The Expedition to Borneo of H.M.S. Dido
by Sir Henry Keppel · English · Gutenberg #22903 · 1,023,099 chars · public domain (US)
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Title: The Expedition to Borneo of H.M.S. Dido
Author: Sir Henry Keppel
Rajah of Sarawak James
Release date: October 6, 2007 [eBook #22903]
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/22903
Credits: Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
produced from scanned images of public domain material
from the Google Print project.)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE EXPEDITION TO BORNEO OF H.M.S. DIDO ***
Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
produced from scanned images of public domain material
from the Google Print project.)
THE EXPEDITION TO BORNEO
OF
H. M. S. DIDO
FOR
THE SUPPRESSION OF PIRACY:
WITH EXTRACTS FROM
THE JOURNAL OF JAMES BROOKE, ESQ., OF SARAWAK,
(Now Agent for the British Government in Borneo).
BY
CAPTAIN THE HON. HENRY KEPPEL, R. N.
NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
82 CLIFF STREET.
1846.
TO
THE EARL OF ALBEMARLE.
My dear Father,
You could scarcely have anticipated, from my profession, the dedication
of a book in testimony of my gratitude and affection; but, having had
the good fortune to acquire the friendship of Mr. James Brooke, and
to be intrusted by him with a narrative of his extraordinary career
in that part of the world where the services of the ship I commanded
were required, I am not without a hope that the accompanying pages
may be found worthy of your approval, and not altogether uninteresting
to my country.
I am, my dear father,
Your affectionate son,
Henry Keppel.
Droxford, January, 1846.
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
The visit of her majesty's ship Dido to Borneo, and her services
against the pirates, occupy comparatively so small a portion of this
volume, that some excuse may be necessary for its leading title.
It was only by undertaking to make the account of them part of the
narrative, that I could prevail upon my friend Mr. Brooke to intrust
me with his Journal for any public object; and when I looked at his
novel and important position as a ruler in Borneo, and was aware how
much of European curiosity was attached to it, I felt it impossible
not to consent to an arrangement which should enable me to trace the
remarkable career through which he had reached that elevation. I hope,
therefore, to be considered as having conquered my own disinclination
to be the relater of events in which I was concerned, in order to
overcome the scruples which he entertained against being the author
of the autobiographical sketch, embracing so singular a portion of
his life, which I have extracted from the rough notes confided to me.
That his diffidence in this respect was groundless will, I trust,
be apparent from these pages, however indifferently I may have
executed my unusual task, during a long homeward sea-voyage; and,
from the growing interest which has arisen throughout the country for
intelligence on the subject of Borneo and the adjacent archipelago,
I venture also to indulge the belief that the general information
will be deemed no unfit adjunct to the story of personal adventure.
ADVERTISEMENT TO THE SECOND EDITION.
The text of this edition has been carefully revised, and has undergone
numerous verbal alterations; some portions of it have been transposed,
and a few additions have been made to the work. [In the American
edition, a few pages of matter, of no interest to American readers,
have been omitted from the Appendix.]
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
The Chinese War having terminated, Captain Keppel in H.M.S. Dido
appointed to command of the Straits station.--Meeting with
Mr. Brooke.--Sketch of his life.--Mr. Brooke's outward voyage in the
Royalist.--Touch at Singapore.--Arrival off the coast of Borneo.--Land
at the island of Talang Talang.--Intercourse with the Bandar _Page_ 1
CHAPTER II.
Progress: observations.--Description of the coast of Borneo.--Account,
&c. of a Pangeran.--Arrival at Sarawak.--Meetings with Rajah Muda
Hassim, and conversations.--The Town.--Interchange of visits and
presents.--Excursion to Dyak tribes.--Resources and commercial
products 14
CHAPTER III.
Second Cruise: up the River Lunda.--The Sibnowan Dyaks.--Their
Town of Tungong.--Their Physical Proportions, and Words of their
Language.--Their Customs.--Skull-trophies.--Religious Ceremonies
and Opinions.--Their Ornaments.--Appearance of both Sexes.--Dress
and Morals.--Missionary Prospects of Conversion, and Elevation in
the Social Scale.--Government, Laws, and Punishments.--Dances.--Iron
Manufacturing.--Chinese Settlement.--Excursion continued 32
CHAPTER IV.
Renewed intercourse with the Rajah.--Prospects of
trade.--Ourang-outang, and other animals.--The two sorts of
mias.--Description of the Rajah, his suite, and Panglimas, &c.--The
character of the natives.--Leave Sarawak.--Songi Dyaks.--Visit Seriff
Sahib.--Buyat tongue.--Attack by pirates.--Sail for Singapore 45
CHAPTER V.
Summary of information obtained during this
visit to Borneo.--Geographical and topographical
observations.--Produce.--Various Dyak tribes.--Natural
history.--Language.--Origin of Races.--Sail from
Singapore.--Celebes.--Face of the country.--Waterfall 59
CHAPTER VI.
Dain Matara, the Bugis.--Excursions in Celebes.--Dispute
with the Rajah's son-in-law.--Baboon shot.--Appearance of the
country.--Visit the Resident.--Barometrical observations.--The
Bugis.--Geography.--Coral reefs.--Visit the Rana of
Lamatte.--Population and products of the country 72
CHAPTER VII.
Mr. Brooke's second visit to Sarawak.--The civil war.--Receives a
present of a Dyak boy.--Excursion to the seat of war.--Notices of
rivers, and settlements on their banks.--Deaths and burials.--Reasons
for and against remaining at Sarawak.--Dyak visitors.--Council of
war.--Why side with the Rajah.--Mode of constructing forts.--State
of enemy's and Rajah's forces.--Conduct of the war 87
CHAPTER VIII.
Appearance of the country.--Progress of the rebel war.--Character of
the Sow and Singe Dyaks.--Their belief in augury.--Ruinous effects of
protracted warfare.--Cowardice and boasting of the Malays.--Council
of war.--Refuse to attack the enemy's forts.--Rebels propose to
treat.--The Malays oppose.--Set out to attack the rebels, but
frustrated by our allies.--Assailed by the rebels.--Put them to
flight.--Treat with them.--They surrender.--Intercede with the Rajah
for their lives.--Renewed treachery of the Malays 100
CHAPTER IX.
Retrospect of Mr. Brooke's proceedings and prospects.--Visit of
a pirate fleet.--Intercourse with the chief leaders, and other
characteristic incidents.--War dances.--Use of opium.--Story of
Si Tundo.--Preparations for trading.--Conditions of the cession of
Sarawak 119
CHAPTER X.
Obstacles in the way of coming to a satisfactory conclusion with Muda
Hassim.--The law of force and reprisal considered.--Capabilities of
Sarawak.--Account of Sarebus and Sakarran pirates.--Excursion up the
river.--Visit to the Singe Dyaks.--Description of Mr. Brooke's house at
Sarawak.--Circumstances relating to the wreck off Borneo Proper 135
CHAPTER XI.
Return of the Royalist from Borneo Proper with intelligence of the
sufferers from the wreck of the Sultana.--Effect of the arrival
of the Diana on the negotiations for their release.--Outrage and
oppression of Macota.--Fate of the Sultana and her crew.--Mr. Brooke
made Rajah of Sarawak.--Liberation of rebel prisoners.--State of Dyak
tribes.--Court of justice opened.--Dyak burials, and respect for the
dead.--Malay cunning and treachery 151
CHAPTER XII.
Reflections on the new year.--The plundered village, and other
wrongs.--Means for their suppression.--The new government proceeds
to act.--The constitution.--Preparations for an expedition
against the Sea Dyaks.--Form of a treaty.--Wreck of the Viscount
Melbourne.--Administration of justice.--Difficulties and dangers.--Dyak
troubles.--Views and arrangements of the Chinese.--Judicial
forms.--Wrongs and sufferings of the Lundus 164
CHAPTER XIII.
Ascent of the left-hand river to the Stabad.--Remarkable cave in
the Tubbang.--Diamond works at Suntah.--Return.--Infested by Dyak
pirates.--A meeting of prahus, and fight.--Seriff Sahib's treatment of
the Suntah Dyaks.--Expedition against the Singe.--Their invasion of
the Sigos, and taking heads.--The triumph over these trophies.--Arms
and modes of war.--Hot and cold council-houses.--Ceremonies in the
installation of the Orang Kaya Steer Rajah.--Meeting of various Dyak
tribes.--Hostile plans of Seriff Sahib, and their issue.--Resolves
to proceed to Borneo Proper 183
CHAPTER XIV.
Visit of Captain Elliott.--Mr. Brooke sails for Borneo
Proper.--Arrival.--Visited by leading men.--Condition of
the country.--Reception by the Sultan.--Objects in view.--The
different chiefs, and communications with them.--The Sultan and
his Pangerans.--Objects of the visit accomplished.--Return to
Sarawak.--Ceremonies of the cession.--Sail for Singapore 199
CHAPTER XV.
Captain Keppel's voyage in the Dido with Mr. Brooke to Sarawak.--Chase
of three piratical prahus.--Boat expedition.--Action with the
pirates, and capture of a prahu.--Arrival at Sarawak.--Mr. Brooke's
reception.--Captain Keppel and his officers visit the Rajah.--The
palace and the audience.--Return royal visit to the Dido.--Mr. Brooke's
residence and household.--Dr. Treacher's adventure with one of the
ladies of Macota's harem.--Another boat affair with the pirates,
and death of their chief 213
CHAPTER XVI.
The Rajah's letter to Captain Keppel, and his reply.--Prepares for
an expedition against the Sarebus pirates.--Pleasure excursion up the
river.--The Chinese settlement.--The Singe mountain.--Interior of the
residences.--Dyak festival of Maugut.--Relics.--Sporting.--Return to
Sarawak.--The expedition against Sarebus.--State and number of the
assailing force.--Ascent of the river.--Beauty of the scenery 228
CHAPTER XVII.
Ascent of the river to Paddi.--Town taken and burnt.--Narrow
escape of a reinforcement of friendly Dyaks.--Night-attack by the
pirates.--Conference: they submit.--Proceed against Pakoo.--Dyak
treatment of dead enemies.--Destruction of Pakoo, and submission
of the pirates.--Advance upon Rembas.--The town destroyed: the
inhabitants yield.--Satisfactory effects of the expedition.--Death
of Dr. Simpson.--Triumphant return to Sarawak 242
CHAPTER XVIII.
Captain Keppel sails for China.--Calcutta.--The Dido ordered to
Borneo again.--Arrival at Sarawak.--Effect of her presence at
Sarawak.--Great improvements visible.--Atrocities of the Sakarran
pirates.--Mr. Brooke's letter.--Captain Sir E. Belcher's previous
visit to Sarawak in the Samarang.--Coal found.--Second letter from the
Rajah Muda Hassim.--Expedition against the Sakarran pirates.--Patusen
destroyed.--Macota remembered, and his retreat burnt.--Further
fighting, and advance.--Ludicrous midnight alarm 257
CHAPTER XIX.
Seriff Muller's town sacked.--Ascend the river in pursuit of
the enemy.--Gallant exploit of Lieutenant Wade.--His death and
funeral.--Interesting anecdote of him.--Ascend the Sakarran
branch.--Native boats hemmed in by pirates, and their crews
slaughtered to a man.--Karangan destroyed.--Captain Sir E. Belcher
arrives in the Samarang's boats.--Return to Sarawak.--New expedition
against Seriff Sahib and Jaffer.--Macota captured.--Flight of Seriff
Sahib.--Conferences.--Seriff Jaffer deposed.--Mr. Brooke's speech in
the native tongue.--End of the expedition, and return to Sarawak.--The
Dido sails for England 274
CHAPTER XX.
Later portion of Mr. Brooke's Journal.--Departure of Captain Keppel,
and arrival of Sir E. Belcher.--Mr. Brooke proceeds, with Muda
Hassim, in the Samarang to Borneo.--Labuan examined.--Returns to
Sarawak.--Visit of Lingire, a Sarebus chief.--The Dyaks of Tumma
and Bandar Cassim.--Meets an assembly of Malays and Dyaks.--Arrival
of Lingi, as a deputation from the Sakarran chiefs.--The Malay
character.--Excursion up the country.--Miserable effects of excess
in opium-smoking.--Picturesque situation of the Sow village of
Ra-at.--Nawang.--Feast at Ra-at.--Returns home.--Conferences with
Dyak chiefs 290
CHAPTER XXI.
Mr. Brooke's memorandum on the piracy of the Malayan Archipelago.--The
measures requisite for its suppression, and for the consequent
extension of British commerce in that important locality 302
CHAPTER XXII.
Arrival of Captain Bethune and Mr. Wise.--Mr. Brooke appointed
her Majesty's Agent in Borneo.--Sails for Borneo Proper.--Muda
Hassim's measures for the suppression of piracy.--Defied by
Seriff Houseman.--Audience of the Sultan, Muda Hassim, and the
Pangerans.--Visit to Labuan.--Comparative eligibility of Labuan and
Balambangan for settlement.--Coal discovered in Labuan.--Mr. Brooke
goes to Singapore and visits Admiral Sir T. Cochrane.--The
upas-tree.--Proceeds with the Admiral to Borneo Proper.--Punishment
of Pangeran Usop.--The battle of Malludu.--Seriff Houseman obliged
to fly.--Visit to Balambangan.--Mr. Brooke parts with the Admiral,
and goes to Borneo Proper.--An attempt of Pangeran Usop defeated.--His
flight, and pursuit by Pangeran Budrudeen.--Triumphant reception of
Mr. Brooke in Borneo.--Returns to Sarawak 314
CHAPTER XXIII.
Borneo, its geographical bounds and leading divisions.--British
settlements in 1775.--The province of Sarawak formally ceded by the
sultan in perpetuity to Mr. Brooke its present ruler.--General view
of the Dyaks, the aborigines of Borneo.--The Dyaks of Sarawak, and
adjoining tribes; their past oppression and present position 329
CHAPTER XXIV.
Proposed British settlement on the northwest coast of Borneo, and
occupation of the island of Labuan.--Governor Crawfurd's opinions
thereon 345
Concluding Observations 355
Postscript to Second Edition 359
APPENDIX.
I. Natural History. Mr. Brooke's report on the Mias 365
II. Philology 370
III. Proposed Exploring Expedition to the Asiatic Archipelago, by
James Brooke, Esq. 1838 373
IV. Sketch of Borneo, or Pulo Kalamantan, by J. Hunt, Esq. 381
V. Extracts from the late Mr. Williamson's Journal 409
EXPEDITION TO BORNEO.
CHAPTER I.
The Chinese War having terminated, Captain Keppel in H.M.S. Dido
appointed to command of the Straits station.--Meeting with
Mr. Brooke.--Sketch of his life.--Mr. Brooke's outward voyage
in the Royalist.--Touch at Singapore.--Arrival off the coast of
Borneo.--Land at the island of Talang Talang.--Intercourse with
the Bandar.
At the conclusion of the Chinese war, the commander-in-chief,
Vice-Admiral Sir William Parker, ordered the Dido to the Malacca
Straits, a station in which was included the island of Borneo;
our principal duties being the protection of trade, and suppression
of piracy.
In the month of March, 1843, while at Pinang, I received intimation
from the governor of various daring acts of piracy having been
committed near the Borneon coast on some vessels trading to
Singapore. I proceeded to that port; and, while undergoing a partial
refit, made the acquaintance of Mr. Brooke, who accepted my invitation
to return to Sarawak in the Dido; and I could not have visited Borneo
with a more agreeable or intelligent companion.
The objects of Mr. Brooke in leaving England, the reasons which induced
him to settle at Sarawak, and the circumstances which have led him to
take so deep an interest in promoting the civilization and improving
the condition of the singular people whom he has adopted, form indeed
a story very unlike the common course of events in modern times.
But before illustrating these circumstances from his own journals,
it may be acceptable to say a few words respecting the individual
himself, and his extraordinary career. I am indebted to a mutual
friend, acquainted with him from early years, for the following brief
but interesting outline of his life; and have only to premise, that
Mr. Brooke is the lineal representative of Sir Robert Vyner, baronet,
and lord mayor of London in the reign of Charles II.; Sir Robert had
but one child, a son, Sir George Vyner, who died childless, and his
estate passed to his heir-at-law, Edith, his father's eldest sister,
whose lineal descendant is our friend. Sir Robert was renowned for
his loyalty to his sovereign, to whom he devoted his wealth, and to
whose memory he raised a monument.
"Mr. Brooke was the second, and is now the only surviving son of the
late Thomas Brooke, Esq., of the civil service of the East India
Company; was born on the 29th April, 1803; went out to India as
a cadet, where he held advantageous situations, and distinguished
himself by his gallantry in the Burmese war. He was shot through
the body in an action with the Burmese, received the thanks of the
government, and returned to England for the recovery of his prostrated
strength. He resumed his station, but shortly afterward relinquished
the service, and in search of health and amusement left Calcutta for
China in 1830. In this voyage, while going up the China seas, he saw
for the first time the islands of the Asiatic Archipelago--islands
of vast importance and unparalleled beauty--lying neglected, and
almost unknown. He inquired and read, and became convinced that
Borneo and the Eastern Isles afforded an open field for enterprise
and research. To carry to the Malay races, so long the terror of the
European merchant-vessels, the blessings of civilization, to suppress
piracy, and extirpate the slave-trade, became his humane and generous
objects; and from that hour the energies of his powerful mind were
devoted to this one pursuit. Often foiled, often disappointed, but
animated with a perseverance and enthusiasm which defied all obstacle,
he was not until 1838 enabled to set sail from England on his darling
project. The intervening years had been devoted to preparation and
inquiry; a year spent in the Mediterranean had tested his vessel, the
Royalist, and his crew; and so completely had he studied his subject
and calculated on contingencies, that the least sanguine of his friends
felt as he left the shore, hazardous and unusual as the enterprise
appeared to be, that he had omitted nothing to insure a successful
issue. 'I go,' said he, 'to awake the spirit of slumbering philanthropy
with regard to these islands; to carry Sir Stamford Raffles' views
in Java over the whole archipelago. Fortune and life I give freely;
and if I fail in the attempt, I shall not have lived wholly in vain.'
"In the admiration I feel for him, I may farther be permitted to
add, that if any man ever possessed in himself the resources and
means by which such noble designs were to be achieved, that man was
James Brooke! Of the most enlarged views; truthful and generous;
quick to acquire and appreciate; excelling in every manly sport and
exercise; elegant and accomplished; ever accessible; and above all,
prompt and determined to redress injury and relieve misfortune, he
was of all others the best qualified to impress the native mind with
the highest opinion of the English character. How he has succeeded,
the influence he has acquired, and the benefits he has conferred,
his own uncolored narrative, contained in the following pages, best
declares, and impresses on the world a lasting lesson of the good
that attends individual enterprise, when well directed, of which
every Englishman may feel justly proud."
Such is the sketch of Mr. Brooke by one well competent to judge of
that to which he bears witness. In pursuance of the mission thus
eloquently and truly described, that gentleman left his native shores
in the year 1838, in his yacht the Royalist schooner, of 142 tons,
belonging to the Royal Yacht Squadron, with a crew of upward of twenty
men. His general views were distinct and certain; but the details
into which they shaped themselves have been so entirely guided by
unforeseen occurrences, that it is necessary to look to his first
visit to Borneo for their explanation; and in order to do so, I must
refer to his private journal, which he kindly confided to me, after I
had in vain tried to persuade him to take upon himself the publication
of its contents, so rich in new and interesting intelligence.
EXTRACTS FROM Mr. BROOKE'S JOURNAL.
"I had for some years turned my mind to the geography of the
Indian Archipelago, and cherished an ardent desire to become better
acquainted with a country combining the richest natural productions
with an unrivaled degree of luxuriant beauty. Circumstances for a
time prevented my entering on this field for enterprise and research;
and when the barriers were removed, I had many preparations to make
and some difficulties to overcome.
"In an expedition conducted by government, the line of discipline is
so distinctly understood, and its infringement so strictly punished,
that small hazard is incurred of any inconvenience arising from such
a source. With an individual, however, there is no such assurance,
for he cannot appeal to the articles of war; and the ordinary legal
enactments for the protection of the mariner will not enable him to
effect objects so far removed beyond the scope of the laws. I was
fully aware that many would go, but that few might stay; for while a
voyage of discovery _in prospectu_ possesses great attractions for the
imagination, the hardship, danger, and thousand other rude realities,
soon dissipate the illusion, and leave the aspirant longing for that
home he should never have quitted. In like manner, seamen can be
procured in abundance, but cannot be kept from desertion whenever any
matter goes wrong; and the total previous ignorance of their characters
and dispositions renders this more likely, as the admission of one
'black sheep' goes far to taint the entire crew.
"These considerations fully convinced me that it was necessary to
form _men_ to my purpose, and, by a line of steady and kind conduct,
to raise up a personal regard for myself and attachment for the
vessel, which could not be expected in ordinary cases. In pursuance
of this object, I was nearly three years in preparing a crew to my
mind, and gradually moulding them to consider the hardest fate or
misfortune under my command as better than the ordinary service in a
merchant-vessel. How far I have succeeded remains yet to be proved;
but I cannot help hoping that I have raised the character of many,
and have rendered all happy and contented since they have been with
me; and certain am I that no men can do their duty more cheerfully
or willingly than the crew of the Royalist.
"I may pass over in silence my motives for undertaking so long and
arduous a voyage; and it will be sufficient to say, that I have been
firmly convinced of its beneficial tendency in adding to knowledge,
increasing trade, and spreading Christianity. The prospectus
of the undertaking was published in the _Geographical Journal_,
vol. viii. part iii., of 1838, when my preparations for sea were
nearly complete. I had previously avoided making any public mention
of my intentions, for praise before performance is disgusting; and
I knew I should be exposed to prying curiosity, desirous of knowing
what I did not know myself.
"On the 27th October, 1838, the Royalist left the river; and, after
a succession of heavy gales, finally quitted the land on the 16th
December. I may here state some farther particulars, to enable my
readers to become better acquainted with her and her equipment. The
Royalist, as already noticed, belonged to the Royal Yacht Squadron,
which in foreign ports admits her to the same privileges as a
man-of-war, and enables her to carry a white ensign. She sails fast,
is conveniently fitted up, is armed with six six-pounders, a number
of swivels, and small arms of all sorts, carries four boats, and
provisions for four months. Her principal defect is being too sharp
in the floor, which, in case of taking the ground, greatly increases
the risk; but I comfort myself with the reflection that a knowledge of
this will lead to redoubled precaution to prevent such a disaster. She
is withal a good sea-boat, and as well calculated for the service as
could be desired.
"Most of her hands had been with me for three years or upward,
and the rest were highly recommended. They are, almost without
exception, young, able-bodied, and active--fit in all respects for
enduring hardship and privation, or the more dangerous reverse of
self-indulgence, and willing to follow the fortunes of the Royalist and
her commander through all the various shades of good or evil fortune
which may betide. A fine, though slow passage took us to Rio Janeiro,
which presents features of natural beauty rarely equaled. The weather
during our stay was hot in the extreme, and very wet, which marred,
in some degree, the satisfaction I should otherwise have enjoyed in
wandering about this picturesque country. I passed ten days, however,
very agreeably, and departed with some regret from this brief visit to
America and from my friends (if they will so allow me to call them)
on board H.M.S. Calliope. I must not omit to mention that, during my
stay, I visited a slaver, three of which (prizes to our men-of-war)
lay in the harbor. It is a most loathsome and disgusting sight. Men,
women, and children--the aged and the infant--crowded into a space as
confined as the pens in Smithfield, not, however, to be released by
death at the close of the day, but to linger, diseased and festering,
for weeks or months, and then to be discharged into perpetual and
hopeless slavery. I wish I could say that our measures tended toward
the abolition of this detestable traffic; but from all that I could
learn and observe, I am forced to confess that the exertions made to
abolish slavery are of no avail in this country, and never will be
till harsher means are resorted to.
"There are points of view in which this traffic wears a more cheering
aspect; for any one comparing the puny Portuguese or the bastard
Brazilian with the athletic negro, cannot but allow that the ordinary
changes and chances of time will place this fine country in the hands
of the latter race. The negro will be fit to cultivate the soil, and
will thrive beneath the tropical sun of the Brazils. The enfeebled
white man grows more enfeebled and more degenerate with each succeeding
generation, and languishes in a clime which nature never designed him
to inhabit. The time will come when the debased and suffering negroes
shall possess this fertile land, and when some share of justice shall
be awarded to their cheerful tempers and ardent minds.
"Quitting Rio on the 9th, we cruised for a day or two with
H.M.S. Calliope and Grecian; and on the 11th, parting company,
prosecuted our voyage for the Cape of Good Hope."
The next notice runs thus:--"The aspect of Tristan d'Acunha is bold
even to grandeur. The peak, towering upward of eight thousand feet
above the sea, is inferior only to Teneriffe, and the precipitous
cliffs overhanging the beach are a fitting base for such a mountain. I
regretted not being able to examine this island for many reasons, but
principally, perhaps, on account of the birds of the South Atlantic
I had hoped to collect there, many of which are so often seen by
voyagers, yet so little known and so vaguely described.
"On the 29th March, after being detained a fortnight [at the Cape of
Good Hope] by such weather as no one could regret, we sailed again
in a southeaster, and after a passage of six weeks reached Java Head.
"I had been suffering for some time under a severe indisposition,
and consequently hailed the termination of our voyage with double
satisfaction, for I greatly required rest and quiet--two things
impossible to be had on ship-board. From Java Head we glided slowly
through Prince's Strait, and coasting along the island, dropped our
anchor in Anjer Roads. The scenery of this coast is extremely lovely,
and comprises every feature which can heighten the picturesque; noble
mountains, a lake-like sea, and deeply indented coast-line, rocks,
islets, and, above all, a vegetation so luxuriant that the eye never
wearies with gazing on its matchless tints. Anjer combines all these
beauties, and possesses the incalculable advantage of being within a
moderate ride of the refreshing coolness of the hills. We here procured
water and provisions in abundance, being daily visited by crowds of
canoes filled with necessaries or curiosities. Fowls, eggs, yams,
cocoa-nuts, and sweet potatoes, were mixed with monkeys of various
sorts, paroquets, squirrels, shells, and similar temptations on the
stranger's purse or wardrobe. Great was the bartering for old clothes,
handkerchiefs, and hats; and great the number of useless and noisy
animals we received in exchange. Great, too, was the merriment aboard,
and the excitement when the canoes first came. The transition from
the monotony of a sea-life to the loquacious bustle of barter with
a half-civilized people is so sudden, that the mind at once feels in
a strange land, and the commonest productions proclaim the luxuriant
climes of the tropics. Until this impression is made, we hardly know
why we have been sailing onward for four months past, so quiet and
unvarying is the daily tenor of a life aboard ship.
"_1st June, Singapore._--On reaching Singapore I was most hospitably
received by the kind inhabitants, and took up my abode with
Mr. Scott. The quiet and repose of my present life, the gentle ride
in the cool of the morning and evening drive after an early dinner,
are already restoring my shattered strength, and I trust soon to be
enabled to prosecute my farther undertaking. In the mean time the
Royalist is undergoing a refit after her passage, and, like her owner,
is daily improving in good looks.
"I could say much of Singapore, for it is the pivot of the liberal
system in the Archipelago, and owes its prosperity to the enlightened
measures of Sir Stamford Raffles. The situation is happily chosen,
the climate healthy, the commerce unshackled, and taxation light; and
these advantages have attracted the vessels of all the neighboring
nations to bring their produce to this market in order to exchange
it for the manufactures of England.
"The extent of the island is about 27 miles by 11 broad. The town
of Singapore stands on the south side, facing the shores of Battam,
and is intersected by a salt-water stream, which separates the native
town from the pleasant residences of the European inhabitants; the
latter stretch along the beach, and cover a space which extends to the
foot of a slight eminence, on which stands the governor's house. Off
the town lie the shipping of various countries, presenting a most
picturesque and striking appearance. The man-of-war, the steamer,
and the merchant-vessels of the civilized world, contrast with the
huge, misshapen, and bedizened arks of China! The awkward prahus
of the Bugis are surrounded by the light boats of the island. The
semi-civilized Cochin-Chinese, with their vessels of antiquated
European construction, deserve attention from this important step
toward improvement; and the rude prahus of some parts of Borneo claim
it from their exhibiting the early dawn of maritime adventure.
"_27th July._--After various causes of delay I sailed on this day from
Singapore. When I contrast my state of health at my arrival with what
it now is, I may well be thankful for the improvement. Every kindness
and hospitality has been shown me.
"On Saturday at noon we got under weigh with a light breeze, and
stood down the Strait on our way to Borneo.
"_28th._--In the morning we were well out in the China Sea, running
six knots per hour, N. 3/4 E. Lines of discolored water were seen
about us, and about 11 A.M. we entered a field some two miles long
and 400 yards wide. The consistence of this dirty mass was that of
pea-soup, which it likewise resembled in color; and I doubt not the
white water of the China Sea (vide _Nautical Magazine_) is referable
to this appearance seen in the night, as may the report of rocks,
&c. The Malays on board called it 'sara,' and declared it to come from
the rivers. On examination it appeared, when magnified, somewhat like
a grain of barley or corn. The particles were extremely minute, soft,
and, when rubbed between the fingers, emitted a strong smell like
paint-oil; a potent odor arose while passing through the thick patch.
"It may not be superfluous to recount here the preparations I have
made for this trip to Borneo, or my intentions when I get there. Borneo
Proper, once the seat of piracy, which few vessels could approach with
safety, is now under the sway of the Rajah Muda Hassim. The character
given this rajah by many persons who know and have traded with him is
good, and he is spoken of as generous and humane, and greatly inclined
to the English. These reasons have induced me to abandon my intention
of proceeding direct to Malludu Bay, and during the season of the
southwest monsoon to confine myself principally to the northwest
coast. Muda Hassim being at present reported to be at Sarawak, I
propose, after taking a running sketch of the coast from Tanjong Api,
to enter the river of that name, and proceed as far as the town.
"I believe I have availed myself of every means within my reach
to render my visit agreeable to the rajah. I carry with me many
presents which are reported to be to his liking; gaudy silks of
Surat, scarlet cloth, stamped velvet, gunpowder, &c., beside a large
quantity of confectionery and sweets, such as preserved ginger, jams,
dates, syrups, and to wind up all, a huge box of China toys for his
children! I have likewise taken coarse nankeen to the amount of 100_l._
value, as the best circulating medium in the country. Beside the
above mentioned preparations, I carry letters from the government of
Singapore, to state, as far as can be done, the objects of my voyage,
and to caution the rajah to take every care of my safety and that
of my men. The Board of Commerce have at the same time entrusted me
with a letter and present to him, to thank him for his humanity to
the crew of an English vessel wrecked on this coast. The story, as
I had it from the parties shipwrecked, is highly creditable to his
humanity. The vessel, called the Napoleon, was wrecked on the bar of
Sarawak river in the northeast monsoon. The people were saved with
difficulty, and remained in the jungle, where they were after a time
discovered by some Malays. Muda Hassim, on receiving intelligence of
this, sent down and brought them to his town, collected all that he
could recover from the wreck, clothed them handsomely, and fed them
well for several months, and, on an opportunity arriving, sent them
back to Singapore free of expense.
"At the same time, however, that I have prepared to meet the natives
as friends, I have not neglected to strengthen my crew, in case I
should find them hostile. Eight stout men of the Ourang Laut, or men of
the sea (Malays), have been added to the force. They are an athletic
race, cheerful and willing; and though not seaman in our sense of the
term, yet well calculated for this expedition. They pull a good oar,
and are invaluable in saving the Europeans the exposure consequent
to wooding and watering. They possess, likewise, the knowledge of
the jungle and its resources, and two of them have before been to
Sarawak and along the coast. Beside these, a young gentleman named
Williamson accompanies me as interpreter; and I have fortunately met
with a medical gentleman, Mr. Westermann, a Dane, who is surgeon for
this voyage, Mr. Williams having left me at Singapore. With these
arrangements I look without apprehension to the power of the Malays;
and without relaxing in measures of the strictest vigilance, I shall
never sleep less soundly when it comes to my turn so to do.
"_August 1st._--I am, then, at length, anchored off the coast of
Borneo! not under very pleasant circumstances, for the night is pitchy
dark, with thunder, lightning, rain, and squalls of wind.
"_2d._--Squally bad night. This morning, the clouds clearing away, was
delightful, and offered for our view the majestic scenery of Borneo. At
nine got under weigh, and ran in on an east-by-south course 4 1/2 or
5 miles toward Tanjong Api. Came to an anchor about five miles from
the land, and dispatched the boat to take sights ashore, in order to
form a base-line for triangulation. The scenery may really be called
majestic. The low and wooded coast about Tanjong Api is backed by
a mountain called Gunong [1] Palo, some 2000 feet in height, which
slopes down behind the point and terminates in a number of hummocks,
showing from a distance like islands.
"The coast, unknown, and represented to abound in shoals and reefs, is
the harbor for pirates of every description. Here, every man's hand is
raised against his brother man; and here sometimes the climate wars
upon the excitable European, and lays many a white face and gallant
heart low on the distant strand.
"_3d._--Beating between Points Api and Datu. The bay, as far as we
have seen, is free from danger; the beach is lined by a feathery row
of beautiful casuarinas, and behind is a tangled jungle, without fine
timber; game is plentiful, from the traces we saw on the sand; hogs in
great numbers, troops of monkeys, and the print of an animal with cleft
hoofs, either a large deer, tapir, or cow. We saw no game save a tribe
of monkeys, one of which, a female, I shot, and another quite young,
which we managed to capture alive. The captive, though the young of
the black monkey, is grayish, with the exception of his extremities,
and a stripe of black down his back and tail. Though very young, he
has already taken food, and we have some hope of preserving his life.
"We witnessed, at the same time, an extraordinary and fatal leap
made by one of these monkeys. Alarmed by our approach, he sprang
from the summit of a high tree at the branch of one lower, and at
some distance. He leaped short, and came clattering down some sixty
or seventy feet amid the jungle. We were unable to penetrate to the
spot on account of a deep swamp to ascertain his fate.
"A rivulet flows into the sea not far from where we landed; the water
is sweet, and of that clear brown color so common in Ireland. This
coast is evidently the haunt of native prahus, whether piratical or
other. Prints of men's feet were numerous and fresh, and traces of
huts, fires, and parts of boats, some of them ornamented after their
rude fashion. A long pull of five miles closed the day.
"_Sunday, 4th._--Performed divine service myself! manfully overcoming
that horror which I have to the sound of my own voice before an
audience. In the evening landed again more to the westward. Shore
skirted by rocks; timber noble, and the forest clear of brushwood,
enabling us to penetrate with ease as far as caution permitted. Traces
of wild beasts numerous and recent, but none discovered. Fresh-water
streams, colored as yesterday, and the trail of an alligator from
one of them to the sea. This dark forest, where the trees shoot up
straight and tall, and are succeeded by generation after generation
varying in stature, but struggling upward, strikes the imagination
with pictures trite yet true. Here the hoary sage of a hundred years
lies moldering beneath your foot, and there the young sapling shoots
beneath the parent shade, and grows in form and fashion like the
parent stem. The towering few, with heads raised above the general
mass, can scarce be seen through the foliage of those beneath; but
here and there the touch of time has cast his withering hand upon
their leafy brow, and decay has begun his work upon the gigantic and
unbending trunk. How trite and yet how true! It was thus I meditated
in my walk. The foot of European, I said, has never touched where
my foot now presses--seldom the native wanders here. Here I indeed
behold nature fresh from the bosom of creation, unchanged by man, and
stamped with the same impress she originally bore! Here I behold God's
design when He formed this tropical land, and left its culture and
improvement to the agency of man. The Creator's gift as yet neglected
by the creature; and yet the time may be confidently looked for when
the axe shall level the forest, and the plow turn the ground.
"_6th._--Made sail this morning, and stood in for an island called
Talang Talang, anchoring about eight miles distant, and sending a
boat to take correct observations for a base-line.
"Our party found Malays of Sarawak on the island, who were civil
to them, and offered to conduct us up to-morrow, if we wanted their
assistance. The pirates, both Illanuns and Dyaks, have been gone from
the bay but a few days; the former seaward, the latter up the rivers.
"_7th._--Morning calm. In the afternoon got under weigh, and anchored
again near the island of Talang Talang; the smaller one a conical
hill bearing south. The Bandar [2] of the place came off in his canoe
to make us welcome. He is a young man sent by Rajah Muda Hassim to
collect turtles' eggs, which abound in this vicinity, especially
on the larger island. The turtles are never molested, for fear of
their deserting the spot; and their eggs, to the amount of five or
six thousand, are collected every morning and forwarded at intervals
to Sarawak as articles of food.
"Our visitor was extremely polite, and, in common with other Asiatics,
possessed the most pleasing and easy manners. He assured us of a
welcome from his rajah, and, in their usual phrase, expressed himself
that the rajah's heart would dilate in his bosom at the sight of
us. His dress consisted of trowsers of green cloth, a dark green
velvet jacket, and his sarong round his waist, thrown gracefully
over two krisses, which he wore at his girdle. His attendants were
poorly attired, and mostly unarmed--a proof of confidence in us, and
a desire to assure us of his own friendly intentions. I treated him
with sweetmeats and syrup, and of his own accord he took a glass of
sherry, as did his chief attendant. On his departure he was presented
with three yards of red cloth, and subsequently with a little tea
and gunpowder."
CHAPTER II.
Progress: observations.--Description of the coast of
Borneo.--Account, &c. of a Pangeran.--Arrival at Sarawak.--Meetings
with Rajah Muda Hassim, and conversations.--The Town.--Interchange
of visits and presents--Excursion to Dyak tribes.--Resources and
commercial products.
I Resume Mr. Brooke's Journal, which requires no introductory remark.
"_Aug. 8th._--A cloudy day, preventing us from taking our wished-for
observations. I made a boat-excursion round the two islands. The north
one is somewhat the larger; the southern one, running north and south,
consists of two hills joined by a low and narrow neck of land. The
water between these islands is deep, varying from seven to six fathoms;
but between the smaller one and the main there are rocks and reefs;
and though a passage may exist, it would not be advisable for a vessel
to try it. These two small islands possess all the characteristic
beauties of the clime. Formed of brown granite, with a speck of
white sandy beach, and rising into hills covered with the noblest
timber, wreathed with gigantic creepers. Cream-colored pigeons flit
from tree to tree, and an eagle or two soared aloft watching their
motions. Frigate-birds are numerous; and several sorts of smaller
birds in the bush, difficult to get at. A small species of crocodile,
or alligator, was likewise seen: but we were not fortunate enough
to shoot one. The natives, when asked whether they were alligators,
answered in the negative, calling them crocodiles. The tides appear
to be as irregular as tides usually are in a deep bay. The rise and
fall of the tide is about fifteen feet.
"_9th._--After breakfast this morning took our sights, and at twelve
o'clock the latitude of the smaller Talang Talang and the ship for
a base-line. We yesterday took the same base-line by sound, firing
alternately three guns from the vessel and three from the shore.
"_10th._--A squall from the northward brought in a chopping sea in
the morning. We were favored with a visit from another native party,
but the chief was in every respect inferior to our first acquaintance,
Bandar Dowat.
"_11th Sunday._--Got under weigh early, after a night of torrents of
rain. The breeze being directly out of Lundu river, I stood as near
it as I could, and then bore away for Santobong, in order to reach
Sarawak. From Gunong Gading the coast gradually declines, and forms
two points. The first of these is Tanjong Bloungei, near which, on the
right hand, runs a small river, of the same name. The next point is
Tanjong Datu, which shows prominently from most parts of the bay. From
Tanjong Datu the coast recedes into a bay, and again forms a low point,
which I have christened Tanjong Lundu. The river Lundu disembogues
itself into the bay just beyond the point of the same name; and the
land on its far bank forms a bight of considerable depth. The Lundu is
a barred river with but little water; though, judging from the opening,
it is by no means small. Our pilots inform me at the same time,
however, that within the bar there is considerable depth of water.
"From the Sungei Lundu the land rises behind a wooded beach. The first
hill, which may be said to form the larboard entrance of the river,
is peaked, and called Sumpudin, and near it is a barred river of the
same name. This range of high land runs some distance; and near its
termination is the river Tamburgan. The low coast runs into another
bight; and the first opening after the termination of the high land is
the mouth of the river Seboo. Then comes another river; after which
the land rises into hills, gradually larger, till they terminate in
a round-topped hill, which forms the starboard entrance (going in)
of the Sarawak river.
"This river discharges itself at the east corner of the bay; and its
locality is easily recognized by the highest peak of Santobong, which
towers over its left bank, close to the entrance. A ship rounding Datu
will readily perceive the high land of Santobong, showing like a large
island, with another smaller island at its northern extremity. Both
these, however, are attached to the main: and the northernmost point,
called Tanjong Sipang, is distinguished by two peaks, like horns, one
small, the other larger. Steer from Datu a direct course toward this
high land, and when within a mile and a half or two miles of the shore,
haul in along the land, as there is a sand nearly dry at low water on
the starboard hand, stretching from the shore to the Saddle island,
or Pulo Satang. The leading mark to clear this sand is to bring the
hollow formed between the round hill at the right entrance of the
Sarawak river and the next hill a-head, and as you approach the river's
mouth, steer for a small island close to the shore, called Pulo Karra,
or Monkey Island. These marks will conduct you over a shoal with 1/4
three, the least depth at high water; you will then deepen your water,
and keep away for the low green point on the far side of the river,
edging gradually in; and when you are some distance from the opposite
low point on the port hand, cross the bar in three fathom (high water)
nearly in the center of the river. You must not, however, encroach on
the larboard side. The bar is narrow, and just within is 7 and 7 1/2
fathom, where we are at present anchored. The scenery is noble. On our
left hand is the peak of Santobong, clothed in verdure nearly to the
top; at his foot a luxuriant vegetation, fringed with the casuarina,
and terminating in a beach of white sand. The right bank of the river
is low, covered with pale green mangroves, with the round hill above
mentioned just behind it. Santobong peak is 2050 feet, or thereabouts,
by a rough trigonometrical measurement.
"_12th._--Lay at anchor; took angles and observations, and shot in
the evening without any success. There is a fine species of large
pigeon of a gray color I was desirous of getting, but they were too
cunning. Plenty of wild hogs were seen, but as shy as though they
had been fired at all their lives. When the flood made, dispatched
my gig for Sarawak, in order to acquaint the rajah of my arrival.
"_13th._--Got under weigh, and in the second reach met our gig
returning, followed by a large canoe, with a Pangeran of note to
welcome us. We gave him a salute of five guns; while he, on his part,
assured us of his rajah's pleasure at our arrival, and his own desire
to be of service. With the Pangeran Oula Deen (or Illudeen, anglice
Aladdin), came the rajah's chief writer, his shroff, a renegade Parsee,
a war-captain, and some others, beside a score of followers. They
made themselves much at home, ate and drank (the less scrupulous
took wine), and conversed with ease and liveliness. No difference
can be more marked than between the Hindoostani and the Malay. The
former, though more self-possessed and polished, shows a constraint
in manners and conversation, and you feel that his training has made
him an artificial character. The Malay, on the contrary, concealing as
well the feelings upper-most in his mind, is lively and intelligent,
and his conversation is not confined to a dull routine of unmeaning
compliments.
"_August 13th._--The Pangeran spoke to me of some ship-captain who
was notoriously cruel to his Lascars, and insolent in his language
to the Malays. He was murdered by his crew, and the circumstance was
related to me as though I was to approve the act! 'No Malay of Borneo
(added the Pangeran) would injure a European, were he well treated, and
in a manner suitable to his rank.' And I am sure such a declaration,
in a limited sense, is consonant with all known principles of human
nature, and the action of the passions and feelings.
"Our Pangeran was quite the gentleman, and a manly gentleman too. His
dress was a black velvet jacket, trimmed with gold lace, and trowsers
of green cloth, with a red sarong and kris. He was the only one of
the party armed while aboard. The rest were good, quiet men, and one
or two of them very intelligent. They took their leave of us to get
back to the town at sunset; but the ebb making, returned and stayed
until twelve at night, when the tide turned in their favor. We had
some difficulty in providing beds. The Pangeran slept in my cabin,
and the rest were distributed about on couches or carpets.
"_August 14th._--Got under weigh with the flood, and, favored by a
light breeze, proceeded up the river nearly as far as the town. From
the ignorance of the pilots, however, we grounded on a rock in the
middle of the river in 1 1/2 fathom water, and it took us an hour
to heave the vessel off by the stern. Had the tide been falling, we
should have been in a critical situation, as the rock is dry at low
water; but as it was, we received no damage. Shortly after getting
off, several boats with assistance came from the place, dispatched
in haste by the rajah. The intention was kind, though we needed not
the aid. Being dark, we dropped anchor in 5 1/2 fathom, about 1 1/2
mile from the town.
"_15th._--Anchored abreast of Sarawak at seven, and saluted the rajah
with twenty-one guns, which were returned with eighteen from his
residence. The rajah's own brother, Pangeran Mahammed, then saluted
the vessel with seven guns, which were returned. Having breakfasted,
and previously intimated our intention, we pulled ashore to visit the
great man. He received us in state, seated in his hall of audience,
which outside is nothing but a large shed, erected on piles, but
within decorated with taste. Chairs were placed on each side of the
ruler, who occupied the head seat. Our party were placed on one hand;
on the other sat his brother Mahammed, and Macota and some others of
his principal chiefs, while immediately behind him his twelve younger
brothers were seated.
"The dress of Muda Hassim was simple, but of rich material; and most
of the principal men were well, and even superbly, dressed. His
countenance is plain, but intelligent and highly pleasing, and
his manners perfectly elegant and easy. His reception was kind,
and, I am given to understand, highly flattering. We sat, however,
trammeled with the formality of state, and our conversation did not
extend beyond kind inquiries and professions of friendship. We were
presented with tobacco rolled up in a leaf, each about a foot long,
and tea was served by attendants on their knees. A band played wild and
not unmusical airs during the interview, and the crowd of attendants
who surrounded us were seated in respectful silence. After a visit
of half an hour, we rose and took our leave.
"Sarawak is but an occasional residence of the Rajah Muda Hassim,
and he is now detained here by a rebellion in the interior. On my
inquiring whether _the war_ proceeded favorably, he replied that there
was _no war_, but merely _some child's play among his subjects_. From
what I hear, however, from other quarters, it is more serious than he
represents it; and hints have been thrown out that the rajah wishes
me to stay here _as a demonstration_ to intimidate the rebels. We
shall see.
"The town consists of a collection of mud huts erected on piles, and
may contain about 1500 persons. The residences of the rajah and his
fourteen brothers occupy the greater part, and their followers are
the great majority of the population. When they depart for Borneo (or
Bruni), the remainder must be a very small population, and apparently
very poor. The river affords a few fish; but there is little sign
of cultivation either of rice or other grain. Fowls and goats seem
the only other means of subsistence of these people. The geological
features of the country are easily described. Vast masses of granite
rock are scattered along the coast; for instance, Gunong Poe, Gading,
Santobong, &c. &c., which have evidently at some former period been
detached islands. The spaces between these granite masses is now filled
in with alluvial soil, intersected in every direction with rivers and
streams, and on the low alluvial bank of the Sarawak river stands this
little town. The distance from the sea is about twenty-five miles,
through banks of mangrove and the Nepa palm, until approaching the
town, where some jungle-trees first appear. The breadth is about 100
yards, and the depth six fathoms at low water spring-tides in mid
river opposite the rajah's residence. In some places below, the river
is narrower, and the depths considerable, varying from three to seven
fathoms. The prominent points, however, are shallow, and the rocks
below the town lie on the starboard hand coming up just as the first
houses appear in sight. The larboard hand should then be kept close
aboard. Some other rocks are likewise reported; and in ascending the
stream, though it be generally clear, a vessel _with_ or without a
pilot should have a boat a-head sounding. In the evening I went ashore
suddenly to pay a visit to the rajah, in order, if possible, to break
through the bonds of formality. The great man soon made his appearance,
and received us very well. We talked much of the state of his country
and of ours; but he was very guarded when I spoke of the Dutch. 'He
had no dealings whatever (he said) with them, and never allowed their
vessels to come here, and therefore could not say what they were
like.' We sat in easy and unreserved converse, out of hearing of the
rest of the circle. He expressed great kindness to the English nation;
and begged me to tell him _really_ which was the most powerful nation,
England or Holland, or, as he significantly expressed it, which is the
'cat, and which the rat?' I assured him that England was the mouser,
though in this country Holland had most territory. We took our leave
after he had intimated his intention of visiting us to-morrow morning.
"_16th._--We were ready to receive the rajah after breakfast; but these
affairs of state are not so easily managed. There came two diplomatists
on board to know, in the first place, how many guns we intended to
salute with, and, in the second, whether I would go ashore in my gig,
in order to fetch the chief and his brother off. The latter request
I might have refused, and in a diplomatic light it was inadmissible;
but I readily conceded it, because, in the first place, it was less
troublesome than a refusal; and, in the next, I cared not to bandy
paltry etiquets with a semi-savage; and whatever pride might whisper,
I could not, as an individual traveler, refuse an acknowledgment
of the supremacy of a native prince. I went accordingly. The great
man came on board, and we treated him with every distinction and
respect. Much barbaric state was maintained as he quitted his own
residence. His sword of state with a gold scabbard, his war-shield,
jewel-hilted kris, and flowing _horse_-tails, were separately carried
by the grand officers of state. Bursts of wild music announced his
exit. His fourteen brothers and principal Pangerans surrounded him,
and a number (formidable on the deck of a vessel) covered the rear. He
stayed two hours and a half; ate and drank, and talked with great
familiarity; till the oppressive heat of the crowded cabin caused
me to wish them all to another place. However, he departed at last,
under a salute of twenty-one guns; and the fatigues of the day were
satisfactorily brought to a close. I afterward sent the rajah the
presents I had brought for him, consisting of a silk sarong, some
yards of red cloth and velvet, a pocket-pistol, scissors and knives,
with tea, biscuits, sweetmeats, China playthings, &c. &c. A person
coming here should be provided with a few articles of small importance
to satisfy the crowd of inferior chiefs. Soap, small parcels of tea,
lucifers, writing-paper, a large stock of cigars, biscuits, and knives,
are the best; for, without being great beggars, they seem greatly
to value these trifles, even in the smallest quantity. The higher
class inquired frequently for scents; and for the great men I know no
present which would be more acceptable than a small pier-glass. All
ranks seemed greatly pleased with those aboard; and some of the lower
orders, quite ignorant of the reflection, were continually laughing,
moving, sitting, and rising, to observe the corresponding effect.
"_18th._--In the morning I intimated my intention of paying a visit to
the Pangeran Muda Mahammed; and being apprised of his readiness to see
us, I went ashore to his house. He was not, however, in the room to
receive us; nor, indeed, was I much surprised at this slight, for he
is a sulky-looking, ill-favored savage, with a debauched appearance,
and wanting in the intelligence of his brother the rajah. I seated
myself, however, and remained some time; but the delay exceeding
what I considered the utmost limit of due forbearance, I expressed
to the Pangeran Macota my regret that his compeer was not ready to
receive me, adding that, as I was not accustomed to be kept waiting,
I would return to my vessel. I spoke in the quietest tone imaginable,
rose from my seat, and moved away; but the assembled Pangerans, rising
likewise, assured me it was a mistake; that he was not yet dressed,
and would greatly regret it himself. I repeated that when I visited the
rajah, he received me in the hall. While this brief discussion passed,
the culprit Muda Mahammed appeared and apologized for his remissness,
assuring me that the error was his attendants', who told him I was not
coming for an hour. The excuse of course passed current, though false,
as excuses generally are. I vindicated my independence, not until it
was necessary; and I am well aware that any endeavor of a native to
commit an indirect rudeness, if met with firmness and gentleness,
always recoils on his own head. The routine of the visit resembled
our last--tea, cigars, complimentary conversation and departure. The
Pangeran afterward sent me a present of fowls and goats, and I was
right glad to have it over. Muda Mahammed is the 'own' brother to Muda
Hassim, and next in rank here. As yet I had not made any request to the
rajah to allow me to visit various parts of his country; but thinking
the time to do so was come (the ceremonial of arrival being past),
I sent Mr. Williamson, my interpreter, to express my wish to travel
to some of the Malay towns and into the country of the Dyaks. The
latter request I fully expected, would be evaded, and was therefore
the more pleased when an answer came giving a cheerful consent to my
going among the Dyaks of Lundu, and visiting the towns of Sadung,
Samarahan, &c. At the same time the rajah informed me, that if I
went up the river, he could not be answerable for my safety, as the
rebels were not far distant, and constantly on the watch. Sarebus,
another large Dyak town, he advised me not to visit, as they were
inimical to his government, and a skirmish had lately taken place
between them and some of his subjects.
"_18th, Sunday._--Performed service. In the evening walked ashore,
but the jungle was wet after rain. Every day or night since arriving
it has rained, sometimes in torrents, at others in showers, and the
sky has been so obscured that no observations can be obtained. The
thermometer never ranges above 81 deg., and sometimes stands at 59 deg..
"At twelve at night we were surprised by a boat sent from the rajah,
to say he was taken ill, and wanted some physic. We dispatched our
surgeon, but it was found impossible to admit him into the sacred
precincts of the seraglio, and he returned with the information that
the rajah was asleep.
"_21st._--Our fleet were in readiness before daylight, and by five
o'clock we left Kuching, [3] and dropped down the river. The Pangeran
Illudeen and the Panglima, both in prahus, accompanied us, and with
our long-boat (the Skimalong) formed quite a gay procession. The prahu
of the Pangeran pulled twelve paddles, mounted two brass swivels, and
in all had a crew of about twenty men. The Panglima's boat likewise
carried a gun, and had about ten men; while the Skimalong mounted
an iron swivel, and carried six Englishmen and one of our Singapore
Malays. With this equipment we might be pronounced far superior to
any force of the rajah's enemies we were likely to meet.
"We passed from the Sarawak river into the Morotaba. At the junction
of the two streams the Morotaba is narrow; but at no great distance,
where it meets the Quop, it becomes wider, and in some places more
than half a mile across.
"The river Quop is a fine stream, fully, as far as I could see,
as broad as the Morotaba or Sarawak. Beyond the junction of the
Quop and Morotaba the latter river divides into two branches--the
left-hand one, running to the sea, retains the name of Morotaba,
while the right is called Riam.
"The Riam is a fine stream; at its junction with the Morotaba it
takes that name, as the Morotaba does that of Sarawak where they
join. Low mangrove or Nepa palm banks characterize these streams;
and occasionally slight eminences, with timber, are to be seen. The
highest hill is about 3000 feet high, called Matang, and is at the
point of junction between the Morotaba and Riam.
"The next river on the starboard hand is the Tanjan, a small stream;
and some distance from it, the Kulluong, or Parwheet river, more
properly the continuation of the Riam. On the port hand is a smaller
river, running N. 35 deg. E. We pursued this stream, called Ugong Passer;
and after a hard pull against a strong tide, emerged into the larger
river of Samarahan. The tide was so strong against us that we brought
up for a couple of hours till it slacked, and between four and five
got under weigh again, with the expectation of shortly arriving at
our place of destination. Hour after hour passed, however; the sun
set; the glorious moon rose upon our progress as we toiled slowly but
cheerfully onward. Silence was around, save when broken by the wild
song of the Malay boatmen, responded to by the song of our tars to
the tune of 'Bonnie laddie, Highland laddie.'
"It was such a situation as an excitable mind might envy. The
reflection that we were proceeding up a Borneon river hitherto
unknown, sailing where no European ever sailed before; the deep
solitude, the brilliant night, the dark fringe of retired jungle,
the lighter foliage of the river bank, with here and there a tree
flashing and shining with fireflies, nature's tiny lamps glancing and
flitting in countless numbers and incredible brilliancy! At eleven at
night we reached Samarahan, having been eighteen hours in the boat,
and fifteen at the oars, chiefly against tide. The men were tired,
but cheerful. Indeed, I can give them no praise beyond their merits
for conduct spirited, enduring, and yet so orderly as never to offend
the native inhabitants, or infringe upon their prejudices. A glass of
grog with our supper, and we all soon closed our eyes in comfortable
sleep, such as fatigue alone can bring.
"_22d._--The village of Samarahan consists of a few houses, built,
as usual, upon posts, and standing close to the brink of the river. It
contains from sixty to eighty inhabitants in all, and there is nothing
in its site different from the rest of the country. While here, a boat,
with a Dyak family, came alongside, consisting of a father, his son,
and two daughters. They belonged to the Sibnowan tribe, and had a
'ladang,' or farm, on the Samarahan, toward the sea. The women were
good-looking; one, indeed, handsome, plump, and intelligent. They
were naked to the waist, and ornamented with several cinctures of
brass and colored rattans scraped very thin.
"About ten we quitted Samarahan and proceeded up the river,
stopping only to take a set of sights, and about seven in the evening
reached Sibnow, having previously passed the villages of Rembas and
Siniawan. Siniawan and Sibnow are not above half a mile from each
other, and Rembas not far distant. They are all about the same size,
consisting each of eight or ten houses, and containing sixty or eighty
inhabitants. The river, during its course so far, is characterized by
the same clay-mud bank, evidently an alluvial deposit, without one
rock to be seen. The banks are low, and for the most part cleared a
quarter of a mile or more on either side, but the jungle is rarely
disturbed beyond that distance. Occasionally, however, the scene
is varied by the rich foliage of this jungle, which here and there
kisses the tide as it flows by, and in some spots on the cleared
ground arise clumps of trees that would be the pride of any park
in Europe. Monkeys in great numbers frisked among the branches; and
though unable to shoot them, they amused us often by their grotesque
attitudes and the tremendous leaps they made. On one occasion we
saw as many as twenty throw themselves, one after the other, from
the branch of a high tree into a thick bush full forty feet below,
and not one missed his distance or hold! On our way to Sibnow the
Pangeran had collected a number of men for a deer-hunt. The nets used
for this purpose are formed of rattans strongly wove together, which,
being stretched along the jungle, have nooses of the same material,
at three feet apart, attached to this ridge-rope. Beaters and dogs
then hunt from the opposite quarter, and the deer, in escaping them, is
caught in this trap. A length of several hundred fathoms is stretched
at once, each separate part of thirty or forty fathoms being joined
on as required; and I was told that in this way many deer were taken.
"A heavy rain came on directly after we had brought up, and quickly
dispelled all our preparations for supper, by putting out our fire,
cooling our hot water, and soaking our half-broiled fowls. To a hungry
man such an event is very disastrous; but nothing could exceed the
kindness of our Malay friends. They took us to the best house in the
village, prepared our supper, and provided us with comfortable mats
and pillows to sleep on. Some of our party preferred a bad supper and
wet bed to these accommodations; and, to consummate their discomfort,
they were kept awake a great part of the night by sandflies. Our
lot in the house was more fortunate. We heard the rattling of the
pitiless rain, and commiserated those whose choice or distrust kept
them in the boat. I obtained by this means an excellent opportunity of
seeing a Malay _menage_ in its primitive simplicity. Women, children,
and all their domestic arrangements, were exposed to view. Nothing
appeared to be concealed, nor could anything exceed the simple,
kind-hearted hospitality of the inhabitants. The women gazed upon us
freely; and their children, with the shyness natural to their age,
yet took a glance at the strangers. Never having seen a white man,
their curiosity was naturally excited; but it was never offensive. Our
supper consisted of an excellent curry, and cold venison broiled on a
stick, flavored with a glass of sherry, and concluded by a cigar. We
retired to a dry bed, laying our head on the pillow with as entire
a feeling of security as though reposing in England.
"A description of this Malay dwelling, situated so far up this hitherto
unknown river, may be interesting. Built, like other Malay houses,
on posts, floored with split bamboo, and covered with the leaf of the
Nepa palm, it presents the very _beau ideal_ of fragility, but affords,
at the same time, many advantages, and with a little improvement
might be rendered admirably calculated for a new settler in any warm
country. It is built at very small expense, is remarkably roomy, free
from damp, and weather-proof. The interior of the house consists of
four rooms, the center one large and commodious, the front narrower,
but thirty-six feet in length, a family sleeping-apartment on one side,
and a kitchen at the back. These apartments are divided one from the
other by partitions made of the Nepa; the floors were nicely spread
with strong mats of Dyak manufacture, and on our arrival finer white
mats were laid over these. The entrance of the house is approached
by a steep ladder, which in case of attack is easily removed. The
river Samarahan is admirably calculated for trade, and, indeed,
the same may be said of the whole country, from the great facility
it offers of inland communication. There is no impediment for small
vessels of 200 or 300 tons navigating as far as Sibnow, the stream
being deep and clear of danger. The tides in the river are strong,
but not dangerously so; and, sounding occasionally in every reach,
we never found less water than three fathoms. The distant mountains,
called Bukar (and some other name), are inhabited by Dyaks, and are
said to offer many valuable articles of trade; and we may presume
this true from the riches of the region whence the Sarawak river
takes its rise. It is highly probable, indeed, that both these rivers,
as well as the Quop and others, have their source in the same range,
and will be found to afford the same mineral productions. Tin, the
natives confidently assert, can be procured, and birds' nests in
very considerable quantities. The latter article, I have heretofore
understood, was found only in the vicinity of the sea, whence the
material of which they are composed is gathered; but both here and
at Sarawak the best informed and most intelligent Malays assure me
it is likewise found in the interior, and brought by the Dyaks from
the mountains. The alluvial soil is a rich clay loam. The principal
production at present is rice, of which considerable quantities are
grown on the banks of the river, which accounts for the clearing
of so many miles of the jungle. The mode of cultivation is similar
to what is pursued in Sumatra, and so well described by Marsden. A
small spot is cleared of jungle, and when the soil is exhausted of
its primeval richness, is deserted for another, which again in turn
is neglected, and returns to its wild state. The rice produced is of
excellent quality, and of a smaller grain than the Java rice we have
with us. It is very white and of excellent flavor, and I am inclined
to think is the 'Padi ladang,' or rice grown on dry ground. (For rice,
cultivation of, &c., &c., vide Marsden's _Sumatra_, p. 65.)
"Beside rice, rattans are found in great quantities, and likewise
Malacca canes, but whether of good quality I am not able to say. On my
expressing a wish to see one, a man was dispatched into the jungle,
and returned with one in a few minutes. Bees-wax is another article
to be procured here _at present_ to the amount of thirty or forty
peculs per year from Sibnow, Malacca canes a small ship-load, rattans
in abundance, and any quantity of Garu wood. [4] When we consider the
antimony of Sarawak, beside the other things previously mentioned (to
say nothing of gold and diamonds), we cannot doubt of the richness
of the country: but allowance must be made for the exaggeration of
native statements.
"It must likewise be borne in mind, that these articles are
collected in small quantities in a country thinly populated; and
for the purposes of trade it would be necessary to have a resident
European on the spot to gather the produce of the country ready for
exportation. I have no doubt that permission might be obtained for
an English merchant to reside in the country, and that during the
lifetime of the Rajah Muda Hassim he would be secure from outrage. The
produce of the country might likewise be obtained (at first) at a
low rate in exchange for European goods suited to native tastes. In
addition to the articles I have already mentioned, I must here add
pins, needles, and thread, both gold and white, showy cheap velvets,
yellow, green, and red cloth, Surat silks, cottons, colored beads
(for the Dyaks), nankeens in small quantities, gold-lace of various
qualities, gunpowder, muskets, pistols, flints, &c., &c. The head man
of Sibnow (Orang Kaya), when I asked him why he did not collect the
produce of the country, replied, that the inhabitants were few, and
unless an English merchant was settled at Kuching to buy the things,
it was no use collecting them. The uncertainty of sale, as well as
the very small prices to be obtained from trading Malays, prevents
these people using the advantages of their country, and as yet they
seemed to consider it impossible that vessels would come for them. That
they will one day or other be convinced to the contrary, I am sure;
that it will be soon, I sincerely hope; for I can see no reason, with
a population and rulers so pacific, why a trade highly advantageous
to Singapore should not be opened. I considered our reception as an
additional proof how much better the natives are disposed where they
have had no intercourse with Europeans; how perfectly willing they
are to extend a friendly hospitality when never previously injured or
aggravated; and as the first white men who ever visited their country,
we can bear the most cordial testimony to their unaffected kindness.
"It is true that we were under the protection of the rajah and
accompanied by a Pangeran, and could have insisted on obtaining what
was readily granted. But in case the natives had shown any aversion
or antipathy toward us, it would easily have been observed.
"_23d._--Heavy rain all the morning. Our salt provisions being
exhausted, we procured a goat, which was cooked to last during our
upward passage.
"At 12, the flood making, we quitted Sibnow, and passing through the
same description of country, reached the village of Guntong, consisting
of eight houses, and about sixty or seventy inhabitants. The scattered
population on the banks of the river amounts, however, to an equal,
or probably greater number than in the villages. Beyond Guntong
the country becomes wild, but beautiful, and the river gradually
narrows until not above twenty-five yards wide. The depth, however,
was three fathoms at high water, where we brought up for the night,
about five hours' pull from Guntong. The course of the river is so
tortuous, that in one place two reaches are only divided by a neck
of land five yards across!
"We were now fairly in the bush, and beyond the range of our Pangeran's
knowledge; and I was not therefore surprised (though disappointed)
when he intimated the necessity of returning. 'There was nothing to
see; the river was narrow, rapid, and obstructed by trees; the Dyaks
hostile; the rajah's enemies in ambush.'
"I had nothing to answer, save my desire to proceed; but I felt, at
the same time, bound in honor to return; for to abuse the indulgence
of a native prince on our first excursion would have been a poor way
to obtain his future permission to visit other places.
"I did everything man could do to shake the Pangeran's resolution;
and I believe I should have been successful, had his stock of tobacco
and sirih [5] not been expended. My last resource was resorting to
the means found efficient with most men to induce them to alter
their opinion. I was content to gain a consent to our proceeding
some miles farther up the stream in the morning, and then returning
with the ebb. Nothing during this contention could be more polite
than the Pangeran's manner; for he not only expressed but looked his
regret, and urged on me his responsibility to the rajah. The plea was
unanswerable, though I could not help suspecting the want of tobacco
and betel as the leading motive.
"_24th._--We proceeded, as previously agreed, up the river some
ten or twelve miles farther, during which distance it narrows to
an inconsiderable but deep stream. In many places it was not above
eighteen feet wide, with trees overhanging the water. The depth was
2 1/2 fathoms high water; but being the rainy season, it would not
be deeper than necessary for boats all the year round. In the early
morning the jungle presented a charming scene. Long vistas of noble
trees with a diversity of richest foliage were before us--in some
places overarching the water, and forming a verdant canopy above
our heads. Birds were numerous, and woke the woods with their notes,
but rarely approached within shot. Pigeons in numbers and of several
varieties were seen, but very shy and wild.
"We pushed on ahead of our attendant Pangeran, and pulled up long
after the ebb had made. He had a long chase, and exhausted his
lungs in shouting to us to return; and at last, from pity and
according to promise, I did so. Poor fellow, he was very glad,
fired his swivel-gun, and then brought up for breakfast. I believe
a few hours' progress would have brought us to the vicinity of the
hills and into the country of the Dyaks; and although disappointed
at not being allowed to proceed thither, I nevertheless comfort
myself that we have penetrated a hundred miles up a Borneon river
hitherto unknown--a river likewise (as far as we have yet examined
it) admirably calculated for the purposes of navigation and trade,
and which may at some future period become of importance not only to
the trade of our settlement of Singapore, but even to the commercial
interests of Great Britain. The general character of the Samarahan
is similar to that of other rivers flowing through alluvial soils;
the stream is deep, with muddy banks and bottom, and apparently free
from danger or obstruction. Of course these remarks are not meant
to prevent the necessity of caution in any vessel proceeding up,
as our survey was necessarily very brief; and, like other rivers,
one bank will usually be found deep, the other shallow; which must
be attended to.
"It now remains for us to proceed up the river from its mouth to its
junction with the Ugong Passer; and should it prove to have sufficient
water for vessels on the bar, nothing more will be desired.
"Returning, it took us five hours with a fair tide to Sibnow; the
next ebb we reached Samarahan in three hours, where we stopped for
the night. A heavy rain set in after we brought to, and continued
till morning.
"_25th._--The morning was cold and raw; but cleared up as the sun
rose. At 7 we started, and at a quarter past 10 reached the mouth
of the Ugong Passer and thence into the Riam. Thus it took us 11 1/4
hours, with a strong ebb tide, to pull the distance. We had ascended
the river from the junction of the Ugong Passer. Mr. Murray's plan
of the river will show the distance as taken of each reach, together
with its bearing. The ebb tide lasted us some distance up the Riam;
but the flood making, we entered a small creek, called Tarusongong,
scarce wide enough for the boat to get through, and entirely
overarched with the Nepa palm. The general direction of the creek
was N.W., and we emerged from it into the Boyur river; and pulling
through several reaches, got into the Quop, [6] and thence, after a
while, into the Morotaba; from the Morotaba into the Sarawak river,
reaching the schooner at sunset, all well and happy. Thus ended our
first cruise into the interior of Borneo."
CHAPTER III.
Second Cruise: up the River Lundu.--The Sibnowan Dyaks--Their
Town of Tungong.--Their Physical Proportions, and Words of
their Language.--Their Customs.--Skull-trophies.--Religious
Ceremonies and Opinions.--Their Ornaments.--Appearance of
both Sexes.--Dress and Morals.--Missionary Prospects of
Conversion, and Elevation in the Social Scale.--Government,
Laws, and Punishments.--Dances.--Iron Manufacturing.--Chinese
Settlement.--Excursion continued.
"_Aug. 30th._--Our flotilla, constituted as before, quitted Sarawak
with the ebb tide, and reached Santobong, at the mouth of the river,
soon after the flood had made. We waited for the turn of the tide; and
in wandering along the sand, I had a shot at a wild hog, but unluckily
missed. I likewise saw a deer, very like a red deer, and nearly as
large. The hog I fired at was a dirty white, with a black head, very
unlike in this particular to any wild hogs I have hitherto seen either
in India or Europe; but several young pigs, likewise seen, were black.
"With the flood we weighed anchor, intending to bring up at the mouth
of the Seboo river; but the Skimalong outsailing the prahus, foolishly
parted company, causing me much uneasiness, and keeping the prahus
under weigh all night. I was at this time aboard the Pangeran's boat,
where I usually slept. About 10 on the 31st we reached Lobrek Bay,
and rejoined our boat.
"With the flood tide we proceeded up Lundu river, which has Gunong
Gading on the right hand. The course of the river is very tortuous,
but it appears every where of more than sufficient depth. The Dyak
village of Tungong is situated about eighteen miles from the mouth, and
takes its name from a small stream which joins the Lundu just below,
on the left hand. It was dark when we arrived, and we ran against a
boom formed of large trees run across the river as a defense against
adverse Dyak tribes. We could see nothing of the town, save that it
appeared longer than any we had yet visited.
"_September 1st._--The River Lundu is of considerable breadth, about
half a mile at the mouth, and 150 or 200 yards off Tungong. Tungong
stands on the left hand (going up) close to the margin of the stream,
and is inclosed by a slight stockade. Within this defense there is
_one_ enormous house for the whole population, and three or four
small huts. The exterior of the defense between it and the river is
occupied by sheds for prahus, and at each extremity are one or two
houses belonging to Malay residents.
"The common habitation, as rude as it is enormous, measures 594 feet
in length, and the front room, or _street_, is the entire length of the
building, and 21 feet broad. The back part is divided by mat partitions
into the private apartments of the various families, and of these there
are forty-five separate doors leading from the public apartment. The
widowers and young unmarried men occupy the public room, as only those
with wives are entitled to the advantage of separate rooms. The floor
of this edifice is raised twelve feet from the ground, and the means
of ascent is by the trunk of a tree with notches cut in it--a most
difficult, steep, and awkward ladder. In front is a terrace fifty feet
broad, running partially along the front of the building, formed, like
the floors, of split bamboo. This platform, as well as the front room,
besides the regular inhabitants, is the resort of pigs, dogs, birds,
monkeys, and fowls, and presents a glorious scene of confusion and
bustle. Here the ordinary occupations of domestic labor are carried
on--padi ground, mats made, &c., &c. There were 200 men, women, and
children counted in the room and in front while we were there in the
middle of the day; and, allowing for those abroad and those in their
own rooms, the whole community can not be reckoned at less than 400
souls. Overhead, about seven feet high, is a second crazy story, on
which they stow their stores of food and their implements of labor
and war. Along the large room are hung many cots, four feet long,
formed of the hollowed trunks of trees cut in half, which answer the
purpose of seats by day and beds by night. The Sibnowan Dyaks are a
wild-looking but apparently quiet and inoffensive race. The apartment
of their chief, by name Sejugah, is situated nearly in the center
of the building, and is larger than any other. In front of it nice
mats were spread on the occasion of our visit, while over our heads
dangled about thirty ghastly skulls, according to the custom of these
people. The chief was a man of middle age, with a mild and pleasing
countenance and gentle manners. He had around him several sons and
relations, and one or two of the leading men of his tribe, but the
rest seemed by no means to be restrained by his presence, or to show
him any particular marks of respect: certainly nothing of the servile
obsequiousness observed by the Malays before their prince. Their
dress consists of a single strip of cloth round the loins, with the
ends hanging down before and behind, and a light turban, composed of
the bark of trees, twined round the head, and so arranged that the
front is stuck up somewhat resembling a short plume of feathers.
"Their figures are almost universally well made, showing great activity
without great muscular development; but their stature is diminutive,
as will be seen by the following measurements, taken at random among
them, and confirmed by general observation:
"Sejugah, the chief, height, 5 ft. 1 3/4 in. Head round, 1 ft. 9
in. Anterior portion, from ear to ear, 1 foot; posterior, 9 in.;
across the top, 1 1/4 ft.
"Kalong, the chief's eldest son, height, 5 ft. 2 1/4 in. Anterior
portion of head, 1 ft.; posterior, 8 3/4 in.; across the top,
1 ft., wanting a few lines.
Height
Man from the crowd 5 ft. 1 3/4 in.
Another 5 1 1/2
Another 5 4
Another 4 10
Another 5 3
Another 5 4
"The following is a specimen of their names, and some few words
of their dialect, the only ones I could get not Malayan. The fact,
indeed, appears to be that, from constant intercourse, their Dyak
language is fast fading away; and, while retaining their separate
religion and customs, they have substituted the soft and fluent Malay
for their own harsher jargon. The names are, Jugah or Sejugah, Kalong,
Bunshie, Kontong, Lang, Rantie.
The vocabulary:
hairs, _bok_ (similar to the Lundu Dyaks).
thigh, _pah_.
woman, _indo_.
father, _api_.
sea, _tasiek_.
slave, _ulon_.
spear, _sancho_.
black, _chelum_.
good, _badass_.
bad, _jaie_.
quick, _pantass_.
slow, _bagadie_.
that, _kneah_ (nasal, like _kgneah_).
this, _to_.
to go, _bajali_.
there, _kein_.
come, _jali_
here, _keto_.
come here, _jali keto_.
to give, _bri_.
give all, _bri samonia_ (M).
to bring, _bii_.
bring that, _bii kneah_.
bring here, _bii keto_.
"The corruptions of the Malay are _langan_ for _tangon_, arm; _ai_
for _ayer_, water; _menua_ for _benua_, country; _komah_ for _rumah_,
house; _besi_ for _besar_, great.
"Like the rest of the Dyaks, the Sibnowans adorn their houses with
the heads of their enemies; but with them this custom exists in a
modified form; and I am led to hope that the statements already made
public of their reckless search after human beings, _merely_ for the
purpose of obtaining their heads, will be found to be exaggerated, if
not untrue; and that the custom elsewhere, as here and at Lundu, will
be found to be more accordant with our knowledge of other wild tribes,
and to be regarded merely as a triumphant token of valor in the fight
or ambush; similar, indeed, to the scalps of the North American Indian.
"Some thirty skulls were hanging from the roof of the apartment; and I
was informed that they had many more in their possession; all, however,
the heads of enemies, chiefly of the tribe of Sarebus. On inquiring,
I was told that it is indispensably necessary a young man should
procure a skull before he gets married. When I urged on them that the
custom would be more honored in the breach than the observance, they
replied that it was established from time immemorial, and could not
be dispensed with. Subsequently, however, Sejugah allowed that heads
were very difficult to obtain now, and a young man might sometimes
get married by giving presents to his lady-love's parents. At all
times they warmly denied ever obtaining any heads but those of their
enemies; adding, they were bad people, and deserved to die.
"I asked a young unmarried man whether he would be obliged to get a
head before he could obtain a wife. He replied, 'Yes.' 'When would
he get one?' 'Soon.' 'Where would he go to get one?' 'To the Sarebus
river.' I mention these particulars in detail, as I think, had their
practice extended to taking the head of any defenseless traveler,
or any Malay surprised in his dwelling or boat, I should have wormed
the secret out of them.
"The men of this tribe marry but one wife, and that not until they have
attained the age of seventeen or eighteen. Their wedding ceremony is
curious; and, as related, is performed by the bride and bridegroom
being brought in procession along the large room, where a brace of
fowls is placed over the bridegroom's neck, which he whirls seven
times round his head. The fowls are then killed, and their blood
sprinkled on the foreheads of the pair, which done, they are cooked,
and eaten by the new-married couple _alone_, while the rest feast
and drink during the whole night.
"Their dead are put in a coffin, and buried; but Sejugah informed
me that the different tribes vary in this particular; and it would
appear they differ from their near neighbors the Dyaks of Lundu.
"Like these neighbors, too, the Sibnowans seem to have little or no
idea of a God. They offer prayers to Biedum, the great Dyak chief of
former days. Priests and ceremonies they have none; the thickest mist
of darkness is over them: but how much easier is it to dispel darkness
with light than to overcome the false blaze with the rays of truth!
"The manners of the men of this tribe are somewhat reserved, but
frank; while the women appeared more cheerful, and more inclined to
laugh and joke at our peculiarities. Although the first Europeans
they had ever seen, we were by no means annoyed by their curiosity:
and their honesty is to be praised; for, though opportunities were
not wanting, they never on any occasion attempted to pilfer any
thing. Their color resembles the Malay, and is fully as dark; and
the cast of their countenance does not favor the notion that they are
sprung from a distinct origin. They never intermarry with the Malays,
so as to intermingle the two people, and the chastity of their women
gives no presumption of its otherwise occurring. Their stature, as I
have before remarked, is diminutive, their eyes are small and quick,
their noses usually flattened, and their figures clean and well
formed, but not athletic. Both sexes generally wear the hair long
and turned up, but the elder men often cut it short. As is natural,
they are fond of the water, and constantly bathe; and their canoes
are numerous. I counted fifty, besides ten or twelve small prahus,
which they often build for sale to the Malays, at a very moderate
price indeed. The men wear a number of fine cane rings, neatly worked
(which we at first mistook for hair), below the knee or on the arm, and
sometimes a brass ring or two; but they have no other ornaments. The
ears of a few were pierced, but I saw nothing worn in them except a
roll of thin palm-leaf, to prevent the hole closing. The women are
decidedly good-looking, and far fairer than the men; their figures
are well shaped, and remarkable for their _embonpoint_. The expression
of their countenance is very good-humored, and their condition seems
a happy one. Their dress consists of a coarse stuff, very scanty
(manufactured by the Sakarran Dyaks), reaching from the waist to the
knee; around the waist they have rings of ratan, either black or red,
and the loins are hung round with a number of brass ornaments made by
their husbands. Above the waist they are entirely naked, nor do they
wear any covering or ornament on the head. They have a few bracelets
of brass, but neither ear-rings nor nose-rings; and some, more lucky
than the rest, wear a necklace of beads. They prefer the smallest
Venetian beads to the larger and more gaudy ones of England. The labor
of the house, and all the drudgery, falls on the females. They grind
the rice, carry burdens, fetch water, fish, and work in the fields;
but though on a par with other savages in this respect, they have many
advantages. They are not immured; they eat in company with the males;
and, in most points, hold the same position toward their husbands and
children as European women. The children are entirely naked; and the
only peculiarity I observed is filing their teeth to a sharp point,
like those of a shark. The men marry but one wife, as I have before
observed. Concubinage is unknown; and cases of seduction or adultery
very seldom arise. Even the Malays speak highly of the chastity of the
Dyak women; yet they are by no means shy under the gaze of strangers,
and used to bathe before us in a state of nudity.
"That these Dyaks are in a low condition there is no doubt; but,
comparatively, theirs is an innocent state, and I consider them
capable of being easily raised in the scale of society. The absence
of all prejudice regarding diet, the simplicity of their characters,
the purity of their morals, and their present ignorance of all forms
of worship and all idea of future responsibility, render them open to
conviction of truth and religious impression. Yet, when I say this,
I mean, of course, only when their minds shall have been raised by
education; for without previous culture I reckon the labors of the
missionary as useless as endeavoring to read off a blank paper. I
doubt not but the Sibnowan Dyaks would readily receive missionary
families among them, provided the consent of the Rajah Muda Hassim
was previously obtained. That the rajah would consent I much doubt;
but if any person chose to reside at Tungong, for the charitable
purpose of leading the tribe gradually, by means of education, to
the threshold of Christianity, it would be worth the asking, and I
would exert what influence I possess with him on the occasion. I feel
sure a missionary would be safe among them, as long as he strictly
confined himself to the gentle precepts and practice of his faith;
he would live abundantly and cheaply, and be exposed to no danger
except from the incursion of hostile tribes, which must always be
looked for by a sojourner amid a Dyak community.
"I must add, that this day, when so many of my friends are destroying
partridges, I have had my gun in my hand, to procure a few specimens.
"_2d._--To continue my account of the Sibnowan Dyaks. I made particular
inquiry about the superstition stated to exist regarding birds,
and the omens said to be drawn from their flight; but I could trace
no vestige of such a belief, nor did they seem at all acquainted
with its existence. The government of the Sibnowans may be called
patriarchal. The authority of the chief appears limited within very
narrow bounds; he is the leader in war, and the dispenser of the laws;
but possesses no power of arbitrary punishment, and no authority for
despotic rule. The distinction between Sejugah and the lowest of his
tribe is not great, and rather a difference of riches than of power. A
few ornamented spears, presented by the Malays, seem his only insignia
of office; and these were never displayed in our presence, save in the
dance. The chiefship would appear to be elective, and not hereditary;
but I could not distinctly understand whether the appointment rested
with the rajah or the tribe. The former claims it; but the latter
did not speak as though his right were a matter of necessity or
certainty. On asking Kalong, the eldest son of Sejugah (a young man
of twenty years of age, active, clever, and intelligent), whether he
would succeed his father, he replied, he feared he was not _rich _
enough; but two or three of the tribe, who were present, asserted
that he would be made chief. The Rajah Muda Hassim told me that the
only hold he had on the Dyaks was through the chief and his family,
who were attached to him; but that the tribe at large cared nothing
for the Malays. I can easily believe this, as any ill treatment or
cruelty directed against a Dyak community would soon drive them beyond
the power and the territory of the prince. This is the best safeguard
of the Dyaks; and the Malays are well aware that a Dyak alliance must
be maintained by good treatment. They are called subjects and slaves;
but they are subjects at pleasure, more independent and better used
than any Malay under his native prince.
"The laws of this Dyak tribe are administered by the chief and the two
principal men. They have no fixed code, nor any standard of punishment,
each case of crime being judged according to its enormity. In the
event of murder in their own tribe, the murderer suffers death by
decapitation, _provided he be in fault_. Theft is punished by fine,
and adultery (stated as a heinous offense) by severe beating and heavy
mulct [7]. Other crimes are, in like manner, punished by fine and
beating--one or both, according to their various shades of evil. The
latter varies greatly in degree, sometimes being inflicted on the
head or arm, with a severity which stops short only of death. The
arm is often broken under this infliction; so, according to their
representation, it is a risk to be dreaded and avoided.
"Slavery holds among them; and, as among the Malays, a debtor is
reduced to this state until his debt be discharged. Children are
likewise bought, and must be considered as slaves.
"In the evening I requested Sejugah to collect his tribe, and to show
me their dances and musical instruments. They readily consented,
and about nine at night we went to witness the exhibition. The
musical instruments were, the tomtom, or drum, and the Malayan gong;
which were beat either slow or fast, according to the measure of
the dance. The dances are highly interesting, more especially from
their close resemblance, if not identity, with those of the South Sea
Islanders. Two swords were placed on the mat, and two men commenced
slowly, from the opposite extremities, turning the body, extending
the arms, and lifting the legs, in grotesque but not ungraceful
attitudes. Approaching thus leisurely round and round about, they at
length seize the swords, the music plays a brisker measure, and the
dancers pass and repass each other, now cutting, now crossing swords,
retiring and advancing, one kneeling as though to defend himself from
the assaults of his adversary; at times stealthily waiting for an
advantage, and quickly availing himself of it. The measure throughout
was admirably kept, and the frequent turns were simultaneously made
by both dancers, accompanied by the same eccentric gestures. The
effect of all this far surpasses the impression to be made by a
meager description. The room partially lighted by damar torches;
the clang of the noisy instruments; the crowd of wild spectators;
their screams of encouragement to the performers; the flowing hair and
rapid evolutions of the dancers, formed a scene I wish could have been
reduced to painting by such a master as Rembrandt or Caravaggio. The
next dance was performed by a single person, with a spear, turning
like the last; now advancing, retiring, poising, brandishing, or
pretending to hurl his weapon. Subsequently we had an exhibition with
the sword and shield, very similar to the others, and only differing
in the use of the weapons; and the performance was closed by a long
and animated dance like the first, by two of the best performers.
"The dance with the spear is called Talambong; that with the sword,
Mancha. The resemblance of these dances to those of the South Seas is,
as I have observed, a remarkable and interesting fact, and one of many
others which may, in course of time, elucidate the probable theory that
the two people are sprung from a common source. The Malays of Sarawak,
and other places in the neighborhood of the Dyak tribes, dance these
dances; but they are unknown to Borneo Proper, and the other Malay
islands; and although the names may be given by the Malays, I think
there is no doubt that the dances themselves belong to the Dyaks:
a correcter judgment can be formed by a better acquaintance with
other Dyak tribes.
"The household utensils in use here are few and simple. The mode
of grinding padi clear of the husk is through the trunk of a tree
cut into two parts, the upper portion being hollow, the lower solid;
small notches are cut where the two pieces fit, and handles attached
to the upper part, which being filled with padi and kept turning round,
the husk is detached and escapes by the notches.
"The Dyaks, as is well known, are famous for the manufacture of
iron. The forge here is of the simplest construction, and formed
by two hollow trees, each about seven feet high, placed upright,
side by side, in the ground; from the lower extremity of these, two
pipes of bamboo are led through a clay-bank, three inches thick,
into a charcoal fire; a man is perched at the top of the trees,
and pumps with two pistons (the suckers of which are made of cocks'
feathers), which being raised and depressed alternately, blow a
regular stream of air into the fire. Drawings were taken of these
and other utensils and instruments. The canoes are not peculiar,
but the largest prahus (some forty feet long, with a good beam)
are constructed, in the first place, exactly like a small canoe:
a single tree is hollowed out, which forms the keel and kelson,
and on this foundation the rest of the prahu is built with planks,
and her few timbers fastened with ratans. A prahu of fifty feet long,
fitted for service, with oars, mast, attops, &c., was ordered by the
Panglima Rajah while we were with him, which, completed, was to cost
thirty reals, or sixty Java rupees, or L6 English. During the course
of the day we ascended the river to visit the settlement of Chinese
lately established here. It is situated about two and a half miles
up the river, on the same side as Tungong, and consists of thirty men
(real Chinese), and five women of the mixed breed of Sambas. Nothing
can be more flourishing than this infant settlement, and I could hardly
credit their statement that it had only been formed between four and
five months. The soil they represented as most excellent, and none
are better judges; many acres were cleared and under cultivation;
rice, sirih, sweet potatoes (convolvulus), Indian corn, &c., &c.,
were growing abundantly; and they were able to supply us with seven
pecul, or 933 pounds of sweet potatoes, without sensibly diminishing
their crop. They showed me samples of birds' nests, bees' wax, garu
wood (lignum aloes), and ebony, collected in the vicinity, chiefly
from Gunong Gading. Several peculs of birds' nests and bees' wax, and
the wood in large quantity, could _now_ be brought to market; and no
doubt, when demand stimulates industry, the quantities would greatly
increase. The Dyaks, they told me, collected ratans, and likewise
canes, which are plentiful. The mixed breed of the Chinese with the
Malay or Dyak are a good-looking and industrious race, partaking
much more of the Chinese character than that of the natives of this
country. This mainly arises from education and early-formed habits,
which are altogether Chinese; and in religion and customs they likewise
follow, in a great measure, the paternal stock. The race are worthy
of attention, as the future possessors of Borneo. The numbers of this
people can not be stated, but it must amount to many thousand persons:
3000 were said to be on their way to the Borneon territory.
"The head man of this settlement, a Chinese of Quantung, or Canton,
but long resident in the vicinity of Sambas, gave me some valuable
information respecting the Sarawak mountains. He had, with a
considerable party of his countrymen, been employed there at the
gold-mines, and he spoke of them as abundant, and of the ore as
good. Tin they had not found, but thought it existed. Antimony ore was
to be had in any quantities, and diamonds were likewise discovered. I
mention these facts as coming from an intelligent Chinese, well able
from experience to judge of the precious metals, and the probability
of their being found.
"_3d._--Night, as usual, set in with torrents of rain, which lasted
until the morning: the days, however, are fine, though cloudy. Got
sights in the afternoon; and, leaving our Dyak friends, we dropped
down to the mouth of the river, where we slept.
"_4th._--At 2 A.M. got under weigh for the Samatan river, which we
reached at 8 A.M. I had been given to understand that the Lundu and
Sibnowan Dyaks were to be found on this river; but on arriving, I
was informed we must proceed to Seru, where we should see plenty of
Dyaks. I accordingly started immediately after breakfast, and reached
Seru after mid-day. Here we found a small Malay fishing village, with
two or three stray Dyaks of the Sibnowan tribe; and, on inquiring, we
were told by them that their country was far away. Being convinced that
the Pangeran had dragged me all this distance to answer some purpose
of his own, I re-embarked on the instant, and set off on my return
to Lundu, indignant enough. However, I had the poor satisfaction of
dragging them after me, and making them repent their trick, which I
believe was nothing else than to visit the island of Talang Talang for
turtles' eggs. We were pretty well knocked up by the time we reached
Samatan, having been pulling thirteen hours, the greater part of the
time under a burning sun.
"The Samatan river, like the others, is inclosed in a bay choked with
sand: the boat-passage is on the right-hand side, going in near Point
Samatan. The sands are mostly dry at low water, and stretch out a
considerable distance. There is a fishing station here, though not so
large as at Seru, and the fish at both places are very plentiful, and
are salted for exportation to Sambas, and along their own coast. Seru
is a shallow creek; the village may consist of 50 or 60 inhabitants,
and the sands stretch a long way out. We thus lost two days, through
the cunning of our Malay attendant; and the only advantage gained is
being enabled to fill up the details of our survey of this bay.
"_5th._--The day consumed returning along the coast to the Lundu,
and we did not reach Tungong till late.
"_6th._--Remained at Tungong. Every impediment was thrown in my way to
prevent my reaching the Lundu Dyaks; the distance was great, the tribe
small and unsettled, there was little probability of finding them,
&c. I would, however, have gone; but another cause had arisen of a more
serious nature. My feet, from the heat of the sun, musqueto-bites, and
cuts (for I foolishly went without shoes that unlucky day to Seru),
had become so painful and inflamed that I felt great doubt whether,
if I walked in pain to Lundu, I could come back again. With the best
grace I could, I yielded the point; with a vow, however, never to
have the same Pangeran again. I did _manage_ to be civil to him,
from policy alone. He was superfluously kind and obliging.
"_7th._--Left Tungong on our return to the vessel, and brought-to
for the night at Tanjong Siri. In the evening I walked along the fine
sandy beach as far as the entrance of the Sumpudin river. We saw many
wild hogs; and on one occasion I was able to get within twenty yards
of some ten of them together, among some large drift-wood. Just as I
was crawling over a tree and balancing, I found myself confronted by
these animals; but they were out of sight almost before I could cock
my gun and fire. They were of a large size, and most of them we saw
during the evening either dirty white, or white and black. At night,
after we had retired to our quarters in the Pangeran's boat, she filled
with water, and was near going down. The first intimation we had of
it was the water wetting our mats on which we were sleeping. She was
beached and baled out, and a hand kept baling all night, as they had
laden her so deep that she leaked considerably.
"_8th._--In the morning we got our anchor at daylight, and
breakfasted on the island of Sumpudin. There are deer, hogs, and
pigeons on Sumpudin Island; but what was more interesting to me was,
the discovery of the wild nutmeg-tree in full flower, and growing to
the height of twenty or thirty feet. The nutmegs lay in plenty under
the trees, and are of considerable size, though elongated in shape,
and tasteless, as usual in the wild sorts. While the East India Company
were sending Captain Forest from their settlement of Balambangan as
far as New Guinea in search of this plant, how little they dreamed
of its flourishing so near them on the island of Borneo! The soil on
which they grow is a yellowish clay, mixed with vegetable mould. I
brought some of the fruit away with me. After breakfast, a breeze
springing up, we sailed to the mouth of the Sarawak river, waited
for the tide, and pushed on for the vessel, getting aboard about
half past three in the morning. Our Malay attendants were left far,
far behind, and there is little chance of their being here to-morrow,
for their boats sail wretchedly."
CHAPTER IV.
Renewed intercourse with the Rajah.--Prospects of
trade.--Ourang-outang, and other animals.--The two sorts of
mias.--Description of the Rajah, his suite, and Panglimas, &c.--The
character of the natives.--Leave Sarawak.--Songi Dyaks.--Visit
Seriff Sahib.--Buyat tongue.--Attack by pirates.--Sail for
Singapore.
Having returned to Sarawak, Mr. Brooke renewed his intercourse with
the rajah; and his Journal proceeds:
"_Sept. 9th._--Visited the rajah; civil and polite--I ought indeed to
say friendly and kind. Der Macota was on board, speaking on the trade,
and very anxious for me to arrange the subject with the rajah. I could
only say, that I would do so if the rajah wished, as I believed it
would be greatly for the benefit of their country and Singapore.
"_10th._--Laid up with my bad legs, and hardly able to crawl. Muda
Hassim presented us with another bullock, which we salted. At Lundu we
bought eight pigs, which arrived to-day in charge of Kalong, the young
Dyak. He is a fine fellow. I gave him a gun, powder-flask, powder,
&c. He was truly delighted. Our Pangerans arrived at the same time.
"_11th._--Very bad; got a novel, and read all day. Went ashore to
see Muda Hassim in the evening. He gave us a private audience: and we
finished our discussion respecting the trade, and I think successfully.
"I began by saying, that I as a private gentleman, unconnected with
commerce, could have no personal interest in what I was about to speak;
that the rajah must clearly understand that I was in no way connected
with the government of Singapore, and no way authorized to act for
them: that he must, therefore, look upon it merely as my private
opinion, and act afterward as his wisdom thought fit. I represented
to him that the kingdom of Borneo was the last Malay state possessing
any power, and that this might be in a great measure attributed to
the little intercourse they had had with European powers. I thought
it highly advisable to call into play the resources of his country,
by opening a trade with individual European merchants. Sarawak,
I stated, was a rich place, and the territory around produced many
valuable articles for a commercial intercourse--bees-wax, birds-nests,
rattans, beside large quantities of antimony ore and sago, which might
be considered the staple produce of the country. In return for these,
the merchants of Singapore could send goods from Europe or China which
his people required, such as gunpowder, muskets, cloths, &c.; and both
parties would thus be benefited by their commercial interchange of
commodities. I conceived that Singapore was well fitted for trade with
this place. The rajah must not suppose I was desirous of excluding
other nations from trading here, or that I wished he should trade
with the English alone; on the contrary, I thought that the Americans,
the French, or any other nation, should be admitted on the same terms
as the English.
"Of course, I was not allowed to proceed without much questioning and
discussion; many of the views were urged and re-urged, to remove their
false notions. That Mr. Bonham had the supreme command of the trade
of Singapore was the prominent one; and when he died, or was removed,
would not the next governor alter all kind intentions and acts? 'What
friend should they have at Singapore then?'
"Again they thought that a few ships might come at first; but then
they would deceive them, and not come again. It was very difficult
to explain, that if they procured cargoes at an advantageous rate,
they would come here for their own benefit; if not, of course it
would not be worth their while to come at all. The entire discussion
proceeded with the utmost good-will and politeness.
"That the political ascendency of the English is paramount here is
apparent. They might if they pleased, by means of an offensive and
defensive alliance between the two powers, gain the entire trade of
the northwest coast of Borneo, from Tanjong Datu to Malludu Bay.
"I obtained subsequently from Macota the following list of imports
and exports; which I here commit to paper, for the information of
those whom it may concern.
"_From Singapore._--Iron; salt, Siam; nankeen; Madras, Europe,
and China cotton cloth, coarse and fine; Bugis and Pulicat sarongs;
gold and other threads, of sorts and colors; brass wire, of sizes;
iron pans from Siam, called qualis; chintzes, of colors and sorts;
coarse red broadcloth, and other sorts of different colors; China
crockery; gunpowder; muskets; flints; handkerchiefs (Pulicat and
European); gambir; dates; Java tobacco; soft sugar; sugar-candy;
biscuits; baharri; common decanters; glasses, &c. &c.; China silk,
of colors; ginghams; white cottons; nails; beside other little things,
such as Venetian beads; ginger; curry-powder; onions; ghee; &c. &c.
"The returns from Sarawak are now: antimony ore, sago, timber
(lackah, garu), rattans, Malacca canes, bees-wax, birds-nests, rice,
&c. Other articles, such as gold, tin, &c. &c., Macota said, would be
procured after the war, but at present he need say nothing of them;
the articles above mentioned might subsequently be greatly increased
by demand; and, in short, as every person of experience knows, in a
wild country a trade must be fostered at first.
"To the foregoing list I must add, pipeclay, vegetable tallow,
which might be useful in commerce, being of fine quality; and the
ore, found in abundance round here, of which I can make nothing,
but which I believe to be copper.
"_12th._--I received from the rajah a present of an ourang-outang,
young, and like others I have seen, but better clothed, with fine
long hair of a bright chestnut color. The same melancholy which
characterizes her race is apparent in Betsy's face; and though but
just caught, she is quite quiet unless teased.
"From the man who brought Betsy I procured a _Lemur tardigradus_,
called by the Malays _Cucan_, not _Poucan_, as written in
Cuvier--Marsden has the name right in his dictionary--and at the same
time the mutilated hand of an ourang-outang of _enormous_ size. This
hand far exceeds in length, breadth, and power, the hand of any man
in the ship; and though smoked and shrunk, the circumference of the
fingers is half as big again as an ordinary human finger. The natives
of Borneo call the ourang-outang the _Mias_, of which they say there
are two distinct sorts; one called the _Mias rombi_ (similar to the
specimen aboard and the two in the Zoological Gardens), and the _Mias
pappan_, a creature far larger, and more difficult to procure. To the
latter kind the hand belongs. The mias pappan is represented to be as
tall or taller than a man, and possessing vast strength: the face is
fuller and larger than that of the mias rombi, and the hair reddish,
but sometimes approaching to black. The mias rombi never exceeds four
or four and a half feet; his face, unlike the pappan, is long, and his
hair redder. I must own myself inclined to this opinion from various
reasons:--1st. The natives appear so well agreed on the point, and so
well acquainted with the distinction and the different names, that it
is impossible to suppose it a fabrication for our peculiar use. Of the
many whom I asked respecting them, at different times and in different
places, the greater part of their own accord mentioned the difference
between the mias pappan and the mias rombi. The animal when brought
aboard was stated to be the mias rombi, or small sort. In short,
the natives, whether right or wrong, make the distinction. 2d. The
immense size of the hand in my possession, the height of the animal
killed on the coast of Sumatra, and the skull in the Paris Museum,
can scarcely be referred to an animal such as we know at home; though
by specious analogical reasoning, the great disparity of the skulls
has been pronounced the result merely of age.
"However, facts are wanting, and these facts I doubt not I can soon
procure, if not actual proof; and whichever way it goes, in favor of
Buffon's Pongo or not, I shall be contented, so that I bring truth
to light.
"_19th._--From the 12th to the 19th of September we lay, anxious to be
off, but delayed by some trifling occurrence or other, particularly for
the letters which I was to receive for the merchants of Singapore. Our
intercourse the whole time was most friendly and frequent; almost
daily I was ashore, and the rajah often visited the vessel. How
tedious and _ennuyant_ to me can only be known by those who know me
well, and how repugnant these trammels of society and ceremony are to
nature. Nevertheless, I suffered this martyrdom with exemplary outward
patience, though the spirit flagged, and the thoughts wandered, and the
head often grew confused, with sitting and talking trifling nonsense,
through a poor interpreter.
"I here bid adieu to these kind friends, fully impressed with their
kindness, and the goodness of their dispositions. To me they are far
different from anything I was at all prepared to meet, and devoid
of the vices with which their countrymen are usually stigmatized by
modern writers. I expected to find an indolent and somewhat insolent
people, devoted to sensual enjoyments, addicted to smoking opium, and
eternally cock-fighting or gambling: let me speak it to the honor of
the Borneons, that they neither cock-fight nor smoke opium; and in the
military train of their rajah they find at Kuching few conveniences
and fewer luxuries. Like all the followers of Islam, they sanction
polygamy; and the number of their women, and, probably, the ease and
cheerfulness of the seraglio, contrasted with the ceremonial of the
exterior, induce them to pass a number of their hours amid their women,
and excite habits of effeminacy and indolence. I should pronounce
them indolent and unwarlike; but kind and unreserved to foreigners,
particularly to Englishmen. They are volatile, generally speaking very
ignorant, but by no means deficient in acuteness of understanding;
and, indeed, their chief defects may be traced entirely to their
total want of education, and the nature of their government. The
lower orders of people are poor and wretched, and the freemen are
certainly poorer and more wretched than the slaves. They are not
greatly addicted to theft, and yet, unlike the scrupulous honesty
of the Sibnowans, they pilfered some trifling articles occasionally
when left in their way. The retainers of the court showed much the
same mean intriguing spirit which is too often found in courts,
and always in Eastern ones; and the rajah himself seldom requested
any favor from me directly, but employed some intermediate person
to sound me--to get whatever was required for himself if possible,
if not for the rajah. I took the hint, and always expressed my
wishes through the interpreter when not present myself. In this way
we were enabled to grant or refuse without the chance of insult or
offence. The suite of the rajah consists principally of slaves, either
purchased or debtors: they are well treated, and rise to offices of
some note. The Panglima rajah was a slave-debtor, though we did not
know it for some time after our arrival. I never saw either cruelty
or undue harshness exercised by the great men during my stay, and in
general their manners were affable and kind to those about them. The
Rajah Muda Hassim is a remarkably short man, and slightly built;
about 45 years of age; active and intelligent, but apparently little
inclined to business. His disposition I formed the highest estimate
of, not only from his kindness to myself, but from the testimony of
many witnesses, all of whom spoke of him with affection, and gave him
the character of a mild and gentle master. Muda Hassim's own brother,
Muda Mahammed, is a reserved and sulky man, but they spoke well of him;
and the rajah said he was a good man, but given to fits of sulkiness.
"Der Macota, unlike other Malays, neither smokes tobacco nor chews
sirih. He sought our society, and was the first person who spoke to
me on the subject of the trade. His education has been more attended
to than that of others of his rank. He both reads and writes his own
language, and is well acquainted with the government, laws, and customs
of Borneo. From him I derived much information on the subject of the
Dyaks, and the geography of the interior; and if I have failed to put
it down, it is because I have not departed from my general rule of
never giving any native statements unless they go far to verify my
own actual observations. I parted from the rajah with regret, some
six or seven miles down the river. Never was such a blazing as when
we left Sarawak; twenty-one guns I fired to the rajah, and he fired
forty-two to me--at least we counted twenty-four, and they went on
firing afterward, as long as ever we were in sight. The last words
the Rajah Muda Hassim said, as I took my leave, were--'Tuan Brooke,
do not forget me.'
"Among the curiosities in my possession are spears, swords, and
shields, from various tribes; a coat of mail, made to the northward of
Borneo, and worn by the pirates; specimens of Sakarran Dyak manufacture
of cloth, and Sarebus ditto; ornaments and implements of the Sibnowans;
and, last not least, a gold-handled kris, presented me by the rajah,
which formerly belonged to his father, and which he constantly wore
himself. I likewise presented him with a small English dagger, with
a mother-of-pearl handle; and my favor was so high with him, that he
used always to wear my gift, and I, to return the compliment, wore his.
"The climate of Sarawak is good, and is seldom hot: the last eight or
ten days were oppressive, but until then we could sleep with a blanket,
and seldom found it too warm in the day. Rain at this season falls
in great quantities; and from imprudence, our crew suffered on their
first arrival from colds and rheumatism; but getting more careful,
we had latterly no sick-list.
"Farewell to Sarawak! I hope to see it again; and have obtained a
promise from the rajah that he will go with me to Borneo, and show
me every part of the country by the way.
"I may here state the result of some inquiries I have made respecting
the government of Borneo. The form of government may be considered
aristocratic rather than oligarchical: it is ruled by the sultan, but
his power is kept in check by four great officers of government. These
are, the Rajah Muda Hassim, the Bandar, in whose hands is the
government of the country; Pangeran Mumin, the Degadon, the treasurer,
or, as Mr. Hunt says, controller of the household of the sultan;
Pangeran Tizudeen, Tumangong, or commander-in-chief; and Pangeran
Kurmaindar, the Pen-damei, or mediator and interceder. This officer
is the means of communication or mediation between the sultan and
his Pangerans; and in case of condemnation, he sues for the pardon or
mercy of his sovereign. Mr. Hunt, in his short but excellent paper on
Borneo, mentions some other officers of state: I will not follow him,
but in the names, as well as duties of these officers, his account
agrees with my information. Further than this, I have not yet learned,
therefore state not; for I am not _manufacturing_ a book, but gaining
information. I may add, however, that these offices are elective,
and not hereditary: as far as I yet know, I am inclined to believe
the election rests with the chief Pangerans of the state; not only
those in office, but others. When I reach Borneo I can procure more
ample details.
"_23d._--Quitted the Royalist at the entrance of the Morotaba,
and accompanied by Pangerans Subtu and Illudeen, set sail for the
river Sadung.
"The town called Songi is of considerable size, and the entire
population along the river may certainty be reckoned at from 2000
to 3000 persons, independent of Dyaks. The country has a flourishing
aspect, but the soil is represented as bad, being soft and muddy. There
is a good deal of trade from this river, and it annually sends several
large prahus to Singapore: two were lying off the town when we arrived,
and two others had sailed for that place twenty days before. The
produce of the country is bees-wax, birds'-nests, rice, &c. &c., but
they seem to be procured in less abundance than in the other contiguous
rivers. There is nothing peculiar about the Malay population, except
that, generally speaking, it struck me, they appeared better off than
the people of Sarawak, or others I have visited hereabouts. We ascended
the river by night, anchored a short distance from the Songi, in a
tide-way like a sluice, and entered the smaller river shortly after
daylight. Having sent the Pangerans ahead to advise Seriff Sahib of our
arrival, we pulled slowly up to the campong of the Data Jembrong, where
we brought up to breakfast. Data Jembrong is a native of Mindanao,
an Illanun and a pirate; he is slightly advanced in years, but stout
and resolute-looking, and of a most polite demeanor--as oily-tongued
a cut-throat as a gentleman would wish to associate with. He spoke
of his former life without hesitation, and confessed himself rather
apprehensive of going to Singapore. He was remarkably civil, and sent
us a breakfast of some fruit, salt fish, stale turtles' eggs, and
coffee sweetened with syrup; but spite of all this, his blood-thirsty
education and habits prejudiced me against him. Breakfast finished,
we went forward to visit Seriff Sahib, who received us in an open
hall; promised to get us as many animals as he could now; regretted
our short stay, and assured me he would collect more by the time I
returned. Among these is to be a mias pappan, living or dead. I at
the same time offered ten dollars for the skeleton belonging to the
hand already in my possession, and a less sum for the parts. Being the
first Europeans Seriff Sahib had ever met, he was rather puzzled to
know what we were like; but we had every reason to be satisfied with
his kindness and the civility of his people: the inhabitants, though
crowding to see us, are by no means intrusive, and their curiosity
is too natural to be harshly repressed. I need hardly remark here
how very erroneously the position of the Sadung river is laid down in
the charts, it being placed in the bay, to the westward of Santobong,
and nearly in the position of the Samatan river.
"_25th._--The last night was passed off Datu Jembrong's house, and I
left him with a firm impression that he is still a pirate, or at any
rate connected with them. He resides generally at Tawarron, to the
northward of Borneo Proper, where his wives and children now are,
and he has come here to superintend the building of a prahu. The
people about him speak of his pursuits without disguise, and many
informed us the prahu near his house is intended for a piratical
vessel. Nothing could exceed the polite kindness of our rascally host,
and I spent the rainy evening in his house with some satisfaction,
acquiring information of the coast to the northward, which he is well
able to give.
"In the morning we dropped down with the last of the ebb to the mouth
of the Songi, and took the young flood to proceed up the Sadung. Beyond
the point of junction with the Songi the Sadung retains an average
breadth of from three-quarters of a mile to a mile. The banks continue
to be partially cleared, with here and there a few Dyaks residing in
single families or small communities on their ladangs or farms. The
Dyak campong, which terminated our progress up the stream, consists
of three moderately long houses inhabited by Sibnowans. The manners,
customs, and language of the Sibnowans of the Sadung are the same as
those of their Lundu brethren; they are, however, a wilder people,
and appear poor. Like other Dyaks, they had a collection of heads
hanging before the entrance of their chief's private apartments. Some
of these heads were fresh, and, with the utmost _sang-froid_, they
told us they were women's. They declared, however, they never took any
heads but those of their enemies, and these women (unhappy creatures)
had belonged to a distant tribe. The fresh heads were ornamented with
fowl's feathers, and suspended rather conspicuously in separate rattan
frames of open work. They professed themselves willing to go with
me up the river to the mountains; and on the way, they informed me,
were some large Malay towns, beside some more campongs of their own
countrymen. Farther up they enumerated some twenty tribes of Dyaks,
whose names I thought it useless to preserve. Late in the evening we
set off on our return, and anchored once again near Datu Jembrong's
house.
"_26th._--Again visited Seriff Sahib. His name and descent are
Arabic; his father, an Arab, having married a daughter of the Borneo
Rajah. The Malays evidently honor this descent, and consider his birth
very high. His power, they say, equals his family; as he is, in some
measure, independent; and were he to instigate the Sadung country to
take arms against Borneo, it is very probable he would overthrow the
government, and make himself Sultan of Borneo. In person, this noble
partakes much of his father's race, both in height and features, being
tall and large, with a fine nose and contour of face. His manners are
reserved but kind; and he looks as if too indolent to care much about
acquiring power; too fat for an active traitor, though a dangerous
man to oppress. We were the first Europeans he had ever seen; but,
on our second visit, he lost much of his previous reserve, and
was curious in examining our arms and accoutrements. We, as usual,
_exchanged_ presents; mine consisting of some nankeen, red cloth,
knife, scissors, and handkerchief; while he gave me the shield of a
great Kayan warrior, a Bukar spear, a goat, fowls, and our dinner
and breakfast daily. He promised me specimens of the arms of all
the Dyak tribes, and plenty of animals, particularly my much-desired
mias pappan; and I, in return, agreed to bring him two small tables,
six chairs, and a gun. Subsequently to our interview he sent me a
tattooed Dyak, the first I had seen. The lines, correctly and even
elegantly laid in, of a blue color, extended from the throat to his
feet. I gained but little information; yet the history of the poor
man is curious, and similar to that of many other unfortunates. He
represented himself as a chief among his own people in the country
of Buyat, five days' journey up the Cotringen river (_vulgo_ Coti
river). Going in his canoe from the latter place to Banjamassim, he
was captured by Illanun pirates, with whom he was in bondage for some
time, but ultimately sold as a slave to a resident of Sadung. It was
now five years since he became first captive; but having lately got
money enough to buy his liberty, he is again a freeman; and having
married, and turned to the religion of Islam, desires no longer to
revisit his native country. The language of the tribe of Buyat he
represents as entirely Malay. I made him a small present for the
trouble I had given him, and he departed well content.
"About three o'clock in the afternoon we had a heavy thunder-storm,
with lightning as vivid as the tropics produce. Torrents of rain
descended, and continued a great part of the night; but, sheltered by
our kajangs or mats, we managed to keep tolerably dry. Indeed, the
voyager on this coast must be prepared for exposure to heavy rains,
and considerable detention from thick and cloudy weather. The latter
obstruction, of little moment or even agreeable to those making a
passage, is a cause of much vexation in surveying the coast, as for
days together no observations are to be had.
"_27th._--About 7 A. M. we quitted Songi, and dropped down as far as
Tanjong Balaban, a low point forming the larboard entrance into the
Sadung river, and bounding the bay, which lies between it and Tanjong
Sipang. Coming to this point gave us a good offing for our return,
and enabled me to take a round of angles to finish the survey as far
as this point and Pulo Burong, which lies off it. We crossed over
the sand flats with a light breeze, and reached the Royalist at 4
P.M. In the evening the Datu Jembrong, who had preceded us from Sadung,
spent the evening aboard. He expressed his willingness to accompany
me next season: whether I shall take him is another question; but,
could he be trusted, his services might be highly useful.
"Our Pangerans arrived early this morning from Sadung; and to-morrow
was fixed for our departure, when an unforeseen occurrence caused a
farther detention. The day passed quietly: in the evening I was ashore,
and took leave of the Pangerans Subtu and Illudeen, who returned to
Sarawak, leaving the Panglima Rajah to pilot us out. The first part of
the night was dark; and the Panglima in his prahu, with twelve men,
lay close to the shore, and under the dark shadow of the hill. About
nine, the attention of the watch on deck was attracted by some bustle
ashore, and it soon swelled to the wildest cries; the only word
we could distinguish, however, being 'Dyak! Dyak!' All hands were
instantly on deck. I gave the order to charge and fire a gun with a
blank cartridge, and in the mean time lit a blue light. The gig was
lowered, a few muskets and cutlasses thrown into her, and I started
in the hope of rescuing our poor Malay friends. The vessel meanwhile
was prepared for defence; guns loaded, boarding-nettings ready for
running up, and the people at quarters; for we were ignorant of the
number, the strength, or even the description of the assailants. I
met the Panglima's boat pulling toward the vessel, and returned with
her, considering it useless and rash to pursue the foe. The story is
soon told. A fire had been lit on the shore; and after the people had
eaten, they anchored their boat, and, according to their custom, went
to sleep. The fire had probably attracted the roving Sarebus Dyaks,
who stole upon them, took them by surprise, and would inevitably have
cut them off but for our presence. They attacked the prahu fiercely
with their spears; five out of twelve jumped into the water, and swam
ashore; and the Panglima Rajah was wounded severely. When our blue
light was seen they desisted; and directly the gun fired, paddled
away fast. We never saw them. The poor Panglima walked aboard with a
spear fixed in his breast, the barb being buried, and a second rusty
spear-wound close to the first; the head of the weapon was cut out,
his wounds dressed, and he was put to bed. Another man had a wound from
a wooden-headed spear; and most had been struck more or less by these
rude and, luckily, innocuous weapons. A dozen or two of Dyak spears
were left in the Malay boat, which I got. Some were well-shaped, with
iron heads; but the mass simply pieces of hard wood sharp-pointed,
which they hurl in great numbers. Fire-arms the Dyaks had none,
and during the attack made no noise whatever; while the Malays, on
the contrary, shouted lustily, some perhaps from bravery, most from
terror. The force that attacked them was differently stated; some
said the boat contained eighty or a hundred men, others rated the
number as low as fifty; and, allowing for an exaggeration, perhaps
there might have been thirty-five--not fewer, from the number of
spears thrown. Being fully prepared, we set our watch, and retired
as usual to our beds; the stealthy and daring attack, right under
the guns of the schooner, having given me a lesson to keep the guns
charged in future. The plan was well devised; for we could not fire
without the chance of hitting our friends as well as foes, and the
deep shadow of the hill entirely prevented our seeing the assailants.
"_29th._--I considered it necessary to dispatch a boat to Sarawak to
acquaint the rajah with the circumstance of the attack made on his
boat. The wound of the Panglima was so severe, that in common humanity
I was obliged to wait until all danger for him was past. He was soon
well; and, as with natives in general, his wound promises favorably; to
a European constitution a similar wound would be imminently dangerous.
"_30th._--Took the long boat, and sounded along the edge of the sand;
soundings very regular. In the evening Mr. Williamson returned in
the gig, and a host of Pangerans; the Pangeran Macota at the head. He
urged me much to go and see Muda Hassim. The rajah, he said, desired
it so much, and would think it so kind, that I consented to go up
to-morrow. I am very desirous to fix their good feelings toward us: and
I was prompted by curiosity to see the rajah's _menage_ as his guest.
"_October 1st._--We had a heavy pull against tide, and arrived at
Sarawak about 4 P.M. We had eaten nothing since breakfast at 8; and we
had to sit and talk, and drink tea and smoke, till 8 in the evening;
then dinner was announced, and we retired to the private apartments--my
poor men came willingly too! The table was laid _a l'Anglaise_, a good
curry and rice, grilled fowls, and a bottle of wine. We did justice
to our cheer; and the rajah, throwing away all reserve, bustled about
with the proud and pleasing consciousness of having given us an English
dinner in proper style; now drawing the wine; now changing our plates;
pressing us to eat; saying, 'You are at home.' Dinner over, we sat,
and drank, and smoked, and talked cheerfully, till, tired and weary,
we expressed a wish to retire, and were shown to a private room. A
crimson silk mattress, embroidered with gold, was my couch: it was
covered with white gold-embroidered mats and pillows. Our men fared
equally well, and enjoyed their wine, a luxury to us; our stock of
wine and spirits having been expended some time.
"_2d._--Once more bade adieu to our kind friends; reached the vessel
at 4 P.M., and got under weigh directly. At dusk anchored in the
passage between the sands.
"_3d._--Five A.M. under weigh. Clear of the sands about mid-day,
and shaped our course for Singapore.
"_4th._--Strong breeze from w.s.w. Beating from leeward of Datu to
Pulo Murrundum, in a nasty chop of a head sea."
CHAPTER V.
Summary of information obtained during this
visit to Borneo.--Geographical and topographical
observations.--Produce.--Various Dyak tribes.--Natural
history.--Language.--Origin of Races.--Sail from
Singapore.--Celebes.--Face of the country.--Waterfall.
Mr. Brooke's journal continues his observations on the people and
country he had just left; and, I need hardly say, communicates much
of novelty and interest in his own plain and simple manner.
"_Oct. 5th._--Just laying our course. I may here briefly
recapitulate the information acquired during the last two months and
a half. Beginning from Tanjong Api, we have delineated the coast as
far as Tanjong Balaban, fixing the principal points by chronometer and
observation, and filling in the details by personal inspection. The
distance, on a line drawn along the headlands, may be from 120 to
130 miles, the entire coast being previously quite unknown.
"Within this space are many fine rivers, and some navigable for
vessels of considerable burden, and well calculated for the extension
of commerce, such as Sarawak, Morotaba, and Sadung. The others, equally
fine streams, are barred, but offer admirable means for an easy inland
communication; these are the Quop, Boyur, Riam, Samarahan, Lundu,
Samatan, &c. In our excursions into the interior of the island, most
of these streams have been ascended to a distance of 25 or 30 miles,
and some further. We traced the Samarahan river for 70 or 80 miles from
its mouth, and passed through portions of the intermediate streams of
the Riam, Quop, and Boyur. The Morotaba, which is but another mouth
of the Sarawak, we passed through several times from the sea to its
junction with that river. The Lundu and Sadung rivers were likewise
ascended to the distance of near 30 miles; and plans of all these
rivers have been taken as accurately as circumstances would permit,
by observations of the latitude and longitude, and various points,
and an eye-sketch of the distance of each reach and the compass
bearing. The entrances into the Sarawak and Morotaba were carefully
examined, and the former accurately laid down. The productions of
the country attracted our attention, and the articles best fitted
for commerce have been already enumerated. Among these are, first,
minerals; say gold, tin, probably copper, antimony-ore, and fine
white clay for pipes. Secondly, woods of the finest descriptions,
for ship-building, and other purposes; besides aloes wood (_lignum
aloes_), and arang or ebony wood, canes, and ratans. To these may be
added, among vegetable productions, sago, compon, rice, &c., &c.
"The wild nutmeg was found growing on the islands of Sadung and
Sumpudin in abundance and perfection, proving that by cultivation it
might be brought into the market as cheap, and probably as good,
as those produced in the Moluccas. We have various specimens
of ores and stones, which, on being tested, may prove valuable
commodities. Among these is decomposed granite rock (I believe),
containing minute particles of what we conceive to be gold, and an
ore believed to be copper. Besides the articles above enumerated,
are birds' nests and bees' wax in considerable quantities, and others
not worth detailing here. We have been able, during our residence
with the Borneons, to continue on the most friendly terms with them,
and to open a field of research for our subsequent inquiries in the
proper season. My attention has been anxiously directed to acquiring
a knowledge of the Dyak tribes; and for this purpose I passed ten days
among them at Lundu. I have made such vocabularies of the language of
the Sibnowans and Lundus as my means allowed; and a further addition
of their various dialects will furnish, I conceive, matters of high
importance to those interested in tracing the emigration of nations. I
may here briefly notice, that the nation of Kayans, included under the
common denomination of Dyak, are a tattooed race, who use the sumpitan,
or blow-pipe; while the other Dyak tribes (which are very numerous)
are not tattooed, and never use the blow-pipe.
"The arms and instruments of many tribes are in my possession; and
among the Sibnowans I had the opportunity of becoming acquainted with
their habits, customs, and modes of living.
"The appellation of the Dyak tribes near the coast is usually the
same as the rivers from which they originally came. The Dyaks of
Sibnow come from the river of that name, just beyond Balaban Point,
though large communities are dispersed on the Lundu and the Sadung. The
same may be said of the Sarebus tribe (the most predaceous and wild
on the coast), which has powerful branches of the original stock on
the Skarran river. Beyond Point Balaban is a bay--between that point
and Point Samaludum; the first river is the Sibnow; the next the
Balonlupon, which branches into the rivers of Sakarran and Linga;
passing Tanjong Samaludum you come to the two islands of Talison;
and between it and the next point, or Banting Marron, lies the Sarebus
river. Between Banting Marron and Tanjong Siri are the Kaleka river,
a high mountain called Maban, and then Rejong, the chief river of the
Kayans. I may here likewise correct some of the statements and names
usually current in England. The Idaan, represented as a Dyak tribe,
are a hill people, and probably not Dyaks; and the name Marat is
applied by the natives of Borneo to the various wild tribes, Dyaks
and others, without any specific meaning.
"In natural history the expedition has done as much as was in its
power, by forming collections of birds, animals, and reptiles; but
these collections are as small as our means. Specimens of woods and
seeds have been preserved; but the season was not the proper one for
flowers, as very few indeed were seen. The specimen of the hand of
the mias pappan and the head of an adult mias rombi will, I believe,
go far to establish the existence of an animal similar to the Pongo
of the Count Buffon. I have little doubt that I shall be able in the
ensuing season to establish the fact, or set it at rest forever;
though I confess myself greatly inclined to think that the former
will be the case. I here leave the coast with an excellent prospect
for the coming year; and I would not now have quitted it so soon,
but for the want of provisions, added to which, the change of the
monsoon, bringing squally and dark weather, greatly interferes with
our further progress in surveying.
"_Nov. 22d, 1839._--The Malayan language has been compared to the
_lingua franca_ of Europe. They are both, indeed, used by various
nations in their commercial transactions; but, beyond this, nothing
can be more unjust or absurd than the comparison. The _lingua franca_
is a jargon compounded at random, devoid of grammar or elegance; the
Malayan, on the contrary, is musical, simple in its construction,
and well calculated for the expression of poetry. It boasts many
dialects, like the Italian, of superior softness, and, like the
Italian, it is derived from many sources, refining all to the most
liquid sounds by the addition of a final vowel. I fully concur with
Mr. Marsden in his opinion that the Malayan tongue, though derived
from the Sanscrit, the Arabic, the Hindoostani, &c., &c., is based
on the language which he calls the Polynesian; a language which may
be considered original (as far as we know), and which embraces so
vast an extent of geographical surface. The proof of this rests
mainly on the fact that the simple wants of man, as well as the
most striking features of nature, are expressed in the Polynesian;
while the secondary class of ideas is derived from the Sanscrit, or
some other language, and usually grafted in a felicitous manner on the
original stem. By an original language, I must be understood, however,
to mean only a language which can not be derived from any other
known tongue. I seek not to trace the language of Noah, or to raise
a theory which shall derive the finished and grammatical Sanscrit,
the pure and elegant Greek, from some barbarous stock, whether Celtic
or Teutonic. Such inquiries are fitted for those with leisure and
patience to undertake a hopeless task, and learning enough to achieve
better things. When we look for the origin of languages we are lost,
for those existing afford us no help. They present some affinities,
as might be expected; but their discrepancies are irreconcilable; and,
amid many equally good claims, who shall be able to demonstrate the
only one which is right? Supposing even that all languages agreed as
to primary ideas, it would be difficult to determine the original; but
when this primary class of ideas is expressed by sounds entirely and
totally different, the task becomes utterly hopeless, and the labor
as vain as that of Sisyphus. Indeed, it would be very difficult to
show how languages, derived from one stock, could possibly differ so
far in their expression of the simplest ideas and wants as not to be
mutually traceable: and truly, until this is done (which I conceive
impossible), I am content to rest in the belief that there are more
original languages _than one_--a conclusion agreeable to common sense,
and consonant with the early history of the Hebrews.
"To trace the original identity of distant races, and their early
migrations, through the affinity of language, is indeed a limited
task compared with the other, but one both feasible and useful. To
further this labor, the smallest additional information is valuable;
and the dialects of the rude people inhabiting the interior of the
islands of Borneo and Celebes would be highly important. Previously,
however, to instituting such a comparison, as far as in my power, I
propose taking a brief glance at the different races whose languages
may be included under the common name of Polynesian.
"In the first place, the Malayan. Issuing from the interior of Sumatra,
there is reason to conjecture, and even facts to prove, that originally
the dialect of Menangkabau resembled the other dialects of its
birthplace. The gradual extension of a warlike race gave a polish to
the language; additional wants, increasing luxury, extended knowledge,
and contact with the merchants of many Eastern nations, all combined
to produce the Malayan in its present form. But, during the progress
of this change, the radical Polynesian stock remained; and we find,
consequently, that the words necessary to mankind in their earliest
stage bear a striking and convincing resemblance to the dialects of
Rejong and Lampung, in Sumatra. Subsequent improvements were largely
adopted from the Sanscrit and the Arabic; but the fact of the primary
ideas being expressed in the Polynesian must preclude the conclusion
of either of these being the source whence the Malayan is derived,
its improvement and extension being alone referable to them. Marsden
positively states his inability to trace the Polynesian to any other
Eastern language; and, at the same time, he has demonstrated, in
what he considers a convincing manner, the identity of this language
from Madagascar and the islands of the Pacific to the Philippines
and Sumatra.
"It may here be incidentally remarked, that while so many authors are
endeavoring to prove that the Asiatic archipelago was peopled from the
Western Continent, [8] they overlook the fact of the radical difference
of language. Unless the roots of the language can be traced either to
India, Cambodia, or other parts, it must follow, as a matter of course,
that the islands were peopled at a time previous to the introduction of
the language now spoken on the Continent; else how are we to account
for the simple dialects of a rude people being radically distinct
from the language of the mother country? If the Dyaks of Borneo
and the Arafuras of Celebes and New Guinea speak a dialect of the
Polynesian, it will go far to prove an original people as well as an
original language, that is, as original as the Celtic, the Teutonic,
the South American; original because not derived from any known source.
"These brief remarks on the Malayan will, I believe, apply to the
language of the Island of Java, which, equally improved and enlarged by
the addition of Sanscrit and Arabic words, and differently modified,
retains, nevertheless, its radical Polynesian stock and its distinct
written character, as do likewise the dialects of the islands of Bally
and Lombock. The districts of Rejong, Lampung, &c., in Sumatra, retain
the original language in a much higher degree, possess distinctive
written characters, and have little intermixture of Sanscrit or
Arabic. Celebes, or Bugis-land, with a distinct language and character,
will probably be found to follow the same rule; and the Philippines,
including Mindanao, according to Marsden, possess the same language,
though altered and modified into the Tagala tongue.
"Madagascar, so far removed, exhibits in its language a dialect of
Tagala, or, strictly speaking, of Polynesian; and the South Sea islands
present striking and almost convincing proofs of the same origin.
"The inquiry ought to be pushed to the languages of the Mexicans and
Peruvians of South America; and, as far as our knowledge permits,
their identity established or disproved; for the language of this
by-gone people would go far toward tracing the course of emigration,
it being evident that a strong argument would be raised in favor of
the migration proceeding from east to west, if the language is common
to South America and Sumatra, and not traceable to any country of
the Continent of India.
"It remains, however, to inquire into the language of the interior
tribes of Borneo, Celebes, and New Guinea; and, on such inquiry,
should they be found to possess the same primary roots as the rest, I
believe the conclusion must ultimately be arrived at of the existence
of a Polynesian language common to this vast geographical extent,
and distinct from the languages of Asia. In tracing this identity,
we can only, of course, find it in few instances in the cultivated
Javanese and Malayan languages. Discrepancies must naturally be great
from the intermixture, from early recorded times, of all languages
in the archipelago; but, nevertheless, if the radical affinities be
striking, they will be conclusive in establishing the original identity
of all the races before mentioned; for, without this original identity,
how can we account for these affinities of language? It may, indeed,
be urged that this language has gradually crept into the dialects of
Java and Menangkabau. But, in the first place, the affinities will
be found in the very roots of the language--in the expressions for
the primary and necessary ideas, which seldom alter in any people;
in the next, there is a high degree of improbability in supposing
a rude dialect to supplant a substantial portion of a more polished
one; and, thirdly, we must not overlook the collateral evidence of the
similarity of conformation pervading the entire race from Polynesia to
the archipelago--distinct alike from the Caucasian and the Mongolian.
"In tracing the identity of this language, we may reckon the dialects
of the Dyaks of Borneo, &c., as the lowest step of the ladder; those
of the Pacific islands next; and so through the dialects of Sumatra and
Tagala, up to the Malayan and Javanese. For this purpose, a comparative
view of all must be attained; and Eastern scholars should point out,
when possible, the words taken from Sanscrit and other languages. For
my own part, these remarks are made as a sketch to be enlarged on,
and to assist in obtaining the vocabularies of the Dyaks and Arafuras.
"_Dec. 6th._--In looking over Marsden's admirable Introduction to his
Malayan Grammar, I find I have taken many of his views in the foregoing
remarks; but I consider that his opinions may be pushed to conclusions
more extended than he has ventured upon. Having described the 'exterior
circumstance' of the Malayan language, he proceeds to point out those
more original languages from whence we may presume it to be derived.
"'The words of which it consists may be divided into three classes,
and that two of these are Hindoo and Arabic has been generally
admitted. The doubts that have arisen respect only the third, or
that original and essential part which, to the Malayan, stands in the
same relation as the Saxon to the English, and which I have asserted
to be one of the numerous dialects of the widely-extended language
found to prevail, with strong features of similarity, throughout
the archipelago on the hither side of New Guinea, and, with a less
marked resemblance, among the islands of the Pacific Ocean.... To
show the general identity, or radical connection of its dialects,
and, at the same time, their individual differences, I beg leave to
refer the reader [9] to the tables annexed to a paper on the subject
which I presented, so long ago as the year 1780, to the Society of
Antiquaries, and is printed in vol. vi. of the _Archaeologia_; also,
a table of comparative numerals, in the appendix to vol. iii. of
Captain Cook's last voyage; and likewise to the chart of ten numerals,
in two hundred languages, by the Rev. R. Patrick, recently published
in Valpy's _Classical, Biblical and Oriental Journal_.'
"Again, Marsden states:
"'But whatever pretensions any particular spot may have to precedence
in this respect, the so wide dissemination of a language common to all
bespeaks a high degree of antiquity, and gives a claim to originality,
as far as we can venture to apply that term, which signifies no more
than the state beyond which we have not the means, either historically
or by fair inference, of tracing the origin. In this restricted sense
it is that we are justified in considering the main portion of the
Malayan as original, or indigenous, _its affinity to any Continental
tongue not having yet been shown_; and least of all can we suppose
it connected with the monosyllabic, or Indo-Chinese, with which it
has been classed.'
"When we find an original language bearing no traces of being derived
from any Continental tongue, we must conclude the people likewise to
be original, in the restricted sense, or to have emigrated with their
language from some source hitherto unknown. The Sanscrit and Arabic
additions to the original stock are well marked, though the period
of the introduction of the former is hidden in darkness. It may be
inferred, however, that it came with the Hindoo religion, the remains
of which are yet in existence. It is evident that the question resolves
itself into two distinct branches: first, the original language, its
extent, the coincidence of its dialects, its source, &c.; secondly,
its discrepancies, whence arising, &c.; together with the inquiry into
the probable time and mode of the introduction of the Sanscrit. With
the latter of these inquiries I have nothing to do; on the former
subject I may collect some valuable information by adding the dialects
of the savage tribes in the interior of Borneo and Celebes.
"The alphabets of the island of Java, of the Tagala, and the Bugis
of Celebes, are given by Corneille, Le Brun, Thevenot, and Forrest."
Of Mr. Brooke's sojourn at Singapore it is unnecessary to speak; and
I accordingly resume my extracts with his ensuing voyage from that
port, and again for the Indian archipelago, but contenting myself,
for reasons which need not be entered into at length, with only
that portion of his excursion to Celebes and among the Bugis which
particularly bears upon his Borneon sequel.
"_Dec. 7th, 1839._--Off Great Solombo. Never was there a more tedious
passage than ours has been from Singapore. Sailing from that place on
the 20th of November, we have encountered a succession of calms and
light winds--creeping some days a few miles, and often lying becalmed
for forty-eight hours without a breath to fill the sails. Passing
through the straits of Rhio and Banca, and watering at the islands of
Nanka, we stood thence for Pulo Babian, or Lubeck, lay a night becalmed
close to the Arrogants Shoal, of which, however, we saw nothing,
owing, probably, to the smoothness of the water. The depths are
greater than laid down on Horsburgh's chart, varying from thirty-six
to thirty-eight fathoms. A calm now keeps us off the greater Solombo,
which it is my intention to visit when in my power.
"_8th._--Drifted past Solombo in the calm, and, reluctant to return,
I continued on my voyage with a light breeze from the eastward. This
island is well laid down: from the sea we made its longitude 113 deg. 31';
Horsburgh gives it 113 deg. 28', which, considering that both observations
were made afloat, is a near enough approximation. The land is low, with
a single hill, showing round from the westward, flat or wedge-shaped
from the eastward. The smaller Solombo is low: both wooded.
"_10th._--In sight of Laurots islands.
"_11th._--In the evening stood within four miles of the southern island
of Laurots. These islands are high and steep, covered with wood, and
uninhabited. The easternmost island seems, by bearings, badly laid
down, being not far enough to the southward and eastward. The southern
island is called by the Bugis, Mata Siri; the eastern, Kadapangan;
the northern one, Kalambow. A few rocks and islets lay off them;
water deep, and apparently clear of all danger.
"_15th._--Turatte Bay. After experiencing continued calms and light
winds, and falling short of water, we at length reached this bay, and
anchored in 7 1/2 fathoms. The first impression of Celebes is highly
favorable. The mountains present a bold outline, and rise in confused
masses, until crowned by what is commonly called _Bonthian Hill_. The
sides of the mountains slope gradually to the sea, and present an
inviting and diversified aspect of wood and cleared land. I dispatched
a boat for water to a small village; and the crew were well received
by the natives, after they became assured that they were not pirates.
"The outline of this bay, in Norie's chart, is not badly laid down; but
on either side there is great room for improvement and survey. Turatte
Bay may be fairly so called, as the district (or _negri_) generally
bears that name. The larboard point of Turatte Bay (approaching)
is called Malasaro, which comes next to Tanjong Layken in the
charts. The starboard point is Tanjong Uju Loke, and from Uju Loke
the land runs low to the point of Galumpang, the entrance of a river
marked in the charts. From Uju Loke (named Bolo Bolo in Norie's chart)
the coast-line runs for 12 or 15 miles to Bolo Bolo, which space is
entirely omitted. Bolo Bolo forms the entrance of Bonthian Bay.
"_16th._--Bonthian Bay. Called Banthi by the natives: is in lat. 5 deg.
37' S.; long. 119 deg. 33' E.
"The bay is pretty well laid down by Dalrymple. The small Dutch fort,
or intrenchment, stands rather on the eastern bight of the bay, and
is composed of a few huts, surrounded by a ditch and green bank. Two
guns at each corner compose its strength, and the garrison consists of
about thirty Dutchmen and a few Javanese soldiers. We were cordially
and hospitably received by the officers, and, after a great deal
of trouble and many excuses, here procured horses to carry us to
the waterfall. Bonthian Hill is immediately over this place; a flat
space of rice-ground, some miles in extent, only intervening. The
hill (so called) may with more propriety be designated as a range
of mountains, which here attain their utmost height and sink down
gradually almost across the peninsula. The view is most attractive;
the green and refreshing rice-grounds in the front and behind, the
slopes of the mountain and its various peaks, verdant grass, wooded
chasms, and all the inequalities which mark a mountain region. I am
very anxious to mount to the summit; but so many difficulties are
thrown in the way, that I almost despair--horses and guides are not
to be procured. The Dutch say the natives are lazy: the natives say
they dare not go without authority--either way we are the losers;
but the officers certainly exert themselves in our favor. Coming
into this bay, there is some difficulty in distinguishing the fort;
but coming from the westward, its position may readily be known by
steering for two lumps on the S.E. declivity of the mountain.
"_18th._--Got ashore by seven o'clock to start for the waterfall;
till nine we were detained by want of horses, but after much trouble
the animals were procured, and off we started. Our party consisted
of three doctors (him of the fortification, a German gentleman,
Treacher, and Theylingen) and myself, with native guides. The road
lay for a short way along the beach, then struck into the thicket,
and we commenced a gradual ascent. The scenery was most striking and
lovely; glades and glens, grassy knolls and slopes, with scattered
trees, and the voice of a hidden river which reached our ears from
a deep valley on the left hand. Proceeding thus for some distance,
we at length plunged into the wood, and descending a short space,
found ourselves by the sides of the stream below the waterfall. Here,
breakfast being finished, we all stripped to our trowsers, entered the
water, and advanced along the bed of the river to the fall. The banks
on either hand, steep and woody, prevented any other mode of approach,
and the stream, rushing down and falling over huge rocks, rendered the
only available one any thing but easy. At times we were up to the arms,
then crawling out and stealing with care over wet and slippery stones,
now taking advantage of a few yards of dry ground, and ever and anon
swimming a pool to shorten an unpleasant climb. In this manner we
advanced about half a mile, when the fall became visible; thick trees
and hanging creepers intervened; between and through the foliage we
first saw the water glancing and shining in its descent. The effect
was perfect. After some little further and more difficult progress,
we stood beneath the fall, of about 150 feet sheer descent. The wind
whirled in eddies, and carried the sleet over us, chilling our bodies,
but unable to damp our admiration. The basin of the fall is part of a
circle, with the outlet forming a funnel; bare cliffs, perpendicular on
all sides, form the upper portion of the vale, and above and below is
all the luxuriant vegetation of the East; trees, arched and interlaced,
and throwing down long fantastic roots and creepers, shade the scene,
and form one of the richest sylvan prospects I have ever beheld. The
water, foaming and flashing, and then escaping amid huge gray stones
on its troubled course--clear and transparent, expanding into tranquil
pools, with the flickering sunshine through the dense foliage--all
combine to form at scene such as Tasso has described. [10]
"Inferior in body of water to many falls in Switzerland, it is superior
to any in sylvan beauty; its deep seclusion, its undisturbed solitude,
and the difficulty of access, combine to heighten its charms to
the imagination. Our descent was like our upward progress. Having
again dressed ourselves, we rested for a time, and then started
for Bonthian--wearing away the rest of the day shooting amid the
hills. Theylingen and myself procured many specimens, and returned
laden with our spoil, and charmed with our day's excursion. The
waterfall is called Sapo, from the neighboring green peak of that
name. The height of our resting-place (not the highest point of the
day's ascent) was 750.5 feet, by Newman's two barometers; yet this is
the bottom of the mountain on its western slope. The officers dined
with us; they are very polite and kind; and we retired early to rest,
all the better for our excursion.
"_19th._--At 6 A.M. went with the Dutch officers shooting, and reached
the same stream which forms the waterfall. The scenery delightful;
water cool, and pleasant for bathing, a luxury I enjoyed in high
perfection. Aboard again to a late breakfast."
CHAPTER VI.
Dain Matara, the Bugis,--Excursions in Celebes.--Dispute
with the Rajah's son-in-law.--Baboon shot.--Appearance of the
country.--Visit the Resident.--Barometrical observations.--The
Bugis.--Geography.--Coral reefs.--Visit the Rana of
Lamatte.--Population and products of the country.
"I may here, indulge in a brief episode to introduce my Bugis
companion, Dain Matara,--which properly I should have done long
since,--a man well born, and, for his country, affluent and educated:
he offered at Singapore, to accompany me on this expedition,
refusing all pay or remuneration, and stating that the good name
to be acquired, and the pleasure of seeing different places, would
recompense, him. At first, I must own this disinterestedness rendered
me suspicious; but conceiving that the greatest utility might accrue
from his assistance, I agreed to take him with his servant. Our long
passage seemed to make us well acquainted, and, I believe, raised a
mutual confidence. Dain, cheerful, good-tempered, and intelligent,
gained daily on my esteem; and, by the time we reached Bonthian,
I was rejoiced that he accompanied me.
"On this day we succeeded in procuring horses and guides for the
_hill_, as it is called.
"_20th._--By 8 A.M. our preparations were complete, and we mounted our
horses; a motley group we formed, composed of Treacher, Theylingen,
and myself, two seamen (Spence and Balls), Dain Matara, a son-in-law
of the Bonthian Rajah, and six footmen. Provisions for four days
were on one of the horses, and a goodly stock of fowling-pieces,
beside my mountain barometer. The plain was soon cleared; and three
hours' ride by a good horse-path brought us to the village of Senua,
consisting of a dozen houses. We found the inhabitants hospitable,
and took refuge from a heavy squall of wind and rain in the best
house the place afforded. During the rain the thermometer sunk to
76 deg., but rose directly afterward. At half-past one the rain cleared
away, but we were detained until three by the Bugis getting their
dinner. During this time I strayed along the sparkling stream which
runs by the village, and after enjoying a bathe, called to horse, in
order to proceed. Great was my surprise, however, to be told by the
rajah's son-in-law that he supposed we were going back. A discussion
arose,--he declaring there was no road for the horses, and that we
could not go farther; while I insisted, if he would not advance, I
should continue my journey on foot. After much time had been lost,
our guide set off slowly and reluctantly, and we proceeded for two
or three miles, when, finding our head turned to the southward,
and the road descending, I again called a halt, and was once more
told it was not possible to mount farther. A scheme had been formed
to lead us round about, and take us gradually down, until too late
to mount again. A long parley ensued; both parties seemed resolute;
and it finished by our unloading the baggage-horse, and making a
small parcel of necessaries to carry on foot. Our guide, however,
never intended matters to go so far, and we finished at last by taking
half the horses, and allowing him (the rajah's son-in-law) to descend
with the rest. This being done, we had to retrace our road nearly to
Senua; and a little before sunset our party crossed an awkward stream,
and struck into the path up the mountains.
"A short walk brought us to Lengan Lengang about dusk, where we put
up for the night. For the first time, this day I saw the cockatoo
in his wild state; I was within easy shot of two of them, but the
stream lay between us, and I felt some compunction at shooting these
favorite birds.
"Lourikeets were in great plenty, and many varieties of pigeons
and doves, beside other birds. Near Lengan Lengang we encountered a
community of dusky baboons, many of them very large and powerful:
after a hard scramble I got within shot of them; on my firing the
first barrel, the young ones and females made off, but the leaders
of the band disdained to retreat, and, with threatening gestures and
grimaces, covered the retreat of their party. The consequence was,
I sacrificed one of these heroes, of a large size: he fell from
the branch on which he was seated into a deep valley, and his fall
completed the rout of the rest. Spence, in the mean time, having
arrived, I dispatched him to secure the prize; but at the bottom
of the valley the baboons again showed themselves, and manifested
every inclination to fall on him; another barrel put them to flight,
and between us we dragged the fallen hero to the horses.
"The village of Lengan Lengang consists of about a dozen houses, is
situated in a nook of the hills, and surrounded by cocoanut-trees. We
were accommodated in the principal house, and treated with every
hospitality. The people of the hills are poor, though their land is
fertile, and produces abundance of rice and Indian corn. Theft is
said to be common, especially of horses, and the care of the horses
belonging to travelers devolves on the villagers; for, in case a
horse is stolen, a fine is imposed on the population in general. To
prevent this misfortune, our hosts kept playing, as long as we could
bear it, on an instrument like a clarinet; but at twelve o'clock,
after trying in vain to sleep, we were obliged to stop the noise and
risk the horses.
"This instrument is about three feet long, with five or six holes,
and a flat mouthpiece on the cane-tube; the sound is musical when
gently breathed into, but in their usual mode of playing, it emits
frightful shrieks. During the night the thermometer sunk to 69 deg.,
and we were glad of our blankets.
"_21st._--Rose between five and six. Took some barometrical
observations, and at half-past six continued our upward way. As far as
Lengan Lengang the country presents beautiful woodland and mountain
scenery, with luxuriant vegetation, thickly wooded valleys, and
sparkling streams. The flats and valleys are occupied by rice-grounds,
and the pasturage is of the very finest description for all sorts
of cattle: the grass short and rich. Lengan Lengang is the last
point where the cocoanut or other palms is seen; but there it grows
remarkably well, and attains a great height. Above this point the wood,
generally speaking, becomes smaller, and the vegetation more coarse,
the hills being covered with a rank high grass, and ferns, similar to
those in England. Three hours' slow traveling brought us to the village
of Lokar, situated at the foot of the peak of that name. I mounted,
while breakfast was preparing, nearly to the top, and up to the belt
of thick wood which surrounds the last 100 or 150 feet. Observations
were repeated here, showing a great fall of the mercury, and afterward
taken at the village. Lokar consists of a few scattered huts, situated
amid gardens of fruit and vegetables: the mango, the guava, the jack,
and the plantain, with cabbages and Indian corn, compose the stock of
the inhabitants; the latter constitutes their principal food, and is
granaried for use in large quantities, not only in the house, but on
frameworks of bamboo without, on which it is thickly hung in rows,
with the head downward, to protect it from the weather. The highest
summit, called Lumpu Balong, was visible when we first arrived, some
miles in advance: at breakfast-time the clouds entirely covered it,
and rolled down upon Lokar in heavy rain, driving us into a miserable
hut for shelter.
"During the rain the thermometer fell to 70 deg.. At 3 P.M. started for
some huts we saw at the foot of Lumpu Balong, having first sent our
horses back to Lengan Lengang, being assured their farther progress
was impracticable. When, however, our guide from Lokar understood
our intention of reaching Lumpu Balong, he objected to proceed, on
the plea that the village in advance was inhabited by people from
Turatte. We managed to coax him on, and, after two and a half hours'
walk, reached Parontalas. The country, ascending gradually, becomes
more and more wild; the wood stunted; and the streams, finding their
way through masses of rock, leave strong traces of their occasional
violence. Parontalas stands on the edge of the forest which skirts
Lumpu Balong, from which it has not long been retrieved. It consists
of a few scattered huts, far apart. Potatoes, tobacco, and coffee
are grown here, the former in great abundance. Like the rest of the
people, their food consists of Indian corn; and, as in the other
villages, they breed horses. Our host of Parontalas was very polite,
and gave us some fowls and the accommodation of his house; the latter,
indeed, was needful, for we were all badly provided with covering,
and the mountain air was raw and cold. To our request for guides to
ascend the mountain he replied, that it was necessary to consult the
head man of the district, who lived some little distance off. In the
interim we made ourselves very happy, determined to ascend with or
without a guide or guides. We lay down at nine, in order to be ready
for the morning's work, the thermometer standing at 59 deg. in the house.
"_22d._--At five, when we rose, the thermometer stood at 56 deg. in the
air. The head man had arrived, and willingly gave us guides, warning
us only of the difficulty of the ascent. Nothing could exceed the
kindness and attention of this simple old man. He remembered the time
the English had the country, and spoke of his people's respect for our
nation, and their regret that we had left the country. At 6 A.M. we
started, and, after walking about a mile, plunged into the belt of
forest which environs Lumpu Balong. From six till half-past two,
we were alternately ascending and descending, scrambling over rocks
or fallen timber, or cutting a path through the most tangled thicket
that ever tore the wayfarer. To add to our difficulty, during the
latter half of the ascent, we could procure no water, which caused us
considerable suffering. At length, however, we stood at the summit of
Lumpu Balong, and looked, on either side, over a vast sea of fleecy
clouds which rolled beneath. The top is a narrow ridge, covered with
stunted trees and luxuriant moss; and a second peak to the westward,
of rather less elevation, is separated from it by a declivity. I
climbed to the top of a tree to look along the mountain, and make
certain that we were at the highest point; and having convinced myself
of this, I proceeded with the barometric observations, which were
concluded by 3 P.M.; for it was highly necessary to get down before
night overtook us in the dreary and inhospitable forest. Our thirst,
too, was tormenting, and increased by hearing the fall of a torrent
deep in the valley to the northward.
"As far as I could observe, the northern face of the mountain was
perpendicular, and the ascent on that side would have been attended
with greater difficulty than from the point we chose. Our way down was
easier, and the descent was made as expeditiously as the nature of the
ground would allow. Having fairly worn our shoes off our feet, we were
pierced by brambles and thorns in a cruel manner. Our guide, in going
down, discovered a tree with a bee-hive in it containing great store of
honey. The Bugis instantly attacked the tree, on seeing which my first
impression was, that it would be prudent to retreat to a distance;
but their composure induced me to remain; and, to my surprise, when
the tree was laid open, the honey was taken out in large quantities,
and the bees brushed off the comb without offering to sting. Though
flying round about us, and on the hands of all the people, they were
quite innocent of harm; and I conclude, therefore, they were different
from the common honey-bee. The honey was excellent, and refreshed us
for a few minutes, but ultimately only added to our thirst. At length,
about five, we reached a stream of water, and quenched our thirst with
draughts of the coolest and most limpid mountain stream. The Bugis,
though, like ourselves, they had been, without any water from nine
o'clock in the morning till five in the evening, refused to drink,
alleging that it was highly injurious after eating honey! Glad were we,
just at dark, to get clear of the forest; and a short walk farther
brought us to our temporary dwelling. We were much knocked up, and
very much torn with the thorns. A brief dinner and a delicious cigar,
and we lay down to sleep--not even incommoded by the cold, which kept
us awake the last night.
"_23d._--Having, through mistake, forgotten to bring up any money,
I had no means of repaying the obligations received from these
simple hill-people except _by promises_. My old friend ordered the
guide of yesterday to accompany us to the plains, to receive his own
payment, and to bring some things, for others, up there. At ten we
hobbled forth, very foot-sore, and lacking proper covering for our
feet. The prospect of four or five hours' walk to Lengan Lengang
was very unpleasant; and in proportion to our expected pain was
our gratification on meeting _all_ our horses within three miles
of Parontalas--_all_ the horses, which all the men swore could not,
by any possibility, ascend, were there; and though without saddles
and bridles, or the Bugis, we were too glad to mount. We went down
by another road. Four hours brought us to Lengan Lengang, where we
rested for two hours, and, remounting, reached Bonthian at about seven
o'clock in the evening. Thus concluded this interesting excursion
into a hill-region, where we attained the summit of Lumpu Balong,
never before reached by European. The Dutch officers informed me that
three successive residents of Bonthian had attempted it and failed.
"Before I conclude, I may take a brief survey of the country. The
hills are generally rounded or flat at top, and not offering any
rugged or broken peaks. The scenery about Senua and Lengan Lengang
is the perfection of woodland, with the picturesque characteristics
of a mountain region; the climate admirably suited, thence to the
summit, for Europeans, and capable of producing most European and
tropical plants to perfection. Coffee plantations on these hills
might be undertaken with certainty of success, and there is much in
the character of the natives which would facilitate the operation. To
the westward of Lokar, and somewhat lower, is a fine extensive plain,
which we just skirted coming down; it was cultivated in every part,
apparently with rice. The vegetable productions of the hills I have
briefly mentioned; but I may add that the wild raspberry was found,
and that wild guavas grow in the greatest abundance, as well as
oranges and grapes.
"The animal kingdom, of course, we had no time to examine; but
the babi rupa is said to be found in the higher regions; and in
the forest, toward the summit of Lumpu Balong, we saw the dung of
wild cattle, which, I am told, are a species of urus. The birds we
saw were, paroquets of two sorts, viz., the lourikeet and a small
green paroquet; a large green pigeon, specimens of which we got;
the cream-colored pigeon of Borneo, beside many others.
"The geological formation of the region I must leave to others. I
brought down some specimens of the rocks and loose stones, which are,
I believe, pummice; if so, I presume the formation volcanic, similar
to Java.
"_24th._--Called on the resident, and saw the rajah.
"_25th._--Christmas, with his jolly nose and icy hands. Here it is
hot enough! Were I to live in this country, I should retire for the
season up in the mountains. Dined with the Resident of Bonthian; by no
means surprised that he and his congeners had failed in their attempt
to climb the mountain: the resident is a native! In the evening,
celebrated the day with all sorts of sports.
"_26th._--Mid-day, quitted Bonthian, and ran to Boele Comba or Compa.
"_27th._--I have little to say of Boele Comba. It is situated in the
bight of the bay, eastward of Bonthian. There appears to be much,
confusion an Horsburgh's Directory about the latitude and longitude,
and the hill called after the place. This hill is the last of the
mountain-range, somewhat detached, covered with wood, of moderate
elevation, and peaked. From our anchorage, two miles from the fort,
it bore N.N.W. The fort is similar to the one at Bonthian, the country
pretty, and nearly level. The Bonthian mountains (_i. e._ Lumpu Balong
and the range) show steep and well in the background. Game abounds,
by report. Europeans are subject to complaints of the eyes, and
occasionally to fever. Any vessel running in should be very careful,
for the charts are defective, and Boele Comba reef is said to project
farther to the westward of the fort than laid down.
"I here subjoin a list of our barometric observations, the upper
barometer reduced to the rate of the lower and standard one:--
_Senua, 20th December, 1839._
Bar. A. D.
1. 30.054 86 87 3h 15m P.M.
2. 28.385 79 80
_Lengan Lengang, 21st December._
Bar. A. D.
1. 30.119 79 78.5 6h 30m A.M.
2. 27.988 70 69.5 6h 0m "
_Lokar Peak, 21st December, 100 feet below summit._
Bar. A. D.
1. 30.095 90 90 10h 30m A.M.
2. 25.975 79 79
_Hill on the way to Lumpu Balong, 22d December._
Bar. A. D.
1. 30.144 90 90 Mean between 8h and noon.
2. 23.612 ... 66 65.5 10h 40m A.M.
_Lumpu Balong Peak, 22d December._
Bar. A. D.
1. 30.146 89.5 90.5 2h 0m P.M.
2. 23.718 64 63.5 2h 30m "
_28th._--Leaving Boele Comba after breakfast, we shaped our course
for Point Berak.
"With the richest country, the natives of these places are poor, and
they bear no good-will to their rulers. It is likewise certain that few
active measures are resorted to for forwarding the development of the
native character and local resources. The resident is a Macassar-born
native, and this fact alone speaks volumes for the mode and manner of
government. The people of the country I found a kind and simple race;
and though they are accused of pride and laziness by their masters, I
could not, circumstances taken into consideration, discover any trace,
of the latter vice, and the former I can readily forgive them. That the
Bugis are not an indolent race is well proved by their whole conduct,
wherever circumstances offer any inducement to exertion. Even here,
the cleared country and the neat cultivation prove them far otherwise;
and traces are visible everywhere on the mountains of their having
been more highly cultivated than at present. Coffee plantations
once flourished, and being destroyed during a war, years ago, have
never been renewed. Inclosures and partition walls in decay are very
frequent, marking the former boundary of cultivation. That they are
independent enough to be proud, I honor them for! The officers allowed
they were courageous, and one designated them as '_fier comme un
Espagnol_;' and, on the whole, no doubt exists in my mind that they
are people easily to be roused to exertion, either agricultural or
commercial; their sullen and repulsive manners toward their masters
rather indicating a dislike to their sway, and the idleness complained
of only proving that the profits of labor are lower than they ought
to be.
"Nothing so strongly marks the degradation of a race or nation as
a cheerful acquiescence under a foreign rule. The more virtuous,
the more civilized, the more educated a people, the more turbulent,
indolent, and sullen, when reduced to a state of subjection; the
fewer qualities will they have to please their masters, when foreign
rule is oppressive, or looks solely to the advantage of the country
of the conquerors, and not of the conquered. There is no race will
willingly submit: the bayonet and the sword, the gallows and the whip,
imprisonment and confiscation, must be constantly at work to keep
them under.
"Leaving Boele Comba, as I before said, we shaped our course for
Tanjong Berak, passing between that point and the north island. The
passage is excellent, clear of all danger, as far as we could see,
with deep water. The rocks reported to exist by Horsburgh, and put
down on Norie's chart, have no existence. The Bugis prahus always use
this channel, and know them not; and the captain of a Dutch cruiser
informed me that he had often run through the passage at night,
and that it was clear of all danger or obstruction.
"My own observation went to verify the fact, for every part of the
passage appears deep and clear, and we passed over the spots where
these rocks are marked. Approaching Tanjong Berak, there is a sandy
beach, where a vessel may get anchorage in case the wind dies away. The
tides in the channel are strong; here, and along the south coast, the
ebb runs from the eastward, the flood from the west. Having cleared
the channel, we hauled into the Bay of Boni, which, although running
in a north and south direction, has some headlands extending to the
eastward. There are two places marked on the chart, viz. Berak and
Tiero; but these, instead of being towns or villages, are names of
districts; the first, reaching from Tanjong Berak, about 15 miles,
till it joins Tiero; Tiero, extending from the northern confine of
Berak to Tanjong Labu, 15 miles in all. To the northward and eastward
is a high island called Balunrueh. From Tanjong Berak the water along
the coast is very deep; no soundings with 50 fathoms. Toward evening we
went into Tiero Bay, a pretty secluded spot. The southern part of the
bay is foul, having a reef visible at low water, The northern headland
has a spit running from it, with 14 fathom half a mile (or little more)
off. Within the bay there is no bottom with 50 fathom till near its
northern extremity, where the water shoals suddenly. Running in, in
a squall, we got into 3 1/4 fathom, where we anchored. This country
belongs to the Dutch as far as Point Labu.
"_29th._--Calm all day. Sounded the bay: the southern point has a
steep coral reef nearly a quarter of a mile off. The southern part of
the bay is inclosed by a reef, part of which seems to me artificial,
for the purpose of catching fish, and is shallow: outside the reef
the water is deep dose to. The western shore is lined by a reef
close to it, and the water is deep. The center part of the bay is
very deep; and within 100 yards of where we lay we got no bottom
at 17 fathoms. The next cast was 6, and the next 3 fathoms--hard
clay bottom. A small river discharges itself, in the northern part,
inside the anchorage: there is a considerable depth within, but the
bar is shallow. The scenery on the river is beautiful; wild at first,
and gradually becoming undulating and cultivated. Birds are plenty:
cockatoos abound, of which I shot two. This part of the country
possesses considerable geological interest: the hills round the bay
are of slight elevation; and 80 or 100 feet from the sea level are
large masses of coral rock, upheaved by some convulsion.
"_30th._--Under weigh. Brought up in 23 fathoms, amid the coral shoals.
"_31st._--Visited the island of Balunrueh for sights.
"Tanjong Labu is bluff and bold, and of moderate elevation. The
land from thence trends away westward, forming a long bay, which,
for distinction, may be called Labu Bay, at the N.W. part of which is
the town of Songi, the principal place about here. Between Labu and
Songi are the following countries: Kupi Kajang, Pakah, Buah, Kalaku,
Baringan, and Magnarabunbang; each with a separate petty rajah. The
country is moderately well cleared; about an average height, near
the shore, of 300 feet; with few habitations about, but no towns or
villages. The mountain range throws a spur downward to the sea in the
vicinity of Songi and the fine peaks of Lumpu Balong; and Wawa Karang,
with the _confusion_ of mountains, form a magnificent background to the
prospect. From Magnarabunbang the land runs away to the eastward toward
Tanjong Salanketo, which must be described on a future occasion. In
the offing are several islands and numerous reefs. The principal
island is Balunrueh, 400 or 500 feet high; bold, steep, and covered
with trees, except at its northern extremity; where it is low, with a
sandy point. Off this north point runs a coral reef; direction 354 deg.,
and extent about two miles. At the S.W. angle of the island there
is likewise a reef stretching half a mile; and the shores all round,
for a short distance, are lined with coral, outside of which the water
is apparently very deep. We could get no soundings with a hand lead,
half a mile to the westward.
"Off Balunrueh, to the S.E., is the islet of Liang Liang; next to
Liang Liang, Tanbunoh, which is larger; then Cadingareh Batantampeh
(the largest), Cotingduan Lariahriah, and two islands to the northward
called Canallo. Balunrueh and Batantampeh have both indifferent
fresh water; the former near the low point at the north end. From
the S.W. end of Liang Liang a reef runs out. The bearing, from the
small hill, over the watering place of Balunrueh, was 77 deg.. The reef
extends to 104 deg., and stretches to the southward beside: near Liang
Liang it is narrow. Its limits I could not define.
"Between Liang Liang and Tanbunoh a narrow reef, and spits from most
of the islands. Two patches lay off Balunrueh about two miles and a
half: the first, bearing 319 deg., is narrow, and about half a mile long;
the other smaller, and bearing 287 deg.. Part of the day we passed on
Balunrueh was very hot; but we got satisfactory sights, and sailed
round the island, returning to the vessel about six in the evening.
"I must now return to Labu, to give some account of the channel
between the reefs; as, from the appearance of the charts, it would
seem impossible to navigate the western side of the bay. Having
passed Tanjong Labu at a distance of 3 1/2 or 4 miles, get the
flat-topped hill called Bulu Tanna ahead. Close to the Bulu Tanna,
in the foreground, is another smaller hill, with two remarkable tufts
on the top: this hill, just open to the eastward of Bulu Tanna,
is the leading mark for Songi, which stands to the westward. This
mark will lead clear, or very nearly so, of all the reefs; but as
there is uncertainty in the distance from Tanjong Labu, it may be
necessary to diverge from the straight course in order to avoid some
of the patches. In the daytime the coral is seen with the greatest
ease; and a vessel with a lookout aloft, and a breeze, may proceed
with safely. The first reef is on the starboard hand; part was dry,
and shoal-water about. This first patch is in the proximity of the
great reef called Melompereh, which runs to the eastward. Beside
these, the channel is occasionally lined by patches on either hand;
but is nowhere narrower than a mile and a half, and is anything but
difficult navigation, so far, in clear weather.
"_Jan. 4th, 1840._--Arrived off Songi on the 1st, and dispatched a
boat to the old Rajah, or Rana, of Lamatte. Our answer was, that not,
having been to Boni, she feared receiving us, as she felt inclined;
but if we would come to her house, she should be glad to see us. On
the following day, accordingly, we paid our visit at her residence,
which is situated about four miles up the river Tanca.
"The old lady is about sixty-five years of age, and (as she herself
informed us) very poor. Her house, indeed, bears every mark of great
poverty; having a leaky roof, and not sufficient matting to cover
the bamboo floors. She was kind, and seemed pleased to see us; said
I should henceforward be her son, and that nothing but her fear of
the Boni Rajah prevented her receiving me in the best way in her
power; but pointing to the roof and to the floor, she repeated,
'I have nothing.' I presented her with such articles as I thought
would be acceptable to her; and, in return, she gave me a sarong.
"The population of the country is considerable. The last district
I mentioned was Magnarabunbang. The town of that name, on the
sea-side, consists of forty-five houses, beside a roving population of
Badjows. Along the coast to the eastward, and close to Magnarabunbang,
is the river of Songi. Proceeding up this shallow river, the first
village is Tacolompeh, situated on the right bank, and consisting of
twenty houses; nearly opposite the village of Pangassa, of thirteen
houses; and farther up, about four miles from the river's mouth,
stands Songi, consisting of 164 houses on the right bank, and 60
on the left. These places are all on the low ground, and surrounded
with cocoanut-trees.
"Joining the district of Magnarabunbang, on the coast, is Lamatte, the
rajanate of our old friend. The river, like the Songi, is shallow, and
running through very low ground. On the left bank is Luppa, consisting
of twenty-five houses; then, on the right, Ulo, twenty-two houses;
and above Ulo comes Ullue, of twelve houses. Nearly opposite Ullue is
Balammepa, with thirty houses, superior to the others, and inhabited by
merchants who have made money in trading voyages. This village sends
yearly two prahus to Singapore. Just above Ullue stand seven houses;
and above Balammepa is Tanca, the residence of the Rajah of Lamatte,
consisting of ten houses. The streams, as I have said, are shallow,
and the ground low, neatly cultivated with Indian corn, and abounding
in cocoanut-trees. Behind Magnarabunbang there is a narrow strip
of low ground, which becomes wider as it advances to the eastward,
with here and there moderate elevations.
"The chief product of the country is coffee, which is grown in great
quantities on the hills, but brought down as it ripens, when it
is collected by the Bugis merchants for their yearly shipments. The
yearly produce is stated to be 2000 coyans or 80,000 peculs. The price
is from fifteen to sixteen Java rupees the pecul; to which must be
added the trouble and expense of storing and clearing from the inner
skin. Tortoise-shell is brought in by the Badjows; and mother-of-pearl
shells in any quantity there is demand for. Taking the number of houses
in this small space, above described, the total will be 308 houses,
which reckoned at the low estimate of eight persons for each house,
will give 2464 inhabitants; this, however, is far below the proper
estimate, as there are villages scattered between the rivers, and
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