Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833
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Title: Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833
Author: John Auldjo
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| Transcriber's note: |
| |
| Turkish names seem to be spelled generally in French, |
| which was the Lingua Franca of the period. These have |
| not been corrected. The correct Turkish spellings of |
| some of these names are given at the end of the book. |
+---------------------------------------------------------+
JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, &c. &c.
"You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red books, if they
are not rubbed out; for I conclude you have not trusted every thing to
memory, which is ten times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed
on or near the spot, is worth a cart load of recollection."
GRAY's _Letters_.
London:
Printed by A. Spottiswoode,
New-Street-Square.
JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE,
AND SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS,
IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833.
by
JOHN AULDJO, ESQ. F.G.S.
Author of "The Ascent of Mont Blanc,"
"Sketches of Vesuvius," Etc.
[Illustration: VIEW IN THE GULF OF CORON. [p. 235.]]
London:
Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, Green, & Longman,
Paternoster-Row.
1835.
TO
SIR WILLIAM GELL.
DEAR SIR,
On quitting Naples, for those scenes which your pen and pencil have so
faithfully illustrated, I promised to fill my note book. I now offer you
its contents, as a small and unworthy token of my gratitude for the long
continued kindness you have shown.
Your faithful and obedient servant,
THE AUTHOR.
_Naples, April, 1835._
PREFACE.
The publication of the pages of a journal in the crude and undigested
form in which they were originally composed appears so disrespectful to
the public, that it requires some explanation. They were written,
"currente calamo," among the scenes they describe; more as a record of
individual adventure, and to fix the transient impressions of the moment
for the after gratification of the author, than with any hope of
affording amusement during an idle hour, even to those who might feel an
interest in all he saw and noted.
The intense curiosity, however, which exists at present to learn even
the minutest particulars connected with Greece and Turkey, and the
possibility that some of his hurried notices might not be altogether
devoid of interest, have induced the author to submit them to the public
attention. In so doing, he has preferred giving them in their original
state, with all their defects, to moulding them into a connected
narrative; his object being not to "make a book," but to offer his
desultory remarks as they arose; to present the faint outline he
sketched upon the spot, rather than attempt to work them into finished
pictures.
With some hope, therefore, of receiving indulgence from the critics,
whose asperity is rarely excited except by the overweening pretensions
of confident ignorance and self-sufficiency, he ventures on the ground
already trodden by so many distinguished men, whose works, deep in
research, beautiful in description, and valuable from their scrupulous
fidelity, have left little to glean, and rendered it a rather hazardous
task for an humble and unskilful limner to follow in their wake.
While thus disclaiming all pretensions to the possession of their
enviable talents, still, if the author should succeed in affording his
readers a few hours' pleasure from the perusal of his Journal, or enable
any one to re-picture scenes he may himself have visited, the principal
object of its publication will have been attained.
_Naples, April, 1835._
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Departure of H.M.S. Actaeon with the British Embassy to
Constantinople 1
Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene 3
My first Night at Sea 4
Sunday on Board 5
Schoolmaster of the Actaeon. Muster of the Crew 6
Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius 7
Scylla and Charybdis. Homer 8
The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land 9
Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances 10
Man overboard. Life 11
Cerigo. Taygetus 12
Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam 13
Nauplia de Malvoisie 14
Classic Reminiscences. Argos 15
Sharks. Greek Costume 16
Character of King Otho 17
Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet 19
Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis 20
Athens. The Piraeus. Olive Grove 21
English Residents at Athens 22
Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses 23
Insolence of the Turks 24
Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave 25
Armenian Missionaries. Temple of Theseus 26
Metropolis of modern Greece 27
Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm 28
Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of
Sir W. Gell's Map 30
Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus 31
Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi 32
The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory.
Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus 33
Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza 34
Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet 35
Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour 36
Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles 37
Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute 38
First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers 39
The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate 40
Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul 41
Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actaeon to her Anchorage 42
Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships 43
Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses 44
Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp.
Saluting the Russian Fleet 45
Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral.
French and English Embassies 46
Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine
Bowers 47
The Caique. Turkish Boatmen 48
Paras. Splendid Fountain. Tophana 49
Pera. Destructive Fire. Guiseppino Vitali 50
Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the
Bosphorus 51
Funeral of a Russian Soldier 52
Landing of the British Ambassador 53
Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars 54
Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes 56
Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces 57
Value of the Turkish Pipe 58
Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile 59
Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar 60
Jewellery. Broussa Silks 61
Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's
Physician 62
Lord Ponsonby's Audience 63
His Reception. Count Orloff 64
Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments 65
Cricket. Turkish Fleet 66
Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the
Sweet Waters" 67
Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries 68
Palace. Turkish Horses 69
Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek 70
The Erraba. Turkish Ladies 71
Dancing Dervishes 73
Greek Bookseller 76
Mosque of Solimanie 77
Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations 78
View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius.
Burnt Pillar 79
Hippodrome 80
The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia 81
Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key 82
Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp 83
Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac.
Mahalabe 84
Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana 85
Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of
the Actaeon 87
Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments 88
Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct 89
Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks 90
Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs 91
Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story 92
College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground 93
Sultan's Visit to the Mosque 94
Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot 95
Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan 96
The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and
Dress of the Grand Signior 97
His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote 98
New Regulation Soldier 99
Palace of the British Embassy 100
Scene in the Arm Bazaar 101
George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades.
Turkish Merchants 102
Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper 103
Jew Brokers. Actaeon 104
Humours of a Turkish Auction 105
Slave Market 106
A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves 108
Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary 109
Armenian Visiteos. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman 110
Oriental Costume 111
Turks. Armenians. Greeks 112
Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English
Character 113
Oriental Politeness. Portraits 114
Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt 115
Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalee. Ladies' Dresses 116
Hummums 117
Eastern Story-teller 121
Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness.
Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul 122
Naval Banquet 128
Seven Towers 131
Tomb of Ali Pasha 134
Russian Insolence 136
Visit to Ibrahim Pasha 137
Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English
Gentleman 138
Laughable Anecdote of a Turk 139
Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks
and Greeks 141
The Muezzin 144
Madame Mauvromati. The Plague 146
Massacre of the Greeks 147
Anecdote of the Sultan 148
Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers 151
Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks 152
Greek Lady. Elegant Costume 153
Affability of the Turkish Females 156
The Pilot of the Actaeon and the Seraskier 157
Foreign Visitors 159
Oriental Beauty 160
The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey 162
Morning Prayer. The Muezzin 163
Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart 164
Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby 165
Russian Insolence to an English Party 166
Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha 167
Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio 168
The Symplegades 169
Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth 170
Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper 171
Grand Review. Splendid Staff 172
Giant's Mountain 174
Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus 175
Prince Butera and the Sultan 177
Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the
Prince 178
Royal Country Seat 180
Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring 181
Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actaeon.
Lord Ponsonby 182
Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia 183
Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to
Lord Ponsonby 189
Armenian Painter. Poetical Description
of Constantinople 190
My fellow-Passengers 192
Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora 193
Greek Deputation. Anecdote 194
Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation 196
British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna 199
French Squadron. King of Greece 200
Smyrna. Excessive Heat 201
Departure for Syra 202
Accident. Island of Scio 203
Island of Tinos. Quarantine 204
Landing of the King. Ship Launch 206
Festival of St. John the Baptist 208
Syra. Bishop's Palace 209
Ladies of Mycone. Costume 210
Delos. Vulgar Tourists 211
Modern Antique 213
Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage 214
Visit to Antiparos 215
Marine Prospects. Spotico 216
Entrance to the Cavern 217
Perilous Descent 218
Melodramatic Scene 219
Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage 224
Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides 226
Splendid Transition 227
Dimensions of the Grotto 228
Terrified Frenchman. Our Return 229
A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene 231
Port of Milo 232
Warlike Mountaineers 233
Anecdote 234
Parting of the Royal Brothers 235
Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante 236
Distant View of Etna. Valetta 238
Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine 240
The Parlatorio 241
Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women 242
Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu 243
Valetta. Maltese Gazette 244
Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince 245
Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata 246
Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti 247
Temple of Hercules. Concord 248
Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon 249
Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house 250
Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage 251
Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves 252
Duchess de Berri 253
Scene on Board 254
Capri. Conclusion 256
_Addenda._
List of the Turkish Fleet in the Bosphorus, and of
Mohammed Ali's Navy 257
State of the Thermometer at Constantinople 258
Note to page 24 259
JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, ETC.
[Sidenote: DEPARTURE OF THE ACTAEON.] _Saturday, 6th April, 1833._--Well!
All seems at length arranged, and the oft postponed departure of H. M.
S. Actaeon for Constantinople, will probably take place this evening. But
is there no chance of a further detention? Yes; and many a palpitating
heart watches anxiously the state of the heavens.
The morning had been dark and stormy, and heavy vapours rolled along
from the north: about noon, however, the weather brightened; yet an
occasional cloud, passing over and discharging its liquid contents on
the lovely Naples, afforded some expectation that the evening might
prove unfavourable. If there were heaving bosoms on shore, there were
responding hearts on board; where there were few, indeed, who did not
feel some pang at bidding the syren city farewell.
The St. Lucia was thronged with numerous groups of pedestrians, and a
long line of carriages, with "weeping beauty filled,"--all manifesting a
deep interest in the scene. Sailors have generous hearts, which, like
wax, are soon warmed, and easily impressed; but as easily the image may
be effaced. Thus ladies assert, that blue jackets
"In every port a true love find."
Reflections akin to these, probably, may have tortured more than one of
the fair spectators; and mamma, perhaps, considered it extremely
mortifying that an opportunity was not given to _land_ the prize, as
well as _hook_ it; and that sailors, like jacks, were exceedingly
difficult to catch.
Boats pass rapidly to and from the ship;--the yards are manned; the
ambassador's flag flies at the main; and as the smoke from the salute
cleared away, the shore, with its precious and weeping burthen, was seen
fast receding from the sight. The Actaeon had actually sailed; and the
white handkerchiefs, with the ivory arms that waved them, gradually
became lost to the view, till distance mingled the entire scene into one
grey mass, and
"All was mist, and Naples seen no more."
Such were the transactions that marked the 6th of April, 1833, when I
became one of the ship's company, and received an honourable place in
her log.
[Sidenote: ISLAND OF CAPRI.] We were compelled to pass close under
Capri[1], and its bold perpendicular cliffs towered magnificently above
us, casting a deep shadow over the vessel as she sailed along. There was
little wind outside the isle, and we were nearly becalmed; but this
delay was amply compensated by the extreme beauty of the night. The
brilliant moon, shining with far greater lustre than I ever remember to
have witnessed, during the height of summer, in less favoured climes,
lighted up with its silver beams the whole of that beautiful coast
extending along the bay of Salerno, from Amalfi to Palinuro. Long did I
remain upon deck, gazing on
"Heaven's ebon vault,
Studded with stars unutterably bright;
Through which the moon's unclouded grandeur rolls."
[Sidenote: MY FIRST NIGHT AT SEA.] But at length, overcome by weariness,
I hastened to my cot.--My cot! how shall I describe thee? thou oblong,
narrow, swinging thing! rest still a while, nor fly me thus each time I
essay to get within thy narrow precincts. Oh! for a chair, a stool, a
rope; or have they purposely swung thee so high? hadst thou been o'er a
gun, indeed, one might have scaled thee by the breech. So! In at last;
yet, with that eternal sentinel walking his rounds within a few paces of
my ear, how is it possible to sleep? Exhausted, however, by the novelty
and excitement of the past day, at length wearied nature asserted her
rights; and I had just begun to sink into a refreshing slumber, when
"Quarter," rang in my ears: again I start; ducks cackle, geese scream,
pigs grunt, cocks crow, men bawl; all the horrors of the incantation
scene in Der Freyschuetz would seem to accompany that same striking of
the bells.
"A ship is a thing you never can sleep quiet in,"
says an old song; and most feelingly did I subscribe to the veracious
assertion: at length, towards morning, by dint, I think, of conning over
that very line, I once more fell asleep.
But my slumbers were of short duration, for with daylight came the
order, "Wash decks." Then began slushing and swabbing, and bumping my
cot. All the live stock, too, were again in motion, and in fact, I soon
perceived it would be better at once to turn out. This was neither easy
nor agreeable, the deck being drenched with wet. However, I made up for
my night's restlessness by a hearty breakfast, and appeared on the
quarter-deck with a face exhibiting no symptoms of squeamishness. We are
making for Stromboli, which was visible in the horizon.
[Sidenote: SUNDAY ON BOARD.] _Sunday, 7th._--This morning, after the
crew had appeared at quarters,--that is, every man to his station,--the
bell rang for divine service, and all the chairs and benches above and
below, were put in requisition. The captain then read prayers on the
main deck, in a manner at once solemn and impressive. It may here be
remarked, that, when the ship carries out an ambassador, the youngsters
are exempt from school duties, and their holidays on the present
occasion are likely to be of considerable duration. The schoolmaster of
the Actaeon is a Scotchman, and his office cannot be an enviable one, if
half the tricks in store for him be ever put in practice; while the fact
of his hammock being swung close alongside those of his pupils, by no
means diminishes the facility of their execution. To-day being Sunday,
we dined at three o'clock; and our band, consisting of a drummer and
amateur fifer, played us to table with the well-known enlivening air of
"The roast beef of old England."
[Sidenote: MUSTER OF THE CREW.] In the evening we had a general muster,
and I am confident very few ships ever possessed a finer company than
the Actaeon. Really it was a gallant sight to witness this assemblage of
stout, able, daring fellows, equipped with their cutlasses and boarding
pikes. Looking at them, one no longer felt surprised at the vast naval
superiority which Great Britain has ever maintained in her contests with
foreign nations. The boatswain's mates, and the quartermasters, are
really handsome men, weatherbeaten and bold. Williams, one of the
latter, seems a most eccentric character. He is married, and constantly
receives letters from his absent rib: these, however, he never takes the
trouble to open, but keeps them all neatly tied up. On his return, he
says, she can read them to him, all of a lump!
[Sidenote: STROMBOLI.] We are now close to Stromboli, which appears to
be the remaining half of a large conical crater; the semicircle which is
lost, having fallen away into the sea. There is a small cone in the very
centre, from which the explosions take place. They were but slight on
the present occasion; and two small apertures emitted a continual cloud
of white vapour. The upper part of the old crater consists of layers of
rock rising regularly one above the other; and the whole surface much
resembles that of Somma.[2] The atmosphere was so clear that the island
appeared quite close to us, and I could scarcely credit the master when
he asserted it was full fifteen miles distant.
My cot being moved forward, I am infinitely more comfortable, having now
only the geese to disturb me. The vessel continued beating to windward
till mid-day, when she approached the Faro; and the breeze
strengthening, we had every prospect of clearing it.
[Sidenote: SCYLLA AND CHARYBDIS.] Scylla now appeared in view,--the
bold, rocky, and much dreaded Scylla,--
"Where sing the syren maids,
Uttering such dulcet and harmonious sounds,
That raptured mortals cannot hear, and live."
LYCOPHRON. _Cassandra._
It exhibits itself in the form of a grey perpendicular cliff; and as we
sailed by, the town appeared behind it, built on the face of a steep
slope, of the same colour as the surrounding mass. This is a dangerous
lee shore for a speranaro, but not much to be dreaded by a skilful
seaman. However, we were not gratified with the sight of any of those
monsters with which the imaginations of classic poets have peopled this
celebrated spot; we heard no barkings, nor did the waves even roar as
they lashed its famous rocks. Out of one scrape, into another!--
"Close by, a rock of less tremendous height
Breaks the wild waves, and forms a dangerous strait:
Full on its crown a fig's green branches rise,
And shoot a leafy forest to the skies;
Beneath, Charybdis holds her boisterous reign,
Midst roaring whirlpools, and absorbs the main.
Thrice in her gulphs the boiling seas subside;
Thrice in dire thunders she refunds the tide.
Oh! if thy vessel plough the direful waves,
When seas, retreating, roar within her caves,
Ye perish all! though he who rules the main
Lend his strong aid, his aid he lends in vain."
_Odyssey_, B. 12.
[Sidenote: PREPARATIONS TO LAND.] We were now close upon Charybdis,
where the water is shallow, and the low sands exceedingly dangerous, as
at times it is difficult to discern them. A most wretched village, and a
miserable lighthouse, represent this terror of the ancient Greek
mariners. A few Indian figs and stunted olive trees are almost the only
symptoms of vegetation discernible; and two fat priests, who were
basking in the sun, upon the sand, seemed the only inhabitants.
The coast on either side the Faro is very beautiful; and the land,
judging from the number of houses, villages, and appearance of general
cultivation, must be fertile. The wind having changed, we approached
Messina rapidly, gallantly nearing it, with all sail set. The heavens
threatened bad weather; and therefore the ambassador, tempted by the
neat and clean appearance of the town, resolved to go ashore. Every
preparation was made accordingly; the chain cable was clear, and the men
at the best bower-anchor; when, it being considered injudicious to lose
so fair a breeze, we again set sail, to the disappointment of most
persons on board; and Messina, with all its gay attractions, was soon
far astern. The wind, though fair, was rising into a gale as we got into
the open sea off Spartivento, and the ship rolled terribly. Dined to-day
with the captain, and found some difficulty in stowing away his good
fare, but got creditably through, until the wine began to circulate at
the dessert, when I was compelled to make a precipitate retreat, and
arrived at the gangway only just in time to save the honour of the
quarter-deck. However, I soon righted again, and at night took my grog
kindly in the _pighole_; which was considered no bad sign for an
incipient tar.
[Sidenote: SEA SICKNESS.] The following morning I was awakened at
daylight by a host of grievances,--a scraping above and a scraping
below, that set all my nerves in commotion. Oh! that some other means
could be devised for cleaning decks, than that of holy stoning them! It
roused me from a pleasant slumber, to the horrid consciousness of the
ship's pitching and rolling to such a degree that I was unable to raise
my head from the pillow. Then the alarm I was in, lest I should be
compelled to get up, and have my cot stowed away before eight o'clock.
Yet it was some consolation to know that we were scudding across the
Adriatic at the tremendous rate of ten, and sometimes eleven, knots an
hour; so that, if we continue to proceed thus rapidly much longer, the
voyage will soon be at an end. I was allowed to swing in my cot all day,
and partook of a good dinner into the bargain, which Master Thew, one of
the ship's boys, with whom I had become a great favourite, brought and
forced me to partake of. Got up in the evening for half an hour, and
showed on deck. What a splendid sight! The ship, with comparatively very
little canvas set, majestically ploughed her course through the mighty
billows, that seemed vainly endeavouring to arrest her career; though,
from the way in which she rolled, she must occasionally have been so
unpolite as to display her naked keel to the heavens.
[Sidenote: MAN OVERBOARD.] The mountains around Navarino are in sight:
'tis the land of Arcadia. The gale still continues, the wind whistles
shrilly through the rigging, and the sea roars and tosses us about.
Perceiving a great stir on deck, I sang out to inquire the cause: "A man
overboard," was the reply. I made instant preparations to hasten up, in
the hope of seeing him rescued. The cutter and gig were down, and the
life-buoy out, in an instant, but, poor fellow! he could not swim; and,
though he rose near the buoy, he had not strength to seize it; and after
struggling for a few moments, now deep in a trough of the sea, now
mounted aloft on the summit of the waves, he sank to rise no more. The
swell was so tremendous, that the boats with difficulty reached the
buoy; and some fears were entertained lest they should be unable to live
in such a sea. After considerable suspense, they returned in safety to
the ship, and we proceeded in our rapid course, as if nothing
extraordinary had happened. The life-buoy is a most admirable invention.
It hangs astern the tafrail, and is dropped by pulling a trigger, which
is always done by the person next at hand on the occurrence of an
accident. If it should happen at night, a similar contrivance fires a
train, which lights a lamp in the buoy; and the poor drowning man
discerns, in an instant, the means of preserving his life. The gale
increasing from the N.W., the storm sails were set; but, by noon, we
neared the coast, and ran into the bay of Servia, where we found shelter
and calm water. The coast is extremely bold, but very barren.
[Sidenote: THE LIFE-BUOY.--CERIGO.] _Thursday, 11th._--At eight o'clock
A.M. we were sailing, with a gentle breeze, between the island of Cerigo
and the mainland. The snow-capped mountain of Taygetus rose behind the
lofty coast in the extreme distance. Cerigo is also very barren: I could
perceive very little appearance of cultivation. There are two villages
in the upper part of the island; and there is another, considerably
larger, on the south side. Two companies of British soldiers, with a
resident, are stationed here, and a state of perfect banishment it must
prove, the only amusement being field sports, and the island is by no
means well stocked with game. Cerigo was famous, in antiquity, for the
worship of Venus; and the goddess of beauty rose from the sea somewhere
near the spot where we now are. After getting out of the strait, and
weathering Cape St. Angelo, the sea again became rough, and we beat
about the point all day, much to my regret, for the quiet experienced in
the bay of Servia was quite delightful, after the tossing boisterous
weather we had in the Adriatic. A Greek steamer passed us in the course
of the day, but did not come within hail.
[Sidenote: PIPING UP THE WATCH.] Among the various grievances which
nightly disturb my rest, the piping up of the different watches must not
be omitted. A long shrill whistle first rouses me, followed by the
hoarse cry of "All the starboard watch." Another similar prelude, is the
forerunner of "Hands to shorten sail," or, "Watch make sail:" and as if
each of these was not in itself sufficient to "murder sleep," the
purser's bantam cock invariably responds with a long loud crow. From
the first, I have vowed the death of that hero; but he is so great a
favourite among the crew, that I can tempt no one to be his executioner.
However, the captain's steward has been argued into the propriety of
killing the old gander, which is a great victory. With it I am fain to
be content for the present; and the "Purser's Tom" must still crow on in
a solo, though the other has ceased to sing second.
[Sidenote: NAUPLIA DI MALVOISIE.] This is a most lovely morning; a light
breeze wafts us up the gulf of Napoli, while far on the eastern horizon,
rise the islands of Spezzia and Hydra; and further to the south, that of
Kaimena. We are now off the singular looking town of Nauplia di
Malvoisie, built on a square island, having two platforms, each
resembling a gigantic stair. The lower town is walled on three sides
only, as the perpendicular face of the cliff renders any defence
unnecessary on that side; and on the summit of the precipice stands the
upper town and castle. The rock is of a red colour, and the whole has a
very picturesque appearance. A narrow isthmus and a lofty bridge connect
the island with the adjacent continent. The mountains are barren; but
the valleys appeared green and beautiful.
[Sidenote: CLASSIC REMINISCENCES.] Early the following morning, we
anchored off Nauplia di Romania, and were saluted by H. M. S. Barham, a
French store-ship, and two Russian brigs. From the delay occasioned by
the minister's coming on board, and by visits from the authorities and
captains of the men of war, it was late ere we got on shore. I had
therefore time to gaze on the beautiful panorama around, embracing the
land of Argos, once so celebrated, and still associated with the
school-boy's earliest recollections. In the distance, on a pointed
hill, stands its ruined city. Before me, on the plain, I beheld all that
remained of Tirynth; in the mountains stood Mycenae; and to the north,
Epidauras. How many interesting fictions are connected with these
scenes! Here Hercules was born and passed his youthful days; and here,
too, he performed many of his most illustrious labours; here stood the
brazen tower of the lovely Danae; here Perseus reigned; here the fifty
daughters of Danaus murdered their new-married husbands in a single
night; here Juno was born; and in Argos, too, Agamemnon reigned. On the
left of my position, looking towards the sea, rises a lofty sombre
cliff, whence a chain of sloping rocks extend to the fortress above
Nauplia, the castellated Palamide. Within its dungeons, Grievas and
several other rebels, with the pirates lately taken, are now confined.
At the base of the Palamide, rises a second hill, on which is built the
town, extending down to the water's edge. I am told there are some
remains of ancient fortifications on the side next to the citadel, but I
could discover none that boasted of very remote antiquity. Outside the
town, is a public walk beautifully embowered in trees.
[Sidenote: SHARKS.--NAUPLIA.] Several sharks made their appearance round
the Barham, and sometimes approached our vessel. As they sailed rapidly
up and down, their sharp serrated fins rising above the surface of the
calm unruffled waves, reminded me of the circular saw at Portsmouth
dockyard, working its way through some vast beam of timber, verging
neither to right or left, but keeping on its steady course heedless of
all impediments. The rifles were quickly in requisition, and several of
the officers of the Barham repeatedly shot at them, but did not manage
to boat one.
Went on shore, and visited the modern town of Nauplia; where I observed
that many respectable houses have been recently erected, several good
shops opened, and the streets are much cleaner than might be expected.
Its old palace was an insignificant building, but they are adding
considerably to it. The Greeks being forbidden to carry arms, their
costume is less picturesque than formerly; but, on some of the
noble-looking figures I saw, it still appeared handsome and becoming.
None of Graecia's beauteous daughters were visible to-day, all the women
being invariably ugly, and by no means well dressed. To-morrow is a
_festa_, when perhaps I shall have more reason to admire them.
[Sidenote: CHARACTER OF KING OTHO.]_Sunday, 14th._--Walked towards
Argos, and took a sketch of the bay, but observed no pretty faces, and
very few handsome dresses either native or foreign. The Bavarian troops
are mean-looking men, and their light blue uniform is far from imposing.
On my return I saw the king walk in procession to church. The Greeks, no
doubt, dislike his religion, they being much more intolerant towards
Roman Catholics than the Protestants are; yet, as he visits the churches
on all _festas_, they do not openly murmur. His personal appearance
certainly wants dignity, and his Tartar features appear to great
disadvantage when contrasted with those of true Grecian mould, by which
he is surrounded. However, his prepossessing manners and perfect
urbanity, in some measure compensate for these personal defects; and,
upon the whole, the people appear well pleased and contented with their
youthful monarch. It is said the palikari, or soldiers of the late
governments, do not unite themselves with the regular army which is
forming, so readily as was expected, and that recourse must again be had
to Bavarian troops to keep the country in a state of subjection, and
protect the industrious. Our Greek pilot (he was once a pirate), with a
large party of his friends, met us in the town. We enquired how they
liked their king: their reply was, they had no alternative, since the
allies had sent him; but added, that they were ready to treat him as
they had previously done Capo d'Istrias, should he attempt any thing
against their liberties.
The king mixes a good deal with his new subjects; he rides out every day
without guards, and almost unattended; and strolls upon the public
promenade at the hours when the _beau monde_ frequent it. His presence,
however, excites little attention; and, except by his uniform, the star
upon his breast, and the few aides-de-camp who attend him, he would
hardly be recognised by a stranger.
[Sidenote: HYDRA.--EGINA]. _Monday, 15th._--The ambassador having
received despatches from Constantinople, announcing the arrival of
Russian troops, we were unexpectedly compelled to set sail again
immediately, and our vessel passed between the island of Spezzia and the
main land this morning with a fair wind. The town is pretty, the houses
being detached, and displaying an appearance of great neatness.
Spezzia, from its exceedingly commodious harbour, has always engrossed
much of the carrying trade to and from the continent of Greece; and the
inhabitants are, consequently, wealthy. In the afternoon we coasted
along the island of Hydra, which presents nothing but lofty barren
cliffs, until you arrive close to the town that is built round the
crater of an extinct volcano, the centre of which forms the harbour.
Owing to the extreme depth of the water, there is no anchorage, and all
craft are moored to the wharfs. The town very much resembles Amalfi, and
is protected by two forts, one of which mounts twelve, and the other
sixteen, guns. From the proximity of either shore, the entrance to the
harbour is singularly beautiful; and the surrounding country, though
barren, is very bold and picturesque. Passing Poros in the distance, we
now entered the Gulf of Egina, the prospect hourly increasing in
richness and beauty. The Russian fleet lay at anchor in Poros, and we
plainly descried the admiral's flag flying on shore. In the evening we
approached
"Egina's beauteous isle,"
and could distinguish, on the summit of a hill, the ruins of its temple,
of which there are, I believe, twenty-three columns still remaining
up-right. It is impossible for the imagination to conceive any landscape
more lovely than the one now before us. The wooded isle,--the ruined
temple, rising above the dense masses of foliage,--Athens and its
Acropolis, just distinguishable in the distance,--Pentelicus and
Hymettus ranging behind it, and, farther to the right, Cape Colonna. The
sky was clear and beautifully blue, and a light breeze wafted us slowly
over the rippling waves. There was not the slightest swell; all was
calm, tranquil, and serene. Then, when the sun sunk behind Morea's
hills, and shed a flood of gorgeous light over the whole landscape, it
produced a picture, the loveliness of which will for ever remain
impressed upon my memory.
[Sidenote: GULF OF SALAMIS.] _Tuesday, 16th._--The gulf, or bay, of
Salamis, into which we were now sailing, is a deep inlet, surrounded by
an amphitheatre of low semicircular hills. Here the army of Xerxes was
posted; and the highest of these knolls is still pointed out as the spot
where stood the golden throne of the Persian monarch, when he looked
upon that battle which so humbled his pride.
"A king sat on the rocky brow
Which looks o'er sea-born Salamis;
And ships, by thousands, lay below,
And men in nations:--all were his.
He counted them at break of day,
And when the sun set, where were they?"
[Sidenote: ATHENS.] Again weighing anchor, in a quarter of an hour we
entered Porto Leone,--the ancient Piraeus; which, though deep enough to
float a seventy-four, is so very narrow at the entrance, that there is
but sufficient space for a vessel to pass, with a few feet on either
side to spare. We regretted the orders were, to be on board at night,
and that we should sail again at daylight. The ambassador landed under a
salute; but I waved this ceremony, and hastened ashore with a party of
officers and youngsters. We walked towards Athens, along the old road,
and struck into the olive grove, very little of which now remains, it
having been destroyed by both Greek and Turk. At length the Acropolis
burst upon our anxious view; and, as we toiled up the hill of the
Areopagus, the Temple of Theseus presented itself. Passing along the
miserable collection of mud and stones, here dignified with the name of
a wall, we entered this renowned city, once the seat of civilization and
the arts, but which, at present, consists of little more than an
assemblage of wretched hovels, the principal buildings having been
nearly all destroyed. Near the gate, one good house has been rebuilt;
and, a little farther on, a still larger mansion on speculation.
[Sidenote: ENGLISH RESIDENTS AT ATHENS.]This being a holyday, the bazaar
was closed, and after examining the remains of a building of Corinthian
architecture, supposed to have been Adrian's Library, we passed on to
the residence of Mr. Bell, an English gentleman, who has lately bought
property near Athens, where he resides, in a building which has suffered
less than many others. Mr. Finlay, who has lived upwards of ten years
among the Greeks, also possesses large property in and about Athens.
This gentleman undertook to be our cicerone, and we proceeded to the
hotel in search of the Bavarian commandant, from whom it is necessary to
obtain an order for admission, before we could visit the interior of the
Acropolis. On reaching the hotel, which, by the by, is a most excellent
and commodious house, we found the colonel at dinner, and the necessary
permission was immediately granted. The Acropolis had only been
surrendered to the new dynasty on Sunday last; and, had we arrived one
week earlier, we should have seen the crescent still towering over this
"abode of the Gods," instead of the Greek cross, by which it has been
replaced.
[Sidenote: DEATH OF THE CHIEFTAIN ULYSSES.] Passing the ruins of the
Temple of Victory, _involucris Victoria_[3], we soon arrived at the gate
of the fortress, and found the ambassador and Lady Ponsonby, with the
captain of the Actaeon, and other persons, endeavouring to gain
admission, which was resolutely refused by the Bavarian guard. Luckily
my order sufficed for us all; and we hurried up,--a motley group of
officers, sailors, Greeks, donkeys, horses, and idlers,--shouting,
laughing, and dissipating all the charm of the visit and the sanctity of
the spot. I therefore detached myself from the party as soon as
possible; and, in company with Mr. Finlay, endeavoured to pay that
attention to the wonders of the place, which I could not otherwise have
done. From the lofty tower erected by the Venetians, the brave chieftain
Ulysses was thrown down, and dashed to pieces. He was confined there;
and though his keepers assert that he met his death from the breaking of
a rope, by which he attempted to escape, there is little doubt he was
cast from the giddy height by design. The propylaea or vestibule is
nearly destroyed, and buried in ruins; but the columns, still extant,
are exceedingly beautiful: and the stone, which formed the architrave of
the door, is of an enormous size, but it is cracked in the centre. Hence
we proceeded to the Erechtheon, whose southern portico is still
supported by five caryatides, the sixth having been thrown down.
[Sidenote: INSOLENCE OF THE TURKS.] The neighbouring temple, which was
reserved as a harem for the women, whilst Athens was in possession of
the Turks, suddenly fell in, and crushed the whole of its unfortunate
occupants to death. In the centre of the temple of Minerva stands a
mosque, which is at present occupied as a barrack by the Bavarian
troops. Whenever the Osmanlis take possession of a Greek village, they
invariably ride into its Christian church, and endeavour to force their
horses to defile the altar. By way of retaliation, when their mosque was
delivered up last Sunday, certain Englishmen imitated their example. As
may be readily supposed, this incensed the Turks to a great degree; but,
like the conquered Christians, they were compelled to submit.
It were a needless task to expatiate on the beauty of this temple, with
its noble columns, and its magnificent metopes; for the best still
remain, where Lord Elgin could not reach them. The prospect from the
summit of the building, whither I mounted to inspect these interesting
relics, is most splendid; but then,
"Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground;
No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould;
But one vast realm of wonder spreads around,
And all the muse's tales seem truly told;
Till the sense aches with gazing, to behold
The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon."
[Sidenote: GRAVE OF TWEDDEL.] We next visited what is called
Demosthenes's Lantern, situated close to a ruined house, formerly the
Franciscan convent. Mr. Finlay and some others have cleared away the
rubbish and masses of fallen masonry from about the Lantern: they have
also dug a ditch around it, to prevent the devastation committed by
visitors who attempt to break and carry away the ornaments: they have
not yet learnt
"To pass in peace along the magic waste;
To spare its relics:--let no busy hand
Deface the scenes, already how defaced!"
The Temple of Theseus, one of the most perfect existing specimens of
ancient architecture, is an admirable combination of lightness and
solidity. Neither time, war, nor the hand of man, often a more ruthless
destroyer than either, has yet invaded the sanctity of this splendid
relic of Grecian art. The bodies of the unfortunate Tweddel, and of a
person named Watson, are buried within its precincts; and it struck me,
at the moment, that the remains of Byron might here have found an
appropriate resting-place.
[Sidenote: AMERICAN MISSIONARIES.] Having finished the round of
antiquities, we proceeded to Mr. Finlay's house, a very comfortable
mansion; in which he has collected some interesting relics of antiquity,
and among them, many very curious inscriptions. In this neighbourhood is
a large house built by the American missionaries, who have a school of
between 200 and 300 children, and do much good. The pupils follow the
religion of their parents, whether Greek or Turk; the missionary
confining his exertions to instructing them in reading, writing, and
some mechanical art, as well as in their duties to their parents and the
state. We returned to the hotel, and had an excellent dinner; with an
ample supply of good wine and English porter, although there were thirty
individuals present. The charges, too, were moderate; there was, of
course, a little attempt at imposition, _a la Grecque_; but that matter
was quickly arranged. Before we left the town it was quite dark, and on
passing the Temple of Theseus, it was then illuminated by the glare of a
large fire, round which a party of Greeks were dancing: it looked even
more beautiful than by daylight. On reaching the vessel, I retired to
my cot, and endeavoured to recall the splendid objects of the day's
ramble. But a very confused and imperfect representation remained, like
the recollection of a dream, of which some few prominent points had
alone been remembered.
[Sidenote: METROPOLIS OF MODERN GREECE.] It is not improbable that
Athens may be selected as the seat of government: this choice, however,
will arise less from the advantages of position, than from the
associations connected with its former history. Corinth is infinitely
more central; and Nauplia, from the excellence of its harbour, and the
facility of communication with the principal towns and with the isles,
would be a desirable city for that purpose. With this latter, the
government ought to be satisfied; and it is hardly to be conceived that
the king longs for fine palaces, and his ministers for superb hotels, in
the present depressed state of the country. Should they leave Nauplia,
and migrate to Athens, one half of the revenue will be expended in
building, if the plans which have been sketched out for the new town are
adhered to. One of these, proposes the Piraeus as the port, and that the
necessary warehouses, counting-houses, docks, &c. shall be erected
there; and from thence, a fine macadamised road is to lead to the city.
There, palaces, streets, public buildings are to be built, and walks and
gardens laid out. With this arrangement, all the plans, except one,
coincide; but they differ as to the exact site which the city ought to
occupy. [Sidenote: MODERN IMPROVEMENTS.] One suggests that the palace
and the principal buildings shall be outside the present town; and that
a large and broad street should extend from the temple of Theseus to
these modern improvements. I believe this is Gropuis's plan, who has
purchased all the property in the suburbs. Another proposes that the
palace shall be built on the side of the Acropolis towards the sea, near
the Odeum. The author of this scheme owns all the ground thereabouts; so
that private interest, and not patriotism, would seem to be the _primum
mobile_ of their suggestions. In fact, the whole of the land in and
about Athens is now the property of foreigners, who are speculating on
the immense prices to be obtained for ground-rent, &c. The landed
proprietors, and the common people, who are all labourers, are well
contented with the new arrangements; but the military chiefs and their
followers will, for a long time, be a stumbling-block in the way of the
government, even if they do not thwart and render nugatory all its
attempts at improvement.
[Sidenote: VALUE OF LAND.] Sir Pulteney Malcolm has built a magnificent
house, about two miles from the town, at the enormous cost of 3000_l._;
but at one time was on the eve of selling it for half that sum, so
discouraging were appearances on the political horizon of Greece. Now,
however, he is exceedingly glad that he did not; for, his being the only
house at all calculated for the king's residence, should the court
establish itself at Athens, it will probably be advantageously let to
the government. The value of land was extremely depreciated a few
months back, but it has since risen to such a height, that, for the
future, speculators arriving in Greece will be unable to purchase with
any prospect of advantage. The system of farming is that of the
_metayer_; and those who bought property when it was cheap, have
realised a certain profit, but far less than they expected. However,
such as own land within the walls will sell or let it again at a
considerable gain.
_Wednesday, 17th._--We quitted the Piraeus, with great regret, early this
morning, and continued beating about in the Bay of Egina, near Cape
Colonna, the whole day, which was fine, though excessively hot.
A light breeze carried us by Ipsara and Mitylene, and every one on board
was in high spirits at the prospect of seeing the Asiatic coast next
day.
[Sidenote: PLAIN OF TROY.] _Saturday, 20th._--We passed close under the
shore of Asia, opposite Alexandria Troas, the ruins of which were
visible, and, at length, came to anchor in Basike Bay, a little south of
the mouth of the Amnis Navigabilis, and opposite to AEsachus's tomb. I
landed after dinner, and, having waded up to the middle through the
river, walked to a tumulus on the south side of Jene Keni, the top of
which affords a fine view of the plain of Troy and the entrance to the
Dardanelles. Luckily, I had with me a tracing of Sir William Gell's map,
the exactness of which enabled me to point out to my companions the
principal points of interest. The plain is extremely rich and fertile,
and, altogether, had quite an English air. A considerable quantity of
timber is scattered about very picturesquely, and numerous herds of
goats and cattle grazing added to the beauty of the scene. The ground
was enamelled with the bright colours of millions of anemones; and
storks, small tortoises, and brown-coloured snakes were seen in vast
numbers in all directions.
_Sunday, 21st._--The wind blew so hard to-day, and there was such a swell
on the beach, that it was impossible to land. A French government cutter
passed us from Constantinople, with despatches for the French admiral.
The captain came on board, and reported that the Russian force was
receiving daily accessions; that Lord Ponsonby's arrival was anxiously
expected; and that peace had been concluded between Ibrahim and the
Porte.
[Sidenote: SOURCES OF THE SCAMANDER.] _Monday, 22nd._--Started this
morning, with the doctor, the master, and the tutor for Troy. We
ascended AEsachus's tomb, and proceeded thence across undulating hills,
covered with stunted oaks and brambles, varied occasionally by large
tracts of cultivation, towards the sources of the Scamander, indicated
by the grove of willows and poplars around them. Passing a large swamp,
where there were innumerable storks and waterfowl, we at last arrived at
the famous spring, called the Cold Spring, in Gell's map. It lies under
a hill, and is surrounded by oak, willow, fig, and poplar trees, having
brambles and wild vines hanging from them in festoons. Here, the clear
water of the golden Xanthus flowing among the reeds, and over the
ochre-coloured stones, tempts the thirsty passer-by with its cool and
refreshing appearance.
We sat down on a green mound, between the largest of the two springs,
and tried the temperature of them all. There are three principal sources
rising out of the base of the rock, which is a limestone breccia; the
fragments imbedded being limestone and reddish sandstone, which
communicates to the water its golden hue. The temperature of the air was
55-6/10, and that of the springs, No. 1, 64 deg.; 2, 65 deg.; 3, 65 deg.[4]
[Sidenote: TOMBS OF HECTOR AND PARIS.] Thence we proceeded to the source
called the Hot Springs; the only difference in the actual temperature
being one degree, but on immersing the hand there is a sensible warmth.
These are also under a grove of trees, situated near the village of
Bounarbashi.[5] We ascended the tombs of Hector and Paris, which command
a fine view of the Simois in its entire course, from the point where it
issues from the mountains, to its junction with the Hellespont. There
were no antiquities, besides a remnant of a granite column, neither did
we observe any inhabitants, except an old man and a few children; but
myriads of storks covered the fields in every direction. Returning to
the Scamander, we lunched at its sources; and then reclining on a
beautiful piece of turf, under the shade of a wide spreading oak, we
enjoyed our pipes until the declining sun warned us to bend our course
towards the ship.
[Sidenote: ABYDOS.] _Tuesday, 23d._--We sailed this morning, as the wind
proved fair for entering the Dardanelles. In passing close to the Segean
promontory, which is covered with windmills, the view of the Asiatic
fort and the town, with the tombs of Achilles and Patroclus, and,
further on, that of Ajax, opened upon us.[6] [Sidenote: PASSAGE OF THE
DARDANELLES.] The castles appeared well fortified on the side exposed to
the sea, their enormous guns lying on a level with the surface of the
water; but, landward, they are defenceless. The shores of the channel
are by no means so lofty as I was prepared to find them, and of their
much vaunted beauty I saw nothing, saving now and then a green and
cultivated valley, which are indeed "few, and far between." The cliffs
appeared to be composed of a coarse and soft sandstone, nearly white,
resembling chalk at a distance. We came to anchor a few miles above the
castles, with the consolation that the north wind, now set in, might
perhaps continue to blow for weeks. Contrary to our expectations,
however, the breeze having veered to the southward in the course of the
day, we weighed, and advanced a short distance up the channel; but the
wind again dying away, the current bore us back, and we anchored in our
former position.
There are now seventy of the crew on the sick list, including the first
and third lieutenant, the master, and several of the youngsters, all
like myself, suffering from the influenza. The sailors have christened
it the Dardanelles fever; and the men who are well, swear the others
sham illness, in order to escape the working through the Hellespont.
Should the captain get impatient and resolve to beat up, there will be
no end to the tacking, and the orders, "Her helm's a lee, and mainsail
haul," will be sufficiently imprinted on my memory.
[Sidenote: PRESENT TO THE AMBASSADOR.] _Monday, 29th._--Heavy rain all
day, accompanied by cold, and a strong gale. In the evening it cleared
up, and I went on shore for a short time. On either side of the channel
were a great number of vessels, waiting for the southerly wind to carry
them up to Constantinople; and now, with their sails out to dry, they
presented the singular appearance of a fleet in full sail--without
advancing. A small cutter, which serves as a packet between Smyrna and
Stamboul, worked by us before dark; she was crowded with passengers,
among whom were several ladies. The news she brought was of no great
importance, saving the certainty that the French fleet, consisting of
four sail of the line and two frigates, had arrived at Vourla. A present
of two sheep, with some poultry and vegetables, arrived from the Pasha
at the Upper Castles, for the ambassador; which looked as if the knowing
ones on shore, expected we should keep our present berth for some time.
[Sidenote: FEAST OF THE BAIRAM.] _Tuesday, April 30th._--At daylight
this morning, we were all attracted on deck by the loud report of
cannon, which came booming down the Hellespont, announcing the
commencement of the Bairam, or grand religious festival of the Turks,
when they play the same "antics before high Heaven," which Catholics do
at their carnival. The guns were shotted, and we could distinctly see
the splash of the marble balls as they dropped into the water. To-day
the Sultan visits one of the principal mosques in state; and, though
latterly the pageant has lost much of the oriental splendour that once
distinguished it, yet, from the number of fine horses, and the richness
of their caparisons, which are covered with gold, diamonds, and precious
stones; and the splendid dresses of the officers of state and their
attendants, this procession has still an air of great magnificence. In
the evening, strings of variegated lamps, with festoons of flowers,
swing from minaret to minaret, and hang over the illuminated city like a
faery crown. From the prevalence of an unlucky northern wind this
morning, we were prevented from reaching Constantinople in time to
witness these festivities. [Sidenote: SESTOS.--TURKISH COLONEL.] The
breeze, however, suddenly veering round to the south, swiftly went round
the capstan, and merrily did our band, the solitary fiddler, rosin away
to the tune of "drops of brandy," while, with every stretch of canvass
set, we joyfully proceeded in our course, saluting the Pasha, according
to custom, as we came abreast of the village of the Dardanelles, which
occupies a low situation, and its mean-looking houses are huddled
together in a very unpicturesque manner. The celebrated castles look
formidable enough, with their enormous guns lying upon the ground
without carriages, and sweeping the surface of the waves from shore to
shore. The entire population was assembled upon the wharfs, or on the
tops of the houses, and the flags of the consuls were displayed; so
that, altogether, we saw the town to the best advantage. They returned
our salute, and, immediately after, a mech-men-dar, or colonel,
appointed by the Sultan to accompany the ambassador to Constantinople,
came on board with his pipe-bearer. He wore a splendid dress, and was a
remarkably well made man, of a dark copper colour, probably a Nubian by
birth. The village on the European side of the Dardanelles is not so
large as that on the shore opposite; but, being built on a declivity,
and having gardens and cypress trees intermingled with the houses, it is
far more beautiful. Sestos, the European fort, is also very strong
seaward, but is commanded by a hill that rises behind it. Were the guns
well served, the vessel that should attempt to force a passage between
these two castles could only escape being sunk by a miracle.
[Sidenote: BEAUTIFUL SCENE.] As we glided onwards to our destination,
the scene became exceedingly animated: the sea was covered with
innumerable vessels having all their canvass spread; some were following
in our wake towards Constantinople even with skysails, but the superior
sailing of the Actaeon gradually left them far astern. As we passed
Gallipoli, two Russian men-of-war were lying off the town, which is of
considerable size; and in the Bay of Lampsacus, on the opposite coast,
were also several Turkish ships. The landscape on the European side of
the Sea of Marmora, in which we now were, is composed of gently sloping
hills, well cultivated, while on that of Asia, it is bolder and more
rugged.
There was now every probability of our arriving at Constantinople
to-morrow, and we enjoyed the satisfaction of sailing past the Smyrna
packet, which, having hauled too close in shore, lost the wind and lay
there quite becalmed.
[Sidenote: THE SEVEN TOWERS.] _Wednesday, May 1st._--Off Cape St.
Stefano at day break. Three Turkish frigates lying at anchor there,
fired the usual salute in honour of the festival of the Bairam, which is
repeated at sunrise and sunset from all the men-of-war and batteries
during the three days of its continuance. The guns of the fort were
shotted, like those of the Dardanelles. As the darkness gave place to
light, Stamboul disclosed itself to our anxious gaze, and we arrived
opposite the Seven Towers, just as the sun cast its morning tints over
the gilded cupolas and tall graceful minarets of this "Queen of Cities."
Long, long ago, my anxious hope was to behold, some day or other, the
spot I was now approaching; at that time with little chance of its ever
being accomplished, but now fulfilled to my perfect satisfaction. The
Seven Towers, and the city walls, which are in many places thickly
covered with ivy, appear to be in a very ruinous condition. These latter
are trebled on the land-side, having a ditch between each. From the
numerous fragments of marble and granite columns, many of them bearing
inscriptions, every where intermingled with the masonry, it is evident
that the fortifications of Constantinople were built of the remnants of
the ancient capital. This is peculiarly visible in the neighbourhood of
the seraglio, where Irene's palace is supposed to have formerly stood.
Facing the water is that portion of the suburbs inhabited by the
Armenians, but presenting no attractions to the stranger, being
exceedingly crowded and dirty; and along the shore are the stations for
washing, slaughtering cattle, and throwing into the sea the filth
collected by the scavengers.
[Sidenote: THE PASHA'S GATE.] If these objects were calculated to excite
feelings of disgust, the scene which next presented itself was beautiful
as fairy land. The ship sailed close under the lofty wall of the
seraglio garden, which is separated from the sea by only a narrow wharf.
Shady groves, bowers of oranges, roses and jasmine, lofty cypresses, and
wide spreading plane trees, embosom the elegant pagoda-shaped buildings,
which comprise the kiosks of the Sultan, and the women's apartments; all
of which, together with the stables and other inferior offices, are
richly gilt and painted of various gaudy colours. Near one of the
seraglio gates is erected a large wooden house, where many a disobedient
Pasha has awaited the decree of banishment issued against him by his
imperious master. There, too, he was shipped on board the vessel
destined to carry him into exile; or, if condemned to expiate his
offences with his life, it was there the bowstring was applied. Hence
this entrance is known by the appellation of the Pasha's gate. A little
further on, we observed a small low door in the wall, scarcely high
enough to admit an ordinary sized man. Through this opening the slaves
newly purchased, for either the Sultan or Sultana, are conveyed into the
palace; through it also, they make their exit, when barbarous jealousy
or revenge prompts their destruction; and many a lovely Dudu or Lolah,
and many a fair Sultana sewn in the cruel sack, have been borne through
this fatal opening, and cast into the
"Rolling waves, which hide
Already many a once love-beaten breast,
Deep in the caverns of the deadly tide."
[Sidenote: BEAUTIES OF STAMBOUL.] We now sailed round the promontory of
the Golden Horn, when all the beauties of Stamboul, Pera, the Bosphorus,
and Scutari, burst suddenly upon the view. Looking towards the seraglio
point is seen the richly gilded palace of the Sultan, with a gate that
glitters as if formed of polished gold; and backed by a profusion of
foliage, and the buildings of the Serai. Farther distant is St. Sophia
and the other mosques, whose golden domes and graceful, tapering
minarets, tower above the mass of painted buildings interspersed with
dark cypresses and beautiful plane trees, which covers the surface of
the "seven hills." Thousands of roses hang clustering on the trellis
work which adorns the gardens of the numerous villages, summer palaces,
and villas occupying the shores of the Bosphorus, and the harbour
between Constantinople and Galata appears crowded with ships, and with
numberless caiques, gliding rapidly from shore to shore. [Sidenote:
PERA.--SCUTARI.] Lastly, Pera, with its vast range of cypresses, crowns
the hill, and extends along the whole length of the town. Looking in
another direction, appears the burying ground of Scutari, also with its
cypress grove, many miles in extent; the mosque, and barracks of Sultan
Selim; Leander's tower in the channel which we have just quitted; and,
lastly, the Turkish fleet of many sail lying at anchor, and displaying
all their colours in honour of the Bairam.
Meanwhile, the Actaeon held on her silent majestic course towards the
destined anchorage; and as I stood upon the quarter deck, contemplating
the magnificent objects that presented themselves wherever I turned my
sight, I felt all those thrilling emotions of rapture and delight which
such scenes are calculated to inspire, and which constitute a sort of
oasis in the memory of those who have experienced them. Here nature and
art have gone hand in hand, assisting each other, and scattering roses;
here every thing that falls from the bosom of the former is rich and
luxuriant, and every thing that proceeds from the latter is novel,
extraordinary, in a word, it is _oriental_; and faults, which in more
civilised communities would be considered inconsistent with good taste,
are here ever pleasing, and seem necessary to the unity of the whole.
[Sidenote: TURKISH FLEET.] A royal salute was fired as we passed the
summer palace of Dolma Bashi, where the Sultan at present resides. It
was immediately returned by the Mahmoudie, the Capitan Pasha's ship.
What splendid vessels! Among them two are three-deckers, the largest
ships in the world, one carrying 140, the other 136 brass guns, and the
whole armament appeared to be in a condition that would not discredit an
English dockyard. Considering how short a period has intervened since
the Sultan lost his entire fleet, it is really miraculous to see him
with another, amounting to two three-deckers, four line of battle ships,
eight frigates, three corvettes, three sloops, and a number of cutters,
all completely equipped for active service. The recently erected palace
of the Sultan on the Asiatic side of the channel, next came in sight. It
consists of a long range of magnificent buildings, painted a rich
colour, between fawn and yellow, picked out with white, and profusely
ornamented with gilding. The interior, I am told, displays a singular
mixture of European and oriental luxury. Parisian furniture, mirrors,
and ornaments from Germany, Persian carpets, and hangings, in short
every thing rare or beautiful, from the east and west being collected
there. [Sidenote: CASTLE OF THE JANISSARIES.] We now passed the old
castle of the janissaries, the first fortress the Turks possessed in
Europe. It lies opposite to the beautiful valley of the sweet waters of
Asia, where the Sultan has a kiosk: and hither, in summer, the Turkish
ladies come on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Fridays, to _pic-nic_. Formerly,
when a janissary was condemned to die, he was confined in this castle.
At the appointed hour, he was led through a small arched doorway, which
opens on the Bosphorus, and there decapitated, and the body was thrown
into the sea; at the same instant the firing of a long gun, which stands
by the side of the gate, announced the execution of his sentence.
[Illustration: Drawn G. C. from a Sketch by the Author.
The Russian encampment on the Giant's Mountain from the English Palace
Garden.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
As I before observed, every portion of the European and Asiatic coast is
covered with villas and gardens. The houses are painted of various
colours, and have verandas, with trellis work, covered with roses,
running round them. Those situated near the water are built with an
arched entrance for the caiques, through which, by means of a short
canal, they glide into the centre of the court-yard. The water here is
very deep, and we were sailing so close to the shore, that the mainyard
scarcely cleared the houses. Indeed, instances have occurred, where
the inhabitants have been surprised by the visit of a bowsprit pushing
its way through the wood-work, and carrying off the roof of their
dwellings.
[Sidenote: RUSSIAN CAMP.] We now came in sight of the Russian
encampment, and the tents which covered the summit of an extensive range
of hills, called the Unkiar Skelessi, or Giant's Mountain[7], resembled
so many snowy pinnacles. Their fleet, consisting of ten ships of the
line, a number of frigates, and small craft, lay on the opposite side of
the channel.
Beyond the village of Jani Keni, and opposite the Sultan's valley, we
also found the Russian head quarters established, and a Russian frigate
occupying the berth in which the Actaeon had anchored twice before. We
therefore passed on, and dropped anchor a little a-head of a French
frigate, opposite Terapia, and close to the Russian camp. The usual
firing immediately commenced, but, by some oversight, the Russian
admiral's salute was returned with two guns less than the usual number.
In about an hour afterwards, he sent his flag lieutenant, who spoke
English, on board the Actaeon, to inquire why we had only fired fifteen
guns when he had paid the compliment of seventeen. The omission was
immediately acknowledged, the two remaining guns discharged, and the
gallant lieutenant rowed off again well satisfied. We soon ascertained
that this sensitiveness proceeded from their anxiety to convince the
Turks that no ill-will existed between England and Russia, and that no
insult was meditated by our ship, more particularly as the British
ambassador to the Porte, was known to be on board. I doubt much,
however, if the Turks, although quite _au fait_ to all matters of
ceremony, understood the firing of the two guns afterwards.
[Sidenote: FRENCH AND ENGLISH EMBASSIES.] The town of Buyukdere, or the
deep valley, off which lies the Russian fleet, is also the residence of
the Russian, Austrian, and German ambassadors; the very hotbed of plots
and etiquette. At Terapia the French and English embassies reside
alongside each other; indications of that perfect unanimity which ought
to subsist between these two great powers; and, if they remain true to
each other, I would confidently back Terapia politics and manoeuvres
against those of Buyukdere. The French palace is a spacious building,
with beautiful and extensive gardens. That inhabited by the English
ambassador, on the contrary, is small, comfortless, and with only a
small slip of ground.
[Sidenote: RUSSIAN MILITARY MUSIC.] This day was occupied in visits from
the secretaries of embassy of the different missions. As the plague was
in Terapia a few days since, that village is put in quarantine with the
palace; which also lies under the same regulations in respect to the
Actaeon: and as the Russian sentinels refused to allow any one to land in
the Sultan's valley, we had nothing to do but to watch their drills and
parade exercises, while listening to the music of the horn bands, which
played on a hill close to our anchorage; and the beauty of these
national airs, somewhat compensated for the rudeness with which they
turned us off the shore. It was very cold in the afternoon; the shifting
of the wind to the north caused a great change in the weather, and
towards evening we were glad to keep below.
_Thursday, 2d._ It is a most lovely morning: all nature seems to rejoice
in the freshening breeze, which, blowing from the Black Sea, tempers
even the hottest days with its refreshing coolness, and extracts the
sweets from millions of roses, which ever bloom on the shores of the
Bosphorus. From the jasmine or orange flower, it floats with its odorous
burthen along the current, and lays all its perfume at the foot of
Stamboul.
[Sidenote: THE CAIQUE.] A party of us embarked in a sort of light boat
called a caique, than which no species of vessel, save the gondola, cuts
more softly and noiselessly through the waters. It is a narrow wooden
canoe, with a long beak; the outside is painted black, with a strip of
bright red inside the stern piece; and is ornamented with carvings of
flowers, and a thousand other devices. A Persian carpet, or a piece of
oil cloth, covers the part on which the foot steps in entering, and here
the slippers are left or retained, as the owner pleases. Those who ride
in them do not sit on benches, but in the bottom of the caique, on a
Persian carpet. The interior is white as snow, and there is an
ornamented back board which runs across, and separates the stepping
place from that appropriated to the purpose of a seat. It has no keel,
and the paddles are long, and broad at the end. Some caiques are rowed
by one, others by two boatmen, with two oars or sculls each; but the
most elegant of these vessels have three rowers. The _employes_ of high
station about the Porte, and the ministers of the different foreign
courts, keep superb caiques, rowed by eight, ten, or even twelve men;
but although these boats are very striking in their appearance, they
want that air of comfort and neatness which distinguish the smaller
caiques.
[Sidenote: TURKISH BOATMEN.] The rowers are either Greeks or Turks, and
wear a fez just large enough to cover the crown of the head, which is
close shaved. The remainder of their dress consists of a thin
transparent shirt, with large sleeves reaching to the elbows; and cotton
drawers fastened to the knees; both as white as snow. They are a fine
robust race of men, and their muscular sun-burnt forms are displayed to
advantage through the gauze which so slightly covers them. At each
stroke they utter a grunt, by forcing the breath suddenly from the
chest; to acquire this accomplishment, is considered a necessary part of
the boatman's education, and his character depends much upon it.
When we arrived at the landing-place of Tophana, a Turk, splendidly
habited, pulled the caique close up with a long pole, and assisted us
out; for which service he was rewarded with a few paras.[8]
A fountain of singular beauty is here erected in the centre of the fish
and vegetable market, which, from its vicinity to the arsenal, and from
its being the landing-place for all pleasure boats coming from Scutari
and the neighbouring villages of the Bosphorus, is constantly occupied
by a crowd of idlers.
In the street leading up to Pera, the throng, which was also
considerable, presented an infinite variety of novel and picturesque
costume. The pavement is bad, but very clean, and greatly exceeds in
this respect the narrow streets of the generality of Italian or Scotch
towns. There is no cry of "heads below;" and a man may wander about at
night without any fear of other rain than that of heaven, provided he
carries a light with him.
[Sidenote: PERA.--DESTRUCTIVE FIRE.] Pera is recovering but slowly from
the destructive fire, which two years ago ravaged this quarter of
Constantinople; for, owing to the unsettled condition of public affairs,
and the uncertainty as to who may be the future masters of this capital,
the rich are unwilling to embark their property in building speculations
on any very extensive scale. However, three handsome streets have been
finished, the houses of which appear better and more commodiously built
than they were formerly. Having secured apartments in a very comfortable
lodging-house, kept by one Guiseppino Vitali, we paid a visit to Mr.
Cartwright, the consul-general, perhaps one of the most excellent and
kind-hearted individuals ever invested with the consular authority.
Since the fire, he has built a very comfortable house, where he
exercises a generous and unbounded hospitality.
[Sidenote: HOSPITALITY OF THE BRITISH CONSUL.] From Messrs. Black and
Hardy, our bankers in Galata, we also experienced the most friendly
attentions. We thence proceeded to Mr. Stampa's, that emporium of all
good condiments, where Adrianople tongues, Yorkshire bacon, Scotch
whisky, French cogniac, Scotch ale, London porter, English cheese, and
Havannah segars may be obtained for "a consideration." In fact, no shop
can be supplied with a greater variety of articles, nor in any city upon
the surface of the globe are luxuries, whether foreign or domestic, to
be obtained more plentifully than in Stamboul. Returning to Guiseppino,
we dined at the Europa, a good inn--at least, we had a good dinner; and
as evening advanced, proceeded to Tophana, and after a two hours' pull
up the Bosphorus, we arrived at the ship. The current runs so strong,
that the boats are obliged to keep in close to the shore, and at three
points are towed by old men and boys, who are stationed there for the
purpose, and receive a few paras for their labour.
_Friday, 3d._--To-day it poured with rain without cessation, and in
consequence, the ambassador could not go on shore. In the evening I
went to the palace for a few minutes, but it felt so cold and
comfortless that I had no wish to remain. This is by no means a fit
residence for our ambassador. I returned to the ship loaded with
newspapers, the appearance of which on the gun-room table was hailed
with satisfaction, nearly a month having elapsed since any one on board
had heard of the state of home and Europe.
[Sidenote: RUSSIAN MILITARY FUNERAL.] _Saturday, 4th._--This morning a
Russian soldier was buried, and we observed the ceremony from the
quarter deck. He was borne in an open wooden coffin; a priest in black,
and with a long beard, headed the procession, and a company of soldiers
brought up the rear. On arriving at the grave, the priest put on an
additional garment, having a yellow cross upon it, and then read the
service, sprinkling the body at intervals with holy water (as we
supposed), for the distance was too considerable to enable us to see
distinctly. After each person present had repeated this portion of the
ceremony as he walked round the corpse, the priest resumed his duties,
scattering more water upon the body, and the lid being put on the
coffin, a blessing was pronounced while it was lowered into the grave,
and with the casting in of the earth, the ceremony ended. The soldiers
then filed up the hill; while the priest, disencumbering himself of his
robes, proceeded to saunter about the shore.
[Sidenote: LANDING OF THE AMBASSADOR.] At two o'clock the ambassador
landed in state: the yards were manned, and the salute fired. Soon
after, the rest of the suite followed; and the Actaeon was now left to
quiet and regular duty. The cabins fitted up for the party were cleared
away in the course of an hour; and before the dinner drum beat, the main
deck had been again restored to its just proportions. In the evening, my
companion and self also left the ship, and went down to Pera, to
establish ourselves for the present in the house of Master Tongo; a name
by which I find our landlord is better known than by that of Vitali.
_Sunday, 5th._--On looking out of window into the street this morning, I
beheld crowds of Armenian and Greek women proceeding to church, the
former wearing the gashmak, or veil, and their long dark feridges, or
cloaks, with red morocco slippers just peeping out beneath. They differ
from the Turkish women only in not covering the nose, and having red
instead of yellow slippers, in which they shuffle along slowly to their
worship. Of the Greeks, however, some wore over their hair embroidered
handkerchiefs, arranged _a la Francaise_ in the shape of a toque; others
were muffled in cloaks of a snuff-brown colour, with a white muslin veil
arranged upon the back of the head, and having both ends brought round
upon the breast: thus exposing the whole face, and setting off to the
best advantage the handsome regular features, and the dark eye, with its
long black silky lash.
[Sidenote: VISIT TO THE BAZAARS.] After breakfast, a party was made to
visit the bazaars; and we embarked at the new custom-house stairs, in
Galata, where numbers of caiques lie ready for hire, and where the same
scramble occurs for passengers as at Blackfriars or Tower Stairs in
England. We glided rapidly across, skilfully avoiding the numerous
caiques that were plying in a contrary direction, the boatman calling
out, "On the European side,"--"On the Asiatic side," as it suited his
purpose to pass to the right or left, there appearing to be no
established law for regulating their motions.
On landing at the Balouk[9], or fish bazaar, we passed through the
bazaar of drugs, called also that of Alexandria, an extensive covered
building, where rhubarb, paints, senna, and other commodities of that
sort, are sold in stalls fitted up on both sides of the passage. The
articles are all exposed in the most tempting manner, according to the
fancy of the vendor, who sits cross-legged on the shop-board behind,
waiting anxiously for his customer; and when any one stops but for an
instant, he pops out his head like a spider, to ascertain whether it is
a bite or not. We passed through the pipe-stick bazaar, situated in an
open street: on one side of which, pipe-sticks and amber mouth-pieces
are exposed to sale; the other being almost entirely occupied by
turners, who work with extraordinary neatness, considering the imperfect
nature of their tools. From the bazaar where cotton handkerchiefs and
shawls, English and German, are sold, we passed to the shop of Mustapha,
the scent dealer, where we established ourselves for a luncheon,
consisting of pipes, coffee, and lemonade, while the various bottles of
perfume,--viz. attar of roses and jasmine, musk, musk rat-tails, lemon
essence, sandal wood, pastilles, dyes, all the sweet odours that form
part and parcel of a sultana's toilet, were temptingly exposed to our
view. From time to time, portions of these delicacies were rubbed on our
whiskers, hands, and lips, to induce us to purchase; so that when we
left the shop to return to Pera, we were a walking bouquet of
_millefleurs_, and might have been scented a mile off. After visiting
the dockyard, where a line of battle ship and two frigates were getting
ready for sea, we climbed the hill of Pera, under the shade of the dark
and splendid cypress trees covering the burial ground, and from which
long avenues lead to various parts of the town. [Sidenote: PUBLIC
PROMENADES.] These are the favourite walks of the Perotes; and the gay
dresses of the ladies, who, in joyous parties, ramble along the silent
and gloomy pathways, contrast oddly with the sad and mournful character
of this place of tombs. We again strolled about in this ground after
dinner; but were soon tired, the cold being too severe to be pleasant;
and even the inhabitants retire early. The evenings at Pera are not
agreeable, there being no public amusements into which one can enter;
and society is so garbled with form and etiquette, that it is hardly
worth seeking; smoking, therefore, is the only resource, and most people
adopt it.
[Sidenote: PIPE-STICK BAZAAR.] _Monday, 6th._--This morning we landed at
the Lemon Skalese, where the fruit bazaar stands. Here were shops full
of Smyrna figs, dried dates, plums, and various other fruits; with
cheese, and Russian butter. We went thence through the place where wax
candles are sold, to the pipe-stick bazaar, where I intended to be a
purchaser both of amber and cherry sticks. Of the former there are two
sorts: the white, creamy, or lemon-coloured amber is the most valuable;
and a large mouth-piece of the very purest is sometimes worth 5000 or
6000 piastres, equal to about 50_l._ or 60_l._ sterling. The second or
yellow kind, being more common, is comparatively little esteemed, for
the perfection of this article consists in its being free from flaws,
cracks, or spots; and if the tube of wood can be seen through the amber,
it is considered as very inferior in a Turk's estimation. There is a
third sort, which is valueless from its transparency. It is either real
or factitious, and often consists merely of the scrapings and refuse
morsels, melted into lumps, and manufactured into cheap mouth-pieces.
This portion of the Turkish pipe is frequently adorned with precious
stones, enamelling, or carved wood, according to the fancy of the
purchaser. The cost of those generally exposed for sale varies from 20
to 1500 piastres, and when one of a higher price is required, it is
found in the possession of some wealthy Turkish or Armenian merchant.
The amber is imported from Dantzic in lumps; there is considerable risk
in the purchase of the crude article, and hence arises its excessive
dearness when it turns out well. The cherry sticks come from Persia by
Trebisond; they are brought to Constantinople in pieces of about two
feet long; and after being set straight, are dressed and polished with
infinite care. They are united into sticks generally of five or six
feet, though some are as long as twelve feet, and the junction is so
skilfully concealed with the bark, that in a well-made pipe it is
impossible to discover it. When repolished, they are ready for sale,
being left unbored until the merchant has found a purchaser. From 30 to
100 piastres is the usual price demanded, but it differs according to
the length, size, and fineness of the bark; and dark-coloured sticks are
preferred to those which are lighter. Pipe-sticks are also made of
rose-tree and other woods; but the favourite summer pipe is of jasmine,
which is not so dear as the cherry, and is very light and flexible. I
have seen them of one entire piece, measuring ten feet. These are
cleaned by squeezing lemon juice through them, which is also rubbed over
the outside to render them cool. Another species of pipe is the narghile
or water pipe; our sailors have christened it the hubble-bubble: it is a
species of hookah, consisting of a glass bowl partly filled with water,
a pipe holder fitted into its taper neck, and a long flexible tube, made
of embossed leather and brass wire, through which the smoke is drawn.
The bowls are manufactured of clay in various forms; some being very
plain, others really elegant, with abundance of gilding and ornament.
[Sidenote: TURKISH TOBACCO.] The tobacco smoked in the ordinary pipe, is
brought from the Crimea, Salonica, Latakia, Ormus, and other parts of
the East. The Salonica tobacco is mild and excellent; that from Latakia,
on the contrary, is strong and dark coloured. The price varies between
four and ten piastres the oke, of two pounds and three quarters English;
it is also sold in bales of ten okes each, at the same rate. The tobacco
smoked in the narghile is of a different quality and cut: the best comes
from Shiraz, and it is damped previously to being put into the clay
bowl. The mode of using the narghile is not only difficult to acquire,
but, to a beginner, is painful and sickening; the air being exhaled from
the lungs, and replaced by the smoke and breath. Every Turk, and indeed
every inhabitant of Stamboul, carries about his person a square bag,
either of cachemire ornamented with embroidery, or of common silk, in
which he keeps a supply of tobacco; and as the coffee-house supplies him
with a pipe-stick and pipe gratis, he pays only for the cup of coffee
which accompanies it. He loads his pipe from his own bag, and the boy
of the establishment places a small bit of lighted charcoal on it. They
may be seen by hundreds before every coffee-shop, seated on low stools,
blowing clouds, sipping Mocha juice, and exhibiting the most solemn
taciturnity and perfect content. In driving bargains, the Turk, having
seated the purchaser at his side, presents him with coffee and a pipe,
and between the puffs of smoke the negotiation is carried on. If it does
not succeed, the pipe is resigned, thanks are returned for the coffee,
and the business is at an end; should they agree, another pipe generally
concludes the affair.
[Sidenote: THE SHOE BAZAAR.] We next went through the shoe bazaar, where
are arranged thousands of pairs of slippers and boots, some of yellow,
others of red morocco, and of all sizes. But the most superb exhibition
consists of the embroidered slippers for the use of the women within
doors; these are made of velvet, silk, or cloth, covered with gold and
silk embroidery, pearls, &c. Here also are sold mirrors of different
shapes, with the backs likewise embroidered in various colours and
devices, intended for the fair inhabitants of the harem. [Sidenote:
JEWELLERY.--BROUSSA SILKS.] Though this bazaar, from its novelty, is
generally acknowledged to be the most attractive, it does not offer such
splendid temptations as that devoted to the sale of jewellery, which we
now entered, and which consists of a series of low, narrow arched
passages, opening into each other, and very badly paved. The shops or
stalls, instead of the usual inner apartment, have only high counters,
behind which sits the Armenian jeweller. Before him is placed a square
glass case, in which are huddled together, in precious confusion, silver
filagree coffee-cup holders, chased gold and silver boxes for talismans,
silver heads for narghile, female ornaments, pastile burners, old
snuff-boxes, rings, cornelian ointment boxes, gems, and agate-hilted
dirks. The more valuable articles are probably kept in drawers under the
counter, or in the strong room of some fire-proof khan or warehouse.
Thence I went into the Broussa silk bazaar, a square building divided
into compartments, in which are piled up pieces of the silk of a
thousand different patterns. The produce of the Broussa manufacture is a
mixture of cotton and silk, with which gold and silver thread is
frequently intermingled; the pattern is exceedingly splendid, and it is
used for the gowns and jackets of both men and women. There is also a
stuff made in Constantinople of similar materials, which, though all of
one colour, is exceedingly handsome, and well adapted for dresses. The
bazaars closing at two o'clock, we returned to Pera highly gratified
with the day's excursion.
[Sidenote: RESIDENCE OF THE BRITISH EMBASSY.] _Tuesday, 7th._--Went up
this morning to Terapia to pay a visit at the palace, and learned that
Count Orloff had arrived from Odessa as ambassador extraordinary and
commander-in-chief of the Russian force, with a _carte blanche_ from his
sovereign as to the treaties and measures he might think fit to adopt. I
went over the palace, which is but just large enough to accommodate the
family of our ambassador, and the _attache_ is obliged to live in a
house higher up the hill, but within the walls of the government
property. Returned in the evening to Pera, more than ever captivated
with the beauties of the Bosphorus; though the cold weather still
retards the progress of vegetation, and the leaves are but slowly making
their appearance. Indeed so late a spring, and such inclement weather,
have rarely been experienced at Constantinople before.
[Sidenote: FUNERAL OF A FRANK PHYSICIAN.] _Wednesday, 8th._--The funeral
of the Sultan's French physician passed our lodgings, on its way to the
burying-ground. It was accompanied by about 100 officers and soldiers
without arms; and, this being the first time any Turks had appeared at a
Christian ceremony, a great sensation was excited in Pera. The man
was much esteemed by the Sultan, and was a favourite with all classes,
both Turks and Christians. The following was the order of the funeral.
First came the soldiers, divided into two bodies, one occupying either
side of the street, with the officers in the centre; then followed a
number of Capuchin monks, with priests and servitors of the Greek
church; lastly appeared the body, carried upon a bier, and covered with
a black silk pall, with a yellow cross, its four orange tassels being
held by supporters. A crowd of Franks, Turks, and Armenians, wearing
crape upon their arms, closed the procession. The bearers were
distinguished by large fur caps, decorated with red cloth, resembling
the calpac of the Armenians, and every individual carried in his hand a
long thin wax taper.
_Thursday, 9th._--I again went up to Terapia, where there is a report,
that the pilots of the Sea of Marmora and the Dardanelles have gone on
board the Russian fleet, and that more troops have arrived. The
Russians, however, strongly deny both facts. [Sidenote: AUDIENCE OF THE
SULTAN.] Our ambassador had a private audience of the Sultan this
morning, an express having arrived, somewhat unexpectedly, at the palace
of the British embassy yesterday evening, intimating that the Sultan
would receive Lord Ponsonby at nine o'clock on the following day. It
seems that Count Orloff had peremptorily demanded an audience; but as
our ambassador arrived before him, he was entitled to precedence in this
matter; and Count Orloff's reception was accordingly arranged to take
place one hour afterwards. Lord Ponsonby went with his nephew Captain
Grey, and Mr. Waller, the _attache_. They were received at the palace or
new kiosk at Dolma Batche, on the European side; and as they landed, the
Sultan's band struck up "God save the King." On being ushered into the
presence, they found his Highness seated on his divan, an apartment
splendidly painted and decorated, and after the ambassador had paid and
received the usual compliments, coffee and pipes were introduced. The
Sultan shewed them a portrait, in a wide gilt frame, of himself on
horseback, painted by some Sardinian artist. It was a resemblance, but
indifferently executed. After remaining an hour, they took leave; and
found a Russian steamer, with Count Orloff on board, waiting near the
palace. The Count's audience lasted _two hours_. Many plans were, no
doubt, formed; and every one feels in great anxiety to know the result
of this conference. [Sidenote: NAVAL PUNISHMENTS.] I dined to-day at
the palace. Admiral Roussin, the French ambassador, came in, in the
evening. He is frank and undisguised, as a sailor ought to be; and
entered at once upon the policy intended to be adopted by his
government. He seemed persuaded that Ibrahim would retire behind Mount
Taurus; and expressed himself very doubtful of the good faith of the
Russians.
Slept on board the Actaeon, in the cockpit,--a terribly close berth, and
hot as an oven. Penny, one of the carpenter's crew, who had been ill for
a long time with rheumatic pains, died in the course of the afternoon,
and will be buried to-morrow.
_Friday, 10th._--There being a punishment
this morning, of course I remained in the gun-room.
Two sailors received the cat, and although
the thing is perfectly disgusting, my experience
convinces me it is necessary to the maintenance
of discipline. The captain and first lieutenant
are averse to the practice of flogging; but, if
the first man had been punished for a similar
dereliction of duty, a fortnight since, he very
probably would not have repeated the offence;
and his fate might have served as a warning to
his companion in suffering. In fact, the knowledge
that the captain dislikes to proceed to this
extremity, encourages the unruly to get drunk
and be insolent.
[Sidenote: CRICKET.--TURKISH FLEET]
The Russians exercise their troops daily in
marching, counter-marching, skirmishing, and
firing at a mark. The officers of the Actaeon
have written orders to be admitted into the
camp, and now go on shore every afternoon to
play cricket in the Sultan's Valley, much to the
amusement of both Russian and Turk. The
Russian general recently came on board, and
expressed his surprise that the captain had not
visited the camp, inviting him to do so, and at
the same time leaving these orders for the officers.
Returned to Pera in the evening. The
shore on either side the channel daily acquires
new beauties, as the warm weather advances,
and the trees assume their summer clothing.
As I passed the Turkish fleet at sunset, the
Mahmoudiel fired a gun; and, in an instant,
every topmast was lowered, with as much precision
and celerity as would have been displayed
by an English fleet at Spithead.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by George. Cruikshank, from a Sketch by the
Author.
Sweet Waters
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: CABOBS.--RAPACITY OF THE SULTAN.] _Saturday, 11th._--Went to
a cabob shop. Cabobs are made of small pieces of mutton, about the size
of a small walnut; which being strung on iron or silver skewers, and
roasted over a fire, with plenty of grease, are served up with a
species of soft cake, toasted, and soaked in gravy, or with milk,
water, parsley, and garlic, brought all together in a large bowl. The
Turks eat it with their fingers; we had forks: they were, however, so
dirty, that we quickly abandoned them for the Oriental method. This is a
capital dish, with the single exception of the garlic. A glass of cold
water, and a pipe at the nearest coffee shop, finished our repast, and
we then went to a rich Greek merchant's strong room, to see some amber
mouth-pieces; and he certainly did shew us a splendid collection, valued
at 200,000 piastres. On returning to his shop, when about to pay him a
large sum on account of my purchases, he requested me not to do so
there, but accompany him to a more convenient situation, lest the Turks
should observe that he was receiving money. Both Armenians and Greeks
most anxiously conceal their wealth, as it might subject them to be
pillaged by the Sultan, either directly, or through the extortions of
his tax gatherers.
[Sidenote: NAVAL ARSENAL--CEMETERIES.] _Sunday, 12th._--This afternoon I
visited the Valley of Sweet Waters; an appellation conferred on it by
the Franks, instead of its proper name, Keathane, or "paper
manufactory." Greeks, Armenians, and Turks make parties on Sundays and
holidays to this retired and beautiful promenade, where they dine and
pic-nic. In proceeding thither, our caique passed the Arsenal, and we
saw one line-of-battle ship afloat, and nearly ready to join the fleet,
another on the stocks, and two frigates in a forward state. The American
builder, at present at the head of the dockyard, has built a range of
very neat workshops and stores; and great activity characterises the
whole department. In passing up, I saw the remains of the old palace of
Theodorus, on one side of which is the Jewish cemetery, extending an
immense distance, but without a single tree; and the grey head-stones,
thickly strewed over the inclosure, look as if they had fallen from
heaven in a shower. A prettily situated village, with its Turkish
burying-ground, is on the opposite side; there cypresses cast their
mournful shade upon the tombs of the departed Mahomedans, and numerous
parties had landed there from their caiques, and were regaling
themselves under the large trees, where any happened to border the
river. On arriving, we found the landing-place thronged with boats, and
the walks crowded by visitors. Sultan Selim erected a palace here, which
he intended should resemble that of Versailles. His ambassador, on
returning from Paris, had brought back some views of that splendid abode
of the [Sidenote: PALACE.--TURKISH HORSES.] French monarchs; and Selim,
struck by its magnificence, determined to build a kiosk in imitation of
it. Accordingly he changed the river into a straight canal; formed
avenues, which were planted with long lines of trees; contrived
waterfalls, and laid out a beautiful park. The trees have grown up to a
magnificent size, and cast a pleasant shade over the walks and water;
but the deserted palace is fast falling to decay, and the park is
frequented only in the spring. Here the Sultan's horses are sent to
graze; and their visit is celebrated with great pomp on St. George's day
(Old Style), when they come in procession, and to each of them is
allotted a place in the park, in which they are picketed after the
fashion usual in the East. The tents pitched near them are occupied by
Bulgarians, whose duty it is to watch the animals night and day; and,
perhaps, a more magnificent collection of fine horses was never seen
feeding together, or in an equally beautiful spot. [Sidenote: AUDIENCE
OF THE SULTAN.] Here were assembled parties of all nations. Crowds of
Turkish women, closely veiled, sat under the trees, listening to the
performances of itinerant musicians and dancers, whose instruments were
fiddles, dulcimers, and tambourines. The singing consists solely in
dwelling a considerable time on a single note, with the mouth wide open,
the head thrown back, and the eyes half shut; then, suddenly changing
to another tone, about half a dozen words are strung together, and a
sort of dialogue, in recitative, is kept up by the performers. In one
direction, a conjurer is seen exhibiting his feats of manual dexterity,
surrounded by a motley gaping crowd;--in another, a story-teller
exercises the risible faculties of the sedate Turk, as well as of the
merry laughter-loving Greek. A string of Armenian women approach,
walking two and two with slow solemn steps, and followed by a slave
carrying a basket of refreshments. Behind these come a party of gaily
dressed Greeks of Pera, laughing and joking, the very personification of
merriment; while their more stately country-woman of the Fanal, moves
majestically along in another direction, with the pride of a thousand
years of ancestry, conspicuous in her air and carriage, and all the
consciousness of perfect classic beauty, in her form and face.
[Sidenote: THE ERRABA.] Nor does she omit to display her delicate foot
with its stocking of snowy white, and neat morocco shoe. Under the
shelter of yonder magnificent plane trees, stands an erraba or Turkish
carriage, in which the Sultan's sister and a large party of female
slaves are seated, eating mahalabe and drinking sherbet, while they
enjoy the busy scene before them. The erraba has no springs, and is
richly ornamented with a profusion of gilding, and covered with
beautiful shawls, crimson silk, or white muslin fringed with silk or
gold, according to the taste and fancy of the owner. The interior is
furnished with cushions, and the entrance is from behind, by a small
ladder: it is drawn by two oxen, guided by a man on foot; and when out
on distant excursions, is generally followed by a boy, carrying
provisions. The heads of the oxen alone are furnished with harness, to
which a string of large bright blue glass beads is added, to protect the
animals from the fascination of the evil eye. From either yoke, a long
curved stick, painted alternately with blue and red, and decorated with
woollen tassels of the same colour, extends backwards over the oxen, as
far as the front of the carriage.
[Sidenote: BEAUTIFUL WOMEN.] The Turkish women, when none of their
countrymen are present, are fond of conversing with a Frank,
particularly if he appears to be a stranger newly arrived, and not a
resident at Pera. They will offer confectionary, mahalabe, and remove
their yashmaks, as several did to-day; but not one of the fair wearers
could vie in personal beauty with some of the Greeks who surrounded
them. Still, however, they were pretty, with fine dark eyes, but the
total absence of the rosy hue of health is unpleasing; and the custom
of staining the lips and blackening the eyelashes, communicates a
ghastly paleness to their features. Yet their skin is excessively
delicate; and many of the small white hands I saw to-day, would create
an envious feeling in more than one lady patroness of Almacks. I
particularly noticed one lady, apparently the wife of some Turk of
distinction, who was seated upon a splendid Persian carpet spread upon
the grass, and surrounded by fourteen young female slaves, whose
beautiful eyes were alone visible, the rest of their faces being closely
covered up. They appeared very fond of music, for they had two bands
singing and playing different airs at the same moment, both parties
contending which could scream the loudest. On returning towards the
landing-place, we met numbers of Greek ladies and gentlemen with guitars
and clarionets coming up to pass the evening in singing and dancing upon
the green turf.
As our caique again glided swiftly down the stream, we passed many
similar vessels, containing seven or eight Turkish women each, and up
went the yashmak at our approach. Boat loads of Perotes, with gay
turbans and toques, were also seen hastening to the festive scene; and,
on arriving at our homes, we found the churchyard empty, and all Pera
silent and tranquil, as if deserted by its inhabitants.
[Sidenote: DANCING DERVISHES.] _Tuesday, 14th._--Visited the mosque at
Pera, to witness the ceremonies of the dancing dervishes. This edifice
is built in the form of an octagon, having a gallery extending round the
interior on six of the sides, under which the public sit. In one of
these galleries hung the cloaks of the dervishes; and in another was
posted the music, consisting of a drum, Turkish flutes, and a dulcimer.
Outside the building on the left of the entrance, but only separated by
a trellis-work, is the women's receptacle. This was crowded, as was also
the part assigned to such as took no share in the ceremonies. The centre
of the mosque is railed off; and the chief priest, who wore a green
dress, with a white hat, partly covered by a green shawl, was seated
opposite the grand entrance on a red cushion, placed upon a carpet
spread upon the floor, which is of chestnut wood, polished to brightness
by the constant friction of the dervishes' feet. From the centre of the
roof, was suspended an octagonal bar of brass, to which lamps of
different sizes were attached, and from the galleries, which are
supported by pillars, hung several square pieces of cloth or
pasteboard, painted black, and inscribed with passages from the Koran.
I left my shoes at the entrance; and on gaining the interior of the
edifice, found the service had commenced. As each dervish entered, he
saluted the chief priest; besides whom, there were five other priests,
seated in various situations close to the railing. One, on the right of
the entrance, held a book, from which he chanted certain verses in a
monotonous voice; while the others sat silent and motionless, with their
eyes fixed on the ground. When he stopped, a slow and solemn air was
played upon the flutes, accompanied by the drum, which had an effect by
no means unpleasing; but in a few moments the other instruments
commenced a species of tune between a waltz and march, and all the
dervishes jumping up, the whole assembly followed each other slowly
round the enclosed space, led by the high priest. On arriving opposite
the seat of their leader, they bowed thrice to the ground, with their
arms crossed upon the breast, and on passing close to it, they stepped
by, with a stride and a whirl, and then resumed their march. After the
third performance of these absurdities, the high priest sat down, and
the music, which had hitherto continued playing the march, presently
struck into an air resembling a sauteuse, accompanied by the chanting
of several voices. The dervishes, having thrown off their cloaks, again
folded their arms across their breasts, and bowing three times,
re-commenced walking before the high priest, bending low as they passed
his seat, and kissing his hands, which were joined together. The
whirling at length began in reality: at first with folded arms, then
with one arm extended, the other slightly bent, and held so as to form
an obtuse angle at the elbow. Thus, with closed eyes and erect body,
these singular people whirled round and round on one leg, making a
_pirouette_ with the other, and proceeding by degrees round every part
of the enclosure, accelerating or retarding their movements as the music
and the chant became more or less animated. By looking at a stop watch,
I ascertained that on an average they turned sixty-four times in a
minute. After spinning round for about five minutes, at a signal from
the high priest, both music and dancers suddenly stopped, but
re-commenced in a few seconds, bowing as before. The third time, they
kept it up for nine minutes and three quarters; my brain was swimming
too, so much so, that I could hardly count their evolutions; and it is
extraordinary their heads should escape being affected in the same
manner. I noticed one little fellow who went round at an amazing pace.
The fourth and last time they whirled for five minutes and three
quarters, thus making in all
5 + 3 + 9-3/4 + 5-3/4 = 23-1/2 x 64 = 1504 turns.
Having been highly amused with this extraordinary exhibition, I was most
anxious to ascertain when and where their brethren, the howling
dervishes, performed their antics; I found, however, that they had been
banished Stamboul and Pera, and now went through their orgies at
Scutari, but in secret, and very seldom.
[Sidenote: GREEK BOOKSELLER.] Thence I went to the shop of a Greek
bookseller in Galata, who has English and Italian as well as French and
modern Greek books for sale, all which pay an _ad valorem_ duty of three
per cent. I did not find any worth buying, except a description of the
manners, customs, and new regulations of Constantinople, up to 1832;
written by an Italian attached to the Sardinian mission, and published
in Genoa. The only Greek books were some wretched translations of French
tales, and of one or two German plays.
_Wednesday, 15th._--This morning we took Mustapha, once the consul's
janissary, and now his servant, as a guide to the curiosities on the
other side of the water. He is by birth a Swiss, who, after having
experienced various vicissitudes and adventures, was taken by pirates,
sold as a slave, turned Mussulman, and is now happy and contented in the
service of so good a master. Few English visitors who have remained any
time in Constantinople during the last fifteen years, have quitted it
without making the acquaintance of our friend Mustapha.
[Sidenote: MOSQUE OF SOLIMANIE.] The first object to which he conducted
us was the mosque of Solimanie, the largest and most elegant in
Stamboul; though it does not possess the same interest or renown as St.
Sophia, nor the beauty and lightness of that of Sultan Achmet. The outer
court is surrounded by fine old plane trees, and we looked into the
inner one, which is surrounded on three sides by cloisters, and several
antique pillars, with a fine ornamented fountain in the centre. On
entering by the principal door, we took off our shoes, which was no
hardship, the whole floor being covered with soft carpeting. The dome is
supported by four enormous pillars of grey granite, polished by age. I
was desirous to have measured them, but the priest or servitor, who
accompanied us, refused permission. From the ceiling of the aisles, and
around the dome, hung innumerable lamps of different sizes; an
octangular frame of iron, suspended under the dome, also supported
[Sidenote: SERASKIER'S TOWER.] an immense quantity about ten feet from
the floor. The aisles were filled with many little recesses, in which
were placed books on stands; and one of them was occupied by a Turkish
priest, who chanted some verses from one of these open volumes. Neither
ornaments nor pictures decorate the interior, all being plain and
simple, except that portion nearest Mecca, where an enormous wax candle
is placed on each side of a little niche in the wall. There is something
extremely impressive in the unadorned simplicity, vast extent, and
sombre aspect of this mosque, which is the only religious edifice in
Constantinople, that can be seen by a Christian without a firman; a
donation to the priest of thirty-five piastres being sufficient to admit
a large party. We now proceeded to the Seraskier's tower, situated in a
large court by the side of the palace of the Seraskier Pasha. In the
upper chamber a party of men are constantly stationed to watch for
fires, and, I believe also, to give notice of any unusual assembling of
the people. On the appearance of a fire, they sound the alarm by beating
gongs, and by despatching messengers to various parts of the city. From
the windows of this apartment, is a most perfect bird's eye view of the
whole capital and its vicinity. In the whole course of my travels, I
can recall but one prospect, whose exquisite loveliness affords a
similar combination of all the ingredients necessary to a perfect
landscape, and which I, in some degree, prefer, as presenting even a
still greater variety of beautiful objects,--I mean the view of Naples
from the hermitage on Vesuvius.
[Illustration: Etched by G. C. from a Sketch by the Author
The Burnt Pillar.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: BURNT PILLAR.] A short walk brought us to the Tchernberle
Tasch, or burnt pillar, built of red porphyry, which has been cracked
and splintered by the numerous fires that have taken place around it;
and, to prevent its falling to pieces, it has been enclosed within a
sort of iron cage. It is ninety feet in height, and thirty in
circumference at the base. Of the inscription, only a few letters can at
present be made out. It originally ran thus:--
[Greek: To theion ergon enthade phtharen chrono
kainei manouel eusebes autokrator.]
Passing onwards, we came to a dark dismal place, called the Cistern of
the Thousand and One Pillars, a large reservoir for water, but now dry
and occupied by the winders of silk thread. Its extent is very great,
and the number of pillars far exceeds that above-mentioned. There is
also another cistern, but as the entrance is through a Turk's dwelling,
it cannot be visited except as a special favour, not always granted.
[Sidenote: HIPPODROME.] From this, we were led to the Atmeidan, or
place of horses, the ancient hippodrome; a large oblong area, on one
side of which is the beautiful mosque of Sultan Achmet, separated from
the open square by a handsome screen of masonry; over which a number of
plane trees hang their luxuriant foliage, and through its windows we
were gratified with a view of the court of the mosque. The Atmeidan is
famous as being the scene of countless insurrections and tumults; it was
the rendezvous of the turbulent janissaries; here they made their last
noble stand, and were hewn to pieces and swept down by the Sultan's
cannon and cavalry. Here too were held games and reviews, and here
stands the obelisk of Theodosius, the brazen serpents from Delphi, and
the lofty monument of Constantine, built of rough masonry, and supposed
to have been once covered with brass. It is ninety feet in height. The
obelisk was brought from Egypt and placed there by Theodosius, as
appears from the following inscription on the pedestal, which is now
covered up with earth, and the Turks will not allow of its being cleared
away.
Difficilis quondam Dominis parere serenis
Jussus, et extinctis palmam portare tyrannis:
Omnia Theodosio cedunt sobolique perenni;
Terenis sic victus ego, duobusque diebus,
Judice sub Proclo, superas elatus ad auras.
It measures sixty feet in height, and each of its faces is covered with
hieroglyphics. On the pedestal is a badly executed _alto relievo_,
intended to represent the victories of Theodosius. Between these two
monuments is the celebrated tripod from the island of Delphos; the heads
of the serpents of which it is composed are lost: one of them was cut
off by Sultan Mechmed with a single blow of his sword. From the number
of people that gathered about me, I had some difficulty in making a
drawing of these objects; and the soldiers from a neighbouring
guard-house really appeared to consider I was forming a plan to pocket
the columns and run away with them. Had not Mustapha been with me, it is
probable I should have been arrested, as a friend of mine was yesterday,
when he attempted to sketch Constantinople from Tophana. A superior
officer, however, soon ordered him to be released, and gave him two
soldiers as a protection whilst he finished his drawing. [Sidenote: ST.
SOPHIA.] Thence our course lay to St. Sophia, which is a confused heap
of unsightly buildings; the centre having enormous buttresses built
against it, and the dome is much too low in proportion to the great size
of this edifice. The principal entrance to the seraglio is also situated
in the square, of which St. Sophia occupies one side, the walls of the
palace another, and a row of small houses and coffee shops a third. In
the centre is a very beautiful fountain; which, though inferior in size
to that of Tophana, is much more richly ornamented.
[Sidenote: SERAGLIO.] The guard having allowed us to pass the gate, we
entered the first court of the seraglio--a large oblong enclosure,
formed by the Sultan's gardens, the inner gate, the grounds of the
serai, barracks, stables, and a portion of the outer wall. Within a
niche on the left-hand side of this entrance, the heads of rebellious
Pashas and other traitors are exhibited to the gazing multitude, and
among the more recent of those placed there, may be mentioned that of
Ali Pasha. The second gate, which is flanked by double towers, resembles
that of an ancient Gothic abbey; the interior is highly ornamented with
gilding and inscriptions in letters of gold; and a large gilt cipher of
the Sultan decorates the front. Our attempt to pass into the second
court was less successful: Mustapha being a great coward, he was afraid
to offer the sentinels a bribe; yet I have no doubt that the sight of a
gold dollar never fails to gain admission for the unbeliever, whether
Jew or Christian. Turning away from this forbidden paradise, we
proceeded to examine a fine old plane tree, in the trunk of which three
people live and keep a coffee-shop. A grove of plane, oak, chestnut, and
cypress trees, conducted us out by the lower gate, and we walked to the
sultanas' mosque, where the bodies of the late Sultan, and of the wives
of his two predecessors, lie in state. The present Grand Signior's
favourite sultana, and her son, also repose upon the same bier.
[Sidenote: TURKISH FUNEREAL POMP.] On looking through the window, we
distinguished the Sultan's coffin, deposited on a kind of throne, with
four large wax tapers burning around it, and covered with the most
splendid Cashmere shawls. All the other coffins were decorated in a
similar manner: those of the women being distinguished by having no
turban at the head; and the Fez, or Greek cap, with a feather and
diamond _aigrette_, lay on that of the Sultan's son. The court of the
Sultana Valide's mosque conducted us to the water-side; and, embarking
at the steps of the Balouk bazar, we glided swiftly across to Galata,
highly delighted with the novelty of the objects witnessed during our
day's excursion.
[Sidenote: COSTUME.] _Thursday, 16th._--The clothes' bazar attracted our
curiosity to-day, where, in a few minutes, a person may be rigged out,
either _a la Turque_, or as an Armenian, the whole dress costing about
270 piastres. A cloth cloak, a silk gown, a silk jacket, camlet
trowsers, yellow or red morocco boots, a shawl for the waist, with a
waistcoat, shirt, and a calpac or turban, form the dress of a gentleman
or merchant. The Jews wear a low black hat, round which is twisted a
white handkerchief, inscribed with some Hebrew sentences from their law.
The calpac of the Greek differs from that of the Armenian, by having a
hole at the top, out of which peeps a bit of red cloth. The Turks wear
yellow, Greeks and Armenians red, and Jews black, boots. The day was
finished at Mustapha's, the scent dealer; or, to describe him by his
real appellation, "Kortz Sultanee Amel Mehemet Said," as his card duly
setteth forth. There we generally took a luncheon of beed caimac, a
species of curd; or of mahalabe, a mixture of rice boiled to a jelly,
and eaten with ice and cream; at other times we discussed a large dish
of cabobs and a few glasses of lemonade. Occasionally our party
adjourned to the coffee-house built in his garden, where, under the
shelter of a delicious rose and jasmine bower, we spent the interval
between dinner in all the luxury of idleness, smoking and drinking
sherbet.
[Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] _Friday, 17th._--I visited a printing-office in
Galata, and saw the types of a work on the Greek church, some specimens
of music, and a few Turkish books. The types were cast in Paris, and
brought here at a great expense. The proprietors are now preparing a
Hebrew work for the press, which will take them two years to execute.
Went again in the afternoon to the Valley of Sweet Waters, where a
greater crowd had assembled than even on the former occasion. I walked
to the village, where there is a coffee-shop in a very agreeable
situation, overshadowed by plane trees, one of which is nearly as large
as that of the seraglio, and also quite hollow. In one part of the
canal, near the palace, where the water is very deep, the favourite
sultana of Selim drowned herself. She was young and exceedingly
beautiful, but grew so jealous of the attentions paid by her lord and
master to a Greek slave whom he had recently purchased, that she
determined on committing suicide. Accordingly, having succeeded in
eluding the vigilance of the guards and eunuchs, she one night escaped
from the palace; and having procured a large stone, she carried it to
the edge of the canal, and there fastened it to her person by means of
the Cashmere shawl which she wore round her waist. On her absence being
discovered next morning, the utmost consternation prevailed throughout
the harem; and her slaves and attendants trembled at the fate which
awaited them when the Sultan was informed of his favourite's escape. The
harem, the palace, the gardens, the whole neighbourhood, were instantly
searched, but in vain; no one had seen the sultana, and her absence
remained a mystery. The eunuchs were threatened with death, if she were
not found; and the horror of all was aroused by the suggestion that she
might possibly have eloped with some giaour[10], and several of the
slaves were sent to atone for their neglect with the forfeit of their
lives. In the mean time, the poor Sultan remained inconsolable: all his
former love returned, and the Greek slave was sent as a present to one
of the Pashas. At the expiration of a few days, as the disconsolate
Selim was seated smoking on the borders of the canal, the body became
detached from the stone, and rose to the surface of the water.
Overwhelmed by the heart-rending spectacle, which too well explained the
mystery of his beautiful queen's disappearance, he was with difficulty
prevented by his attendant slaves from throwing himself upon the corpse.
When he retired, it was taken out, and sent into Constantinople to be
buried. Thus ends this little episode in the life of the mighty Selim.
[Sidenote: IBRAHIM PASHA.] _Saturday, 18th._--I went up to Terapia in
the evening, and dined at the palace. Ibrahim's army is passing the
Taurus, and will soon be followed by its chief, who is taking the baths
near Kutahieh. It is perfectly true, that Greek pilots are on board the
Russian men-of-war, and that the Count Orloff has proposed to the Sultan
to man the Turkish fleet with Russian artillery-men; so little
dependence can be placed on their own sailors, should they come to blows
with France or England.
_Sunday, 19th._--This morning I went over to the Sultan's Valley, which
is kept by outposts of Turks and Russians, one of each nation mounting
sentinel together. The Russian has orders to instruct his Turkish
comrade in the manual exercise, and in marching, during the time they
are on duty. The poor Turks do not like it; for, when left to
themselves, they make but lazy guards.
The Captain of the Actaeon considers that he has received a marked
affront from the Russian Commander-in-Chief. In consequence of his
invitation, he went to head-quarters, and sent in his name; but after
being kept standing for twenty minutes in the hall, among orderlies and
common soldiers, he came away in disgust. Next day the General, who was
probably a little alarmed, came on board to make an apology, saying the
whole matter originated in a mistake, and that the attendants were
ignorant of the rank of his English visitor. What! not recognise a
captain in his Britannic Majesty's navy, commanding a frigate which lies
moored within sight of the Russian army, when he visits its General in
full uniform, in his boat, and with his pennant displayed? I think it is
full time that these northern barbarians should be instructed, with the
point of the bayonet, in the respect due to a British officer. However,
it is to be hoped that such insolence will not long remain unpunished.
[Sidenote: RUSSIAN MILITARY PUNISHMENT.] In this beautiful valley there
is a kiosk of the Sultan, at present used as a paper-mill; and near the
landing-place stands a large house once occupied by an Englishman, sent
hither by the Sultan to establish a leather manufactory. It is now the
Russian head-quarters, the valley being their exercising ground. This
morning a Russian soldier was flogged at parade. I was not in time to
witness the punishment, but it was explained to me by one of the
midshipmen. The whole regiment was drawn up in two lines facing each
other, each man having in his hand a small twig or stick. The offender,
stripped of his jacket and shirt, was made to run the gauntlet through
the ranks, every man giving him a sharp cut as he passed, while the
officers and sergeants stood by to see that the blows were sufficiently
severe; and in case of any neglect, the delinquents are punished
themselves. The man roared like a bull, and seemed to suffer immensely.
[Sidenote: SULTAN'S VALLEY.] Under the pleasant shade of some remarkably
fine plane trees growing near to each other, close to the borders of a
stream, thousands of Turkish and Armenian, as well as Greek parties,
formerly came to spend the day during the summer months. This is all
over now: the presence of the Russians prevents a single pic-nic, and
the lovely valley is deserted. Crossing over to the European side, I
walked along the shore towards Buyukdere, and at the point of Kerridge
Bournu enjoyed a fine view of the entrance to the Black Sea, and the old
Venetian castles which rise so romantically on the opposite coast, a
little beyond the Giant's Mountain. The view in the Sultan's Valley is
very grand, and the undulating hills approach each other in a
picturesque manner, forming a wooded vista, terminated in the distance
by the arched aqueduct which carries the water across several deep
valleys from the bents near Belgrade to Constantinople. These bents are
large reservoirs, resembling artificial lakes, bordered by thick woods,
groves, and pasture land, and converting their immediate vicinity into a
beautiful and luxuriant landscape, while all around is barren and
exhausted.
[Sidenote: RUSSIANS AND TURKS.] _Monday, 20th._--I strolled about in the
Sultan's Valley till dinner-time; and on returning again in the evening
to play at cricket with the officers of the Actaeon, I found all the
Russian cavalry horses had been turned out to graze. They are sorry
steeds, supplied for the Cossacks by the Sultan; they seemed, however,
to enjoy this liberty very much. Just before dusk, some Russian soldiers
came down to catch them, and we amused ourselves with observing their
motions. In vain they drove them from one side to the other, and into
all the corners of this extensive pasture-ground; it was of no use, they
would not be caught either by stratagem, or the temptation of corn. An
old white stallion seemed to be the prime devil of the lot; for the
moment the men got near, away he gallopped, kicking and flinging, with
all the others at his heels. The Turkish commmandant of the army
encamped near the Russians now came and sat down, and took a pipe. He
laughed heartily at the discomfiture of his Frankish allies; and when we
asked him how he liked them, (for he understood Italian, though he could
not speak it,) making every sign of contempt, he spat upon the ground,
pronouncing the word Rusky; as much as to say, he spat in their faces,
and called them some very unpolite names in Turkish. But the Inglez--oh!
and then he shook our hands--they were good fellows, he liked them
exceedingly. When our midshipmen visited the Russians, they did not
offer them any refreshment; but on their arrival at the Turkish
encampment they were immediately taken to the officers' tent, and
regaled with ices, coffee, pipes, lemonade, &c.; and it was with
difficulty that they got away from their hospitable entertainers. When
it became dark, there came down a reinforcement of Cossacks, and after a
short chase the horses were caught. [Sidenote: RUSSIAN HORN BANDS.] The
Russian and Turkish bands play every evening for a couple of hours. The
latter also chant hymns at meal-time and at sunset; and the sound of so
many voices, pealing forth these solemn and beautiful airs, and swelling
and modulating as the breeze wafts them over the waves, diffuses over
the mind a sensation of tranquillity which it is difficult for language
to describe.
_Thursday, 23d._--Went to the other side of Pera, to visit a garden
established by a Frenchman for vegetables and the cultivation of the
vine. He makes a delicious wine from the Chious grape, called
Altintash, resembling the white lachryma of Vesuvius, but neither so
strong nor so highly flavoured. He also manufactures an effervescing
liquor, in imitation of champagne, but very inferior to that sparkling
elixir, of which many of the Turks are, in secret, decided worshippers.
[Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] This evening, while sitting under the cypresses
near the walls of Galata, upon the grass-covered tomb of an old Turk,
our guide, Guiseppino, amused us with some Venetian tales, of which the
following is a specimen:--"Many years since, there arrived in Venice a
traveller of commanding exterior, and very magnificently dressed. He
appeared exceedingly inquisitive respecting the curiosities of the city,
and spent all his time in visiting the palaces, the museums, cathedrals,
&c. One day, he called a gondolier, desiring that he might be carried to
the church of a certain saint. The boat accordingly plied through
several canals, and pulled up, at length, near the stairs of a church.
The gentleman entered the building, but quickly returned, saying,--'That
it was not the church he sought.'--'Well, then,' replied the gondolier,
'we will try another.' In this way they visited half a dozen churches;
but the traveller was still unsatisfied. The gondolier was in despair:
he had been rowing to and fro, from one end of Venice to the other, for
the last four hours. At length he suddenly pulled up before a very
ancient and venerable building; the gentleman entered, but as quickly
came out again, with the same complaint. 'Not right this time?' said the
gondolier: 'Why this is the church of Tutti Santi[11]; and if your
patron saint is not here, by San Giacomo, he is in no other church of
Venice!'".
[Sidenote: COLLEGE OF PAGES.] _Friday, 24th._--To-day I passed by the
ruins of the College of Pages, situated at the north end of Pera. Here
were educated, in various languages and accomplishments, the pages of
the Sultan,--selected from the sons of persons of the greatest
distinction among the Turks. Their education began about the age of nine
years, and continued till they were thought sufficiently instructed to
attend to the duties of their appointments about the Sultan's palace.
This noble structure was destroyed in the great fire; and will,
probably, never be rebuilt, unless some rich merchant purchases the
ground and materials, or some foreign ambassador receives it as a
present. Passed through the Christian burying-ground, which is adorned
with beautiful walks, overshadowed by cypresses; it is the favourite
winter promenade. Thence a steep descent leads to the Sultan's new
barracks; which are handsome square buildings, with regular windows, and
a turret at each angle. [Sidenote: SULTAN'S VISIT TO THE MOSQUE.] The
Sultan himself is now staying at his new palace in the neighbourhood of
Dolma Batche; and the streets of the village were gravelled for him to
go to prayers, which we were informed he would do at twelve o'clock.
From a dread of tumult or assassination, he never visits any mosque in
the city, contrary to the custom of his predecessors; and, for similar
reasons, he never announces to which he will go until the same morning,
and that as late as possible: in fact, time is only allowed for the
guards to assemble, and the ordinary preparations to be made for
receiving him.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by George. Cruikshank, from a Sketch by the
Author.
The Sultan going to Mosque.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
At half past eleven we were enlivened by the distant sounds of "Zitti,
Zitti," played by a military band; and in a short time afterwards a
regiment marched by the coffee-house in which we were smoking, and drew
up on either side of the street, which extends from the new palace to
the mosque. The band was stationed about midway, and no one was allowed
to pass or remain standing. On taking our position in front of the crowd
at the appointed hour, a Turkish officer came up, and politely
addressed us in French, with an invitation to come within the file. He
led us some distance nearer the palace, and placed us under a doorway;
where we were joined by a German baron, who resides near the village,
and who appeared to be on very friendly terms with all the officers,
three of whom speak French. The one to whom we were indebted for our
present advantageous situation remained some time conversing with us. He
was a very handsome man, the son of a Georgian; and is esteemed a good
officer, being second in command, although only nineteen years of age.
He quitted us, to join a party of American ladies, who came within the
lines, and as soon as the Sultan had passed by, he ordered ices and
lemonade for them; and although he has never been out of Constantinople,
he behaved just as any well-bred European officer would have done under
similar circumstances. [Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] As we stood chatting
together, our German friend related a curious adventure which happened
to him last year:--He was out shooting behind the village, when his
Highness rode up, accompanied by two or three officers; and as it is
unlawful to appear in the Sultan's presence with fire-arms, the German
felt himself in a very embarrassed situation. However, he stood still,
taking off his hat. The Sultan, on passing, looked hard at him; and just
at that moment, a swallow, happening to fly towards the party, he
pointed to it, and said "Tirez!" The German, though in a great fright,
understood him perfectly: he fired, and, as luck would have it, killed
the bird, which fell at the head of the Sultan's horse. His Highness was
quite delighted, exclaiming, "Eh, eh," (good, good,) and desired one of
the attendants to enquire who the sportsman was, and where he lived;
after which he rode away. Next morning, a person attached to the court
came to the baron's house, with a present of china, flowers, and a purse
containing 5000 piastres, which his sublime Highness had condescended to
present to the successful shot. The baron requested the bearer to take
his compliments and thanks to his master, and say, that he was ready to
kill a swallow every day for the same reward.
[Sidenote: SULTAN'S VISIT TO THE MOSQUE.] Namik Pasha, who had arrived
from England, France, and Prussia only a few days before, now came to
tell us, that as it was past the usual time of the Sultan's going to the
mosque, he was afraid he would not come at all to-day; that he had left
him with Count Orloff, with whom he was in a towering passion, many
angry speeches having passed between the cunning diplomatist and the
enraged sovereign. However, soon after, the order to fix bayonets and
shoulder arms, both of which were very well executed, announced his
approach, and in a few minutes afterwards the band struck up his
favourite march. At the head of the procession were three led horses,
richly caparisoned, having saddle-cloths embroidered with gold and
precious stones, and bridles ornamented in a similar gorgeous style.
They were noble-looking animals, and seemed as if conscious of the
magnificence with which they were decorated. Next to these followed
about thirty officers, consisting of generals, colonels, and captains of
the fleet, walking two and two: they wore a sort of frock coat, with
that description of cap called a fez. [Sidenote: HIS PERSONAL
APPEARANCE.] After the ministers of state, came his Sublime Highness
himself on horseback, closely wrapped up in a greyish brown cloak, with
a collar of diamonds, emeralds, and rubies, arranged in the form of
flowers--the richest and most brilliant ornament I ever beheld. Like his
officers, he also wore a plain fez, to the silk tassel of which the
paper was still left attached, as is customary with the lower orders of
the people; this fashion, in fact, seems almost universal; and when the
paper is destroyed, a new tassel is put to the cap. It was drawn close
over his ears, and down to his large black eyebrows, and his beard hung
over the diamond clasp of the cloak. His face is long; his nose,
slightly arched, indicates talent and resolution; and his eye is
remarkably large, bright, and penetrating. We took off our hats as he
passed: he looked earnestly at us, without turning his head, and after
acknowledging the salute by a slight inclination of his body, again
addressed himself to Namik Pasha, with whom he had been conversing
before he came up to us. Another party of officers closed the
procession. The Sultan has the appearance of being about fifty-five
years of age; and his blotched face, and red nose, sufficiently indicate
a _penchant_ for the bottle: indeed, on the present occasion, he
displayed strong symptoms of being in what is called "a state of
liquor," as well as in a most particular bad humour. It is reported that
he and his sword-bearer get drunk together every day, and that he once
forced the Grand Mufti to drink half a bottle of Champagne, which he
refused at first, declaring that to do so was contrary to the religion
and ordinances of the Prophet. But the Sultan told him that he was
himself the Head of the Church, and that he would make a new ordinance,
bidding the Mufti swallow what was offered him, or take the
consequences of disobedience. Upon this the Chief Priest drank off the
potion, perhaps, after all, by no means new or unacceptable; and the
Sultan, turning to a certain officer of state, who had also refused the
wine on account of similar scruples, said, "Now then you may drink,
seeing that the Head of the Church and the Chief Priest have set you the
example."
[Sidenote: NEW REGULATION SOLDIER.] In about a quarter of an hour the
Sultan returned in the same manner, and entering his palace, the
regiment marched off in good order. It was almost entirely composed of
boys; and though the whole body looked rather imposing when together,
yet individually they have by no means a military air or appearance.
Their uniform is extremely mean and unbecoming: it consists of a fez
cap, worn slouching over the eyes and ears; an ill-made jacket of coarse
blue cloth, faced and turned up with red; coarse white Russia duck
trousers, always exceedingly dirty; Wellington boots in the same
condition, into one of which the right leg of the pantaloon is generally
stuffed, while the left hangs in the ordinary fashion, or is turned up
over the ankle; the bayonet and cartouch box are both suspended at least
half a foot lower than they should be; and their linen and persons are
also disgustingly filthy. The whole of this description is by no means
an exaggerated sketch of the new regulation soldier--the hope of the
Sultan, and the terror--of whom? of himself. It is but justice, however,
to add, that the officers of this regiment presented a striking contrast
to their men, being all good looking, well dressed, and of a
soldier-like appearance; the band also was respectable, and executed
their different marches in a masterly style.
[Sidenote: PALACE OF THE BRITISH EMBASSY.] I returned by Tophana, where
there is a great mart for tobacco pipes in the vicinity of the fountain
before described. In the evening I went into the garden of the English
palace, which is very beautiful, with shrubberies, shady walks, and
bowers; but the building itself is in ruins, having been destroyed
during the late fire. Being quite isolated from any other dwelling, and
surrounded by a large garden enclosed with lofty walls, it was positive
negligence that caused its destruction. The ambassador, Sir Robert
Gordon, was up the Bosphorus, and his principal servant obstinately
refused to allow any one to enter the room where the fire had
originated, until it was too late. The damages are estimated at
20,000_l._, and perhaps the best thing that could now be done would be
to sell the materials, and either let the ground on building leases, or
dispose of it altogether. By either of these methods, a large sum would
certainly be realised, and with the produce a suitable house might be
purchased in Pera, when it is decisively ascertained that the Russians
are not to be the future masters of Constantinople; until then, it would
be useless to think of spending the money. In fact, there can be no
question that the ambassador ought to reside in Pera, in the winter
season, when the roads are often blocked up with snow, and the wind on
the Bosphorus so violent, that all communication by water, with the
villages far up the channel, is cut off; so that serious evils might
arise, not only from the distance, but occasionally from the
impossibility of claiming the ambassador's protection on any sudden
emergency. The Russians are building a splendid palace in Pera; that of
the Austrian mission was not injured; and the representatives of the new
Allies, England and France, are the only two who do not make Pera their
residence, much to the inconvenience of merchants, and all persons
connected with the embassy, particularly the members of the diplomatic
corps.
[Sidenote: ARM BAZAR.] _Saturday, 25th._--Went to the arm bazar, or
curiosity shop, which I found stored with a motley show of weapons,
dresses, ornaments, horse trappings, and armour, such as would make
George Robins's fortune, could he send his myrmidons of porters to lay
hands on all they could carry away. Helmets, spears, bucklers, bows,
battle-axes, swords, daggers, rifles, long guns; in a word, every
species of offensive and defensive weapon, from the common musket of the
English soldier to the stiff bow of the Persian, were here gathered
together from every kingdom of the East and West. [Sidenote: DAMASCUS
SWORD BLADES.] A fat Turk, squatting on his counter, tempts you, on one
hand, with a blade of the rarest Damascus steel, inscribed from hilt to
point with some verse from the Koran in Arabic letters of gold; such as
an invocation to the one God,--"Strength to the arm who wields the blade
in a righteous cause, and death to him it reaches," &c. Drawing the
sword from the gold-embroidered velvet scabbard, he rings it with his
nail, to convince you of its soundness and temper. [Sidenote: SCENE IN
THE BAZAR.] Cast your eyes in the opposite direction, and you may
observe the Armenian, in the next stall, winking and slily beckoning you
towards him. He smiles, should you condescend to notice him, but frowns
and shows impatience when you appear to disregard his attempts to seduce
you from his portly rival. The latter, finding you will not buy the
sword, displays his pistols, silks, mouth-pieces of tempting amber, and
appears determined that you shall purchase something; till at length,
his patience being fairly exhausted, he packs up his wares, and
surrenders you to the wiles of his now triumphant opponent, who feels
satisfied that he can make you take something off his hands, though the
Turk was unsuccessful. As most Englishmen appear to value swords, he
takes from his cupboard a black-looking, dust-covered, white-handled
weapon; and pushing aside his long robe with an air of the utmost
importance, he draws forth the blade, which proves to be a black
Khorassan, entirely destitute of ornament: he rings it, it returns a
silver sound; he points out the beautiful watering, the gradual
deepening of the colour from the edge to the back, and finishes by
swearing to you, whilst he looks towards the Armenians and Jew brokers
gathered around for their attesting nods, that it is the most exquisite
blade in Stamboul; that it will cut a lawn kerchief, thrown into the
air, into two parts, as clean as a pair of scissors. He then closes his
panegyric with the demand of, "How much will you give?" Scarcely waiting
for a reply, he throws it aside, as if of no value; and, in imitation of
his neighbour the Turk, endeavours to keep your curiosity awake, by
placing all his wares before you. [Sidenote: JEW BROKERS.] The instant
you turn from the disappointed merchant, you are assailed by twenty Jew
brokers at once, who, having espied their quarry from afar, have
assembled from all quarters of the bazar, and, like a flock of vultures,
are waiting near to devour you, congratulating themselves on your
unwillingness to buy of the cunning Armenian. One attacks you in bad
Italian, another in modern Greek, interlarded with a few words of
unintelligible English or French. Each is master of a stall; where,
according to his own account, you can purchase whatever you want at the
greatest advantage, though, as yet, they know not what that is, even if
you do yourself. Thus, like Actaeon, the unfortunate stranger is exposed
to the chance of being torn to pieces by the dogs who profess to call
him master, and to do his utmost bidding.
The bazar is always crowded with buyers, sellers, and idlers, so that it
costs some little squeezing and pushing to get through its various
passages. When a large purchase is contemplated, or if the seller be an
Armenian or Greek, he will adjourn with you to the neighbouring
coffee-house, and there, over a pipe and a cup of coffee, the bargain is
concluded on much better terms than in public, where, possibly, the
merchant's pride would not relish the exposure of abating some hundred
piastres, and where the sharks of brokers might lay claim to a good
recompense, for bringing the _Ingles capu dou_ to be plucked.
[Sidenote: INTERIOR OF THE BAZARS.] In the bazar the noise is deafening
from the screams of the disputing parties, and the vociferating of
prices by those who have articles for sale. It is a sort of Babel in
miniature, where Jews and brokers push by you every instant, hastily
shuffling along, and loaded with some piece of second-hand finery to be
put up at auction; such as, for instance, an incense salver, a piece of
Persian silk, an Albanian rifle, an old silk or velvet robe, embroidered
with gold, the property of some gay Turkish lady, who having exhausted
her purse the day before in a party of pleasure to the Keathane "Sweet
Waters," wishes to replenish it by the sale of a portion of her
wardrobe. To these may be added, amber mouth-pieces, bundles of long
pipe-sticks, a lot of worn-out clothes, a Persian battle-axe, China
ornaments for scents, coffee cups with their silver filigree stands, a
Cashmere shawl, &c. Each seller bawls out the last bidding for his
separate commodity in the highest note of which his voice is capable;
and as all are pitched in different keys, the stranger is soon driven
forth to seek a purer and more quiet retreat, either within the gold and
silver embroidery bazar, or in that of the Broussa silks, close by.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by George Cruikshank from a Sketch by the
Author.
Slave Market, Constantinople.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: SLAVE MARKET.] Quitting this scene of tumult, I visited a
place of a very different character,--the slave market, situated in a
square yard, three sides of which are occupied by low stone buildings,
with wooden sheds projecting in front. They were divided into rows of
cells, each having a window and door opening into the wooden enclosure
just mentioned. Within these dens,--and they exactly resemble the cells
usually occupied by wild beasts,--a "crowd of shivering slaves" were
seen either penned up within the inner apartment, or lying about, like
cattle, in the open space in front. They appeared to be all
Nubians,--black, dirty, and clothed in ragged blankets. Born to no other
inheritance but slavery, they seemed wholly unconscious of their
degraded state; and continued chattering unconcernedly, and, to all
appearance, very happy. As I stood gazing on the novel scene, the
ruffian keeper (and never did a vile, debasing occupation stamp its
character more indelibly on the physiognomy of man) led one of the black
victims forth, to meet the speculating caprices of a haggard old
Turkish woman. He proceeded to point out her good qualities, and to
descant on the firmness of her muscles, the robustness of her limbs, and
her mature age; at the same time pinching her tender flesh, by way of
proving the truth of his assertions, till the poor creature shrieked out
with agony. He then tore down her eye-lids, to exhibit the healthiness
of her eye-balls; and wrenched open her mouth, to prove, by ocular
demonstration, that he practised no deception in speaking of her age.
The old woman herself examined her all the time, and haggled, as to the
price, like a butcher when purchasing an ox in the cattle market. As I
witnessed all this, my heart sickened, and I turned with loathing from
the disgusting spectacle. Yet the poor negress was wanted only for a
domestic slave, and would, probably, be kindly treated, when once the
property of the old hag, who, I believe, purchased her at last for 1000
piastres, or fifty dollars. Indeed the girl appeared to be conscious
that the change would be advantageous to her, from the meekness with
which she bore the treatment of her persecutors. Proceeding a little
further on, we observed, sitting at the window of one of the cells, a
solitary female, whose head was covered with a linen veil. On hearing
our approach, she looked at us through its folds; in an instant after,
the covering was removed, and a pair of brilliant, dark eyes shed their
lustre upon us. Nowadays a white slave is seldom found in the market,
the Russians protecting the Circassian and the Georgian, and the French
and English the Greek. When they do appear, they are generally disposed
of at a high price. [Sidenote: GEORGIAN SLAVE.] This beautiful captive,
who proved to be a Georgian, was neither bashful nor timid. She saluted
us with smiles, severing her raven locks, and trying to captivate the
spectators, by making her beauty appear to the greatest advantage.
However, it did not seem to possess any power over the Turks; and as to
the Christians, they are not allowed to purchase slaves publicly, though
sometimes it is done indirectly, and by the assistance of some friendly
Osmanli. I saw but three or four men-slaves, with a few boys, all
Nubians, and, like their female companions, in a dirty, miserable
condition. They were chained together, two and two, by the ankles.
Having now satisfied my curiosity in regard to this much talked-of but
loathsome spot, I was most glad to hear the proposition that we should
adjourn to Mustapha's. From him we learned that the Georgian beauty had
been exposed to sale for several days; but that no one had offered to
purchase her, the sum demanded being exorbitant. Her proprietor was a
rich man, and could afford to wait until some one consented to put down
the 2500 piastres at which he valued her.
[Sidenote: TURKISH CONFECTIONERY.] Passing through the old-clothes'
bazar, the Monmouth Street of Stamboul, we came to a range of stalls
occupied by the engravers and cutters of precious stones. Many talismans
were offered to us, set very neatly in blood-stone, carnelian, and lapis
lazuli. The day was wound up with the important business of tasting the
different varieties of confectionery to be found in a large, handsome
shop near the Balouk bazar. All were luscious, and many, particularly
the preserved rose leaves, were even delicate. We partook of some thirty
or forty different sorts; in which flowers, scents, fruits, and gums
were mixed with sugar, until of the consistence of damson cheese. The
Turks eat a vast quantity of these cloying sweetmeats, after which they
drink abundance of sherbet. A glass of good brandy, however, would, in
my opinion, be a much better corrective.
[Sidenote: ARMENIAN VISITORS.] _Sunday, 26th._--Went up to Terapia this
morning, and spent the day in wandering through the Sultan's Valley,
under the superb plane trees, and returned to dine on board the Actaeon.
After dinner, a party of young Armenians came on board, accompanied by
their tutor. They were sons of a man of distinguished rank among his
countrymen, residing on the Bosphorus; and one of them, the eldest,
about eighteen years of age, was so fat, round, and sleek, that we all
decided him to be what Baba threatened to make poor Juan. The other two
brothers were very fine intelligent lads, and there was also a cousin
with them, a heavy, shy, youngster. The tutor, who was a young man of
about twenty-two, spoke French, Italian, English, and Latin, fluently.
His pupils, likewise, understood a little English, and French uncommonly
well. They were delighted with their reception, and remained a long time
at table in the gun-room, drinking their wine with much relish, and
seeming to prefer it to coffee, especially the younger boy, who, had he
been permitted, would have willingly finished a whole bottle to his own
share. On taking leave, they invited us all to their father's residence;
but we never availed ourselves of the invitation, possibly because we
discovered that they had no sisters; and the inside of the black house,
below Jene Keni, was in itself an insufficient attraction, without the
chance of getting a glimpse of a fair Armenian girl, divested of her
odious gashmak, and the form-concealing cloak.
The evening was lovely, and my sail down to Pera delightful: no sound
broke upon the ear, save the rippling of the current against the caique
as it glided lightly along, like the bird, which skims closely over the
surface of the ocean, and appears to bathe its plumage in the waves,
though in reality without wetting its crescent wings.
[Sidenote: ORIENTAL COSTUME.] _Monday, 27th._--Strolled again in the
bazar: this word means barter, or the act of bargaining for the sale or
purchase of any commodity; and it is in them that all the retail trade
of Constantinople is carried on. As these cloistered passages exclude
the rays of the sun, they are cool and pleasant places to lounge in,
except that the pavement is usually in a very dilapidated state. The
merchants themselves present an interesting spectacle, each wearing the
proper costume of his respective country, which, with the motley garb of
the crowd incessantly passing to and fro, amuses the stranger's eye with
a curious and almost infinite variety of dress and appearance. For the
convenience of those who arrive periodically at Stamboul from the most
distant portions of the empire, in caravans, there are large khans
provided; which, being built entirely of stone, are fire-proof, and
afford ample accommodation for the merchants with their attendants and
property. [Sidenote: TURKS.--ARMENIANS.--GREEKS.] Yonder sits the Turk,
grave and taciturn: his goods are spread before him on his counter, and
samples hang around in neat array; but satisfied with this, and trusting
to their intrinsic value to recommend them, he smokes with a haughty
air, and disdains to utter a single word to arrest the stranger's
passing steps. Should you question him about the price, and attempt to
cheapen his merchandise, the answer will be comprised in two words; and
if the abatement be again proposed, he replies with an economical "No,"
and a whiff of smoke, after which he again relapses into his former
apathy.
That bearded elder, seated on a low stool with the dark clouds of
thought and mental calculation visible on his countenance, is an
Armenian. Though he will submit to a diminution of his price, he is
honest; and though a man of few words also, yet is he civil without
affectation, and persuasive from the apparent sincerity of his
professions.
[Sidenote: JEW INTERPRETERS.] Their neighbour, however, makes ample
amends for the taciturnity of both. He is a Greek, and you may hear him
at the other extremity of the bazar. The most laboured efforts of the
rhetorician bear no comparison with the honied, artful speeches, and the
gay and cheerful air by which he detains, wheedles, and finally
succeeds in obliging the passer by to purchase, or at least examine the
contents of his stall. Observe yon poor devil, dragged first this way,
then thrust back again, trying in vain to still the tempest which rages
around him, by speaking half a dozen languages in a breath. He is an
interpreter, or go-between in a purchase, and seems torn to pieces in
the whirlwind of voices which assail him from the disputing parties, in
each of whose languages he tries to explain; but, poor patient Jew! you
never could speak any of them intelligibly, and your nasal twang, and
drawling accent, so disguises what you do say, that nothing but a
miracle could make you understood. The screams, the grimaces, the
gestures which these people exhibit, during their unavailing efforts to
render themselves understood, appear inexpressibly ludicrous to the
indifferent spectator, and their perseverance is still more
extraordinary, since it rarely happens that their best endeavours are
repaid by any thing better than reproaches, kicks, and imprecations.
[Sidenote: TURKISH CIVILITY.] Our old friend Mustapha reposes so much
confidence in the honour of an Englishman, that this morning he offered
to lend me any sum I wished, with no other security than my simple
word. In order to convince me of his ability to make good this promise,
after removing a stone from the floor, he unlocked an iron trap-door,
and showed me a mine of gold pieces concealed below. He was delighted
with a rough sketch I made of him; indeed, many circumstances go to
prove that the fanatical aversion of the Turks to portraits and pictures
is much on the decline, notwithstanding all representations of the human
figure are strictly prohibited by the Mahomedan law. The Sultan has had
his likeness taken twice already, and he is going to sit a third time to
an English artist of the name of Atkins.
_Tuesday, 28th._--A ship arrived from Malta to-day, bringing
intelligence that the formidable English fleet destined to join the
French squadron might soon be expected in the Dardanelles. All Pera is
in raptures at this news, and there is now some hope that the Russian
Bear will be forced to draw in his claws.
[Sidenote: DECREASE OF FANATICISM.] I walked about Stamboul to-day, and
experienced much civility from the Turks, who took infinite trouble to
answer all my enquiries. When I made them understand by signs that I
wished to cross the Horn, many left their little stools and walked some
distance to put me in the right course. How changed is their conduct in
this respect from what it was at no very remote period, when a
Christian hardly dared be seen in the streets, and when the Turk, for
mere sport, thought nothing of drawing a pistol and shooting at any
Frank whom he happened to observe looking out of his window; and not
only the foreign merchant, but even the consul, was obliged to have a
guard of janissaries to attend him from his house to his office. At that
time, too, the wealthy Christian, in passing through the streets of
Stamboul, was often stopped and compelled to sweep the muddy crossing;
and even the dogs were allowed to worry him, without his daring to beat
them off. Happily those days of fanatical intolerance are for ever
passed; and the irresistible march of civilisation, by gradually
weakening his prejudices, has humanised even the intolerant and
ferocious Mussulman.[12]
[Sidenote: CASHMERE SHAWLS.] _Thursday, 30th._--To-day a man brought for
sale a quantity of Persian silk, which was very soft and beautiful, and
the colours were bright and well arranged; he had also some black
Cashmere shawls with variegated borders: though the patterns looked
handsome, they were of inferior qualities, and not to be compared with
the French and Scotch imitations. Not being inclined to purchase any, I
posted off to the khan, where the Angora shalee is sold, and saw some
beautiful specimens of this soft and warm manufacture, whose fine silky
texture renders it a great object of commerce for ladies' dresses: the
price is about 300 piastres for eight pics, which is the requisite
quantity.
[Sidenote: TURKISH BATH.] I returned to Pera to take the hummum or bath,
the one there being very clean, quiet, and well managed. A narrow
platform, raised about three feet from the ground, and covered with
cushions, runs round the whole of the first chamber, which is lighted
from above by a glazed cupola; and a fountain of clear water playing
continually in the centre, spreads a delicious coolness throughout. As
soon as we had mounted the stage, one of the bath-men offered carpets
and cushions, but my companion refused them, for the plague is often
communicated by using these _pro bono publico_ comforts; and a Perote
lives in constant dread of this terrible malady. After undressing, we
hung our clothes on pegs, and covered ourselves with a linen towel,
devoted to that laudable purpose, and which, if neglected in the
slightest degree, calls forth the most energetic remonstrances from the
old Turk, who sits smoking near the fountain.
The wooden pattens or slippers used by the bathers were arranged on the
steps by which we mounted the stage, and I had several narrow escapes
from being prostrated on the marble pavement ere I reached the small
door leading into the hummum; so difficult do the uninitiated find the
use of these wooden bridges, which are clumsy, heavy, and slippery as
skates. I shuffled along very awkwardly, much to the amusement of three
sedate old gentlemen, who were puffing and melting from the effects of a
long sojourn in the heated atmosphere of the inner chamber. The first
hot room was rather pleasant; and after remaining there a few moments,
to break ourselves in for the furious attack on the pores to be expected
in the next, we entered the second chamber, and again pushed on into the
third, where the sensation, though at first unpleasant, gradually became
delightful. Coffee and pipes were now brought in; and sitting down on a
low marble bench, we consigned ourselves to the influence of the melting
atmosphere, thinking of the unhappy condition of the mutton-chop, when
it exclaimed in a piteous voice to the gridiron, "I am all of a
perspiration." There were several other bathers undergoing this process
of fermentation; and when the coffee was finished, and the pipe laid
aside, two fellows placed me gently on my back, and commenced rubbing,
squeezing, and twisting my arms, ribs, and legs till I thought every
joint would be dislocated. I soon felt satisfied with this sort of
discipline, though, upon the whole, the sensations were rather
disagreeable than painful. The room where we underwent the operation is
an octagon, with an arched roof, into which light is admitted through a
number of bulls' eyes, or knots of glass; and a marble basin is fixed
against the wall on each of its eight sides, into which two pipes, with
stop-cocks, admit both hot and cold water. With this you deluge yourself
by means of a large metal ladle chained to the wall; or it is done by
the bath-man, should you prefer the assistance of another. Within this
chamber was a smaller one, containing similar basins, and to one of
these I moved, followed by one of the men, who, after lathering me from
head to foot with a sort of slimy caustic soap, scrubbed me down with a
brush made of aloe shreds. Having overwhelmed me once more with cold and
hot water, and given a finishing pull or two at my limbs, he left me to
duck myself, if I thought fit; but I had had quite enough, and hurried
back into the second chamber. Here I was enveloped in hot towels, one
being wound round my head, another round each leg, &c., and in this way
I returned to the first court, where I mounted the stage, and sat down
to dry, smoking a good half hour before I resumed my clothes. Instead of
being exhausted, as might have been expected, I felt highly refreshed,
and grew delightfully cool in a short time, though I fancied I had lost
some pounds of flesh.
As regards the natives of the East, bathing can scarcely be styled a
luxury; to them, it is really indispensable; for as they do not change
their clothes even at night for months together, in fact, not until worn
out, they would be otherwise insufferable beasts; but by frequenting the
bath every day, or every other day, and performing the ablutions imposed
on them in the Koran, with their quiet sedate mode of life, they are
actually rendered very cleanly animals. The women have the use of the
baths in the afternoon, when they assemble in crowds, and all the
scandal and news of the town is circulated, marriages concluded, and the
secret intrigues of the parties are reciprocally detailed; in short,
every thing which may be supposed to be brought on the tapis in an
exclusive meeting of the fair sex. Nature is every where the same; and I
presume, whether in a bath at Stamboul, a Parisian saloon, or a
drawing-room in London, a similar love of gossip is their distinguishing
characteristic. Almost every quarter of Stamboul is furnished with its
baths or hummums; and the houses of all rich Turks possess this
desirable luxury, which is used by the male part of the family in the
morning, and by the females afterwards. The plan on which they are
constructed is the same throughout the East: in them shaving is
universally performed; the hair is dyed, the beard is made to assume a
beautiful glossy black; and the depilatory pincers and ointments of the
ladies are applied to the purposes for which they are designed. The bath
I used was opposite the sherbet vender, on the hill of Pera, who is so
well described in "The Armenians" of Macfarlane; and whose little
fountain of water, flowing through machinery, and setting wheels,
circles, and bells all in motion together, is no slight decoy to the
thirsty passenger. I have read "The Armenians" with great pleasure. The
description of the _locale_, as well as of the manners, customs, and
general appearance of the native and foreign inhabitants of
Constantinople, is given with admirable fidelity; in short, no modern
work with which I am acquainted presents a more lively and faithful
picture of this queen of cities.
[Sidenote: EASTERN STORY-TELLER.] _Friday, 31st._--Instead of making an
excursion to the Sweet Waters, I went with my friend the American
secretary to visit the coffee-houses in the Armenian quarter, where an
improvisatore exhibits his talents every holyday. Immense crowds of
respectable Turks assemble there to listen to the narrations of this
accomplished story-teller; and it is even said that the Grand Signior
himself is often present as an auditor in disguise. In all the
coffee-houses there were concerts of vocal and instrumental music; the
former consisting of songs or chants performed by a number of voices
together, or else one man sang a single verse, to which all the others
responded by way of chorus. Occasionally they varied their performances
by singing alternate verses of the same song. We sat in the open air, on
a long pier of wood built out into the sea, where there were hundreds
besides, perched upon low stools, smoking, or eating delicious ices and
mahalabe, and laughing and talking with more vivacity than I could have
expected in beings generally so taciturn, and so absorbed in the
contemplation of their own importance. At last, a man came to the door
of the largest coffee-room and clapped his hands, when the Turks
immediately moved into this apartment, in which seats were arranged in a
semicircular form one above the other, as in a theatre. A portion of the
floor, in front of the benches, was occupied by low stools, probably
reserved for visitors of distinction; and close to the wall was a
rostrum and a large easy arm-chair, on one side of which stood a little
desk.
[Sidenote: MATTHEWS AT CONSTANTINOPLE.] Our Oriental friends behaved
with much politeness: for, perceiving from our European costume that we
were strangers, they offered us places in front of the stage; and after
a few minutes' delay a man entered, and was handed up to the platform
and chair amidst a buzz of universal applause. In his hand he carried a
small stick, and in gait, physiognomy, and manner bore a singular
resemblance to our English Matthews. He was dressed in a frock coat, now
so generally worn in Constantinople, and wore, on one of his fingers, a
most superb brilliant ring, which, it is said, was presented to him by
the Sultan, as a mark of his especial approbation. A profound silence
prevailed among the company the moment he made his appearance; every one
seeming desirous to be amused, and most anxious to catch every word that
fell from his lips. [Sidenote: ORIENTAL JOHN TROT.] No story-teller of
Stamboul had ever enjoyed so much fame and popularity as this Turkish
Matthews, who, rising from his seat and making three very profound
obeisances to the company, commenced his "At Home" with a series of
imitations, in which he personated a Turk from Aleppo, the Yorkshire or
Calabria of the East. This Oriental John Trot, is represented as setting
out on his journey to see the world and make his fortune; and with this
intent visits various places. On one occasion, being mistaken for a
Pasha in disguise, he is every where feasted, and treated with the most
respectful attention, until the real truth being discovered, he is
bastinadoed, spit upon, plucked by the beard, and, in short, maltreated
in a thousand different ways. At last he finds his way to Stamboul, and
manages to obtain an interview with his Sublime Highness; after which he
visits England, France, &c., and on his way back is taken by a pirate,
who carries him to the coast of Africa. During this compulsatory voyage,
he describes himself as affected with the most horrible sea sickness;
and here his representation of a person labouring under that detestable
malady was so accurate, that I almost fancied myself again in the
cockpit of the Actaeon, and all the terrors of the voyage across the
Adriatic arose fresh to my imagination. After many other adventures, he
returns safe to [Sidenote: INGENIOUS MIMICRY.] Aleppo, his native city,
no richer than he set out; but, like the monkey who had seen the world,
"full of wise saws," and strange assertions. His hairbreadth escapes,
the unlucky scrapes he gets into, the blunders he is incessantly
committing from his imperfect knowledge of the languages of the various
nations among whom he is thrown, the continual equivoque and play upon
words, his absurd misconceptions of the orders he receives, his
buffetings, bastinadoes, feasts, imprisonments, and escapes, the odd
satirical remarks elicited by the different objects, places, and strange
fashions he encounters,--all afforded opportunities to the ingenious
mimic for displaying the versatility of his powers. The changes, too, of
voice, manner, look, gesture, suitable to the various characters he
assumed, were infinitely ludicrous and entertaining. In this respect he
was little, if at all, inferior, to his mirth-inspiring brother of the
Adelphi; in proof of which, I need only state, that, though utterly
unacquainted with his language, and enabled to follow the thread of the
story only by the hurried explanations of Hodgson, I sat listening and
laughing with the greatest satisfaction for more than two hours, without
feeling my attention at all beginning to flag. [Sidenote: A DELIGHTED
AUDIENCE.] As to the Turks, they were literally convulsed with
laughter; shouting, screaming, and uttering a thousand exclamations of
delight; and more than once it was evident, from their uproarious mirth,
that he had succeeded in satirising the peculiarities of some well-known
individual. At every pause in the story--very necessary for the actor,
who was often exhausted by the violence of his gesticulations--wooden
trays were handed about, and every one was expected to contribute a few
paras. Of course the liberality of the audience was proportioned to the
gratification they received; and on the present occasion he, no doubt,
experienced substantial proofs of their approbation in a pretty
considerable harvest of silver pieces. I could have remained with
pleasure to hear another tale, but the heat was overpowering, and my
friend also seemed anxious to get away; so we quitted the room with our
risible muscles somewhat sore from long-continued exertion.
The refreshing coolness of the sea breeze induced us to hire a caique,
and we coasted along towards the Seraglio Point. The walls on this side
of the triangle, which encloses Constantinople, are, perhaps, the most
ancient of all, and remains of former splendour are every where seen
intermingled with the ordinary materials of which they are composed.
Capitals of superb workmanship, friezes, and columns, are not only
embedded in the masonry, but thousands of pillars piled one above the
other form the foundations, in many parts, which may be plainly
distinguished beneath the transparent waves.
[Sidenote: BOOK MARKET.] _Saturday, June 1st._--Notwithstanding it
rained heavily this morning, I went over to Stamboul to see what I could
pick up in the Sahof Charshousi, or book-market. This bazar is very
quiet, as befits a temple devoted to literature, and most of the
merchants are old fellows with spectacle on nose, who sit in a corner of
their shop-board, and pass the time in poring over the Koran, or some of
the thousand and one commentaries written upon it. Their books and
manuscripts are piled up without order, and they seem never to know
where to put their hands upon any work which may be demanded. There was
an infinite number of manuscripts of Persian poetry, and I bought
several beautifully illuminated almanacks; but if, while examining
these, I approached a volume of the Koran, or, indeed, any religious
book, they either snatched it away, or interposed themselves in such a
manner, that I could not touch the object of this extraordinary
precaution.
[Sidenote: CURIOUS MANUSCRIPTS.] I bought one book, which the owner said
was a treatise on mathematics; it however appeared to me to be more
like a genealogical tree, and so it turned out. My friend Hodgson, who
is well versed in the Oriental languages, pronounced it to be a
Silsileh-nameh, or genealogy of the Ottoman emperors from Adam to the
present Sultan; a work of extreme rarity, and the most complete he had
ever seen. Through his assistance I procured a very good copy of the
Koran, and also a firman, signed by Sultan Selim, granting permission to
a rich Turk to bequeath his fortune as an endowment for four priests, on
condition that they employed themselves in sweeping the mosque at Mecca.
This document, which is very long, is beautifully written on gold, and
is altogether a very splendid specimen of Oriental penmanship. I also
bought some Turkish spelling-books, very tastefully painted and
ornamented, such as are used in the schools.
_Monday, 3d._--As the heat of the weather begins to be oppressive, my
companion and myself have determined to remove to Terapia, where we
have, after some difficulty, engaged a house close to the back gate of
the English palace, and commanding a fine view of the Bosphorus. This
morning we took possession of our abode, which is furnished by its
proprietor, Mauvromati, with all we required; and we have hired one
Demetrio, a most obliging, clever fellow, who speaks Persian, Turkish,
Greek, French, and English; besides these accomplishments, he is an
excellent cook.
The mids of the Actaeon found a name for the establishment immediately:
pipes, porter, bread and cheese, and whisky toddy, became the order of
the day, and night, too; and these jovial youths have transferred their
berth to the "Jolly Landsmen."
[Sidenote: NAVAL BANQUET.] But there was another inducement to move to
Terapia; for the midshipmen of the Actaeon gave their brother officers of
the French frigate Galatea a dinner, in return for one to which they had
been invited. The starboard side of the main deck was partitioned off by
sails, and converted into a very handsome cabin, which was hung with a
drapery of the flags of all nations, except the Rusky, whom we
unanimously voted unworthy to hold companionship with the Jack and the
Tricolor, which, with the Turkish blood-red flag, formed a handsome
canopy at the head of the table. The ambassador and the captain lent
their plate, and the ship's cooks were put under the orders of the
palace chef. The pieces montees, sweetmeats, &c. were under the
direction of the ambassador's Italian confectioner; the wines were
partly from the embassy cellar, and partly from the captain, and the
renowned Stampa of Galata. Plenty of volunteers from the marines and
sailors joined the ship's boys as attendants; so that altogether, the
affair was splendidly got up, and did honour to the British mids. Our
dinner was a capital one; for the cook, fired with national emulation,
surpassed all his previous efforts, and, in consequence, the table was
covered with the rarest delicacies that art and nature could supply; the
dessert consisted of all the rich and exquisite fruits which this sunny
clime and fertile soil produce in an almost endless variety; and of ices
and Champagne there was no lack. Twenty-six sat down to the sumptuous
repast; and when the cloth was removed, the wine circulated briskly,
while the bond of amity between the French and English sailor, was
strengthened by the interchange of many a loyal toast and happy
well-timed allusion to the brave and martial character of the two
nations; nor was music wanting to complete our joyous revelry: the whole
budget of lower deck songs was completely exhausted; the guests
contributing their quota of _chansons a boire_, &c. to the general
hilarity; and "God save the King" and "Rule Britannia" were succeeded by
the "Parisienne" and the "Marseilloise." Thus was the party bravely kept
up till about midnight, when twenty out of the number, though sailors,
were "half-seas over;" and though the sea was, in reality, as smooth as
a lake, they imagined themselves tossing in some heavy swell, bidding
their companions remark how dreadfully the ship pitched and rolled, and
declaring unanimously that a retreat into the hammocks was next to an
impossibility. Three of our ancient and hereditary foes were borne (not
steadily, I trow) to the ship's side, and gently lowered from the
gangway, 'mid tears of joy; dead,--but not from piercing of cruel shot,
nor from "ghastly wound of glittering steel:" no, they were laid
prostrate by rapid discharges from the circling bottle, and the
overpowering draughts of glorious red hot "bishop." Being at length all
safely stowed in the Actaeon's jolly-boat,--for in what other could so
noble a band of topers have been appropriately embarked?--
"They were row'd to their ship,
By the mess they had dined with."
In returning to the Actaeon, after a game of cricket in the Sultan's
Valley, we approached as close as possible to head-quarters, where the
Russian and Turkish bands were playing. The Russians often sang between
the airs; and some two or three hundred voices joining in chorus, during
the stillness of evening, produced a very impressive effect. Parties of
the soldiers were engaged in dancing; and, in fact, it seemed to be a
gala day, for there was a display of fireworks, and an illumination
throughout the camp in the evening.
[Sidenote: SEVEN TOWERS.] This spectacle, which had all the air of
enchantment, was seen to great advantage from the quay at Terapia. It
continued to a late hour; and the inhabitants of that quarter assert it
to have been merely a _ruse_, to occupy the attention of the idle and
inquisitive, who might otherwise be spying about and discover the other
and more serious game going on behind the Point, where soldiery are
daily landed from the fleet, and the small craft which come in from the
Black Sea. The stratagem is a good one, and I dare say some hundreds of
men will be added to the encamped army, while certain unconscious
diplomatists are sipping their coffee, and complacently gazing at these
fiery devices.
_Thursday, 6th._--Jeddi Cale, or the Seven Towers, may be considered as
the Bastile of the East. They were erected by the immediate successors
of Constantine the Great, to strengthen the fortifications at one of the
angles of the wall which surrounds the city, but in succeeding ages were
converted into a formidable state prison. This cluster of forts was
originally five in number, until Theodosius, in order to commemorate his
victory over Maximus, erected a triumphal arch, which being flanked by
towers, the structure thenceforward received the appellation which it
now bears. In 1768, one of the most ancient of these castles fell down,
and its majestic ruins afford ample proof of the vast solidity of the
masonry. Each tower is about 200 feet high, and the walls which enclose
them are double, and enormously thick, being constructed of immense
blocks of stone; but since the invention of gunpowder they are no longer
considered impregnable. This edifice, after being first used as a
barrack for the janissaries, was converted into a prison, in which,
contrary to the law of nations and every principle of justice, the
minister of any power against whom the Sultan happened to declare war,
was immured, until the termination of the quarrel.
This shameful and barbarous violation of the usages which prevail in
every other European government, has at all times been regretted by the
respectable Turks, who acknowledge it to be a base and disgraceful
stigma upon their national character.
From the time when the Seven Towers thus became the prison of
ambassadors, they acquired an interest and celebrity which otherwise
they never could have attained. Mystery and romance took them under
their especial protection; and Eastern imaginations joined themselves to
those of the West, in inventing tales of horror, dark, deep, and
tragical, connected with the dungeons and caverns beneath these dreaded
walls. That gloomy aperture which yawns beneath your footsteps is called
the Well of Blood; even the Turkish guide acknowledges that it has often
overflowed with human gore! Within this low arched vault, from which the
cheerful sun is for ever excluded, the victim lay extended upon the
rack, until death itself became a welcome relief; and upon its walls
were arranged, in dreadful order, all the infernal instruments of
torture, by which the cruelty of man endeavoured to extort from the
wretched prisoners a confession of crimes, perhaps never committed, and
of conspiracies, existing only in the guilty imaginations of their
oppressors. A little court within the precincts of the building was
pointed out to me as having frequently contained a pyramid of human
heads, reaching so high, that, standing upon its summit, you might have
looked over the walls, and beheld the pure and peaceful Sea of Marmora.
The guide also made me remark a number of narrow passages, scarcely high
enough to admit a dog, through which it is reported that the miserable
captive was formerly compelled to crawl upon his belly, and then left to
perish from starvation, while he licked the dust in the extremity of his
agony.
Thanks, however, to civilisation, these horrors are now no longer
perpetrated; and, indeed, for the honour of human nature, one is
desirous of believing that the greater portion of them are mere fables,
invented by the guides, for the purpose of gratifying a morbid taste for
the horrible, and to enhance the interest of the place. A few old
soldiers are at present the only occupants of this redoubtable fortress,
which is rapidly falling to ruin, though a remnant of the jealousy of
former ages still requires a firman to be obtained, before you are
allowed to visit its once formidable interior.
[Sidenote: TOMB OF ALI PASHA.] Leaving the towers, and proceeding on
towards the village of Ejub, we came to the range of tombs, which formed
one of the principal objects of the day's excursion. It is situated near
the gate Selyori, through which passes the road leading in the direction
of Santo Stefano.
It is a low square piece of rough masonry, erected of oblong stones, in
the centre of a small verdant grove, and canopied by the luxuriant
foliage of a magnificent plane tree.
Intermingled with this mass of smiling verdure and blossom-loaded
boughs, appeared the dark funereal cypress, the emblem of death,
intruding itself in melancholy contrast with the smiling and cheerful
tints by which it is encircled.
The tombs consist of five tall sculptured stones, of unequal height,
surmounted by turbans, and inscribed with the following legend in
gilded characters, explanatory of the fate of the individuals whose
names it commemorates:--"Here is deposited the head of the once
celebrated Ali of Tepeleni, governor of the Sanjak of Janina, who for
upwards of fifty years aspired to independence in Albania. Also, the
heads of his three sons, Mouktar Pasha, Veli Pasha, Saelik Pasha; and
that of his grandson, Mehemet Pasha."
[Sidenote: RUSSIAN INSOLENCE.] Being unable to proceed farther along the
walls, we returned, through the city, to the Golden Horn, and arrived
rather late in Pera, where Hodgson and a friend of his from Beiroot,
were waiting dinner. The latter gentleman is the American Vice-consul in
Syria, and has visited Constantinople in the hope of recovering some
money to which he is entitled for the salvage of a valuable English
ship, lost on the coast near Beiroot. He amused us until a late hour
with many interesting descriptions of Beiroot, Lady Stanhope, and the
monks and cedars of Lebanon. Among other anecdotes, he related a curious
incident that happened to him yesterday. He accompanied a party of
Americans to Buyukdere, where they took a caique, and rowed alongside
the Russian flag-ship. The sentinel at the gangway immediately ordered
them to sheer off, and, on demanding the reason, they were told that
they must not attempt to approach without the admiral's permission.
Nothing daunted, they desired the man to ask the officer of the watch to
allow them to inspect the interior of the vessel; but he flatly refused,
because "they were Englishmen."
No sooner, however, was it explained that they were Americans, than they
were desired to wait, while the officer reported this communication to
his superior; the result of which was, that the admiral himself came on
deck and took them down to his cabin, where he treated them to a
luncheon of bread and cheese, fruit, and porter. When he had shown them
over the ship, he ordered his boat to be manned, and conducted them
himself to the head-quarters of the camp, sent an officer as their
guide, and patiently waited until they had fully gratified their
curiosity. But his attentions did not end there; for he took them on
board again, gave them another luncheon, and afterwards sent them ashore
at Buyukdere in his own boat.
My friend Marriot, who left us some time ago to visit Ibrahim at
Kutahieh, has returned with Mr. Costingen, who went to meet him at
Broussa, a charming city, surrounded by mulberry groves, situated at the
foot of Mount Olympus. It was the first residence of the Ottoman Emirs,
commencing with Orchan, whose mausoleum, strange to say, is a beautiful
octagonal church, belonging to a Greek monastery of that period. The
tombs of sultans, Ilderim, Bayazid, and of Amurath I., are also at
Broussa.
[Sidenote: IBRAHIM PASHA.] Marriot remained a day with Ibrahim, taking
the bath and dining with him. He is a fine fellow by his account; he
said he would have been in Stamboul, in spite of the Russians, if the
French and English had not interposed, and prevented him by their
threats; adding, that they would, ere long, back him, and wish they had
not interfered. If the allies would furnish him with 50,000 muskets, he
declared himself ready to begin the war again, with certain hopes of
success, provided they took no part in the contest; for he could raise
150,000 Syrians, besides the assistance of 45,000 Persians, who were
offered to him. He says, the day must arrive, when he shall be in
Stamboul, with the full approbation of both English and French, who will
find their truest policy is, to establish him on the throne of
Constantinople; and thus erect an effectual barrier against the
encroaching ambition of the Northern powers.
Marriot and his friend went up to Olympus, and remained encamped there
two days, for the purpose of bear-hunting; but meeting with no success,
they returned, and, taking boat, arrived at Constantinople by night.
[Sidenote: RUSSIAN INSOLENCE.] As they were quietly ascending the hill
towards Pera, the guard seized upon them, and, notwithstanding their
remonstrances, took them to the common prison, where they were thrust in
among a crowd of wretches who had been pining there for several days.
Indignant at this outrage, they sent a messenger for the consul, and for
Giuseppino, at break of day; and in the course of the morning, after a
tremendous row with the colonel of the guard-house, they were set at
liberty. The consul is exasperated, but they will get no redress, so
long as the present system of English diplomacy exists. Be it in Pera or
in Madrid, Petersburg or Naples, poor John Bull must always be kicked
and cuffed, ill used, and treated contrary to the law of the land in
which he happens to be sojourning. Is it to be supposed that any
minister would give himself the trouble to mix himself up in such
affairs? He might address a note to the authorities, when the facts
would in all probability be denied, or some paltry excuse made: the
minister declares himself satisfied, and the Perotes have the laugh
against us and our boasted powerful and energetic government. Now, had
it been a Frenchman, a Russian, or even a Prussian, who had been served
in this scandalous manner, how different would have been the result! The
colonel would have been dismissed, if not imprisoned; an apology from
the government, with the corporal punishment of the insolent soldiers,
and every satisfaction that could have washed away such foul treatment,
would have assuredly followed. For, though the law allows the arrest of
persons going through the streets at night without a light; yet, the
officer, seeing they were gentlemen, and just arrived by sea, had full
discretionary power to send them home with a guard; or, if it was
thought requisite to detain them, he had a good chamber in which they
might have been placed. But, insolent and obstinate, he turned a deaf
ear to every remonstrance, and ended by placing them in the same room
with filthy beggars and malefactors.
[Sidenote: ANECDOTE.] As an illustration of what has been just stated, I
will present the reader with a similar and somewhat more ludicrous
anecdote. A few weeks since, Costingen had gone on horseback to
Buyukdere, where, in passing the Sultan's kiosk at Dolma Batche, it is
always necessary to dismount. Woe betide the unlucky wight who, failing
to comply with this custom, happens to ride through the precincts of
the palace. Our Turk, however, forgot all this, and was instantly
arrested and insulted by the officer of the guard and the soldiers, who
dragged him into the guard-house, preparatory to his being sent off to
prison. Having discovered that he was mistaken for an Englishman, and
finding matters were assuming a rather serious aspect, he luckily
bethought of saying he was a Russian, "Rusky effendi ben! Rusky, Rusky!"
roared he. Consternation immediately spread itself over the sleepy
countenances of the Turks at this announcement. The captain, in the
utmost alarm, begged his pardon, and pipes, coffee, ices, &c. were
offered him by the soldiers, who declared themselves ready to fulfil his
slightest commands. The captain of the guard, as well as he could
explain himself, enquired why did he not say at once that he was a
Russian? "Mashallah! it was an unlucky mistake. Am I not blind, not to
see that you were no Englishman?" Further to propitiate the newly
created Muscovite colonel's wrath, a guard of five men, a guard of
honour,--hear it, ye Englishmen!--was sent to conduct him safe home, and
to protect him from further insult; and with this guard of honour,
Costingen the Turk actually marched through the streets of Pera, and
came to Tongo's house!
[Sidenote: GREEKS AND TURKS.] Such is the respect paid to the subjects
of an energetic government. Yet it must not be supposed that the Russian
finds any real sympathy in the breasts of the people: no! the Turks hate
them as they do Satan, and declare in private that they would "spit upon
their beards, and burn their fathers;" an oriental expression,
indicative of extreme hatred and contempt.
It was very late when I started from Tophana[13] to return to Terapia.
The evening was calm and beautiful, and as the caique glided slowly up
the stream, following all the sinuosities of the shore, the jasmine and
orange flower, and the sweet roses which are now blooming in myriads,
filled the air with their perfumed odours.
[Sidenote: TURKISH PUNCHINELLO.] As we passed the house of the Moslem,
all was gloomy silence; but on nearing a Greek village, the enlivening
sound of the song, the guitar, and followed by bursts of merriment,
broke upon the ear; and the frequent clapping of hands, and the strain
of the romaika, or the Italian waltz, which came floating over the
water, told of the merry joyous inmates, who are ever seen to prefer
the dance and song, to the pipe and coffee-cup; the twinkling feet, and
sparkling smile, to the grave nod and solemn demeanour of their former
tyrants. A little below Jene Keni, near one of the Turkish batteries,
the Turkish Punchinello was exhibiting his grotesque antics. It is long
since this merry devil has been allowed to stroll about, and amuse the
lower orders; but he does sometimes make his appearance. A transparent
skreen, illuminated from behind, concealed him from the spectators, so
that his shadow was the sole actor of all his tricks and a
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