The Lady's Own Cookery Book, and New Dinner-Table Directory;

by Lady Charlotte Campbell Bury · English · Gutenberg #29232 · 940,288 chars · public domain (US)

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Title: The Lady's Own Cookery Book, and New Dinner-Table Directory;

Author: Lady Charlotte Campbell Bury

Release date: June 25, 2009 [eBook #29232]

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/29232

Credits: Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
produced from scanned images of public domain material
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADY'S OWN COOKERY BOOK, AND NEW DINNER-TABLE DIRECTORY; ***

Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
produced from scanned images of public domain material
from the Google Print project.)

Transcriber's Note

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections
is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and
hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled
and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.

Oe ligatures have been expanded.

THE
LADY'S
OWN COOKERY BOOK,

AND NEW

DINNER-TABLE DIRECTORY;

IN WHICH WILL BE FOUND
A LARGE COLLECTION OF
ORIGINAL RECEIPTS,

INCLUDING NOT ONLY

THE RESULT OF THE AUTHORESS'S MANY YEARS OBSERVATION,
EXPERIENCE, AND RESEARCH,

BUT ALSO THE
CONTRIBUTIONS
OF AN EXTENSIVE CIRCLE OF ACQUAINTANCE:

ADAPTED TO THE USE OF
PERSONS LIVING IN THE HIGHEST STYLE,

AS WELL AS THOSE OF
MODERATE FORTUNE.

Third Edition.

LONDON:
PUBLISHED FOR HENRY COLBURN.
1844.

PREFACE.

The Receipts composing the Volume here submitted to the Public have been
collected under peculiarly favourable circumstances by a Lady of
distinction, whose productions in the lighter department of literature
entitle her to a place among the most successful writers of the present
day. Moving in the first circles of rank and fashion, her associations
have qualified her to furnish directions adapted to the manners and
taste of the most refined Luxury; whilst long and attentive observation,
and the communications of an extensive acquaintance, have enabled her
equally to accommodate them to the use of persons of less ample means
and of simpler and more economical habits.

When the task of arranging the mass of materials thus accumulated
devolved upon the Editor, it became his study to give to them such a
form as should be most convenient for constant reference. A glance at
the "Contents," which might with equal propriety be denominated an
Index, will, he flatters himself, convince the reader that this object
has been accomplished. It will there be seen that the Receipts, upwards
of SIXTEEN HUNDRED in number, are classed under Eleven distinct Heads,
each of which is arranged in alphabetical order--a method which confers
on this Volume a decided advantage over every other work of the kind,
inasmuch as it affords all the facilities of a Dictionary, without being
liable to the unpleasant intermixture of heterogeneous matters which
cannot be avoided in that form of arrangement.

The intimate connexion between the Science of Cookery and the Science of
Health, the sympathies subsisting between every part of the system and
the stomach, and the absolute necessity of strict attention not less to
the manner of preparing the alimentary substances offered to that organ
than to their quality and quantity, have been of late years so
repeatedly and so forcibly urged by professional pens, that there needs
no argument here to prove the utility of a safe Guide and Director in so
important a department of domestic economy as that which is the subject
of this Volume. In many more cases, indeed, than the uninitiated would
imagine, is the healthy tone of the stomach dependent on the proper
preparation of the food, the healthy tone of the body in general on that
of the stomach, and the healthy tone of the mind on that of the body:
consequently the first of these conditions ought to command the
vigilance and solicitude of all who are desirous of securing the true
enjoyment of life--the _mens sana in corpore sano_.

The professed Cook may perhaps be disposed to form a mean estimate of
these pages, because few, or no learned, or technical, terms are
employed in them; but this circumstance, so far from operating to the
disparagement of the work, must prove a strong recommendation to the
Public in general. The chief aim, in fact, of the noble Authoress has
been to furnish such plain directions, in every branch of the culinary
art, as shall be really useful to English masters and English servants,
and to the humble but earnest practitioner. Let those who may desire to
put this collection of receipts to the test only give them a fair trial,
neither trusting to conceited servants, who, despising all other
methods, obstinately adhere to their own, and then lay the blame of
failure upon the directions; nor committing their execution to careless
ones, who neglect the means prescribed for success, either in regard to
time, quantities, or cleanliness; and the result will not fail to afford
satisfactory evidence of their pleasant qualities and practical
utility.

CONTENTS.

PAGE
GENERAL DIRECTIONS 3

CATALOGUE OF THINGS IN SEASON--Fish--Game and
Poultry--Fruit--Roots and Vegetables 5
GENERAL RULES FOR A GOOD DINNER 13
Dinner for Fourteen or Sixteen 14
---- ---- Twelve or Fourteen 19
---- ---- Ten or Twelve 23
---- ---- Eight 26
---- ---- Six 29
---- ---- Four 32

SOUPS.

Almond 33
Asparagus ib.
Calf's-head 34
Carrot ib.
Clear ib.
---- herb 35
Cod's-head ib.
Crawfish ib.
----, or lobster ib.
Curry, or Mulligatawny 36
Eel ib.
Fish ib.
French ib.
Friar's chicken 37
Giblet ib.
Gravy 38
Hare ib.
Hessian 39
Mock-turtle ib.
Mulligatawny 41
Onion 42
Ox-head 43
Green pea ib.
Winter pea 44
Pea 45
Portable 46
Potato ib.
Rabbit ib.
Root ib.
Scotch leek 47
Soup, to brown or colour ib.
Soups and brown sauces, seasoning for ib.
Soups ib.
---- without meat 48
---- for the poor 49
---- and bouilli ib.
Soupe à-la-reine ib.
---- maigre 50
---- Santé 51
Spanish ib.
Turnip 52
Veal ib.
Vegetable ib.
Vermicelli 53
West India, or pepper-pot ib.
White 54

BROTHS.

Broth for the poor 57
---- ---- ---- sick ib.
Barley 58
Chervil ib.
Hodge-podge ib.
Leek porridge ib.
Madame de Maillet's ib.
Mutton 59
Pork ib.
Pottage ib.
Scotch pottage ib.
Scotch 60
Turnip ib.
Veal ib.

FISH.

Carp and tench 63
----, to stew ib.
Cod, to stew 64
----, ragout of ib.
----, head, to boil ib.
Crab, to dress 64
---- or lobster, to butter ib.
---- ---- ----, to stew 65
Crawfish, to make red ib.
Eels, to broil whole ib.
----, to collar 65
----, to fry 66
----, to pot ib.
----, to pickle ib.
----, to roast ib.
----, to spitchcock ib.
----, to stew 67
Fish, to recover when tainted ib.
----, in general, to dress 68
----, to dress in sauce ib.
----, hashed in paste ib.
----, to cavietch ib.
Gudgeon ib.
Haddock, to bake ib.
---- pudding 69
Herring ib.
Lampreys to pot ib.
Lobsters, to butter 70
----, to fricassee ib.
----, to hash ib.
----, to pot 71
----, to stew ib.
---- curry powder ib.
---- patés ib.
---- salad 72
Mackarel à la maitre d'hotel ib.
----, to boil ib.
----, to broil ib.
----, to collar ib.
----, to fry ib.
----, to pickle ib.
----, to pot ib.
----, to souse 73
---- pie ib.
Mullet, to boil ib.
----, to broil ib.
----, to fry ib.
Oysters, to stew ib.
----, ragout 74
----, to pickle ib.
---- patés ib.
Oyster loaves 75
---- pie ib.
Perch, to fricassee 76
Pike, to dress ib.
----, stuffed, to boil ib.
----, to boil à-la-Française ib.
----, to broil ib.
----, in Court Bouillon 77
----, fricandeau ib.
----, German way of dressing ib.
----, to pot ib.
----, to roast 78
----, au souvenir ib.
----, à la Tatare ib.
Salmon, to dress ib.
----, en caisses ib.
----, à la poële 79
Scallops ib.
Shrimps, to pot ib.
Smelts, to fry ib.
----, to pickle ib.
----, to pot 80
Soles, to boil ib.
----, to boil à-la-Française ib.
----, to stew ib.
Water Souchi ib.
Sprats, to bake 81
Sturgeon, to roast ib.
Turbot, to dress ib.
----, plain boiled 82
----, to boil ib.
----, to boil in gravy ib.
----, to boil in Court Bouillon with capers ib.
----, to fry 83
---- or barbel, glazed ib.
----, en gras ib.
----, or barbel, en maigre ib.
Turtle, to dress 84
Whiting, to dry ib.

MADE DISHES.

Asparagus forced in French rolls 85
Eggs, to dress ib.
----, buttered ib.
----, Scotch 86
----, for second course ib.
----, to fry as round as balls ib.
----, fricassee of ib.
----, à la crême ib.
Ham, essence of 87
Maccaroni in a mould of pie-crust ib.
---- ib.
Omelets 89
----, asparagus 90
----, French ib.
Ragout for made dishes ib.
Trouhindella ib.

MEATS AND VEGETABLES.

Artichokes, to fricassee 91
Bacon, to cure ib.
Barbicue ib.
Beef, alamode 92
---- ---- in the French manner ib.
----, rump, with onions 93
----, rump, to bake ib.
----, rump, cardinal fashion ib.
----, sausage fashion 94
----, ribs and sirloin ib.
----, ribs, en papillotes ib.
----, brisket, stewed German fashion 95
----, to bake ib.
----, bouilli ib.
----, relishing 96
----, to stew ib.
----, cold, to dress 97
----, cold boiled, to dress ib.
----, cold, to pot ib.
---- steaks, to broil ib.
---- ---- and oysters 98
---- (rump steaks) broiled, with onion gravy ib.
---- steaks, to stew 98
---- olives 99
----, pickle for ib.
----, to salt ib.
----, to dry 100
----, hung ib.
----, for scraping 101
----, Italian ib.
----, red ib.
----, collar of 102
Bisquet, to make ib.
Boar's-head, to dress whole 103
Brawn, to keep ib.
Hog's-head, like brawn ib.
Mock-brawn ib.
Cabbage, farced 104
Calf's-head ib.
----, like turtle ib.
----, to hash 105
----, fricassee 106
----, to pickle ib.
---- liver 107
Cauliflowers with white sauce ib.
Celery, to stew ib.
---- à-la-crême ib.
Collops, Scotch ib.
----, brown Scotch 108
----, white ib.
----, to mince 109
---- of cold beef ib.
Cucumbers, to stew ib.
Curry-powder ib.
----, Indian 110
Farcie 112
Forcemeat ib.
Fricandeau 113
Ham, to cure ib.
----, Westphalia, to cure 117
----, English, to make like Westphalia 119
----, green 120
----, to prepare for dressing without soaking ib.
----, to dress ib.
----, to roast 121
----, entrée of ib.
----, toasts ib.
---- and chicken, to pot ib.
Herb sandwiches 122
Hog's puddings, black ib.
---- ----, white ib.
Kabob, an Indian ragout 123
Lamb, leg, to boil 124
---- ----, with forcemeat ib.
----, shoulder of, grilled ib.
----, to ragout ib.
----, to fricassee ib.
Meat, miscellaneous directions respecting 125
----, general rules for roasting and boiling ib.
----, half roasted or under done ib.
Mustard to make 126
Mutton, chine, to roast ib.
---- chops, to stew ib.
---- cutlets ib.
---- ----, with onion sauce ib.
---- hams, to make 127
----, haricot 127
----, leg ib.
----, leg, in the French fashion ib.
----, or beef, leg, to hash 128
----, loin, to stew ib.
----, neck, to roast ib.
----, neck, to boil ib.
----, neck, to fry 129
----, saddle, and kidneys ib.
----, shoulder, to roast in blood ib.
----, shoulder or leg, with oysters ib.
----, roasted, with stewed cucumbers ib.
----, to eat like venison 130
----, in epigram ib.
Mushrooms to stew brown ib.
Newmarket John ib.
Ox-cheek to stew ib.
Ox-tail ragout 131
Peas to stew ib.
----, green, to keep till Christmas 132
Pickle, red, for any meat ib.
Pie, beef-steak ib.
----, calf's-head ib.
----, mutton or grass-lamb ib.
----, veal 133
----, veal and ham ib.
----, veal olive ib.
----, beef olive ib.
Pig, to barbicue ib.
----, to collar ib.
----, to collar in colours 134
----, to pickle or souse ib.
----, to roast ib.
----, to dress lamb-fashion ib.
Pigs'-feet and ears, fricassee of 135
---- ---- ---- ----, ragout of ib.
Pig's-head, to roll ib.
Pilaw, an Indian dish ib.
Pork, to collar 136
----, to pickle ib.
----, chine, to stuff or roast ib.
---- cutlets 137
----, gammon, to roast ib.
----, leg, to broil ib.
----, spring, to roast ib.
Potatoes, to boil ib.
----, to bake 138
Potato balls ib.
Potatoes, croquets of ib.
----, to fry ib.
----, to mash 139
----, French way of cooking ib.
----, à-la-maitre d'hotel ib.
Rice to boil ib.
Rissoles ib.
Rice 140
Robinson, to make a 141
Salad, to dress ib.
Sausages, Bologna ib.
----, English ib.
----, Oxford 142
----, for Scotch collops ib.
----, veal ib.
----, without skins 143
Spinach, the best mode of dressing ib.
----, to stew ib.
Sweetbreads, ragout of 144
Savoury toasts, to relish wine 144
Tomato, to eat with roast meat 145
Tongues, to cure ib.
----, to smoke 146
----, to bake ib.
----, to boil ib.
----, to pot ib.
---- and udder to roast 147
----, sheep's, or any other, with oysters ib.
Tripe, to dress ib.
----, to fricassee ib.
Truffles and morels, to stew ib.
Veal, to boil 148
----, to collar ib.
----, to roast ib.
----, roasted, ragout of ib.
----, to stew 149
----, with rice, to stew ib.
----, served in paper ib.
----, bombarded ib.
---- balls 150
----, breast ib.
----, breast, with cabbage and bacon ib.
----, breast, en fricandeau ib.
----, breast, glazed brown ib.
----, breast, stewed with peas 151
----, breast, ragout ib.
---- collops, with oysters 151
---- collops, with white sauce 152
---- cutlets, to dress ib.
---- cutlets, larded ib.
----, fillet, to farce or roast ib.
----, fillet, to boil 153
----, half a fillet, to stew ib.
----, knuckle, white ib.
----, knuckle, ragout ib.
----, leg, and bacon, to boil 154
----, loin, to roast ib.
----, loin, to roast with herbs ib.
----, loin, fricassee of ib.
----, loin, bechamel 155
----, neck, stewed with celery ib.
---- olives ib.
---- rumps 156
----, shoulder, to stew ib.
---- steaks ib.
---- sweetbreads, to fry ib.
---- sweetbreads, to roast 157
Vegetables, to stew ib.
Venison, haunch, to roast ib.
----, to boil ib.
----, haunch, to broil 158
----, to recover when tainted ib.
----, red deer, to pot ib.
----, excellent substitute for ib.
Water-cresses, to stew 159

POULTRY.

Chicken, to make white 161
----, to fricassee ib.
----, white fricassee of 162
----, or fowl, cream of 163
----, to fry ib.
----, to heat ib.
----, dressed with peas ib.
---- and ham, ragout of ib.
----, or ham and veal patés 164
Duck, to boil ib.
----, to boil à-la-Française ib.
----, à-la-braise ib.
----, to hash 165
----, to stew with cucumbers ib.
----, to stew with peas ib.
Fowls, to fatten in a fortnight ib.
----, to make tender ib.
----, to roast with anchovies ib.
----, with rice, called pilaw ib.
----, to hash 166
----, to stew ib.
Goose, to stuff ib.
----, liver of, to dress ib.
Pigeons, to boil ib.
----, to broil 167
Pigeons, to jug 167
----, to pot ib.
----, to stew ib.
----, biscuit of 168
----, en compote ib.
----, à la crapaudine 169
----, in disguise ib.
----, in fricandeau ib.
----, aux poires 170
----, pompeton of ib.
----, au soleil ib.
----, à la Tatare, with cold sauce 171
----, surtout of ib.
Poultry, tainted, to preserve ib.
Pullets, with oysters ib.
----, to bone and farce 172
Rabbits, to boil ib.
----, to boil with onions ib.
----, brown fricassee of ib.
----, white fricassee of ib.
Turkey, to boil 173
---- with oysters ib.
---- à la daube ib.
----, roasted, delicate gravy for 174
---- or veal stuffing ib.

GAME.

Hare, to dress 175
----, to roast ib.
----, to hash 176
----, to jug ib.
----, to mince 177
----, to stew ib.
---- stuffing ib.
Partridge, to boil 177
----, to roast ib.
----, à la paysanne ib.
----, à la Polonaise ib.
----, à la russe 178
----, rolled ib.
----, stewed ib.
----, salme of ib.
----, to pot 179
---- pie ib.
Pheasant, to boil ib.
----, with white sauce 180
----, à la braise ib.
----, à l'Italienne ib.
Pheasant, puré of 181
Widgeon, to dress ib.
Wild-duck, to roast ib.
Woodcocks and snipes, to roast ib.
----, à la Française ib.
----, to pot ib.

SAUCES.

Anchovy, essence of 183
---- pickle ib.
---- sauce ib.
----, to recover ib.
Bacchanalian sauce 184
Bechamel ib.
Beef bouilli, sauce for ib.
---- à la russe, sauce for 185
Bread sauce ib.
---- ---- for pig ib.
Browning for made dishes ib.
Butter, to burn 186
----, to clarify ib.
----, plain melted ib.
----, to thicken for peas ib.
Caper sauce 187
Carp sauce ib.
----, light brown sauce for ib.
---- and tench, sauce for ib.
----, white sauce for ib.
----, or tench, Dutch sauce for 188
---- sauce for fish ib.
Cavechi, an Indian pickle ib.
Celery sauce, white 189
---- ----, brown ib.
Chickens, boiled, sauce for ib.
---- or game, sauce for ib.
----, white sauce for ib.
Consommé ib.
Cream sauce for white dishes 190
Cullis, to thicken sauces ib.
----, brown ib.
----, à la reine ib.
----, turkey 191
---- of veal, or other meat ib.
Dandy sauce, for all sorts of poultry and game ib.
Devonshire sauce 192
Ducks, sauce for ib.
Dutch sauce ib.
---- sauce for fish ib.
---- sauce for meat or fish ib.
---- sauce for trout 193
Egg sauce ib.
Exquisite, the ib.
Fish sauce ib.
---- sauce, excellent white 196
----, white sauce for, with capers and anchovies ib.
----, stock ib.
Forcemeat balls for sauces ib.
Fowls, white sauce for 197
---- of all kinds, or roasted mutton, sauce for ib.
General sauce 198
Genoese sauce, for stewed fish ib.
German sauce 198
Gravy, beef ib.
---- beef, to keep 199
----, brown ib.
Green sauce, for green geese or ducklings ib.
Ham sauce 200
Hare or venison sauce ib.
Harvey's sauce ib.
Hashes or fish, sauce for ib.
----, white, or chickens, sauce for ib.
Horseradish sauce ib.
Italian sauce 201
Ketchup ib.
Lemon sauce ib.
Liver sauce for boiled fowls ib.
Lobster sauce ib.
Marchioness's sauce 202
Meat jelly for sauces ib.
Mixed sauce ib.
Mushroom ketchup 203
---- sauce 204
Mutton, roasted, sauce for ib.
Onion sauce ib.
---- ----, brown ib.
Oyster sauce ib.
Pepper-pot ib.
Pike sauce 205
Piquante, sauce ib.
Poivrade sauce 206
Poor man's sauce ib.
Quin's fish sauce ib.
Ragout sauce ib.
Ravigotte, sauce ib.
---- ----, à la bourgeoise ib.
Relishing sauce 207
Remoulade, sauce ib.
Rice sauce 208
Richmond sauce ib.
Roast meat, sauce for ib.
Robert, sauce ib.
Salad sauce ib.
Shalot sauce 209
Spanish sauce ib.
Steaks, sauce for ib.
Sultana sauce ib.
Tomato ketchup ib.
---- sauce 210
Turkey, savoury jelly for ib.
---- or chicken sauce 211
---- or fowl, boiled, sauce for ib.
Venison sauce ib.
---- ----, sweet ib.
Walnut ketchup ib.
White sauce 213
---- wine sweet sauce ib.

CONFECTIONARY.

Almacks 215
Almond butter ib.
---- cheesecakes ib.
---- cream 216
---- paste ib.
---- puffs 217
Angelica, to candy ib.
Apples, to do ib.
----, (pippins) to candy ib.
----, (pippins) to dry ib.
----, to preserve green 218
----, (golden pippins) to preserve ib.
----, (crabs) to preserve ib.
----, (Siberian crabs) to preserve, transparent ib.
----, (golden pippins) to stew ib.
----, cheese 219
----, conserve of ib.
----, demandon ib.
----, fraise ib.
----, fritters 220
----, jelly ib.
----, (crab) jam or jelly 221
----, (pippin or codling) jelly ib.
---- and pears, to dry ib.
Apricots in brandy 222
---- chips ib.
---- burnt cream ib.
----, to dry ib.
----, jam 223
---- and plum jam ib.
---- paste ib.
----, to preserve ib.
----, to preserve whole 224
----, to preserve in jelly ib.
Bances, French ib.
Barberries, to preserve 225
Biscuits ib.
----, Dutch ib.
----, ginger 226
----, lemon ib.
----, ratafia ib.
----, table ib.
Blancmange ib.
----, Dutch 227
Bread ib.
----, diet ib.
----, potato 228
----, rice ib.
----, rye ib.
----, Scotch, short ib.
Loaves, buttered ib.
Loaf, egg 229
Buns ib.
----, Bath 230
----, plain ib.
Butter, to make without churning ib.
----, black ib.
----, Spanish 231
Cake ib.
----, excellent ib.
----, great ib.
----, light ib.
----, nice ib.
----, plain 232
----, very rich 232
----, without butter ib.
----, almond ib.
----, almond, clear 233
----, apple 234
----, apricot clear ib.
----, biscuit ib.
----, bread ib.
----, breakfast 235
----, breakfast, excellent ib.
----, breakfast, Bath ib.
----, butter ib.
----, caraway 236
----, caraway, small 237
----, cocoa-nut ib.
----, currant, clear ib.
----, egg ib.
----, enamelled ib.
----, Epsom ib.
----, ginger 238
----, ginger, or hunting ib.
----, gooseberry, clear ib.
----, Jersey ib.
----, Jersey merveilles ib.
----, London wigs 239
----, onion ib.
----, orange ib.
----, orange clove ib.
----, orange-flower 240
----, plum ib.
----, plum, clear ib.
----, Portugal ib.
----, potato ib.
----, pound ib.
----, pound davy 242
----, quince, clear ib.
----, ratafia ib.
----, rice ib.
----, rock 243
----, royal ib.
----, Savoy or sponge ib.
----, seed ib.
----, Shrewsbury 244
----, sponge 245
----, sugar ib.
----, sugar, little ib.
----, sweet ib.
----, tea ib.
----, tea, dry 246
----, thousand ib.
----, Tunbridge ib.
----, veal ib.
----, Yorkshire 247
Calves'-foot jelly ib.
Cheese, to make ib.
----, the best in the world 248
----, to stew 249
----, cream ib.
----, cream, Princess Amelia's ib.
----, cream, Irish ib.
----, rush 250
----, winter cream ib.
----, cream, to make without cream ib.
----, damson ib.
----, French 251
----, Italian ib.
----, lemon ib.
Cheesecakes ib.
----, almond 253
----, cocoa-nut ib.
----, cream ib.
----, curd 254
----, lemon ib.
----, orange ib.
----, Scotch ib.
Cherries, to preserve 255
----, to preserve (Morella) ib.
----, brandy 256
----, to dry ib.
----, dried, liquor for ib.
Cherry jam 257
Cocoa jam ib.
Cocoa-nut candy ib.
Coffee, to roast ib.
----, to make the foreign way ib.
Cream, to make rise in cold weather 258
----, to fry ib.
----, and curd, artificial ib.
----, of rice 259
----, almond ib.
----, barley ib.
----, French barley ib.
----, chocolate 260
----, citron ib.
----, clotted ib.
----, coffee ib.
----, eringo ib.
----, fruit 261
----, preserved fruit ib.
----, Italian ib.
----, lemon ib.
----, lemon, without cream 262
----, lemon, frothed ib.
----, orange ib.
----, orange, frothed 263
----, Imperial, orange ib.
----, pistachio ib.
----, raspberry ib.
----, ratafia ib.
----, rice ib.
----, runnet whey 264
----, snow ib.
----, strawberry ib.
----, sweetmeat ib.
----, whipt ib.
Cucumbers, to preserve green ib.
Curd, cream 265
----, lemon ib.
----, Paris ib.
Currants, to bottle ib.
----, or barberries, to dry 266
----, to ice ib.
----, white, to preserve ib.
Currant jam 267
----, jelly, black or red ib.
----, juice ib.
----, paste 268
Custard ib.
----, almond 269
Damsons, to bottle ib.
----, to dry ib.
----, to preserve without sugar 269
Dripping, to clarify for crust ib.
Dumplings ib.
----, currant 270
----, drop ib.
----, kitchen hard ib.
----, yest ib.
Eggs 271
----, whites of ib.
Figs, to dry ib.
Flowers, small, to candy ib.
----, in sprigs, to candy 272
Flummery, Dutch ib.
----, hartshorn ib.
Fondues 273
Fritters, Yorkshire ib.
Fruit, to preserve ib.
----, to preserve green ib.
----, of all sorts, to scald ib.
Gingerbread 274
----, thick 275
----, cakes or nuts ib.
Gooseberries, to bottle ib.
----, in jelly ib.
----, to preserve 276
----, paste of 277
Grapes, to dry ib.
----, to preserve ib.
Greengages, to preserve ib.
Hartshorn jelly 278
Hedgehog ib.
Ice and cream ib.
----, lemon 279
Iceing for cakes ib.
Jaunemange ib.
Jelly, coloured ib.
----, Gloucester 280
----, lemon ib.
----, nourishing ib.
----, orange ib.
----, restorative 281
----, strawberry ib.
----, wine ib.
Lemons or Seville oranges, to preserve 282
Lemon caudle ib.
---- or chocolate drops ib.
---- puffs 283
---- tart ib.
----, solid ib.
----, syrup of ib.
Macaroons ib.
Marmalade, citron ib.
----, cherry 284
----, orange ib.
----, Scotch, orange 285
----, red quince ib.
----, white quince 286
Marchpane ib.
Marrow pasties 287
Melons or cucumbers, to preserve ib.
Melon compote ib.
Mince-meat ib.
---- without meat 288
----, lemon 289
Mirangles ib.
Moss ib.
Muffins 290
Oranges, to preserve ib.
----, Seville, to preserve 291
Orange butter ib.
----, candied ib.
---- cream ib.
---- jelly 292
---- paste ib.
---- puffs ib.
---- sponge 293
---- and lemon syrup ib.
Oranges for a tart ib.
Orange tart ib.
Panada 294
Pancakes ib.
----, French 295
----, Grillon's ib.
----, quire of paper ib.
----, rice ib.
Paste ib.
----, for baking or frying ib.
----, for pies 296
----, for raised pies ib.
----, for tarts ib.
----, for tarts in pans ib.
----, for small tartlets ib.
----, potato ib.
----, rice 297
----, royal ib.
----, short or puff ib.
----, short ib.
----, short, with suet 298
----, sugar ib.
Peaches, to preserve in brandy ib.
Pears, to pot 299
----, to stew 300
Pie, chicken ib.
----, giblet ib.
----, common goose ib.
----, rich goose ib.
----, ham and chicken ib.
----, hare 301
----, lumber ib.
----, olive ib.
----, partridge ib.
----, rich pigeon 302
----, high veal ib.
----, vegetable ib.
----, Yorkshire Christmas ib.
Pineapple, to preserve in slices ib.
---- chips 303
Plums, to dry green ib.
----, green, jam of ib.
----, great white, to preserve 304
Posset ib.
----, sack ib.
----, sack, without milk ib.
----, sack, or jelly 305
Puffs ib.
----, cheese ib.
----, chocolate ib.
----, German ib.
----, Spanish 306
Pudding ib.
----, good ib.
----, very good ib.
----, excellent 307
----, plain ib.
----, scalded 307
----, sweet ib.
----, all three ib.
----, almond ib.
----, amber 308
----, Princess Amelia's ib.
----, apple-mignon ib.
----, apple ib.
----, arrow-root 309
----, pearl barley ib.
----, batter ib.
----, plain batter ib.
----, Norfolk batter 310
----, green bean ib.
----, beef-steak ib.
----, bread ib.
----, bread, rich 311
----, bread and butter ib.
----, raisin-bread ib.
----, buttermilk ib.
----, carrot ib.
----, Charlotte 312
----, cheese ib.
----, citron ib.
----, cocoa-nut ib.
----, college 313
----, new college ib.
----, cottage 314
----, currant ib.
----, custard ib.
----, fish 315
----, French ib.
----, gooseberry ib.
----, hunters' 316
----, jug ib.
----, lemon ib.
----, small lemon ib.
----, maccaroni ib.
----, marrow ib.
----, Nottingham 317
----, oatmeal ib.
----, orange ib.
----, paradise 318
----, pith 319
----, plum ib.
----, plum, rich 320
----, potato ib.
----, Pottinger's 321
----, prune ib.
----, quaking ib.
----, ratafia 322
----, rice ib.
----, plain rice ib.
----, ground rice 323
----, rice, hunting ib.
----, kitchen rice ib.
----, rice plum ib.
----, small rice ib.
----, Swedish rice ib.
----, rice white pot 324
----, sago ib.
----, spoonful ib.
----, plain suet ib.
----, tansy ib.
----, tapioca 325
----, neat's tongue ib.
Quatre fruits ib.
Quinces, to preserve ib.
Ramaquins 326
Raspberries, to preserve 327
----, to preserve in currant jelly ib.
----, jam 328
----, paste ib.
Rice crust, apple tart with 329
Rolls ib.
----, excellent ib.
----, little 330
----, breakfast ib.
----, Brentford ib.
----, Dutch ib.
----, French 331
----, Milton 332
Runnet ib.
Rusks ib.
----, and tops and bottoms ib.
Sally Lunn 333
Slipcote ib.
Soufflé ib.
---- of apples and rice ib.
Strawberries, to preserve for eating with cream 334
Strawberries, to preserve in currant jelly 334
----, to preserve in gooseberry jelly 335
----, jam ib.
Sugar, to clarify ib.
Syllabub 336
----, everlasting ib.
----, solid ib.
----, whipt ib.
Taffy 337
Trifle ib.
Trotter jelly ib.
Veal and ham patés ib.
Venison pasty 338
Vol-au-vent ib.
Wafers ib.
----, sugar ib.
Walnuts, to preserve ib.
----, white ib.
Whey, mustard ib.
Yest ib.
----, excellent 340
----, potato ib.

PICKLES.

General Directions 341
Almonds, green ib.
Artichokes ib.
----, to boil in winter ib.
Asparagus 342
Barberries ib.
Beet-root ib.
---- and turnips 343
Cabbage ib.
----, red ib.
Capers 344
Capsicum ib.
Cauliflower ib.
Clove gilliflower, or any other flower, for salads ib.
Codlings ib.
Cucumbers 345
----, large, mango of 346
----, sliced ib.
----, stuffed ib.
----, to preserve 347
French beans 348
Herrings, to marinate 349
----, red, trout fashion ib.
India pickle, called Picolili ib.
Lemons 350
----, or oranges 352
Mango cossundria 353
Melons ib.
----, to imitate mangoes ib.
----, or cucumbers, as mangoes ib.
Mushrooms 354
----, brown 356
----, to dry ib.
----, liquor and powder ib.
Mustard pickle ib.
Nasturtiums 357
Onions ib.
----, Spanish, mango of 358
Orange and lemon-peel ib.
Oysters ib.
Peaches, mango of 359
Purslain, samphire, broom-buds, &c. 360
Quinces ib.
Radish pods ib.
Salmon 361
----, to marinate 362
Samphire ib.
Smelts ib.
Suckers ib.
Vinegar, for pickling ib.
----, camp 363
----, Chili ib.
----, elder-flower ib.
----, garlic 364
----, gooseberry ib.
----, plague or four thieves' 365
----, raisin ib.
----, raspberry ib.
Walnuts, black 366
----, green 367
----, ketchup of ib.

WINES, CORDIALS, LIQUEURS, &c.

Ale, to drink in a week 369
----, very rare ib.
----, orange ib.
Aqua mirabilis 370
Bitters ib.
Cherry brandy ib.
Cherry water, cordial ib.
Cordial, very fine 371
Cup ib.
Elder-flower water ib.
Elder-berry syrup ib.
Ginger beer 372
Imperial 373
Lemonade ib.
----, clarified 374
----, milk ib.
----, transparent ib.
Lemon water ib.
Mead ib.
Mithridate brandy 375
Nonpareil ib.
Noyau 376
Orange juice ib.
Oranges, or lemons, spirit of ib.
Orange-water, cordial ib.
Orgeat ib.
Punch, excellent 377
----, milk ib.
----, Norfolk ib.
----, Roman 378
Raspberry liqueur ib.
---- vinegar ib.
Ratafia brandy ib.
Shrub 379
----, currant ib.
Spruce beer ib.
Wine, bittany 379
----, champagne, sham 380
----, cherry ib.
----, cowslip ib.
----, currant 381
----, currant, or elder 382
----, currant, black ib.
----, currant, red ib.
----, currant, red or white ib.
----, damson 383
----, elder ib.
----, elder flower 385
----, frontiniac, sham ib.
----, mixed fruit ib.
----, ginger ib.
----, gooseberry 386
----, grape 387
----, lemon 388
----, madeira, sham ib.
----, orange ib.
----, port, sham 389
----, raisin ib.

THE
LADY'S OWN COOKERY BOOK.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS.

The following directions may appear trite and common, but it is of the
greatest consequence that they be strictly observed:

Attend to minute cleanliness. Never wipe a dish, bowl, or pan, with a
half dirty napkin, or give the vessel a mere rinse in water and think
that it is then fit for use. See that it be dried and pure from all
smell before you put in any ingredient.

Never use the hands when it is possible to avoid it; and, when you do,
have a clean basin of water to dip them in, and wipe them thoroughly
several times while at work, as in mixing dough, &c.

Use silver or wooden spoons; the latter are best for all confectionery
and puddings. Take care that the various spoons, skewers, and knives, be
not used promiscuously for cookery and confectionery, or even for
different dishes of the same sort.

If an onion is cut with any knife, or lies near any article of kitchen
use, that article is not fit for service till it has been duly scoured
and laid in the open air. The same remark applies to very many strong
kitchen herbs. This point is scarcely ever enough attended to.

In measuring quantities, be extremely exact, having always some
particular vessel set apart for each ingredient (best of earthenware,
because such cannot retain any smell) wherewith to ascertain your
quantities. Do nothing by guess, how practised soever you may deem
yourself in the art: nor say "Oh! I want none of your measures for such
a thing as a little seasoning," taking a pinch here and there. Be
assured you will never in that way make a dish, or a sauce, twice in the
same manner; it may be good by _chance_, but it will always be a
_chance_, and the chances are very much against it; at all events it
will not be precisely the _same_ thing, and precision is the very
essence of good cookery.

The French say _Il faut que rien ne domine_--No one ingredient must
predominate. This is a good rule to please general taste and great
judges; but, to secure the favour of a particular palate it is not
infallible: as, in a good herb soup, for instance, it may better delight
the master or mistress that some one herb or savoury meat _should_
predominate. Consult, therefore, the peculiarities of the tastes of your
employer; for, though a dish may be a good dish of its kind, if it is
not suited to the taste of the eater of what avail is it?

Let not the vanity of the cook induce you to forget the duty of a
servant, which is, in the first place, to please his master: be
particular, therefore, in enquiring what things please your employer.
Many capital cooks will be found for great feasts and festivals, but
very few for every-day service, because this is not "eye-service," but
the service of principle and duty. Few, indeed, there are who will take
equal pains to make one delicate dish, one small exquisite dinner, for
the three hundred and sixty-five days in the year; yet this is by far
the most valuable attainment of the two.

The great secret of all cookery consists in making fine meat jellies;
this is done at less expence than may be imagined by a _careful, honest_
cook. For this purpose let all parings of meats of every kind, all
bones, however dry they may appear, be carefully collected, and put over
a very slow fire in a small quantity of water, always adding a little
more as the water boils down. Skim this juice when cool: and, having
melted it a second time, pass it through a sieve till thoroughly pure:
put no salt or pepper; use this fine jelly for any sauce, adding herbs,
or whatever savoury condiments you think proper, at the time it is used.

Be careful all summer long to dry vegetables and herbs. Almost every
herb and vegetable may be dried and preserved for winter use; for on
these must chiefly depend all the varied flavours of your dishes.
Mushrooms and artichokes strung on a string, with a bit of wood knotted
in between each to prevent their touching, and hung in a dry place, will
be excellent; and every species of culinary herb may be preserved either
in bottles or paper bags.

A CATALOGUE OF THINGS IN SEASON.

JANUARY.

_Fish._

Cod, skate, thornback, salmon, soles, eels, perch, carp, tench,
flounders, prawns, lobsters, crabs, shrimps, cockles, muscles, oysters,
smelts, whiting.

_Game and Poultry._

Hares, pheasants, partridges, wild ducks, widgeon, teal, capons,
pullets, fowls, chickens, squab-pigeons, tame rabbits, woodcocks,
snipes, larks, blackbirds, and wood-pigeons.

_Fruit._

Portugal grapes, the Kentish russet, golden French kirton, Dutch
pippins, nonpareils, pearmains, russetting apples, and all sorts of
winter pears.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Many sorts of cabbages, savoys, sprouts, and greens, parsnips, carrots,
turnips, potatoes, celery, endive, cabbage-lettuces, leeks, onions,
horseradish, small salad under glasses, sweet herbs, and parsley, green
and white brocoli, beet-root, beet-leaves and tops, forced asparagus,
cucumbers in hotbeds, French beans and peas in the hothouse.

FEBRUARY.

_Fish._

Cod, skate, thornback, salmon, sturgeon, soles, flounders, whitings,
smelts, crabs, lobsters, prawns, shrimps, oysters, eels, crawfish, carp,
tench, and perch.

_Game and Poultry._

Hares and partridges till the 14th. Turkeys, capons, pullets with eggs,
fowls, chickens, tame rabbits, woodcocks, snipes, all sorts of
wild-fowl, which begin to decline in this month.

_Fruit._

Nearly the same as last month.

_Roots and Vegetables._

The same as last month.

MARCH.

_Fish._

Cod and codlings, turbot, salmon, skate, thornback, smelts, soles,
crabs, lobsters, prawns, flounders, plaice, oysters, perch, carp, tench,
eels, gudgeons, mullet, and sometimes mackerel, comes in.

_Poultry._

Turkeys, pullets, fowls, chickens, ducklings, tame rabbits, pigeons,
guinea-fowl.

_Fruit._

Pineapples, the golden ducket, Dorset pippins, rennetings, Loan's
pearmain, nonpareils, John apples, the later bonchretien and
double-blossom pears.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes, beet, leeks, onions, green and
white brocoli, brocoli sprouts, brown and green cole, cabbage sprouts,
greens, spinach, small salad, parsley, sorrel, corn salad, green fennel,
sweet herbs of all sorts, cabbage lettuces, forced mushrooms, asparagus
forced, cucumbers in hotbeds, French beans and peas in hothouses, and
young radishes and onions.

APRIL.

_Fish._

Salmon, turbot, mackerel, skate, thornback, red and grey mullet,
gurnets, pipers, soles, lobsters, oysters, prawns, crawfish, smelts,
carp, perch, pike, gudgeons, eels, and plaice.

_Game and Poultry._

Pullets, fowls, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, tame rabbits, and
sometimes young leverets, guinea-fowl.

_Fruit._

A few apples and pears, pineapples, hothouse grapes, strawberries,
cherries, apricots for tarts, and green gooseberries.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Carrots, potatoes, horseradish, onions, leeks, celery, brocoli sprouts,
cabbage plants, cabbage lettuce, asparagus, spinach, parsley, thyme, all
sorts of small salads, young radishes and onions, cucumbers in hotbeds,
French beans and peas in the hothouse, green fennel, sorrel, chervil,
and, if the weather is fine, all sorts of sweet herbs begin to grow.

MAY.

_Fish._

Turbot, salmon, soles, smelts, trout, whiting, mackerel, herrings, eels,
plaice, flounders, crabs, lobsters, prawns, shrimps, crawfish.

_Game and Poultry._

Pullets, fowls, chickens, guinea-fowl, green geese, ducklings, pigeons,
tame rabbits, leverets, and sometimes turkey poults.

_Fruit._

Strawberries, green apricots, cherries, gooseberries, and currants, for
tarts, hothouse pineapples, grapes, apricots, peaches, and fine
cherries.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Spring carrots, horseradish, beet-root, early cauliflower, spring
cabbage, sprouts, spinach, coss, cabbage, and Silesia lettuces, all
sorts of small salads, asparagus, hotspur beans, peas, fennel, mint,
balm, parsley, all sorts of sweet herbs, cucumbers and French beans
forced, radishes, and young onions, mushrooms in the cucumber beds.

JUNE.

_Fish._

Turbot, trout, mackerel, mullet, salmon, salmon trout, soles, smelts,
eels, lobsters, crabs, crawfish, prawns, and shrimps.

_Game and Poultry._

Spring fowls, and chickens, geese, ducks, turkey poults, young wild and
tame rabbits, pigeons, leverets, and wheatears.

_Fruit._

Pineapples, currants, gooseberries, scarlet strawberries, hautboys,
several sorts of cherries, apricots, and green codlings.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Young carrots, early potatoes, young turnips, peas, garden beans,
cauliflowers, summer cabbages, spinach, coss, cabbage, and Silesia
lettuces, French beans, cucumbers, asparagus, mushrooms, purslain,
radishes, turnip-radishes, horseradish, and onions.

JULY.

_Fish._

Turbot, salmon, salmon trout, Berwick and fresh water trout, red and
grey mullet, Johndories, skate, thornback, maids, soles, flounders,
eels, lobsters, crawfish, prawns, and shrimps.

_Game and Poultry._

Leverets, geese, ducks and ducklings, fowls, chickens, turkey poults,
quails, wild rabbits, wheatears, and young wild ducks.

_Fruit._

Pineapples, peaches, apricots, scarlet and wood strawberries, hautboys,
summer apples, codlings, summer pears, green-gage and Orleans plums,
melons, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, cherries of all kinds, and
green walnuts to pickle.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Carrots, potatoes, turnips, onions, cauliflowers, marrowfat and other
peas, Windsor beans, French beans, mushrooms, sorrel, artichokes,
spinach, cabbages, cucumbers, coss and cabbage lettuces, parsley, all
sorts of sweet and potherbs, mint, balm, salsify, and field mushrooms.

AUGUST.

_Fish._

Codlings, some turbot, which goes out this month, skate, thornback,
maids, haddock, flounders, red and grey mullet, Johndories, pike, perch,
gudgeons, roach, eels, oysters, crawfish, some salmon, salmon trout,
Berwick and fresh water trout.

_Game and Poultry._

Leverets, geese, turkey poults, ducks, fowls, chickens, wild rabbits,
quails, wheatears, young wild ducks, and some pigeons.

_Fruit._

Pineapples, melons, cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines, apples,
pears, all sorts of plums, morella cherries, filberts and other nuts,
currants, raspberries, late gooseberries, figs, early grapes,
mulberries, and ripe codlings.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes, onions, horseradish, beet-root,
shalots, garlic, cauliflower, French beans, later peas, cucumbers,
cabbages, sprouts, coss lettuce, endive, celery, parsley, sweet herbs,
artichokes, artichoke suckers, chardoons, mushrooms, and all sorts of
small salads.

SEPTEMBER.

_Fish._

Cod, codlings, skate, thornback, haddocks, soles, whitings, herrings
come in full season, salmon, smelts, flounders, pike, perch, carp,
tench, eels, lampreys, oysters, cockles, muscles, crawfish, prawns, and
shrimps.

_Game and Poultry._

Hares, leverets, partridges, quails, young turkeys, geese, ducks,
capons, pullets, fowls, chickens, pigeons, wild and tame rabbits, wild
ducks, widgeon, teal, plover, larks, and pippets.

_Fruit._

Pineapples, melons, grapes, peaches, plums, nectarines, pears, apples,
quinces, medlars, filberts, hazel nuts, walnuts, morella cherries,
damsons, white and black bullace.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, leeks, horseradish, beet-root,
onions, shalots, garlic, celery, endive, coss and cabbage lettuces,
artichokes, French beans, latter peas, mushrooms, cucumbers, red and
other cabbages, cabbage plants, Jerusalem artichokes, parsley, sorrel,
chervil, thyme, all sorts of sweet herbs, mint, balm, all sorts of small
salad.

OCTOBER.

_Fish._

Cod, codlings, brill, haddocks, whiting, soles, herrings, cole-fish,
halibut, smelts, eels, flounders, perch, pike, carp, tench, oysters,
cockles, muscles, lobsters, crabs, crawfish, prawns, and shrimps.

_Game and Poultry._

Hares, leverets, pheasants, partridges, moor-game, grouse, turkeys,
geese, ducks, capons, pullets, fowls, chickens, pigeons, wild and tame
rabbits, all sorts of wild-fowl, larks, plovers, woodcocks, snipes,
wood-pigeons, pippets.

_Fruit._

Pineapples, peaches, grapes, figs, medlars, all sorts of fine apples and
pears, white plums, damsons, white and black bullace, quinces, filberts,
walnuts, and chesnuts.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, leeks, horseradish, onions,
shalots, garlic, beet-root, artichokes, latter cauliflowers, red and
white cabbages, savoys, cabbage plants, green and white brocoli,
chardoons, green and brown cole, celery, endive, spinach, sorrel,
chervil, parsley, purslain, all sorts of sweet herbs, coss and cabbage
lettuces, rocambole, and all sorts of small salads.

NOVEMBER.

_Fish._

Cod, salmon, herrings, barbel, halibut, smelts, flounders, whiting,
haddock, pipers, gurnets, pike, perch, carp, tench, eels, lobsters,
crabs, oysters, muscles, cockles, crawfish, prawns, and shrimps.

_Game and Poultry._

The same as last month.

_Fruit._

Pineapples, all sorts of winter pears, golden pippins, nonpareils, all
sorts of winter apples, medlars, white and black bullace, and walnuts
kept in sand.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Turnips, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, beets, chardoons, onions, shalots,
garlic, rocambole, cauliflowers in the greenhouse, red and other
cabbages, savoys, cabbage plants, winter spinach, forced asparagus, late
cucumbers, forced mushrooms, parsley, sorrel, chervil, thyme, all sorts
of sweet herbs, celery, endive, cabbage lettuces, brown and green cole,
and all sorts of small salads under glasses.

DECEMBER.

_Fish._

Cod, codlings, halibut, skate, sturgeon, soles, salmon, gurnets,
haddock, whiting, sometimes turbots come with the soles, herrings,
perch, pike, carp, tench, eels, lobsters, crabs, crawfish, muscles,
cockles, prawns, shrimps, Thames flounders, and smelts.

_Game and Poultry._

Hares, pheasants, partridges, moor or heath game, grouse, turkeys,
geese, capons, pullets, fowls, chickens, all sorts of wild-fowl, wood
cocks, snipes, larks, wild and tame rabbits, dottrels, wood-pigeons,
blackbirds, thrushes, plover both green and grey.

_Fruit._

All sorts of winter pears and apples, medlars, chesnuts, Portugal grapes
and grapes hung in the room, and walnuts kept in sand.

_Roots and Vegetables._

Same as the last month.

* * * * *

Beef, mutton, and veal, are in season all the year; house lamb in
January, February, March, April, May, October, November, and December.
Grass lamb comes in at Easter and lasts till April or May; pork from
September till April or May; roasting pigs all the year; buck venison in
June, July, August, and September; doe and heifer venison in October,
November, December, and January.

GENERAL RULES FOR A GOOD DINNER.

There should be always two soups, white and brown, two fish, dressed and
undressed; a bouilli and petits-patés; and on the sideboard a plain
roast joint, besides many savoury articles, such as hung beef, Bologna
sausages, pickles, cold ham, cold pie, &c. some or all of these
according to the number of guests, the names of which the head-servant
ought to whisper about to the company, occasionally offering them. He
should likewise carry about all the side-dishes or _entrées_, after the
soups are taken away in rotation. A silver lamp should be kept burning,
to put any dish upon that may grow cold.

It is indispensable to have candles, or plateau, or epergne, in the
middle of the table.

Beware of letting the table appear loaded; neither should it be too
bare. The soups and fish should be dispatched before the rest of the
dinner is set on; but, lest any of the guests eat of neither, two small
dishes of patés should be on the table. Of course, the meats and
vegetables and fruits which compose these dinners must be varied
according to the season, the number of guests, and the tastes of the
host and hostess. It is also needless to add that without iced champagne
and Roman punch a dinner is not called a dinner.

These observations and the following directions for dinners are suitable
to persons who chuse to live _fashionably_; but the receipts contained
in this book will suit any mode of living, and the persons consulting it
will find matter for all tastes and all establishments. There is many an
excellent dish not considered adapted to a fashionable table, which,
nevertheless, is given in these pages.

A DINNER FOR FOURTEEN OR SIXTEEN PERSONS.

N.B. It is the fashion to lay two table-cloths, and never to leave the
table uncovered. Of course, the individual things must be varied
according to the season.

FIRST COURSE.

Queen Soup, white,
removed by
Plain boiled Turbot.

Petits Patés of Oysters.

+----------+
| Plateau, |
| or |
| Epergne, |
| or |
| Candles. |
+----------+

Petits Patés of Chickens.

Herb Soup, brown,
removed by
Dressed fish (Salmon.)

Remove the whole and set on as follows:--

Sweetbreads, Stewed Beef, Small
larded. with Beef
Vegetables. Pies.

Reindeer Tongues, Dressed Peas. Rissoles of
highly dressed in Veal and Ham,
sauce. served
in sauce.

Mutton Stuffed Cabbage. Supreme of
Cutlets Fowls.
glazed in
onion sauce.

Vol-au-vent. Roasted Turkey, Small breast
with truffles, of Veal
morels, chesnuts, &c. glazed brown, with
Peas under.

On the sideboard, fish sauces, cold pie, hot ham, saddle of mutton
roasted; pickles, cucumbers, salad, mashed potatoes, greens, and
cauliflowers, crumbs of bread, and grated Parmesan cheese. These
should be handed round, to eat with soup, or game, or fowl, if liked.

SECOND COURSE.

Larded Hare,
removed by
Souffle[16-*].
Cauliflower, Orange
with cheese. Jelly.
Apples
in compote.

Dressed Italian
Pigeons. Cream.
Creams
in
Glasses.

Small Puddings, Two roasted Pheasants, Jerusalem
with sauce. one larded, Artichokes.
one plain,
removed by
Fondu[16-+].

[16-*] Light sweet Pudding.

[16-+] Melted Cheese.

Remove the whole.

THIRD COURSE.

Gruyère[17-*]
Pickles. Cheese Pickles.
and
Schabzieger[17-*].

Anchovies. Kipper Salmon.
Stilton
and
Parmesan.

Radishes, cucumbers, salad, butter, &c. to be handed from the side
table.

[17-*] Swiss cheeses.

DESSERT.

Cream Ice,
Pistachio Nuts and removed by Figs.
Orange chips. a Preserved
Pineapple.

Dried Cake. Preserved
Sweetmeats. Plums.

Almonds Cake. Preserves of
and Raisins. Apricots.

Brandy Water Ice Sugared
Cherries. à la Macedoine, Walnuts.
removed by
Grapes.

DINNER FOR TWELVE OR FOURTEEN PERSONS.

FIRST COURSE.

White Soups,
Lamb Cutlets and removed by plain Fish: Stewed Chicken.
Asparagus sauce. removed by Bouilli,
dressed according to any
of the various receipts.

Patés.

Dressed Vegetable
Fricandeau, or in a mould. Beef Olives.
Sorrel sauce.
+----------+
| |
| Plateau. |
| |
Small +----------+ Small Ham,
savoury Pies. glazed.
Macaroni
in a mould.

Patés.

Breast of Veal, stewed
white, as per receipt.
Dressed Eggs. Small Ragout of
Any of the Brown Soups, Mutton.
removed by any of the
dressed Fish.

Sideboard furnished with plain joint and vegetables of all sorts,
pickles, &c.

SECOND COURSE.

Charlotte. Plover's Eggs.
Grouse.

Tart.

Trifle.

Fried Artichokes. Dressed Sea Kale.

Leveret.

THIRD COURSE.

Various Cheeses,
with
Red Herring.

Savoury Toasts.

Savoury Toasts.

Potted Game.

DESSERT.

Ice Water,
Chesnuts. removed by Walnuts.
Pineapple.

Various
Cake.
Plums. Pears.
Ice Cream,
removed by
Peaches.

DINNER FOR TEN OR TWELVE PERSONS.

FIRST COURSE.

Scotch Collops, Brown Soup, Ragout of
brown. removed by Ham.
Fish,
removed by
Boiled Turkey,
white sauce.

Vol-au-vent Fricandeau,
of Chicken. +----------+ with Spinach.
| |
| Plateau. |
| |
Cutlets with +----------+ Rissoles
Tomata sauce. of Fowl.
White Soup,
removed by
Dressed Fish,
removed by
Macaroni Roast Mutton. Patés
in paste. of Veal.

Sideboard--salad, brocoli, mashed potatoes, cold pie, potted meats.

SECOND COURSE.

Orange Jelly. Peahen, Plum Puddings.
larded.

Tart, Two Eggs, with
Sponge Cake, Wild Fowls. white sauce,
with Custard. cheesecakes.

Sideboard, Sea Kale, Pickles, Greens, Potatoes.

THIRD COURSE.

Gruyère--Schabzieger.
Butter. Celery.
Grated Parmesan.

Salad.

DESSERT.

Ice.
Biscuits. Currants.
Apricots.

Cakes.

Peaches.
Gooseberries. Wafers.
Ice.

DINNER FOR EIGHT PERSONS.

FIRST COURSE.

Dressed Patés of Veal
Asparagus. and Ham.
Fish,
removed by
Loin of Mutton,
rolled with
Tomata sauce.

Soup,
removed by
Roast Neck of Veal,
with rich white sauce
and Mushrooms.
Macaroni. Stewed Spinach.

Sideboard, a bouilli, a joint, pickles, plain boiled vegetables, &c.

SECOND COURSE.

Stewed Pigeons,
Dressed removed by Dressed
Eggs. a Fondu. French beans.

Roast Fowl,
Fried with Dressed Ham.
Artichokes. Water Cresses,
removed by
Souffle.

When a plain roast fowl, there should be on the sideboard egg sauce or
bread sauce; if a plain duck, wine sauce or onion sauce.

CHEESE COURSE.

Various Cheeses,
Bologna Sausages,
Pickles.
Savoury Toasts,
&c. &c.

DESSERT.

Ice Cream,
removed by
a large Cake
stuck with Sweetmeats.

Oranges. Brandy Dry Preserves.
Cherries.

+----------+
| |
| Plateau. |
| |
+----------+

Wet Preserves. Apples.
Brandy
Peaches.

Strawberries.

DINNER FOR SIX PERSONS.

FIRST COURSE.

Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Small Ham. Fish, Sea Kale,
removed by white sauce.
Roast Veal
bechamelled.

+----------+
| |
| Plateau. |
| |
+----------+

Stewed Turnips, Alamode Mutton Cutlets,
browned. Beef. Sauce piquante.

SECOND COURSE.

Turkey Poult stuffed,
Blancmange. glazed brown, Croquets
fine rich brown sauce of Potatoes.
under.

+----------+
| |
| Plateau. |
| |
+----------+

Dressed Peas. Stewed Duck, Tart.
with Truffles, Morells,
&c.

THIRD COURSE.

Two or three sorts of cheeses (plain), a small fondu, relishes, &c.

DESSERT.

Ice,
Brandy Peaches. removed by Apples.
Preserved Citron.

+----------+
| |
| Plateau. |
| |
+----------+

Large Cake
Oranges. like a hedgehog, Dry Preserves.
stuck with Almonds.

DINNER FOR FOUR PERSONS.

FIRST COURSE.

Hare Soup,
removed by
Fish,
removed by
Bouilli Beef.

Chicken Pie

SECOND COURSE.

Raspberry Widgeon. Stewed
Cream. French Beans.

Partridge.

Cheese as usual.

DESSERT.

Orange Chips. Dry Preserves.

Wet Preserves. Wafers.

SOUPS.

_Almond Soup._

Take lean beef or veal, about eight or nine pounds, and a scrag of
mutton; boil them gently in water that will cover them, till the gravy
be very strong and the meat very tender; then strain off the gravy and
set it on the fire with two ounces of vermicelli, eight blades of mace,
twelve cloves, to a gallon. Let it boil till it has the flavour of the
spices. Have ready one pound of the best almonds, blanched and pounded
very fine; pound them with the yolks of twelve eggs, boiled hard, mixing
as you pound them with a little of the soup, lest the almonds should
grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp: add a little soup by
degrees to the almonds and eggs until mixed together. Let the soup be
cool when you mix it, and do it perfectly smooth. Strain it through a
sieve; set it on the fire; stir it frequently; and serve it hot. Just
before you take it up add a gill of thick cream.

_Asparagus Soup._

Put five or six pounds of lean beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour,
into your stewpan, with two or three slices of bacon at the bottom: set
it on a slow fire and cover it close, stirring it now and then, till
your gravy is drawn; then put in two quarts of water and half a pint of
pale ale; cover it close and let it stew gently for an hour. Put in some
whole pepper and salt to your taste. Then strain out the liquor and take
off the fat; put in the leaves of white beet, some spinach, some cabbage
lettuce, a little mint, sorrel, and sweet marjoram, pounded; let these
boil up in your liquor. Then put in your green tops of asparagus, cut
small, and let them boil till all is tender. Serve hot, with the crust
of a French roll in the dish.

_Another._

Boil three half pints of winter split peas; rub them through a sieve;
add a little gravy; then stew by themselves the following
herbs:--celery, a few young onions, a lettuce, cut small, and about half
a pint of asparagus, cut small, like peas, and stewed with the rest;
colour the soup of a pea green with spinach juice; add half a pint of
cream or good milk, and serve up.

_Calf's Head Soup._

Take a knuckle of veal, and put as much water to it as will make a good
soup; let it boil, skimming it very well. Add two carrots, three
anchovies, a little mace, pepper, celery, two onions, and some
sweetherbs. Let it boil to a good soup, and strain it off. Put to it a
full half pint of Madeira wine; take a good many mushrooms, stew them in
their own liquor; add this sauce to your soup. Scald the calf's head as
for a hash; cut it in the same manner, but smaller; flour it a little,
and fry it of a fine brown. Then put the soup and fried head together
into a stewpan, with some oysters and mushrooms, and let them stew
gently for an hour.

_Carrot Soup._

Take about two pounds of veal and the same of lean beef; make it into a
broth or gravy, and put it by until wanted. Take a quarter of a pound of
butter, four large fine carrots, two turnips, two parsnips, two heads of
celery, and four onions; stew these together about two hours, and shake
it often that they may not burn to the stewpan; then add the broth made
as above, boiling hot, in quantity to your own judgment, and as you like
it for thickness. It should be of about the consistency of pea-soup.
Pass it through a tamis. Season to your taste.

_Another._

Take four pounds of beef, a scrag of mutton, about a dozen large
carrots, four onions, some pepper and salt; put them into a gallon of
water, and boil very gently for four hours. Strain the meat, and take
the carrots and rub them very smooth through a hair sieve, adding the
gravy by degrees till about as thick as cream. The gravy must have all
the fat taken off before it is added to the carrots. Turnip soup is made
in the same way.

_Clear Soup._

Take six pounds of gravy beef; cut it small, put it into a large
stewpan, with onions, carrots, turnips, celery, a small bunch of herbs,
and one cup of water. Stew these on the fire for an hour, then add nine
pints of boiling water; let it boil for six hours, strain it through a
fine sieve, and let it stand till next day; take off the fat; put it
into a clean stewpan, set it on the fire till it is quite hot; then
break three eggs into a basin, leaving the shells with them. Add this to
the soup by degrees; cover close till it boils; then strain it into a
pan through a fine cloth. When the eggs are well beaten, a little hot
soup must be added by degrees, and beaten up before it is put into the
stewpan with the whole of the soup.

_Clear Herb Soup._

Put celery, leeks, carrots, turnips, cabbage lettuce, young onions, all
cut fine, with a handful of young peas: give them a scald in boiling
water; put them on a sieve to drain, and then put them into a clear
consommé, and let them boil slowly till the roots are quite tender.
Season with a little salt. When going to table put a little crust of
French roll in it.

_Cod's Head Soup._

Take six large onions, cut them in slices, and put them in a stewpan,
with a quarter of a pound of the freshest butter. Set it in a stove to
simmer for an hour, covered up close; take the head, and with a knife
and fork pick all the fins you can get off the fish. Put this in a dish,
dredge it well with flour, and let it stand. Take all the bones of the
head and the remainder, and boil them on the fire for an hour, with an
English pint of water. Strain off the liquor through a sieve, and put it
to your onions; take a good large handful of parsley, well washed and
picked clean; chop it as fine as possible; put it in the soup; let it
just boil, otherwise it will make it yellow. Add a little cayenne
pepper, two spoonfuls of anchovy, a little soy, a little of any sort of
ketchup, and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Then put the fish that has
been set aside on the plate into the stewpan to the soup, and let it
simmer for ten minutes. If not thick enough add a small piece of butter
rolled in flour.

_Crawfish Soup._

Boil off your crawfish; take the tails out of the shells; roast a couple
of lobsters; beat these with your crawfish shells; put this into your
fish stock, with some crusts of French rolls. Rub the whole through a
tamis, and put your tails into it. You may farce a carp and put in the
middle, if you please, or farce some of the shells and stick on a French
roll.

_Crawfish, or Lobster Soup._

Take some middling and small fishes, and put them in a gallon of water,
with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, sweetherbs, and onions; boil them to
pieces, and strain them out of the liquor. Then take a large fish, cut
the flesh off one side, make forcemeat of it, and lay it on the fish;
dredge grated bread in it, and butter a dish well; put it in the oven
and bake it. Then take one hundred crawfish, break the shells of the
tails and claws, take out the meat as whole as you can; pound the shells
and add the spawn of a lobster pounded; put them into the soup, and, if
you like, a little veal gravy; give them a boil or two together. Strain
the liquor off into another saucepan, with the tops of French bread,
dried, beat fine, and sifted. Give it a boil to thicken; then brown some
butter, and put in the tails and claws of the crawfish, and some of the
forcemeat made into balls. Lay the baked fish in the middle of the dish,
pour the soup boiling hot on it; if you like, add yolks of eggs, boiled
hard, pounded, and mixed by degrees with the soup.

_Curry or Mulligatawny Soup._

Boil a large chicken or fowl in a pint of water till half done; add a
table-spoonful of curry powder, with the juice of one lemon and a half;
boil it again gently till the meat is done.

For a large party you must double the quantity of all the articles, and
always proportion the water to the quantity of gravy you think the meat
will yield.

_Eel Soup._

Take two pounds of eels; put to them two quarts of water, a crust of
bread, two or three blades of mace, some whole pepper, one onion, and a
bunch of sweet herbs. Cover them close, and let them stew till the
liquor is reduced to one half, and if the soup is not rich enough it
must boil till it is stronger.--Then strain it, toast some bread, and
cut it in small.

This soup will be as good as if meat were put into it. A pound of eels
makes a pint of soup.

_Fish Soup._

Stew the heads, tails, and fins, of any sort of flat fish or haddock.
Strain and thicken with a little flour and butter; add pepper, salt,
anchovy, and ketchup, to taste. Cut the fish in thick pieces, and let
them stew gently till done.

_French Soup._

Take the scrag end of a neck of mutton, or two pounds of any meat, and
make it into very strong broth; then take one large cabbage, three
lettuces, three carrots, one root of celery, and two onions; cut them
all small, and fry them with butter. Pour your broth upon your
vegetables a little at a time, cover it up close, and let it stew three
hours or more. Serve with the vegetables.

_Friar's Chicken._

Stew a knuckle of veal, a neck of mutton, a large fowl, two pounds of
giblets, two large onions, two bunches of turnips, one bunch of carrots,
a bunch of thyme, and another of sage, eight hours over a very slow
stove, till every particle of juice is extracted from the meat and
vegetables. Take it off the stove, pass it through a hair tamis; have
ready a pound of grated veal, or, what is better, of grated chicken,
with a large bunch of parsley, chopped very fine and mingled with it.
Put this into the broth; set it on the stove again, and while there
break four raw eggs into it. Stir the whole for about a quarter of an
hour and serve up hot.

_Giblet Soup._ No. 1.

Take the desired quantity of strong beef gravy; add to it a few slices
of veal fried in butter; take a piece of butter rolled in flour, and
with it fry some sliced onion and thyme; when made brown, add it to the
soup. When sufficiently stewed, strain and put to it two spoonfuls of
ketchup, a few spoonfuls of Madeira, and a little lemon juice. The
giblets being separately stewed in a pint of water, add their gravy to
the soup.

_Giblet Soup._ No. 2.

Parboil the giblets, and pour the water from them; put them into fresh
water or thin gravy, with a large onion stuck with cloves; season it to
your taste; boil them till the flesh comes from the bones. Mix the yolk
of an egg with flour into a paste; roll it two or three times over with
a rollingpin; cut it in pieces, and thicken the soup with it.

_Giblet Soup._ No. 3.

Take three pair of goose giblets; scald and cut them as for stewing; set
them on the fire in three quarts of water, and when the scum rises skim
them well: put in a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, and
allspice, tied in a bag, with some pepper and salt. Stew them very
gently till nearly tender: mix a quarter of a pound of butter with
flour, and put it in, with half a pint of white wine, and a little
cayenne pepper. Stew them till thick and smooth; take out the herbs and
spices; skim well; boil the livers in a quart of water till tender, and
put in. Serve up in a terrine or dish.

_Gravy Soup._ No. 1.

Put two pounds of gravy beef, cut in small pieces, with pepper, salt,
some whole pepper, and a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, into a
stewpan. When drawn to a good gravy, pour in three quarts of boiling
water; add some mace, four heads of celery, one carrot, and three or
four onions. Let them stew gently about an hour and a half; then strain;
add an ounce and half of vermicelli, and let it stew about ten minutes
longer.

_Gravy Soup._ No. 2.

Take two ox melts, cut them in pieces, season them with pepper and salt,
and dredge them with flour. Shred two large onions, fry them of a nice
brown colour, put them at the bottom of the saucepan with a piece of
butter. Take one ox rump, stew it with carrots and celery and twelve
allspice. Then put all together and strain well. This quantity will make
three quarts. You may send the ox rump to table in the soup, if
approved. Two carrots and two heads of celery will be sufficient.

_Gravy Soup._ No. 3.

Cut the lean part of a shin of beef, the same of a knuckle of veal, and
set the bones of both on the fire, in two gallons of water, to make
broth. Put the meat in a stewpan; add some lean bacon or ham, one
carrot, two turnips, two heads of celery, two large onions, a bunch of
sweet herbs, some whole pepper, two race of ginger, six cloves. Set
these over the fire, let it draw till all the gravy is dried up to a
nice brown; then add the broth that is made with the bones. Let it boil
slowly four or five hours. Make the soup the day before you want to use
it, that you may take the fat clean from the top, also the sediment from
the bottom. Have ready some turnips, carrots, and cabbage lettuces, cut
small, and one pint of young peas; add these to your soup; let it boil
one hour, and it will be ready, with salt to your taste.

_Hare Soup._

Skin the hare, and wash the inside well. Separate the limbs, legs,
shoulders, and back; put them into a stewpan, with two glasses of port
wine, an onion stuck with four cloves, a bundle of parsley, a little
thyme, some sweet basil and marjoram, a pinch of salt, and cayenne
pepper. Set the whole over a slow fire, and let it simmer for an hour;
then add a quart of beef gravy and a quart of veal gravy; let the whole
simmer gently till the hare is done. Strain the meat; then pass the
soup through a sieve, and put a penny roll to soak in the broth. Take
all the flesh of the hare from the bones, and pound it in a mortar, till
fine enough to be rubbed through a sieve, taking care that none of the
bread remains in it. Thicken the broth with the meat of the hare; rub it
all together till perfectly fine, like melted butter, not thicker; heat
it, and serve it up very hot. Be careful not to let it boil, as that
will spoil it.

_Another._

Half roast a good-sized hare; cut the back and legs in square pieces;
stew the remaining part with five pints of good broth, a bunch of sweet
herbs, three blades of mace, three large shalots, shred fine, two large
onions, one head of celery, one dozen white pepper, eight cloves, and a
slice of ham. Simmer the whole together three hours; then strain and rub
it through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon; return the gravy into a
stewpan; throw in the back and legs, and let it simmer three quarters of
an hour before you send it to table.

_Hessian Soup._

Take seven pints of water, one pint of split peas, one pound of lean
beef, cut into small slices, three quarters of a pound of potatoes,
three ounces of ground rice, two heads of celery, two onions, or leeks.
Season with pepper and salt, and dried mint, according to your taste.
Let it all boil slowly together till reduced to five pints.

_Another._

One pound of beef, one pint of split peas, three turnips, four ounces
ground rice, three potatoes, three onions, one head of celery, seven
pints of water. Boil till reduced to six pints; then strain it through a
hair sieve, with a little whole pepper.

_Mock Turtle Soup._ No. 1.

Take a calf's head, very white and very fresh, bone the nose part of it;
put the head into some warm water to discharge the blood; squeeze the
flesh with your hand to ascertain that it is all thoroughly out; blanch
the head in boiling water. When firm, put it into cold water, which
water must be prepared as follows: cut half a pound of fat bacon, a
pound of beef suet, an onion stuck with two cloves, two thick slices of
lemon; put these into a vessel, with water enough to contain the head;
boil the head in this, and take it off when boiled, leaving it to cool.
Then make your sauce in the following manner: put into a stewpan a pound
of ham cut into slices; put over the ham two knuckles of veal, two
large onions, and two carrots; moisten with some of the broth in which
you have boiled the head to half the depth of the meat only; cover the
stewpan, and set it on a slow fire to sweat through; let the broth
reduce to a good rich colour; turn up the meat for fear of burning. When
you have a very good colour, moisten with the whole remaining broth from
the head; season with a very large bundle of sweet herbs, sweet basil,
sweet marjoram, lemon-thyme, common thyme, two cloves, and a bay leaf, a
few allspice, parsley, and green onions and mushrooms. Let the whole
boil together for one hour; then drain it. Put into a stewpan a quarter
of a pound of very fresh butter, let it melt over a very slow fire; put
to this butter as much flour as it can receive till the flour has
acquired a very good brown colour; moisten this gradually with the broth
till you have employed it all; add half a bottle of good white wine; let
the sauce boil that the flour may be well done; take off all the scum
and fat; pass it through a sieve. Cut the meat off the calf's head in
pieces of about an inch square; put them to boil in the sauce; season
with salt, a little cayenne pepper, and lemon juice. Throw in some
forcemeat balls, made according to direction, and a few hard yolks of
eggs, and serve up hot.

_Mock Turtle._ No. 2.

Take a calf's head with the skin on; let it be perfectly well cleaned
and scalded, if it is sent otherwise from the butcher's. You should
examine and see that it is carefully done, and that it looks white and
clean, by raising the skin from the bone with a knife. Boil it about
twenty minutes; put it in cold water for about ten minutes; take the
skin clean from the flesh, and cut it in square pieces. Cut the tongue
out, and boil it until it will peel; then cut it in small pieces, and
put it all together. Line the bottom of a soup-pot with slices of ham, a
bay-leaf, a bunch of thyme, some other herbs, and an onion stuck with
six cloves. Cover all this with a slice of fat bacon, to keep the meat
from burning, dry it in a clean cloth, and lay it in the pot with salt,
cayenne pepper, and as much mace as will lie on a shilling: and cover
the meat over with the parings of the head, and some slices of veal. Add
to it a pint of good strong broth; put the cover over the pot as close
as possible, and let it simmer two hours. When the head is tender, make
the browning as follows: put into a stewpan a good quarter of a pound of
butter; as it boils, dredge in a very little flour, keeping it stirring,
and throw in by degrees an onion chopped very fine, a little thyme,
parsley, &c. picked, also chopped very fine. Put them in by degrees,
stirring all the time; then add a pint of good strong broth, a pint of
good Madeira wine, and all the liquor with your meat in the stewpot. Let
them boil all together, till the spirit of the wine is evaporated, for
that should not predominate. Add the juice of two or three large lemons;
then put in the head, tongue, &c.; skim the fat off as it rises. Dish it
very hot; add forcemeat balls and hard eggs, made thus: take six or
eight and boil them hard; then take the yolks, and pound them in a
mortar with a dust of flour, and half or more of a raw egg, (beaten up)
as you may judge sufficient. Rub it all to a paste; add a little salt;
then roll them into little eggs, and add them, with the forcemeat balls,
to the turtle when you dish it.

_Mock Turtle._ No. 3.

Neat's feet instead of calf's head; that is, two calf's feet and two
neat's feet.

_Mock Turtle._ No. 4.

Two neat's and two calf's feet cut into pieces an inch long, and put
into two quarts of strong mutton gravy, with a pint of Madeira. Take
three dozen oysters, four anchovies, two onions, some lemon-peel, and
mace, with a few sweet herbs; shred all very fine, with half a
tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and add them to the feet. Let all stew
together two hours and a quarter. Just before you send it to table, add
the juice of two small lemons, and put forcemeat balls and hard eggs to
it.

_Mulligatawny Soup._ No. 1.

Cut in pieces three fowls; reserve the best pieces of one of them for
the terrine; cut the remainder very small: add to them a pound of lean
ham, some garlic, bay-leaves, spices, whole mace, peppercorns, onions,
pickles of any kind that are of a hot nature, and about four
table-spoonfuls of good curry-powder. Cover the ingredients with four
quarts of strong veal stock, and boil them till the soup is well
flavoured: then strain that to the fowl you have reserved, which must be
fried with onions. Simmer the whole till quite tender, and serve it up
with plain boiled rice.

_Mulligatawny Soup._ No. 2.

Boil a knuckle of veal of about five pounds weight; let it stand till
cold; then strain, and fry it in a little butter. Strain the liquor, and
leave it till cold; take the fat off. Fry four onions brown in butter,
add four dessert spoonfuls of curry-powder, a little turmeric, a little
cayenne; put all these together in the soup. Let it simmer for two
hours, and if not then thick enough, add a little suet and flour, and
plain boiled rice to eat with it; and there should be a chicken or fowl,
half roasted, and cut up in small pieces, then fried in butter of a
light brown colour, and put into the soup instead of the veal, as that
is generally too much boiled.

_Mulligatawny Soup._ No. 3.

Have some good broth made, chiefly of the knuckle of veal: when cold
skim the fat off well, and pass the broth when in a liquid state through
the sieve. Cut a chicken or rabbit into joints, (chicken or turkey is
preferable to rabbit,) fry it well, with four or five middle-sized
onions shred fine; shake a table-spoonful of curry-powder over it, and
put it into the broth. Let it simmer three hours, and serve it up with a
seasoning of cayenne pepper.

_Onion Soup._ No. 1.

Take twelve large Spanish onions, slice and fry them in good butter. Let
them be done very brown, but not to burn, which they are apt to do when
they are fried. Put to them two quarts of boiling water, or weak veal
broth; pepper and salt to your taste. Let them stew till they are quite
tender and almost dissolved; then add crumbs of bread made crisp,
sufficient to make it of a proper thickness. Serve hot.

_Onion Soup._ No. 2.

Boil three pounds of veal with a handful of sweet herbs, and a little
mace; when well boiled strain it through a sieve, skim off all the fat.
Pare twenty-five onions; boil them soft, rub them through a sieve, and
mix them with the veal gravy and a pint of cream, salt, and cayenne
pepper, to your taste. Give it a boil and serve up; but do not put in
the cream till it comes off the fire.

_Onion Soup._ No. 3.

Take two quarts of strong broth made of beef; twelve onions; cut these
in four quarters, lay them in water an hour to soak. Brown four ounces
of butter, put the onions into it, with some pepper and salt, cover them
close, and let them stew till tender: cut a French loaf into slices, or
sippets, and fry them in fresh butter; put them into your dish, and boil
your onions and butter in your soup. When done enough, squeeze in the
juice of a lemon, and pour it into your dish with the fried sippets. You
may add poached eggs, if it pleases your palate.

_Ox Head Soup._

Bone the head and cut it in pieces; wash it extremely clean from the
blood; set it on the fire in three gallons of water. Put in a dozen
onions, eight turnips, six anchovies, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Let
all stew together very gently, till it is quite tender. Carefully skim
off all the fat as it boils, but do not stir it. Take cabbage lettuce,
celery, chervil, and turnips, all boiled tender and cut small; put them
into the soup, and let them boil all together half an hour.

_Another._

To half an ox's head put three gallons of water, and boil it three
hours. Clean and cut it small and fine; let it stew for an hour with one
pint of water, which must be put to it boiling; then add the three
gallons boiling.

_Green Pea Soup._ No. 1.

Take a knuckle of veal of about four pounds, chop it in pieces, and set
it on the fire in about six quarts of water, with a small piece of lean
ham, three or four blades of mace, the same of cloves, about two dozen
peppercorns, white and black, a small bundle of sweet herbs and parsley,
and a crust of French roll toasted crisp. Cover close, and let it boil
very gently over a slow fire till reduced to one half; then strain it
off, and add a full pint of young green peas, a fine lettuce, cut small,
four heads of celery, washed and cut small, about a quarter of a pound
of fresh butter made hot, with a very little flour dredged into it, and
some more lettuce cut small and thrown in. Just fry it a little; put it
into the soup; cover it close, and let it stew gently over a slow fire
two hours. Have a pint of old peas boiled in a pint of water till they
are very tender, then pulp them through a sieve; add it to the soup, and
let it all boil together, putting in a very little salt. There should be
two quarts. Toast or fry some crust of French roll in dice.

_Green Pea Soup._ No. 2.

Put one quart of old green peas into a gallon of water, with a bunch of
mint, a crust of bread, and two pounds of fresh meat of any sort. When
these have boiled gently for three hours, strain the pulp through a
colander; then fry spinach, lettuce, beet, and green onions, of each a
handful, not too small, in butter, and one pint of green peas, boiled;
pepper and salt. Mix all together, and let them just boil. The spinach
must not be fried brown, but kept green.

_Green Pea Soup._ No. 3.

Boil the shells of your youngest peas in water till all the sweetness is
extracted from them; then strain, and in that liquor boil your peas for
the soup, with whole pepper and salt. When boiled, put them through a
colander; have ready the young peas boiled by themselves; put a good
piece of butter in a frying-pan with some flour, and into that some
lettuce and spinach; fry it till it looks green, and put it into the
soup with the young peas. When the greens are tender, it is done enough.

_Green Pea Soup._ No. 4.

Boil a quart of old peas in five quarts of water, with one onion, till
they are soft; then work them through a sieve.--Put the pulp in the
water in which the peas were boiled, with half a pint of young peas, and
two cabbage lettuces, cut in slices; then let it boil half an hour;
pepper and salt, to your taste.--Add a small piece of butter, mixed with
flour, and one tea-spoonful of loaf sugar.

_Green Pea Soup._ No. 5.

Make a good stock for your soup of beef, mutton, and veal; season to
your palate; let it stand till cold, then take off all the fat. Take
some old peas, boil them in water, with a sprig of mint and a large
lettuce, strain them through a sieve; mix them with your soup till of
proper thickness. Then add three quarters of a pint of cream; simmer it
up together, and have ready half a pint of young peas, or asparagus,
ready boiled to throw in. If the soup is not of a fine green, pound some
spinach, and put in a little of the juice, but not too much.

_Green Pea Soup._ No. 6.

Take a quart of old peas, three or four cabbage lettuces, two heads of
celery, two leeks, one carrot, two or three turnips, two or three old
onions, and a little spinach that has been boiled; put them over the
fire with some good consommé, and let them do gently, till all are very
tender. Rub the whole through a tamis, or hair-sieve; put it in the pot.
Have about half a pint of very young peas, and the hearts of two cabbage
lettuces, cut fine and stewed down in a little broth. Put all together,
with a small faggot of mint, and let it boil gently, skimming it well.
When going to table, put into it fried bread, in dice, or crust of
French roll. This quantity will be sufficient for a terrine.

_Winter Pea Soup._

Take two quarts of old peas, a lettuce, a small bit of savoury, a
handful of spinach, a little parsley, a cucumber, a bit of hock of
bacon; stew all together till tender. Rub the whole through a colander;
add to it some good gravy, and a little cayenne or common pepper. These
quantities will be sufficient for a large terrine. Send it up hot with
fried bread.

_Pea Soup._ No. 1.

Take two pints of peas, one pound of bacon, two bunches of carrots and
onions, two bunches of parsley and thyme; moisten the whole with cold
water, and let them boil for four hours, adding more water to them if
necessary. When quite done, pound them in a mortar, and then rub them
through a sieve with the liquor in which they have been boiling. Add a
quart of the mixed jelly soup, boil it all together, and leave it on a
corner of the fire till served. It must be thick and smooth as melted
butter, and care taken throughout that it does not burn.

_Pea Soup._ No. 2.

Take about three or four pounds of lean beef; cut it in pieces and set
it on the fire in three gallons of water, with nearly one pound of ham,
a small bundle of sweet herbs, another of mint, and forty peppercorns.
Wash a bunch of celery clean, put in the green tops; then add a quart of
split peas. Cover it close, and let the whole boil gently till two parts
out of three are wasted. Strain it off, and work it through a colander;
put it into a clean saucepan with five or six heads of celery, washed
and cut very small; cover it close, and let it stew till reduced to
about three quarts: then cut some fat and lean bacon in dice, fry them
just crisp; do the same by some bread, and put both into the soup.
Season it with salt to your taste. When it is in the terrine, rub a
little dried mint over it. If you chuse it, boil an ox's palate tender,
cut it in dice, and put in, also forcemeat balls.

_Pea Soup._ No. 3.

To a quart of split peas put three quarts of water, two good turnips,
one large head of celery, four onions, one blade of ginger, one spoonful
of flour of mustard, and a small quantity of cayenne, black pepper, and
salt. Let it boil over a slow fire till it is reduced to two quarts;
then work it through a colander with a wooden spoon. Set it on the fire,
and let it boil up; add a quarter of a pound of butter mixed with flour;
beat up the yolks of three eggs, and stir it well in the soup. Gut a
slice of bread into small dice; fry them of a light brown; put them into
your soup-dish, and pour the soup over them.

_Pea Soup._ No. 4.

Boil one onion and one quart of peas in three quarts of water till they
are soft; then work them through a hair sieve. Mix the pulp with the
water in which the peas were boiled; set it over the fire and let it
boil; add two cabbage lettuces, cut in slices, half a pint of young
peas, and a little salt. Let it boil quickly half an hour; mix a little
butter and flour, and boil in the soup.

_Portable Soup._

Strip all the skin and fat off a leg of veal; then cut all the fleshy
parts from the bone, and add a shin of beef, which treat in the same
way; boil it slowly in three gallons of water or more according to the
quantity of the meat; let the pot be closely covered: when you find it,
in a spoon, very strong and clammy, like a rich jelly, take it off and
strain it through a hair sieve into an earthen pan. After it is
thoroughly cold, take off any fat that may remain, and divide your jelly
clear of the bottom into small flatfish cakes in chinaware cups covered.
Then place these cups in a large deep stewpan of boiling water over a
stove fire, where let it boil gently till the jelly becomes a perfect
glue; but take care the water does not get into the cups, for that will
spoil it all. These cups of glue must be taken out, and, when cold, turn
out the glue into a piece of new coarse flannel, and in about six hours
turn it upon more fresh flannel, and keep doing this till it is
perfectly dry--if you then lay it by in a dry warm place, it will
presently become like a dry piece of glue. When you use it in
travelling, take a piece the size of a large walnut, seasoning it with
fresh herbs, and if you can have an old fowl, or a very little bit of
fresh meat, it will be excellent.

_Potato Soup._

Five large carrots, two turnips, three large mealy potatoes, seven
onions, three heads of celery; slice them all thin, with a handful of
sweet herbs; put them into one gallon of water, with bones of beef, or a
piece of mutton; let them simmer gently till the vegetables will pulp
through a sieve. Add cayenne pepper, salt, a pint of milk, or half a
pint of cream, with a small piece of butter beaten up with flour.

_Rabbit Soup._

One large rabbit, one pound of lean ham, one onion, one turnip, and some
celery, two quarts of water; let them boil till the rabbit is tender.
Strain off the liquor; boil a pint of cream, and add it to the best part
of the rabbit pounded; if not of the thickness you wish, add some flour
and butter, and rub it through a sieve. It must not be boiled after the
cream is added.

_Root Soup._

Potatoes, French turnips, English turnips, carrots, celery, of each six
roots; pare and wash them; add three or four onions; set them on the
fire with the bones of a rump of beef, or, if you have no such thing,
about two pounds of beef, or any other beef bones. Chop them up, and put
them on the fire with water enough to cover them; let them stew very
gently till the roots are all tender enough to rub through a sieve. This
done, cut a few roots of celery small, and put it to the strained soup.
Season it with pepper and salt, and stew it gently till the celery is
tender; then serve it with toast or fried bread. A bundle of herbs may
be boiled in it, just to flavour it, and then taken out.

_Scotch Leek Soup._

You make this soup to most advantage the day after a leg of mutton has
been boiled, into the liquor from which put four large leeks, cut in
pieces. Season with pepper and salt, and let it boil gently for a
quarter of an hour. Mix half a pint of oatmeal with cold water till
quite smooth; pour this into the soup; let it simmer gently half an hour
longer; and serve it up.

_To brown or colour Soup._

To brown soup, take two lumps of loaf-sugar in an iron spoon; let it
stand on the stove till it is quite black, and put it into soup.

_Seasoning for Soups and Brown Sauces._

Salt a bullock's liver, pressing it thoroughly with a great weight for
four days. Take ginger and every sort of spice that is used to meat, and
half a pound of brown sugar, a good quantity of saltpetre, and a pound
of juniper-berries. Rub the whole in thoroughly, and let it lie six
weeks in the liquor, boiling and skimming every three days, for an hour
or two, till the liver becomes as hard as a board. Then steep it in the
smoke liquor that is used for hams, and afterwards hang it up to smoke
for a considerable time. When used, cut slices as thin as a wafer, and
stew them down with the jelly of which you make your sauce or soup, and
it will give a delightful flavour.

_Soup._ No. 1.

A quarter of a pound of portable soup, that is, one cake, in two quarts
of boiling water; vegetables to be stewed separately, and added after
the soup is dissolved.

_Soup._ No. 2.

Take a piece of beef about a stone weight, and a knuckle of veal, eight
or ten onions, a bunch of thyme and parsley, an ounce of allspice, ten
cloves, some whole pepper and salt; boil all these till the meat is all
to pieces. Strain and take off the fat. Make about a quart of brown beef
gravy with some of your broth; then take half a pound of butter and a
good handful of flour mixed together, put it into a stewpan, set it
over a slow fire, keeping it stirring till very brown; have ready what
herbs you design for your soup, either endive or celery; chop them, but
not too small; if you wish for a fine soup add a palate and sweetbreads,
the palate boiled tender, and the sweetbreads fried, and both cut into
small pieces. Put these, with herbs, into brown butter; put in as much
of your broth as you intend for your soup, which must be according to
the size of your dish. Give them a boil or two, then put in a quart of
your gravy, and put all in a pot, with a fowl, or what you intend to put
in your dish. Cover it close, and, let it boil an hour or more on a slow
fire. Should it not be seasoned enough, add more salt, or what you think
may be necessary: a fowl, or partridge, or squab pigeons, are best
boiled in soup and to lie in the dish with it.

_Soup._ No. 3.

Cut three pounds of beef and one pound of veal in slices and beat it.
Put half a pound of butter and a piece of bacon in your pan, brown it,
and sprinkle in half a spoonful of flour. Cut two onions in; add pepper
and salt, a bit of mace, and some herbs, then put in your meat, and fry
it till it is brown on both sides. Have in readiness four quarts of
boiling water, and a saucepan that will hold both water and what is in
your frying-pan. Cover it close; set it over a slow fire and stew it
down, till it is wasted to about five pints; then strain it off, and add
to it what soup-herbs you like, according to your palate. Celery and
endive must be first stewed in butter; and peas and asparagus first
boiled, and well drained from the butter, before you put it to the soup.
Stew it some time longer, and skim off all the fat; then take a French
roll, which put in your soup-dish; pour in your soup, and serve it up.
Just before you take it off the fire, squeeze in the juice of a lemon.

If veal alone is used, and fowl or chicken boiled in it and taken out
when enough done, and the liquor strained, and the fowl or chicken put
to the clear liquor, with vermicelli, you will have a fine white soup;
and the addition of the juice of a lemon is a great improvement.

The French cooks put in chervil and French turnips, lettuce, sorrel,
parsley, beets, a little bit of carrot, a little of parsnips, this last
must not boil too long--all to be strained off: to be sent up with
celery, endive (or peas) or asparagus, and stuffed cucumbers.

_Soup without Meat._

Take two quarts of water, a little pepper, salt, and Jamaica pepper, a
blade of mace, ten or twelve cloves, three or four onions, a crust of
bread, and a bunch of sweet herbs; boil all these well. Take the white
of two or three heads of endive, chopped, but not too small. Put three
quarters of a pound of butter in a stewpan that will be large enough to
hold all your liquor. Set it on a quick fire till it becomes very brown;
then put a little of your liquor to prevent its turning, or oiling;
shake in as much flour as will make it rather thick; then put in the
endive and an onion shred small, stirring it well. Strain all your
liquor, and put it to the butter and herbs; let it stew over a slow fire
almost an hour. Dry a French roll, and let it remain in it till it is
soaked through, and lay it in your dish with the soup. You may make this
soup with asparagus, celery, or green peas, but they must be boiled
before you put them to the burnt butter.

_Soup for the Poor._

Eight pails of water, two quarts of barley, four quarts of split peas,
one bushel of potatoes, half a bushel of turnips, half a bushel of
carrots, half a peck of onions, one ounce of pepper, two pounds of salt,
an ox's head, parsley, herbs, boiled six hours, produce one hundred and
thirty pints. Boil the meat and take off the first scum before the other
ingredients are put in.

_Another._

To feed one hundred and thirty persons, take five quarts of Scotch
barley, one quart of Scotch oatmeal, one bushel of potatoes, a bullock's
head, onions, &c., one pound and half of salt.

_Soup and Bouilli_

may be made of ox-cheek, stewed gently for some hours, and well skimmed
from the fat, and again when cold. Small suet dumplings are added when
heated for table as soup.

_Soupe à la Reine, or Queen's Soup._

Soak a knuckle of veal and part of a neck of mutton in water; put them
in a pot with liquor, carrots, turnips, thyme, parsley, and onions. Boil
and scum it; then season with a head or two of celery; boil this down;
take half a pound of blanched almonds, and beat them; take two fowls,
half roasted, two sweetbreads set off; beat these in a mortar, put them
in your stock, with the crumbs of two French rolls; then rub them
through a tamis and serve up.

_Another._

For a small terrine take about three quarters of a pound of almonds;
blanch, and pound them very fine. Cut up a fowl, leaving the breast
whole, and stew in consommé. When the breast is tender, take it out,
(leaving the other parts to stew with the consommé) pound it well with
the almonds and three hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and take it out of the
mortar. Strain the consommé, and put it, when the fat is skimmed off, to
the almonds, &c. Have about a quarter of a pint of Scotch barley boiled
very tender, add it to the other ingredients, put them into a pot with
the consommé, and stir it over the fire till it is boiling hot and well
mixed. Rub it through a tamis, and season it with a little salt; it must
not boil after being rubbed through.

_Soupe Maigre._ No. 1.

Take the white part of eight loaved lettuces, cut them as small as dice,
wash them and strain them through a sieve. Pick a handful of purslain
and half a handful of parsley, wash and drain them. Cut up six large
cucumbers in slices about the thickness of a crown-piece. Peel and mince
four large onions, and have in readiness three pints of young green
peas. Put half a pound of fresh butter into your stewpan; brown it of a
high colour, something like that of beef gravy. Put in two ounces of
lean bacon cut clean from the rind, add all your herbs, peas, and
cucumbers, and thirty corns of whole pepper; let these stew together for
ten minutes; keep stirring to prevent burning. Put one gallon of boiling
water to a gallon of small broth, and a French roll cut into four pieces
toasted of a fine yellow brown. Cover your stewpan, and let it again
stew for two hours. Add half a drachm of beaten mace, one clove beaten,
and half a grated nutmeg, and salt to your taste. Let it boil up, and
squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Send it to table with all the bread and
the herbs that were stewed in it.

_Soupe Maigre._ No. 2.

Take of every vegetable you can get, excepting cabbage, in such quantity
as not to allow any one to predominate; cut them small and fry them
brown in butter; add a little water, and thicken with flour and butter.
Let this stew three hours very gently; and season to your taste. The
French add French rolls.

_Soupe Maigre._ No. 3.

Half a pound of butter, put in a stewpan over the fire, and let it
brown. Cut two or three onions in slices, two or three heads of celery,
two handfuls of spinach, a cabbage, two turnips, a little parsley, three
cabbage lettuces, a little spice, pepper and salt. Stew all these about
half an hour; then add about two quarts of water, and let it simmer till
all the roots are tender. Put in the crust of a French roll, and send
it to table.

_Soupe Maigre._ No. 4.

Cut three carrots, three turnips, three heads of celery, three leeks,
six onions, and two cabbage lettuces in small pieces; put them in your
stewpan with a piece of butter, the size of an egg, a pint of dried or
green peas, and two quarts of water, with a little pepper and salt.
Simmer the whole over the fire till tender; then rub it through a sieve
or tamis; add some rice, and let it simmer an hour before you serve it
up.

_Soupe Maigre._ No. 5.

Take three carrots, three turnips, three heads of celery, three leeks,
six onions, two cabbage lettuces; cut them all in small pieces, and put
them in your stewpan, with a piece of butter about the size of an egg,
and a pint of dried or green peas, and two quarts of water. Simmer them
over the fire till tender, then rub through a sieve or tamis. Add some
rice, and let it simmer an hour before you serve it up.

_Soupe Santé, or Wholesome Soup._

Take beef and veal cut in thin slices; put sliced turnips, carrots,
onions, bacon, in the bottom of your stewpan; lay your meat upon these,
and over it some thin thyme, parsley, a head or two of celery. Cover the
whole down; set it over a charcoal fire; draw it down till it sticks to
the bottom; then fill up with the above stock. Let it boil slowly till
the goodness is extracted from your meat; then strain it off. Cut and
wash some celery, endive, sorrel, a little chervil, spinach, and a piece
of leek; put these in a stewpan, with a bit of butter. Stew till tender,
then put this in your soup; give it a boil up together, and skim the fat
off. Cut off the crust of French rolls; dry and soak them in some of
your soup; put them into it, and serve your soup.

_Spanish Soup._

Put the scrag end of a neck of veal, two calves' feet, two pounds of
fresh beef, one old fowl, into a pot well tinned, with six quarts of
water, and a little salt, to raise the scum, which must be very
carefully taken off. Let these boil very gently two hours and a half,
till the water is reduced to four quarts; then take out all the meat,
strain the broth, and put to it a small quantity of pepper, mace,
cloves, and cinnamon, finely pounded, with four or five cloves of
garlic. A quarter of an hour afterwards add eight or ten ounces of rice,
with six ounces of ham or bacon, and a drachm of saffron put into a
muslin bag. Observe to keep it often stirred after the rice is in, till
served up. It will be ready an hour and a half after the saffron is in.
You should put a fowl into it an hour before it is ready, and serve it
up whole in the soup.

This soup will keep two or three days.

_Turnip Soup._

Make a good strong gravy of beef or mutton; let it stand till cold; take
off all the fat; pare some turnips and slice them thin; stew them till
tender, then strain them through a sieve; mix the pulp with the gravy,
till of a proper thickness:--then add three quarters of a pint of cream;
boil it up, and send it to table.

_Veal Soup._

Take a knuckle of veal, and chop it into small pieces; set it on the
fire with four quarts of water, pepper, mace, a few herbs, and one large
onion. Stew it five or six hours; then strain off the spice, and put in
a pint of green peas until tender. Take out the small bones, and send
the rest up with the soup.

_Vegetable Soup._ No. 1.

Take a quart of beef jelly and the same quantity of veal jelly: boil it,
have some carrots and turnips, cut small, previously boiled in a little
of the jelly; throw them in, and serve it up hot.

_Vegetable Soup._ No. 2.

Take two cabbage and two coss lettuces, one hard cabbage, six onions,
one large carrot, two turnips, three heads of celery, a little tarragon,
chervil, parsley, and thyme, chopped fine, and a little flour fried in a
quarter of a pound of butter (or less will do). Then add three quarts of
boiling water; boil it for two hours, stir it well, and add, before
sending it to table, some crumbs of stale bread: the upper part of the
loaf is best.

_Vegetable Soup._ No. 3.

Let a quantity of dried peas (split peas), or haricots, (lentils) be
boiled in common water till they are quite tender; let them then be
gradually passed through a sieve with distilled water, working the
mixture with a wooden spoon, to make what the French call a _puré_: and
let it be made sufficiently liquid with distilled water to bear boiling
down. Then let a good quantity of fresh vegetables, of any or all kinds
in their season, especially carrots, lettuces, turnips, celery, spinach,
with always a few onions, be cut into fine shreds, and put it into
common boiling water for three or four minutes to blanch; let them then
be taken out with a strainer, added to and mixed with the _puré_, and
the whole set to boil gently at the fire for at least two hours. A few
minutes before taking the soup from the fire, let it be seasoned to the
taste with pepper and salt.

The soup, when boiling gently at the fire, should be very frequently
stirred, to prevent its sticking to the side of the pan, and acquiring a
burnt taste.

_Vegetable Soup._ No. 4.

Cut two potatoes, one turnip, two heads of celery, two onions, one
carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs; put them all into a stewpan; cover
close; draw them gently for twenty minutes, then put two quarts of good
broth, let it boil gently, and afterwards simmer for two hours. Strain
through a fine sieve; put it into your pan again; season with pepper and
salt, and let it boil up.

_Vegetable Soup._ No. 5.

Take four turnips, two potatoes, three onions, three heads of celery,
two carrots, four cabbage lettuces, a bunch of sweet herbs, and parsley.
The vegetables must be cut in slices; put them into a stewpan, with half
a pint of water; cover them close; set them over the fire for twenty
minutes to draw; add three pints of broth or water, and let it boil
quickly. When the vegetables are tender rub them through a sieve. If you
make the soup with water, add butter, flour, pepper, and salt. Let it be
of the thickness of good cream, and add some fine crumbs of bread with
small dumplings.

_Vermicelli Soup._

Break the vermicelli a little, throw it into boiling water, and let it
boil about two minutes. Strain it in a sieve, and throw it into cold
water: then strain and put it into a good clear consommé, and let it
boil very slowly about a quarter of an hour. When it is going to table,
season with a little salt, and put into it a little crust of French
roll.

_West India Soup, called Pepper Pot._

A small knuckle of veal and a piece of beef of about three pounds, seven
or eight pounds of meat in all; potherbs as for any other soup. When the
soup is skimmed and made, strain it off. The first ingredient you add to
the soup must be some dried ocre (a West India vegetable), the quantity
according to your judgment. It is hard and dry, and therefore requires
a great deal of soaking and boiling. Then put in the spawn of the
lobsters you intend for your soup, first pounding it very fine, and
mixing it by degrees with a little of your soup cooled, or it will be
lumpy, and not so smooth as it should be. Put it into the soup-pot, and
continue to stir some time after it is in. Take about two middling
handfuls of spinach and about six hearts of the inside of very nice
greens; scald both greens and spinach before you put them to the soup,
to take off the rawness; the greens require most scalding. Squeeze them
quite dry, chop and put them into the soup; then add all the fat and
inside egg and spawn you can get from the lobsters, also the meat out of
the tails and claws. Add the green tops only of a large bundle of
asparagus, of the sort which they call sprew-grass, previously scalded;
a few green peas also are very good. After these ingredients are in, the
soup should no more than simmer; and when the herbs are sufficiently
tender it is done enough. This soup is not to be clear, on the contrary
thick with the lobster, and a perfect mash with the lobster and greens.
You are to put in lobster to your liking; I generally put in five or
six, at least of that part of them which is called fat, egg, and inside
spawn, sufficient to make it rich and good. It should look quite yellow
with this. Put plenty of the white part also, and in order that none of
the goodness of the lobsters should be lost, take the shells of those
which you have used, bruise them in a mortar, and boil them in some of
the broth, to extract what goodness remains; then strain off the liquor
and add it to the rest. Scoop some potatoes round, half boiling them
first, and put into it. Season with red pepper. Put in a piece of nice
pickled pork, which must be first scalded, for fear of its being too
salt; stew it with the rest and serve it.

_White Soup._ No. 1.

Take two chickens; skin them; take out the lungs and wash them
thoroughly; put them in a stewpan with some parsley. Add a quart of veal
jelly, and stew them in this for one hour over a very slow fire. Then
take out the chickens, and put a penny roll to soak in the liquor; take
all the flesh of the chickens from the bones, and pound it in a mortar,
with the yolk of three eggs boiled hard. Add the bread (when soaked
enough) and pound it also with them; then rub the whole finely through a
sieve. Add a quart more jelly to the soup, and strain it through a
sieve; then put the chicken to the soup. Set a quart of cream on the
fire till it boils, stirring it all the time; when ready to serve, pour
that into the soup and mix it well together. Have ready a little
vermicelli, boiled in a little weak broth, to throw into the soup, when
put into the terrine.

_White Soup._ No. 2.

Have good stock made of veal and beef; then take about a pound of veal,
and the like quantity of ham, cut both into thin slices, and put them
into a stewpan, with a pint of water and two onions cut small. Set it on
the fire and stew it down gently, till it is quite dry, and of a rather
light brown colour; then add the stock, and let it all stew till the
veal and ham are quite tender. Strain it off into the stewpot; add a
gill or more of cream, some blanched rice boiled tender, the quantity to
your own judgment, the yolks of six eggs beaten up well with a little
new milk: let the soup be boiling hot before the eggs are added, which
put to it by degrees, keeping it stirring over a slow fire. Serve it
very hot: to prevent curdling, put the soup-pot into a large pot of
boiling water, taking care that not the least drop of water gets in, and
so make it boiling hot.

_White Soup._ No. 3.

Cut one pound of veal, or half a fowl, into small pieces; put to it a
few sweet herbs, a crust of bread, an ounce of pearl barley well washed.
Set it over a slow fire, closely covered; let it boil till half is
consumed; then strain it and take off the fat. Have ready an ounce of
sweet almonds blanched, pound them in a marble mortar, adding a little
soup to prevent their oiling. Mix all together. When you send it up, add
one third of new milk or cream, salt and pepper to taste.

_White Soup._ No. 4.

Take a knuckle of veal, and put water according to the quantity of soup
you require; let it boil up and skim it; then put in three ounces of
lean bacon or ham, with two heads of celery, one carrot, one turnip, two
onions, and three or four blades of mace, and boil for three or four
hours. When properly boiled, strain it off, taking care to skim off all
the fat; then put into it two ounces of rice, well boiled, half a pint
of cream beaten up, and five or six yolks of eggs. When ready to serve,
pour the soup to the eggs backward and forward to prevent it from
curdling, and send it to table. You must boil the soup once after you
add the cream, and before you put it to the eggs. Three laurel leaves
put into it in summer and six in winter make a pleasant addition,
instead of sweet almonds.

_White Soup._ No. 5.

Make your stock with veal and chicken, and beat half a pound of almonds
in a mortar very fine, with the breast of a fowl. Put in some white
broth, and strain off. Stove it gently, and poach eight eggs, and lay in
your soup, with a French roll in the middle, filled with minced chicken
or veal, and serve very hot.

_White Soup._ No. 6.

Take a knuckle of veal; stew it with celery, herbs, slices of ham, and a
little cayenne and white pepper; season it to your taste. When it is
cleared off, add one pound of sweet almonds, a pint of cream, and the
yolks of eight eggs, boiled hard and finely bruised. Mix these all
together in your soup; let it just boil, and send it up hot. You may add
a French roll; let it be nicely browned.

The ingredients here mentioned will make four quarts.

_White Soup._ No. 7.

Stock from a boiled knuckle of veal, thickened with about two ounces of
sweet almonds, beaten to a paste, with a spoonful of water to prevent
their oiling; a large slice of dressed veal, and a piece of crumb of
bread, soaked in good milk, pounded and rubbed through a sieve; a bit of
fresh lemon-peel and a blade of mace in the finest powder. Boil all
together about half an hour, and stir in about a pint of cream without
boiling.

BROTHS.

_Broth for the Poor._

A good wholesome broth may be made at a very reasonable rate to feed the
poor in the country. The following quantities would furnish a good meal
for upwards of fifty persons.

Take twenty pounds of the very coarse parts of beef, five pounds of
whole rice, thirteen gallons of water; boil the meat in the water first,
and skim it very well; then put in the rice, some turnips, carrots,
leeks, celery, thyme, parsley, and a good quantity of potatoes; add a
good handful of salt, and boil them all together till tender.

_Another._

Four hundred quarts of good broth for the poor may be made as
follows:--Good beef, fifty pounds weight; beeves' cheeks, and legs of
beef, five; rice, thirty pounds; peas, twenty-three quarts; black
pepper, five ounces and a half; cayenne pepper, half an ounce; ground
ginger, two ounces; onions, thirteen pounds; salt, seven pounds and a
half; with celery, leeks, carrots, dried mint, and any other vegetable.

_Broth for the Sick._ No. 1.

Boil one ounce of very lean veal, fifteen minutes in a little butter,
and then add half a pint of water; set it over a very slow fire, with a
spoonful of barley and a piece of gum arabic about the size of a nut.

_Broth for the Sick._ No. 2.

Put a leg of beef and a scrag of mutton cut in pieces into three or four
gallons of water, and let them boil twelve hours, occasionally stirring
them well; and cover close. Strain the broth, and let it stand till it
will form a jelly; then take the fat from the top and the dross from the
bottom.

_Broth for the sick._ No. 3.

Take twelve quarts of water, two knuckles of veal, a leg of beef, or two
shins, four calves' feet, a chicken, a rabbit, two onions, cloves,
pepper, salt, a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover close, and let the whole
boil till reduced to six quarts. Strain and keep it for use.

_Barley Broth._

Take four or five pounds of the lean end of a neck of mutton, soak it
well in cold water for some time, then put it in a saucepan with about
four quarts of water and a tea-cupful of fine barley. Just before it
boils take it off the fire and skim it extremely well; put in salt and
pepper to your taste, and a small bundle of sweet herbs, which take out
before the broth is sent up. Then let it boil very gently for some hours
afterwards; add turnips, carrots, and onions, cut in small pieces, and
continue to boil the broth till the vegetables are quite done and very
tender. When nearly done it requires to be stirred frequently lest the
barley should adhere.

_Another._

Put on whatever bones you have; stew them down well with a little whole
pepper, onions, and herbs. When done, strain it off, and next day take
off all the fat. Take a little pearl barley, boil it a little and strain
it off; put it to the broth, add a coss lettuce, carrot, and turnip, cut
small. Boil all together some time, and serve it up.

_Chervil Broth for Cough._

Boil a calf's liver and two large handfuls of chervil in four quarts of
spring water till reduced to one quart. Strain it, and take a
coffee-cupful night and morning.

_Hodge-Podge._

Stew a scrag of mutton: put in a peck of peas, a bunch of turnips cut
small, a few carrots, onions, lettuce, and some parsley. When
sufficiently boiled add a few mutton chops, which must stew gently till
done.

_Leek Porridge._

Peel twelve leeks; boil them in water till tender; take them out and put
them into a quart of new milk; boil them well; thicken up with oatmeal,
and add salt according to the taste.

_Madame de Maillet's Broth._

Two ounces of veal, six carrots, two turnips, one table-spoonful of gum
arabic, one table-spoonful of rice, two quarts of water; simmer for
about two hours.

_Mutton Broth._

The bone of a leg of mutton to be chopped small, and put into the
stewpan with vegetables and herbs, together with a little drop of water,
and drawn as gravy soup; add boiling water.

_Pork Broth._

Take a leg of pork fresh cut up; beat it and break the bone; put it into
three gallons of soft water, with half an ounce of mace and the same
quantity of nutmeg. Let it boil very gently over a slow fire, until two
thirds of the water are consumed. Strain the broth through a fine sieve,
and when it is cold take off the fat. Drink a large cupful in the
morning fasting, and between meals, and just before going to bed,
warmed. Season it with a little salt. This is a fine restorative.

_Potage._

Boil a leg of beef, and a knuckle of veal, with a bunch of sweet herbs,
a little mace and whole pepper, and a handful of salt. When the meat is
boiled to rags or to a very strong broth, strain it through a hair
sieve, and when it is cold, take off the fat. With raw beef make a gravy
thus: cut your beef in pieces, put them in a frying-pan with a piece of
butter or a slice of bacon, fry it very brown, then put it to some of
your strong broth, and when it grows browner and thick till it becomes
reduced to three pints of gravy, fill up your strong broth to boil with
a piece of butter and a handful of sweet herbs. Afterwards a chicken
must be boiled and blanched and cut in slices; and two or three
sweetbreads fried very brown; a turnip also sliced and fried. Boil all
these half an hour, and put them in the dish in which you intend to
serve up, with three French rolls (cut in halves) and set it over a fire
with a quart of your gravy, and some of your broth, covered with a dish,
till it boils very fast, and as it reduces fill up with your broth till
your bread is quite soaked. You may put into the dish either a duck,
pigeon, or any bird you please; but whichever you choose, roast it
first, and then let it boil in the dish with your bread. This may be
made a pea soup, by only rubbing peas through a sieve.

_Scotch Pottage._

Place a tin saucepan on the fire with some boiling water; stir in Scotch
oatmeal till it is of the desired consistence: when done, pour it in a
basin and add milk or cream to it. It is more nutritious to make it of
milk instead of water, if the stomach will bear it. The Scotch peasantry
live entirely on this strengthening food. The best Scotch oatmeal is to
be bought at Dudgeon's, in the Strand.

_Scotch Broth._

Boil very tender a piece of thin brisket of beef, with trimmings of any
other meat, or a piece of gravy beef; cut it into square pieces; strain
off the broth and put it in a soup-pot; add the beef, cut in squares,
with plenty of carrots, turnips, celery, and onions, cut in shapes and
well boiled before put to the broth, and, if liked, some very small suet
dumplings first boiled. Season it to your palate.

_Turnip Broth._

Have a sufficient quantity of good strong broth as for any other soup,
taking care that it is not too strongly flavoured by any of the roots
introduced into it. Peel a good quantity of the best turnips, selecting
such as are not bitter. Sweat them in butter and a little water till
they are quite tender. Rub them through a tamis, mix them with the
broth; boil it for about half an hour. Add half a pint of very good
cream, and be careful not to have too fierce a fire, as it is apt to
burn.

_Another._

Put one pound of lean veal, pulled into small pieces in a pipkin, with
two large or three middling turnips. Cover the pipkin very close, to
prevent water from getting into it; set it in a pot of water, and let it
boil for two or three hours. A tea-cupful of the broth produced in the
pipkin may be taken twice or thrice a day.

_Veal Broth._ No. 1.

Take ten or twelve knuckles, such as are cut off from legs and shoulders
of mutton, at the very shank; rub them with a little salt, put them in a
pan of water for two or three hours, and wash them very clean; boil them
in a gallon of spring water for an hour. Strain them very clean, then
put in two ounces of hartshorn shavings, and the bottom crust of a penny
loaf; let it boil till the water is reduced to about three pints; strain
it off, and when cold skim off the fat. Take half a pint warm before you
rise, and the same in bed at night. Make it fresh three times a week in
summer, and twice a week in winter: do not put in any lamb bones. This
is an excellent thing.

_Veal Broth._ No. 2.

Soak a knuckle of veal for an hour in cold water; put it into fresh
water over the fire, and, as the scum rises, take it off; let it stew
gently for two hours, with a little salt to make the scum rise. When it
is sufficiently stewed, strain the broth from the meat. Put in some
vermicelli; keep the meat hot; and as you are going to put the soup into
the terrine add half a pint of cream.

_Veal Broth._ No. 3.

Take one pound of lean veal, one blade of mace, two table-spoonfuls of
rice, one quart of water; let it boil slowly two hours; add a little
salt.

_Veal Broth._ No. 4.--_Excellent for a Consumption._

Boil a knuckle of veal in a gallon of water; skim and put to it half a
pound of raisins of the sun, stoned, and the bottoms of two manchets,
with a nutmeg and a half sliced, and a little hartshorn. Let it boil
till reduced to half the quantity; then pound it all together and
strain. Add some brown sugar-candy, some rose-water, and also the juice
of a lemon, if the patient has no cough.

FISH.

_Carp and Tench._

Scale the fish, take out the gut and gall; save all the blood. Split the
carp if large; cut it in large pieces, and salt it. Boil some sliced
parsley roots and onions tender in half a pint of water, adding a little
cayenne pepper, ginger, cloves, and allspice, a lemon sliced, a little
vinegar, and moist sugar, one glass of red wine, and some butter rolled
in flour. Then put in the fish, and let it boil very fast for half an
hour in a stewpan. The blood is to be put in the sauce.

_Carp, to stew._

Scale, gut, and cleanse them; save the roes and milts; stew them in some
good broth: season, to your taste, with a bundle of herbs, onions,
anchovies, and white wine; and, when they are stewed enough, thicken the
sauce with the yolks of five eggs. Pass off the roes, dip them in yolk
of egg and flour, and fry them with some sippets of French bread; then
fry a little parsley, and, when you serve up, garnish the dish with the
roes, parsley, and sippets.

_Another way._

Have your carp fresh out of the water; scale and gut them, washing the
blood out of each fish with a little claret; and save that after so
doing. Cut your carp in pieces, and stew in a little fresh butter, a few
blades of mace, winter savory, a little thyme, and three or four onions;
after stewing awhile, take them out, put them by, and fold them up in
linen, till the liquor is ready to receive them again, as the fish would
otherwise be boiled to pieces before the liquor was reduced to a proper
thickness. When you have taken out your fish, put in the claret that you
washed out the blood with, and a pint of beef or mutton gravy,
according to the quantity of your fish, with some salt and the butter in
which you stewed the carp; and when this butter is almost boiled to a
proper thickness put in your fish again; stew all together, and serve it
up. Two spoonfuls of elder vinegar to the liquor when taken up will give
a very agreeable taste.

_Cod, to stew._

Cut a cod into thin pieces or slices; lay them in rows at the bottom of
a dish; put in a pint of white wine, half a pound of butter, a few
oysters, with their liquor, a little pepper and salt, with some crumbs
of bread. Stew them all till they are done enough. Garnish the dish with
lemon.

_Cod, Ragout of._

Wash the cod clean, and boil it in warm water, with vinegar, pepper,
salt, a bay-leaf, and lemon. Make a sauce of burnt butter, fried flour,
capers, and oysters. When you serve it up put in some black pepper and
lemon-juice.

_Cod's Head, to boil._

Take vinegar and salt, a bunch of sweet herbs, and an onion; set them on
the fire in a kettle of water; boil them and put in the head; and, while
it is boiling, put in cold water and vinegar. When boiled, take it up,
put it into a dish, and make sauce as follows:--Take gravy and claret,
boiled with a bundle of sweet herbs and an onion, two or three
anchovies, drawn with two pounds of butter, a pint of shrimps, oysters,
the meat of a lobster shred fine. You may stick little toasts on the
head, and lay on and about the roe, milt, and liver. Garnish the dish
with fried parsley, lemon, barberries, horseradish, and fried fish.

_Crab, to dress._

Take all the body and the meat of the legs, and put them together in a
dish to heat, with a little broth or gravy, just to make them moist.
When hot, have ready some good broth or gravy, with an anchovy dissolved
in it, and the juice of a small lemon, heated; afterwards thicken it up
with butter, and stir it in the crab, as it is, hot: then serve all up
in the shell.

_Crab or Lobster, to butter._

The crabs or lobsters being boiled and cold, take all the meat out of
the shells and body; break the claws and take out the meat. Shred it
small; add a spoonful or two of claret, a little vinegar, and a grated
nutmeg. Let it boil up till it is thoroughly hot; then put in some
melted butter, with anchovies and white gravy; thicken with the yolk of
an egg or two, and when very hot put it into the large shell. Put crumbs
of bread over it, and brown it with a salamander.

_Crab, or Lobster, to stew._ No. 1.

A little cayenne, vinegar, butter, flour, and salt. Cover it with water
and let it stew gently.

_Crab, or Lobster, to stew._ No. 2.

When the lobsters are boiled, take out the tail and claws, and dip them
in white wine; strew over them nutmeg, cloves, mace, salt, and pepper,
mixed together. Then pour over them some melted butter with a little
white wine in it; send them to the bakehouse, and let them stand in a
slow oven about half an hour. Pour out the butter and wine, and pour on
some fresh butter; when cold, cover them, and keep them in a cold place.

_Crab, or Lobster, to stew._ No. 3.

Boil the lobsters; when cold take out all the meat; season it well with
pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace pounded. Put it into an earthen pot with
as much clarified butter as will cover it; bake it well. While warm,
take it out of the pot, and let the butter drain from it. Break it as
fine as you can with a spoon or knife; add more seasoning if required;
put it as close as possible in the pot, and cover with clarified butter.
The hen lobsters are best for this purpose, as the eggs impart a good
colour. It may be pounded in a marble mortar, but, if baked enough, will
do as well without it.

_Crawfish, to make red._

Rub the fish with aqua vitæ, which will produce the desired effect most
completely.

_Eels broiled whole._

Skin, wash, and dry your eels, and score them with the knife, seasoning
them with pepper, salt, thyme, parsley, and crumbs of bread, turning
them round and skewering them across; you may either roast or broil them
as you like best: the sauce to be melted butter with lemon juice.

_Eels, to collar._

Scour large silver eels with salt; slit them, and take out the
back-bones; wash and dry them; season with shred parsley, sage, an
onion, and thyme. Then roll each into collars, in a cloth; tie them
close with the heads, bones, and a bundle of herbs, and boil them in
salt and water. When tender, take them up, and again tie them close;
drain the pickle, and put them into it.

_Eels, to fry._

Cut every eel into eight pieces; mix them with a proper quantity of
yolks of eggs, and well season with pepper, and salt, and bread rubbed
fine, with parsley and thyme; then flour them, and fry them. You may
cook them as plain as you like, with only salt and flour, and serve them
up with melted butter and fried parsley.

_Eels, to pot._

Into an earthen pan put Jamaica and common pepper, pounded fine, and
salt; mix them and strew some at the bottom of the pan; cut your eels
and lay them over it, and strew a little more seasoning over them. Then
put in another layer of eels, repeating this process till all the eels
are in. Lay a few bay leaves upon them, and pour as much vinegar as you
may think requisite; cover the pan with brown paper and bake them. Pour
off the liquor, cover them with clarified butter, and lay them by for
use.

_Eels, to pickle._

Drain, wash, and well cleanse your eels, and cut off the heads. Cut them
in lengths of four or five inches, with their skins on; stew in them
some pepper and salt, and broil them on a gridiron a fine colour: then
put them in layers in a jar, with bay-leaf, pepper, salt, a few slices
of lemon, and a few cloves. Pour some good vinegar on them; tie strong
paper over, and prick a few holes in it. It is better to boil the
seasoning with some sweet herbs in the vinegar, and let it stand to be
cold before it is put over the eels. Two yolks of eggs boiled hard
should be put in the vinegar with a tea-spoonful of flour of mustard.
Two yolks are sufficient for twelve pounds of eels.

_Eels, to roast._

Skin your eels; turn, scotch, and wash them with melted butter; skewer
them crosswise; fix them on the spit, and put over them a little pepper,
salt, parsley, and thyme; roast them quick. Fry some parsley, and lay it
round the dish; make your sauce of butter and gravy.

_Eels, to spitchcock._

Leave the skin on the eels; scour them with salt; wash them; cut off
their heads and slit them on the belly side; take out the bone and guts.
Wash and wipe them well; cut them in pieces three inches long, and wipe
them quite dry. Put two ounces of butter, with a little minced parsley,
thyme, sage, pepper and salt, and a little chopped shalot, in a stewpan;
when the butter is melted, stir the ingredients together, and take the
pan off the fire; mix the yolks of two eggs with them and dip the eels
in, a piece at a time; then roll them in bread crumbs, making as much
stick on as you can. Rub the gridiron with a bit of suet; set it over a
clear fire, and broil your eels of a fine crisp brown; dust them with
crisp parsley. Sauce, anchovy and butter, or plain butter in a boat.

_Another way._

Wash your eels well in their skins with salt and water; dry and slit
them; take out the back-bone, and slash them: season them with chopped
parsley, thyme, salt, and pepper. Clean the inside with melted butter;
cut them into pieces about three inches long and broil them; make the
sauce with butter and orange juice.

_Eels, to stew._

Take five pounds of middling shafflings, cut off their heads, skin, and
cut them in pieces as long as your finger. Wash them in several waters;
dry them well with a cloth, lay them in a pan, sprinkle over them half
an ounce of white salt, and let them lie an hour. Lay them in a stewpan,
and add half a pint of French white wine, a quarter of a pint of water,
two cloves beaten, a blade of mace, a large onion peeled, and the rind
of a lemon; stew all these gently half an hour: then take the eels out
of the liquor, skim off all the fat, and flour the eels all over; put to
the liquor in which they were stewed an anchovy, washed and boned, and
mix sorrel and parsley, half a handful of each, and half a pound of
fresh butter. Let it just boil up; put in the eels; when they boil, lay
them on sippets in your dish, and send them up hot to table.

_Another way._

Cover the fish close in a stewpan with a piece of butter as big as a
walnut rolled in flour, and let it stew till done enough, which you will
know by the eels being very tender. Take them up and lay them on a dish;
strain your sauce, and give it a quick boil and pour it over the fish.
Garnish with lemon.

_Fish, to recover when tainted._

When fish of any kind is tainted plunge it in cold milk, which will
render it sweet again.

_Fish, in general, to dress._

Take water, salt, half a pint of vinegar, a sprig of thyme, a small
onion, and a little lemon peel; boil them all together, then put in your
fish, and when done enough take them out, drain them well, and lay them
over a stove to keep hot.

If you fry fish, strew some crumbs of grated bread very fine over them,
and fry them in sweet oil; then drain them well and keep them hot.

_Fish, to dress in Sauce._

Cut off the heads, tails, and fins, of two or three haddocks or other
small fish; stew them in a quart of water, with a little spice and
anchovy, and a bunch of sweet herbs, for a quarter of an hour; and then
skim. Roll a bit of butter in flour, and thicken the liquor; put down
the fish, and stew them with a little chopped parsley, and cloves, or
onions.

_Fish hashed in Paste._

Cut the fish into dice about three quarters of an inch square; prepare
white sauce the same as for fowls, leaving out the mushrooms and
truffles; add a little anchovy sauce to give it a good colour, and a
pinch of cayenne pepper and salt. When the sauce is done, throw in the
dice of fish, and when thoroughly hot serve it.

There should be a little more butter in the sauce than is commonly used
in the white sauce for fowls.

_Fish, to Cavietch._

Cut the fish into slices, season them with pepper and salt, and let them
lie for an hour; dry them well with a cloth, flour and fry them brown in
oil: boil a quantity of vinegar proportionate to that of the fish to be
prepared: cover the fish with slices of garlic and some whole pepper and
mace; add the same quantity of oil as vinegar, mix them well together,
and salt to your taste. When the fish and liquor are quite cold, slice
onions and lay at the bottom of the pan; then put a layer of fish, and
so on, till the whole is in. The liquor must be cold before it is poured
on the fish.

_Gudgeon._

Dress as you would smelts.

_Haddocks, to bake._

Bone two or three haddocks, and lay them in a deep pan with pepper,
salt, butter and flour, and two or three anchovies, and sufficient water
to cover them. Cover the pan close for an hour, which is required to
bake them, and serve them in the saucepan.

_Haddock baked._

Let the inside of the gills be drawn out and washed clean; fill with
bread crumbs, parsley, sweet herbs chopped, nutmeg, salt, pepper, a bit
of butter, and grated lemon-peel; skewer the tail into the mouth, and
rub it well with yolk of egg. Strew over bread crumbs, and stick on bits
of butter. Bake the fish in a common oven, putting into the dish a
little white wine and water, a bit of mace, and lemon-peel. Serve up
with oyster sauce, white fish sauce, or anchovy sauce; but put to the
sauce what gravy is in the dish, first skimming it.

_Haddock Pudding._

Skin the fish; take out all the bones, and cut it in thin slices. Butter
the mould well, and throw round it the spawn of a lobster, before it is
boiled. Put alternate slices of haddock and lobster in the mould, and
season to your taste. Beat up half a pint of cream or more, according to
the size of the mould, with three eggs, and pour on it: tie a cloth
over, and boil it an hour. Stew oysters to go in the dish. Garnish with
pastry.

_Herring._

The following is a Swedish dish: Take salted herring, some cold veal, an
apple, and an onion, mince them all fine, and mix them well together
with oil and vinegar.

_Lampreys, to pot._

Well cleanse your lampreys in the following manner: the intestines and
the pipe which nature has given them instead of a bone must be taken
clear away, by opening them down the belly from head to tail. They must
then be rubbed with wood-ashes, to remove the slime. Then rub with salt,
and wash them in three or four waters. Let them be quite free from water
before you proceed to season them thus:--take, according to the quantity
you intend to pot, allspice ground with an equal quantity of black
pepper, a little mace, cayenne pepper, salt, about the same quantity as
that of all the other seasoning; mix these well together, and rub your
lampreys insi

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