Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2

by James Richardson · English · Gutenberg #18544 · 512,545 chars · public domain (US)

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Title: Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2

Author: James Richardson

Release date: June 9, 2006 [eBook #18544]

Language: English

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NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA
PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51,

UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.

BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON,
AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA."

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:
CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY.

MDCCCLIII.

LONDON:
Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Description of Tintalous and its Environs--Palace and
Huts--Bedsteads--Kailouee Race--Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
Gagliuffi--Proposed Journey to Aghadez--Dr. Barth starts--An obstinate
Bullock--Present extraordinary--State of Zinder--Affability of the
Sultan--Power of Charms--Scorpions--Dialogue with a Ghatee--Splendid
Meteors--Visit from En-Noor--Intrigues of the Fellatahs--A Sultan loaded
with Presents--Talk of departing for Zinder--State of the Bornou
Road--Division of a Bullock--Bottle of Rum stolen--More Visits from the
Sultan--A Musical Entertainment--Curious Etymological Discussions--A
wonderful Prophetess--Secret Societies--Magicians--The Evil
Eye--Morality of Soudan--Magnificent Meteor--Stories of the Sfaxee.

CHAPTER II.

Muslim want of Curiosity--Gossip on Meteors--A Family Broil--Rationale
of Wife-beating--Abominable Dances--Evil Communications--Dr.
Overweg--Kailouee Vocabulary--Windy Day--Account of Wadai--Madame
En-Noor--Profits of Commerce--The letter _Ghain_--Fellatah
Language--Introduction of Islamism--Desert Routes--Trade in Agate
Stones--A lively Patient--The Eed--A Visit _en masse_--Arrival of the
Boat--Butchers--Exchange of Visits with the Sultan--Diet--A Shereef--A
delicate Request--Information on Maradee--Tesaoua--Itinerant
Schoolmasters--En-Noor's Territory in Damerghou--Unpleasant
Communication--Amulets--The Foundation of a City in the
Desert--En-Noor's Political Pretensions.

CHAPTER III.

News from Barth--Camels restored--Expensive Journey--Proposed Migration
of Males--Supply of Slaves, whence--A new Well--Pagans and
Christians--Tibboo Manners--The great Gong--When is a Tibboo
hungry?--Hunger-belt--Queen of England in the Sahara--The Shanbah--A
hasty Marriage--Said's new Wife--Wild Cauliflowers--Tolerance of the
Kailouees--Men go to fetch Salt from Bilma--Approach of Dr.
Barth--Lion's Mouth--Tibboos and Kailouees--Mysteries of
Tintalous--Fewness of Men in Aheer--Trees preserved in the
Valley--Bright Stars--Method of Salutation--Purposed Stars--Kailouee
Character--Champagne at Tintalous--The Wells.

CHAPTER IV.

Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez--Description of the
Route--Tiggedah--Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah--Plain of Tarist--Beautiful
Valley--Buddeh--Small Caravan--Aghadez--its Inhabitants--their
Occupation--The great Koku, or Sultan--Asbenouee Revolutions--Election
of a Prince--Interview--Ceremony of Investiture--Razzia--Intricate
Political System--Account of Aghadez--Mosque--Environs--Women--Tribes
of Asben--The Targhee Family--Population of the Ghat
Districts--of Aheer--The Oulimad and Tanelkums--Tribe of
Janet--Haghar--Sagamaram--Maghatah--Extent of Aheer--Connexion
with the Black Countries--Mechanism of Society in
Aheer--Chieftains--Tax-gathering--Food of the
Kailouees--Maharees--Amusements--Natural Features of
Asben--Vegetation--Cultivation--Manufactures--Bags for Charms.

CHAPTER V.

Projected Departure for Damerghou--False Start--Picturesque
Caravan--Sultan's Views of White Skins--My Birthday--The Sultan fights
his Battles over again--His Opinion of Women--Bragging--The Razzia on
the Fadeea--Political News in the Desert--Cold Weather--Continue our
Journey--Bornouese Fighis--Tin-Tagannu--Trap for a Lion--Mousa's
Camels--A further Delay--Jackals and the Fire--Language of
Signs--Tintalousian Coquettes--Departure of the Zinder Caravan--Natural
Features--Languages--The Kilgris--Killing Lice--The Razzia to the
North--Present of a Draught-board--Pagan Nations--Favourable Reports.

CHAPTER VI.

Medicine for Bad Eyes--A summary Proceeding--News from the
Salt-Caravan--Towns and Villages of Tesaoua--Earthquakes--Presents for
the Sultan of Maradee--Yusuf's Insolence--English Money in Aheer--A
Razzia on the Holy City--Bornouese Studies--Gipsies of Soudan--En-Noor
and the Marabouts--Ghaseb--State of the Weather--Calculations for the
Future--Senna--Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer--En-Noor in his
Family--Gouber and Maradee--Beer-drinking--Study of the Sau--Shara--The
Oulimad--Lions--Translating Jokes--Digging a Well--Projects.

CHAPTER VII.

Razzia on the Fadeea--Haussa--Names of Places--Ant-track--Circular
Letter from Mourzuk--Vast Rock--Mustapha Bey's Letter--Effects of
Water--Butterflies--Aspect of the Country--A Slave advanced
to Honour--Shonshona--Herbage--Birds--Appearance of the
Salt-Caravan--Colours of Dawn--Bilma Salt--Mode of Barter--Pass the Rock
of Mari--Granite--Indigo Plant--Presents at Stamboul--The Sultan begs
again--Old Men's Importunities--Baghzem--Curiosities of the
Route--People of Damerghou--Temporary Village of Women--Country begins
to open--Barter Transaction with Lady En-Noor.

CHAPTER VIII.

We continue our Journey--Huntsmen--Gum on the Tholukhs--The
Salt-Caravan--A Bunch of Gum--Games among the
Slaves--Baghzem--Trees--Palm of Pharaoh--Deserted Villages--Birds'
Nests--Wife of En-Noor--Unan--Lizards--Bad News--Christmas
day in Africa--Christmas-boxes--Begging Tuaricks
again--Bargot--Musicians--Speculations--Tribes at War--Parasitical
Plant--Importance of Salt--Animals--Agalgo--Force of the Caravan--Beat
of Drum--Approach the Hamadah--Giraffes--Poisoned Arrows--Ear of
Ghaseb--Soudan and Bornou Roads.

CHAPTER IX.

Enter the Hamadah--Home of the Giraffe--Water of
Chidugulah--Turtles--Cool Wind--Jerboahs--Centre of the
Sahara--New-year's Eve--Cold Weather--Birds of Prey--Soudan
Date--Burs--Animals on the Plateau--Young Ostrich--The
Tholukh-tree--Severe Cold--Eleven Ostriches--Termination of the
Desert--Inasamet--The Tagama--Purchases--People begin to
improve--Fruit of the Lote-tree--Village roofed with Skins--Vast
Plain--Horses--Approach Damerghou--Village of Gumrek--Rough
Customers--Wars of the Kilgris and Kailouees--A small
Lake--Guinea-hens--Vultures--Party of Huntsmen.

CHAPTER X.

My Barracan--Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou--Ghaseb
Stubble--Cactus--Water-Melons--Party of Tuaricks--Boban Birni--Huts of
Damerghou--Tagelel--Women of the Village--Population of the
Country--Complaisant Ladies--Festivities--Aquatic Birds--Dancing--A
Flatterer--A Slave Family--A new Reason for Wife-beating--Hazna
Dancers--Damerghou, common ground--Purchase of Ghaseb--Dethroned
Sultan--Yusuf--Mohammed Tunisee--Ophthalmia--Part with Barth and
Overweg--Presents to Servants--Sheikh of Fumta--Yakobah
Slave--Applications for Medicine--Boban Birni--Forest--At length enter
Bornou ground--Daazzenai--Tuarick Respectabilities--Detachment of the
Salt-Caravan.

CHAPTER XI.

March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from
the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the
Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the
Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of
the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of
En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central
Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation
with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of
Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.

CHAPTER XII.

Presents from Officials--Mode of treating Camels--Prices--Cowrie
Money--Shereef Interpreter--Visits--Harem--Houses--Grand
Vizier--Picturesque Dances--Tuaricks at Zinder--Kohlans and
Fullans--Province of Zinder--Account of its Rebellions--Trees--Details
on the Slave-trade--Prices--Mode of obtaining Slaves--Abject
Respect of the Sultan--Visits--Interview with the Sarkee--The
Presence--Curious Mode of administering Justice--Barbarous
Punishments--Hyaenas--Gurasu--Fighis--Place of Execution--Tree of
Death--Hyaena Dens--Dancing.

CHAPTER XIII.

Brother of the Sultan--Trade of Zinder--Prices--The Sarkee drinks
Rum--Five Cities--Houses of Zinder--Female Toilette--Another Tree of
Death--Paganism--Severity of the Sultan--Lemons--Barth and
Overweg--Fire--Brother of the Sarkee--Daura--Shonshona--Lousou--Slaves
in Irons--Reported Razzia--Talk with the Shereef--Humble
Manners--Applications for Medicines--Towns and Villages of Zinder--The
great Drum--Dyers--Tuarick Visits--Rationale of Razzias--Slaves--"Like
Prince like People"--French in Algiers--The Market--Old Slave--Infamous
System--Plan of the great Razzia.

CHAPTER XIV.

Family of the Sarkee--Converted Jew--Hard Dealings--How to get rid of a
Wife--Route to Tesaoua--Influence of Slavery--Prices of Aloes and
Silk--Medicine for a Merchant--Departure of the Sarkee for the
Razzia--Encampment--Mode of Fighting--Produce of Razzias--Story of the
Tibboo--Sheikh Lousou--Gumel--Superstitions--Matting--Visit
of Ladies--The Jew--Incendiaries--Hazna--Legend of Zinder
Well--Kohul--Cousin of the Sheikh--Female Sheikh--State of the
Country--Salutations.

CHAPTER XV.

Political News--Animals of Zinder--Sleepy City--District
of Korgum--Razzias--Family of Sheikh Omer of
Bornou--Brothers--Sons--Sisters--Daughters--Viziers--Kashallas--Power of
the Sheikh--A Cheating Prince--Old Slave--Fetishism--Devil in a
Tuarick's head--Kibabs--Fires--A Prophecy--Another Version of the
Razzia--Correspondence between Korgum and Zinder.

CHAPTER XVI.

Sheikh of Bornou--Arab Women--News from the Razzia--Procession of
newly-caught Slaves--Entrance of the Sarkee--Chained Slaves--My Servant
at the Razzia--Audacity of Bornou Slaves--Korgum--Konchai--Product of
the Razzia--Ghadamsee Merchants--Slave-trade--Incident at Korgum--State
of Kanou--A Hue and Cry--Black Character--Vegetables at
Zinder--Minstrel--Medi--Gardens--Ladies--Fanaticism--Americans at
Niffee--Rich People--Tuaricks Sick--Morals--Dread of the
Sarkee--Fashions.

CHAPTER XVII.

News from Tesaoua--Razzia on Sakkatou--Laziness in Zinder--The
Hajah--Herds of Cattle--More Tuarick Patients--Gardens--My
Luggage--Adieu to the Sarkee--Present from his Highness--Start from
Zinder--Country--Birds--Overtake the Kashalla--Slaves for
Kanou--Continue the Journey--People of Deddegi--Their Timidity--Horse
Exercise--Cotton--Strange Birds--Occupation of Men and Women--State of
African Society--Islamism and Paganism--Character of the Kashalla--A
Dogberry--Guddemuni--Cultivation--Beggars--Dancing Maidens.

CHAPTER XVIII.

A Village plundered--Shaidega--Animals--Our Biscuit--Villages _en
route_--Minyo--Respect for Learning--Monotony of the Country--A
Wedding--Palsy--Slave-agents--Kal, Kal--Birni Gamatak--Tuaricks on the
Plain--Palms--Sight the Town of Gurai--Bare Country--Bearings of various
Places--Province of Minyo--Visit the Sultan--Audience-room--Fine
Costume--A Scene of Barbaric Splendour--Trade--Estimate of Wealth--How
to amuse a Prince--Small Present--The Oars carried by Men--Town of
Gurai--Fortifications.

CHAPTER XIX.

Fezzanee Traders--Sultan in want of Medicine--The Stud--Letters--Yusuf's
Conduct--Architecture--Fragment of the History of Minyo--Politics
of Zinder--Bornouese Fish--Visits--Two Routes--Dancing by
Moonlight--Richness--Fires--Information on Boushi and Adamaua--The
Yamyam--Liver Complaints--A Girl's Game--Desert Country--Gift Camel--Few
Living Creatures--Village of Gusumana--Environs--The Doom
Fruit--Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou--Stupid Kadi--Showing off--Hot
Weather--[Final Note--Death of Mr. Richardson.]

APPENDIX.

NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA

CHAPTER I.

I begin at length to consider myself as it were at home in this singular
country of Aheer--without, however, experiencing any desire to dally
here longer than the force of circumstances absolutely requires. It must
be confessed, as I have already hinted, that the town of Tintalous,[1]
in front of which we are encamped, does not at all answer the idea which
our too active imagination had formed. Yet it is a singular place. It is
situated on rocky ground, at the bend of a broad valley, which in the
rainy season becomes often-times the bed of a temporary river. Here and
there around it are scattered numerous trees, many of considerable size,
giving the surface of the valley something of a park-like appearance.
The herbage is not rich, but it is ornamental, and refreshes the eye in
contrast with the black, naked rocks, which rise on all hands to the
height often of two or three thousand feet. To the east, it is true, the
country is a little open; and between the mountains run in numerous
white sandy wadys, sprinkled with fresh green plants, or shaded by
various species of mimosa and other spreading trees, under which the
shepherds and herdsmen find shelter from the sun.

[1] Tintalous is 40 short and 30 long days from Ghat, N.N.E.;
60 short and 50 long from Mourzuk, N.E.; 20 short, 15 long,
from Zinder or Damerghou, S.S.W.; 7 long, 10 or 12 short,
from Bilma, E.; 38 to 45 days from Tuat, N.W. (_via_
Taghajeet). Maharees, of course, trot and gallop in half
the time. These are native statements.

The principal feature of Tintalous itself is what may be called the
palace of En-Noor. It is, indeed, one, compared with the huts and stone
hovels amidst which it is placed. The materials are stone plastered with
mud, and also the wood of the mimosa tree. The form is an oblong square,
one story high, with an interior courtyard, and various appendages and
huts around on the outside. There is another house, and also a mosque
built in the same style, but much smaller. Of the rest of the
habitations, a few are stone sheds, but the greater part are huts made
of the dry stalks of the fine herb called bou rekabah, in the form of a
conical English haystack, and are very snug, impervious alike to rain
and sun. There are not more than one hundred and fifty of these huts and
sheds, scattered over a considerable space, without any order; some are
placed two or three together within a small enclosure, which serves as a
court or yard, in which visitors are received and cooking is carried on.
There is another little village at a stone's-throw north. The
inhabitants of these two villages consist entirely of the slaves and
dependants of En-Noor.

All around Tintalous, within an hour or two hours' ride, there are
villages or towns of precisely the same description, more or less
numerously peopled. At Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, however, we saw more
houses built of stone and mud. This may be accounted for by the fact
that the inhabitants are not nearly so migratory as those of Tintalous,
who often follow in a body the motions of their master, so that he is
ever surrounded by an imposing household.

I must not omit mentioning an important article of furniture which is to
be observed in all the houses of Aheer--namely, the bedstead. Whilst
most of the inhabitants of Fezzan lie upon skins or mats upon the
ground, the Kailouees have a nice light palm-branch bedstead, which
enables them to escape the damp of the rainy season, and the attack of
dangerous insects and reptiles like the scorpion and the lefa.

I shall hereafter make a few observations on the tribes inhabiting
Aheer. Here I will note that they are all called Targhee, that is
Tuarick, by the traders of the north; and that the predominant race is
the Kailouee. To me the latter seems to be a mixture of the Berbers, or
supposed aborigines of the northern coast, with all the tribes and
varieties of tribes of the interior of Africa. This may account for
their having less pride and stiffness than the Tuaricks of Ghat, who are
purer Berbers; as well as for their disposition to thieving and petty
larceny, of which I have recently been obliged to give some examples.
The pure Berbers, likewise, are much less sensual than their bastard
descendants, who seem, indeed, to have no idea of pleasure but in its
grossest shape.

The Kailouees are, for the most part, tall and active, little encumbered
by bulky bodies; some having both complexion and features nearly
European. At any rate there are many as fair-looking as the Arabs
generally, whilst others are quite negro in colour. The women are
smaller and stouter; some are fattened like the Mooresses of the coast,
and attain to an enormous degree of _embon-point_. They are not
ill-looking, but offer nothing remarkable in their forms.

I have already set down many particulars of manners, and shall proceed
to do so in the same disjointed way. At a future time all these traits
must be collected to form one picture.[2] For the present I am anxious
about the future progress of the Mission, and impatient, at any rate, to
hear some news of our advance. We cannot do all the things we would. Our
position is almost that of prisoners. We must depend entirely on the
caprice of En-Noor, who, however, may already have laid out his plans
distinctly, though he does not choose to communicate them to us.

[2] Perhaps the note-books of Mr. Richardson, in which facts
are set down fresh and distinct just as they presented
themselves, will be found to be more interesting than an
elaborate narrative. At any rate it has seemed better not
to attempt to do what was left undone in this matter.--ED.

_Oct. 2d._--We have been lately discussing the practicability of going
to Sakkatou, on a visit to the Sultan Bello; and this morning I looked
over, for the first time, some "letters of credit" which Mr. Gagliuffi,
our plausible consul at Mourzuk, had given me. I found that the amount
offered for the use of the expedition in Kanou does not exceed a hundred
and fifty reals of Fezzan, or about twenty pounds sterling, and that the
agent is expressly requested not to advance any more! This extraordinary
document induced me to look further, and it soon appeared that the
documents on which I relied so much were mere delusions. The wording of
the Arabic letter to Bornou was ambiguous; but in as far as I and my
interpreter could make it out, Haj Bashaw, to whom it is addressed, was
requested, if he had any money of Mr. Gagliuffi's in hand, to give me _a
little_! I really did not expect that a person in whom I had placed so
much confidence would play me this trick. But it seems that Levantines
are and will be Levantines to the end of time. I have written to
Government, complaining of this unworthy conduct.

_3d._--Dr. Barth is about to take advantage of the delay necessarily
incurred at Tintalous to visit Aghadez, the real capital of Aheer, to
which the new Sultan has lately been led, and where his investiture will
shortly be celebrated. This journey will extend our knowledge of this
singular Saharan country, and may also be of advantage in procuring the
signature of the Sultan to a treaty of commerce.

_4th._--Dr. Barth started this morning in company with Hamma, Waled Ocht
En-Noor (son of the sister of En-Noor). The departure took place in
presence of the Sultan himself, who had come to take tea with me. The
caravan was at first composed of bullocks, the camels being a little in
advance on the road. Our friend the Doctor started astride on one of
these animals, which are a little difficult to manage, especially when
they have been out at grass for some time. Indeed, in the first place,
it is no easy matter to catch them from amongst the herds; then it is
hard to load them; and then, though not often, they refuse to proceed.
On this occasion a powerful brute proved absolutely unmanageable.
En-Noor, seeing its obstinacy, exclaimed that he gave it to me to kill
and eat. He afterwards, however, modified his gift, and said that the
bullock was also to be distributed amongst the Arabs of the caravans now
in Tintalous; and that we were to give a turban as a present to the
herdsman. I was told that, in the meantime, representation had been made
to him, to the effect that it was unfair to distinguish the Christians
in this manner. Soon after the animal was given it ran away, and no one
could catch it.

Well, the bullock caravan went off in good style; and Sultan En-Noor
remained taking his tea and eating English pickles and marmalade with
me. He drank the tea and ate the other delicacies with evident pleasure,
not being afraid, like the greater part of his subjects, to eat the food
of Christians. Possession of power seems to have one good effect--the
destruction of prejudice; pity that it sometimes goes further and
destroys belief. En-Noor told us that the Sultan of Asoudee had gone out
on a razzia to the west. We are obliged to hope that it will be
successful, as otherwise our affairs will most materially suffer. We
talked also of the state of Zinder, which is represented to be a walled
town, with seven gates built amidst and around some huge rocks. The
governor, Ibrahim, keeps fifty drummers at work every night, but whether
with a purpose superstitious or political I do not know.

En-Noor admired much the portraits of the personages who figure in the
accounts of the former expedition to this part of the world,
particularly that of Clapperton. He had also a wonderful story to tell
of this traveller's magic. He said that Abdallah (Clapperton's
travelling name) had learned from his books the site of his (En-Noor's)
father's house, that near it was a gold mine, and that he had intended
to come and give intelligence of this treasure. "See!" exclaimed the
Sultan, "what wonderful things are written in the books of the
Christians!"

My young fighi (or writer of charms) tells me, as a secret, that he
cannot write a talisman for himself, but must ask another of the
brotherhood to do this for him. Neither in this place can physicians
heal themselves. This civil youth made me a present of a piece of his
workmanship to-day, observing, "There is great profit in its power; it
will preserve you from the cut of the sword and the firing of the gun."
I pray not to have occasion to test its efficacy, but hope it may also
serve as a protection from the bite of scorpions, which are so plentiful
about here, and are said, at this season, to jump like grasshoppers.
According to the people of Tintalous there are three species of them,
each distinguished by a different colour--black, red, and yellow.
Despite the talk of these disgusting reptiles I went in the evening to
see the wells which supply Tintalous with water. They are nothing more
than holes scooped out of the sand in the bed of the wady, and supplied
by _ma-el-matr_, "rain-water," which collects only a few feet under the
sand, and passes through no minerals.

I afterwards proceeded to the encampment of the slave caravan, which is
going in a few days to Ghat. A native of that place--the chief,
indeed--was exceedingly rude at our first rencounter, and the following
dialogue took place:--

_The Ghatee._ Where are you going?

_Myself._ I am going to Sakkatou.

_The Ghatee._ What for?

_Myself._ To see the Sultan, who is my friend.

_The Ghatee._ How do you know him?

_Myself._ The English have known him for years past.

_The Ghatee._ Ah!

_Myself._ Yes.

_The Ghatee._ Have you any dollars--large dollars? (making a large
circle with his thumb and forefinger.)

_Myself._ No: I don't carry money to Soudan, which is of no use to me.
There I shall have wada.

_Ghatee._ Eh! Eh! But cannot you give me a turban?

_Myself._ No, I am not a merchant, I don't bring such things; go to the
Arab merchants and buy.

_Ghatee._ Um! Um!

_Myself._ Do you know Mohammed Kafa in Ghat?

_Ghatee._ Oh, yes!

_Myself._ He is my friend.

_Ghatee._ Allah!

_Myself._ Yes; he sent me a fine dinner twice whilst I was in Ghat.

_Ghatee._ Allah! Allah!

_Myself._ Do you know Haj Ibrahim? He is my great friend.

_Ghatee._ Allah! Allah! (greatly surprised).

_Myself._ Why, how is it that you do not know me, Yakob, as I have
been in Ghat many years before?

At this some of the other people of the caravan cried out, "Yes, yes, we
all know Yakob;" so that I left the rude slave-merchant quite
crest-fallen. He evidently, at first, wished to assume the airs of a
Haghar, and bully me out of a present.

The caravan consisted of some thirty poor young women and children.
There was also with them a small quantity of elephants' teeth.

Now that the moon is absent and the nights are clear we have a most
splendid view of the heavens, its stars and constellations. The number
of meteors darting to and fro overhead is very great--nearly one a
minute shoots along. Some are only a faint glimmer, and have but the
existence of a moment, whilst others are very beautiful and last several
seconds.

_5th._--The weather is improving; the strong gusts of wind have ceased,
and so has the rain. We have now calm and fine days with moderate heat.

In the afternoon I received another visit from En-Noor, who came
straight into my tent, like an old friend whom I had known for twenty
years. He stopped with me at least an hour, drinking tea and smoking,
chatting the while about his past history and present affairs. He
reiterated again assurances of his friendship for the English, and his
determination to remain the ally of the Queen of England! He referred to
the time when the great Bello, sultan of Sakkatou, sent his ambassador
to request him (En-Noor) and all his people to subject themselves to the
Fellatahs. En-Noor gave him for answer, "I am under God, the servant of
God, and shall not submit myself to you or to any one upon earth. My
father, and grandfather, and great-grandfather, and all my ancestors,
ruled here, and were the servants of God, and I shall follow in their
steps." The Fellatahs then tried to seduce the people, but they all
said, "We have one Sultan, that is En-Noor." All the other authorities
of Aheer followed the example, and preserved their independence, the
people everywhere arming themselves with whatever weapons they had in
case a war should break out.

After this narrative, En-Noor spoke again of the English, and said he
should send a maharee for the Queen.

I gave him a fancy ring of the value of threepence, with a mock diamond
in it, which he immediately put on his finger with as much glee and
pride as the gayest Parisian coquette. Yusuf and the Sfaxee, being
present, swore it was _diamanti_; but I am quite sure the old Sheikh
understood the compliment. I also gave him a pair of bellows, a basin,
and a pint bottle with a little oil it; with all these things he was
greatly delighted, continually admiring and trying the bellows. When he
went out of the tent he himself carried all these articles away under
his arm.

With reference to our wish to start for Zinder, the Sultan says he will
send immediately for the boat, that it may be ready by the time Dr.
Barth returns from Aghadez, when he is determined himself to take that
route. He seems now in the enjoyment of good health. I felt much
satisfied with his visit. Certainly, when I reflect that in the northern
frontier of Aheer we were pursued for several days, like monsters not
fit to live, by armed bands, this appears to me extraordinary
condescension on the part of En-Noor. I hope we shall part in a friendly
manner. This worthy sovereign gives the present Sultan of Sakkatou, Ali
Bello, the character of a miser, but says that his father was a man of
liberality. He cannot exceed En-Noor himself in greediness.

The bad state of the Bornou route is accounted for by the desire the
Kailouees have to render it unsafe, so that they may have all the
caravans come along their own route. The same thing is said of the
Timbuctoo route from Soudan. The Haghar murder all who attempt to go
from Soudan to Timbuctoo, in order that the caravans may pass Ghat and
Tuat. This is called the natural explanation of the bad character of
these routes.

_6th._--I continue to record the few characteristic incidents of my
residence at Tintalous. Our bullock has been at last killed. We could
not catch him, but shot him down. The carcase was divided between no
less than twenty persons, and the meat proved to be pretty good. Of my
share I made steaks, which I washed down with some tea and rum. This is
the first time we have had fresh beef since leaving Tripoli. The event
created an immense sensation throughout the whole town of Tintalous, for
the slaughter of a bullock does not take place there every day.

This morning I administered two ounces of Epsom salts to a good-natured
Kailouee, who, although perfectly well, would persist in begging for
medicine. These people are continually asking to be doctored when
nothing ails them. En-Noor seems to have taken a fancy to our morning
beverages, and has sent for tea and coffee. I am afraid he will become a
regular customer. Yusuf carried off a bottle of rum from the tent in the
evening, which occasioned a disturbance between the servants and myself.
This worthy is not to be trusted with the care of any strong liquor. The
little Hamadee was privy to the theft. In the course of the evening the
_new moon_ was seen by seven creditable persons, so that in eight days
more we shall have the Feast of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven,"
and four or five days after that we hope to start for Zinder.

_7th._--This was a fine morning, with the thermometer at sunrise in the
tent 70 deg.; outside, 66 deg.. The water has been so cooled during the night
that my hands ached when I washed them. Later in the season it will be
yet colder; and all reports tell us that in Kanou after the rains it is
often very chilly.

His highness the Sultan again was attracted by my tea and marmalade, and
gave me a call. He desired to see once more the portrait of Clapperton,
and told me that Abdallah had five women in Sakkatou, and had left
behind him three children, all boys. The Sultan was excessively friendly
in manner, which induced me to make him another little present of a ring
set with paste, and a small pair of gilt scissors for one of his wives.
He calls me his brother, and manifests increased anxiety to be friendly
with the English. According to him, a short time since the Sheikh of
El-Fadeea, who commanded the attack made on us at the frontier, came
here; and, in consideration of a few presents and compliments, had
promised to exert himself to procure the restoration of our lost or
stolen camels. En-Noor also again talked about the boat. I am in great
hopes that we shall part from him on good terms, and that he will be
true to his protestations. There is generally a companion with the old
gentleman on these visits. This time it was an aged Tanelkum, who
married a sister of the Sheikh and has been settled many years in the
country. We gave him more tea, and also a piece of white sugar, to carry
home.

This evening the Fezzan and Tripoli Arabs had a musical entertainment,
accompanied with dancing, at which Madame En-Noor and several
distinguished ladies of Tintalous assisted. It was the usual singing
business, with Moorish hammering on tambourines. The dance was performed
by men, mostly in imitation of the women, and was also of the usual
inelegant and indelicate description. However, there was a little mixing
of the derwish dances. The thing went off to the great satisfaction of
the Kailouees, and was kept up till midnight.

_8th._--I slept little after the villanous dancing and riot of the
preceding night, and rose late. My occupation this day was completing my
vocabulary of the Kailouee language, of which I expect to collect a
thousand words. My interpreter sometimes gives very curious explanations
when I work with him. The Arabic word which we translate "Alas!" coming
under consideration, he observed: "There is no corresponding word in the
languages of these countries. This word belongs to the Koran and the
next world." He means, that the word has only a relation to the torment
of the damned. It is curious that this Arabic term agrees with, or is
like, our word _wail_ (Ar. _weel_), and is the term used by our
translators of the New Testament in describing the torments of the lost,
"Weeping and _wailing_" &c.

Of the term "chaste," Yusuf observed, "There is no such expression in
these languages; all the women are alike, and equally accessible when
danger is absent." It is also true that the men place no bounds to their
sensual appetites, and are restrained only by inability. It may be,
however, that the more religious would have some scruples about
intriguing with their neighbours' wives.

When we came to the word "school" Yusuf pretended there was not such a
word in Kailouee. He asked, "Where in Tintalous is there a school?" The
question, unfortunately, is put with too much truth. The Kailouees
hereabouts seem entirely to neglect education.

I myself observe that the Arabic _booss_ answers exactly to the vulgar
word in English for _kiss_.[3] The name of a raven is one of many
remarkable examples of a word being chosen to imitate in sound some
peculiarity of the thing signified. In this case, _kak_ irresistibly
reminds one of the raven's croaking voice; which we describe by _caw_.
_Kass_, scissors, is also an imitation of the sound produced by this
instrument in cutting.

[3] A good many similarities of this kind, accidental or
otherwise, might be pointed out: _ydrub_ is "to drub;"
_kaab_ would be translated, in old English, "kibe;"
_ykattah_ is "to cut;" _kotta_, "a cat;" _bak_, "a bug;"
_stabl_, "a stable," &c. &c. I have noticed, also, some
similarities with French words e.g. _ykassar_,
"casser"--ED.

In the evening the Sfaxee and Yusuf came to pay us a visit, and related
divers sorts of wonders of this and other countries of Africa. The first
matter concerned us. Eight days ago died in Tintalous an old witch, or
prophetess, a negress, who foretold our arrival, and said to En-Noor, "A
caravan of Englishmen is on the road from Tripoli, coming to you." This
woman for many years was a foreteller of future events. The next thing
we heard referred to the secret societies of Central Africa. Some of the
chiefs of these societies have the power of killing with their eyes. One
of these fellows is known to have gone to a merchant, in whose arms was
sleeping a pretty female slave, and to have entered into conversation
with him, asking him how he was, &c. In the meanwhile the wizard cast
his eyes upon the pretty slave, and its heart withered. This power is
accordingly much dreaded. If, however, any one perceive the incantation
of the wizard, and say, "Begone, you son of a brach!" he immediately
flees, like a dog with his tail between his legs.

In parts of Bornou, also, extraordinary things sometimes happen. There
are men in those places who have the power of assuming the shapes of
wild animals. This they do mostly in the nights. Under the form of lions
and leopards, they go to the tents of strangers, and endeavour to lure
them forth by calling out their proper names with a perfect human voice.
If any one is so imprudent as to obey summons and issue forth, he is at
once devoured.

The Sfaxee pledges his word of honour that there was a female slave a
year ago in Mourzuk who killed five of her companions with her looks. On
this a council was held by the merchants and great people of Mourzuk, to
know what to do with her, and the decision come to was to send her back
to Bornou; a happy decision for the poor slave! Lucky for her that she
was not born in some parts of Europe, with her marvellous power. Even
our friend Gagliuffi has not escaped these superstitions of the people
among whom he lives. On my seeing his young turkeys for the first time,
in very considerable numbers, I exclaimed, "What a host of young turkeys
you have got!" On this he became quite alarmed, lest I had cast a malign
look upon them, and ejaculated a counter-exclamation, "Oh, God bless
them!"

The Sfaxee and Yusuf do not speak very favourably of some parts of
Soudan as to morality. In some districts of Begarmi, Yusuf says, a male
takes the first female he meets with, no matter how near the
relationship. All the women, in fact, are in common. We must receive his
asseverations for what they are worth, on this subject in general, and
on the developements into which he entered. According to him, in those
regions where scarcely any other roof is required but the heavens, there
is no other couch spread than the earth, and no one shuns, in any act of
life, the eyes of his neighbours.

Whilst these wonders of witches and tales of African lewdness were being
related, a thing happened which none could disbelieve, none call in
question. This was the appearance of an immense meteor in the sky,
shooting over half the heavens, with a slight curve, from east to west.
It had a tail like a comet, and around its head burnt a blue light of
excessive brilliancy. This phenomenon appeared at a quarter to eight
o'clock in the evening. I never saw anything like it before, and perhaps
shall never again see its equal. It might have been visible two minutes.
We all cried out with surprise at beholding it. We had our faces towards
the south, and the course of the meteor was across the south, but not
very high, at about the third of the circle of the heavens. Afterwards,
every few minutes, small meteors were seen sporting about in the same
direction, some in a straight line and others descending.

_9th._--The wind of this fine cool morning prevented a visit from
En-Noor. That he might not be disappointed, however, I sent him his
customary tea; and amused myself by hearing the Sfaxee discourse of that
constant subject of conversation, the attack of the Fadeea. According to
him, on that occasion great fear was felt by all the caravan. Most of
our servants had formed the resolution to abandon us. There were,
however, some honourable exceptions; amongst the rest, Said, the great
mahadee, and another. Yusuf and Mohammed Tunisee proposed the plan, that
we three, the Germans, and myself, should be mounted on maharees, and
either conveyed back to Aisou or forward to Tintaghoda, during the
night. Some of the Kailouees wavered, as well as the Tanelkums; but
En-Noor (of our escort) always declared that he would never consent to
our being given up. The next morning, two or three of the assailants
were very bold, and came and called out in an authoritative tone, that
we must be given up. It is curious that, in spite of all the force that
was mustered against us, as soon as they saw that we were determined to
resist them, they immediately began to parley. The Sfaxee is an immense
talker, and great allowance must be made for what he says. In reality,
we shall never be able to know the exact truth with respect to this
affair. Dr. Overweg confesses that he was terribly alarmed as well he
might be. For my part, I was more used to desert dangers, and slept all
night. Dr. Barth very kindly refused to allow anybody to awaken me.

CHAPTER II.

_Oct. 10th._--My garrulous friend the Sfaxee has gone off this morning,
to bring his merchandise from Tintaghoda. The little fighi came, as
usual, to see me. I showed him the Arabic New Testament. He read a few
sentences, and then laid the book aside. I offered it to him, but he
refused to accept the inestimable present. He represents the feelings of
all the Muslims of these countries. They have not even any _curiosity_
to know the contents of the Gospel, much less the inclination to study
or appreciate them. They remain in a state of immovable, absolute
indifference. Even the beautiful manner in which the Arabic letters are
printed scarcely excites their surprise. En-Noor paid me his usual
morning visit, drank tea, and ate pickles and marmalade. We asked him
about meteors. He recollects the fall of many. One, he says, fell upon a
house, and terrified the inhabitants, who came running to him.
Afterwards they dug to the depth of a man, and found nothing, for it had
buried itself deep in the earth. According to him, a great profusion of
meteors denotes abundance of rain and herbage: but these phenomena exert
also a sinister influence like comets, signifying the death of some
great personage. I have no doubt that extraordinary meteors are very
frequent in this part of the Sahara. En-Noor was very condescending, as
usual: no change is observable in his manners.

It turned out that he had come with the intention of speaking on a very
delicate subject, but had refrained. We learned what it was afterwards.
Dr. Overweg was sent for in the course of the day to attend upon one of
En-Noor's wives, who had been frightfully beaten by his highness the
previous evening. This domestic broil formed the common topic of
conversation in Tintalous. Every scandal-monger has got hold of one
version of the story. From what we could gather, the great man was lying
down quietly, when suddenly, without any apparent provocation, he
started up, took a large stick from the fire, one of its ends still
burning, and with this terrific weapon belaboured his wife over the
face, striking especially at the mouth, and cutting the upper lip in
two. The poor woman is now very ill. No cause can be discovered for this
piece of brutality. En-Noor has, they pretend, two wives here, and one
on his estate at Damerghou; but he has only one son and three daughters.
No larger family has this great man, with all his wealth and slaves,
been able to bring up.

Beating a wife is so common in these countries, that, only when the act
is attended with features of unusual atrocity, as in this case of
En-Noor, does it excite any attention. There cannot be a question of the
fact, that our friend the Sultan is a great despot in every point of
view. Perhaps in no other way could he maintain any authority amongst
these semi-barbarian Kailouees. This, nevertheless, cannot excuse the
atrocity of beating his wife with burning fagots. Some say that the
exciting cause of his brutality was the eternal loquacity of the woman,
of which his highness began to be afraid. This may be true, or be only
an excuse invented by his courtiers. Supposing, however, the cause to
have been her _infidelity_, let us examine what can be reasonably
expected from these African women. They are not allowed scarcely to
believe themselves to possess souls; they have no moral motives to be
chaste, and certainly none of family and honour, being mostly slaves.
Then the greater part of the young girls of consequence are married to
old men, who are worn out by their sensual habits and indulgence with
innumerable concubines. These young women are thus left, though married,
like so many widows, without education or religious motives, and with
all their passions alive, to the first opportunity which presents
itself. We know what they do, and we cannot expect anything else from
them.

We have often dancing now of evenings. Yesterday, hearing the
tambourines and other instruments strike up, I went to the house of the
Sfaxee to see what was going on. They were dancing again their Mourzuk
dances before a number of delighted Kailouees, male and female; amongst
the rest Lady En-Noor herself. The whole beauty and appropriateness of
this exercise amongst the Moors consists, as is well known, in gross
imitations of natural acts. No further description or comment can I
permit myself. I have often thought that the present dance must be an
inheritance from very ancient times. There seems to be a part of our
nature to which it is adapted. The performances at European Operas are
often nearly as indelicate.

Evil communications corrupt good manners. One of our servants has
learned to act the Tuarick. He quarrelled with Yusuf, and on being told
to go away replied, "Yes. I will go; but when you get up to Damerghou I
will bring down the people upon these Christians, and they shall be
eaten up!"

_11th._--Zangheema, En-Noor's principal slave, came early this morning
for Dr. Overweg, that he might attend the "beaten wife." My privileged
friend went accordingly, and visited at the same time all the women of
the household. They received him in a very friendly manner: some of them
proved nearly white.

_12th._--This day I finished my Kailouee vocabulary, which contains
about a thousand words. I have never yet collected so large a quantity
of materials of any of the languages of Africa. I carefully packed up my
vocabulary for England, and got it ready, with other matters, to send by
the first opportunity.

Dr. Overweg has again visited the belaboured wife this morning, and
reports her to be improving. The Sultan seems now to repent what he has
done, and is endeavouring to obtain forgiveness by kind and courteous
behaviour.

There was a great deal of wind to day, but it did not come in puffs,
endangering our tents. I sometimes wonder, however, how the flimsy huts
of which part of Tintalous is composed are not swept away. They are made
of the dry stalk of that excellent herb bou rekabah, called in Kailouee
_afada_.

_13th._--No news stirring to-day; nothing said of razzias; so much the
better. We are living very quietly here, and the climate agrees with me
extremely well. Some of our people, however, are sick.

_14th._--The mornings continue cold; 65 deg. outside the tent, and a few
degrees higher inside. This fresh weather, no doubt, accounts for my
good health.

According to a Tibboo merchant now here, and going with our caravan, the
people of Wadai would receive a Christian well, and allow him to visit
their country. He represents Wadai as a very rocky region, like Aheer,
with two large rivers in it running from south to north--not season
streams, but continual. He says that the people are all blacks, and a
very tall race. They have a language of their own, which is difficult to
learn. Warrah is the capital. The natives drink a great deal of _bouza_,
and are nearly always intoxicated. Such is a summary account of Wadai
from the mouth of a Tibboo geographer.

This morning, Madame En-Noor sent me by Zangheema a pair of pewter
earrings, in exchange for some rings. It is extremely difficult to make
a good bargain with these people. With respect to our merchandise, it
all sells lower here than we paid for it at Mourzuk. The profits come
from the purchase of slaves. A burnouse of forty mahboubs will sell in
Soudan for little more than its cost, if dollars or money is to be
given; but if slaves are taken in exchange, three slaves, perhaps, may
be obtained, which, in Tripoli, may be sold at forty or fifty dollars
each. Hence the profit of the Soudan commerce. The article which yields
the greatest profit is loaf sugar, which, costing half a dollar in
Mourzuk, is said to sell for a full dollar in Bornou. To be sure there
is all the risk and the heavy freight of such an article, especially if
conveyed up during the rainy season.

I wrote yesterday a despatch to Government, requesting letters of
recommendation to be sent up to me in Kordofan, pointing out the route
of Egypt as the probable one by which I shall return to the
Mediterranean. I had a long dispute with Overweg about the letter
_ghain_, which he persists in pronouncing like a strong _k_. Yusuf was
called in, and declared that the _ghain_ was the letter which
distinguished Arabic from all other languages. In Kailouee Tuarick there
is no _kaf_ or _ghain_. These Berber dialects have, however, the hard
_g_ in a thousand words, and have also the _k_ in a great number of
cases, but the hard _g_ and the _t_ are the consonants most frequently
occurring. The Haussa has also the _g_ hard, as in _magaree_,
"good;" and a great number of words with the sound _tsh_, as _doutshee_,
a stone or mountain.

The Fellatah language is said to resemble the Kailouee; in other words,
to be a Berber dialect. If this be the case, the Fellatah people are
probably of Berber extraction, and not Arab, as they are vulgarly
supposed to be. This is a question requiring still further
investigation. Others, again, say that the Fellatah language is quite
different from the Tuarick. Overweg thinks Islamism was introduced into
Bornou by the Shoua Arabs, who are found in Bornou in great numbers. The
Fellatah, he thinks, received Islamism by way of Timbuctoo, from Moors
and Arabs trading to that city from Morocco. There is considerable
probability in both these opinions.

_15th._--Four or five days after the approaching Eed, or festival, half
the people of Tintalous will go for salt, and the other half prepare for
their annual journey to Soudan with En-Noor.

The inhabitants of Damerghou are reported to be half "_Kohlan_," blacks,
and half Kailouees. It is the Kailouees in the neighbourhood of
Damerghou who infest the borders and routes of Bornou. En-Noor is now
very quiet, and there is a chance that he will not come down upon me for
more money.

According to the Fezzanees, Tuat is thirty days from Aisou and
thirty-three from Taghajeet (short days). Ghat is forty short and thirty
long days from Tintalous or Asoudee. Bilma is fourteen long and seven
short days from Tintalous or Asoudee. There is no direct route from this
(Tintalous) to Timbuctoo; from Sakkatou there is, however, a short route
to Timbuctoo, and it is said to be a safe one. The number of days here
mentioned are merely general numbers; they vary according to the good
state of the camels, or the disposition of the people, or certain
accidents on the road.

The evening of the feast of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven," all
good Muslims ought to sit up all night to read the Koran, through and
through again.

There is a curious commerce of yamanee, or agate stones, in
Soudan. These yamanee are originally brought from the eastern
coast of Africa, from and near Mombas (Mozambique), where they pass as
money, like the cowries. From Mombas they are carried, by the Muscat
traders, to Yamen, and thence to Mekka; in which place they are blessed,
and rendered doubly precious. From Mekka they are brought to Egypt, and
from Egypt to Mourzuk; from which point they are distributed all over
this part of Africa, and the souk of Kanou is stocked with them. They
are much esteemed by all classes of the inhabitants of the interior of
Africa, and are worn equally by the men and women.

In this commerce we see the round-about-way in which some articles are
conveyed for sale. If there were a road from Mombas direct to Bornou,
this agate would be cheap enough. But then, perhaps, it would not be
esteemed or valued at half its present cost. It would not be blessed at
Mekka, and so lose all its talismanic and mysterious power. The name is
derived from Yaman, evidently from the first country in Arabia, to which
they were brought originally from Africa.

According to Overweg, Madame En-Noor is still very unwell with her lip.
It is cut right across under her nose, penetrating to the gums; she is,
nevertheless, very lively, and is always pestering Overweg to read the
fatah with, or marry a young girl, one of her relations. She endeavours
to warm my worthy friend to comply with her match-making wishes by
luxurious descriptions of the beauties of the proffered bride.

As soon as the people hear I have a wife in Tripoli, they begin to ask
how many children I have got. On receiving for answer, "None," they are
greatly astonished, and ask me the reason of so strange a matrimonial
phenomenon.

This evening another fine meteor appeared in the south-east. Its head
was like a blazing star, and it left behind it a train of sparkling
light and flame. There were also numbers of smaller meteors.

_16th._--The morning of the Eed. According to the Fezzanees, prayers are
soon ended; because, they say, "these Kailouees know nothing of their
religion."

The Fezzanees asked me to hoist the British flag; to which I replied,
"No; the flag belongs to the Queen, but I will give you a little powder
for your matchlocks." All these Mahommedan feasts are celebrated on the
northern coast of Africa by the discharge of gunpowder.

No certain information can be obtained of the route from Zinder to
Sakkatou, in this place. The people only say the present Sultan is not
so strong as was his father; thereby intimating that the routes are not
so secure as formerly.

It is usual for the inhabitants of Tintalous to visit those of Asarara
on the morning of the present feast. About sixty men, natives of this
place, accompanied by a dozen Moors from Tripoli and Mourzuk, went,
accordingly, to Asarara this morning. Then a number of the people of
Asarara returned with them. Yusuf remarked, with some surprise, that
even the women went out to pray, about forty in number. So that it would
seem the Kailouees educate their women in religion more than the Muslims
of the coast.

The most interesting event to us, however, this morning, was the arrival
of the boat from Seloufeeat. Our servants were very quick in their
return. They came all night, to avoid any further attempts to carry off
the camels. They were all alone. I welcomed the return of the boat as I
would that of an old friend.

There was no firing this evening, as was expected, En-Noor being very
unwell-suffering rheumatism and fever.

The most agreeable sight in all these Mahommedan feasts is to see all
the people dressed out in their finery. The merchants have appeared in
splendid burnouses, all more or less in good humour. The slaughtering of
the sheep to-day was the dirtiest part of the business. All here on such
occasions play the part of butchers-men, women, and children; and all
attack, stab, skin, and maul the poor animals, in a way frightful to
behold. The environs of the town were turned into dirty
slaughter-houses.

_17th._--I have determined to purchase no more things from the Sfaxee at
present. He makes me pay double price. It will be better to wait and see
what can be done at Zinder. An infidel traveller, who is known to be in
possession of any property, is sure in these countries to be looked upon
as a milch-cow. Does not "the book," according to the vulgar opinion,
authorise the faithful to take our lives? "Our purses are more lawful."

The festival being over, I went to pay my respects to Sultan En-Noor. He
is much better in health than yesterday, but has still a bad cold, and
continues to blow his nose and wipe it--pardon the _naive_
statement--with the sole of one of his sandals! The action struck me as
rather uncleanly and undignified in a prince; but Kailouees are not
punctilious.

Mr. Gagliuffi had mentioned to me that he had given assistance to some
shepherds who were begging their way to Soudan. One of these poor
fellows had come to see the Sultan. He seemed, indeed, miserably poor,
but tried to hide the fact, saying to them and Yusuf: "I have news for
you; now I am your friend, as I was a friend to the Consul in Mourzuk."
He was quite a young man, and excited my compassion.

In the afternoon I received a visit from En-Noor, with a whole train of
his people. The Shereef was absent. The Sultan came especially to see
the boat, the pieces of which were put together that he might know its
shape and size. Yusuf then drew for him a ship with all sails set, on a
piece of paper. It was very well done; and excited the applause of my
visitors. I treated them, as usual, with pickles, marmalade, and tea.
Among other things I showed En-Noor the broad arrow, or government mark,
on many of our things; as the guns, and pistols, tent, bags, and
biscuits, which greatly surprised him.

The Sheikh was in good spirits, and was pleased with his visit. I sent
him during the day a piece of dark blue cotton print for a pillowcase.
This little present delighted him much. I am much hampered with the
"princesses," who first sent to buy sugar, and then to beg, forgetting
to buy.

We have a Tuat Tuarick changing camels for slaves now in Tintalous. This
man belongs to the tribe called Sgomara, if I have caught the name
correctly.

_18th._--I rose early, having had a bad headache during the night
through eating meat in the middle of the day. Whatever is eaten in the
middle of the day must be taken very sparingly. I believe the greater
part of the diseases with which foreigners in these countries are
afflicted arise from want of sufficient attention to diet. We must take
great care of our health just as we are entering Soudan. The weather is
still cool, especially in the morning. The prevailing wind during these
last twenty days has been E.N.E., which is very refreshing. The Moorish
merchants pretend that in Soudan it is now very cold.

I received a visit from the young Shereef, whose conversation smacked a
good deal of a disagreeable curiosity respecting my movements and
intentions in Central Africa. I therefore gave him a very ordinary and
cool welcome. This fellow has been here some time, and never offered to
pay us a visit before. En-Noor has been feeding him during his stay. He
displayed a good deal of shrewdness, and is well acquainted with the
Christians of the Mediterranean. He is going to visit his brother in
Zinder, and then returns to Tripoli by the way of Bornou and Mourzuk.
Like all these shereefs, or marabouts, he pretended that had he been
with us, or had we travelled with him from Mourzuk to Tintalous, no one
would have dared to molest us; an assertion wholly false, for the
Tuaricks care little for marabouts when they are bent on plunder.

A young woman has just arrived from a distant village, with the express
object of procuring from the Taleb (Overweg) a medicine to produce
abortion: she says she has been gadding, "barra" (out of her mother's
house), and is frightened lest she should get a good beating. On
Overweg's refusing to give her any such medicine she burst out into a
pathetic lamentation, and talked loudly of what her parent would do to
her. Young ladies often think of their mothers a little too late under
these circumstances.

A slave of the Sultan of Aghadez arrived this morning, in six days from
the capital, to inquire after the health of En-Noor. He brings no
particular news, but says he saw Barth at Aghadez.

"Man is to man the surest, deadliest foe," has been quoted from the poet
as most applicable to the moral and social state of Africa. It may truly
be said to be our case, for hitherto we have suffered little in this
town except from men. Looking also around us, the people suffer less
from the arid country which they inhabit than from the violence which
they inflict one upon another.

I learned from Yusuf yesterday evening, that for every dollar I take
from the Sfaxee, if I pay in Mourzuk, I must give two. I was greatly
afflicted at this positive declaration, but scarcely believe it; if it,
however, prove to be the case, I must by all means find money in Soudan.
It will be a hard fight, indeed, to keep down the expenses of this
expedition; however, every effort must be employed to effect this
desirable object.

Maradee, I learn, is three days west from Tesaoua; and this latter
place is two from Zinder. There is another village, called Gazawa, one
day south of Tesaoua. The inhabitants of these places are half
Mahommedans and half pagans; the latter do not offer human sacrifices;
their religious rites consist principally in worshipping trees, to which
they sacrifice at certain seasons. The Fellatahs are always at war with
the people of Maradee, but Gouber is at peace with Sakkatou. In
Maradee there is one large stone-and-mud house for the Sultan; all
the rest of the houses are bell-shaped huts. The place has a numerous
population. Tesaoua is also independent and self-governed, as are most
of the places hereabouts.

I had a visit from two itinerant schoolmasters, natives of Bornou. From
these I learned that there does exist a little education amongst the
Kailouees. There is a village near called Amurgeen, three hours from
Tintalous, where children are sent from all the places around, so that
it forms a species of college or university. It is to this college that
En-Noor sends his sons and grandsons. These itinerant pedagogues are
negroes; and it is certainly a curious circumstance that from Central
Africa instruction should migrate northwards. But the Kailouees have
little pride in this respect; although boasting of the name of Tuaricks,
and accounting themselves _white_ people, or allied with the whites,
they do not scruple to receive education from the negroes of Bornou,
whilst certainly it would be very easy to have Kailouee schoolmasters.

I heard from my friend Tibbaou that En-Noor's territory in Tesaoua is
simply a village at some distance from the medeeneh, or city, where
there is a native and independent sultan of some power. His territory in
Damerghou is also a mere village. Nevertheless, the possession of these
places extends the political influence of the Kailouees in Soudan. The
neighbourhood of Damerghou, especially the western side, seems
celebrated for a tribe, or factions of tribes, consisting of bad
Tuaricks. This race is evidently spreading in Soudan; there are great
numbers in Gouber and the countries near.

I purchased from the itinerant pedagogues of Bornou two of their
ink-bottles, which are made of small calabashes. They wrote for me some
specimens of their penmanship, a charm, _fatah_, or first chapter of the
Koran. They wrote and formed their letters sideways, as some lawyers'
clerks do in England.

Dambaba Makersee took the liberty of informing me to-day, as if I did
not know it before, that all the things of us Christians were considered
by the Kailouees generally as common property, and that whoever could
lay hold of any ought to do so without qualm or scruple; but, he added,
when you arrive in Zinder, all will be changed. Let us hope so,
_Inshallah_!

Strings of charms are worn by the men occasionally under the arm, or
suspended over the shoulders, as well as round the neck. The charm or
armlet of the Moors and Tuaricks corresponds with the _Fetish_ of the
ancient Kohlan, people of Soudan, and of the present negro races on the
western coast.

I finished the statistics of the towns and villages of Asben--after all,
a very imperfect affair. Nevertheless, it is the best which I could make
from my materials.

En-Noor paid me a visit in the morning, and stopped gossiping two hours.
From him I learnt that the Fellatah language has no relation to the
Arabic or Tuarick, but is quite a language peculiar in itself. He also
informed us that the Gouberites were still at war with the Fellatahs of
Sakkatou; that they were united with the people of Maradee, ancient
Kohlans like themselves, and that this united force had been lately
gaining their lost ground against the new Muslim powers in Soudan.
En-Noor seems to favour the re-establishment of these people against the
Fellatahs. The latter he naturally hates, on account of their attempts
on the independence of the Kailouees, and their perpetual intrigues at
Aghadez.

With regard to Tesaoua, En-Noor pretends that he founded this city. His
statement is singularly suggestive and picturesque in its simplicity. He
says that he met, on the spot where Tesaoua now stands, a forlorn man,
with only two slaves.

"What are you doing?" he said to the man.

"Nothing," the man replied. "What can I do, naked as I am, with myself
and two slaves?"

"Oh!" rejoined En-Noor; "stop a minute, and I will bring you a multitude
of people, and we together will make a large city." En-Noor kept his
word, and brought a multitude of Kailouees, Kohlans, and their slaves.
Now Tesaoua is a mighty city, and En-Noor has got a small town of his
own near it, mostly peopled by his dependants. Such is the foundation of
many African cities; these places springing up as mushrooms, and
disappearing as soon.

En-Noor also pretends, that through his father he is heir to the thrones
of the ancient Kohlans, about Kashna, Gouber, and Maradee, and that he
ought to come into possession after the death of the present occupants.
This, I should think, is incorrect; but his highness has undoubtedly
great political influence in those countries. We learn that several of
the men of Tintalous have wives and families in Damerghou and Tesaoua,
but none of them have large families--only one or two children.

CHAPTER III.

_Oct. 22d._--A letter was received this morning from Dr. Barth. It
appears that the treaty will not be signed, nor even presented to the
Sultan. En-Noor paid me a visit, as usual, this morning. I presented to
his highness some old boxes, with which he ordered a door to be made for
his palace. His politeness does not cease, and the graciousness with
which he receives my presents is really remarkable.

The man sent after our camels brought back my poor white maharee, and
demanded ten dollars (as good as twenty to me) for his trouble. I
refused to give them, preferring to let him have the camel, which is
hardly worth ten dollars. This manner of recovering our lost or stolen
camels amounts to buying them over again. But it has been our misfortune
all along, that our friends, and those who profess to be such, and all
who attempt to aid us--every one of them, have profited by our losses,
and the disasters which have befallen us. This dispute has been referred
to En-Noor, and they have accepted five dollars, which I offered them.

I this day made out the statement of the principal items of expenditure
which the expedition has incurred from Mourzuk to Tintalous, including
the escort to Zinder. It amounts to the enormous sum of three thousand
mahboubs, or about six hundred pounds sterling!! If we do not proceed
better than this on the future part of the journey, the expedition will
at any rate be bankrupt and ruined for want of funds.

_23d._--Yusuf and I brought before Overweg this morning the necessity of
his assisting in relieving the Government from the double payment of the
sums advanced by the Sfaxee. He agreed that it was highly important to
save this money, and promised to place his goods at my disposal for sale
in Soudan.

On the departure of the caravan for Zinder and Kanou every male
inhabitant will leave Tintalous, some starting with it and others going
for salt, leaving only the women and children behind. This is considered
by the Moors as preferable to leaving a few men behind, because these
few would occasion quarrels amongst the women, and, besides, excite the
jealousy of the absent husbands.

Most of the men who go with us to Damerghou and forward to Tesaoua will
find another wife and family in both these places. This is a regular
emigration of males, not the accidental departure of fathers and
husbands. These gentlemen pass half the year in Soudan and half in
Aheer. The system does not appear to be advantageous to the increase of
population: the wives of these birds of passage hardly bear two children
a-piece. Indeed there are very few children in Tintalous. We have not
yet sufficient data or experience for a conclusion on this part of
statistics; but, up to the present, all that we have seen in Africa
during this journey exhibits it as singularly miserable and destitute of
population. We can hear of no man, not even a sultan with his fifty
female slaves, having more than four or five children. As for the poor,
one or two are all that they can bring up.

Whence, then, comes the supply of slaves? So far as this part of Africa
is concerned I may observe, in reply, that the annual number of slaves
brought is exceedingly limited, amounting only to a few thousands. When
we get nearer the western coast, we shall probably be able to account
for the supplies of slaves which are transported across the Atlantic.

This afternoon a well was commenced near our tents. The digging of a
well is an important matter; his highness En-Noor, therefore, vouchsafed
his presence. A number of the excavators came to me to beg for sugar. I
brought out a piece of white loaf sugar, and broke it into thirty pieces
or so; then ordered one of them to divide it fairly amongst themselves:
but this was impossible. Anything like fairness amongst the Kailouees,
all of whom are addicted to thieving (a habit acquired from Soudan), was
out of the question. As soon as I rose from the ground, after breaking
the sugar on a leathern apron, there was a general rush upon it, and
some got a great deal and others none. Was not this a fine miniature
picture of mankind?

_24th._--En-Noor paid me a very early visit, and drank coffee. I heard
that a courier to Mourzuk would cost forty dollars. I begin to learn a
little Soudanese; there are some beautiful soft words in it. Yusuf says
there is no name for God in this language; but his statement requires
further examination.

From what we learn respecting Barth's reception at Aghadez, it would
appear that the people were disposed to look upon him with the same
complacency as they are wont to regard the pagans, or En-sara as they
call them, of Gouber and Maradee. Indeed, the Tanelkums and Kailouees
consider that we shall be well received by our brethren, the pagans of
Soudan.

Here is a most extraordinary trait of the barbarity of the Tibboos. It
often happens that they are out foraging for twenty days without finding
anything to eat. If they light upon the bones of a dead camel, they take
them and pound them to dust; this done, they bleed their own living
camels (maharees) from the eye, and of the blood and powdered bones they
make a paste, which they eat! This is somewhat analogous to what Bruce
relates of the Abyssinians cutting out beefsteaks from the rump of a
live bullock. The Tibboos possess the finest maharees; and the breed in
the rest of the Sahara is always being improved or kept up by a constant
supply from their country.

I continue to supply his highness En-Noor with either tea or coffee
every day. I sent him some early this morning. He is a greedy old dog,
and will not buy a loaf of sugar because I will not give it him at the
price of Mourzuk, and thus lose the freight. I hold out, and we have
sold him none for the present.

Overweg is making a small commercial lexicon of the things brought to
the market of Kanou: a most excellent idea. I myself intend, if I go to
Kanou, to make a list of all the things I find in the Souk, with some
account of their produce and mode of importation into that mart.

The great gong sounded throughout the village this afternoon, to give
note of preparation to all the people, that every one of the males must
be ready to leave this place in the course of three or four days. The
Sheikh says he is determined to leave in three days, whether the people
come from Aghadez or not. Yusuf laid before En-Noor this evening the
necessity of our sending a courier to Mourzuk, stating that we had
nothing left. His highness pitied our case, and said he would look about
for a courier; observing, "The Consul has need of much money and many
presents in Soudan." He said, also, that he would recommend us to go to
Bornou.

_25th._--The days are now pretty hot, and the nights correspondingly
cool. We have a good deal of wind. I wrote a letter to Drs. Overweg and
Barth jointly, calling upon them to assist me in case the Sfaxee would
not wait for his money until the return of the courier. Dr. Overweg
consents. I wrote out the Tuarick alphabet.

The account of the Tibboos pounding the camels' bones and bleeding their
animals to make paste, is confirmed by the Gatronee of the Germans.[4]
He says, moreover, that this is the way in which they proceed. Every
Tibboo must fast three days before he thinks about eating. If on the
fourth day he do not arrive at the _belad_, or country, he then takes
his left sandal from his foot, and stews or soddens it, making something
of a soup. These sandals being leather, or untanned hide, it is,
perhaps, not impossible to make of them a palatable soup! If on the
fifth day he find no village, he then devours the sandal of his right
foot. After this, still not finding a village, he collects bleached
camels' bones and bleeds his camel as before mentioned.

[4] People are called here by the nation, and even town, to
which they belong, or in which they were born, as sometimes
in Europe.

A Tibboo always has a girdle with seven knots, and when travelling hard
takes in, as the sailors would say, a reef every day; if after seven
days he find nothing to eat, he is considered hungry and unfortunate.
The three Tuaricks who followed us from the well of Aisou declared that
they had had nothing to eat for fifteen days; and there cannot be a
doubt of the fact, that both the Tibboos and the Tuaricks can, on a
pinch, remain without food for a considerable time--say ten or twelve
days.

A Tuatee, who knows Algiers well, arrived here this afternoon, and is
going with us to Zinder. He brings an extraordinary report about the
copy of the treaty which I left with Haj Ahmed at Ghat. He says he heard
it read, and from it learned that "the Queen of England is now in
Tripoli, and wishes to come and live in Ghat, and has offered to buy
half Ghat." Such is the nature of Saharan reports.

More authentic intelligence arrived to-day by a courier, who made the
journey from Ghat to Seloufeeat in fourteen days--sufficiently quick.
This courier brings a warning from Khanouhen to the caravans now
proceeding to Ghat, not to come in twos or threes, as they were wont,
but to come altogether, as he fears reprisals from the Shanbah and the
Haghar.

The history of the thing is this:--A tribe of Tuaricks has always acted
as the guides of the Shanbah in their foraging parties--on the Tuarick
territory, for example--always pointing out to them the camels of the
people of Ghat. Khanouhen has chastised this treacherous tribe,
destroying a great many of them; but the Shanbah and Haghar not choosing
to desert their old friends, have determined to take vengeance upon the
Ghat Tuaricks. It is this revenge which Khanouhen fears. He anticipates
a combined attack on the caravans. The wonder is how these routes are
kept open at all, when these distant tribes, who have no interest in the
commerce that moves along them, are notorious for their predatory
feelings and education. It is now said that the Fadeea, our friends on
the frontier, are in league with the Shanbah against the Ghat Tuaricks.

En-Noor, it appears, had sent his son to salute the new Sultan of
Aghadez, and to assist in establishing or placing him on his throne. He
got as far as Asoudee, when he fell in love with a pretty woman of the
town, and at once married her, proceeding no farther on his mission.
Yesterday evening a man arrived mounted on a maharee, bringing with him
all the finery of the bride, which he exhibited to the people, riding
about the town! All were greatly astonished at the splendour of the
bride's dowry. Are not these fit materials for an Arabian Night's
entertainment? My servant, Said, also married the other evening, but not
so romantically; taking up with the divorced wife of another freed
black. I heard nothing of it until all was over. The parties guessed
rightly that I should take no interest in the matter, or rather
disapprove of it, as the fellow has abandoned his own and natural wife.
This divorced negress, who has at last found a master, has gone the
round of all the tents since she has parted from her former husband, and
is a little intriguing wretch. The Sfaxee and Yusuf countenanced the
affair, but kept it quite unknown to me. They, however, fetched Overweg,
and presented him with a portion of the marriage-supper--bazeen. I felt
much disgusted on hearing of the affair. The old wife is a native of
Kanemboo, and is going thither. She will, of course, gladly take leave
of her husband and this young wife and rival. Marriage is an excessively
loose tie here, at any rate amongst the poor. The rich pretend to
respect marriage.

We have all done little in clearing up difficulties, or obtaining
correct information of the Tuaricks of the Sahara. No good informants
are to be found. From the Sheikhs of Ghat it is quite impossible to
learn anything. We hope to get some information from a Tanelkum now
going with us. Many tribes have been mentioned, casually; but the
principal are--the three great tribes of Ghat, those to which Khanouhen,
Shafou, Jabour, and Hateetah belong--a tribe in Janet--the Haghar of
Ghamama--the Isokamara, located on the Tuat route from Aisou--the
Tanelkums of Fezaan--the Maraga, a breed produced from the slaves of the
Haghar and the Sorgou of Timbuctoo.

_26th._--The sky is now frequently cloudy, but no rain falls. The valley
of Tintalous is looking fresh, on account of the great quantity of wild
cauliflower overspreading its surface, called by the Arabs _liftee_.
This word _liftee_, is evidently derived from _lift_, "turnip." The
vegetable grows in lines and circles, determined apparently by the
action of the water, which deposits the seeds. No use is made of this
wild cabbage; it is very bitter, and no animals even eat it.

En-Noor paid me a visit this morning before I was up; he drank some
coffee, and went off to see his camels. The Tanelkums were quite wrong
in their surmisings about En-Noor and his religious fanaticism. He has
shown less fanaticism than any prince with whom we have had yet anything
to do during the present journey. All the Kailouees of Tintalous are
equally tolerant. We have now three quasi-princes, or sons of sultans,
in Tintalous, besides the son of En-Noor. We have Mousa Waled Haj-Ali,
who takes our despatches to Mourzuk, with Yusuf my interpreter, and a
Tibboo, the son of the Sultan of Kouivar. As we proceed onwards, princes
and sons of princes will thicken upon us.

_27th._--I packed up and sent off all my despatches to Mourzuk, together
with a few trifling things for my poor wife, by the hand of Mousa Waled
Haj-Ali, the virtual Sheikh of the Tanelkums.

_28th._--All the male inhabitants, with the exception of five or six,
have gone off this morning to fetch salt from Bilma. They return here in
the course of a month, and the greater part of the salt is transported
from hence to Soudan by the next caravan. We have heard of our friends
at Aghadez. They are expected here in a few days. The new Sultan of
Aghadez is said--but there is little accuracy in these desert
reports--to have gone on an expedition west, to settle some differences
between some tribes in arms against one another. The people also say
that the new Sultan is "hungry," and is glad of such an opportunity to
get "something to eat." This is the way in which they would describe a
Chancellor of the Exchequer planning a new tax.

Some say the object of the razzia is to chastise the Fadeea for
attacking us; but still the main object is to fill the Sultan's "own
hungry belly." Such are Asbenouee politics.

_Bakin-Zakee_, the Soudanese name of the Kailouee green cap, I know here
means the "_lion's mouth_." This is the phrase with which I always
salute Zangheema, En-Noor's chief slave; but the terms are much more
appropriate for his master, as intimating his avaricious, nay voracious,
disposition. Zangheema, however, might be called "Karen Zakee,"
the jackal of the lion, or "the lion's provider," so anxious is he to
minister to the voracious appetite of his lord.

We have received the news that Dr. Barth is near. He is expected
to-morrow evening, or early next day.

_29th._--En-Noor paid me a visit at sunset to-day, and talked of how
many children people had in this country. His highness said he knew a
sultan in Soudan who had seven hundred children.

_30th._--The Gatronee of the Germans confirms the report of the
circumstance, that, when the Kailouees go to the Tibboos to trade for
salt, all the male Tibboos run away, leaving all the business in the
hands of the females; which latter, besides trading in salt with the
Kailouees, make a good mercantile speculation with their charms. Each
woman, in fact, has her Kailouee husband or lover, during the carrying
on of this singular commerce. If the traders catch a single Tibboo man
staying behind, they at once murder him, with the most marked
approbation of the Tibboo women. Such is the state of connubial fidelity
in this part of the Sahara.

The Tibboos have been very greatly neglected by persons writing on
Africa, chiefly on account of the slighting, summary way in which they
are spoken of by the members of the former English expedition to Bornou.
They are, however, divided into a great number of tribes, are spread
over a considerable extent of country, and are partly the guardians of
the Bornou route. We must pay them some attention when they come under
our observation.

There is a man come from Dr. Barth and his party. They are expected in
the course of forty-eight hours. En-Noor is very angry that they do not
mend their pace. We are all ready to start. An immense caravan is
waiting for their arrival.

_31st._--The people begin to pester me to marry another wife in
Soudan,--one very young and with large breasts is the kind of article
they recommend.

The mysteries of Tintalous are celebrated at the well in the evening,
under the bright, glowing light of Venus, which star is now seen a
couple of hours above the horizon after sunset. On the margin of the
well, which is on the other side of the wady, at the distance of a
quarter of a mile, the damsels of Tintalous regularly meet their lovers,
and spend with them half an hour of sweet communion. Some even retire to
the shade of a large-spreading tholukh near, or behind blocks of rock
rising on the edge of the valley, and indulge in lawful or unlawful
embraces. The strangers who come here, the Moors of Tripoli and Fezzan,
are freely initiated into these mysteries.

I am told by our servants, who have been round to all the villages or
towns in the neighbourhood of Tintalous for the purchase of ghaseb, that
these places, small or large, are none of them equal to Tintalous,
although the houses are much the same--bell-shaped huts, and the people
are of the same character. What has greatly astonished our servants is
the fewness of the men; indeed, in some villages they saw no other
persons but women and children, and scarcely any children. What is the
cause of this? It would seem that the men are consumed by the women.
These women bear few children, and perhaps this may in part account for,
if it be not produced by, their excessive licentiousness. Yet the men
are on the wing a great part of the year. The Kailouees, however,
wherever they go, have their women at hand, and during a journey many of
them take two or three female slaves. How is this superabundant supply
of the softer sex kept up? If I am noticing a mere temporary phenomenon,
the destruction of men in the razzias may account for the disproportion.
Besides, the Kailouees are always imparting fresh slaves into their
country.

The poor people of Tintalous are fed chiefly on the pounded grains of
the herb _bou rekaba_. It is a real Asbenouee dish. Overweg made a
supper of it one evening. I tasted it, and find it has a very strong
flavour of herbs; that is to say, what is commonly imagined to be the
flavour of herbs in general. The people now go a long way for wood. The
tholukh-trees of the valley are not allowed to be cut down; they are
always preserved as a resource for the time of drought and dearth, when
the flocks can find no herbage in the valley. The boughs are at such
junctures lopped off, and the flocks are fed on the leaves. Thus I have
seen the goats and sheep fed on the tholukh-leaves on the plains of
Mourzuk, as well as near this place. Another reason may induce En-Noor
to save the tholukh-trees,--that there may be a perpetual shade and
verdure in the valley of Tintalous. There are many finer valleys than
this in Asben, and were the trees not preserved, it would be a very
barren, unlively spot.

This evening, two hours after sunset, Venus exhibited her most splendid
phasis: the west, where she was setting, about half-an-hour before she
disappeared, was lit up as if it was moonlight. On concealing the
planet, the effect produced was that of the setting of the moon. Every
star was eclipsed in the western circle of the heavens, I never saw
anything before equal to this. I could here fully realise the words of
Scripture, that the stars were made also "to give light upon the earth."

The manner of saluting and shaking hands amongst the Kailouees deserves
notice: they first hold up the right hand with the palm outspread, like
the Tuaricks of Ghat. Afterwards, when more companionable and familiar,
they take hold of hands, and press them lightly some five or six times
or more, if great friends, and conclude this pressing of the hand with a
sort of jerk, drawing quickly off each other's hand. In taking hold of
the hand of your friend, you fit your thumb in the circle formed by his
thumb and fingers, and every time you press his hand, and he presses
yours, you separate the hands from each other.[5]

[5] This mode of shaking hands is common among the Fellahs of
Egypt.--ED.

_Nov. 1st._--The month has set in with wind,--not gusts, but steady
wind, continually blowing from E.N.E. It is stated positively that we
leave here to-morrow morning, whether the people return or not from
Aghadez. I register all reports as I hear them, though perfectly aware
that we have not been yet quite let into the secret of the singular
migration in which we are about to bear a part. The greater number of
the men of Tintalous have gone to Bilma in search of salt; and I
originally understood that the great annual caravan was for the
transport of this necessary article. Perhaps En-Noor means to go slowly
on, just to keep us in good humour. Our intercourse with the Kailouees
has taught us to consider them a very mild, companionable race. Often
indeed, like children, I wonder what the Tibboos can see in them to make
them so desperately afraid, for I am told ten Kailouees will frighten
away fifty Tibboos of Bilma. But the Tibboos of Tibesty are considered a
braver race. It is worthy of remark, that these cowardly Tibboos have a
bad character, and, like most cowards, are very treacherous.

I determined not to carry the little box in which the two bottles of
champagne were packed any further; so I, Overweg, Yusuf, and the
servants, set to work and drank a bottle of it, to the toast, "that we
might have better luck higher up than all have hitherto experienced."
The other bottle I have stowed away in reserve for the Lake Tchad, to
drink the health of Her Majesty when we launch the boat, if we are
fortunate enough to arrive there.

I went to the wells to see the people get water this morning. A number
of little children came,--some naked, and others with small pieces of
leather round their loins: they all wore very large necklaces of charms
sown up in leather bags.

CHAPTER IV.

Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez--Description of the
Route--Tiggedah--Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah--Plain of Tarist--Beautiful
Valley--Buddeh--Small Caravan--Aghadez--its Inhabitants--their
Occupation--The great Koku, or Sultan--Asbenouee Revolutions--Election
of a Prince--Interview--Ceremony of Investiture--Razzia--Intricate
Political System--Account of Aghadez--Mosque--Environs--Women--Tribes
of Asben--The Targhee Family--Population of the Ghat Districts--of
Aheer--The Oulimad and Tanelkums--Tribe of
Janet--Haghar--Sagamaram--Maghatah--Extent of Aheer--Connexion
with the Black Countries--Mechanism of Society in
Aheer--Chieftains--Tax-gathering--Food of the
Kailouees--Maharees--Amusements--Natural Features of
Asben--Vegetation--Cultivation--Manufactures--Bags for Charms.

Dr. Barth[6] has made a very interesting journey to Aghadez. He says the
track lies either through fine valleys or over mountain-chains cut up by
defiles. Here and there were charming spots, green with herbage and
trees. In going, the shallow wells at Eghelloua were found to be full of
water; but a month later they were all dry. Beyond is the Wady Chizolen,
overlooked by a mountain that rises abruptly to the height of two
thousand feet. Then comes the valley of Eghellal, with its rivulet, and
beyond swell the famous mountains of the Baghzem. The worthy Doctor
seems to have been too much occupied in collecting geographical data to
preserve many picturesque facts by the way. On the third day he encamped
at Tiggedah, where numerous species of trees and bushes tufted the
valley, which was clothed also, near the margin of its streams, with
grass as fresh and green as any in Europe. At that time, however, the
place, with the exception of the cooing of wild doves and the cry of a
solitary antelope, seemed perfectly unvisited by man. Afterwards, it was
found full of flocks and herds, and enlivened by the encampment of a
salt-caravan, with a string of young camels bound for Aghadez. The tribe
to whom the valley belongs are nomadic, and shift from one place to
another, as their fancies and necessities suggest. Amidst the trees,
however, may be seen a small mosque, built of stone and roofed with
palm-trees.

[6] See the papers read before the Geographical Society, in
January and March 1851. It appears to me that Mr. A.
Petermann slightly depresses the importance of the part
played by Mr. Richardson in this mission. However, this may
arise from the fact that the communications on which his
paper was founded were all from his German friends. It is
not necessary to be grudging of notice to any of the three
enterprising gentlemen who undertook this arduous journey;
but we must always remember who planned the Mission, and
who directed it with consummate prudence as long as life
and strength lasted. In Mr. Richardson's MS. an outline is
given of Dr. Barth's journey, and I therefore insert it,
with corrections and additions, from the papers just
alluded to.--ED.

This agreeable place prefaces the still more luxuriant scenery of
Asadah, where the vegetation is so rich, and the path so shut up by
branches, that it is difficult to keep on the camel's back. What a
contrast to the naked deserts of Ghat! It was from between the rich
foliage of this valley that Dr. Barth obtained his first glimpses of the
majestic mountain-chain of Dogem, estimated to attain the height of
between four and five thousand feet. It is the loftiest range in Aheer.

The plain of Erarer-en-Dendemu, which next succeeds, is covered with
brushwood and low trees, and inhabited by lions--here called the Father
of the Wilderness. Dr. Barth saw several, as well as a kind of ape about
the size of a small boy, squatting in crowds on the lower hills. Beyond,
overhung by the mountains of Anderas, is the rocky plain of Tarist,
famous among the Arabs, as well as the Kailouees, on account of the
remains of a mosque, indicated only by lines of stones on the ground. It
was founded by a great saint called Sidi Baghdadi, and is a general
resting-place for caravans. The basaltic formation here succeeds the
granitic; and the plain is covered with loose black stones, about the
size of a child's head.

Escaping from this rough ground, the travellers entered a narrow valley,
trenched by a broad watercourse, along the sides of which was a thick
growth of palm-trees. There are two villages in this wady. Near one of
them slaves were seen yoked to a plough, and driven like oxen, by their
master. Further south the hoe replaces the plough in preparing the
ground. This valley, inhabited by the Imrad (a Targhee tribe), is
capable of producing not only ghaseb, but corn, wine, dates, and all
kinds of vegetables. Fifty gardens adorn, it is said, the neighbourhood
of Ifargen. But, in general, the rich soil is left uncultivated, and is
covered by wild and sickly vegetation, which checks the progress of the
traveller.

In Wadi Buddeh grows a prickly plant called karengia; and a parasite
(_griffenee_), producing a sweet but insipid berry of a red colour. A
party of five lions were pursued like so many jackals. A small caravan
of four persons, in Wadi Teffarrakad, were making use of four different
modes of progression: one was on a camel, another on a buffalo, the
third on a donkey, and the fourth used his own legs. In Wady Boghel were
the signs of a field of ghaseb having existed last year. The ground was
covered by a sickly wild melon; and in the thick foliage of the trees
the guinea-hens were cackling. Here Dr. Barth saw the first specimen of
the baure tree, the trunk measuring twenty-six feet in circumference,
and the thick crown rising to the height of eighty feet. Here and
elsewhere wild beasts were observed. The whole country, indeed, abounds
in lions, wild boars, gazelles, ostriches, and monkeys.

On the seventh day the party reached Aghadez, which they entered about
an hour after sunset, it being the custom in this country never to enter
a town by day. Aghadez is situated on a hamadah, or lofty plateau of
sandstone and granite formation. Around, although there is no arable
soil, a good deal of herbage and wood is found in the depressions of the
plain. It is not surprising, therefore, that this much-talked-of capital
is nothing but a large village, as indeed are all the other places of
Aheer, with the exception of Asoudee. Aghadez, which is mentioned by Leo
Africanus, is said by tradition to have been founded or enlarged by
settlements from the north, consisting of a people called Arabs, but
probably Berbers, since expelled by the Tuaricks. It serves as a sort of
rendezvous between the Kailouees and the tribes to the south and west. A
peculiar language (Emghedesie) is spoken by the inhabitants in their
private intercourse; but Haussa is the idiom of trade. There are about
seven hundred inhabited houses scattered among the ruins; and of fifty
thousand people who must previously have lived within the walls, scarce
eight thousand remain.[7] The inhabitants are partly artizans, partly
merchants; but few caravans now pass on this route, and commerce with
Timbuctoo seems altogether to have ceased. The trade that exists is
entirely in provisions, principally in ghaseb, or millet, which is
imported from Damerghou. The system adopted is entirely one of
barter--the Aghadez money consisting of turkedi,[8] or dark-coloured
cotton for female clothing made in Soudan, Egyptian leather for sandals,
English calico, white shawls, cloves, pepper, pearls, &c. All these
objects are imported, the only manufactures of Aghadez being
leather-work (sandals and saddles) and coloured mats. I do not know what
materials are used in tanning. The Fezzanee gets assistance, according
to my fighi, from four trees--the graut, the ethel, the pomegranate, and
the essalan. The first and last are a species of acacia. Women and men
work in their houses at the production of these articles, and merchants
go and purchase _a domicile_, there being now no shops. There are three
market-places or bazaars, where prices are very low.

[7] This is Dr. Barth's statement, which I have introduced from
his own account. It will have been seen that Mr. Richardson
(see vol. i. "Note on the Territorial Division of Aheer,")
makes a much lower estimate. I may here remind the reader,
that even when in his diary Mr. Richardson inserts two
different and contradictory statements, I do not undertake
to select one and suppress the other, except in the case of
an obvious slip of the pen. Nor have I thought it necessary
to burden the page by indications of slightly different
assertions. A diary must necessarily abound with imperfect
observations, which correct or complete one another; and
perhaps the general impression left on the mind of the
reader--who accompanies, as it were, the writer in
receiving its various elements--is more like truth than it
would be after the perusal of one absolute dogmatic
statement.--ED.

[8] As an illustration of the previous note, I will observe
that this word is spelt in several different ways in the
MS., and I do not know which is the correct one.--ED.

The Sultan of Aghadez, the great Koku Abd-el-Kader, does not receive any
direct contribution towards his revenues, from the people of Aghadez,
but levies a kind of _octroi_ of ten mithkals on every camel-load of
goods that enters the town, provisions being exempt. He has property of
his own, however; receives presents at his installation; and can always
raise a sum by making a razzia on any neighbouring freebooters.

It is a fundamental law in Aheer, that the Sultan of Aghadez shall
belong to a particular family, which is said to derive its origin from
Constantinople. Therefore when, in consequence of some discontent,
Abd-el-Kader was deposed last year, the malcontents chose a relative,
Hamed-el-Argau; but he also displeasing, a rival was set up in Makita,
also of the same family. This caused great confusion, and the Walad
Suleiman took the opportunity to make forays against Aheer. The prudent
then resolved to restore the old Sultan, and succeeded, as I have
already said, in their endeavours. When Dr. Barth arrived in Aghadez,
the investiture was about to take place. The Sultan is chosen by the
Kilgris and Iteesan tribes, who nourish a deadly hatred against their
kindred, the Kailouees. On the present occasion, however, a marabout
proclaimed peace and good-will between these ancient enemies. It was
necessary, indeed, that some understanding should be come to, as after
the election the ratification of En-Noor and Lousou is required.
En-Noor, especially, is greatly respected by the people of Aghadez, as
the grand supporter of authority in Asben. The new Sultan is usually
brought from Sakkatou in state by the tribes Iteesan and Kilgris. A vast
crowd of them, with their families and flocks, had marched up and
occupied a camp near the town; but they departed on the same day that
Dr. Barth arrived--even before he entered.

Early in the morning, Dr. Barth paid his respects to the Sultan. He was
a stout man, about fifty-five years of age--benevolent-looking, as far
as could be judged in spite of his face-wrappers. He sat in a large
room, supported by two massive columns, and received his visitors
kindly. The presents pleased him, and were acknowledged by the
counter-present of a fat ram, and by meals sent every day.

The ceremony of investiture took place on the 16th of October, and seems
to have been an imposing spectacle. Certain intricate forms are used to
express the combination of various Tuarick tribes in choosing this
foreign sultan. Succeeding it was the great festival, on which a
procession took place, in which the new chief, wearing the burnouse
which I had sent him, took part, with a great number of Tuaricks in
their best array. Immediately afterwards a razzia (of which both we and
Dr. Barth heard various conflicting reports) was agreed upon against the
tribes of the north, especially those who had molested our
expedition--the Fadeea. It was highly successful, and may perhaps be
useful in procuring respect for future travellers. Two thousand men went
out upon this foray, in which Abd-el-Kader was accompanied by
Astakeelee, the Sultan of the Kailouees. Some, indeed, say that the
latter only acted. Very little resistance was made, and I hear of only
one man being killed. The fellow who stole Barth's maharee was compelled
to restore him. Dr. Barth, however, though well-pleased on the whole
with his reception, did not venture to present the treaty. He obtained
some letters of recommendation to Soudan. Many of the distinguished
persons of Aghadez visited Dr. Barth during his stay, and altogether his
reception was satisfactory.

I have already mentioned that the Sultan of Aghadez, though elected and
controlled by a kind of aristocracy of sheikhs of various tribes, is
invested with the power of life and death. He is said to have a
frightful dungeon, into which guilty persons are thrown upon swords
sticking upright in the ground. In his warlike expeditions he is
regarded, however, as chief of some tribes only. The Kailouees have a
sultan of their own, and encamp apart. The Sakonteroua, or Sheikh of
Aghadez, exercises considerable influence. He is obliged annually to
accompany the great salt-caravan, which sometimes numbers ten thousand
camels--Saharan statistics--to Sakkatou.

The town of Aghadez was formerly divided into a variety of quarters, the
names of which still remain, although the space they occupied--three
miles in circuit--is now principally filled with ruins. With the
exception of five or six rubbish-hills, the whole space is level. The
houses are spacious, with large rooms and court-yards. They are of mud,
whitewashed, and furnished with flat terraces. Doves, children, and
young ostriches, enliven the streets. There are some mosques, but none
of imposing architecture. One, however, has a lofty tower, almost
pyramidal in shape, supported on a basement of pillars, and rising to
the height of about ninety feet. There is a kind of ladder inside; but
Dr. Barth was not allowed to ascend, being told that the entrance was
walled up.

The land around the town is slightly undulating, and covered in the
depressions with the _Acacia Arabica_. Herbage and good water abound.
There are no orchards near, except in Wady Ameluli; but El-Hakhsas,
three hours distant, produces melons, cucumbers, and melochiyeh, and
supplies the whole town.

The women of Aghadez are reported to be free and easy in character, and
let loose tremendously as soon as the Sultan had departed on his razzia.
Dr. Barth had some difficulty in keeping them at a distance. There are
more children, however, to be observed in Aghadez than in most Aheer
towns.

This journey of Dr. Barth's has considerably extended our acquaintance,
both with the geography and the political state of Asben or Aheer. We
see now that it is strictly a portion of the Sahara, intersected with
fertile valleys, that towards the south begin to assume quite a tropical
character. The inhabitants are various in origin and in name; but it is
difficult to describe their subdivisions with any accuracy. According to
the natives, there are only two great tribes--the Kailouees, which
division includes the Kailouees proper, the Kaltadak, and the Kalfadai;
and, secondly, the Kilgris, including the Kilgris proper, the Iteesan,
and the Ashraf. But, in questions of detail, numerous other names appear
which it is difficult to arrange under any proper head. The Kailouees
are, I think, of genuine Targhee origin, although, as I have already
mentioned, with a mixture of the Soudan races. The Kaltadak and the
Kalfadai seem to be identical with the borderers who attacked us on our
first entrance into this country. The Kilgris are located southward,
beyond Aghadez, along the Sakkatou route, and even far into Soudan,
where the influence of the Targhee races seems to be rapidly on the
increase.

According to some of the Tanelkum Sheikhs, the following are the names
of the principal Targhee tribes scattered over the desert of Sahara,
excluding the inhabitants of Aheer:--

1. Ouraghen family of Shafou.

2. Emanghasatan " of Hateetah.

3. Amana " of Jabour.

These are Ghat Tuaricks--Azghers.[9]

4. Aheethanaran, the tribe of Janet.

5. Hagar (Ahagar), pure Hagars and Maghatah, who stand to them somewhat
in the relation of the Kourglouss of Algiers to the Turks. They occupy
the tract between Ghat, Tuat, and Timbuctoo.

6. Sagamaram; located on the route from Aisou to Tuat.

7. Oulimad; tribes surrounding Timbuctoo in great numbers. In
conjunction with the Berebisheers, a tribe of Arabs, they shut up the
road between Aghadez and Timbuctoo by their predatory character.

8. Tanelkum, located in Fezzan.

[9] The three tribes of Ghat are called Azgher, in
contradiction to the Hagar. A Tanelkum explained the
meaning of this last word (which I have usually written
Haghar) to mean "wandering" or "wanderers." The word is
sometimes written Hogar.

We have been making inquiries of the Tanelkums about the population of
Ghat and its deserts. The Tanelkums say, that ten or twelve years ago
Khanouhen brought up about ten thousand maharees against the then
masters of Mourzuk, the Walad Suleiman, headed by Abd-el-Galeel. The ten
thousand maharees were the whole force and strength of the Azgher,
Khanouhen having called out every male; for every man of the Azgher is a
warrior. The Arabs, seeing the number of the Tuaricks, deemed it
expedient to make peace. From this circumstance, it would be supposed
that the Azgher may number from five to ten thousand families, nearly
all located west of the Soudan route, along the lines of the Ghadamez
and Tuat routes; where, it is said, there are fertile valleys, in which
dates and corn are cultivated. But at Ghat I could never learn anything
of these wadys. During my last visit I had no time, and the people there
had no inclination to give me information about this fertile portion of
the Azgher desert. On the former occasion, I learned from Haj Ahmed that
there was a running stream, on the banks of which corn was cultivated,
at about four days west of Ghat. This is probably the locality of Janet.
For myself, I do not believe the Azgher Tuaricks number more than two
thousand families.

Of the population of Aheer I have been able to learn nothing definite;
that is to say, nothing which I can absolutely depend upon. Some make it
reach above fifty thousand souls. There are, however, only forty towns,
exclusive of Aghadez; and about twenty places where people live in
tents. I wrote down a second list of them, with their directions, and
some guess at the number of male inhabitants. The son of the Tanelkum
Sheikh considers the Kailouee warriors to amount to about fourteen
thousand; which, indeed, will make the whole population above sixty
thousand. The accounts I have received, therefore, seem to be
sufficiently exact for general purposes.

The Tanelkum Sheikh says there are no other tribes of Tuaricks but those
enumerated above. The largest and most powerful tribe is that in the
neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, the Oulimad, answering, perhaps, to the
Sorghou of Caillie; and the smallest and weakest, the Tanelkum. But the
Tanelkums, if small in number, are great in pride, and consider
themselves a race of marabouts. They certainly make long prayers, and
several of them can write a little. The Turks treat the Tanelkums with
great consideration, and every year the Pasha of Mourzuk gives their
Sheikh a fine burnouse and other presents. They pay no impost, though
living in the Fezzan valleys. They are devoted to peaceful pursuits, and
are camel-drivers and small merchants. Formerly they were powerful; and
gave a sultan to the town of Ghat. About a century ago, their Sheikhs
and the greater part of the Tanelkums were destroyed by a razzia of the
Tibboos. They had then a town, which was situate in the Wady Esaiyen,
where there are still ruins to be seen, and which we passed near Berkat.

Of the Oulimad I know but little, except that they are exceedingly
turbulent, even ferocious, in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. They also
extend their razzias from Timbuctoo to the south-western frontiers of
the Asbenouee territories. A very short time ago they made a foray on
the Soudan route, between this and Damerghou. The Ghat Tuaricks I have
pretty well described.

The tribe of Janet has been mentioned frequently in this journal, from
the circumstance of their attempting to get up a razzia against the
expedition.

The Haghar are well known, even in Europe, for their freebooting
propensities. They lie between the Oulimad and the Azgher tribes
surrounding Tuat, and are some of them engaged in commerce.

The Sagamaram (or Sgamara) are an interesting small tribe, located in
the rocky valleys, along the line of the route from Aisou to Tuat. They
are mostly dressed in leathern clothes, and trade with Tuat, taking
their cloths and a fragrant herb called _debau_, which they exchange
against dates, &c. They likewise come to Aheer and Soudan, and fetch
slaves and goods for the souks of Tuat. They are a very pacific tribe,
not unlike the Tanelkums, but carrying on more commerce.

The Maghatah (or Maratah) are a thievish race, and have the vices of
their mothers, those peculiar to Soudan, as well as the more ferocious
traits of Berber bandits. Several of these people are in Janet.

In concluding these imperfect general observations on the state of Aheer
or Asben, I will only add that the country extends from north to south
eleven days' journey, or about two hundred and twenty miles (twenty
miles to the day); and east and west, eight days, or one hundred and
sixty miles. Aghadez, the largest town or city, stands, as has been
seen, alone; and may be considered as a kind of connecting link,
politically and otherwise, with the black countries to the south. I have
already endeavoured to explain the singular constitution of society in
this large but thinly-peopled tract. We observe there a curious
combination of the monarchical and patriarchal states, with a dash of
democracy into the bargain. Several times I have been reminded of
Homer's heroic age. The princes and the people seem alternately to
appear on the scene, exercising sovereign sway. The great Sultan is
elected from out of the country; but he is compelled to seek the
ratification of the chiefs, the elders, and the populace within. Then
there is the great chief of the Kailouees, whose town or camp is at
Asoudee; with Sultan Lousou, a most influential man; not to speak of the
great En-Noor himself, who has, perhaps, personally, the greatest
political weight of them all. Each of these great men is perpetually
surrounded by an army of retainers, dependants, and slaves; and public
affairs are transacted, partly according to some old routine, difficult
for a stranger to understand, partly after the fashion of "Arabian
Nights," kings meeting casually at the head of great armies in some
poetical wilderness. All these chieftains are both pastors and
merchants. One of their chief articles of traffic is, I am sorry to say,
their unfortunate fellow-creatures. They are the greatest slave-dealers
in the Sahara; two-thirds of the whole commerce is in the hands of the
Kailouees. The Sultans levy duties likewise on the caravans that pass
through their territory--duties which, to our cost, we know to be
neither regular nor moderate; but they have no right to apply taxation
to their quasi-subjects. Sometimes, when they are "hungry," they make a
razzia on a distant tribe, and find both slaves and cattle at their
disposal.

As might have been expected, the Kailouees--princes and people--are not
very refined in their ideas or luxurious in their habits. Their food
consists principally of the grains ghaseb and ghafouley, or guinea-corn.
They have also flocks and herds of sheep, camels, and bullocks; but the
bullocks are used chiefly for draft, and to carry goods from Aheer to
Soudan. Asses are exceedingly numerous, and likewise go to Soudan to
fetch guinea-corn. The population of Aheer, being scattered about in
small towns and villages, a few hours journey apart, these animals are
found very useful for the transport of the persons and effects of the
poor. The richer people have camels of the maharee species, like all the
Tuaricks; and in some respects it is the possession of this splendid
animal which distinguishes the Kailouee population from the people to
the south. For example, all their sports and pastimes would be exactly
Soudanese, were it not for the introduction of the maharee. On the
celebration of a wedding, the Kailouees ride round the groups of guests
on their silent-treading camels, which measure their movements to the
sound of a big rude drum. Such scenes would otherwise be perfectly
Nigritian. The men dance, flourishing their lances; and the slaves both
dance and sing. But I have already noted down all that I observed
remarkable in manners, and need not here repeat myself.

The great natural features of Asben, also, are doubtless by this time
impressed on the mind of the reader. They consist of a series of naked
granite rocks or mountains, some of them rising to upwards of three or
four thousand feet, ranging in every direction, with many isolated
peaks; and of picturesque valleys winding along between steep
precipices--threads of green, in which the tholukh and all species of
mimosa and acacia, with the souag and other trees, flourish in immense
growth, sometimes adorned by garlands and festoons of luxuriant
parasitical plants. Wild animals of various kinds range at will in
unfrequented places, but do not seem to excite much terror. There are
gardens and cornfields in the neighbourhood of some of the towns and
villages, the cultivation being kept up during the dry months by
irrigation; but only a few of the inhabitants, mostly slaves, cultivate
the soil. Besides the grains I have mentioned, a few vegetables,
principally onions, are produced. Date-palms bear fruit, which is good,
but will not keep.

I have already mentioned the chief manufactures of Aheer. They flourish
to the greatest extent in Aghadez; but Tintalous also has its artizans.
Working in leather was very popular during our stay, in consequence of
the presence of a noted charm-writer--bags being necessary. A good many
cunning blacksmiths ply their trade in various places.

CHAPTER V.

_Nov. 2d._--As this was the day fixed for our departure for Damerghou,
it may well be imagined that we looked forward to it with some anxiety.
Our delay in the neighbourhood of Tintalous had been unexpectedly long,
and at times even the idea had crossed our minds that we should never be
allowed to depart at all. Often we had desired to start alone; but had
been withheld by our own prudence, as well as by the representations of
our host, the venerable Sheikh of Tintalous. We had come by degrees
scarcely to believe in the possibility of an advance, and to consider
ourselves as the prisoners of circumstances in this advanced part of the
Sahara, touching on the very borders of Central Africa. Now, however, we
saw, by the bustle of preparation in the town, that, whether the
salt-caravan arrived or not, we were to press forward. All night the
town was in a bustle. We rose before sunrise, to complete what packing
we had to do, and saw Jupiter and the moon in positions nearly
resembling the Ottoman device. It was windy all yesterday and this
morning, with a considerable degree of cold.

To my astonishment when we had taken leave of Tintalous, we pitched tent
after half an hour's journey. This was done, however, for a twofold
reason: 1st, to see that all was right, and that we had left nothing
behind; and 2d, to buy ghaseb,--a supply having arrived from Asoudee
just in time for us to carry with us. Never was there a more picturesque
caravan. Ladies on bullocks, children and women on donkeys, warriors on
maharees, merchants on camels, the Sultan's horse harnessed going alone,
and following steadily; goats and their kids, sheep, foals of camels,
&c. running or straggling along! When we had pitched tent in the valley,
still in sight of Tintalous, En-Noor paid us a visit, and vouchsafed to
explain the reasons of our delay. His highness also related several
interesting things of Aghadez. The Sultan of that place, he says, is a
descendant of one of three brothers, Shereefs, who ruled in Africa over
the negro and other races. The eldest brother was Sultan of the West
(Morocco); the next was Sultan of Bornou; and the third and youngest was
Sultan of Aghadez in remote times. But how remote, it is impossible for
En-Noor to tell, and, of course, for me to relate. I was much amazed by
the predilection of En-Noor (who is not absolutely a white man) for
black people. He praised Overweg, because he was getting brown and
black. As for me, his highness was almost inclined to express his
disgust for the whiteness of my skin. Unfortunately, I happen to be what
the people call in England "very fair," except in those parts of my skin
which come in direct contact with the sun. I spent the day in compiling
a Haussa vocabulary, and hope to make considerable progress by the time
we arrive in Damerghou.

_3d._--This was my birthday, but of course it was unkept, and, indeed,
almost unthought of until it was past.

En-Noor again visited us, and drank with us coffee. His highness is
getting quite attached to my tent, and swears that when I return to my
country I must become a great man, and be made, like himself, a governor
or sultan of some country. Shall I say, Inshallah? I asked Yusuf to
explain why the Sultan thought so, and I could only learn that it was
the opinion which his highness had formed from my general conduct.

Being in a very happy humour to-day, the Sultan related many things of
his youth; his exploits, of course, which all men relate, and which I
shall likewise do, I imagine, if I live to be old. Showing us his
withered fleshless arms, and taking hold of his armlets, he observed:
"The time was when these armlets could not slip off. Now, see how easily
they come away." He then abused me for my leanness, and admired the
Taleb (Overweg), because he had more flesh on his bones. His highness
also stated that he and a single man went to Damerghou and back in
thirteen days, bringing a caravan of ghaseb. They never stopped on the
road, but travelled day and night. This garrulous gentleman also
declared he was the maker of his own fortunes--that he would not receive
anything from his father. When he was young, he would take no person's
advice; he did everything himself and from himself: but on the death of
his father he always kept to his post as Sheikh of Tintalous, and Sultan
of two towns in Soudan. He never moved this way or that way. Thus he has
remained to a good old age, respected and venerated by all, whilst all
his compeers have disappeared--not one remaining. He looks around for
the friends and companions of his youth, and finds not one--they are all
gone! Even now he allows no one in Asben to be greater than himself.
Even if a Sultan presumes to lord it over him, he (En-Noor) at once
knocks him down, and he is no longer Sultan in Asben. He remains,
however, friends with all if he can. He never takes notice of anything
which is not done under his own eyes; but when he sees a bad thing
committed, he then acts--killing the wicked people, if necessary.

The opinion of his highness of women does not flatter the ladies. He
recommended us never to listen to the advice of our wives; if we did, we
should be lost. The women were very well to fetch water, pound ghaseb,
and cook the supper, but for nothing else. He never, himself, paid any
attention to what they said; they were awful talkers. His highness here
touched on a tender point; for, as the reader remembers, he has been
beating one of his wives shamefully lately, because he pretended he was
alarmed at her continual talking--bewildered by the length of her
tongue! Proceeding in his confessions, the Sultan next related wonderful
stories of a wonderful maharee which he had in his youth. With this
maharee he rode to Aghadez in one day. With this maharee he chased, and
run down, and won gazelles, and then cooked and ate them, &c. Glorious
old fellow! Our Tanelkum Mousa, however, afterwards observed, that this
was _kitheb_, "a lie;" but that he knew a woman who could catch
gazelles. Many other things of equal interest his highness related, and
then left us in a good humour.

Two of our camels strayed this evening. En-Noor's people soon brought
them back. Our servants are very careless, and all our mishaps are a
profit to the Kailouees. We have still, however, two camels lost, and, I
imagine, shall not now recover them. But I was glad to hear the news
that the Sultan of Asoudee was successfully chastising all the people
who on the road attacked us. He had punished the people of Azaghar and
of Seloufeeat, even the son of Haj Bashaw; and the Haj himself, who was
said to be our friend, because he did not look after his son. The Sultan
acts quite according to my opinion, making all the principal people of
Seloufeeat and other places responsible for the conduct of the poorer
and lower classes. It is said that the Fadeea have fled; but others say
that they have been captured, and all our property which could be found
seized in the name of the Sultan of Asoudee. All the steps taken by this
Sultan have been directed, more or less, by En-Noor. He can muster, it
is said, two thousand warriors--for every able-bodied man fights in this
country. This expedition may be useful for future travellers from
Europe, but I fear we shall get back none of our property.

As a specimen of the political news strained through the brains of the
people of Tuat, I may mention that the Tuatee, recently arrived here,
reports that "the King of the Frenchmen has run away to England, and
carried with him all the money of the French," and, moreover, that "as
the French conquered Algiers by distributing large dollars to every one,
and hold it by the same means, the French now having no money, must soon
relinquish Algiers again to the hands of the Muslims."

_4th._--The weather is getting colder and colder. The last few days have
been quite chilly, with a strong wind blowing from the east. This
morning it was quite uncomfortable, the thermometer having fallen for
the first time to 60 deg. at sunset. We started early, and made seven hours
in a south-eastern direction. It was a nice ride; but as the day
advanced we got much sunburnt. After three hours we passed on the left
the little village Zouazgher. The caravan showed again very
picturesquely, the burdens tumbling off from the donkeys in the most
delightful confusion, and the girls squalling for help. I ate on the
road some Soudan dates, as they are called by the Arabs, and found them
pleasant--a sort of bitter sweet. The name of the tree and of the fruit
is, in Bornou, _bitu_. In Haussa the tree has two names, _aduwa_ and
_tinku_. Our course to day was up a fine valley, down which the water in
the rainy season runs from east to west. There was abundance of trees
and herbage. At this place, however, lions abound, and last night a
camel was eaten by them. We encamped opposite a mountain, rising pretty
high in sugar-loaf shape, called Adudai. Over the carcase of the camel
hovered a small flock of eagles.

A Bornouee fighi, called Mustapha, from the country Malamdi, west of
Kuka, tells us he has been six months at Aghadez. According to him, the
route from Aghadez to Timbuctoo is one month. It is open, and not
dangerous. En-Noor, indeed, promised to send any of us by that route if
we wished. There are few people on the route, and if you pay them a
little money you pass unmolested. This Bornouese fighi is not equal to
his brethren whom I saw in Tintalous. But I learnt from this itinerant
pedagogue the interesting fact, that there are a great number of persons
of his profession, all from Bornou, travelling about in Aheer. Light,
therefore, is springing up from the interior, and spreading to the coast
in an opposite direction to what it did in former times.

_5th._--Warmer weather greeted us this morning. We stay here to-day. The
place is called Tin-Tagannu, and is a large wady, full of herbage and
trees. It is inhabited by a few shepherds. This place is said to have
been the first of the inhabited localities in Aheer, although now
shepherds only drive their flocks there; so that spots of earth have
their seasons and fortunes in the Sahara as elsewhere. By the way, I
must continue to call this Sahara. Although there are periodic rains, we
are still without the influences of the Soudan climate, which begins at
Damerghou and Zinder. At the present season no country can be more
healthy than these Asbenouee valleys. I hear that nearly all the women,
as well as the men, have left Tintalous, so that the town is a perfect
desert. En-Noor has brought his wives and daughters, and our caravan is
like the migration of the whole of the town going in quest of a new
country.

A trap was set last night for the lion, but the king of beasts was too
wise to be caught. En-Noor borrowed a gun of us to make this trap, which
was of the following description. It was expected that the lion would
come again to the carcase of the camel; so a hedge of thorns was made
round the carcase with one opening, where was placed the muzzle of the
gun, with a large piece of meat tied to the trigger, so that when he
seized the meat he might fire off the deadly weapon against himself.

This is a fine place for doves, and Overweg shot half a dozen to-day.
Our Tanelkum, Mousa, informs us of the right way of tending camels. They
ought never to be tied, but allowed to roam at large. They require also
to be led through the best valleys, being so far helpless in finding a
good grazing-place for themselves. He showed us his camels, comparing
them with ours. And certainly ours, which had their legs tied and were
not guided to good herbage, could not bear comparison. But, of course,
the business, the support, the riches of Mousa, are his camels. They
occupy all his thoughts, and would appear, to a stranger, to be the end
of his existence.

_6th._--This morning at sunrise the thermometer was as low as 52 deg.
Fahrenheit. We shivered with cold.

Dr. Barth arrived early by way of Tintalous. He confirms the news that
the Sultans of Aghadez and Asoudee have completely chastised all those
tribes who stopped us on the road and levied black mail on us.

En-Noor paid us a visit in the morning. After shaking us all in a very
friendly manner by the hands, he expressed his regret that he could not
go with us now to Zinder. The country was not tranquil, and the people
would not consent to his going; but if we wished to proceed immediately
with his principal slave, Zangheema, he assured us we should go safely.
He then left us to reflect upon what we would do. We decided, without a
dissentient voice, that we could not venture to go with Zangheema, and
that we must wait for En-Noor, be the time ever so long. We forwarded
this decision to his highness, who seemed to receive it with
satisfaction. His wife sent us word, "To be sure not to go without her
husband;" a piece of advice from a lady we are anxious most religiously
to respect. Dr. Overweg made an application, through Daubala and Yusuf,
to go to the salt-mines of Bilma with the Kailouees. But either the
applicants betrayed the thing, or En-Noor was unwilling to grant
permission. Our friend, therefore, is disappointed of this most
interesting geological excursion.

We are to remove a little further to the west, to a valley more
convenient than this for pitching tents, and under some shelter. We
still hope we shall not be obliged to await the return of the
salt-caravan from Bilma (that is, a month, or forty days) before we
start. Probably, when good news comes from the camp in the west we shall
go on. It will be a sad trial for our patience to wait so long, after
having already dallied more than two months in Tintalous.

_7th._--The thermometer at sunrise stood at 51 deg.--very cold. There are no
signs yet of Zangheema's starting to Damerghou. The people, when sitting
over the fire in the evening, relate jocosely that the jackals, not
being able to come near the flame, and nevertheless feeling the cold
very much, hold up their fore-paws, in a sitting or squatting position,
in imitation of men, towards the fire, be they at ever so great a
distance, and so screw up their imaginations to the belief that they are
warming themselves. The language of gesticulation and signs, by the
movement of different parts of the body, is quite a study in this part
of the world. The most singular gesticulation, and yet the most
significant, is that by which a person begs a thing. He holds the object
in one hand (the left) before the owner, then gives the right hand and
arm a swing round, and at last places the right hand to his bosom--the
meaning of all which is, that he seeks to ascertain if the owner has any
other article of the same description as that which he holds in his left
hand, and whether he is willing to give it to him. When a Kailouee says
a thing is good, he puts the forefinger of his right hand into the
clasped palm of his left, and so, as he pronounces the thing good,
_nagari_, he turns his imprisoned finger round within the closed left
hand. When he says there are many persons, he clasps together the
fingers of his left hand, and forms a good English fist, holding the
hand thumb upwards. He then strikes, with the palm of his right hand,
the fist of his left hand, held in that particular position. This sign
also represents a more indelicate idea, and is used in the same way on
the coast.

The women, from the shepherdess to the princess, of Tintalous, are as
fond of the bustle as European dames; but the important difference is,
it is the natural bustle which they here delight to exhibit to the
admiring male population. If a woman be called to, going off to the well
for water, she does not turn round to see who is calling, but
immediately draws her frock tight round her form, and imparts to it a
most agitated and unnatural swinging motion, to the great satisfaction
of the admiring lookers-on. Thus we see how the coquettes of London and
Paris meet at opposite poles with these of the Sahara and Central
Africa.

Additional applications were made to En-Noor by my colleagues, to go
respectively to Bilma and to Zinder--Dr. Barth wishing to go on with
Zangheema--but without effect. The old Sheikh remained firm in his
refusals: Zangheema, however, was the first to start objections to
Barth's accompanying him. As to Overweg, we think he lost his
opportunity by not treating directly with En-Noor, instead of Hamma his
son-in-law. His highness will do nothing extra for us unless paid.

_8th._--We rose early, and found a large portion of the caravan destined
for Zinder already gone. This is very tiresome to see the people
starting with whom you were to have gone, and to know that you have
still thirty or forty days to wait; and as for expenses, living at
almost as dear a rate as in Tripoli. Our boat has gone with the caravan.

Hereabouts grow a great quantity of wild water-melons, _delaaah_. They
are very small and bitter, but the people, nevertheless, eat them
occasionally. If cultivated they would, of course, soon yield an
excellent supply. Barth represents the road between this and Aghadez as
very woody, and also that the country is everywhere mountainous. Baghzem
is not high, but is, nevertheless, a very large mountain, seen several
days' journey. The high plains without water are also covered with
trees. I hear, also, that the road between this and Damerghou is
exceedingly woody, and the trees of "the scratching or rending
description," like the tholukh. Aheer also abounds in senna.

Yusuf says that all the people of Soudan are red, with the exception of
the inhabitants of Tesaoua, Kanou, Kashna, and Maradee.

Barth represents Gouber as stronger than ever, and united in alliance
with Maradee against the Sultan of Sakkatou. He has written all the
towns. Gouber appears amongst the towns described by Leo Africanus.

_9th._--This morning En-Noor paid us a visit, to tell us to move after
him in the wady near, under the shade of the trees. His highness was
very polite and friendly, as he has now been for some time past.

The weather continues cold--thermometer, 49 deg. at sunrise in the air. This
cold weather ought to strengthen or restore our health. It certainly
would do us good, much good, if we could get meat and soups.

I sent on our boat yesterday to Zinder, with three of our servants,
together with some other heavy baggage. I was occupied to-day in
compiling the Haussa dictionary. Kashna is represented to be the
fountain of the Haussa language, the Florence of Soudan. Kanou is a
place of foreigners, and the language of the city must be much
corrupted. According to En-Noor, _Kal_, in the names _Kal_fadai,
_Kal_tadak, _Kil_gris, and _Kail_ouee, signifies _country_. There are to
be added to the zoology of this country the monkey and the _mohur_, or
fine large gazelle, as large as a deer, called in Haussa _maraia_.
We already find great differences in the pronunciation of the Haussa
language, but especially in the following letters:--_sh_ is confounded
with _ch_ or _tch_, _l_ with _r_, and _r_ with _l_, _o_ with _u_, &c.
Letters are also frequently unnecessarily doubled. These differences,
however, will never much affect the conversation, when the parties are
well agreed upon what subject they are conversing.

_10th._--This morning we are removing to the shade of the trees, near
En-Noor. Dr. Barth describes the Kilgris as very fine, tall men, and
much lighter in complexion than the Kailouees: they dress very simply,
having only the black turkadee on their heads, having neither a bakin
zakee under it, nor any white shash, or fotah, to wind upon it, in the
fashion of the Kailouees. They are, like all these tribes, very proud,
and nourish a deadly enmity towards the Kailouees, of whom they take
precedence in Aghadez. Barth gave away a black-lead pencil in Aghadez,
and afterwards everybody came to ask him for one. A person got one
pencil, and begged another, saying, "the two would last him his whole
life."

_11th._--The weather is increasingly cold in the morning; three-quarters
of an hour after sunrise the thermometer was 45 deg. in open air.

His highness vouchsafed this day to sleep in my tent, and yesterday he
did the Germans the honour of slaughtering lice in theirs. It is a grand
piece of etiquette in this country, that every man has the privilege of
murdering his own lice. If you pick a louse off a man's sleeve, you must
deliver it up instantly to him to be murdered, as his undoubted right
and privilege.

The Sultan of Aghadez has returned from his razzia against the people of
Seloufeeat, of Azgher, and the Kalfadai. Those whom he caught he
chastised: but most of the Fadeea fled. I register these varying
reports, because they show the state of uncertainty in which we were
always kept, now hearing one thing, now another. But the true state of
the case seems to be, that though the great Koku of Aghadez did take the
field for a razzia, the actual operations were conducted by the Sultan
of Asoudee. It must be remembered, however, that with their maharees
these desert-princes can march to and fro with surprising rapidity, and
that rumour finds it difficult to follow their footsteps. En-Noor now
thinks the country sufficiently tranquil to move on two days further. He
says he shall do so in the course of fifteen days.

_12th._--His highness paid me a visit as usual, and I gave him a box
containing a looking-glass, with a lid, on which is painted a
draught-board, for the wife of his highness, who recommended us not to
leave En-Noor, but continue with him until he carried us safely to
Zinder. His highness expressed great satisfaction for the present; and
when I told him to take care it was not broken, he observed: "I will
take especial care of this thing, because there is none like it in this
country, and it cannot be repaired." He told us also that his ladies
could play at draughts. I gave him, besides, a piece of green silk for a
shade for his eyes. He went off immediately, gratified with these little
presents.

The weather is very pleasant for the study of languages, but the days
are too short and the nights are too long. Nevertheless, I sleep nearly
all night this cold weather.

_13th._--Thermometer at sunrise in the open air was 41 deg. 30' Fahr., so
that the cold increases, this being the lowest which I have yet taken.
The Germans have had a deal of trouble with Mohammed of Tunis; they
would send him back, but there is no opportunity of doing so.

Maguzawa and Azna are the names of the pagan nations of Soudan, denoting
the same people, and not different races. The names answer to the word
_Kurdi_, in Bornou. These pagans say, in derision of the Muslims, when
it rains, "Allah must have a large belly," that so much water falls from
him.

En-Noor describes pagans of Maradee drinking large quantities of _gia_
(beer, or fermented liquor).

This evening a Gadamsee arrived at the tents, bringing two or three
slaves from Damerghou. He says the news of our arrival had already
reached Damerghou--that it was reported there that the Sultan of Aghadez
had given Barth a black tobe; not, by any means, a bad rumour. He sends
his slaves to Ghat from this place, and returns immediately to
Damerghou, taking letters for us to Zinder.

CHAPTER VI.

_Nov. 14th._--I wrote this morning, by the slaves going to Ghat, to Mr.
Bidwell and my wife. En-Noor paid us a visit in the afternoon, and was
exceedingly civil. He promises me letters for Sakkatou, and to forward
Overweg to Maradee.

Our servant shot a large vulture to-day. En-Noor having bad eyes,
ordered the eyes of this bird of prey to be scooped out for a medicine.
This is not the first time that I have heard of the various parts of
animals being eaten, or otherwise used, to cure or strengthen the
corresponding parts in human beings. It seems to be an idea natural to
people in a rude or semi-barbarous state.

En-Noor related a pretty anecdote of himself and his younger days in our
tent to-day. After saying, that formerly the Asbenouee people were the
only folks considered bad in these parts, he observed, that now he
himself and the Asbenouee were certainly much improved in their manners
and dispositions; "for," added he, "there were once four fighis
(charm-writers) who employed people to speak against me, and bring me
into disrepute. What did I do? I called them to me, gave them fine
presents of burnouses and a great supper, with an apartment in which to
pass the night. But when they were fast asleep I dug a large hole,
fetched them all out of the room, killed them, and covered them up in
the hole. Now, however," continued his highness, "we do not go so far as
this, but content ourselves with taking away an enemy's camels."

_15th._--Weather cold this morning. Thermometer at sunrise, 43 deg.. I hang
the thermometer on the tent-ropes, just outside, at about a foot from
the ground.

Hamma (son-in-law of En-Noor) returned this morning from the
salt-caravan. He marked on the sand that the caravan would be
thirty-five days before it returned; so, I imagine, we have still from
this time some thirty days to wait here. He left the caravan on its
entering the Hamadah, between this and Bilma.

TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF TESAOUA.

(_From Amankee's relation._)

1. Tesaoua: people 1400; residence of the governor. Two large wells and
one small one.

2. Harmaua: 500. A little water.

3. Ungua Korna: 400. One well, much water.

4. Haidaua: 500. One well, and much water.

5. Nuwala: 500 or 600. No water; but only half an hour from Haidaua.

6. Nachira: 800, scattered about in small groups. Much water.

7. Ungua-guka: 500. One well.

8. Ungua-tallai: 400. Much water.

9. Gindaua: 1000. Large wells; few trees.

10. Saulawa: 40 or 50.

The capital and nearly all this country is full of trees. Not a stone is
to be seen, and the soil is sandy.

The Sultan, or Governor of Tesaoua, is subject to the sovereign of
Maradee, who is the only independent black prince in this part of
Africa. The inhabitants are mixed, pagans and Muslims, but these last
are not bigoted.

En-Noor visited us this evening, and I asked him if he recollected
earthquakes in this country. The old Sheikh emphatically replied,
_Babo_, "There are none."

_16th._--Barth has picked up a good many words in Aghadez, mostly
correct.

_17th._--It was colder this morning, although yesterday was very
pleasant. Thermometer at sunrise, 41 deg..

It is expected that we shall still remain here thirty days, which time,
if divided half between Haussa and half between Bornouee, will help me
on in these languages, the principal of the interior of Africa. Mohammed
Tunisee is now the servant of Barth alone. Overweg has given him up.

Yesterday morning I gave Overweg the presents for the Sultan of Maradee,
to whom he intends to go on a mission, in the same way as Barth went to
Aghadez. The presents consist of a fine burnouse, a fine shasheeah (five
mahboubs), two pieces of coloured cotton cloth, two heads of white
sugar, knives, scissors, cinnamon, looking-glasses, beads, &c. I hope he
will not return without bringing back the treaty signed. He is also to
make some arrangement for the establishment of the missionaries in
Maradee.

To-day we had prayers in Overweg's tent. I read several short prayers
from the Church of England prayer-book, and also the Gospel and Epistle
for the Sunday.

_18th._--Yesterday evening it was cloudy, and the moon had, for several
hours, an immense elliptical ring round it--a common phenomenon in the
northern Sahara.

To-day Yusuf got up in a rage, and threw down his writing, because I
told him he did not take pains to obtain from the people the several
meanings of the words. This has been the case for most of the time we
have been occupied with the vocabulary. I have therefore left him to
himself, since he insulted me in this manner before the servants, and I
fear I cannot trust myself to go with him to Sakkatou. It is a great
inconvenience, but I must search for a kateb (writer) at Zinder. There
are many poor men of this profession in Bornou, and very faithful
people.

_19th._--His highness En-Noor continues to visit us. Yesterday I gave
him an English silver fourpenny piece, an English farthing, and a small
French silver coin, with all of which he was greatly delighted. He
summed up their value in wada; fifty wadas are an English penny. He
admired her majesty's face on the silver fourpence; but his shadow, the
man who generally comes with him, said,--"Oh, no, the face of the woman
for a Sultan is not good. _This_ is good," pointing to the head of Louis
Philippe.

The news came yesterday evening that a razzia had just been made on
Tintaghoda, the assailants carrying away everything before them, and the
inhabitants of the town fleeing to the mountains. This razzia was made
by the people whom the Sultan of Aghadez has lately punished for the
depredations committed on us and other caravans on the road. When this
took place there were a few people at Tintalous, who, on hearing the
news, came off immediately to us after En-Noor, so that now there does
not remain a single inhabitant in the village. The people of the razzia
were much disappointed at finding no more camels, all those of the
villages hereabouts, and indeed through all Aheer, being gone to fetch
salt from Bilma. They wished to make up the number of camels which the
Sultan of Aghadez took away from them. Of course, when the salt-caravan
returns, an effort will be made to avenge this insult on the holy city
of Aheer--this profanation of the abode of marabouts! It is singular,
nevertheless, that only a year ago some neighbouring tribes, thinking
these holy men had too much wealth, carried off a large number of their
camels. This is the much-vaunted place amongst the credulous Moorish
merchants of the coast, where theft and robbery are unknown!

_21st._--A foggy _November_ morning! But this change of the atmosphere
is very rare, and soon passes away. It is amazing how steady the seasons
are, and how they roll, each bringing its accustomed weather and tunes.

Yesterday I began my Bornou studies, not knowing whether I shall go
first to Bornou or Soudan. I intend, if my health be preserved, to make
a dictionary of the Bornou and Soudan languages together, for the sake
of commerce and general information. I hope Government will print it, or
if not Government, the Philological Society.

_Abizgen_ is a fruit which abounds in Aheer. It is half the size of
small currants, and has not a disagreeable taste--a sort of bitter-sweet
clammy taste. This fruit may be called Aheer currants.

In the neighbourhood of our encampment have been seen gazelles,
ostriches, and monkeys, in considerable numbers.

_22d._--En-Noor went off yesterday morning early, to visit a great
marabout in the neighbourhood. This will enable us to apply ourselves
closely to the languages, all day long. Occupied as I am with Soudanese
and Bornouese, all the days fly away swifter than arrows shot by the
most expert archers. En-Noor is expected to return in the course of four
or five days. We have now all the village of Tintalous with us. It is
Tintalous encamped out in the valley.

_23d._--The orient sky flamed this morning with a pure yellow flame,
amidst a somewhat murky atmosphere.

Most of the people have a fire all night. In the morning they cower over
it like inhabitants of the poles. Of course we as well as they, having
been baked in the summer's sun, now feel the cold most acutely.

There is a species of people scattered through Soudan which correspond
to our gipsies, called Maguzawa (sing. Bamaguzai). These are
essentially a merry, care-nothing people, always half tipsy, and always
full of fun. They, however, work a little in agriculture; differing from
our gipsies, who are little more than itinerant tinkers. A boy was shown
to me to-day, whom his parents had christened _Butu_, "worthless." It is
related that his mother had many children before him, all of whom died,
and when he came into the world the people or neighbours all cried,
"_Butu! Butu!_" i.e. "He will come to nothing." Then, it is added, "God
seeing the people gave him a bad name, determined in compassion to
preserve his life, and so his life was preserved to this day."

En-Noor returned this evening from his visit to the marabout.--It is my
intention to send home fifty thousand African words for this expedition.
What future expeditions may do, if my life be spared, I cannot tell. I
speak for this. I imagine I have already sent to the Foreign Office six
thousand. I shall have five thousand, I hope, by the time I get to
Zinder--three of Soudanese, and two of Bornouese. I must try to get a
few words of the Aghadez language. These I can get, probably, at
Sakkatou. I must have another writer, or fighi. My present Bornouese
fighi is a very poor fellow.

_24th._--The Sunday soon came again, with the study of languages. Now
the time of our waiting here does not appear to be long enough. I have a
commercial dictionary to make.

En-Noor came to us after his return from his visit to his marabout
friend. He says of the late razzia at Tintaghoda, that the marabouts of
that town brought it all upon themselves, being the first to begin to
countenance attacks upon caravans (that is, ours). He does not pity
them; he does not care for them; and, he added, "They have now lost all
their reputation amongst the people." The fact is, when we came the
marabouts did not know what course to take, whether to attack us or to
receive us; so they chose the former, in their blinded judgment, and
brought all this evil upon their heads.

The Fadeea, or Kalfadai, have decamped with their booty and their
families to the Hagar, beyond the reach of recapture or revenge.

A scorpion was found in my tent to-day, running across the sandy floor.
We look upon them now as nearly harmless, whilst the cold weather has
deprived them of all force.

_25th._--Occupied with the languages. Time passes quickly.

_26th._--Began the Bornou grammar.

_27th._--A visit from En-Noor. He put on one of my gloves, and was much
amused with it. He held out his hand, and put it on the face of his
courtiers--showing fight. It was very white, which gave him occasion to
pass to my skin, and pity my being so white. I made several useful
remarks on Haussa grammar, and begin to understand the genius of the
language.

A caravan of ghaseb has arrived from Damerghou, by which we learn that
the Sfaxee and Fezzan merchants are arrived in that country. We have
been trying to buy ghaseb of the people, or of En-Noor; but it appears
we were too late, for it is said to be all gone. The dollars are worth
only 1750 wadas here, whilst in Kanou they pass for 2500. Every article
is depreciated in value in Aheer, because food is scarce. We have,
however, managed to purchase a bullock--a great beast.

_28th._--I did not feel so well after the meat-eating; we have had so
little of it, and so seldom, that a little extra quite upsets me, and
the gnawing it makes all my teeth bleed. Thermometer, 50 deg.. The weather
has changed to mistiness, haziness. It is now reported that we still
remain here twenty-five days longer, the caravan arriving only in twenty
days, and five being allowed to rest the camels. So we have time enough
for the Haussa and Bornou languages. I wish to master the grammar of
each, so as to superintend some translation of the Scriptures.

_29th._--The weather is still hazy, and warmer; but whilst it is warmer
in the morning it is cooler in the mid-day, on account of the clouds and
haze. Half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 56 deg..

En-Noor says we shall start in seventeen days, but ten days more or less
for these people are nothing. Our courier for the money has just been
gone thirty-three days. If, happily, he arrive to day, he will save a
week of the Shantah from Mourzuk to Tripoli. If we remain here now
twenty-five days, and are thirty-five days more before we arrive at
Zinder, that will be sixty days. I shall then have only twenty days more
to wait till the expiration of the four months, when I may expect the
courier to return. Thus I hope to have the money to pay the Sfaxee
before I go to Sakkatou. But, alas! such calculations are extremely
uncertain, and we cannot tell what a day may bring forth. For our
support and safety we must repose firmly in the goodness of an Almighty
Providence.

_Nov. 30th to Dec. 3d._--The weather has been mild these last few days;
this morning, half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 51 deg..

En-Noor has been to pay a visit to the Sultan of Asoudee, meeting him at
some neighbouring village. There was a council respecting the affairs of
the tribe of the Iteesan, who are fighting amongst themselves; but no
news has transpired since his return. The old sheikh is in good health
and spirits, which he attributes partly to drinking my coffee twice and
thrice a-day. He says we shall leave here in the course of twelve days.

Senna is grown, or rather collected, in all the districts of Aheer; but
it is cheap now, and does not fetch the price in Tripoli which it
formerly did; many other as suitable purgatives being found in Europe, I
suppose. Senna is, besides, procured from the district of the Tibboos of
Bilma, and some of this is still sent to Tripoli. Bornou has also much
senna, but it does not pay the expense of forwarding it to Tripoli.

The relations of man and wife in Aheer are curious, if not
extraordinary. A woman never leaves the home of her father! When a man
marries a woman, he remains with her a few weeks, and then, if he will
not take up his residence in the town or village of his wife, he must
return to his own place without her. When a man sees a woman who pleases
him, he offers the parents a price for her--say, four camels. If the
parents agree that the price is adequate to the charms or the rank of
their daughter, the bargain is concluded. These four camels remain
always the property of the wife, with which she supports herself,
sending them to Soudan or to Bilma, fetching ghaseb or salt. Many of the
women have a large property obtained in this way. When their husbands
visit them, they give them something to eat, and they remain a few days
or weeks; and again depart to their own native towns, leaving the wife
with her property, and any chance lover. But the men marry two or three
wives, and so are constantly in motion, first going to visit one wife
and then another. Thus the male population of this country is kept in a
continually restless state of activity--roaming about here and there,
marrying another and another wife, if their means will permit them. The
women, of course, left in this way, and unrestrained by any high moral
motives, take as many lovers as they dare, or can secretly dispose of.
It appears that En-Noor always disapproved of this strange system, and
swore he would never marry a wife, because he should be obliged to go to
another town to reside there, and so be exposed to having an inferior
position, the authorities of the town of his wife pretending to exercise
jurisdiction over him. All his women have ever been slaves. His highness
is now living amidst his daughters and their children--the men who
married them being all away in their own native countries. A daughter of
En-Noor costs ten camels, and this is considered a very high price for a
woman. With two or three camels, a woman manages to support herself and
children. If the husbands of En-Noor's daughters be ever so poor, he
never gives them anything but a little food. They must come and reside
in his town. His highness passes all his evenings amidst this circle of
women--his female slaves, his daughters, and granddaughters.

The population of Gouber and Maradee together may be about 1500.

_Maradee_, capital of Maradee, and residence of the Siriki.

_Jinubakai_ is the second division of the country, inhabited wholly by
the pagans or gia-drinkers (beer-drinkers); not, therefore, Mahometans.

_Gouber_ (Gubar), is the name of the country, of which the capital and
residence of the sultan is _Chibri_. This country consists of a large
city (Chibri), and several small villages, some fifty or sixty; two are
here mentioned, Gomer and Sanna.

These two countries of Gouber and Maradee are now in alliance against
the Sultan of Sakkatou, i.e. of the Fellatahs, and mutually inflict
razzias upon one another. Tesaoua is in close connexion with these
ancient Kohlan countries, and is, indeed, a province of Maradee. There
are mixed up with the population a number of people, emigrants from
Aheer, called Buzai; but these Aheer Tuaricks have lost both their
language and nationality, retaining merely the name, to denote their
origin. So, in all probability, were more people and of other countries
to emigrate to Soudan, they would soon become Soudanee, and lose their
nationality. In these countries of Soudan above-mentioned, Mahommedanism
has been but lately professed. But the great distinguishing mark between
paganism and Mahommedanism appears to be the drinking or not drinking
gia, the latter being the people who of course abstain from this
intoxicating beverage.

Overweg says, that within three-quarters of an hour's walk are found
hereabout granite, sandstone, and basalt, a variety of stones somewhat
remarkable.

The study of _sau_, "footsteps" of men and animals, is quite a science
in this part of the world. The Fezzanee are reckoned the most expert in
this knowledge; they are said to be able to distinguish the footsteps of
people when printed upon the trunk of a palm, the print-step being made
by dipping the feet in water! As to animals, the people observe near the
neighbouring rocks the sau of the lion--a very deep, heavy impression of
his five claws, of the monkey, the hare, the gazelle, the fox, the
jackal, the hyaena, the mouse, &c. &c. Indeed, we appear to be
surrounded with animals; and in the morning I found the sau of the dog,
the cat, the hare, and the mouse, on the sandy floor of my tent. It is
my intention, before I leave Africa, to draw the forms of the footsteps
of the more remarkable animals. _Inshallah!_

_4th._--Visit from his highness the Sheikh every day. He is now kind
enough to send me every morning--at the suggestion of his principal
wife--a small can of milk, which, besides the value of the milk itself,
saves my sugar, enabling me to drink tea and coffee without sweetening.
This evening the _shara_ was brought of the arrival of couriers from the
salt-caravan, to say it was near. Like the Arabs, for this shara or
news, or first advice of the coming of something good or agreeable, the
Kailouees ask some present. We gave a little bit of sugar to the slave
who brought the welcome intelligence.

_Dec. 5th to 9th._--I was occupied with vocabulary of Haussa and Bornou.
Weather mild and misty, but a little cold this morning; thermometer, at
three-quarters of an hour after sunrise, 43 deg..

Nearly all the salt-caravan has arrived, and proceeded in advance,
coming in small detachments. They rendezvous in a fine wady full of
herbage, with water higher up. We are expected to leave in a few days,
three or four at most. Nothing seems now to detain En-Noor. But the
Fadeea have returned from the Hagar, finding themselves not pursued.
They very naturally prefer their own fine valley in Asben to the stony,
desert wilds of Hagars. I suppose a razzia will be executed against
them, for the restoration of the camels of Tintaghoda, on the return of
the salt-caravan from Soudan.

En-Noor gives a tremendously unfavourable account of the Oulimad, who
occupy the desert of Sahara between Aghadez and Timbuctoo, and keep the
road there shut against caravans. He says, they would sleep in our tents
in the day, eat and drink with us; but in the night they would carry
away the tent, and make themselves clothing with it. In fact, En-Noor
considers them the veriest barbarians in this region of Africa. There
may be a little exaggeration in this, and the Oulimad may not be worse
than the Hagars of Ghemama, or even than some of his own people. The
Kailouees do not hunt, nor do they cultivate the soil; so that this
country abounds with animals. Some of the country is extremely wild and
rocky, and affords many a retired den for the lions, who descend from
the rocks and prowl abroad for prey in great numbers. Their footmarks
frequently cover the length and breadth of the wadys. Barth himself saw
(very fortunately, for it is a sight seen by very few persons indeed) as
many as five together. Monkeys also abound in great numbers. I related
to En-Noor the anecdote, as a joke, of the monkey shaving the cat in
Paris; but this he took seriously, for he observed, "That is nothing; I
have seen the monkeys crack lice just like men." It is always a
difficult matter to translate a joke to these people. Overweg has been
out these last two days hunting for ostrich eggs, in the places which
these birds frequent. He saw their footprints, dung, feathers, &c., and
two specimens, but found no eggs. It appears this is a most difficult
bird to catch.

En-Noor continues to be very friendly. I get milk now every morning, for
which I pay sugar and coffee. His highness and his people went out
yesterday to dig a well, about two hours distant. All the water in this
place is exhausted. It appears to be merely a deposit of rain-water
under the sand, at a depth of from four or five to eight feet. It
becomes, as in this case, entirely exhausted before the commencement of
the next rains; but of course there are some springs, and many wells
which are not dried up during the whole year.

N.B.--If I remain a month at Zinder, I must make a little excursion
amongst the Bornou villages and see the rustic life of the people; but I
fear it will be a bad place to hear the pure Bornouese language. I still
hope to go off early to Sakkatou, and finish quickly with Soudan. In
these matters the Germans are better off than I am, and have not to wait
for money.[10]

[10] Nearly the whole of this long account of a residence in
Aheer consists in the journals of Mr. Richardson of
disjointed fragments, jotted down almost without any
connexion. This was necessarily the case. Few incidents,
save an occasional visit from thieves, or a dispute with
that strange old gentleman, Sultan En-Noor, diversified
this period. However, the simple commonplace book of a
traveller in a totally new country can never be without its
interest. No doubt Mr. Richardson would have attempted, had
he survived, to throw all these observations into a
picture; but any attempt to do so on my part would have
probably resulted in the omission of characteristic traits,
and the introduction of extraneous ideas. The following
chapters appear to me to increase in interest, page by
page.--ED.

CHAPTER VII.

_Dec. 10th._--I rose before the sunrise; the coldest morning we have
had; thermometer at half-an-hour after sunrise, 38 deg..

It is reported that we leave here to-morrow, or the day following. There
is arrived from Aghadez the first man of that city after the sultan,
called Amagai. He is come here respecting the affairs of the Fadeea.
En-Noor also asked to-day for a list of all the things taken by force
from us on the frontiers. It appears the Sultan of Aghadez had captured
the Sheikh of the Fadeea, or some one sheikh, and allowed him to go out
of prison on the promise that he would restore all the things taken from
us--but not to us; so these Sultans and Sheikhs of Aheer will probably
get all these things back, and divide the spoil. But, nevertheless, it
is better that the people in authority should have them, than that they
should remain in the possession of the robbers, the lawless plundering
tribes of the frontier. Probably these people will be more cautious how
they plunder another caravan of Christians. It will always be a
satisfaction to us that the robbers were made to disgorge their booty. I
have also heard that a small camel was brought in exchange for my large
lost one; and En-Noor sent it back, ordering them to restore the large
camel of the boat. My camel has been to fetch salt from Bilma.

The children call Tesaoua, and the countries thereabout, Haussa, and say
it is near, and that they go on donkeys. From this it is certain this
portion of Soudan still has the ancient name of Haussa. Afaou is merely
the Bornou name for Haussa, there being no place or district of that
name. All these countries have most of them two names, or two
pronunciations of the same name; one by the natives, and one by the
Moorish merchants and other strangers. Thus the village of En-Noor is
called by strangers Tintalous, and by the people themselves Chintullus.
Travellers had better adhere to the name the place has amongst the
strangers and foreign merchants, otherwise their narrative might be
questioned by the people abroad, who do not know the native name.
Maradee has its native name of Mariadi, but if you were to mention this
name in Mourzuk and Tripoli none would know the country of which you
were speaking. In fact, it is just the same as calling Florence Firenza,
when speaking to persons who have not travelled in Tuscany, or who are
unacquainted with Italian. I continue much occupied with the Bornouese
and Haussa languages, and am now collecting the names of insects and
animals. This is extremely difficult, as for many of the animals of
Soudan there are no Arabic names.

I measured an ant-track, and found it 125 feet. The ants were fetching
the cottony dried blossom of a withered plant, and were amazingly busy.
The tracks did not wind much. I noticed, also, in my walk, the footmarks
of hares and many other animals. This country is full of live things.

_11th._--I rose before sunrise; this is the coldest morning I have yet
had, according to the thermometer, which was only two degrees above the
freezing point (34 deg.).

A circular letter arrived to-day from Aghadez, addressed to all the
Tuaricks, written by Mustapha Bey of Mourzuk, recommending them to
render us all necessary protection. It is dated back two months.
Probably this letter was written on account of the unfavourable
intelligence which reached Mourzuk respecting us. To-morrow, please God,
we start for Soudan.

_12th._--Thank God! we left our encampment of Chintagawna this morning.
And oh, most gracious God! give us a prosperous journey, and may we be
useful to ourselves and our fellow-creatures.

We started about eleven o'clock, and went on about three hours and
a-half. The day was very cool; the thermometer in the morning, at
sunrise, being only three degrees above the freezing-point. We expect to
see the water freeze on the high plains through which we are about to
pass, before arriving at Damerghou. Our encampment is a pleasant wady,
under a conical-formed rock of considerable elevation, perhaps 1500
feet. We are also in a high situation, some 1000 or more feet above the
level of the sea. There is near this rock a lower one of an oblong form,
its sides fluted with pillars; these columnar masses are basalt. Dr.
Overweg examined the rocks, and found the outer crust a new species of
rock, a sort of trachite or brachite; and the interior a sort of basalt,
or volcanic substance. The large rock is also of the same formation. Dr.
Barth ascended the large rock.

I am now told that I made a great mistake about the wording of the
circular letter of Mustapha Bey. This letter begins by thanking the
Tuaricks of Aheer for exterminating the Walad Suleiman! It then hints
broadly at the necessity for the Turks in Mourzuk and the Tuaricks of
Aheer being friends; and to maintain this friendship one important
condition is required--that they, the Tuaricks of Aheer, shall protect
all the merchants or other travellers passing through their country, and
coming from Mourzuk. In the event of their committing a bad action, the
Bey says he may be compelled to make reprisals; so it is quite clear the
letter is written entirely on our account, and perhaps is a preliminary
measure to making reprisals. _Nous verrons._ This letter is only
addressed to the people of Aheer.

If water be the sustaining and even the generative force of vegetation
in the desert, it is also the destruction of trees and herbage; for
along the line of the current of the wady are seen immense numbers of
dead and overthrown trees, torn from their roots by the force of the
water in the rainy season. En-Noor paid me a visit this afternoon, and
took a nap in my tent.

_13th._--We rose early, but did not start till about nine o'clock. This
was the coldest day we have yet experienced: the heavens were overcast
with clouds. We came five hours; our course irregular, but always
south-east; the track through wadys filled with the usual trees of the
tholukh species. Yesterday were seen numbers of large butterflies, but
to-day, on account of the cold, few. Flies innumerable follow the
caravan. The rocks were, as yesterday, many conic-formed, and others
rounded or appearing in ranges, like huge haycocks: granite, sandstone,
and trachite. We have in the distance before us, a peculiarly shaped
rock of considerable height, called _Mari_, in the midst of a range. We
are encamped in the bed of an immense broad valley, and camels are
feeding about in considerable numbers. The salt-caravan is very near. We
are not yet in the regular caravan route, _via_ Asoudee, but expect to
reach it after to-morrow. En-Noor has with him as a guest the principal
man of Aghadez, before mentioned. This man was once a slave, but by his
address has risen thus high, as the slaves frequently do in Turkey: so
widely do similar manners prevail. Many slaves in Soudan rise to the
highest consequence.

The _shonshona_ (or practice of scarifying the face or neck) prevails
everywhere in Bornou, Soudan, and all this part of Africa; the Tuaricks
and Fellatahs being the only people who abstain from this barbarous
practice. Each device of scarifying denotes the peculiar nation of the
blacks. I have now got three sketches of faces thus disfigured, and
shall get as many as I can.

The Mahommedans of the coast usually teach that this way of marking the
body is a sin, but nevertheless the black Muslims will not abandon the
peculiarities of their nation.

_14th._--Started early, but made only two hours and a-quarter, through
the expansive valleys of yesterday. Here we found the salt-caravan,
there being in this place abundance of room, herbage, and a large well,
all necessary for such an assembly of people and beasts. On the road we
put up a covey of partridges, and a splendid solitary bird, the _hobara_
of Soudan. Footprints of the hares and of the gazelle were observed _en
route_.

By this opportunity we have got a few dates from Bilma; but they are
very poor, some of them little better than dried wood. The salt-caravan
has nothing attractive. The salt is all tied up in small bales or
bundles, the outward wrapper being matting or platting of strips of the
leaves of the doom-palm, called by the people _kabba_. Our caravan
resembles the march of a wandering tribe, there being camels, sheep,
oxen, asses, dogs, with all the paraphernalia of tents, cooking
utensils, &c. Some of the animals are laden, some unladen, playing,
running, and skipping about. Then come the human animals, men, women,
and children of every age. Our own caravan is mostly composed of the
household and slaves of En-Noor, with two or three strangers. But now
all changes to the salt-caravan, and we shall probably be soon absorbed
in it.

Yesterday morning I observed the dawn of day, and witnessed a degree of
redness and red clouds, or, more poetically, rosy-tinted clouds, which I
never before observed in all the Sahara. Probably now the sky will
change to a colouring more like England. Sunset and sunrise in the
Sahara are essentially different from those of England, the colours in
the desert being exceedingly light and bright; and often in the summer
time, at daybreak, there is a full, blazing sun in the course of three
quarters of an hour; so that, that rich colouring of the summer's dawn
in England is never here observed.

I visited the salt-caravan, or that portion of it which belongs to
En-Noor. The salt is prepared in Bilma, by the Tibboos, in three
different manners. There is, first, the _canto_, a kind of pillar or
pedestal, about 16 inches high, and 3 or 4 broad in its widest part. As
to weight, 10 of these are a good camel-load, 8 a load for a small
camel, and 6 for a weak camel. Then there are two cakes, one of refined
salt and the other coarse. These coarse cakes are about 5 inches in
diameter, and the refined ones 7 inches, the former being about 3lbs.
and the latter 5lbs. in weight. When a caravan of Tuaricks arrive at
Bilma, they find the salt all ready for them, and they pay a barter for
it in this way,--a zekka of ghaseb is exchanged against twenty of the
coarse cakes; a zekka for six of the refined cakes, and three zekkas of
ghaseb for two of the pillars. Ghaseb appears to be the only staple
thing which the Tibboos receive for their salt; they may also take now
and then turkadias, or black turbans, and on the other side the Tuaricks
bring a few dates with them: the fruit, even those of the best quality,
are not very good or fine. This commerce of barter is managed almost
solely by the women: the men remain in their houses, whilst the women go
to the salt-pits or lakes, and transact this important business; but the
men do not run away, as is commonly reported. At least, so say the
Tuaricks. The supply of salt is inexhaustible. It is, probably, on
account of the weight of the salt, and the fatigue of the camels which
carry it, with the distance, that this commerce is not very profitable
to the Tuaricks; but this can only be ascertained in the markets of
Kanou, and other large cities of Soudan. There are only six months to
the rainy season, so I have just time to go to Sakkatou and return,
without waiting long at any of the intermediate places between Sakkatou
and Kuka.

Our encampment is under some rocks, where are seen the dens of lions. At
the mouth of these caves or holes are bones of animals and the dung of
the lions.

_15th._--I rose early, but we did not start till two hours after
sunrise. The caravan was a considerable time in loading. We have only
with us En-Noor's detachment of the salt-caravan, about 130 camels. We
may be quicker in our movements to-morrow. The first morning of starting
is always thus slow. We came to-day five hours: passed the picturesque
rock Mari, like a camel couchant, and entered after three hours the
Asoudee route, or the direct caravan route from Ghat to Damerghou,
through Aheer. Another detachment of the salt-caravan passed or crossed
us, and took another route to the east. Our course was always
southwards, now S.E. now S.W., through wadys filled with trees, mostly
tholukh and its varieties; the rocks were all granite. Aheer appears to
be a region essentially of granite, although here and there are volcanic
cones striking up, composed of basalt, or a variety of this stone. The
weather was very cloudy and cold, only a little warm in the middle of
the day. We have not come to water or wells for three days, because our
journeys are very short. To-day I saw, for the first time, the indigo
plant--_neela_ in Arabic, and _bala_ in Soudanese. I was glad to make
its acquaintance. It grows amongst the other herbage, and may be easily
confounded with it as a common herb. It is now in seed, the pods being
small and very hard. This is one of the products capable of working the
regeneration of Africa, if Africa is to be civilised by legitimate
commerce.

En-Noor asked to-day if, on entering Constantinople, we English made
presents. I told him very positively, "No;" but, on the contrary,
everything which the English demanded of the Sultan of the Turks he did
for us; and because the Sultan was weak, England was obliged to protect
him against the encroachments of the other Christian nations.

I was much surprised to hear to-day that En-Noor begged a black burnouse
from Barth. The old Sheikh is a Tuarick every inch of him. Nevertheless,
it is too bad to beg the things which we wear to protect us from the
cold and the heat. Barth, I believe, has not yet made the Sheikh a
present, and he is coming Hateetah over my worthy friend. Overweg has
given the Sheikh a cloth jacket, which he could ill spare. I feel most
determinedly disposed to give nothing more; but in justice I have to
add, that his highness sends regularly the milk in the morning, that he
gave me a piece of gour-nut on the road, and that he sent me a few dates
at my request! These are great things for Tuaricks; so, "patience."

_16th._--I rose at daylight; the cold was moderate, morning foggy as
yesterday. People say we shall be only nine days from this going to
Damerghou, but I will give them twelve. All the old men in this country
apply to the Taleb for medicine to restore their powers. They very
unwillingly relinquish the exercise of the functions which give them
most delight; but nature is stronger than all things, and they must
submit to its inevitable course. In a country like Africa, where woman
is only thought of for one purpose, it chagrins these old fellows to see
all their nice plump slave-girls about them, and to find themselves past
and gone, so far as this state of existence is concerned. En-Noor and
Hateetah both made this kind of application to the Taleb. When I was
alone in my former journey in the desert, I had also the same kind of
experience.

We came two hours to-day to the well of Anfesas, before the mountain of
Baghzem. Our course was through valleys and rocks, as yesterday, and,
indeed, always in this country; for there is very little variation in
the landscape. Baghzem, instead of being the high mountain pictured to
me by the Ghadamsee merchants, is, at this view of it, only a low range.
Two little things observed to-day were, first, a "traveller's sharpening
stone," on which every person passing by sharpened his dagger or his
sword: next, were heaps of sand scraped together, and sticks or stalks
of herbage stuck on the top, as frail marks of the route, corresponding
to the heaps of stone which mark in line the routes of the Sahara. There
was also a mosque formed of boughs of trees; that is, a low wall of the
groundplan of a mosque made of boughs of trees, like the walls of stone
in other places. The trees were as before, always those full of thorns,
like the tholukh; many of the species bearing what is called the date of
this country. No animals of game were seen, except a solitary hare; but
there were marks of the foot of the mohur, or large gazelle.

The lading of the camels in the morning takes always an hour and a-half:
we have few people, compared with the number of beasts of burden.

However, under the leadership of En-Noor, who has now decked himself in
a fine yellow burnouse, a sort of ensign of authority, the caravan
marches in great order and tranquillity.

The inhabitants of Damerghou are said to be a mixture of Kohlans and
Tuaricks; the latter, however, receding into the interior. But if the
Tuaricks have dispossessed the Kohlans, they have almost become Kohlans
themselves, forgetting their own language and their own customs and
manners. This would naturally result from their habit of taking female
slaves from Soudan. Women, of course, always teach their children their
own language. In this way the population becomes in a few years
amalgamated, the blacks with Tuaricks.

_17th._--We stopped here all day, occupied with Bornouese. The place is
pleasant enough, there being a good well of water. A little temporary
village stands near, composed of the women and children belonging to the
salt-caravan.

_18th._--We halted again another day. After this rest of three days for
the camels, we are to go on quicker. Overweg paid a visit to the
temporary village, principally to see the women, taking with him the
Malem Ibrahim. He was pleasantly received, and notes the fact as the
first specimen of Soudan hospitality. I also made an excursion of an
hour to a neighbouring eminence, where I had a view from the top of a
quartz rock of the surrounding landscape of stony hills and valleys. On
the east and west were ranges and groups of mountains; on the north-east
and towards Bilma, and on the south-west round the mountain of Baghzem,
the country appeared open. North and south were rocks. In the direction
of our route (south-east) the rocks seem scattered and at wide
distances, so I expect we shall soon bid farewell to the mountains of
Aheer. The celebrated mount of Baghzem is a mighty mass of rock, not
high, but apparently of immense breadth. The town of Baghzem is on the
western side, and out of our route.

I had a little clandestine transaction with Madame En-Noor to-day. She
sent me cheese and milk, and I sent her a ring. The slaves brought the
cheese stealthily: so, I suppose, the Sultan was not to know of it. But
they say that all the goats belong to the women, and, consequently, the
milk and cheese; but the camels to the men; some women, however, have
camels. There is a sort of division of male and female property in this
country.

CHAPTER VIII.

_Dec. 19th._--We started early, and journeyed on eight hours and
a-half--the best day we have had since leaving Tintalous. Our course
still towards that immense block of mountain, the celebrated Baghzem. We
are now encamped along its side. We crossed a large wady with
ancient-looking trees, having antiquity, in fact, stamped on their
trunks, all of the tholukh species. The sand of this desert is covered
with the footsteps or marks of the gazelle and hare; but we saw only one
gazelle and one hare. The gazelle was followed by a stupid mongrel-bred
dog; it jumped high in the air, and was soon out of sight. The Kailouees
are no huntsmen. I question whether they have ever caught a gazelle or
any full-grown animal in their lives; they are a stupid set, and their
dogs worse still in field-sport, though always living in the desert.
There are huntsmen amongst the Haghars. The Kailouees prefer running
down men, or rather women. All they think of is riding or straying from
place to place after the women--this is their sport.

This may be called a country of dry wadys. The name is appropriate all
the year round, except on the few days when the floods are seen pouring
down these seeming beds of rivers. Hereabouts are the largest tholukh
and other trees found in Aheer. Those that grow on high ground are
small, but from their trunks are picked off, by the slaves, pieces of
gum. To-day, however, I could not succeed in getting a piece. What was
found was carried to En-Noor. I shall soon get a taste of it. We
continue with our same number of camels; no other detachments of the
large salt-caravan have yet joined us. En-Noor is still very active,
riding before and behind, seeing that all is right. He is followed by
his shadow. He wears his yellow burnouse. I have heard of no town on
this side of Baghzem.

An immense quantity of stone is scattered over the route hereabouts.
Overweg believes it to be basalt, or a species of volcanic stone of
similar character.

I am preparing myself for my Soudan journeys, and, _en route_, take as
much rest as possible. Cold winds prevail night and morning, but the sun
burns a few hours in the day. Certainly now is the best season for
travelling in this country. What it is in Soudan it is impossible to
tell.

_20th._--We rested to-day. There is a well a short distance off, called
Tilya. This morning early filed by a large division of the salt-caravan,
about three hundred camels. We passed them yesterday. They had also a
little merchandise besides salt. Some of the people inquired of me if I
had found my camels. I told them two were still missing. They were all
strangers, but were, nevertheless, civil. I made a short excursion in
search of gum amongst the tholukh-trees. I was fortunate enough to find
one piece, or, rather, a small bunch of pellucid drops, of a bright
amber-colour. The bunch was scarcely exuding from the tree on which it
was found, and was ready to drop when touched, hanging by the slenderest
connexion. It was even somewhat disposed to become liquid. This gum is
found only on the small young trees. The taste was very pleasant. It is
astonishing how little gum has been picked off these trees by our
people, although we have passed tens of thousands of them _en route_.

The slaves of the caravan were having a game amongst themselves this
morning. They brought into my tent a man bound as dead, and I was
obliged to pay a handkerchief to relieve myself of the bad omen. Such a
thing is considered a horrible thing if you do not buy away the ill
effects of it. This is certainly an easy way of collecting money and
goods. It was, however, amusing to see the fellow, how still he lay;
truly it was as still as death. The ceremony itself arose out of the
culprit, or man bound, having lost our camels, a circumstance which has
detained us here to-day. The herdsman was thus punished for his neglect;
and so all these African people have an amusing way of turning their
misfortunes into fun, as well as of making a profit out of them. I have
already observed before, that every misfortune we have suffered has been
a benefit to the Kailouees. This has made them so careless about what
might happen to us.

_21st._--Our course was generally nearly south, but often a little
winding. Baghzem was always on our right, until we left it behind us, on
the north-west. This mountain has, probably, been so much celebrated in
all past times, because it is the most conspicuous object on the return
route from the south to the north. Overweg conjectures that it is
granite. He had no servant at hand yesterday to visit it with him, and
he did not like to go alone, because it swarms with lions.

We passed to-day mostly through undulating country, a sort of ground
which, in the Sahara, lies generally between the plateaux and the high
rocky ranges. From one of the lesser heights we had a magnificent view
of Baghzem. We passed also through and along several fine wadys, lined
with ancient trees. Perhaps, in some places, full half of the trees were
decayed, and many only naked stumps. The trees were so thick in certain
places as to deserve the name of forests--primeval forests--but, I
imagine, not to be compared with those of America.

Amongst the trees to-day appeared most conspicuously the doom-palm. This
is the first day we have seen it in such numbers. This "palm of
Pharaoh," as the Moors call it, according to their habit of coupling all
strange things with those ancient monarchs, is found in groups as well
as isolated trees. When isolate, and also when in groups, it very
frequently assumes a double-shaped trunk, or two large arms spread out
or divided from a low stump.[11] Of the leaves, which are called
_gabba_, the people make all their rope.

[11] I believe the trunk of the doom is always thus divided and
subdivided.--ED.

These trees are now laden with fruit, not ripe. The abundance of them
gives to the place of our encampment a truly tropical aspect. We
journeyed on to-day eight hours and a-half--a good, fair day. The
weather was warm, even a little sultry. As to inhabitants, we passed
many isolated huts, but saw no villages in groups. We also passed the
ruins of many villages, whose houses were better built than any I have
yet seen in this part of Aheer. This country has seen its best days; for
the huts which now take the place of these houses, high and well-built
of stone and mud, are, indeed, miserable. Probably these deserted places
are some of the towns whose people were carried off to Bornou in the
recent razzias. At the bottom of most of the wadys to-day, water was
found at a foot depth, though not a copious supply. People were at the
wells in numbers, watering their cattle.

En-Noor paid me another attention to-day, when on camel-back, in
presenting to me a piece of gour-nut. This is considered a very great
compliment. As to the fruit itself, I have not yet acquired the taste;
it is only agreeable if you are thirsty, and after chewing it drink
water.

_22d._--We remain here to-day. It is not so cold as it has been.

I am sorry Madame En-Noor has left off the milk, though I never cease to
send coffee twice a-day. I must now, however, send but once, as my sugar
is getting low.

I observed the beautiful bird's nest which I mentioned the other day. It
is a perfect piece of architecture, far superior to the huts made in
this country. The only apparent deficiency is, that it seems to hang on
nothing, or is suspended sometimes on a slender straw, at other times on
a thin twig. The nest is built of straw inside and outside, but the
inside is of a finer straw. I have not seen the bird who is the
architect of this wonderful piece of mechanism. I observed two species
of parasitical plants, one of which has a slender trunk, and has its
root in the earth; and the other, which is entirely dependent on the
tree over which it spreads for all its support and nourishment. Its
roots are in the very boughs of the tree which bears it. Some of our
blacks, who were carried over the desert when young, and had not seen or
observed this phenomenon before, burst out laughing. These comicalities
of vegetation amused them exceedingly. What excites the serious
attention of cultivated minds often produces only laughter in vulgar and
untutored people. Parasitical plants would be a complete study for the
botanist here. The doom-tree has a smaller and rounder-shaped head than
the common date-palm; the leaves are spread out very like a fan, but I
know not whether the doom is called the fan-shaped palm.

We are to stay at this place some time--there appears to be no hurry. We
shall probably be here three days more. The Sultan of Asoudee is
visiting amongst us, and has concerted with En-Noor that all the
caravans shall go together, in order that no one portion of it shall
arrive before the other in Damerghou, and so get the ghaseb cheaper; as,
of course, the early arrivals generally get the better bargains. At
first I could not understand the reason of our all going together; now
the thing is clear enough.

En-Noor called at my tent in the evening, and was very civil. I got a
little milk afterwards for the tea sent him. The royal family appear now
to be short of milk. I find that his royal highness has in reality only
one wife, who is a slave. In an African point of view, however, even
this is too much. His highness confessed to Overweg that God gave man
his limited time in this as in all things. Had the beating I have
recorded any relation to this bitter reflection?

When the sun is down, the landscape around begins to look like Old
England, the species of trees not being visible. The doom reminds me of
the shorn elms along the hedges.

_23d._--The Sultan of Asoudee sent this morning for powder, and was
thankful for a small quantity. We remained here this day. All the
valleys and country around are called _Unan_. This is also the name of a
well near us, but water is usually obtained by scooping out the sand in
the bed of the valleys, and there are few regular wells; those which are
dug are destroyed as soon as the rain returns. Such alone remain entire
as are out of the reach, or beyond the range of the periodic floods.

_24th._--We were not to come on to-day; but En-Noor changed his mind,
and we journeyed on five hours, up the valley of Unan. The eternal
sameness of the tholukh and doom--for dooms are now in great
numbers--would be wearisome, had we not had so much desert before; but
we are still delighted with the continual occurrence of trees, be they
of what species they may. There is, besides, a great abundance of wild
water-melons, which the people sometimes eat. They are very small, but
hard and sound. The lizard, which almost through the whole desert was
found darting about and around the camels' feet, has now disappeared. It
would be a curious inquiry for a naturalist to endeavour to account for
its disappearance, for the nature of the soil has not so much changed.
The only difference--but perhaps this is great for the lizard--is that
hereabouts occur periodic rains, which deluge the land for a few days in
the year; and during these few days, probably, all the land lizards
found in low places would be destroyed.

This is Christmas-eve; a sorry one for us all! We receive no news but
bad news. For to-day a man came up to us, who said he left Tripoli three
months ago, and that the cholera had been very severe in Tripoli, making
many victims; but he brought no particular news for us. He came by the
way of Ghadamez and Ghat, and yet had heard nothing of our misfortunes
on the frontier. I suppose the people of Ghat had already ceased to talk
about us and our affairs; for here in the desert, as elsewhere, things
are soon forgotten. We saw little of the rest of the caravan _en route_,
but if we ever see the whole of the camels going with us, and the
division of Aghadez, I am quite sure they will never reach the
exaggerated number of 10,000! All numbers are dreadfully exaggerated in
Africa.

_25th._--Christmas-day! My second Christmas day in Africa during this
journey. We have nothing to make a merry day of; but we must try and
cheer ourselves up by the thought that we are still spared, after
passing through so many dangers, and amidst a people naturally hostile
to us, and only softened by fear of the Turks, and by possession of the
goods of the Government, which they have taken one way or other. Yet
some of the people appear of a more kindly nature, and Overweg has
experienced a little hospitality in the huts retired from the road, or
sequestered in the surrounding valleys.

Gracious God! make us all thankful for health and strength: may we ever
praise thy protecting care of us and our mission. For the sake of our
Saviour, born on this day, pardon all our sins; give us grace to lead a
new life, and a most willing mind to receive Jesus as the Lord our
righteousness! O God, have mercy upon all our friends and relations, and
give them the will to receive the Saviour, born on this day, as their
only chance of salvation! O God, have mercy upon Africa, and on all men!

Some musicians came this morning to salute us with a little of their
rough music, a drum and a clarionet. I gave them three rings and a
little sugar. I have very little to bestow, and were I to be more
generous, or to make an effort to give them anything like a Christmas
gift, I should then have all the people upon me, begging everything I
had left. Yesterday I spoke a few words to Hamma, son-in-law of En-Noor,
and he immediately asked me for a turban. I had not spoken to him for
several weeks, or only saluted him with a few words, in order to avoid
his begging. This man has already had from me presents to the amount of
fifty dollars! Thus I am cut off from all conversation with these
people, and have no practice in speaking the languages of the interior.
I must try to get on better than this. Overweg, as doctor, is better
off. The sick, and the people who bring the sick, must talk to him, and
must receive a favour from him. And he frequently gets a few cheeses in
return. The women make extraordinary propositions. The other day they
offered him a slave or a bullock for a medicine to produce a child.

The place of our encampment is called Bargot, which I believe is also
the name of a well, near or about an hour and a-half distant. I have
also heard the name of Bergu. Yesterday we passed some ruins of houses,
built of stone and mud. I am glad that Barth borrowed my Bible, and is
reading to-day. Overweg also was the first to propose prayers on Sundays
when we are staying long together in one place.

We are now near the Hamadah, which is a journey of full four days
without water. We arrive at the water on the morning only of the fifth
day. I gave a Christmas-box to all the servants of the expedition, seven
persons, each a cotton handkerchief and a ring. This is all I could
spare. Yusuf had a silk handkerchief and no ring. The kind of ring
esteemed here is one having a good imitation of a stone, and the metal
is as good as gold for these people. With the exception of the Gatronee
and my mahadee, the rest ill deserved their Christmas-box, but it is
necessary to forget and to forgive. However, I am now more strict with
them, as we are leaving the Tuaricks, amongst whom some of our servants
became almost Tuaricks themselves in manners.

The Sultan of Asoudee is still with us, and keeps up a sort of state
about him, although he is a poor weak fellow indeed, compared to
En-Noor. He has not paid us a visit, and we have not seen him. En-Noor,
probably, does not wish to bother us with such a visit. The musicians
who salu

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