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Adventures in the Philippine Islands

by Paul P. de La Gironière · English · Gutenberg #30347 · 490,225 chars · public domain (US)

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Title: Adventures in the Philippine Islands

Author: Paul P. de La Gironière


        
Release date: October 27, 2009 [eBook #30347]
                Most recently updated: October 24, 2024

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS ***

                               Adventures
                                 in the
                          Philippine Islands.


                     Translated from the French of

                        Paul P. de la Gironiere,

            Chevalier of the Order of the Legion of Honour.


                  Revised and extended by the author,
                      Expressly for this edition.

            London: Charles H. Clarke, 13, Paternoster Row.






PREFACE.


On hearing a recital of some adventures which had occurred to me
during my long voyages, many of my friends have frequently begged of
me to publish a narrative of them, which might perhaps be interesting.

"Nothing can be more easy for you," they said, "as you have always
kept a journal since your departure from France."

I hesitated, however, to follow their advice, or to yield to their
wishes, when I was one day surprised to see my name in one of the
feuilletons in the "Constitutionnel."

M. Alexandre Dumas was publishing, under the title of "The
Thousand-and-One Phantoms," a romance, one of the principal personages
of which, in a voyage to the Philippine Islands, must have known me
when I was residing at Jala-Jala, in the colony that I founded there.

It must be evident that the lively romancist has ranked me in the
category of his Thousand-and-One Phantoms; but, to prove to the public
that I am really in existence, I have resolved to take up the pen,
under an impression, that facts of the most scrupulous veracity,
and which can be attested by some hundreds of persons, might possess
some interest, and be read without ennui, by those especially who
are desirous of learning the customs of the savage tribes amongst
whom I have resided.






CHAPTER I.

    A Family Sketch--My Youthful Days--I Study for the Medical
    Profession--Obtain a Naval Surgeon's Diploma--Early Voyages--Sail
    for Manilla in the Cultivateur--Adventurous Habits--Cholera and
    Massacre at Manilla and Cavite--Captain Drouant's Rescue--Personal
    Dangers and Timely Escapes--How Business may make Friends of
    one's Enemies--An Unprincipled Captain--Tranquility restored at
    Manila--Pleasures of the Chase--The Cultivateur sails without
    me--First Embarrassments.


My father was born at Nantes, and held the rank of captain in the
regiment of Auvergne. The Revolution caused him the loss of his
commission and his fortune, and left him, as sole remaining resource,
a little property called La Planche, belonging to my mother, and
situated about two leagues from Nantes, in the parish of Vertoux.

At the commencement of the Empire he wished to enter the service again;
but at that period his name was an obstacle, and he failed in every
attempt to obtain even the rank of lieutenant. With scarcely the means
of existence, he retired to La Planche with his family. There he lived
for some years, suffering the grief and the many annoyances caused
by the sudden change from opulence to want, and by the impossibility
of supplying all the requirements of his numerous family. A short
illness terminated his distressed existence, and his mortal remains
were deposited in the cemetery of Vertoux. My mother, a pattern
of courage and devotedness, remained a widow, with six children,
two girls and four boys; she continued to reside in the country,
imparting to us the first elements of instruction.

The free life of the fields, and the athletic exercises to which
my elder brothers and I accustomed ourselves, tended to make me
hardy, and rendered me capable of enduring every kind of fatigue
and privation. This country life, with its liberty, and I may well
say its happiness, passed too quickly away; and the period soon came
when my education compelled me to pursue my daily studies in a school
at Nantes. I had four leagues to walk, but I trudged the distance
light-heartedly, and at night, when I returned home, I ever found
awaiting me the kind solicitude of our dear mother, and the attentive
cares of two sisters whom I tenderly loved.

It was decided that I should enter the medical profession. I studied
several years at the Hôtel-Dieu of Nantes, and I passed my examination
for naval surgeon at an age when many a young man is shut up within
the four walls of a college, still prosecuting his studies.

It would be difficult to form any idea of my joy when I saw myself in
possession of my surgeon's diploma. Thenceforward I regarded myself
as an important being, about to take my place among reasonable and
industrious men; and what perhaps rendered me still more joyous was,
that I could earn my own livelihood, and contribute to the comfort
of my mother and my sisters.

I was also seized with a strong desire to travel abroad, and make
myself acquainted with foreign countries.

Twenty-four hours after my nomination as surgeon I went and offered
my services to a ship-owner who was about freighting a vessel to the
East Indies. We were not long in arranging terms, and, at forty francs
per month, I engaged myself for the voyage.

Within twelve months afterwards I returned home. Who can depict the
sweet emotions which, as a young man, I felt on again beholding my
native land? I stayed a month on shore, surrounded by the affectionate
attentions of my mother and sisters. Despite their assiduities I was
seized with ennui. I made a second and a third voyage; then, after
having rounded the Cape of Good Hope half-a-dozen times, I undertook
one which separated me from my country during twenty years.

On the 9th October, 1819, I embarked on board the Cultivateur,
an old half-rotten three-masted vessel, commanded by an equally old
captain, who, long ashore, had given up navigating for many years. An
old captain with an old ship! Such were the conditions in which I
undertook this voyage. I ought, however, to add, that I obtained an
increase of pay.

We touched at Bourbon; we ran along the entire coast of Sumatra,
a part of Java, the isles of Sonde, and that of Banca; and at last,
towards the end of May, eight months after our departure from Nantes,
we arrived in the magnificent bay of Manilla.

The Cultivateur anchored near the little town of Cavite. I obtained
leave to reside on shore, and took lodgings in Cavite, which is
situate about five or six leagues from Manilla.

To make up for my long inactivity on board ship, I eagerly engaged in
my favourite exercises, exploring the country in all directions with my
gun upon my shoulder. Taking for a guide the first Indian whom I met,
I made long excursions, less occupied in shooting than in admiring the
magnificent scenery. I knew a little Spanish, and soon acquired a few
Tagaloc words. Whether it was for excitement's sake, or from a vague
desire of braving danger, I know not, but I was particularly fond of
wandering in remote places, said to be frequented by robbers. With
these I occasionally fell in, but the sight of my gun kept them in
check. I may say, with truth, that at that period of my life I had so
little sense of danger, that I was always ready to put myself forward
when there was an enemy to fight or a peril to be encountered.

I had only resided a short time at Cavite when that terrible scourge,
the cholera, broke out at Manilla, in September, 1820, and quickly
ravaged the whole island. Within a few days of its first appearance
the epidemic spread rapidly; the Indians succumbed by thousands; at
all hours of the day and of the night the streets were crowded with
the dead-carts. Next to the fright occasioned by the epidemic, quickly
succeeded rage and despair. The Indians said, one to another, that the
strangers poisoned the rivers and the fountains, in order to destroy
the native population and possess themselves of the Philippines.

On the 9th October, 1820, the anniversary of my departure from France,
a dreadful massacre commenced at Manilla and at Cavite. Poor Dibard,
the captain of the Cultivateur, was one of the first victims. Almost
all the French who resided at Manilla were slain, and their houses
pillaged and destroyed. The carnage only ceased when there were no
longer any victims. One eye-witness escaped this butchery, namely,
M. Gautrin, a captain of the merchant service, who, at the moment I
am writing, happens to be residing in Paris. He saved his life by his
courage and his muscular strength. After seeing one of his friends
mercilessly cut to pieces, he precipitated himself into the midst
of the assassins, with no other means of defence than his fists. He
succeeded in fighting his way through the crowd, but shortly afterwards
fell exhausted, having received three sabre-cuts upon his head, and a
lance-thrust in his body. Fortunately, some soldiers happened to pass
by at the time, who picked him up and carried him to a guard-house,
where his wounds were quickly attended to.

I myself was dodged about Cavite, but I contrived to escape, and
to reach a pirogue, into which I jumped, and took refuge on board
the Cultivateur. I had scarcely been there ten minutes when I was
requested to attend the mate of an American vessel, who had just
been stabbed on board his ship by some custom-house guards. When I
had finished dressing the wound, several officers, belonging to the
different French vessels lying in the bay, acquainted me that one
of their brethren, Captain Drouant, of Marseilles, was still ashore,
and that there might yet be time to save him. There was not a moment
to lose; night was approaching, and it was necessary to profit by the
last half-hour of daylight. I set off in a cutter, and, on nearing
the land, I directed my men to keep the boat afloat, in order to
prevent a surprise on the part of the Indians, but yet to hug the
shore sufficiently close to land promptly, in case the captain or
myself signaled them. I then quickly set about searching for Drouant.

On reaching a small square, called Puerta Baga, I observed a group
of three or four hundred Indians. I had a presentiment that it was
in that direction I ought to prosecute my search. I approached, and
beheld the unfortunate Drouant, pale as a corpse. A furious Indian was
on the point of plunging his kreese into his breast. I threw myself
between the captain and the poignard, violently pushing on either
side the murderer and his victim, so as to separate them. "Run!" I
cried in French; "a boat awaits you." So great was the stupefaction
of the Indians that the captain escaped unpursued.

It was now time for me to get out of the dangerous situation in which
I was involved. Four hundred Indians surrounded me; the only way of
dealing with them was by audacity. I said in Tagaloc to the Indian who
had attempted to stab the captain: "You are a scoundrel." The Indian
sprang towards me; he raised his arm: I struck him on the head with a
cane which I held in my hand; he waited in astonishment for a moment,
and then returned towards his companions to excite them. Daggers
were drawn on every side; the crowd formed a circle around me, which
gradually concentrated. Mysterious influence of the white man over his
coloured brother! Of all these four hundred Indians, not one dared
attack me the first; they all wished to strike together. Suddenly a
native soldier, armed with a musket, broke through the crowd; he struck
down my adversary, took away his dagger, and holding his musket by the
bayonet end, he swung it round and round his head, thus enlarging the
circle at first, and then dispersing a portion of my enemies. "Fly,
sir!" said my liberator; "now that I am here, no one will touch a
hair of your head." In fact the crowd divided, and left me a free
passage. I was saved, without knowing by whom, or for what reason,
until the native soldier called after me: "You attended my wife who
was sick, and you never asked payment of me. I now settle my debt."

As Captain Drouant had doubtless gone off in the cutter, it was
impossible for me to return on board the Cultivateur. I directed
my steps towards my lodgings, creeping along the walls, and taking
advantage of the obscurity, when, on turning the corner of a street,
I fell into the midst of a band of dockyard workmen, armed with axes,
and about to proceed to the attack of the French vessels then in
harbour. Here again I owed my preservation to an acquaintance, to whom
I had rendered some service in the practice of my profession. A Métis,
or half-breed, who had quickly pushed me into the entry of a house,
and covered me with his body, said: "Stir not, Doctor Pablo!" [1] When
the crowd had dispersed, my protector advised me to conceal myself,
and, above all, not to go on board; he then started off to rejoin
his comrades. But all was not yet over. I had scarcely entered my
lodgings when I heard a knocking at the door.

"Doctor Pablo," said a voice, which was not unknown to me.

I opened, and I saw, as pale as death, a Chinese, who kept a tea-store
on the ground-floor of the same house.

"What's the matter, Yang-Po?"

"Save yourself, Doctor!"

"And wherefore?"

"Because the Indians will attack you this very night; they have
decided upon it!"

"Is it not your apprehension on account of your shop, Yang-Po?"

"Oh, no! do not treat this matter lightly. If you remain here you
are doomed; you have struck an Indian, and his friends cry aloud
for vengeance."

The fears of Yang-Po were, I saw, too well-founded; but what could
I do? To shut my door and await was the safest plan.

"Thank you," said I to the Chinese; "thank you for your kind advice,
but I shall remain here."

"Remain here, Signor Doctor! Can you think of so doing?"

"Now, Yang-Po, a service: go and say to these Indians that I have,
at their service, a brace of pistols and a double-barreled gun,
which I know how to use."

The Chinese departed sighing deeply, from a notion that the attack
upon the Doctor might end in the pillage of his wares. I barricaded
my door with the furniture of the room; I then loaded my weapons,
and put out the lights.

It was now eight o'clock in the evening. The least noise made me think
that the moment had arrived when Providence alone could save me. I was
so fatigued that, despite the anxiety natural to my position, I had
frequently to struggle against an inclination to sleep. Towards eleven
o'clock some one knocked at my door. I seized my pistols, and listened
attentively. At a second summons, I approached the door on tip-toe.

"Who's there?" I demanded.

A voice replied to me: "We come to save you. Lose not an instant. Get
out on the roof, and climb over to the other side, where we will
await you, in the street of the Campanario." Then two or three persons
descended the stairs rapidly. I had recognised the voice of a Métis,
whose good feelings on my behalf were beyond doubt. There was now
no time to be lost, for at the moment I got out of a window which
served to light the staircase, and led on to the roof, the Indians had
arrived in front of the house, and in a few minutes were breaking and
plundering the little I possessed. I quickly traversed the roof, and
descended into the street of the Campanario, where my new preservers
awaited me. They conducted me to their dwelling: there, a profound
sleep caused me quickly to forget the dangers I had passed through.

The following day my friends prepared a small pirogue to convey me
on board the Cultivateur, where, apparently, I should be in greater
security than on shore. I was about to embark when one of my preservers
handed me a letter which he had just received. It was addressed to me,
and bore the signatures of all the captains whose vessels were lying in
the harbour, and it informed me that, seeing themselves exposed every
moment to an attack by the Indians, they were decided to raise anchor
and seek a wider offing; but that two among them, Drouant and Perroux,
had been compelled to leave on shore a portion of their possessions,
and all their sails and fresh water. They entreated me to lend them
my assistance, and had arranged that a skiff should be placed at my
command. I communicated this letter to my friends, and declared that
I would not return on board without endeavouring to satisfy the wishes
of my countrymen; it was a question of saving the lives of the crews of
two vessels, and hesitation was impossible. They used every effort to
shake my resolution. "If you show yourself in any part of the town,"
said they, "you are lost; even supposing the Indians were not to kill
you, they would not fail to steal every object intrusted to them." I
remained immovable, and pointed out to them that it was a question of
honour and humanity. "Go alone, then!" exclaimed that Métis who had
contributed the most to my escape; "not one of us will follow you;
we would not have it said that we assisted in your destruction."

I thanked my friends, and, after shaking hands with them, passed on
through the streets of Cavite, my pistols in my belt, and my thoughts
occupied as to the best means of extricating myself from my perilous
position. However, I already knew sufficient of the Indian character
to be aware that boldness would conciliate, rather than enrage them. I
went towards the same landing-place where once before I had escaped
a great danger. The shore was covered with Indians, watching the
ships at anchor. As I advanced, all turned their looks upon me; but,
as I had foreseen, the countenances of these men, whose feelings had
become calmed during the night that had intervened, expressed more
astonishment than anger.

"Will you earn money?" I cried. "To those who work with me I will
give a dollar at the end of the day."

A moment's silence followed this proposition; then one of them said:
"You do not fear us!"

"Judge if I am alarmed," I replied, showing him my pistols; "with
these I could take two lives for one--the advantage is on my side."

My words had a magical effect, and my questioner replied:

"Put up your weapons; you have a brave heart, and deserve to be safe
amongst us. Speak! what do you require? We will follow you." I saw
these men, who but yesterday would have killed me, now willing to bear
me in triumph. I then explained to them that I wished to take some
articles which had been left on shore to my comrades, and to those who
assisted me in this object I would give the promised recompense. I told
the one who had addressed me to select two hundred men, nearly double
the number necessary; during the time he made up his party I signaled
a skiff to approach the shore, and wrote a few words in pencil, in
order that the boats from the French vessels might be in readiness
to receive the stores as soon as they were brought to the water's
edge. I then marched at the head of my Indian troop of two hundred
men, and by their aid the sails, provisions, biscuits, and wines,
were soon on board the boats. That which most embarrassed me was the
transport of a large sum of money belonging to Captain Drouant. If the
Indians had conceived the least suspicion of this wealth, they would no
longer have kept faith with me. I therefore determined to fill my own
pockets with the gold, and to traverse the distance between the house
and the boats as many times as was necessary to embark it. There,
concealed by the sailors, I deposited piece after piece as quietly
as possible. In carrying the sails belonging to Captain Perroux, a
circumstance occurred which might have been fatal to me. A few days
before the massacre, a French sailor, who was working as sail maker,
had died of the cholera. His alarmed companions wrapped the body in a
sail, and then hurried on board their ships. My Indians now discovered
the corpse, which was already in a state of putrefaction. Terrified
at first, their terror soon changed to fury; for an instant I feared
they would fall upon me.

"Your friends," they cried, "have left this body here purposely, that
it might poison the air and increase the violence of the epidemic."

"What! you are afraid of a poor devil dead of the cholera!" I said to
them, affecting to be as tranquil as possible; "never fear, I will
soon rid you of him;" and, despite the aversion I felt, I covered
the body with a small sail, and carried it down to the beach. There
I made a rude grave, in which I placed it; and two pieces of wood,
in the shape of a cross, for some days indicated the spot where lay
the unhappy one, who probably had no prayers save mine.

It had been a busy and agitating day, but towards the evening I
finished my task, and everything was embarked. I paid the Indians,
and in addition gave them a barrel of spirits.

I did not fear their intoxication, being the only Frenchman there,
and when it was dark I got into a boat, and towed a dozen casks of
fresh water at her stern. Since the previous day I had not eaten;
I felt worn out by fatigue and want of food, and threw myself down to
rest upon the seats of the boat. Ere long a mortal chilliness passed
through my veins, and I became insensible. In this state I remained
more than an hour. At last I reached the Cultivateur, and was taken
on board, and, by the aid of friction, brandy, and other remedies,
was restored to consciousness. Food and rest quickly renovated my
powers of mind and body, and the next day I was calm as usual among
my comrades. I thought of my personal position; the events of the two
last days made the review extremely simple. I had lost everything. A
small venture of merchandise, in which I invested the savings of
my previous voyages, had been intrusted to the captain for sale at
Manilla. These goods were destroyed, together with all I possessed,
at Cavite. There remained to me but the clothes I had on--a few old
things I could wear only on board ship--and thirty-two dollars. I
was but a little richer than Bias. Unfortunately I recollected
that an English captain--whose ship I had seen in the roads--owed me
something like a hundred dollars. In my present circumstances this sum
appeared a fortune. The captain in question, from fear of the Indians,
had dropped down as far as Maribélé, at the entrance of the bay, ten
leagues from Cavite. To obtain payment it was necessary I should go on
board his vessel. I borrowed a boat, and the services of four sailors,
from Captain Perroux, and departed. I reached the ship at dusk. The
unprincipled captain, who knew himself to be in deep water and safe
from pursuit, replied that he did not understand what I was saying
to him. I insisted upon being paid, and he laughed in my face. I was
treated as a cheat. He threatened to have me thrown into the sea;
in short, after a useless discussion, and at the moment when the
captain called five or six of his sailors to execute his threat,
I retreated to my boat. The night was dark, and as a violent and
contrary wind had sprung up, it was impossible to regain the ship,
so we passed the night floating upon the waves, ignorant as to the
direction we were going. In the morning I discovered our efforts had
been thrown away; Cavite was far behind us. The wind becoming calmer,
we again commenced rowing, and two hours after noon reached the ship.

Meanwhile tranquillity was restored at Cavite and Manilla. The
Spanish authorities took measures to prevent a recurrence of the
frightful scenes I have detailed, and the priests of Cavite launched a
public excommunication against all those who had attempted my life. I
attributed this solicitude to the character of my profession, being in
fact the only Æsculapius in the place. When I left the town the sick
were obliged to content themselves with the hazardous presumptions of
Indian sorcerers. One morning, I had almost decided upon returning to
land, when an Indian, in a smartly decorated pirogue, came alongside
the Cultivateur. I had met this man in some of my shooting excursions,
and he now proposed that I should go with him to his house, situated
ten leagues from Cavite, near the mountains of Marigondon. The prospect
of some good sport soon decided me to accept this offer. Taking with
me my thirty-two dollars and double-barreled gun--in fact, my whole
fortune--I intrusted myself to this friend, whose acquaintance I had
just made. His little habitation was delightfully situated, in the
cool shadow of the palm and yang-yang--immense trees, whose flowers
spread around a delicious perfume. Two charming Indian girls were the
Eves of this paradise. My good friend kept the promises he had made
me on leaving the vessel; I was treated both by himself and family
with every attention and kindness.

Hunting was my principal amusement, and, above all, the chase of
the stag, which involves violent exercise. I was still ignorant of
wild-buffalo hunting, of which, however, I shall have to speak later
in my narrative; and I often requested my host to give me a taste of
this sport, but he always refused, saying it was too dangerous. For
three weeks I lived with the Indian family without receiving any news
from Manilla, when one morning, a letter came from the first mate--who,
on the death of the unfortunate Dibard, had taken the command of the
Cultivateur--telling me he was about to sail, and that I must go
on board at once if I wished to leave a country which had been so
fatal to all of us. This summons was already several days old, and
despite the reluctance I felt to quit the Indian's pleasant retreat,
it was necessary that I should prepare to start. I presented my
gun to my kind host, but had nothing to give his daughters, for to
have offered them money would have been an insult. The next day I
arrived at Manilla, still thinking of the cool shade of the palm and
the perfumed flowers of the yang-yang. My first impulse was to go to
the quay; but, alas! the Cultivateur had sailed, and I had the misery
of beholding her already far away in the horizon, moving sluggishly
before a gentle breeze towards the mouth of the bay. I asked some
Indian boatmen to take me to the ship; they replied that it might be
practicable if the wind did not freshen, but demanded twelve dollars
to make the attempt. I had but twenty-five remaining. I considered
for a few moments, should I not reach the vessel, what would become
of me in a remote colony, where I knew no one, and my stock of money
reduced to thirteen dollars, and with no articles of dress than those I
had on--a white jacket, trousers, and striped shirt. A sudden thought
crossed my mind: what if I were to remain at Manilla, and practise my
profession? Young and inexperienced, I ventured to think myself the
cleverest physician in the Philippine Islands. Who has not felt this
self-confidence so natural to youth? I turned my back upon the ship,
and walked briskly into Manilla.

Before continuing this recital, let me describe the capital of the
Philippines.






CHAPTER II.

    Description of Manilla--The two Towns--Gaiety of
    Binondoc--Dances--Gaming--Beauty of the Women--Their Fascinating
    Costume--Male Costume--The Military Town--Personal Adventures--My
    First Patient--His Generous Confidence--Commencement of my
    Practice--The Artificial Eye--Brilliant Success--The Charming
    Widow--Auspicious Introduction--My Marriage--Treachery and Fate
    of Iturbide--Our Loss of Fortune--Return to France postponed.


Manilla and its suburbs contain a population of about one hundred and
fifty thousand souls, of which Spaniards and Creoles hardly constitute
the tenth part; the remainder is composed of Tagalocs, or Indians,
Métis, and Chinese. The city is divided into two sections--the military
and the mercantile--the latter of which is the suburb. The former,
surrounded by lofty walls, is bounded by the sea on one side, and
upon another by an extensive plain, where the troops are exercised,
and where of an evening the indolent Creoles, lazily extended
in their carriages, repair to exhibit their elegant dresses and
to inhale the sea-breezes. This public promenade--where intrepid
horsemen and horsewomen, and European vehicles, cross each other in
every direction--may be styled the Champs-Elysées, or the Hyde Park,
of the Indian Archipelago. On a third side, the military town is
separated from the trading town by the river Pasig, upon which are
seen all the day boats laden with merchandize, and charming gondolas
conveying idlers to different parts of the suburbs, or to visit the
ships in the bay.

The military town communicates by the bridge of Binondoc with the
mercantile town, inhabited principally by the Spaniards engaged in
public affairs; its aspect is dull and monotonous; all the streets,
perfectly straight, are bordered by wide granite footpaths. In general,
the highways are macadamised, and kept in good condition. Such is
the effeminacy of the people, they could not endure the noise of
carriages upon pavement. The houses--large and spacious, palaces in
appearance--are built in a particular manner, calculated to withstand
the earthquakes and hurricanes so frequent in this part of the
world. They have all one story, with a ground-floor; the upper part,
generally occupied by the family, is surrounded by a wide gallery,
opened or shut by means of large sliding panels, the panes of which
are thin mother-of-pearl. The mother-of-pearl permits the passage
of light to the apartments, and excludes the heat of the sun. In the
military town are all the monasteries and convents, the archbishopric,
the courts of justice, the custom-house, the hospital, the governor's
palace, and the citadel, which overlooks both towns. There are three
principal entrances to Manilla--Puerta Santa Lucia, Puerto Réal,
and Puerta Parian.

At one o'clock the drawbridges are raised, and the gates pitilessly
closed, when the tardy resident must seek his night's lodging in
the suburb, or mercantile town, called Binondoc. This portion of
Manilla wears a much gayer and more lively aspect than the military
section. There is less regularity in the streets, and the buildings
are not so fine as those in what may be called Manilla proper; but in
Binondoc all is movement, all is life. Numerous canals, crowded with
pirogues, gondolas, and boats of various kinds, intersect the suburb,
where reside the rich merchants--Spanish, English, Indian, Chinese,
and Métis. The newest and most elegant houses are built upon the banks
of the river Pasig. Simple in exterior, they contain the most costly
inventions of English and Indian luxury. Precious vases from China,
Japan ware, gold, silver, and rich silks, dazzle the eyes on entering
these unpretending habitations. Each house has a landing-place from
the river, and little bamboo palaces, serving as bathing-houses, to
which the residents resort several times daily, to relieve the fatigue
caused by the intense heat of the climate. The cigar manufactory,
which affords employment continually to from fifteen to twenty
thousand workmen and other assistants, is situated in Binondoc; also
the Chinese custom-house, and all the large working establishments
of Manilla. During the day, the Spanish ladies, richly dressed in
the transparent muslins of India and China, lounge about from store
to store, and sorely test the patience of the Chinese salesman, who
unfolds uncomplainingly, and without showing the least ill-humour,
thousands of pieces of goods before his customers, which are frequently
examined simply for amusement, and not half a yard purchased. The
balls and entertainments, given by the half-breeds of Binondoc to their
friends, are celebrated throughout the Philippines. The quadrilles of
Europe are succeeded by the dances of India, and while the young people
execute the fandango, the bolero, the cachucha, or the lascivious
movements of the bayadères, the enterprising half-breed, the indolent
Spaniard, and the sedate Chinese, retire to the gaming saloons, to
try their fortune at cards and dice. The passion for play is carried
to such an extent, that the traders lose or gain in one night sums
of 50,000 piasters (£10,000 sterling). The half-breeds, Indians, and
Chinese, have also a great passion for cock-fighting; these combats
take place in a large arena. I have seen £1,500 betted upon a cock
which had cost £150; in a few minutes this costly champion fell,
struck dead by his antagonist. In fine, if Binondoc be exclusively
the city of pleasure, luxury, and activity, it is also that of
amorous intrigues and gallant adventures. In the evening, Spaniards,
English, and French, go to the promenades to ogle the beautiful
and facile half-breed women, whose transparent robes reveal their
splendid figures. That which distinguishes the female half-breeds
(Spanish-Tagals, or Chinese-Tagals) is a singularly intelligent
and expressive physiognomy. Their hair, drawn back from the face,
and sustained by long golden pins, is of marvellous luxuriance. They
wear upon the head a kerchief, transparent like a veil, made of the
pine fibre, finer than our finest cambric; the neck is ornamented
by a string of large coral beads, fastened by a gold medallion. A
transparent chemisette, of the same stuff as the head-dress, descends
as far as the waist, covering, but not concealing, a bosom that has
never been imprisoned in stays. Below, and two or three inches from
the edge of the chemisette, is attached a variously coloured petticoat
of very bright hues. Over this garment, a large and costly silk sash
closely encircles the figure, and shows its outline from the waist
to the knee. The small and white feet, always naked, are thrust into
embroidered slippers, which cover but the extremities. Nothing can
be more charming, coquettish, and fascinating, than this costume,
which excites in the highest degree the admiration of strangers. The
half-breed and Chinese Tagals know so well the effect it produces on
the Europeans, that nothing would induce them to alter it.

While on the subject of dress, that of the men is also worthy of
remark. The Indian and the half-breed wear upon the head a large
straw hat, black or white, or a sort of Chinese covering, called a
salacote; upon the shoulders, the pine fibre kerchief embroidered;
and round the neck, a rosary of coral beads; their shirts are also
made from the fibres of the pine, or of vegetable silk; trousers of
coloured silk, with embroidery near the bottom, and a girdle of red
China crape, complete their costume. The feet, without stockings,
are covered with European shoes.

The military town, so quiet during the day, assumes a more lively
appearance towards the evening, when the inhabitants ride out in
their very magnificent carriages, which are invariably conducted
by postilions; they then mix with the walking population of
Binondoc. Afterwards visits, balls, and the more intimate réunions
take place. At the latter they talk, smoke the cigars of Manilla,
and chew the betel, [2] drink glasses of iced eau sucrée, and eat
innumerable sweetmeats; towards midnight those guests retire who do
not stay supper with the family, which is always served luxuriously,
and generally prolonged until two o'clock in the morning. Such is the
life spent by the wealthy classes under these skies so favoured by
Heaven. But there exists, as in Europe, and even to a greater extent,
the most abject misery, of which I shall speak hereafter, throwing
a shade over this brilliant picture.

I shall now return to my personal adventures. While I spoke with
the Indians upon the shore, I had noticed a young European standing
not many paces from me; I again met him on the road I took towards
Manilla, and I thought I would address him. This young man was a
surgeon, about returning to Europe. I partly told him the plans I
wished to form, and asked him for some information respecting the city
where I purposed locating myself. He readily satisfied my inquiries,
and encouraged me in the resolution to exercise my profession in
the Philippine Islands. He had himself, he said, conceived the same
project, but family affairs obliged him to return to his country. I
did not conceal the misfortune of my position, and observed that it
would be almost impossible to pay visits in the costume, worse than
plain, which I then wore.

"That is of no consequence," he replied; "I have all you would
require: a coat almost new, and six capital lancets. I will sell you
these things for their cost price in France; they will be a great
bargain." The affair was soon concluded. He took me to his hotel,
and I shortly left it encased in a garment sufficiently good, but
much too large and too long for me. Nevertheless, it was some time
since I had seen myself so well clad, and I could not help admiring
my new acquisition.

I had hidden my poor little white jacket in my hat, and I strode
along the causeway of Manilla more proud than Artaban himself. I was
the owner of a coat and six lancets; but there remained, for all my
fortune, the sum of one dollar only; this consideration slightly
tempered the joy that I felt in gazing on my brilliant costume. I
thought of where I could pass the night, and subsist on the morrow
and the following days, if the sick were not ready for me.

Reflecting thus I slowly wandered from Binondoc to the military town,
and from the military town back to Binondoc,--when, suddenly, a bright
idea shot across my brain. At Cavite I had heard spoken of a Spanish
captain, by name Don Juan Porras, whom an accident had rendered almost
blind. I resolved to seek him, and offer my services; it remained but
to find his residence. I addressed a hundred persons, but each replied
that he did not know, and passed on his way. An Indian who kept a
small shop, and to whom I spoke, relieved my trouble: "If the senor
is a captain," he said, "your excellency would obtain his address at
the first barrack on your road." I thanked him, and eagerly followed
his counsel. At the infantry barracks, where I presented myself, the
officer on duty sent a soldier to guide me to the captain's dwelling:
it was time, the night had already fallen. Don Juan Porras was an
Andalusian, a good man, and of an extremely cheerful disposition. I
found him with his head wrapped in a Madras handkerchief, busied in
completely covering his eyes with two enormous poultices.

"Senor Captain," I said, "I am a physician, and a skilful oculist. I
have come hither to take care of you, and I am fully convinced that
I shall cure you."

"Basta" (enough is said), was his answer; "all the physicians in
Manilla are asses."

This more than sceptical reply did not discourage me. I resolved
to turn it to account. "My opinion is precisely the same as yours,"
I promptly answered; "and it is because I am strongly convinced of
the ignorance of the native doctors, that I have made up my mind to
come and practise in the Philippines."

"Of what nation are you, sir?"

"I am a Frenchman."

"A French physician!" cried Don Juan; "Ah! that is quite another
matter. I ask your pardon for having spoken so irreverently of men of
your profession. A French physician! I put myself entirely into your
hands. Take my eyes, Senor Medico, and do what you will with them!"

The conversation was taking a favourable turn: I hastened to broach
the principal question:

"Your eyes are very bad, Senor Captain," said I; "to accomplish a
speedy cure, it is absolutely necessary that I should never quit you
for a moment."

"Would you consent to come and pass some time with me, doctor?"

Here was the principal consideration settled.

"I consent," replied I, "but on one condition; namely, that I shall
pay you for my board and lodging."

"That shall not part us--you are free to do so," said the worthy man;
"and so the matter is settled. I have a nice room, and a good bed,
all ready; there is nothing to do but to send for your baggage. I
will call my servant."

The terrible word, "baggage," sounded in my ears like a knell. I cast
a melancholy look at the crown of my hat--my only portmanteau--within
which were deposited all my clothes--consisting of my little white
jacket; and I feared Don Juan would take me for some runaway sailor
trying to dupe him. There was no retreat; so I mustered my courage,
and briefly related my sad position, adding that I could not pay
for my board and lodging until the end of the month--if I was so
fortunate as to find patients. Don Juan Porras listened to me very
quietly. When my tale was told he burst into a loud laugh, which made
me shiver from head to foot.

"Well," cried he, "I am well pleased it should be so; you are poor;
you will have more time to devote to my malady, and a greater interest
in curing me. What think you of the syllogism?"

"It is excellent, Senor Captain, and before long you will find, I hope,
that I am not the man to compromise so distinguished a logician as
yourself. To-morrow morning I will examine your eyes, and I will not
leave you till I have radically cured them."

We talked for some time longer in this joyous strain, after which
I retired to my chamber, where the most delightful dreams visited
my pillow.

The next day I rose early, put on my doctoral coat, and entered the
chamber of my host. I examined his eyes; they were in a dreadful
state. The sight of one was not only destroyed, but threatened the
life of the sufferer. A cancer had formed, and the enormous size it
had attained rendered the result of an operation doubtful. The left
eye contained many fibres, but there was hope of saving it. I frankly
acquainted Don Juan with my fears and hopes, and insisted upon the
entire removal of the right eye. The Captain, at first astonished,
decided courageously upon submitting to the operation, which I
accomplished on the following day with complete success. Shortly
afterwards the inflammatory symptoms disappeared, and I could assure
my host of a safe recovery. I then bestowed all my attention upon
the left eye. I desired the more ardently to restore to Don Juan his
vision, from the good effect I was convinced his case would produce
at Manilla. For me it would be fortune and reputation. Besides, I had
already acquired, in the few days, some slight patronage, and was in a
position to pay for my board and lodging at the end of the month. After
six weeks' careful treatment Don Juan was perfectly cured, and could
use his eye as well as he did previous to his accident. Nevertheless,
to my great regret, the Captain still continued to immure himself;
his re-appearance in society, which he had forsaken for more than
a year, would have produced an immense sensation, and I should have
been considered the first doctor in the Philippines. One day I touched
upon this delicate topic.

"Senor Captain," said I, "what are you thinking about, to remain
thus shut up between four walls, and why do you not resume your old
habits? You must go and visit your friends, your acquaintances."

"Doctor," interrupted Don Juan, "how can I show myself in public with
an eye the less? When I pass along the street all the women would say:
'There goes Don Juan the One-eyed!' No, no; before I leave the house
you must get me an artificial eye from Paris."

"You don't mean that? It would be eighteen months before the eye
arrived."

"Then here goes for eighteen months' seclusion," said Don Juan.

I persisted for upwards of an hour, but the Captain would not listen
to reason. He carried his coquetry so far that, although I had
covered the empty orbit with black silk, he had his shutters closed
whenever visitors came; so that, as they always found him in the dark,
none would credit his cure. I was very anxious to thwart Don Juan's
obstinacy, as may well be imagined; I had not the time to waste, during
eighteen months, in dancing attendance at fortune's door; therefore
I determined to make this eye myself, without which the coquetish
captain would not be seen. I took some pieces of glass, a tube, and
set to work. After many fruitless attempts, I at last succeeded in
obtaining the perfect form of an eye; but this was not all--it must
be coloured to resemble nature. I sent for a poor carriage-painter,
who managed to imitate tolerably well the left eye of Don Juan. It
was necessary to preserve this painting from contact with the tears,
which would soon have destroyed it. To accomplish this I had made by
a jeweller a silver globe, smaller than the glass eye, inside which
I united it by means of sealing-wax. I carefully polished the edges
upon a stone, and after eight days' labour I obtained a satisfactory
result. The eye which I had succeeded in producing was really not so
bad after all. I was anxious to place it within the vacant orbit. It
somewhat inconvenienced the Senor Don Juan, but I persuaded him that
he would soon become accustomed to it. Placing across his nose a
pair of spectacles, he examined himself in the looking-glass, and
was so satisfied with his appearance that he decided on commencing
his visits the following day.

As I had anticipated, the re-appearance in the world of Captain Juan
Porras made a great sensation, and soon the consequence was, that
Senor Don Pablo, the eminent French physician--most especially the
clever oculist--was much spoken of. From all quarters patients came to
me. Notwithstanding my youth and inexperience, my first success gave
me such confidence that I performed several operations upon persons
afflicted with cataracts, which succeeded most fortunately. I no longer
sufficed to my large connection, and in a few days, from the greatest
distress, I attained perfect opulence: I had a carriage-and-four in my
stables. I could not, however, notwithstanding this change of fortune,
resign myself to leave Don Juan's house, out of gratitude for the
hospitality he so generously offered me. In my leisure hours he kept
me company, and amused me with the recital of his battle stories and
personal adventures. I had already spent nearly six months with him,
when a circumstance, which forms an epoch in my life, changed my
existence, and compelled me to quit the lively captain. One of my
American friends often called my attention in our walks towards a
young lady in mourning, who passed for one of the prettiest senoras
of the town. Each time we met her my American friend never failed
to praise the beauty of the Marquesa de Las Salinas. She was about
eighteen or nineteen years of age; her features were both regular
and placid; she had beautiful black hair, and large expressive eyes;
she was the widow of a colonel in the guards, who married her when
almost a child. The sight of this young lady produced so lively an
impression upon me, that I explored all the saloons at Binondoc,
to endeavour to meet her elsewhere than in my walks. Fruitless
attempts! The young widow saw nobody. I almost despaired of finding
an opportunity of speaking to her, when one morning an Indian came
to request me to visit his master. I got into the carriage and set
off, without informing myself of the name of the sick person. The
carriage stopped before the door of one of the finest houses in the
Faubourg of Santa-Crux. Having examined the patient, and conversed a
few minutes with him, I went to the table to write a prescription;
suddenly I heard the rustling of a silk dress; I turned round--the
pen fell from my hand. Before me stood the very lady I had so long
sought after--appearing to me as in a dream! My amazement was so
great that I muttered a few unintelligible words, and bowed with such
awkwardness that she smiled. She simply addressed me to inquire the
state of her nephew's health, and withdrew almost immediately. As
to myself, instead of making my ordinary calls, I returned home;
questioned Don Juan minutely about Madame de Las Salinas: he entirely
satisfied my curiosity. He was acquainted with all the family of this
youthful widow, and they were highly respected in the colony. The
next morning, and following days, I returned to this charming widow,
who graciously condescended to receive me with favour. These details
being so completely personal, I pass them over. Six months after
my first interview with Madame de Las Salinas, I asked her hand,
and obtained it. I had therefore found, at more than five thousand
leagues from my country, both happiness and wealth. I agreed that
we should go to France as soon as my wife's property, the greater
part of which lay in Mexico, should be realised. In the meantime my
house was the rendezvous of foreigners, particularly of the French,
who were already rather numerous at Manilla. At this period the
Spanish government named me Surgeon-Major of the 1st Light Regiment,
and of the first battalion of the militia of Panjanga. Having been so
successful in so short a time, I never once doubted but that fortune
would continue to bestow her smiling favours upon me. I had already
prepared everything for my return to France; for we hourly expected
the arrival of the galleons that plied from Acapulco to Manilla,
which were to bring my wife's fortune. Her fortune was no less than
700,000 francs (£28,000 sterling).

One evening, as we were taking tea, we were informed that the vessels
from Acapulco had been telegraphed, and that the next morning they
would be in; our piasters were to be on board; I leave you to guess
if our wishes were not gratified. But, alas! how our hopes were
frustrated: the vessels did not bring us a single piaster. This is
what occurred: five or six millions were sent by land from Mexico
to San Blas, the place of embarkation, and the Mexican government
had the van escorted by a regiment of the line, commanded by Colonel
Iturbide. On the journey he took possession of the van, and fled with
his regiment into the independent states. It is well known that later
Iturbide was proclaimed Emperor of Mexico, then dethroned, and at last
shot, after an expedition that offers more than one analogy with that
of Murat. The very day of the arrival of the vessels we learnt that
our fortune was entirely lost, without even hopes of regaining the
smallest part. My wife and self supported this event with tolerable
philosophy. It was not the loss of our piasters that distressed us
the most, but the necessity we were in to abandon, or at least to
postpone, our journey to France.






CHAPTER III.

    Continued Prosperity in Practice--Attempted Political
    Revolution--Desperate Street Engagement--Subjugation of the
    Insurgents--The Emperor of a Day--Dreadful Executions--Illness
    and Insanity of my Wife--Her Recovery and Relapse--Removal to
    the Country--Beneficial Results--Dangerous Neighbours--Repentant
    Banditti--Fortunate Escape--The Anonymous Friend--A Confiding
    Wife--Her Final Recovery, and our Domestic Happiness Restored.


Despite the misfortune I have alluded to, I kept up my house in
the same style as before. My connection, and the different posts I
occupied, permitted me to lead the life of a grandee belonging to
the Spanish colonies; and probably I should have made my fortune in a
few years, if I had continued in the medical profession, but the wish
for unlimited liberty caused me to abandon all these advantages for a
life of peril and anxiety. At the same time do not let us anticipate
too suddenly, and let the reader patiently peruse a few more pages
about Manilla, and various events wherein I figured, either as actor
or witness, before taking leave of a sybarite citizen's life.

I was, as I said before, surgeon-major of the 1st Light Regiment of
the line, and on intimate terms with the staff, and more particularly
with Captain Novalès, a Creole by birth, possessing a courageous and
venturesome disposition. He was suspected of endeavouring to excite
his regiment to rebel in behalf of the Independence. An inquiry was
consequently instituted, which ended without proof of the captain's
culpability; nevertheless, as the governor still maintained his
suspicions, he gave orders for him to be sent to one of the southern
provinces, under the inspection of an alcaide. Novalès came to see
me the morning of his departure, and complained bitterly of the
injustice of the governor towards him, and added that those who had
no confidence in his honour would repent, and that he would soon
be back. I endeavoured to pacify him: we shook hands, and in the
evening he went on board the vessel commissioned to take him to his
destination. The night after Novalès departure, I was startled out of
my sleep by the report of fire-arms. I immediately dressed myself in
my uniform, and hastened to the barracks of my regiment. The streets
were deserted; sentinels were stationed at about fifty paces apart. I
understood that an extraordinary event had occurred in some part of
the town. When I reached the barracks I was no little astonished to
find the gates wide open, the sentry's box vacant, and not a soldier
within. I went into the infirmary, set apart for the special service
of the cholera patients, and there a serjeant told me that the bad
weather had compelled the vessel that was taking Novalès into exile to
return into the port; that about one o'clock in the morning, Novalès,
accompanied by Lieutenant Ruiz, came to the barracks, and having
made himself certain of the votes of the Creole non-commissioned
officers, put the regiment under arms, took possession of the gates,
and proclaimed himself Emperor of the Philippines.

This extraordinary intelligence caused me some anxiety. My regiment
had openly revolted; if I joined it, and were defeated, I should
be considered a traitor, and, as such, shot; if, on the contrary,
I fought against it, and the rebels proved victorious, I knew
Novalès sufficiently well to be convinced that he would not spare
me. Nevertheless I could not hesitate: duty bound me to the Spanish
government, by which I had been so well treated. I left the barracks,
rambling where chance might lead me. I shortly found myself at the
head-quarters of the artillery; an officer behind the gate stood
observing me. I went up to him, and asked him whether he was for
Spain. Upon his answering me in the affirmative, I begged him to
open the gate, declaring that I wished to join his party, and would
willingly offer my services as surgeon to them. I went in, and took
the commander's orders, which soon showed me how matters stood. During
the night Ruiz went, in the name of Novalès, to General Folgueras,
the commander during the absence of Governor Martinès, who was
detained at his country house, a short distance from Manilla. He
took the guard unawares, and seized the keys of the town, after
having stabbed Folgueras; from thence he went to the prisons, set
the prisoners at liberty, and put in their places the principal men
of the public offices belonging to the colony. The 1st Regiment was
on Government Place, ready to engage in battle; twice it attempted
to fall unexpectedly upon the artillery and citadel, but was driven
back. Many expected assistance from without, and orders from General
Martinès to attack the rebels. Very soon we heard a discharge of
artillery: it was General Martinès, who, at the head of the Queen's
Regiment, broke open Saint Lucy's Gate, and advanced into the besieged
town. The body of the artillery joined the governor-general, and we
marched towards Government Place. The insurgents placed two cannons
at the corner of each street. Scarcely had we approached the palace,
than we were exposed to a violent discharge of loaded muskets. The
head chaplain of the regiment was the first victim. We were then
engaged in a street, by the side of the fortifications, and from
which it was impossible to attack the enemy with advantage. General
Martinès changed the position of the attack, and in this condition we
came back by the street of Saint Isabelle. The troops in two lines
followed both sides of the street, and left the road free; in the
meantime the Panpangas regiment, crossing the bridge, reached us
by one of the opposite streets: the rebels were then exposed to the
opposite attacks. They nevertheless defended themselves furiously,
and their sharpshooters did us some harm. Novalès was everywhere,
encouraging his soldiers by words, exploits, and example, while
Lieutenant Ruiz was busy pointing one of the cannons, that swept the
middle of the street we were coming up. At length, after three hours'
contest, the rebels succumbed. The troops fell upon everything they
found, and Novalès was taken prisoner to the governor's. As to Ruiz,
although he had received a blow on his arm from a ball, he was
fortunate enough to jump over the fortifications, and succeeded,
for the time, in escaping; three days afterwards he was taken. The
conflict was scarcely over, than a court-martial was held. Novalès
was tried the first. At midnight he was outlawed; at two o'clock in
the morning proclaimed Emperor; and at five in the evening shot. Such
changes in fortune are not uncommon in Spanish colonies.

The court-martial, without adjourning, tried, until the middle of the
following day, all the prisoners arrested with arms. The tenth part
of the regiment was sent to the hulks, and all the non-commissioned
officers were condemned to death. I received orders to be at Government
Place by four o'clock, on which spot the executions were to take place;
two companies of each battalion of the garrison, and all the staff,
were to be present.

Towards five the doors of the town-hall opened, and between a double
file of soldiers advanced seventeen non-commissioned officers, each one
assisted by two monks of the order of Misericordia. Mournful silence
prevailed, interrupted every now and then by the doleful beating of
the drums, and the prayers of the agonising, chanted by the monks. The
procession moved slowly on, and after some time reached the palace;
the seventeen non-commissioned officers were ordered to kneel, their
faces turned towards the wall. After a lengthened beating of the drums
the monks left their victims, and at a second beating a discharge
of muskets resounded: the seventeen young men fell prostrate on the
ground. One, however, was not dead; he had fallen with the others,
and seemed apparently motionless. A few minutes after the monks
threw their black veils upon the victims: they now belonged to Divine
justice. I witnessed all that had just happened. I stood a few steps
from him who feigned death so well, and my heart beat with force
enough to burst through my chest. Would that it had been in my power
to lead one of the monks towards this unfortunate young man who must
have experienced such mortal anguish; but, alas! after having been so
miraculously spared, at the moment the black veil was about to cover
him, an officer informed the commander that a guilty man had escaped
being punished; the monks were arrested in their pious ministry, and
two soldiers received orders to approach and fire upon the poor fellow.

I was indignant at this. I advanced towards the informer and reproached
him for his cruelty; he wished to reply; I treated him as a coward,
and turned my back to him. Express orders from my colonel compelled
me to leave my house, to assist at this frightful execution; still,
deep anxiety ought to have prevented me from so doing, as I will
explain. On the eve when the battle was over, and the insurgents
routed, the distress of my dear Anna came across my mind. It was now
one o'clock in the afternoon, and she had received no tidings from
me since three in the morning; might she not think me dead, or in the
midst of the rebellion? Ah! if duty could make me forget for a moment
she whom I loved more than life, now all danger was over her charming
image returned to my mind. Dearest Anna! I beheld her pale, agitated;
asking herself at each report of the cannon whether it rendered her
a widow; when my mind became so agitated that I ran home to calm her
fears. Having reached my house I went quickly up stairs, my heart
beating violently; I paused for a moment at her door, then summoning
a little courage I entered. Anna was kneeling down praying; hearing my
footsteps she raised her head, and threw herself into my arms without
uttering a word. At first I attributed this silence to emotion, but,
alas! upon examining her lovely face, I saw her eyes looked wild,
her features contracted: I started back. I discovered in her all the
symptoms of congestion of the brain. I dreaded lest my wife had lost
her senses, and this fear alarmed me greatly. How fortunate it was
that it lay in my power to relieve her. I had her placed in bed, and
ministered myself to her wants. She was tolerably composed; the few
words she uttered were inconsistent; she seemed to think that somebody
was going to poison or kill her. All her confidence was placed in
me. During three days the remedies I prescribed and administered
were useless; the poor creature derived no benefit from them. I
therefore determined to consult the doctors in Manilla, although I
had no great opinion of their skill. They advised some insignificant
drugs, and declared to me that there were no hopes, adding, as a
philosophical mode of consolation, that death was preferable to the
loss of reason. I did not agree on this point with these gentlemen:
I would have preferred insanity to death, for I hoped that her madness
would die away by degrees, and eventually disappear altogether. How
many mad people are cured, what numbers daily recover, yet death is
the last word of humanity; and, as a young poet has truly said, is
"the stone of the tomb."

Between the world and God a curtain falls! I determined to wage a
war against death, and to save my Anna by having recourse to the most
indisputable resources of science. I looked now upon my brotherhood
with more contempt than ever, and, confident in my love and zealous
will, I began my struggle with a destiny, tinged indeed with gloomy
clouds. I shut myself up in the sick-chamber, and never left my wife. I
had great difficulty in getting her to take the medicaments I trusted
she would derive so much benefit from; I was obliged to call to my
assistance all the influence I had over her, in order to persuade
her that the draughts I presented to her were not poisoned. She did
not sleep, but appeared very drowsy; these symptoms denoted very
clearly great disorder of the brain. For nine days she remained in
this dreadful state; during which time I scarcely knew whether she
was dead or alive; at every moment I besought the Almighty to work a
miracle in her behalf. One morning the poor creature closed her eyes. I
cannot describe my feelings of anguish. Would she ever awake again? I
leant over her; I heard her breathing gently, without apparent effort;
I felt her pulse, it beat calmer and more regular; she was evidently
better. I stood by her in deep anxiety. She still remained in a calm
sleep, and at the end of half-an-hour I felt convinced that this
satisfactory crisis would restore my invalid to life and reason. I
sat down by her bed-side, and stayed there eighteen hours, watching
her slightest movements. At length, after such cruel suspense, my
patient awoke, as if out of a dream.

"Have you been long watching?" she said, giving me her hand: "Have I,
then, been very ill? What care you have taken of me! Luckily you may
rest now, for I feel I am recovered."

I think I have during my life been a sharer of the strongest emotions
of joy or of sadness man can feel; but never had I experienced
such real, heartfelt joy as when I heard Anna's words. It is easy
to imagine the state of my mind in recollecting the bitter grief
I was in for ten days; then can be understood the mental anguish I
felt. Having witnessed such strange scenes for a considerable time,
it would not have been surprising had I lost my senses. I was an
actor in a furious battle; I had seen the wounded falling around me,
and heard the death-rattle. After the frightful execution, I went home,
and there still deeper grief awaited me. I had watched by the bed-side
of a beloved wife, knowing not whether I should lose her for ever,
or see her spared to me deprived of reason; when all at once, as if by
a miracle, this dear companion of my life, restored to health, threw
herself into my arms. I wept with her; my burning eyes, aching for
want of rest, found at last some tears, but they were tears of joy and
gladness. Soon we became more composed; we related to each other all
that we had suffered. Oh! the sympathy of loving hearts! Our sorrows
bad been the same, we had shared the same fears, she for me and I for
her. Anna's rapid recovery, after her renovating slumber, enabled her
to get up; she dressed herself as usual, and the people who saw her
could not believe she had passed ten days struggling between death
and insanity--two gulphs, from which love and faith had preserved us.

I was happy; my deep sadness was speedily changed to gladness,
even visible on my features. Alas! this joy was transitory, like
all happiness; man here below is a continual prey to misfortune! My
wife, at the end of a month, relapsed into her former sickly state;
the same symptoms showed themselves again, with similar prospects,
during the same space of time. I remained again nine days at her
bed-side, and on the tenth a refreshing sleep brought her to her
senses. But this time, guided by experience, that pitiless mistress,
who gives us lessons we should ever remember, I did not rejoice
as I had done the month before. I feared lest this sudden cure
might only be a temporary recovery, and that every month my poor
invalid would relapse, until her brain becoming weaker and weaker,
she would be deranged for life. This sad idea wounded my heart, and
caused me such grief that I could not even dissimulate it before her
who inspired it. I exhausted all the resources of medicine; all these
expedients proved unavailable. I thought that perhaps, if I removed my
poor invalid from the spot where the events had occurred that caused
her disorder, her cure might be more easily effected; that perhaps
bathing and country walks in the fine weather would contribute to
hasten her recovery; therefore I invited one of her relations to
accompany us, and we set out for Tierra-Alta, a delightful spot,
a real oasis, where all things were assembled that could endear
one to life. The first days of our settling there were full of joy,
hope, and happiness. Anna got better and better every day, and her
health very much improved. We walked in beautiful gardens, under the
shade of orange-trees; they were so thick that even during the most
intense heat we were cool under their shade. A lovely river of blue
and limpid water ran through our orchard; I had some Indian baths
erected there. We went out in a pretty, light, open carriage, drawn
by four good horses, through beautiful avenues, lined on each side
with the pliant bamboo, and sown with all the various flowers of the
tropics. I leave you to judge, by this short account, that nothing
that can be wished for in the country was wanting in Tierra-Alta. For
an invalid it was a Paradise; but those are right who say there is
no perfect happiness here below. I had a wife I adored, and who loved
me with all the sincerity of a pure young heart. We lived in an Eden,
away from the world, from the noise and bustle of a city, and far, too,
from the jealous and envious. We breathed a fragrant air; the pure and
limpid waters that bathed our feet reflecting, by turns a sunny sky,
and one spangled with twinkling stars. Anna's health was improving:
it pleased me to see her so happy. What, then, was there to trouble
us in our lovely retreat? A troop of banditti! These robbers were
distributed around the suburbs of Tierra-Alta, and spread desolation
over the country and neighbourhood by the robberies and murders
they committed. There was a regiment in search of them; this they
little cared about. They were numerous, clever, and audacious; and,
notwithstanding the vigilance of the government, the band continued
their highway robberies and assassinations. In the house where I then
resided, and which I afterwards left, Aguilar, the commander of the
cavalry, who had replaced me as occupant, was fallen upon unexpectedly,
and stabbed. Several years after this period, the government was
obliged to come to some terms with these bandits, and one day twenty
men, all armed with carbines and swords, entered Manilla. Their
chieftain led them; they walked with their heads upright, their
carriage was proud and manly; in this order they went to the governor,
who made them a speech, ordered them to lay down their arms, and sent
them to the archbishop that he might exhort them. The archbishop in a
religious discourse implored of them to repent of their crimes, and
become honest citizens, and to return to their villages. These men,
who had bathed their hands in the blood of their fellow-creatures,
and who had sought in crime--or rather, in every crime--the gold they
coveted, listened attentively to God's minister, changed completely
their conduct, and became, in the end, good and quiet husbandmen.

Now let us return to my residence at Tierra-Alta, at the period when
the bandits were not converted, and might have disturbed my peaceful
abode and security. Nevertheless, whether it was carelessness, or the
confidence I had in my Indian, with whom I spent some time after the
ravages occasioned with the cholera, and with whose influence I was
acquainted, I did not fear the bandits at all. This Indian lived a
few leagues off from Tierra-Alta; he came often to see me, and said
to me on different occasions: "Fear nothing from the robbers, Senor
Doctor Pablo; they know we are friends, and that alone would suffice
to prevent them attacking you, for they would dread to displease me,
and to make me their enemy." These words put an end to my fears,
and I soon had an opportunity of seeing that the Indian had taken me
under his protection.

If any of my readers for whom I write these souvenirs feel the same
desire as I experienced to visit the cascades of Tierra-Alta, let
them go to a place called Yang-Yang; it was near this spot where
my Indian protector resided. At this part the river, obstructed in
its course by the narrowness of its channel, falls from only one
waterspout, about thirty or forty feet high, into an immense basin,
out of which the water calmly flows onwards, to form, lower down, three
other waterfalls, not so lofty, but extending over the breadth of the
river, thereby making three sheets of water, clear and transparent as
crystal. What beautiful sights are offered to the eyes of man by the
all-powerful hands of the Creator! And how often have I remarked that
the works of nature are far superior to those that men tire themselves
to erect and invent!

As we went one morning to the cascades we were about to alight
at Yang-Yang, when all at once our carriage was surrounded with
brigands, flying from the soldiers of the line. The chief--for we
supposed him to be so at first--said to his companions, not paying the
slightest attention to us, nor even addressing us: "We must kill the
horses!" By this I saw he feared lest their enemies should make use of
our horses to pursue them. With a presence of mind which fortunately
never abandons me in difficult or perilous circumstances, I said to
him: "Do not fear; my horses shall not be used by your enemies to
pursue you: rely upon my word." The chief put his hand to his cap,
and thus addressed his comrades: "If such be the case, the Spanish
soldiers will do us no harm to-day, neither let us do any. Follow
me!" They marched off, and I instantly drove rapidly away in quite
an opposite direction from the soldiers. The bandits looked after
me; my good faith in keeping my word was successful. I not only
lived a few months in safety at Tierra-Alta, but many years after,
when, I resided in Jala-Jala, and, in my quality of commander of the
territorial horse-guards of the province of Lagune, was naturally a
declared enemy of the bandits, I received the following note:


    "Sir,--Beware of Pedro Tumbaga; we are invited by him to go to
    your house and to take you by surprise; we remember the morning we
    spoke to you at the cascades, and the sincerity of your word. You
    are an honourable man. If we find ourselves face to face with
    you, and it be necessary, we will fight, but faithfully, and
    never after having laid a snare. Keep, therefore, on your guard;
    beware of Pedro Tumbaga; he is cowardly enough to hide himself
    in order to shoot you."


Everybody must acknowledge I had to do with most polite robbers.

I answered them thus:


    "You are brave fellows. I thank you for your advice, but I do
    not fear Pedro Tumbaga. I cannot conceive how it is you keep
    among you a man capable of hiding himself to kill his enemy;
    if I had a soldier like him, I would soon let him have justice,
    and without consulting the law."


A fortnight after my answer, Tumbaga was no more; a bandit's bullet
disembarrassed me of him.

I will now return to the recital I have just interrupted. When I had
left the bandits at Yang-Yang, I pulled up my horses and bethought
me of Anna. I was anxious to know what impression had been produced
on her mind from this unpleasant encounter. Fortunately my fears were
unfounded; my wife had not been at all alarmed, and when I asked her
if she was frightened, she replied: "Frightened, indeed! am I not with
you?" Subsequently I had good proofs that she told me the truth, for
in many perilous circumstances she always presented the same presence
of mind. When I thought there was no longer any danger we retraced our
steps and went home, satisfied with the conduct of the bandits towards
us, for their manner of acting clearly showed us that they intended us
no harm. I mentally thanked my Indian friend, for to him I attributed
the peace our turbulent neighbours allowed us to enjoy. The fatal time
was drawing near when my wife would again be suffering from another
attack of that frightful malady brought on by Novalès revolt. I had
hoped that the country air, the baths, and amusements of every kind
would cure my poor invalid; my hopes were deceived, and, as in the
preceding month, I had the grief once more to assist at a period of
physical and mental suffering. I despaired: I knew not what course
to pursue. I decided, however, upon remaining at Tierra-Alta. My
dear companion was happy there on the days her health was better,
and on the other days I never left her, endeavouring by every means
that art and imagination could invent to fight against this fatal
malady. At length my care, attempts, and efforts were successful, and
at the periods the symptoms usually returned I had the happiness not
to observe them, and believed in the certainty of a final cure. I then
felt the joy one experiences after having for a long time been on the
point of losing a very dear friend, who suddenly recovers. I now gave
myself up without fear to the various pleasures Tierra-Alta offers.






CHAPTER IV.

    Hunting the Stag--Indian Mode of Chasing the Wild Buffalo: its
    Ferocity--Dangerous Sport--Capture of a Buffalo--Narrow Escape of
    an Indian Hunter--Return to Manilla--Injustice of the Governor--My
    Resignation of Office--I Purchase Property at Jala-Jala--Retire
    from Manilla to Take Possession of my Domains--Chinese
    Legend--Festival of St Nicholas--Quinaboutasan--Description
    of Jala-Jala--Interview with a Bandit Chief--Formation of a
    Guard--Preparations for Building--Visit to Manilla, and Return
    to Jala-Jala--Completion of my House--Reception of my Wife by
    the Natives--The Government of the Philippines--Character of the
    Tagaloc Indians--Unmerited Chastisement--A Curate Appointed--Our
    Labours at Civilisation--My Hall of Justice--Buffalo Hunting
    Expedition.


Naturally fond of hunting, I often went to the home of my Indian
friend in the Marigondon mountains. Together we chased the stag,
and killed the various kinds of birds which abound in these regions
to such an extent that one may always choose between fifteen or
twenty different species of pigeons, wild ducks, and fowl, and it
frequently happened that I brought down five or six at a shot. The
manner of killing wild fowl (a sort of pheasant) much amused me. We
rode across the large plains, strewed with young wood, on good and
beautiful horses, broken in for the purpose; the dogs raised the game,
and, armed with whips, we endeavoured to knock the birds down at a
single blow, which is not so difficult as might be imagined. When a
number of the frightened flocks left the shelter of the wood we put
our steeds to the gallop, and it became a veritable steeple-chase,
such as amateur jockeys would much delight in. I also hunted the stag
with the lance, on horseback; this sport is likewise very amusing,
but, unfortunately, often attended with accidents. This is how they
occur:--The horses employed are so well trained to the sport, that
as soon as they perceive the stag it is no longer necessary, neither
is it possible, to guide them; they pursue the animal at the top of
their speed, and leap over every obstruction before them. The horseman
carries a lance seven or eight feet long, which he holds in readiness
to cast as soon as he thinks himself within reach of the stag. If he
misses his aim the lance sticks in the ground, and it then requires
great skill to avoid coming in contact with the opposite end, which
often wounds either the hunter or the horse. I speak not of the falls
to which one is liable from going at a furious gallop along unknown
and uneven roads. I had already enjoyed this sport during my first
sojourn at the Indian's, but, well as I acquitted myself, I was never
able to gain his permission that I should assist at a chase far more
dangerous, and which I might almost call a combat--that of the wild
buffalo. To all my questions my host had replied: "In this sport there
is much to fear: I would not expose you to the risk." He avoided, also,
taking me near that part of the plain touching upon the mountains of
Marigondon, where these animals could generally be found. However,
after repeated solicitation, I managed to obtain what I so ardently
desired; the Indian only wished to know whether I was a good horseman,
if I possessed dexterity; and when he had satisfied himself on these
two points, we started one fine morning, accompanied by nine huntsmen
and a small pack of dogs. In this part of the Philippines the buffalo
is hunted on horseback, and taken with the lasso, the Indians not being
much accustomed to the use of guns. In other parts fire-arms are used,
as I shall have occasion to recount in another part of my narrative;
but, in whichever case, there is little difference in the danger,
for the one requires good riding and great skill, the other much
presence of mind and a good gun.

The wild buffalo is quite different from the domesticated animal;
it is a terrible creature, pursuing the hunter as soon as it gets
sight of him, and, should he transfix him with its terrible horns, he
would promptly expiate his rashness. My faithful Indian was much more
anxious about my safety than his own. He objected to my taking a gun;
he had little confidence in my skill with the lasso, and preferred
that I should merely sit on horseback, unarmed and unencumbered
in my movements; accordingly I set out, with a dagger for my sole
weapon. We divided our party by threes, and rode gently about the
plains, taking care to keep at a distance from the edge of the wood,
lest we should be surprised by the animal we were seeking.

After riding for about an hour, we at last heard the baying of
the dogs, and understood that the enemy was forced from its forest
retreat. We watched with the deepest attention the spot where we
expected him to break forth. He required a great deal of coaxing
before he would show; at last there was a sudden crashing noise
in the wood; branches were broken, young trees overthrown, and a
superb buffalo showed himself, at about one hundred and fifty paces'
distance. He was of a beautiful black, and his horns were of very large
dimensions. He carried his head high, and snuffed the air as though
scenting his enemies. Suddenly starting off at a speed incredible in
so bulky an animal, he made for one of our groups, composed of three
Indians, who immediately put their horses to a gallop, and distributed
themselves in the form of a triangle. The buffalo selected one of them,
and impetuously charged him. As he did so, another of the Indians,
whom he passed in his furious career, wheeled his horse and threw the
lasso he held ready in his hand; but he was not expert, and missed
his aim. Thereupon the buffalo changed his course, and pursued the
imprudent man who had thus attacked him, and who now rode right in
our direction. A second detachment of three hunters went to meet the
brute; one of them passed near him at a gallop, and threw his lasso,
but was as unsuccessful as his comrade. Three other hunters made the
attempt; not one of them succeeded. I, as a mere spectator, looked
on with admiration at this combat--at those evolutions, flights, and
pursuits, executed with such order and courage, and with a precision
that was truly extraordinary.

I had often witnessed bull-fights, and often had I shuddered at seeing
the toreadors adopt a similar method in order to turn the furious
animal from the pursuit of the picador. But what comparison could
possibly be established between a combat in an enclosed arena and
this one in the open plain--between the most terrible of bulls and
a wild buffalo? Fiery and hot-blooded Spaniards, proud Castilians,
eager for perilous spectacles, go, hunt the buffalo in the plains
of the Marigondon! After much flight and pursuit, hard riding, and
imminent peril, a dexterous hunter encircled the animal's horns with
his lasso. The buffalo slackened his speed, and shook and tossed
his head, stopping now and then to try to get rid of the obstacle
which impeded his career. Another Indian, not less skilful than his
predecessor, threw his lasso with a like rapidity and success. The
furious beast now ploughed the earth with his horns, making the
soil fly around him, as if anxious to display his strength, and to
show what havoc he would have made with any of us who had allowed
themselves to be surprised by him. With much care and precaution the
Indians conveyed their prize into a neighbouring thicket. The hunters
uttered a shout of joy; for my part I could not repress a cry of
admiration. The animal was vanquished; it needed but a few precautions
to master him completely. I was much surprised to see the Indians
excite him with voice and gesture until he resumed the offensive,
and bounded from the ground with fury. What would have been our fate
had he succeeded in shaking off or breaking the lassos! Fortunately,
there was no danger of this. An Indian dismounted, and, with great
agility, attached to the trunk of a solid tree the two lassos that
retained the savage beast; then he gave the signal that his office
was accomplished, and retired. Two hunters approached, threw their
lassos over the animal, and fixed the ends to the ground with stakes;
and now our prey was thoroughly subdued, and reduced to immobility,
so that we could approach him with impunity. With blows of their
cutlasses the Indians hacked off his horns, which would so well have
revenged him had he been free to use them; then, with a pointed bamboo,
they pierced the membranes that separate the nostrils, and passed
through them a cane twisted in the form of a ring. In this state
of martyrdom they fastened him securely behind two tame buffaloes,
and led him to the next village.

Here the animal was killed, and the hunters divided the carcass, the
flesh of which is equal in flavour to beef. I had been fortunate in my
first essay, for such encounters with these shaggy sovereigns of the
plain do not always end so easily. A few days afterwards we renewed
the sport, which, alas! terminated with an accident of too frequent
occurrence. An Indian was surprised by a buffalo, at the moment the
animal issued from the wood. With one blow from his horns the horse
was impaled and cast to the earth, while his Indian rider fell near
to him. The inequality of the ground offered some chance of the man
escaping the notice of his redoubtable foe, until the latter, by a
sudden movement of his head, turned the horse over upon his rider,
and inflicted several blows with his horns, either of which would have
proved fatal, but from the force becoming diminished in traversing
the carcass of the horse. Fortunately some of the other sportsmen
succeeded in turning the animal, and compelled him to abandon his
victim. It was indeed time, for we found the poor Indian half dead,
and terribly gored by the horns of the buffalo. We succeeded in
stopping the blood which flowed copiously from his wounds, and
carried him to the village upon a hastily constructed litter. It was
only by considerable care and attention that his care was eventually
effected, and my friend the Indian strongly opposed my assisting at
such dangerous sport for the future.

Anna's health was now completely re-established. I no longer dreaded
the return of her fearful malady. During the space of several
months I had enjoyed all the pleasures that Tierra-Alta afforded,
and my affairs now requiring my presence at Manilla we set out for
that city. Immediately after my arrival I was compelled, much to my
regret, to resume my ordinary occupation; that is, to visit the sick
from morning to night, and from night to morning. My profession did
not well accord with my natural character, for I was not sufficiently
philosophic to witness, without pain, the sufferings I was incapable
of alleviating, and, above all, to watch the death-beds of fathers,
of mothers, and of dearly loved children. In a word, I did not act
professionally, for I never sent in my bills; my patients paid me
when and how they could. To their honour, I am bound to say that I
rarely had to complain of forgetfulness. Besides, my appointments
permitted me to live sumptuously, to have eight horses in my stables,
and to keep open house to my friends and the strangers who visited
Manilla. Soon, however, what my friends designated a coup-de-tête
caused me to lose all these advantages.

Every month I summoned a council of revision in the regiment to
which I belonged. One day I brought forward a young soldier for
rejection; all went well; but a native surgeon, long jealous of my
reputation, was nominated by the governor to make inquiry and check my
declaration. He naturally inserted in his report that I was deceived;
that the malady of which I spoke was imaginary; and he succeeded in
all this so well that the governor, enraged, condemned me in a penalty
of six piasters. The following month I again brought forward the same
soldier, as being incapable of performing his duties; a commission
of eight surgeons was nominated; their decision was unanimous in my
favour, and the soldier was accordingly discharged. This reparation
not quite satisfying me, I presented an appeal to the governor, who
would not receive it, upon the strange pretext that the decision of
the medical committee could not annul his. I confess that I did not
understand this argument. This method of reasoning, if reasoning it
was, appeared to me specious in the extreme. Why allow the innocent
to suffer, and the ignorant practitioner, who had contradicted my
opinions and deceived himself, to escape? This injustice revolted
me. I am a Breton, and I have lived with Indians--two natures which
love only right and justice. I was so much annoyed by the governor's
conduct towards me that I went to him, not to make another reclamation,
but to tender my resignation of the important offices which I held. He
received me with a specious smile, and told me that after a little
reflection I should change my mind. The poor governor, however, was
deceived, for, on leaving his palace, I went direct to the minister
of finance and purchased the property of Jala-Jala. My course was
marked out, my resolution unshakable. Although my resignation was
not yet duly accepted, I began to act as though I was completely
free. I had at the beginning informed Anna of the matter, and had
asked her if she would reside at Jala-Jala. "With you I should be
happy anywhere." Such was her answer. I was free, then, to act as I
pleased, and could go wherever my destiny might lead me. I forthwith
decided upon visiting the land that I had purchased.

For the execution of this project it was necessary to find a faithful
Indian upon whom I could rely. From among my domestics I chose the
coachman, a brave and discreet man, who was devoted to me. I took some
arms, ammunition, and provisions. At Lapindan, a small village near the
town of Santa Anna, I freighted a small boat worked by three Indians:
and one morning, without making my project known to my friends, and
without inquiring whether the governor had replaced me, I set out to
take possession of my domains, respiring the vivifying and pure air of
liberty. I ascended in my pirogue--which skimmed along the surface of
the waters like a sea-gull--the pretty river Pasig, which issues from
the lake of Bay, and traverses, on its way to the sea, the suburbs of
Manilla. The banks of this river are planted with thickets of bamboo,
and studded with pretty Indian habitations; above the large town of
Pasig it receives the waters of the river St. Mateo, at the spot where
that river unites itself with that of the Pasig. Upon the left bank
are still seen the ruins of the chapel and parsonage of St. Nicholas,
built by the Chinese, as the legend I am about to relate informs us.

At an unknown epoch, a Chinese who was once sailing in a canoe, either
upon the river Pasig, or that of St. Mateo, suddenly perceived an
alligator making for his frail bark, which it immediately capsized. On
his finding himself thus plunged in the water, the unfortunate Chinese
whose only prospect was that of making a meal for the ferocious animal,
invoked the aid of St. Nicholas. You, perhaps, would not have done
so, nor I either; and we should have been wrong, for the idea was a
good one. The good St. Nicholas listened to the cries of the unhappy
castaway, appeared to his wondering eyes, and with a stroke of a
wand, like some benevolent fairy, changed the threatening crocodile
into a rock, and the Chinese was saved. But do not imagine that the
legend ends here; the Chinese are not an ungrateful people--China
is the land of porcelain, of tea, and of gratitude. The Chinese who
had thus escaped from the cruel fate that awaited him, felt desirous
of consecrating the memory of the miracle; and, in concert with his
brethren of Manilla, he built a pretty chapel and parsonage in honour
of the good St. Nicholas. This chapel was for a long time officiated
in by a bonze; and every year, at the festival of the saint, the rich
Chinese of Manilla assembled there in thousands, to give a series of
fêtes which lasted for fifteen days. But it happened that an archbishop
of Manilla, looking upon this worship offered up by Chinese gratitude
as nothing but paganism, caused both the chapel and parsonage to be
unroofed. These harsh measures had no other result than to admit the
rain into the buildings; but the worship due to St. Nicholas still
continued, and remains to this day. Perhaps this arises from the
attempt to suppress it!

At present, at the period when this festival takes place--that is,
about the 6th of November every year--a delightful view presents
itself. During the night large vessels may be seen, upon which are
built palaces actually several stories high, terminating in pyramids,
and lit up from the base to the summit. All these lights are reflected
in the placid waters of the river, and seem to augment the number of
the stars, whose tremulous images dance on the surface of the waters:
it is an extemporised Venice! In these palaces they give themselves
up to play, to smoking opium, and to the pleasures of music. The
pévété, a species of Chinese incense, is burning everywhere and at
all times in honour of St. Nicholas, who is invoked every morning
by throwing into the river small square pieces of paper of various
colours. St. Nicholas, however, does not make his appearance; but
the fête continues for a fortnight, at the termination of which the
faithful retire till the year following.

And now that the reader is acquainted with the legend of the crocodile,
of the Chinese, and of the good St. Nicholas, I will resume my voyage.

I sailed on peaceably upon the Pasig, proceeding to the conquest of my
new dominions, and indulging in golden dreams. I gazed on the light
smoke of my cigarette, without reflecting that my dreams, my castles
in the air, must evaporate like it! I soon found myself in the lake
of Bay. The lake occupies an extent of thirty leagues, and I greatly
admired this fine sheet of water, bounded in the distance by mountains
of fantastic forms. At length I arrived at Quinaboutasan--this is a
Tagal word, which signifies "that which is perforated." Quinaboutasan
is situated on a strait, which separates the island of Talem from
the continent. We stopped for an hour in the only Indian hut there
was in the place, to cook some rice and take our repast. This hut
was inhabited by a very old fisherman and his wife. They were still,
however, able to supply their wants by fishing. At a later period I
shall have occasion to speak of old Relempago, or the "Thunderer,"
and to recount his history. When I was in the centre of the sheet of
water which separates Talem from Jala-Jala, I came in sight of the new
domain which I had so easily acquired, and I could form some opinion of
my acquisition at a glance. Jala-Jala is a long peninsula, extending
from north to south, in the middle of the lake of Bay. This peninsula
is divided longitudinally for the space of three leagues by a chain of
mountains, which diminish gradually in height till they become mere
hillocks. These mountains, are easy of access, and generally covered
on one side with forests, and on the other with fine pasturage,
abounding with waving and flexible grass, three or four feet high,
which, agitated by the breeze, resembles the waves of the sea when in
motion. It is impossible to find more splendid vegetation, which is
watered by pure and limpid springs that gush from the mountain heights,
and roll in a meandering course to join the waters of the lake. These
pasture grounds constitute Jala-Jala the greatest game preserve
in the island: wild boars, deer, buffaloes, fowls, quail, snipe,
pigeons of fifteen or twenty different varieties, parrots--in short
all sorts of birds abound in them. The lake is equally well supplied
with aquatic birds, and particularly wild ducks. Notwithstanding its
extent, the island produces neither noxious nor carnivorous animals;
the only things to be apprehended are the civet cat, which only preys
upon birds, and the monkeys, which issue in troops from the forests
to ravage the fields of maize and sugar-cane. The lake, which abounds
with excellent fish, is less favoured in this respect than the land,
for it contains numerous crocodiles and alligators, of such immense
size that in a few moments one of them can tear a horse to pieces,
and swallow it in its monstrous stomach. The accidents they occasion
are frequent and terrible, and I have seen many Indians become their
victims, as I shall subsequently relate. I ought, doubtless, to have
begun by speaking of the human beings who inhabited the forests of
Jala-Jala, but I am a sportsman, and must therefore be excused for
beginning with the game.

At the time I purchased it Jala-Jala was inhabited by some Malay
Indians, who lived in the woods, and cultivated a few spots of
ground. During the night they carried on the trade of piracy, and
gave shelter to all the banditti of the neighbouring provinces. At
Manilla this country had been described to me in the most gloomy
colours. According to the citizens of that place it would not be long
before I fell a victim to these robbers. My adventurous disposition,
however, only made all these predictions, instead of frightening me,
increase my desire to visit these men, who lived in an almost savage
state. As soon as I had purchased Jala-Jala, I had laid down a line of
conduct for myself, the object of which was to attach to me such of
the inhabitants as were the most to be dreaded. I resolved to become
the friend of these banditti, and for this purpose I knew that I must
go amongst them, not like a sordid and exacting landlord but like a
father. For the execution of my enterprise, everything depended on the
first impression that I should make on these Indians, who had become
my vassals. When I had landed, I directed my steps along the borders
of the lake, towards a little hamlet composed of a few cabins. I was
accompanied by my faithful coachman; we were both armed with a good
double-barreled gun, a brace of pistols, and a sabre. I had taken the
precaution of ascertaining from some fishermen the name of the Indian
to whom I should especially address myself. This man, who was the most
respected amongst his countrymen, was called in the Tagal language,
"Mabutiu-Tajo," which may be translated the "bravest of the brave"
he was a thorough-paced robber, a real piratical chief; a fellow that
would not hesitate to commit five or six murders in one expedition;
but he was brave, and with a primitive people bravery is a quality
before which they bow with respect. My conference with Mabutiu-Tajo
was not long. A few words were enough to win me his favour, and to
make him my faithful servant during the whole time I remained at
Jala-Jala. This is the manner in which I spoke to him: "You are a
great villain," I said; "I am the lord of Jala-Jala. I insist on your
changing your conduct; if you refuse, I shall punish you for all your
misdeeds. I have occasion for a guard: will you pledge me your honour
to become an honest man, and I will make you my lieutenant?"

After these few words, Alila (this was the name of the robber)
continued silent for a few moments, while his countenance displayed the
marks of profound reflection. I awaited his answer with considerable
anxiety and doubt as to what it would be.

"Master," he at length replied, with enthusiasm, presenting me his
hand, and bending one knee to the ground: "I shall be faithful to
you till death!"

His answer made me happy, but I did not let him see my satisfaction.

"Well and good," I replied; "to show you that I confide in you,
take this weapon, and use it only against the enemy."

I gave him a Tagal sabre, which bore the following Spanish inscription,
in large letters: "No me sacas sin rason, ni me envainas sin
honor." "Never draw me unjustly, and never sheath me with dishonour."

I translated this legend into the Tagaloc language: Alila thought it
sublime, and vowed never to deviate from it.

"When I go to Manilla," I added, "I shall procure you a handsome
uniform, with epaulettes; but you must lose no time in assembling
the soldiers you will have to command, and who are to form my
guard. Conduct me to the house of one of your comrades whom you
think most capable of obeying you as serjeant." We went some distance
from his cabin to the hut of one of his friends, who almost always
accompanied him in his piratical excursions. A few words like those
I had spoken to my future lieutenant produced a similar influence
on his comrade, and induced him to accept the rank I offered him. We
occupied the day in recruiting amongst the various huts, and in the
evening we had a guard of ten effective men, infantry and cavalry,
a number I did not wish to exceed.

Of these I took the command as captain; and thus, as will be seen,
I went promptly to work. The following day I assembled the population
of the peninsula, and, surrounded by my extempore guard, I chose a
situation where I wished to found a village, and a site on which
I wished my own habitation to be built. I ordered the heads of
families to construct their huts on an allotment which I indicated,
and I directed my lieutenant to employ as many hands as possible, to
quarry stones, to cut down timber for the wood-work, and to prepare
everything in short for my house. Having issued my orders, I departed
for Manilla, promising to return soon. When I reached home, I found
them in a state of inquietude, for, as nothing had been heard of me,
it was thought I had fallen a prey to the crocodiles, or a victim to
the pirates. The recital of my journey, and the description I gave of
Jala-Jala, far from disgusting my wife with the idea I had conceived
of inhabiting that country, made her, on the contrary, impatient to
visit our estate, and to establish herself there. It was, however, a
farewell she was taking of the capital--of its fêtes, its assemblies,
and its pleasures.

I paid a visit to the governor. My resignation had been considered as
null and void: he had preserved all my places for me. I was touched
by this goodness. I sincerely thanked him, but told him that I was
really in earnest, that my resolution was irrevocably fixed, and that
he might otherwise dispose of my employments. I added, that I only
asked him for one favour, that of commanding all the local gendarmerie
of the province of La Lagune, with the privilege of having a personal
guard, which I would form myself. This favour was instantly granted,
and a few days after I received my commission. It was not ambition
that suggested to me the idea of asking for this important post,
but sound reason. My object was to establish an authority for myself
at Jala-Jala, and to have in my own hands the power of punishing my
Indians, without recurring to the justice of the alcaid, who lived
ten leagues away from my dominions.

Wishing to be comfortably settled in my new residence, I drew
out a plan of my house. It consisted of a first-floor, with five
bed-chambers, a large hall, a spacious drawing-room, a terrace, and
bathing rooms. I agreed with a master-mason and a master carpenter
for the construction of it; and having obtained arms and uniforms
for my guard, I set out again. On arriving I was received with joy
by my Indians. My lieutenant had punctually executed my orders. A
great quantity of material was prepared, and several Indian huts were
already built.

This activity gave me pleasure, as it evinced a desire for my
gratification. I immediately set my labourers to work, ordering them
to clear away the surrounding wood, and I soon had the pleasure of
laying the foundation of my residence; I then went to Manilla. The
works lasted for eight months, during which time I passed backwards and
forwards continually from Manilla to Jala-Jala, and from Jala-Jala to
Manilla. I had some trouble, but I was well repaid for it when I saw
a village rise from the earth. My Indians constructed their huts on
the places I had indicated; they had reserved a site for a church,
and, until this should be built, mass was to be celebrated in the
vestibule of my mansion. At length, after many journeys to and fro,
which gave great uneasiness to my wife, I was enabled to inform her
that the castle of Jala-Jala was ready to receive its mistress. This
was a pleasing piece of intelligence, for we were soon to be no
longer separated.

I quickly sold my horses, my carriages, and useless furniture, and
freighted a vessel to convey to Jala-Jala all that I required. Then,
having taken leave of my friends, I quitted Manilla, with the
intention of not returning to it but through absolute necessity. Our
journey was prosperous, and on our arrival, we found my Indians
on the shore, hailing with cries of joy the welcome advent of the
"Queen of Jala-Jala," for it was thus they called my wife.

We devoted the first days after our arrival to installing ourselves
in our new residence, which it was necessary to furnish, and make both
useful and agreeable; this we accordingly effected. And now that years
have elapsed, and I am far removed from that period of independence
and perfect liberty, I reflect on the strangeness of my destiny. My
wife and I were the only white and civilised persons in the midst of a
bronzed and almost savage population, and yet I felt no apprehension. I
relied on my arms, on my self-possession, and on the fidelity of my
guards. Anna was only aware of a part of the dangers we incurred,
and her confidence in me was so great, that when by my side she knew
not what it was to fear. When I was well established in my house, I
undertook a difficult and dangerous task, that of establishing order
amongst my Indians, and organizing my little town according to the
custom of the Philippine islands. The Spanish laws, with reference to
the Indians, are altogether patriarchal. Every township is erected,
so to speak, into a little republic. Every year a chief is elected,
dependant for affairs of importance on the governor of the province,
which latter, in his turn, depends on the governor of the Philippine
islands. I confess that I have always considered the mode of government
peculiar to the Philippines as the most convenient and best adapted
for civilization. The Spaniards, at the period of their conquest,
found it in full operation in the isle of Luzon.

I shall here enter into some details. Every Indian population is
divided into two classes, the noble and the popular. The first is
composed of all Indians who are, or have been cabessas de barangay,
that is to say, collectors of taxes, which situation is honorary. The
taxes established by the Spaniards are personal. Every Indian of more
than twenty-one years of age pays, in four instalments, the annual sum
of three francs; which tax is the same to the rich and the poor. At a
certain period of the year, twelve of the cabessas de barangay become
electors, and assembling together with some of the old inhabitants of
the township, they elect, by ballot, three of their number, whose names
are forwarded to the governor of the Philippines. The latter chooses
from amongst these names whichever he pleases, and confides to him
for one year the functions of gobernadorcillo, or deputy-governor. To
distinguish him from the other Indians, the deputy-governor bears
a gold-headed cane, with which he has a right to strike such of his
fellow-citizens as may have committed slight faults. His functions
partake at the same time of those of mayor, justice of the peace,
and examining magistrate. He watches over good order and public
tranquillity; he decides, without appeal, suits and differences of
no higher importance than sixteen piasters (£3 6s. 8d.). He also
institutes criminal suits of high importance, but there his power
ceases. The documents connected with these suits are sent by him to
the governor of the province, who, in his turn, transmits them to
the royal court of Manilla. The court gives judgment, and the alcaid
carries it into execution. When the election for deputy-governor takes
place, the assembled electors choose all the officials who are to act
under him. These are alguazils, whose number is proportioned to the
population; two witnesses, or assistants, who are charged with the
confirmation of the acts of the deputy-governor--for without their
presence and sanction his acts would be considered null and void;
a jouès de palma, or palm judge, with the functions of rural guard;
a vaccinator, bound to be always furnished with vaccine matter, for
newborn children; and a schoolmaster, charged with public instruction;
finally, a sort of gendarmerie, to watch banditti and the state of
the roads within the precincts of the commune and the neighbouring
lands. Men, grown up, and without employment, form a civic guard, who
watch over the safety of the village. This guard indicates the hours
of the night, by blows struck upon a large piece of hollow wood. There
is in each town a parochial house, which is called Casa Réal, where
the deputy-governor resides. He is bound to afford hospitality to all
travellers who pass through the town, which hospitality is like that
of the Scotch mountaineers--it is given, but never sold. During two
or three days, the traveller has a right to lodging, in which he is
supplied with a mat, a pillow, salt, vinegar, wood, cooking vessels,
and--paying for the same--all descriptions of food necessary for
his subsistence. If, on his departure, he should even require horses
and guides to continue his journey, they are procured for him. With
respect to the prices of provisions, in order to prevent the abuses
so frequent amongst us, a large placard is fixed up in every Casa
Réal, containing a tariff of the market prices of meat, poultry,
fish, fruit, &c. In no case whatever can the deputy-governor exact
any remuneration for the trouble he is at.

Such were the measures that I wished to adopt, and which, it is true,
possessed advantages and disadvantages. The greatest inconvenience
attending them was undoubtedly that of placing myself in a state
of dependence upon the deputy-governor, whose functions gave him a
certain right, for I was his administrator. It is true that my rank,
as commandant of all the gendarmerie of the province, shielded me from
any injustice that might be contemplated against me. I knew very well
that, beyond military service, I could inflict no punishment on my men
without the intervention of the deputy-governor; but I had sufficiently
studied the Indian character to know that I could only rule it by the
most perfect justice and a well-understood severity. But whatever were
the difficulties I foresaw, without any apprehension of the troubles
and dangers of every description that I should have to surmount,
I proceeded straightforward towards the object I had traced out for
myself. The road was sterile and encumbered with rocks; but I entered
upon it with courage, and I succeeded in obtaining over the Indians
such an influence, that they ultimately obeyed my voice as they would
that of a parent. The character of the Tagaloc is extremely difficult
to define. Lavater and Gall would have been very much embarrassed by
it; for both physiognomy and craniology would be, perhaps, equally
at a loss amongst the Philippines.

The natural disposition of the Tagal Indian is a mixture of vices
and virtues, of good and bad qualities. A worthy priest has said,
when speaking of them: "They are great children and must be treated
as if they were little ones."

It is really curious to trace, and still more so to read, the moral
portrait of a native of the Philippine islands. The Indian keeps his
word, and yet--will it be believed?--he is a liar. Anger he holds in
horror, he compares it to madness; and even prefers drunkenness, which,
however, he despises. He will not hesitate to use the dagger to avenge
himself for injustice; but what he can least submit to is an insult,
even when merited. When he has committed a fault, he may be punished
with a flogging; this he receives without a murmur, but he cannot brook
an insult. He is brave, generous, and a fatalist. The profession of a
robber, which he willingly exercises, is agreeable to him, on account
of the life of liberty and adventure it affords, and not because it may
lead to riches. Generally speaking, the Tagalocs are good fathers and
good husbands, both these qualities being inherent. Horribly jealous
of their wives, but not in the least of the honour of their daughters;
and it matters little if the women they marry have committed errors
previous to their union. They never ask for a dowry, they themselves
provide it, and make presents to the parents of their brides. They
dislike cowards, but willingly attach themselves to the man who is
brave enough to face danger. Play is their ruling passion, and they
delight in the combats of animals, especially in cock-fighting. This
is a brief compendium of the character of the people I was about
to govern. My first care was to become master of myself. I made a
firm resolution never to allow a gesture of impatience to escape me,
in their presence, even in the most critical moments, and to preserve
at all times unshaken calmness and sang-froid. I soon learned that it
was dangerous to listen to the communications that were made to me,
which might lead me to the commission of injustice, as had already
happened under the following circumstances.

Two Indians came one day to lodge a complaint against one of their
comrades, living at some leagues' distance from Jala-Jala. These
informers accused him of having stolen cattle. After I had heard all
they had to say, I set off with my guard to seize upon the accused, and
brought him to my residence. There I endeavoured to make him confess
his crime, but he denied it, and said he was innocent. It was in vain
I promised him if he would tell the truth to grant him his pardon, for
he persisted even in the presence of his accusers. Persuaded, however,
that he was telling me falsehoods, and disgusted with his obstinacy
in denying a fact which had been sworn to me, with every appearance
of sincerity, I ordered him to be tied upon a bench, and receive a
dozen strokes of a whip. My orders were executed; but the culprit
denied the charge, as he had done before. This dogged perseverance
irritated me, and I caused another correction to be administered to him
the same as the first. The unfortunate man bore his punishment with
unshaken courage: but in the midst of his sufferings he exclaimed,
in penetrating accents: "Oh! sir, I swear to you that I am innocent;
but, as you will not believe me, take me into your house. I will be a
faithful servant, and you will soon have proofs that I am the victim of
an infamous calumny." These words affected me. I reflected that this
unfortunate man was, perhaps, not guilty after all. I began to fear I
had been deceived, and had unknowingly committed an act of injustice. I
felt that private enmity might have led these two witnesses to make
a false declaration, and thus induce me to punish an innocent man. I
ordered him to be untied. "The proof you demand," I said to him, "is
easily tried. If you are an honest man, I shall be a father to you;
but if you deceive me, do not expect any pity from me. From this moment
you shall be one of my guard; my lieutenant will provide you with
arms." He thanked me earnestly, and his countenance lit up with sudden
joy. He was installed in my guard. Oh! human justice! how fragile,
and how often unintelligible art thou! Some time after this event,
I learnt that Bazilio de la Cruz--this was the name of the man--was
innocent. The two wretches who had denounced him had fled, to avoid
the chastisement they merited. Bazilio kept his promise, and during my
residence at Jala-Jala he served me faithfully and without malice or
ill-will. This fact made a lively impression on me; and I vowed that
for the future I would inflict no punishment without being sure of
the truth of the charge alleged. I have religiously kept this vow--at
least I think so; for I have never since ordered a single application
of the whip until after the culprit had confessed his crime.

I have before said that I had expressed a wish to have a church
built in my village, not only from a religious feeling, but as a
means of civilisation: I was particularly desirous of having a curate
at Jala-Jala. With this view I requested Monseigneur Hilarion, the
archbishop, whose physician I had been, and with whom I was on terms of
friendship, to send me a clergyman of my acquaintance, and who was at
that time unemployed. I had, however, much difficulty in obtaining this
nomination. "Father Miguel de San-Francisco," the archbishop replied,
"is a violent man, and very headstrong: you will never be able to live
with him." I persisted, however; and as perseverance always produces
some result, I at length succeeded in having him appointed curate
at Jala-Jala. Father Miguel was of Japanese and Malay descent. He
was young, strong, brave, and very capable of assisting me in the
difficult circumstances that might occur; as, for example, if it were
necessary to defend ourselves against banditti. Indeed I must say that,
in spite of the anticipations, and I may add the prejudices, of my
honourable friend the archbishop, I kept him with me during the whole
time of my abode at Jala-Jala, and never had the slightest difference
with him. I can only reproach him with one thing to be regretted,
which is that he did not preach sufficiently to his flock. He gave
them only one sermon annually, and then his discourse was always the
same, and divided into two parts: the first was in Spanish, for our
edification, and the second in Tagaloc, for the Indians. Ah! how many
men have I since met with who might well imitate the worthy curate
of Jala-Jala! To the observations I sometimes made he would reply:
"Let me follow my own course, and fear nothing. So many words are not
necessary to make a good Christian." Perhaps he was right. Since my
departure from the place the good priest is dead, bearing with him
to the tomb the regret of all his parishioners.

As may be seen, I was at the beginning of my labour of
civilisation. Anna assisted me with all her heart, and with all her
intelligence, and no fatigue disheartened her. She taught the young
girls to love that virtue which she practised so well herself. She
furnished them with clothes, for at this period the young girls from
ten to twelve years of age were still as naked as savages. Father
Miguel de San Francisco was charged with the mission more especially
belonging to his sacred character. The more readily to disseminate
through the colony that instruction which is the beneficent parent of
civilisation, the young people were divided into squads of four at a
time, and went by turns to pass a fortnight at the parsonage. There
they learned a little Spanish, and were moulded to the customs of
a world which had been hitherto unknown to them. I superintended
everything in general. I occupied myself in works of agriculture,
and giving proper instruction to the shepherds who kept the flocks I
had purchased to make use of my pasturage. I was also the mediator of
all the differences which arose amongst my colonists. They preferred
rather to apply to me than to the deputy-governor; and I succeeded
at last in obtaining over them the influence I desired. One portion
of my time, and this was not the least busy, was occupied in driving
the banditti from my residence and its vicinity. Sometimes I set
off for this purpose before daybreak and did not return until night;
and then I always found my wife good, affectionate, and devoted to
me: her reception repaid me for the labours of the day. Oh, felicity
almost perfect! I have never forgotten you! Happy period! which has
left indelible traces in my memory, you are always present to my
thoughts! I have grown old, but my heart has ever continued young in
recollecting you.

In our long chit-chat of an evening we recounted to each other the
labours of the day, and everything that occurred to us. This was
the season of sweet mutual confidence. Hours too soon vanished,
alas! Fugitive moments, you will never return! It was also the time
when I gave audience; real bed of justice, imitated from St. Louis,
and thrown open to my subjects. The door of my mansion admitted all
the Indians who had anything to communicate to me. Seated with my
wife at a great round table, I listened, as I took my tea, to all the
requests that were made to me, all the claims that were laid before
me. It was during these audiences that I issued my sentences. My guards
brought the culprits before me, and, without departing from my ordinary
calmness, I admonished them for the faults they had committed; but I
always recollected the error I bad committed in my sentence against
poor Bazilio, and I was, therefore, very circumspect. I first listened
to the witnesses; but I never condemned until I heard the culprit say:

"What would you have, sir? It was my destiny. I could not prevent
myself from doing what I did."

"Every fault merits chastisement," I would reply; "but choose between
the deputy-governor and me--by which do you wish to be chastised?"

The reply was always the same.

"Kill me, if you will, master; but do not give me up to my own
countrymen."

I awarded the punishment, and it was inflicted by my guards. When this
was over, I presented the Indian with a cigar, as a token of pardon,
I uttered a few kind words to him to induce him not to commit any fresh
faults, and he went away without hearing any malice to his judge. I
had, perhaps, been severe, but I had been just; that was enough. The
order and discipline I had established were a great support for me
in the minds of the Indians; they gave me a positive influence over
them. My calmness, my firmness, and my justice--those three great
qualities without which no government is possible--easily satisfied
these natures, still untrained and unsophisticated. But one thing,
however, disquieted them. Was I brave? This is what they were ignorant
of, and frequently asked of one another. They spurned the idea of being
commanded by a man who might not be intrepid in the face of danger. I
had indeed made several expeditions against banditti, but they had
produced no result, and would not serve as proofs of my bravery
in the eyes of the Indians. I very well knew that they would form
their definite opinion upon me from my conduct in the first perilous
extremity we should encounter together. I was therefore determined
to undertake anything, that I might show myself at least equal to
the best and bravest of all my Indians: everything was comprised in
that. I felt the imperious necessity of showing myself not only equal
but superior in the struggle, by preserving my self-possession.

An opportunity at length offered.

The Indians look upon buffalo hunting as the most dangerous of all
their wild sports, and my guards often said they would rather stand
naked at twenty paces from the muzzle of a carbine than at the same
distance from a wild buffalo. The difference they said is this, that
the ball of a carbine may only wound, but the horn of a buffalo is
sure to kill. I took advantage of the terror they had of this animal,
and one day declared, with the utmost possible coolness, my intention
to hunt one. They then made use of all their eloquence to turn me from
my project; they gave me a very picturesque, but a very discouraging
description of the dangers and difficulties I should have to encounter,
especially as I was not accustomed to that sort of warfare,--and such
a combat is, in fact, a struggle for life or death. But I would listen
to nothing. I had spoken the word: I would not discuss the point,
and I looked upon all their counsels as null and void. My decision
was right; for these kind counsels, these frightful pictures of the
dangers I was about to incur, had no other object than to entrap
me; they had concerted amongst themselves to judge of my courage by
my acceptance or refusal of the combat. My only answer was to give
orders for the hunt. I took great care that my wife should not be
informed of our excursion, and I set off, accompanied by half a score
Indians, nearly all of whom were armed with muskets. Buffalo hunting
is different in the mountains from what it is in the plains. On the
plain one only requires a good horse, with address and agility in
throwing the lasso; but in the mountains it requires something more:
and, above all, the most extraordinary coolness and self-possession
are essentially necessary.

This is the way in which it is done: the hunter takes a gun on which
he can depend, and places himself in such a position that the buffalo
must see him on issuing from the wood. The moment the animal sees
him, he rushes on him with the utmost velocity, breaking, rending,
and trampling under foot every obstacle to the fury of his charge;
he rushes on as if about to crush the enemy, then stops within some
paces for a few seconds, and presents his sharp and threatening
horns. This is the moment that the hunter should fire, and lodge his
ball in the forehead of the foe. If unfortunately his gun misses fire,
or if his coolness fails him, if his hand trembles, or his aim is bad,
he is lost--Providence alone can save him! This was, perhaps, the
fate that awaited me; but I was resolved to tempt this cruel proof,
and I went forward with intrepidity--perhaps to death. We at length
arrived on the skirts of an extensive wood, in which we felt assured
there were buffaloes, and here we halted. I was sure of my gun,
and I conceived I was equally so of my self-possession; I therefore
determined that the hunt should be conducted as if I had been a simple
Indian. I placed myself at the spot where it was fully expected that
the animal would come out, and I forbade anyone to remain near me. I
ordered everyone to his proper place, and I then stood alone on the
open ground, about two hundred paces from the borders of the forest,
to await an enemy that would show me no mercy if I missed him. It is,
I confess, a solemn moment, when one stands between life and death by
the more or less certainty of a gun, or the greater or less steadiness
of the arm that holds it. I was, however, perfectly tranquil. When
all were at their posts two hunters entered the forest, having
first thrown off some of their clothing, the more readily to climb
up trees in case of danger: they had no other arms than a cutlass,
and were accompanied by the dogs. A dead silence continued for
upwards of half-an-hour; everyone listening for the slightest noise,
but nothing was heard. The buffalo continues a long time frequently
without betraying his lair; but at the end of the half-hour we heard
the repeated barking of the dogs, and the shouts of the hunters:
the animal was aroused from his cover. He defended himself for some
time against the dogs, till at length, becoming furious, he sprang
forward with a bound towards the skirts of the forest. In a few minutes
after, I heard the crashing of the branches and the young trees that
the buffalo rent asunder in the terrible velocity of his course. His
advance could only be compared to the galloping of several horses--to
the rushing noise of some frightful monster--or, I might almost say,
of some furious and diabolical being. Down he came like an avalanche;
and at this moment, I confess, I experienced such lively emotions that
my heart beat with extraordinary rapidity. Was it not death--aye,
and frightful death--that was perhaps approaching me? Suddenly the
buffalo made his appearance. He stopped for an instant; gazed, as if
frightened, around him; sniffed up the air of the plain which extended
in the distance; then, with distended nostrils, head bent, and horns
projected, he rushed towards me, terrible and furious. The moment was
come. If I had longed for an opportunity of showing off my courage
and sang-froid to the Indians, these two precious qualities were now
put to a severe test. There I was, face to face with the peril I had
courted; the dilemma was one of the most decided and unavoidable that
could possibly be: conqueror or conquered, there must be a victim--the
buffalo or me, and we were both equally disposed to defend ourselves.

It would be difficult for me to state exactly what was passing in my
mind, during the brief period which the buffalo took in clearing the
distance that lay between us. My heart, so vividly agitated while the
ferocious animal was rushing through the forest, now beat no longer. My
eyes were fixed upon him, my gaze was rivetted on his forehead in such
a manner that I could see nothing else. My mind was concentrated on
one object alone, in which I was so absorbed, that I could actually
hear nothing, though the dogs were still barking at a short distance,
as they followed their prey. At length, the buffalo lowered his head,
presented his sharp-pointed horns, stopped for a moment, then, with
a sudden plunge, he rushed upon me, and I fired. My ball pierced his
skull, and I was half saved. The animal fell within a pace of me, like
a mass of rock, so loud, and so heavy. I planted my foot between his
two horns, and was preparing to fire my second barrel, when a long and
hollow bellowing indicated that my victory was complete--the monster
had breathed his last sigh. My Indians then came up. Their joy was
succeeded by admiration; they were in ecstasy; I was everything they
could wish for. All their doubts had vanished with the smoke of my
rifle, when, with steady aim, I had shot the buffalo. I was brave;
I had won their confidence; I had stood the test. My victim was cut
up in pieces, and borne in triumph to the village. As the victor,
I took his horns; they were six feet long. I have since deposited
them in the museum of Nantes. The Indians, those imaginative beings,
called me thenceforward, "Malamit Oulou," Tagal words, which signify
"cool head."

I must confess, without vanity, that the proof to which my Indians had
subjected me was sufficiently serious to give them a decided opinion
of my courage, and to satisfy them that a Frenchman was as brave as
themselves. The habit I subsequently acquired of hunting convinced
me that but little danger is really incurred when the weapon is a
good one, and the self-possession does not fail. Once every month I
indulged in this exercise, which imparts such lively sensations; and
I recognised the facility with which one may lodge a ball in a plain
surface, a few inches in diameter, and at a few paces distance. But
it is no less true that our first huntings were very dangerous. Once
only I permitted a Spaniard named Ocampo to accompany us. I had taken
the precaution to station two Indians at his side; but when I quitted
them to take up my own post, he imprudently sent them away, and soon
after, the buffalo started from the wood, and rushed upon him. He
fired both his barrels, and missed the animal; we heard the reports
and ran towards him, but it was too late! Ocampo was no longer in
existence. The buffalo had gored him through and through, and his body
was ploughed up with frightful wounds. But no such accident ever took
place again; for when strangers came to witness our buffalo hunts,
I made them get up in a tree, or on the crest of a mountain, where
they might remain as spectators of the combat, without taking any
part in it, or being exposed to any danger.

And now that I have described buffalo hunting in the mountains,
I must return to my colonising labours.






CHAPTER V.

    Description of my House at Jala-Jala--Storms, Gales, and
    Earthquakes--Reforming the Banditti--Card-playing--Tagal
    Cock-fighting--Skirmishes with Robbers--Courage of my Wife--Our
    Domestic Happiness--Visits from Europeans--Their Astonishment at
    our Civilisation--Visit to a Sick Friend at Manilla--Tour through
    the Provinces of the Ilocos and Pangasinan Indians--My Reception
    by the Tinguians--Their Appearance and Habits--Manners and
    Customs--Indian Fête at Laganguilan y Madalag--Horrible Ceremonies
    to Celebrate a Victory--Songs and Dances--Our Night-watch--We
    Explore our Cabin--Discovery of a Secret Well--Tomb of the
    Tinguian Indians.


As I have previously said, my house possessed every comfort that
could possibly be desired. It was built of hewn stone, so that in
case of an attack it could serve as a small fortress. The front
overlooked the lake, which bathed with its clear and limpid waters
the verdant shore within a hundred steps from my dwelling; the back
part looked upon woods and hills, where the vegetation was rich and
plentiful. From our windows we could gaze upon those grand majestic
scenes which a beautiful tropical sky so frequently affords. At
times, on a dark night, the summits of the hills suddenly shone
with a weak faint light, which increased by degrees; then the bright
moon gradually appeared, and illuminated the tops of the mountains,
as large beacon-fires would have done; then again, calm, peaceful,
and serene, she reflected her soft poetic light over the bosom of
the lake, as tranquil and unruffled as herself. It was indeed an
imposing sight. Towards evening, Nature at times showed herself
in all her commanding splendour, infusing a secret terror into the
very soul. Everything bore evidence of the sacred influence of the
Divine Creator. At a short distance from our house we could perceive
a mountain, the base of which was in the lake and the summit in the
clouds. This mountain served as a lightning conductor to Jala-Jala:
it attracted the thunder. Frequently heavy black clouds, charged with
electricity, gathered over this elevated point, looking like other
mountains trying to overturn it; then a storm began, the thunder roared
tremendously, the rain fell in torrents; every minute frightful claps
were heard, and the total darkness was scarcely broken by the lightning
that flashed in long streams of fire, dashing from the top and sides
of the mountain enormous blocks of rock, that were hurled into the
lake with a fearful crash. It was an admirable exemplification of the
power of the Almighty! Soon the calm was restored, the rain ceased,
the clouds disappeared, the fragrant air bore on its yet damp wings
the perfume of the flowers and aromatic plants, and Nature resumed
her ordinary stillness. Hereafter I shall have occasion to speak
of other events that happened at certain periods, and were still
more alarming, for they lasted twelve hours. These were gales of
wind, called in the Chinese seas Tay-Foung. At several periods of
the year, particularly at the moment of the change of the monsoon,
[3] we beheld still more terrifying phenomena than our storms--I
allude to the earthquakes. These fearful convulsions of nature
present a very different aspect in the country from what they do in
cities. If in towns the earth begins to quake, everywhere we hear a
terrible noise; the edifices give way, and are ready to fall down;
the inhabitants rush out of their houses, run along the streets, which
they encumber, and try to escape. The screams of frightened children
and women bathed in tears are blended with those of the distracted
men; all are on their knees, with clasped hands, their looks raised to
Heaven, imploring its mercy with sobbing voices. Everything totters,
is agitated; all dread death, and terror becomes general. In the
country it is totally different, and a hundred times more imposing and
terrific. For instance, in Jala-Jala, at the approach of one of these
phenomena, a profound, even mournful stillness pervades nature. The
wind no longer blows; not a breeze nor even a gentle zephyr is
perceptible. The sun, though cloudless, darkens, and spreads around
a sepulchral light. The atmosphere is burdened with heavy and sultry
vapours. The earth is in labour. The frightened animals quietly seek
shelter from the catastrophe they foresee. The ground shakes; soon it
trembles under their feet. The trees move, the mountains quake upon
their foundations, and their summits appear ready to tumble down. The
waters of the lake quit their bed, and inundate the country. Still
louder roaring than that produced by the thunder is heard: the earth
quivers; everywhere its motion is simultaneously felt. But after this
the convulsion ceases, everything revives. The mountains are again firm
upon their foundations, and become motionless; the waters of the lake
return by degrees to their proper reservoir; the heavens are purified
and resume their brilliant light, and the soft breeze fans the air;
the wild buffaloes again scour the plain, and other animals quit the
dens in which they had concealed themselves; the earth has resumed
her stillness, and nature recovered her accustomed imposing calm.

I have not sought to enter upon those minute descriptions, too tedious
generally for the reader; I only wished to give an idea of the various
panoramas that were unfolded to our eyes whilst at Jala-Jala.

I now return to the details of my ordinary life.

As I had killed a wild buffalo when hunting, I had given sufficient
proofs of my skill, and my Indians were devoted to me, because they
had confidence in me. Nothing more now pre-occupied me, and I spent
my time in superintending some necessary alterations. Shortly the
woods and forests adjoining my domain were cut down, and replaced by
extensive fields of indigo and rice. I stocked the hills with horned
cattle, and a fine troop of horses with delicate limbs and haughty
mien; I also succeeded in dispersing the banditti from Jala-Jala. I
must say a great many of them abandoned their wandering sinful lives;
I received them on my land, and made good husbandmen of them. How
was it that I had collected such a number of recruits? In a strange
manner, I will admit, and worthy of relating, as it will show how
an Indian allows himself to be influenced and guided, when he has
confidence in a man whom he looks upon as his superior. I frequently
walked in the forests alone, with my gun under my arm. Suddenly a
bandit would spring out, as if by enchantment, from behind a tree,
armed from top to toe, and advance towards me.

"Master," said he to me, putting one knee to the ground, "I will be
an honest man; take me under your protection!"

I asked him his name; if he had been marked out by the high court of
justice, I would answer him severely:

"Withdraw, and never present yourself again before me; I cannot
forgive you, and if I meet you again, I must do my duty."

If he was unknown to me, I would kindly say to him:

"Follow me."

I would take him home, and then tell him to lay down his arms; and
after having preached to him, and exhorted him to persist in his
resolution, I would point out to him the spot in the village where
he might build his cabin, and, in order to encourage him, I would
advance him some money to support himself until he became transformed
from a bandit into an agriculturist. I congratulated myself each
day on having left an open door to repentance, since by my cares I
restored to an honest and laborious life, people who had gone astray
and been perverted. I endeavoured also to persuade the Indians to
abandon their vicious wild customs, without being too severe towards
them; to obtain much from them I knew it was necessary to give way a
little. The Indians are passionately fond of cards and cock-fighting,
as I have said before; therefore, in order not to debar them entirely
from these pleasures, I allowed them to play at cards three times a
year--the day of the village festival, upon my wife's birthday, and
upon my own. Woe to the one who was caught playing out of the times
prescribed above; he was severely punished. As to the cock-fights,
I allowed them on Sundays and holidays, after Divine service. For
this purpose I had public arenas built. In these arenas, in presence
of two judges, whose decrees were without appeal, the spectators
laid heavy wagers. There is nothing more curious than to witness a
cock-fight. The two proud animals, purposely chosen and trained for
the day of the contest, come upon the battle-field armed with long,
sharp, steel spurs. They bear themselves erect; their deportment
is bold and warlike; they raise their heads, and beat their sides
with their wings, the feathers of which spread in the form of
the proud peacock's fan. They pace the arena haughtily, raising
their armed legs cautiously, and darting angry looks at each other,
like two old warriors in armour ready to fight before the eyes of an
assembled court. Their impatience is violent, their courage impetuous;
shortly the two adversaries fall upon and attack each other with equal
fury; the sharp weapons they wear inflict dreadful wounds, but these
intrepid combatants appear not to feel the cruel effects. Blood flows;
the champions only appear the more animated. The one that is getting
weak raises his courage at the idea of victory; if he draw back, it is
only to recruit his strength, to rush with more ardour than ever upon
the enemy he wishes to subdue. At length when their fate is decided,
when one of the heroes, covered with blood and wounds, falls a victim,
or runs away, he is declared vanquished, and the battle is ended.

The Indians assist with a sort of ferocious joy at this
amusement. Their attention is so captivated by it that they do not
utter a word, but follow with particular care the most minute details
of the conflict. Almost all of them train up a cock, and treat him
for several years with comical tenderness, when one reflects that
this animal, taken as much care of as a child, is destined by its
master to perish the first day it fights. I also found that it was
necessary to provide some amusement compatible with the tastes,
manners, and habits of my former bandits, who had led for so long
a space of time such a wandering vagabond life. For this purpose I
allowed hunting on all parts of my estate, conditionally, however,
that I should take beforehand, as tithe, a quarter of any stag or wild
boar they should kill. I do not think that ever a sportsman--one of
those men reclaimed from the paths of vice to those of virtue--failed
in this engagement, or endeavoured to steal any game. I have often
received seven or eight haunches of venison in a day, and those who
brought them were delighted to be able to offer them to me.

The church I had laid the foundation of was progressing rapidly;
the population of the township was daily increasing: and everything
succeeded according to my wishes. I had still occasional difficulties
with the hardened robbers who surrounded me; but I pursued them
without intermission, for it was to my interest to remove them from the
neighbourhood of my residence. Frequently they annoyed me by the alarms
that they gave us. These resolute, determined men arrived in gangs to
besiege our house. My guards surrounded me, and we occasionally fought
skirmishes, which always terminated in our favour. Providence has
unfathomable secrets. I was never struck by a ball from a bandit. I
bear the scars of seventeen wounds; but these wounds were made with
naked blades. It could be said of me, as in I know not which Scotch
ballad: "Did not the Devil's soldiers pass through the balls, instead
of the balls passing through them." Yet I have often been fired at;
sometimes the barrel of a gun has been pointed at my chest, and that
at a few paces from me. My clothes have been torn by the bullet,
but my body has always escaped harm.

One morning I was cautioned to put myself on my guard, because some
banditti had met together at a few leagues from my house, and intended
attacking it. Hearing this, I armed my people, and set out to meet
the band that was coming to assail me, so as to anticipate their
attack. At the place that had been indicated to me I found nobody,
and passed the day in exploring the neighbourhood, in hopes of meeting
the bandits, but my search was useless. Suddenly the thought struck me
that a secret enemy had imposed upon me, and that, at the moment I was
going to face imaginary danger, perhaps my house I had left would be
suddenly attacked. I trembled--I shivered all over. I gallopped off,
and reached home in the middle of the night. My fears were but too
well-founded. I had fallen into a snare. I found my servants armed,
watching, with my wife at their head. "What are you doing here?" I
exclaimed, going up to her. "I am keeping watch," she replied, with
great presence of mind; "I was told that the advice given to you
was false; that you would not find the robbers where you expected,
and that, during your absence, they would come here." This act of
heroism proved to me what courage and energy God had given to a woman
apparently so delicate. The banditti did not attack us: was there
not some guardian angel watching over my dwelling?

We were more than a year at Jala-Jala without seeing a European. One
would have thought that we had withdrawn ourselves entirely from the
civilised world, and that we were going to live for ever with the
Indians. Our mountains had so bad a reputation, that nobody dared
expose themselves to the thousand dangers they feared to encounter in
the locality. We were therefore alone, yet still very happy. It was,
perhaps, the most pleasant time I spent in my life. I was living with a
beloved and loving wife; the good work I had undertaken was performed
under my eyes; the comfort and happiness, the natural results of
such good work, spread themselves among my vassals, who daily became
more and more devoted to me. How could I have regretted quitting
the pleasures and entertainments of a town, where those diversions
and pleasures are bought by lies, hypocrisy, and deceit--those three
vices of civilised society? However, the terror spread around by the
banditti was not great enough to keep away the Europeans entirely;
and one morning some people, [4] mad enough to dare to visit a mad
man--such was the name given to me at Manilla, when I left to go and
live in the country--came to see me, armed to their very teeth. The
surprise of these venturesome visitors is impossible to be described,
when they found us at Jala-Jala, calm, and in perfect safety. Their
astonishment increased when they went entirely through our colony; and
on their return to town they gave such an account of our retreat, and
of the entertainments they found there, that shortly after we received
more visits, and I had not only to give hospitality to friends, but
likewise to strangers. If, now and then, our affairs compelled us to
go to Manilla, we very soon came back to our mountains and forests,
for there only Anna and myself were happy. Very great reasons alone
could induce us to leave our pleasant abode; however, a slight event
occurred that obliged us to quit it for a short time. I was informed
that one of my friends, who had acted as witness to my marriage,
was seriously ill. [5] What the greatest pleasure, the most heartfelt
joy, the most splendid banquet, could not obtain from me, friendship
exacted. At this sad intelligence I determined at once upon going to
Manilla, to give my advice to the sick man, whose family had solicited
my aid; and as my absence might be prolonged, I packed up my things,
and we left, our hearts sadder than ever at having to quit Jala-Jala
on so melancholy an errand. Upon my arrival there, I was told that
my friend had been taken from Manilla to Boulacan, a province to the
north of that town, where it was hoped the country air would hasten
his recovery. I left Anna at her sister's, and went off to join Don
Simon, whom I found convalescent; my presence was almost useless,
and the journey I had made resulted in shaking affectionately my
former comrade by the hand, whom I would not leave until convinced
that he was entirely recovered.

In order to utilise my time, I decided upon making a tour to the north
into the provinces of Ilocos and Pangasinan. I had my reasons for so
doing: I wished, if possible, to make an excursion to the Tinguians
and Igorrots, wild populations, who were much talked of, but little
known. I wished to study them myself. I took the precaution not to
confide this idea to anybody, for then, indeed, people would not
have known what name to give my folly. I made my preparations, and
set out with my faithful lieutenant, Alila, who never left me, and
who was justly styled Mabouti-Tao. We were mounted upon good horses,
that carried us along like gazelles to Vigan, the chief town of the
province of South Ilocos, where we left the animals. From there we
took a guide, who conducted us on foot to the east, close to a small
river called Abra (opening). This river is the only issue by which
we could penetrate to the Tinguians. It winds around high mountains
of basalt; its sides are steep; its bed is encumbered with immense
blocks of rock, fallen from the sides of the mountains, which render
it impossible to walk along its banks. To reach the Tinguians, it
is necessary to have recourse to a slight skiff, that can easily
pass through the current and the most shallow parts. My guide and
my lieutenant soon contrived to make a small raft of bamboos; when
it was finished we embarked, Alila and myself, our guide refusing
to accompany us. After much trouble and fatigue, casting ourselves
often into the water to draw our raft along, we at length got clear
of the first range of mountains, and perceived, in a small plain,
the first Tinguian village. When we reached there we got out, and
went towards the huts we had distinguished in the distance. I allow
it was acting rather foolishly to go and thus expose ourselves,
in the midst of a colony of ferocious and cruel men whose language
we did not know; but I relied upon my usual good fortune. I will add
that I had taken divers objects with me to give as presents, trusting
to meet some inhabitant speaking the Tagaloc language. I walked on,
then, without troubling myself about what would become of us. In a
few minutes we reached the nearest cabins, and the inhabitants gave
us at first an unwelcome reception. Frightened at seeing us approach,
they advanced towards us, armed with hatchets and spears; we waited
for them without recoiling in the least. I spoke to them by signs,
and showed them some necklaces of glass beads, to make them understand
we were friendly disposed. They deliberated among themselves, and when
they had held their consultation, they beckoned us to follow them. We
obeyed. They led us to their chief, who was an old man. My generosity
was greater towards him than it had been to his subjects. He appeared
so delighted with my presents, that he immediately put us at our ease,
by making us understand that we had nothing to fear, and that he took
us under his special protection.

This pleasing reception encouraged us.

I then set about examining with attention the men, women, and children
who surrounded us, and who seemed as much astonished as ourselves. My
amazement was very great when I beheld tall men, slightly bronzed,
with straight hair, regular features, aquiline noses, and really
handsome, elegant women. Was I really among savages? I should rather
have thought I was among the inhabitants of the south of France,
had it not been for the costume and language. The only clothing the
men wore was a sash, and a sort of a turban, made out of the bark of
the fig tree. They were armed, as they always are, with a long spear,
a small hatchet, and a shield. The women also wore a sash, and a small
narrow apron that came down to their knees. Their heads were ornamented
with pearls, coral beads, and pieces of gold, twisted among their hair;
the upper parts of their hands were painted blue; their wrists adorned
with interwoven bracelets, spangled with glass beads--these bracelets
reached the elbow, and formed a kind of half-plaited sleeve. On this
subject I learnt a remarkable fact. These interwoven bracelets squeeze
the arm very much; they are put on when the women are quite young,
and they prevent the development of the flesh to the advantage of the
wrist and hand, which swell and become dreadfully big; this is a mark
of beauty with the Tinguians, as a small foot is with the Chinese,
and a small waist with the European ladies. I was quite astonished
to find myself in the midst of this population, where there was no
reason whatsoever to be alarmed. One thing only annoyed me; it was
the odour that these people spread around them, which could be smelt
even at a distance. However, the men and women are cleanly, for they
are in the habit of bathing twice daily. I attributed the disagreeable
smell to their sash and turban, which they never leave off, but allow
to fall into rags. I remarked that the reception given me by the
chief gained us the good-will of all the inhabitants, and I accepted,
without hesitation, the hospitality proffered us. This was the only
means of studying well the manners and customs of my new hosts.

The territory occupied by the Tinguians is situated about 17 degrees
north latitude, and 27 degrees west longitude; it is divided into
seventeen villages. Each family possesses two habitations, one for
the day and the other for the night. The abode for the day is a
small cabin, made of bamboos and straw, in the same style as most
Indian huts; the one for the night is smaller, and perched upon great
posts, or on the top of a tree, about sixty or eighty feet above the
ground. This height surprised me, but I understood this precaution
when I knew that thus, under shelter at night, the Tinguians are saved
from the nocturnal attacks of the Guinanès, their mortal enemies,
and defend themselves with the stones which they throw from the tops
of the trees. [6] In the middle of each village there is a large shed,
in which are held the assemblies, festivities, and public ceremonies. I
had been already two days in the village of Palan (this was the name
of the place where I stopped at), when the chiefs received a message
from the small town of Laganguilan y Madalag, that lies far off to the
east. By this message the chiefs were informed that the inhabitants of
this district had fought a battle, and that they had been victorious.

The inhabitants of Palan hearing this news screamed with joy; it
was quite a tumult when they heard that a fête would be given in
commemoration of the success at Laganguilan y Madalag. All wished
to be present--men, women, children; all desired to go to it. But
the chiefs chose a certain number of warriors, some women, and a
great many young girls: they made their preparations and set out. It
was too favourable an opportunity for me not to avail myself of it,
and I earnestly begged my hosts to allow me to accompany them. They
consented, and the same night we set out on our journey, being in all
thirty in number. The men wore their arms, which are composed of a
hatchet, that they call aligua, a sharp-pointed spear of bamboo, and a
shield; the women were muffled up in their finest ornaments. I remarked
that these garments were cotton materials, of showy colours. We walked
one behind another, according to the custom of the savages. We went
through many villages, the inhabitants of which were also going to
the fête; we crossed over mountains, forests, torrents, and at last,
at break of day, we reached Laganguilan y Madalag. This small town was
the scene of much rejoicing. On all sides the sound of the gong and
tom-tom were heard. The first of these instruments is of a Chinese
shape; the second is in the form of a sharp cone, covered over at
the bottom with a deer's skin.

Towards eleven o'clock, the chiefs of the town, followed by all the
population, directed their steps towards the large shed. There everyone
took his place on the ground, each party, headed by its chiefs,
occupying a place marked out for it beforehand. In the middle of a
circle formed by the chiefs of the warriors were large vessels, full
of basi, a beverage made with the fermented juice of the sugar-cane;
and four hideous heads of Guinans entirely disfigured--these were
the trophies of the victory. When all the assistants had taken their
places, a champion of Laganguilan y Madalag took one of the heads
and presented it to the chiefs of the town, who showed it to all the
assistants, making a long speech comprehending many praises for the
conquerors. This discourse being over, the warrior took up the head,
divided it with strokes of his hatchet, and took out the brains. During
this operation, so unpleasant to witness, another champion got a second
head, and handed it to the chiefs, the same speech was delivered,
then he broke the skull to pieces in like manner, and took out the
brains. The same was done with the four bleeding skulls of the subdued
enemies. When the brains were taken out, the young girls pounded them
with their hands into the vases containing the liquor of the fermented
sugar-cane; they stirred the mixture round, and then the vases were
taken to the chiefs, who dipped in their small osier goblets, through
the fissures of which the liquid part ran out, and the solid part that
remained at the bottom they drank with ecstatic sensuality. I felt
quite sick at this scene, so entirely new to me. After the chieftains'
turn came the turn of the champions. The vases were presented to them,
and each one sipped with delight this frightful drink, to the noise
of wild songs. There was really something infernal in this sacrifice
to victory.

We sat in a circle and these vases were carried round. I well
understood that we were about undergoing a disgusting test. Alas! I
had not long to wait for it. The warriors planted themselves before
me, and presented me with the basi and the frightful cup. All eyes
were fixed upon me. The invitation was so direct, to refuse it would
perhaps be exposing myself to death! It is impossible to describe
the interior conflict that passed within me. I would rather have
preferred the carbine of a bandit five paces from my chest; or await,
as I had already done, the impetuous attack of the wild buffalo. What a
perplexity! I shall never forget that awful moment. It struck me with
terror and disgust; however, I contained myself, nothing betraying my
emotion. I imitated the savages, and, dipping the osier goblet into the
drink, I approached it to my lips, and passed it to the unfortunate
Alila, who could not avoid this infernal beverage. The sacrifice was
complete; the libations were over, but not the songs. The basi is a
very spirituous and inebriating liquor, and the assistants, who had
partaken rather too freely of this horrible drink, sang louder to the
noise of the tom-tom and the gong, while the champions divided the
human skulls into small pieces destined to be sent as presents to all
their friends. The distribution was made during the sitting, after
which, the chiefs declared the ceremony over. They then danced. The
savages divided themselves into two lines, and howling, as if they
were furious madmen or terribly provoked, they jumped about, laying
their right hand upon the shoulder of their partners, and changing
places with them. These dances continued all day; at last night came
on, each inhabitant retired with his family and some few guests to
his aerial abode, and soon afterwards tranquillity was restored.

We cannot help feeling astonished, when we are in Europe--in a
good bed, under a warm eider-down coverlet, the head luxuriously
reclining upon good pillows--when we reflect on the singular homes
of the savages in the woods. How often have I represented to myself
these families--roosting eighty feet above ground, upon the tops of
trees. However, I know that they sleep as quietly in those retreats,
open to every wind, as I in my well-closed and quiet room. Are they
not like the birds who repose at their sides upon the branches? Have
they not Nature for a mother, that admirable guardian of all she has
made, and do they not also close their eyelids under the tutelary
looks of the Supreme Father of the universe?

My faithful Alila retired with me into one of the low-storied
cabins to pass the night, as we had been in the habit of doing
while staying with the Tinguians. For our better security we were
accustomed to watch one another alternately; we never both slept at
the same time. Without being timid, ought we not to be prudent? This
night it was my turn to go to sleep the first. I went to bed, but the
impressions of the day had been too strong: I felt no inclination to
sleep. I therefore offered to relieve my lieutenant of his watch; the
poor fellow was like myself--the heads of the Guinans kept dancing
before his eyes. He beheld them pale, bloody, hideous; then torn,
pounded, broken to pieces; then the shocking beverage of the brains,
that he also so courageously swallowed, came back to his mind,
and he suffered sufficiently to make him repent our visit. "Master,"
said he to me, looking very much grieved, "why did we come among these
devils? Ah! it would have been much better had we remained in our good
country of Jala-Jala." He was not perhaps in the wrong, but my desire
to see extraordinary things gave me a courage and a will he did not
partake of. I answered him thus: "Man must know all, and see all it is
possible to see. As we cannot sleep, and that we are masters here, let
us make a night visit; perhaps we shall find things that are unknown
to us. Light the fire and follow me, Alila." The poor lieutenant
obeyed without answering a word. He rubbed two pieces of bamboo one
against the other, and I heard him muttering between his teeth:

"What cursed idea has the master now? What shall we see in
this miserable cabin--with the exception of the Tic-balan, [7]
or Assuan? [8] We shall find nothing else." During the Indian's
reflections the fire burnt up. I lit, without saying a word, a cotton
wick, plastered over with elemi gum, that I always carried with me in
my travels, and I began exploring. I went all through the inside of
the habitation without finding anything, not even the Tic-balan, or
Assuan, as my lieutenant imagined. I was beginning to think my search
fruitless, when the idea struck me to go down to the ground-floor of
the cabin, for all the cabins are raised about eight or ten feet above
ground, and the under part of the floor, closed with bamboos, is used
as a store: I descended. Anyone who could have seen me--a white man,
a European, the child of another hemisphere--wander by night, with a
taper in my hand, about the hut of a Tinguian Indian, would have been
really surprised at my audacity, and I may almost say, my obstinacy,
in seeking out danger while pursuing the wonderful and unknown. But
I went on, without reflecting on the strangeness of my conduct: as
the Indians say: "I was following my destiny." When I had reached the
ground, I perceived in the middle of a square, inclosed with bamboos,
a sort of trap, and I stopped quite pleased. Alila looked at me with
astonishment. I lifted up the trap, and saw a rather deep well;
I looked into it with my light, but could not discover the bottom
of it. Upon the sides only, at a depth of about six or seven yards,
I thought I distinguished some openings that I took for entrances
into sub terraneous galleries. What had I now discovered? Was I,
like Gil Blas, about to penetrate into the midst of an assemblage of
banditti, living in the internal parts of the earth; or should I find,
as in the tales of the "Arabian Nights," some beautiful young girls,
prisoners of some wicked magician? Indeed, my curiosity increased
in proportion to my discoveries. "There is something strange here,"
said I to my lieutenant; "light a second match, I will go down to the
bottom of the well." Hearing this order, my faithful Alila shrunk back
in dismay, and ventured to say to me, in a frightfully dismal tone:

"Why, master, you are not content to see what is upon the earth,
you must also see what is inside of it!"

This simple observation made me smile. He continued: "You wish to
leave me alone here; and if the souls of the Guinans whose brains I
have just drank come to fetch me, what will become of me? You will
not be here to defend me!"

My lieutenant would not have been frightened at twenty banditti, he
would have struggled against every one of them until death; but his
legs trembled, his voice faltered, he was terrified at the idea of
remaining alone in this cabin, exposed to the view of the spirit of
a Guinan, which would come and ask him to restore his brains! Whilst
he addressed me these complaints, I had leant my back against one
side of the well, my knees were applied against the other, and down
I went. I had already descended about four yards, when I felt some
rubbish falling upon me. I raised my head, and saw Alila coming down
too. The poor fellow would not remain alone. "Well done," said I to
him, "you are becoming curious too; you will be rewarded, believe
me, for we shall see fine sights." And I continued my under-ground
research. After proceeding six or seven yards I reached the opening
I had remarked from above, and stopped. I placed my light before me,
and espied a corner, where sat the dried black corpse of a Tinguian in
the same state as a mummy. I said nothing; I waited for my lieutenant,
anxious as I was to enjoy his surprise. When he was aside of me: "Look,
look," I exclaimed; "what is that?" He was stupified. "Master," said he
at last, "I entreat of you to leave this place; let us get out of this
cursed hole! Take me to fight against the Tinguians of the village--I
am quite willing to do that--but do not remain among the dead! What
should we do with our arms, if they suddenly appeared to ask us why
we are here?" "Be quiet," I answered him; "we shall go no farther." I
felt satisfied that this well was a tomb, and that lower down I should
see some more Tinguians in a state of preservation. I respected the
abode of the dead, and came up, to Alila'a great satisfaction. We
put everything in its place, and returned to the upper story of the
cabin. I soon fell asleep, but my lieutenant could not: the thoughts
of the mummy and horrible beverage kept him awake.






CHAPTER VI.

    Visit to Manabo--Conversation with my Guide--Religion of the
    Tinguians--Their Marriage Ceremony--Funereal Rites--Mode
    of Warfare--I take leave of the Tinguians--Journey to the
    Igorrots--Description of them--Their Dwellings--A Fortunate
    Escape--Alila and the Bandits--Recollections of Home--A Majestic
    Fig-tree--Superstition of Alila--Interview with an Igorrot--The
    Human Hand--Nocturnal Adventure--Consternation of Alila--Probable
    Origin of the Tinguians and Igorrots.


The following morning, before dawn, our hosts began to descend
from their high regions, and we left our temporary abode, to
make preparations for our departure. I had resided long enough at
Laganguilan y Madalag; I was desirous of visiting Manabo, a large
village, situated at a short distance from Laganguilan. I availed
myself of the presence of the inhabitants of Manabo, who had come
to assist at the Brain Feast--this was the appellation I had given
to this savage fête--and I set out with them. Among the troop there
was one who had spent some time among the Tagalocs; he spoke their
language a little, and I knew it tolerably well. I profited by this
fortunate occurrence, and during the whole of the way I conversed with
this savage, and questioned him upon the habits, customs, and manners
of his fellow-countrymen. One point particularly pre-occupied me. I
was unacquainted with the religion of these people, so very curious to
study. Until then I had seen no temple; nothing that bore resemblance
to an idol; I knew not what God they worshipped. My guide, chatty for
an Indian, gave me quickly every information necessary. He told me
that the Tinguians have no veneration for the stars; they neither
adore the sun, nor moon, nor the constellations; they believe in
the existence of a soul, and pretend that after death it quits the
body, and remains in the family. As to the god that they adore, it
varies and changes form according to chance and circumstances. And
here is the reason: When a Tinguian chief has found in the country
a rock, or a trunk of a tree, of a strange shape--I mean to say,
representing tolerably well either a dog, cow, or buffalo--he informs
the inhabitants of the village of his discovery, and the rock, or
trunk of a tree, is immediately considered as a divinity--that is to
say, as something superior to man. Then all the Indians repair to the
appointed spot, carrying with them provisions and live hogs. When
they have reached their destination they raise a straw roof above
the new idol, to cover it, and make a sacrifice by roasting hogs;
then, at the sound of instruments, they eat, drink, and dance until
they have no provisions left. When all is eaten and drank, they set
fire to the thatched roof, and the idol is forgotten until the chief,
having discovered another one, commands a new ceremony.

With regard to the morals of the Tinguians, my guide informed me that
the Tinguian has generally one legitimate wife, and many mistresses;
but the legitimate wife alone inhabits the conjugal house, and the
mistresses have each of them a separate cabin. The marriage is a
contract between the two families of the married couple. The day
of the ceremony, the man and wife bring their dowry in goods and
chattels; the marriage portion is composed of china vases, glass,
coral beads, and sometimes a little gold powder. It is of no profit to
the married couple, for they distribute it to their relations. This
custom, my guide observed to me, has been established to prevent a
divorce, which could only take place in entirely restituting all
the objects that were contributed at the marriage by the party
asking for divorce--a rather skilful expedient for savages, and
worthy of being the invention of civilised people. The relatives
thus become much interested in preventing the separation, as they
would be obliged to restitute the presents received; and, if one of
the couple persisted in requesting it, they would prevent him or her
by making away with one of the objects furnished, such as a coral
necklace, or a china vase. Without this wise measure, it is to be
supposed that a husband, with mistresses, would very often endeavour
to obtain a divorce. My fellow-traveller enlightened me upon all the
points that I wished to investigate. The government, said he to me,
after resting himself for a few minutes, is very patriarchal. It is
the oldest man who commands.--As at Lacedæmonia, thought I, for there
old age was honoured.--The laws are perpetuated by tradition, as the
Tinguians have no idea of writing. In some instances they apply the
punishment of death. When the fatal sentence has been pronounced,
the Tinguian who has merited it must escape, if he wishes to avoid
it, and go and live in the forests; for, the old men having spoken,
all the inhabitants are bound to perform their orders. Society is
divided into two classes, as with the Tagalocs, the chiefs and the
commonalty. Whoever possesses and can exhibit to the public a certain
number of china vases is considered a chief. These jars constitute
all the wealth of the Tinguians. We were still conversing about the
natives of the country when we reached Manabo. My guide had scarcely
ceased talking all the way from Laganguilan.

My attention was now attracted by some flames that were issuing from
under a cabin, where a large fire was burning. Around it many people
were sitting, howling like wolves.

"Ah! ah!" said my guide, seemingly very pleased; "here is a funeral. I
did not tell you anything about these ceremonies; but you will judge
for yourself of what they are. It will be time enough to-morrow. You
must be tired. I will take you to my day-cabin, and you may repose
yourself without any danger of the Guinans, for a funeral compels a
great many people to be on the watch all night."

I accepted the offer made to me, and we took possession of the Tinguian
cabin. It was my turn to take the first watch, and my poor Alila,
a little more at his ease, fell into a sound sleep. I followed his
example, after my watch, and we did not wake up until it was broad
daylight.

We had scarcely finished our morning repast, composed of
kidney-potatoes, palms, and dried venison, when my guide of the
preceding day came to conduct me to the spot where the funeral of
the deceased was about to take place. I followed him, and placing
ourselves a few steps from the cortége, we assisted at a strange
sight. The deceased sat in the middle of his cabin upon a stool;
underneath him, and at his side, fires were burning in enormous
chafing-dishes; at a short distance about thirty assistants were
seated in a circle. Ten or twelve women formed another circle; they
were seated nearer to the corpse, close by which the widow was also
placed, and who was distinguished by a white veil, that covered her
from head to foot. The women brought some cotton, with which they
wiped off the moisture that the fire caused to exude from the corpse,
which was roasting by degrees. From time to time one of the Tinguians
spoke, and pronounced, in a slow, harmonious tone of voice, a speech,
which he concluded by a sort of laugh, that was imitated by all the
assistants; after which they stood up, ate some pieces of dried meat,
and drank some basi; they then repeated the last words of the orator,
and danced.

I endured--such is the word--this sight for an hour; but I did not
feel courage enough to remain in the cabin any longer. The odour that
exhaled from the corpse was unbearable. I went out, and breathed the
fresh air; my guide followed me, and I begged him to tell me what
had occurred from the beginning of the illness of the deceased.

"Willingly," he answered me.

Delighted to breathe freely, I listened with interest to the following
recital:

"When Dalayapo," said the narrator, "fell sick, they took him to the
grand square, to apply severe remedies to him; that is to say, all the
men of the village came in arms, and, to the sound of the gong and
the tom-tom, they danced around the sick man from the rising to the
setting of the sun. But this grand remedy had no effect--his illness
was incurable. At the setting of the sun they placed our friend in
his house, and no more heed was paid to him: his death was certain,
as he would not dance with his fellow-countrymen."

I smiled at the remedy and the reasoning, but I did not interrupt
the narrator.

"For two days Dalayapo was in a state of suffering; then, at the end
of these two days, he breathed no more; and, when that was perceived,
they immediately put him on the bench where we saw him just now. Then
the provisions that he possessed were gathered together to feed the
assistants, who paid him all due honours. Each one made a speech
in his praise: his nearest relations began the first, and his body
was surrounded with fire to dry it up. When the provisions are
consumed, the strangers will leave the cabin, and only the widow and
a few relations will wait until the body is thoroughly dried. In a
fortnight's time he will be placed in a large hole that is dug under
his house. He will be put in a niche, or aperture, in the wall, where
already his deceased relatives' remains are deposited, and then all
is over."

This hole, thought I, must be similar to the one I went into the
other night at Laganguilan.

The explanation that I had just received completely satisfied me, and
I did not request to be present again at the ceremony. I resolved,
since I was very comfortably seated, under the shade of a balété,
upon availing myself of the obliging disposition of my guide, to ask
him to inform me, suddenly changing the conversation all the while,
how his tribe managed to wage war on the Guinans, their mortal enemies.

"The Guinans," said he to me, without drawing in any way on my
patience, "wear the same arms as we do. They are neither stronger,
nor more skilful, nor more vigorous. We have two modes of fighting
them. Sometimes we give them a grand battle at mid-day, and then we
meet them face to face, under a burning sun; at other times, during
some dark night, we creep in silence to their dwelling-places, and
if we be able to surprise any of them we cut off their heads, which
we take away with us, and then we get up a feast, such as you have
already witnessed."

That word "feast" recalled to my mind the sanguinary orgie, or
carousing, I had been present at, and particularly the share I
had taken in it, so that I felt I was blushing and growing pale by
turns. The Indian took no heed of it, and went on thus:

"In the grand battles all the men belonging to a village are compelled
to take up arms, and to march against the foe. It is generally in
the midst of a wood that the two armies meet. As soon as they come in
sight of each other they set up crying and howling on both sides. Each
man then rushes upon his enemy, and upon this shock depends the
fate of the victory; for one of the armies is always panic-struck,
and scampers away; then it is that the other pursues it, and kills
as many as possible, taking care to preserve the heads, which they
bring home with them." [9]

"Why it is a hide-and-seek fight, the consequences of which are,
however, very cruel," I said. My Indian was of the same opinion,
and rejoined:

"In general the conquerors are ever those who are cleverest in
concealing themselves, in order to surprise their enemies, and who
then dash on them bawling and howling."

Here my guide stopped short, the fight having no longer any interest
for him; and then, perceiving I questioned him no longer, he left me
to myself, when I returned to my habitation and Alila, who was sick
enough of Manabo. For my own part I had seen enough of the Tinguians,
and besides I thought I had observed that they seemed not too well
pleased with the long stay I had made among them. I passed over in my
mind the brain feast, so I resolved upon leaving. I therefore went to
take leave of the elders. Unfortunately I had nothing to offer them,
but I promised them many presents, when I should get back among the
Christians--and then I left them.

The satisfaction of my faithful lieutenant was at its height when
we started for home. Not being disposed to go back by the same way
I had come, I determined upon keeping more to the east, crossing
over the mountains, and upon taking the sun as my guide. This road
seemed preferable to me, inasmuch as I was about to traverse a country
inhabited by a few Igorrots, that other species of the savage tribe I
was not acquainted with. The mountains we crossed over were crowned
with magnificent forests. Now and then we perceived lovely fertile
valleys below our feet, and the grass was so high and thick-set, that
it was with great difficulty we could pass through it. During our
journey, my lieutenant kept a sharp look-out, wishing to kill some
game for our support. As for myself, I was indeed far from thinking
of the pleasure of shooting, so great was my contemplation of the
admirable panoramic views that we met with every moment; and I was
too much enraptured with the virgin and fruitful soil that spread
itself so incommensurately around us to think even of eating. But my
faithful Alila was less an enthusiast than I was myself: however,
in return, he was more prudent. At the close of the day on which
we started he killed a stag; so we halted on the brink of a stream,
cut off some palm-tree strips, in guise of rice and bread, and set
about eating the roasted liver of the animal. Our repast was truly
a copious one. Ah! how often since that time, when seated before a
richly served table--having before me delicious and recherché viands,
and that in dining-rooms where the atmosphere was balmy and perfumed by
the aroma arising from the highly flavoured dishes--how often, I say,
have I regretted the supper I partook of with Alila in the forest,
after a day's ramble on the mountains! Nay, what mortal could forget
such hours--such places?

Our repast over, we made our bed of some branches we lopped off
from the trees, and which we joined together on the very moist soil
in the interior of the vast forest, and there we slept soundly till
the morrow, without fear, and particularly without having any sombre
or disagreeable dreams. At the dawn of day we were on foot again,
all Nature seeming to wake up with ourselves. Oh! how fine and calm
did she appear to us! The vapours that arose from her breast covered
her all over with a veil, like a young virgin at her waking; and then
this veil by degrees would break up into pieces, which pieces, gently
balanced on the morning breeze, would disappear, and be lost on the
tops of the trees or the summits of the rocks. On we walked for a long
time, till at last, towards the middle of the day, we came to a small
plain inhabited by the Igorrots. We found, in all, three cabins, or
huts, so that the population was far from being large. At the door
of one of these cabins I saw a man, of about sixty years of age,
and a few women. As we had arrived from behind the huts we took the
savages by surprise, so that they had no time to fly at our approach:
we were in the midst of them.

I assumed the line of conduct I had pursued on arriving at Palan,
but as I had no more coral beads or coloured glass, I presented them
with a part of our stag, making them understand at the same time that
we came with the most friendly intentions. From that moment there
was established between us a very curious sort of mimic conversation,
during which I was able to examine at my ease the new race of beings I
saw around me. I perceived that the costume of the Igorrots was pretty
nearly the same as that of the Tinguians, the ornaments excepted,
but their features and physiognomy were quite different. The men were
smaller, their breasts being exceedingly broad, their heads immensely
big, their limbs developed, their strength herculean; their shape was
not so handsome as that of the savages I had just left; their colour
of a dark bronze, very dark indeed; their noses are less aquiline,
their eyes yellow and fully open--a la Chinoise. The women's shape
was also very protuberant, their complexion dark, their hair long,
and combed up--a la Chinoise. Unfortunately it was impossible for
me, with all my mimicry, to obtain the information I wished for, so
I was obliged to content myself with visiting the cabin, which was
a real hut, having but the ground-floor. The surrounding parts were
closed in by very thick piles, covered with a roof in the form of a
bee-hive. There was but one issue, through which it was impossible to
have either egress or ingress, except in crawling on all-fours. In
spite of this difficulty I would see the interior of this Indian
dwelling; so, having made a sign to my lieutenant to keep watch, I
penetrated into the hut. The Igorrots seemed quite surprised at my
so doing, but they made no opposition to it. I found myself within
an obnoxious hole, or hovel, through a small opening in the summit
of which the daylight peeped in and the smoke crept out. The floor
was thickly covered with dust, and it was upon such a soft couch that
the whole family laid down to rest. In one of the corners I perceived
some bamboo lances, a few cocoa-nuts divided into two parts, so as to
serve as cups, a heap of good-sized round pebbles, that were used in
case of attack, and a few pieces of wood, of very common workmanship,
that served as pillows.

I soon got out of such a den, from which I was driven by the nauseous
smell it contained in its every part, but I had been able to see
everything in it. I then inquired, by signs, of the Igorrot, the way
I should go, in order to join the Christians. He fully understood
me, showed me the road with his finger, and we then proceeded on
our journey. As I journeyed on, I remarked here and there fields
of patates and sugar-cane, which of course must have been the only
husbandry of those miserable savages. After about an hour's journey
we were near running into a very great danger. On entering into a
vast plain we saw an Igorrot, flying away as quickly as possible. He
had remarked us, and I attributed his flight to fear, when suddenly I
heard the sound of the tom-tom and gong, and saw, at the same time,
twenty men armed with lances, rapidly advancing towards us. I felt
that a fight was about to ensue, so I told my lieutenant to fire at
the group, so as to injure none of them.

Alila fired: his bullet passed over the heads of the savages, who were
so astonished at the detonation that they suddenly halted, and examined
us attentively. I prudently took advantage of their surprise, and an
immense forest presenting itself on our right, we entered it, leaving
the village on our left, but the savages did not follow us into it.

During the whole of this scene my lieutenant did not utter a word. I
had already remarked that when in presence of danger he became dumb,
but when he had lost sight of the Igorrots his speech and loquacity
returned to him.

"Master," said he to me, in a very dissatisfied tone, "how I do regret
not having fired directly into the middle of those miscreants!"

"And why so?" asked I.

"Because I am certain I should have killed one of them at least."

"Well?"

"Well, master, our journey would not have terminated without our
sending at least one soul of a savage to the devil."

"Ah! Alila," said I; "so you have become wicked and naughty, have you?"

"No, no, no, master," replied he; "but I cannot conceive why you
are so kind and compassionate to that infernal race. You, who pursue
and persecute the Tulisans, [10] who are a hundred times better than
these wretches are, and who are Christians besides."

"What!" cried I; "brigands, robbers, and assassins better than poor
primitive beings, who have no one to guide and conduct them to the
path of virtue!"

"Oh, master!" replied my lieutenant, and most sententiously this time;
"Oh! the brigands, as it pleases you to call them, are in nowise
what you think them. The Tulisan is not an assassin. When he takes
away life it is only when he is compelled, in defence of his own,
and if he do kill, why it is always de bon coeur."

"Oh! oh!" said I; "and the robberies--how do you explain them?"

"If he rob, why it is only to get possession of a little of the
superfluity of the rich, and that he divides among the poor--that's
all. Now, master, do you know what use the Tulisan makes of his
plunder?"

"No, indeed, master Alila," answered I, smilingly.

"Well, he keeps nothing of it for himself," said my lieutenant, with
great pride; "in the first place he gives a part of it to the priest,
to have masses said for him."

"Indeed! it is mighty edifying--go on."

"And then he gives another part of it to his mistress, or bonne amie,
because he loves her, and likes to see her finely dressed out; and as
for the remainder, why, faith! he spends it among his friends. You
may therefore see, master, that the Tulisan possesses himself of
the superfluity of one person to satisfy several other persons with
it. [11] Oh! but he is far, very far indeed, from being so wicked as
those savages, who kill you without saying a word to you, and then eat
up your brains--fie!" And here Alila heaved a deep sigh, for the brain
feast was ever present to his mind. His conversation so interested me,
his system was so curious, and he himself so frank in drawing it out,
that I almost forgot the Igorrots in listening to him.

We pursued our road through the wood, keeping as much as possible
to the south, in order to get near the province of Batangas, where
I was to meet my poor patient, who no doubt was very uneasy about
my long absence. When I started I said not a word about my project,
and had I done so it is most likely I should have been thought as no
longer belonging to this world. The recollection of my wife, whom I
had left at Manilla, and who was far from supposing me to be among
the Igorrots, inspired me with the most anxious desire of returning
home to my family as quick as possible. Absorbed in my thoughts,
and carried away by my reflections, I walked silently along, without
even casting a glance upon the luxuriant vegetation all around us. I
must indeed have been very much pre-occupied, for a virgin forest
between the tropics, and particularly in the Philippine islands, is in
nowise to be compared with our European forests. I was aroused from
my pensiveness, and recalled to the remembrance of my whereabouts,
by the noise of a torrent, and I gratefully admired nature in her
gigantic productions. I looked up, and before me I perceived an
immense balété, an extraordinary fig-tree, that thrives in the sombre
and mysterious forests of the Philippines, and I stopped to admire
it. This immense tree springs from a seed similar to the seed of the
ordinary fig-tree; its wood is white and spongy, and in a few years it
grows to an extraordinary size. Nature, who has had foresight in all
things, and who allows the young lamb to leave its wool on the bushes
for the timid bird to pick it up and build its nest with--Nature,
I say, has shown herself in all her genius in the fig-tree of the
Philippine islands, which grows so rapidly and so immensely. The
branches of this tree generally spring from the base of the trunk;
they extend themselves horizontally, and, after forming an elbow or
curve, rise up perpendicularly; but, as I said before, the tree is
spongy, and easily broken, and the branch, while forming the curve,
would inevitably be broken, did not a ligament, which the Indians
call a drop of water--goutte d'eau--fall from the tree and take root
in the earth; there it swells, and grows in proportion with the size
of the branch, and acts to it as a living prop. Besides which, around
the trunk, and at a considerable distance from the ground, are natural
supports, which rise up in points or spirals to about the middle of the
trunk. Has not the Grand Architect of the world foreseen everything?

The appearance presented by the balété is very frequently indescribably
picturesque; and this is so true that, within a space of some hundred
paces in diameter--which these gigantic fig-trees usually occupy--one
may see by turns grottoes, halls, chambers, that are often furnished
with natural seats, formed out of and by the roots themselves. No! no
vegetation is more diversified, nor more extraordinary! This tree
sometimes grows out of a rock, where there is not an inch of earth;
its long roots run along the rock, encompass it, and then plunge into
the neighbouring brook. It is indeed a masterpiece of nature--a chef
d'oeuvre--which, however, is very ordinary in the virgin forests of
the Philippine islands.

"Here," said I to my lieutenant, "is a good spot for us to spend the
night on."

He recoiled some paces.

"What!" said he; "do you wish to stop here, master?"

"Certainly," replied I.

"Oh! but you don't see that we are in still more danger here than in
the midst of the Igorrots!"

"And why, then, are we in danger?" asked I.

"Why? why? Do you not know that the Tic-balan dwells in the large
balétés. If we stop here you may be very sure that I shan't sleep a
moment, and that we shall be tormented the whole night."

I smiled, which my lieutenant perceiving:

"Oh! master," said he, most dolefully, "what should we do with an
evil spirit that fears neither bullet nor dagger?"

The terror of the poor Tagal was really too great for me to resist
him, so I yielded, and we took up our quarters for the night at a
place much less to my own taste, but much more to Alila's. The night
passed away like many others--I mean, perfectly well, and we woke up
to resume our journey through the forest.

We had been walking about two hours, when, on leaving the wood,
and entering on a plain, we met an Igorrot, mounted upon a buffalo,
face to face. The encounter was somewhat curious. I levelled my gun at
the savage: my lieutenant took hold of the animal by the long leather
strap, and I made a sign to the Igorrot not to stir: then--always
in my mimic language--I asked if he were alone. I understood from
him that he was accompanied by no fellow-traveller, and that he was
going northwards, in the opposite direction to our own. But Alila,
who decidedly had a grudge against the savages, was most anxious to
lodge a ball in this fellow's head. However, I strenuously opposed
such a project, and ordered him to let go the bridle.

"But, master," said he, "allow me at least to see what these jars
contain."

Around the neck of the Igorrot's buffalo were strung three or four
jars, covered with leaves of the banana tree.

My lieutenant, without even waiting for my answer, applied his nose
to them, and discovered, to his infinite satisfaction, that they
contained a deer or stag ragout, which sent forth a certain perfume;
so, still without consulting me, he undid the smallest of the jars,
struck the buffalo a blow with the but-end of his gun, and, letting
go the animal at the same time, exclaimed:

"Go, you rascal--go!"

The Igorrot, finding himself free, fled as quick as the beast could
carry him, and we re-entered the woods, taking care to avoid the
openings, for fear of being surprised by too large a number of savages.

Towards four o'clock we halted to take our repast. This wished-for
moment was impatiently expected by my lieutenant, as the savage's jar
sent forth a very savoury smell. At last the desired moment arrived:
we sat down on the grass. I stuck my poignard into the jar, which
Alila had brought up to the fire, and I withdrew--an entire human
hand! [12] My poor lieutenant was as stupified as I was myself, so
we remained a few minutes without saying a word. At last I gave a
vigorous kick to the jar, and smashed it in pieces, so that the human
flesh it contained was scattered over the ground, while still I held
the fatal hand on the point of my dagger.

That hand horrified me; yet I examined it most carefully, and it
appeared to me to have been the hand of a child of an Ajetas, a species
of savages that inhabit the mountains of Nueva-Exica and Maribèles,
of which race I shall have an opportunity of speaking during the
course of this work. I took some strips of palm-tree, roasted in the
burning embers; Alila did the same, and we set out, not in the best
of humours, in search of another resting-place for the night.

Two hours after sun-rise we issued from the forest and entered upon
the plain. From time to time--that is, from distance to distance--we
met with rice-fields, cultivated after the Tagal manner, and then
did my lieutenant exclaim most joyously to me:

"Master, we are now in Christian ground."

He was right; the road was becoming more easy. We followed on a narrow
pathway, and towards evening arrived in front of an Indian cabin,
at the door of which a young girl was sitting, while abundant tears
trickled down her sorrowful countenance. I drew near her, and inquired
into the cause of her grief. On hearing my question she rose up, and
without replying to my queries, conducted us into the interior of the
habitation, where we beheld the inanimate body of an old woman, whom
we learned was the mother of the young girl; the brother of the latter
had gone to the village in quest of the relations of the deceased,
to aid them in transporting the corpse to its final destination.

This scene affected me very much. I did my best to console the
poor young girl, and solicited hospitality for the night, which was
instantly granted. To be in company with a dead body nowise affrighted
me; but I bethought of Alila, so superstitious and so fearful with
regard to ghosts and evil spirits.

"Well," said I to him; "are you not afraid to spend the night near
a corpse?"

"No, master," replied he, courageously; "this dead person is a
Christian soul, which, far from wishing us evil, will watch over us."

I was really astonished at the answer of the Tagaloc, at his calmness
and security: the rogue had his own motives for thus speaking to
me. The Indian huts in the plains, are never composed of more than
one room; the one we were in was scarcely large enough to hold us
all four; however, we one and all managed as well as we could. The
deceased occupied the back part; a small lamp, placed by her head,
threw out a feeble light, and beside her lay the young Indian girl. I
had established my quarters at a short distance from the bed of death,
and my lieutenant was nearest the door, left open purposely to dispel
the heat and foul air.

Towards two o'clock in the morning I was waked up by a shrill voice,
and I felt at the same time that some one was passing over me, and
uttering cries that soon were heard outside the cabin. I immediately
stretched out my hand towards the place where Alila had lain down,
but that place was empty; the lamp was out, and the darkness complete.

This made me very uneasy. I called to the young girl, who answered
me that she had heard, like me, cries and noise, but she was ignorant
of the cause. I snatched up my gun and sallied forth, calling out to
my lieutenant; but to no purpose. No one answered; the stillness of
death reigned all around. I then set out, walking over the fields at
hazard, calling out now and then Alila's name. I had not, perhaps,
gone a hundred paces when I heard the following words, pronounced
most timidly, proceeding from a tree by which I was passing:

"I am here, master."

It was Alila himself. I drew nigh, and saw my lieutenant ensconced
behind the trunk of the tree, and trembling like one of its leaves.

"What then has happened to you?" I inquired; "and what are you
doing there?"

"Oh! master," said he to me; "pray forgive me! Bad thoughts got the
better of me; it was the young Indian girl inspired me with them,
and the demon blew them into my inner man. I--I--I--drew nigh, during
the night, to the young girl's resting-place, and when I saw you fast
asleep--I put out the lamp."

"Well, and then--" said I, most impatiently and angrily.

"And then--I wished to take a kiss from the young girl; but, at the
very moment I drew nigh, the old dead woman took her daughter's place,
so I only met with a cold and icy face, and at the same moment two
long arms stretched out to seize upon me. Oh! it was then I gave such
a cry--and I fled! fled! fled! but the old woman pursued me--yes,
the corpse tracked me behind; and she has only just now disappeared,
on hearing the sound of your voice. I then hid behind this tree,
where you now see me, in a piteous plight."

The fright of the Tagal and his mistake made me almost laugh out;
but I severely reprimanded him for the bad intention he had of
abusing the hospitality that had been so graciously afforded us:
he repented, and begged of me to excuse him. He was, I should think,
sufficiently punished by his fright. I wished to take him back to the
cabin with me; but for no consideration would he return. I therefore
left my gun in his charge, and went back to the house of mourning,
where I found the poor young girl just as frightened as he was. I
soon made her acquainted with the adventure; so thanking her for
her kind hospitality, and morning coming on, I returned to Alila,
who was most impatiently expecting me.

The hope of seeing soon again our relations, our homes, our friends,
gave us new courage, and before sunset we arrived at an Indian village,
without anything remarkable having taken place: this was to be our
last stage. [13]

After this long and interesting journey I arrived at Quingua,
a village in the province of Boulacan, where I had left my friend
in convalescence.






CHAPTER VII.

    I return to Jala-Jala--An Excursion on the Lake--Relempago's
    Narrative--Re-organisation of my Government--A Letter from
    my Brother Henry--His Arrival--He joins me in the Management
    of my Plantations--Cajoui, the Bandit: Anten-Anten--Indian
    Superstition--A Combat with the Bandit--His Death--A Piratical
    Descent--My Lieutenant is Wounded--I extract the Ball, and
    cure him.


My prolonged absence from home caused great uneasiness. Very
fortunately my wife remained at Manilla, and was totally ignorant of
the journey I had recently undertaken.

My patient had not exa

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