spreading branches sweeping the ground, covering a diameter of
64 feet. The leaves are also of a glaucous hue, equalling in that
respect many of the plants now sold from nurseries under the name of
_Douglasi glauca_.... Many trees have since been raised from its seeds
and planted out on the estate; one, planted in 1843, is now 78 feet
high, with a girth of trunk of 8 feet 2 inches, spreading 39 feet in
diameter at base; a perfect specimen."
By comparing the growth of the latter tree with the Murthly table, it
will be seen that the trees make their growth much more rapidly in
Scotland. The Murthly Conifers were all planted by Sir William and Sir
Douglas Stewart. The present owner, Mr. Steuart Fothringham, who
measured the trees in 1891 in anticipation of the visit of the Scottish
Arboricultural Society, on learning that we should be glad to know their
increase of growth since that date, has been so good as to have the same
trees measured again, the increase being shown by the subjoined table on
p. 128.
Mr. Fothringham also furnishes the following remarks: "The measurements
were all carefully taken by sending men or boys up the trees, not by
dendrometers, and are, I believe, correct. There are something like
eighty or a hundred different varieties growing at Murthly, but some of
them are young and only experiments. Those measured and noted are the
most striking; they are nearly all growing in large numbers. The remarks
appended to the table are made by Mr. James Laurie, the gardener, who
knows Conifers well. The only additional notes I have made are the
following: _Picea sitchensis_ will never, in my opinion, supplant the
Spruce. _Picea orientalis_ is not as free-growing as the Spruce, but
quite as hardy. _Araucaria imbricata._--Many of these were damaged by
severe frost. _Cedrus Deodara_ will not, in my opinion, live to great
age in our climate. _Cupressus thyoides._--This particular tree was so
much broken by branches blown off its neighbour that I cut it down.
_Pinus monticola_ has been attacked by a parasitic growth that is likely
to destroy all the young growth and probably the trees. _Juniperus
recurva_ was severely injured by the hard frost. By the hard frost I
mean the winter of 1894-5. In February 1895, the thermometer was for
several days below 0 Fahr., and on one night went to 11° below 0. This
shows that all these trees will stand great cold at the time of year
that it is likely to come, but late frosts in spring, when the sap has
begun to rise, are detrimental to the young shoots of those that start
their growth early in the season. There are at Murthly, besides
Coniferæ, fine specimens of Yews, Oaks, Beech, Spanish Chestnut, Horse
Chestnut, and Sycamore."
Key:
A - Height.
B - Girth at 5 feet.
C - Spread of Branches.
---------------------------------------+-------------------+--------------------
| August 11, 1892. | March 24, 1900.
+------+------+-----+-------+------+-----
| A | B | C | A | B | C
+------+------+-----+-------+------+-----
Wellingtonia, planted 1857[a] | 66.6 | 9.3 | 26 | 74.11| 10.7 | 28
Picea sitchensis, planted 1845[b] | 91.9 | 9.7 | 45 | 105.10| 11.3 | ...
Pinus monticola, planted 1850[c] | 67 | 5.6 | 18 | 79.2 | 6.2 | 22
Araucaria imbricata, planted 1847[d] | 42.6 | 4 | 9 | 51 | 4.8 | 9.8
Abies Pinsapo, planted 1847 | 34.8 | 6.6 | ...| 42.6 | 7.10| ...
,, magnifica, planted 1867 | 31.9 | 2.7 | 9 | 43.3 | 3.8 | 11
Pseudotsuga Douglasi, planted 1847[e] | 86.6 | 8.10| 24 | 97.4 | 9.10| 27
Abies grandis, planted 1852 | 64.2 | 4.8 | 22.6| 79.10| 6.10| 35.8
Tsuga albertiana, planted 1860 | 56 | 5.5 | 32 | 72.1 | 6.4 | 40
Abies nobilis, planted 1847 | 75.4 | 6.1 | ...| 92.8 | 6.6 | ...
,, nordmanniana, planted 1854 | 58.6 | 4 | ...| 74 | 4.9 | ...
Tsuga hookeriana, planted 1862[f] | 30 | 4 | 15 | 39.6 | 4 | 15.4
Cedrus Deodara, planted 1842[g] | 51.3 | 6.8 | 26 | 61.2 | 7.4 | 36
,, Libani[h] | 65.10| 11.8 | ...| 67 | 12.5 | ...
Cryptomeria japonica, planted 1852 | 36.3 | 4.2 | 26 | 41.7 | 4.3 | ...
Libocedrus decurrens[i] | 34.8 | 3.6 | 10 | 38 | 4.5 | 14
Thuya gigantea, planted 1862 | 46 | 3.6 | 21 | 57 | 3.7 | ...
Cupressus lawsoniana, planted 1859[j] | ... | ... | ...| 48.7 | 4.2 | ...
Spanish Chestnut | ... | ... | ...| ... | 17.10| ...
,, ,, [k] | ... | ... | ...| ... | 19.2 | ...
Silver Fir[l] | ... | ... | ...| 90 | 11.3 | ...
Cupressus lawsoniana erecta viridis | ... | ... | ...| 25 | 2.8 | 7
Picea ajanensis, planted 1885 | ... | ... | ...| 24 | 1.7 | 10.6
Abies brachyphylla, planted 1885[m] | ... | ... | ...| 14 | ... | 9.7
,, Veitchii, planted 1885[n] | ... | ... | ...| 20.9 | 1.4 | 10.2
,, amabilis, planted 1885 | ... | ... | ...| 14.11| ... | 9.5
,, concolor violacea, planted 1885 | ... | ... | ...| 20.1 | 1.5 | 14.9
English Yew[o] | ... | ... | ...| 30 | 14.3 | 80
English Yew | ... | ... | ...| ... | 10.8 | ...
Tsuga albertiana (at Roman Bridge)[p] | ... | ... | ...| 75 | 4.3 | ...
Picea orientalis, planted 1852 | 30 | 2.7 | ...| 49 | 3 | ...
,, morinda, planted 1857 | 47 | ... | ...| ... | ... | ...
Pinus Jeffreyi | ... | ... | ...| 57 | 4.9 | ...
---------------------------------------+------+------+-----+-------+------+-----
FOOTNOTES:
[a] At the ground this tree measures 16.9; cones freely.
[b] There are six others about the same size, and all are growing
freely.
[c] Most of these have lately got a fungoid disease, viz., peridendrum.
[d] Many of these lost branches, and some were killed by frost in
1894-5. They cone freely, and young ones are growing from seed.
[e] A great many others about the same size, and all perfectly healthy.
[f] A beautiful tree quite distinct from the others; long, drooping
branches.
[g] About sixty trees growing in the grounds averaging 50 cubic feet.
[h] Age unknown, but probably not less than 150 years.
[i] Probably thirty-five to forty years of age.
[j] Two trees, recently taken out, measured 12 cubic feet and 14 cubic
feet.
[k] At ground this tree measures 29 feet.
[l] Inclined to go back.
[m] Will become a handsome tree. Coned last year. Some fertile.
[n] Very apt to lose its leader either by birds or wind. Coned last
year.
[o] Very old; possibly 500 years. Many others of the same age and size.
[p] Quite a different form from the others, the lower branches being
quite table-form.
CHAPTER XVII
CARE OF OLD TREES
The charm of many an estate is not the garden or the woodland, but the
monarchs that for years have weathered the winter storm and stand out as
noble specimens of their family. Often there are fine trees of rarer
species which their owners naturally wish to preserve from decay as long
as possible. Belonging to this class are numerous specime
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