The Skilful Cook
by Mary Harrison · English · Gutenberg #29007 · 423,937 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: The Skilful Cook
Author: Mary Harrison
Release date: May 30, 2009 [eBook #29007]
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Language: English
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| _Crown 8vo, 2/6 net_ |
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| A GUIDE |
| TO |
| MODERN COOKERY |
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| BY THE SAME AUTHOR |
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| _Fourth Edition_ |
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| _Crown 8vo, 2/6 net_ |
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| =366= MENUS and |
| =1200= RECIPES |
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| Of the Baron Brisse |
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| In FRENCH and ENGLISH |
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| Translated by |
| Mrs. Matthew Clark |
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| _Ninth Edition_ |
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| _Fcap. 8vo, 2/6 net_ |
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| LEAVES FROM |
| OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN |
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| OR |
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| HOW TO COOK |
| VEGETABLES |
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| By Janet Ross |
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| With Photogravure Frontispiece |
| |
| _Third Edition_ |
| |
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THE
SKILFUL COOK
A PRACTICAL MANUAL
OF
MODERN EXPERIENCE
BY
MARY HARRISON
FIRST CLASS DIPLÔMÉE, SOUTH KENSINGTON
LECTURER ON HYGIENE, DOMESTIC ECONOMY
AND COOKERY
_EIGHTH EDITION_
1905
LONDON
J. M. DENT & CO.
29 & 30, BEDFORD STREET, W.C.
_All rights reserved_
TO
HER ROYAL HIGHNESS
THE PRINCESS CHRISTIAN
WHOSE INTEREST IN EVERY GOOD AND USEFUL WORK
HAS SO JUSTLY ENDEARED HER TO ALL
CLASSES OF THIS NATION
THIS WORK
IS
BY HER GRACIOUS PERMISSION
Most Respectfully Dedicated
BY HER
HUMBLE AND OBEDIENT SERVANT
MARY HARRISON
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Introduction 1
Hints to Young Housekeepers 6
Food and Diet 8
The Table 13
How to Cook 15
How to Clean Stoves and Cooking Utensils 19
Rules for Boiling 22
Rules for Roasting 23
Rules for Frying 24
Rules for Baking 26
Rules for Grilling 27
Rules for Broiling 27
Joints 28
Poultry and Game 32
Savoury Meat Dishes 40
Sauces 53
Breakfast Dishes and Beverages 69
Cold Meat Cookery 84
Entrées 92
Fish Cookery 111
Pastry 133
Puddings 151
Vegetables 190
Soups 203
Bread and Cakes 226
Jellies and Creams 243
Soufflées and Omelets 263
Invalid Cookery 268
Supper Dishes and Salads 277
Miscellaneous Dishes 283
Odds and Ends 288
How to use up Fragments 291
Forcemeats 293
Preserves 295
Menus 297
Suppers 308
INDEX 313
THE SKILFUL COOK.
INTRODUCTION.
The importance of every woman having a thorough knowledge of domestic
economy cannot be too strongly insisted on. The false refinement which,
of late years, has considered an acquaintance with domestic matters to
be only suitable for servants, has been fraught with the most disastrous
consequences. This may seem strong language, but it is not too strong.
All sanitary reformers know well enough that it is in the power of many
women to prevent very many deaths, and an incalculable amount of misery
and vice. Speaking of sanitary reform, the late Canon Kingsley
says:--'Women can do in that work what men cannot. The private
correspondence of women, private conversation, private example of
ladies, above all of married women, of mothers of families, may do what
no legislation can.' And again, in the same speech, delivered on behalf
of the Ladies' Sanitary Association, he says:--'Ah! would to God that
some man had the pictorial eloquence to put before the mothers of
England the mass of preventable agony of mind and body which exists in
England, year after year: and would that some man had the logical
eloquence to make them understand that it is in their power, in the
power of the mothers and wives of the higher classes--I will not say to
stop it all, God only knows that--but to stop, as I believe,
three-fourths of it.'
This may seem to some, perhaps, too serious an introduction to a cookery
book; but it is my earnest wish that my book may not be simply a
collection of recipes for cooks to refer to, but a real help to those
women who, recognising the importance of good cookery in sanitary
reform, are doing their utmost (as I know many are) to acquire that
knowledge, and are thereby making the lives of those about them brighter
and happier; and are also by their examples doing an amount of good that
they themselves scarcely dream of. I have been told more than once by
those benevolently interested in the working classes that with
instruction to ladies on cookery they had no sympathy, and they seemed
to think that it would be better if lessons on the subject were given
exclusively to the poor. They forget that the wives of the working men
are women who have most of them been domestic servants, and that what
they learn in their situations, and what habits they there acquire, they
take for _good_ or _evil_ into their own homes; and in this way an
ignorant careless mistress may be doing an infinitude of harm to her
sister women in a lower position than herself. On the other hand, a
mistress who understands thoroughly the management of a house, by wisely
training her servants in habits of order and industry, by teaching them
what they do not know and have had no opportunity of learning about
hygiene or the laws of health, may be--in fact cannot help being--a
blessing indirectly to many homes.
I believe that the working classes must be taught in this way if they
are to be taught at all. I have myself, over and over again, tried to
benefit my poorer sisters by giving them free lessons on food and
cookery; and although I invariably find a few who are very grateful for
such instruction, the majority, I imagine, never trouble to put in
practice what they have been taught. Their habits have been already
formed, and it is not easy for them to alter them. But it is a
significant fact that those who do value the lessons are generally
respectable hardworking women, who have held good situations under good
mistresses.
I have also heard it very ignorantly objected by some that by teaching
ladies how to cook, you are taking the bread out of the servants'
mouths. This is, indeed, the conclusion of a shallow mind; for with
equal justice and good sense, it might be said that the owner of any
large business was taking the bread out of his _employés'_ mouths
because he happened to be acquainted with all the details of his own
business, and was able to see that those in his employment attended to
their duties properly. But this, I suppose, everyone will admit, that
the owner of any business ignorant of the management and details of it,
would not unlikely one day find himself without any business to manage.
And if this is true with regard to men's businesses, is it not equally
so with regard to women's?
I have the greatest sympathy with servants, and would be the last to
injure them in any way. A good servant is a treasure: and good work
always deserves good wages. But the more a mistress knows of household
work herself, the more is she likely to appreciate a servant who
honestly and conscientiously performs her duties; and by understanding
their difficulties, the more consideration is she likely to show to
those in her employ.
But there are some ladies to whom a knowledge of domestic economy ought
to be especially invaluable--namely, those whose means are so limited
that they cannot afford to engage servants who have had any great
experience, and, therefore, who keep only what is called a general
servant, a term which often means a woman or girl who will undertake to
do everything, but who has only the vaguest notions of how anything
should be done. They, poor things, have had no opportunity of learning
in the homes from which they came. But it will be well for the poor
'General' if her mistress can teach and train her; for she will then
leave her situation with knowledge and habits that will make her a
valuable and useful woman, and be of the greatest service to her all her
life.
It is, however, quite surprising to see the rough way in which some
people allow themselves to be served, and the muddle in which they
prefer to live rather than do anything themselves that they consider
menial; as if an untidy house, slovenly servants, badly cooked and
coarsely served food, are not likely to do much more to lower their
self-respect than any amount of so-called drudgery. 'A gentlewoman,' it
has been said, 'never lowers herself by doing that which would make her
feel less a gentlewoman if left undone.'
How much healthier and happier, too, many girls would be, if, instead of
going out in all weathers, day after day, to earn a miserable pittance
in any such employment as daily governesses, they would do some of the
lighter housework, cooking, &c., at home. By being able to do with one
servant instead of two, they would save probably more than they could
earn in other ways, besides being much stronger from the exercise thus
taken. But too many girls are, unfortunately, imbued with the vulgar
notion that work is not genteel. What a Moloch this gentility has been
and still is! What a number of human sacrifices are continually placed
at its shrine, and what puppets its votaries become! Mr. Smiles says:
'There is a dreadful ambition abroad for being "genteel." We keep up
appearances too often at the expense of honesty, and though we may not
be rich, yet we must _seem_ to be so. We must be "respectable," though
only in the meanest sense--in mere vulgar outward show. We have not the
courage to go patiently onward in the condition of life in which it has
pleased God to call us, but must needs live in some fashionable state to
which we ridiculously please to call ourselves; and all to gratify the
vanity of that unsubstantial genteel world of which we form a part.'
It would effect a moral revolution if women would only look at matters
in the true light. How much crime and misery may be traced to mismanaged
unattractive homes! How many deaths to the ignorance of hygiene! How
much intemperance to the physical depression caused by badly cooked
food! Let us hope that the refinement, falsely so called, which is only
another name for vanity, laziness, and selfishness, may soon give way to
the true refinement of heart and mind which considers nothing too menial
which will benefit others; nothing too common that will add to the
happiness of our fellow-creatures.
If we women could earnestly and courageously endeavour to do the duty
nearest to us, remembering that all honest work, of whatever kind, has
been for ever ennobled by the great Founder of our Faith, so should we
be, one in one way and one in another, 'helping to move (to quote Dean
Goulburn) the wheels of the great world system whose revolutions are
bringing on the kingdom of Christ.' 'To be good and to be useful,' as
Canon Kingsley says, 'are the two objects for which we were sent into
this world.'
HINTS TO YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS.
She looketh well to the ways of her household.
_Proverbs of Solomon._
Take care that you know definitely what sum you can afford to spend on
your household expenses, and make it a point of conscience never to
exceed it. Market with ready money, if possible; but, if it is more
convenient to pay by the month, or quarter, never make that an excuse
for letting your bills mount up to double what you can afford to pay.
With accounts, carefully kept, it is quite possible to regulate the
expenditure to the income.
Never order things at random, but inquire the price of everything before
purchasing. Take every pains to know how to judge of the quality of
meat, groceries, &c., so that you may not be imposed on. Never be
ashamed to say you cannot afford to have this or that. To be poor may be
a misfortune, but it is not a fault; and, indeed, to be rich is often a
far greater misfortune. The discipline of poverty, and the self-denial
it involves, will often strengthen a character which the luxury of
riches would enervate.
Cultivate sufficient independence of character to enable you to form
your household, and regulate your expenses according to your _own_
means, and not according to the income of your neighbours. What does it
matter if some may sneer at your thread-bare carpets and frugal fare?
The approval of your own conscience is of far more importance than the
friendship of the vulgar-minded. Above all things keep your accounts
most strictly. Without this you are like a mariner without a compass,
or chart, you don't know where you are or what is your position, and you
will find yourself, before long, on the rocks of debt and difficulty.
Extravagant housekeeping has been the cause of the most serious evils;
and, if persisted in, will be sure, in time, to wreck the peace and
happiness of yourself and family.
Extravagance is, no doubt, often the result of mere thoughtlessness, but
that does not mend matters. There is as much evil wrought by want of
thought as by want of heart. If it is true that there is but one step
between the sublime and the ridiculous, it is equally true that there is
but one step between folly and wickedness. Therefore, all young
housekeepers ought to give earnest attention to the management of their
affairs, for certainly in these matters the 'wise woman buildeth her
house, while the foolish plucketh it down with her hands.'
FOOD AND DIET.
The human body is constantly wearing out. With every movement, every
breath drawn, there is some waste of its substance. To repair this
waste, and, in the case of children, to provide material for their
growth, a certain amount of food should be taken daily. The food taken
should consist of such qualities as will make flesh and muscle; such as
will also keep up the heat of the body, and give force, or the power of
movement. These foods must contain a certain quantity of liquid, and the
salts necessary to keep the blood pure.
TABLE OF FOODS.
Flesh-forming or Nitrogenous.
_Examples_--Meat
Poultry
Fish
Game
Eggs
Cheese
Flour
Oatmeal
Barley
Rice
Peas
Beans
Lentils
Heat-giving or Carbonaceous.
_Examples_--Butter
Suet
Dripping
And fat of all kinds
Sugar in whatever form
Starch, which is contained in all vegetables
The foods under the head of flesh-formers, although classed as
flesh-formers, are really compound foods. They contain some heat-giving
as well as flesh-forming properties.
The heat-giving foods, on the contrary, are all simple foods. Life could
not be sustained on any one of them alone, whatever quantity might be
taken. These facts are sufficient to show the necessity of a mixed diet.
Professor Church says in his lectures on this subject: 'Our food must be
palatable, that we may eat it with relish, and get the greatest
nourishment from it. The flavour and texture of food, its taste, in
fact, stimulates the production of those secretions--such as the saliva
and the gastric juice--by the action of which the food is digested or
dissolved, and becomes finally a part of the body, or is _assimilated_.
As food, then, must be relished it is desirable that it should be varied
in character--it should neither be restricted to vegetable products on
the one hand, nor to animal substances (including milk and eggs) on the
other. By due admixture of these, and by varying, occasionally, the kind
of vegetable or meat taken, or the modes of cooking adopted, the
necessary constituents of a diet are furnished more cheaply, and at the
same time do more efficiently their proper work. Now, if we were to
confine ourselves to wheaten bread, we should be obliged to eat in order
to obtain our daily supply of albuminoids, or 'flesh-formers,' nearly
4 lb.--an amount that would give us nearly twice as much of the starchy
matters which should accompany the albuminoids--or, in other words, it
would supply not more than the necessary daily allowance of _nitrogen_,
but almost twice the necessary daily allowance of _carbon_. Now animal
food is generally richer in albuminoid, or nitrogenous constituents,
than vegetable food; so, by mixing lean meat with our bread, we may get
a food in which the constituents correspond better to our requirements;
for 2 lb. of bread may be substituted by 12 oz. of meat, and yet all the
necessary carbon as well as nitrogen be thereby supplied. As such a
substitution is often too expensive, owing to the high price of
meat--cheese, which is twice as rich in nitrogenous matters (that is
flesh-formers) as butchers' meat, may be, and constantly is, employed as
a complete diet, and for persons in health, doing hard bodily work, it
affords suitable nourishment. Even some vegetable products, rich in
nitrogen, as haricot beans, may be used in the same way as meat or
cheese, and for the same purpose.'[1]
[1] Church _On Food_.
It is a pity that the value of haricot beans, peas, lentils, and oatmeal
is not more generally known. One writer says that there is as much
nourishment in 1 lb. of either of these as in 3 lb. of lean meat; and in
a lecture on the same subject, another writer states that in three
farthings' worth of oatmeal there is as much nourishment as in a mutton
chop. These are certainly facts which should be known, especially by
people of limited means. Macaroni and semolina are also valuable foods;
they are prepared from the most nutritious part of the wheat grain. Rice
and maize are deficient in flesh-forming properties, but useful as
heat-giving foods; so are, also, tapioca, cornflour, and sago.
Potatoes and fresh vegetables contain but little nourishment. They must
not, however, be despised on that account, as they are most valuable
additions to our daily diet on account of the potash and other salts
which they contain. These vegetables help to keep the blood pure. The
anti-scorbutic properties of the potato are so great, that since its
introduction into England leprosy is said to have entirely disappeared;
neither is scurvy the scourge it was formerly.
The food taken daily should be in proportion to the work done. A
labouring man, for example, working hard each day, would require such
foods as liver and bacon, steak, bullock's heart, beans, peas, cheese,
hard-boiled eggs, &c.; foods, in fact, that would not be too easily
digested. Hard work causes the food to be assimilated more readily. A
too easily digested fare would cause a constant feeling of hunger. For
anyone, on the contrary, leading a sedentary life, the food taken could
not be too digestible. In that case, mutton, plainly cooked chicken,
soles, milk puddings, and lightly boiled eggs should be the kind of
viands chosen.
Children should have plain wholesome fare. Oatmeal and bread are both
excellent foods for them. The lime they contain hardens their bones. The
bread should be made from seconds flour, which contains more
flesh-forming and mineral matter than the whiter and more sifted kinds.
Children should also have plenty of good milk. This is of the greatest
importance, especially for the first months of a child's life. Milk is
the only perfect food, and contains all that is necessary to sustain
healthy life. It is also the only food a child can properly digest,
until it cuts its teeth. The improper feeding of children is the great
cause of infant mortality. When it becomes advisable to add to milk
other foods, they should be nutritious and well cooked. Fine oatmeal or
baked flour are, perhaps, the two best. Dr. Fothergill says: 'Children
fed on the food of their seniors, or rich cake, and crammed with
sweeties, do not as a rule thrive well. They cannot compare favourably
with children fed on oatmeal, maize, and milk. Oatmeal is recovering its
position as a nursery food, after its temporary banishment. Oatmeal
porridge is the food _par excellence_ of the infants born north of the
Trent, or was, at least, and stalwart people were the results.'
There is no doubt oatmeal is an excellent food, not for children only,
but for everyone, especially for those who work hard. It is much to be
regretted that it is not more universally used. The English, as a rule,
eat too much animal food; and do not give sufficient attention to the
proper preparation of vegetables.
Oatmeal water is considered a most strengthening beverage, and is used
by men in foundries when beer and fermented liquors would be found too
heating.
Of alcoholic drinks, Mr. Buckmaster says (echoing the opinion of eminent
physiologists): 'BEER, WINE, and SPIRITS are never to be regarded as
foods. Their popular use is entirely due to their stimulating
properties. They contain no nitrogen, and are therefore not
flesh-formers, nor can they add anything to the wasting tissues. All
stimulants act by increasing, for a time, the vitality of the body; but
this activity is always followed by depression in proportion to the
previous excitement. TEA and COFFEE do, to some extent, prevent waste;
but their value as foods depends mainly on the sugar and milk taken with
them; and their use, _instead of food_, is almost as hurtful as
intoxicating drinks. COCOA differs very much from either tea or coffee,
since it is a nutritious liquid food.'
In a lecture on the action of alcohol upon health, Sir Andrew Clark says
of health: 'That it is a state which cannot be benefited by alcohol in
any degree.' He also states: 'It is capable of proof, beyond all
possibility of question, that alcohol, _in ordinary circumstances, not
only does not help work, but is a serious hindrance of work_.'
These facts are so important, and ought to be so universally known, that
it is to be hoped before long the chemistry of food will occupy the
place it should as one of the most necessary branches of everyone's
education.
THE TABLE.
A properly cooked meal, and a neatly arranged dinner-table, are
helps to the happiness and moral progress of the humblest of
families.--Buckmaster.
A really capable housekeeper will not be satisfied with good cookery
only. She will be careful to have each dish nicely served, however plain
it may be. Culture, or the want of it, will be seen at once in the
appointment of her table. This remark does not apply to a profusion of
glass, silver, or flowers--these are questions of wealth--but to the
neatness and order with which a table is laid, and the manner in which
the meal is served.
Some people are particularly sensitive to external impressions; and to
them a dinner, or any other meal, however costly, served in an untidy
room, with table-cloth soiled, silver tarnished, glasses smeared, and
above all a slovenly servant, would be enough to give a feeling of
depression that would anything but aid digestion.
A great point to be attended to is to have everything perfectly clean
and orderly, however old and plain. Clean table-cloths make a wonderful
difference to the look of a table; a few flowers also will do much to
give it a bright appearance. Servants should be neat in their dress, and
quiet in their movements. If only one is kept, that is no reason why she
should wait at table in a slovenly dress and with ruffled hair.
The dining-room should be, if possible, a bright room with a good
aspect. Heavy, sombre furniture, however fashionable, should be
avoided. It is unfortunate that so little attention is paid to the
influence of colour; a warm colouring will do much to give a bright look
to a room which would otherwise be dull.
The influence of the mental emotions on the digestion is so great that
it is important that the conversation at meals should be as cheerful as
possible, and no unpleasant subject should be discussed: anything that
disturbs the appetite disturbs the digestion also.
With these points carefully attended to--a bright room, neatly-laid
table, well-cooked food, and cheerful conversation--dinner, or any other
meal, will become what it should be, a refreshment to both mind and
body.
HOW TO COOK.
Hints to Beginners.
A few hints to beginners on the proper way to set about their work may
be, perhaps, of some use; as I know many people get disgusted with
cookery at the very outset, and after one attempt, form a resolution
never to enter the kitchen again. They have spent the whole morning
trying to make a single dish, and that has proved a failure; they have
become hot, tired, and irritable, and ill able to bear the laughter
their failure has excited. There has been a waste of material to no
purpose, and they conclude, therefore, that it is useless for _them_ to
make any further attempts. At any rate, they determine that they will
not try again 'just yet;' and that often means that they do not try
again at all. This disappointment and fatigue is generally the result of
want of method and forethought. A recipe has been taken into the kitchen
to be tried; very probably one half of the terms used in it have not
been understood by the would-be cook. She at once begins to make the
dish, going to the recipe to look for each article required as she wants
to use it. If some of the supplies have run short, she has perhaps to
wait in the middle of her operations while she sends to purchase them.
Moreover, when the cake, pastry, or whatever it may be, is made, the
fire has very likely been forgotten. In this way, even if the dish has
been properly prepared, it is spoiled in the cooking.
Those, too, who have some knowledge of the art and perhaps, can cook
fairly well, will often find the work a great fatigue and toil. They
spend double or treble the time they need in the kitchen, just for the
want of a little judicious management.
Before trying a recipe read it over, _carefully_ notice how a dish is to
be cooked, and make up the fire accordingly. If it is pastry, take means
to get the oven hot; if a boiled pudding, make a good fire, and put a
large saucepan of water on to cook it in before doing anything else.
When this most important matter is attended to, put all the materials
required on the table with the weights and scales; notice what cooking
utensils will be required, see that they are all clean and ready for
use, and put them near to hand. If, for example, you want to make a
cake, proceed in this manner:--Attend first to the fire to get the oven
lightly heated, then put out the weights and scales and all necessary
materials; put a basin on the table for mixing, two or three cups for
breaking eggs in, one or two plates to put the different ingredients on
as they are measured, a grater, and anything else that may be required.
Then carefully weigh the materials, taking the exact quantities named in
the recipe. Prepare them all before mixing any of them. Wash and pick
over the currants, and while they are drying, cut up all the candied
peel; beat up the eggs, and grease and prepare the cake-tin. The butter
should then be rubbed into the flour, and the other dry ingredients
should be added. The cake should then be quickly mixed, put into its
tin, and placed at once in a hot oven.
If several dishes are to be made, a little thought beforehand will often
prevent a very great deal of fatigue and waste of time. Suppose, for
example, that you wish to prepare two or three dishes for supper and to
make some cakes for tea. You have, perhaps, decided to have a chicken
coated with Béchamel sauce, a _gâteau_ of apples with whipped cream, a
custard pudding, and some rock cakes. Make, the day before, if possible,
a list of the articles required for the different dishes, and order what
is necessary in good time, so that there may be no delay the next
morning. Have the kitchen quite clear from all litters before you begin
to work. No one can cook well in a muddle. Then commence operations by
making up the fire and putting a saucepan of stock, or water, on to boil
for the chicken. Next put the gelatine to soak for the _gâteau_, not
forgetting a little in the Béchamel sauce. The longer gelatine soaks,
the more quickly it will dissolve. Then slice the apples and put them to
stew with the sugar, so that they may be cooking while you are preparing
something else. Afterwards truss the chicken; and probably, by the time
it is ready, the water or stock in the saucepan will be boiling. Put the
chicken into it to simmer gently, noticing the time, so that it may not
be over-cooked. Then prepare the ingredients for the rock cakes; mixing
them--as they require a quick oven--before the pudding. While they are
cooking, prepare the custard; and by the time it is made, the cakes, if
the oven is properly hot, will be sufficiently set to admit of the heat
being moderated. Now make the Béchamel sauce; strain it and add the
dissolved gelatine. Take up the chicken, remove the skewers, place it on
a dish, and coat it nicely with the sauce. Then rub the apples through
the sieve, and finish making the _gâteau_. By this time the chicken,
_gâteau_, and rock cakes are made, and the custard will be cooking.
While waiting for the custard, whip the cream for the _gâteau_ and put
it on a sieve to drain; prepare any decorations you may intend to put on
the fowl, and lay them on a plate near to it in the pantry, ready to put
on just before serving. Everything will now be ready. With just a little
management, even a slow worker would scarcely take a longer time to
make these dishes than an hour and a half.
Whatever failures and disappointments you may meet with at first, do not
be discouraged. Success is certain if you will only have a little
patience and perseverance. Do not be disheartened because you feel very
awkward, and because you not unfrequently forget the oven, and let your
cakes and pastry burn. Try not to mind the banter of your relations and
friends at any possible failure. Many well-meaning efforts to acquire
this useful knowledge have been nipped in the bud by the thoughtless,
silly way in which some people will laugh at any mistake or blunder. A
cake which has caught in baking, or a pudding with the sugar left out,
will probably afford them an inexhaustible subject of mirth. Make up
your mind, however, not to be discouraged by any of these things.
Practice will give nimbleness to your fingers and strength to your
memory. As regards any laughter your mistakes may cause, only persevere,
and it will not be long before the laugh will be on your side. But keep
in mind in any of your attempts that you must be _exact_ in all you do.
If you try to cook without paying strict attention to weights of the
materials to be used and to the other directions, you will deserve to
fail. Be very particular in measuring quantities; bear in mind that
carelessness in this respect is no mark of a superior cook as some
people imagine, but rather of a careless or ignorant one.
As whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well, bring all your
intelligence to bear upon what you take in hand.
HOW TO CLEAN STOVES AND COOKING UTENSILS.
Iron Saucepans.
Immerse them in a pan of hot water with soda in it, and wash them
thoroughly inside and out, taking care that nothing is left sticking to
the bottom of the saucepans. If anything has been burnt in them, boil
some strong soda and water in them before washing them, and then rub the
bottom of the saucepan with sand until it is quite clean. The sand must
be used nearly dry; if too much wetted it loses its power.
The saucepan lids should be thoroughly rinsed and dried.
Enamel Saucepans.
Wash them thoroughly in hot water with soda in it, using soap if
necessary. If anything has been burnt in the saucepan, boil strong soda
and water in it before cleaning it, and rub it well with sand. Rinse and
dry thoroughly.
Anglo-American Saucepans.
Clean like enamel saucepans. They should be kept perfectly clean inside
and out.
Tin Saucepans.
Clean these like iron saucepans.
Dish Covers and Jelly Moulds.
Wash with soap and water and dry thoroughly. Powder some whiting, and
mix with a little cold water; brush the mixture over the covers and
moulds; when dry, rub off with a plate brush or soft cloth or leather.
To Clean a Roaster.
Wash the dripping-pan and inside of the roaster with hot water and soda
to remove all grease, then rub them with sand until they are quite
bright, rinse and dry thoroughly. Clean the outside of the roaster with
whiting, used according to directions given for cleaning dish covers.
Hair and Wire Sieves.
Wash these thoroughly with hot water with soda in it, and scrub them
quite clean with a sieve-brush. Dry them thoroughly, and keep them in a
_dry place_. If this is not done a hair sieve will get mildewed, an iron
one rusty, and a copper one will verdigris and become poisonous.
Copper-wire sieves should always have especial care.
Paste Boards and Rolling Pins.
Scrub them well with hot water and sand. Do not use soda, as it will
make the wood yellow.
Baking Tins.
Wash them in hot water with soda in it, and rub with sand until they are
bright; rinse and dry well.
To Clean a Close Stove or Open Range.
Scrape out all the ashes and brush up all the dust. Then, with a brush,
thoroughly clean the flues. Brush the stove over with liquid blacklead,
and when it is dry polish with brushes. Then clean any steel about the
stove and the fire-irons and fender with emery-paper; any brass with
brick-dust well rubbed on with a leather.
Brush all the dust from the oven, and wipe it round with a cloth wrung
out of hot water.
To Clean a Gas Stove.
Wash off any grease that may have been spilled on the stove with a cloth
dipped in hot water, and wipe the inside of the stove, taking care to
dry it thoroughly. Wash the dripping-pan in hot water with soda in it,
and rub it with sand to brighten it. Then wipe it quite dry.
Brush the stove over with liquid blacklead, and polish it with brushes.
Copper Cooking Utensils.
Wash them well in hot water with soda in it; moisten some salt with
vinegar, and rub them well with this to remove stains and tarnish. Then
wash them quickly with soap and water, and dry them thoroughly; polish
them with a little powdered whiting rubbed on with a soft leather.
RULES FOR BOILING.
All meat, with the exception of salt meat, should be put into boiling
water, and should be well boiled for quite five minutes, in order that
the albumen on the outside of the joint may be set. The hardened albumen
forms a kind of casing. This casing serves to keep in, as far as
possible, the flavour and juices of the meat. When the meat has been
boiled sufficiently long to effect this hardening, the kettle should be
drawn to one side of the fire. The water should be kept at simmering
point until the joint is cooked. The general rule, as regards time
required for boiling, is a quarter of an hour for each pound of meat and
a quarter of an hour over. But only general rules can be given, as the
time will vary according to the nature of the joint to be cooked. A
thick piece of meat will necessarily take longer to cook than a thin
piece with much bone, although both may be the same weight. Very _fresh_
meat will also take longer to cook than that which has been hung.
As soon as the water boils, after the meat is in it, the scum should be
carefully removed from time to time, while it is cooking. If the scum be
allowed to boil down, it will settle on the joint and discolour it. It
is best, however, as a precaution, to wrap the meat in a very clean
cloth; this will effectually preserve its colour. Salt meat should be
put into lukewarm water, for the purpose of drawing out some of the
salt. It should be simmered gently, allowing always twenty minutes to
the pound, and twenty minutes over. Salt hardens the fibre of the meat;
it, therefore, requires to be cooked for a longer time to make it
tender.
RULES FOR ROASTING.
To roast successfully, make up a nice clear fire. When once made up, it
should be replenished, if necessary, by putting on coal or coke at the
back. The live coals should be drawn to the front to prevent smoke.
Fasten the joint to the jack. Place the roaster close to the fire for
the first ten minutes, so that the heat of the fire may at once harden
the albumen, and form a case to keep in the flavour and juices.
Afterwards, draw the roaster farther back and cook gradually, basting
every ten minutes. The basting keeps the meat from drying up, and gives
it a better flavour. The length of time allowed for roasting is the same
as for boiling, the rule being a quarter of an hour for each pound, and
a quarter of an hour over. For white meat, veal and pork, or solid
joints without bone, allow twenty minutes to the pound, and twenty
minutes over. These rules, however, cannot always be strictly adhered
to, as the size and shape of the joint must be taken into consideration,
as well as the weight. Meat that has been frozen will take longer to
cook than fresh meat. Meat which has been well hung will take a shorter
time than fresh meat. If a jack is not used, the joint should be
fastened to a rope of worsted, which should be kept constantly turning.
Gravy, for a joint, may be made according to two methods. The first
method is to take the dripping-pan away half an hour before the joint is
cooked, then to put a hot dish in its place, and to pour the contents of
the pan into a basin. Put the basin into a refrigerator; or, place it on
ice. As soon as it is cold, the fat will cake on the top of the gravy,
and should be removed very carefully. Make the gravy hot, diluting it
with warm water, if necessary, and pour it round the joint.
The other and more usual method of making gravy, is to pour away all the
fat from the pan as soon as the joint is cooked; and then pour into the
pan a sufficient quantity of hot water, scraping well the brown glaze
from the bottom; colour carefully with caramel, or burnt sugar, and pour
it _round_ the joint, not _over_ it. Pouring the gravy over the meat
destroys its crispness.
On no account make gravy from stock; stock is quite unsuitable, as the
vegetable flavour is, to many persons, disagreeable.
RULES FOR FRYING.
French or Wet Frying.
This is cooking in a large quantity of fat sufficient to cover the
articles fried in it. Oil, lard, dripping, or fat rendered down, may be
used for this purpose. Oil is considered the best, as it will rise to
600° without burning; other fats get over-heated after 400°, and
therefore require greater care in using. Success depends, almost
entirely, on getting the fat to the right degree of heat. For ordinary
frying, the heat required is 345°. Unless this point is carefully
attended to, total failure will be the result. There are signs, however,
by which anyone may easily tell when the fat is ready for use. It must
be quite still, making no noise; noise, or bubbling, will be caused by
the evaporation of moisture, or water in it. The expression, 'boiling
lard,' or 'boiling fat,' has been misleading to many inexperienced
cooks, who, not unnaturally, imagine that when the fat is bubbling, like
boiling water, it is boiling, and, therefore, at the right heat. But
boiling _fat_ does not bubble. When it has the appearance of boiling
water, it is simply due, as already explained, to the presence of water
in it, which must pass away by evaporation, before the fat can reach the
required heat. When it ceases to make any noise, and is quite still, it
should be carefully watched; for very soon a pale blue vapour is seen
rising, and then the fat is sufficiently hot. If, from the position of
the stove, it is not easy to see this vapour, a piece of bread may be
held in the fat as a test; if it begins to turn brown, in about a
minute, the fat is ready. It should then be used without delay; since,
when once hot enough, it rapidly gets overheated or burnt. Fat is
burning when the blue vapour becomes like smoke. Burnt fat has an
unpleasant smell, and is apt to give a disagreeable taste to the
articles fried in it. With ordinary care fat need not get overheated.
Next to oil, fat rendered down (_see_ Rendering down Fat), is best for
the purpose. If strained after each time of using, and not allowed to
burn, it will keep good for months, and may be used for fish, sweets, or
savouries, and no taste of anything previously fried in it will be given
to the articles cooked. For this kind of frying, a kitchener, or gas
stove, is preferable to an open range.
All kinds of rissoles, croquettes, fillets and cutlets of fish,
fritters, &c., should be fried in this manner, and should not be darker
than a golden brown. It is an advantage to use a frying-basket for all
such things as are covered with egg and bread-crumbs; but fritters, or
whatever is dipped in batter, should be dropped into the fat, as they
become so light that they rise to the top of it. When they are a pale
fawn colour on the one side, they should be turned over to the other.
Care must be taken to drain everything, after frying, on kitchen paper
in order to remove any grease.
Dry Frying.
This is frying in a cutlet or frying pan, with a small quantity of fat,
and is only suitable for such things as require slow cooking, such as
steaks, mutton or veal cutlets, fillets of beef, liver and bacon.
Pancakes also are fried in this manner. Success depends, as in French
frying, in having the fat rightly heated, taking care that the outside
of the meat cooked be sealed up. In this way the juices and flavour will
be retained in it. Make, therefore, the frying-pan hot, then put in the
fat; and when that is also perfectly hot, put in the meat to be cooked.
When each side has been well sealed up, the heat applied must be
moderated, so that the cooking may be gradual. The common mistake in
this kind of frying is to put the meat into the fat when it is but
barely melted; the juices of the meat are thus allowed to escape, and
the meat is toughened.
RULES FOR BAKING.
To bake meat successfully, the oven must be well ventilated, otherwise,
the joint cooked in this manner will have an unpleasant flavour. The
meat should be put on a trivet, which should be placed on a baking-tin.
The oven must be very hot when the meat is put into it, and the heat
should be kept up for the first quarter of an hour. This is to form the
casing already alluded to in the directions for roasting and boiling;
the heat of the oven must then be very much moderated, and the joint
cooked very gradually, allowing twenty minutes for every pound, and
twenty minutes over. The meat should be basted; and the gravy may be
made in the same manner as in roasting.
RULES FOR GRILLING.
For this method of cookery, a clear fire is essential. The griller is
warmed, and the meat fastened in it. It is then hung on the bars of the
fireplace, and a dish passed underneath to catch any gravy. An ordinary
sized chop, cooked in this way, will take about five minutes on the one
side, and three on the other.
RULES FOR BROILING.
This is cooking over the fire on a gridiron. The flavour of broiled meat
is usually preferred to that of grilled. Put the gridiron over the fire
to heat, and then put the chop, or steak, on it; place the gridiron
close to the fire at first, that the heat may rapidly seal up the
outside of the meat. When this has been accomplished, lift the gridiron
further from the fire, and cook gradually, turning occasionally. A clear
fire is essential. Coke is better than coal for broiling, because there
is less smoke from it.
JOINTS.
Sirloin of Beef.
This is the primest joint, and must be either roasted or baked (see
directions). Horse-radish should be served with it. Yorkshire pudding is
also liked with roast beef.
Ribs of Beef.
These should be cooked like sirloin, and served with the same
accompaniments. A neater looking joint is made by boning and rolling
them. The bones can be used for soup.
Aitch Bone, Round, Thick and Thin Flank of Beef.
Those are usually salted and boiled (see directions for boiling salt
meat). Serve with carrots and turnips, and yeast, Norfolk, or suet
dumplings.
Brisket of Beef.
This should be stewed (see directions for stewed brisket).
Leg of Mutton.
This may be roasted, baked, or boiled. If roasted, it should be served
with red-currant jelly; if boiled, with caper sauce. Carrots and turnips
are liked with boiled mutton.
Shoulder of Mutton.
This may be either roasted or baked. Serve with onion sauce.
Saddle of Mutton.
This may be either roasted or baked. Serve with red-currant jelly.
Neck of Mutton.
This is boiled, and requires long and gentle cooking. Serve with caper
sauce.
Fore Quarter of Lamb.
This joint should be roasted or baked. Serve with mint sauce.
Leg of Lamb.
This may be either roasted, baked, or boiled. Serve, if roast, with mint
sauce; and if boiled, with _maître d'hôtel_ sauce.
Shoulder of Lamb, Saddle of Lamb, Loin of Lamb
All these are either roasted or boiled, and served with mint sauce.
Fillet of Veal.
Stuff it with veal stuffing and make into nice round shape; fasten it
securely with string and skewers, and roast or bake it. Serve with cut
lemon, and send some boiled ham, pork, or bacon to table with it. Use a
pint of thin melted butter, instead of water, for making the gravy.
Breast, Shoulder, and Loin of Veal.
These are all roasted. Thin melted butter is used to make the gravy for
them, and cut lemon is served with them.
Knuckle of Veal.
This is boiled, and served with one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley
added to one pint of melted butter.
Leg of Pork.
This must be roasted or baked, the skin having been previously scored
with a knife. Serve it with apple sauce.
Chine of Pork.
Stuff it with pork stuffing (see Forcemeats) and roast it. Serve with
apple sauce.
Spare Rib of Pork.
This is roasted, the skin having previously been scored. Serve it with
apple sauce.
Hand of Pork.
Soak it for two or three hours before cooking, and boil it. Serve with
pease pudding.
Leg of Pork.
This joint is also salted and boiled. It is served with pease pudding.
To Cook a Ham.
Put into lukewarm water, to which has been added one pint of old ale.
Simmer it very gently until quite tender. For a ham always allow
twenty-five minutes to each pound, and twenty-five minutes over. Let it
get cold in the liquor in which it boiled, then remove the rind and
carefully cover with raspings.
Bacon.
Cook like ham, taking care that it is simmered until perfectly tender.
Remove the skin and cover with raspings.
Pickled Pork.
Put it into lukewarm water and simmer gently until tender.
POULTRY AND GAME.
Roast Goose.
_Ingredients_--1 Goose.
Sage and onion stuffing.
1½ oz. of flour.
1 onion.
1 apple.
3 sage leaves.
½ lb. of gravy beef.
1 quart of water.
_Method._--Stuff the goose by placing the sage and onion forcemeat
inside it.
Then truss it nicely and roast it from one and a half to two hours.
If it is a large one, two hours; if a small one, one and a half hours.
To make the gravy, simmer the giblets in water for three hours with half
a pound of gravy beef cut in pieces, a sliced onion, apple, and three
sage leaves, pepper and salt.
Then stir in a thickening made of the flour, and colour the gravy with a
little burnt sugar. If liked, a glass of port wine may be added.
Pour a little gravy round the goose, and serve the rest in a tureen.
Apple or tomato sauce should be served with roast goose.
Roast Turkey.
_Ingredients_--1 turkey.
Some veal forcemeat (omitting the suet).
1 lb. of gravy beef.
3 pints of water.
1 onion.
2 oz. of flour.
_Method._--Place the forcemeat inside the turkey, and truss it nicely.
Roast it from one and a half to two and a half hours.
Make the gravy by simmering the giblets and beef in the water with the
onion for three hours.
Thicken the gravy with the flour, and pour a little round the turkey.
Serve the rest in a tureen.
Place some fried or baked sausages round the turkey, and serve with
bread sauce.
Boiled Turkey.
A small turkey is sometimes boiled like a fowl, and served with oyster,
celery, or Béchamel sauce.
Roast Duck.
_Ingredients_--1 duck.
Some sage and onion stuffing.
Rather more than 1 pint water.
1 oz. of flour.
1 onion.
1 apple.
¼ lb. of gravy beef, or 2 or 3 bones.
_Method._--Stuff the duck by placing the forcemeat inside it.
Truss it nicely, and roast it from three-quarters of an hour to an hour,
according to its size.
Make the gravy by simmering the giblets in the water with the beef or
bones, onion, apple, pepper and salt, for two hours.
Thicken it with the flour, and colour carefully with burnt sugar.
Pour a little gravy round the duck, and serve the rest in a tureen.
A glass of port wine may be added to the gravy if liked.
Apple or tomato sauce should be served with roast duck.
Ducklings.
These are cooked and served like ducks, and take from twenty to forty
minutes to roast, according to their size.
Roast Hare.
_Ingredients_--1 hare.
Some veal forcemeat.
½ lb. of gravy beef.
1 pint of water.
1 onion.
1 oz. of flour.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Stuff the belly of the hare with the forcemeat, and sew it
in.
Truss it nicely, and roast it from one and a quarter to two hours,
according to its size, basting it constantly.
To make gravy, cut the beef into small pieces, and simmer in the water,
with the onion sliced, for three hours. Thicken it with the flour, and
add, if liked, a glass of port wine.
Pour a little gravy round the hare, and serve the remainder in a
tureen.
Jugged Hare.
_Ingredients_--1 hare.
Some veal forcemeat.
2 oz. of butter.
1 onion, stuck with 6 cloves.
2 glasses of port wine.
1½ pint of gravy or stock.
1 lemon.
_Method._--Dry the hare well and cut it in pieces.
Fry them in the butter.
Then remove them and fry the flour a nice brown.
Pour in the gravy or stock, and stir until it boils.
Then put the stock into an earthenware jar with the hare, onion, thin
rind and juice of the lemon, and pepper and salt to taste.
Cover the jar close, and put it into a moderate oven, where it must
simmer gently from three to four hours until the hare is quite tender.
Make some balls of veal forcemeat, to which the chopped liver of the
hare has been added, and either fry or bake them.
Add them to the jugged hare, and, last of all, pour in the wine.
Serve with red-currant jelly.
Roast Rabbit.
_Ingredients_--1 rabbit.
Some veal forcemeat.
Some nice gravy (_see_ Gravy).
_Method._--Fill the belly of the rabbit with the forcemeat, and sew it
in.
Truss it nicely, and roast it from three-quarters to one hour, basting
constantly.
Pour a little gravy round it, and send some to table in a tureen.
Serve with red-currant jelly.
Boiled Rabbit.
_Ingredients_--1 rabbit.
Some onion or _maître d'hôtel_ sauce.
_Method._--Boil the rabbit gently from half an hour to an hour,
according to its size and age.
Serve it with onion or _maître d'hôtel_ sauce.
Stewed Rabbits.
_Ingredients_--2 rabbits.
4 large onions.
3 pints of water.
2½ oz. of flour.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Cut the rabbits into joints, and slice the onions.
Put them with the water into a large stewpan, and simmer for one hour or
more until the rabbits are tender.
Then make a thickening of the flour and stir it in, letting it boil
well.
Put the rabbit on a hot dish, and pour the gravy over.
Ragout of Rabbit.
_Ingredients_--1 rabbit.
1 onion stuck with 6 cloves.
2 oz. of butter or dripping.
1 oz. of flour.
1½ pint of water or stock.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Cut the rabbit into neat joints, and fry them in a stewpan in
the butter or dripping.
When brown remove them and fry the flour.
Then pour in the water or stock, and stir until it boils.
Put in the pieces of rabbit with the onion, and pepper and salt to
taste.
Simmer gently for about one hour or more until quite tender.
Serve the rabbit on a hot dish, and strain the gravy over it.
Roast Pheasant.
_Ingredients_--1 pheasant.
Half a pint of gravy.
Butter.
_Method._--Roast the pheasant nicely for three-quarters of an hour or an
hour, according to its size, basting it constantly with butter.
Make a nice gravy for it (_see_ Gravy), and serve it with bread sauce
and browned crumbs.
Wild Duck.
_Ingredients_--Wild duck.
Half a pint of gravy (_see_ Gravy).
Lemon juice.
Butter.
_Method._--Roast the wild duck nicely before a clear fire for thirty or
forty-five minutes, basting it constantly with butter.
Sprinkle over it a little cayenne and salt, and a few drops of lemon
juice.
Serve the gravy in a tureen.
If liked, a glass of port wine may be poured over the duck.
Partridges.
Partridges should be nicely roasted before a clear fire from twenty-five
to thirty minutes.
Serve with a little gravy and bread sauce.
Browned crumbs are also handed with them.
Grouse.
Roast these birds before a nice clear fire, basting constantly with
butter.
Serve with gravy, bread sauce, and browned crumbs.
Woodcocks and Snipes.
These birds should be nicely trussed but not drawn.
Roast them carefully from twenty to thirty minutes, basting constantly.
Place under them rounds of toasted bread, buttered on each side, to
catch the trail as it drops, as this is considered a delicacy.
When cooked, lay the toast on a hot dish, place the birds on it, and
pour a little good gravy over.
Boiled Fowl.
Truss nicely and flour the breast slightly.
Fold it in buttered paper, and tie securely with string.
Boil in stock or water, according to the directions given for boiling
meat for three-quarters of an hour to one hour and a half, according to
its age and size.
Serve with white, egg, or _maître d'hôtel_ sauce poured over it.
Roast Fowl.
Truss nicely and roast, according to directions given for roasting meat,
for three-quarters of an hour to one hour and a half according to its
age and size.
Serve with bread sauce and some gravy (_see_ Gravy).
Braised Partridges.
_Ingredients_--A brace of partridges.
A small piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
2 tomatoes.
1 pint of good second stock.
1 wineglass of sherry.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Truss two partridges as for boiling.
Put at the bottom of a stewpan the vegetables cut in small pieces.
Lay the partridges on the top and pour in the stock and sherry; these
should be sufficient to come half way up the partridges.
Cover with buttered paper.
Put the lid on the stewpan and simmer very gently until the partridges
are tender.
Then put them on a baking tin in the oven to brown them.
Strain the stock and boil it rapidly down to a glaze.
Serve the partridges with the glaze poured over them.
SAVOURY MEAT DISHES.
Stewed Steak.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of steak.
1 piece of carrot, turnip, onion, and celery.
1 pint of water.
1 oz. of dripping.
1 oz. of flour.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Cut all the fat from the steak.
Make the dripping hot in a stewpan and fry the steak in it.
Then put in the vegetables, and pour in the water, adding pepper and
salt.
Simmer the steak gently from three to four hours, until quite tender.
When quite cooked, remove it from the gravy.
Put it on a hot dish.
Make a thickening of the flour; stir it into the gravy; boil for two
minutes, and strain over the steak.
A little mushroom catsup, Harvey, or Worcester sauce may be added if
liked.
The fat should previously have been cut into dice, placed on a baking
tin, and cooked in the oven.
For serving, put them in the middle of the steak.
Stewed Brisket of Beef.
_Ingredients_--5 lb. of beef.
2 carrots.
2 onions.
2 turnips.
1 head of celery.
1 sprig of parsley.
Marjoram and thyme.
2 bay leaves.
6 cloves.
1 dozen peppercorns.
3 quarts of water.
_Method._--Put the meat into a saucepan with the vegetables and other
ingredients, and simmer gently for three hours.
Serve on a hot dish, with some of the liquor for gravy.
The remainder can be made into soup.
If to be eaten cold, remove the bones, and press the beef.
Strain the meat liquor, remove the fat, and boil it down to a glaze.
Brush the meat over with it, giving it as many coats of glaze as
necessary.
Stewed Ox-cheek.
_Ingredients_--1 ox-cheek.
1 cowheel.
3 or 4 carrots.
2 or 3 turnips.
3 or 4 onions.
1 sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram.
2 bay leaves.
2 quarts of water.
4 oz. of flour.
_Method._--Wash the ox-cheek and cowheel, and cut them into neat
pieces.
Put them into the water with the carrots, turnips, and onions, and
celery cut in pieces, and the herbs, pepper and salt.
Stew very gently from four to five hours, until the stew is quite
tender.
Make a thickening of the flour.
Stir and cook it well in the gravy.
Put the cheek and cowheel on a hot dish, and strain the gravy over them.
The bones can be used for soup.
Mock Hare.
_Ingredients_--4 lb. shin of beef.
2 quarts of water.
2 carrots.
2 turnips.
1 onion.
6 cloves.
1 sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram.
1 glass of port wine.
3 oz. of flour.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Put the beef into the water with the vegetables cut in
pieces, herbs, cloves, pepper and salt, and stew gently from four to
five hours, until quite tender.
Then make a thickening of the flour, stir it in, and boil well for two
or three minutes.
For serving, place the beef on a hot dish.
Add the wine to the gravy, and strain it over the meat.
Haricot Mutton.
_Ingredients_--7 or 8 mutton cutlets.
1 pint of second stock.
1 carrot.
1 turnip.
1 onion.
1 stick of celery.
1 oz. of flour.
Pepper and salt.
2 oz. of dripping.
_Method._--Fry the cutlets a nice brown in the dripping.
Mix the flour smoothly with the stock; boil it in a stewpan for two
minutes.
Then put in the cutlets and the vegetables cut in fancy shapes.
Stew gently for about three-quarters of an hour, until the meat and
vegetables are tender.
Dish the cutlets in a circle; place the vegetables round them and pour
the gravy over.
Sheep's Head.
_Ingredients_--1 sheep's head.
1 oz. of butter or dripping.
Pepper and salt.
1½ oz. of flour.
A few drops of lemon juice.
_Method._--See that the head has been properly prepared by the butcher,
and the nostrils removed.
Soak it well in salt and water, and wash it carefully.
Cut out the tongue, remove the brains, and tie the head into shape with
a piece of string.
Put it and the tongue into a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer it
from three to four hours.
A quarter of an hour before it is cooked, put in the brains tied in
muslin.
To make a sauce for it, melt the butter or dripping in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly.
Pour in one pint of the broth from the sheep's head.
Stir and cook well, adding pepper and salt to taste a few drops of lemon
juice, or one teaspoonful of vinegar.
Lastly, add the brains, chopped small.
For serving, put the head on a hot dish.
Remove the string, and pour the sauce over.
Sheep's Head au gratin.
_Ingredients_--1 sheep's head.
2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.
½ oz. of butter.
1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
1 teaspoonful of dried and powdered herbs.
Lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Boil the sheep's head according to the directions in
preceding recipe.
When cooked, lay it on a greased baking-sheet.
Sprinkle over it the crumbs, parsley, and herbs, adding a few drops of
lemon juice; pepper and salt.
Put the butter in little pieces about the head, and brown it in a quick
oven or before the fire.
Serve with the brain sauce given in the foregoing recipe.
Liver and Bacon.
_Ingredients_--1 sheep's liver.
1 lb. of fat bacon.
1 pint of hot water.
Some flour.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Cut the bacon into slices, and remove the rind.
Cut the liver into slices, and dip them in flour.
Fry the bacon in a frying-pan, then remove it, and fry the liver in the
bacon fat, adding a little dripping, if necessary.
When the liver is cooked, place it on a hot dish; dredge the pan with
about half an ounce of flour.
Fry the flour brown.
Then pour in one pint of boiling water, stir and boil for one or two
minutes; adding pepper and salt to taste.
Place the liver in a circle in the middle of a hot dish.
Put the bacon round it, and strain the gravy over it.
Pigs' Fry, or Mock Goose.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of pigs' fry.
3 lb. of potatoes.
1 onion.
1 apple.
A little sage.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Boil the potatoes until half-cooked.
Then cut them in slices.
Cut the fry in small pieces.
Chop the onion and apple small.
Dry and powder the sage leaves.
Grease a pie-dish, and put a layer of sliced potatoes at the bottom.
Place on them a layer of pigs' fry.
Sprinkle it with some of the onion, apple, and powdered sage, pepper,
and salt.
Cover with another layer of potatoes; and put on that some more of the
fry.
Sprinkle again with the onion, apple, pepper, and salt.
Proceed in this way until the dish is full, letting the last layer be
potatoes.
Pour in half a pint of water; and cover the dish with a piece of pig's
caul, or paper spread with dripping.
Bake in a moderate oven for one hour and a half.
It may be served in the pie-dish, or on a hot dish.
Mock Goose another way.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of pigs' fry.
Some dried and powdered sage.
Chopped apple and onion.
¾ pint of cider.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Cut the fry in slices.
Thread the pieces on a long skewer.
Lay it on a greased baking-tin, and sprinkle with the onion, apple,
sage, pepper, and salt, and cover with the caul.
Bake in a moderate oven until tender.
Then place the fry on a hot dish, and remove the skewer.
Make the cider boiling, and pour over the fry.
Tripe and Onions.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of tripe.
3 good-sized onions.
2½ pints of milk.
2 oz. of flour.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Put the tripe into cold water, and bring it to the boil; this
is to blanch it.
Blanch the onions likewise, then throw the water away, and cut the tripe
into neat pieces.
Put them in the milk, with the onions cut in halves, and pepper and
salt.
Stew gently for an hour.
Then take out the onions and chop them.
Remove the tripe, and put it on a hot dish.
Make a thickening of flour, and boil it well in the milk, and add the
chopped onions.
Dish the tripe in a circle, and pour the milk and onions over.
Tripe may be cooked more economically by substituting water for milk.
Stewed Tripe.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of tripe.
1 quart of brown sauce (_see_ Sauces).
_Method._--Blanch the tripe, as in the preceding recipe.
Simmer gently in brown sauce for two hours.
Dish in a circle, with the brown sauce poured over.
Broiled Steak.
Make the gridiron hot, and rub it with fat.
Lay the steak on it.
Place the gridiron close to a clear fire for about two minutes until the
heat has scaled up that side of the steak.
Then turn it on to the other side, and let that remain close to the fire
for the same length of time.
Then remove it further from the fire and cook more gradually, turning
occasionally. It takes from ten to fifteen minutes to cook, according to
the thickness of the steak.
Broiled Chop.
Cook like a steak. It will take from seven to ten minutes to cook. Serve
very hot.
Fried Steak.
Make the frying-pan quite hot.
Put a little butter or fat in it, and make that quite hot also.
Put in the steak, and fry it over a quick fire for two minutes on one
side, then turn it on to the other.
Moderate the heat applied, and cook gently for about twenty minutes,
turning occasionally.
Savoury Roast.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of rump or beefsteak, cut thin.
Some veal, or sage-and-onion, stuffing.
¾ oz. of flour.
1 cup of boiling water.
_Method._--Lay the stuffing on the steak, roll it round it, and tie it
with twine.
Place it in a pie-dish.
Pour the boiling water over it, and place another pie-dish, inverted, at
the top of it.
Put it in a moderate oven for two or three hours, until the steak is
tender.
Then put the steak on a hot dish.
Thicken the gravy with the flour and pour it over.
Breast of veal may be boned, and stuffed with veal stuffing and cooked
in the same way.
Shoulder of Mutton Boned, Stuffed, and Rolled.
_Ingredients_--1 shoulder of mutton.
Some veal stuffing, or sausage meat.
_Method._--Remove the bone carefully, and place some stuffing in the
place of it.
Roll up the mutton, and tie it firmly with twine.
It may be roasted, baked, or braised.
If braised, prepare it according to the directions given for braised
breast of veal, using a large kettle, if a braising pan is not
obtainable.
Braised Breast of Veal.
_Ingredients_--3 or 4 lb. of breast of veal.
Some veal stuffing.
Some good second stock.
Carrot, turnip, onion.
Sprig of parsley, thyme, marjoram.
1 bay leaf.
_Method._--Remove the bones from the veal, and put the stuffing in it.
Roll the veal round it, and sew it or tie it securely with twine.
Put the vegetables, cut in small pieces, in the bottom of a stewpan.
Place the veal on them, and pour in sufficient stock to come half-way up
it.
Put the lid on the stewpan, simmer gently until the veal is quite
tender, allowing half an hour to each pound and half an hour over.
Then put the veal on a baking-sheet, and put in a quick oven to brown.
Strain the stock into a large stewpan, and boil it rapidly down to a
glaze.
Put the veal on a hot dish, remove the string, and pour the glaze over
it.
Place round the veal some carrot and turnip, cut in fancy shapes and
cooked separately.
Toad-in-the-Hole.
_Ingredients_--8 oz. of flour.
2 eggs.
1 pint of milk.
1½ lb. of ox kidney.
A little salt.
_Method._--Put the flour into a basin.
Make a well in the middle.
Put in the eggs; mix gradually.
Add the milk by degrees.
Beat well, and add the salt.
Cut the kidney in pieces, lay them in a well-greased Yorkshire-pudding
tin; and pour the batter over.
Bake from one and a quarter to one and a half hours.
Irish Stew.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of potatoes.
1 lb. of scrag end of mutton.
½ lb. of onions.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Peel and slice the potatoes and onions, and cut the meat into
small pieces.
Put a layer of meat in the bottom of a saucepan, then a layer of
potatoes, then one of onions.
Season with pepper and salt, and continue placing the ingredients in the
saucepan in alternate layers.
Pour in half a pint of water and stew gently, stirring occasionally, for
about one hour and a half.
Sea Pie.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of steak.
2 onions.
1 carrot.
1 small turnip.
¾ lb. of flour.
¼ lb. of suet.
1 teaspoonful of baking powder.
Pepper and salt to taste.
Cold water.
_Method._--Cut the vegetables and meat small, season them with pepper
and salt, and put them into a large saucepan.
Put it by the side of the fire for the contents to simmer gently.
Chop the suet finely, add it to the flour and baking powder, and mix
with cold water to a stiff paste. Roll it to the size of the saucepan.
Place it over the meat, and simmer gently for two hours.
For serving, remove the crust with a fish slice, put the meat and
vegetables on to a hot dish, and place the crust on them.
Roast Bullock's Heart.
_Ingredients_--1 bullock's heart.
Some veal stuffing (double the quantity given in the
recipe).
_Method._--Wash the heart in salt and water, and cleanse it thoroughly.
Wipe it quite dry.
Cut off the flaps and fill the cavities with the stuffing.
Grease a piece of paper with dripping, and tie it firmly over the top of
the heart to keep in the forcemeat.
Roast it according to the directions for roasting meat; it will take
about two hours.
Gravy for the Heart.
_Ingredients_--1 pint of stock.
The trimmings from the heart.
1 onion.
1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
A little Harvey's sauce or catsup.
A little burnt sugar, if necessary, for colouring.
_Method._--Put the trimmings into a saucepan with the onion and water,
and simmer gently while the heart is cooking.
Then melt the butter in a stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly; add the liquor strained.
Stir and boil three minutes; add the sauce, pepper and salt, and
colouring.
Put the heart on a hot dish, remove the paper, and pour the gravy round
it.
If preferred, the heart may be baked.
SAUCES.
Sauces are often failures, chiefly because they are not made of a proper
consistency; and because the flour in them is not sufficiently cooked.
It should be remembered that the starch in flour wants to be _well
boiled_, otherwise it will be indigestible, and the sauce will have a
raw, pasty taste. A sauce is not ready when it _thickens_, but should be
boiled for quite three minutes. Its consistency should depend on what it
is to be used for. Ordinary sauces, served in a sauce tureen, should be
fairly thick; the proportions taken should be 1 oz. of butter; ¾ oz. of
flour; ½ pint of milk. If the sauce is to be used to coat anything very
thinly (new potatoes, for example), ½ oz. of flour, instead of ¾ oz.,
would be sufficient. If a sauce is required to entirely mask a small
piece of fish, or chicken, &c., 1 oz. of flour should be used, with the
proportions of milk and butter already given. Every ingredient should be
properly weighed or measured. Carelessness in this respect is a mark of
ignorance, and _must_ occasion failures.
For making most of the ordinary sauces, the butter is melted first in a
small stewpan, care being taken that it does not discolour; the flour is
then mixed with it. If the mixing is not perfect, the sauce will be
lumpy. The milk, stock, or water, is then poured in, and the sauce is
stirred _one way_, until it has boiled three minutes. If cream is used,
it is then added, and allowed just to boil in the sauce.
In making economical sauces, when less butter and flour are used (_see_
Economical Family Sauce), the method employed is different. The flour is
then mixed very smoothly with a little of the milk, water, or whatever
is used, and then added to the remainder, which may be cold or boiling;
but greater care is required to keep it smooth when the liquid is poured
in boiling.
English Melted Butter.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. of butter.
¾ oz. of flour.
½ pint of water.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly.
Add the water; stir and cook well.
Then add pepper and salt, and it is ready to serve.
Plain White Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. of butter.
¾ oz. of flour.
½ pint of milk.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly.
Add the milk.
Stir and cook well.
Then add the lemon juice and seasoning.
A little cream may also be added if desired.
Maître d'Hôtel Sauce.
_Ingredients_--¾ oz. of butter.
½ oz. of flour.
½ pint of milk.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
A teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
_Method._--Melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly.
Add the milk; stir and cook well.
Then add the lemon juice, seasoning, and chopped parsley.
Mayonnaise Sauce.
_Ingredients_--2 yolks of eggs.
1 gill of salad oil.
2 tablespoonfuls of taragon vinegar.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Put the yolks, which must be perfectly free from the whites,
into a basin, which in summer time should be placed on ice.
Work them well with a whisk or wooden spoon, adding the oil drop by
drop.
When the sauce is so thick that the whisk, or spoon, is moved with
difficulty, the oil may be added more quickly, but still very gradually.
Lastly, add the taragon vinegar and seasoning.
_Note._--Success in making this sauce depends on first dividing the
yolks completely from the whites. Secondly, in keeping them and the oil
quite cold. Thirdly, on adding the oil, drop by drop, until the sauce is
perfectly thick. If the sauce is made in a warm place, or the oil mixed
in too quickly, it is apt to curdle. Should this occur, put a yolk in
another basin and very slowly add the sauce to it, stirring briskly;
this will generally make it smooth again. Two yolks will be sufficient
for any quantity of sauce, taragon vinegar being added in proportion to
the oil used.
Tartare Sauce.
_Ingredients_--2 yolks.
¼ pint of salad oil.
2 tablespoonfuls of taragon vinegar.
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
A few capers, or a chopped gherkin.
Pepper and salt.
If liked, a teaspoonful of ready-made mustard.
_Method._--Proceed as in making Mayonnaise Sauce; adding when the sauce
is ready the parsley, capers, mustard, and seasoning.
Egg Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. of butter.
¾ oz. of flour.
½ pint of milk.
Lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
1 or 2 hard-boiled eggs.
_Method._--Melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly.
Add the milk, and stir and cook well.
Then add the lemon juice, seasoning, and the chopped whites of the eggs.
If a very thick sauce is required, take 1 oz. of flour. Cream may be
added if desired.
Brown Sauce.
_Ingredients_--2 oz. of butter.
1½ oz. of flour.
A small piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
A few button mushrooms.
1 pint of good stock.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Seasoning to taste.
_Method._--Put the butter into a stewpan and fry the vegetables in it.
Then mix in the flour and fry that.
Add the stock; stir and cook well.
Squeeze in the lemon juice, and add the seasoning.
Strain through a tammy-cloth or fine strainer.
Genoise Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. of butter.
¾ oz. of flour.
1½ gills of stock.
½ wineglass of port.
A tiny piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
½ teaspoonful of anchovy sauce.
½ teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Melt the butter in a small stewpan, and fry the vegetables in
it.
Then add the flour, and fry that.
Pour in the stock; stir and cook well.
Then add the wine and other ingredients,
Stir until it boils again, and then strain it.
Béchamel Sauce.
_Ingredients_--2 oz. of butter.
1½ oz. of flour.
1 pint of good white stock.
¼ pint of cream.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Melt the butter in a stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly.
Add the stock.
Stir and cook well.
Then stir in the cream; let it boil in the sauce; and add lemon juice,
pepper, and salt.
Strain through a tammy-cloth.
Milk may be substituted for the white stock, if more convenient. To
flavour it, a small piece of carrot, turnip, and onion, and 6 button
mushrooms should be boiled in it.
Sauce Hollandaise.
_Ingredients_--¼ pint of plain white sauce.
The yolks of 4 eggs.
A little cayenne pepper and salt.
A few drops of lemon juice, or taragon vinegar.
_Method._--Put the white sauce and eggs into a jug, which must be placed
in a saucepan of boiling water.
Stir until the mixture thickens, being careful it does not curdle.
When quite ready, add the lemon juice or vinegar.
Lobster Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 small lobster.
Some spawn.
1½ oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
½ pint of milk.
½ gill of cream.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Remove the flesh from the body and claws of the lobster, and
cut it in small pieces.
Then boil the shell, broken small, in the milk.
Rub the spawn with ¼ oz. butter through a hair sieve.
Melt the remaining butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly, and then add the milk, strained.
Stir until it thickens.
Put in the spawn and butter, and continue stirring until the flour is
well cooked.
Then add the cream--let it boil in the sauce--and lastly, the lemon
juice, pepper and salt, and lobster.
Lobster Sauce (a plainer Receipt).
_Ingredients_--Part of a tin of lobster.
1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
¾ pint of milk.
A few drops of lemon juice, or ½ a teaspoonful of vinegar.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Cut up the lobster.
Melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly.
Add the milk; stir and cook well.
Then add the lemon juice, seasoning, and pieces of lobster.
Shrimp Sauce.
Remove the heads, tails, and skin from half a pint of shrimps; prepare
some sauce as directed in the first or second recipe for lobster sauce,
substituting the shrimps for the lobster.
Oyster Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
½ pint of milk.
1 dozen of oysters.
½ gill of cream.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Salt, pepper, and a little cayenne.
_Method._--Remove the beard and white part of the oysters, and cut each
one in two.
Strain the liquor through muslin, and scald the oysters in it (_i.e._
put the liquor, with the oysters in it, in a saucepan, and just bring it
to the boil).
Put the beards and hard white parts in the milk and simmer them to
extract the flavour.
Then melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly.
Strain in the milk and oyster liquor, and stir and cook well.
Then add cream, and stir until the sauce again boils.
Lastly, add the oysters, pepper, salt, and lemon juice.
French Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. of butter.
½ oz. of flour.
1 gill of milk.
1 gill of cream.
The yolk of one egg.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix the flour smoothly.
Add the milk, stir and cook well.
Pour in the cream and let it boil in the sauce. Then take it off the
fire, and mix in the yolk of the egg.
Add pepper and salt to taste.
Celery Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
¾ pint of white stock or milk.
1 head of celery.
_Method._--Boil one head of celery in ¾ of a pint of white stock or
milk.
When tender, strain it from the liquor and rub it through a hair sieve.
Melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour smoothly.
Add the stock or milk; stir and cook well.
Pour in the cream, and stir until the sauce boils again.
Add pepper and salt to taste.
Tomato Sauce.
_Ingredients_--6 ripe tomatoes.
¼ lb. of bacon.
1 oz. of flour.
A piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
A sprig of parsley.
Thyme, marjoram, and a bay leaf.
A teaspoonful of vinegar.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Cut the bacon in slices and fry it.
Then put in the vegetables and fry them, dredge in the flour, and then
add the tomatoes and fry them lightly.
Empty the contents of the frying-pan on a hair sieve, and rub the
tomatoes through. The hair sieve will keep back the other vegetable, the
flavour of which only is wanted.
Add the vinegar and seasoning, and make the sauce hot.
Onion Sauce.
_Ingredients_--4 or 5 fair-sized onions.
½ pint of plain white sauce or melted butter (1st recipe).
_Method._--First, blanch the onions by putting them in cold water and
bringing it to the boil.
Throw the water away.
Put the onions in fresh water and boil for an hour, or an hour and a
half, until tender.
Chop them finely and add them to the sauce or melted butter.
Soubise Sauce.
_Ingredients_--½ pint of plain white sauce.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
4 or 5 onions.
_Method._--Blanch the onions (as in preceding recipe) and boil until
tender.
Then rub through a hair sieve.
Make some plain white sauce (_see_ recipe), and add to it the cream and
pulped onion.
Bread Sauce.
_Ingredients_--2 oz. of bread crumbs.
½ pint of milk.
6 peppercorns.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream, or ½ oz. of butter.
A small piece of onion.
_Method._--Steep the onion and peppercorns in the milk, and put the milk
on to boil.
Then remove the onions and peppercorns, and sprinkle in the crumbs.
Set the sauce by the side of the fire for six minutes, and then heat to
boiling point, adding either the cream or butter.
Salt must be added to taste; also a little cayenne.
Economical Family Sauce.
_Ingredients_--¼ lb. of flour.
1 pint of milk.
1 pint of water.
1½ oz. butter.
_Method._--Mix the flour very smoothly with a little water.
Put the rest of the water, with the milk and butter, in a saucepan on
the fire to boil.
When it boils, put in the flour, stirring until the sauce is cooked.
Add pepper and salt to taste. If liked, a few drops of lemon juice or
vinegar may be added.
This sauce will form the basis of many other plain sauces: To use with
fish, put in a tablespoonful of anchovy. Onion sauce is made by adding
cooked and chopped onions when the sauce is ready. Caper sauce, by
adding capers; or, as a substitute, chopped gherkin.
This sauce may be made still more economically by using water only
instead of milk.
Wine Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 oz. of lump sugar.
¼ pint of water.
A wineglass of sherry.
A few drops of cochineal.
A dessertspoonful of jam.
_Method._--Boil the sugar and water together until reduced to one half.
Add the jam; let it melt.
Then add the sherry and cochineal, and strain.
Piquant Sauce.
_Ingredients_--½ pint of brown sauce.
1 tablespoonful of capers.
1 tablespoonful of chopped gherkin.
1 tablespoonful of very finely chopped shalot.
¼ pint of vinegar.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Simmer the shalot, capers, and gherkin, in the vinegar until
the shalot is quite soft.
Pour in the sauce, and let it boil up.
Season to taste.
Sauce Réforme.
_Ingredients_--1 pint of brown sauce.
1 wineglass of port wine.
1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce.
1 teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce.
2 tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly.
_Method._--Boil all the ingredients together, and the sauce is ready.
Port-wine Sauce for Wild Duck.
_Ingredients_--2 wineglasses of port.
Juice of half a lemon.
1 finely chopped shalot.
_Method._--Boil altogether and strain.
Sweet Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 teaspoonful of arrowroot.
Juice of half a lemon and a little rind.
2 tablespoonfuls of castor sugar.
½ pint of water.
_Method._--Put the water with the lemon-rind and sugar into a saucepan
to boil.
Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water.
When the water in the saucepan boils, pour it in and stir it until it
thickens; then strain it and add the lemon juice.
A glass of sherry may be added to this sauce if desired.
German Sauce.
_Ingredients_--The yolks of 2 eggs.
1 wineglass of sherry.
1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar.
_Method._--Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and mill over the
fire with a whisk until the sauce froths.
For a _Christmas Pudding_ make the sauce with three yolks, and a
wineglass of brandy.
A Nice Sweet Sauce.
_Ingredients_--½ pint of plain white sauce or melted butter (omitting the
seasoning).
1 wineglass of sherry or brandy.
2 dessertspoonfuls of castor sugar.
_Method._--Add the wine and sugar to the sauce, and it is ready for use.
Jam Sauce.
_Ingredients_--3 tablespoonfuls of red jam.
½ pint of water.
1 oz. of lump sugar.
Juice of half a lemon.
_Method._--Boil the jam, sugar, and water together for three minutes.
Add the lemon juice, and strain.
The lemon may be omitted if the flavour is not liked.
Apple Sauce, No. 1.
_Ingredients_--6 good-sized apples.
1 oz. of butter.
1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, or more, according to taste.
½ gill of water.
_Method._--Wash the apples and slice them, but do not peel or core them.
Put them in a stewpan with the water, butter, and sugar.
Stew gently for about thirty minutes, stirring occasionally.
Rub them quickly through a hair sieve, and put the sauce in a hot
tureen.
The hair sieve keeps back the rind and pips.
Apple Sauce, No. 2.
_Ingredients_--6 large apples.
1 oz. of butter.
1 tablespoonful or more of moist sugar.
½ gill of water.
_Method._--Peel, core, and slice the apples.
Stew them with the water, sugar, and butter until tender.
Then beat to a pulp with a fork.
Mint Sauce.
_Ingredients_--3 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped fresh mint.
1 tablespoonful of sugar.
¼ pint of vinegar.
_Method._--Mix all together, and let the sauce stand for an hour before
serving.
Horse-radish Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 stick of horse-radish.
½ gill of cream.
1 tablespoonful of vinegar.
½ gill of milk.
1 teaspoonful of ready-made mustard.
1 teaspoonful of castor sugar.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Scrape the horse-radish finely, and mix with all the other
ingredients.
If cream is not to be had, use milk thickened with a little cornflour.
But it is not so good.
Gravy for Made Dishes.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of gravy beef.
1 quart of water.
A piece of onion, carrot, and turnip.
1 sprig of parsley.
Thyme and marjoram.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Cut the beef into small pieces.
Put it with the vegetables into a stewpan with the water, and simmer
very gently for four hours; then strain.
If a thick gravy is required, thicken with one and a half ounces of
flour; add pepper and salt to taste.
To this gravy may be added a little sauce, catsup, port or sherry wine,
&c., according to the purpose for which it is required.
Scraps of cooked meat and bones may be substituted for the fresh meat
where economy must be studied.
Glaze.
Boil down one or two quarts of second stock (which will jelly when cold)
until it is quite thick, and coats a spoon. One quart may be boiled down
to a quarter of a pint.
Pour it into a jar.
When wanted for use, put the jar to stand in a saucepan of boiling water
until it is dissolved.
Glaze is used for enriching gravies and soups, and for glazing meat.
Cheap Glaze for Meat.
_Ingredients_--3 teaspoonfuls of Liebig's Extract of Meat.
½ oz. of Nelson's or Swinborne's Gelatine, or isinglass.
Pepper and salt.
½ pint of cold water.
_Method._--Soak the gelatine in the water for three-quarters of an hour.
Add the meat extract, and pepper and salt.
Stir and boil until reduced to about a quarter of a pint.
This glaze can only be used for glazing meat.
Béarnaise Sauce.
_Ingredients_--1 finely-chopped shalot.
½ gill of white sauce.
1 tablespoonful of taragon vinegar.
The yolks of 4 eggs.
1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Put the shalot and vinegar into a saucepan; boil until the
vinegar has evaporated, but do not let the shalot burn.
Add the eggs and sauce, and mill with a whisk until the eggs are thick.
Add the parsley and pepper and salt.
BREAKFAST DISHES AND BEVERAGES.
Oatmeal Porridge.
_Ingredients_--½ lb. of coarse oatmeal.
1 quart of water.
_Method._--Put the water on to boil.
When boiling, sprinkle in the oatmeal, stirring all the time.
When it thickens, put it by the side of the fire, and stir occasionally.
Cook it for quite three-quarters of an hour, longer if possible.
When the time can be allowed, three hours will not be too long a time,
especially if the porridge is for anyone with a weak digestion.
A better plan is to put the saucepan containing it, after the contents
have boiled for ten minutes, to stand in a saucepan of briskly boiling
water; it will then cook without danger of burning, and may be left for
any length of time; care only being taken that the water in the under
saucepan does not boil away.
Whole-meal Porridge.
This may be made in the same way as oatmeal, but it requires even longer
cooking.
Dry Toast.
Cut the bread into rather thin slices, and remove the crust.
Toast it slowly, holding it at a little distance from a bright clear
fire.
When ready, put it at once into the rack; because, if the toast is
placed flat on a table, it loses its crispness.
The crusts may be soaked for plain puddings, or dried and powdered for
bread crumbs.
Buttered Toast.
Cut the bread about half an inch in thickness.
Toast quickly in front of a clear fire.
Put the butter on directly the toast is taken off the fork, and spread
it quickly.
Put the toast on a _hot_ plate, and take care that it is served hot.
Toasted Bacon.
Cut the bacon in thin slices, and toast it in a small Dutch oven or on a
toasting fork until the fat is transparent.
Fried Bacon.
Cut the bacon in thin slices, and fry it in its own fat. It will be
cooked when the fat is transparent. It must not be cooked too quickly,
or the fat will burn up and be wasted.
Eggs and Bacon.
Toast or fry the bacon, and lay a nicely poached egg on each slice.
Boiled Eggs.
Put the eggs into boiling water, and boil an ordinary sized egg for
three minutes; new-laid eggs will take one minute longer. Eggs boiled
five minutes will be nearly hard. To make them quite firm, boil them
steadily for ten minutes. To make them mealy, boil them for an hour.
Poached Eggs.
Eggs for poaching should be perfectly _fresh_, or they will not keep a
nice shape.
Let the water be quite boiling; add to it a little salt.
Break the eggs into cups, and slip them gently into the boiling water.
As soon as the white is nicely set, remove them with a fish slice.
Trim the eggs neatly, and serve them on hot buttered toast.
An egg-poacher will be found very convenient for cooking eggs this way.
Fried Kidneys.
_Ingredients_--A few kidneys.
A little butter or dripping.
A little flour.
Some gravy.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Split open the kidneys lengthwise.
Flour them and fry them slowly in the butter or dripping for about four
minutes.
Dish them on pieces of toast.
Pour the gravy into the pan; stir and boil for a minute, and then strain
round the kidneys.
Kidneys Toasted.
_Ingredients_--Some kidneys.
Toasted bread.
_Method._--Split open the kidneys lengthwise.
Toast them before a clear fire; when the gravy ceases to drop red they
will be sufficiently cooked.
A _hot_ dish should be placed under them to catch the gravy.
Place the toast on the dish and put the kidneys on it, and sprinkle over
them a little pepper and salt.
Stewed Kidneys.
_Ingredients_--2 or 3 kidneys.
½ pint of nice gravy.
1 dessertspoonful of flour.
Pepper and salt to taste.
Lemon juice.
_Method._--Mix the flour smoothly with the gravy.
Put it into a stewpan, and boil well for three minutes.
Put in the kidneys cut in slices, and simmer gently for about fifteen
minutes.
Add a squeeze of lemon juice; pepper and salt to taste.
Serve on a piece of toast, and pour the gravy over.
Stuffed Kidneys.
_Ingredients_--3 or 4 kidneys.
½ oz. of butter.
Half a shalot, chopped finely.
1 dessertspoonful of parsley.
1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs.
A few drops of lemon juice.
A little cayenne.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Toast or broil the kidneys and split them open.
Fry the shalot in the butter.
Mix in the bread crumbs and parsley; add lemon juice, cayenne pepper,
and salt.
Lay a little of the stuffing in each kidney and fold it over.
Serve very hot.
Kidneys à la Tartare.
_Ingredients_--A few kidneys.
½ pint of Tartare sauce.
_Method._--Split the kidneys open, and toast or broil them nicely.
Serve on toasted bread with Tartare sauce in a tureen.
Fried Sausages.
_Ingredients_--Sausages.
A little butter or dripping.
Some toasted bread.
_Method._--Prick the sausages with a fork, and fry them with butter or
dripping, turning them that they get browned equally.
Serve them on toasted bread, with some nice gravy in a sauceboat.
Some people like the toast soaked in the fat in the pan, but this is a
matter of taste.
Baked Sausages.
Prick the sausages, and place them on a greased baking-sheet.
Bake until they are nicely browned.
Serve on toast, with gravy in a sauceboat.
If liked, the toast can be soaked in the fat that runs from the
sausages.
Oxford Sausages.
Remove the sausage-meat from the skins, and place it in little rough
heaps on a greased baking-sheet.
Bake in a quick oven until browned.
Serve on toast.
Tomatoes stuffed with Sausage Meat.
_Ingredients_--Some nice ripe tomatoes.
Some sausage meat.
_Method._--Cut the stalks from the tomatoes, but do not take out any of
the inside.
Heap a little sausage meat on the top of each tomato.
Put them on a greased baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven for
about fifteen minutes.
Croustards with Minced Meat.
_Ingredients_--Some stale bread.
Scraps of cold meat.
A little nice gravy.
A little mushroom catsup.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Cut the bread into slices three-quarters of an inch in
thickness.
Stamp it into rounds with a circular cutter.
Mark the middle with a cutter two sizes smaller, and scoop out the
inside, making little nests of them, and taking care not to break the
bottom or sides.
Fry the cases in hot fat (_see_ French Frying); drain them and put them
inside the oven to keep hot.
Mince the meat nicely, removing skin and gristle.
Make a little gravy hot in a stewpan.
Put in the mince, and make it hot without letting it boil.
Flavour to taste with catsup, pepper and salt.
Fill the croustard cases and serve immediately: they should be placed on
a folded napkin, and garnished with parsley.
Mince à la Reine.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen mushrooms.
Some slices of cold meat.
(Cold game or chicken are excellent for this purpose).
6 eggs.
Some rounds of bread, toasted or fried.
1 pint of good gravy.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Peel the mushrooms.
Wash and dry them well, and cut them in slices.
Put them in a stewpan with part of the gravy, to stew for about thirty
minutes, until they are tender.
Mince the meat and make it hot in a saucepan, with enough gravy to
moisten it, adding pepper and salt to taste.
Poach the eggs nicely, and fry or toast the bread (fried bread is best).
Put the slices of fried bread on a hot dish; cover each piece with the
minced meat, and lay an egg on each.
Pour the gravy and mushrooms round, and serve very hot.
As a decoration, a tiny pinch of finely-chopped parsley might be put on
the top of each egg.
Sheep's Head Moulded.
_Ingredients_--1 sheep's head.
2 hard-boiled eggs.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Clean, and then boil the head until the flesh will leave the
bones easily.
Take out all the bones; cut the meat into pieces an inch in size, and
season them well with pepper and salt.
Cut the eggs into slices, and place them round the top of a cake-tin or
basin.
Put in the head, and put a weight on it to press it down.
When cold turn it out; serve garnished with parsley.
Veal Cake.
_Ingredients_--Remains of cooked veal.
Slices of ham.
2 or 3 hard-boiled eggs.
Some nice second stock.
A little gelatine.
Some forcemeat balls.
_Method._--Butter well a plain mould or basin.
Decorate it with slices of egg, and balls made of veal forcemeat.
Cut the ham and the veal into neat pieces.
Season them well with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little chopped
parsley.
Place them in the mould, and fill it up with stiff second stock.
If the stock is not stiff enough, mix with it a little melted gelatine.
Cover the mould, and bake for one hour in a moderate oven.
Let it get cold, and then turn it on to a dish.
Brawn.
_Ingredients_--1 pig's head.
2 or 3 hard-boiled eggs.
2 onions.
6 cloves.
1 blade of mace.
2 dozen peppercorns.
1 sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram.
_Method._--Clean the head well, and pickle it for three days (_see_
Pickle for Meat).
Then put it in enough cold water to cover it, and boil it gently for
three hours or more, until the flesh will leave the bones easily.
Take out the tongue, skin it, and cut it in slices.
Stamp them into fancy shapes with a paste cutter; wet a plain round
mould and decorate it with them and the eggs cut in slices.
Remove the meat from the bone, and cut it into large dice.
Take one quart of the liquor in which the head was boiled; put the bones
into it, with the peppercorns, cloves, onions, and herbs; boil down for
half an hour with the lid off the saucepan.
Then strain one pint of the broth into another saucepan.
Season the pieces of meat with pepper, and a little salt if necessary;
put them into the broth.
Let it come to the boil, and then pour it into the decorated mould.
When set, turn it on to a dish.
Scalloped Eggs.
_Ingredients_--Some eggs.
Bread-crumbs.
A little onion, chopped as finely as possible (this may be
omitted, if liked).
A little finely-chopped parsley.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Grease some deep scallop shells.
Dust them over with bread crumbs, mixed with the parsley and onion.
Put an egg into each shell, and sprinkle with more crumbs, parsley,
onion, pepper and salt.
Put them into a brisk oven until set.
Eggs sur le Plat.
_Ingredients_--4 eggs.
½ oz. of butter.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Take a dish that will stand the heat of the oven; melt the
butter in it.
Break the eggs on to it very carefully.
Pepper and salt them, and put them into the oven until they are set.
They must be served on the same dish.
Buttered Eggs.
_Ingredients_--1 piece of fried or toasted bread.
1 tablespoonful of gravy.
1 oz. of butter.
Pepper and salt.
4 eggs.
_Method._--Break the eggs into a basin, and add to them the gravy,
pepper, and salt.
Melt the butter in a small frying or omelet pan; pour in the eggs, and
stir quickly up from the bottom of the pan, until the whole is a soft
yellow mass.
Spread on the toast, and serve very quickly.
Egg Croustards.
_Ingredients_--Some slices of stale bread, about ¾ inch in thickness.
Some eggs.
Some nicely-flavoured gravy.
_Method._--Stamp out some rounds of bread with a circular paste-cutter.
Mark the middle with one a size smaller.
Then with a knife scoop out the inside, making little nests of bread,
taking care not to break the bottom or sides.
Fry these cases in hot fat (_see_ French Frying).
When fried, drain them on kitchen paper, and keep them hot.
Make some water boiling hot in a stewpan; add to it a little lemon
juice.
Put into it the eggs broken gently into cups.
Poach until the whites are set, then remove them carefully with a fish
slice, and put an egg into each croustard.
Place them on a hot dish, and pour gravy boiling hot over them.
Eggs and Anchovy.
_Ingredients_--2 eggs.
1 slice of fried or toasted bread.
A little anchovy paste.
1 oz. of butter.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Let the fried or toasted bread be quite hot (fried bread is
the best), and spread it thinly with anchovy paste.
Make the butter quite hot in a frying or omelet pan.
Break the eggs into it, add pepper and salt, and stir very quickly,
until they are a soft yellow mass.
Spread it quickly over the toast, and serve immediately.
Eggs in Cases.
_Ingredients_--4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.
1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
Pepper and salt.
If liked, a boiled onion very finely chopped.
6 eggs.
6 paper cases.
_Method._--Butter well some paper cases; mix the crumbs, parsley, onion,
pepper, and salt together; put a little at the bottom of each case.
Break the eggs gently, and put one egg into each case.
Cover each with some of the crumbs and seasoning, and put the cases in a
quick oven to bake until the eggs are set.
Broiled Mushrooms.
Choose nice large mushrooms; peel and wash them, and wipe them dry.
Cut out the stems, and put them, with the top of the mushrooms
downwards, on a gridiron.
Put a small piece of butter on each, and broil for ten minutes slowly.
Remove them carefully, as the mushrooms will be by that time full of
delicious gravy.
Broiled Dried Haddock.
Soak it in cold water for an hour before using.
Broil it slowly over a clear fire until it is quite hot, turning
occasionally.
Rub some butter over it, and serve it at once.
Bloaters.
Cut the bloaters open down the back, and bone them.
Lay them one on the other with the insides together.
Broil them slowly over a clear fire, turning occasionally.
Serve very hot, with a little butter rubbed over them.
If preferred, they may be broiled unboned.
Red Herrings.
Remove their heads and tails.
Slit them open down the back and remove the bone.
Egg and bread-crumb them, and broil them over a clear fire.
If preferred, they may be broiled unboned.
Tea.
Measure a teaspoonful of tea for each person, and one teaspoonful over.
Make the teapot quite hot by filling it with boiling water; let it stand
in it for three minutes; then empty the teapot.
Put in the tea, and pour boiling water over it.
Cover it with a tea-cosy, and let it infuse for five minutes before
using. The longer it stands, the darker it will get; but for people of
weak digestions, it should be used after five minutes' infusion only.
The water should be fresh spring water, and should be used as soon as it
boils. Water that has been boiled for any length of time is flat from
the loss of its gases.
Coffee.
To have coffee to perfection it should be freshly roasted and ground, as
coffee quickly loses its flavour. If this is not possible, use the best
French coffee sold in tins. The water should be freshly boiled; the
coffee itself should _not_ be _boiled_, but only infused in the boiling
water. Boiling disperses the aroma. It can, however, be made more
economically if boiled, and therefore recipes are given for its
preparation in this manner. Chicory is generally used with coffee in the
proportion of two ounces of chicory to one pound of coffee.
Coffee (Soyer's method.)
_Ingredients_--3 oz. of coffee.
1 pint of boiling water.
_Method._--Put the coffee into a clean stewpan.
Stir over the fire until it smokes, but do not let it burn.
Then pour in the boiling water.
Cover close, and set by the side of the fire for ten minutes.
Strain through thick muslin.
Coffee (another method).
_Ingredients_--3 oz. of coffee.
1½ pint of boiling water.
_Method._--Make a jug hot.
Put the coffee in it, and pour over the boiling water.
Let it stand in a hot place for half an hour.
Then strain through thick muslin.
Café au Lait.
Half fill a cup with nicely-made coffee, and pour in the same quantity
of boiled milk.
Coffee (economical method).
_Ingredients_--¾ lb. of coffee.
2 quarts of cold water.
_Method._--Make a bag of rather thick muslin, and put the coffee into
it. The bag should be rather large, so that the coffee will have plenty
of room.
Tie the ends of the bag securely.
Put it into a saucepan with the water; bring to the boil, and boil
steadily for one hour.
Strain through thick muslin.
This will make strong coffee, which can be diluted with boiling water as
required.
Coffee made in a Percolator.
_Ingredients_--3 oz. of coffee.
1½ pint of boiling water.
_Method._--Make the percolator hot.
Put the coffee in it, and pour on the boiling water.
Let it stand in a hot place for about ten minutes.
Cocoa.
This is best, especially for invalids, if prepared from the nibs; these
should be perfectly fresh.
Put a quarter of a pound of nibs into two quarts of cold water; simmer
for five hours and then strain.
When cold remove the fat; heat it as required.
Cocoa may also be made from any of the different preparations.
Make it according to directions given on the canisters, and be very
careful to mix it thoroughly. Nothing is so unpleasant as to have the
sides and bottom of the cup coated with cocoa.
It is better to prepare it in a small saucepan; it should be boiled for
two or three minutes.
It is more nourishing if mixed with milk instead of water.
Chocolate.
This is only a thicker preparation of cocoa, and may be made in the same
way.
COLD MEAT COOKERY.
Hash.
_Ingredients_--The remains of cold meat.
Some nice stock or gravy.
Flour, in the proportion of ½ oz. to every ½ pint of gravy.
Pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little catsup, or Harvey's
sauce.
Toasted or fried bread.
_Method._--Cut the meat into neat pieces.
Mix the flour smoothly with the gravy, and boil for three minutes,
stirring all the time.
Add seasoning and catsup or a little sauce.
Then put the pieces of meat into the gravy and let them warm through;
but do not let the gravy _boil_ when the meat is in it, as that would
toughen it.
Tinned oysters make a nice addition to a hash.
For serving, put the hash on a hot dish and garnish with sippets of
fried or toasted bread.
If no gravy or stock is available, make some by breaking up any bones
from the meat; boil them in a sufficient quantity of water, with a piece
of carrot, turnip, onion, celery, and a small bunch of herbs.
Boil for quite an hour, and then strain the liquor.
Minced Meat.
_Ingredients_--Some scraps of cold meat.
A little gravy.
Some boiled rice or potatoes.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Mince the meat finely with a knife, or mincing machine (the
flavour is nicer if a knife is used).
Mix with sufficient gravy to moisten the meat, and stir over the fire
until hot; but do not let the gravy boil.
Serve with a border of boiled rice, or mashed potatoes round it.
If veal or chicken is minced, squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice, and
serve with sliced lemon.
A little cooked ham should be added to these minces, to give them
flavour; minced beef is improved by the addition of a few oysters.
Mince (with Eggs).
Prepare some mince, as in preceding recipe, and serve with very nicely
poached eggs on the top of it; garnish with sippets of fried or toasted
bread.
Curry of Cold Meat.
_Ingredients_--Some scraps of cold meat.
Some stock or gravy.
Curry powder and flour in the proportion of a
dessertspoonful of each to every half pint of gravy.
1 small onion.
1 small apple.
½ oz. of dripping.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Salt.
Some boiled rice.
_Method._--Slice the onion and apple, and fry them in the dripping.
When fried, rub them lightly through a hair sieve.
Mix the curry powder and flour smoothly with the stock.
Stir and cook well over the fire.
Add the onion, apple, lemon juice, and salt.
Then lay in the meat, and let it warm through, being careful that the
sauce does not boil.
Serve with nicely boiled rice.
Shepherd's Pie.
_Ingredients_--Slices of cold meat.
Boiled potatoes.
Butter or dripping.
A little gravy.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Season the pieces of meat with pepper and salt, and lay them
in a pie-dish with a little gravy.
Mash the potatoes smoothly with butter or dripping; and pepper and salt
to taste.
Spread the potatoes over the meat in the form of a pie-crust, and smooth
them with a knife dipped in hot water.
Bake for half an hour.
Patties.
_Ingredients_--Some scraps of cold meat.
A little gravy.
Pepper and salt.
Pastry.
1 egg.
_Method._--Mince the meat and moisten with the gravy, adding pepper and
salt to taste.
If veal or chicken are used, mince a little ham with them, and add a few
drops of lemon juice.
Roll out the pastry, and stamp it into rounds with a fluted cutter.
Lay half the rounds on greased pattypans.
Brush round the edges of the paste with a little beaten egg, and put a
little mince on each round.
Cover them with the remaining rounds of paste, pressing the edges
lightly together.
Glaze with the beaten egg, and bake in a quick oven for about 15
minutes.
Fritters.
_Ingredients_--Some cold meat.
Some nice gravy.
Some Kromesky batter.
_Method._--Cut the meat into neat pieces; dip them in the batter and fry
in hot fat until lightly browned (_see_ French Frying).
Pile on a hot dish, and serve, if possible, with a nice gravy poured
round them.
Rissoles.
_Ingredients_--Some boiled potatoes.
Cold meat.
A little butter.
2 eggs.
Bread-crumbs.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Take equal quantities of boiled potatoes and cold meat.
Mash the potatoes with butter, and add the meat finely minced.
Mix this thoroughly with a beaten egg, adding pepper and salt to taste.
Form into balls or egg shapes.
Egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in hot fat (_see_ French Frying).
Dish on a folded napkin, and garnish with fried parsley.
Cold Meat with Purée of Tomatoes.
_Ingredients_--Slices of cold meat.
4 or 5 tomatoes.
1 small slice of bacon.
1 bay leaf.
1 piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
1 sprig of parsley.
Thyme and marjoram.
1 teaspoonful of vinegar.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Cut the bacon into dice, and fry it.
As soon as the fat melts, put in the tomatoes and other vegetables, cut
in slices; stir them, and fry lightly, and then rub through a hair
sieve.
Add the vinegar and pepper and salt.
Make the _purée_ hot in a saucepan, and lay the pieces of meat in it to
warm through.
Serve in a hot dish, with a border of boiled rice or macaroni.
Cold-meat Pie.
_Ingredients_--Slices of cold meat.
(If liked, slices of cold boiled potatoes).
Some stock or gravy.
Pepper and salt.
Some plain pastry.
_Method._--Roll out the paste, and cut a piece large enough for the
cover.
Roll out the scraps, and from them cut a band an inch wide.
Wet the edge of the dish and place this round it.
Season the meat with pepper and salt, and lay the slices in the dish
alternately with the potatoes.
Raise them in the middle of the dish in a dome-like shape, and pour in
some gravy.
Wet the edges of the band of paste, and lay the cover over.
Trim round neatly, and make a hole in the middle of the crust.
Brush over with beaten egg, and decorate with paste leaves.
Bake in a quick oven for half an hour.
Cold Meat and Macaroni.
_Ingredients_--Slices of cold meat.
Macaroni.
Stock.
Bread-crumbs.
And, if possible, 2 or 3 tomatoes.
_Method._--Put the macaroni in boiling water, and boil it 20 minutes.
Then pour away the water, and stew it in the stock until tender.
Put a layer of macaroni in the bottom of a greased pie-dish.
Lay on it the meat, and cover it with another layer of macaroni,
seasoning with pepper and salt.
Proceed in this way, until the dish is full (the top layer must be
macaroni).
If tomatoes are used, slice them, and lay over the top; sprinkle with
brown crumbs, and bake for about 20 or 30 minutes.
Mayonnaise of Cold Meat.
_Ingredients_--Slices of cold meat.
Green salad.
Beetroot.
Hard-boiled egg.
Some Mayonnaise sauce.
_Method._--Slice the salad, and mix the meat with it.
Heap it high on a glass or silver dish.
Garnish with beetroot and hard-boiled egg, and pour Mayonnaise sauce
over (_see_ Sauces).
Beef and Mushrooms.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. cold roast beef.
1 dozen mushrooms.
1 shalot or small onion, very finely chopped.
2 oz. of butter.
½ pint of beef gravy.
1 dessertspoonful of vinegar.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Cut the beef into neat slices, and wash and peel the
mushrooms.
Season the meat with pepper and salt, and lay half of it in the bottom
of a pie-dish.
Place some of the mushrooms on the top of it.
Put 1 oz. of butter, in pieces, about them.
Then put in the remaining pieces of beef, and the mushrooms and butter
in the same way.
Pour in the gravy and vinegar, and cover closely.
Put it into a moderate oven to bake for three-quarters of an hour.
Beef Scalloped.
_Ingredients_--Some cold roast beef minced.
1 boiled onion, very finely chopped.
Some mashed potatoes.
Butter.
Pepper and salt.
1 egg.
A little gravy and mushroom catsup.
_Method._--Mince the beef finely, and moisten it with a little nice
gravy.
Add the onion to it, and season nicely with catsup.
Mix the mashed potatoes with plenty of butter, and the egg well beaten,
pepper and salt.
Place the mince in greased scallop shells, and cover with the potatoes.
Bake in a quick oven until lightly browned.
When economy has to be studied, leave out the eggs and substitute
clarified dripping for the butter. The mixture can be baked in a
pie-dish, if more convenient.
Cold Beef Olives.
_Ingredients_--Some cold roast beef.
Some veal forcemeat, omitting the suet.
Some gravy.
Flour.
Pepper and salt.
Some mashed potatoes.
_Method._--Take slices of cold beef, and cut them into strips 1½ inches
in width.
Lay on each a little veal stuffing; roll them round it, and tie them
with string.
Put them into a stewpan close together; pour the gravy over them, and
simmer them gently for ten minutes.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Thicken the gravy with a little flour, and pour it over them.
ENTRÉES.
Quenelles of Veal.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of fillet of veal.
1 oz. of butter.
2 oz. of flour.
1 gill of water.
A few drops of lemon juice.
2 eggs.
Seasoning.
_Method._--Scrape the veal finely.
Melt the butter in a saucepan; mix in the flour.
Then add the water and cook well.
Put this panada into a mortar with the veal, eggs, lemon juice, and
seasoning, and pound thoroughly.
Then rub through a wire sieve.
Shape the mixture somewhat like eggs with dessertspoons and a knife
dipped in hot water.
Poach them gently in a greased frying-pan, or _sauté_ pan, for ten
minutes.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes, and pour white sauce over
them.
Garnish with chopped truffle and ham.
Cooked green peas, mushrooms, or other vegetables, may be placed in the
centre.
Mutton Cutlets à la Macédoine.
_Ingredients_--Part of best end of neck of mutton.
1 egg.
Bread-crumbs.
3 oz. of clarified butter.
Seasoning.
_Method._--Saw off the chine bone, and the ends of the rib bones,
leaving the cutlet bone three inches in length.
Cut the cutlets with a bone to each, and beat them with a cutlet bat to
about half an inch in thickness.
Trim them, and leave half an inch of the rib bone bare.
Season, egg and bread-crumb, and fry in clarified butter in a _sauté_
pan for five or seven minutes.
Dish on a border of mashed potatoes, put a _macédoine_ of vegetables in
the centre, and pour brown sauce round them.
Mutton Cutlets à la Rachel.
_Ingredients_--Some mutton cutlets.
_Foie gras._
Brown sauce.
_Macédoine_ of vegetables.
Mashed potatoes.
Truffle.
Pigs' caul.
_Method._--Plainly fry some mutton cutlets, coat one side of each cutlet
with the _foie gras_, smoothing it with a knife dipped in hot water.
Lay a small piece of truffle on each cutlet and cover them with pigs'
caul.
Put them on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven for about a quarter of an
hour.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour brown sauce round them, and put a _macédoine_ of vegetables in the
middle.
Epigrammes.
_Ingredients_--The rib part, which was sawn off the mutton cutlets.
Egg and bread-crumbs.
_Method._--Boil the mutton until the bones can be easily removed.
Press it, and, when cold, cut it into cutlets or other shapes.
Egg and bread-crumb twice, and fry in hot fat (345°) in a frying-basket.
Dish on a border of mashed potatoes, and pour brown sauce round them.
Any cooked vegetables can be put in the centre for a garnish.
Chicken Croquettes.
_Ingredients_--2 oz. of cooked chicken.
1 oz. of cooked ham.
1 oz. of butter.
¾ oz. of flour.
1 gill of stock.
½ gill of cream.
6 button mushrooms.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Seasoning.
Pastry.
_Method._--Mince the chicken, ham, and mushrooms.
Melt the butter in a small stewpan.
Mix in the flour.
Pour in the stock, and cook well.
Then add cream, lemon juice, and seasoning; lastly, the chicken, ham,
and mushrooms.
Spread on a plate to cool.
Roll out some paste as thin as possible.
Cut into rounds.
Put a little of the mixture on each, and egg round the edges.
Fold them over, egg and bread-crumb the _croquettes_, and fry in a
frying-basket in hot fat (_see_ French Frying).
Garnish with fried parsley.
Veal Cutlets à la Talleyrand.
_Ingredients_--7 or 8 veal cutlets.
1½ oz. butter.
3 button mushrooms, chopped.
1 small shalot, chopped.
A teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
The yolks of 2 eggs.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
A few drops of lemon juice.
1 gill of white sauce (_see_ Sauces).
Some mashed potatoes.
A few green peas.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Fry the cutlets in the butter, sprinkling the mushroom,
shalot, and parsley under and over them.
When the cutlets are cooked, remove them from the pan and pour in the
white sauce and cream.
Stir briskly over the fire.
Then add the yolks of the eggs; let them thicken in the sauce, but be
careful not to curdle them.
Take the pan off the fire, and add the lemon juice and seasoning as
required.
Dish the cutlets on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour the sauce over them, and put a few nicely cooked peas, or other
appropriate vegetables, in the middle.
Fillets of Beef à la Béarnaise.
_Ingredients_--7 or 8 nice little fillets.
1½ oz. of butter.
Mashed potatoes.
½ pint of brown sauce (_see_ Sauces), or good gravy.
Some good _Béarnaise_ sauce (_see_ Sauces).
_Method._--Fry the fillets in the butter.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour brown sauce or gravy round them, and put the _Béarnaise_ sauce in
the middle of the fillets.
Rabbits à la Tartare.
_Ingredients_--1 rabbit.
Some browned bread-crumbs.
1 egg.
½ pint of Tartare sauce (_see_ Sauces).
_Method._--Cut the rabbit into joints.
Dry them well.
Egg and bread-crumb them.
Put them on a greased baking-sheet, with pieces of butter on them.
Bake for half an hour, being careful not to dry them up too much.
Pour the sauce on a dish and pile up the rabbit in the middle of it.
Chicken à la Tartare.
Proceed as in the foregoing recipe, substituting a chicken for a rabbit.
Pigeons Stewed à l'Italienne.
_Ingredients_--3 pigeons.
1 piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
1 pint of stock.
1 sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram.
1 bay leaf.
If possible, 1 or 2 tomatoes.
1 wineglass of sherry.
2 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
Some mashed potatoes.
A _macédoine_ of vegetables.
_Method._--Have the pigeons trussed as for stewing.
Cut them in two, and fry them in the butter.
Then remove the pigeons, and fry the vegetables.
Stir the flour, and when that is a little brown, pour in the stock or
sherry. Put in the pigeons and stew gently until they are tender.
Dish them in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes.
Strain the gravy over, and put a _macédoine_ of vegetables in the
centre.
Croustards à la Reine.
_Ingredients_--Some puff pastry.
A little _quenelle_ meat (_see_ Quenelles of Veal).
1 gill of white sauce.
3 oz. of cold chicken minced.
1 oz. of cooked ham minced.
2 or 3 button mushrooms finely chopped.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
A little thick white sauce.
Ham or truffle for decoration.
_Method._--Line some little tartlet tins with some puff paste, put a
piece of dough in each, and bake them.
Mix the chicken, ham, and mushrooms with the white sauce and cream. Add
pepper and salt to taste.
Remove the paste cases from the tins, take the dough from the middle,
and fill them with the chicken mixture.
Cover the top of each with the _quenelle_ meat spread like butter, put
them into the oven for a few minutes to cook the _quenelle_ meat.
When dishing them up, spread a little thick white sauce on the top of
each, and ornament them with ham and truffle.
Sweetbreads à la Béchamel.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen lambs' heart sweetbreads.
1¼ pint of veal stock.
1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
A small piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
1 sprig of parsley.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
A slice of lean ham.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Some mashed potatoes.
A few green peas nicely boiled.
A little finely-chopped cooked ham.
Some parsley or truffle.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Trim the sweetbreads, and soak them in cold water for two
hours.
Then throw them into boiling water, and simmer them gently for five
minutes.
Soak them again in cold water for twenty minutes.
Then put them in a stewpan with the stock, carrot, turnip, onion,
parsley, and ham.
Simmer gently until the sweetbreads are quite tender.
Then remove them, and add to the stock the flour mixed thoroughly with
butter.
Stir and boil well, to cook the flour.
Add the cream, lemon juice, and seasoning.
Strain the sauce through a fine strainer or tammy-cloth.
Dish the sweetbreads in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour the sauce over them.
Put on each sweetbread a tiny pinch of finely-chopped parsley, ham, or
truffle; or use all three, placing them alternately.
The green peas should be put in the centre of the dish.
Braised Sweetbreads.
_Ingredients_--2 calves' sweetbreads.
1 pint of strong second stock.
A piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
1 sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram.
1 bay leaf.
Some larding bacon.
Some carrots and turnips cut in fancy shapes.
_Method._--Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for quite two hours.
Then put them in boiling water, and simmer them for ten minutes to make
them firm.
Soak them again in cold water for twenty minutes, and then lard them
nicely.
Put the vegetables, cut in pieces, in the bottom of a stewpan.
Lay the sweetbreads on them, and pour in the stock; it should come half
way up the sweetbreads.
Cover them with buttered paper, and put the lid on the stewpan.
Simmer gently until the sweetbreads are tender.
Then put them on a baking-tin, and put them in the oven to brown.
Strain the stock they were cooked in into a large saucepan, and boil it
rapidly down to a glaze.
Put the sweetbreads on a hot dish, and pour the glaze over.
Carrots and turnips may be cut in fancy shapes, and nicely boiled to
garnish the dish.
If preferred, the sweetbreads can be cooked without being larded; a
slice of very thin bacon being laid on the top of each.
If a proper braising-pan is used, the sweetbreads need not be browned in
the oven.
Lambs' sweetbreads can be cooked the same way. One dozen will be wanted
for a small dish.
Sweetbreads à la Parisienne.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen lambs' heart sweetbreads.
1 pint of good second stock.
2 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
A piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
1 sprig of parsley.
1 dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup.
1 wineglass of sherry.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
Some mashed potatoes.
Green peas nicely cooked.
_Method._--Trim the sweetbreads and soak them for two hours; throw them
in boiling water, and simmer them gently for five minutes; then soak
them in cold water for twenty minutes.
Simmer them in the stock until they are quite tender.
Then make the butter quite hot in a stewpan.
Fry the sweetbreads in it until nicely browned.
Remove them and fry the flour; then pour in the stock, and stir, and
cook well; add the catsup, wine, and lemon juice.
Dish the sweetbreads on a border of mashed potatoes, and pour the same
over them.
Put a garnish of nicely cooked green peas in the middle.
Minced Sweetbread.
_Ingredients_--The remains of dressed sweetbreads.
2 or 3 mushrooms.
Enough stock to moisten nicely.
1 teaspoonful of flour.
A slice of cooked ham.
A few drops of lemon juice.
1 oz. of butter.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Mince the sweetbreads, mushrooms, and ham.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the mushrooms in it.
Put in the flour, and mix it smoothly with the butter.
Then put in the sweetbread and ham, and enough stock to mix nicely.
Add lemon juice, pepper, and salt, to taste.
Make it hot, and then put the mixture into oiled-paper cases.
Sprinkle over the top of each a few browned crumbs and put in the oven
for a few minutes.
Fried Sweetbread.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen lambs' heart sweetbreads.
1 pint of good stock.
1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
A few drops of lemon juice.
If liked, ½ wineglass of sherry.
Eggs and bread-crumbs.
Some mashed potatoes and green peas.
_Method._--Trim the sweetbreads, and soak them in cold water for two
hours.
Then throw them into the boiling stock, and simmer them for half an hour
or more until quite tender.
If possible, let them get cold in the stock.
Then egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in a frying basket in hot
fat (_see_ French Frying).
To make a sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan.
Mix in the flour smoothly, pour in the stock, and stir and cook well;
add lemon juice, pepper, and salt to taste, and, if liked, a little
sherry.
Dish the sweetbreads on the potatoes; pour the sauce round them, and put
the peas in the centre.
The sauce should be made before the sweetbreads are fried, that there
may be no delay in serving.
If calves' sweetbreads are used, proceed in the same way, cutting them
in neat slices before frying.
Cutlets of Veal with Tomato Sauce.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of fillet of veal.
2 or 3 oz. of butter, or some of the fat skimmed from the
stock-pot.
1 pint of tomato sauce.
¼ lb. macaroni, nicely stewed in milk and seasoned with
Parmesan cheese.
Some mashed potatoes.
1 uncooked tomato.
_Method._--Cut the veal into neat little cutlets, and fry them nicely in
the butter or skimming.
Dish them in a circle on a border of potatoes.
Pile the macaroni high in the middle.
Pour tomato sauce round, and garnish the macaroni with small strips of
uncooked tomato.
Beef Olives.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of thick beefsteak.
Some veal stuffing.
1½ pint of stock.
1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
Some mashed potatoes.
A few carrots and turnips, cut in fancy shapes, and nicely
cooked.
_Method._--Cut the beef into thin strips, lay a little forcemeat on
each, and roll them up.
Tie each roll with a little fine string.
Put them in a stewpan close together, and cover them with the stock.
Stew them gently for two or three hours until quite tender.
Then place them in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes.
Remove any fat from the stock, and stir in the butter and flour
thoroughly mixed together.
Cook the flour well, and then add the lemon juice and seasoning.
Strain the sauce over the olives, and put the vegetables in the centre.
Veal à la Béchamel.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of cold cooked veal.
¼ lb. of button mushrooms.
½ pint of _Béchamel_ sauce.
The yolks of 2 eggs.
Some fried sippets of bread.
_Method._--Cut the veal into large dice.
Clean the mushrooms and stew them in the sauce until tender.
Then add the yolks of two eggs well beaten.
Stir over the fire until they thicken, but on no account let the sauce
_boil_, as that might curdle the eggs.
Last of all, put in the pieces of veal, and let the saucepan remain by
the fire until they are thoroughly heated.
Serve garnished with fried sippets of bread.
Grenadines of Veal.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of veal.
Some larding bacon.
Some good second stock.
1 piece of carrot, turnip, onion.
1 sprig of parsley, thyme, and marjoram.
Some nicely boiled green peas.
_Method._--Cut the fillet into nice oval-shaped cutlets, about half an
inch in thickness, and lard them.
Put the vegetables, cut in small pieces, at the bottom of the stewpan.
Lay the cutlets on them, and pour in sufficient stock to come half way
up the cutlets.
Cover them with buttered paper, and put them on a slow fire to simmer
gently until tender.
Then put them on a baking-tin in the oven to brown.
Strain the stock and boil it with a half-pint more to a strong glaze.
Dish the _grenadines_ on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour a little glaze over each, and put the green peas in the middle.
Mayonnaise of Fowl.
Cold Entrée for Suppers.
_Ingredients_--2 fowls.
½ pint of _mayonnaise_ sauce.
A cucumber.
4 hard-boiled eggs.
1 pint of aspic jelly.
A beetroot.
_Method._--Boil the fowls and cut them into neat joints.
Put them in a dish in a circle, the one leaning on the other.
Place in the middle a bunch of endive, and coat the pieces of chicken
with _mayonnaise_ sauce.
Cut the hard-boiled eggs in quarters, and lay them round the chicken
with slices of cucumber and beetroot, and garnish with a border of
chopped aspic.
Veal Cutlets.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of veal cutlet.
Egg and bread-crumbs.
3 oz. of clarified butter.
½ oz. of flour.
½ pint of nice stock.
Some mashed potatoes.
_Method._--Beat the cutlet well to break the fibre of the meat, and then
cut it into neat oval or round shapes.
Brush them with the egg and cover them with fine bread-crumbs.
Fry them in a cutlet-pan in the butter.
When they are cooked pour some of the butter from the pan.
Stir in the flour smoothly.
Pour in the stock, and cook well.
Add pepper and salt and a few drops of lemon juice.
Dish the cutlets in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes.
Strain the gravy round them, and put some nice little rolls of bacon in
the middle.
To cook the bacon, cut it in thin slices; roll them, and put them on a
skewer, they may be either toasted or baked.
Veal Cutlets à l'Italienne.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of fillet of veal.
Cut into neat cutlets.
2 oz. of butter.
Egg and bread-crumbs.
Some carrot and turnip, cut in fancy shapes and boiled.
½ pint of Italian sauce.
_Method._--Egg and bread-crumb the cutlets and fry them in the butter.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour Italian sauce over, and put the vegetables in the middle.
Make the Italian sauce with the butter the cutlets are fried in.
Fillets of Chicken.
_Ingredients_--Some little fillets of chicken cut from the breast.
Some streaky bacon.
½ pint of _Béchamel_ sauce, made with white stock.
Some mashed potatoes.
_Method._--Lay the fillet on a greased baking-tin.
Cover with buttered paper and put them into a moderate oven for ten or
fifteen minutes.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes.
Pour the sauce over and put little rolls of nicely cooked bacon in the
middle.
To cook the bacon, cut it into very thin strips and roll them, run a
skewer through, and toast them before the fire.
Chicken à la Marengo.
_Ingredients_--1 chicken.
1½ pint of second stock.
3 tomatoes.
1 piece of carrot, turnip, and onion.
1 sprig of parsley, thyme, marjoram.
2 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
A few drops of lemon juice.
_Method._--Cut the chicken into neat joints and fry them in the butter.
Then remove them and fry the vegetables.
Add the flour and fry that.
Then pour in the stock; stir and boil for three minutes.
Then put in the chicken and the tomato, sliced.
Simmer for about thirty minutes, until the chicken is quite tender.
Then put the chicken on to an _entrée_ dish.
Add some lemon juice to the gravy, and strain over it.
Chicken à la Cardinal.
_Ingredients_--1 chicken.
1½ pint of _Béchamel_ sauce.
4 ripe tomatoes.
_Method._--Cut the chicken into joints and put them in a stewpan with
the sauce and tomatoes, sliced.
Simmer gently until the chicken is quite tender.
Then place them on a hot _entrée_ dish and strain the sauce over them.
Kidneys and Mushrooms.
_Ingredients_--2 dozen medium sized mushrooms.
6 sheep's kidneys.
1 pint of second stock.
1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
A few drops of lemon juice.
_Method._--Peel the mushrooms, cut off the stalks, and wash them.
Wipe the kidneys and slice them, put them in a stewpan with the stock
and mushrooms.
Simmer them gently for thirty minutes or more, until quite tender.
Mix the butter and flour very smoothly, stir them in and boil for about
three minutes.
Add the cream and let it boil, season to taste, and squeeze in a few
drops of lemon juice.
Curried Rabbit.
_Ingredients_--1 apple.
1 onion.
2 dessertspoonfuls of curry powder.
1½ pint of second stock.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
2 oz. of butter.
2 dessertspoonfuls of flour.
Salt.
A few drops of lemon juice.
_Method._--Cut the rabbit into neat joints and fry them in the butter.
Then remove them and fry the onion and apple, sliced.
Mix the curry powder and flour smoothly with the stock.
Put it into a stewpan; stir and boil three minutes.
Put in the rabbit and add the onion and apple, which should be rubbed
through a hair sieve.
Simmer gently for thirty minutes or more, until the rabbit is tender.
Add the cream and let it boil in the sauce.
Squeeze in the lemon juice and add salt.
If a dry curry is liked, remove the rabbit when tender, and boil and
reduce the sauce to half the quantity, leaving only sufficient to coat
the pieces of rabbit well.
Serve nicely cooked rice with the curry (_see_ Rice for Curry).
Curried Chicken.
Make according to the directions in the preceding recipe, using white
stock or boiled milk.
Mutton Cutlets à la Milanaise.
_Ingredients_--7 or more mutton cutlets.
2 eggs, white bread-crumbs.
3 oz. Parmesan cheese, grated.
A little boiled macaroni.
½ pint brown sauce.
Some mashed potatoes.
2 oz. clarified butter, or the fat skimming of the
stock-pot.
_Method._--Trim the cutlets neatly.
Brush them with egg and cover them with bread-crumbs mixed with 2 oz. of
the grated cheese.
Fry them for about five minutes in a cutlet pan.
Dish them on a border of mashed potatoes and put some nicely-cooked
macaroni in the centre with 1 oz. of grated cheese.
Pour the brown sauce round them and serve very hot.
Chaud-froid Chicken.
Cold Entrée for Suppers and Luncheons.
_Ingredients_--The best joints of 2 chickens.
1 pint of _Béchamel_ sauce.
¼ oz. of Swinborne's or Nelson's Gelatine.
Some aspic jelly.
Endive and lettuce.
_Method._--Melt the gelatine and mix it with the sauce.
Coat the pieces of chicken carefully with it, giving them each two coats
if they require it.
When the sauce is firm, place them in a circle on an _entrée_ dish.
Put some lettuce, nicely mixed with salad dressing, in the centre, and
garnish prettily with the endive.
A border of aspic jelly should be placed round the chicken.
If liked, the chicken may be decorated with truffle or ham.
Rissoles of Game.
_Ingredients_--Some scraps of cold game.
Some very stiff second stock.
Lemon juice, pepper, salt.
Egg and bread-crumbs.
_Method._--Mince the game finely.
Melt the stock and moisten the game well with it.
Add pepper and salt, and a few drops of lemon juice.
Spread the mixture on a plate to get cold.
When cold it will be quite firm.
Mould it into balls or egg shapes.
Cover them with egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat (_see_
French Frying).
Serve on a folded napkin, and garnish with fried parsley.
Podovies.
_Ingredients_--Some cooked beef, minced finely.
A little thick gravy, lemon juice.
A little pastry.
Pepper and salt.
Some crushed vermicelli and one or two eggs.
_Method._--Mix the beef with the gravy; season it with pepper and salt.
Roll out the pastry as thin as possible.
Cut it into rounds with a good-sized cutter.
Brush the edges of the rounds with beaten egg, and put a little of the
minced meat in the middle of each.
Fold them over, pressing the edges well together.
Cover with the egg, and then with the vermicelli.
Drop them into hot fat (_see_ French Frying) and fry them a golden
brown. As they will rise to the top of the fat, it will be necessary to
keep them under with a wire basket or spoon. Dish on a folded napkin and
garnish with fried parsley.
FISH COOKERY.
To Boil Fish.
Be very careful that the fish is thoroughly cleansed, then place it on
the fish-strainer, and tie a cloth, or piece of muslin, over it. (This
is to prevent any scum settling on the fish to disfigure it, or spoil
its colour.) Immerse it in boiling water, to which two tablespoonfuls of
salt, and two of vinegar, have been added; boil it for three minutes to
set the albumen on the outside, and so form a casing to keep in the
juices and flavour of the fish. Then draw the kettle to the side of the
fire and simmer gently until the fish is cooked. For a thick piece of
fish, six minutes to each pound, and six minutes over, is the time
usually allowed; but no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down, as the time
it will take to cook depends on the size and shape, as well as on the
weight of the fish. When the fish is cooked, it will have an opaque
appearance; and on being pulled, will leave the bone readily. Care must
be taken to cook it sufficiently but not to over-boil it. Under-done
fish is very unpleasant, while over-cooked fish is flavourless, and
breaks to pieces.
Salt fish is put into lukewarm water for the purpose of drawing out some
of the salt, and must be simmered until tender. Mackerel should also be
put into lukewarm water, as the skin is very tender, and boiling water
would break it.
When the fish is cooked, remove the cloth, or muslin, and place the
strainer across the kettle that the fish may get well drained. Cover it
with a hot cover, and leave it in that position for a few minutes. Then
dish, on a folded napkin; or on a strainer, if sauce is poured over it.
Garnish tastefully, and serve with an appropriate sauce. Small cod, or
salmon, if boiled whole, should be trussed in the form of the letter S.
Baked Fish.
The oven should be kept at a moderate heat, that the fish may not be
dried up. Small fish may be cooked with great advantage in the oven, if
carefully covered with buttered paper, which will keep them moist, and
prevent any baked flavour.
Fried Fish.
Small fish, such as whiting, smelts, &c., are generally fried whole.
Larger fish, such as cod and salmon, are fried in the shape of cutlets.
Fish to be fried, must be covered with egg and crumbs, or batter. A
stewpan, half full of fat, and not a frying-pan, should be used for the
purpose (_see_ French Frying), except in the case of the sole; and for
that, the new fish-fryer, with a wire strainer, is far better than the
old-fashioned pan. The bread-crumbs, for fish, should be prepared by
rubbing stale bread through a wire sieve.
Boiled Turbot.
Boil it according to the directions for boiling fish. It usually takes
from half an hour to an hour, according to its size. It should be dished
on a folded napkin, with the white side uppermost; and garnished with
cut lemon, parsley, and coral. Serve with it lobster, shrimp, or anchovy
sauce.
Boiled Brill.
This fish is cooked like turbot; garnished in the same way, and served
with the same sauces.
Boiled Salmon.
Boil according to the directions given for boiling fish. Truss a small
salmon in the form of the letter S. Dish on a folded napkin; and garnish
with parsley and coral. Serve with lobster, shrimp, anchovy, or tartare
sauce.
Boiled Cod.
Boil according to directions given for boiling fish. A small piece is
often served with thick egg-sauce poured over it, and garnished with the
yolk of an egg rubbed through a wire sieve.
Salt Cod, Haddock, Plaice, and any Fish,
May be boiled according to directions given for boiling
fish, and served with egg, anchovy, or any other appropriate sauce.
Curried Fish.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of cold boiled fish.
1 small onion.
1 small apple.
½ pint of second stock.
A few drops of lemon juice.
1 oz. of butter.
1 dessertspoonful of curry powder.
1 dessertspoonful of flour.
Salt.
_Method._--Slice the onion and apple; fry them in the butter, and then
rub them through a hair sieve.
Mix the flour and curry powder smoothly with the stock.
Stir over the fire and boil well.
Then add the onion, apple, lemon juice, and salt.
Break the fish into pieces, and remove the bones.
Put it into the sauce, and let it warm through.
Serve with a border of rice round it.
Kedgeree.
_Ingredients_--The remains of cooked fish.
An equal quantity of boiled rice.
2 hard-boiled eggs.
A little butter.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Break the fish into flakes, removing all the bones.
Melt a little butter in a saucepan.
Put in the rice, fish, and the whites of the eggs cut small, pepper and
salt.
Stir over the fire until quite hot.
Heap it on a hot dish in the form of a pyramid, and sprinkle over it the
yolks of the eggs, rubbed through a wire sieve.
Baked Herrings.
_Ingredients_--A few herrings.
Browned bread-crumbs.
A little butter or dripping.
Parsley.
_Method._--Split open the herrings, and remove the back-bone.
Roll them up, and place them with their roes on a greased baking-sheet.
Cover them with greased paper, and put them into a moderate oven for ten
or fifteen minutes until cooked.
Place the rolls on a folded napkin, and sprinkle some brown bread-crumbs
in a straight line on each.
Garnish with the roes and sprigs of parsley.
Herrings baked in Vinegar.
_Ingredients_--A few herrings.
1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
1 small onion.
Vinegar.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Grease a pie-dish, and put some herrings at the bottom.
Sprinkle them with the parsley and onion finely chopped, and the pepper
and salt.
Put another layer of herrings on the top, and sprinkle them similarly.
Proceed in the same way until the dish is full.
Cover them with vinegar.
Place over them a dish, and bake in a slow oven for three or four hours.
Herrings cooked in this way are used cold.
Smelts Fried.
_Ingredients_--Smelts.
Egg.
Bread-crumbs.
Parsley.
_Method._--Dry the smelts well, and fix their tails in their mouths.
Cover them with egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them a golden brown in a
frying-basket in hot fat (_see_ French Frying).
Garnish with fried parsley, and serve with melted butter or other
suitable sauce.
Smelts au gratin.
_Ingredients_--Some smelts.
A few button mushrooms.
1 shalot.
1 sprig of parsley.
Lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
Browned bread crumbs.
Glaze.
_Method._--Lay the smelts on a greased baking-sheet.
Sprinkle under and over them the parsley, shalot, and mushrooms, finely
chopped, with lemon juice, pepper, and salt.
Cover them with browned bread-crumbs, and put little bits of butter over
them.
Bake them in a moderate oven for seven or ten minutes. Put them on a hot
dish, and pour melted glaze over them.
Ling and Hake.
These two fish may be cooked according to any of the recipes given for
dressing cod.
Salmon à la Tartare.
_Ingredients_--A piece of salmon.
Some tartare sauce.
Chopped parsley.
Coral.
_Method._--Boil the salmon carefully according to the directions given
for boiling fish.
Garnish with coral and parsley, and serve with tartare sauce (_see_
Sauces).
If the salmon is served cold, the tartare sauce is poured over it. If
hot, it is served in a sauce-boat.
A slice of salmon is frequently grilled, and served with tartare sauce.
Pickled Salmon.
_Ingredients_--Some boiled salmon.
1 dozen peppercorns.
2 saltspoonfuls of salt.
3 bay leaves.
Equal quantities of vinegar and the liquor the fish was
boiled in.
_Method._--Lay the salmon in a deep pan or pie-dish.
Boil the fish liquor, vinegar, and other ingredients for a quarter of an
hour.
Let it get cold, and then pour over the salmon, which should be allowed
to remain in the pickle until the next day.
Whitebait.
_Ingredients_--Whitebait.
Flour.
_Method._--Put plenty of oil or fat into a stewpan, and make it hot
(_see_ French Frying). The heat of the fat for whitebait should be 400°.
Have a good heap of flour on a cloth.
As soon as the fat is hot, throw the whitebait into the flour, and,
taking the cloth by each end, shake the whitebait rapidly until they are
well floured.
Turn them quickly into a frying-basket.
Shake the basket well for the loose flour to drop off, and throw the
whitebait into the fat for a minute.
As soon as they rise to the surface, remove them with a fish-slice, and
drain them on kitchen paper.
Serve them with brown bread and butter, and slices of lemon.
Oyster Patties.
_Ingredients_--6 patty cases.
2½ dozen oysters.
1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
¼ pint of milk.
¼ pint of cream.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
A little cayenne.
_Method._--Beard the oysters, and cut off the hard white part; cut each
oyster in two.
Strain the oyster liquor through muslin.
Put the beards into the milk, and simmer them in it to extract the
flavour.
Then melt the butter in a saucepan, and mix in the flour smoothly.
Strain in the milk, and add the oyster liquor. Stir and cook well.
Then add the cream, and let it boil in the sauce.
Lastly, add the pepper, salt, cayenne, and the oysters.
Fill the patty cases with the mixture.
Put the lid on each, and decorate with powdered lobster coral.
Serve hot or cold.
Scalloped Oysters.
_Ingredients_--Some oysters.
A little butter, and bread-crumbs.
_Method._--Grease some scallop shells, and place on each two or three
oysters.
Cover them with broad-crumbs, and put a little piece of butter on each.
Brown them in a quick oven, and serve very hot.
Scalloped Oysters à la Française.
_Ingredients_--2½ dozen oysters.
1 oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
¼ pint of milk.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
Some bread crumbs.
_Method._--Beard the oysters, and cut them in two.
Strain the oyster liquor through muslin.
Simmer the beards in the milk.
Melt the butter in a small stewpan, and mix in the flour smoothly.
Strain in the milk, add the oyster liquor, stir, and cook well.
Then add the cream, and let it boil in the sauce.
Lastly, add lemon juice, pepper, salt, cayenne, and oysters.
Grease some scallop shells, and sprinkle them with bread-crumbs.
Fill them with the mixture, and sprinkle some more crumbs over them.
Brown in a quick oven.
Serve on a folded napkin, and garnish with parsley and cut lemon.
Mackerel à la Normande.
_Ingredients_--1 dessertspoonful of bread-crumbs.
2 mackerel.
Half a shalot, chopped finely.
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
¼ teaspoonful dried and powdered herbs.
¼ oz. of butter or dripping.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Split open the mackerel, and remove the back-bones as cleanly
as possible.
Grease a baking-tin, and lay one of the mackerel, skin downwards, on it.
Mix the herbs, parsley, shalot, and bread-crumbs together with pepper
and salt, and sprinkle them over the fish.
Lay the other mackerel on the top, with the skin uppermost.
Put little bits of butter or dripping about it, and bake from ten
minutes to a quarter of an hour.
For serving, sprinkle over a few brown bread-crumbs.
Haddock Stuffed.
_Ingredients_--1 haddock.
3 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs.
1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
1 teaspoonful of dried and powdered herbs.
Pepper and salt.
Part of an egg, or a little milk, to bind the stuffing.
_Method._--Mix the crumbs, parsley, herbs, pepper and salt, with the egg
or milk.
Put the stuffing in the haddock, and fasten it with a small skewer.
Then truss it with string, or two skewers, in the form of the letter S.
Place it on a greased baking-tin; and put a few pieces of butter or
dripping on it.
Bake it in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes.
To serve, place it on a dish and remove the skewers.
Garnish with parsley.
Cutlets of Cod.
_Ingredients_--The tail of a cod.
1 egg.
Bread-crumbs.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Cut the tail of a cod into neat cutlets.
Season them with pepper and salt, and cover them with egg and
bread-crumbs.
Fry them in a frying-basket in hot fat (_see_ French Frying).
Serve on a folded napkin, and garnish with fried parsley.
Cutlets of Cod à l'Italienne.
_Ingredients_--The tail of a cod.
A little butter.
Lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
Some Italian sauce.
_Method._--Divide the cod into neat cutlets.
Place them on a greased baking-sheet.
Sprinkle over them a few drops of lemon juice, pepper, and salt, and
cover them with buttered paper.
Bake them in a moderate oven from ten to twelve minutes.
Dish them in a circle, and pour over them some Italian sauce (_see_
Sauces).
Garnish with coral and truffle.
Cutlets of Cod à la Genoise.
Cook some cod cutlets as in preceding recipe, and serve with Genoise
sauce (_see_ Sauces). Garnish with coral and truffle.
Cod with Tomatoes.
_Ingredients_--1½ lb. of cod cutlets.
5 or 6 tomatoes.
1 tablespoonful of vinegar.
Cayenne pepper and salt.
_Method._--Rub the tomatoes through a hair sieve.
Then put the _purée_ thus obtained into a saucepan, and lay the pieces
of cod in it. There should be enough tomato _purée_ to cover the cod.
Simmer gently until the cod is tender.
Add the vinegar and seasoning, dish in a circle, and pour the tomato
over.
Cod Fricassee.
_Ingredients_--Some boiled cod, either hot or cold.
Plain white sauce (_see_ Sauces).
2 hard-boiled eggs.
_Method._--Break the fish into flakes.
Make the sauce quite hot.
Put the fish into it, and warm it through.
There should be just enough sauce to moisten the cod.
Heap it in a pyramid shape on a hot dish.
Garnish it with rings cut from the hard-boiled eggs.
Sprinkle over the top of the cod the yolks rubbed through a wire sieve
or strainer.
Cod Sounds Boiled.
_Ingredients_--Some cod sounds; milk; water.
Béchamel sauce.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Soak the sounds in water for about six hours.
Then boil them in milk and water for half an hour or more until quite
tender.
Cut them in pieces about two inches square, and make them hot in some
_Béchamel_ sauce.
Pile them on a dish in the form of a pyramid, with slices of hard-boiled
egg, cut lemon, and parsley.
Marinaded Cod Sounds.
_Ingredients_--Cod sounds.
Milk.
Water.
Oil.
Vinegar.
Shalot.
Parsley.
Pepper and salt.
Butter.
_Method._--Soak the cod sounds in water for about six hours, and then
boil them in milk and water until tender.
Cut them in pieces an inch and a half square.
Mix together equal quantities of oil and vinegar, and add to them a
shalot and some parsley, very finely chopped; pepper, and salt.
Steep the sounds in the _marinade_.
Just before serving, dip each one in _Kromesky_ batter, and fry in hot
fat (_see_ French Frying).
Dish in a circle, and pour over them some piquant sauce.
Decorate with truffle and coral.
Cod Stuffed and Baked.
_Ingredients_--A thick slice from the middle of the cod.
Some veal stuffing.
Browned bread-crumbs.
_Method._--Fasten the stuffing securely in the cod.
Place it on a greased baking-sheet, and cover it with browned crumbs.
Place small pieces of butter or dripping about it, and bake it in a
moderate oven for about half an hour, basting occasionally.
Serve with cut lemon, and garnish with parsley.
Note.--A small cod may be stuffed and cooked like a haddock.
Plaice.
This fish may be boiled, baked, or fried.
Fried Fillets of Plaice.
Fillet the plaice by cutting down the centre of the fish with a sharp
knife and removing the flesh from either side.
Egg and bread-crumb the fillets, and fry in hot fat (_see_ French
Frying).
Drain on kitchen paper, serve on a folded napkin, and garnish with fried
parsley.
Fried Fillets of Sole.
Prepare like the fillets of plaice, with the exception that the sole
should be skinned before it is filleted.
Fish Croquettes.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of cooked fish (haddock, cod, ling, or hake are the
best for the purpose).
1 oz. of butter.
2 or 3 eggs.
Pepper and salt.
Some white crumbs.
Parsley.
1 lb. of boiled potatoes.
_Method._--Rub the potatoes through a sieve.
Break the fish into flakes, removing the bones.
Mix the fish and potatoes together; blend them thoroughly with the
butter, pepper, salt, and a well-beaten egg.
Form the mixture into balls or cakes.
Egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in hot fat (_see_ French Frying).
Serve on a folded napkin, and garnish with fried parsley.
Fish Pudding.
Make a mixture of fish and potatoes as in preceding recipe. Put it on a
dish that will stand the heat of the oven, and mould it into the form of
a fish.
Bake for half an hour.
Halibut.
This fish may be cooked and served like cod or turbot.
Red Mullets à l'Italienne.
_Ingredients_--4 or 6 red mullets.
2 dessertspoonfuls of mushroom catsup.
A little butter.
Lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
Some Italian sauce.
_Method._--Lay the mullets in a well-buttered baking-sheet; moisten them
with the catsup, and sprinkle with lemon juice, pepper, and salt.
Put some little bits of butter over them.
Bake in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour or more until cooked.
Lay them on a hot dish.
Mix the liquor from the mullets with some Italian sauce (_see_ Sauces),
and pour over.
Garnish with truffle and coral.
Red Mullets à la Genoise.
_Ingredients_--Red mullets.
½ glass of port.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper.
Some Genoise sauce.
A little butter.
_Method._--Lay the mullets on a well-greased baking-sheet.
Moisten them with the port wine and lemon juice, and put little bits of
butter about them.
Bake them in a moderate oven until cooked.
Lay them on a hot dish.
Mix the liquor from the mullets with the Genoise sauce, and pour over
them.
Red Mullet in Cases.
_Ingredients_--4 red mullets.
1 dozen button mushrooms.
1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
2 shalots.
Lemon-juice.
Pepper and salt.
Salad oil.
_Method._--Chop the shalots and mushrooms, and mix them with the
parsley.
Oil some pieces of foolscap paper.
Lay the mullets on them; sprinkle over them the parsley, mushroom,
shalot, lemon juice, pepper and salt.
Fold them in the cases, and cook on a well-greased baking-sheet, in a
moderate oven, for about twenty or thirty minutes.
Boiled Whiting.
Fasten the tail in the mouth of each whiting, and lay them on a fish
strainer.
Put them into boiling water, with salt in it, and cook them gently for
five minutes or more.
Dish on a folded napkin, and garnish with parsley, coral, and cut lemon.
Serve with them _maître d'hôtel_, _Béchamel_, Italian, Genoise, or any
other suitable sauce.
Fried Whiting.
_Ingredients_--Some whiting.
Egg.
Bread-crumbs.
Parsley.
Lemon juice.
_Method._--Skin the whiting, and fasten the tail in the mouth.
Dry them well with a cloth.
Egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in a frying-basket, in hot fat
(_see_ French Frying).
Drain them on kitchen paper, and dish on a folded napkin.
Garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon.
_Béchamel_, lobster, shrimp, Italian, Genoise, or any other suitable
sauce, may be served with them.
Whiting à l'Italienne.
_Ingredients_--Whiting.
Lemon-juice.
Pepper and salt.
A little butter.
Italian sauce.
_Method._--Skin and fillet the whiting.
Lay the fillets on a well-buttered baking-sheet.
Sprinkle with lemon-juice, pepper and salt, and cover them with buttered
paper.
Cook them in a moderate oven, from seven to ten minutes.
Dish in a circle, and pour Italian sauce over.
Garnish with truffle and coral.
Whiting à la Genoise.
Prepare the whiting as in preceding receipt, substituting Genoise for
Italian sauce.
Lobster Cutlets.
_Ingredients_--1 hen lobster.
1½ oz. of butter.
1 oz. of flour.
1 gill of cold water.
2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Cayenne.
Pepper and salt.
Some spawn or coral.
Egg and bread-crumbs.
Parsley.
_Method._--Remove the flesh from the body of the lobster, and cut it up.
Pound the coral in a mortar, with half an ounce of butter, and rub it
through a hair sieve. (If spawn is used it need not be pounded.)
Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan.
Mix in the flour; add the water; stir until it thickens.
Then add the coral, and butter, and cook well.
Next the cream, lemon juice, cayenne, pepper, salt, and lastly the
chopped lobster.
Spread the mixture on a plate to cool.
When cool, shape into cutlets.
Egg and bread-crumb, and fry in hot fat in a frying-basket.
Put a piece of the feeler in each, to represent a bone.
Garnish with fried parsley.
Lobster Cutlets in Aspic.
Shape some of the lobster-cutlet mixture into cutlets.
Roll in dried and powdered coral, and put a piece of feeler in each.
Pour a little aspic jelly into a clean Yorkshire-pudding tin, or
frying-pan.
When set, lay the cutlets on it, and pour in, gently, enough aspic to
cover them.
When firm, cut them out with a border of aspic to each, and serve on
chopped aspic.
Fried Sole.
_Ingredients_--A sole.
Egg.
Bread-crumbs.
Parsley.
_Method._--Remove the dark skin, and notch the other, here and there,
with a knife.
Dry the sole well in a floured cloth.
Brush over with egg, and cover with bread-crumbs.
Flatten them on with a broad-bladed knife, and fry the sole a golden
brown in hot fat (for heat of fat _see_ French Frying).
A fish-fryer, or a deep frying-pan, should be used for the purpose; and
there should be sufficient fat to cover the sole, so that it will not
require turning.
When cooked, drain on kitchen paper.
Dish on a folded napkin.
Garnish with fried parsley.
Sole à la Parisienne.
_Ingredients_--1 sole.
1 wineglass of sherry.
½ pint of good second stock.
A few drops of lemon juice.
1 teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce.
1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce.
Pepper and salt to taste.
_Method._--Remove the dark skin, and notch the other with a knife.
Lay the sole in a baking-pan, and pour over it the stock and sherry.
Cover with a dish, and bake for twenty or thirty minutes in a moderate
oven.
Place it on a hot dish.
Boil the stock rapidly down to half the quantity.
Add to it the sauces, lemon juice, and seasoning, and pour it over the
sole.
Fillets of Sole à la Rouennaise.
_Ingredients_--2 or more soles.
Lemon juice.
Lobster-cutlet mixture.
Some white sauce.
Chopped truffle.
_Method._--Remove both skins from the soles, and fillet them.
Spread some of the lobster-cutlet mixture on the half of each fillet,
and fold over.
Place on a greased baking-sheet; sprinkle over lemon juice and salt, and
cover with buttered paper.
Bake in a moderate oven for about twelve minutes.
Dish in a circle, and pour over white sauce, mixed with chopped
truffle.
Fillets of Sole à la Maître d'Hôtel.
_Ingredients_--Fillets of sole.
Lemon juice and salt.
_Method._--Roll or fold the fillets, and cook like the Sole _à la
Rouennaise_.
Cover them with the same sauce as in the last recipe, using chopped
parsley instead of truffle.
Sole au gratin.
_Ingredients_--1 sole.
1 dessertspoonful of chopped parsley.
1 chopped shalot.
6 chopped button mushrooms.
Lemon juice.
Pepper and salt.
½ oz. of butter.
Brown bread-crumbs.
_Method._--Grease a dish that will stand the heat of the oven.
Sprinkle on it half of the parsley, shalot, and mushroom, with lemon
juice, pepper, and salt.
Lay the sole on the mixture, and sprinkle the remainder of the parsley,
&c., over it.
Cover with brown bread-crumbs, and put half an ounce of butter about it,
in small pieces.
Bake from ten to fifteen minutes, according to size, and serve-with
glaze poured round it.
Gurnets baked.
_Ingredients_--2 or more gurnets.
Some veal stuffing, omitting the suet.
A little stock.
½ wineglass of sherry.
1 or 2 dessertspoonfuls of mushroom catsup.
Some brown sauce.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Remove the head and fins of the gurnets, and stuff them with
veal stuffing, fastening it in with small skewers.
Lay them on a well-buttered baking-tin, and pour over them the stock,
sherry, and catsup.
Bake them in a moderate oven until cooked.
Then place them on a hot dish, mix the liquor from them with the sauce
and pour over.
Stewed Eels.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of eels.
1 pint of stock.
1 wineglass of port.
1 tablespoonful of flour.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Pepper.
Salt.
Cayenne.
2 oz. of butter.
_Method._--Cut the eels in pieces about 2½ inches long.
Fry them brown in the butter.
Then put them in a stewpan with the stock.
Stew gently, until tender.
Then remove them from the stock, and put them in a hot dish.
Thicken the stock with the flour.
Add the wine, lemon juice, and seasoning.
Pour over the eels, and serve very hot.
PASTRY.
Few people are successful in making pastry. Yet, with a little practice,
there is no reason why any one should not make it with some degree of
perfection, if the following rules are carefully attended to.
Make the pastry in a cool place, not in a hot kitchen. The board,
rolling-pin, and hands should be as cold as possible. Handle it very
lightly. The colder pastry is kept during making, the lighter it will
be, because it will contain more air; cold air occupies a much less
space than warm. The colder the air, the greater, consequently, will be
its expansion when the pastry is put into a very hot oven. Roll the
paste lightly, and not more than necessary. Puff paste is a kind of fine
sandwich. There should be a certain number of layers of dough and layers
of butter. Take care, therefore, that the butter is not allowed to break
through the dough; and be _very careful to follow_ the directions given
for making this pastry. Its manufacture requires patience, because, if
it is not properly cooled between the turns, the friction of rolling
will warm the butter, and cause it to smear into the dough. For short
crust, rub the butter or fat lightly into the flour with the tips of the
fingers; and do not use more water than necessary in mixing it. This is
a common mistake; and too much water deprives the paste of its
shortness. Short paste is the best for children and persons of weak
digestion; the flour in it being more thoroughly incorporated with the
fat, gets better cooked. It is, therefore, capable of more perfect
mastication than puff or flaky crust, both of which are liable to be
swallowed in flakes.
However well pastry is made, success will not be attained unless the
oven is rightly heated. The very lightest crusts will often be totally
spoiled in the baking because this important point is not attended to.
If the oven is not very hot, the fat will melt and run out of the pastry
before the starch grains in the flour burst; consequently, they cannot
afterwards expand, however hot the oven may be made; and in this way the
paste will become heavy. Take great care, therefore, that the oven is
very hot when the paste is put into it.
Watch the paste carefully that it does not take too dark a colour. When
it is well thrown up and nearly cooked, it may be removed to a more
moderately heated part of the oven if it should appear to be browning
too quickly.
Ovens in which the heat comes from the bottom are decidedly the best for
either cakes or pastry; but no one should expect to bake well in an oven
they do not thoroughly understand. There is so much difference in ovens,
that the hottest part of one may be the coolest in another. To bake well
requires practice and experience, and no one should be discouraged by a
few failures.
Puff Paste.
_Ingredients_--Equal quantities of Vienna flour and butter.
A few drops of lemon juice.
Enough water to mix the flour into a nice lithe dough.
_Method._--Rub the flour through a wire sieve.
Make a well in the middle, and squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice.
Mix very gradually with very cold water, taking care that the dough is
not too stiff.
Then knead and work well about until quite smooth.
Set it aside for a few minutes to get quite cold.
Squeeze the butter in a cloth to press out the water.
Roll out the dough, and place the butter, flattened to a third of its
size, in the middle.
Then fold the dough from either side over it, pressing the edges
together.
Turn it with its edges toward you, and roll out very gently (care must
be taken that the butter does not break through the dough).
Fold it again in three, and put it aside to cool for quite a quarter of
an hour. The colder it is kept the better.
Then turn its edges towards you, and roll it out again; fold evenly in
three, and roll and fold again in the same manner; each roll and fold is
called a turn.
Cool the paste for another quarter of an hour.
Then give it two more turns.
Let it cool again; and at the seventh roll it will probably be ready for
use.
It is, however, wise to bake a small piece of the paste before using the
whole quantity. If the maker has a very light hand it sometimes happens
that eight or even nine turns may be necessary to roll the butter
sufficiently into the flour.
Patty Cases.
Roll the puff paste, when ready, to rather more than a quarter of an
inch in thickness.
Take a fluted cutter about the size of a tumbler.
Dip it in very hot water, and cut the paste into rounds with it.
Mark the middle of these rounds with a cutter about three sizes smaller.
Roll out the remains of the paste to half the thickness of the patties.
Stamp out some rounds for covers with a fluted cutter two sizes smaller
than that used for the cases.
Put the cases and covers on a baking-tin, and bake in a quick oven for
ten or fifteen minutes.
When cooked, lift the lid and scrape out the soft inside carefully.
Good Short Crust.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of flour.
¾ lb. of butter.
Enough cold water to mix rather stiffly.
A pinch of salt.
_Method._--Rub the butter into the flour until like fine bread-crumbs.
Mix with cold water, using as little as possible (if too much is used
the crust will not be short).
Roll gently to make the paste bind.
If this paste is used for tarts, add one dessertspoonful of castor sugar
to the flour.
Plainer Short Crust.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of flour.
¼ lb. of butter.
¼ lb. of lard.
1 teaspoonful of baking powder.
Water enough to bind.
_Method._--Make according to directions given in preceding recipe.
Economical Short Crust.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of flour.
½ lb. of clarified dripping or lard.
1 teaspoonful of baking powder.
Enough water to mix.
To make this crust still plainer, a quarter of a pound only of clarified
dripping or lard may be taken, and three good teaspoonfuls of baking
powder.
_Method._--Make according to the directions for Short Crust.
Flaky Crust.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of flour.
½ lb. of butter or dripping.
A pinch of salt.
Enough cold water to mix the paste.
_Method._--Rub one half of the butter into the flour, as for short
crust.
Mix with the water, and roll it out very thinly.
Put the remainder in little pieces on the paste.
Fold in three, and then in three again.
Roll out to the size required.
Rough Puff Paste.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of flour.
½ lb. of butter, lard, or dripping.
Salt.
Cold water.
_Method._--Break the fat into the flour in pieces.
Add a pinch of salt.
Mix with a little cold water.
Turn on to a board.
Roll and fold four times.
Flaky Bread Crust.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of bread dough.
Some butter, lard, or dripping.
_Method._--Roll out the dough very thin, and spread with the fat.
Fold in two.
Spread again with fat.
Fold in two, and spread once more with fat.
Fold again, and set aside for one hour.
Then roll out and use.
Beef-steak Pie.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of nice beef-steak.
½ lb. of bullock's kidney.
1 lb. of flaky or rough puff paste.
1 tablespoonful of flour.
½ pint of water.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Roll the paste to a quarter of an inch in thickness.
Invert the pie-dish, and cut the paste to the size and shape of the
under side of it.
Roll out the remainder, and cut a band one inch wide.
Wet the edge of the pie-dish, and place this round it.
Cut the beef into thin strips.
Dip them in flour, and season with pepper and salt.
Roll each of the strips round a tiny piece of fat.
Put them into the pie-dish alternately with pieces of kidney.
Raise them in the middle of the dish in a dome-like form, and pour in
the water.
Wet the edges of the paste lining of the dish, and lay the cover over.
Press the edges lightly together, and trim round with a knife.
Make a hole in the middle of the paste to let the gases from the meat
escape.
Brush the crust with beaten egg, and decorate with leaves cut from the
trimmings.
Bake for about two hours.
The pie should be put into a quick oven until the pastry is cooked; the
heat must then be moderated to cook the meat thoroughly without drying
up the pastry. If possible, finish cooking the meat on the top of the
oven.
Some people prefer stewing the meat before using it in the pie. If this
is done, it must be allowed to get cold before the pie is made.
It is an improvement to the pie to put layers of oysters, bearded,
alternately with the rolls of beef.
Rabbit Pie.
_Ingredients_--1 rabbit.
¼ lb. of salt pork.
1 lb. of rough puff or flaky paste.
½ pint of water.
2 hard-boiled eggs.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Prepare the paste as for beef-steak pie, lining the dish in
the same manner.
Cut the rabbit into neat joints.
Season them with pepper and salt.
Put them in the pie-dish alternately with the pork.
Pour in the water, and cover with the paste.
Brush over with beaten egg, and decorate with paste leaves.
Make a hole in the middle of the crust for the gases to escape.
Bake for about an hour, attending to directions given for baking
beef-steak pie.
Mince Pies.
_Ingredients_--Puff and other pastry.
Mincemeat.
Castor sugar.
White of 1 egg.
THE MINCEMEAT.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of suet.
1 lb. of apples.
1 lb. of sugar.
1 lb. of currants.
1 lb. of raisins.
1 lb. of candied peel.
The grated rind of 3 lemons.
¼ lb. of ratafias soaked in brandy.
_Method._--Chop the suet.
Wash and dry the currants.
Stone and cut the raisins in halves.
Peel, core, and mince the apples.
Chop the candied peel.
Mix all the ingredients well together.
Put them into a stone jar; cover closely and keep for a month.
TO MAKE THE PIES.
Roll the paste out, and stamp it into rather large rounds with a fluted
cutter dipped in hot water.
Lay half the rounds on patty pans.
Wet the edges of the pastry, and put some mincemeat into the middle of
each round.
Cover with the remaining rounds, pressing the edges lightly together.
To glaze, brush them with a little white of egg, and dust with castor
sugar.
Bake in a quick oven for ten or fifteen minutes.
Mushroom Pie.
_Ingredients_--Puff, flaky, or short crust.
Mushrooms.
Boiled potatoes.
Butter.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Roll out the paste, and prepare a pie-dish as for beef-steak
pie.
Mash the potatoes with butter, pepper, and salt.
Peel the mushrooms, and cut off the ends of the stalks.
Put the potatoes and mushrooms in alternate layers in the pie-dish.
Cover with the paste, and finish off and decorate like a beef-steak pie.
Bake in a quick oven for about three quarters of an hour.
Pigeon Pie.
_Ingredients_--4 pigeons.
1 lb. of rump-steak.
Yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs.
Pepper and salt.
Some puff or other paste made with 1 lb. of flour.
_Method._--Prepare the pie-dish, and roll out the paste as for
beef-steak pie.
Draw the pigeons, and cut them in halves.
Cut the steak into thin strips, the way of the grain.
Season the steak and pigeons nicely, and put them into the pie-dish with
the hard-boiled yolks.
Pour in the water.
Cover with the paste, and finish like a beef-steak pie.
Wash and clean the legs of two of the pigeons, and stick them in the
hole in the top of the pie.
Bake for about an hour and a half.
Veal-and-Ham Pie.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of veal cutlet.
½ lb. of ham.
4 hard-boiled eggs.
1 dessertspoonful of chopped parsley.
1 lemon.
Pepper and salt.
Some puff, flaky, or other pastry, made with 1 lb. of flour.
_Method._--Roll out the paste, and prepare the dish as for beef-steak
pie.
Cut the veal and ham into neat pieces.
Season them well, and sprinkle them with the parsley and lemon juice.
Put them into the pie-dish with the eggs cut in halves.
Pour in the water.
Cover with paste, and decorate like a beef-steak pie.
Bake for about two hours.
Cornish Pasties.
_Ingredients_--Some plain short crust.
Equal quantities of beef-steak or beef-skirt and potatoes.
1 onion, finely chopped.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Cut the meat and potatoes into small dice, and mix them with
the onion, pepper, and salt.
Roll out the pastry.
Stamp it into rather large rounds with the lid of a small saucepan.
Wet round the edges of the paste, and place a small heap of meat and
potatoes in the middle of each round.
Double the paste, bringing the edges to the top.
Goffer round them with the fingers to form a frill.
Place the pasties on a greased baking-sheet, and bake in a quick oven
from half an hour to an hour.
Sausage Rolls.
_Ingredients_--Some puff or flaky crust.
Sausages.
1 egg.
_Method._--Parboil the sausages.
Skin them, cut them in halves, and let them cool.
Roll out the paste; cut it into squares.
Brush the edges with beaten egg.
Lay a half sausage on each piece of paste, and roll the paste round it,
pressing the edges together.
Brush the rolls with beaten egg.
Lay them on a greased baking-sheet.
Bake in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty minutes.
Apple Tart.
_Ingredients_--2 lb. of apples.
3 oz. of moist sugar.
Some pastry.
5 cloves or the grated rind of a small lemon.
¼ pint of water.
_Method._--Make some pastry according to directions given for short
crust (the quantity made from ¾ lb. of flour will be sufficient).
Roll out the paste in an oval shape to a quarter of an inch in
thickness.
Invert a pint pie-dish, lay the paste over it, and cut it the size and
shape of the under side of the dish.
Roll out the remaining pieces, and cut in strips about one inch wide.
Wet the edges of the pie-dish, and lay them evenly round it.
Peel, core, and quarter the apples.
Put them into the pie-dish, mixing them with the sugar.
Pile them up well in the middle of the dish, pressing them to an oval
shape with the hands.
Pour in the water, and sprinkle over the lemon rind or cloves.
Wet the edges of the pastry, lining the dish, and put over the piece
reserved for the cover.
Press the edges lightly together, and trim with a knife.
Make a small hole with a skewer on either side of the cover to let the
steam escape.
To glaze, brush over with the white of an egg, and dust with castor
sugar.
Bake from half to three-quarters of an hour. The oven should be very
quick at first, and moderate afterwards.
Any Fruit Tart may be made by this recipe. Sugar must be added
according to the acidity of the fruit used.
Genoise Pastry.
_Ingredients_--6 oz. of flour.
6 oz. of butter.
8 oz. of castor sugar.
7 eggs.
_Method._--Melt the butter in a stewpan, and brush over a _sauté_ pan or
shallow cake tin with it.
Line the pan with paper, and brush that also with the melted butter.
Break the eggs into a basin.
Add to them the sugar, and beat with a whisk for about twenty minutes
until they rise.
The basin containing them may be placed on a saucepan of hot water; but
care must be taken that the heat is not too great, as that would cook
the eggs.
When the eggs are sufficiently beaten, _stir_ in the flour and butter
_very lightly_.
If _beaten_ in, the pastry will not be light.
Pour the mixture into the pan, and bake for about an hour.
Genoise Sandwiches.
_Ingredients_--Genoise pastry.
Jam.
_Method._--Cut the Genoise pastry into slices.
Spread them with jam.
Lay the slices one on the other, and cut in triangular shapes.
Genoise iced-cakes.
_Ingredients_--Genoise pastry.
Jam.
Grated cocoa-nut.
Iceing.
_Method._--Stamp out small cakes of Genoise pastry with a round cutter.
Spread the sides thinly with jam.
Roll the cakes in the cocoa-nut.
Ice round the top of the cakes, and put some jam in the middle of the
iceing.
Genoise Preserve-cakes.
_Ingredients_--Uncooked Genoise pastry.
Some preserve.
Some syrup of sugar and water.
Hundreds and thousands.
Chopped _pistachio_ kernels.
Grated cocoa-nut.
_Method._--Partly fill small well-buttered dariol moulds with the
Genoise mixture, and bake in a moderate oven.
When done, and sufficiently cool, cut a small circular piece from the
bottom of the cakes.
Scoop out some of the inside, and fill them with the preserve.
Replace the small circular piece.
Brush the cakes over with the syrup, and roll them in the hundreds and
thousands, chopped _pistachio_, and cocoa-nut.
They should be entirely covered with the decorations.
Pile them prettily on a dish, and decorate them with holly leaves.
Almond Cakes.
_Ingredients_--Genoise pastry.
Almonds.
The white of 1 egg.
1 oz. of castor sugar.
_Method._--Stamp out the Genoise pastry into small cakes, with round
cutters.
Beat the white of egg, mix it with the castor sugar, and spread it over
the cakes.
Sprinkle them well with almonds, blanched and chopped.
Put them in a moderate oven to take a pale fawn colour.
Cheese Cakes.
_Ingredients_--Some remains of puff pastry.
2 oz. of sugar.
2 oz. of butter.
1 lemon.
Half a sponge cake.
1 whole egg and 1 yolk.
_Method._--Cream the butter in a basin.
Add to it the castor sugar.
Beat well together, adding one by one the yolks of the eggs.
Then mix in the grated lemon peel, and the lemon juice and the sponge
cake, rubbed through a wire sieve.
Lastly, stir in lightly half the white of the egg, beaten to a stiff
froth.
Roll out the pastry.
Stamp into rounds with a fluted cutter dipped in hot water.
Lay the rounds in patty pans, and put a little dummy of dough or bread
in the middle of each.
Bake them in a quick oven.
When nearly cooked, remove the dummies and fill their places with the
cheese-cake mixture.
Return them to the oven until the pastry is cooked and the cheese-cake
mixture has taken a pale colour.
Tartlets.
_Ingredients_--The remains of puff paste.
Some preserve.
_Method._--Roll out the paste, and stamp into rounds with a fluted
cutter dipped in hot water.
Lay the rounds on patty pans.
Place in the middle of each a dummy, made of dough or bread.
Bake in a quick oven.
When the pastry is cooked remove the dummies, and fill the places with
jam.
Plainer tartlets may be made with short, flaky, or other pastry.
Cheese d'Artois.
_Ingredients_--Remains of puff paste, or some flaky crust.
1 oz. of butter.
1 whole egg and 1 yolk.
2 oz. of Parmesan cheese.
A little cayenne.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Cream the butter well in a basin.
Beat in the eggs, and add the grated cheese.
Season with pepper, salt, and cayenne.
Divide the pastry into two portions, and roll them out as thinly as
possible.
Lay one piece on a greased baking-sheet.
Spread it over with the cheese mixture, and lay the other on the top.
Mark it with the back of a knife in strips, one inch wide and three
inches long.
Brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a quick oven, until the paste is
cooked. Cut out the strips with a sharp knife.
Dish them on a folded napkin, and sprinkle them with grated cheese.
Cheese Straws.
_Ingredients_--2 oz. of flour.
2 oz. of butter.
2 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese.
The yolk of an egg.
A little cayenne.
Pepper and salt.
_Method._--Rub the butter lightly into the flour.
Add the grated cheese and seasoning, and mix with the yolk of egg.
If necessary, add another yolk, but no water.
Roll out and cut into fingers about a quarter of an inch wide and two
inches long.
Lay them on a greased baking-sheet.
Stamp out with a cutter, the size of an egg-cup, some rounds, and make
them into rings by stamping out the middles with a smaller cutter.
Bake the rings and straws a pale fawn colour, and serve them with a
bundle of straws placed in each ring.
Gooseberry Turnovers.
_Ingredients_--Some gooseberries.
Sugar.
Short crust.
_Method._--Pick off the heads and tails of the gooseberries.
Roll out the paste and cut into rather large rounds.
Wet the edges and put some gooseberries in the middle of each round,
with a teaspoonful of sugar.
Fold the paste over and press the edges together.
Decorate the edges with a fork or spoon.
Put the turnovers on a greased baking-sheet, and bake in a quick oven
for fifteen minutes.
Petit Choux.
_Ingredients_--5 oz. of flour.
2 oz. of butter.
3 oz. of castor sugar.
3 whole eggs.
½ pint of water.
_Method._--Rub the flour through a sieve.
Put the butter and water on to boil.
When boiling, stir in the flour and sugar.
Beat well over the fire, until the mixture leaves the sides of the
saucepan, then remove the saucepan from the fire and beat in three eggs.
Shape like eggs, with two dessertspoons and a knife dipped in hot water.
Lay the pastry on a greased baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven
for one hour.
To serve, open the cakes at the side and insert a little whipped cream
or preserve.
Decorate by brushing them over with white of egg, or a syrup of sugar
and water, and sprinkle with chopped _pistachio_ kernels, grated
cocoa-nut, or hundreds and thousands.
Apple Turnovers.
Make like gooseberry turnovers, substituting minced apple for
gooseberries.
Apple Dumplings.
_Ingredients_--1 dozen apples.
1 lb. of short crust.
A little moist sugar.
_Method._--Pare the apples and remove the cores; fill the holes with
sugar.
Take pieces of paste large enough to cover the apples. Do not roll them,
but draw the paste over the apples.
Wet the edges to make them join.
Place the dumplings on a greased tin and bake for about three-quarters
of an hour or one hour. The length of time will depend on the kind of
apples used.
PUDDINGS.
A pudding which is to be boiled should be placed in a well-greased
basin, or mould, which it should quite fill. A scalded and floured cloth
should be tied securely over it. Some puddings, such as suet, plum, &c.,
may be cooked without the basin, the mixture being firmly tied in a
well-scalded and floured cloth, a little room being allowed for the
pudding to swell. When cooked in this way, it is well to put a plate in
the saucepan to prevent the pudding sticking to the bottom and burning.
To cook a boiled pudding successfully, the water should be kept briskly
boiling during the whole of the time it is cooking, and there should be
sufficient water in the saucepan to well cover it. A kettle of boiling
water should be at hand to fill up the saucepan as required. In steaming
puddings, unless a steamer is used, the water should not be allowed to
come more than halfway up the pudding-mould, and must only gently
simmer, until the pudding is cooked. The mould used need not be covered
with a cloth, but a piece of greased paper should be placed over it to
prevent the condensed steam dropping on the pudding. Some puddings
require to be steamed very carefully, such as contain custard, for
example. A custard pudding will be honeycombed (i.e. full of holes), if
the water is allowed to boil; the heat of boiling will curdle the eggs.
Most baked puddings require a moderate oven, particularly such as rice,
tapioca, &c.
In preparing suet for puddings, remove the skin, slice the suet, and
then chop it finely, using a little flour to prevent it sticking to the
knife. Currants must be well washed and dried. Sultanas should be rubbed
in flour, and the stalks picked off.
Beef-steak Pudding.
_Ingredients_--1 lb. of flour.
¾ or ½ lb. of suet.
1½ lb. of beef or rump steak.
½ lb. of bullock's kidney.
Seasoning.
_Method._--Chop the suet finely, mix well with the flour, adding a pinch
of salt.
Mix to a paste with cold water.
Roll it out, and line a greased quart-basin, reserving one-third for the
cover.
Cut the steak into thin strips, and the kidney into slices.
Mix some pepper and salt on a plate, and season the meat nicely.
Roll each piece of meat round a tiny piece of the fat, and place the
rolls and the pieces of kidney in the basin.
Pour in rather more than a quarter of a p
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