← catalogue

Great African Travellers: From Mungo Park to Livingstone and Stanley

by William Henry Giles Kingston · English · Gutenberg #21391 · 833,919 chars · public domain (US)

The Project Gutenberg eBook of Great African Travellers: From Mungo Park to Livingstone and Stanley
    
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States,
you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located
before using this eBook.

Title: Great African Travellers: From Mungo Park to Livingstone and Stanley

Author: William Henry Giles Kingston


        
Release date: May 8, 2007 [eBook #21391]

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/21391

Credits: Produced by Nick Hodson of London, England


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GREAT AFRICAN TRAVELLERS: FROM MUNGO PARK TO LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ***




Produced by Nick Hodson of London, England




Great African Travellers, from Mungo Park to Livingstone and Stanley, by
W.H.G. Kingston.

________________________________________________________________________

At the beginning of the nineteenth century, the coastal parts of Africa
were of course well-known, and in any of the territories round the
coasts there were European officials, such as consuls, and European
traders.  This becomes very apparent as you read this book, as many of
the travels described involve sorties from an existing European base.

On the other hand the very sources of the various major rivers were not
on the map, and the object of many of the travellers was to find these
sources, for instance that of the Nile, or rather, that of any one of
its major components, such as the Red Nile and the Blue Nile.

On the whole the various regions they passed through had already a
settled African regime.  In most cases this regime was friendly, but in
some cases the opposite was the case.  These explorations and travels
could only take place if the native rulers could be brought to give
assistance, and in most cases this was forthcoming.  On the other hand
some of the lesser-known early travellers were murdered, and the goods
they travelled with, stolen.  It is really only those travellers who
were able to complete their self-imposed tasks, and return to Britain,
that have become famous.

Written in an easy style, this book is a good read, and very worth the
while of even today's teenagers.  There are too many names to make an
audiobook very easily, so we have not done so, and have no comments on
that.

________________________________________________________________________

GREAT AFRICAN TRAVELLERS, FROM MUNGO PARK TO LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY, BY
W.H.G. KINGSTON.

FROM MUNGO PARK TO LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY.



CHAPTER ONE.

INTRODUCTORY.

INTRODUCTION--THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATION--LEDYARD--LUCAS--FIRST INFORMATION
RESPECTING THE NIGER, OR QUORRA, AND THE GAMBIA--TIMBUCTOO HEARD OF--
THOMPSON AND JOBSON'S VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA--MAJOR HAUGHTON'S EXPEDITION
AND DEATH.

When the fathers of the present generation were young men, and George
the Third ruled the land, they imagined that the whole interior of
Africa was one howling wilderness of burning sand, roamed over by brown
tribes in the north and south, and by black tribes--if human beings
there were--on either side of the equator, and along the west coast.

The maps then existing afforded them no information.  Of the Mountains
of the Moon they knew about as much as of the mountains in the moon.
The Nile was not explored--its sources unknown--the course of the Niger
was a mystery.  They were aware that the elephant, rhinoceros,
cameleopard, zebra, lion and many other strange beasts ranged over its
sandy deserts; but very little more about them than the fact of their
existence was known.  They knew that on the north coast dwelt the
descendants of the Greek and Roman colonists, and of their Arab
conquerors--that there were such places as Tangiers, Tripoli, Tunis,
Algiers with its piratical cruisers who carried off white men into
slavery; Morocco, with an emperor addicted to cutting off heads; Salee,
which sent forth its rovers far over the ocean to plunder merchantmen;
and a few other towns and forts, for the possession of which Europeans
had occasionally knocked their heads together.

From the west coast they had heard that ivory and gold-dust was to be
procured, as well as an abundant supply of negroes, whose happy lot it
was to be carried off to cultivate the plantations of the West Indies
and America; but, except that they worshipped fetishes, of their manners
and customs, or at what distance from the coast they came, their
ignorance was profound.  They possibly were acquainted with the fact
that the Portuguese had settlements at Loango, Angola, and Benguela; and
that Hottentots and Kaffirs were to be found at the Cape, where a colony
had been taken from the Dutch, but with that colony, except in the
immediate neighbourhood of Cape Town, where ships to and from India
touched, they were but slightly acquainted.

Eastward, if they troubled their heads about the matter, they had a
notion that there was a terribly wild coast, inhabited by fierce
savages, and northward, inside the big island of Madagascar, that the
Portuguese had some settlements for slaving purposes; that further north
again was Zanzibar, and that the mainland was without a town or spot
where civilised man was to be found, till the Strait of Bab el Mandeb,
at the mouth of the Red Sea, was reached.  That there, towards the
interior, was the wonderful country of Abyssinia, in which the Queen of
Sheba once ruled, and Nubia, the birthplace from time immemorial of
black slaves, and that, flowing northward, the mysterious Nile made its
way down numerous cataracts, fertilising the land of Egypt on its annual
overflows, till, passing the great city of Cairo, it entered the
Mediterranean by its numberless mouths.

About Egypt, to be sure, more was known than of all the rest of the
continent together--that there were pyramids and ruined cities, colossal
statues, temples and tombs, crocodiles and hippopotami in the waters of
the sacred river, and Christian Copts and dark-skinned Mahommedans
dwelling on its banks.  But few had explored the mighty remains of its
past glory, or made their way either to the summits or into the
interiors of its mountain-like edifices.

Those who had read Herodotus believed in a good many wonders which that
not incredulous historian narrates.  The late discoveries of
Livingstone, however, prove that Herodotus had obtained a more correct
account of the sources of the Nile than has hitherto been supposed.
Indeed, free range was allowed to the wildest imagination, and the most
extravagant stories found ready believers, there being no one with
authority to contradict them.

When, however, Bruce and other travellers made their way further than
any civilised man had before penetrated into the interior of the
continent, their accounts were discredited, and people were disappointed
when they were told that many of their cherished notions had no
foundation in truth; in fact, up to the commencement of the present
century the greater part of Africa was a _terra incognita_, and only by
slow and painful degrees, and during a comparatively late period, has a
knowledge of some of its more important geographical features been
obtained.

We will now set forth and accompany in succession the most noted of the
various travellers who, pushing their way into that long unknown
interior, bravely encountering its savage and treacherous tribes, its
fever-giving climate, famine, hardships, dangers and difficulties of
every description, have contributed to fill up some of the numerous
blank places on the map.  Although, by their showing, sand enough and to
spare and vast rocky deserts are to be found, there are wide districts
of the greatest fertility, possessed of many natural beauties--elevated
and cool regions, where even the European can retain his health and
strength and enjoy existence; lofty mountains, magnificent rivers and
broad lakes, and many curious and interesting objects, not more
wonderful, however, than those of other parts of the globe, while the
inhabitants in _every_ direction, though often savage and debased,
differ in no material degree from the other descendants of Ham.

Although our fathers knew very little about Africa, their interest had
been excited by the wonders it was supposed to contain, and they were
anxious to obtain all possible information respecting it.  This was,
however, no easy matter, as most of the travellers who endeavoured to
make their way into the interior had died in the attempt.

A society called the African Association, to which the Marquis of
Hastings and Sir John Banks belonged, was at length formed to open up
the mighty continent to British commerce and civilisation.

The first explorer they despatched was Ledyard, who as a sergeant of
marines had sailed round the world with Captain Cook, and after living
among the American Indians had pushed his way to the remotest parts of
Asiatic Russia.  If any man could succeed, it was thought he would.

He proceeded to Egypt, intending to make his way to Sennaar, and thence
to traverse the entire breadth of the African continent; but, seized
with an illness at Cairo, he died just as he was about to start with a
caravan.

The next traveller engaged by the society was Mr Lucas, who, having
been captured by a Salee rover, had been several years a slave in
Morocco.  He started from Tripoli, but was compelled by the disturbed
state of the country to the south of that place to put back.

It should have been said that it had been long known that two mighty
rivers flowed through the interior of Africa, one called the Gambia and
the other the Niger, or Quorra; but whereabouts they rose, or the
direction they took, or the nature of the country they traversed in
their course, no exact information was possessed.

From Arab traders, also, accounts had been received of a vast city,
situated near the banks of the Niger, far away across the desert, called
Timbuctoo, said to possess palaces, temples and numberless public
buildings, to be surrounded by lofty walls and glittering everywhere
with gold and precious stones, to rival the ancient cities of Mexico and
Peru in splendour and those of Asia in the amount of its population.

A century and a half before, two sea captains, Thompson and Jobson, sent
out by a company for the purpose, had made their way some distance up
the Gambia in boats, and early in the eighteenth century Captain Stibbs
had gallantly sailed up the same river to a considerable distance, but,
his native crew refusing to proceed, he was compelled to return without
having gained much information.

As a wide sandy desert intervened between the shores of the
Mediterranean and the centre of Africa, it was naturally supposed that
the unknown region could be more easily reached from the west coast than
over that barren district, and, soon after the return of Lucas, Major
Haughton, a high-spirited, gallant officer who had lived some time in
Morocco, volunteered to make his way along the bank of the Gambia
eastward, under the belief that a journey by land was more likely to
succeed than one by water.  Some way up that river is the the town of
Pisania, where an English factory had been established, and a few
Europeans were settled, with a medical man, Dr Laidley.  Leaving this
place, he proceeded to Tisheet, a place in the Great Desert, hoping from
thence to reach Timbuctoo; but, robbed by a Moorish chief, of everything
he possessed, he wandered alone through the desert, till, exhausted by
hunger and thirst, he sat down under a tree and died.  The news of his
fate was brought to Dr Laidley soon afterwards by some negroes.

These expeditions threw no light on the interior of the continent.  A
fresh volunteer, however, Mungo Park, then unknown to fame, was soon to
commence those journeys which have immortalised his name, and which
contributed so greatly to solve one of the chief African problems--the
course of the Niger.



CHAPTER TWO.

TRAVELS OF MUNGO PARK.

PARENTAGE--RETURNS FROM INDIA--SENT OUT BY THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATION--
SAILS FOR AFRICA--ARRIVES AT PISANIA--STARTS WITH A COME EASTWARD--MUMBO
JUMBO--ARRIVES AT KOOJAR--REACHES CAPITAL OF BONDOU--WELCOMED AT THE
CAPITAL OF KAARTA BY KING DAISY--SEIZED AT THE TOWN OF DALLI BY MOORISH
SOLDIERS, AND CARRIED CAPTIVE TO BENOWM--BARBAROUSLY TREATED BY ALI--
TAKEN TO VISIT ALI'S WIFE FATIMA--SHE COMPASSIONATES HIM--ALMOST
STARVED--DIFFICULTY OF OBTAINING WATER--HIS SERVANTS TAKEN FROM HIM--ALI
ATTACKED BY DAISY--PARK AGAIN FALLS INTO ALI'S HANDS--RESOLVES TO
ESCAPE.

Mungo Park, who long ranked as the chief of African travellers, was born
on the 10th of September, 1771, at Fowlshiels, a farm occupied by his
father on the banks of the Yarrow, not far from the town of Selkirk, in
Scotland.

The elder Mr Park, also called Mungo, was a substantial yeoman of
Ettrick Forest, and was distinguished for his unremitting attention to
the education of his children, the greater number of whom he saw
respectably settled in life.  The young Mungo, after receiving with his
brothers a course of education at home under a private tutor, was sent
to the Grammar School at Selkirk, and at the age of fifteen was
apprenticed to Mr Thomas Anderson, a surgeon of that town.  Hence he
removed to the University of Edinburgh, and during his vacations made a
tour with his brother-in-law, Mr Dickson, a distinguished botanist.  On
going to London he was introduced by his relative to Sir Joseph Banks,
whose interest procured for him the appointment of assistant surgeon to
the "Worcester," East Indiaman.  Returning from India, he offered his
services to the African Association, who, notwithstanding the failure of
the first expeditions they had sent out, still determined to persevere
in their efforts.

Possessed of unbounded courage and perseverance, he was admirably fitted
for the task he undertook, and his offer was gladly accepted.

Having received his final instructions from the African Association, he
sailed from Portsmouth on the 22nd of May, 1795, on board the
"Endeavour," an African trader bound for the Gambia, where he arrived on
the 21st of the following month.

His directions were to make his way to the Niger, by Bambook or any
other route, to ascertain the course of that river, and to visit the
principal towns in its neighbourhood, particularly Timbuctoo and Houssa,
and afterwards to return by way of the Gambia or any other route he
might deem advisable.

Houssa is not a city, as was then supposed, but a kingdom or province.

The vessel anchored on the 21st of June at Jillifree, where he landed
and from thence proceeded up the Gambia to Pisania.  The only white
residents were Dr Laidley and two merchants of the name of Ainsley,
with their numerous black domestics.  It is in the dominions of the King
of Yany, who afforded them protection.

Assisted by Dr Laidley, Park here set to work to learn the Mandingo
tongue, and to collect information from certain black traders called
Seedees.  During his residence at Pisania he was confined for two months
by a severe fever, from which he recovered under the constant care of
his host.

A coffle, or caravan, being about to start for the interior of Africa,
Park, having purchased a hardy and spirited horse and two asses,
arranged to accompany it.  He obtained also the services of Johnson, a
negro who spoke both English and Mandingo.  Dr Laidley also provided
him with a negro boy named Demba, a sprightly youth who spoke, besides
Mandingo, the language of a large tribe in the interior.  His baggage
consisted only of a small stock of provisions, beads, amber and tobacco,
for the purchase of food on the road; a few changes of linen, an
umbrella, pocket compass, magnetic compass and thermometer, with a
fowling-piece, two pair of pistols and other small articles.  Four
Mahommedan blacks also offered their services as his attendants.  They
were going to travel on foot, driving their horses before them.  These
six attendants regarded him with great respect, and were taught to
consider that their safe return to the countries of the Gambia would
depend on his preservation.

Dr Laidley and the Mr Ainsleys accompanied him for the two first days,
secretly believing that they should never see him again.

Taxes are demanded from travellers at every town, by the chiefs.

Madina was the first town of any size he reached.  He was here received
by King Jatta, a venerable old man, who had treated Major Haughton with
great kindness.  He was seated on a mat before his hut, a number of men
and women ranged on either side, who were singing and clapping their
hands.  Park, saluting him respectfully, informed him of the purport of
his visit.  The king replied that he not only gave him leave to pass,
but would offer up his prayers for his safety.  He warned him, however,
of the dangers he would encounter, observing that the people in the east
differed greatly from those of his country, who were acquainted with
white men and respected them.

The king having provided a guide, Park took his departure, reaching
Konjowar the next night.  Here, having purchased a sheep, he found
Johnson and one of his negroes quarrelling about the horns.  It appeals
that these horns are highly valued as being easily converted into
sheaths for keeping secure certain charms, called _saphies_.  These
_saphies_ are sentences from the Koran, which the Mahommedan priests
write on scraps of paper and sell to the natives, who believe that they
possess extraordinary virtues.  They indeed consider the art of writing
as bordering on magic; and it is not in the doctrines of the Prophet,
but in the arts of the magician that their confidence is placed.

On the 8th, entering Koloa, a considerable town, he observed hanging on
a tree a masquerading habit, made of bark, which he was told belonged to
Mumbo Jumbo, a sort of wood demon, held greatly in awe, especially by
the female part of the community.  This strange bugbear is common to all
the Mandingo towns, and much employed by the pagan negroes in keeping
their women in subjection.  As the Kaffirs, or pagan Africans, are not
restricted in the number of their wives, every one marries as many as he
can conveniently maintain; and it frequently happens that the ladies
disagree among themselves, their quarrels sometimes reaching to such a
height that the authority of the husband can no longer preserve peace in
his household,--in such cases the interposition of Mumbo Jumbo is called
in and is always decisive.  This strange minister of justice, who is
supposed to be either the husband or some person instructed by him,
disguised in the dress which has just been mentioned, and armed with the
rod of public authority, announces his coming by loud and dismal screams
in the woods near the town.

He begins the pantomime at the approach of night, and as soon as it is
dark he enters the town and proceeds to the _bentang_, or public
meeting-house, at which all the inhabitants immediately assemble.  The
women do not especially relish this exhibition; for, as the person in
disguise is entirely unknown to them, every married female suspects that
the visit may possibly be intended for her; but they dare not refuse to
appear when summoned.

The ceremony commences with songs and dances, which continue till
midnight, about which time Mumbo fixes on the offender.  The unfortunate
victim being thereupon immediately seized, is stripped naked, tied to a
post, and receives a severe switching with Mumbo's rod, amidst the
derisive shouts of the whole assembly, the rest of the women being the
loudest in their exclamations against their unhappy sister.  Daylight
puts an end to the unmanly revel.

The desert was now to be passed, in which no water was to be procured.
The caravan therefore travelled rapidly till they arrived at Koojar, the
frontier town of Woolli, on the road to Bondou, from which it is
separated by another intervening wilderness of two days' journey.

While crossing the desert, they came to a tree, adorned with scraps of
cloth, probably at first hung up to inform other travellers that water
was to be found near it; but the custom has been so sanctioned by time
that nobody presumes to pass without hanging up something.  Park
followed the example and suspended a handsome piece of cloth on one of
the boughs.  Finding, however, a fire, which the negroes thought had
been made by banditti, they pushed on to another watering-place, where,
surrounded by their cattle, they lay down on the bare ground, out of
gun-shot from the nearest bush, the negroes agreeing to keep watch by
turns, to prevent surprise.

They soon after reached Koorkarany, a Mahommedan town, which contained a
mosque, and was surrounded by a high wall.  The _maraboo_, or priest, a
black, showed Park a number of Arabic manuscripts, passages from which
he read and explained in Mandingo.

Moving on at noon of the 21st of December, the traveller...

This page and the next page are missing.

This page and the previous page are missing.

His fellow-travellers considered it necessary to journey by night till
they could reach a more hospitable part of the country.  They
accordingly started as soon as the people in the village had gone to
sleep.  The stillness of the air, the howling of the wild beasts and the
deep solitude of the forest made the scene solemn and impressive.  Not a
word, except in a whisper, was uttered; and his companions pointed out
to him the wolves and hyaenas, as they glided like shadows from one
thicket to another.

The inhabitants of Bondou are called Foulahs.  They are naturally of a
mild and gentle disposition; but the uncharitable maxims of the Koran
have made them less hospitable to strangers and more reserved in their
behaviour than the Mandingoes.

Leaving Bondou, the caravan entered the kingdom of Kajaaga.  The
inhabitants, whose complexion is jet-black, are called Serrawoollies.
The _dooty_, or chief man of Joag, the frontier town, though a rigid
Mahommedan, treated Park very civilly; but while he was staying there a
party of horseman, sent by the king, arrived to conduct him to Maana,
his residence.  When there, the king demanded enormous duties, and Park
had to pay him the five drachms of gold which he had received from the
King of Bondou, besides which his baggage was opened and everything of
value taken.  His companions now begged him to turn back, and Johnson
declared it would be impossible to proceed without money.  He had
fortunately concealed some of his property; but they were afraid of
purchasing provisions, lest the king should rob him of his few remaining
effects.  They therefore resolved to combat hunger during the day and
wait for another opportunity of obtaining food.

While seated on the ground, with his servant-boy by his side, a poor
woman came up with a basket on her head, and asked Park if he had had
his dinner.  The boy replied that the king's people had robbed him of
all his money.  On hearing this the good old woman, with a look of
unaffected benevolence, took the basket from her head, and presented him
with a few handfuls of ground nuts, walking away before he had time to
thank her.

Leaving Joag in company with thirty persons and six loaded asses, he
rode on cheerfully for some hours till the caravan reached a species of
tree for which Johnson had frequently inquired.  On seeing it he
produced a white chicken which he had purchased at Joag, tied it by a
leg to one of the branches, and then told his companions that they might
safely proceed, as the journey would be prosperous.

This incident shows the power of superstition over the minds of negroes;
for though this man had resided seven years in England, it was evident
that he still retained the superstitions imbibed in his youth.

Koomakary was the birthplace of one of Park's companions from Pisania, a
blacksmith, who had been attentive to him on the road.  On approaching
the place shouts were raised and muskets were fired.  The meeting
between the long-absent blacksmith and his relations was very tender.
The younger ones having embraced him, his aged mother was led forth,
leaning upon a staff.  Every one made way for her as she stretched out
her hands to bid her son welcome.  Being totally blind, she stroked his
arms, hands and face with great care, and seemed highly delighted that
her ears once more could hear the music of his voice.  "It was evident,"
observes Park, "that, whatever may be the difference between the negro
and European, there is none in the genuine sympathies and characteristic
feelings of our common nature."

The king, Dembo Sego, gave the traveller an audience, and appeared
well-disposed towards him.  An escort was also sent to conduct him to
the frontiers of Kaarta.

The capital of that province was reached on the 12th of February, and as
soon as he arrived a messenger came from the king, bidding him welcome,
and a large hut was at once provided for his accommodation.  The people,
however crowded in till it was completely full; when the first visitors
went, another took their place--in this way the hut being filled and
emptied thirteen different times.

Park found the king, whose name was Daisy, surrounded by a number of
attendants, the fighting men on his right-hand and the women and
children on his left.  A bank of earth, on which was spread a
leopard-skin, formed the throne.  Daisy seemed perfectly satisfied with
the account the traveller gave of himself, but warned him of the dangers
in his way on account of the war which was then raging, and advised him
to return to Kason, there to remain till it was over.  Wise as this
advice was, the approaching hot months made it important for him to
proceed, dreading as he did having to spend the rainy season in the
interior of Africa.

Daisy presented him with food, and sent a party of horse men to conduct
him to Jarra, while three of his sons, with about two hundred horsemen,
undertook to accompany him part of the way.

He had evidence of the disturbed state of the country while staying at
the next town he entered.  A body of Moors approached the gates and
carried off the cattle, and one of the horsemen was shot by a Moor.  The
wounded man was brought in, when, as he was borne along, his mother went
before, clapping her hands and enumerating the good qualities of her
son.  The ball had passed through both his legs, and as he and his
friends would not consent to have one of them amputated, he died the
same night.

Going forward, on the 18th they passed through Simbug, the frontier
village of Ludamar.  It was from hence Major Haughton wrote his last
letter, with a pencil, to Dr Laidley.  After leaving the place, when
endeavouring to make his way across the desert, he was murdered by some
savage Mahommedans, who robbed him of everything he possessed.

At this time, while Daisy was employed in fortifying a strong position
among the hills, his territory was overrun by his enemy, Mansong.

On the evening of the 5th of March Park reached the town of Dalli.  Here
the people crowded in so disagreeable a manner to see the white
stranger, that his host proposed, in order to avoid them, going in the
cool of the evening to a negro village called Samee, at a short distance
off.

As he was now within two days' journey of the heathen kingdom of Goumba,
he had no apprehensions from the Moors, and readily accepted the
invitation.  His landlord was proud of the honour of entertaining a
white man, and Park spent the forenoon very pleasantly with these poor
negroes, their gentleness of manner presenting a striking contrast to
the rudeness and barbarity of the Moors.

While thus enjoying himself, greatly to his dismay a party of Moorish
soldiers suddenly appeared in the place.  They were sent, they said, by
their chief, Ali, to convey the white stranger to his camp at Benowm.
If he would come willingly it would be better for him, but come he must,
as they had orders to convey him by force; because Fatima, Ali's wife,
having heard much about Christians, was anxious to see one.  Park,
unable to resist, was compelled to accompany them.  The journey occupied
many days, during which both Park and his attendants suffered much from
thirst.

On the evening of the 12th they came in sight of Benowm, which presented
to the eye a number of dirty-looking tents scattered without order over
a large space of ground.  Among the tents appeared large herds of
camels, cattle and goats.  As soon as he was seen the people who were
drawing water threw down their buckets and, rushing towards him, began
to treat him with the greatest discourtesy; one pulled at his clothes,
another took off his hat, while a third stopped him to examine his
waistcoat buttons.

At length the king's tent was reached, where a number of men and women
were assembled.  Ali was seated on a black leather cushion, clipping a
few hairs from his upper lip, a female attendant holding up a
looking-glass before him.

He enquired whether the stranger could speak Arabic, and being answered
in the negative he remained silent.  The ladies, however, asked a
thousand questions, inspected his apparel, searched his pockets, and
obliged him to unbutton his waistcoat to display the whiteness of his
skin.

In the evening the priests announced prayer.  Before they departed his
Moorish guide told him that Ali was about to present him with something
to eat.  On looking round he saw some boys bringing a wild hog, which
they tied to one of the tent ropes, when Ali made signs to him to kill
and dress it for supper.  Though very hungry, he did not think it
prudent to eat any part of an animal so much detested by the Moors, and
therefore replied that he never touched such food.  The hog was then
untied, in the hopes that it would run at the stranger, the Moors
believing that a great enmity subsists between hogs and Christians.  In
this, however, they were disappointed, for the animal no sooner regained
his liberty than he began to attack indiscriminately every person who
came in his way, and at last took shelter under the couch upon which the
king was sitting.

Park was after this conducted to a hut, where he found another wild
hog--tied there to a stick for the purpose of annoying him.  It
attracted a number of boys, who amused themselves by beating it with
sticks, till they so irritated the animal that it ran and bit at every
person within reach.

A number of people came in and made him take off his stockings to
exhibit his feet, and then his jacket and waistcoat to show them how his
clothes were put off and on.

Day after day he was treated in the same manner.  He was also compelled
to undertake various offices.  First, he was told to shave the head of
one of the young princes, but, unaccustomed to use a razor, he soon cut
the boy's skin, on seeing which the king ordered him to desist.

On the 18th his black servant, Johnson, was brought in as as a prisoner
before Ali by some Moors, who had also seized a bundle of his clothes
left at Jarra.  Of these Ali took possession, and Park was unable to
obtain even a clean shirt or anything he required.  The Moors next
stripped him of his gold, his watch, the amber he had remaining and one
of his pocket compasses.  Fortunately he had hidden the other in the
sand near his hut.  This, with the clothes on his back, was the only
thing Ali now left him.

Ali, on examining the compass, wished to know why the small needle
always pointed to the Great Desert.  Park, unwilling to inform him of
the exact truth, replied that his mother lived far beyond the sands of
the Sahara, and that while she was alive the piece of iron would always
point that way and serve as a guide to conduct him to her.  Ali,
suspecting that there was something magical in it, was afraid of keeping
so dangerous an instrument in his possession.

The Moors now held a council to determine what should be done with the
stranger.  Some proposed that he should be put to death, others that he
should only lose his right-hand, and one of Ali's sons came to him in
the evening and with much concern informed him that his uncle had
persuaded his father to put out his eyes.  Ali, however, replied that he
would not do so until Fatima, the queen, who was at present in the
north, had seen him.

In vain Park begged that he might be permitted to return to Jarra.  Ali
replied that he must wait till Fatima had seen him, and that then he
should be at liberty to go, and that his horse should be restored to
him.

So wearied out was he at last with all the insults he received that he
felt ready to commit any act of desperation.

One day Ali sent to say that he must be in readiness to ride out with
him, as he intended to show him to some of his women.  They together
visited the tents of four different ladies, at every one of which he was
presented with a bowl of milk and water.  They were all remarkably
corpulent, which in that country is the highest mark of beauty.  They
were also very inquisitive, examining minutely his hair and skin, though
affecting to consider him as a sort of inferior being to themselves, and
pretending to shudder when they looked at the whiteness of his skin.
Notwithstanding the attention shown him by these fat dames, his
condition was not improved, and he was often left without even food or
water, while suffering fearfully from the heat.

Ali at length moved his camp, and Park was sent forward under the escort
of one of the king's sons.  The new encampment was larger than that of
Benowm, and situated in the midst of a thick wood, about two miles
distant from a neighbouring town, called Bubaka.  Here Park was
introduced to queen Fatima by Ali.  She seemed much pleased at his
coming, shaking hands with him, even though Ali had told her that he was
a Christian.  She was a remarkably corpulent woman, with an Arab cast of
countenance and long hair.

After asking a number of questions, with the answers to which she
appeared interested, she became perfectly at her ease and presented her
visitor with a bowl of milk.  She was, indeed, the only person who
treated Park kindly during his stay.

Both men and cattle suffered much from thirst, and though Ali had given
him a skin for containing water, and Fatima once or twice presented him
with a small supply, yet such was the barbarous disposition of the
Moors, that when his boy attempted to fill his skin at the wells, he
generally received a sound drubbing for his presumption.  One night,
having in vain attempted to obtain water, he resolved to try his fortune
himself at the wells, which were about half a mile distant.  About
midnight he set out, and, guided by the lowing of the cattle, he reached
the place.  Here a number of Moors were drawing water, but he was driven
by them from each well in succession.  At last he reached one where
there was only an old man and two boys.  He earnestly besought the first
to give him some water.  The old man complied, and drew up a bucket; but
no sooner did Park take hold of it than, recollecting that the stranger
was a Christian, and fearing that his bucket might be polluted, he
dashed the water into the trough, and told him to drink from thence.
Though the trough was none of the largest, and three cows were already
drinking in it, Park knelt down, and, thrusting his head between two of
the cows, drank with intense pleasure till the water was nearly
exhausted.

The rainy season was now approaching, when the Moors evacuate the
country of the negroes and return to the skirts of the Great Desert.

Ali looked upon Park as a lawful prisoner, and though Fatima allowed him
food and otherwise treated him kindly, she had as yet said nothing about
his release.

Fortunately for him, Ali had resolved to send an expedition to Jarra, of
two hundred Moorish horsemen, to attack Daisy.  Park obtained permission
to accompany them, and, through the influence of Fatima, he also
received back his bundle of clothes and his horse.

On the 26th of May, accompanied by Johnson and his boy Demba, he set out
with a number of Moors on horseback, Ali having gone on before.  On his
way Ali's chief slave came up and told Demba that Ali was to be his
master in future; then, turning to Park, said, "The boy goes back to
Bubaka, but you may take the old fool," meaning Johnson, "with you to
Jarra."  Park in vain pleaded for Demba, but the slave only answered
that if he did not mount his horse he would send him back likewise.
Poor Demba was not less affected than his master.  Having shaken hands
with the unfortunate boy, and assured him that he would do everything in
his power to redeem him, Park saw him led off by three of Ali's slaves.

At Jarra he took up his lodgings in the house of an old acquaintance,
Dayman, whom he requested to use his influence with Ali to redeem the
boy, and promised him a bill on Dr Laidley for the value of two slaves
the moment he brought him to Jarra.

Ali, however, considering the boy to be Park's principal interpreter,
would not liberate him, fearing that he would be instrumental in
conducting him to Bambarra.

Still Park was eager, if possible, to continue his journey, but Johnson
refused to proceed further.  At the same time he foresaw that he must
soon fall a victim to the Moors if he remained where he was, and that if
he went forward singly he must encounter great difficulties, both from
the want of an interpreter and the means of purchasing food.  On the
other hand he was very unwilling to return to England without
accomplishing his mission.  He therefore determined to escape on the
first opportunity at all risks.  This arrived sooner than he expected.

On the 26th of June news was brought that Daisy had taken Simbug, and
would be at Jarra the next day.  Hearing this, the people began packing
up their property and beating corn for their journey, and early in the
morning nearly half had set off--the women and children crying, the men
looking sullen and dejected.

Though Park was sure of being well treated could he make himself known
to Daisy, yet as he might be mistaken for a Moor in the confusion, he
thought it wisest to mount his horse with a large bag of corn before
him, and to ride away with the rest of the townspeople.

He again fell in with his friend Dayman and Johnson.  They pushed on two
days' journey to the town of Queira.

While Park was out tending his horse in the fields on the 1st of July,
Ali's chief slave and four Moors arrived at Queira, and Johnson, who
suspected the object of their visit, sent two boys to overhear their
conversation.  From them he learned that the Moors had come to convey
Park back to Bubaka.  This was a terrible stroke to him, and, now
convinced that Ali intended to detain him for ever in captivity, or
perhaps to take his life, he determined at all risks to attempt making
his escape.  He communicated his design to Johnson, who, though he
approved of it, showed no inclination to accompany him.  Park therefore
resolved to proceed by himself, and to trust to his own resources.



CHAPTER THREE.

MUNGO PARK'S TRAVELS CONTINUED.

PARK ESCAPES AT NIGHT--PURSUED BY MOORS AND ROBBED--FEARFUL SUFFERING;
FROM THIRST--FINDS WATER--KINDLY TREATED BY AN OLD WOMAN--WANDERINGS IN
THE FOREST--REACHES BAMBARRA--ILL-TREATED--REACHES THE NIGER--ARRIVES AT
SEGO, THE CAPITAL--THE KING REFUSES TO SEE HIM--SENT TO A DISTANT
VILLAGE--ALMOST STARVING--A COMPASSIONATE WOMAN TAKES HIM INTO HER HOUSE
AND FEEDS HIM--KING MANSONG ORDERS HIM TO QUIT THE COUNTRY--ENTERS
SANSANDING ON THE NIGER--THE MOORS THREATEN HIM FOR BEING A CHRISTIAN--
WRITES CHARMS FOR HIS HOST--PROCEEDS--FOLLOWED BY A LION--HIS HORSE
FALLS SICK, AND, LEAVING THE ANIMAL, HE PROCEEDS ON FOOT--PROCEEDS DOWN
THE NIGER TO MOORZAN--DETERMINES TO RETURN--FINDS HIS HORSE ALIVE--RAINY
SEASON COMMENCES--AGAIN REACHES SANSANDING--INHOSPITABLY TREATED--
REPULSED FROM NUMEROUS PLACES--SWIMS SEVERAL RIVERS--BETTER TREATED AS
HE GETS WESTWARD--A NEGRO MERCHANT AT RAMMAKO RECEIVES HIM HOSPITABLY--
SETS OFF WITH A SINGING MAN AS HIS GUIDE--CONDUCTED BY TWO SHEPHERDS--
DESPOILED OF HIS CLOTHES AND HORSE BY ROBBERS--IN DANGER OF PERISHING--
REACHES SIBIDOOLOO--MANSA, THE CHIEF MAN, RECOVERS HIS HORSE AND
CLOTHES--SUFFERS FROM FEVER--PEOPLE STARVING--CONTINUES HIS JOURNEY--
KINDLY TREATED AT KAMATIA BY A BUSHREEN--KAFA TAURA--STARTS WITH A SLAVE
CARAVAN--ATTACKED BY BEES--DEATH OF A SLAVE--SUFFERINGS OF SLAVES--
REACHES PISANIA--SAILS BY WAY OF AMERICA FOR ENGLAND--REACHES HOME.

The time had arrived when, as Park felt, he must either again submit to
the tyrannical treatment of Ali, or perish possibly in attempting to
escape.  At night he got ready a bundle of clothes, consisting of two
shirts and two pair of trousers, with a cloak and a _few_ other
articles; but he had not a single bead to purchase food for himself or
his horse.  About daybreak Johnson came and told him that the Moors were
asleep.  The awful crisis had now arrived; a cold perspiration stood on
his brow as he thought of the dreadful alternative and reflected that
one way or the other his fate must be decided in the course of the day.
To deliberate was to lose the only chance of escape; so, taking up his
bundle, he stepped gently over the negroes sleeping in the air, mounted
his horse, bade Johnson farewell, desiring him to take particular care
of the papers with which he had intrusted him, and to say that he had
left him in good health, on his way to Bambarra.

He rode on, expecting every moment to be overtaken by the Moorish
horsemen.  Some shepherds he encountered followed, hooting and throwing
stones at him.  Scarcely was he out of their reach, and was again
indulging in the hopes of escaping, when he heard somebody call behind
him, and on looking back, he saw three Moors on horseback galloping at
full speed and brandishing their weapons.  To escape was vain.  He
stopped, and one of them, presenting his musket, told him that he must
go back to Ali.  The effect of this announcement was to benumb his
faculties.  He rode back with apparent unconcern, but he had not gone
far when the Moors, stopping, ordered him to untie his bundle.  Having
examined the articles, they found nothing worth taking except his cloak,
and one of them, pulling it off, wrapped it about himself.  It had
served to protect him from the rain in the day and the dews at night,
and was of the greatest value to him.  He earnestly begged the robbers
to return it, but his petition was unheeded.  As he attempted to follow
them to regain his cloak, one of the robbers struck his horse over the
head, and presenting his musket, ordered him to proceed no further.
Finding that the sole object of the Moors had been to plunder him, he
turned his horse's head towards the east, thankful to have escaped with
his life.

As soon as he was out of sight of the robbers, he struck into the woods
and pushed on with all possible speed.  He had at length obtained his
liberty--his limbs felt light, even the desert looked pleasant.  He soon
recollected, however, that he had no means of procuring food, nor a
prospect of finding water.

He directed his course by compass in the hopes of at length reaching
some town or village in the kingdom of Bambarra.

His thirst, in consequence of the burning heat of the sun, reflected
with double violence on the sand, became intense.  He climbed a tree in
the hopes of seeing some human habitation.  Nothing appeared around but
thick underwood and hillocks of white sand.

At sunset he again climbed a tree, but the same sight met his eyes.
Descending, after taking the saddle off his horse's back, he was
suddenly seized with giddiness, and fell to the ground believing that
the hour of death was fast approaching.  He recovered, however, just as
the sun was sinking behind the trees, and now, summoning up all his
resolution, he determined to make another effort to prolong his
existence.

He had gone on some distance further when he perceived some lightening
in the north-east, a delightful sight, for it promised rain, and soon he
heard the wind roaring among the bushes.  He was expecting the
refreshing drops, when in an instant he was covered with a cloud of
sand.  It continued to fly for nearly an hour; then more lightening
followed and then down came a few heavy drops of rain, enabling him to
quench his thirst by wringing and sucking his clothes.

He travelled on during the night, which was intensely dark, till he
perceived a light ahead.  Cautiously approaching it he heard the lowing
of cattle and the clamorous tongues of the herdsmen, which made him
suspect that it was a watering-place belonging to the Moors.  Rather
than run the risk of falling into their hands he retreated, but being
dreadfully thirsty, and fearing the approach of the burning day, he
thought it prudent to search for the wells which he expected to find at
no great distance.

While thus engaged he was perceived by a woman, who screaming out, two
people ran to her assistance from the neighbouring tents and passed
close to him.

Happily he escaped from them and, plunging again into the woods, after
proceeding a mile he heard a loud and confused noise.  Great was his
delight to find that it arose from the croaking of frogs, which was
music to his ears.

At daybreak he reached some shallow pools full of large frogs, which so
frightened his horse that he was obliged to keep them quiet by beating
the water till he had drank.  Having quenched his own thirst, he
ascended a tree to ascertain the best course to take, when he observed a
pillar of smoke about twelve miles off.  Directing his course to it he
reached a Foulah village belonging to Ali.  Hunger compelled him to
enter it, but he was denied admittance to the _dooty's_ house, and could
not obtain even a handful of corn.  Reaching, however, a humble hut at
which an old motherly-looking woman sat spinning cotton, he made signs
that he was hungry.  She immediately laid down her distaff, and desired
him in Arabic to come in, setting before him a dish of _kous-kous_.  In
return he gave her one of his pocket-handkerchiefs, and asked for a
little corn for his horse, which she readily brought him.

While his horse was feeding the people collected round him, and from
their conversation he discovered that they proposed seizing him and
conveying him back to Ali.  He therefore tied up his corn and, lest it
might be supposed that he was running from the Moors, driving his horse
before him he took a northerly direction, followed by the boys and girls
of the town.  Having got rid of his troublesome attendants he struck
into the woods, where he was compelled to pass the night with his saddle
for a pillow.  He was awakened by three Foulahs, who, taking him for a
Moor, told him that it was time to pray.  Without answering them he
saddled his horse and made his escape.

The next day he took shelter in the tent of a Foulah shepherd, who
charitably gave him boiled corn and dates, although he was recognised as
a Christian.  He here purchased some corn in exchange for some brass
buttons, and again took the road to Bambarra, which he resolved to
follow for the night.  Hearing some people approaching, he thought it
prudent to hide himself, which he did in the thick brushwood.  He there
sat holding his horse by the nose to prevent him neighing, equally
afraid of the natives without and the wild beasts within the forest.
The former took their departure, and he went on till past midnight, when
the croaking of frogs induced him to turn off from the road, that he and
his steed might quench their thirst.  Having discovered an open place
with a single tree in the midst of it, he lay down for the night.  He
was disturbed towards morning by the sound of wolves, which made him
once more mount.

On the morning of the 5th of July he reached a negro town in the
confines of Bambarra.  It was a small place surrounded by high walls,
inhabited by a mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs, chiefly employed in
the cultivation of corn.  The people were suspicious of his character,
some supposing him to be an Arab, others a Moorish sultan, but the
_dooty_, or chief magistrate, who had been at Gambia, took his part, and
assured them that he was a white man.  On its being reported that he was
going to Sego, the capital, several women came and begged that he would
enquire of Mansong what had become of their children, who had been
carried off to fight.

He was allowed to take his departure without molestation, and on the 6th
reached the town of Dingyee.

When he was about to depart the next morning, the landlord begged him to
give him a lock of his hair, understanding that white men's hair made a
_saphie_, or charm, which would bestow on the possessor all their
knowledge.  This he willingly promised to do, but the landlord's thirst
for learning was such that he cropped nearly the whole of one side of
his head, and would have done the same with the other had not Park told
him that he wished to reserve some of this precious merchandise for a
future occasion.

Having reached the town of Wassiboo, shortly afterwards eight fugitive
Kaartan negroes, who had escaped from the tyrannical government of the
Moors, arrived, on their road to offer their allegiance to the king of
Bambarra.  Park gladly accepted their invitation to accompany them on
their road.

His horse at the end of three days, becoming completely knocked up, he
dismounted and desired his companions to ride on, telling them he would
follow; but they declined leaving him, declaring that lions were
numerous, and that, though they would not attack a body of people, they
would soon find out a single individual and destroy him.  One of the
party, therefore, insisted on remaining with him, and he and his friend,
after he had rested, overtook their companions, passing through several
of the numerous towns in this part of the country.  His horse, now
becoming weaker and weaker, he was obliged to drive the animal on before
him the greater part of the day, so that he did not reach Geosorro till
late in the evening.  The _dooty_ of the place refused to give him or
his companions food, so he lay down supperless to sleep.  Their host,
however, relented, and about midnight he was awakened with the joyful
information that victuals were prepared.

Next day his fellow-travellers, having better horses, went on ahead, and
he was walking barefoot, driving his own poor animal before him, when he
met a coffle, or caravan, of about seventy slaves coming from Sego.
They were tied together by their necks with thongs of bullock's hide
twisted like a rope, seven slaves upon a thong, and a man with a musket
between every seven.  They were bound for Morocco.

On arriving at the next place he found that his companions had gone on
without him, but he fell in, the following day, with two negroes going
to Sego, who afforded him their company.

In the village through which he passed he was constantly taken for a
Moor.  The people jeered at him, laughing at his tattered and forlorn
appearance.  He, however, again overtook the Kaartans, who promised to
introduce him to the king.

As they were riding along over some marshy ground, and he was anxiously
looking around for the river which he now supposed to be near, one of
his companions called out, "_Geo affilli_!"  ("See water!") and, looking
forward, he saw with infinite pleasure the great object of his mission--
the long-sought-for majestic Niger, glittering in the morning sun, as
broad as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly to the east.  He
hastened to the brink, and having drunk of the water, offered up his
fervent thanks in prayer to the Great Ruler of all things for having
thus far crowned his endeavours with success.

Sego, the capital of Bambarra--at which he had now arrived--consists,
properly speaking, of four distinct towns: two on the north and two on
the south bank of the Niger.  They are surrounded by high mud walls.
The houses are built of clay, of a square form with flat roofs--some of
them of two stories, and many of them are whitewashed.  Moorish mosques
are seen in every quarter; and the streets, though narrow, are broad
enough for every useful purpose in a country where wheel-carriages are
unknown.  It contains about thirty thousand inhabitants.

While waiting to cross the river, a messenger arrived, informing him
that the king could not possibly see him until he knew what had brought
him into the country, and that he must not venture to cross the river
without his majesty's permission.  He was directed to pass the night in
a distant village; but when he reached it, no one would admit him.  He
was regarded with astonishment and fear, and was obliged to sit all day
without food in the shade of a tree.  He fully expected to have to pass
the night in the same place; but about sunset, after he had turned his
horse loose, a woman, perceiving that he was weary and dejected,
enquired into his situation.  Casting looks of pity upon him, she took
up his saddle and bridle, and told him to follow her.  Having conducted
him into her hut, she lighted her lamp, spread a mat on the floor and
signified that he might remain there for the night.  Finding that he was
very hungry, she brought him a fine fish for supper.  Having thus
attended to the stranger, telling him that he might sleep in safety she
called her women around her and desired them to resume their task of
spinning cotton, in which they continued to employ themselves the
greater part of the night, lightening their labours by songs, some of
which had reference to their white visitor.

Several days passed, when a messenger arrived from Mansong with a bag in
his hands.  He told Park that it was his Majesty's pleasure he should
forthwith depart from the neighbourhood of Sego, but that the king,
wishing to relieve a white man in distress, had sent him five thousand
cowries.  From the conversation Park had with the guide, he ascertained
that Mansong would willingly have seen him, but that he was apprehensive
of being unable to protect him against the blind and inveterate malice
of the Moorish inhabitants.  His conduct, therefore, was at once prudent
and liberal.

He was the same evening conducted to a village about seven miles to the
eastward, where he was well received.  His guide told him that if Jenne
was really the place of his destination, the journey was one of greater
danger than he might suppose; for, although that town was nominally a
part of the King of Bambarra's dominions, it was in fact a city of the
Moors--the chief part of the inhabitants being Bushreens, a fanatical
Mahommedan sect.  He heard, too, that Timbuctoo, the great object of his
search, was entirely in possession of that savage and merciless people,
who allow no Christian to live there.  He had, however, advanced too far
to think of returning with uncertain information, and he determined to
proceed.

Being provided with a guide, he left the village on the morning of the
24th, travelling through a highly cultivated country, the scenery
bearing a greater resemblance to that of England than he had expected to
find in the middle of Africa.

The people were everywhere employed in collecting the fruit of the shea
trees, from which they prepared vegetable butter.  In the evening he
reached the large town of Sansanding, the resort of numerous Moorish
caravans from the shores of the Mediterranean.  In the harbour he
observed twenty large canoes, and others arrived while he was there.  He
was received into the house of the _dooty_, Counti Mamadi.  Scarcely had
he arrived when hundreds of people surrounded him, all speaking
different dialects, several of them declaring that they had seen him in
various parts of the continent.  It was evident that they mistook him
for somebody else.  One of them, a _shereef_, from Suat, declared that
if he refused to go to the mosque he would carry him there.  He had
little doubt that the Moor would have put his threat into execution had
not his host interposed in his behalf.  The latter said that, if he
would let his guest alone for the night, in the morning he should be
sent about his business.  This somewhat appeased them, but even after he
had retired to his hut the people climbed over the pailings to look at
him.

At midnight, when the Moors had retired, Mamadi paid him a visit and
earnestly desired him to write a _saphie_, or charm, observing, "If a
Moor's _saphie_ is good, a white man's must needs be better."  Park
readily furnished him with one, which was in reality the Lord's Prayer,
a reed serving for a pen, charcoal and gum-water for ink and a thin
board for paper.

Allowed to proceed, as he and his guide were crossing an open plain with
a few scattered bushes, the guide wheeled his horse round, called loudly
to him and, warning him that a lion was at hand, made signs that he
should ride away.  His horse was too much fatigued to do this, so they
rode slowly past the bush, and he, not seeing anything himself, thought
the guide had been mistaken.  Suddenly the Foulah put his hand to his
mouth exclaiming, "God preserve us!"  To his great surprise he then
perceived a large red lion a short distance from the bush, his head
couched between his fore paws.  Park expected that the creature would
instantly spring upon him, and instinctively pulled his foot from the
stirrups to throw himself on the ground, that his horse might become the
victim rather than himself; but probably the lion was not hungry, for he
quietly allowed the traveller to pass though fairly within his reach.

The next day his horse completely broke down, and the united strength of
himself and his guide could not place the animal again upon his legs.
He sat down for some time beside the worn-out associate of his
adventures; but, finding him still unable to rise, he took off the
saddle and bridle and placed a quantity of grass before him.  While he
surveyed his poor steed as he lay panting on the ground, he could not
suppress the sad apprehension that he should himself in a short time lie
down and perish in the same manner from fatigue and hunger.  With this
foreboding he left his horse, and with great reluctance followed his
guide on foot along the banks of the river until he reached the small
village of Kea.

Here he parted from his Foulah guide, whom he requested to look after
his horse on his return, which he promised to do.

From Kea he went down the river in a canoe, and thence to Moorzan, a
fishing town on the northern bank, and was then conveyed across the
stream to Silla, a large town.  Here, after much entreaty, the _dooty_
allowed him to enter his house to avoid the rain, but the place was damp
and he had a smart attack of fever.  Worn down by sickness, exhausted
with hunger, and fatigued, half-naked, without any article of value by
which he could procure provisions, clothes, or lodgings, he began to
reflect seriously on his situation, and was convinced by painful
experience that the obstacles to his further progress were
insurmountable.  The _dooty_ approved of the resolution he had arrived
at of returning, and procured a fisherman to carry him across to
Moorzan, whence he got back to Kea.  The brother of the _dooty_ was
starting for Modiboo.  He took his saddle, which he had left at Kea,
intending to present it to the king of Bambarra.

Travelling along the banks of the river, the footprints of a lion quite
fresh in the mud were seen.  His companion, therefore, proceeded with
great circumspection, insisting that Park should walk before him.  This
he declined doing, when his guide threw down the saddle and left him
alone.  He therefore continued his course along the bank, and believing
that the lion was at no great distance, he became much alarmed, and took
a long circuit through the bushes.

He at last arrived at Modiboo.  While conversing with the _dooty_ of the
place he heard a horse neigh in one of the huts.  The _dooty_ inquired
with a smile if he knew who was speaking to him.  He explained himself
by telling Park that his horse was still alive and somewhat recovered
from his fatigue, and that he must take the animal with him.

Though tolerably well treated at the villages where he stopped, he in
vain endeavoured to obtain a guide.  The rains were now falling, and the
country, it was supposed, would soon be completely flooded.  He heard
that a report had been abroad that he had come to Bambarra as a spy and
that, as Mansong had not admitted him into his presence, the _dooties_
of the different towns might treat him as they pleased.

A little before sunset of the 11th of August he reached Sansanding.
Here even Mamadi, who had formerly been so kind to him, scarcely gave
him a welcome, and everyone seemed to shun him.  Mamadi, however, came
privately to him in the evening, and told him that Mansong had
despatched a canoe to bring him back, and advised him to set off from
Sansanding before daybreak, cautioning him not to stop at any town near
Sego.  He therefore resumed his journey on the 12th, and in the
afternoon reached the neighbourhood of Kabba.

As he approached, one of several people who were standing at the gate
ran towards him and, taking his horse by the bridle, led him round the
walls of the town and, pointing to the west, told him to go along or it
would be the worse for him.  He in vain represented the danger of being
benighted in the woods, exposed to the inclemency of the weather and the
fury of wild beasts.  "Go along," was the only answer he received.  He
found that these negroes had acted thus from kindness, as the king's
messengers who had come to seize him were inside the town.

Being repulsed from another village, he went on till he reached a small
one somewhat out of the road, and sat down under a tree by a well.  Two
or three women came to draw water and, perceiving the stranger, enquired
where he was going.  On Park telling them to Sego, one of them went in
to acquaint the _dooty_.  In a little time the _dooty_ sent for him, and
permitted him to sleep in a large hut.

Next day he again set forward, meeting with the same inhospitable
treatment as before, and having for three days to subsist on uncooked
corn.  He was repulsed in like manner from the gates of Taffara; and at
the village of Sooha, which he reached next day, he in vain endeavoured
to procure some corn from the _dooty_, who was sitting by the gate.
While Park was speaking to the old man, he called to a slave to bring
his paddle along with him, and when he brought it, told him to dig a
hole in the ground, pointing to a spot at no great distance.  While
the slave was thus engaged, the _dooty_ kept muttering the
words--"Good-for-nothing!  A real plague!"  These expressions, coupled
with the appearance of the pit the lad had dug, which looked much like a
grave, made Park think it prudent to decamp.  He had just mounted his
horse, when the slave who had gone into the village returned, dragging
the corpse of a boy by a leg and arm, which he threw into the pit with
savage indifference, and at once began to cover it up with earth.

At sunset Park reached Koohkorro, a considerable town, and the great
market for salt.  Here he was received into the house of a Bambarran
who, once a slave to a Moor, had obtained his freedom and was now a
merchant.  Finding that his guest was a Christian, he immediately
desired him to write a _saphie_, saying that he would dress him a supper
of rice if he would produce one to protect him from wicked men.  Park
therefore covered the board on both sides, when his landlord, wishing to
have the full force of the charm, washed the writing from the board into
a calabash with a little water and, having said a few prayers over it,
drank the whole draught; after which, lest a single word should escape,
he licked the board until it was quite dry.  The _dooty_ of the place
next sent to have a _saphie_ written--a charm to procure wealth.  So
highly satisfied was he with his bargain that he presented the traveller
with some meal and milk, and promised him in the morning some more milk
for his breakfast.

When Park had finished his supper of rice and salt, he lay down upon a
bullock's hide and slept quietly until morning, this being the first
good meal and refreshing sleep he had enjoyed for a long time.

After leaving this place, having been misdirected as to his road, he
reached a deep creek.  Rather than turn back, he went behind his horse
and pushed him headlong into the water; then, taking the bridle in his
teeth, he swam to the other side.  This was the third creek he had
crossed in this manner since he had left Sego.  His clothes were,
indeed, constantly wet from the rain and dew; and the roads being very
deep and full of mud, such a washing was sometimes pleasant.

At Bammakoo, which he reached on the evening of the next day, he was
received into the house of a negro merchant, of whom there are many
wealthy ones in the place, trading chiefly in salt.  He was feasted also
by a number of Moors, who spoke good Mandingo, and were more civil to
him than their countrymen had before been.  One of them had travelled to
Rio Grande, and spoke highly of the Christians.  From this man he
received a present of boiled rice and milk.  He also met a slave
merchant who had resided some years on the Gambia, who informed him
about the places which lay in his intended course to the westward.  He
was told that the road was impassable at this season of the year, and
that there was a rapid river to cross.  Having, however, no money to
maintain himself, Park determined at all risks to push on, and, having
obtained a singing man who said he knew the road over the hills, set off
the next day.  His musical conductor, however, lost the right path and,
when among the hills, leaping to the top of a rock as if to look out for
the road, suddenly disappeared.  Park managed, however, just before
sunset, to reach the romantic village of Koomah, the sole property of a
Mandingo merchant and surrounded by a high wall.  Though seldom visited
by strangers, whenever the weary traveller did come to his residence the
merchant made him welcome.

Park was soon surrounded by the harmless villagers, who had numberless
questions to ask and in return for the information he gave them brought
corn and milk for himself and grass for his horse, and kindled a fire in
the hut where he was to sleep.

Accompanied by two shepherds as guides, he set out the next day from
Koomah.  The shepherds, however, walked on ahead, troubling themselves
but little about him.

The country was very rough, and the declivity so great that a false step
would have caused him and his horse to be dashed to pieces.

As he was riding on, the shepherds being about a quarter of a mile
before him, he heard a loud screaming as from a person in great
distress.  Supposing that a lion had taken off one of the shepherds, he
hurried on to ascertain what had happened.  The noise had ceased, and in
a short time he perceived one of the shepherds lying among the long
grass near the road, and concluded that the man was dead; but when he
came close to him the shepherd whispered to him to stop, telling him
that a party of armed men had seized upon his companion and shot two
arrows at him.  While considering what to do, he saw at a little
distance a man sitting upon the stem of a tree, and also the heads of
six or seven more who were crouching down among the grass, with muskets
in their hands.  It being impossible to escape, he rode forward towards
them, hoping that they were elephant hunters.  By way of opening the
conversation he inquired if they had shot anything; but in answer one of
them ordered him to dismount, and then, as if recollecting himself,
waved with his hand as a sign that Park might proceed.  He had ridden
some way when they shouted to him again to stop, and told him that the
King of the Foulahs had sent them to carry him to Fooladoo.  Without
hesitating, Park turned and followed them.

They had reached a dark part of the wood when one of them observed in
the Mandingo language, "This place will do," and immediately snatched
his hat from his head.  Feeling that resistance was useless, he allowed
them to proceed till they had stripped him quite naked.  While they were
examining their plunder, Park begged them to return his pocket compass;
but, on his pointing to it as it lay on the ground, one of the banditti
cocked his musket, swearing that he would shoot him if he presumed to
take it.  After this some of them went away with his horse, and the
remainder stood considering whether they should leave him quite naked or
allow him something to shelter him from the sun.  Humanity at last
prevailed, and they returned the worst of his two shirts and a pair of
trousers; one of them also threw back his hat, in the crown of which he
kept his memorandums--probably the reason why they did not wish to keep
it.

Here he was in the midst of a vast wilderness in the depth of the rainy
season, naked and alone, and surrounded by savage animals and men still
more savage, five hundred miles from the nearest European settlement.
His spirits began to fail, but he reflected that no human prudence could
possibly have averted his present sufferings, and that, though a
stranger in a strange land, he was still under the protecting eye of
that Providence who has condescended to call Himself the stranger's
friend.  At this moment the extreme beauty of a small moss in
fructification caught his eye.  Though the whole plant was not much
larger than the top of one of his fingers, he could not contemplate the
delicate conformation of its roots, leaves, and capsules without
admiration.  "Can that Being," he thought, "who brought this plant to
perfection look with unconcern upon the situation and sufferings of
creatures formed after his own image?  Surely not."  He started up and,
disregarding both hunger and fatigue, travelled forward, assured that
relief was at hand.

In a short time he overtook the two shepherds who had come with him from
Koomah.  They were greatly surprised to see him, observing that they
never doubted that the Foulahs had murdered him.  In their company he
arrived at Sibidooloo, the frontier town of the kingdom of Manding.  The
chief man in the place, called Mansa, received him most kindly, and when
Park related how he had been robbed of his horse and apparel, he
observed, with an indignant air, "Sit down.  You shall have everything
restored to you--I have sworn it."  He at once gave directions to his
people to search for the robbers.  Park was conducted into a hut, where
he was provided with food, and a crowd of people assembled, all of whom
commiserated his misfortunes and vented imprecations against the
Foulahs.

As there was a great scarcity of provisions in the place, Park, after
spending two days there, begged Mansa to allow him to depart.  He gave
him permission to do so, provided he would remain at a town called Wanda
for a few days, until he received some account of his horse and goods.

He took his departure accordingly on the morning of the 28th, and
reached Wanda about noon of the 30th.

The head man of the place, who was a Mahommedan, acted not only as chief
magistrate, but as schoolmaster.  He kept his school in an open shed,
where the traveller was desired to take up his lodgings.  Park was very
anxious for his clothes, as those he had on were completely worn-out,
his shirt being like a piece of muslin and dirty in the extreme.

He here spent nine days suffering much from fever.  On the 6th two
people arrived from Sibidooloo, bringing his horse and clothes, but his
pocket compass, greatly to his vexation, was broken to pieces.

Every day he observed several women come to the house to receive a
certain quantity of corn.  Knowing how valuable this article was at the
present juncture, he enquired of his host whether he maintained these
poor women from pure bounty or expected a return when the harvest should
be gathered in.

"Observe that boy," said he, pointing to a fine child about five years
of age.  "His mother has sold him to me for forty days' provisions for
herself and the rest of her family.  I have bought another boy in the
same manner."

Sick as he was, Park thought it necessary to take his leave of his
hospitable landlord, to whom he presented his horse as the only
recompense he could make, desiring him to convey his saddle and bridle
as a present to Mansa of Sibidooloo.  As he was about to set out, his
host begged him to accept his spear as a token of remembrance and a
leather bag to contain his clothes.  Having converted his half-boots
into sandals, he travelled with more ease.

Although the people were suffering great distress from the failure of
the crops, he was in general most hospitably treated.  His landlord at
Kinyeto, observing that he had hurt his ankle, insisted on his remaining
several days till he could walk with the help of a staff.

Notwithstanding suffering from fever and exposed to constant rain, he
continued his journey, narrowly escaping being detained at the town of
Mansia by the inhospitable chief, who insisted on being paid for the
small amount of food he had provided.

On September 16th he reached the town of Kamalia.  He was here conducted
to the house of a Bushreen, Kafa Taura.  He was collecting a caravan of
slaves to convey to the European settlements on the Gambia, as soon as
the rains should be over.  He found Kafa seated in his house surrounded
by several _slatees_ who proposed joining the caravan.  He was reading
to them from an Arabic book, and enquired if his guest understood it.
On being answered in the negative, he desired one of the _slatees_ to
fetch a curious little book which had been brought from the west
country.  It proved to be a book of Common Prayer, and Kafa expressed
great joy on hearing that Park could read it, for some of the _slatees_,
observing the colour of his skin, now become yellow from sickness,
suspected that he was an Arab in disguise.  Kafa, however, had now no
doubt concerning him, and kindly promised him every assistance in his
power.

Park was here laid up completely by fever, but Kafa, who had provided a
quiet hut for his accomodation, advised him to remain within it,
assuring him that if he did not walk out in the wet he would soon be
well.

He passed five weeks in a gloomy and solitary manner, seldom visited by
any person except his benevolent landlord, who came daily to enquire
about his health.

When the rains became less frequent the country began to grow dry and
the fever left him, but in so debilitated condition that it was with
difficulty he could crawl with his mat to the shade of a tamarind tree
at a short distance, there to enjoy the refreshing smell of the
corn-fields.  The benevolent and simple manners of the negroes, and the
perusal of Kafa's little volume greatly contributed to his restoration.

In the beginning of December, Kafa began to make arrangements for his
journey, and to complete the purchase of his slaves.

As he had to be absent about his affairs for a month, Park was left
during the time to the care of a good old Bushreen, who acted as
schoolmaster to the younger people of Kamalia.

The long-wished-for day of the departure of the caravan, the 19th of
April, at length arrived, and the irons being removed from the slaves,
the _slatees_ assembled at the door of Kafa's house, where the bundles
were all tied up, and everyone had his load assigned him.

Kafa had twenty-seven slaves for sale, but eight others afterwards
joined them, making in all thirty-five.  The schoolmaster who was on his
return to Woradoo, the place of his nativity, took with him eight of his
scholars.  Altogether, the come numbered seventy-three persons.

The caravan was followed for about half a mile by most of the
inhabitants of Kamalia; and when they had arrived at the top of a hill,
from whence they had a view of the town, they were all ordered to sit
down--those belonging to the coffle with their faces towards the west,
and the townspeople with theirs towards Kamalia.  The schoolmaster, with
two of the principal _slatees_, having taken their places between the
two parties, pronounced a solemn prayer, after which they walked three
times round the coffle, making impressions in the ground with the ends
of their spears, and muttering something by way of a charm.  When this
ceremony was ended, all the people belonging to the coffle sprang up
and, without taking a formal farewell of their friends, set forward.

Another ceremony was performed when the party stopped to dine on the
road.  Before commencing the meal, when each person was seated with
their quotas arranged before him in small gourd shells, the schoolmaster
offered up a short prayer that God and the holy prophet might preserve
them from robbers and all bad people, that their provisions might never
fail nor their limbs become fatigued.

After stopping at the town of Kenytakooro till the 22nd of April, the
coffle commenced the journey through the Jallonka wilderness.  The
country was very beautiful and abounded with birds and deer; but so
anxious were they to push on, that they made fully thirty miles that
day.  Fatigued as they were, they were frequently disturbed in the night
by the howling of wild beasts and the bites of ants.

On setting out in the morning Nealee, one of Kafa's female slaves
refused to drink the gruel offered her.  The country was extremely wild
and rocky, and Park began to fear that he should be unable to keep up
with the party.  Others, however, suffered more than he did.  The poor
female slave began to lag behind; and, complaining dreadfully of pains
in her legs, her load was taken from her and given to another, and she
was ordered to keep in front of the coffle.

As the party were resting near a rivulet a hive of bees was discovered
in a hollow tree, and some of the people were proceeding to obtain the
honey, when an enormous swarm flew out, and, attacking every one, made
them fly in every direction.  Park being the first to take alarm, was
the only person who escaped with impunity.  The slaves had, however,
left their bundles behind them, and to obtain them it was necessary to
set the grass on fire to the east of the hive, when the wind driving the
flames along, the men pushed through the smoke and recovered their
bundles.  They also brought with them poor Nealee, whom they found lying
by the rivulet stung in the most dreadful manner.  On her refusing to
proceed further, she was cruelly beaten with a whip, when, suddenly
starting up, she walked for four or five hours; she then made an attempt
to run away, but, from weakness, fell to the ground.  Though unable to
rise, the whip was a second time applied, when Kafa ordered that she
should be placed on an ass.  Unable to sit on it, she was carried
afterwards on a litter by two slaves.

The unfortunate slaves, who had travelled all day in the hot sun with
loads on their heads, were dreadfully fatigued; and some of them began
to snap their fingers--a sure sign, among negroes, of desperation.  They
were, therefore, put in irons, and kept apart from each other.  Next day
poor Nealee was again placed on the ass; but unable to hold herself on,
frequently fell to the ground.  At length the cry arose
of--"_Kang-tegi_!"  ("Cut her throat!") As Park did not wish to see this
horrible operation performed, he went on ahead; but soon afterwards he
was overtaken by one of Kafa's domestic slaves with poor Nealee's
garment on the end of a bow.  On making inquiries of the man, he replied
that Kafa and the schoolmaster would not consent to her being killed,
but had left her on the road, where probably she was soon devoured by
wild animals.

Such is one example of the cruel treatment received by the unhappy
slaves.  The old schoolmaster, however, was so affected, that he fasted
the whole of the ensuing day.

The party now travelled on rapidly, everyone being apprehensive that he
might otherwise meet with the fate of poor Nealee.

The coffle had still many dangers to encounter.  Receiving information
that two hundred Jallonkas were lying in wait to plunder them, they
altered their course and travelled with great secrecy until midnight,
when they entered the town of Koba.  Here they remained some days to
escape the Jallonkas.

The next town they reached, Malacotta, was the birthplace of the
schoolmaster, whose brother came out to meet him.  The interview was
very natural and affecting.  They fell on each other's neck, and it was
some time before either of them could speak.  The schoolmaster then
turning, pointed to Kafa, saying, "This is the man who has been my
father in Manding.  I would have pointed him out sooner to you, but my
heart was too full."

They were now in the country of friends, and were well received at each
of the towns they entered.

Park, however, witnessed numerous instances of the sad effects of the
slave trade.  A singing man, the master of one of the slaves who had
travelled for some time with great difficulty, and was found unable to
proceed further, proposed to exchange him for a young slave girl
belonging to one of the townspeople.  The poor girl was ignorant of her
fate until the bundles were all laid up in the morning, and the coffle
ready to depart, when, coming with some of the other young women to see
the coffle set out, her master took her by the hand and delivered her to
the singing man.  Never was a face of serenity more suddenly changed
into one of the deepest distress; the terror she manifested on having
the load put on her head and the rope round her neck, and the sorrow
with which she bid adieu to her companions, were truly affecting.
Notwithstanding the treatment which the slaves received, they had hearts
which could feel for the white stranger amidst their infinitely greater
sufferings, and they frequently of their own accord brought water to
quench his thirst, and at night collected branches and leaves for his
bed, during that weary journey of more than five hundred British miles.

Knowing that the greater number were doomed to a life of slavery in a
foreign land, he could not part from them without feeling much emotion.

At last Pisania was reached, and Park was warmly welcomed as one risen
from the dead by the Mr Ainsleys and Dr Laidley.  They had heard that
the Moors had murdered him as they had murdered Major Haughton.  He
learned with great sorrow that neither of his two attendants, Johnson
and Demba, had returned, and that nothing was known of them.  Park gave
double the amount he had promised to Kafa, and sent a present also to
the good old schoolmaster at Malacotta.  Kafa, who had never before
heard English spoken, listened with great attention to Park, when
conversing with his friends.  His astonishment at the various articles
of furniture in the houses was very great; but it was still greater when
he saw Mr Ainsley's schooner lying in the river.  He could not
comprehend the use of the masts and sails, or conceive how so large a
body could be moved by the wind.  He was frequently heard to exclaim,
with a sigh: "Ah! black men are nothing."

After waiting at Pisania some time, finding no vessel likely to sail
direct for England, he took his passage on board a slave vessel bound
for South Carolina.  She, however, meeting with bad weather, put into
Antigua, and from thence he sailed in an English packet, and arrived at
Falmouth on the 22nd of December, having been from England about two
years and seven months.



CHAPTER FOUR.

PARK'S SECOND JOURNEY.

MARRIES--PREPARES FOR ANOTHER JOURNEY--ACCOMPANIED BY MESSRS. ANDERSON
AND SCOTT, LIEUTENANT MARTYN AND THIRTY-FIVE SOLDIERS, PROCEEDS TO
PISANIA BY WAY OF GOREE--ENGAGES ISAACO AS GUIDE--NUMEROUS ASSES--
JOURNEY COMMENCED--THREE SOLDIERS DIE--ATTACKED BY BEES--SICKNESS AMONG
THE MEN INCREASES--ANNOYED BY LIONS--MESSRS. ANDERSON AND SCOTT ILL OF
FEVER--SEVERAL MEN LEFT BEHIND--ISAACO SEIZED BY A CROCODILE--NATIVES
ATTEMPT TO ROB THEM--A BRIDGE BUILT--REACH BANGASSI--SCOTT LEFT BEHIND,
SICK--THE CORPORAL AND MORE MEN DIE--MR. ANDERSON'S ILLNESS INCREASES--
FOLLOWED BY LIONS--HEAVY RAINS--MEETS KAFA TAURA--THE NIGER REACHED--
DESCENDS THE NIGER IN A CANOE--ISAACO TAKES HIS LEAVE--ALARMING
REPORTS--RECEIVES ENVOYS FROM MANSONG--CONTINUES VOYAGE IN CANOES--
RECEIVES NEWS OF SCOTT'S DEATH--MR. ANDERSON DIES--A VESSEL BUILT--
COMMENCES VOYAGE IN HER WITH LIEUTENANT MARTYN, TWO WHITE MEN AND SOME
SLAVES--ATTACKED BY NATIVES--CONTINUES VOYAGE--AGAIN ATTACKED--PARK AND
MARLYN DROWNED, OTHERS KILLED--ONE SLAVE ESCAPES, WHO GIVES AN ACCOUNT
OF THE TRAGEDY.

Soon after his return to England Park married the daughter of Mr
Anderson, with whom he had served his apprenticeship, and resided a
couple of years with his mother and one of his brothers on the farm that
his father had occupied at Fowlshiels, in Scotland.  After this he
practised his profession for some time at Peebles.  But this sort of
life not satisfying his ardent temperament, on hearing from Sir Joseph
Banks that another expedition into Africa to explore the Niger was
proposed, he at once offered his services.

Nothing, however, was settled till the year 1803, when, being directed
to hold himself in readiness to proceed to Africa, he engaged a native
of Mogadore, named Sidi Omback Boubi, then residing in London, to
accompany him to Scotland for the purpose of instructing him in Arabic.

Nearly another year passed before all arrangements were concluded.  It
was finally determined that the expedition should consist of Park
himself, his brother-in-law (Mr Anderson), and Mr George Scott, who
was to act as draughtsman, together with a few boat-builders and
artificers.  They were to be joined at Goree by a party of soldiers of
the African corps stationed in that garrison.

Three months after this elapsed ere they set sail on board the
"Crescent" transport on the 30th of January, 1805; and, after touching
at Saint Jago to obtain asses for the journey, they reached Goree on the
28th of March.

There was no lack of volunteers, the whole garrison offering their
services.  Thirty-five soldiers under the command of Lieutenant Martyn
of the Royal Artillery Corps were selected, as well as two sailors from
the "Squirrel" frigate.

They left Goree on the 6th of April, the men jumping into the boats in
the highest spirits, and bidding adieu to their friends with repeated
huzzas.

Landing at Kayee on the northern bank of the Gambia, they commenced
their overland journey to Pisania on the 27th of April.  The weather was
intensely hot, and the asses, unaccustomed to carry loads, made their
march very fatiguing and troublesome, three of the animals sticking fast
in a muddy rice field soon after they started.

So many delays had occurred that the rainy season was already
approaching, and it would have been more prudent had the expedition
remained at Goree or Pisania till the country had become again suitable
for travelling.  It was just possible, however, that they might reach
the Niger before the middle of June, when the rainy season usually
commences, and that river could then have been navigated without much
exposure or toil.  So eager, however, was Mr Park to proceed, that he
disregarded the warnings of his friends, and determined to set forth on
his journey.

Several days were lost at Pisania in arranging the burdens of the asses
and in purchasing more animals, as those they possessed were not
sufficient for carrying all the loads.

He here engaged a Mandingo priest named Isaaco, who was also a
travelling merchant, to serve as a guide, and, on the 4th of May, all
being ready, the caravan set forth from Pisania, whence nearly ten years
before Park had commenced his adventurous journey into the interior.

The arrangements for the march were well devised.  The animals as well
as their loads were marked and numbered with red paint, and a certain
number allotted to the care of each of the six messes into which the
soldiers were divided.  Mr Scott and Isaaco generally led, Lieutenant
Martyn marched in the centre, and Anderson and Park brought up the rear.

All their forethought, however, could not guard them against the deadly
attacks of the climate.  The asses from the first gave them a great deal
of trouble--many, from being overloaded, lying down in the road, while
others kicked off their bundles--so that the caravan made but slow
progress.

They had not gone far when two of the soldiers died, and, a few days
afterwards, another lost his life.

At most of the places through which they passed they were well received;
but at the town of Bady the chief man demanded enormously high duties,
and sent a large band of armed followers to collect them.  When Isaaco
was sent over to Bady to enquire the reason of this conduct, he was
seized, his weapons taken from him, and he was tied to a tree and
flogged.  It was proposed to attack the place; but early the next day
the guide was sent back, and the matter was settled by payment of a
portion of the duties demanded.

While halting at a creek, the asses being unloaded, some of the men went
in search of honey.  Unfortunately they disturbed a large swarm of bees,
which, rushing out, attacked both men and beasts.  The asses, being
loose, galloped off, but the horses and people were fearfully stung.

A fire, which had been kindled for cooking, being deserted, spread in
all directions, setting the bamboos in flames and very nearly destroying
their luggage.  Two of the asses died here, and others were missing.

Several of the soldiers now fell sick, and were mounted on the horses
and spare asses.

At Toombin, which the caravan reached on the 16th of June, in the
neighbourhood of Malacotta, the good old schoolmaster, Park's former
friend, arrived just as the baggage had started, having travelled all
night to visit him.  Park invited him to go forward to the next place
where they should halt, that he might reward him for his former
kindness.

After leaving the village he found Hinton, one of the party, to whom Mr
Anderson had lent his horse, lying under a tree, and the horse grazing
at a little distance.  Park put the sick man on the horse and drove it
before him, but was at length compelled to leave him.  A mile further on
he came to two others lying in the shade of a tree, whom he placed on
his own and Mr Anderson's horses, and carried on to the next village.
Hence he sent back for poor Hinton, and left the three in charge of the
_dooty_, giving him beads to purchase provisions for them should they
live, and to bury them if they died.

On the 22nd one of the carpenters was also left behind at his own
request.  A soldier, Bloore, lost his way in the woods while looking for
an ass which had strayed, and in the search another sick man, Walter,
was found.  He had laid himself down among the bushes.  He died soon
after being taken up, and Park with his sword, and two of the soldiers
with their bayonets, dug his grave in the desert, covering it over with
a few branches.

Thus, one by one, in rapid succession, Park's companions, attacked by
fever, either sank on the road or were left behind, too probably to
perish.

On the 30th of June both Mr Anderson and Mr Scott were attacked by the
fever.

While encamped during a violent tornado, when it was necessary to put
out the watch-fires, a peculiar roaring and growling was heard.
Supposing the sound to be that of wild boars, Park and Lieutenant Martyn
went in search of them and fired several shots into the bush.  The
natives on their return told them that they were not boars, but young
lions, and that unless a very good look out was kept they would probably
kill some of the cattle during the night.  About midnight the lions
attempted to seize one of the asses, which so alarmed the rest that they
broke the ropes and came full gallop in amongst the tents.  Two of the
lions followed so close that the sentry cut one with his sword, but
dared not fire for fear of killing the asses.

Both Anderson and Scott were worse, but Park urged them to proceed.
Alston, a seaman, had become so weak that he was unable to sit his
horse, and entreated to be left in the woods till the morning.  Park
gave him a loaded pistol and some cartridges to protect himself.

The next day, the 4th of July, the river Wanda, which they reached, was
found to be greatly swollen.  There was but one canoe.  In this the
baggage was carried over, and Isaaco endeavoured to make the asses cross
by swimming and pushing them before him.  While thus employed, just as
he reached the middle of the stream, a crocodile suddenly rose and,
seizing him by the left thigh, pulled him under water.  With wonderful
presence of mind he thrust his finger into the creature's eye; on which
it quitted its hold, and Isaaco attempted to reach the further shore,
calling out for a knife.  The crocodile returned and seized him by the
other thigh, and again pulled him under water.  He had recourse to the
same expedient, and thrust his finger into its eyes with such violence
that it again quitted him and, when it rose, after flouncing about, swam
down the stream.  Isaaco reached the other side, and as soon as the
canoe returned Park went over, and, having dressed his wounds with
adhesive plaster, he was carried to the nearest village, fortunately not
far off.  Park here found himself very ill and unable to stand erect
without feeling a tendency to faint, while all the people were so sickly
that they could with difficulty carry the loads into the tents, though
rain threatened.  Greatly to their astonishment, Ashton the sailor
arrived, with his fever much abated, but quite naked, having been
stripped of his clothes by some natives during the night.

Important as it was to push on, they found it impossible to do so
without Isaaco, whose recovery seemed doubtful, though the delay would
expose them to the full violence of the rain shortly to be expected.
Isaaco, under Park's care, notwithstanding his fears, rapidly recovered;
and on the 10th of July they were able once more to travel forward,
taking a west and north-west direction.

They were now exposed to the thieving propensities of the natives, who
took every opportunity of carrying off whatever they could lay their
hands on.  Among the chief robbers were the sons of a potentate called
Mansa Mumma, whose town they reached on the 12th.  As Park was looking
out for an easy ascent over some rocky ground, two of these young
princes, approaching, snatched his musket from his hand and ran off with
it.  He instantly sprang from his saddle and followed the robber with
his sword, calling to Mr Anderson to tell some of the people to look
after his horse.  Anderson got within musket-shot of the man, but,
seeing that he was Mumma's son, had some doubt about shooting him.  The
thief made his escape, and on Park's return he found that the other
prince had stolen his great coat.  An elder brother, who had been
engaged as a guide, told him that after what had happened he would be
justified in shooting the first who attempted to steal from the loads.
The soldiers were accordingly ordered to load their muskets and be
ready.  Notwithstanding this, a short time afterwards a man made a dash
at one of the asses which had strayed a little from the rest, took off
the load, and began to cut it open with his knife.  The soldiers fired,
but did not hit him, and he made his escape, leaving the load behind
him.  Another seized a soldier's knapsack and attempted to make off with
it.  The soldier covered him with his piece, but it flashed in the pan,
and the robber escaped.  Another robber, however, who had attempted to
carry off a great coat from an ass driven by one of the sick men, was
wounded, and Mansa's son insisted that he should be killed, as otherwise
they would not fulfil the orders of the king, who had directed that
every person be shot who stole from the caravan.

In this way, day after day, they were attacked, and they had little
doubt that one of the sick men who had fallen behind had been robbed and
murdered by these people.

A deep stream being reached, it was proposed to form a raft; but the
Mandingoes insisted that it would be necessary to build a bridge to
enable them to cross.  It was most ingeniously and rapidly constructed.
The people, however, were too sickly to carry the baggage over, and
negroes were therefore hired for the purpose, as well as to swim the
asses across.

Another of the soldiers here lay down and expired, and, as the sun was
very hot, it was impossible to stop and bury him.

As he was riding on, Park found Mr Scott lying by the side of the path,
too sick to walk, and, shortly afterwards, Lieutenant Martyn lay down in
the same state.

Pushing on to the town of Mareena, Park sent back a party to bring in
his sick companions.

Hence they proceeded to Bangassi, six miles distant, the capital of the
Chief Serenummo.  While encamped outside, one of the sick men, who had
been left under the shade of a tree, was nearly being torn to pieces by
wolves, which he found, on awakening, smelling at his feet.  Ill as he
was, he started up and rushed to the camp.

Here the corporal died, and several soldiers, as well as one of the
carpenters, insisted on being left behind.  Park handed to the _dooty's_
son a quantity of amber and other articles of trade, that the poor men
might be taken care of.

Poor Park's troubles increased.  Mr Scott, who rode his horse,
continued very ill, and the soldiers were so weak that, when the loads
fell off the asses, they were unable to lift them on again.  In the
course of one day's march Park himself had to assist in re-loading
thirteen of the animals.  The caravan was also followed by wolves, who
prowled round them during the night, showing too plainly what would be
the fate of any of the sick men who dropped behind.  Provisions also
became scarce, and thieves likewise dodged their footsteps, taking every
opportunity of robbing them.

On the 10th of August, as Park, who was bringing up the rear, reached a
stream, he found many of the soldiers sitting on the ground, and Mr
Anderson was lying under a bush, apparently dying.  He took his
brother-in-law on his back, and carried him across the stream, though it
took him up to his middle.  He had then to carry other loads, and get
the animals over, having thus to cross sixteen times.  He then put Mr
Anderson on his horse and conveyed him to the next village, where,
however, a solitary fowl was the only food he could obtain.

During the last two marches four more men had been lost, and, though Mr
Scott was somewhat recovered, Mr Anderson was in a very dangerous
state.  He struggled on, however, for another day, when, after he had
passed a number of sick men, Mr Anderson declared that he could ride no
further.  Park, having turned the horses and ass to feed, sat down in
the shade to watch the pulsations of his dying friend.  In the evening,
there being a fine breeze, Mr Anderson agreed to make another attempt
to move on, in the hopes of reaching a town before dark.  They had not
proceeded above a mile, when they heard a noise very much like the bark
of a large mastiff, but ending in a hiss like that of a cat.  Mr
Anderson was observing: "What a bouncing fellow that must be," when
another bark nearer to them was heard, and presently a third,
accompanied by a growl a short distance further.  Coming to an opening
in the bushes, three enormous lions of a dusky colour were seen bounding
over the long grass, abreast of each other, towards them.  Fearing that,
should they come near, and his piece miss fire, the lions would seize
them, Park advanced and shot at the centre one.  The animals stopped,
looked at each other, and then bounded away, and, though one again
stopped while he was loading his piece, they all disappeared.  The
lions, however, followed him; but Mr Anderson having a boatswain's
call, Park took it and whistled, and made as much noise as possible, so
that they did not again molest him.  Notwithstanding Mr Anderson's
reduced condition he persevered in travelling, and, being placed in a
hammock constructed out of a cloak, was carried along by two men.  Mr
Scott, however, complaining of sickness, shortly afterwards dropped
behind.

On entering Doomblia during heavy rain, greatly to his satisfaction Park
met Kafa Taura, the worthy negro merchant who had been so kind to him on
his former journey.  He had now come a considerable distance to see him.

From hence he sent back to enquire for Mr Scott, but no information
could be obtained about him.

On the 19th of August the sad remnant of the expedition ascended the
mountainous ridge which separates the Niger from the remote branches of
the Senegal.  Mr Park hastened on ahead, and, coming to the brow of the
hill, once more saw the mighty river making its way in a broad stream
through the plain.

Descending from thence towards Bambakoo, the travellers pitched their
tents under a tree near that town.

Of the thirty-four soldiers and four carpenters who left the Gambia,
only six soldiers and one carpenter reached the Niger, three having died
during the previous day's march.

As the only canoe Park could obtain would carry but two persons besides
their goods, he and Mr Anderson embarked in it, leaving Mr Martyn and
the men to come down by land with the asses.  He himself was suffering
greatly from dysentery.  In the evening they landed on some flat rocks
near the shore, and were cooking their supper, when the rain came down,
and continued with great violence all night.

The next day Mr Martyn and the rest of the people overtook them.

On the following day Isaaco, having performed the task he had
undertaken, of guiding them to the Niger, received the payment agreed
on; and Park likewise gave him several articles, and told him that when
the palaver was adjusted at Sego, he should have all the horses and
asses for his trouble.

He here also prepared the present he purposed to offer to Mansong, the
king of Bambarra, and which he sent forward to Sego by Isaaco.

Every day brought them some unfavourable news or other.  At one time it
was reported that Mansong had killed Isaaco with his own hand, and
threatened to do the same with all the whites who should come into
Bambarra.  These reports proved to be false, for Isaaco himself arrived
in a canoe from Sego, bringing back all the articles sent to Mansong,
who had directed that they should be taken up to Samee, and that he
would send a person to receive them from Park's own hands.  Mansong had
promised that the expedition should pass, but whenever Isaaco mentioned
it particularly, or related any incident that had happened on the
journey, Mansong began to make squares and triangles in the sand before
him with his finger, and continued to do so as long as Isaaco spoke
about them.  This the superstitious monarch probably did to defend
himself against the supposed incantations of the white man.

On the 22nd of September the chief counsellor of Mansong, Modibinne, and
four grandees, arrived by a canoe, bringing a fat milk-white bullock as
a present.  Next morning Modibinne and the grandees came to the camp and
desired Park to acquaint them with the motives which had induced him to
come into their country.  Park explained them, telling them that it was
his wish to sail down the Joliba, or Niger, to the place where it mixes
with the salt water, and that if the navigation was found open, the
white men would send up vessels to trade at Sego, should Mansong wish
it.  Modibinne replied that the object of the journey was a good one,
and prayed that God would prosper it, adding, "Mansong will protect
you."

The presents intended for the king were then spread out, and appeared to
give great satisfaction.  Two more soldiers died that evening.  On the
26th the expedition, in open canoes, left Samee.  Park felt himself very
unwell, and the heat was intense, sufficient to have roasted a sirloin.
Isaaco, however, having formed an awning over the canoe with four sticks
and a couple of cloaks, Park found himself better.

On the 2nd two other privates died, the body of one of whom the wolves
carried off, the door of the hut having been left open.

Wishing to obtain cowries, Park opened a market at Marroboo to dispose
of his goods, and so great was the demand for them that he had to employ
three tellers at once to count his cash.  In one day he turned 25,756
pieces of money-cowries.

The sad news now reached him of the Mr Scott's death, and on the 28th
of October his brother-in-law, Mr Anderson, breathed his last.  "No
event," Park remarks, "which took place during the journey ever threw
the smallest gloom over his mind till he laid Mr Anderson in the grave.
He then felt himself left a second time lonely and friendless amidst
the wilds of Africa."

Some days before this, Isaaco had returned with a large canoe, but much
decayed and patched.  Park, therefore, with the assistance of Bolton,
one of the surviving soldiers, took out all the rotten pieces, and, by
adding on the portion of another canoe, with eighteen days' hard labour
they changed the Bambarra canoe into his Majesty's schooner "Joliba."
Her length was forty feet, breadth six feet; and, being flat-bottomed,
she drew only one foot of water when loaded.  In this craft he and his
surviving companions embarked on the 16th of November, on which day his
journal closes.  He intended next morning to commence his adventurous
voyage down the Joliba.  Besides Park and Lieutenant Martyn, two
Europeans only survived.  They had purchased three slaves to assist in
the navigation of the vessel, and Isaaco had engaged Amadi Fatouma to
succeed him as interpreter.  This increased their number to nine.

Descending the stream, they passed the Silla and Jenne without
molestation; but lower down, in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, they
were followed by armed canoes, which they beat off, killing several of
the natives.  They had, indeed, to fight their way down past a number of
places, once striking on the rocks, and being nearly overset by a
hippopotamus which rose near them.

Having a large stock of provisions, they were able to proceed without
going on shore.  Amadi was the only person who landed in order to get
fresh provisions.

At Yaour Park sent a present to the king by one of the chiefs, but, the
chief inquiring whether he intended to return, Park replied that he had
no purpose of doing so.  This induced the chief to withhold the presents
from the king, and who, accordingly, indignant at being thus treated,
put Amadi into irons, took all his goods from him, and sent a force to
occupy a rock overhanging the river where it narrows greatly.  On
arriving at this place, Park endeavoured to pass through, when the
people began to throw lances and stones at him.  He and his companions
defended themselves for a long time, till two of his slaves in the stern
of the boat were killed.

Finding no hopes of escape, Park took hold of one of the white men and
jumped into the water, and Martyn did the same, hoping to reach the
shore, but were drowned in the attempt.  The only slave remaining in the
boat, seeing the natives persist in throwing their weapons, entreated
them to stop.  On this they took possession of the canoe and the man,
and carried them to the king.  Amadi, after being kept in irons three
months, was liberated, and on finding the slave who had been taken in
the canoe, learned from him the manner in which Mr Park and his
companions had perished.  The only article left in the canoe had been a
sword-belt, which Isaaco, who was afterwards despatched to learn
particulars of the tragedy, obtained--the sole relic of the expedition.

Park could not have been aware of the numerous rapids and other
difficulties he would have had to encounter on descending the upper
portion of the Niger.  In all probability his frail and ill-constructed
vessel would have been wrecked before he had proceeded many miles below
the spot where he lost his life.  Had he, however, succeeded in passing
that dangerous portion, he might have navigated the mighty stream to its
mouth.

Although at first the account of Park's death was not believed in
England, subsequent enquiries left no doubt that all the statements were
substantially correct.

Thus perished, in the prime of life, that heroic traveller, at the very
time when he had good reason to believe that he was about to solve the
problem of the Niger's course.



CHAPTER FIVE.

TRAVELS OF DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.

PRECEDED BY HORNEMAN--ROENTGEN--TUCKEY AND OTHERS--MAJOR LAING'S
JOURNEY--LIEUTENANT CLAPPERTON AND DR. OUDNEY, JOINED BY MAJOR DENHAM,
LEAVE TRIPOLI--DIFFICULTIES WITH THE PACHA--DENHAM SAILS FOR ENGLAND--
THE PACHA SENDS AFTER HIM--BOO-KHALOUM APPOINTED CONDUCTOR--JOURNEY
ACROSS THE DESERT--ILLNESS OF CLAPPERTON AND OUDNEY--NUMBERLESS
SKELETONS OF SLAVES--ARABS' ILL-TREATMENT OF THE NATIVES--LAKE CHAD--
EMPIRE OF BORNOU--RECEPTION AT KOUKA BY THE SHEIKH--BODY-GUARD OF THE
SHEIKH--BARCA GANA, HIS GENERAL--VISIT TO THE SULTAN OF BIRNIE--ELEPHANT
AND BUFFALO HUNTING--DENHAM JOINS AN EXPEDITION UNDER BACA GANA--MEET
THE SULTAN OF MANDARA--ATTACK ON THE FELATAHS--DENHAM NEARLY LOSES HIS
LIFE--BOO-KHALOUM KILLED--BARCA GANA'S TROOPS TAKE TO FLIGHT--THE MAJOR
KINDLY TREATED BY A DEPOSED PRINCE--RETURNS TO KOUKA.

Between Park's two expeditions, several travellers endeavoured to solve
some of the many problems connected with the geography of Africa.

The first person sent out by the Association was a young German,
Frederick Horneman, in the character of an Arab merchant.  He travelled
from Alexandria to Cairo, where he was imprisoned by the natives on the
news arriving of Bonaparte's landing in the country.  He was, however,
liberated by the French, and set out on the 5th of September, 1798, with
a caravan destined for Fezzan.

On one occasion, when passing through Siwah, the bigoted Mahommedan
inhabitants surrounded the caravan, having heard that two Christians
belonged to it, and promising to let it proceed provided these were
delivered up to them.  Having, however, by his knowledge of the Koran,
satisfied them that he was a true Mahommedan, being protected by the
other members of the caravan, he was allowed to proceed.

He reached Mourzouk in safety, and there endeavoured to gain information
about the states to the south of Timbuctoo.  He, however, heard but
little, though he found that Houssa was not, as supposed, a city, but a
region embracing many kingdoms, the inhabitants of which were said to be
superior in civilisation to those of the surrounding people.

He remained here for a considerable time, and then visited Tripoli,
after which he returned to Mourzouk, and started thence in April, 1800.

From that time no information was received directly from him; but Major
Denham many years afterwards learned that he had penetrated as far as
Nyffe on the Niger, where he fell a victim to disease.

Another German, Roentgen, also sent out by the Association in 1809,
started from Mogadore and, it is supposed, was murdered by his guides.

Two Americans, one a seaman, named Adams, and the other a supercargo,
James, having been wrecked on the west coast at different periods,
travelled for a considerable distance through the north-west portion of
the continent.  Adams was carried to Timbuctoo, where he remained six
months in 1810.  He found the city chiefly inhabited by negroes; and he
describes the few religious ceremonies which took place as pagan.  The
city had lately been conquered by the king of Bambarra, who had
established there a negro government.  Even the largest houses were
little more than huts, built of timber frames filled in with earth.  He
was ultimately liberated by the British consul at Mogadore.

Riley, who was wrecked in 1815, was carried as a slave through the
country.  From a caravan merchant, Sidi Hamet, who purchased him from
his first captors, he obtained much information about the country.  From
the account he received, it appears at that time that Timbuctoo was
larger and better built than Adams described it.  Sidi Hamet also
travelled a considerable distance down the banks of the Niger, which,
though at first running due east, afterwards turned to the south-east.
Travelling sixty days, he reached Wassanah, a place twice as large as
Timbuctoo, the inhabitants being hospitable and kind-hearted.  From
thence he heard that boats with cargoes of slaves sailed two months,
first south and then west, down the river, till they came to the sea,
where they met white people in vessels armed with guns.  This was the
most correct account hitherto received of the course of the Niger.
Riley was also rescued by the English consul at Mogadore.

In 1816 the English Government sent out an expedition to proceed up the
Congo, under Captain Tuckey, but he and his followers fell victims to
the climate.

At the same time another expedition had started under Major Peddie, and
Captain Campbell, but they both, with Lieutenant Stokoe, of the navy,
died the following year.

In 1821 Major Laing, starting from Sierra Leone, made a journey in
search of the source of the Niger, but was compelled to return.

In 1819 Mr Ritchie, with Lieutenant Lyon, of the navy, started from
Tripoli, intending to proceed southward to Bornou, in order to trace the
downward course of the Niger, but Mr Ritchie died, and Lieutenant Lyon
was unable to get further than the southern frontier of Fezzan.

Owing to the judicious conduct of Mr Warrington, the British Consul at
Tripoli, the English were held in high estimation at that court, and the
pacha, who was looked upon by the wild tribes of the south as the most
potent of all monarchs, assured him that any of his countrymen could
travel with perfect safety from his territories to Bornou.

The Government, therefore, considering circumstances so favourable,
organised a fresh expedition, headed by Lieutenant Clapperton and Dr
Oudney, of the Navy.  Major Denham having volunteered his services, they
were accepted, and he joined his intended companions at Tripoli.  He was
accompanied by Mr Hillman, a shipwright, who undertook to direct the
building of a vessel on the Niger.

After visiting the pacha, and having accompanied him on a hawking party
in the desert, Major Denham set out on the 5th of March, 1822, to join
his two companions, who had gone forward to the beautiful valley of
Memoom.

When near Sockna, they met a _kafila_, or caravan of slaves, in which
were about seventy negroes, who told them that they came from the
different regions of Soudan, Begharmi, and Kanem.  Those from Soudan had
regular features and a pleasing expression of countenance.

On reaching Mourzouk they were disappointed in their expectation of
receiving assistance from the sultan, who declared that it was
impossible to obtain either camels or horses before the next spring, to
enable them to proceed.  Finding this, Major Denham determined to return
to Tripoli, to represent to the pacha that something besides mere
promises must be given.

Attended by his negro servant, Barca, he reached that town on the 12th
of June, and the pacha himself showing little inclination to render
assistance, he at once started for England, to represent the state of
affairs to the Government.  He was, however, overtaken at Marseilles by
a messenger from the pacha entreating him to return, and assuring him
that he had appointed a well-known caravan leader, Boo-Khaloum, with an
escort to convey him to Bornou.

On his return to Africa he found Boo-Khaloum and part of the escort
already waiting for him at the entrance of the desert.  His new friend
delighted in pomp and show, and he and his attendants entered Sockna
attired in magnificent costumes, their chief himself riding a beautiful
Tunisian horse, the saddle and housing richly adorned with scarlet cloth
and gold.  This African caravan merchant united the character of a
warlike chief and trader, his followers being trained not only to fight
in defence of his property, but to attack towns and carry off the
hapless inhabitants as slaves.  Yet Book-Haloum was superior to most of
his age; he possessed an enlarged and liberal mind, and was considered
an honourable and humane man, while so great was his generosity that he
was adored by his people.

On the 30th of October the caravan entered Mourzouk with all the parade
and pomp they could muster.  Boo-Khaloum's liberality had made him so
popular that a large portion of the inhabitants of the town came out to
welcome him.

Major Denham was greatly disappointed at not seeing his friends among
the crowd.  He found that Dr Oudney was suffering from a complaint in
his chest, and that Clapperton was confined to his bed; indeed the
climate of Mourzouk is evidently very unhealthy.

The arrangements for starting were not completed until the 29th of
November.  In the meantime the other members of the expedition had
somewhat recovered.  Major Denham had engaged a native of the Island of
Saint Vincent, of the name of Simpkins, but who, having traversed half
the world over, had acquired that of Columbus.  He spoke Arabic
perfectly, and three European languages.  Three negroes were also hired,
and a Gibraltar Jew, Jacob, who acted as store-keeper.  These, with four
men to look after their camels, Mr Hillman and themselves, made up
their household to thirteen persons.  Several merchants also joined
their party.  Besides these, the caravan comprised one hundred and ten
Arabs, marshalled in tens and twenties under their different chiefs.

The Arabs in the service of the pacha, who were to escort them to
Bornou, behaved admirably, and enlivened them greatly on their dreary
desert road by their wit and sagacity, as well as by their poetry,
extemporary and traditional.

The camels and tents having been sent on before, the party started on
horseback on the evening of the day mentioned.  Dr Oudney was suffering
from his cough, and neither Clapperton nor Hillman had got over their
ague, a bad condition in which to commence their arduous journey.

The heat when crossing the desert was great; not a bird nor an insect
was to be seen moving through the air; but the nights were beautiful and
perfectly still, gentle breezes cooling the air.  By digging a few
inches into the hot, loose soil, a cool and soft bed was obtained.
Through wide districts the surface was covered with salt, and from the
sides of hollows where it was broken, hung beautiful crystals like the
finest frost-work.

Before proceeding far, objects sufficient to create the deepest horror
in their minds were met with.  In all directions the ground was covered
with the skeletons of those who had perished in attempting to cross the
wilderness.  At first only one or two were seen, but afterwards as many
as fifty or sixty were passed in a day.  At one place a hundred were
found together, and near the wells of El Hammar they were lying too
thickly to be counted.  One morning as Denham, dozing on his horse, was
riding, he was startled by a peculiar sound of something crashing under
the animal's feet, and, on looking down, he found that he was trampling
over two human skeletons, one of the horse's feet having driven a skull
before him like a ball.  To some of the bones portions of the flesh and
hair still adhered, and the features of others were distinguishable.
Two skeletons of females lay close together, who had evidently died in
each other's arms.

The Arabs, accustomed to such scenes, laughed at the sympathy exhibited
by the English, observing, with a curse on their fathers, that they were
only blacks.  There can be no doubt that the larger group consisted of a
number of slaves captured by the Sultan of Fezzan, during a late
expedition he had made into Soudan.  His troops, having left Bornou with
an insufficient supply of provisions, allowed their unhappy captives to
perish, while they made their escape with the food intended to support
them.

One evening the major exhibited a book of drawings made by Captain Lyon,
to Boo-Khaloum.  The portraits he understood, but he could not
comprehend the landscapes, and would look at one upside down.  On seeing
a beautiful print of sand-wind in the desert, though it was twice
reversed, he exclaimed: "Why, it is all the same!"  Probably a European,
even, who had never before cast his eye on the representation of a
landscape, would be long before he could appreciate the beauties of the
picture.  One beautiful moonlight evening Denham exhibited his
telescope.  An old _hadji_, after he had been helped to fix the glass on
the moon, uttering an exclamation of wonder, walked off as fast as he
could, repeating words from the Koran.

Few adventures were met with; but one whole day the travellers were
annoyed by a strong east wind, and the next day the wind and drifting
sand were so violent that they were compelled to keep their tents.  They
had to sit in their shirts, as the sand could thus be shaken off as soon
as it made a lodgment, which with any other articles of dress could not
be done.  Denham found the greatest relief by rubbing the neck and
shoulders with oil, and being shampooed by his servant, Barca's wife,
who, when a slave in the palace of the pacha, had learned the art.

The Tibboos, a tribe who had for some time accompanied them, went off to
obtain some sheep, an ox, honey, milk and fat.  On their return the milk
turned out sour camels' milk, full of sand, and the fat very rancid,
while a single lean sheep was purchased for two dollars.

Some of their horses were very handsome and extremely fat, which arose
from being fed entirely on camels' milk, corn being too scarce for the
Tibboos to spare them.

The girls of this tribe were pretty, but the men extremely ugly.

Their Arabs, who were sent as an escort to oppose banditti, after a time
became dissatisfied at having nothing to do, and were evidently
contemplating inroads on the inhabitants.

Denham, with Boo-Khaloum and a dozen horsemen, each having a footman
behind him, started off towards a spot where some Tibboo tents had been
seen.  On their arrival they found that the shepherds had moved off,
knowing well how they should be treated by the white people, as they
called the Arabs.  Their caution was made the excuse for plundering
them.  "What! not stay to sell their sheep? the rogues!" exclaimed the
Arabs.

After a time they came in sight of two hundred head of cattle and about
twenty persons--men, women and children--with camels, moving off.  The
Arabs, slipping from behind their leaders, with a shout, rushed down the
hill, part running towards the cattle to prevent their escape.  The
unfortunate people were rapidly plundered, the camels were brought to
the ground and the whole of their loads rifled.  The poor women and
girls lifted up their hands, stripped as they were to the skin, but
Denham felt that he could do nothing for them beyond saving their lives.

When Boo-Khaloum came up, however, he seemed ashamed of the paltry booty
his followers had obtained, and Denham seized the favourable moment to
advise that the Arabs should give everything back, and have a few sheep
and an ox for a feast.  He gave the order, and the property was
restored, with the exception of ten sheep and a fat bullock.

An old _maraboot_ assured Denham that to plunder those who left their
tents, instead of supplying travellers, was quite lawful.  Too often the
natives are not only plundered, but murdered, by the armed attendants of
caravans as they make their way across the desert.

The natives, as may be supposed, retaliate.  Should any animal straggle
from the main body, it is certain to be carried off.  Major Denham lost
a favourite dog, which was captured and eaten.

On reaching Lara, a small town of conical-topped rush huts, to the
delight of the travellers they saw before them, from a rising ground,
the boundless expanse of Lake Chad, glowing with the golden rays of the
sun.  They hastened down to the shores of this large inland sea, which
was darkened with numberless birds of varied plumage--ducks, geese,
pelicans and cranes four or five feet high, immense spoonbills of snowy
whiteness, yellow-legged plovers--all quietly feeding at half
pistol-shot.  A large basket to supply their larder was soon filled.

Moving along the shores of the lake, the caravan arrived at Woodie, a
negro town of considerable size.  It was here arranged that the caravan
should wait till an embassy could be sent to the Sheikh of Bornou, to
obtain permission for presenting themselves before him.

The empire of Bornou had, some twenty years before, been overrun and
subjected by the Felatahs, a powerful people to the west.  The present
sheikh, a native of Kanem, though of humble birth, had by his superior
talents and energy rallied round him a band of warriors, and, pretending
that he had received a command from the prophet, hoisted the green flag,
and had in a few months driven the invaders out of the country, which
they had never since been able to occupy, though frequently attacking
his borders.

While waiting for the sheikh's reply, Major Denham rode out early one
morning in search of a herd of a hundred and fifty elephants, which had
been seen the day before.  He found them about six miles from the town,
on ground annually overflowed by the waters of the lake.  They seemed to
cover the whole face of the country, and exceeded the number he expected
to see.  Often, when forced by hunger, they approach the towns and
spread devastation throughout their march, whole plantations being
destroyed in a single night.  Some antelopes were also seen, but they
never allowed the party to get near enough to hazard a shot.

The country for the last eighteen days of their journey had been covered
with a grass which produces a calyx full of prickles.  These adhere to
the dress and penetrate to the skin, to which they fasten themselves
like grappling-irons.  They got between the toes of the poor dog Niger,
and into every part of his long silken hair, so as to make him unable to
walk.

At the next camping-place hyaenas came close to their tents and killed a
camel, on the carcase of which a lion, when he had driven them away,
banqueted, when they returned and devoured what he had left.

Several days' journey took the caravan into the neighbourhood of Kouka.
They had been told that the sheikh's soldiers were a few ragged negroes,
armed with spears, who lived upon the plunder of the black Kaffir
countries.  Greatly to their astonishment, as they approached the town
they beheld a body of several thousand cavalry, drawn up in line and
extending right and left as far as they could see.

As the Arabs approached, a yell was given by the sheikhs people, which
rent the air; and a blast being blown from their rude instruments, they
moved on to meet Boo-Khaloum and his Arabs.  Small bodies kept charging
rapidly towards them, to within a few feet of their horses' heads,
without checking the speed of their own until the moment of their
halting; then they wheeled at their utmost speed with great precision,
shaking their spears over their heads, exclaiming, "_Baka_ _baka_!"
("Blessing! blessing!") They quickly, however, surrounded the caravan so
as to prevent it moving on, which greatly enraged Boo-Khaloum, but to no
purpose, as he was only answered by shrieks of welcome, and spears
unpleasantly rattled over the traveller's heads.  In a short time, Barca
Gana, the sheikh's first general--a negro of noble aspect, clothed in a
figured silk _tobe_, mounted on a beautiful Mandara horse--made his
appearance, and cleared away those who had pressed upon them, when the
party moved on slowly towards the city.

Arrived at the gates, Boo-Khaloum, with the English and about a dozen of
his followers, alone were allowed to enter.  They proceeded along a wide
street completely lined with spearmen on foot, with cavalry in front of
them, to the door of the sheikh's residence.  Here the horsemen were
formed up three deep, and the party halted while some of the chief's
attendants came out and, after a great many "_Baka's! baka's_!" retired,
when others performed the same ceremony.  On this, Boo-Khaloum again
lost patience, and swore by the pacha's head that he would return to his
tents, if he was not immediately admitted.  Denham advised him to
submit, and Barca Gana, appearing, invited him to dismount.  The English
were about to do the same, when an officer intimated that the Arab alone
was to be admitted.

Another half-hour, and the gates were again opened, and the four
Englishmen were called for.  The strictest etiquette appeared to be kept
up at the sheikh's court; but the major and his companions declined
doing more in the way of reverence than bending their heads and laying
their right-hands on their hearts.  They found the sheikh sitting on a
carpet, in a small, dark room.  He was plainly dressed in a blue _tobe_
of Soudan and a small turban, with armed negroes on either side of him,
and weapons hung up on the walls.  His personal appearance was
prepossessing, and he had an expressive countenance and a benevolent
smile.

After he had received the letter from the pacha, he enquired what was
their object in coming.  They answered, to see the country and to give
an account of its inhabitants, produce and appearance, as their sultan
was desirous of knowing every part of the globe.  His reply was that
they were welcome, and whatever he could show them would give him
pleasure.

Huts had been built for them and an abundance of provisions was
provided, though the number of their visitors gave them not a moment's
peace, while the heat was insufferable.

Next day they had another audience, to deliver their presents.  With the
firearms, especially, the sheikh was highly delighted, and he showed
evident satisfaction on their assuring him that the king of England had
heard of Bornou and himself.  Immediately turning to his councillors, he
observed: "This is in consequence of our defeating the Begharmis."  Upon
this the chief who had most distinguished himself in this memorable
battle, Bagah Furby, demanded: "Did he ever hear of me?"  The reply of
"Certainly!" did wonders for their cause.  "Ah, then your king must be a
great man!" was re-echoed from every side.

Every morning, besides presents of bullocks, camel-loads of wheat and
rice, leather skins of butter, jars of honey, and wooden bowls
containing rice with meat, and paste made of barley flour--savoury, but
very greasy--were sent to them.

In a short time--by the exhibition of rockets, a musical box, and other
wonders--Denham appeared to have entirely won the sheikh's confidence.
Reports, however, had been going about that the English had come to spy
out the land, and intended to build ships on Lake Chad, in which they
would sail about and conquer the surrounding country.  Reports were now
received that the Begharmis were approaching Bornou, and it was said
that the sheikh would immediately send a force into their country, in
order to punish their sultan for even thinking of revenge.

The sheikh, in the meantime, had given them leave to visit all the towns
in his dominions, but on no account to go beyond them.  He asked many
questions about the English manner of attacking a walled town; and, on
hearing that they had guns which carried ball of thirty-two pounds'
weight, with which the walls were breached, and that then the place was
taken by assault, his large dark eyes sparkled again, as he exclaimed:
"Wonderful! wonderful!"

Although the sheikh was the real ruler of the country, he allowed the
existence of the hereditary sultan, a mere puppet, who resided at
Birnie.  Boo-Khaloum advised that they should pay their respects to this
sovereign; and they accordingly set out for the place, which contained
about ten thousand inhabitants.  They were first conducted to the gate
of the sultan's mud edifice, where a few of the court were assembled to
receive them.  One, a sort of chamberlain, habited in eight or ten
_tobes_, or shirts, of different colours, carried an immense staff, and
on his head was a turban of prodigious size, though but a trifling one
compared to those they were destined to see at the audience on the
following morning.  A large marquee was pitched for their reception,
which they found luxuriously cool.  In the evening a plentiful repast
was brought them, consisting of seventy dishes, each of which would have
dined half-a-dozen persons with moderate appetites; and for fear the
English should not eat like the Bornouy, a slave or two arrived loaded
with live fowls for their dinner.

Soon after daylight the next morning they were summoned to attend the
sultan.  He received them in an open space in front of the royal
residence.  They were compelled to stop at a considerable distance from
him, while his own people approached to within about a hundred yards,
passing first on horseback, and, after dismounting and prostrating
themselves before him, they took their places on the ground in front,
but with their backs to the royal person.  He was seated in a sort of
cage made of cane, on a throne which appeared to be covered with silk or
satin.  Nothing could be more absurd and grotesque than the figures who
formed his court.  The sheikh, to make himself popular with all parties,
allowed the sultan to be amused by indulging in all the folly and
bigotry of the ancient negro sovereigns.  Large bellies and large heads
are considered the proper attributes of the courtiers, and those who do
not possess the former by nature, make up the deficiency of protuberance
by a wadding, which, as they sit on horseback, gives them a most
extraordinary appearance, while the head is enveloped in folds of muslin
or linen of various colours, of such size as to make the head appear
completely on one side.  The turbans are, besides, hung all-over with
charms enclosed in little red leather bags.  The horse is also adorned
in the same manner.

When the courtiers had taken their seats, the visitors were desired to
sit down.  On this, the ugliest black that can be imagined, the only
person who approached the sultan's seat, asked for the presents.
Boo-Khaloum produced them, enclosed in a large shawl, and they were
carried unopened into the presence of the sultan.  The English, by some
omission, had brought no presents.

A little to their left was an extemporary declaimer, shouting forth the
praises of his master, with his pedigree, and near him stood a man with
a long, wooden trumpet, on which he ever and anon blew a blast.

Nothing could be more ridiculous than the appearance of these people,
squatting down in their places, tottering under the weight and magnitude
of their turbans and their bellies, while the thin legs that appeared
underneath but ill accorded with the bulk of the other part.

Immediately after the ceremony the travellers took their departure for
Angornou, a town containing at least thirty thousand inhabitants.  The
market-place was crowded with people, and there were a number of
beggars.  Linen was so cheap that all the men wore shirts and trousers;
but the beggars were seen holding up the arms of an old pair of the
latter, touching the shirt at the same time, and exclaiming: "But
breeches there are none; but breeches there are none."  This novel mode
of drawing the attention of the passers-by so amused Denham that he
could not help laughing outright.

He was, however, anxious to visit a large river to the southward of
Kouka, called the Shary; but was delayed by Dr Oudney's serious
illness, and the unsettled state of Book-Haloum's affairs with the
Arabs; indeed, so mutinous had some of these become, that he was at last
compelled to send thirty of them back again to Fezzan.

Hillman had greatly pleased the sheikh by manufacturing a couple of
chests, and he was now requested to make a sort of litter, such as the
sheikh had heard were used by the sultans of Fezzan.

Among other presents, the sheikh sent them a young lion about three
months old.  It was a tame, good-natured creature, but as Denham was
under the necessity of refusing the animal a corner of his hut, it was
immediately in consequence killed.

During the illness of his companions Major Denham made an excursion to
the shores of Lake Chad, accompanied by Maraymy, an intelligent black,
to whose charge he had been committed by the sheikh, where numerous
elephants and some beautiful antelopes were seen.  The sheikh's people,
as they came near the elephants, began screeching violently.  The
animals, though moving a little away, erected their ears, and gave a
roar that shook the ground under them.  One was an immense fellow.  The
party wheeled swiftly round him, and Maraymy casting a spear at him,
which struck him just under the tail, the huge brute threw up his
proboscis in the air with a loud roar, and from it cast such a volume of
sand as nearly to blind the major, who was approaching at the time.

The elephant rarely if ever attacks, but, when irritated, he will
sometimes rush upon a man on horseback, and, after choking him with
dust, destroy him in a moment.

Pursued by the horsemen, the animal made off at a clumsy, rolling walk,
but sufficient to keep the steeds at a full gallop.  The major fired
twice at fifty yards' distance.  The first shot which struck the animal
failed to make the least impression, and the second, though wounding him
in the ear, seemed to give him a moment's uneasiness only.  After
another spear had been darted at him, which flew off his rough hide
without exciting the least sensation, the elephant made his escape.

The Shooas, the original inhabitants of the country, are great hunters.
Mounted on horseback, a Shooa hunter seeks the buffalo in the swampy
regions near the lake, and, driving the animal he has selected to the
firm ground, rides on till he gets close alongside, when, springing up,
he stands with one foot on his horse and the other on the back of the
buffalo, through which he plunges his spear, driving it with tremendous
force into its heart.

Denham heard of people called Kerdies, who inhabited islands far away in
the eastern part of the lake.  They frequently make plundering
excursions even close up to Angornou, and carry off cattle and people in
their canoes, no means being taken to oppose them.

The sheikh was very unwilling that his white visitor should cross the
Shary, for fear of the danger he would run.

At length an opportunity occurred of seeing the country, which Denham
determined not to let slip.  Boo-Khaloum, though sorely against his
will, had been induced by his Arabs to plan an expedition against the
pagan inhabitants of some villages in the mountains of Mandara, in order
to carry them off as slaves to Fezzan.  He, wishing rather to visit the
commercial regions of Soudan, long held out against these nefarious
proposals.  The sheikh, who wished to punish the people who were
constantly in arms against him, instigated the Arabs to induce
Boo-Khaloum to undertake the expedition, and at length, believing that
by no other means could he hope to make a profitable journey, he was
induced to comply.  The sheikh, however, was unwilling that Major Denham
should be exposed to the dangers he would meet with, but, as he had
determined to go, at last gave his consent, appointing Maraymy to attend
him, and to be answerable for his safety.

Boo-Khaloum and his Arabs, with the sheikh's forces under his general,
Barca Gana, had already got some distance ahead.  Accompanied by
Maraymy, Denham overtook them when several miles from the city, and was
received with great civility by Barca Gana in his tent.  He had been
kept some minutes outside while the general consulted his charm writer,
and his remark as he entered was: "If it was the will of God, the
stranger should come to no harm, and that he would do all in his power
for his convenience."

Barca Gana had about two thousand of the sheikh's soldiers under his
command.  He was himself, however, only a slave, but from his bravery
had been raised by his master to the rank of Governor of Angala and all
the towns on the Shary, as well as that of commander-in-chief of his
troops.  He was accompanied by several guards of horse and foot, and a
band of five men, three of whom carried a sort of drum, who sang
extemporary songs while they beat time; another carried a pipe made of a
reed, and a fifth blew on a buffalo's horn loud and deep-toned blasts.
As he advanced through the forest he was preceded by twelve pioneers,
who carried long forked poles, with which they kept back the branches as
the party moved forward; at the same time they pointed out any dangers
in the road.

The heat was intense.  Into a lake at which they arrived the horses
rushed by hundreds, making the water as thick as pea-soup.  As the
major's camel had not come up, he could not pitch his tent, and he was
compelled to lie down in the best shade he could find, and cover himself
completely with a cloth and a thick woollen bournous, to keep up a
little moisture, by excluding all external air.

After several days' march they arrived near the capital of Mandara,
whose sultan sent out several of his chiefs to meet them.  Near the town
of Delow the sultan himself appeared, surrounded by about five hundred
horsemen.  Different parties of these troops charged up to the front of
Barca Gana's forces, and, wheeling suddenly round, galloped back again.
They were handsomely dressed in Soudan _tobes_ of different colours--
dark blue and striped with yellow and red; bournouses of coarse scarlet
cloth, with large turbans of white or dark-coloured cotton.  Their
horses were really beautiful--larger and more powerful than any seen in
Bornou.  They managed them with great skill.

A parley was now carried on.  This sultan was an ally of the sheikh, but
the people who were to be attacked were his own subjects, though, as
they were pagans, that mattered nothing.

Boo-Khaloum was, as usual, very sanguine of success.  He said he should
make the sultan handsome presents, and that he was quite sure a Kerdie
or pagan town full of people would be given him to plunder.

The Arabs eyed the Kerdie huts, now visible on the sides of the
mountains, with longing eyes, and, contrasting their own ragged
condition with the appearance of the Sultan of Mandara's people in their
rich _tobes_, observed to Book-Haloum that what they saw pleased them;
they would go no further; this would do.  They trusted for victory to
their guns--though many were wretched weapons, and their powder was
bad--declaring that arrows were nothing, and ten thousand spears of no
importance.  "We have guns! we have guns!" they shouted.  They were soon
to find that they made a fearful mistake.

The Sultan of Mandara had assisted the Sheikh Kanemy in driving out the
Felatahs, and, since then, supported by his powerful ally, had risen
greatly in power.  The Felatahs, indeed, were his principal enemies in
the neighbourhood, and he was only waiting for such an expedition as now
joined him to attack them.

The unfortunate Kerdies, who believed that they themselves were the
objects of the raid, beheld with dread the army of Barca Gana
bivouacking in the valley.  The fires, which were visible in the
different nests of the hapless mountaineers, threw a glare on the bold
peaks and bluff promontories of granite rock by which they were
surrounded, and produced a picturesque and somewhat awful appearance.
Denham could distinguish many of them through his telescope, making off
into the mountains, while others came down bearing leopard-skins, honey,
and slaves as peace offerings, as also asses and goats, with which the
mountains abound.  They, however, on this occasion, were not destined to
suffer.  The people of Musgu, whose country it had been reported that
the Arabs were to plunder, sent two hundred slaves and other presents to
the sultan.  As they entered and left the palace they threw themselves
on the ground, pouring sand on their heads, and uttering the most
piteous cries.

The sultan all this time had not informed Boo-Khaloum what district he
would allow him to attack, but observed that the Kerdie nations, being
extremely tractable, were becoming Mussulmans without force.

Major Denham had several interviews with this intelligent but bigoted
sultan, when he was greatly annoyed by the chief doctor of the court, or
_fighi_, Malem Chadily, who, because he was a Christian, endeavoured to
prejudice the mind of the sultan against him; indeed, the bigotry of
this court far surpassed that usually found among black tribes who have
become Mahommedans.  The major had been drawing with a lead pencil, when
he was carried into the presence of the sultan.  Malem Chadily on this
occasion pretended to treat him with great complaisance.

The courtiers were much astonished at seeing the effect produced by the
pencils, and the ease with which their traces were effaced by
india-rubber.  Several words were written by the doctor and others,
which were quickly rubbed out by the major.  At last, the doctor wrote:
"_Bismillah arachmani arachemi_" ("In the name of the great and most
merciful God") in large Koran characters.  He made so deep an impression
on the paper, that after using the india-rubber the words still appeared
legible, the _fighi_ remarking: "They are the words of God, delivered to
our prophet: I defy you to erase them."  The sultan and all around him
gazed at the paper with intense satisfaction, exclaiming that a miracle
had been wrought, and Denham was well pleased to take his departure.
Even Barca Gana afterwards, when Denham visited him in his tent,
exclaimed, "Wonderful! wonderful!"  And the _fighi_, or doctor, added,
"I will show you hundreds of miracles performed alone by the words of
the wonderful book."  He then urged the major to turn Mahommedan.
"Paradise will then be opened to you," he remarked.  "Without this, what
can save you from eternal fire.  I shall then see you, while sitting in
the third heaven, in the midst of the flames, crying out to your friend
Barca Gana and myself, `Give me a drop of water!' but the gulf will be
between us and then it will be too late."  Malem's tears flowed in
abundance during this harangue, and everybody appeared affected by his
eloquence.

Poor Boo-Khaloum all this time was ill, from vexation more than
sickness.  At last he had another interview with the sultan, but
returned much irritated, and told the major, as he passed, that they
should move in the evening, and to the question if everything went well,
he answered: "Please God."  The Arabs, from whom he kept his destination
a secret, received him with cheers.  Whom they were going against they
cared little, so long as there was a prospect of plunder, and the whole
camp became a busy scene of preparation.  Two hours after noon the march
was commenced towards the mountains, which rose up in rugged
magnificence on either side.

As the morning of the 28th of April broke, an interesting scene
presented itself.  The Sultan of Mandara, mounted on a beautiful,
cream-coloured horse, and followed by a number of persons handsomely
dressed, was on one side.  Barca Gana's people, who were on the other,
wore their red scarves or bournouses over their steel jackets.  The
major took up a position at the general's right-hand, when the troops,
entering a thick wood in two columns, were told that at the end of it
they should find the enemy.  Maraymy kept closer to the major's side, as
danger was approaching.

As they were riding along, several leopards ran swiftly from them,
twisting their long tails in the air.  A large one was seen, which
Maraymy remarked was so satiated with the blood of a negro it had just
before killed, that it would be easily destroyed.  The Shooa soon
planted a spear, which passed through the animal's neck.  It rolled
over, breaking the spear, and bounded off with the lower half in its
body.  Another Shooa attacking it, the animal, with a howl, was in the
act of springing on the pursuer, when an Arab shot it through the head.

On emerging from the wood, the large Felatah town of Durkulla was
perceived, and the Arabs were formed in front, headed by Boo-Khaloum.
They were flanked on each side by a large body of cavalry, who, as they
moved on, shouted the Arab war-cry.  Denham thought he could perceive a
smile pass between Barca Gana and his chief, at poor Boo-Khaloum's
expense.

Durkulla was quickly burned, and another small town near it.  The few
inhabitants found in them, being infants or aged persons, unable to
escape, were put to death or thrown into the flames.  A third town,
called Musfeia, built on a rising ground, and capable of being defended
against assailants ten times as numerous as the besiegers, was next
reached.  A strong fence of palisades, well pointed, and fastened
together with thongs of raw hide, six feet in height, had been carried
from one hill to the other.  Felatah bowmen were placed behind the
palisades and on the rising ground, with a _wady_ before them, while
their horses were all under cover of the hills.  This was a strong
position.  The Arabs, however, moved on with great gallantry, without
any support from the Bornou or Mandara troops, and, notwithstanding the
showers of arrows, some poisoned, which were poured on them from behind
the palisades, Boo-Khaloum carried them in about half an hour, and
dashed on, driving the Felatahs up the sides of the hills.  The women
were everywhere seen supplying their protectors with fresh arrows, till
they retreated, still shooting on their pursuers.  The women also rolled
down huge masses of rock, killing several Arabs.  Barca Gana, with his
spearmen, at length advanced to the support of Boo-Khaloum, and pierced
through and through some fifty unfortunates, who were left wounded near
the stakes.  The major rode by his side into the town, where a desperate
skirmish took place, but Barca Gana with his muscular arm threw eight
spears, some at a distance of thirty yards or more, which all told.  Had
either the Mandara or the sheikh's troops now moved up boldly, they must
have carried the town and the heights above it.  Instead of this, they
kept on the other side of the _wady_, out of reach of the arrows.  The
Felatahs, seeing their backwardness, made so desperate an attack that
the Arabs gave way.  The Felatah horse came on.  Had not Barca Gana and
Boo-Khaloum, with his few mounted Arabs, given them a very spirited
check, not one of their band would have lived to see the following day.
As it was, Barca Gana had three horses hit under him, two of which died
almost immediately, while poor Boo-Khaloum and his horse were both
wounded.  The major's horse was also wounded in the neck, shoulder, and
hind leg, and an arrow struck him in the face, merely drawing blood as
it passed.  He had two sticking in his bournous.  The Arabs suffered
terribly: most of them had two or three wounds; one dropped with five
arrows sticking in his head, and two of Boo-Khaloum's slaves were killed
near him.

No sooner did the Mandara and Bornou troops see the defeat of the Arabs
than they, one and all, took to flight in the most dastardly manner and
the greatest confusion.  The sultan led the way, having been prepared to
take advantage of whatever plunder the success of the Arabs might throw
into his hands; but no less determined to leave the field the moment the
fortune of the day appeared to be against them.

Major Denham had reason to regret his folly in exposing himself, badly
prepared as he was for accident.  By flight only could he save himself.
The whole army, which had now become a flying mass, plunged in the
greatest disorder into the wood which had lately been left.

He had got to the westward of Barca Gana in the confusion, when he saw
upwards of a hundred of the Bornou troops speared by the Felatahs, and
was following the steps of one of the Mandara officers, when the cries
behind, of the Felatah horse pursuing, made both quicken their pace.
His wounded horse at this juncture stumbled and fell.  Almost before he
was on his legs the Felatahs were upon him.  He had, however, kept hold
of the bridle, and, seizing a pistol from the holster, presented it at
two of the savages who were pressing him with their spears.  They
instantly went off; but another, who came on more boldly just as he was
endeavouring to mount, received the contents in his shoulder, and he was
enabled to place his foot in the stirrup.  Remounting, he again
retreated, but had not proceeded many hundred yards when his horse once
more came down, with such violence as to throw him against a tree at a
considerable distance.  At this juncture, alarmed by the horses behind
him, the animal got up and escaped, leaving the major on foot and
unarmed.

The Mandara officer and his followers were butchered and stripped within
a few yards of him.  Their cries were dreadful.  His hopes of life were
too faint to deserve the name.  He was almost instantly surrounded, and
speedily stripped, his pursuers making several thrusts at him with their
spears, wounding his hands severely, and his body slightly.  In the
first instance they had been prevented from murdering him by the fear of
injuring the value of his clothes, which appeared to them a rich booty.
His shirt was now torn off his back.  When his plunderers began to
quarrel for the spoil, the idea of escape came across his mind.
Creeping under the belly of the horse nearest him, he started as fast as
his legs would carry him, to the thickest part of the wood.  Two of the
Felatahs followed.  He ran in the direction the stragglers of his own
party had taken.  His pursuers gained on him, for the prickly underwood
tore his flesh and impeded his progress.  Just then he saw a mountain
stream gliding along at the bottom of a deep ravine.  His strength had
almost failed him, when, seizing the long branches of a tree overhanging
the water, he let himself down into it.  What was his horror to observe
a large liffa, the most venomous of serpents, rise from its coil as if
in the very act of striking!  His senses left him, the branch slipped
from his hand, and he tumbled headlong into the water.  The shock,
however, revived him, and with three strokes of his arms he reached the
opposite bank, which with great difficulty he crawled up.  He, at
length, felt that he was safe from his pursuers.  Still, the forlorn
situation in which he was placed, without even a rag to cover his body,
almost overwhelmed him.  Yet, fully alive to the danger to which he was
exposed, he had began to plan how he could best rest on the top of a
tamarind tree, in order to escape from panthers, when the idea of
liffas, almost as numerous, excited a shudder of despair.  While trying
to make his way through the woods, he observed two horsemen between the
trees, and, still further to the east, with feelings of gratitude, he
recognised Barca Gana and Boo-Khaloum, with about six Arabs.  Although
they were pressed closely by a party of Felatahs, the guns and pistols
of the Arabs kept the latter in check.  His shouts were drowned by the
cries of those who were falling under the Felatahs' spears and the
cheers of the Arabs rallying; but, happily, Maraymy distinguished him at
a distance.  Riding up, the faithful black assisted the major to mount
behind him, and, while the arrows whistled over their heads, they
galloped off to the rear as fast as the black's wounded horse could
carry them.  After they had gone a mile or two, Boo-Khaloum rode up and
desired one of the Arabs to cover the major with a houmous.  This was
the last act of Denham's unfortunate friend.  Directly afterwards
Maraymy exclaimed: "Look, Boo-Khaloum is dead!"  The major turned his
head, and saw the caravan leader drop from his horse into the arms of a
favourite Arab.  A poisoned arrow in his wounded foot had proved fatal.
The Arabs believed he had only swooned; but there was no water to revive
him, and before it could be obtained he was past the reach of
stimulants.  At the same time, Barca Gana offered the major a horse; but
Maraymy exclaimed: "Do not mount him; he will die!"  He therefore
remained with the black.  Two Arabs, however, mounted the animal, and in
less than an hour he fell to rise no more; and, before they could
recover themselves, both the Arabs were butchered by the Felatahs.

At last a stream was reached.  The horses, with the blood gushing from
their noses, rushed into the water, and the major, letting himself down,
knelt amongst them, and seemed to imbibe new life from the copious
draughts of the muddy beverage he swallowed.  He then lost all
consciousness; but Maraymy told him that he had staggered across the
stream and fallen down at the foot of a tree.  Here a quarter of an
hour's halt was made, to place Boo-Khaloum's body on a horse and to
collect stragglers, during which Maraymy had asked Barca Gana for
another horse, in order to carry the major on, when the chief, irritated
by his defeat, as well as by having had his horse refused, by which
means he said it had come by its death, replied: "Then leave him behind.
By the head of the Prophet! believers enough have breathed their last
to-day!  What is there extraordinary in a Christian's death?"  His old
antagonist, Malem Chadily, replied: "No; God has preserved him, let us
not forsake him."  Maraymy returned to the tree, awoke the major, and,
again mounting, they moved on as before, though with less speed.

The effect produced on the horses wounded by arrows was extraordinary;
immediately after drinking they dropped and instantly died, the blood
gushing from their mouths, noses, and ears.  More than thirty horses
were lost at this spot from the effects of the poison.

After riding forty-five miles, it was past midnight before they halted
in the territories of the Sultan of Mandara, the major thoroughly
worn-out.  The bournous thrown over him by the Arab teemed with vermin,
and it was evening the next day before he could get a shirt, when a man
gave him one, on the promise of getting a new one at Kouka.  Maraymy all
the time tended him with the greatest care while he slept for a whole
night and day under a tree.

Denham here met with an unexpected act of kindness from Mai Meegamy, a
dethroned sultan, now subject to the sheikh.  Taking him by the hand,
the sultan led him into his own leathern tent, and, disrobing himself of
his trousers, insisted that the major should put them on.  No act of
charity could exceed this.  Denham was exceedingly touched by it, but
declined the offer.  The ex-sultan, however, supposing that he did so
under the belief that he had offered the only pair he possessed, seemed
much hurt, and immediately called in a slave, whom he stripped of those
necessary appendages of a man's dress, which he put on himself,
insisting that Denham should take those he had first offered him.
Meegamy was his great friend from that moment, though he had scarcely
spoken to him before he had quitted the sheikh's dominions.

In this unfortunate expedition, besides their chief, forty-five of the
Arabs were killed, nearly all were wounded, and they lost everything
they possessed, Major Denham having also lost his mule and all his
property.

The wounds of many of the people were very severe, and several died soon
afterwards, their bodies, as well as poor Boo-Khaloum's, becoming
instantly swollen and black.  Sometimes, immediately after death, blood
issued from the nose and mouth, which the Bornou people asserted was in
consequence of the arrows having been poisoned.

The surviving Arabs, who had now lost all their arrogance, entreated
Barca Gana to supply them with corn to save them from starving, for the
Sultan of Mandara refused to supply them with food, and even kept
Boo-Khaloum's horse-trappings and clothes.

In six days the expedition arrived at Kouka.  The sheikh was excessively
annoyed at the defeat; but laid the blame, not without justice, on the
Mandara troops, who had evidently behaved treacherously to their allies.



CHAPTER SIX.

TRAVELS OF DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON, CONTINUED.

MAJOR DENHAM AND DR. OUDNEY VISIT OLD BIRNIE--ACCOMPANY THE SHEIKH ON AN
EXPEDITION AGAINST THE MUNGA--REVIEW OF TROOPS--SUBMISSION OF REBELS--
BARCA GANA DISGRACED--RETURN--ARRIVAL OF LIEUTENANT TOOLE--EXPEDITION TO
THE SHARY--PEST OF FLIES--WELL RECEIVED BY THE SULTAN OF BEGHARRNI--
DEATH OF LIEUTENANT TOOLE--RETURNS TO KOUKA--ARRIVAL OF MR. TYRHWIT--
EXPEDITION AGAINST REBELS ON SHORES OF LAKE CHAD--BARCA GANA AGAIN
DEFEATED AND WOUNDED--THE SHEIKH'S SEVERE LAWS AGAINST IMMORALITY.

Soon after the return of the unfortunate expedition to Mandara, the
sheikh set out on another against a people to the west, called the
Munga, who had never hitherto acknowledged his supremacy, and refused to
pay tribute.  Another complaint against them was, as he explained it,
"that they were _kaffiring_--not saying their prayers--the dogs."  This
fault is generally laid to the charge of any nation against whom true
Mahommedans wage war, as it gives them the power of making slaves of the
heathens.  By the laws of Mahomet, one believer must not bind another.

Major Denham and Dr Oudney were anxious to visit Birnie, the old
capital of Bornou, and the sheikh left one of his chief slaves, Omar
Gana, to act as their guide.  Thence they were to proceed to Kabshary,
there to await his arrival.

They set out with five camels and four servants, making two marches each
day, from ten to fourteen miles, morning and evening.

The country round Kouka is uninteresting and flat, thickly covered with
acacias.

The ruins of old Birnie, which they visited, convinced them of the power
of its former sultan.  The city, though now in ruins, covered a space of
five or six square miles.  The walls, in many places standing, consisted
of large masses of red brickwork, three or four feet in thickness, and
six to eight in height.  Besides destroying the capital, the Felatahs
had razed to the ground upwards of thirty large towns during their
inroads.

The whole country which they passed after proceeding some way had become
a complete desert, having been abandoned since the Felatahs commenced
their inroads, and wild animals of all descriptions abounded in great
numbers.

They heard that Kabshary had been attacked by the Munga people and
burned; and news came that the Munga horse were reconnoitring all round
them, and had murdered some men proceeding to join the sheikh.

One of the means the people had taken to defend themselves against the
invaders, had been to dig deep holes, at the bottom of which
sharp-pointed stakes were fixed, the pits being then carefully covered
over with branches and grass, so as completely to conceal them.  Similar
pitfalls are used in many parts of Africa for entrapping the giraffe and
other wild animals.

The major's servant, Columbus, and his mule not making their appearance,
he was searching for him, when he found that the animal had fallen into
one of these pits, the black having by a violent exertion of strength
saved himself.  The poor mule was found sticking on four stakes, with
her knees dreadfully torn by struggling.  She was, however, got out
alive.

Escaping from various dangers, they joined the sheikh on the banks of a
large piece of water called Dummasak.  Hearing that a caravan had
arrived at Kouka from Fezzan, they were anxious to return to the
capital.  They sent word to the sheikh, but their communication was not
delivered, and, before they could see him, he and his troops had moved
off.  They were, however, on their way to Kouka, when Omar Gana overtook
them, entreating them to return to the sheikh, who, angry at their
having gone, had struck him from his horse, and directed him to bring
them to the army without delay.  They had nothing to do but to obey.

Many of the spots they passed presented much picturesque beauty.  In
several places were groups of naked warriors resting under the trees on
the borders of the lake, with their shields on their arms, while
hundreds of others were in the water, spearing fish, which were cooked
by their companions on shore.  The margin was crowded with horses,
drinking or feeding, and men bathing, while, in the centre, hippopotami
were constantly throwing up their black muzzles, spouting water.

The march of the Bornou army now commenced; but little order was
preserved before coming near the enemy, everyone appearing to know that
at a certain point an assembly was to take place.  The sheikh took the
lead, and close after him came the Sultan of Bornou; who always attended
him on these occasions, though he never fought.  The sheikh was preceded
by five flags with extracts of the Koran on them, and attended by about
a hundred of his chiefs and favourite slaves.  A negro boy carried his
shield, a jacket of mail, and his steel skull-cap, and his arms;
another, mounted on a swift _mahary_, and fantastically dressed with a
straw hat and ostrich feathers, carried his timbrel, or drum, which it
is the greatest misfortune to lose in action.  In the rear followed the
harem; but on such occasions the sheikh takes but three wives, who are
mounted astride on trained horses, each led by a slave boy, their heads
and figures completely enveloped in brown silk bournouses, with an
attendant on either side.  The sultan has five times as many attendants
as his general, and his harem is three times as numerous.

On reaching Kabshary, the sheikh reviewed his favourite forces, the
Kanemboo spearmen, nine thousand strong.  With the exception of a goat
or sheep's skin, with the hair outwards, round their middles, and a few
strips of cloth on their heads, they were nearly naked.  Their arms were
spear and shield, with a dagger on the left arm, reversed.  The shield
is made of a peculiarly light wood, weighing only a few pounds.  Their
leaders were mounted and distinguished merely by a _tobe_ of dark blue,
and a turban of the same colour.

The sheikh's attendants were magnificently dressed, but his own costume
was neat and simple, consisting only of two white figured muslin
_tobes_, with a bournous, and a Cashmere shawl for a turban: over all
hung the English sword which had been sent him.  On the signal being
made for his troops to advance, they uttered a fearful shriek, or yell,
and advanced by troops of eight hundred to a thousand each.  After
striking their spears against their shields for some seconds, which had
an extremely grand effect, they filed off on either side, again forming
and awaiting their companions, who succeeded them in the same way.

There appeared to be a great deal of affection between these troops and
the sheikh.  He spurred his horse onwards into the midst of some of the
troops as they came up, and spoke to them, while the men crowded round
him, kissing his feet and stirrups.  It was a most pleasing sight, and
he seemed to feel how much his present elevation was owing to their
exertions; while they displayed a devotion and attachment denoting the
greatest confidence.  The major assured him that, with these troops, he
need fear but little the attempts of the Fezzaners on his territories.

The next day a number of captives--women and children--were brought in:
one poor woman accompanied by four children--two in her arms and two on
the horse of the father who had been stabbed for defending those he
loved.  They were uttering the most piteous cries.  The sheikh, after
looking at them, desired that they might all be released, saying: "God
forbid that I should make slaves of the wives and children of any
Mussalman!  Go back: tell the wicked and powerful chiefs who urged your
husbands to rebel and to _kafir_, that I shall be quickly with them, and
will punish them instead of the innocent!"

This message had its effect; for, during the following day, many
hundreds of the Munga people came in, bowing to the ground, and throwing
sand upon their heads in token of submission.  Several towns also sent
their chiefs and submitted in this manner, bringing peace offerings,
when the sheikh swore solemnly not to molest them further.  Their
principal leader, Malem Fanaamy, fearing to lose his head, would not
come; but offered to pay two thousand slaves, a thousand bullocks, and
three hundred horses as the price of peace.  The offer was refused; and,
compelled by his people, Malem Fanaamy made his appearance, poorly
dressed, with an uncovered head.  The sheikh received his submission;
and, when he really expected to hear the order for his throat to be cut,
he was clothed with eight handsome _tobes_, and his head made as big as
six, with turbans from Egypt.  This matter being settled, the army
returned to the capital.

Major Denham soon after this visited a caravan which had come from
Soudan, on its way to Fezzan.  The merchants had nearly a hundred
slaves, the greater part female, mostly very young--those from Nyffe of
a deep copper colour, and beautifully formed; the males were also young,
and linked together in couples by iron rings round their legs, yet they
laughed and seemed in good condition.  It is a common practice with the
merchants to induce one slave to persuade his companions that on
arriving at Tripoli they will be free and clothed in red--a colour of
which negroes are passionately fond.  By these promises they are induced
to submit quietly until they are too far from their homes to render
escape possible.

An extraordinary event occurred here, showing the despotic power of the
sheikh.  Barca Gana, his general, a governor of six large districts, had
offended the sheikh, who sent for him, had him stripped in his presence,
and a leathern girdle put round his loins, and, after reproaching him
with his ingratitude, ordered that he should be forthwith sold to the
Tibboo merchants, for he was still a slave.  The other chiefs, however,
falling on their knees, petitioned that their favourite general might be
forgiven.  The culprit at that moment appeared to take his leave.  The
sheikh, on this, threw himself back on his carpet, wept like a child,
and suffered Barca Gana to embrace his knees, and, calling them all his
sons, pardoned his penitent slave.

Poor Dr Oudney had never risen since his return from Munga, and
Clapperton and Hillman were also dangerously ill.

News now arrived that a caravan was on its way from the north.  This was
gratifying intelligence, as the expedition hoped to obtain letters and
remittances by it.

Hillman had manufactured some carriages for two brass guns, which had
been sent to the sheikh from Tripoli.  The sheikh was delighted when the
major, the only person capable of attending to them, fired them off.  He
now thought himself able to attack all who might become hostile to him.

On the 14th of December Mr Clapperton and Dr Oudney, having somewhat
recovered, set out with a large _kafila_, bound to Kano in Soudan.  Dr
Oudney, however, was in a very unfit state to travel, being almost in
the last stage of consumption.  A few days after they had gone, a
_kafila_ arrived from the north, and with it came a young ensign of the
80th Regiment, Mr Toole, who had taken the place of Mr Tyrwhit,
detained on account of sickness.  Major Denham was much pleased with his
appearance and manners--his countenance, indeed, being an irresistible
letter of introduction.  He had made the long journey from Tripoli to
Bornou in three months and fourteen days, arriving with only the loss of
five camels.  Denham's spirits revived with the society of so pleasant a
friend, and he determined to take the first opportunity of visiting the
Shary and Loggun.  The sheikh willingly gave them permission, appointing
a handsome negro, Belial, to act as their guide and manager.  He was
altogether a superior person, and was attended by six slaves.  These,
with themselves and personal attendants, formed their party.

Their journey was commenced on the 23rd of January, 1824.  After leaving
Angornou, they proceeded east, along the borders of the lake, to Angala,
where resided Miram, the divorced wife of the sheikh, El Kanemy, in a
fine house--her establishment exceeding sixty persons.  She was a very
handsome, beautifully-formed negress about thirty-five, and had much of
the softness of manner so extremely prepossessing in the sheikh.  She
received her visitors seated on an earthen throne covered with a Turkey
carpet, and surrounded by twenty of her favourite slaves, all dressed
alike in fine white shirts which reached to their feet; their necks,
ears, and noses thickly ornamented with coral.  A negro dwarf, measuring
scarcely three feet, the keeper of her keys, sat before her,
richly-dressed in Soudan _tobes_.

The Shary was reached on the 23rd.  The travellers were surprised at the
magnitude of the stream, which appeared to be fully half a mile in
width, running at the rate of two or three miles an hour towards the
Chad.

Remaining some days at the town of Showy on the banks of the river, they
embarked, accompanied by the _kaide_, or governor, and eight canoes
carrying ten slaves each.  After a voyage of nearly eight hours, they
reached a spot thirty-five miles from Showy.  The scenery was highly
interesting: one noble reach succeeded another, alternately varying
their courses; the banks thickly scattered with trees, rich in foliage,
hung over with creepers bearing variously-coloured and aromatic
blossoms.  Several crocodiles were seen, which rolled into the stream
and disappeared as they approached.

After proceeding further down the river, they returned to Showy, and
then made another excursion up the stream.

With much grief Denham perceived symptoms of illness in his companion,
who, however, complained but little.  While he was suffering they
reached a place which is so infested by flies and bees that the
inhabitants cannot move out of their houses during the day.

Their houses are literally formed one cell within another, five or six
in number, in order to prevent the ingress of the insects.  One of their
party, who went out, returned with his eyes and head in such a state
that he was ill for three days.

Hence they moved on to Zarmawha, an independent sultan, who had twice
been in rebellion against the sheikh.  Belial was received with scant
courtesy; but the sultan was very civil to the white men, to whom he
sent a variety of dishes of food, and was highly pleased with the
presents he received, observing that the English were a race of sultans.

Mr Toole's sufferings increased, though they managed to reach Loggun,
on the banks of the Shary.  As they approached, a person, apparently of
consequence, advanced towards them, bending nearly double and joining
his hands, followed by his slaves, stooping still lower than himself.
He explained that he was deputed by the sultan to welcome the white men,
and, preceding their party, conducted them to a habitation which had
been prepared for them, consisting of four separate huts, well-built
within an outer wall, with a large entrance-hall for their servants.

Next morning Denham was sent for to appear before the sultan, when he
was preceded through the streets by ten immense negroes of high birth,
with grey beards, bare heads, and carrying large clubs.  After passing
through several dark rooms, he was conducted to a large square court,
where some hundred persons were assembled, seated on the ground.  In the
middle was a vacant space to which he was led, and desired to sit down.
Two slaves in striped cotton _tabes_, who were fanning the air through a
lattice work of cane, pointed out the retirement of the sultan.  This
shade was removed, and something alive was discovered on a carpet,
wrapped up in silk _tobes_, with the head enveloped in shawls, and
nothing but the eyes visible.  The whole court prostrated themselves and
poured sand on their heads, while eight _frum-frums_ and as many horns
blew a loud and very harsh-sounding salute.

This great man, however, was not above doing a stroke of business, for,
after enquiring whether the major wished to buy female slaves, he
observed: "If you do, go no further; I have some hundreds, and will sell
them to you as cheap as anyone."

Though a much handsomer race than the Bornouese, the Loggun people are
thieves, and, judging from their chiefs, great rascals.  It appeared
that there were two sultans, father and son, both of whom applied to the
major for poison that would not lie, to be used against each other, the
younger one offering him three female slaves as a bribe.

The province of which Loggun is the capital, is called Begharmi.  The
people are in many respects similar to the Bornouese, with whom they are
constantly at war.  They possess a strong force of cavalry, clothed in
suits of thick quilted armour, with helmets of the same material, easily
penetrated however by bullets, though impervious to arrows.  Their
horses are also covered in the manner of their riders.  So unwieldy are
these warriors, that they require to be assisted when mounting their
steeds.  Their weapons are long, double-headed spears, something like
pitchforks with flattened prongs.

Shortly after this a large body of them, five thousand strong, with two
hundred chiefs were defeated by the Bornouese, when all the chiefs and a
considerable number of the men were slain.

The Loggunese, however, have made considerable progress in the arts of
peace.  The clothes woven by them are superior to those of Bornou, being
beautifully glazed, and finely dyed with indigo; and they make use even
of a current coin of iron, somewhat in the form of a horse-shoe, which
none of the neighbouring nations possess.  Their country abounds in
grain and cattle, and is diversified with forests of acacias and other
beautiful trees.

As they proceeded on their journey, poor Mr Toole grew worse.

Escaping several dangers, they returned to Angala, where at first the
major hoped his poor friend might recover, but on the 26th of February a
cold shiver seized him, and just before noon he expired, completely
worn-out and exhausted.  He had scarcely completed his 22nd year, and
was in every sense an amiable and promising young officer.

On Denham's return to Kouka, he found the sheikh with a large army
collected to attack the Begharmis, who were scouring the country.  As,
however, he was suffering from fever, he went on to Kouka, where he
heard of the death of Dr Oudney at a place called Murmur.  The sheikh's
expedition was successful, and the people were highly delighted with the
plunder which had been obtained.

Sickness, however, was at work in the city.  Omar, an Arab, who had
arrived with Mr Toole, died, and Columbus caught the fever, and had to
take to his bed.  The major, however, was cheered by the arrival of Mr
Tyrhwit, who had been sent out by the British Government to strengthen
the party.  He brought a present of two swords, two brace of pistols, a
dagger, and two gold watches, which were received by El Kanemy with
great delight.  On hearing that some rockets had also been forwarded, he
exclaimed: "What besides all these riches!  There are no friends like
these; they are all true; and I see by the book that, if the prophet had
lived only a short time longer, they would have become Moslem."

On the termination of the Rhamadan, June 1st, the sheikh again took the
field, proceeding eastward along the shores of the Chad, against a
powerful Biddomah chief, called Amanook, who held a strong position on
some islands near the shores of the lake.  The object of the expedition
had been kept a great secret till the neighbourhood of the country to be
attacked was reached.  The army marched through the country of the
Shooas, a people who live entirely in tents of leather and huts of
rushes, changing but from necessity, on the approach of an enemy or want
of pasturage for their numerous flocks.  They seldom fight, except in
their own defence.  Their principal food is the milk of camels, in which
they are rich, and also that of cows and sheep; often they take no other
nourishment for months together.  They have the greatest contempt for
and hatred of the negro nations, and yet are always tributary either to
one black sultan or another.  There is no example of their ever having
peopled a town or established themselves in a permanent home.

The sheikh having halted the main body of his army, Barca Gana advanced
with a thousand men, being joined also by four hundred Dugganahs.  They
found the chief, Amanook, posted, with all his cattle and people, on a
narrow pass between two lakes, having in front of him a lake which was
neither deep nor wide, but full of holes, with a deceitful, muddy
bottom.

The sheikh's troops had long been without food, and the sight of the
bleating flocks and lowing herds was too much for them.  Barca Gana,
however, seeing the strength of the enemy's position, wished to halt,
and to send over spearmen on foot, with shields, who would lead the
attack.  The younger chiefs however exclaimed: "What! be so near them as
this, and not eat them?  No, let us on: this night their flocks and
women will be ours!"  In this cry the Shooas also joined.  The general
yielded, and the attack commenced.  The Arabs led the way with the
Dugganahs.  On arriving in the middle of the lake the horses sunk up to
their saddle-bows; most of them were out of their depth, and others
floundering in the mud; the ammunition of the riders became wet, their
guns useless.  As they neared the shore, Amanook's men hurled at them
with unerring aim a volley of their light spears, charging with their
strongest and best horses, trained and accustomed to the water, while at
the same time another body, having crossed the lake higher up, came by
the narrow pass and cut off the retreat of all those who had advanced
into the lake.  The sheikh's people now fell thickly.  Barca Gana,
although attacking against his own judgment, was among the foremost, and
received a severe spear-wound in his back, which pierced through four
_tobes_ and his iron chain armour, while attacked by five chiefs, who
seemed determined on finishing him.  One of these he thrust through with
his long spear, and his own people coming to his rescue with a fresh
horse, he was saved, though thirty of his followers were either killed
or captured by Amanook's people.

It was expected that Amanook would attack the camp, but, instead of so
doing, he sent word that he would treat with the sheikh, and that he
wished for peace.  If peace was not to be obtained, however, he swore by
the Prophet that he would turn fish, and fly to the centre of the water;
and, should even the sheikh himself come, he would bring the _wady_
against him.

The major and his companions visited the general, whom they found
suffering much from his wound, but Denham acting as surgeon, it in a
short time healed.  Barca Gana then strongly advised him to return to
Kouka, showing that his hopes of getting to the east would certainly be
disappointed.

A little sheikh, who had arrived from Fezzan, endeavoured to poison the
mind of El Kanemy against the English, telling him that they had
conquered India and probably fully intended to attack Bornou.

On the major's return to Kouka he found that Captain Clapperton had just
returned from Soudan.  On going to the hut where he was lodged, Denham
did not know his friend as he lay extended on the floor, so great was
the alteration in him; and he was about to leave the place, when
Clapperton called out his name.  Notwithstanding this, so great were
Clapperton's spirits, that he spoke of returning to Soudan after the
rains.  He had performed a very interesting journey, the particulars of
which will shortly be narrated.

The sheikh had just before made himself very unpopular with the female
portion of his subjects, having, in consequence of his determination to
improve the morality of his people, issued an order such as the most
savage of despots have never ventured to enact.  One morning the gates
of the city were kept closed at daylight, and sixty women who had a bad
reputation were brought before him.  Five were sentenced to be hanged in
the public market, and four flogged.  Two of the latter expired under
the lash, while the former were dragged, with their heads shaved,
through the market, with ropes round their necks, and were then
strangled and thrown by twos into a hole previously prepared.

The effect on the people was such that a hundred families quitted Kouka
to take up their abode in other towns, where this rigour did not exist.



CHAPTER SEVEN.

CLAPPERTON'S JOURNEY TO SOUDAN.

EXPEDITION OF CLAPPERTON AND OUDNEY TO SOUDAN--BEAUTY OF THE WOMEN--
CRUELTY OF THE ARABS--DR. OUDNEY PRESCRIBES FOR THE SICK--REACH
KATAGUM--SLAVES OFFERED AS PRESENTS--DEATH OF DR. OUDNEY--CLAPPERTON
ARRIVES AT KANO--CITY DESCRIBED--HAUSSA BOXERS--SACKATOO REACHED--
RECEPTION BY SULTAN BELLO--GREAT INTELLIGENCE OF THE SULTAN--WONDER AT
ENGLISH CUSTOMS--DESIRES THAT A CONSUL AND DOCTOR MAY BE SENT TO HIM--
CLAPPERTON LEAVES SACKATOO--SUFFERINGS FROM THIRST--DANGEROUS JOURNEY--
RETURNS TO KOUKA--VISIT TO LAKE CHAD--JOURNEY ACROSS THE DESERT TO
TRIPOLI.

It will be remembered that Captain Clapperton, accompanied by Dr
Oudney, set out from Kouka on the 14th of December, 1823, for the
purpose of exploring Soudan.  Their party consisted of Jacob, a Jew, two
servants, and three men of Fezzan.  They had three saddle-horses and
four sumpter mules.  They travelled in company with a _kafila_ in which
were twenty-seven Arab merchants and about fifty natives of Bornou.
Most of the Arabs rode on horseback, some having, besides, a led horse,
but all the rest of the party were on foot.

Doctor Oudney was of great service to the _hadji_, who had injured his
hand by the bursting of a gun.  He invariably pitched his tent close to
that of the doctor, who regularly dressed it for him.

Passing old Birnie, they had after two days to pass through an
undulating country, frequently wading across hollows filled with water.
Having to cross a river, the _hadji_ had provided himself with a large
raft, on which his own and his friends' baggage was carried across; but
the Arabs, who passed lower down the river, were dreadfully frightened.
The greatest difficulty was with the camels and female slaves, the women
screaming and squalling loudly.  The camels were towed across, one man
swimming before with a halter in his teeth, while another kept beating
the animal behind with a stick, while it every now and then attempted to
turn back, or bobbed its head under water.

The next day they were exposed to another danger.  The grass having been
set on fire, the flames advanced rapidly, and must have put them all to
flight, had they not sought shelter within the ruined walls of old
Birnie.

They passed through numerous towns and villages, the people belonging to
a tribe of Shooa Arabs.  The women were really beautiful.  They wore
their hair in a form which at a distance might be mistaken for a helmet,
a large braid at the crown having some resemblance to a crest.

They had now to pass through a country inhabited by Bedites, who had not
embraced Islamism.  Protected by the natural fastnesses of their
country, they were held in dread and abhorrence by all the faithful.
The road lay over very elevated ground, and so low was the temperature
in the morning, that the water in their shallow vessels was crusted with
thin flakes of ice, and the water-skins themselves were frozen as hard
as a board.  The horses and camels stood shivering with cold.  Dr
Oudney also became extremely ill, probably from the low temperature.

They had just entered the country of the Bedites when two men were met,
who were immediately seized by the Arabs; one was a Shooa and the other
a negro.  One of the Bornouese had inflicted a dreadful cut under the
left ear of the negro, and, notwithstanding his wound, they led the poor
fellow by a rope fastened round his neck.  Clapperton could not refrain
from beating the merciless Bornouese and at the same time threatening to
lodge the contents of his gun in his head if he repeated his cruelties.
He took occasion to impress on the minds of the Arabs how unworthy it
was of brave men to behave so cruelly to their prisoners, and he
thoroughly shamed them into good behaviour.

Having crossed the river You, they reached the city of Katagum, when a
servant of the governor met them with a present, and, accompanied by a
band of horsemen with drummers drumming and two bards singing the
praises of their master, they entered the city.  Here they remained,
while the caravan pursued its course.

This was the most eastern of the Felatah towns.  They were here visited
by a Tripolitan merchant who was very rich, possessing no less than five
hundred slaves and a vast number of horses.

Through all the towns and villages which they had passed, the sick were
brought to be cured, while numbers came for remedies against all sorts
of fancied diseases.

The governor received them in the most simple way.  They found him
seated under a rude canopy, on a low bank of earth, with three old men
attending on him.  They shook hands and then sat down on the floor.  He
was highly pleased with the presents he received, and offered anything
they might wish for, especially slaves.  Clapperton told them that a
slave was unknown in England, and that the moment one set foot on
British ground he was instantly free.  When he heard that their only
object was to see the world, he told them that they must go to the
Sultan Bello, who was a learned man and would, be glad to meet people
who had seen so much.

A lucky omen, as the natives supposed it, occurred.  Among the presents
offered by the king was ajar of honey; this one of the servants upset
without breaking the pot.  Had it been broken, the omen would have been
unfortunate; as it was, the governor was highly pleased, and ordered the
poor to be called in to lick up the honey.  They rushed in, squabbling
among themselves.  One old man, having a long beard, came off with a
double allowance, for he let it sweep up the honey and then sucked it
clean.

Dr Oudney soon after this became too weak to sit his horse, but still
he begged to be carried on.  They therefore travelled forward to the
town of Murmur.  Here they were compelled to stop, though the doctor the
next morning, after drinking a cup of coffee, with the assistance of his
companions dressed.  It was soon evident that he would be unable to
proceed.  He was carried back into his tent, where in a short time
Captain Clapperton, with unspeakable grief, witnessed his death without
a struggle or a groan.  He was but thirty-two years of age.  His friend
had a deep grave dug, and enclosed it with a wall of clay to keep off
the beasts of prey.  He had also two sheep killed and distributed among
the poor.

Ill as Captain Clapperton himself was, and now left alone among strange
people, the loss to him was severe and afflicting.  Still, his ardent
spirit triumphing over sorrow and trouble, he pursued his journey, and
on the 20th of January he entered Kano, the great emporium of the
kingdom of Haussa.  He dressed himself in his naval uniform to make an
impression on the inhabitants of the city, which, from the description
of the Arabs, he expected to see of surprising grandeur.  His
disappointment was therefore great, when he traversed the place.  He
found the houses nearly a quarter of a mile from the walls, and in many
parts scattered into detached groups between large stagnant pools of
water.  Not an individual turned his head round to gaze at him, all
being intent on their own business.  The market-place was bordered to
the east and west by an extensive swamp, covered with weeds and water
and frequented by wild ducks, cranes, and vultures.  The house which had
been provided for him was close to a morass, the pestilential
exhalations of which were increased by the sewers of the houses all
opening into the street.

Fatigued and sick, he lay down on a mat which the owner had spread for
him.  His mansion had six chambers above, extremely dark, and five rooms
below, with a dismal-looking entrance, a back court, draw-well, and
other conveniences.  Little holes, or windows, admitted a glimmering
light into the apartments.  Nevertheless, this was thought a handsome
mansion.

All the Arab merchants, not prevented by sickness, who had travelled
with him from Kouka, came to see him, looking more like ghosts than men,
as almost all strangers at the time were suffering from intermittent
fever.

The governor gave him a private audience, and seemed highly pleased with
the presents he received, promising to forward them on to his master,
the Sultan Bello, at Sackatoo, after his own return from an expedition
which would occupy him fifteen days.

During the interval Captain Clapperton suffered greatly from fever.

The newspapers which he here received from Major Denham apprised him of
Belzoni's attempt to penetrate to Timbuctoo by the way of Fez.

On returning from a ride he met two large bodies of troops, who were to
accompany the governor, each consisting of five hundred horse and foot.
The latter were armed with bows and arrows, the cavalry with shields,
swords, and spears, and sumptuously accoutred.  The swords were broad,
straight, and long, and were indeed the very blades formerly wielded by
the knights of Malta, having been sent from that island to Tripoli,
where they were exchanged for bullocks and carried across the desert to
Bornou, thence to Haussa, and, at last, re-mounted at Kano for the use
of the inhabitants of almost all central Africa.  The shields were
covered with hides of animals, and were generally round; but there were
some of an oval shape, in the centre of which was scored a perfect
Maltese cross.  He observed crosses of other forms cut in the doors of
the houses.

Several camels, loaded with quilted cotton armour, both for men and
horses, were in attendance.  This armour was arrow proof; but it is
seldom worn, except in actual combat.  The saddles had high peaks before
and behind, and the stirrup-irons were in the shape of a fire-shovel.

A nephew of the Sultan Bello paid him a visit the next morning and told
him, after taking a cup of tea, which he liked very much, that he had
hitherto looked upon a Christian as little better than a monster, though
he now confessed that he liked the traveller.  Another nephew came also,
a most intelligent young man, who read and spoke Arabic with fluency,
and was very anxious to see everything, and to hear all about England.

He found the market well supplied with every necessary and luxury in
request among the people of the interior.  The sheikh, who superintended
it, however, fixed the prices of all wares, for which he was entitled to
a commission; and, after every bargain, the seller returned to the buyer
a stated part of the price by way of a blessing, or a "luck-penny" as it
would be called in England.  Cowries were here used as coins, though
somewhat cumbersome, as twenty were worth only a halfpenny; thus, in
paying a pound sterling, nine thousand six hundred shells had to be
counted out.  As he remarks: "The great advantage of the use of the
cowrie is that forgery is excluded, as it cannot possibly be imitated."
The natives show also great dexterity in counting out even the largest
sums.

The butchers were numerous, and understood showing off animals to the
best advantage.  Sometimes they even stuck a little sheep's wool on a
leg of goat's flesh, to make it pass for mutton.  When a fat bull was
brought to the market to be killed, its horns were dyed red with
_henna_, the drummers attended, a mob soon collected, the news of the
animal's size and fatness spread, and all ran to buy.  Near at hand were
small wood fires stuck round with wooden skewers, on which small bits of
fat and lean meat, the size of a penny-piece, were roasting,
superintended by a woman with a mat dish placed on her knees, from which
she served her guests, who were squatted round her.  Indeed, the market
was as busy a one as can be seen in any country.  Jugglers also, like
those of India, were practising their tricks with snakes, having
extracted the venomous fangs.

Haussa is celebrated for its boxers, the most expert of whom are found
among the butchers.  Clapperton having intimated his willingness to pay
for a performance, a number of combatants arrived, attended by two
drummers and the whole body of butchers.  A ring was soon formed, by the
master of the ceremonies throwing dust on the spectators to make them
stand back.  The drummers entered the ring, followed by one of the
boxers, who was quite naked with the exception of a skin round his
middle.  Placing himself in an attitude as if to oppose an antagonist,
he wrought his muscles into action, and then went round the ring showing
his arms to the bystanders and exclaiming: "I am a hyaena!  I am a Hon!
I am able to kill all that oppose me!"  To which the spectators replied,
"The blessing of God be upon thee!--Thou art a hyaena: thou art a lion."

A number of fighters then came forward, when they were next ranged in
pairs.  If they happened to be friends, they laid their left breast
together twice, and exclaimed: "We are lions! we are friends!"  Then one
left the ring, and another was brought forward.  If the two did not
recognise one another as friends, the combat immediately commenced.
They parried with the left hand open, and struck as opportunity offered
with the right, generally aiming at the pit of the stomach and under the
ribs.  Occasionally they closed with one another, when one seized the
other's head under his arm and beat it with his fist, at the same time
striking with the knee between his antagonist's thighs.  Indeed, much
the same brutality was exhibited as in English prize-fights.
Clapperton, hearing that they sometimes gouged out each other's eyes,
and that such combats seldom terminated without one or more being
killed, having satisfied his curiosity, ordered the battle to cease, and
gave the promised reward.

The custom in this place is to bury the people in their own houses,
which are occupied as usual by the poorer classes; but when a great man
is buried, the house is for ever after abandoned.  A corpse being
prepared for interment, the first chapter of the Koran is read over it.
The funeral takes place the same day.  The bodies of slaves are dragged
out of the town and left a prey to vultures and wild beasts in most
places; but in Kano they are thrown into the morass or nearest pool of
water.

On the 22nd of February, Clapperton commenced his journey towards
Sackatoo, in company with an Arab merchant, Mahomet Jolly, having left
his Jew servant, Jacob, to return in case of his death, with his effects
to Bornou.

At the towns where he stopped he was generally taken for a _fighi_, or
teacher, and was pestered to write out charms.  One day his washerwoman
insisted on being paid with a charm in writing, that would induce people
to buy earthenware of her.

After travelling for some days he was met by an escort of one hundred
and fifty horsemen with drums and trumpets, sent by Sultan Bello to
conduct him to his capital, which he reached on the 16th of March.  He,
as usual, dressed himself in his naval uniform; and, as he approached
the gates, he was met by a messenger from the sultan, to bid him welcome
and to acquaint him that his master, who was out on an expedition, would
return to Sackatoo in the evening.

Large crowds were out to look at him, and he entered the city amid the
hearty welcomes of young and old.  He was conducted to the house of the
_gadado_, or vizier, where apartments were provided for him and his
servants.  The _gadado_ himself arrived in the evening, and was
excessively polite, but would not drink tea with him, as he said that he
was a stranger in their land, and h

Showing first 200,000 characters. Full text: gutenberg.org/ebooks/21391