Letters of the Right Honourable Lady M—y W—y M—e
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Title: Letters of the Right Honourable Lady M—y W—y M—e
Author: Lady Mary Wortley Montagu
Release date: January 15, 2006 [eBook #17520]
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/17520
Credits: E-text prepared by Desmond Grocott
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LADY M—Y W—Y M—E ***
E-text prepared by Desmond Grocott
LETTERS
OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
Lady M----y W----y M----e;
WRITTEN DURING HER TRAVELS IN
EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA,
TO
Persons of Distinction, Men of Letters, &c.
in different PARTS of EUROPE.
Which contain, among other curious Relations,
ACCOUNTS of the POLICY and MANNERS
of the TURKS.
Drawn from Sources that have been inaccessible to
other Travellers.
A NEW EDITION, COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME.
LONDON;
PRINTED FOR THOMAS MARTIN,
M.DCC.XC.
PREFACE,
BY A L A D Y.
WRITTEN IN 1724.
I WAS going, like common editors, to advertise the reader of the
beauties and excellencies of the work laid before him: To tell him,
that the illustrious author had opportunities that other travellers,
whatever their quality or curiosity may have been, cannot obtain; and
a genius capable of making the best improvement of every opportunity.
But if the reader, after perusing _one_ letter only has not
discernment to distinguish that natural elegance, that delicacy of
sentiment and observation, that easy gracefulness, and lovely
simplicity, (which is the perfection of writing) and in which these
_Letters_ exceed all that has appeared in this kind, or almost in
any other, let him lay the book down, and leave it to those who have.
THE noble author had the goodness to lend me her MS. to satisfy my
curiosity in some inquiries I had made concerning her travels; and
when I had it in my hands, how was it possible to part with it? I
once had the vanity to hope I might acquaint the public, that it
owed this invaluable treasure to my importunities. But, alas! the
most ingenious author has condemned it to obscurity during her life;
and conviction, as well as deference, obliges me to yield to her
reasons. However, if these _Letters_ appear hereafter, when I am in
my grave, let this attend them, in testimony to posterity, that among
her contemporaries, _one_ woman, at least, was just to her merit.
THERE is not any thing so excellent, but some will carp at it; and
the (sic) rather, because of its excellency. But to such hypercritics I
shall not say ************.
I CONFESS, I am malicious enough to desire, that the world should see
to how much better purpose the _LADIES_ travel than their _LORDS_;
and that, whilst it is surfeited with _Male travels_, all in the same
tone, and stuffed with the same trifles; a lady has the skill to
strike out a new path, and to embellish a worn-out subject with
variety of fresh and elegant entertainment. For, besides the
vivacity and spirit which enliven every part, and that inimitable
beauty which spreads through the whole; besides the purity of the
style, for which it may justly, be accounted the standard of the
English tongue; the reader will find a more true and accurate account
of the customs and manners of the several nations with whom this lady
conversed, than he can in any other author. But, as her ladyship's
penetration discovers the inmost follies of the heart, so the candour
of her temper passed over them with an air of pity, rather than
reproach; treating with the politeness of a court, and the gentleness
of a lady, what the severity of her judgment could not but condemn.
IN short, let her own sex at least, do her justice; lay aside
diabolical Envy, and its _brother_ Malice [Footnote: This fair and
elegant prefacer (sic) has resolved that Malice should be of the
masculine gender: I believe it is both masculine and feminine, and I
heartily wish it were neuter.] with all their accursed company, sly
whispering, cruel back-biting, spiteful detraction, and the rest of
that hideous crew, which, I hope, are very falsely said to attend the
_Tea-table_, being more apt to think, they frequent those public
places, where virtuous women never come. Let the men malign one
another, if they think fit, and strive to pull down merit, when they
cannot equal it. Let us be better natured, than to give way to any
unkind or disrespectful thought of so bright an ornament of our sex,
merely because she has better sense; for I doubt not but our hearts
will tell us, that this is the real and unpardonable offence,
whatever may be pretended. Let us be better Christians, than to look
upon her with an evil eye, only because the giver of all good gifts
has entrusted and adorned her with the most excellent talents.
Rather let us freely own the superiority, of this sublime genius, as
I do, in the sincerity of my soul; pleased that a _woman_ triumphs,
and proud to follow in her train. Let us offer her the palm which is
so justly her due; and if we pretend to any laurels, lay them
willingly at her feet.
December 18.. 1724. M. A.
Charm'd into love of what obscures my fame,
If I had wit, I'd celebrate her name,
And all the beauties of her mind proclaim.
Till Malice, deafen'd with the mighty sound,
Its ill-concerted calumnies confound;
Let fall the mask, and with pale envy meet,
To ask and find, their pardon at her feet.
You see, Madam, how I lay every thing at your feet. As the tautology
shews (sic) the poverty of my genius, it likewise shews the extent of
your empire over my imagination.
_May_ 31. 1725.
ADVERTISEMENT OF THE EDITOR
THE editor of these letters, who, during his residence at Venice, was
honoured with the esteem and friendship of their ingenious and
elegant author, presents them to the public, for the two following
reasons:
_First_, Because it was the manifest intention of the late Lady
M----y W----Y M----e; that this SELECT COLLECTION of her letters
should be communicated to the public: an intention declared, not only
to the editor, but to a few more chosen friends, to whom she gave,
copies of the incomparable letters.
The _second_, and principal reason, that has engaged the editor to
let this Collection see the light, is, that the publication of these
letters will be an immortal monument to the memory of Lady M----y
W----y M----e; and will shew, as long as the English language
endures, the sprightliness of her wit, the solidity of her judgment,
the extent of her knowledge, the elegance of her taste, and the
excellence of her _real_ character.
The SELECT COLLECTION, here published, was faithfully transcribed
from the original manuscript of her ladyship at Venice.
The letters from Ratisbon, Vienna, Dresden, Peterwaradin,
Belgrade, Adrianople, Constantinople, Pera, Tunis, Genoa, Lyons, and
Paris, are certainly, the most curious and interesting part of this
publication; and, both in point of _matter_ and _form_, are, to say
no more of them, singularly worthy of the curiosity and attention of
all _men of taste_, and even of all _women of fashion_. As to those
female readers, who read for improvement, and think their beauty an
insipid thing, if it is not seasoned by intellectual charms, they
will find in these letters what they seek for; and will behold in
their author, an ornament and model to their sex.
LETTER 1.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Rotterdam, Aug_. 3. O. S. 1716.
I FLATTER, myself, dear sister, that I shall give you some pleasure
in letting you know that I have safely passed the sea, though we had
the ill fortune of a storm. We were persuaded by the captain of the
yacht to set out in a calm, and he pretended there was nothing so
easy as to tide it over; but, after two days slowly moving, the wind
blew so hard, that none of the sailors could keep their feet, and we
were all Sunday night tossed very handsomely. I never saw a man more
frighted (sic) than the captain. For my part, I have been so lucky,
neither to suffer from fear nor seasickness; though, I confess, I was
so impatient to see myself once more upon dry land, that I would not
stay till the yacht could get to Rotterdam, but went in the long-boat
to Helvoetsluys, where we had voitures to carry us to the Briel. I
was charmed with the neatness of that little town; but my arrival at
Rotterdam presented me a new scene of pleasure. All the streets are
paved with broad stones, and before many of the meanest artificers
doors are placed seats of various coloured marbles, so neatly kept,
that, I assure you, I walked almost all over the town yesterday,
_incognito_, in my slippers without receiving one spot of dirt; and
you may see the Dutch maids washing the pavement of the street, with
more application than ours do our bed-chambers. The town seems so
full of people, with such busy faces, all in motion, that I can
hardly fancy it is not some celebrated fair; but I see it is every
day the same. 'Tis certain no town can be more advantageously
situated for commerce. Here are seven large canals, on which the
merchants ships come up to the very doors of their houses. The shops
and warehouses are of a surprising neatness and magnificence, filled
with an incredible quantity of fine merchandise, and so much cheaper
than what we see in England, that I have much ado to persuade myself
I am still so near it. Here is neither dirt nor beggary to be seen.
One is not shocked with those loathsome cripples, so common in
London, nor teased with the importunity of idle fellows and wenches,
that chuse (sic) to be nasty and lazy. The common servants, and
little shop-women, here, are more nicely clean than most of our
ladies; and the great variety of neat dresses (every woman dressing
her head after her own fashion) is an additional pleasure in seeing
the town. You see, hitherto, I make no complaints, dear sister; and
if I continue to like travelling as I do at present, I shall not
repent my project. It will go a great way in making me satisfied
with it, if it affords me an opportunity of entertaining you. But it
is not from Holland that you may expect a _disinterested_ offer. I
can write enough in the stile (sic) of Rotterdam, to tell you
plainly, in one word that I expect returns of all the London news.
You see I have already learnt to make a good bargain; and that it is
not for nothing I will so much as tell you, I am your affectionate
sister.
LET. II
TO MRS. S----.
_Hague, Aug. 5_. O. S. 1716.
I MAKE haste to tell you, dear Madam, that, after all the dreadful
fatigues you threatened me with, I am hitherto very well pleased with
my journey. We take care to make such short stages every day, that I
rather fancy myself upon parties of pleasure, than upon the road; and
sure nothing can be more agreeable than travelling in Holland. The
whole country appears a large garden; the roads are well paved,
shaded on each side with rows of trees, and bordered with large
canals, full of boats, passing and repassing. Every twenty paces
gives you the prospect of some villa, and every four hours that of a
large town, so surprisingly neat, I am sure you would be charmed with
them. The place I am now at is certainly one of the finest villages
in the world. Here are several squares finely built, and (what I
think a particular beauty) the whole set with thick large trees. The
_Vour-hout_ is, at the same time, the Hyde-Park and Mall of the
people of quality; for they take the air in it both on foot and in
coaches. There are shops for wafers, cool liquors, &c.--I have been
to see several of the most celebrated gardens, but I will not teaze
(sic) you with their descriptions. I dare say you think my letter
already long enough. But I must not conclude without begging your
pardon, for not obeying your commands, in sending the lace you
ordered me. Upon my word, I can yet find none, that is not dearer
than you may buy it at London. If you want any India goods, here are
great variety of penny-worths; and I shall follow your orders with
great pleasure and exactness; being, Dear Madam, &c. &c.
LET. III
TO MRS. S. C.
_Nimeguen, Aug_.13. O. S. 1716.
I AM extremely sorry, my dear S. that your fears of disobliging your
relations, and their fears for your health and safety, have hindered
me from enjoying the happiness of your company, and you the pleasure
of a diverting journey. I receive some degree of mortification from
every agreeable novelty, or pleasing prospect, by the reflection of
your having so unluckily missed the delight which I know it would
have given you. If you were with me in this town, you would be ready
to expect to receive visits from your Nottingham friends. No two
places were ever more resembling; one has but to give the Maese the
name of the Trent, and there is no distinguishing the prospect. The
houses, like those of Nottingham, are built one above another, and
are intermixed in the same manner with trees and gardens. The tower
they call Julius Caesar's, has the same situation with Nottingham
castle; and I cannot help fancying, I see from it the Trentfield,
Adboulton, places so well known to us. 'Tis true, the fortifications
make a considerable difference. All the learned in the art of war
bestow great commendations on them; for my part, that know nothing of
the matter, I shall content myself with telling you, 'tis a very
pretty walk on the ramparts, on which there is a tower, very
deservedly called the Belvidera; where people go to drink coffee,
tea, &c. and enjoy one of the finest prospects in the world. The
public walks have no great beauty but the thick shade of the trees,
which is solemnly delightful. But I must not forget to take notice
of the bridge, which appeared very surprising to me. It is large
enough to hold hundreds of men, with horses and carriages. They give
the value of an English two-pence to get upon it, and then away they
go, bridge and all, to the other side of the river, with so slow a
motion, one is hardly sensible of any at all. I was yesterday at the
French church, and stared very much at their manner of service. The
parson clapped on a broad-brimmed hat in the first place, which gave
him entirely the air of _what d'ye call him_, in Bartholomew fair,
which he kept up by extraordinary antic gestures, and preaching much
such stuff as the other talked to the puppets. However, the
congregation seemed to receive it with great devotion; and I was
informed by some of his flock, that he is a person of particular fame
amongst them. I believe, by this time, you are as much tired with my
account of him, as I was with his sermon; but I am sure your brother
will excuse a digression in favour of the church of England. You
know speaking disrespectfully of the Calvinists, is the same thing as
speaking honourably of the church. Adieu, my dear S. always remember
me; and be assured I can never forget you, &c. &c.
LET. IV.
TO THE LADY ----.
_Cologn (sic), Aug_, 16. O. S. 1716.
IF my lady ---- could have any notion of the fatigues that I have
suffered these two last days, I am sure she would own it a great
proof of regard, that I now sit down to write to her. We hired
horses from Nimeguen hither, not having the conveniency (sic) of the
post, and found but very indifferent accommodations at Reinberg, our
first stage; but it was nothing to what I suffered yesterday. We
were in hopes to reach Cologn; our horses tired at Stamel, three
hours from it, where I was forced to pass the night in my clothes, in
a room not at all better than a hovel; for though I have my bed with
me, I had no mind to undress, where the wind came from a thousand
places. We left this wretched lodging at day-break, and about six
this morning came safe here, where I got immediately into bed. I
slept so well for three hours, that I found myself perfectly
recovered, and have had spirits enough to go and see all that is
curious in the town, that is to say, the churches, for here is
nothing else worth seeing. This is a very large town, but the most
part of it is old built. The Jesuits church, which is the neatest,
was shewed (sic) me, in a very complaisant manner, by a handsome
young Jesuit; who, not knowing who I was, took a liberty in his
compliments and railleries, which very much diverted me. Having
never before seen any thing of that nature, I could not enough admire
the magnificence of the altars, the rich images of the saints (all
massy silver) and the _enchassures_ of the relicks (sic); though I
could not help murmuring, in my heart, at the profusion of pearls,
diamonds, and rubies, bestowed on the adornment of rotten teeth, and
dirty rags. I own that I had wickedness enough to covet St Ursula's
pearl necklaces; though perhaps this was no wickedness at all, an
image not being certainly one's neighbour's; but I went yet farther,
and wished the wench herself converted into dressing-plate. I should
also gladly see converted into silver, a great St Christopher, which
I imagine would look very well in a cistern. These were my pious
reflections: though I was very well satisfied to see, piled up to the
honour of our nation, the skulls of the eleven thousand virgins. I
have seen some hundreds of relicks here of no less, consequence; but
I will not imitate the common stile (sic) of travellers so far, as to
give you a list of them; being persuaded, that you have no manner of
curiosity for the titles given to jaw-bones and bits of worm-eaten
wood.--Adieu, I am just going to supper, where I shall drink your
health in an admirable sort of Lorrain (sic) wine, which I am sure is
the same you call Burgundy in London, &c. &c.
LET. V.
TO THE COUNTESS OF B----.
_Nuremberg, Aug_. 22. O. S. 1716.
AFTER five days travelling post, I could not sit down to write on any
other occasion, than to tell my dear lady, that I have not forgot her
obliging command, of sending her some account of my travels. I have
already passed a large part of Germany, have seen all that is
remarkable in Cologn, Frankfort, Wurtsburg, and this place. 'Tis
impossible not to observe the difference between the free towns and
those under the government of absolute princes, as all the little
sovereigns of Germany are. In the first, there appears an air of
commerce and plenty. The streets are well-built, and full of people,
neatly and plainly dressed. The shops are loaded with merchandise,
and the commonalty are clean and cheerful. In the other you see a
sort of shabby finery, a number of dirty people of quality tawdered
(sic) out; narrow nasty streets out of repair, wretchedly thin of
inhabitants, and above half of the common sort asking alms. I cannot
help fancying one under the figure of a clean Dutch citizen's wife,
and the other like a poor town lady of pleasure, painted and ribboned
out in her head-dress, with tarnished silver-laced shoes, a ragged
under-petticoat, a miserable mixture of vice and poverty.--They have
sumptuary laws in this town, which distinguish their rank by their
dress, prevent the excess which ruins so many other cities, and has a
more agreeable effect to the eye of a stranger, than our fashions. I
need not be ashamed to own, that I wish these laws were in force in
other parts of the world. When one considers impartially, the merit
of a rich suit of clothes in most places, the respect and the smiles
of favour it procures, not to speak of the envy and the sighs it
occasions (which is very often the principal charm to the wearer),
one is forced to confess, that there is need of an uncommon
understanding to resift the temptation of pleasing friends and
mortifying rivals; and that it is natural to young people to fall
into a folly, which betrays them to that want of money which is the
source of a thousand basenesses (sic). What numbers of men have
begun the world with generous inclinations, that have afterwards been
the instruments of bringing misery on a whole people, being led by
vain expence (sic) into debts that they could clear no other way but
by the forfeit of their honour, and which they never could have
contracted, if the respect the multitude pays to habits, was fixed by
law, only to a particular colour or cut of plain cloth! These
reflections draw after them others that are too melancholy. I will
make haste to put them out of your head by the farce of relicks, with
which I have been entertained in all Romish churches.
THE Lutherans are not quite free from these follies. I have seen
here, in the principal church, a large piece of the cross set in
jewels, and the point of the spear, which they told me very gravely,
was the same that pierced the side of our Saviour. But I was
particularly diverted in a little Roman Catholic church which is
permitted here, where the professors of that religion are not very
rich, and consequently cannot adorn their images in so rich a manner
as their neighbour. For, not to be quite destitute of all finery,
they have dressed up an image of our Saviour over the altar, in a
fair full-bottomed wig very well powdered. I imagine I see your lady
ship stare at this article, of which you very much doubt the
veracity; but, upon my word, I have not yet made use of the privilege
of a traveller; and my whole account is written with the same plain
sincerity of heart, with which I assure you that I am, dear Madam,
yours, &c. &c.
LET. VI.
To MRS P----.
_Ratisbon, Aug_. 30 O. S. 1716.
I HAD the pleasure of receiving yours, but the day before I left
London. I give you a thousand thanks for your good wishes, and have
such an opinion of their efficacy that, I am persuaded, I owe in
part, to them, the good luck of having proceeded so far on my long
journey without any ill accident. For I don't reckon it any, to have
been stopped a few days in this town by a cold, since it has not only
given me an opportunity of seeing all that is curious in it, but of
making some acquaintance with the ladies, who have all been to see me
with great civility, particularly _Madame_ ----, the wife of our
king's envoy from Hanover. She has carried me to all the assemblies,
and I have been magnificently entertained at her house, which is one
of the finest here. You know, that all the nobility of this place
are envoys from different states. Here are a great number of them,
and they might pass their time agreeably enough, if they were less
delicate on the point of ceremony. But instead of joining in the
design of making the town as pleasant to one another as they can, and
improving their little societies, they amuse themselves no other way
than with perpetual quarrels, which they take care to eternize (sic),
by leaving them to their successors; and an envoy to Ratisbon
receives, regularly, half a dozen quarrels, among the perquisites of
his employment. You may be sure the ladies are not wanting, on their
side, in cherishing and improving these important _picques_, which
divide the town almost into as many parties, as there are families.
They chuse rather to suffer the mortification of sitting almost alone
on their assembly nights, than to recede one jot from their
pretensions. I have not been here above a week, and yet I have heard
from almost every one of them the whole history of their wrongs, and
dreadful complaint of the injustice of their neighbours, in hopes to
draw me to their party. But I think it very prudent to remain
neuter, though, if I was to stay amongst them, there would be no
possibility of continuing so, their quarrels running so high, that
they will not be civil to those that visit their adversaries. The
foundation of these everlasting disputes, turns entirely upon rank,
place, and the title of Excellency, which they all pretend to; and,
what is very hard, will give it to no body. For my part, I could not
forbear advising them, (for the public good) to give the title of
Excellency to every body; which would include the receiving it from
every body; but the very mention of such a dishonourable peace, was
received with as much indignation, as Mrs Blackaire did the motion of
a reference. And indeed, I began to think myself ill-natured, to
offer to take from them, in a town where there are so few diversions,
so entertaining an amusement. I know that my peaceable disposition
already gives me a very ill figure, and that 'tis _publicly_
whispered as a piece of impertinent pride in me, that I have hitherto
been saucily civil to every body, as if I thought nobody good enough
to quarrel with. I should be obliged to change my behaviour, if I
did not intend to pursue my journey in a few days. I have been to
see the churches here, and had the permission of touching the
relicks, which was never suffered in places where I was not known. I
had, by this privilege, the opportunity of making an observation,
which I doubt not might have been made in all the other churches,
that the emeralds and rubies which they show round their relicks and
images are most of them false; though they tell you that many of the
_Crosses_ and _Madonas_ (sic), set round with these stones, have been
the gifts of emperors and other great princes. I don't doubt,
indeed, but they were at first jewels of value; but the good fathers
have found it convenient to apply them to other uses, and the people
are just as well satisfied with bits of glass amongst these relicks.
They shewed me a prodigious claw set in gold, which they called the
claw of a griffin; and I could not forbear asking the reverend priest
that shewed it, Whether the griffin was a saint? The question almost
put him beside his gravity; but he answered, They only kept it as a
curiosity. I was very much scandalised at a large silver image of
the _Trinity_, where the _Father_ is represented under the figure of
a decrepit old man, with a beard down to his knees, and triple crown
on his head, holding in his arms the _Son_, fixed on the cross, and
the _Holy Ghost_, in the shape of a dove, hovering over him.
Madam ---- is come this minute to call me to the assembly, and forces
me to tell you, very abruptly, that I am ever your, &c. &c.
LET. VII.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Vienna, Sept_. 8. O. S. 1716.
I AM now, my dear sister, safely arrived at Vienna; and, I thank God,
have not at all suffered in my health, nor (what is dearer to me) in
that of my child, by all our fatigues. We travelled by water from
Ratisbon, a journey perfectly agreeable, down the Danube, in one of
those little vessels, that they, very properly, call wooden houses,
having in them all the conveniences of a palace, stoves in the
chambers, kitchens, &c. They are rowed by twelve men each, and move
with such incredible swiftness, that in the same day you have the
pleasure of a vast variety of prospects; and, within the space of a
few hours, you have the pleasure of seeing a populous city adorned
with magnificent palaces, and the most romantic solitudes, which
appear distant from the commerce of mankind, the banks of the Danube
being charmingly diversified with woods, rocks, mountains covered
with vines, fields of corn, large cities, and ruins of ancient
castles. I saw the great towns of Passau and Lintz, famous for the
retreat of the imperial court, when Vienna was besieged. This town,
which has the honour of being the emperor's residence, did not at all
answer my expectation, nor ideas of it, being much less than I
expected to find it; the streets are very close, and so narrow, one
cannot observe the fine fronts of the palaces, though many of them
very well deserve observation, being truly magnificent. They are
built of fine white stone, and are excessive high. For as the town
is too little for the number of the people that desire to live in it,
the builders seem to have projected to repair that misfortune, by
clapping one town on the top of another, most of the houses being of
five, and some of them six stories. You may easily imagine, that the
streets being so narrow, the rooms are extremely dark; and, what is
an inconveniency much more intolerable, in my opinion, there is no
house has so few as five or six families in it. The apartments of
the greatest ladies, and even of the ministers of state, are divided,
but by a partition, from that of a taylor (sic) or shoemaker; and I
know no body that has above two floors in any house, one for their
own use, and one higher for their servants. Those that have houses
of their own, let Out the rest of them to whoever will take them; and
thus the great stairs, (which are all of stone) are as common and as
dirty as the street. 'Tis true, when you have once travelled through
them, nothing can be more surprisingly magnificent than the
apartments. They are commonly a _suite_ of eight or ten large rooms,
all inlaid, the doors and windows richly carved and gilt, and the
furniture, such as is seldom seen in the palaces of sovereign princes
in other countries. Their apartments are adorned with hangings of
the finest tapestry of Brussels, prodigious large looking glasses in
silver frames, fine japan tables, beds, chairs, canopies, and window
curtains of the richest Genoa damask or velvet, almost covered with
gold lace or embroidery. All this is made gay by pictures, and vast
jars of japan china, and large lustres of rock crystal. I have
already had the honour of being invited to dinner by several of the
first people of quality; and I must do them the justice to say, the
good taste and magnificence of their tables, very well answered to
that of their furniture. I have been more than once entertained with
fifty dishes of meat all served in silver, and well dressed; the
desert (sic) proportionable, served in the finest china. But the
variety and richness of their wines, is what appears the most
surprising. The constant way is, to lay a list of their names upon
the plates of the guests, along with the napkins; and I have counted
several times to the number of eighteen different sorts, all
exquisite in their kinds. I was yesterday at Count Schoonbourn, the
vice-chancellor's garden, where I was invited to dinner. I must own,
I never saw a place so perfectly delightful as the Fauxburg (sic) of
Vienna. It is very large, and almost wholly composed of delicious
palaces. If the emperor found it proper to permit the gates of the
town to be laid open, that the Fauxburg might be joined to it, he
would have one of the largest and best built cities in Europe. Count
Schoonbourn's villa is one of the most magnificent; the furniture all
rich brocades, so well fancied and fitted up, nothing can look more
gay and splendid; not to speak of a gallery, full of rarities of
coral, mother of pearl, and, throughout the whole house, a profusion
of gilding, carving, fine paintings, the most beautiful porcelain,
statues of alabaster and ivory, and vast orange and lemon trees in
gilt pots. The dinner was perfectly fine and well ordered, and made
still more agreeable by the good humour of the Count. I have not yet
been at court, being forced to stay for my gown, without which there
is no waiting on the empress; though I am not without great
impatience to see a beauty that has been the admiration of so many
different nations. When I have had that honour, I will not fail to
let you know my real thoughts, always taking a particular pleasure in
communicating them to my dear sister.
LETTER VIII
TO MR. P----.
_Vienna, Sept_.14. O. S. (sic)
PERHAPS you'll laugh at me for thanking you very gravely for all the
obliging concern you express for me. 'Tis certain that I may, if I
please, take the fine things you say to me for wit and raillery; and,
it may be, it would be taking them right. But I never, in my life,
was half so well disposed to take you in earnest as I am at present;
and that distance which makes the continuation of your friendship
improbable, has very much increased my faith in it. I find that I
have, (as well as the rest of my sex) whatever face I set on't, a
strong disposition to believe in miracles. Don't fancy, however,
that I am infected by the air of these popish countries; I have,
indeed, so far wandered from the discipline of the church of England,
as to have been last Sunday at the opera, which was performed in the
garden of the Favorita; and I was so much pleased with it, I have not
yet repented my seeing it. Nothing of that kind ever was more
magnificent; and I can easily believe what I am told, that the
decorations and habits cost the emperor thirty thousand pounds
Sterling. The stage was built over a very large canal, and, at the
beginning of the second act, divided into two parts, discovering the
water, on which there immediately came, from different parts, two
fleets of little gilded vessels, that gave the representation of a
naval fight. It is not easy to imagine the beauty of this scene,
which I took particular notice of. But all the rest were perfectly
fine in their kind. The story of the opera is the enchantment of
Alcina, which gives opportunities for great variety of machines, and
changes of the scenes, which are performed with a surprising
swiftness. The theatre is so large, that it is hard to carry the eye
to the end of it, and the habits in the utmost magnificence, to the
number of one hundred and eight. No house could hold such large
decorations: but the ladies all sitting in the open air, exposes them
to great inconveniences; for there is but one canopy for the imperial
family; and the first night it was represented, a shower of rain
happening, the opera was broke off, and the company crowded away in
such confusion, that I was almost squeezed to death.--But if their
operas are thus delightful, their comedies are in as high a degree
ridiculous. They have but one play-house, where I had the curiosity
to go to a German comedy, and was very glad it happened to be the
story of Amphitrion (sic). As that subject has been already handled
by a Latin, French, and English poet, I was curious to see what an
Austrian author would make of it. I understand enough of that
language to comprehend the greatest part of it; and besides, I took
with me a lady, that had the goodness to explain to me every word.
The way is, to take a box, which holds four, for yourself and
company. The fixed price is a gold ducat. I thought the house very
low and dark; but I confess, the comedy admirably recompensed that
defect. I never laughed so much in my life. It began with Jupiter's
falling in love out of a peep-hole in the clouds, and ended with the
birth of Hercules. But what was most pleasant, was the use Jupiter
made of his metamorphosis; for you no sooner saw him under the figure
of Amphitrion, but, instead of flying to Alcmena, with the raptures Mr
Dryden puts into his mouth, he sends for Amphitrion's taylor, and
cheats him of a laced coat, and his banker of a bag of money, a Jew
of a diamond ring, and bespeaks a great supper in his name; and the
greatest part of the comedy turns upon poor Amphitrion's being
tormented by these people for their debts. Mercury uses Sofia in the
same manner. But I could not easily pardon the liberty the poet has
taken of larding his play with, not only indecent expressions, but
such gross words, as I don't think Our mob would suffer from a
mountebank. Besides, the two Sofias very fairly let down their
breeches in the direct view of the boxes, which were full of people
of the first rank, that seemed very well pleased with their
entertainment, and assured me, this was a celebrated piece. I shall
conclude my letter with this remarkable relation, very well worthy
the serious consideration of Mr Collier. I won't trouble you with
farewel (sic) compliments, which I think generally as impertinent, as
courtesies at leaving the room, when the visit had been too long
already.
LET. IX.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Vienna, Sept_. 14. O. S.
THOUGH I have so lately troubled you, my dear sister, with a long
letter, yet I will keep my promise in giving you an account of my
first going to court. In order to that ceremony, I was squeezed up
in a gown, and adorned with a gorget and the other implements
thereunto belonging; a dress very inconvenient, but which certainly
shows the neck and shape to great advantage. I cannot forbear giving
you some description of the fashions here, which are more monstrous,
and contrary to all common sense and reason, than 'tis possible for
you to imagine. They build certain fabrics of gauze on their heads,
about a yard high, consisting of three or four stories, fortified
with numberless yards of heavy ribbon. The foundation of this
structure is a thing they call a _Bourle_, which is exactly of the
same shape and kind, but about four times as big as those rolls our
prudent milk-maids make use of to fix their pails upon. This machine
they cover With their own hair, which they mix with a great deal of
false, it being a particular beauty to have their heads too large to
go into a moderate tub. Their hair is prodigiously powdered to
conceal the mixture, and set out with three or four rows of bodkins
(wonderfully large, that stick out two or three inches from their
hair) made of diamonds, pearls, red, green, and yellow stones, that
it certainly requires as much art and experience to carry the load
upright, as to dance upon May-day with the garland. Their whale-bone
petticoats outdo ours by several yards, circumference, and cover some
acres of ground. You may easily suppose how this extraordinary dress
sets off and improves the natural ugliness, with which God Almighty
has been pleased to endow them, generally speaking. Even the lovely
empress herself is obliged to comply, in some degree, with these
absurd fashions, which they would not quit for all the world. I had
a private audience (according to ceremony) of half an hour, and then
all the other ladies were permitted to come and make their court. I
was perfectly charmed with the empress; I cannot however tell you
that her features are regular; her eyes are not large, but have a
lively look full of sweetness; her complexion the finest I ever saw;
her nose and forehead well made, but her mouth has ten thousand
charms, that touch the soul. When she smiles, 'tis with a beauty and
sweetness that forces adoration. She has a vast quantity of fine
fair hair; but then her person!--one must speak of it poetically to
do it rigid justice; all that the poets have said of the mien of
Juno, the air of Venus, come not up to the truth. The Graces move
with her; the famous statue of Medicis was not formed with more
delicate proportions; nothing can be added to the beauty of her neck
and hands. Till I saw them, I did not believe there were any in
nature so perfect, and I was almost sorry that my rank here did not
permit me to kiss them; but they are kissed sufficiently; for every
body that waits on her pays that homage at their entrance, and when
they take leave. When the ladies were come in, she sat down to
Quinze. I could not play at a game I had never seen before, and she
ordered me a seat at her right hand, and had the goodness to talk to
me very much, with that grace so natural to her. I expected every
moment, when the men were to come in to pay their court; but this
drawing-room is very different from that of England; no man enters it
but the grand-master, who comes in to advertise the empress of the
approach of the emperor. His imperial majesty did me the honour of
speaking to me in a very obliging manner; but he never speaks to any
of the other ladies; and the whole passes with a gravity and air of
ceremony that has something very formal in it. The empress Amelia,
dowager of the late emperor Joseph, came this evening to wait on the
reigning empress, followed by the two arch-duchesses her daughters,
who are very agreeable young princesses. Their imperial majesties
rose and went to meet her at the door of the room, after which she
was seated in an armed (sic) chair, next the empress, and in the same
manner at supper, and there the men had the permission of paying
their court. The arch-duchesses sat on chairs with backs without
arms. The table was entirely served, and all the dishes set on by
the empress's maids of honour, which are twelve young ladies of the
first quality. They have no salary, but their chamber at court,
where they live in a sort of confinement, not being suffered to go to
the assemblies or public places in town, except in compliment to the
wedding of a sister maid, whom the empress always presents with her
picture set in diamonds. The three first of them are called _Ladies
of the Key_, and wear gold keys by their sides; but what I find most
pleasant, is the custom, which obliges them, as long as they live,
after they have left the empress's service, to make her some present
every year on the day of her feast. Her majesty is served by no
married women but the _grande maitresse_, who is generally a widow of
the first quality, always very old, and is at the same time groom of
the stole, and mother of the maids. The dressers are not, at all, in
the figure they pretend to in England, being looked upon no otherwise
than as downright chambermaids. I had an audience next day Of the
empress mother, a princess of great virtue and goodness, but who
picques herself too much on a violent devotion. She is perpetually
performing extraordinary acts of penance, without having ever done
any thing to deserve them. She has the same number of maids of
honour, whom she suffers to go in colours; but she herself never
quits her mourning; and sure nothing can be more dismal than the
mourning here, even for a brother. There is not the least bit of
linen to be seen; all black crape (sic) instead of it. The neck,
ears and side of the face are covered with a plaited piece of the
same stuff, and the face that peeps out in the midst of it, looks as
if it were pilloried. The widows wear over and above, a crape
forehead cloth; and, in this solemn weed, go to all the public places
of diversion without scruple. The next day I was to wait on the
empress Amelia, who is now at her palace of retirement, half a mile
from the town. I had there the pleasure of seeing a diversion wholly
new to me, but which is the common amusement of this court. The
empress herself was seated on a little throne at the end of the fine
alley in the garden, and on each side of her were ranged two parties
of her ladies of quality, headed by two Young archduchesses, all
dressed in their hair, full of jewels, with fine light guns in their
hands; and at proper distances were placed three oval pictures, which
were the marks to be shot at. The first was that of a CUPID, filling
a bumper of Burgundy, and the motto, _'Tis easy to be valiant here_.
The second a FORTUNE, holding a garland in her hand, the motto, _For
her whom Fortune favours_. The third was a SWORD, with a laurel
wreath on the point, the motto, _Here is no shame to be
vanquished_.--Near the empress was a gilded trophy wreathed with
flowers, and made of little crooks, on which were hung rich Turkish
handkerchiefs, tippets, ribbons, laces, &c. for the small prizes.
The empress gave the first with her own hand, which was a fine ruby
ring set round with diamonds, in a gold snuff-box. There was for the
second, a little Cupid set with brilliants, and besides these a set
of fine china for the tea-table, enchased in gold, japan trunks,
fans, and many gallantries of the same nature. All the men of
quality at Vienna were spectators; but the ladies only had permission
to shoot, and the arch-duchess Amelia carried off the first prize. I
was very well pleased with having seen this entertainment, and I do
not know but it might make as good a figure as the prize-shooting in
the Eneid, if I could write as well as Virgil. This is the
favourite pleasure of the emperor, and there is rarely a week without
some feast of this kind, which makes the young ladies skilful enough
to defend a fort. They laughed very much to see me afraid to handle
a gun. My dear sister, you will easily pardon an abrupt conclusion.
I believe, by this time, you are ready to think I shall never
conclude at all.
LET. X.
TO THE LADY R----.
_Vienna, Sept_. 20. O. S. 1716.
I AM extremely rejoiced, but not at all surprised, at the long,
delightful letter, you have had the goodness to send me. I know that
you can think of an absent friend even in the midst of a court, and
you love to oblige, where you can have no view of a return; and I
expect from you that you should love me, and think of me, when you
don't see me. I have compassion for the mortifications that you tell
me befel (sic) our little old friend, and I pity her much more, since
I know, that they are only owing to the barbarous customs of our
country. Upon my word, if she were here, she would have no other
fault but that of being something too young for the fashion, and she
has nothing to do but to transplant herself hither about seven years
hence, to be again a young and blooming beauty. I can assure you,
that wrinkles, or a small stoop in the shoulders, nay, even
gray-hairs (sic), are no objection to the making new conquests. I
know you cannot easily figure to yourself, a young fellow of five and
twenty, ogling my lady S-ff--k with passion, or pressing to hand the
countess of O----d from an opera. But such are the sights I see
every day, and I don't perceive any body surprized (sic) at them but
myself. A woman, till five and thirty, is only looked upon as a raw
girl, and can possibly make no noise in the world, till about forty.
I don't know what your ladyship may think of this matter; but 'tis a
considerable comfort to me, to know there is upon earth such a
paradise for old women; and I am content to be insignificant at
present, in the design of returning when I am fit to appear no where
else. I cannot help, lamenting, on this occasion, the pitiful case
of too many English ladies, long since retired to prudery and
ratafia, who, if their stars had luckily conducted hither, would
shine in the first rank of beauties. Besides, that perplexing word
_reputation_, has quite another meaning here than what you give it at
London; and getting a lover is so far from losing, that 'tis properly
getting reputation; ladies being much more respected in regard to the
rank of their lovers, than that of their husbands.
BUT what you'll think very odd, the two sects that divide our whole
nation of petticoats, are utterly unknown in this place. Here are
neither coquettes nor prudes. No woman dares appear coquette enough
to encourage two lovers at a time. And I have not seen any such
prudes as to pretend fidelity to their husbands, who are certainly
the best natured set of people in the world, and look upon their
wives' gallants as favourably as men do upon their deputies, that
take the troublesome part of their business off their hands. They
have not however the less to do on that account; for they are
generally deputies in another place themselves; in one word, 'tis the
established custom for every lady to have two husbands, one that
bears the name, and another that performs the duties. And the
engagements are so well known, that it would be a downright affront,
and publicly resented, if you invited a woman of quality to dinner,
without, at the same time, inviting her two attendants of lover and
husband, between whom she sits in state with great gravity. The
sub-marriages generally last twenty years together, and the lady
often commands the poor lover's estate, even to the utter ruin of his
family. These connections, indeed, are as seldom begun by any real
passion as other matches; for a man makes but an ill figure that is
not in some commerce of this nature; and a woman looks out for a
lover as soon as she's married, as part of her equipage, without
which she could not be genteel; and the first article of the treaty
is establishing the pension, which remains to the lady, in case the
gallant should prove inconstant. This chargeable point of honour, I
look upon as the real foundation of so many wonderful influences of
constancy. I really know some women of the first quality, whose
pensions are as well known as their annual rents, and yet nobody
esteems them the less; on the contrary, their discretion would be
called in question, if they should be suspected to be mistresses
for nothing. A great part of their emulation consists in trying who
shall get most; and having no intrigue at all, is so far a disgrace,
that, I'll assure you, a lady, who is very much my friend here, told
me but yesterday, how much I was obliged to her for justifying my
conduct in a conversation relating to me, where it was publicly
asserted, that I could not possibly have common sense, since I had
been in town above a fortnight, and had made no steps towards
commencing an amour. My friend pleaded for me, that my stay was
uncertain, and she believed that was the cause of my seeming
stupidity; and this was all she could find to say in my
justification. But one of the pleasantest adventures I ever met with
in my life was last night, and it will give you a just idea in what a
delicate manner the _belles passions_ are managed in this country. I
was at the assembly of the countess of -----, and the young count
of ----- leading me down stairs, asked me how long I was to stay at
Vienna? I made answer, that my stay depended on the emperor, and it
was not in my power to determine it. Well, madam, (said he) whether
your time here is to be longer or shorter, I think you ought to pass
it agreeably, and to that end you must engage in a _little affair of
the heart_.--My heart, (answered I gravely enough) does not engage
very easily, and I have no design of parting with it. I see, madam,
(said he sighing) by the ill nature of that answer, I am not to hope
for it, which is a great mortification to me that am charmed with
you. But, however, I am still devoted to your service; and since I
am not worthy of entertaining you myself, do me the honour of letting
me know whom you like best amongst us, and I'll engage to manage the
affair entirely to your satisfaction. You may judge in what manner I
should have received this compliment in my own country; but I was
well enough acquainted with the way of this, to know that he really
intended me an obligation, and I thanked him with a very grave
courtesy for his zeal to serve me, and only assured him, I had no
occasion to make use of it. Thus you see, my dear, that gallantry
and good-breeding are as different, in different climates, as
morality and religion. Who have the rightest (sic) notions of both,
we shall never know till the day of judgment; for which great day of
_eclaircissement_, I own there is very little impatience in
your, &c. &c.
L E T. XI.
TO MRS J----.
_Vienna, Sept_. 26. O. S. 1716.
I WAS never more agreeably surprised than by your obliging letter.
'Tis a peculiar mark of my esteem that I tell you so; and I can
assure you, that if I loved you one grain less than I do, I should be
very sorry to see it so diverting as it is. The mortal aversion I
have to writing, makes me tremble at the thoughts of a new
correspondent; and I believe I have disobliged no less than a dozen
of my London acquaintance by refusing to hear from them, though I did
verily think they intended to send me very entertaining letters. But
I had rather lose the pleasure of reading several witty things, than
be forced to write many stuped (sic) ones. Yet, in spite of these
considerations, I am charmed with the proof of your friendship, and
beg a continuation of the same goodness, though I fear the dulness of
this will make you immediately repent of it. It is not from Austria
that one can write with vivacity, and I am already infected with the
phlegm of the country. Even their amours and their quarrels are
carried on with a surprising temper, and they are never lively but
upon points of ceremony. There, I own, they shew all their passions;
and 'tis not long since two coaches, meeting in a narrow street at
night, the ladies in them not being able to adjust the ceremonial of
which should go back, sat there, with equal gallantry till two in the
morning, and were both so fully determined to die upon the spot
rather than yield, in a point of that importance, that the street
would never have been cleared till their deaths, if the emperor had
not sent his guards to part them; and even then they refused to stir,
till the expedient could be found out of taking them both out in
chairs, exactly in the same moment. After the ladies were agreed, it
was with some difficulty that the pass was decided between the two
coachmen, no less tenacious of their rank than the ladies. This
passion is so omnipotent in the breasts of the women, that even their
husbands never die but they are ready to break their hearts, because
that fatal hour puts an end to their rank, no widows having any place
at Vienna. The men are not much less touched with this point of
honour, and they do not only scorn to marry, but even to make love to
any woman of a family not as illustrious as their own; and the
pedigree is much more considered by them, than either the complexion
of features of their mistresses. Happy are the she's (sic) that can
number amongst their ancestors, counts of the empire; they have
neither occasion for beauty, money, nor good conduct to get them
husbands. 'Tis true, as to money, 'tis seldom any advantage to the
man they marry; the laws of Austria confine the woman's portion to
two thousand florins (about two hundred pounds English), and whatever
they have beside, remains in their own possession and disposal.
Thus, here are many ladies much richer than their husbands, who are
however obliged to allow them pin-money agreeable to their quality;
and I attribute to this considerable branch of prerogative, the
liberty that they take upon other occasions. I am sure, you, that
know my laziness, and extreme indifference on this subject, will pity
me, entangled amongst all these ceremonies, which are a wonderful
burden to me, though I am the envy of the whole town, having, by
their own customs, the pass before them all. They indeed, so
revenge, upon the poor envoys, this great respect shewn to
ambassadors, that (with all my indifference) I should be very uneasy
to suffer it. Upon days of ceremony they have no entrance at court,
and on other days must content themselves with walking after every
soul, and being the very last taken notice of. But I must write a
volume to let you know all the ceremonies, and I have already said
too much on so dull a subject, which however employs the whole care
of the people here. I need not, after this, tell you how agreeably
time slides away with me; you know as well as I do the taste of,
Your's, &c. &c.
LET. XII.
TO THE LADY X----.
_Vienna, Oct_. 1. O. S. 1716.
YOU desire me, madam, to send you some accounts of the customs here,
and at the same time a description of Vienna. I am always willing to
obey your commands; but you must, upon this occasion, take the will
for the deed. If I should undertake to tell you all the particulars,
in which the manners here differ from ours, I must write a whole
quire of the dullest stuff that ever was read, or printed without
being read. Their dress agrees with the French or English in no one
article, but wearing petticoats. They have many fashions peculiar to
themselves; they think it indecent for a widow ever to wear green or
rose colour, but all the other gayest colours at her own discretion.
The assemblies here are the only regular diversion, the operas being
always at court, and commonly on some particular occasion. Madam
Rabutin has the assembly constantly every night at her house; and the
other ladies, whenever they have a mind to display the magnificence
of their apartments, or oblige a friend by complimenting them on the
day of their saint, they declare, that on such a day the assembly
shall be at their house in honour of the feast of the count or
countess--_such a one_. These days are called days of Gala, and all
the friends or relations of the lady, whose saint it is, are obliged
to appear in their best clothes, and all their jewels. The mistress
of the house takes no particular notice of any body, nor returns any
body's visit; and, whoever pleases, may go, without the formality of
being presented. The company are entertained with ice in several
forms, winter and summer; afterwards they divide into several parties
of ombre, piquet, or conversation, all games of hazard being forbid.
I SAW t'other day the Gala for Count Altheim, the emperor's
favourite, and never in my life saw so many fine clothes ill-fancied.
They embroider the richest gold stuffs; and provided they can make
their clothes expensive enough, that is all the taste they shew in
them. On other days, the general dress is a scarf, and what you
please under it.
BUT now I am speaking of Vienna, I am sure you expect I should say
something of the convents; they are of all sorts and sizes, but I am
best pleased with that of St Lawrence, where the ease and neatness
they seem to live with, appears to be much more edifying than those
stricter orders, where perpetual penance and nastiness must breed
discontent and wretchedness. The Nuns are all of quality. I think
there are to the number of fifty. They have each of them a little
cell perfectly clean, the walls of which are covered with pictures
more or less fine, according to their quality. A long white stone
gallery runs by all of them, furnished With the pictures of exemplary
sisters; the chapel is extremely neat and richly adorned. But I
could not forbear laughing at their shewing me a wooden head of our
Saviour, which, they assured me, spoke during the siege of Vienna;
and, as a proof of it, bid me mark his mouth, which had been open
ever since. Nothing can be more becoming than the dress of these
Nuns. It is a white robe, the sleeves of which are turned up with
fine white callico (sic), and their head-dress the same, excepting a
small veil of black crape that falls behind. They have a lower sort
of serving Nuns, that wait on them as their chambermaids. They
receive all visits of women, and play at ombre in their chambers,
with permission of their abbess, which is very easy to be obtained.
I never saw an old woman so good-natured; she is near fourscore, and
yet shews very little sign of decay, being still lively and
cheerful. She caressed me as if I had been her daughter, giving me
some pretty things of her own work, and sweetmeats in abundance. The
grate is not of the most rigid; it is not very hard to put a head
through, and I don't doubt but a man, a little more slender than
ordinary, might squeeze in his whole person. The young count of
Salamis came to the grate, while I was there, and the abbess gave him
her hand to kiss. But I was surprised to find here, the only
beautiful young woman I have seen at Vienna, and not only beautiful
but genteel, witty, and agreeable, of a great family, and who had
been the admiration of the town. I could not forbear shewing my
surprise at seeing a Nun like her. She made me a thousand obliging
compliments, and desired me to come often. It will be an infinite
pleasure to me, (said she, sighing) but I avoid, with the greatest
care, seeing any of my former acquaintance, and whenever they come to
our convent, I lock myself in my cell. I observed tears come into
her eyes, which touched me extremely, and I began to talk to her in
that strain of tender pity she inspired me with; but she would not
own to me, that she is not perfectly happy. I have since endeavoured
to learn the real cause of her retirement, without being able to get
any other account, but that every body was surprised at it, and no
body guessed the reason. I have been several times to see her; but
it gives me too much melancholy to see so agreeable a young creature
buried alive. I am not surprised that Nuns have so often inspired
violent passions; the pity one naturally feels for them, when they
seem worthy of another destiny, making an easy way for yet more
tender sentiments. I never in my life had so little charity for the
Roman Catholick (sic) religion, as since I see the misery it
occasions; so many poor unhappy women! and then the gross
superstition of the common people, who are some or other of them, day
and night, offering bits of candle to the wooden figures that are set
up almost in every street. The processions I see very often, are a
pageantry, as offensive, and apparently contradictory to common
sense, as the pagods (sic) of China. God knows whether it be the
_womanly_ spirit of contradiction that works in me; but there never
before was such zeal against popery in the heart of,
Dear madam, &c. &c.
LET. XIII.
TO MR ----.
_Vienna, Oct_. O. S. 1716.
I DESERVE not all the reproaches you make me. If I have some time
without answering your letter, it is not, that I don't know how many
thanks are due to you for it; or that I am stupid enough to prefer
any amusements to the pleasure of hearing from you; but after the
professions of esteem you have so obligingly made me, I cannot help
delaying, as long as I can, shewing you that you are mistaken. If
you are sincere, when you say you expect to be extremely entertained
by my letters, I ought to be mortified at the disappointment that I
am sure you will receive when you hear from me; though I have done my
best endeavours to find out something worth writing to you. I have
seen every thing that was to be seen with a very, diligent curiosity.
Here are some fine villas, particularly the late prince of
Litchtenstein's (sic); but the statues are all modern, and the
pictures not of the first hands. 'Tis true, the emperor has some of
great value. I was yesterday to see the repository, which they call
his Treasure, where they seem to have been more diligent in amassing
a great quantity of things, than in the choice of them. I spent
above five hours there, and yet there were very few things that
stopped me long to consider them. But the number is prodigious,
being a very long gallery filled on both sides, and five large rooms.
There is a vast quantity of paintings, amongst which are many fine
miniatures; but the most valuable pictures, are a few of Corregio
(sic), those of Titian being at the Favorita.
THE cabinet of jewels did not appear to me so rich as I expected to
see it. They shewed me here a cup, about the size of a tea dish, of
one entire emerald, which they had so particular a respect for, that
only the emperor has the liberty of touching it. There is a large
cabinet full of curiosities of clock-work, only one of which I
thought worth observing, that was a craw-fish, with all the motions
so natural, that it was hard to distinguish it from the life.
THE next cabinet was a large collection of agates, some of them
extremely beautiful, and of an uncommon size, and several vases of
Lapis Lazuli. I was surprised to see the cabinet of medals so poorly
furnished; I did not remark one of any value, and they are kept in a
most ridiculous disorder. As to the antiques, very few of them
deserve that name. Upon my saying they were modern, I could not
forbear laughing at the answer of the profound antiquary that shewed
them, that _they were ancient enough; for, to his knowledge, they had
been there these forty years_. But the next cabinet diverted me yet
better, being nothing else but a parcel of wax babies, and toys in
ivory, very well worthy to be presented children of five years old.
Two of the rooms were wholly filled with these trifles of all kinds,
set in jewels, amongst which I was desired to observe a crucifix,
that they assured me had spoke very wisely to the emperor Leopold. I
won't trouble you with a catalogue of the rest of the lumber; but I
must not forget to mention a small piece of loadstone that held up an
anchor of steel too heavy for me to lift. This is what I thought
most curious in the whole treasure. There are some few heads of
ancient statues; but several of them are defaced by modern additions.
I foresee that you will be very little satisfied with this letter,
and I dare hardly ask you to be good-natured enough to charge the
dulness (sic) of it on the barrenness of the subject, and to overlook
the stupidity of, Your, &c. &c.
LET. XIV.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Prague, Nov_. 17. O. S. 1716.
I HOPE my dear sister wants no new proofs of my sincere affection for
her: but I am sure, if you do, I could not give you a stronger than
writing at this time, after three days, or, more properly speaking,
three nights and days, hard post-travelling.--The kingdom of Bohemia
is the most desert of any I have seen in Germany. The villages are
so poor, and the post-houses so miserable, that clean straw and fair
water are blessings not always to be met with, and better
accommodation not to be hoped for. Though I carried my own bed with
me, I could not sometimes find a place to set it up in; and I rather
chose to travel all night, as cold as it is, wrapped up in my furs,
than go into the common stoves, which are filled with a mixture of
all sorts of ill scents.
THIS town was once the royal seat of the Bohemian king, and is still
the capital of the kingdom. There are yet some remains of its former
splendour, being one of the largest towns in Germany, but, for the
most part, old built, and thinly inhabited, which makes the houses
very cheap. Those people of quality, who cannot easily bear the
expence of Vienna, chuse to reside here, where they have assemblies,
music, and all other diversions, (those of a court excepted) at very
moderate rates, all things being here in great abundance, especially
the best wild-fowl I ever tasted. I have already been visited by
some of the most considerable ladies, whose relations I know at
Vienna. They are dressed after the fashions there, after the manner
that the people at Exeter imitate those of London; that is, their
imitation is more excessive than the original. 'Tis not easy to
describe what extraordinary figures they make. The person is so much
lost between head-dress and petticoat, that they have as much
occasion to write upon their backs, "_This is a Woman_," for the
information of travellers, as ever sign-post painter had to write,
_"This is a Bear_." I will not forget to write to you again from
Dresden and Leipzig, being much more solicitous to content your
curiosity, than to indulge my own repose. I am, &c.
LET. XV.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Leipzig, Nov_. 21. O. S. 1716.
I BELIEVE, dear sister, you will easily forgive my not writing to you
from Dresden, as I promised, when I tell you, that I never went out
of my chaise from Prague to this place. You may imagine how heartily
I was tired with twenty-four hours post-travelling, without sleep or
refreshment (for I can never sleep in a coach, however fatigued.) We
passed, by moon-shine, the frightful precipices that divide Bohemia
from Saxony, at the bottom, of which runs the river Elbe; but I
cannot say, that I had reason to fear drowning in it, being perfectly
convinced, that in case of a tumble, it was utterly impossible to
come alive to the bottom. In many places, the road is so narrow,
that I could not discern an inch of space between the wheels and the
precipice. Yet I was so good a wife, as not to wake Mr W----y, who
was fast asleep by my side, to make him share in my fears, since the
danger was unavoidable, till I perceived, by the bright light of the
moon, our postilions nodding on horse-back, while the horses were on
a full gallop. Then indeed I thought it very convenient to call out
to desire them to look where they were going. My calling waked (sic)
Mr W----Y, and he was much more surprised than myself at the situation
we were in, and assured me, that he passed the Alps five times in
different places, without ever having gone a road so dangerous. I
have been told since, that 'tis common to find the bodies of
travellers in the Elbe; but, thank God, that was not our destiny; and
we came safe to Dresden, so much tired with fear and fatigue, it was
not possible for me to compose myself to write. After passing these
dreadful rocks, Dresden appeared to me a wonderfully agreeable
situation, in a fine large plain on the banks of the Elbe. I was
very glad to stay there a day to rest myself. The town is the
neatest I have seen in Germany; most of the houses are new built; the
elector's palace is very handsome, and his repository full of
curiosities of different kinds, with a collection of medals very much
esteemed. Sir ----, our king's envoy, came to see me here, and
Madame de L----, whom I knew in London, when her husband was minister
to the king of Poland there. She offered me all things in her power
to entertain me, and brought some ladies with her, whom she presented
to me. The Saxon ladies resemble the Austrian no more than the
Chinese do those of London; they are very genteelly dressed, after
the English and French modes, and have generally pretty faces, but
they are the most determined _minaudieres_ in the whole world. They
would think it a mortal sin against good-breeding, if they either
spoke or moved in a natural manner. They all affect a little soft
lisp, and a pretty pitty-pat step; which female frailties ought,
however, to be forgiven them, in favour of their civility and good
nature to strangers, which I have a great deal of reason to praise.
THE countess of Cozelle is kept prisoner in a melancholy castle, some
leagues from hence; and I cannot forbear telling you what I have
heard of her, because it seems to me very extraordinary, though I
foresee I shall swell my letter to the size of a pacquet.--She was
mistress to the king of Poland, (elector of Saxony) with so absolute
a dominion over him, that never any lady had so much power in that
court. They tell a pleasant story of his majesty's first declaration
of love, which he made in a visit to her, bringing in one hand a bag
of a hundred thousand crowns, and in the other a horse-shoe, which he
snapped asunder before her face, leaving her to draw the consequences
of such remarkable proofs of strength and liberality. I know not
which charmed her most; but she consented to leave her husband, and
to give herself up to him entirely, being divorced publicly, in such
a manner, as, by their laws, permits either party to marry again.
God knows whether it was at this time, or in some other fond fit, but
'tis certain, the king had the weakness to make her a formal contract
of marriage; which, though it could signify nothing during the life
of the queen, pleased her so well, that she could not be contented,
without telling it to all the people she saw, and giving herself the
airs of a queen. Men endure every thing while they are in love; but
when the excess of passion was cooled by long possession, his
majesty began to reflect on the ill consequences of leaving such a
paper in her hands, and desired to have it restored to him. But she
rather chose to endure all the most violent effects of his anger,
than give it up; and though she is one of the richest and most
avaricious ladies of her country, she has refused the offer of the
continuation of a large pension, and the security of a vast sum of
money she has amassed; and has, at last, provoked the king to confine
her person to a castle, where she endures all the terrors of a strait
imprisonment, and remains still inflexible, either to threats or
promises. Her violent passions have brought her indeed into fits,
which 'tis supposed, will soon put an end to her life. I cannot
forbear having some compassion for a woman that suffers for a point
of honour, however mistaken, especially in a country where points of
honour are not over scrupulously observed among ladies.
I COULD have wished Mr W----y's business had permitted him a longer
stay at Dresden.
PERHAPS I am partial to a town where they profess the protestant
religion; but every thing seemed to me with quite another air of
politeness than I have found in other places. Leipzig, where I am at
present, is a town very considerable for its trade, and I take this
opportunity of buying pages liveries, gold stuffs for myself, &c. all
things of that kind being at least double the price at Vienna; partly
because of the excessive customs, and partly through want of genius
and industry in the people, who make no one sort of thing there; so
that the ladies are obliged to send, even for their shoes, out of
Saxony. The fair here is one of the most considerable in Germany,
and the resort of all the people of quality, as well as of the
merchants. This is also a fortified town, but I avoid ever
mentioning fortifications, being sensible that I know not how to
speak of them. I am the more easy Under my ignorance, when I reflect
that I am sure you'll willingly forgive the omission; for if I made
you the most exact description of all the ravelins and bastions I see
in my travels, I dare swear you would ask me, What is a ravelin? and,
What is a bastion?
Adieu, my dear sister.
LET. XVI.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Brunswick, Nov_. 23. O. S. 1716.
I AM just come to Brunswick, a very old town, but which has the
advantage of being the capital of the duke of Wolsenbuttle's
dominions, a family (not to speak of its ancient honours)
illustrious, by having its younger branch on the throne of England,
and having given two empresses to Germany. I have not forgot to
drink your health here in mum, which I think very well deserves its
reputation of being the best in the world. This letter is the third
I have writ to you during my journey; and I declare to you, that if
you don't send me immediately a full and true account of all the
changes and chances among our London acquaintance, I will not write
you any description of Hanover (where I hope to be to-night) though I
know you have more curiosity to hear of that place than any other.
LET. XVII.
TO THE COUNTESS OF B----.
_Hanover, Nov_. 25. O. S. 1716.
I RECEIVED your ladyship's letter, but the day before I left Vienna,
though, by the date, I ought to have had it much sooner; but nothing
was ever worse regulated than the post in most parts of Germany.
I can assure you, the pacquet at Prague was behind my chaise, and in
that manner conveyed to Dresden, so that the secrets of half the
country were at my mercy, if I had had any curiosity for them. I
would not longer delay my thanks for yours, though the number of my
acquaintances here, and my duty of attending at court, leave me
hardly any time to dispose of. I am extremely pleased that I can
tell you, without flattery or partiality, that our young prince
[Footnote: The father of his present Majesty.] has all the
accomplishments that 'tis possible to have at his age, with an air of
sprightliness and understanding, and something so very engaging and
easy in his behaviour, that he needs not the advantage of his rank to
appear charming. I had the honour of a long conversation with him
last night, before the king came in. His governor retired on purpose
(as he told me afterwards) that I might make some judgment of his
genius, by hearing him speak without constraint; and I was surprised
at the quickness and politeness that appeared in every thing he said;
joined to a person perfectly agreeable, and the fine fair hair of the
princess.
THIS town is neither large nor handsome; but the palace is capable of
holding a much greater court than that of St James's. The king has
had the goodness to appoint us a lodging in one part of it, without
which we should have been very ill accommodated; for the vast number
of English, crowds the town so much, 'tis very good luck to get one
sorry room in a miserable tavern. I dined to-day with the Portuguese
ambassador, who thinks himself very happy to have two wretched
parlours in an inn. I have now made the tour of Germany, and cannot
help observing a considerable difference between travelling here and
in England. One sees none of those fine seats of noblemen, so common
amongst us, nor any thing like a country gentleman's house, though
they have many situations perfectly fine. But the whole people are
divided into absolute sovereignties, where all the riches and
magnificence are at Court, or into communities of merchants, such as
Nurenburg (sic) and Frankfort, where they live always in town for the
convenience of trade. The king's company of French comedians play
here every night. They are very well dressed, and some of them not
ill actors. His majesty dines and sups constantly in public. The
court is very numerous, and his affability and goodness make it one
of the most agreeable places in the world.
Dear madam, your, &c. &c.
LET. XVIII.
TO THE LADY R----.
_Hanover, Oct_. 1. O. S. 1716.
I AM very glad, my dear lady R----, that you have been so well
pleased, as you tell me, at the report of my returning to England;
though, like other pleasures, I can assure you it has no real
foundation. I hope you know me enough to take my word against any
report concerning me. 'Tis true, as to distance of place, I am much
nearer to London than I was some weeks ago; but, as to the thoughts
of a return, I never was farther off in my life. I own, I could with
great joy indulge the pleasing hopes of seeing you, and the very few
others that share my esteem; but while Mr W---- is determined to
proceed in his design, I am determined to follow him. I am running
on upon my own affairs, that is to say, I am going to write very
dully, as most people do when they write of themselves. I will make
haste to change the disagreeable subject, by telling you, that I am
now got into the region of beauty. All the women have (literally)
rosy cheeks, snowy foreheads and bosoms, jet eye-brows, and scarlet
lips, to which they generally add coal-black hair. Those perfections
never leave them, till the hour of their deaths, and have a very fine
effect by candle light; but I could wish they were handsome with a
little more variety. They resemble one another as much as Mrs
Salmon's court of Great Britain, and are in as much danger of melting
away, by too near approaching the fire, which they for that reason
carefully avoid, though 'tis now such excessive cold weather, that I
believe they suffer extremely by that piece of self-denial. The snow
is already very deep, and the people begin to slide about in their
traineaus. This is a favourite diversion all over Germany. They are
little machines fixed upon a sledge, that hold a lady and gentleman,
and are drawn by one horse. The gentleman has the honour of driving,
and they move with a prodigious swiftness. The lady, the horse, and
the traineau, are all as fine as they can be made; and when there are
many of them together, 'tis a very agreeable show. At Vienna, where
all pieces of magnificence are carried to excess, there are sometimes
machines of this kind, that cost five or six hundred pounds English.
The duke of Wolfenbuttle is now at this court; you know he is nearly
related to our king, and uncle to the reigning empress, who is, I
believe, the most beautiful princess upon earth. She is now with
child, which is all the consolation of the imperial court, for the
loss of the archduke. I took my leave of her the day before I left
Vienna, and she began to speak to me with so much grief and
tenderness, of the death of that young prince, I had much ado to
withhold my tears. You know that I am not at all partial to people
for their titles; but I own, that I love that charming princess, (if
I may use so familiar an expression) and if I had not, I should have
been very much moved at the tragical end of an only son, born, after
being so long desired, and at length killed by want of good
management, weaning him in the beginning of the winter. Adieu, dear
lady R----; continue to write to me, and believe none of your
goodness is lost upon Your, &c.
LET. XIX.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Blankenburg, OCT_. 17. O. S. 1716.
I RECEIVED your's, dear sister, the very day I left Hanover. You may
easily imagine I was then in too great a hurry to answer it; but you
see I take the first opportunity of doing myself that pleasure. I
came here the 15th, very late at night, after a terrible journey, in
the worst roads and weather that ever poor traveller suffered. I
have taken this little fatigue merely to oblige the reigning empress,
and carry a message from her imperial majesty to the duchess of
Blankenburg, her mother, who is a princess of great address and
good-breeding, and may be still called a fine woman. It was so late
when I came to this town, I did not think it proper to disturb the
duke and duchess with the news of my arrival; so I took up my
quarters in a miserable inn: but as soon as I had sent my compliments
to their highnesses, they immediately sent me their own coach and six
horses, which had however enough to do to draw us up the very high
hill on which the castle is situated. The duchess is extremely
obliging to me, and this little court is not without its diversions.
The duke taillys (sic) at basset every night; and the duchess tells
me, she is so well pleased with my company, that it makes her play
less than she used to do. I should find it very difficult to steal
time to write, if she was not now at church, where I cannot wait on
her, not understanding the language enough to pay my devotions in it.
You will not forgive me, if I do not say something of Hanover; I
cannot tell you that the town is either large or magnificent. The
opera house, which was built by the late elector, is much finer than
that of Vienna. I was very sorry that the ill weather did not permit
me to see Hernhausen in all its beauty; but in spite of the snow, I
thought the gardens very fine. I was particularly surprised at the
vast number of orange trees, much larger than any I have ever seen in
England, though this climate is certainly colder. But I had more
reason to wonder that night at the king's table, to see a present
from a gentleman of this country, of two large baskets full of ripe
oranges and lemons of different sorts, many of which were quite new
to me; and what I thought worth all the rest, two ripe ananasses
(sic), which, to my taste, are a fruit perfectly delicious. You know
they are naturally the growth of Brazil, and I could not imagine how
they came here, but by enchantment. Upon inquiry, I learnt that they
have brought their stoves to such perfection, they lengthen their
summer as long as they please, giving to every plant the degree of
heat it would receive from the sun in its native soil. The effect is
very near the same; I am surprised we do not practise (sic) in
England so useful an invention. This reflection leads me to consider
our obstinacy in shaking with cold, five months in the year rather
than make use of stoves, which are certainly one of the greatest
conveniencies (sic) of life. Besides, they are so far from spoiling
the form of a room, that they add very much to the magnificence of
it, when they are painted and gilt, as they are at Vienna, or at
Dresden, where they are often in the shapes of china jars, statues,
or fine cabinets, so naturally represented, that they are not to be
distinguished. If ever I return, in defiance to the fashion, you
shall certainly see one in the chamber of, Dear sister, your, &c.
I WILL write often, since you desire it: but I must beg you to be a
little more particular in your's; you fancy me at forty miles
distance, and forget, that, after so long an absence, I can't
understand hints.
LET. XX.
TO THE LADY ----.
_Vienna, Jan_. 1. O. S. 1717
I HAVE just received here at Vienna, your ladyship's compliments on
my return to England, sent me from Hanover. You see, madam, all
things that are asserted with confidence are not absolutely true; and
that you have no sort of reason to complain of me for making my
designed return a mystery to you, when you say, all the world are
informed of it. You may tell all the world in my name, that they are
never so well informed of my affairs as I am myself; that I am very
positive I am at this time at Vienna, where the carnival is begun,
and all sorts of diversions are carried to the greatest height,
except that of masquing (sic), which is never permitted during a war
with the Turks. The balls are in public places, where the men pay a
gold ducat at entrance, but the ladies nothing. I am told, that
these houses get sometimes a thousand ducats in a night. They are
very magnificently furnished, and the music good, if they had not
that detestible (sic) custom of mixing hunting horns with it, that
almost deafen the company. But that noise is so agreeable here, they
never make a concert without them. The ball always concludes with
English country dances, to the number of thirty or forty couple, and
so ill danced, that there is very little pleasure in them. They know
but half a dozen, and they have danced them over and over these fifty
years: I would fain have taught them some new ones, but I found it
would be some months labour to make them comprehend them. Last night
there was an Italian comedy acted at court. The scenes were pretty,
but the comedy itself such intolerable low farce, without either wit
or humour, that I was surprised how all the court could sit there
attentively for four hours together. No women are suffered to act on
the stage, and the men dressed like them, were such awkward figures,
they very much added to the ridicule of the spectacle. What
completed the diversion, was the excessive cold, which was so great,
I thought I should have died there. It is now the very extremity of
the winter here; the Danube is entirely frozen, and the weather not
to be supported without stoves and furs; but, however, the air so
clear, almost every body is well, and colds not half so common as in
England. I am persuaded there cannot be a purer air, nor more
wholesome, than that of Vienna. The plenty and excellence of all
sorts of provisions are greater here than in any place I ever was
before, and 'tis not very expensive to keep a splendid table. 'Tis
really a pleasure to pass through the markets, and see the abundance
of what we should think rarities, of fowls and venison, that are
daily brought in from Hungary and Bohemia. They want nothing but
shell-fish, and are so fond of oysters, that they have them sent from
Venice, and eat them very greedily, stink or not stink. Thus I obey
your commands, madam, in giving you an account of Vienna, though I
know you will not be satisfied with it. You chide me for my
laziness, in not telling you a thousand agreeable and surprising
things, that you say you are sure I have seen and heard. Upon my
Word, madam, 'tis my regard to truth, and not laziness, that I do not
entertain you with as many prodigies as other travellers use to
divert their readers with. I might easily pick up wonders in every
town I pass through, or tell you a long series of popish miracles;
but I cannot fancy, that there is any thing new in letting you know
that priests will lie, and the mob believe, all the world over. Then
as for news, that you are so inquisitive about, how can it be
entertaining to you (that don't know the people) that the prince
of ---- has forsaken the countess of ----? or that the prince such a
one, has an intrigue with the countess such a one? Would you have me
write novels like the countess of D'----? and is it not better to
tell you a plain truth, That I am, &c.
LET. XXI.
To THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Vienna, Jan_. 16. O. S. 1717.
I AM now, dear sister, to take leave of you for a long time, and of
Vienna for ever; designing to-morrow, to begin my journey through
Hungary, in spite of the excessive cold, and deep snows, which are
enough to damp a greater courage than I am mistress of. But my
principles of _passive obedience_, carries me through every thing. I
have had my audience of leave of the empress. His imperial majesty
was pleased to be present, when I waited on the reigning empress;
and, after a very obliging conversation, both their imperial
majesties invited me to take Vienna in my road back; but I have no
thoughts of enduring, over again, so great a fatigue. I delivered a
letter from the duchess of Blankenburg. I stayed but a few days at
that court, though her highness pressed me very much to stay; and
when I left her, engaged me to write to her. I wrote you a long
letter from thence, which I hope you have received, though you don't
mention it; but I believe I forgot to tell you one curiosity in all
the German courts, which I cannot forbear taking notice of: All the
princes keep favourite dwarfs. The emperor and empress have two of
these little monsters, as ugly as devils, especially the female; but
they are all bedaubed with diamonds, and stand at her majesty's
elbow, in all public places. The duke of Wolfenbuttle has one, and
the duchess of Blankenburg is not without hers, but indeed the most
proportionable I ever saw. I am told the king of Denmark has so far
improved upon this fashion, that his dwarf is his chief minister. I
can assign no reason for their fondness for these pieces of
deformity, but the opinion all the absolute princes have, that it is
below them to converse with the rest of mankind; and not to be quite
alone, they are forced to seek their companions among the refuse of
human nature, these creatures being the only part of their court
privileged to talk freely to them. I am at present confined to my
chamber by a sore throat; and am really glad of the excuse, to avoid
seeing people, that I love well enough, to be very much mortified
when I think I am going to part with them for ever. 'Tis true, the
Austrians are not commonly the most polite people in the world, nor
the most agreeable. But Vienna is inhabited by all nations, and I
had formed to myself a little society of such as were perfectly to my
own taste. And though the number was not very great, I could never
pick up, in any other place, such a number of reasonable, agreeable
people. We were almost always together, and you know I have ever
been of opinion, that a chosen conversation, composed of a few that
one esteems, is the greatest happiness of life. Here are some
Spaniards of both sexes, that have all the vivacity and generosity of
sentiments anciently ascribed to their nation; and could I believe
that the whole kingdom were like them, I would with nothing more
than to end my days there. The ladies of my acquaintance have so
much goodness for me, they cry whenever they see me, since I have
determined to undertake this journey. And, indeed, I am not very
easy when I reflect on what I am going to suffer. Almost every body
I see frights me with some new difficulty. Prince Eugene has been so
good as to say all the things he could, to persuade me to stay till
the Danube is thawed, that I may have the conveniency of going by
water; assuring me, that the houses in Hungary are such, as are no
defence against the weather; and that I shall be obliged to travel
three or four days between Buda and Essek, without finding any house
at all, through desert plains covered with snow; where the cold is so
violent, many have been killed by it. I own these terrors have made
a very deep impression on my mind, because I believe he tells me
things truly as they are, and no body can be better informed of them.
NOW I have named that great man, I am sure you expect I should say
Something particular of him, having the advantage of seeing him very
often; but I am as unwilling to speak of him at Vienna, as I should
be to talk of Hercules in the court of Omphale, if I had seen him
there. I don't know what comfort other people find in considering
the weakness of great men, (because, perhaps, it brings them nearer
to their level) but 'tis always a mortification to me, to observe
that there is no perfection in humanity. The young prince of
Portugal is the admiration of the whole court; he is handsome and
polite, with a great vivacity. All the officers tell wonders of his
gallantry the last campaign. He is lodged at court with all the
honours due to his rank.--Adieu, dear sister: this is the last
account you will have from me of Vienna. If I survive my journey,
you shall hear from me again. I can say, with great truth, in the
words of Moneses (sic), _I have long learnt to hold myself as
nothing_; but when I think of the fatigue my poor infant must suffer,
I have all a mother's fondness in my eyes, and all her tender
passions in my heart.
_P. S._ I have written a letter to my lady ----, that I believe she
won't like; and, upon cooler reflection, I think I had done better to
have let it alone; but I was downright peevish at all her questions,
and her ridiculous imagination, that I have certainly seen abundance
of wonders which I keep to myself out of mere malice. She is very
angry that I won't lie like other travellers. I verily believe she
expects I should tell her of the _Anthropophagi_, men whose heads
grow below their shoulders; however, pray say Something to pacify
her.
LET. XXII.
TO MR POPE.
_Vienna, Jan_. 16. O. S. 1717.
I HAVE not time to answer your letter, being in the hurry of
preparing for my journey; but, I think, I ought to bid adieu to my
friends with the same solemnity as if I was going to mount a breach,
at least, if I am to believe the information of the people here, who
denounce all sorts of terrors to me; and, indeed, the weather is at
present such, as very few ever set out in. I am threatened at the
same time, with being frozen to death, buried in the snow, and taken
by the Tartars, who ravage that part of Hungary I am to pass. 'Tis
true, we shall have a considerable _escorte_ (sic), so that possibly
I may be diverted with a new scene, by finding myself in the midst of
a battle. How my adventures will conclude, I leave entirely to
Providence; if comically, you shall hear of them.--Pray be so good as
to tell Mr ---- I have received his letter. Make him my adieus; if I
live, I will answer it. The same compliment to my lady R----.
LET. XXIII.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Peterwaradin, Jan_. 30. O. S. 1717.
AT length, dear sister I am safely arrived, with all my family, in
good health, at Peterwaradin; having suffered so little from the
rigour of the season, (against which we were well provided by furs)
and found such tolerable accommodation every where, by the care of
sending before, that I can hardly forbear laughing, when I recollect
all the frightful ideas that were given me of this journey. These, I
see, were wholly owing to the tenderness of my Vienna friends, and
their desire of keeping me with them for this winter. Perhaps it
will not be disagreeable to you, to give a short journal of my
journey, being through a country entirely unknown to you, and very
little passed, even by the Hungarians themselves, who generally chuse
to take the conveniency of going down the Danube. We have had the
blessing of being favoured with finer weather than is common at this
time of the year; though the snow was so deep, we were obliged to
have our own coaches fixed upon traineaus, which move so swift and so
easily, 'tis by far the most agreeable manner of travelling post. We
came to Raab (the second day from Vienna) on the seventeenth instant,
where Mr W---- sending word of our arrival to the governor, the best
house in the town was provided for us, the garrison put under arms, a
guard ordered at our door, and all other honours paid to us. The
governor, and all other officers immediately waited on Mr W----, to
know if there was any thing to be done for his service. The bishop
of Temeswar came to visit us, with great civility, earnestly pressing
us to dine with him next day; which we refusing, as being resolved to
pursue our journey, he sent us several baskets of winter fruit, and a
great variety of Hungarian wines, with a young hind just killed.
This is a prelate of great power in this country, of the ancient
family of Nadasti, so considerable for many ages, in this kingdom.
He is a very polite, agreeable, cheerful old man, wearing the
Hungarian habit, with a venerable white beard down to his
girdle.--Raab is a strong town, well garrisoned and fortified, and
was a long time the frontier town between the Turkish and German
empires. It has its name from the River Rab, on which it is
situated, just on its meeting with the Danube, in an open champaign
(sic) country. It was first taken by the Turks, under the command of
bassa Sinan, in the reign of sultan Amurath III. in the year fifteen
hundred and ninety-four. The governor, being supposed to have
betrayed it, was afterwards beheaded by the emperor's command. The
counts of Swartzenburg; and Palsi retook it by surprise, 1598; since
which time it has remained in the hands of the Germans, though the
Turks once more attempted to gain it by stratagem in 1642. The
cathedral is large and well built, which is all I saw remarkable in
the town. Leaving Comora on the other side the river, we went the
eighteenth to Nosmuhl, a small village, where however, we made shift
to find tolerable accommodation. We continued two days travelling
between this place and Buda, through the finest plains in the world,
as even as if they were paved, and extremely fruitful; but for the
most part desert and uncultivated, laid waste by the long wars
between the Turk and the Emperor; and the more cruel civil war,
occasioned by the barbarous persecution of the protestant religion by
the emperor Leopold. That prince has left behind him the character
of an extraordinary piety, and was naturally of a mild merciful
temper; but, putting his conscience into the hands of a Jesuit, he
was more cruel and treacherous to his poor Hungarian subjects, than
ever the Turk has been to the Christians; breaking, without scruple
his coronation oath, and his faith, solemnly given in many public
treaties. Indeed, nothing can be more melancholy than in travelling
through Hungary, to reflect on the former flourishing state of that
kingdom, and to see such a noble spot of earth almost uninhabited.
Such are also the present circumstances of Buda (where we arrived
very early the twenty-second) once the royal seat of the Hungarian
kings, whose palace was reckoned one of the most beautiful buildings
of the age, now wholly destroyed, no part of the town having been
repaired since the last siege, but the fortifications and the castle,
which is the present residence of the governor general Ragule, an
officer of great merit. He came immediately to see us, and carried
us in his coach to his house, where I was received by his lady with
all possible civility, and magnificently entertained. This city is
situated upon a little hill on the south side of the Danube. The
castle is much higher than the town, and from it the prospect is very
noble. Without the walls ly (sic) a vast number of little houses, or
rather huts, that they call the Rascian town, being altogether
inhabited by that people. The governor assured me, it would furnish
twelve thousand fighting men. These towns look very odd; their
houses stand in rows, many thousands of them so close together, that
they appear, at a little distance, like old-fashioned thatched tents.
They consist, every one of them, of one hovel above, and another
under ground; these are their summer and winter apartments. Buda was
first taken by Solyman the Magnificent, in 1526, and lost the
following year to Ferdinand I, king of Bohemia. Solyman regained it
by the treachery of the garrison, and voluntarily gave it into the
hands of king John of Hungary; after whose death, his son being an
infant, Ferdinand laid siege to it, and the queen mother was forced
to call Solyman to her aid. He indeed raised the siege, but left a
Turkish garrison in the town, and commanded her to remove her court
from thence, which she was forced to submit to, in 1541. It resisted
afterwards the sieges laid to it by the marquis of Brandenburg, in
the year 1542; count Schwartzenburg, in 1598; General Rosworm, in
1602; and the duke of Lorrain, commander of the emperor's
forces, in 1684, to whom it yielded, in 1686, after an obstinate
defence, Apti Bassa, the governor, being killed, fighting in the
breach with a Roman bravery. The loss of this town was so important,
and so much resented by the Turks, that it occasioned the deposing of
their emperor Mahomet IV. the year following.
WE did not proceed on our journey till the twenty-third, when we
passed through Adam and Todowar, both considerable towns, when in the
hands of the Turks, but now quite ruined. The remains, however, of
some Turkish towns, shew something of what they have been. This part
of the country is very much overgrown with wood, and little
frequented. 'Tis incredible what vast numbers of wild-fowl we saw,
which often live here to a good old age,--and _undisturb'd by guns,
in quiet sleep_.--We came the five and twentieth, to Mohatch, and
were shewed the field near it, where Lewis, the young king of Hungary
lost his army and his life, being drowned in a ditch, trying to fly
from Balybeus, general of Solyman the Magnificent. This battle
opened the first passage for the Turks into the heart of Hungary.--I
don't name to you the little villages, of which I can say nothing
remarkable; but I'll assure you, I have always found a warm stove,
and great plenty, particularly of wild boar, venison, and all kinds
of _gibier_. The few people that inhabit Hungary, live easily
enough; they have no money, but the woods and plains afford them
provision in great abundance; they were ordered to give us all things
necessary, even what horses we pleased to demand, _gratis_; but Mr
W----y would not oppress the poor country people, by making use of
this order, and always paid them to the full worth of what we had.
They were so surprised at this unexpected generosity, which they are
very little used to, that they always pressed upon us, at parting, a
dozen of fat pheasants, or something of that sort, for a present.
Their dress is very primitive, being only a plain sheep's skin, and a
cap and boots of the same stuff. You may easily imagine this lasts
them many winters; and thus they have very little occasion for money.
The twenty-sixth, we passed over the frozen Danube, with all our
equipage and carriages. We met on the other side general Veterani,
who invited us, with great civility, to pass the night at a little
castle of his, a few miles off, assuring us we should have a very
hard day's journey to reach Essek. This we found but too true, the
woods being very dangerous, and scarce passable, from the vast
quantity of wolves that hoard in them. We came, however, safe,
though late to Essek, where we stayed a day, to dispatch a courier
with letters to the bassa of Belgrade; and I took that opportunity of
seeing the town, which is not very large, but fair built, and well
fortified. This was a town of great trade, very rich and populous,
when in the hands of the Turks. It is situated on the Drave, which
runs into the Danube. The bridge was esteemed one of the most
extraordinary in the world, being eight thousand paces long, and all
built of oak. It was burnt, and the city laid in ashes by count
Lesly, 1685, but was again repaired and fortified by the Turks, who,
however, abandoned it in 1687. General Dunnewalt then took
possession of it for the emperor, in whose hands it has remained ever
since, and is esteemed one of the bulwarks of Hungary. The
twenty-eighth, we went to Bocorwar, a very large Rascian town, all
built after the manner I have described to you. We were met there by
colonel ----, who would not suffer us to go any where but to his
quarters, where I found his wife, a very agreeable Hungarian lady,
and his niece and daughter, two pretty young women, crowded into
three or four Rascian houses, cast into one, and made as neat and
convenient as those places are capable of being made. The Hungarian
ladies are much handsomer than those of Austria. All the Vienna
beauties are of that country; they are generally very fair and
well-shaped, and their dress, I think, is extremely becoming. This
lady was in a gown of scarlet velvet, lined and faced with sables,
made exact to her shape, and the skirt falling to her feet. The
sleeves are strait to their arms, and the stays buttoned before, with
two rows of little buttons of gold, pearl, or diamonds. On their
heads they wear a tassel of gold, that hangs low on one side, lined
with sable, or some other fine fur.---They gave us a handsome dinner,
and I thought the conversation very polite and agreeable. They would
accompany us part of our way. The twenty-ninth, we arrived here,
where we were met by the commanding officer, at the head of all the
officers of the garrison. We are lodged in the best apartment of the
governor's house, and entertained in a very splendid manner by the
emperor's order. We wait here till all points are adjusted,
concerning our reception on the Turkish frontiers. Mr W----'s
courier, which he sent from Essek, returned this morning, with the
bassa's answer in a purse of scarlet satin, which the interpreter
here has translated. 'Tis to promise him to be honourably received.
I desired him to appoint where he would be met by the Turkish
convoy.--He has dispatched the courier back, naming Betsko, a village
in the midway between Peterwaradin and Belgrade. We shall stay here
till we receive his answer.--Thus, dear sister, I have given you a
very particular, and (I am afraid you'll think) a tedious account of
this part of my travels. It was not an affectation of shewing my
reading that has made me tell you some little scraps of the history
of the towns I have passed through; I have always avoided any thing
of that kind, when I spoke Of places that I believe you knew the
story of as well as myself. But Hungary being a part of the world,
which I believe quite new to you, I thought you might read with some
pleasure an account of it, which I have been very solicitous to get
from the best hands. However, if you don't like it, 'tis in your
power to forbear reading it. I am, dear sister, &c.
I AM promised to have this letter carefully sent to Vienna.
LET. XXIV.
TO MR POPE.
_Belgrade, Feb_. 12. O. S. 1717.
I DID verily intend to write you a long letter from Peterwaradin,
where I expected to stay three or four days; but the bassa here was
in such haste to see us, that he dispatched the courier back (which
Mr W---- had sent to know the time he would send the convoy to meet
us) without suffering him to pull off his boots. My letters were not
thought important enough to stop our journey; and we left
Peterwaradin the next day, being waited on by the chief officers of
the garrison, and a considerable convoy of Germans and Rascians. The
emperor has several regiments of these people; but, to say the truth,
they are rather plunderers than soldiers; having no pay, and being
obliged to furnish their own arms and horses; they rather look like
vagabond gypsies, or stout beggars, than regular troops. I cannot
forbear speaking a word of this race of creatures, who are very
numerous all over Hungary. They have a patriarch of their own at
Grand Cairo, and are really of the Greek church; but their extreme
ignorance gives their priests occasion to impose several new notions
upon them. These fellows, letting their hair and beard grow
inviolate, make exactly the figure of the Indian bramins (sic). They
are heirs-general to all the money of the laity; for which, in
return, they give them formal passports signed and sealed for heaven;
and the wives and children only inherit the house and cattle. In
most other points they follow the Greek church.--This little
digression has interrupted my telling you we passed over the fields
of Carlowitz, where the last great victory was obtained by prince
Eugene over the Turks. The marks of that glorious bloody day are yet
recent, the field being yet strewed with the skulls and carcasses of
unburied men, horses, and camels. I could not look, without horror,
on such numbers of mangled human bodies, nor without reflecting on
the injustice of war, that makes murder not only necessary but
meritorious. Nothing seems to be a plainer proof of the
_irrationality_ of mankind (whatever fine claims we pretend to
reason) than the rage with which they contest for a small spot of
ground, when such vast parts of fruitful earth lie quite uninhabited.
'Tis true, custom has now made it unavoidable; but can there be a
greater demonstration of want of reason, than a custom being firmly
established, so plainly contrary to the interest of man in general?
I am a good deal inclined to believe Mr Hobbs, that the _state of
nature_ is a _state of war_; but thence I conclude human nature, not
rational, if the word reason means common sense, as I suppose it
does. I have a great many admirable arguments to support this
refection; I won't however trouble you with them, but return, in a
plain style, to the history of my travels.
WE were met at Betsko (a village in the midway between Belgrade and
Peterwaradin) by an aga of the janizaries, with a body of Turks,
exceeding the Germans by one hundred men, though the bassa had
engaged to send exactly the same number. You may judge by this of
their fears. I am really persuaded, that they hardly thought the
odds of one hundred men set them even with the Germans; however, I
was very uneasy till they were parted, fearing some quarrel might
arise, notwithstanding the parole given. We came late to Belgrade,
the deep snows making the ascent to it very difficult. It seems a
strong city, fortified on the east side by the Danube; and on the
south by the river Save, and was formerly the barrier of Hungary. It
was first taken by Solyman the Magnificent, and since by the
emperor's forces, led by the elector of Bavaria. The emperor held it
only two Years, it being retaken by the grand vizier. It is now
fortified with the utmost care and skill the Turks are capable of,
and strengthened by a very numerous garrison of their bravest
janizaries, commanded by a bassa seraskier (i.e. general) though this
last expression is not very just; for, to say truth, the seraskier is
commanded by the janizaries. These troops have an absolute authority
here, and their conduct carries much more the aspect of rebellion,
than the appearance of subordination. You may judge of this by the
following story, which, at the same time, will give you an idea of
the _admirable_ intelligence of the governor of Peterwaradin, though
so few hours distant. We were told by him at Peterwaradin, that the
garrison and inhabitants of Belgrade were so weary of the war, they
had killed their bassa about two months ago, in a mutiny, because he
had suffered himself to be prevailed upon, by a bribe of five purses
(five hundred pounds sterling) to give permission to the Tartars to
ravage the German frontiers. We were very well pleased to hear of
such favourable dispositions in the people; but when we came hither,
we found the governor had been ill-informed, and the real truth of
the story to be this. The late bassa fell under the displeasure of
his soldiers; for no other reason, but restraining their incursions
on the Germans. They took it into their heads, from that mildness,
that he had intelligence with the enemy, and sent such information to
the grand signior at Adrianople; but, redress not coming quick enough
from thence, they assembled themselves in a tumultuous manner, and by
force dragged their bassa before the cadi and mufti, and there
demanded justice in a mutinous way; one crying out, Why he protected
the infidels? Another, Why he squeezed them of their money? The
bassa easily guessing their purpose, calmly replied to them, that
they asked him too many questions, and that he had but one life,
which must answer for all. They then immediately fell upon him with
their scimitars (without waiting the sentence of their heads of the
law) and in a few moments cut him in pieces. The present bassa has
not dared to punish the murder; on the contrary, he affected to
applaud the actors of it, as brave fellows, that knew to do
themselves justice. He takes all pretences of throwing money among
the garrison, and suffers them to make little excursions into
Hungary, where they burn some poor Rascian houses.
You may imagine, I cannot be very easy in a town which is really
under the government of an insolent soldiery.--We expected to be
immediately dismissed, after a night's lodging here, but the bassa
detains us till he receives orders from Adrianople, which may,
possibly be a month a-coming. In the mean time, we are lodged in one
of the best houses, belonging to a very considerable man amongst
them, and have a whole chamber of janizaries to guard us. My only
diversion is the conversation of our host, Achmet Beg, a title
something like that of count in Germany. His father was a great
bassa, and he has been educated in the most polite eastern learning,
being perfectly skilled in the Arabic and Persian languages, and an
extraordinary scribe, which they call _effendi_. This accomplishment
makes way to the greatest preferments; but he has had the good sense
to prefer an easy, quiet, secure life, to all the dangerous honours
of the Porte. He sups with us every night, and drinks wine very
freely. You cannot imagine how much he is delighted with the liberty
of conversing with me. He has explained to me many pieces of Arabian
poetry, which, I observe, are in numbers not unlike ours, generally
of an alternate verse, and of a very musical sound. Their
expressions of love are very passionate and lively. I am so much
pleased with them, I really believe I should learn to read Arabic, if
I was to stay here a few months. He has a very good library of their
books of all kinds; and, as he tells me, spends the greatest part of
his life there. I pass for a great scholar with him, by relating to
him some of the Persian tales, which I find are genuine. At first he
believed I understood Persian. I have frequent disputes with him
concerning the difference of our customs, particularly the
confinement of women. He assures me, there is nothing at all in it;
only, says he, we have the advantage, that when our wives cheat us,
nobody knows it. He has wit, and is more polite than many Christian
men of quality. I am very much entertained with him.--He has had the
curiosity to make one of our servants set him an alphabet of our
letters, and can already write a good Roman hand. But these
amusements do not hinder my wishing heartily to be out of this place;
though the weather is colder than I believe it ever was, any where,
but in Greenland.--We have a very large stove constantly kept hot,
and yet the windows of the room are frozen on the inside.--God knows
when I may have an opportunity of sending this letter: but I have
written it, for the discharge of my own conscience and you cannot now
reproach me, that one of yours makes ten of mine. Adieu.
LET. XXV.
To HER R. H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES
[Footnote: The late Queen Caroline.]
_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717.
I HAVE now, madam, finished a journey that has not been undertaken by
any Christian since the time of the Greek emperors: and I shall not
regret all the fatigues I have suffered in it, if it gives me an
opportunity of amusing your R. H. by an account of places utterly
unknown amongst us; the emperor's ambassadors, and those few English
that have come hither, always going on the Danube to Nicopolis. But
the river was now frozen, and Mr W---- was so zealous for the service
of his Majesty, that he would not defer his journey to wait for the
conveniency of that passage. We crossed the deserts of Servia (sic),
almost quite over-grown with wood, through a country naturally
fertile. The inhabitants are industrious; but the oppression of the
peasants is so great, they are forced to abandon their houses, and
neglect their tillage, all they have being a prey to the janizaries,
whenever they please to seize upon it. We had a guard of five
hundred of them, and I was almost in tears every day, to see their
insolencies (sic) in the poor villages through which we
passed.--After seven days travelling through thick woods, we came to
Nissa, once the capital of Servia, situated in a fine plain on the
river Nissava, in a very good air, and so fruitful a soil, that the
great plenty is hardly credible. I was certainly assured, that the
quantity of wine last vintage was so prodigious, that they were
forced to dig holes in the earth to put it in, not having vessels
enough in the town to hold it. The happiness of this plenty is
scarce perceived by the oppressed people. I saw here a new occasion
for my compassion. The wretches that had provided twenty waggons for
our baggage from Belgrade hither for a certain hire, being all sent
back without payment, some of their horses lamed (sic), and others
killed, without any satisfaction made for them. The poor fellows
came round the house weeping and tearing their hair and beards in a
most pitiful manner, without getting any thing but drubs from the
insolent soldiers. I cannot express to your R. H. how much I was
moved at this scene. I would have paid them the money out of my own
pocket, with all my heart; but it Would only have been giving so much
to the aga, who would have taken it from them without any remorse.
After four days journey from this place over the mountains, we came
to Sophia, situated in a large beautiful plain on the river Isca, and
surrounded with distant mountains. 'Tis hardly possible to see a
more agreeable landscape. The city itself is very large, and
extremely populous. Here are hot baths, very famous for their
medicinal virtues.--Four days journey from hence we arrived at
Philippopolis, after having passed the ridges between the mountains
of Haemus and Rhodope, which are always covered with snow. This town
is situated on a rising ground near the river Hebrus, and is almost
wholly inhabited by Greeks; here are still some ancient Christian
churches. They have a bishop; and several Of the richest Greeks live
here; but they are forced to conceal their wealth with great care,
the appearance of poverty [which includes part of its inconveniencies
(sic)] being all their security against feeling it in earnest. The
country from hence to Adrianople, is the finest in the world. Vines
grow wild on all the hills; and the perpetual spring they enjoy makes
every thing gay and flourishing. But this climate, happy as it
seems, can never be preferred to England, with all its frosts and
snows, while we are blessed with an easy government, under a king,
who makes his own happiness consist in the liberty of his people, and
chuses rather to be looked upon as their father than their
master.--This theme would carry me very far, and I am sensible, I
have already tired out your R. H.'s patience. But my letter is in
your hands, and you may make it as short as you please, by throwing
it into the fire, when weary of reading it. I am, madam,
With the greatest respect, &c.
LET. XXVI.
TO THE LADY ----.
_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717.
I AM now got into a new world, where every thing I see appears to me
a change of scene; and I write to your ladyship with some content of
mind, hoping, at least, that you will find the charms of novelty in
my letters, and no longer reproach me, that I tell you nothing
extraordinary. I won't trouble you with a relation of our tedious
journey; but must not omit what I saw remarkable at Sophia, one of
the most beautiful towns in the Turkish empire, and famous for its
hot baths, that are resorted to both for diversion and health. I
stopped here one day, on purpose to see them; and, designing to go
_incognito_, I hired a Turkish coach. These voitures are not at all
like ours, but much more convenient for the country, the heat being
so great, that glasses would be very troublesome. They are made a
good deal in the manner of the Dutch stage-coaches, having wooden
lattices painted and gilded; the inside being also painted with
baskets and nosegays of flowers, intermixed commonly with little
poetical mottos. They are covered all over with scarlet cloth, lined
with silk, and very often richly embroidered and fringed. This
covering entirely hides the persons in them, but may be thrown back
at pleasure, and thus permits the ladies to peep through the
lattices. They hold four people very conveniently, seated on
cushions, but not raised.
IN one of these covered waggons (sic), I went to the bagnio about ten
o'clock. It was already full of women. It is built of stone, in the
shape of a dome, with no windows but in the roof, which gives light
enough. There were five of these domes joined together, the outmost
being less than the rest, and serving only as a hall, where the
portress stood at the door. Ladies of quality generally give this
woman a crown or ten shillings; and I did not forget that ceremony.
The next room is a very large one paved with marble, and all round it
are two raised sofas of marble, one above another. There were four
fountains of cold water in this room, falling first into marble
basons (sic), and then running on the floor in little channels made
for that purpose, which carried the streams into the next room,
something less than this, with the same sort of marble sofas, but so
hot with steams of sulphur proceeding from the baths joining to it,
'twas impossible to stay there with one's cloaths (sic) on. The two
other domes were the hot baths, one of which had cocks of cold water
turning into it, to temper it to what degree of warmth the bathers
pleased to have.
I WAS in my travelling habit, which is a riding dress, and certainly
appeared very extraordinary to them. Yet there was not one of them
that shewed the least surprise or impertinent curiosity, but received
me with all the obliging civility possible. I know no European
court, where the ladies would have behaved themselves in so polite a
manner to such a stranger. I believe, upon the whole, there were two
hundred women, and yet none of those disdainful smiles, and satirical
whispers, that never fail in our assemblies, when any body appears
that is not dressed exactly in the fashion. They repeated over and
over to me; "UZELLE, PEK UZELLE," which is nothing but, _Charming,
very Charming_.--The first sofas were covered with cushions and rich
carpets, on which sat the ladies; and on the second, their slaves
behind them, but without any distinction of rank by their dress, all
being in the state of nature, that is, in plain English, stark naked,
without any beauty or defect concealed. Yet there was not the least
wanton smile or immodest gesture amongst them. They walked and moved
with the same majestic grace, which Milton describes our general
mother with. There were many amongst them, as exactly proportioned as
ever any goddess was drawn by the pencil of a Guido or Titian,--and
most of their skins shiningly white, only adorned by their beautiful
hair divided into many tresses, hanging on their shoulders, braided
either with pearl or ribbon, perfectly representing the figures of
the Graces.
I WAS here convinced of the truth of a reflection I have often made,
_That if it were the fashion to go naked, the face would be hardly
observed_. I perceived, that the ladies of the most delicate skins
and finest shapes had the greatest share of my admiration, though
their faces were sometimes less beautiful than those of their
companions. To tell you the truth, I had wickedness enough, to wish
secretly, that Mr Gervais could have been there invisible. I fancy
it would have very much improved his art, to see so many fine women
naked, in different postures, some in conversation, some working,
others drinking coffee or sherbet, and many negligently lying on
their cushions, while their slaves (generally pretty girls of
seventeen or eighteen) were employed in braiding their hair in
several pretty fancies. In short, 'tis the women's coffee-house,
where all the news of the town is told, scandal invented, &c.--They
generally take this diversion once a-week (sic), and stay there at
least four or five hours, without getting cold by immediate coming
out of the hot bath into the cold room, which was very surprising to
me. The lady, that seemed the most considerable among them,
entreated me to sit by her, and would fain have undressed me for the
bath. I excused myself with some difficulty. They being however all
so earnest in persuading me, I was at last forced to open my shirt,
and shew them my stays; which satisfied them very well; for, I saw,
they believed I was locked up in that machine, and that it was not in
my own power to open it, which contrivance they attributed to my
husband,--I was charmed with their civility and beauty, and should
have been very glad to pass more time with them; but Mr
W---- resolving to pursue his journey next morning early, I was in
haste to see the ruins of Justinian's church, which did not afford me
so agreeable a prospect as I had left, being little more than a heap
Of stones.
ADIEU, madam, I am sure I have now entertained you with an account of
such a sight as you never saw in your life, and what no book of
travels could inform you of, as 'tis no less than death for a man to
be found in one of these places.
LET. XXVII.
TO THE ABBOT ----.
_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717.
You see I am very exact in keeping the promise you engaged me to
make. I know not, however, whether your curiosity will be satisfied
with the accounts I shall give you, though I can assure you, the
desire I have to oblige you to the utmost of my power, has made me
very diligent in my enquiries and observations. 'Tis certain we have
but very imperfect accounts of the manners and religion of these
people; this part of the world being seldom visited, but by
merchants, who mind little but their own affairs; or travellers, who
make too short a stay, to be able to report any thing exactly of
their own knowledge. The Turks are too proud to converse familiarly
with merchants, who can only pick up some confused informations,
which are generally false; and can give no better account of the ways
here, than a French refugee, lodging in a garret in Greek-street,
could write of the court of England. The journey we have made from
Belgrade hither, cannot possibly be passed by any out of a public
character. The desert woods of Servia, are the common refuge of
thieves, who rob fifty in a company, so that we had need of all our
guards to secure us; and the villages are so poor, that only force
could extort from them necessary provisions. Indeed the janizaries
had no mercy on their poverty, killing all the poultry and sheep they
could find, without asking to whom they belonged; while the wretched
owners durst not put in their claim, for fear of being beaten. Lambs
just fallen, geese and turkies (sic) big with egg, all massacred
without distinction! I fancied I heard the complaints of Melibeus
for the hope of his flock. When the bassas travel, 'tis yet worse.
These oppressors are not content with eating all that is to be eaten
belonging to the peasants; after they have crammed themselves and
their numerous retinue, they have the impudence to exact what they
call _teeth-money_, a contribution for the use of their teeth, worn
with doing them the honour of devouring their meat. This is
literally and exactly true, however extravagant it may seem; and such
is the natural corruption of a military government, their religion
not allowing of this barbarity, any more than ours does.
I HAD the advantage of lodging three weeks at Belgrade, with a
principal effendi, that is to say a scholar. This set of men are
equally capable of preferments in the law or the church, these two
sciences being cast into one, and a lawyer and a priest being the
same word in the Turkish language. They are the only men really
considerable in the empire; all the profitable employments and church
revenues are in their hands. The grand signior, though general heir
to his people, never presumes to touch their lands or money, which
go, in an uninterrupted succession, to their children. 'Tis true,
they lose this privilege, by accepting a place at court, or the title
of Bassa; but there are few examples of such fools among them. You
may easily judge of the power of these men, who have engrossed all
the learning, and almost all the wealth of the empire. 'Tis they
that are the real authors, though the soldiers are the actors of
revolutions. They deposed the late sultan Mustapha; and their power
is so well known, that 'tis the emperor's interest to flatter them.
THIS is a long digression. I was going to tell you, that an intimate
daily conversation with the effendi Achmet-beg, gave me an
opportunity of knowing their religion and morals in a more particular
manner than perhaps any Christian ever did. I explained to him the
difference between the religion of England and Rome; and he Was
pleased to hear there were Christians that did not worship images, or
adore the Virgin Mary. The ridicule of transubstantiation appeared
very strong to him.--Upon comparing our creeds together, I am
convinced that if our friend Dr ---- had free liberty of preaching
here, it would be very easy to persuade the generality to
Christianity, whose notions are very little different from his. Mr
Whiston would make a very good apostle here. I don't doubt but his
zeal will be much fired, if you communicate this account to him; but
tell him, he must first have the gift of tongues, before he can
possibly be of any use.--Mahometism (sic) is divided into as many
sects as Christianity; and the first institution as much neglected
and obscured by interpretations. I cannot here forbear reflecting on
the natural inclination of mankind, to make mysteries and
novelties.--The Zeidi, Kudi, Jabari, &c. put me in mind of the
Catholics, Lutherans, and Calvinists, and are equally zealous against
one another. But the most prevailing opinion, if you search into the
secret of the effendis, is, plain deism. This is indeed kept from
the people, who are amused with a thousand different notions,
according to the different interest of their preachers.--There are
very few amongst them (Achmet-beg denied there were any) so absurd,
as to set up for wit, by declaring they believe no God at all. And
Sir Paul Rycaut is mistaken (as he commonly is) in calling the sect
_muterin_, (i. e. _the secret with us_) atheists, they being deists,
whose impiety consists in making a jest of their prophet. Achmet-beg
did not own to me that he was of this opinion; but made no scruple of
deviating from some part of Mahomet's law, by drinking wine with the
same freedom we did. When I asked him how he came to allow himself
that liberty? He made answer, that all the creatures of God are
good, and designed for the use of man; however, that the prohibition
of wine was a very wise maxim, and meant for the common people, being
the source of all disorders amongst them; but, that the prophet never
designed to confine those that knew how to use it with moderation;
nevertheless, he said, that scandal ought to be avoided, and that he
never drank it in public. This is the general way of thinking
amongst them, and very few forbear drinking wine that are able to
afford it. He assured me, that if I understood Arabic, I should be
very well pleased with reading the alcoran, which is so far from the
nonsense we charge it with, that it is the purest morality, delivered
in the very best language. I have since heard impartial Christians
speak of it in the same manner; and I don't doubt but that all our
translations are from copies got from the Greek priests, who would
not fail to falsify it with the extremity of malice. No body of men
ever were more ignorant, or more corrupt; yet they differ so little
from the Romish church, that, I confess, nothing gives me a greater
abhorrence of the cruelty of your clergy, than the barbarous
persecution of them, whenever they have been their masters, for no
other reason than their not acknowledging the pope. The dissenting
in that one article, has got them the titles of heretics and
schismatics; and, what is worse, the same treatment. I found at
Philippopolis, a sect of Christians that call themselves Paulines.
They shew an old church, where, they say, St Paul preached; and he is
their favourite saint, after the same manner that St Peter is at
Rome; neither do they forget to give him the same preference over the
rest of the apostles.
BUT of all the religions I have seen, that of the Arnounts seems to
me the most particular; they are natives of Arnountlich, the ancient
Macedonia, and still retain the courage and hardiness, though they
have lost the name of Macedonians, being the best militia in the
Turkish empire, and the only check upon the janizaries. They are
foot soldiers; we had a guard of them, relieved in every considerable
town we passed; they are all cloathed and armed at their own expence,
dressed in clean white coarse cloth, carrying guns of a prodigious
length, which they run with upon their shoulders, as if they did not
feel the weight of them, the leader singing a sort of rude tune, not
unpleasant, and the rest making up the chorus. These people living
between Christians and Mahometans, and not being skilled in
controversy, declare, that they are utterly unable to judge which
religion is best; but, to be certain of not entirely rejecting the
truth, they very prudently follow both. They go to the mosques on
Fridays, and to the church on Sunday, saying, for their excuse, that
at the day of judgment they are sure of protection from the true
prophet; but which that is, they are not able to determine in this
world. I believe there is no other race of mankind, who have so
modest an opinion of their own capacity.
THESE are the remarks I have made, on the diversity of religions I
have seen. I don't ask your pardon for the liberty I have taken in
speaking of the Roman. I know you equally condemn the quakery (sic)
of all churches, as much as you revere the sacred truths, in which we
both agree.
YOU will expect I should say something to you of the antiquities of
this country; but there are few remains of ancient Greece. We passed
near the piece of an arch, which is commonly called Trajan's Gate,
from a supposition, that he made it to shut up the passage over the
mountains, between Sophia and Philippopolis. But I rather believe
it the remains of some triumphal arch, (tho' I could not see any
inscription;) for if that passage had been shut up, there are
many others that would serve for the march of an army; and,
notwithstanding the story of Baldwin earl of Flanders being
overthrown in these straits, after he won Constantinople, I don't
fancy the Germans would find themselves stopped by them at this day.
'Tis true, the road is now made (with great industry) as commodious
as possible, for the march of the Turkish army; there is not one
ditch or puddle between this place and Belgrade, that has not a large
strong bridge of planks built over it; but the precipices are not so
terrible as I had heard them represented. At these mountains we lay
at the little village Kiskoi, wholly inhabited by Christians, as all
the peasants of Bulgaria are. Their houses are nothing but little
huts, raised of dirt baked in the sun; and they leave them and fly
into the mountains, some months before the march of the Turkish army,
who would else entirely ruin them, by driving away their whole
flocks. This precaution Secures them in a sort of plenty; for such
vast tracts of land lying in common, they have the liberty of sowing
what they please, and are generally very industrious husbandmen. I
drank here several sorts of delicious wine. The women dress
themselves in a great variety of coloured glass beads, and are not
ugly, but of a tawny complexion. I have now told you all that is
worth telling you, and perhaps more, relating to my journey. When I
am at Constantinople, I'll try to pick up some curiosities, and then
you shall hear again from Your's, &c.
LET. XXVIII
To THE COUNTESS or B----.
_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717.
AS I never can forget the smallest of your ladyship's commands, my
first business here has been to enquire after the stuffs you ordered
me to look for, without being able to find what you would like. The
difference of the dress here and at London is so great, the same sort
of things are not proper for _caftans_ and _manteaus_. However, I
will not give over my search, but renew it again at Constantinople,
though I have reason to believe there is nothing finer than what is
to be found here, as this place is at present the residence of the
court. The grand signior's eldest daughter was married some few days
before I came hither; and, upon that occasion, the Turkish ladies
display all their magnificence. The bride was conducted to her
husband's house in very great splendor (sic). She is widow of the
late vizier, who was killed at Peterwaradin, though that ought rather
to be called a contract than a marriage, since she never has lived
with him; however, the greatest part of his wealth is hers. He had
the permission of visiting her in the seraglio; and, being one of the
handsomest men in the empire, had very much engaged her
affections.--When she saw this second husband, who is at least fifty,
she could not forbear bursting into tears. He is indeed a man of
merit, and the declared favourite of the sultan, (which they call
_ mosayp_) but that is not enough to make him pleasing in the eyes of
a girl of thirteen.
THE government here is entirely in the hands of the army, the grand
signior, with all his absolute power, is as much a slave as any of
his subjects, and trembles at a janizary's frown. Here is, indeed, a
much greater appearance of subjection than amongst us; a minister of
state is not spoke to, but upon the knee: should a reflection on his
conduct be dropt (sic) in a coffee-house (for they have spies every
where) the house would be raz'd (sic) to the ground, and perhaps the
whole company put to the torture. No _huzzaing mobs, senseless
pamphlets, and tavern disputes about politics_;
A consequential ill that freedom draws;
A bad effect,--but from a noble cause.
None of our harmless calling names! but when a minister here
displeases the people, in three hours time he is dragged even from
his master's arms. They cut off hands, head, and feet, and throw
them before the palace gate, with all the respect in the world; while
the sultan (to whom they all profess an unlimited adoration) sits
trembling in his apartment, and dare neither defend nor revenge his
favourite. This is the blessed condition of the most absolute
monarch upon earth, who o---- no l---- but his _will_. [Editor's
note: Two words are unreadable due to damage to the book which may
have occurred at the time of printing. It seems probable that the
sentence should end ".. who owns no limit but his _will_.".]
I CANNOT help wishing, in the loyality (sic) of my heart, that the
parliament would send hither a ship-load of young passive obedient
men, that they might see arbitrary government in its clearest, and
strongest light, where 'tis hard to judge, whether the prince,
people, or ministers, are most miserable. I could make many
reflections on this subject; but I know, madam, your own good sense
has already furnished you with better than I am capable of.
I WENT yesterday along with the French ambassadress to see the grand
signior in his passage to the mosque. He was preceded by a numerous
guard of janizaries, with vast white feathers on their heads, as also
by the _spahis_ and _bostangees_, (these are foot and horse guards)
and the royal gardeners, which are a very considerable body of men,
dressed in different habits of fine lively colours, so that at a
distance, they appeared like a parterre of tulips. After them the
aga of the janizaries, in a robe of purple velvet, lined with silver
tissue, his horse led by two slaves richly dressed. Next him the
_kyzlier-aga_ (your ladyship knows, this is the chief guardian of the
seraglio ladies) in a deep yellow cloth (which suited very well to
his black face) lined with sables. Last came his sublimity himself,
arrayed in green, lined with the fur of a black Moscovite fox, which
is supposed worth a thousand pounds sterling, and mounted on a fine
horse, with furniture embroidered with jewels. Six more horses
richly caparisoned were led after him; and two of his principal
courtiers bore, one his gold, and the other his silver coffee-pot, on
a staff; another carried a silver stool on his head for him to sit
on.---It would be too tedious to tell your ladyship the various
dresses and turbants (sic) by which their rank is distinguished; but
they were all extremely rich and gay, to the number of some
thousands; so that perhaps there cannot be seen a more beautiful
procession. The sultan appeared to us a handsome man of about forty,
with something, however, severe in his countenance, and his eyes
very ---- ---- ---- [Editor's note: as above a few words are
illegible but seem to be 'sultry and black'.] He happened to stop
under the window where he stood, and (I suppose being told who we
were) looked upon us very attentively, so that we had full leisure to
consider him. The French ambassadress agreed with me as to his good
mien; I see that lady very often; she is young, and her conversation
would be a great relief to me, if I could persuade her to live
without those forms and ceremonies that make life so formal and
tiresome. But she is so delighted with her guards, her four and
twenty footmen, gentlemen, ushers, &c. that she would rather die than
make me a visit without them; not to reckon a coachful of attending
damsels ycleap'd (sic) maids of honour. What vexes me is, that as
long as she will visit me with a troublesome equipage, I am obliged
to do the same: however, our mutual interest makes us much together.
I went with her the other day all round the town, in an open gilt
chariot, with our joint train of attendants, preceded by our guards,
who might have summoned the people to see what they had never seen,
nor ever perhaps would see again, two young Christian ambassadresses
at the same time. Your ladyship may easily imagine, we drew a vast
crowd of spectators, but all silent as death. If any of them had
taken the liberties of our mobs upon any strange sight, our
janizaries had made no scruple of falling on them with their
scimitars, without danger for so doing, being above law. These
people however (I mean the janizaries) have some good qualities; they
are very zealous and faithful where they serve, and look upon it as
their business to fight for you on all occasions. Of this I had a
very pleasant instance in a village on this side Philippopolis, where
we were met by our domestic guards. I happened to bespeak pigeons
for supper, upon which one of my janizaries went immediately to the
cadi (the chief civil officer of the town) and ordered him to send in
some dozens. The poor man answered, that he had already sent about,
but could get none. My janizary, in the height of his zeal for my
service, immediately locked him up prisoner in his room, telling him
he deserved death for his impudence, in offering to excuse his not
obeying my command; but, out of respect to me, he would not punish
him but by my order. Accordingly he came very gravely to me, to ask
what should be done to him; adding, by way of compliment, that if I
pleased he would bring me his head.--This may give you some idea of
the unlimited power of these fellows, who are all sworn brothers, and
bound to revenge the injuries done to one another, whether at Cairo,
Aleppo, or any part of the world. This inviolable league makes them
so powerful, that the greatest man at court never speaks to them but
in a flattering tone; and in Asia, any man that is rich is forced to
enrol himself a janizary, to secure his estate.--But I have already
said enough; and I dare swear, dear madam, that, by this time, 'tis a
very comfortable reflection to you, that there is no possibility of
your receiving such a tedious letter but once in six months; 'tis
that consideration has given me the assurance of entertaining you so
long, and will, I hope, plead the excuse of, dear madam, Your's, &c.
LET. XXIX.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Adrianople, April_. 1. O. S. 1717.
I WISH to God, dear sister, that you were as regular in letting me
know what passes on your side of the globe, as I am careful in
endeavouring to amuse you by the account of all I see here, that I
think worth your notice. You content yourself with telling me over
and over, that the town is very dull: it may, possibly, be dull to
you, when every day does not present you with something new; but for
me that am in arrears, at least two months news, all that seems very
stale with you, would be very fresh and sweet here. Pray let me into
more particulars, and I will try to awaken your gratitude, by giving
you a full and true relation of the novelties of this place, none of
which would surprise you more than a sight of my person, as I am now
in my Turkish habit, though I believe you would be of my opinion,
that 'tis admirably becoming.--I intend to send you my picture; in
the mean time accept of it here.
THE first part of my dress is a pair of drawers, very full that reach
to my shoes, and conceal the legs more modestly than your petticoats.
They are of a thin rose-coloured damask, brocaded with silver
flowers. My shoes are of white kid leather, embroidered with gold.
Over this hangs my smock, of a fine white silk gauze, edged with
embroidery. This smock has wide sleeves hanging half way down the
arm, and is closed at the neck with a diamond button; but the shape
and colour of the bosom is very well to be distinguished through
it.--The _antery_ is a waistcoat, made close to the shape, of white
and gold damask, with very long sleeves falling back, and fringed
with deep gold fringe, and should have diamond or pearl buttons. My
_caftan_, of the same stuff with my drawers, is a robe exactly fitted
to my shape, and reaching to my feet, with very long strait falling
sleeves. Over this is my girdle, of about four fingers broad, which,
all that can afford it, have entirely of diamonds or other precious
stones; those who will not be at that expence, have it of exquisite
embroidery on sattin (sic); but it must be fastened before with a
clasp of diamonds.--The _curdee_ is a loose robe they throw off, or
put on, according to the weather, being of a rich brocade (mine is
green and gold) either lined with ermine or sables; the sleeves reach
very little below the shoulders. The head dress is composed of a
cap, called _talpock_, which is, in winter, of fine velvet
embroidered with pearls or diamonds, and in summer, of a light
shining silver stuff. This is fixed on one side of the head, hanging
a little way down with a gold tassel, and bound on, either with a
circle of diamonds (as I have seen several) or a rich embroidered
handkerchief. On the other side of the head, the hair is laid flat;
and here the ladies are at liberty to shew their fancies; some
putting flowers, others a plume of heron's feathers, and, in short,
what they please; but the most general fashion is a large _bouquet_
of jewels, made like natural flowers; that is, the buds, of pearl;
the roses, of different coloured rubies: the jessamines, of diamonds;
the jonquils, of topazes, &c. so well set and enamelled, 'tis hard to
imagine any thing of that kind so beautiful. The hair hangs at its
full length behind, divided into tresses braided with pearl or
ribbon, which is always in great quantity. I never saw in my life so
many fine heads of hair. In one lady's, I have counted a hundred and
ten of the tresses, all natural; but it must be owned, that every
kind of beauty is more common here than with us. 'Tis surprising to
see a young woman that is not very handsome. They have naturally the
most beautiful complexion in the world, and generally large black
eyes. I can assure you with great truth, that the court of England
(though I believe it the fairest in Christendom) does not contain so
many beauties as are under our protection here. They generally shape
their eye-brows, and both Greeks and Turks have the custom of putting
round their eyes a black tincture, that, at a distance, or by
candle-light, adds very much to the blackness of them. I fancy many
of our ladies would be overjoyed to know this secret, but 'tis too
visible by day. They dye their nails a rose colour; but, I own, I
cannot enough accustom myself to this fashion, to find any beauty in
it.
AS to their morality or good conduct, I can say, like Harlequin, that
'tis just as 'tis with you; and the Turkish ladies don't commit one
sin the less for not being Christians. Now, that I am a little
acquainted with their ways, I cannot forbear admiring, either the
exemplary discretion, or extreme stupidity of all the writers that
have given accounts of them. 'Tis very easy to see, they have in
reality more liberty than we have. No woman, of what rank soever, is
permitted to go into the streets without two _murlins_, one that
covers her face all but her eyes, and another, that hides the whole
dress of her head, and hangs half way down her back. Their shapes
are also wholely (sic) concealed, by a thing they call a _serigee_,
which no woman of any sort appears without; this has strait sleeves,
that reach to their fingers-ends, and it laps all round them, not
unlike a riding-hood. In winter, 'tis of cloth; and in summer, of
plain stuff or silk. You may guess then, how effectually this
disguises them, so that there is no distinguishing the great lady
from her slave. 'Tis impossible for the most jealous husband to know
his wife, when he meets her; and no man dare touch or follow a woman
in the street.
THIS perpetual masquerade gives them entire liberty of following
their inclinations, without danger of discovery. The most usual
method of intrigue, is, to send an appointment to the lover to meet
the lady at a Jew's shop, which are as notoriously convenient as our
Indian-houses; and yet, even those who don't make use of them, do not
scruple to go to buy pennyworths, and tumble over rich goods, which
are chiefly to be found amongst that sort of people. The great
ladies seldom let their gallants know who they are; and 'tis so
difficult to find it out, that they can very seldom guess at her
name, whom they have corresponded with for above half a year
together. You may easily imagine the number of faithful wives very
small in a country where they have nothing to fear from a lover's
indiscretion, since we see so many have the courage to expose
themselves to that in this world, and all the threatened punishment
of the next, which is never preached to the Turkish damsels. Neither
have they much to apprehend from the resentment of their husbands;
those ladies that are rich, having all their money in their own
hands. Upon the whole, I look upon the Turkish women, as the only
free people in the empire; the very divan pays respect to them; and
the grand signior himself, when a bassa is executed, never violates
the privileges of the _haram_, (or womens apartment) which remains
unsearched and entire to the widow. They are queens of their slaves,
whom the husband has no permission so much as to look upon, except it
be an old woman or two that his lady chuses. 'Tis true, their law
permits them four wives; but there is no instance of a man of quality
that makes use of this liberty, or of a woman of rank that would
suffer it. When a husband happens to be inconstant, (as those things
will happen) he keeps his mistress in a house apart, and visits her
as privately as he can, just as it is with you. Amongst all the
great men here, I only know the _testerdar_, (i.e. a treasurer) that
keeps a number of she slaves, for his own use, (that is, on his own
side of the house; for a slave once given to serve a lady, is
entirely at her disposal) and he is spoke of as a libertine, or what
we should call a rake, and his wife won't see him, though she
continues to live in his house. Thus you see, dear sister, the
manners of mankind do not differ so Widely, as our voyage-writers
would make us believe. Perhaps, it would be more entertaining to add
a few surprising customs of my own invention; but nothing seems to me
so agreeable as truth, and I believe nothing so acceptable to you. I
conclude therefore with repeating the great truth of my being,
Dear sister, &c.
LET. XXX.
TO MR POPE.
_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717.
I DARE say you expect, at least, something very new in this letter,
after I have gone a journey, not undertaken by any Christian for some
hundred years. The most remarkable accident that happened to me, was
my being very near overturned into the Hebrus; and, if I had much
regard for the glories that one's name enjoys after death, I should
certainly be sorry for having missed the romantic conclusion of
swimming down the same river in which the musical head of Orpheus
repeated verses so many ages since:
"_Caput a cervice revulsum,
"Gurgite cum medio, portans Oeagrius Hebrus,
"Volveret, Eurydicen vox ipsa, et frigida lingua,
"Ah! miseram Eurydicen! anima fugiente vocabat,
"Eurydicen toto referebant flumine ripae_"
Who knows but some of your bright wits might have found it a subject
affording many poetical turns, and have told the world, in an heroic
elegy, that,
_As equal were our souls, so equal were our fates?_
I despair of ever hearing so many fine things said of me, as so
extraordinary a death would have given occasion for.
I AM at this present moment writing in a house situated on the banks
of the Hebrus, which runs under my chamber window. My garden is full
of all cypress trees, upon the branches of which several couple of
true turtles are saying soft things to one another from morning till
night. How naturally do _boughs_ and _vows_ come into my mind, at
this minute? and must not you confess, to my praise, that 'tis more
than an ordinary discretion that can resist the wicked suggestions of
poetry, in a place where truth, for once, furnishes all the ideas of
pastoral. The summer is already far advanced in this part of the
world; and, for some miles round Adrianople, the whole ground is laid
out in gardens, and the banks of the rivers are set with rows of
fruit-trees, under which all the most considerable Turks divert
themselves every evening, not with walking, that is not one of their
pleasures; but a set party of them chuse out a green spot, where the
shade is very thick, and, there they spread a carpet, on which they
sit drinking their coffee, and are generally attended by some slave
with a fine voice, or that plays on some instrument. Every twenty
paces you may see one of these little companies listening to the
dashing of the river; and this taste is so universal, that the very
gardeners are not without it. I have often seen them and their
children sitting on the banks of the river, and playing on a rural
instrument, perfectly answering the description of the ancient
_fistula_, being composed of unequal reeds, with a simple, but
agreeable softness in the sound.
MR ADDISON might here make the experiment he speaks of in his travels;
there not being one instrument Of music among the Greek or Roman
statues, that is not to be found in the hands of the people of this
country. The young lads generally divert themselves with making
garlands for their favourite lambs, which I have often seen painted
and adorned with flowers, lying at their feet, while they sung or
played. It is not that they ever read romances, but these are the
ancient amusements here, and as natural to them as cudgel-playing and
foot-ball to our British swains; the softness and warmth of the
climate forbidding all rough exercises, which were never so much as
heard of amongst them, and naturally inspiring a laziness and
aversion to labour, which the great plenty indulges. These gardeners
are the only happy race of country people in Turkey. They furnish
all the city with fruits and herbs, and seem to live very easily.
They are most of them Greeks, and have little houses in the midst of
their gardens, where their wives and daughters take a liberty, not
permitted in the town, I mean, to go unveiled. These wenches are
very neat and handsome, and pass their time at their looms, under the
shade of the trees.
I No longer look upon Theocritus as a romantic writer; he has only
given a plain image of the way of life amongst the peasants of his
country; who, before oppression had reduced them to want, were, I
suppose, all employed as the better sort of them are now. I don't
doubt, had he been born a Briton, but his _Idyliums_ had been filled
with descriptions of threshing and churning, both which are unknown
here, the corn being all trode (sic) out by oxen; and butter (I speak
it with sorrow) unheard of.
I READ over your Homer here, with an infinite pleasure, and find
several little passages explained, that I did not before entirely
comprehend the beauty of; many of the customs, and much Of the dress
then in fashion, being yet retained. I don't wonder to find more
remains here, of an age so distant, than is to be found in any other
country, the Turks not taking that pains to introduce their own
manners, as has been generally practised by other nations, that
imagine themselves more polite. It would be too tedious to you, to
point out all the passages that relate to present customs. But, I
can assure you, that the princesses and great ladies pass their time
at their looms, embroidering veils and robes, surrounded by their
maids, which are always very numerous, in the same manner as we find
Andromache and Helen described. The description of the belt of
Menelaus, exactly resembles those that are now worn by the great men,
fastened before with broad golden clasps, and embroidered round with
rich work. The snowy veil that Helen throws over her face, is still
fashionable; and I never see half a dozen of old bashaws (as I do
very often) with their reverend beards, sitting basking in the sun,
but I recollect good king Priam and his counsellors. Their manner of
dancing is certainly the same that Diana is _sung_ (sic) to have
danced on the banks of Eurotas. The great lady still leads the
dance, and is followed by a troop of young girls, who imitate her
steps, and, if she sings, make up the chorus. The tunes are
extremely gay and lively, yet with something in them wonderfully
soft. The steps are varied according to the pleasure of her that
leads the dance, but always in exact time, and infinitely more
agreeable than any of our dances, at least in my opinion. I
sometimes make one in the train, but am not skilful enough to lead;
these are the Grecian dances, the Turkish being very different.
I SHOULD have told you, in the first place, that the Eastern manners
give a great light into many scripture-passages, that appear
odd to us, their phrases being commonly what we should call
scripture-language. The vulgar Turk is very different from what is
spoke at court, or amongst the people of figure; who always mix so
much Arabic and Persian in their discourse, that it may very well be
called another language. And 'tis as ridiculous to make use of the
expressions commonly used, in speaking to a great man or lady, as it
would be to speak broad Yorkshire, or Somersetshire, in the drawing
room. Besides this distinction, they have what they call the
_sublime_, that is, a style proper for poetry, and which is the exact
scripture style. I believe you will be pleased to see a genuine
example of this; and I am very glad I have it in my power to satisfy
your curiosity, by sending you a faithful copy of the verses that
Ibrahim Bassa, the reigning favourite, has made for the young
princess, his contracted wife, whom he is not yet permitted to visit
without witnesses, though she is gone home to his house. He is a man
of wit and learning; and whether or no he is capable of writing good
verse, you may be sure, that, on such an occasion, he would not want
the assistance of the best poets in the empire. Thus the verses may
be looked upon as a sample of their finest poetry; and I don't doubt
you'll be of my mind, that it is most wonderfully resembling _The
song of Solomon_, which was also addressed to a royal bride.
TURKISH VERSES addressed to the _Sultana_, eldest daughter of SULTAN
ACHMET III.
STANZA I.
Ver.
1. _THE nightingale now wanders in the vines:
Her passion is to seek roses._
2. _I went down to admire the beauty of the vines:
The sweetness of your charms has ravished my soul._
3. _Your eyes are black and lovely,
But wild and disdainful as those of a stag._
STANZA II.
1. _The wished possession is delayed from day to day;
The cruel Sultan ACHMET will not permit me
To see those cheeks, more vermilion than roses._
2. _I dare not snatch one of your kisses;
The sweetness of your charms has ravished my soul._
3. _Your eyes are black and lovely,
But wild and disdainful as those of a stag._
STANZA III
1. _The wretched_ IBRAHIM _sighs in these verses:
One dart from your eyes has pierc'd thro' my heart._
2. _Ah! when will the hour of possession arrive?
Must I yet wait a long time?
The sweetness of your charms has ravished my soul._
3. _Ah!_ SULTANA! _stag-ey'd--an angel amongst angels!
I desire,--and, my desire remains unsatisfied.--Can
you take delight to prey upon my heart?_
STANZA IV
1. _My cries pierce the heavens!
My eyes are without sleep!
Turn to me,_ SULTANA--_let me gaze on thy beauty._
2. _Adieu--I go down to the grave.
If you call me--I return.
My heart is--hot as sulphur;--sigh, and it will flame._
3. _Crown of my life! fair light of my eyes!
My_ SULTANA! _my princess!
I rub my face against the earth; I am drown'd in scalding tears--
I rave!
Have you no compassion? Will you not turn to look upon me?_
I have taken abundance of pains to get these verses in a literal
translation; and if you were acquainted with my interpreters, I might
spare myself the trouble of assuring you, that they have received no
poetical touches from their hands. In my opinion (allowing for the
inevitable faults of a prose translation into a language so very
different) there is a good deal of beauty in them. The epithet of
_stag-ey'd_ (though the sound is not very agreeable in English)
pleases me extremely; and I think it a very lively image of the fire
and indifference in his mistress's eyes.--Monsieur Boileau has very
justly observed, that we are never to judge of the elevation of an
expression in an ancient author, by the sound it carries with us;
since it may be extremely fine with them, when, at the same time, it
appears low or uncouth to us. You are so well acquainted with Homer,
you cannot but have observed the same thing, and you must have the
same indulgence for all Oriental poetry. The repetitions at the end
of the two first stanzas are meant for a sort of chorus, and are
agreeable to the ancient manner of writing. The music of the verses
apparently changes in the third stanza, where the burden is altered;
and I think he very artfully, seems more passionate at the
conclusion, as 'tis natural for people to warm themselves by their
own discourse, especially on a subject in which one is deeply
concerned; 'tis certainly far more touching than our modern custom of
concluding a song of passion with a turn which is inconsistent with
it. The first verse is a description of the season of the year; all
the country now being full of nightingales, whole amours with roses,
is an Arabian fable, as well known here as any part of Ovid amongst
us, and is much the same as if an English poem should begin, by
saying,--"_Now Philomela sings_." Or what if I turned the whole into
the style of English poetry, to see how it would look?
STANZA I.
"NOW Philomel renews her tender strain,
"Indulging all the night her pleasing pain;
"I sought in groves to hear the wanton sing,
"There saw a face more beauteous than the spring.
"Your large stag-eyes, where thousand glories play,
"As bright, as lively, but as wild as they.
STANZA II.
"In vain I'm promis'd such a heav'nly prize,
"Ah! cruel SULTAN! who delay'st my joys!
"While piercing charms transfix my am'rous heart,
"I dare not snatch one kiss to ease the smart.
"Those eyes! like, &c.
STANZA III.
"Your wretched lover in these lines complains;
"From those dear beauties rise his killing pains.
"When will the hour of wish'd-for bliss arrive?
"Must I wait longer?--Can I wait and live?
"Ah! bright Sultana! maid divinely fair!
"Can you, unpitying, see the pains I bear?
STANZA IV.
"The heavens relenting, hear my piercing cries,
"I loathe the light, and sleep forsakes my eyes;
"Turn thee, Sultana, ere thy lover dies:
"Sinking to earth, I fight the last adieu,
"Call me, my goddess, and my life renew.
"My queen! my angel! my fond heart's desire!
"I rave--my bosom burns with heav'nly fire!
"Pity that passion, which thy charms inspire."
I have taken the liberty, in the second verse, of following what I
suppose the true sense of the author, though not literally expressed.
By his saying, _He went down to admire the beauty of the vines, and
her charms ravished his soul_, I understand a poetical fiction, of
having first seen her in a garden, where he was admiring the beauty
of the spring. But I could not forbear retaining the comparison of
her eyes with those of a stag, though perhaps the novelty of it may
give it a burlesque sound in our language. I cannot determine upon
the whole, how well I have succeeded in the translation, neither do I
think our English proper to express such violence of passion, which
is very seldom felt amongst us. We want also those compound words
which are very frequent and strong in the Turkish language.
YOU see I am pretty far gone in Oriental learning; and, to say truth,
I study very hard. I wish my studies may give me an occasion of
entertaining your curiosity, which will be the utmost advantage hoped
for from them, by, Your's, &c.
LET. XXXI.
TO MRS S. C.
_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S.
IN my opinion, dear S. I ought rather to quarrel with you, for not
answering my Nimeguen letter of August, till December, than to excuse
my not writing again till now. I am sure there is on my side a very
good excuse for silence, having gone such tiresome land-journies
(sic), though I don't find the conclusion of them so bad as you seem
to imagine. I am very easy here, and not in the solitude you fancy
me. The great number of Greeks, French, English, and Italians that
are under our protection, make their court to me from morning till
night; and, I'll assure you, are, many of them, very fine ladies; for
there is no possibility for a Christian to live easily under this
government, but by the protection of an ambassador--and the richer
they are, the greater is their danger.
THOSE dreadful stories you have heard of the _plague_, have very
little foundation in truth. I own, I have much ado to reconcile
myself to the sound of a word, which has always given me such
terrible ideas; though I am convinced there is little more in it,
than in a fever. As a proof of this, let me tell you that we passed
through two or three towns most violently infected. In the very next
house where we lay, (in one of those places) two persons died of it.
Luckily for me I was so well deceived, that I knew nothing of the
matter; and I was made believe, that our second cook had only a great
cold. However, we left our doctor to take care of him, and yesterday
they both arrived here in good health; and I am now let into the
secret, that he has had the _plague_. There are many that escape it,
neither is the air ever infected. I am persuaded, that it would be
as easy a matter to root it out here, as out of Italy and France; but
it does so little mischief, they are not very solicitous about it,
and are content to suffer this distemper, instead of our variety,
which they are utterly unacquainted with.
_A propos_ of distempers, I am going to tell you a thing that will
make you wish yourself here. The small-pox, so fatal, and so general
amongst us, is here entirely harmless, by the invention of
_ingrafting_, which is the term they give it. There is a set of old
women, who make it their business to perform the operation, every
autumn, in the month of September, when the great heat is abated.
People send to one another to know if any of their family has a mind
to have the small-pox: they make parties for this purpose, and when
they are met (commonly fifteen or sixteen together) the old woman
comes with a nutshell full of the matter of the best sort of
small-pox, and asks what vein you please to have opened. She
immediately rips open that you offer to her, with a large needle,
(which gives you no more pain than a common scratch) and puts into
the vein as much matter as can ly upon the head of her needle, and
after that, binds up the little wound with a hollow bit of shell; and
in this manner opens four or five veins. The Grecians have commonly
the superstition of opening one in the middle of the forehead, one in
each arm, and one on the breast, to mark the sign of the cross; but
this has a very ill effect, all these wounds leaving little scars,
and is not done by those that are not superstitious, who chuse to
have them in the legs, or that part of the arm that is concealed.
The children or young patients play together all the rest of the day,
and are in perfect health to the eighth. Then the fever begins to
seize them, and they keep their beds two days, very seldom three.
They have very rarely above twenty or thirty in their faces, which
never mark; and in eight days time they are as well as before their
illness. Where they are wounded, there remain running sores during
the distemper, which I don't doubt is a great relief to it. Every
year thousands undergo this operation; and the French ambassador says
pleasantly, that they take the small-pox here by way of diversion, as
they take the waters in other countries. There is no example of any
one that has died in it; and you may believe I am well satisfied of
the safety of this experiment, since I intend to try it on my dear
little son. I am patriot enough to take pains to bring this useful
invention into fashion in England; and I should not fail to write to
some of our doctors very particularly about it, if I knew any one of
them that I thought had virtue enough to destroy such a considerable
branch of their revenue, for the good of mankind. But that distemper
is too beneficial to them, not to expose to all their resentment the
hardy wight (sic) that should undertake to put an end to it.
Perhaps, if I live to return, I may, however, have courage to war
with them. Upon this occasion, admire the heroism in the heart of
Your friend, &c. &c.
LET. XXXII.
TO MRS T----.
_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1718 (sic).
I CAN now tell dear Mrs T----, that I am safely arrived at the end of
my very long journey. I will not tire you with the account of the
many fatigues I have suffered. You would rather be informed of the
strange things that are to be seen here; and a letter out of Turkey,
that has nothing extraordinary in it, would be as great a
disappointment, as my visitors will receive at London, if I return
thither without any rarities to shew them.--What shall I tell you
of?--You never saw camels in your life; and perhaps the description
of them will appear new to you; I can assure you the first sight of
them was so to me; and though I have seen hundreds of pictures of
those animals, I never saw any that was resembling enough, to give a
true idea of them. I am going to make a bold observation, and
possibly a false one, because nobody has ever made it before me; but
I do take them to be of the stag kind; their legs, bodies, and necks,
are exactly shaped like them, and their colour very near the same.
'Tis true they are much larger, being a great deal higher than a
horse; and so swift, that, after the defeat of Peterwaradin, they far
outran the swiftest horses, and brought the first news of the loss of
the battle to Belgrade. They are never thoroughly tamed; the drivers
take care to tie them one to another, with strong ropes, fifty in a
string, led by an ass, on which the driver rides. I have seen three
hundred in one caravan. They carry the third part more than any
horse; but 'tis a particular art to load them, because of the bunch
on their backs. They seem to be very ugly creatures, their heads
being ill-formed and disproportioned (sic) to their bodies. They
carry all the burdens; and the beasts destined to the plough, are
buffaloes, an animal you are also unacquainted with. They are larger
and more clumsy than an ox; they have short thick black horns close
to their heads, Which grow turning backwards. They say this horn
looks very beautiful when 'tis well polished. They are all black,
with very short hair on their hides, and have extremely little white
eyes, that make them look like devils. The country people dye their
tails, and the hair of their forehead, red, by way of ornament.
Horses are not put here to any laborious work, nor are they at all
fit for it. They are beautiful and full of spirit, but generally
little, and not strong, as the breed of colder countries; very
gentle, however, with all their vivacity, and also swift and
surefooted. I have a little white favourite, that I would not part
with on any terms; he prances under me with so much fire, you would
think that I had a great deal of courage to dare to mount him; yet
I'll assure you, I never rid a horse so much at my command in my
life. My side-saddle is the first that was ever seen in this part of
the world, and is gazed at with as much wonder as the ship of
Columbus in the first discovery of America. Here are some little
birds, held in a sort of religious reverence, and, for that reason,
multiply prodigiously: turtles, on the account of their innocence;
and storks, because they are supposed to make every winter the
pilgrimage to Mecca. To say truth, they are the happiest subjects
under the Turkish government, and are so sensible of their
privileges, that they walk the streets without fear, and generally
build in the low parts of houses. Happy are those whose houses are
so distinguished, as the vulgar Turks are perfectly persuaded that
they will not be, that year, attacked either by fire or pestilence.
I have the happiness of one of their sacred nests under my
chamber-window.
NOW I am talking of my chamber, I remember the description of the
houses here will be as new to you, as any of the birds or beasts. I
suppose you have read, in most of our accounts of Turkey, that their
houses are the most miserable pieces of building in the world. I can
speak very learnedly on that subject, having been in so many of them;
and, I assure you, 'tis no such thing. We are now lodged in a palace
belonging to the grand signior. I really think the manner of
building here very agreeable, and proper for the country. 'Tis true,
they are not at all solicitous to beautify the outsides of their
houses, and they are generally built of wood; which, I own, is the
cause of many inconveniencies; but this is not to be charged on the
ill taste of the people, but on the oppression of the government.
Every house, at the death of its master, is at the grand signior's
disposal; and therefore, no man cares to make a great expence, which
he is not sure his family will be the better for. All their design
is to build a house commodious, and that will last their lives; and
they are very indifferent if it falls down the year after. Every
house, great and small, is divided into two distinct parts, which
only join together by a narrow passage. The first house has a large
court before it, and open galleries all round it, which is to me a
thing very agreeable. This gallery leads to all the chambers, which
are commonly large, and with two rows of windows, the first being of
painted glass; they seldom build above two stories, each of which has
galleries. The stairs are broad, and not often above thirty steps.
This is the house belonging to the lord, and the adjoining one is
called the _haram_, that is, the ladies apartment, (for the name of
_seraglio_ is peculiar to the grand signior;) it has also a gallery
running round it towards the garden, to which all the windows are
turned, and the same number of chambers as the other, but more gay
and splendid, both in painting and furniture. The second row of
windows is very low, with grates like those of convents; the rooms
are all spread with Persian carpets, and raised at one end of them
(my chambers are raised at both ends) about two feet. This is the
sofa, which is laid with a richer sort of carpet, and all round it a
sort of couch, raised half a foot, covered with rich silk, according
to the fancy or magnificence of the owner. Mine is of scarlet cloth,
with a gold fringe; round about this are placed, standing against the
wall, two rows of cushions, the first very large, and the next,
little ones; and here the Turks display their greatest magnificence.
They are generally brocade, or embroidery of gold wire upon white
sattin.--Nothing can look more gay and splendid. These seats are
also so convenient and easy, that I believe I shall never endure
chairs as long as I live.--The rooms are low, which I think no fault,
and the ceiling is always of wood, generally inlaid or painted with
flowers. They open in many places, with folding doors, and serve for
cabinets, I think, more conveniently than ours. Between the windows
are little arches to set pots of perfume, or baskets of flowers. But
what pleases me best, is the fashion of having marble fountains in
the lower part of the room, which throw up several spouts of water,
giving, at the same time, an agreeable coolness, and a pleasant
dashing sound, falling from one basin to another. Some of these are
very magnificent. Each house has a bagnio, which consists generally
in two or three little rooms, leaded on the top, paved with marble,
with basins, cocks of water, and all conveniencies for either hot or
cold baths.
YOU will perhaps be surprised at an account so different from what
you have been entertained with by the common voyage-writers, who are
very fond of speaking of what they don't know. It must be under a
very particular character, or on some extraordinary occasion, that a
Christian is admitted into the house of a man of quality; and their
_harams_ are always forbidden ground. Thus they can only speak of
the outside, which makes no great appearance; and the womens
apartments are always built backward, removed from sight, and have no
other prospect than the gardens, which are inclosed with very high
walls. There are none of our parterres in them; but they are planted
with high trees, which give an agreeable shade, and, to my fancy, a
pleasing view. In the midst of the garden is the _chiosk_, that is,
a large room, commonly beautified with a fine fountain in the midst
of it. It is raised nine or ten steps, and inclosed with gilded
lattices, round which, vines, jessamines, and honey-suckles, make a
sort of green wall. Large trees are planted round this place, which
is the scene of their greatest pleasures, and where the ladies spend
most of their hours, employed by their music or embroidery.--In the
public gardens, there are public _chiosks_ where people go, that are
not so well accommodated at home, and drink their coffee, sherbet,
&c.--Neither are they ignorant of a more durable manner of building:
their mosques are all of free-stone, and the public _hanns_, or inns,
extremely magnificent, many of them taking up a large square, built
round with shops under stone arches, where poor artificers are lodged
_gratis_. They have always a mosque joining to them, and the body of
the _hann_ is a most noble hall, capable of holding three or four
hundred persons, the court extremely spacious, and cloisters round
it, that give it the air of our colleges. I own, I think it a more
reasonable piece of charity than the founding of convents.--I think
I have now told you a great deal for once. If you don't like my
choice of subjects, tell me what you would have me write Upon; there
is nobody more desirous to entertain you, than, dear Mrs T----,
Your's, &c. &c.
LET. XXXIII.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Adrianopolis, April_ 18. O. S.
I WROTE to you, dear sister, and to all my other English
correspondents, by the last ship, and only Heaven can tell, when I
shall have another opportunity of sending to you; but I cannot
forbear to write again, though perhaps my letter may ly upon my hands
this two months. To confess the truth, my head is so full of my
entertainment yesterday, that 'tis absolutely necessary, for my own
repose, to give it some vent. Without farther preface, I will then
begin my story.
I WAS invited to dine with the grand vizier's lady, and it was with a
great deal of pleasure I prepared myself for an entertainment, which
was never before given to any Christian. I thought I should very
little satisfy her curiosity, (which I did not doubt was a
considerable motive to the invitation) by going in a dress she was
used to see, and therefore dressed myself in the court habit of
Vienna, which is much more magnificent than ours. However, I chose
to go _incognito_, to avoid any disputes about ceremony, and went in
a Turkish coach, only attended by my woman, that held up my train,
and the Greek lady, who was my interpretess. I was met at the court
door by her black eunuch, who helped me out of the coach with great
respect, and conducted me through several rooms, where her
she-slaves, finely dressed, were ranged on each side. In the
innermost, I found the lady sitting on her sofa, in a sable vest.
She advanced to meet me, and presented me half a dozen of her
friends, with great civility. She seemed a very good woman, near
fifty years old. I was surprised to observe so little magnificence
in her house, the furniture being all very moderate; and, except the
habits and number of her slaves, nothing about her appeared
expensive. She guessed at my thoughts, and told me she was no longer
of an age to spend either her time or money in superfluities; that
her whole expence was in charity, and her whole employment praying to
God. There was no affectation in this speech; both she and her
husband are entirely given up to devotion. He never looks upon any
other woman; and, what is much more extraordinary, touches
no bribes, notwithstanding the example of all his predecessors. He
is so scrupulous on this point, he would not accept Mr W----'s
present, till he had been assured over and over, that it was a
settled perquisite Of his place, at the entrance of every ambassador.
She entertained me with all kind of civility, till dinner came in,
which was served, one dish at a time, to a vast number, all finely
dressed after their manner, which I don't think so bad as you have
perhaps heard it represented. I am a very good judge of their
eating, having lived three weeks in the house of an _effendi_ at
Belgrade, who gave us very magnificent dinners, dressed by his own
cooks. The first week they pleased me extremely; but, I own, I then
began to grow weary of their table, and desired our own cook might
add a dish or two after our manner. But I attribute this to custom,
and am very much inclined to believe, that an Indian, who had never
tasted of either, would prefer their cookery to ours. Their sauces
are very high, all the roast very much done. They use a great deal
of very rich spice. The soup is served for the last dish; and they
have, at least, as great a variety of ragouts as we have. I was very
sorry I could not eat of as many as the good lady would have had me,
who was very earnest in serving me of every thing. The treat
concluded with coffee and perfumes, which is a high mark of respect;
two slaves kneeling _censed_ my hair, clothes, and handkerchief.
After this ceremony, she commanded her slaves to play and dance,
which they did with their guitars in their hands, and she excused to
me their want of skill, saying she took no care to accomplish them in
that art.
I RETURNED her thanks, and, soon after, took my leave. I was
conducted back in the same manner I entered, and would have gone
straight to my own house; but the Greek lady with me, earnestly
solicited me to visit the _kahya's_ lady, saying, he was the second
officer in the empire, and ought indeed to be looked upon as the
first, the grand vizier having only the name, while he exercised the
authority. I had found so little diversion in the vizier's _haram_,
that I had no mind to go into another. But her importunity prevailed
with me, and I am extremely glad I was so complaisant. All things
here were with quite another air than at the grand vizier's; and the
very house confessed the difference between an old devotee, and a
young beauty. It was nicely clean and magnificent. I was met at the
door by two black eunuchs, who led me through a long gallery, between
two ranks of beautiful young girls, with their hair finely plaited,
almost hanging to their feet, all dressed in fine light damasks,
brocaded with silver. I was sorry that decency did not permit me to
stop to consider them nearer. But that thought was lost upon my
entrance into a large room, or rather pavilion, built round with
gilded sashes, which were most of them thrown up, and the trees
planted near them gave an agreeable shade, which hindered the sun
from being troublesome. The jessamines and honey-suckles that
twisted round their trunks, shed a soft perfume, increased by a white
marble fountain playing sweet water in the lower part of the room,
which fell into three or four basins, with a pleasing sound. The
roof was painted with all sorts of flowers, falling out of gilded
baskets, that seemed tumbling down. On a sofa, raised three steps,
and covered with fine Persian carpets, sat the _kahya_'s lady,
leaning on cushions of white sattin, embroidered; and at her feet sat
two young girls about twelve years old, lovely as angels, dressed
perfectly rich, and almost covered with jewels. But they were hardly
seen near the fair _Fatima_, (for that is her name) so much her
beauty effaced every thing I have seen, nay, all that has been called
lovely either in England or Germany. I must own, that I never saw
any thing so gloriously beautiful, nor can I recollect a face that
would have been taken notice of near hers. She stood up to receive
me, saluting me after their fashion, putting her hand to her heart
with a sweetness full of majesty, that no court breeding could ever
give. She ordered cushions to be given me, and took care to place me
in the corner, which is the place of honour. I confess, though the
Greek lady had before given me a great opinion of her beauty, I was
so struck with admiration, that I could not, for some time, speak to
her, being wholly taken up in gazing. That surprising harmony of
features! that charming result of the whole! that exact proportion of
body! that lovely bloom of complexion unsullied by art! the
unutterable enchantment of her smile!--But her eyes!--large and
black, with all the soft languishment of the blue! every turn of her
face discovering some new grace.
AFTER my first surprise was over, I endeavoured, by nicely examining
her face, to find out some imperfection, without any fruit of my
search, but my being clearly convinced of the error of that vulgar
notion, that a face exactly proportioned, and perfectly beautiful,
would not be agreeable; nature having done for her, with more
success, what Appelles is said to have essayed, by a collection of
the most exact features, to form a perfect face. Add to all this, a
behaviour so full of grace and sweetness, such easy motions, with an
air so majestic, yet free from stiffness or affectation, that I am
persuaded, could she be suddenly transported upon the most polite
throne of Europe, no body would think her other than born and bred to
be a queen, though educated in a country we call barbarous. To say
all in a word, our most celebrated English beauties would vanish near
her.
SHE was dressed in a _caftan_ of gold brocade, flowered with silver,
very well fitted to her shape, and shewing to admiration the beauty
of her bosom, only shaded by the thin gauze of her shift. Her
drawers were pale pink, her waistcoat green and silver, her slippers
white sattin, finely embroidered: her lovely arms adorned with
bracelets of diamonds, and her broad girdle set round with diamonds;
upon her head a rich Turkish handkerchief of pink and silver, her own
fine black hair hanging a great length, in various tresses, and on
one side of her head some bodkins of jewels. I am afraid you will
accuse me of extravagance in this description. I think I have read
somewhere, that women always speak in rapture when they speak of
beauty, and I cannot imagine why they should not be allowed to do so.
I rather think it a virtue to be able to admire without any mixture
of desire or envy. The gravest writers have spoken with great
warmth, of some celebrated pictures and statues. The workmanship of
Heaven, certainly excels all our weak imitations, and, I think, has a
much better claim to our praise. For my part, I am not ashamed to
own, I took more pleasure in looking on the beauteous Fatima, than
the finest piece of sculpture could have given me. She told me, the
two girls at her feet were her daughters, though she appeared too
young to be their mother. Her fair maids were ranged below the sofa,
to the number of twenty, and put me in mind of the pictures of the
ancient nymphs. I did not think all nature could have furnished such
a scene of beauty. She made them a sign to play and dance. Four of
them immediately began to play some soft airs on instruments, between
a lute and a guitar, which they accompanied with their voices, while
the others danced by turns. This dance was very different from what
I had seen before. Nothing could be more artful, or more proper to
raise _certain ideas_. The tunes so soft!--the motions so
languishing!--accompanied with pauses and dying eyes! half-falling
back, and then recovering themselves in so artful a manner, that I am
very positive, the coldest and most rigid pride upon earth, could not
have looked upon them without thinking of _something not to be spoke
of_.--I suppose you may have read that the Turks have no music, but
what is shocking to the ears; but this account is from those who
never heard any but what is played in the streets, and is just as
reasonable, as if a foreigner should take his ideas of English music,
from the _bladder_ and _string_, or the _marrow-bones_ and _cleavers_.
I can assure you that the music is extremely pathetic; 'tis true, I
am inclined to prefer the Italian, but perhaps I am partial. I am
acquainted with a Greek lady who sings better than Mrs Robinson, and
is very well skilled in both, who gives the preference to the
Turkish. 'Tis certain they have very fine natural voices; these were
very agreeable. When the dance was over, four fair slaves came into
the room, with silver censers in their hands, and perfumed the air
with amber, aloes-wood, and other scents. After this, they served me
coffee upon their knees, in the finest japan china, with _soucoups_
of silver, gilt. The lovely Fatima entertained me, all this while,
in the most polite agreeable manner, calling me often _uzelle
sultanam_, or the beautiful sultana; and desiring my friendship with
the best grace in the world, lamenting that she could not entertain
me in my own language.
WHEN I took my leave, two maids brought in a fine silver basket of
embroidered handkerchiefs; she begged I would wear the richest for
her sake, and gave the others to my woman and interpretess.--I
retired through the same ceremonies as before, and could not help
thinking, I had been some time in Mahomet's paradise; so much was I
charmed with what I had seen. I know not how the relation of it
appears to you. I wish it may give you part of my pleasure; for I
would have my dear sister share in all the diversions of, Yours,&c.
LET. XXXIV.
TO THE ABBOT OF ----.
_Adrianople, May_ 17. O. S.
I AM going to leave Adrianople, and I would not do it without giving
you some account of all that is curious in it, which I have taken a
great deal of pains to see. I will not trouble you with wise
dissertations, whether or no this is the same city that was anciently
called Orestesit or Oreste, which you know better than I do. It is
now called from the emperor Adrian, and was the first European seat
of the Turkish empire, and has been the favourite residence of many
sultans. Mahomet the fourth, and Mustapha, the brother of the
reigning emperor, were so fond of it, that they wholly abandoned
Constantinople; which humour so far exasperated the janizaries, that
it was a considerable motive to the rebellions that deposed them.
Yet this man seems to love to keep his court here. I can give you no
reason for this partiality. 'Tis true, the situation is fine, and
the country all round very beautiful; but the air is extremely bad,
and the seraglio itself is not free from the ill effect of it. The
town is said to be eight miles in compass, I suppose they reckon in
the gardens. There are some good houses in it, I mean large ones;
for the architecture of their palaces never makes any great shew. It
is now very full of people; but they are most of them such as follow
the court, or camp; and when they are removed, I am told, 'tis no
populous city. The river Maritza (anciently the Hebrus) on which it
is situated, is dried up every summer, which contributes very much to
make it unwholesome. It is now a very pleasant stream. There are
two noble bridges built over it. I had the curiosity to go to see
the exchange in my Turkish dress, which is disguise sufficient. Yet
I own, I was not very easy when I saw it crowded with janizaries; but
they dare not be rude to a woman, and made way for me with as much
respect as if I had been in my own figure. It is half a mile in
length, the roof arched, and kept extremely neat. It holds three
hundred and sixty-five shops, furnished with all sorts of rich goods,
exposed to sale in the same manner as at the new exchange in London.
But the pavement is kept much neater; and the shops are all so clean,
they seem just new painted.--Idle people of all sorts walk here for
their diversion, or amuse themselves with drinking coffee, or
sherbet, which is cried about as oranges and sweet-meats are in our
play-houses. I observed most of the rich tradesmen were Jews. That
people are in incredible power in this country. They have many
privileges above all the natural Turks themselves, and have formed a
very considerable commonwealth here, being judged by their own laws.
They have drawn the whole trade of the empire into their hands,
partly by the firm union amongst themselves, and partly by the idle
temper and want of industry in the Turks. Every bassa has his Jew,
who is his _homme d'affaires_; he is let into all his secrets, and
does all his business. No bargain is made, no bribe received, no
merchandise disposed of, but what passes through their hands. They
are the physicians, the stewards, and the interpreters of all the
great men. You may judge how advantageous this is to a people who
never fail to make use of the smallest advantages. They have found
the secret of making themselves so necessary, that they are certain
of the protection of the court, whatever ministry is in power. Even
the English, French, and Italian merchants, who are sensible of their
artifices, are, however, forced to trust their affairs to their
negotiation, nothing of trade being managed without them, and the
meanest amongst them being too important to be disobliged, since the
whole body take care of his interests, with as much vigour as they
would those of the most considerable of their members. They are many
of them vastly rich, but take care to make little public shew of it,
though they live in their houses in the utmost luxury and
magnificence. This copious subject has drawn me from my description
of the exchange, founded by Ali Bassa, whose name it bears. Near it
is the _sherski_, a street of a mile in length, full of shops of all
kind of fine merchandise, but excessive dear, nothing being made
here. It is covered on the top with boards, to keep out the rain,
that merchants may meet conveniently in all weathers. The _besiten_
near it, is another exchange, built upon pillars, where all sorts of
horse-furniture is sold: glittering every where with gold, rich
embroidery, and jewels, it makes a very agreeable shew. From this
place I went, in my Turkish coach, to the camp, which is to move in a
few days to the frontiers. The sultan is already gone to his tents,
and all his court; the appearance of them is, indeed, very
magnificent. Those of the great men are rather like palaces than
tents, taking up a great compass of ground, and being divided into a
vast number of apartments. They are all of green, and the _bassas of
three tails_, have those ensigns of their power placed in very
conspicuous manner before their tents, which are adorned on the top
with gilded balls, more or less, according to their different ranks.
The ladies go in coaches to see the camp, as eagerly, as ours did to
that of Hyde-park; but 'tis very easy to observe, that the soldiers
do not begin the campaign with any great cheerfulness. The war is a
general grievance upon the people, but particularly hard upon the
tradesmen, now that the grand signior is resolved to lead his army in
person. Every company of them is obliged, upon this occasion, to
make a present according to their ability.
I TOOK the pains of rising at six in the morning to see the ceremony
which did not, however, begin till eight.
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