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Journal of Landsborough's expedition from Carpentaria, in search of Burke & Wills

by William Landsborough · English · Gutenberg #16243 · 393,231 chars · public domain (US)

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Title: Journal of Landsborough's expedition from Carpentaria, in search of Burke & Wills

Author: William Landsborough


        
Release date: July 8, 2005 [eBook #16243]
                Most recently updated: December 11, 2020

Language: English

Original publication: MELBOURNE: F.F. BAILLIERE, PUBLISHER, 85 COLLINS STREET EAST. LONDON: H. BAILLIERE. PARIS: J.B. BAILLIERE. NEW YORK AND MADRID. AND ALL BOOKSELLERS, 1862

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/16243

Credits: EBook produced by Sue Asscher


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF LANDSBOROUGH'S EXPEDITION FROM CARPENTARIA, IN SEARCH OF BURKE & WILLS ***




Produced by Sue Asscher





JOURNAL OF LANDSBOROUGH'S EXPEDITION

FROM CARPENTARIA,

IN SEARCH OF BURKE AND WILLS.


WITH A MAP SHOWING HIS ROUTE.


MELBOURNE:
F.F. BAILLIERE, PUBLISHER, 85 COLLINS STREET EAST.
LONDON: H. BAILLIERE. PARIS: J.B. BAILLIERE. NEW YORK AND MADRID.
AND ALL BOOKSELLERS.

1862.



LANDSBOROUGH'S EXPEDITION.

The readers of this pamphlet are no doubt aware that the anxiety
entertained for the fate of Burke and Wills led to the formation of
several expeditions in their search. The first of these was formed in
Melbourne and entrusted to the command of Mr. Howitt. The second in
Adelaide, under Mr. McKinlay. The third from Rockhampton, under Mr.
Walker; and the fourth from Brisbane, under Mr. Landsborough. These
several expeditions were organised and started within a short period of
each other. The steamship Victoria, Commander Norman, was despatched by
the Victorian Government to the Gulf of Carpentaria to assist the
explorers in carrying out their objects.

Mr. Howitt, as is well-known, early succeeded in ascertaining the
melancholy fate of Burke and Wills: but before his letter announcing it
reached Melbourne the other expeditions referred to had set out.

The brig Firefly was chartered in Melbourne to take from Brisbane to
Carpentaria Mr. Landsborough's party and equipments, and also some stores
for Mr. Walker's party, the latter having been instructed to proceed from
Rockhampton overland, by the shortest route, to a rendezvous at the Gulf.
The Firefly, having reached Moreton Bay and shipped the horses, set sail
for Carpentaria on the 24th August with Mr. Landsborough and his party.

As it is the object of this pamphlet to give details, especially of his
expedition, the journal, letters, etc., which follow, are now presented.

...


(NUMBER 1.)

BRISBANE PARTY, W. LANDSBOROUGH, ESQUIRE, LEADER, REPORT TO 30TH
SEPTEMBER 1861.

(COPY.)

Sweer's Island, Gulf of Carpentaria, 30th September 1861.

To Captain Norman of Her Majesty's Colonial War Steamer Victoria, and
Commander-in-chief of Northern Expedition Parties.

Sir,

I have the honour to inform you that the greatest attention was paid by
my parties to the horses for the expedition on board the Firefly, and
they ought, during the eight days after leaving Moreton Bay, while we had
the finest weather, to have done well, if their allowance of five gallons
of water each a day had been sufficient for them; but with that allowance
they were so thirsty that they did not thrive well. That quantity of
water may do well for horses intended for the Indian market, where they
can be fattened afterwards; but for our expedition horses, which were
intended for immediate service on landing, to be kept in a close hold,
confined by the cargo of the vessel, and fed with dry forage (they did
not eat the carrots at first, until they had acquired a taste for them)
eight gallons of water each per day at least should have been allowed to
them.

On Sunday the 1st instant, when Captain Kirby expected to get through the
Raine Island passage on the following day, where he hoped to get such
calm weather that it would admit of your giving him a fresh supply of
water, he allowed our party to give the horses a good drink. On that
occasion they drank each, on an average, nine gallons. Towards evening of
the same day the breeze freshened into a gale, and about ten at night,
when the Firefly was head-reaching under close-reefed sails, we had the
misfortune to lose sight of H.M.C.S. Victoria, under your command.

On Monday the 2nd instant the gale continued, and during the night the
ship was hove to with her head to the eastward.

On Tuesday the 3rd instant the gale still continued, but Captain Kirby,
having got observations of the sun, he boldly made sail in for the reefs,
and between eleven and twelve a.m. he sighted the Raine Island beacon,
and early in the afternoon he went through the passage, and got into
smooth water, where we congratulated ourselves, and were thankful, I
hope, to God, for the comparative safety of ourselves, and also of the
horses under our charge.

All the horses were alive except one, which, from the sand being pumped
from under its feet, had not been able to stand during the gale, and in
consequence had been trampled underfoot by the other horses and so much
injured that we were compelled to destroy it. About an hour before dark
we reached, with a fresh and favourable breeze, a point between the two
largest of the Sir Charles Hardy's Islands, where one of the anchors was
let go and, upon its dragging, another was let go, which dragged also,
until we were close to the lee shore, when it held, fortunately, till
after daylight of the morning of Wednesday the 4th instant when, the
cable parting, the brig went ashore broadside onto the reef which extends
for about half a mile from the base of the bold rocky island. The waves
breaking over the ship, the masts were cut away and fell over the side.
The smallest boat was then launched and immediately broke in pieces.
While the wreck of a masts was being cleared away by a good swimmer
called Muller, a Dutchman, in order to get a clear sea to launch the
ship's large boat, our party took the opportunity of feeding and watering
the horses, and in the meantime the tide had fallen so much that Muller
found footing. The boat was launched safely and, on being asked by
Captain Kirby, I went ashore with Mr. Martin, the supercargo, and a part
of the crew. We found we could wade on shore; and, on the previous
evening having seen the masts of a ship on the other side of the island,
Mr. Martin and I went across and found it was a vessel which had sunk
within half a mile of the shore in deep water.

At the abandoned camp of the shipwrecked crew we found a copy of The
Argus newspaper of the 14th June, a barrel of peas, fragments of paper
bearing the names of the Lady Kinnaird and Captain Chorley on them, a
part of a child's dress, etc.

On our return to the wreck of a Firefly, we found the crew very busily
engaged in carrying stores on shore on their backs, as Captain Kirby did
not like using the boat for that service, being afraid of having it
injured. In the evening we fed and watered the horses, and Mr. Campbell
offered to remain on board if he got someone to assist him to attend to
the horses during the night; but as there were drunken sailors on board,
and I thought the breaking up of the old Firefly not improbable, I did
not like remaining or asking anyone else to do so. After the ship struck,
the officers and crew considered themselves under no discipline, taking
from the stores whatever they wanted, and, I am sorry to say, much of the
Expedition spiced beef and other things were stolen, and many things
destroyed from recklessness; but I am pleased to add that, after your
arrival, when order and sobriety became prevalent, from the prompt and
wise measures adopted by you, a considerable quantity of the slops were
recovered by a diligent search through the effects brought on shore by
the crew of the Firefly.

Shortly after the ship struck I overheard one of the officers say that we
were all alike; and now that the vessel was a wreck the cargo belonged to
no one in particular; and one of our party overheard another officer say
to the crew: "There are twenty-two pairs of (Expedition) boots; help
yourselves. There are a pair each for all hands, and a pair to spare."

On the afternoon of Wednesday 4th instant (the day on which we were
wrecked) with Captain Kirby's approval I offered the carpenter five
pounds to cut the vessel close down to the water's edge to get the horses
out. (This, under the circumstances, I hope will meet also your
approval.) This he agreed to, and on the following morning when it was
almost high-water, he (the carpenter) and Muller swam off to the wreck to
do so, and shortly afterwards, when I had found a good place on the
island for watering the horses, I accompanied Messrs. Campbell and Martin
and three of my aboriginals to the wreck to assist the carpenter in
making a breach in the side of the Firefly. To do this work the only
tools the carpenter and his assistants had were two adzes and two small
tomahawks. My aboriginals, Jamie, Fisherman, and Jackie, worked hard with
the tomahawks, and were most able assistants in cutting the vessel down.

On Friday (the 6th instant) we landed safely twenty-five of the horses.
We were obliged to land them chiefly at low-water, and then we had to use
every precaution to prevent them swimming off to sea; for some of them in
the first instance, when we were not watching them, swam off and did not
drift ashore until they were exhausted, and one, after swimming for about
an hour in different directions, reached the southern island, about a
mile distant, with a strong wind and considerable waves against him.

On Saturday the 7th instant, while we were attending to the surviving
horse of four which had been trampled down by the stronger horses among
the floating empty water tanks, we had the great pleasure of seeing
H.M.C.S. Victoria coming to our relief; and I can assure you we were very
thankful, and our spirits much cheered by your telling us, after Captain
Kirby had intimated to us that he had abandoned the Firefly as a total
wreck, and in our presence told his crew that as shipwrecked mariners he
had placed them under your charge, that you would do your best under the
circumstances to enable us yet to start on our expedition from the Albert
River in search of Mr. Burke and his companions, and with that view you
would endeavour to get the Firefly afloat again, and have her refitted as
a transport hulk for the conveyance of our party, horses, and stores; and
if you did not succeed in that undertaking (which I hope you will pardon
us all for having thought a most hopeless affair) you would in several
trips transport our party, horses, and stores in H.M.C.S. Victoria.

Now that the great exertions made by you and your officers and crew in
getting the Firefly afloat again, in refitting her, in embarking
twenty-five of the horses, with our party and stores, and in transporting
them safely to the Gulf of Carpentaria, has been crowned with success,
allow me to congratulate you on those events, and to assure you that,
these difficulties being overcome, I have now great hopes of carrying out
at least satisfactorily, with the assistance of my brave, trusty, and
zealous companions, the instructions of the Victorian and Queensland
Governments, with those which I may receive from yourself.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victorian and Queensland Land Expedition.*

(*Footnote. Captain Kirby of the Firefly has since published a pamphlet
in which he states that my party were at times in a great state of alarm,
but in fairness to them I may mention that although they had frequently
much reason to be so, I never saw them exhibit any traces of fear. He
further states that from what he saw of them they showed great ineptitude
for camping out. This is surely very unlikely as we were all old
travellers, three of my party and myself had at one time been
gold-diggers, a mode of life well calculated to give the necessary
experience in this way. And as for Captain Alison, who had never been a
gold-digger, I observed on the island that his tent was particularly well
pitched.)

...

(NUMBER 2.)

(COPY.)

Sweer's Island, 8th October, 1861.

To Captain Norman, of H.M.C.S. Victoria, and Commander-in-chief of the
Northern Expedition Parties.

Sir,

I have the honour to inform you of the following particulars with regard
to the Albert River:

On Tuesday morning (the 1st instant) at 8 o'clock we reached the mouth of
the Albert River, on the sandy beach of Kangaroo Point.* There were about
a dozen blacks, who appeared friendly and kept speaking to us as long as
we were within hearing; but none in the barge (not even the native
troopers) understood them. With the exception of Kangaroo Point, on the
east bank, the river has an unbroken fringe of mangrove to a point two
miles in a straight line from its mouth, and an unbroken fringe to a
point three miles in a straight line from the mouth on the other side of
the river. Above these points the lower part of the river has (where the
edges have no mangrove) fine hard sandy sloping banks which are well
adapted for landing horses or goods. A short time before we reached the
point, above thirteen miles in a straight line from the mouth of the
river where we anchored for the night, we saw about six blacks, who were
very friendly and followed us for some time. We found that the water was
fresh when we reached Alligator Point, about twenty miles in a straight
line from the mouth of the river; above this point the fringes of
mangrove are scarce on the edges of the river, and back from the river
there is rising ground, consisting of fine, well-grassed, and slightly
timbered downs. On passing up the river, on the left bank, we observed a
blackfellow asleep. At sunset we anchored at a point about twenty-six
miles in a straight line from the mouth of the river, where a river from
the southward, which Mr. Woods called the Barkly, joins the Albert River.

(*Footnote. Kangaroo Point would in my opinion be a healthy site for a
township. The ground is sufficiently high along the shore at that place,
and without mangroves. We did not find water there, but, as there were a
few blacks almost always in that neighbourhood, I have no doubt that
there is some surface water, or that it is easily procured by digging.)

On going on shore on the western bank of the Albert River I found within
a hundred yards of it a waterhole at which it would be more convenient to
water stock than the river, as the banks of it are at this place too
steep. Above the junction of the Barkly the Albert River is not navigable
for even boats, from its being too full of snags. On the following
morning we went up the Barkly on the barge for about two miles, to where
it was too full of snags to proceed further up the river by water. We
then took a walk over the Plains of Promise and crossed at a point about
three miles from where we had left the barge. In doing so we started a
black man and woman; they were both old and naked; the former went out of
sight by running down the bank and plunging into the river, and the
latter climbed up a tree, where, while we remained, she continued
speechless. Where we crossed the Barkly it had a narrow muddy bed, the
water in which was cool from its being shaded with pandanus, palms, and
Leichhardt-trees. A short distance lower we recrossed by a tree which the
carpenter felled for that purpose, at a point where the deep water in it
is caused in some measure by the rise of the tide; afterwards we followed
down the river to the barge. At different places we marked the trees, but
did not see any that had been marked previously, nor indeed any traces of
any European parties. After walking over the Plains of Promise we went
down the river and anchored opposite the point where the cliffs are
mentioned in the charts as thirty feet high. In the morning, accompanied
by the native troopers Jemmy and Jackie, I went north-westerly over
slightly timbered grassy plains, and reached in about a mile a waterhole,
and in about another mile a narrow mere, which I called Woods Lake,
extending northerly and southerly at least for a mile or so in an
unbroken sheet of water. I went southward along the edge of Woods Lake to
a clump of box and tea-trees, and while I was marking a tree Jackie shot
(chiefly with one discharge of his gun) about half a dozen of
whistling-ducks and a large grey crane. As I never saw so many aquatic
fowls assembled as were at this place it is to be hoped that, when we
reach the Albert River again, we will be able to shoot great quantities
of them for fresh food.

The bank on which I marked the tree will, probably at no very distant
time, be chosen as the site of a homestead for a sheep establishment, as
it is surrounded by fine dry plains which are covered with good grasses,
among which I observed sufficient saline herbage to make me feel
satisfied that they are well adapted for sheep runs. As the wind was
unfavourable during the afternoon the crew had to row down the river. On
passing near where we saw the blacks on our way up we found about twenty,
counting men, women, and children, waiting to see us as we passed. On the
following morning we went ashore and got water in a waterhole near the
bank, and also firewood off an old fallen tree, which, I think, is
probably the real ebony. Late in the evening we reached a point on the
eastern bank about three miles above Kangaroo Point.

We went ashore and in the course of a walk started on the wing two large
bustards, and also, within shot of us, two or three wallabies.

In our way up and down the river the temperature ranged on the bar from
74 to 94 degrees. The nights were agreeable, and we were fortunately not
troubled with mosquitoes or sandflies.

On the upper part of the river we saw altogether three crocodiles, but
they were so shy that they remained in sight only a few seconds.

The slightly timbered downs and plains on the banks of the Albert River
are, as I hoped they would be from their western position, of a similar
character to good inland settled sheep country of New South Wales and
Queensland; the trees that we saw are all small; but as sheep do best in
Australia where the temperature is dry, the soil rich, and slightly
timbered, and as this is the general description, I believe, of the
country and climate of the Albert River, the sheep farmer should be
willing to put up with the inconvenience caused from the want of good
timber for building purposes.

We saw large quantities of the small white cockatoos, and the
rose-coloured ones, which are to be found only in the inland settled
country of New South Wales and Queensland. The Albert River being
navigable will make the country on its banks very valuable, as I believe
sheep will do well on it, more especially as they do well on
inferior-looking country within the tropics to the north-west of
Rockhampton.

Allow me to recommend for the depot which you propose forming with the
Firefly hulk on the Albert River some place as convenient as possible to
Woods Lake, or the waterhole that I mentioned that I had found near the
head of the navigation, and as there is very little forage on board the
Firefly it would be advisable to land, as soon as possible, the horses on
the west bank of the river above the second inlet, that is, if there is
any chance of the Firefly being delayed in proceeding up the river.

I have the honour to be, etc.,

(Signed) W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victorian and Queensland Land Expedition.

...

(NUMBER 3.)

BRISBANE PARTY, W. LANDSBOROUGH, ESQUIRE, LEADER.

CONTINUATION OF REPORT ON THE ALBERT RIVER, ETC.

OCTOBER 15TH 1861.

(COPY.)

Albert River, Gulf of Carpentaria, October 15 1861.

To Captain Norman of H.M.C.S. Victoria, and Commander-in-chief of the
Northern Expedition Parties.

Sir,

I have the honour to inform you that the senior lieutenant of H.M.C.S.
Victoria, having been commissioned by you to take the Firefly hulk to the
head of the navigation of the Albert River to form a depot there, shortly
after midnight of the 14th October, at the flood of the tide, which
occurs here only once in twenty-four hours, we stood in for the mouth of
the river and, as the channel is of a winding character, and the ship
almost unmanageable, we had to take her right over the bar. From thence
we proceeded some time after daylight with a fair wind, several miles up
the river to where we took grass on board, which some of my party, having
preceded us, had in readiness. On the 16th, from the time of the tide,
the wind being unfavourable, we had reached no further than Norman's
Group of Islands, which are about ten miles in a straight line from the
mouth of the river. At that place, from the small quantity of water on
board it became necessary to decide on what bank the horses should be
landed; consequently three parties started in search of water--a boat and
two land parties. The former, under the command of Mr. Frost, found a
good pond of water near the lowest water we had found when we first
explored the Albert River. In the same neighbourhood Mr. Campbell's
party, who went up the west bank of the river, found another waterhole,
which was distant from the ship, by the road they went, about four miles,
and passable for the horses, although partly over mudflats which during
high tides are covered with water; and on that account I thought, having
observed the country to be very low from the masthead, it would be
impassable.

I accompanied Mr. Bourne, Mr. Hennie the botanist, and two native
police-troopers to the eastward in search of water. In that direction we
went about six miles, which was further than was necessary as we found
water within that distance. The first three miles we went was chiefly
over hard flats which at high tides are covered with water; the next was
over such good country that Mr. Bourne, although I had given him my
account of the Plains of Promise, said he did not expect to have seen
such fine country on the Albert River. The character of the country is
plains with the best grasses on them. Mr. Bourne and I agreed in thinking
that the lowest of them (with the exception of there being on them no
cotton and cabbage saltbush) resembled in appearance, and from their
having salty herbage in abundance, some parts of the Murrumbidgee plains.
The higher parts are more thickly grassed and are slightly wooded with
stunted timber, consisting of box, apple, white-gum, cotton, and other
trees. The cotton-trees I had never seen before; but Mr. Hennie told me
they had been found by Dr. Mueller when in Mr. Gregory's party in the
expedition to Northern Australia.

On this country we found abundance of waterholes, some of which were
divided from each other by sandstone dykes and contained fresh, and
others brackish, water. Near the waterholes, at the most conspicuous
points of timber on our route, we marked trees. The north-easterly
waterhole I called Mueller Lake. It is a fine long sheet of water which
is brackish but not to an extent to render it undrinkable.

Before we reached any water on our way from the ship, we observed, at
some distance from us, several blacks, of whom three gins and three
children we overtook in their camps. These we tried to persuade by signs
to lead us to the nearest water, but they were so extremely terrified
that they clung to each other and would not move, except to point in the
direction in which by our proceeding a short distance we found it
ourselves.

On the 17th October the ship was taken alongside of the western bank of
the river, and, a landing stage having been made, twenty-three of the
horses were walked on shore and driven up to Frost's Ponds; the remaining
two from their being too weak were kept on board. A few of the horses
after their voyage were in good order, and the most of the others, which
were in such low condition from their insufficient allowance of water
from Moreton Bay to Torres Strait, now showed, from their having plenty
of water since their reshipment at Hardy's Islands, that they were in a
thriving state.

On the 20th Messrs. Bourne, Moore, Frost, and two troopers started up the
river on a shooting and land excursion. I accompanied them to near
Frost's Ponds where the horses were running, and I was glad to find the
horses were doing well, as I expected they would do, from the herbage of
the plains in that neighbourhood being of the most fattening character.
Late in the evening our sportsmen returned and gave a most glowing
description of about eight miles of the plains they had crossed in going
to and returning from some waterholes they had found, one of which was
within half a mile of the river. As they made their excursion an
exploring rather than a sporting expedition they shot very little,
although they saw several wallabies on the plains, and crowds of duck and
other aquatic fowl at the waterholes they passed in the course of their
walk.

On the 22nd, having made circulars to the effect that the Firefly hulk
and the horses (broad arrow before L) were on their way up the river, the
latter on the west bank, some of our party landed on the east bank and
stuck them up in places where Mr. Walker's party would probably find them
in the event of their passing us and following down that side of the
river. In doing so we went over a fine grassed plain, and in that
distance found two waterholes. On the 24th the blacks paid us a visit and
we gave them presents; but afterwards, as they stole some clothes that
were out to dry, we determined to give them no further encouragement
unless they returned the stolen things. This Mr. Woods, on the following
day, tried to explain to a few of them who swam across the river to the
bank that we were alongside of.

When I see naked blacks I am very much tempted to give them clothes and
tomahawks; but this should not be indulged for I have found from having
done so that the more they have got the more they have wanted; and on the
other hand I have found that when they got nothing from us they gave us
very little of their company and thus rarely gave us any occasion for
quarrelling with them.

On the 27th of October Mr. Campbell and the troopers went on shore and
collected the horses and took them up as far as Moore's Ponds.

From twenty-two observations, chiefly taken during the day, the
temperature has ranged from 69 to 89 degrees and averaged a fraction over
80 degrees. On the 29th we had a few drops of rain which reminded us that
we had hardly had any since we started from Brisbane, upwards of a couple
of months ago.

My party went in search of the horses yesterday and returned with them
today to the place where the ship was aground, a point about fifteen
miles in a straight line from the mouth of the river. The horses were so
fresh that to hobble them two of the quietest had to be caught to round
with them the others up. In the ten days that they had been ashore they
had improved more in condition than any horses I have seen do in other
parts of Australia in a similar period. To collect the horses they had to
go as far as ten miles in a north-west direction, to a saltwater creek
which, from Mr. Campbell's report, I believe is the River Nicholson. On
the following day I accompanied Mr. Campbell and the troopers to the
Nicholson River. The water in it we found not so brackish as that part of
the Albert River where we left the ship. I was surprised to find it was
not so broad as the river I have just mentioned. We encamped all night on
the bank of the river, and near our camp marked a tree (broad arrow
before L). On the 30th we returned to the ship after getting the troopers
to collect the horses and shoot a quantity of ducks. By counting my steps
I made the distance seven miles to a bend of the Albert River near which
Moore's Ponds are situated, and two miles and three-quarters further
brought us to the point near which the ship had reached. It is a grassy
plain between the two rivers, with a few stunted trees upon it; that
nearest the Nicholson River is the poorest soil, and the grass at present
upon it is very much parched up. A fine large enclosure for stock might
be formed by running a fence across from the Albert to the Nicholson
River.

On the 1st November we commenced making a yard for the horses and, having
got the assistance of two of the carpenters, we commenced to shoe the
horses. On the 4th I got a passage in the barge to H.M.C.S. Victoria,
which was stationed at the distance of seven miles from the mouth of this
river, to consult with yourself respecting the plan to be pursued in the
search for Mr. Burke and his companions, and to express my earnest desire
to have rations at the Albert River depot to make a second expedition by
the route which Mr. Gregory and I agreed to as the most likely way to
find traces to follow Mr. Burke and his companions--namely by skirting
the desert, and passing, as near as the country would admit of my doing,
to their starting-point, and also to go to a place on the Bowen Downs (a
well-watered country) to seek for a continuation of tracks seen by
Messrs. Cornish and Buchanan, which they thought were made by a South
Australian party, at a point rather less than 300 miles towards the Gulf
of Carpentaria from Burke's depot on Cooper's Creek.

On the 6th instant we left the Victoria together (as you are aware) for
the depot on the Albert River, and that evening after nine hours boating
reached our destination.

On the following morning, having proceeded up the river on the previous
day, reached the junction of the Barkly with the Albert River, near which
we found the tree marked by Mr. Gregory and Captain Chimmo, the former on
the left and the latter on the right bank; afterwards having marked lines
of trees, and marked on trees directions to lead the exploring parties to
the depot, we returned to it.

On the 15th, intending to start tomorrow on the inland expedition, I had
all the horses, in number twenty-three, brought up, the two weak ones
having died since our arrival at the Albert River, besides the five I
mentioned as having died on the voyage. We saddled and packed a few of
the wildest of the horses* to make them more tractable tomorrow, when I
hope, as I have mentioned, to start on our journey.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victorian and Queensland Land Expedition.

(*Footnote. The freshness of the horses was surprising: because so soon
after the hardships of their voyage, and the destruction of their forage
on board the Firefly by seawater, they were chiefly sustained, from
Hardy's Island till landing at Carpentaria, by grass cut by our party:
this was a task of some difficulty, as we had no implements for doing so
excepting our knives.)

...

(NUMBER 4.)

(COPY.)

NUMBER 1.

Albert River, October 18 1861.

To Captain Norman, H.M.C.S. Victoria.

Sir,

I have the honour to inform you that I have much pleasure, after the
conversation that we had with regard to Lieutenant Woods, in applying to
you for that gentleman to accompany me in the expedition, of which I have
the command, in search of Mr. Burke and his companions; and I feel that
for the unsurveyed western country in the route which I am instructed to
take, I have much more necessity for the services of that officer in an
astronomical point of view than Mr. Walker can have.

I have got a sextant for taking the latitude, but I have not a
chronometer, as Mr. Gregory thought the jolting it would get should
render it useless.

I hope, therefore, for the cause of science, etc., you will reconsider
the conversation I have had with you on the subject.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victorian and Queensland Land Expedition.

...

(COPY.)

(NUMBER 1.)

Victoria, off the Albert River, October 19 1861.

Sir,

In reply to your letter of yesterday, containing an application for
Lieutenant Woods to be allowed to accompany you on the expedition which
you command, in order to fix your position in a correct and proper
manner:

I have the honour to inform you that it was the desire of the Exploration
Committee I should furnish that assistance to Mr. Walker, and, having
only one officer that I can spare for that duty, I must withhold my
consent until I see Mr. Walker and you are nearer your departure. And
further, as I understood from Mr. Gregory that Captain Alison was engaged
for the purpose of carrying out that important part of the duty, you will
be so good as to explain your reasons for want of confidence in him.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) W.H. Norman, Commander.*

W. Landsborough, Esquire.

(*Footnote. I answered this letter; but, having sent a copy of it with
other papers from Carpentaria to Brisbane, I cannot at present present it
for publication.)

...

(COPY.)

(NUMBER 2.)

Norman's Group, Albert River, October 18 1861.

My dear Captain Norman,

I have much pleasure in informing you that we have landed safely
twenty-three horses, and have sent them to a waterhole which we have
called Frost's Ponds, where they had a great roll in the mud, which will,
I hope, protect their tender skins in some measure from the sun and
sandflies; two of the weak ones we have kept on board.

The wind and the time of high-water (at night) was very unfavourable for
going up the river, and, as we were short of water, I need not tell you
how glad I was to know of waterholes to which I could drive the horses.
Three parties went in search of water the day before yesterday, and were
all successful in finding it. Mr. Campbell went with one party and found
water on the west bank up the river. I went on the east bank, and in an
easterly direction got onto a finely grassed, openly timbered country,
within three miles, and at the edge of the timber, in less than three
miles further, found a fine waterhole, besides shallow ones, nearly all
along the last-mentioned distance. Mr. Frost found a fine waterhole
within five miles of here, to which we have driven the horses, as it was
on the route which we had previously determined upon as the best to take
if practicable.

I have not time at present to write you an official letter, except the
one I sent respecting Mr. Woods. The horses, from our having had from you
a liberal supply of water, are in much better condition than when they
left Hardy's Island.

I remain yours very truly,

(Signed) W. Landsborough.

...

(MEMO.)

(NUMBER 2.)

Being at the depot to start Landsborough on the South-West Expedition
from November 5th to 16th, and Walker not having arrived, I offered the
services of Lieutenant Woods, which Landsborough declined to accept of,
stating he considered they could do very well without any assistance.

(Initialled) W.H.N.*

(*Footnote. At Brisbane, where I met Captain Norman before I had started
on the expedition, he led me to expect that Lieutenant Woods would
accompany me to make astronomical observations whilst on my search for
Burke, provided I made application for his assistance. At Carpentaria,
having ascertained that Lieutenant Woods was himself anxious to accompany
me, I wrote the foregoing letter (Number 1) applying for that officer.
Captain Norman's reply to this letter I considered tantamount to a
refusal, and accordingly arranged to take Captain Alison. Having done so,
I may have stated to Captain Norman that I considered I could do very
well on this occasion without any assistance from him.)

...

(COPY.)

NUMBER 3.

Albert River, 15th November 1861.

Sir,

After the unexpected delay of this expedition, from circumstances and
accidents over which we had no control, on the 4th instant, in
consultation on board the Victoria, I informed you that my stock of
provisions for the crew of that vessel would only permit my remaining in
the Gulf for 115 days, and that in accordance with the spirit of my
instructions you ought to start so soon as possible for Central Mount
Stuart, or as near thereto as the nature of the country will admit of
your approaching it, and returning to this depot within ninety days from
this date.

You having reported yourself ready for starting tomorrow, and that you
have ninety days provisions at full allowance, with all the other stores
complete for the same time, it therefore only remains for me to fulfil
the wishes of the committee, and to inform you that they expect, on your
return to Queensland, to be furnished with a copy of your journal and
surveys; and that, as Mr. Walker has not arrived so as to enable me to
make arrangements for meeting him at the Limmon Bight River, you are to
consider that no such arrangement will be made, and that I shall look for
your return to this depot within the time specified. And as you have full
instructions for your guidance, the same as myself, I feel well assured
you will do all in your power to fulfil them, and will make such
deviations as the country will admit of in order to find any track of the
missing explorers, as well as to meet the wishes of the Exploration
Committee.

With reference to your suggestion of starting on a south-easterly
exploration after you return to this depot, rest assured I will do all in
my power to assist you in anything that may be likely to lead to the
discovery of the tracks of the missing explorers.

In conclusion, if any unforeseen accident should delay your return here
before my departure, I will bury one of the iron tanks and mark on the
large tree at the smithy where you will find it.

I will also take other precautions to ensure your getting the same
information by marking other trees, and sinking bottles with letters in
the ground. In the tank I will secure all the best stores, and if
necessary sink two to hold them.

With every good wish for your safe conduct, and speedy return before I am
compelled to depart,

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) W.H. NORMAN,

Commander, and Commander-in-Chief of Northern Exploring Parties.

W. Landsborough, Esquire.*

(*Footnote. It will be seen by this letter that Captain Norman approved
of my searching to the south-east when I returned from the south-west. I
may mention that, when bidding Captain Norman goodbye, before starting,
he told me that he would be very glad to see me return to the depot at
the end of two months.)

...

(Number 3.)

Albert River Depot, November 15 1861.

Sir,

I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of this day,
and to state that I hope to start on the journey recommended by you in
accordance with the instruction of the Exploration Committee.

I shall do my utmost to find traces of Mr. Burke and his companions
between here and Central Mount Stuart, and will, D.V., return within the
time (ninety days) which you have given me for that purpose, if I am not
delayed from sickness, or from the country being rather too dry or too
wet. I am very much pleased to learn from you that you are willing, as
well as lies in your power, to assist me in making a second journey in
search of Mr. Burke and his companions, between here and his depot on
Cooper's Creek; because I believe the traces seen of an exploring party
by Messrs. Cornish and Buchanan, nearly three hundred miles this side of
it, were of the parties we want to find, especially as that is a route
which the Victorian and South Australian parties may not be able to
explore, and one upon which my knowledge of the country will, I hope, be
of service to me.

With many thanks for the able assistance you have at all times given in
carrying out the views intended by this expedition, etc.,

I have the honour to be, Sir, with best wishes for your own health and
welfare,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victorian and Queensland Land Expedition.

Captain Norman of H.M.C.S. Victoria.

...

(COPY.)

Depot, Albert River, December 20 1861.

Sir,

Mr. Walker's party having arrived here for supplies on the 7th instant,
and left again this day, to return to the Flinders River for the purpose
of following up the tracks they have found of Mr. Burke to wherever they
may be led by them, I deem it my duty to inform you that for the relief
of Mr. Burke I consider it is not necessary you should return by the
overland route, as Mr. Walker's party will, no doubt, do all that is
possible, and not give up the following of the missing party by their
tracks to wherever they may lead to.

And notwithstanding my sanction to the contrary I deem it my duty to
inform you that for the relief of the missing explorers it is not
necessary for you return overland with your party, and that you ought to
return by the Victoria to Queensland in accordance with the instructions
of the Royal Society.

But as much will depend on the time you return here, and condition of
your horses and party for immediate service, to overtake and render
assistance in pursuing the tracks found, I must leave it to your own
decision to determine whether you do so or abandon your horses and return
by water.

As all the stores are at the depot that can be spared from the Victoria
(ammunition included) and I have left instruction for their being packed
in 50-pound packages ready for immediate use, should you arrive here in
time to overtake Mr. Walker your party might render some service towards
the main object of the expedition by joining in the following up of the
tracks found.

I have the honour to be, etc.,

(Signed) W.H. NORMAN,

Commander, and Commander-in-Chief of Northern Expedition Parties.

W. Landsborough, Esquire,

Leader of Brisbane Party for relief of Burke, etc.

...

(COPY.)

H.M.C.S. Victoria, off the Albert River, February 7 1862.

Sir,

I do myself the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of 22nd
ultimo reporting your return, and containing an outline of your
proceedings, and the nature of the country you passed through going
towards and returning from the direction of Central Mount Stuart; also a
tracing of your route for the Royal Society of Victoria.

In reply to your requisition in the same for a further supply of stores
for use on going on the south-east route, I regret to inform you that,
from not having them, I shall be unable to supply you with tea, sugar,
and rum; but such other articles as we have and can spare you will be
furnished with; but should you consider it will in any way endanger your
party going overland without the stores you have asked for, or from the
smallness of the number for which you can carry stores, or for
protection, I do not consider that it is imperative you should do so,
having every reason to believe that Mr. Walker's party will do everything
that is possible and necessary to continue following up of Mr. Burke's
tracks, and you can all return by Victoria; but, as you have stated,
there is a possibility of Walker losing the tracks, and you will have the
same chance of finding and following them up as he will by going on the
south-eastern route, you have my sanction to proceed if you consider you
can with safety do so, taking with you as many of your party and whom you
think proper, and the remainder will be taken round by this vessel.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) W.H. NORMAN,

Commander, and Commander-in-Chief of Northern Exploring Expedition to
Gulf of Carpentaria.

W. Landsborough Esquire, Leader of Brisbane party, etc.

...

(COPY.)

H.M.C.S. Victoria, off Albert River, Gulf of Carpentaria, February 6
1862.

Sir,

In reply to your letter of the 20th December 1861, in which you tell me
you do not deem it necessary for me to go on the second expedition I
proposed, namely, to the south-east, as Mr. Walker will no doubt do all
that is possible and not give up following the missing party, I beg to
disagree with you. I think, now that the tracks have been found, that it
is an additional reason for my going on the expedition, and that I will
have a much better chance of being successful in the main object of the
expedition than I had on my last one.

Mr. Walker will not be able probably to follow the tracks of Mr. Burke
and his companions, as too long a time has elapsed since these tracks
were made.

In conclusion I thank you for the sanction you have given me to proceed
on this expedition, especially as I never would have had anything to do
with it had I imagined that I would have been checked in going the way I
now propose; for all along I thought it would be the way where Burke's
tracks were most likely to be found, and more particularly after I
learned from Messrs. Cornish and Buchanan that they had seen what they
believed to be the tracks of Burke's party, about 200 miles to the
westward of Mount Narien.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victorian and Queensland Land Expedition.

Captain Norman, H.M.C.S. Victoria, Commander-in-Chief of Northern
Expedition Parties.

...

(COPY.)

(NUMBER 5.)

Depot, Albert River, January 22.

Sir,

I have the honour to inform you that our party arrived here all safe and
in good health on the morning of the 19th instant, when we were informed
of the successful overland journey, through, in a great measure, an
unknown country, of Walker's party, and of the glorious news of their
having found the tracks at the Flinders River of Burke's party returning
from the Gulf of Carpentaria; and also of your having found tracks lower
down the river, which were probably older than those found by Mr.
Walker's party, as the latter were the return tracks.

Mr. Walker's party, as you observe in your letter of the 20th ultimo,
will no doubt do all that is possible and not give up (if he can follow
the tracks) following the missing party, in whatever direction they may
go. This however they will find difficult and tedious, if not altogether
impossible.

I have brought back all the horses with the exception of two that were
drowned. I shall therefore, as I have your sanction, so soon as I have
recruited the horses and rested till there is a probability of my party
being able to travel, which we cannot do at present, as the country is, I
think, too boggy, start again, with a better hope of success in the main
object of the expedition than I had on my last journey, when, in
accordance with my instructions, I went as far as the dry state of the
country and my time would admit in the direction of Central Mount Stuart.

For our next expedition we have, as you are aware, no tea nor sugar. When
you are leaving, I am sure, if you can spare us any of these necessary
articles, you will do so; also some lime-juice, rum, quinine, caster oil,
and laudanum, which are so useful for the prevention or cure of diseases
to which we will be liable during or after wet weather.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of Victorian and Queensland Land Expedition.

Captain Norman, of H.M.C.S. Victoria,

Commander-in-Chief of the Northern Expedition Parties.

...

COPY OF JOURNAL.

W. LANDSBOROUGH, ESQUIRE, LEADER OF BRISBANE PARTY.

Albert River, November 18 1861.

Camp Number 2. Situated near the junction of Beames Brook.

Monday November 18.

From the Post-office Lagoon we went one and a half miles west, thence
over fine downs, chiefly wooded with acacia, two and a half miles
south-west, and reached a pond on the left bank of Beames Brook, near
which we had a dinner of young wood from a cabbage-palm-tree which
Fisherman felled near the steep bank of the running stream, at which
place we marked a tree (broad arrow before L) and likewise marked in the
same way a more conspicuous tree which stands a little further out from
the brook; thence eight miles south-west, over fine rich plains with a
good variety of grass upon them, and a few plants of saline herbs. It was
then time to encamp, as we had been travelling for five hours; we
therefore changed our course to north-west for three-quarters of a mile,
and reached a branch of the Nicholson River consisting of at least four
channels, one full of fine clear running water, on the right bank of
which we formed our Number 3 Camp.

Tuesday November 19. Camp Number 3.

The channels are shaded by drooping tea-trees, swamp-oaks, etc. As it was
unnamed on the charts I gave it the name of Gregory River. Some blacks
came up and watched the camp while we were packing. We started up the
river at 8.45 a.m.; we followed the right bank of the watercourse in a
south-south-west direction. At 9.50 we reached a fine point for a station
for stock, about two and a quarter miles by the river from camp, the
first mile and a half of which was in a south-south-west, and the last
three-quarters of a mile in a south by east direction. We could not cross
the river easily, so we kept on the right bank. At 10.20 we reached a
point on the riverbank half a mile south-west from the last. At 10.35 we
made half a mile south. At 10.45, steering south-west by south half a
mile we came to what seemed to be the junction of the creek. The course
of the river was then from south-west to north-east, so we followed it up
for three miles, where we unpacked the horses, as we wanted to water
them. The approach to the river was boggy. We stopped here and had some
dinner. On the bank marked a tree (broad arrow before L). In the
afternoon we travelled from 4.4 to 6.13, in the following courses:

At 4.20 half a mile south-west by south where we passed a fine waterhole.

At 4.40, one mile south-west by south.

At 5.5 one mile south-west.

At 5.30 one mile south-west by south.

At 5.55 one mile south-west to where we passed a broad reach of water.

At 6.10, three-quarters of a mile south-east to a point above junction of
a dry watercourse where we made our Number 4 camp. The edges of the plain
which we saw today in following up the river are of the richest soil, and
only sufficiently timbered to afford firewood for a pastoral population.
The grasses are of the best description. This is the character of the
whole of the country we have seen since we left our first camp. There is
no appearance on the country we have crossed of its having had rain for a
long time; but from the strong stream of water in the river I think there
must have been plenty of rain on the country higher up. I saw today, on
several low places, saltbush which the horses ate, of a kind I have often
seen in the western country from Rockhampton, but never before so near to
the coast. By following the river it has taken us nearly right on our
course towards Mount Stuart.

Wednesday November 20. Camp Number 4.

Situated on right bank of the Gregory River. Started at 8.13 a.m. and
steered south for about three miles, until 9.25; then I had to change our
course to south-south-east for about half a mile to where we tried to
cross the river, but could not find a suitable place for doing so.
Started again at 10.15 and reached at 11.15, by a south course, two and a
quarter miles to where we crossed a dry creek near its junction with the
river. We continued steering on the same course south for about one mile,
when we reached the bank of the river, and a further continuation of the
same course for one mile brought us to a place on the river where we
watered the horses. The watering-place was boggy but we could find no
better. Started again at 2.4 p.m., and at 3.30 made one and a half miles
south-south and by east; at 4 made one and a half miles in a south-east
direction, to where I went in search of a crossing-place, and in doing so
followed the river in a south-east direction for two and a half miles
without finding a place where the horses could approach even near enough
to the river to get a drink without a risk of their falling into the deep
water. We followed up the Gregory River thirteen miles by the courses I
have mentioned. We found the branding-irons did not answer for branding
trees, as it took a much longer time to do so than to mark them with a
tomahawk, so we buried them at a tree marked Dig, at the camp we left
this morning. Last night we had a potful of the young wood of the cabbage
palm, which tasted like asparagus. All the country we have seen today is
of a similar character to that described in yesterday's journal. This
afternoon we reached country on which rain had fallen recently and it was
in consequence covered with herbage so green that we did not think the
horses on it would require water during the night, so their not having
been able to approach it earlier in the day was not of any consequence.
We encamped but the night was so short and the mosquitoes so troublesome
that, what with watching and getting up at 3.45, we had hardly sufficient
sleep. I found at this time that the duties of exploring gave very little
time for fishing or shooting. At this period of our journey the sextant
was too much out of order for making sufficiently accurate observations
of the stars.

Thursday November 21. Camp Number 5.

On right bank of the Gregory River. Started at 8.30 a.m., and at 8.55 had
made along the same bank three-quarters of a mile in a south-south-east
direction; at 9.25 we made a mile further in the same direction; at 10.13
also in the same direction (south-south-east) two miles; at 10.30 changed
our course and made three-quarters of a mile south-east; at 10.45 by
following up the river we made half a mile south-east by south to a point
where I marked a tree with a broad arrow before LC+, where the river
assumed a new character. It has a broad hard bed with only a boggy spot
at the western bank. The crossing of the horses over this place was more
difficult than I expected, and had to be accomplished by strewing the
ground with grass. We started from the left bank of the river at 3.13
p.m., and at 3.40 made one mile and a quarter south and by east; at 4.18
two miles in the same direction; at 4.40 one mile south-east; at 4.54
half a mile further in the same direction; at 5.12 three-quarters of a
mile south in a fruitless search for water. Returned to the same bank by
an east-north-east line of one mile and a quarter in length, where we
encamped. The country we have seen on this side, although fine fattening
plains, is more thinly grassed and not nearly so rich as that on the
plains we saw lower down the river. At the camp we found marjoram, which
makes a pleasant drink. On this side of the river also we observed a
white stunted gum with leaves like that of the apple tree. I may mention
a few common trees which I have observed today--first, on the edges of
the river fine large tea-trees, with foliage (melaleuca) like the
drooping willow; beautiful Leichhardt-trees, pandanus, and
cabbage-palm-trees: on the banks and scattered over the plain, stunted
box, bauhinia, white cedar, and bloodwood; with the pandanus I got too
intimately acquainted for, while with merely a shirt upon me, leading a
restive horse across the river, I fell back and, rolling, got its thorns
into all parts of my body.

Friday November 22. Camp Number 6.

Situated on the left bank of the Gregory River. At 9.44 a.m. steered
south and by east for two miles, and by doing so went across a bend of
the river; at 9.58 made half a mile in a south by west direction; at
10.20 made a quarter of a mile in the same direction, to the left bank of
a watercourse, which was evidently a new one, and which I called the
Macadam, after the Secretary of the Royal Society. Stopped to fill
water-bottles and water the horses as I was afraid of the creek being dry
further up. Started again at 11.40 a.m. at a quicker pace, and at 12.10
p.m. made one mile and a half south; at 12.40 p.m. halted to adjust the
pack of a packhorse after having made one mile and a quarter further in
the same direction. Started again and at 1 p.m. made south and by west
(by following up the Macadam Creek) half a mile; at 1.20 one mile
south-west by south to where we stopped, and started again at 1.26; at
1.55 one mile south-west by south made a point near which there was water
in the Macadam Creek, and encamped.

With respect to the Macadam Creek, it is badly watered and has a dry
shallow aspect, and appears from the scarcity of flood-marks to have
seldom a stream of water in it, and I am of opinion flows chiefly through
flat country. This character of a river has in the settled parts of
Victoria, New South Wales, and Queensland, the best sheep country on its
banks; but here, where all the country is dry enough for sheep, this will
not be a qualification. Following it will be an unpleasant exchange to
the Gregory River with its beautiful stream of water, which I daresay
comes from well-watered highlands. At present the plains are dry and
parched.

The water at our encampment was very bad, in a great measure from its
being warm, shallow, and frequented by ducks and other birds. This is the
hottest day we have had. At first we thought we were going to have a
miserable camp, from the badness of the water; but in the afternoon a
fine cool breeze sprang up and at the water, or near it, we shot several
ducks, a large waterfowl, and some rose cockatoos; we had also as many
nice little figs as we liked to eat from a large shady clump of bushes
near the camp.

Saturday November 23. Camp Number 7, situated on Macadam Creek.

We started at 8.48 a.m. and at 9.23 had made two and a quarter miles in a
south-west by south direction. At 9.40 we made one mile further in the
same direction; from thence we went in a south line for one mile and a
quarter, and reached, at 10.10, at the end of that distance, a very fine
waterhole, 300 yards long and forty yards wide, very deep, with basaltic
dykes at both ends. I thought they were like white limestone. Here we
watered the horses. Started again at 10.55. At 11.55 made south along the
bed of the creek three-quarters of a mile. At 11.40 made a mile
south-west by south, where we stopped to adjust a pack, and started again
at 11.45. At 11.58 we reached in half a mile south-west by south a
waterhole in the Macadam Creek, near which there are a great many rocks
like white limestone. At this water we made another stop, and started at
12.20 p.m. At 1.3 made one mile and three-quarters south-south-west,
where we sighted the first hills we have seen since leaving the depot. We
went on the plain a quarter of a mile south-west by south to get
observations of the hills. They appeared to be twenty or thirty miles
distant. Started again at 1.37, with Fisherman, following the rest of the
party, who had gone on; and at 1.58 made three-quarters of a mile
south-west by west. At 2.6 a quarter of a mile south to a dry creek,
which we crossed. 2.40 we reached Macadam Creek in one mile and a half in
a south by east direction, where we overtook our companions. At 3 we went
in search of water up Macadam Creek three-quarters of a mile south. We
stopped to have a drink, and although the water from the leather bottles
was full of impurities we found it agreeable to our parched palates. We
started again at 3.20, and made south-west one mile to Gregory's River,
where we formed our seventh camp. The river is here a quarter of a mile
wide, running strong in two channels. It is uncrossable for horses, and
the intervening parts are crowded with fine large weeping tea-trees,
large Leichhardt-trees, tall cabbage-palm, pandanus, and other trees. It
is the finest and greenest-looking inland river I have seen in Australia,
and the country it runs through consists of rich-soiled plains, just
sufficiently wooded for pastoral purposes. Since we left the depot we
have not seen any country on which sheep would not do well, excepting
during the wettest and driest seasons. In country such as this it is a
singular fact that sheep do better, on the whole, in a wet season than on
ridgy country. With one exception, where the soil was clayey, the country
we have seen on this river is of the very richest description. At present
it is parched up, with the exception of a few patches of young grass near
the river. In many places the old grass is three feet high.
Notwithstanding the parched state of the grass, the horses have done well
upon it, indeed they could not look better if they had been corn-fed.

Sunday November 24. Camp Number 8.

We rested ourselves and the horses. Mr. Alison made a traverse table of
our course and found that we had made 55 miles south and 25 miles west
from Post Office Camp, near the junction of the Barkly with the Albert
River, and the latitude 18 degrees 45 minutes. The sun is too vertical
for taking it with my sextant and artificial horizon. We were rather late
in making observations of the sun, and we only got one sight of it, which
was made by myself. I brought it to a point within 180 yards of me on the
level bank of the river, which altitude made our latitude 18 degrees 57
minutes. Thermometer showed 90 degrees at 7 a.m. and 103 degrees at noon.
We got a fine potful of cabbage-tree sprouts, which eat like asparagus.

Monday November 25. Camp Number 8. Situated on the Gregory River.

From this camp we started at 8 a.m., but had almost immediately to halt
for ten minutes to adjust a pack on a riding-saddle. The other
packsaddles were constructed on Gregory's principle, and required less
adjusting. At 8.45 made one mile and a quarter south by west along the
bank of the river. At 9 made one mile and a half south-west by south. At
9.16 made half a mile further along the river in the same direction to
outlet of creek, which is probably what I have been calling Macadam Creek
(or River). At 9.23 made a quarter of a mile still further along the bank
of the river in the same direction, at which place hills were in sight a
short distance from our course. Fisherman and I started for the hills,
bearing 231 1/2 degrees, and in two miles we reached the hill, and from
the top of it we saw ranges from 67 to 328 degrees; but none of them were
remarkable. The hill we ascended was rocky and barren. Having taken
observations of these hills, Fisherman and I started to rejoin our
companions. The country was so parched up that Fisherman said, "Suppose
you leave him river, you won't find other fellow water." At 11.49 we made
one mile and a quarter south; at 12.10 we steered south-south-west for
about three-quarters of a mile, and reached the river, where, at a
blacks' camp, we overtook our companions. There were three gins and six
children, who were trembling with fear in and at the edge of the water.
In a short time they recovered courage, and one of the gins, to whom I
gave a red woollen neck comforter, wanted to get up behind one of my
companions, and although her advances were rejected she followed us until
Jemmy, the trooper, made signs to her to return to camp. We started again
at 12.30, and at 12.42 made half a mile south-west by west. At 12.56, by
following up the river, we made half a mile in a south-west direction. At
1.17 p.m. made three-quarters of a mile south by west along the bank of
the river. At 1.27 quarter of a mile south-west, where on the bank of the
river we had dinner, and had for salad cabbage-tree sprouts. The holes in
the river are here deep and long. Hills confine the river on both sides,
just above where we had dinner. The one on the right bank of the river I
have named Heales Ranges, and the one on the left Mount Macadam. Started
again at 4.53 p.m. At 5.20 followed up the river, one mile in a westerly
direction, over fine ridges of rich soil. At 5.27 quarter of a mile
south-west by west. At 6.25 made two and a half miles west-south-west to
left bank of the river, where we formed our ninth camp--the worst camp
the horses have had as the grass was completely burned up.

Tuesday November 26. Camp Number 9, situated on the Gregory River.

From this camp there are three hills on this side--the left--of the
river, visible from the camp; ranges bearing from north by east to north
by west I call the Hull Ranges; a hill west half south I call Mount
Moore. Fisherman and I set off when Campbell, Allison, and the horses
were all but ready to start, to go along the ranges to have a view of the
country. We went along the ranges which confine the river on the left
bank for forty-eight minutes, when we reached a point about two miles
west by south from camp. At 9.20 we started to overtake our companions.
At 10.12 made two miles and a quarter west by north, partly over ridges
of good soil, and partly over barren ridges, all of which were as dry as
a chip, to the track of our main party on the way up the river. At 10.40
made one mile southerly, and reached in that direction and distance the
bank of the river, where it washes the base of a steep hill on the
opposite side. At 11 we made three-quarters of a mile along the bank of
the river in a south-west and by west direction. At 11.12 made half a
mile west-south-west to a point on the bank where a hill on the left bank
is about quarter of a mile distant to the north-west. At 11.25 made half
a mile west-south-west to old channel of river. At 11.37 made half a mile
west along the river to a point where an isolated hill bore
west-south-west and by south. At 11.43 made quarter of a mile west and
watered our horses at the river. Started again at 12 noon. At 12.20
steered one mile west, overtook our companions, and halted to water the
horses of the main party. Started at 1 p.m., and at 1.50 made two miles
south-west by following up the river. At 2.24 made a mile and a quarter
south-west by west through a pass confined by hills on the right and the
river on the left. As soon as we got out of it we observed similar ones
on the opposite side of the river. At 2.45 made three-quarters of a mile
south-west by south to a point where we made our Number 10 camp. Today we
went up the river twelve miles and a half. During that space it is
confined more or less by ranges, which the river on either one side or
the other washes the base of when it is flooded. The troopers agree with
me in thinking that the river has the appearance of having a constant
stream of water. A small log of wood on the edge of the water I observed
was covered over with a stony substance formed by sediment from the
water. At one place in the river where we bathed the current was so
strong that it took our feet from under us in wading across. It is so
deep that it is not fordable except at the bars between the waterholes,
where it runs rapid. Its bed is full of large trees, among which I
observed gum, Leichhardt, tea, and cabbage-palm-trees. Along the edge of
the water it has a fringe of pandanus. Among the trees in the second bed
by the river there is coarse grass and other herbs. If we had seen the
country under more favourable circumstances, a short time after rain had
fallen instead of now, when the grass is dry and withered, I should have
called it most beautiful country; for, with the exception of a few barren
ranges the soil is very rich and clothed with the best of grasses. The
trees upon it are chiefly bauhinia, and stunted box and gumtrees, without
ironbark.

Wednesday November 27. Camp Number 10, situated on the banks of the
Gregory River.

Ginger, the old black horse, was missing until eleven o'clock, when the
troopers reported that they had found him in the river drowned, and
floating down with the stream. I had the horses brought down on the
previous evening to the only watering-place which was safe, but as they
were watered a few hours before they did not all of them drink so soon
again. From camp we crossed a bad gully and from it made a fair start at
11.52, having made at that place half a mile south-west by south. The
river is at this place closely confined on both sides by stony ranges; a
few drops of rain fell on us in that pass. At 12.40 p.m. made two miles
west to a small dry watercourse from the north, which is full of pandanus
at its mouth. The ranges on the left bank had on them dykes like
artificial ones, which run at different places across the hills. At 1
p.m. we made three-quarters of a mile in the same direction south to
another dry small creek from the north. At 1.14 we made half a mile west
by south to rapids with a fall of at least three feet, where the river
was still closely confined on both sides. At 1.45 made a mile south-west
to a small basaltic hill, opposite what appeared the junction of a larger
river from the west-south-west. As the crossing-place was bad in this
river the troopers and I crossed to look at the large watercourse; it was
running and so full of pandanus that we could not see it well. It might
be only another channel of the Gregory River. It has the broadest bed but
has not so much running water in it. The basaltic hill rose too close to
the river to let us pass so we had to go round it, and as soon as we had
done so we reached the junction of a creek from the north. The country
about here consists of stony barren hills and ridges, with the exception
of a few spots which have rich soil and excellent grass. There is slate
in abundance, and the country is like that of some goldfields I have
seen. At 3.40 made half a mile north-west up the creek, which has a slaty
bed, where we crossed. A little higher it has reeds and water in it. I
have called it the Stawell Creek. At 3.48 quarter of a mile south-west to
the river; we observed in crossing this point patches of triodia, or more
commonly called spinifex. The country near this part of the river is
wooded with stunted bloodwood. At 4.30 made one mile south-west up the
river. At 4.43 half a mile south-south-west to a point between river and
small basaltic hill with two little cones on the top of it, like the
cairns Mr. Stuart draws of those he made on Central Mount Stuart.
(Direction omitted, probably about south.) At 4.10 one mile and a quarter
to where we made our Number 11 camp, at which place I observed some
first-rate grasses, and for the first time on the Gregory River a few
tufts of kangaroo-grass. The country we have seen today is fine fattening
healthy sheep country; but it will not carry much stock as the grass is
thin. The horse drowned had been an unfortunate brute from the time of
our leaving Brisbane. On board ship he was nearly kicked to death by
other horses, having been trampled down during the wreck.

Thursday November 28. Camp Number 11, situated on the Gregory River.

Mr. Allison and I made from time to time observations of the sun and
stars; but as the sextant, which had been injured at the wreck of a brig,
was out of order, we had no confidence in those observations, and have
not preserved them. From Camp Mount Kay, a hill confining the river
closely on the left bank, about one mile and a half distant (looks about
three miles) bore 119 degrees; another hill about two miles distant bore
28 degrees; and another, two miles, bore 312 degrees; also a hill forming
the south end of the gorge of the river, about one mile distant up the
river 249 degrees. There is marjoram in abundance at the camp; but that
is hardly worthy of remark as it is very common all up the river from the
commencement of the high grounds. We were detained this morning as I had
a shoe to put on one of the horses and other things to do. At 9.20 a.m.
Messrs. Campbell, Allison, and Jemmy started up the river, and Fisherman
and I started to look for a river from the southward. At 10.5, after
having crossed the river, we made one mile and three-quarters
south-south-west over rising ground, of the richest soil with hardly a
tree upon it, to the foot of the ranges, at which place Mount Kay bore 56
degrees; the hill, probably, with the cairn on the top, 53 degrees; the
ranges bearing 68 to 71 degrees, which I think are on the right bank of a
watercourse we found soon afterwards, which I named the O'Shanassy River,
just above its junction with the Gregory River. A table hill, about a
mile distant 92 degrees. At 10.50 we made half a mile south-south-west to
the top of a range which has a basaltic stony character. From it we
observed that we were 327 degrees from a distant long-topped table hill.
Having got into broken country I depended too much on Fisherman to take
me out of it into the next valley, but he took me on to the river at a
point a considerable distance up its course. At 1 p.m. we returned to the
point, which is one mile and three-quarters south-south-west from the
camp we left in the morning. At 1.30 we made east-south-east, past the
little table hill to a beautiful valley of the richest soil, but now
without water, and all the grass parched up, at which point Mount Kay
bore north-north-west, about one mile distant. We then searched for the
river we expected to find coming from the southward, and found it by
following down the river north-east for one mile and a half below Mount
Kay, where we marked a tree--broad arrow before L. We then followed the
river up for half a mile and observed that it was running. It does not
join at the place which we the previous day thought was the junction of a
river. Just above the junction there is a scrub of large fig-trees, on
which there were a great number of flying foxes. There is a hill on the
right bank of the river, just above its junction with the Gregory, which
I named Smith's Range. In returning I observed at a point one mile and
three-quarters south-south-west from the camp remarkable hills on both
sides of the Gregory River, about half a mile above the junction with the
O'Shanassy, which I have named the Prior Ranges. At 4.48 we returned to a
point opposite Mount Kay. At 5.26 made two miles up the river to where
there are remarkable bluff hills on both sides of the river (the lower
hills of the gorge). At 5.50 we observed that we had passed the camp and,
as the river is difficult to cross even at its best fords, we went to the
camp ford, which the horses knew, as we had crossed there in the morning.
Having made camp at 6.35, at dark we made one mile and three-quarters
west, slightly southerly to the hill at the gorge, on the track of the
main party. Further than that Fisherman would not follow this track in
the dark, as it went over a basaltic rocky range. This was a bad camp for
us, the grass so parched up that the horses could not get any worth
eating, and we had nothing to eat ourselves. I was stung by a reptile,
probably a scorpion. The pain it gave was sufficient to make me very
uncomfortable during the night.

Friday November 29.

At 5.40 a.m. Fisherman and I started on the track of the main party. At
6.55 we made two and a half miles south-south-west by following the river
up a gorge to opposite junction of a watercourse from the south, which I
have named the Verdon Creek. At 7.18 made three-quarters of a mile
south-west by south up gorge of the river. At 7.35 made half a mile
south-west and by west to junction of a little creek from the north. At 8
made three-quarters of a mile west to a basaltic hill on left bank. At
8.25 three-quarters of a mile in the same direction, to a point opposite
a large creek from the south, which I have named Balfour Creek.
(Respecting it see Campbell's report.) At the lower end of a gap in the
basaltic wall, on the left side, there is a round-topped hill, just above
the junction of the creek. At 8.35 we made half a mile west-north-west to
the junction of a small creek from the north. At 9.4 made a mile west and
by north. At 9.13 a quarter of a mile to junction of a watercourse from
the north, which I have named Haines Creek. At 9.24 a quarter of a mile
north-west up this creek to Number 12 Camp. During the remainder of the
day we all remained in encampment except Mr. Campbell and Jemmy who went
and examined Balfour Creek, having been asked by me to do so. Mr.
Campbell gave me afterwards the following report of his survey;

I proceeded, accompanied by Jemmy to the Gregory River, and though I
endeavoured at several points to effect a crossing, we had to follow the
stream about four miles before an eligible place could be found. Here the
bottom is hard and stony, with about three feet of water running at a
rapid rate. Opposite this point I marked a gumtree with + before broad
arrow before L. I then proceeded up the opposite bank, and crossed two
dry watercourses, and at about two and a half miles came upon the branch
(I presume you to have meant) and found it going in a westerly direction.
There was but little water in it so far as I went; and, as it was not
running, I do not think water could be traced up any distance. I tried to
cross the Gregory at the junction of this creek, but the banks are so
boggy I had to return by the way I went.

...

Saturday November 30. Camp Number 12, situated on Haines Creek.

At 8.35 a.m. left the camp, and at 8.50 made half a mile south-east and
reached the river. At 8.57 made a quarter of a mile west. At 9.30 made
one mile and a quarter west-south-west along the river. At 9.37 made a
quarter of a mile south-west. At 9.55 made three-quarters of a mile south
to where there is a crossing-place at rapids, with at least six feet of a
fall. Made a delay of twenty minutes from having to go through pandanus
and tea-tree scrub, and then over rocks, etc. Made a fair start at 10.20.
At 10.35 made half a mile south-west. At 10.45 made half a mile south. At
11.10 made one mile and a half west-south-west. (About here kangaroos are
numerous.) At 11.23 made half a mile south-west by west. At 11.40 made
three-quarters of a mile west to a single column and wall, which I have
called Campbell's Tower. Mr. Campbell and I got into the tower, which we
found a delightful shelter from the heat of the sun, while the troopers
were getting cabbage-tree sprouts. Started again at 12.54 p.m. At 3.45
made what I supposed to be a branch of the river, as it was hardly
running. Having stopped the horses, Jemmy and I went in search of the
running water, and also to look for grass for the horses, as we did not
remember having seen any on the course we had come for some distance
back, except very coarse grass in the bed of the river, and old grass on
the bank, which was too dry to be of service. At a quarter of a mile
further we found the junction, on the right side of the river, of a
well-watered creek which I have named after Sir Francis Murphy. We could
not, from its bogginess, cross. We therefore returned, and recrossed at
the old place. There we went down the river and crossed between the creek
I mentioned. We then followed the same down on the right side about two
miles without finding the junction of the running stream; and as it was
late we returned to where we had left the main party, and near there
formed our thirteenth camp on the left bank of the river.

Sunday December 1. Camp 13, situated on the Gregory River.

On a particular examination of the grass about the camp I had a better
opinion of it, and thought it advisable to remain here until I had made a
search for the running water. At this camp we had a potful of
cabbage-tree sprouts, and we ate a large quantity of it with lime juice
which made it resemble rhubarb in taste. It agreed well with us, except
with Mr. Campbell, who was slightly sick from eating it.

Monday December 2. Camp 13.

Before starting to look for the running stream Mr. Allison and I clinched
and fastened with other nails the shoes on the horses that Jemmy and I
were going to ride. We left camp at 7.52 a.m. At 8.30 made one mile and a
half east. At 8.53 made one mile further east. At 9.6 half a mile
east-north-east to junction of a creek on the right side of the river,
which I have named the Wilson Creek. In the fork made by it and the river
marked a tree with broad arrow between E. L. At 9.27 we crossed the creek
and followed down the river. At 10.4 we made one mile and a quarter
north-east (chiefly at some distance from the river, on the top of the
high basaltic bank, which, from the want of soil, has nothing on it
except triodia and stunted bloodwood-trees) to a point half a mile south
of Campbell's Tower and west-south-west from a point about two miles down
the river. We started again at 10.13 and reached the rapids in the river,
which are about three miles above Number 12 camp; in doing so we kept
chiefly at some distance from the river on the barren basaltic rocky
ridges, and only crossed two dry watercourses. With some difficulty we
crossed at the top of the rapids. A few yards lower the stream is three
feet deep and several yards wide. Having now gone round the running
water, as the country is very dry on both sides of the river, it follows
that this fine stream proceeds from springs in the immediate
neighbourhood. We left the rapids to return to camp at 3.22 p.m. at a
smart walk. At 4.10 we made two miles and a half to a tree in a narrow
pass, which we marked with a broad arrow between E. L. At 4.20 started
again, and at 4.40 made one mile to Campbell's Tower; then at 5.9 two
miles and a half to a pillar 40 feet high. At 6.14 two miles and
three-quarters to camp.

Tuesday December 3. Camp 13.

At 8.15 a.m. we left this camp; crossed the river with the intention of
following it on that side when practicable. At 8.26 made a quarter of a
mile north-west. At 8.35 made half a mile west-north-west. At 8.50 made
half a mile south-west and by west. At 9.4 made half a mile
west-north-west. At 9.16 made half a mile west-south-west to junction of
another creek from the south, named by me Haughton Creek. At 9.45 made
one mile west-south-west to junction of another creek from the south,
named by me Dodwell Creek. At 10.12 made one mile west by north. At 10.20
made a quarter of a mile west to junction of another creek from south. At
10.27 made a quarter of a mile north by west. At 10.52 made
three-quarters of a mile north-west. At 11.7 made half a mile north-west.
At 11.20 made half a mile west and by south. At 11.40 made three-quarters
of a mile north-west. At noon made three-quarters of a mile west. At
12.26 made one mile west and by south. At 1 made one mile west by south.
At 1.7 made a quarter of a mile south to a point on the right bank, where
we formed our fourteenth camp, as we found there water in the river from
a recent thunderstorm. The bed of the river we had found perfectly dry
for some distance back. The river is badly watered along the course we
have come. Below our last camp it has quite a different character. There
are now only gumtrees in the bed of it, whereas lower down it was crowded
with green trees, consisting chiefly of fig, Leichhardt, drooping
tea-tree, cabbage-palm, pandanus, etc. All the country above Camp 11 on
the banks of the river is composed of barren, rocky, basaltic ridges,
which are slightly timbered with stunted bloodwood trees and overrun with
triodia, with the exception of narrow strips of flooded country on each
side of the river, on the lowest parts of which there is coarse grass,
and on the higher parts there are tufts of the best description of
grasses.

Tuesday December 4. Camp Number 14, situated on the Gregory River.

At 7.58 a.m. left camp and at 8.20 made three-quarters of a mile south to
opposite junction of creek from south, which I have named Fullarton
Creek. At 8.35 a.m. made three-quarters of a mile south-west to the
junction of another creek from south. At 8.53 made a quarter of a mile
west-south-west. At 9 made three-quarters of a mile west. At 9.20 made
three-quarters of a mile west-south-west. At 9.27 made a quarter of a
mile west-south-west to junction of creek from west. At 10 made one mile
south-west. At 10.35 made one mile south-west to junction of creek from
north named by me Dixon Creek. At 10.45 made a quarter of a mile
south-west. At 11.20 left main party to go in search of water, with
orders to party to return to old camp if not back in an hour. At 11.40
made three-quarters of a mile west to junction of small creek from south.
At 11.45 made a quarter of a mile west. At 12.10 p.m. made half a mile
north-west. At 12.40 made one mile north-west to junction of creek from
south-west which I have named Abbot Creek. At 12.48 made a quarter of a
mile south-west up the creek, and marked a tree in its bed. Fisherman got
some honey from a tree. At 2.30 made a quarter of a mile south-west,
proceeded up the creek. At 2.40 made a quarter of a mile south-west,
passed the junction of two small creeks. At 2.58 made three-quarters of a
mile south-west by west. At 3.20 made three-quarters of a mile south. At
3.30 made a quarter of a mile south-west to junction of small creek on
south side. At 3.53 made three-quarters of a mile south. At 3.58 made a
quarter of a mile south-east. At 4.8 made a quarter of a mile
south-south-west, at which point, having marked a tree with broad arrow
over L and not having found either water or grass since leaving Number 14
camp, we started to return at 5.5. We reached our honey delay tree in
about two miles and three-quarters. At dark we reached in about three
miles to where we had left our party, when we went in search of water,
and in a distance of fully five miles and a quarter to Camp 15, situated
about one mile higher up the river than Camp 14. From our companions we
learned that Jemmy had been up the river, and although he had been away
all day, had returned without finding any water. He observed however a
smoke to the southward, where water very probably may be found, as these
fires are generally kindled by the natives near water.

Thursday December 5. Camp Number 15.

Mr. Campbell having gone today in search of water, made the following
report:

Left camp at 8.15 a.m., accompanied by Jemmy. On reaching the rise above
the camp I steered in a south-west direction which we followed for six
miles over a barren country intersected in many places by deep gullies or
watercourses; one of these we followed to its junction with a very wide
channel, larger, in my opinion, than the Gregory at the point where we
left that stream. From its appearance I imagine it has not been visited
by a flood for a considerable period, as in many places it is overgrown
with rank grass and young timber.

We followed this channel up for some distance in the expectation of
finding water in the deep holes along its bed, in one of which we
discovered a native well, but which was quite dry.

Seeing after a time there was no prospect of procuring water by following
this course, I left the channel and proceeded in a south to south-east
direction, and (being advised by Jemmy) and having neither water nor
provisions with us, determined on returning back, seeing no probability
of obtaining water in the character of country through with we were
travelling. On our return we made the channel before mentioned several
miles to the north, which we followed down, and it brought us into the
Gregory, about four miles above our camp. Distance travelled about thirty
miles.

...

Friday December 6. Camp Number 15.

Fisherman and I left camp this morning to go in search of water. At 9.50
a.m. made three-quarters of a mile south to Fullarton Creek. At 10.15
made one mile south up the creek. At 10.43 made one mile south up the
creek. At 10.50 made a quarter of a mile south-east. At 11.8 made a
quarter of a mile north. At 11.15 made a quarter of a mile east. At 11.35
made a quarter of a mile east, general course of creek. At 11.40 made a
quarter of a mile south-east. At 11.50 made half a mile south. At 12.7
p.m. made three-quarters of a mile south. At 12.52 made two miles south.
At 1.18 made one mile south by east, to a plain with tableland of the
richest soil, and with grasses of the most fattening nature, but which at
this time are old and dry. This tableland I have named Barkly Plains,
after His Excellency Sir Henry Barkly. At 1.26 made a quarter of a mile
south by east three miles and three-quarters south to plains, to reach
which we crossed barren ridges with gullies, having an easterly course.
To the south-west not a tree was to be seen. At 3.37 made two miles and a
quarter south, with which course we skirt the left edge of Barkly Plains.
Stopped here and had some dinner. Started again at 4.15. At 4.30 p.m.
made one mile south where Fisherman shot and dressed an emu. At 5.23 we
started again. At 5.40 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east to
a watercourse which I have named Pratt Creek. At 5.45 made a quarter of a
mile south-east down the creek to water. Proceeded about one mile
further, and then returned about halfway to where we encamped (compare
with 7th December). The grass in this neighbourhood is good, excepting of
course on the ridges, which are barren and covered with triodia. The
creek has been recently flooded, and has remaining in it, I hope,
sufficient water to last us until we find more permanent water to which
we can proceed. I think that watercourses do exist, both to the right and
left of the plain, from the general appearance of the country running
parallel to the plains.

Saturday 7th December.

Started to return to camp at 8.25 a.m. At 9 a.m. made one mile
north-west, and having tracked the emu there it was then packed upon the
packhorse; we started again at 9.20. At 10.10 made two miles and a half
north. At 11.8 made one mile and a quarter north to the barren ridges. At
11.42 made one mile and a half north over the ridges. At 12.56 p.m. made
two miles and three-quarters north. At 1.20 made one mile north-west
where we had dinner and started again at 1.55. At 2.5 made a quarter of a
mile north-west by north. At 2.15 made half a mile north-north-east to
outward tracks upon Fullarton Creek. At 5.35 made seven miles and a half
to the junction of creek with river; upon the point formed by junction
marked tree (broad arrow over L). At 6 made half a mile and reached Camp
Number 15.

Sunday 8th December. Camp Number 15.

Being anxious to benefit by the water in Pratt Creek, on Barkly
Tableland, we left camp at 11.7 to go to it. At 11.20 a.m. made half a
mile to marked tree at junction of Fullarton Creek. At 11.25 made two
miles and three-quarters to a cross log. Soon after Mr. Campbell was
taken unwell. At 2.20 p.m. made four miles to where we left the creek
when upon its right bank. At 3.20 made three miles and a half south over
barren ridges to Barkly Tableland, where we delayed until 4.10. At 5.17
made three miles south. At 5.45 made one mile and a quarter south by
east. At 6.56 made three miles and a quarter south by east. At 7.13 made
three-quarters of a mile south. At dark made one mile east-south-east and
encamped at Pratt Creek.

Monday 9th December. Camp Number 16.

Mr. Campbell has been for some days somewhat unwell. Jemmy and I started
down the creek in search of more permanent water. At 12.6 p.m. made one
mile and three-quarters east-north-east on right bank to the junction of
small creek. At 12.20 made three-quarters of a mile east-north-east over
barren stony basaltic ridges, overrun by triodia and slightly timbered
with stunted bloodwood and bauhinia trees, to a plain of rich soil
covered with fattening grasses. At 12.30 made half a mile east-north-east
over a plain to where we observed smoke half a point northerly of the
course we had just come. Kept towards it, thinking water might be found
near it. At 1.32 made two miles and a half east-north-east, chiefly over
ridges of a character like those I have previously described, to a
watercourse which I have named Burrows Creek; its course is easterly. At
1.52 made three-quarters of a mile east-north-east to a tree from which
Jemmy got some honey. Started again at 2.30. At 4.50 made three miles and
a half east-north-east to a small creek from the north. At 5 made three
miles and a quarter east-north-east to another creek from the north. At
6.23 made three miles to a little creek from the south. At 7.20 made two
miles and three-quarters easterly down the creek from the south. At 8.15
made two miles north-east. Made down the creek in search of water but had
to camp without succeeding. The latter part of the day's journey has been
along a stony barren ridge, as I have described, which told severely on
the feet of the horses.

Tuesday December 10th.

Not being able to proceed further with our lame and thirsty horses I
deemed it advisable to return campwards at 6.30 a.m. At 7.30 a.m. made
two miles and three-quarters west-south-west to where I told Jemmy to
lead the way over the range and follow down one of the southerly creeks
in search of water. At 8.35 made three miles south-west by west to the
head of the creek. At 9.20 made four miles and three-quarters south-east
down the creek, where we left it, as its course was contrary to the
direction of the camp. At 9.50 made one mile and a quarter
west-south-west to another small creek, which we also resolved to follow
down a short distance in search of water. At 10.12 made one mile south
down the creek. Crossed our old tracks. At 10.27 made half a mile
south-east. Left the creek. At 10.53 made one mile west-south-west. At
11.3 made half a mile south-west to creek, which we also searched. At
11.35 made one mile south-south-east down creek, and then left it; no
appearance of water, which we very much wanted. At 1 p.m. made two miles
south by west. At 2 made two miles and three-quarters west half north
where we gave our horses each two quarts of water from our leathern
bottles, and changed saddles so that Jemmy could ride the packhorse, as
the one that he had been riding was not able to carry him any further. At
3.15 made two miles and three-quarters west by north to our outward
tracks, and also a great number of emu tracks, from which we concluded
that water existed in the neighbouring creeks. At 3.50 made one mile and
a half west-south-west to Burrows Creek. At 4.5 made half a mile
north-east where we had to proceed without our packhorse down the creek a
considerable distance without noting the distance, as I was too thirsty.
As the birds were very numerous here, we were convinced that we were near
water. The continual noise they made was more tantalising than can well
be conceived: it sounded to us like, "We know where there is water, but
you foolish fellows cannot find it." About one mile further down the
creek we came upon a hole very recently dry, in the bottom of which we
dug with a pointed stick, clearing away with our hands to the depth of
two feet. We found muddy water, with which we quenched our thirsts and
gave the horses a few quarts of it. Having hobbled our tired horses we
started upon foot to look for water. We went up the creek a mile to where
it is joined by another branch; this we followed up for about two miles,
and found a hole with a few gallons of water in it. In about a mile we
crossed over to where we had left the packhorse, which we found after a
prolonged search. At 12.10 a.m. made half a mile north-east down Burrows
Creek to the junction of Pratt Creek. At 1 one mile and three-quarters
north to our well. At 1.25 started to take the horses to the water. At 3
two miles and a quarter south by west to the water previously found; and
unsaddled our horses. We were twenty-two consecutive hours, more or less,
engaged, during which time Jemmy never showed any signs of fatigue, or
unwillingness to proceed.

Wednesday December 11th.

Jemmy and I started to follow up the creek to camp. At 10.20 made four
miles up the creek to where we found just sufficient water to quench the
thirst of the horses, and after delaying for that purpose we started
again at 10.50 a.m. At 11.20 made one mile to the best pond of water that
we have seen either up or down the creek. One of the horses was so fagged
that we delayed in consequence till 12.35. At 12.50 made half a mile up
the creek to opposite junction (or main) one-eighth of a mile to opposite
junction of another creek. At 2.27 made three miles up the creek to Camp
17, where we were glad to find from Mr. Campbell that he had quite
recovered from his illness.

Thursday December 12th. Camp Number 16. Situated on Pratt Creek.

At 8.50 made one mile south-west by south up the creek from Number 16
Camp to a waterhole where Fisherman and Jemmy were filling the
water-bottles to carry on the packhorse, so as to supply us whilst in
search of more water. At 10.4 made one mile and a quarter, about south to
a waterhole up the creek. At 12 made five miles and three-quarters
south-west to one of the branches of the Gregory River, which I have
named Elliott Creek, over rich well-grassed plain country. At 12.10 made
one mile south to where Jemmy left us to return to Camp 16. At 1.24 made
two miles south, where we left following up Elliott Creek, despairing of
finding water in it. At 1.35 made half a mile south-west to a tree which
Fisherman climbed to look across the plains. At 6.24 made thirteen miles
south-west, which distance on that course took us across the plain near
to a large clump of timber. The grass on the plain is good, with a
considerable quantity of saltbush among it, but we were afraid we would
not find water in the watercourse we were approaching, we had seen so few
birds on the plain. At 6.43 made one mile south to a clump of trees
resembling myall, which I have seen before to the west of Rockhampton. At
8 made two miles and three-quarters about south down the watercourse in
search of water, having stopped for our supper and started again. At 12
made two miles and a quarter south by west down the watercourse to some
young grass, where we camped for the remainder of the night.

Friday December 13th.

In the morning we heard a great number of birds and expected to find
water. At 6.5 a.m. made three-quarters of a mile west in search of water,
hearing birds in that direction. At 6.44 made one mile about south-east
back to the creek. At 8.45 made six miles about south-west down the creek
in search of water to the junction of watercourse from the north which I
have named Pring Creek. On the point between the two creeks we marked a
tree with a broad arrow before L. At this place we stopped until nine
o'clock and in the meantime gave the horses each two quarts of water from
the supply we had with us. At 9.25 made one mile north-north-west up
Pring Creek to the junction of a creek from north. At 9.35 made one mile
north-north-west up the latter creek to where we started for Number 16
Camp without having found water. At 10.47 made three miles and
three-quarters west by north over rich thinly timbered plains, the grass
old and dry. At 11.22 made one mile and a half north-east to our outer
track below camp on creek. At 11.38 made three-quarters of a mile about
north-north-east up the creek. At 11.55 made three-quarters of a mile
north to last night's camp. At 12.26 p.m. made one mile and a quarter
north-east up the creek. At 1.3 made one mile and a half north to where
we supped last night. At 1.30 made one mile and a quarter north-east at
where we stopped and started again at 2 p.m. At 2.20 made one mile
north-east to the plain. At 3.10 made two miles and a half north. At 7.15
made ten miles and a half north-east to lookout-tree, which we made
steering by compass. At this place I gave the horses almost all that was
left of the water, as I thought that Fisherman would be able easily to
lead the way to Camp 16, and I being so confident of this paid no
attention to the course that he was leading me. At 11.30 I found that
Fisherman did not know where he was, so I gave my horse his head,
thinking he would go to water near Number 16 Camp; but he searched along
the bed of a watercourse for water and found a fine waterhole, where we
saw a fire on the banks, at which we thought there were probably blacks,
as boughs and a net had been recently placed around the water to ensnare
large birds. After we had got a supply of water we watered the horses and
went west-north-west about one mile and a half to a point on the plain
about half a mile distant from the watercourse, where we hobbled out the
horses and stopped till morning.

Saturday December 14.

The watercourse I named Clifton Creek. At 6.30 a.m. Fisherman and I left
our camp. At 7 made one mile east-south-east down Clifton Creek to where
we passed from left to right bank, which we then followed up a few yards
to the junction of a larger creek on the right side, where there is a
fine waterhole. At 7.45 made one mile east-south-east down the Clifton
Creek to where we stopped for breakfast, and started again at 9.35. At
9.42 went quarter mile south-east across a range to a creek with deep
empty holes. At 9.49 went quarter mile south-east to plain. At 10.40 went
two and a half miles south-east to a large river, with large waterholes
recently empty, surrounded by tall cabbage, pandanus, and large drooping
tea-trees. I ascertained afterwards that it was the O'Shanassy. One of
the cabbage-trees we cut down to get its centre sprout to eat. Started
again at 11.40. At 12.13 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east,
passed the junction of two creeks, one from the east and one from the
west. At 12.45 made one mile north-west across a range to dry creek. From
the range we saw the river had a north-north-east course. At 1.9 made one
mile north-west up a barren, rocky, basaltic range to rich well-grassed
plains. At 1.33 made one mile north-west to a creek with empty deep
holes. At 2.10 made two miles north-west to Clifton Creek, where we had
breakfast, and started again at 3 up the Clifton Creek. At 3.15 made
three-quarters of a mile north-west up the creek to where we crossed to
left bank and left it. At 3.50 made one mile and three-quarters
north-west over a fine downs ridge covered with green grass. At 4.15 made
one mile north-north-west to outward track on right bank on the Pratt
Creek. At 4.45 made one and a quarter mile north-east and at 5 made
three-quarters of a mile north-east in the direction of Number 16 Camp.
At 5.9 made quarter of a mile north by east to creek. At 5.17 made
quarter of a mile north over a barren desert grass ridge. At 5.30 made
one mile and a half to Number 16 Camp. At 5.40 we left Number 16 Camp to
go two and a half miles south-west by south to where our companions had
formed Number 17 Camp in our absence.

Monday December 16. Camp Number 17. Situated on Pratt Creek.

At 8.15 left camp to go to the fine waterhole at the junction of a creek
from the west, which I have named Campbell's Creek, with Clifton Creek.
At 8.48 made one mile and a half south-west by south. At 9 made half a
mile south-south-west to tracks made, when Fisherman and I returned to
Number 17 Camp. At 9.45 made two miles south-east down to Clifton Creek.
At 10.10 made one mile south-east down the creek to where we formed our
18th camp. At the camp we had a severe thunderstorm which lasted for
about four hours. At the two previous camps Mr. Allison made observations
of the sun with the plains for a horizon, which were very satisfactory,
as the latitude obtained was nearly the same as that of my dead
reckoning, also nearly the same as the latitude made with the
observations of the stars Aldebaran and Castor with an artificial horizon
at Number 16 Camp. Observations taken at Camp 16: Aldebaran 19 degrees 14
minutes 21 seconds; ditto Castor 19 degrees 24 minutes 30 seconds; ditto
Sun 19 degrees 24 minutes 30 seconds; ditto dead reckoning 19 degrees 24
minutes. At Camp Number 17 about two miles southward from Camp 16: Sun 19
degrees 26 minutes 47 seconds. At Camp Number 20: Sun dead reckoning
nearly the same 19 degrees 37 minutes.

Tuesday December 17. Camp Number 18. Situated on Clifton Creek.

Left camp at 7.32. At 8.15 made two miles south to dry creek from
south-west, where we were delayed till 8.32; at 8.50 made three-quarters
of a mile south to the plain; at 10.45 made five miles and a half south
to a watercourse which I have named Darvall Creek: at 11.10 made
three-quarters of a mile west by south up the creek; at 11.32 made one
mile south-west by south; at 11.48 made three-quarters of a mile
south-west by south; at 12.8 made three-quarters of a mile south-west
where we crossed the creek; at 12.13 made quarter of a mile south-west to
junction of creek; at 12.35 made one mile west-south-west to left bank of
the creek; at 1.10 made about one mile south-west up the creek; at 1.27
made three-quarters of a mile south-west up the creek; at 1.34 made
quarter of a mile west-south-west to where we stopped, as some of our
party were looking for water, at 3.35 made three miles and a quarter
south-east to where, having found a little water in a watercourse with an
easterly course, which I have named Wilkie Creek, we formed our 19th
camp.

Wednesday December 18. Camp Number 19. Situated on Wilkie Creek.

At 7.10 a.m. Fisherman and I left camp to search for water; at 7.20 made
half a mile south-east; at 7.50 made one mile and a half east by north
half north over well-grassed plains to poor soil ridges slightly timbered
with bauhinia, stunted box, and bloodwood trees; at 8.6 made
three-quarters of a mile east by north to a little creek; at 8.20 made
three-quarters of a mile east by north to a watercourse which I have
named Allison's Creek; it has narrow channels and flats, timbered with
gum trees, and thickly covered with what is called on Darling Downs oaten
grass: At 8.30 made quarter of a mile south by east up the creek: at 8.50
made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east to a small rocky hole with
a little water in it: at 9.45 made one and a half miles east-south-east
up the creek to where we left it: at 10.6 made three-quarters of a mile
south-west by west to a little creek from east; at 10.15 made quarter of
a mile south-west to plains; at 10.45 made one mile and a half south-west
across the plains; at 11.17 made one mile and a half west-south-west to
where we stopped to have dinner under a solitary tree which cast a deep
shadow. Started again at 1 p.m. At 2.10 made three miles and two-thirds
west-south-west across the plain, without finding the track of Campbell
and party; at 4.30 made six miles and three-quarters north-west over
unbroken rich plains, timbered slightly with bushes; at 6.16 made four
miles and a half north-east to where some of our party on a previous day
went in search of water; at 6.45 made one mile and a quarter east a short
distance back from right bank of creek; at 7.15 made one mile and
three-quarters north-east by north to where he went down right bank of
creek to search for water; at 7.22 made quarter of a mile
north-north-east searching down the creek in vain for water; at 8.5 made
two miles along yesterday's outward track to waterhole in Darvall Creek,
where the horses were watered yesterday, near which on the left bank of
the creek we found Messrs. Campbell and Allison had encamped.

Thursday December 19. Camp Number 20. Situated on Darvall Creek.

Accompanied by Mr. Allison I went out on the plain to a point about
three-quarters of a mile south-west by south from camp, where Mr. Allison
made the noon altitude of sun 85 degrees 57 minutes, which gave the
latitude 19 degrees 37 minutes, which was nearly the same as my dead
reckoning. Mr. Campbell and Fisherman returned to camp, having been out
in search of water. He brought back a turkey which he had shot, and the
good news that he had found water up the creek. At 6.30 p.m. we left
Number 20 Camp; at 7.45 made three miles west-south-west up the creek to
the waterhole which Mr. Campbell had found, near which on the right bank
we formed our 21st camp. The banks of the creek at this camp descend in
gentle slopes, and consequently have a continuation of rich soil from the
plains; and as the grass was not too old it proved one of the best camps
for horses we have hitherto had.

Friday December 20. Camp 21. Situated on the Darvall Creek.

The troopers and I left this camp at 10.4 to go in search of water; at
10.45 made two miles west-south-west to the junction of a watercourse
from south-west which I have named Turner Creek; at 11.14 made one mile
and a quarter up Darvall Creek; at 11.37 made one mile west by north
further up the creek. All the country we have seen since we started
resembles the rich country about the camp. At 12.4 made one mile west by
south to where there are trees, which I have named Western Wood; at 12.27
made one mile south through Western Wood scrub, it is full of salt herbs,
of which the horses were fond of eating as they went along; at this place
we saw cockatoos and pigeons. From seeing them we searched for water but
did not find any; at 1.20 one mile and a half south-south-west across
rich well-grassed plains to a belt of acacia, overlooking a plain to the
westward, but beyond it a line of trees stretching north and south which
I have named Manning Plain. At 2.40 went three miles and three-quarters
west to a belt of Western Wood scrub; at 2.57 went three-quarters of a
mile west to where we stopped to have dinner; we started again at 4.25;
at 4.53 made one mile and a quarter west by south to a watercourse from
the north-west; at 5.30 made one mile and three-quarters about south-east
down the creek to our old track of the 12th instant; at 6.35 made one
mile and a quarter to our old camp; here we again encamped.

Saturday December 21.

Having used the water up on the additional packhorse that we had brought
on this occasion with us, Fisherman left us, taking back the packhorse to
the camp; at 6.5 Jemmy and I started down the watercourse which I have
named Herbert Creek, in search of water; at 8.4 made six miles south-west
across rich fine plain country to Pring Creek from north-north-east; at
8.14 made half a mile north by east down Pring Creek to a point at the
junction with Herbert Creek where we had on the previous occasion marked
a tree broad arrow before L; at 8.30 made three-quarters of a mile
south-south-west down Herbert Creek to where we saw a flock of pigeons,
and immediately after found a little water, where we halted, but again
started at 8.47; at 9 made half a mile south-west down the river; at 9.20
made three-quarters of a mile south-east down the river; at 9.40 made one
mile east by south down the river, at 10.10 made one mile about
south-east down the river; at 10.30 made three-quarters of a mile
south-east down the river to where we found a little water out of small
holes in the rock, which seemed like a robbery from the flocks of little
birds which surrounded them; from here we started again at 11.5; at 11.15
made a quarter of a mile south to junction of large creek from
south-west, which I named Hervey Creek, near which we observed several
flocks of pigeons; at 11.50 made half a mile east-south-east to where the
channels are confined, and where there is on the left side a strange deep
rocky pit; at 12.12 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-west down
the river; at 12.21 made quarter of a mile south-east down the river; at
12.35 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east to the junction of
creek from north-east which I have named Chester Creek; at 12.58 made one
mile south-east by east down the river; at 1.6 made quarter of a mile
south-south-west to a very fine waterhole which I have named Mary Lake.
This place seems to be a favourite resort for blacks; the banks are
covered with mussels, and all the firewood burned. We turned the horses
out for some time; it is surrounded with bushes of polygonum; at 4.32
started to return to Number 21 Camp; at 4.50 made one mile north to
Chester Creek; at 6.15 made five miles north across high stony rich plain
country, where we encamped, as there was a patch of young grass for the
horses.

Sunday December 22. Camp.

From camp on left bank of little dry creek we left at 6.20 to return to
Camp 21; at 8 a.m. made six miles north to left bank of Herbert Creek; at
8.20 made one mile and a quarter north up the creek to old camp, where we
delayed to give the horses water from the bottles, and started again at
8.38; at 10 made three miles and a half in different directions to the
Western Wood tree, where we had dinner on Friday last; at 11.20 made
three miles and three-quarters to east side of Manning Plain, where we
lost the tracks and delayed looking for them till 11.40; at 12.20 made
three miles, where we met Fisherman with a horse loaded with water.
Started again at 12.50; at 1.44 made two miles and three-quarters east;
at 2.8 made one mile east; at 3.2 made two miles and three-quarters east
by north to 21 Camp.

Monday December 23. Camp Number 21. Situated on Darvall Creek.

We left this camp at 9.3 a.m. on a south-west course. On that course from
camp we crossed and recrossed the creek. At 10.3 made two miles and
three-quarters south-west over rich well-grassed tableland plains,
slightly timbered with bushes. We observed the small saline herbs which I
have mentioned the horses to be so fond of, also more of the Queensland
saltbush than we have seen previously; at 12.3 made four miles and a
quarter south-west by west to Manning Plain, where we delayed, and
started again at 12.14; at 1.20 made two miles and a quarter south-west
by west where we delayed and started again at 1.35; at 2.20 made two
miles and a quarter south-west by west, where we having halted started
again at 2.48; at 3.10 made one mile south-west by west to where we found
yesterday's tracks; at 4.35 made four miles south by east to Saturday
night's camp; at 4.45 made half a mile south to where Mr. Campbell's
horse knocked up; at 6.19 made three miles and three-quarters south; at
6.27 made a quarter of a mile south half east to Chester Creek; at 6.52
made one mile and a quarter south half east to Mary Lake, where we formed
our twenty-second camp.

Tuesday December 24. Mary Lake.

Rested ourselves and horses, and put shoes on Mr. Campbell's horse with
screw nails. We found the punching and fitting of the shoes difficult and
tedious, although Mr. Gregory, who is himself a first-rate hand at that
sort of work, assured me that it would not be a troublesome operation.

Christmas Day. Mary Lake.

As ducks were abundant and the grass good this was a fine place for
spending Christmas. In the afternoon Jemmy and I went down the river in a
south-south-east direction to a fine waterhole, which I have named Lake
Frances; between Mary Lake and it, we only found shallow pools of water
from the last thunderstorm. We saw a fat old white-headed blackfellow and
his gin near the waterhole. The gin was very anxious about the safety of
her four dogs and carried one of them in her arms; but on our approach
she abandoned it and fled into the water; but afterwards seeing the old
blackfellow had gone up a tree she followed his example. Jemmy not
understanding their language we could not get any information from them.

Thursday December 26. Camp Number 22, situated on Mary Lake on Herbert
River.

We left this camp at 7.37 a.m. At 7.42 made a quarter of a mile
south-west by south to end of Mary Lake; at 7.52 made half a mile south
on left side of the river, to plains, which are slightly timbered; at 8
made half a mile south-south-east, skirting the river to Lake Frances; at
9 made three miles; at 9.19 made three-quarters of a mile south to where
we crossed a watercourse from the east which I have named the Don Creek:
at 9.30 made half a mile south-south-west on left side of river over
plains; at 9.41 made half a mile south by west to where I waited for the
party, who came up at 9.45; at 10.5 made one mile south by west to where
we crossed a creek from north-east; at 10.24 made three-quarters of a
mile south by west; at 10.45 made one mile south to the left side of the
river; at 11 made three-quarters of a mile south-east by south along the
dry bed of the river, from which we started successive flights of
pigeons. At this place Mr. Campbell and party halted with the horses
while Mr. Allison and I went about a mile westward onto the plain, where
he made the altitude 86 degrees 30 minutes, which makes the latitude 20
degrees 6 minutes, agreeing with the latitude of my dead reckoning and
with an observation I made of a star last night; at 3 Jemmy, who had gone
down the river, returned without finding any water, except what was left
by the last thunderstorm; and as he told me I was following up a river,
and not down, I too hurriedly believed him, and made up my mind to return
to a waterhole that Fisherman had found to the right of our course in the
bed of the river. At the waterhole I found blacks, but, as I always avoid
them when I can, after I had a short interview with them we started down
the river to the water Jemmy had found, following along the right bank as
we had the left before; at 4.40 made two miles and three-quarters down
the river to where we crossed, near its junction, a river or a branch of
one from north-west; at 5.8 made one mile and a half back to where Mr.
Allison went on the plain to get an observation; at 5.20 made half a mile
south; at 5.40 made one mile south to where the river has two channels;
the one trending to the west of south we crossed, between the two
channels of the river; at 5.53 made half a mile south to where the left
channel of the river was full of water and fine grass on its banks, on
the right bank of which we formed our twenty-third camp, at the place
where Mr. Allison made an observation of the sun. The country is very
level and the watercourses are unconfined, and in times of floods the
water overflows the low banks of the different channels. The blacks we
saw today appear to be circumcised; three of them approached us, one of
whom was the old blackfellow we had seen yesterday. Their name for water
we thought from what they said was oto. We presented them with a tin pot
and two empty glass bottles with which they were very much pleased.

Friday December 27. Camp Number 23, situated on the Herbert River.

Left camp at 8.24 a.m. to go down the river; at 8.35 made half a mile
south-south-west to where we crossed, near its junction, a western
channel of the river; at this place there are flats covered with bushes
like saltbush, which the horses eat. These bushes I have observed on the
western plains from Rockhampton and on most of the low situations along
our route on this expedition; at 8.43 made half a mile south; at 8.48
made a quarter of a mile south-west where we crossed, near its junction,
a more western channel of the river; at 9.10 made one mile south-west by
south to where we crossed, near its junction, a river from west, with a
shallow and broad channel; the banks of the river at this place are very
little below the level of the plain on each side of it; at 10.10 made
three miles south-south-west with level plains on each side of us,
without trees or bushes, except along the watercourses; at 10.30 made one
mile south to the right bank of the river, where there are twelve
box-trees growing in its bed; before crossing to its left bank we got
enough water to satisfy the horses; at 11.4 made one mile and a half
south to a junction of a watercourse with extensive flood-marks from the
east. This river has a deeper channel, with trees on its banks, than the
river we have been following down had. At 11.15 made half a mile south,
when Mr. Allison and I went back to the westward, on the plains, and got
the following altitude of the sun: 86 degrees 37 minutes, which makes the
latitude 20 degrees 11 minutes 15 seconds; at 1.35 made three-quarters of
a mile south down the river; at 1.47 made a quarter of a mile south-east
down the river; at 2.20 made one mile and a quarter south, following the
course of the river in search of water; at 3.10 made one mile and
three-quarters about south-south-west, following the course of the river
in search of water; at 3.44 made half a mile about south-west, following
the course of the river in search of water; at 4.10 made one mile and a
quarter about south, where, accompanied by the troopers, I left Campbell
and Allison to go in search of water; at 5.20 made three miles about
south-west down the river in an unsuccessful search for water; at 6 made
two miles north-east by east; returning, we steered over plains, the
grass of which was completely parched up. Near the creek I observed more
owls than I have ever seen anywhere before; at 6.27 made one mile and a
quarter north-east by east back to our party; then went, at 6.56, one
mile and a quarter north by east, towards where we had seen the last
water; at 7.15 made one mile north by east; at 7.35 made three-quarters
of a mile north-east; at 8 made three-quarters of a mile about north-east
by north and encamped.

Saturday December 28. Camp Number 24, situated on the Herbert River.

We started back up the river being unable to pursue our course to the
westward from want of water. I sent Mr. Campbell and Jemmy on with the
horses, while Mr. Allison and I went out on the plain to take an
observation of the sun, which was not satisfactory from the sun being
over-shadowed; we made the latitude 20 degrees 12 minutes 35 seconds; at
1.21 p.m. made three miles north by east from where we took the sun's
altitude; at 1.53 made one mile north to where we crossed a channel of
the river; at 2.35 made two miles and a quarter north by east partly on
the tracks of Campbell and party; at 2.50 made three-quarters of a mile
north-north-east to where we recrossed left bank of the river and
overtook Campbell and party. Here we delayed till 3.22 in consequence of
one of the horses being knocked up; at 3.40 made one mile north by east
to where we recrossed the right bank of the river; at 3.55 made
three-quarters of a mile and encamped. Here the grass was very abundant
and the holes full of water. This camp is about half a mile from Number
23 Camp.

Sunday December 29th. Camp 25. Situated on the Herbert River.

It was our intention to remain here for several days as the grass was
good and the horses required a rest, but I deemed it advisable to return
at once up the river because there were about one hundred blacks in the
neighbourhood of the camp, some of whom were so bold that I feared it
might be necessary to shoot some of them, or give them possession of the
ground. Two of them had passed our camp on the previous evening, and the
troopers, with my consent, presented them with glass bottles, after
receiving which they soon returned with a large mob, who remained with us
till dark. In the morning they returned and surrounded the camp. Mr.
Campbell went up to one mob and tried to make them understand by signs
that we had peaceable intentions towards them, but they from his account
seemed fully bent on having us off the ground. When he was returning to
the camp Jemmy saw one of the blacks hold his boomerang as if he intended
throwing it at Mr. Campbell, but he was probably advised by others not to
do so. I am not surprised that they were vexed, as we would not allow
them to come up to the camp, although they showed a bunch of hawk
feathers and two bottles we had given them, which they wanted us to
believe were the signs of their good intention; and it is not to be
wondered at on the other hand that we would not trust a mob of blacks,
all warriors, heavily armed with spears, boomerangs, clubs, and little
thorny sticks, to approach the camp. From my previous knowledge of the
blacks I fancied we would easily have driven them away on horseback, but
this I did not think necessary. The mere fact of seeing the horses
brought towards the camp made them retire to a more respectful distance
from us; at 10.5 a.m. left Number 25 Camp; at 10.18 made half a mile
north-east half north to Number 23 Camp, where I stopped with Fisherman
and observed that we were not followed: at 10.45 made half a mile
north-north-east up the river; at 11.23 made one mile and three-quarters
north to the place where I accompanied Mr. Allison on a previous occasion
westward on the plain to take an observation of the sun, at which place
we overtook Campbell and party; at 11.48 made one mile north to where we
observed rising ground. I left the party, accompanied by Fisherman, to
ascend the rising ground; at 12.2 made half a mile north-east by east to
a tree on the rise which Fisherman climbed, and from it observed plain
country to the south and west and wooded country to the east and north.
Here we observed stunted box and bloodwood trees, and a variety of
grasses, among which I observed barley, oaten, kangaroo, and triodia; at
12.23 made one mile north by east; at 12.53 made one mile and a half
north by east to the waterhole I named Kenellan, where there were the
same blacks I had seen before. On this occasion they remained on the
right, while we had dinner on the opposite side, during which time others
to whom they cooeyed arrived at their camp, several of whom were loaded
with game. These, heedless of their own camp or of us, bathed the first
thing on their arrival. We shot ducks, and before leaving Kenellan
presented to the blacks glass bottles of which they were very proud; at 5
made one mile and a quarter north-north-east to Lake Frances, where I
bathed, and some of our party shot ducks. Started again at 5.33; at 6.40
made three miles about north-west by north (see outward route). At 6.56
made three-quarters of a mile north by west; at 7.15 made three-quarters
of a mile north-north-east to Mary Lake, on the lower end of which on the
left bank we formed our twenty-sixth camp.

December 30th. Mary Lake. Situated on the Herbert River.

As some of our horses were not able to travel as far as Camp 21, or to
any water we knew of to the northward, in one stage, without overworking
them, Jemmy and I started to try and find water in the intermediate
distance. Started at 5.55. At 6.5 made half a mile north-east to where we
stopped till 6.20; at 6.47 made one mile and a quarter north by east; at
7.10 made one mile north by west half west to Chester Creek; at 7.28 made
three-quarters of a mile about north-north-east; at 7.52 made one mile
and a half north-east up the creek; at 8 made a quarter of a mile east up
the creek; at 8.10 made half a mile east by south up the creek; at 8.38
made one mile north-east to where we left the creek, because the grass in
the bed of it was parched up, and as we saw no deep holes. It has however
high and extensive flood-marks; at 9.20 made two miles west-north-west;
at 10.26 made three miles west by south to bank of Herbert River; at
10.37 made half a mile north-north-west up the river to where we left it
to follow up the Hervey Creek; at 10.50 made half a mile about north-west
up the creek; at 11.17 made one mile about west by north up the creek. At
11.30 made half a mile south up the creek, where I went on to the plain
and took the noon altitude of the sun, which was not very satisfactory as
I did not give myself sufficient time to go far enough out on the plains.
Latitude from observation 19 degrees 53 minutes 39 seconds. Started back
without having found water at 12.27; at 12.50 made one mile south-east
back to Hervey's Creek; at 1.30 made two miles east by north to Herbert
River; at 1.40 made half a mile east-south-east down the river: at 1.45
made a quarter of a mile about south-east to the strange pit on the left
side of the river; at 2.45 made three miles to camp. Cantered the last
half mile or so and forgot to look at the watch until a short time after
our arrival.

December 31st. Mary Lake.

We left Number 26 Camp bound for Number 21 camp; at 7.32 made one mile
and a half along an old track to where we crossed Chester Creek; at 9.10
made four miles and a half to First Return Camp; at 10.45 made four miles
and a half along outward track to Western Wood Scrub, where, accompanied
by Fisherman, I went three miles north-east by east and got an
observation of the sun which made our latitude 19 degrees 47 minutes 35
seconds; at 12.50 started again; at 1.20 made one mile and a half north
by west to tracks of Campbell and party; at 1.35 made three-quarters of a
mile east-north-east along the track; at 1.58 made one mile about
north-east to where we lost the tracks, and was delayed a short time in
consequence; at 4.5 made half a mile, chiefly along the track; at 5.8
made three miles, where Campbell and party had formed our twenty-seventh
camp at our Outward Camp 21. During this day's journey we have crossed no
watercourse that I deem worthy of notice, except Chester Creek.

Wednesday January 1st 1862.

At 21 Outwards and 27 Inwards Camp we rested the horses, some of which
were very sore-footed and tired. We also observed New Year's Day by
dividing a bottle of rum, sundry pots of jam, and an extra allowance of
meat amongst us. The waterhole was nearly dry.

Thursday January 2nd. Number 27 camp.

At 6 a.m. we left 27 Inward and 21 Outward Camp, situated both on the
right bank of the creek; at 7.35 made two miles about east by north half
north down the creek; at 7.53 made three-quarters of a mile north-east to
Number 20 Camp; at 8.7 made half a mile east-north-east down the creek,
where we left it to go on the tableland on its left bank; at 9.5 made two
miles and three-quarters north to where we crossed a small creek, which
is from the west; at 10.45 made four miles and a half due north, and
there, having instructed Campbell and Allison to proceed to Clifton Creek
and encamp, accompanied by Fisherman, I went two miles and a half west,
and made our latitude by observation of the sun 19 degrees 31 minutes 35
seconds. Jemmy I had sent back for my rifle, which was left behind. At
12.45 started to camp; at 1.47 made two miles and a half east-north-east
to Camp 18 Outward and 28 Inward on Clifton Creek.

Friday January 3rd. Camp 28.

From old stubs out of cast-off shoes Mr. Allison shod a horse for
Fisherman to accompany me to the O'Shanassy River. We started for it at
11.50. At 1.25 reached it, in about four miles and a half, at a point a
short distance below, where we had been on it a few days ago. We found it
had been flooded since we last visited it, and the holes along its bed
were in consequence full of water. Judging from this that rain had fallen
from the southward, I felt disposed to proceed in that direction, but
considering the short time at my disposal and the condition of the horses
and their want of shoes, and knowing that the time was fast approaching
when the Victoria would, from want of provisions, be obliged to leave the
depot at the Gulf of Carpentaria, I considered it expedient to continue
my return journey.

Saturday January 4th. Camp 28.

We left Inward Camp 28 and Outward Camp 18 at 9.2. This camp is situated
on Clifton Creek; at 9.38 one mile and a quarter east down the creek to
the broad arrow L tree; at 10 made three-quarters of a mile north to
where we left the creek; at 10.20 made three-quarters of a mile
east-south-east to rich tableland; at 10.38 made half a mile south-east
by south to track where Mr. Allison stayed behind to get the latitude; at
10.50 made three-quarters of a mile east; at 11.18 made three-quarters of
a mile east to O'Shanassy River; at 11.52 made one mile and a half
north-east by north to the junction of Clifton Creek, on which we had our
last night's camp; at 12.16 made one mile north-east by north down the
river; at 12.45 made one mile and a quarter east by north down the river;
at 12.55 made half a mile east by north to junction of little creek from
the south. Ridges on both sides, long straight race covered with blady
grass, near deep reach of water, which has apparently a permanent stream;
at 1.30 made half a mile east by north to where we crossed a small creek
from the south; at 1.40 made half a mile east-north-east to where we
crossed, near its junction with the O'Shanassy River, a watercourse from
the south named by me the Douglas River; at 2.50 made one mile and a
quarter north down the river to where we crossed a small creek from the
south-east. The O'Shanassy has a good stream of water. On these ridges I
observed marjoram. They are nearly barren and confine the river closely
on both sides. At 3.15 made three-quarters of a mile north-east along a
confined part of the river where it has very high flood-marks; at 3.40
made half a mile east-north-east to where we crossed a little creek from
the south, near its junction. At 4.3 made quarter of a mile east down the
river; at 4.15 made quarter of a mile east-south-east down the river; at
4.30 made quarter of a mile east up a gully from right side of the river;
at 4.40 made quarter of a mile north-east down a gully to the river; at
4.50 made quarter of a mile east down the river to where we formed our
29th camp. Here we were joined by Mr. Allison and Jemmy. The former, near
where they left us, made the latitude 19 degrees 31 minutes 49 seconds,
which is nearly the same as I made it a few miles to the westward.

Sunday January 5. Camp 29.

Started at 8 a.m. and went along the edge of the river which was very
confined; so much so that the horses had at one place to be led.
Accompanied by Fisherman I left the party and went a few hundred yards
ahead to a creek full of water to widen with a pick a path up the creek.
While I was doing so Mr. Campbell reported that some of the horses had
gone into the river of their own accord, and one of them was drowned
although Jemmy and he had swum to its assistance. On hearing of this
misfortune I came down to the river, got the two troopers to go and dive
where the mare had disappeared, and they managed to get its saddle and
pack on shore. Fisherman, while the things were being dried, marked the
tree on the point at the junction of the watercourse with the river. The
former I have named Harris Creek. At 11.56 started again at point where
the tree is marked, say half a mile from camp; at 12.2 made half a mile
south-south-east from river up the creek, where we crossed after a delay
of eight minutes; at 12.33 made three-quarters of a mile north to where
we crossed the river; at 1.2 made one mile north down the river; at 1.27
made three-quarters of a mile north-east by north to where we formed our
Number 30 Camp, where the river is apparently often badly watered. At
this part of the river even now it is without a running stream although
recently flooded, and there is an absence of the pandanus, cabbage, and
tall drooping tea-trees which crowded the bed of the river higher up and
are fine signs of the permanence of the water.

Monday January 6. Camp 30.

Started from camp which is situated on left bank of O'Shanassy River at
6.52. At 7.8 made half a mile north-north-east down the left bank of the
river; at 7.40 made one mile and a quarter north-east to where we crossed
a creek near its junction, and also crossed to the right bank of the
river; at 7.57 made half a mile north-east to where we recrossed to left
bank of the river; at 8.15 made half a mile east-north-east to where we
crossed a little creek near its junction. The river is still confined by
barren and stony ranges and has flood-marks from thirty to forty feet
high. Kangaroos are numerous on this part of the country. At 8.43 made
three-quarters of a mile east to where we crossed, near its junction, a
small creek from the north; at 9.12 made one mile and a quarter east by
north to where there are flooded box and drooping tea-trees in the bed of
the river; at 9.25 made half a mile east to where there are cabbage-trees
in the river; at 9.40 made half a mile east to where there are Leichhardt
and cabbage-palm-trees; at 10.5 made three-quarters of a mile north-east
down the river (we have been following it when practicable on the left
side) at 10.45 made one mile and a quarter east down the river where it
is very confined and well watered; at 11.20 made half a mile
east-north-east to opposite junction of river from south, where I,
accompanied by Fisherman, left the party and crossed the river on a log
to see it. We found it rather smaller than the O'Shanassy and I have
named it the Thornton River. We marked a tree broad arrow before L on the
point between the two rivers and started after the party at 12; at 12.25
made one mile north-north-east along the track down the river; at 12.43
made three-quarters of a mile east-north-east along track down the river;
at 1.7 made one mile north to where we overtook Campbell and party,
having dinner on the bed of the river. Started again after marking a tree
broad arrow before L E, at 3.33; at 3.45 made half a mile north to where
the confined bed of the river is at places boggy and on the edge of the
waterhole the tea-trees are very tall; at 4.20 made three-quarters of a
mile north-north-west and camped.

Tuesday January 7. Camp 31 is situated on the left bank of the O'Shanassy
River.

We started from there at 9.10; at 9.45 made a mile and a quarter north by
east down the left bank of the O'Shanassy River; at 9.55 made a mile and
a quarter north-north-west to opposite junction of a watercourse which I
have named the Seymour River; at 10.12 made three-quarters of a mile
north-west to where we crossed a small creek with reeds in its bed at a
point near its junction with the river; at 10.37 made one mile north-west
by north along the left bank of the river, where we had a good road. The
river is still confined by ranges which sometimes terminate with cliffs;
at 10.48 made half a mile north-east to opposite junction of the creek;
at 10.54 made a quarter of a mile north-east to where we crossed a small
creek near its junction with the river; at 11.27 made one mile and a
quarter north by east along the left bank of the river; at 11.42 made
half a mile north; at 12 made three-quarters of a mile north-north-east
to where we watered the horses and waited for Mr. Campbell. Started again
at 12.30. At 12.53 made half a mile north-north-east. Made quarter mile
north to where we waited to mount Mr. Campbell who was tired of walking.
Started again at 1.3 p.m.; at 1.35 made a mile and a quarter north to
opposite junction of creek from the east; at 2 made one mile
west-north-west to where we formed our 32nd camp, on the left bank of the
river and right bank of a gully just above the junction of a small creek
with the river. If this had been a good season a fine place for the
horses would have been up this gully, as the soil is good with right kind
of grasses and surrounded by basaltic cliffs.

Wednesday January 8. Camp 32. Situated (as before) on the left bank of
the O'Shanassy River.

Left here at 7.7; at 7.18 went half a mile north-north-west to a cleft
hill on the left bank of the river; at 7.35 went three-quarters of a mile
north; at 7.52 went half a mile north-east; at 8 went quarter of a mile
east-north-east to where we got any quantity of figs from trees like the
Moreton Bay fig but another variety. At 8.20 made half a mile north-east.
This scrub is composed of Leichhardt, tea, fig, and cabbage-palm-trees,
where we were delayed till 8.42 from having to pull one of the horses
that had got into a boggy place out. Pandanus along the edge of the
reaches of water. At 9.10 made half a mile north-north-east through the
scrub; at 9.50 made one mile north by east through the scrub; at 10.5
made half a mile north-north-west which took us out of the scrub and to a
fine reach of water; at 10.20 made half a mile north-north-east to where
we crossed a small reedy creek near its junction with the river; at 10.35
made three-quarters of a mile north-north-east along the left side of the
reach of water mentioned. I, accompanied by Fisherman, here made a
deviation from the river. While Campbell and party proceeded down the
river we went up a gully of the richest soil, but all the vegetation was
withered from the dryness of the season. It, like the other gullies we
saw afterwards, was surrounded by basaltic hills, which were again
surrounded by basaltic columns composed of rocks of a more grotesque form
than the columns which are common in a granite formation. The rocks were
so rough that it was unpleasant to lean against them; and were very
severe on the feet of the horses. These columns, with the bottle-trees in
the foreground and the open flats and basaltic hills in the distance, had
a picturesque appearance. When we had got three-quarters of a mile about
north-west we started again to overtake our party. At 12.15 made one mile
and a quarter north down a gully; at 12.23 made quarter of a mile
north-east to where Fisherman and I thought we were on a flat of the
Gregory River near its junction with the O'Shanassy; at 12.52 made one
mile and a half east-north-east across the plains to the right of a range
towards Smith's Range, on the right side of the O'Shanassy River and its
junction with the Gregory River; at 1.9 made three-quarters of a mile
north to the left bank of the O'Shanassy River, where we got the tracks
of Campbell and party; at 1.45 made one mile and a half north-west to
broad arrow before L marked tree, on the point formed by the junction of
the Gregory with the O'Shanassy River, near which we found our party had
formed their 33rd camp on the right bank of the Gregory River.

Thursday January 9. Camp Number 33. Situated between the junction of the
Gregory and the O'Shanassy River.

We left here at 8 a.m.; at 8.15 made half a mile south-east to where we
crossed O'Shanassy River to follow down the Gregory River; at 8.37 made
three-quarters of a mile north. Then from the right bank of the river we
went round a hill which terminated abruptly at it; at 8.45 made quarter
of a mile east-north-east over stony ridges covered with triodia; at 8.53
made a quarter of a mile north-north-west over similar country; at 9.9
made half a mile north-west to the river; at 9.37 made one mile and a
quarter north-east by east to where we crossed a small creek near its
junction with the river; at 9.55 made three-quarters of a mile north-east
by east to where the river is confined on both sides by ridges; those on
the right side are isolated; at 10.45 made two miles and a quarter east
half north and delayed till 10.55; at 11.15 made three-quarters of a mile
east to a hill which rises abruptly from right side of river; at 11.26
made quarter of a mile south-east back from the river; at 11.45 made
three-quarters of a mile east-north-east to where we crossed a small
creek near its junction to the right side of the river; at 12.10 made one
mile north-east to a patch of good soil with good grass, but old and
withered. At 1.5 made two miles and three-quarters over flats and ridges,
the former of good soil but the grass burnt up from the dryness of the
season, the latter stony and badly grassed, to a gap with an isolated
hill on the north-west and two on the north-east side; at 1.22 made
three-quarters of a mile north to where we delayed at the river to water
the horses till 1.48; at 2.37 made two miles and a quarter east over fine
rich country, the grass of which was just beginning to show life in
consequence of recent rains; at 3 made one mile north-north-east to the
right bank of the river where we intended to camp, but were obliged to go
further as the horses could not water from the steepness of the banks. At
3.20 made one mile north-east and encamped where there is a rapid stream
of water about two feet deep below the reach I have mentioned.

Friday January 10. Camp Number 34, situated on the right bank near where
there is a good crossing place.

Mr. Allison at one o'clock this morning made an observation of Pollux
from an artificial horizon, which made its altitude 85 degrees 36
minutes. At 8.45 made one mile east-north-east over poor stony ridges and
light loamy flats, in which the tombung fruit-trees were plentiful, also
the following trees: bauhinia, broad-leaved box, broad-leaved Moreton Bay
ash, sweet-smelling jessamine, and bloodwood. The flats have got good
grasses and marjoram. The river has here isolated hills on its banks,
with ranges a mile or so back; at 8.55 made half a mile north-east by
east to river about 150 yards wide with high flood-marks, which I have
named the Ligar after the Surveyor-General of Victoria; at 9.6 made half
a mile east-north-east down the Ligar River to where we crossed it above
an isolated hill, where it was dry; at 9.30 made one mile north-east by
east to bluff rocky hill where the flood-marks are about 30 feet high,
west-north-west side; at 9.52 made one mile north-east along a range with
a bluff termination; at 10.35 made two miles and a quarter
east-north-east in sight of the high trees of the river; at 11 made one
mile east-north-east to the mount, on the west side of which, at the
Gregory River, we watered our horses and started again at 11.15; at 12.8
made two miles and a half north-east by east half east to west side of a
range; at 12.35 made one mile and a half north-east to Heales Creek and
gap in Primer Range; at 12.55 made three-quarters of a mile north-east
down the creek to the last hill coming down and the first going up the
river (I have named it Mount Heales after the premier of Victoria). It
was about one mile to the eastward of our course; at 1.5 made half a mile
north-north-east from left bank of Heales Creek; at 1.26 made
three-quarters of a mile north to Gregory River; at 1.30 made a quarter
of a mile north down the river and encamped.

Saturday January 11. Camp Number 35, situated north-west half north from
Mount Heales, on Premier Range, on the right bank of the Gregory.

We left here at 7.3 a.m. At 7.20 made three-quarters of a mile north,
which course keeps the tall trees of the river in sight; at 7.30 made
half a mile north; at 7.42 made half a mile north-east, which course
still keeps the tall trees of the river in sight; at 7.48 made a quarter
of a mile north-east by north to the edge of a rich plain of the Gregory
River; at 8.4 made half a mile north along the west side of plain; at
8.30 made one mile and a quarter north by east; at 8.40 made a quarter of
a mile north-north-east; at 9 made three-quarters of a mile north by
east, still keeping in sight of the tall trees on the river; at 9.24 made
one mile north by east; at 9.58 made one mile and a half north; at 10.15
made one mile north-east; at 10.27 made half a mile north-east by north;
over rich country, now beautifully grassed, slightly timbered along the
river and watercourses with bauhinia, broad-leaved stunted box,
broad-leaved Moreton Bay ash, bloodwood, acacia (which gives a gum like
gum arabic, and is plentiful near the depot) pomegranate, and other
trees; at 11 made one mile and a half north-east to the river, where we
stopped for Mr. Allison to get an observation of the sun. A short
distance to the eastward observed apparent altitude of sun, which made
our latitude 18 degrees 34 minutes 30 seconds. Started again at 2 p.m. At
2.15 made half a mile north by east; at 3 made two miles north-east by
north; at 3.30 made one mile and a half north by east; at 3.55 made one
mile north-east by north half north; at 4.13 made one mile north; at 4.30
made half a mile north-north-east; at 5.2 made one mile north by east; at
6.2 made two miles and a half north-north-east. By these courses we cut
off the bends of the river excepting towards the last when we got too far
away from it and required to make for it again. The country we went over
was from the greenness and length of the grass the finest-looking country
we have seen on the expedition; but I think the Barkly tableland is
superior to it from its having more salty herbage. The timber is of a
similar description to that I have recently mentioned except that the box
was stunted (narrow-leaved instead of broad). Having reached water in an
eastern channel of the river we formed our thirty-sixth camp on the right
bank of it.

Monday January 13. Camp Number 36, situated on the right bank of the
eastern channel of Beames Brook.

From here I sent Fisherman to the south-east in search of water in that
direction; and after Mr. Allison had made an observation of the sun,
placing us in latitude 18 degrees 31 minutes 37 seconds, got by observed
altitude 86.45. I left my party in camp and accompanied by Jemmy went in
the following directions: At 2.6 went one mile and a half north to where
I shot an emu, and started again at 3.6; at 4.6 went three miles north
over rich plains covered with most fattening grasses; at 4.42 went two
miles north-west half north to east channel of watercourse; at 5.10 went
three-quarters of a mile north half west along a deep reach; at 5.20 went
half a mile north-north-west over the finest plain country; at 5.40 went
half a mile north; at 6 went half a mile north-west; at 6.30 went about
one mile and a quarter north; at 7.30 went about two miles and
three-quarters north to where we encamped close to the right bank of
watercourse.

Tuesday January 14.

Continuation of excursion made by Jemmy and I down the watercourse from
36 Camp; at 6.50 made one mile and three-quarters about north to where we
crossed an eastern channel of the main watercourse; at 7.5 made
three-quarters of a mile about north-west; at 7.35 made one mile and a
quarter west to a running stream in a watercourse with banks so low that
a rise of a few feet would flood the adjoining plains; at 8.20 made two
miles about north-north-east over rich thickly-grassed country
intersected by several watercourses and swamps, where I felt convinced
was a watercourse to the eastward of the Gregory River (I afterwards
ascertained this to be so) which I then supposed to be Beames Brook, as I
thought we were on Gregory River when I started and intended following it
down on its right bank only to the crossing-place on our outward journey.
We took no rations whatever with us and delayed to 8.35; at 8.55 made one
mile south-east; at 9.23 made one mile and a quarter south-east by south
over a rich, well-grassed, and slightly-timbered plain to the eastern
channel of the watercourse, where we made our breakfast off figs and the
young wood of the cabbage-tree: we found it rather a light one, as we had
no supper on the previous night. Started again at 10.25; at 10.55 made
one mile and a half south-south-east; at 11.20 made one mile
south-south-east to where we crossed an eastern channel of the
watercourse; at 11.35 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east; at
11.45 made half mile south by east; at 12.5 made one mile south by east;
at 12.15 made half a mile south by west; at 12.35 made one mile south
half west to watercourse where it has deep reaches of water and banks
about twenty-six feet high. I guessed the last entry of miles as my watch
had run down. We had a bath and started at 1.22. At 2.10 made two miles
and a quarter about south half east along the watercourse to an eastern
channel where the horses got water and we delayed until 2.22; at 2.44
made one mile south-east by south half south over plains; at 3.15 made
one mile and a half south over plains; at 3.32 made three-quarters of a
mile south-south-east over plains; at 4.5 made one mile and a half south
to emu tree, where we stayed to separate the best portions of the emu I
had shot and take them to camp; at 5.10 made one mile and a half north to
Number 36 Camp.

Wednesday January 15. Camp 36, situated on the right bank of Beames
Brook.

Fisherman informed me that he had gone on Monday a long half-day's
journey without finding any watercourse except one trending to the
north-west and which, from his description, I thought might join the one
I had seen about six miles distant. The country he saw in the course of
his ride was well-grassed, lightly timbered plains, the latter stretching
to the north-east. By climbing a tree he observed a range to the
south-east. We left our camp here at 7.25; at 8.48 made three miles and a
half north by west, which took us down rich plains with the river trees
in sight along our course; at 9.45 made two miles and three-quarters
north; at 11.15 made four miles and a half north, which course took us
out of sight of the trees on the river, over a similar country to that I
have described where we stopped for Mr. Allison to take an observation of
the sun, and for Mr. Campbell and Fisherman, who were behind, to come up.
Observations: altitude 86.52, latitude 18 degrees 18 minutes; we started
again at 12.34 p.m.; at 1.17 made two miles north-west to where we
crossed to the left side of eastern channel; at 1.35 made one mile
north-west to watercourse with fine stream of water; at 1.50 made
three-quarters of a mile north, where we watered the horses, and started
again at 4.25; at 4.33 made a quarter of a mile about north where Jemmy
and I encamped last Monday night; at 4.5 made one mile north-north-east
to where we crossed to left side of eastern watercourse; at 5.24 made one
mile and a half north-north-east over a thickly-grassed slightly-wooded
plain with flood-marks on it; at 6.2 made one mile and three-quarters
north over a similar country, slightly timbered with flooded box; at 6.13
made half a mile north-north-west; at 6.35 made three-quarters of a mile
north-west by north over similar country; then crossed during a
thunderstorm to left side of eastern channel of watercourse; at 7.15 made
one mile and a half west by north to the main channel of Beames Brook
which has a fine stream of water only a few feet below the level plains
on each side of it. The water was muddy from the recent shower and in
consequence anything but pleasant. Mosquitoes were very numerous and
allowed some of us but little sleep.

Thursday January 16. Camp Number 37. Situated on the right bank of Beames
Brook.

We left here at 7.16; at 8.30 made three-quarters of a mile north-east by
north to where we crossed to right side of an eastern channel of a
watercourse; at 10.5 made four miles and a half north-north-east over
level rich country, slightly timbered with stunted box and a small tree
like the Queensland sandalwood, called by Mr. Walker the gutta-percha
tree, and reached extensive plains; at 11.15 made three miles and a
quarter north-north-east over fine rich plains with the tall trees of the
banks of a watercourse in sight to the eastward: at 11.32 made
three-quarters of a mile north-north-west where we stopped on the plain,
and Mr. Allison made the following observation of the sun: altitude
86.45, latitude 18 degrees 0 minutes 50 seconds; started again at 12.58;
at 1.10 made one mile and a half north over fine slightly timbered downs,
but from the want of rain the grass on them was rather brown, to where we
crossed to the right bank of a watercourse (Barkly River) with high
flood-marks, but at present without water; at 1.20 made half a mile north
where we recrossed it; at 2.25 made three miles north to where we crossed
again to left side without finding water; we passed at this place a
number of blacks perched in the trees; at 3 made a quarter of a mile
north to where we stopped as we could not proceed in consequence of a
heavy thunderstorm and the bogginess of the ground; at 4.35 made quarter
of a mile south, then three-quarters of a mile northerly to where we
formed our thirty-eighth camp on the left of the main watercourse (Barkly
River).

Friday January 17. Camp Number 38. Situated on the left bank of Barkly
River.

The morning was wet so I thought that after the rain of yesterday we
could not proceed, but it cleared up between 8 and 9, and at 10.20 we
were packed up and started; at 10.45 made one mile north by east to the
tree marked Lieutenant Woods with line and broad arrow; at 12 made three
miles west to Beames Brook over richly grassed plains slightly wooded
with stunted box; at 1.30 made quarter mile south by east where we
crossed Beames Brook. We found the crossing-place a bad one; when a few
of the horses crossed it became so bad that we had to unpack and unsaddle
several before we could get them onto the firm ground on the left side of
the brook. This is the first stream of water we have crossed since we
left the O'Shanassy River near its junction with the Gregory. Beames
Brook therefore must connect the Gregory with the Albert River, which
accounts for the great size of the latter. At 1.55 made one mile north by
west; at 2.20 made three-quarters of a mile north-west to Nicholson
River, which has got a broad sandy bed so full of tea-tree that we could
not see its breadth at this place; at 2.35 made half a mile south-east by
east; at 2.55 made three-quarters of a mile east back to Beames Brook and
to our outward track; at 3.4 made half a mile north-east to tree broad
arrow before L, where we had on outward journey dined off the young wood
of a cabbage-tree. We also observed the tracks of an expedition party
trending towards the depot; at 4.10 made three miles north-east down the
brook and then down the plain; at 4.45 made one mile and a half east to
outward track; at 4.50 made half a mile south-west to our outward Number
2 Camp (Post Office Lagoon) where we expected to have got letters but in
this we were disappointed.

Sunday January 19.

Yesterday we rested ourselves and our horses; at 6.20 a.m. my party left
the Number 2 Camp of outward, and 39 of inward journey, situated at what
I call the Post Office Lagoon, near a point on the left side of the
Albert River, just above the Barkly and Beames Brook. I stayed behind,
attended by Jemmy, until 7.30, and marked the camp tree as I had done at
the other camp with my brand, the number of the camp, and the date; at
7.30 we made about half a mile in a north-north-east direction over rich
undulating well-grassed country, slightly timbered with flooded box; at
7.45 made three-quarters of a mile north-east; at 8 made three-quarters
of a mile north-east by north over similar country; at 8.18 made one mile
north-north-east across similar country  with portions of it without
timber; at 8.37 made one mile north-east by north down well-grassed
plains with the timbered country extending from the Albert River about a
mile to the eastward of our track; at 8.46 made half a mile north-east;
at 10.10 made four miles and a quarter north-east down well-grassed
plains to where we stopped to rest the horses for ten minutes, as the
ground was very soft from the recent rain; at 10.35 made three-quarters
of a mile north-east by east to triangle made on the left bank of the
Albert River by Lieutenant Woods; at 10.58 made one mile north-east by
east to where we crossed Moore's Creek; at 11.10 made half a mile
north-east by east; at 11.20 made half a mile east-south-east to Albert
River depot.

(Signed) W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victoria and Queensland Land Expedition. 8th February
1862.

I hereby certify that this is a true and correct copy of Mr.
Landsborough's journal.

H.W.N. CAMPBELL,

Second in Command.

...

H.M.C.S. Victoria, 7th February 1862.

Sir,

You will proceed to the depot on the Albert River and so soon as possible
after arrival render assistance to Mr. Landsborough to get the horses and
stores safely over to the eastern shore: then collect whatever surplus of
provisions may be remaining, i.e. flour, biscuit, or peas, and have them
securely fastened down in one of the iron water tanks sunk in the ground
for that purpose. It will be as well to place therein some of the
ammunition remaining, and to take a list of whatever is secured in the
tank for the information of the Royal Society.

When the above is completed and all stores belonging to this ship
collected you will remove the guard and return on board, bringing with
you any of Mr. Landsborough's party that he may not require to proceed
with him overland.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) W.H. NORMAN, Commander.

Lieutenant C.C. Gascoyne.

...

H.M.C.S. Victoria, off Albert River, 9th February 1862.

Sir,

In accordance with your instructions of 7th February 1862 I proceeded up
the Albert River with Mr. Landsborough and have the honour to forward the
following report of my proceedings, namely:

I left the ship 7th February at 1.10 p.m., the cutter and whale-boat
being placed in my charge to assist in crossing the horses and stores
belonging to the Exploring Expedition, and bring down to the ship our
party from the Albert River depot.

We had a north-easterly breeze on leaving the ship which carried us up as
far as the saltwater arm, arriving there at 6.10 p.m., when the boats'
crews went to supper; left there at 7 p.m., perfectly calm; arrived at
the Firefly at 1.10 a.m.

Saturday 8th February.

At 5 a.m. (the weather looking very threatening) Mr. Landsborough sent
out for the horses, which were brought in at 7.30 a.m.; it was then
raining heavily, attended by thunder and lightning. At 8 o'clock I
started with two of the black boys to drive the horses to the place for
crossing, having sent the two boats round with lines as guess warps for
hauling the boats to and fro. We succeeded in getting all of them,
twenty-one in number, on the eastern shore by about 10 a.m., after which
we got the stores across and pitched Mr. Landsborough's tents for him to
keep them dry, as it had to all appearances set in for a wet day. I then
got the provisions and stores (20 pounds biscuits, 250 pounds flour, nine
half-pound canisters F.G. powder, two boxes percussion caps) placed in
one of the tanks. I then had the tops of the tanks secured and covered
with pitch and afterwards earth. Buried a bottle containing directions
relative to the foregoing, close to a tree which I had marked thus: DIG 2
feet north, which tree being on the verge of a waterhole, close to the
camp, must attract attention. At 8.45 p.m. we all left the Firefly. I put
Mr. Landsborough and his party, consisting of Mr. F. Bourne, William
Leeson (groom) and three black boys, onto the opposite shore, bringing
Mr. H.N. Campbell and a black boy down to the ship, arriving on board at
1.15 p.m. on the 9th February.

I have the honour to be Sir,

Your most obedient servant,

(Signed) Charles Cecil Gascoyne, Second Lieutenant.

...

Bunnawaunah, Darling River, June 2 1862.

Sir,

I have the honour to inform you that the exploring party under my command
arrived here yesterday in safety and in good health. From the Gulf of
Carpentaria we came, in search of Burke's party, without difficulty, to
Gregory's route from Queensland to South Australia, to a point within 280
miles of the point marked first depot on Burke's route on the map which
shows the routes of different explorers.

Our route from the Gulf of Carpentaria, Mr. Gregory's route to South
Australia, and the routes of other explorers demonstrate the fact that
sheep, cattle, and horses can be taken at a small cost and in the finest
condition from South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales, and the inland
districts of Queensland to stock the country near the Gulf of
Carpentaria, or for exportation to India or elsewhere.

The road we came was so easy, from the richness of the pasturage and the
abundance of water, that a foal, named Flinders from his having been
foaled on the Flinders River, followed his mother most bravely from the
time he was a few hours old until he reached here. When we were on
Gregory's route to South Australia, and for some time previously, we took
many opportunities of asking the blacks respecting the explorers they had
seen. This we were enabled to do as Jemmy the native police trooper could
speak their language. We learned from them that they had seen during the
last ten moons explorers to the eastward, but that they had seen none
with larger animals than horses.

I am sorry to have to inform you that our familiarity at last led to our
having a hostile collision with them on the Barcoo River, near where the
blacks treacherously tried to take Mr. Gregory's party by surprise during
the night. They tried to take us at night by surprise. If they had
succeeded they would no doubt have overpowered us; but it was during
Jemmy's watch and, as he always kept his watch well, he awoke us when
they were within a few yards of our fire, and we fortunately succeeded in
driving them away. Next morning (very early) two of them came near our
camp. At my request Jemmy warned them to leave us, for we had now a most
hostile feeling towards them. Instead of their showing the least symptom
of leaving us they got their companions (who were in ambush, heavily
armed with clubs and throwing-sticks) to join them. Under these
circumstances we fired on them. In doing so, and in following them up to
where the horses were feeding, one was shot and another slightly wounded
in the leg.

I had very little assistance from Walker's previous discoveries as he had
left instructions that while his chart and journal were in Captain
Norman's charge no one should be allowed to take notes from them. I tried
to follow Mr. Walker's tracks to the Flinders River where he reported he
had left the tracks of Burke's party. After tracing Mr. Walker's tracks
for four days with considerable difficulty we reached plains near the
Leichhardt River where so much rain had fallen on the rich soft soil that
it was impossible to trace them further.

From the Leichhardt River we travelled over well-watered country to the
Flinders River; then travelled up that river, through fine rich pastoral
country, to about latitude 20 degrees 40 minutes; from there we reached
Bowen Downs in a few miles. The creeks and the river that water that
country I knew previously to a certain point down the river, but beyond
this point I did not know where the river flowed. On this expedition I
followed it down to near its junction with the Barcoo River (formerly
known as the Victoria and as the Cooper) and discovered that it was the
Thomson River. After leaving the well-watered country of Bowen Downs,
with the assistance of one of the blacks of that locality, we came
through a fine rich country to the Barcoo River; then without following
the river further, or searching ahead for water, we went across to the
Warrego River without the horses being at any time longer than a day and
part of a night without water. The country is therefore, I have no doubt,
on the whole well watered.

From the Warrego River we tried to go to the south-eastward, but, from
not knowing the country, we had to return, owing to the want of water. On
this occasion, although the weather was cold, the horses suffered very
much. We travelled almost incessantly, day and night. In going from and
returning to water the horses were without it for seventy-two hours. In
returning we found water in a creek in which we had found no water at the
place we crossed it in our outward route. If I had had plenty of rations
I probably would have searched with one of the aborigines for water
before taking the whole of the horses on a journey of that kind.
Afterwards we followed the river down to near Kennedy's Number 19 Camp to
the station of Messrs. Williams, where we met with a most hospitable
reception and learned for the first time the melancholy fate of Messrs.
Burke and Wills. Sold some expedition supplies which we thought we would
not require any more, and bought rations to take us here.

Following the Flinders River up from the Gulf of Carpentaria took us for
a long distance in a more southerly than easterly direction, then in a
more easterly than southerly direction. About twenty miles below where we
left the Flinders River we saw horse tracks, which were probably made by
Mr. Walker's party when on his route from the Nogoa River to the depot at
the Gulf of Carpentaria. Where we saw the tracks of Walker's party the
channel was about 120 yards wide, with a sandy bed and a shallow stream
flowing along the surface; lower down and higher up the river we saw the
fresh tracks of a steer or cow, and on Bowen Downs saw similar tracks. We
had so little meat that we would have tried hard to have found the beast
to kill it for provisions if I had not thought, from seeing the tracks of
a dray in the same locality, that we were near a station.

The point where we reached the Barcoo River, in latitude 24 degrees 37
minutes, is nearly south from where we left the Flinders River.

Several times in the course of our journey from the Gulf of Carpentaria
Gleeson, Jemmy, and Fisherman were unwell. This was owing, I have no
doubt, in a great measure if not altogether, to the rations I issued
being insufficient. Our usual ration was a pint of flour, in bad
condition, and barely half a pound of spoiled meat per day, without tea
or sugar. The annexed list of rations will show that the quantity
obtained on starting would not admit of my issuing a larger supply. The
remainder of us, namely, Mr. Bourne, Jackey, and myself, did not lose our
health on this meagre fare.

After reaching the Warrego River Jemmy unfortunately lay so near the fire
on a frosty night that his shirt caught fire and burned him severely; so
much so that he exhibited great pluck in continuing his journey here.

Last night I learned from the newspapers that Mr. Howitt had received
instructions to wait for us at the depot at Cooper's Creek. If I had
known that there was to be a depot there I would have gladly gone to it
from the Thomson River. Now I intend proceeding down the river to
Menindie, where I purpose if necessary to take the most advisable mode to
let Mr. Howitt know of our return from the Gulf of Carpentaria.

I might have sent a letter off yesterday to the neighbouring station if I
had only known that the postman had been delayed from starting until this
morning. There is a camel on this run which I will endeavour to get and
take to Menindie.

Mr. Bourne, who is an experienced bushman, has read this letter and
thinks I have not given too favourable an account of the country along
our route from the Gulf of Carpentaria.

When I reach town I will make a return of the money I received of Messrs.
Williams for the expedition stores, a copy of my journal, and a sketch
showing our route.

I have the honour to be Sir,

Your obedient servant,

W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victorian and Queensland Exploring Expedition from
Brisbane.

To the Honourable Secretary Exploration Committee of Royal Society
Victoria.

List of provisions received at the depot, Gulf of Carpentaria, on the 8th
February 1862:

40 pounds of peas.
96 pounds of salt beef.
40 pounds of rice.
268 pounds of damaged beef, jerked.
27 pounds of damaged bacon.
650 pounds of damaged flour.
10 pounds of broken biscuits.
18 pounds of tobacco.
Left from previous expedition to south-west.
90 pounds of flour.
40 pounds of sugar.

These provisions were all our party, consisting of six, had up to the
21st May, the date of our arrival at the station of Messrs. Williams on
the Warrego.*

...

(*Footnote. I may state here that, on the expedition to the south-west
when our party consisted of five, we started with ninety days' rations of
flour, beef, tea, and sugar, and five gallons of rum. These and the
rations, a list of which is given above, were all that were furnished for
the land expedition; and it was a source of much discouragement that my
requisition for tea, sugar, and rum for the journey across the continent
was not complied with, more especially as the allowance supplied at
Brisbane was very liberal, as the annexed list will show:

List of stores sent by the Queensland Government for Landsborough's
Expedition. (Cost in pounds/shillings/pence.)

August 15 1861.

12 bags (14 shillings) flour, 200 pounds each at 18/10 per ton (22/4):
22/18.
1 chest and half chest congou, at 7/15, in bond: 11/12.
9 bags Mauritius sugar, gr. tons: 14/0/16.
Tare: 0/1/26.
Nett: 13/2/18 at 50 shillings, in bond: 34/3/0.

1 package tobacco, nett 250 pounds, at 0/2/6, in bond: 31/5/0.
3 bags rice, 1 hundredweight each, at 24 pounds: 3/12/0.
1 cask oatmeal (224 pounds): 2/14/0.
2 hhds. rum, 112 gallons, at 5 shillings, in bond, shipped on board of
the Victoria: 28/0/0.
7 drums (0/17/6) colza oil, 35 gallons, at 8 shillings (14/0): 14/17/6.
43 bales lucerne hay, nett 6 tons 10 hundredweight 2 qrs. 18 pounds at
10/0: 65/6/7.
45 bales oaten hay, nett 8 tons 11 hundredweight 2 qrs. 1 pound, at 12/0:
102/18/1.
Freight paid captain of the Gem for same: 14/0/0.
15 bags (0/17/6) bran, gross 19/1/15.
Tare: 0/1/17.
Nett: 18/3/26 at 0/1/10 per bushel of 20 pounds: 9/14/11.
60 tons coals, in bulk, at 1/5 per ton: 75/0/0.
106 bags ditto, containing 10 12-20 tons, at 1/5 per ton: 13/5/0.
106 bags, at 0/1/2: 6/3/8.
Total: 436/7/9.

After the wreck of a Firefly at Hardy's Island all her stores and those
intended for the exploring parties were taken possession of by Captain
Norman, and were only supplied by him on requisition.

The following are the names of the members of Mr. Landsborough's party.

W. Landsborough, commander.
H.N. Campbell.
George Bourne.
W. Allison.
W. Gleeson.
Aboriginals: Charlie, Jemmy, Fisherman and Jackey.

Of these H.N. Campbell as assistant-commander, W. Allison, Jemmy, and
Fisherman accompanied Mr. Landsborough on his first or south-west
expedition. On his second or journey across the continent his party
consisted of: George Bourne as second in command; Gleeson as cook;
Fisherman, Jemmy, and Jackey. Messrs. Campbell, Allison, and Charlie
returned by the Victoria, Mr. Landsborough considering his equipment
inadequate to the supply of so large a party.

The camel found by Mr. Landsborough at the Darling was taken towards
Melbourne but was lost through the carelessness of Jackey. Jackey, on two
occasions on the Darling River, left for several days without leave,
which led Mr. Landsborough to tell him that he would not take him any
farther. This did not appear to vex him much for, without asking to be
taken on or promising to behave better in future, he immediately went and
hired himself to a settler in the neighbourhood. The rest of the party
reached Melbourne in safety. Jemmy and Fisherman, who had never been in a
city before, evinced no surprise at anything they saw. After a month's
residence in Melbourne they were forwarded by steamer to Brisbane.
Fisherman, before leaving Melbourne, lost his intelligence and was at
times quite insane; but it is to be hoped that as his bodily health was
good the sight of his native place will restore him to his right mind.)

...

The following letter, received by Captain Cadell from Mr. Neilson of
Neilson and Williams, two young men who have spent years in exploring the
Australian wilderness and who are now settled on the Warrego, gives some
additional information as to the discoveries of Landsborough's party:

Kennedy's 19th Camp, River Warrego, May 22 1862.

I have nothing to communicate but the arrival here yesterday of Mr.
Landsborough and party from the Gulf of Carpentaria, whence he left on
the 10th of February last in search of the traces of Burke's party. The
journey which he has now accomplished has opened up a practicable route
to the Gulf. He followed the Flinders from the Gulf on an average course
of south-south-east to 20 degrees south to its head, when, in thirty
miles, he picked up the head of the Thomson and followed it down to
Cooper's Creek, making his way into the settled districts by following up
that creek to its head, and then following the Warrego River to this
point, from whence he goes into the Barwon. He speaks of the country to
the head of the Thomson, and from thence along the whole course of the
Flinders to the Gulf, as magnificent, consisting of rich basaltic plains,
very thickly grassed, one of the most conspicuous grasses being greatly
in appearance to sorghum. Horses are so fond of it that the party could
scarcely drive them along with whips. The party has met no casualty, and
look very well, notwithstanding experiencing a shortness of rations on
the journey. The horses are looking well. Landsborough was quite
surprised at hearing that Burke's remains had been found. They found no
track nor tidings of his party. I have given Mr. Landsborough an account
of our trip in July and August last towards Cooper's Creek. He considers
it a connecting link in the overland route from the Darling to the Gulf,
and one that will be used in taking stock to that point. I consider that
the route as now found will be the one adopted by the eastern colonies,
South Australia availing itself of Stuart's route.

...

The following letter has been addressed to the Colonial Secretary of
Queensland by Mr. Landsborough:

Mount Murchison, Darling River, July 5 1862.

Sir,

Having learned from the Queensland news, in the Sydney Weekly Mail of the
24th May, that the Honourable the Colonial Treasurer said that he had no
doubt the parties in search of Burke's tracks were making tracks for
themselves, I have now the honour to inform you that, so far as I am
concerned, I have no immediate intention to apply for country discovered
by me while searching for Burke's tracks; that my previous correspondence
with you gave you a true description of the country I had seen in my
expedition to the south-west from the Albert River depot; that I will
send you, when I reach Melbourne or sooner, a copy of my journal, which I
hope will give a satisfactory description of the country I have seen in
my last expedition; and further that it is satisfactory to me in the
meantime to state that the country I saw near the Gulf of Carpentaria I
consider to be exceedingly well adapted for sheep runs, and that I am of
opinion that the most valuable country is the Plains of Promise, and
second to them the plains on the Gregory River.

Of the country I have seen on the last expedition which had not been
previously explored I consider the most valuable, on which I am sure
sheep will thrive, are the plains on the west bank of the Leichhardt
River, and those plains on the Flinders River. Of the Leichhardt River
country I can but speak of a small portion, as I only followed it up for
about eight miles from where the tide came to a fine basaltic ford, where
the water was fresh. Of the Flinders River country the best I saw on the
lower part of the river is situated between 18 degrees 26 minutes
latitude and 19 degrees 20 minutes latitude; and of the upper part of the
river the best is the last 100 miles I saw.

I have the honour to be, sir,

Your obedient servant,

W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victorian and Queensland Expedition.

The Honourable the Colonial Secretary, Queensland.

...

ROYAL SOCIETY OF VICTORIA.

An ordinary meeting of this society was held on the 18th August and was
numerously attended. His Excellency Sir Henry Barkly (president) occupied
the chair.

PRESENTATION TO JOHN KING.

The first business was the presentation to John King the explorer of the
gold watch awarded him by the Royal Geographical Society.

The Secretary (at the request of His Excellency the President) read the
following extract from a private letter from Sir Roderick Murchison, the
president of the Royal Geographical Society, dated May 20 1862:

I told you in my last that I thought it probable we should grant one of
our gold medals to the family of Burke; and I am happy to announce to you
that at the last meeting of council the award was made as I anticipated,
on my own proposition, strengthened as it was by your favourable opinion.

We also give to the good and intrepid King a gold watch, with an
inscription.

The Duke of Newcastle has promised to attend and receive these donations
on the 26th.

P.S. (June 23): the watch sent to King cost much more than the gold
medal; and I hope the good soldier will like it.

...

The Secretary next read the following despatch from his Grace the Duke of
Newcastle to Governor Sir Henry Barkly:

Downing Street, May 26 1862.

Sir,

I have to acquaint you that this morning I attended the annual meeting of
the Royal Geographical Society, and that, at the request of the
president, Lord Ashburton, I undertook to forward to you the accompanying
gold watch, which the president and council had determined to present to
John King, in testimony of his meritorious conduct during the late
Victorian Exploring Expedition, in which Messrs. Burke and Wills
unfortunately lost their lives.

I have therefore to request that you will accordingly, on behalf of the
president and council, place this watch in the hands of John King and
that you will at the same time express to him the satisfaction it has
been to me to be the channel of making known to him that his conduct has
been appreciated as it deserves.

I have the honour to be, etc.,

Newcastle.

...

His Excellency (addressing John King) spoke as follows:

I feel, Mr. King, that it would be almost superfluous on my part to add
much to the encomiums passed upon you by such high authorities; and to
one so modest, as I know you are, I dare say it would be even painful if
I were to enter at any length upon a recital of the claims which I
consider you possess upon the gratitude and admiration of your fellow
colonists. (Hear, hear.) Gratifying as it must be to you--after the
liberal honours and rewards which the legislature and people of Victoria
have bestowed upon you--to receive this crowning mark of recognition of
your services from your fellow countrymen at home, I can quite conceive
that it would be more congenial to your own feelings if I had delivered
it to you in my own private room. Still I felt it to be a matter of duty,
on an occasion of this kind, to make the ceremony as public as possible,
not only in justice to yourself but for the sake of the example which
your conduct has afforded to all who may be placed in similarly trying
circumstances. I feel sure that, even if you entertained any idea of
surviving, nothing was further from your thoughts than any considerations
of glory or honour when you knelt by the side of the dying Burke to
receive his latest injunctions, or when you turned back to perform the
last sad offices for your departed comrade, Wills. You did your duty, I
am sure, simply because you felt it was your duty. A Christian, you knew
it was a privilege to minister to suffering humanity; a soldier, you
never dreamt of swerving from the unalterable fidelity which you knew you
owed your leader. (Applause.) In such a trying position as that in which
you were placed, with the bands of discipline relaxed, the instincts of
self-preservation have often led men to act selfishly. Others in your
position might have thought that, being stronger than the rest of the
party--able perhaps to pursue game, catch fish, or to pound nardoo--it
would have been consistent with duty to escape to the nearest settlement,
perhaps with the vague idea of sending back assistance to your comrades.
I feel satisfied that any thought of deserting never crossed your
mind--that you abandoned all desire to serve yourself alone, and that
they were determined to share the fate of your companions. The result has
proved that you acted rightly and properly. Your example may serve to
teach us that the path of duty, generally, under Providence, is the path
of safety. And what is about to take place tonight will also teach us
another lesson:

That duty never did yet want its meed.

...

(Applause.) I may just refer to the fortunate circumstance that our
meeting should be graced by the presence of a gentleman who, partly from
motives of humanity, and partly with a view to share in the glory of the
enterprise, volunteered to lead one of the subsidiary expeditions sent in
search of the missing expedition of which you formed a member. Those
subsidiary expeditions, it is well known, have led to a great increase of
our geographical knowledge of the interior of the continent; and I
believe, among the most brilliant exploits which grace the history of
Australian exploration, there is not one more brilliant to be found than
the passage made by the party under our friend Mr. Landsborough from the
shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria to the Darling River. (Applause.) I
hope Mr. Landsborough will be kind enough tonight to give us some
information as to his route on the occasion. We all know, without waiting
for that explanation, that his journey has conferred a most substantial
benefit on all these colonies. It has, there can be no doubt, very much
accelerated the formation of a great settlement in North Australia, which
may be expected to become, some day, a separate and independent colony.
In fact it has formed a fitting addition to the noble efforts which have
been made by this colony in the cause of Australian exploration. Those
efforts, as we all know, are now about to terminate. Instructions have
been despatched to Mr. Howitt to return as speedily as possible; and when
he brings back the remains of the lamented explorers, Burke and Wills, we
shall approach the closing scene of the great drama--or tragedy, as I
believe I may call it. I trust on that occasion the public funeral
promised to those brave men will be carried out with the enthusiasm which
was manifested a year ago, and that active exertions will be used by all
concerned to raise an appropriate monument to their memory. (Hear, hear.)
I have now great pleasure in handing to King, on the part of the Royal
Geographical Society of London, this watch, which bears within, as he
will find, an inscription setting forth that it was "Presented by the
President and Council of the Royal Geographical Society of London to John
King, for his meritorious conduct in the expedition under the lamented
Burke and Wills." (Great applause.)

John King, who seemed overpowered with emotion, replied in the following
terms:

May it please your Excellency, it affords me much grateful satisfaction
to receive this watch, which the Royal Geographical Society of London has
been pleased to present to me in recognition of my services during the
late Victorian Exploring Expedition, and particularly to the lamented Mr.
Burke in his last moments. In these particulars, your Excellency, I
consider that I simply did my duty--a duty that I would perform over
again if I were similarly placed. (Applause.) Still it is a source of
grateful satisfaction to me to know that our achievement has been
properly appreciated by the British Government and the great scientific
bodies, and also that my humble services have been appreciated by the
Royal Geographical Society, and by His Grace the Duke of Newcastle. I
beg, through your Excellency, most respectfully to thank His Grace and
the Royal Geographical Society for their recognition of my services. Such
recognition will always convince me that no man under this or any
government will do his duty without meeting his reward. (Great applause.)

...

His Excellency then introduced Mr. Landsborough to the meeting, and
intimated that that gentleman would give a narrative of his expedition.
His Excellency also introduced two aboriginals who had accompanied Mr.
Landsborough from Carpentaria.

Mr. Landsborough said he had much pleasure in meeting the Royal Society
and he was much gratified with the reception that had been accorded him.
His expedition had been the second to cross the continent of Australia
from Carpentaria, and he had been fortunate in finding a good road.
Through the liberality of the Royal Society he had a first rate outfit at
Brisbane. Unfortunately the transport Firefly, which conveyed himself and
party from Brisbane, was wrecked on Hardy's Island. However, a few days
afterwards, they were relieved by Captain Norman of the Victoria. Through
the exertions of Captain Norman, his officers, and crew the Firefly was
towed off the reef and the horses were reshipped and taken on to
Carpentaria. It had been supposed hitherto that the Albert River was not
a good place for landing horses; but the Firefly, a vessel of 200 tons,
went twenty miles up that river and the horses were landed without
difficulty, in fact they walked ashore. He was delighted to find so fine
a country. He had had twenty years experience of Australia, and he had
never seen better country for stock than he found on the shores of the
Gulf of Carpentaria. His mission was to search for Burke and his
companions, but he could not shut his eyes to the fact that there was a
fine country before them, and that country lying idle--a country, which
through the exertions of Burke and his companions, had been opened to the
world. (Hear.) The pastoral interest was a great interest still in
Australia; and he held it to be a great pity that the stock of the
country should be boiled down for tallow when Australia is the finest
country in the world for growing wool. He hoped that the discoveries made
through the instrumentality of the Royal Society would tend to prevent
this. He would now point out the route which he took in search of Burke
and his party. In his first expedition he proceeded in the direction of
Central Mount Stuart, with the view of trying to discover whether Burke
had gone on Stuart's route; he succeeded in travelling about 210 miles,
the first 100 of which he followed up a running stream, but after leaving
its source he lost much time from the scarcity of water; for this reason,
and the precious loss of time caused by the wreck of the Firefly, he
deemed it prudent to return to the depot; this course was adopted with
much regret, as the wet season had commenced, a continuance of which for
two or three weeks would probably have enabled him to have pursued the
route originally intended in search of the traces of Burke. His first
impression regarding the stream referred to was that it was created by
rain, but as it was evident that no rain had fallen for months he
concluded that this idea was incorrect. He afterwards discovered that it
owed its source to springs of a kind which he had never before met with,
the stream from which, near its source in the valley of the Gregory
River, was sufficiently powerful to turn a large mill wheel. On his route
back to the depot he found that this stream, at a point distant from
Carpentaria about 80 miles, divided into two branches, one of which
flowed into the Nicholson River, and the other into the Albert. As an
evidence of the superior quality of the country through which he passed
on his expedition to the south-west he might mention that the horses
travelled as well as if they had been stable fed. He had travelled in
Queensland and New South Wales and had never found horses stand work as
well as those horses did at Carpentaria. On returning to the depot he and
his party rested for three weeks and again started to find the tracks of
Burke and his companions. They had heard that tracks had been seen by Mr.
Walker on the Flinders River, they tried to follow Walker's tracks to the
Flinders, but although he had preceded them only by about two months, his
tracks could not be followed, owing to the rain which had fallen. They
proceeded to the Flinders, but they could find no traces of Burke. They
followed up the river for about 280 miles through a magnificent country.
When they reached this point they left the Flinders, and in less than
twenty miles further got to the watershed of the Thomson, one of the main
heads of the Cooper River. When they had proceeded about 100 miles down
the valley of the Thomson they found a tree which had been marked by a
companion of Landsborough's in a former expedition several years before,
which he was glad to be able to show, as a proof of his knowledge of the
country, to the members of his party who knew nothing of him till about a
week or ten days before he started on the expedition. Having followed
down the valley of the Thomson, through fine country, from the tree
referred to to a point within 270 miles of Burke's depot at Cooper's
River; they were most desirous to have gone to that place but their
supplies were very limited, and the blacks had repeatedly told them
through Jemmy, one of the party, who understood their language, that they
had not seen any exploring parties with camels. They therefore deemed it
the better plan to strike across, about 50 miles, to the Barcoo, the main
head of the Cooper River. This they accordingly did, and then proceeded
to the Warrego, which they followed down till they struck the Darling. On
reaching settled country they were very sorry to hear of the melancholy
fate of Burke, Wills, and Gray. They were hospitably received by the
settlers, but the season was dry and their horses fared much worse in the
settled districts than in crossing from the Gulf of Carpentaria to the
Darling. In conclusion Mr. Landsborough expressed his acknowledgments for
the warm reception which had been accorded to him and his willingness to
answer any questions that might be put to him.

In reply to questions:

Mr. Landsborough said he thought the Flinders River was about 500 miles
long. The most elevated land on the Flinders appeared to be about 1000 to
1500 feet high. The climate of Carpentaria he believed to be very dry
excepting in the months of January, February, March and April. The bed of
the Flinders when he left it was 120 yards wide, with a shallow stream
flowing along its surface. His party came through the country at a very
favourable season of the year. Thunderstorms and rainy weather might be
expected until the end of April, and sometimes as late as May. On the
heads of the Gregory River the country was of a basaltic character; and
on the Flinders there was abundance of quartz and ironbark country. He
saw about 50 miles of the latter description of country and believed from
his previous knowledge that it extended to the coast. The range dividing
the Flinders from the Cooper River country he estimated to be from 1000
to 1500 feet high, while that which he crossed on his expedition to the
south-west, though about the same height, was of quite a different
character, being composed of a basalt different from any he had seen
before. The slopes of the tableland were grassed with spinifex, which is
almost worthless. All basaltic country he had seen previously in other
parts of Australia was exceedingly well grassed.

He had no doubt that the rivers on the north side of Barkly's Tableland
were supplied by springs. Barkly's Tableland divides the northern from
the southern waters. He crossed it on his first expedition. He had never
been to the west of the Thomson. Immediately after leaving the watershed
of the Flinders he got onto that of the Thomson. On returning to the
Albert from his expedition to the south-west he came to a river which he
named O'Shanassy, which has long and deep reaches of water. In the
waterholes on the southern side of Barkly's Tableland, which he followed
down for seventy miles, he found plenty of fish, and his impression was
that these fish came up from rivers farther to the south-west. It was the
dry season when he was there, but he could see traces of water where it
had spread for several miles across the country in the wet season. He had
no doubt that, if he had been able to go farther down, he should have got
to a large river.

Dr. Mueller observed that this seemed to augur well for any expeditions
that might be undertaken from the south of the Gulf of Carpentaria to the
south-west. He begged to ask whether, in following down the tributaries
of the Thomson, Mr. Landsborough met with any traces of Dr. Leichhardt?
It would appear from the information supplied by Mr. Walker that
Leichhardt took the tributaries of the Thomson in order to be able to
skirt the desert of Captain Sturt. Mr. Landsborough said he went from
near Port Denison to the heads of the Thomson River some years ago, and
the probability was, he thought, that Mr. Walker saw his tracks or those
of Cornish and Buchanan, who had also gone from Rockhampton to the heads
of the Thomson. The party of Mr. Peter McDonald (a Victorian) also went
from Rockhampton to the southern side of the range several years ago. In
his (Mr. Landsborough's) first expedition he endeavoured to find
Leichhardt's tracks on the heads of the Thomson, but unsuccessfully.

Dr. Iffla asked whether Mr. Landsborough in the course of his brilliant
journey across the country met with many bodies of natives, and whether
they evinced a friendly or hostile disposition.

Mr. Landsborough did not admit that it was a brilliant journey.
(Laughter.) He saw very few blacks. The largest number he saw at a time
was about thirty. He saw no tracks of blacks and he could not imagine
that they were numerous. He always avoided having much intercourse with
the blacks. He seldom had any trouble with them until this expedition. On
the Barcoo River a number of blacks who had previously appeared most
friendly approached the camp in the middle of the night and, but for the
watchfulness of Jemmy, might have knocked them on the head. They were
driven away, but the next morning they appeared disposed to attack the
party. Under those circumstances he was obliged to fire upon them. One
volley and a few shots however were sufficient to get rid of them. He
came upon the Flinders above the navigable point. The range which he
crossed to the south-west of Carpentaria was a tableland, that between
the Flinders and the Thomson consisted of a series of hills and mountains
with passes between them, as Mr. Walker had described in his journal.

His Excellency inquired what were Mr. Landsborough's impressions and
ideas of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria with reference to the
settlement there of Europeans at any future time?

Mr. Landsborough replied that, although living in the open air and not
having the best of food, the country agreed admirably with him. While his
party and the crew of the Victoria were at Carpentaria there was very
little sickness among them, nor was there fever and ague. The shores were
very level. There was nothing that could be called a hill for 60 or 100
miles. Although a very dry country, there was rain for about three months
in the year, and there were in some seasons large floods. He did not
reach the Flinders River until two or three months after Walker's party,
and he could not then find Burke's tracks. He considered he could not be
expected to find them, since Mr. Walker, a gentleman whose great
perseverance and bush experience were well-known, who was then two months
before with a larger party than his and twice the equipment, could not
follow them up. He could not even find Walker's tracks. He believed it
was impossible for Burke and Wills to have gone within sight of the sea,
because saltwater creeks spread all over the country for ten miles from
the sea. This was his opinion from what he saw at the mouth of the
Albert, and he had no doubt that the mouth of the Flinders was of the
same character.

His Excellency said he was sure that they all felt very much obliged to
Mr. Landsborough for the cheerful alacrity with which he had replied to
all questions, and the amount of information about his journey which he
had laid before the meeting. The remaining business on the paper would be
postponed. He was afraid that a great many of those present were
attracted to the meeting rather by the exploration information than the
scientific papers announced to be brought forward. However this might be
he would call upon them to give three hearty cheers for Mr. King and Mr.
Landsborough.

The Society then adjourned.

...


JOURNAL: LANDSBOROUGH'S EXPEDITION FROM CARPENTARIA TO VICTORIA.

In laying before our readers the whole of Mr. Landsborough's journal,
descriptive of the country he passed over in crossing the continent, some
explanatory notes respecting the vegetation, etc., may be found
acceptable and they are therefore given at the end. We are indebted to
Dr. Mueller for some of them.

The party consisted of:

Mr. W. Landsborough, leader.
Mr. Bourne, second in command.
Gleeson.
Aboriginals: Jemmy, Fisherman, Jackey.

The party left Carpentaria on the 8th of February and arrived at Messrs.
Williams' station on the Warrego River on the 21st of May--inclusive of
both dates, 103 days. The total weight of provisions with which the party
started was 1,279 pounds.

CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNAL OF W. LANDSBOROUGH, COMMANDER OF THE P

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