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The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots

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Title: The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots

Author: Sutton & Sons Ltd.


        
Release date: July 7, 2005 [eBook #16232]
                Most recently updated: August 10, 2020

Language: English

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[Illustration]




THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS


BY

SUTTON AND SONS READING

SIXTEENTH EDITION

LONDON

SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO; LTD.

1921

All rights reserved

PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE AND CO. LTD. LONDON, COLCHESTER AND
ETON


Contents

THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES
A YEAR’S WORK IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN
JANUARY
FEBRUARY
MARCH
APRIL
MAY
JUNE
JULY
AUGUST
SEPTEMBER
OCTOBER
NOVEMBER
DECEMBER
THE ROTATION OF CROPS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN
THE CHEMISTRY OF GARDEN CROPS
ARTIFICIAL MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION TO GARDEN CROPS
THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS FROM SEEDS
THE CULTURE OF FLOWERING BULBS
FLOWERS ALL THE YEAR ROUND FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS
THE PESTS OF GARDEN PLANTS
THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN GARDEN PLANTS
THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN FLOWERS
INDEX




THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES


Horticulture has a full share in the progressive character of the age.
Changes have been effected in the Kitchen Garden which are quite as
remarkable as the altered methods of locomotion, lighting and
sanitation. Vegetables are grown in greater variety, of higher quality,
and are sent to table both earlier and later in the season than was
considered possible by gardeners of former generations.

When Parkinson directed his readers to prepare Melons for eating by
mixing with the pulp ‘salt and pepper and good store of wine,’ he must
have been familiar with fruit differing widely from the superb
varieties which are now in favour. A kindred plant, the Cucumber, is
more prolific than ever, and the fruits win admiration for their
symmetrical form.

The Tomato has ceased to be a summer luxury for the few, and is now
prized as a delicacy throughout the year by all classes of the
community.

As a result of the hybridiser’s skill modern Potatoes produce heavier
crops, less liable to succumb to the attacks of disease, than the old
varieties, and the finest table quality has been maintained.

Peas are not what they were because they are so immensely better. While
the powers of the plant have been concentrated, with the result that it
occupies less room and occasions less trouble, its productiveness has
been augmented and the quality improved. All the pulse tribe have
shared in the advance, and a comparison of any dozen or score of the
favourite sorts of Peas or Beans grown to-day with the same number of
favourites of half or even a quarter of a century since will at once
prove that progress in horticulture is no dream of the enthusiast.

Among the Brassicas, such as Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage and
Cauliflower, a series of remarkable examples might be mentioned; and
roots such as Beet, Carrot, Onion, Radish and Turnip afford other
striking instances of improvement. Salads also, including Celery,
Chicory, Endive and Lettuce, have participated in the beneficial change
and offer a large choice of dainties, adapted to various periods of the
year. Indeed it may be truly said that none of the occupants of the
vegetable garden have refused to be improved by scientific crossing and
selection.

The vegetables which are available for daily use offer a wide and most
interesting field to the expert in selecting and hybridising. For past
achievements we are indebted to the untiring labours of specialists,
and to their continued efforts we look for further results. Whether the
future may have in store greater changes than have already been
witnessed none can tell. One thing only is certain, that finality is
unattainable, and the knowledge of this fact adds to the charm of a
fascinating pursuit. Happily, innovations are no longer received with
the suspicion or hostility they formerly encountered. In gardens
conducted with a spirit of enterprise novelties are welcome and have an
impartial trial. The prudent gardener will regard these sowings as
purely experimental, made for the express purpose of ascertaining
whether better crops can be secured in future years. For his principal
supplies he will rely on those varieties which experience has proved to
be suitable for the soil and adapted to the requirements of the
household he has to serve. By growing the best of everything, and
growing everything well, not only is the finest produce insured in
abundance, but every year the garden presents new features of interest.

In considering the general order of work in the Kitchen Garden, the
first principle is that its productive powers shall be taxed to the
utmost. There need be no fallowing—no resting of the ground; and if it
should so happen that by hard cropping perplexity arises about the
disposal of produce, the proverbial three courses are open—to sell, to
give, or to dig the stuff in as manure. The last-named course will pay
well, especially in the disposal of the remains of Cabbage, Kale,
Turnips, and other vegetables that have stood through the winter and
occupy ground required for spring seeds. Bury them in trenches, and sow
Peas, Beans, &c., over them, and in due time full value will be
obtained for the buried crops and the labour bestowed upon them. But
hard cropping implies abundant manuring and incessant stirring of the
soil. To take much off and put little on is like burning the candle at
both ends, or expecting the whip to be an efficient substitute for corn
when the horse has extra work to do. Dig deep always: if the soil be
shallow it is advisable to turn the top spit in the usual manner, and
break up the subsoil thoroughly for another twelve or fifteen inches.
Where the soil is deep and the staple good, trench a piece every year
two spits deep, the autumn being the best time for this work, because
of the immense benefit which results from the exposure of newly turned
soil to rain, snow, frost, and the rest of Nature’s great army of
fertilising agencies.

In practical work there is nothing like method. Crop the ground
systematically, as if an account of the procedure had to be laid before
a committee of severe critics. Constantly forecast future work and the
disposition of the ground for various crops, keeping in mind the
proportions they should bear to each other. Be particular to have a
sufficiency of the flavouring and garnishing herbs always ready and
near at hand. These are sometimes wanted suddenly, and in a
well-ordered garden it should not be difficult to gather a tuft of
Parsley in the dark. Change crops from place to place, so as to avoid
growing the same things on the same plots in two successive seasons.
This rule, though of great importance, cannot be strictly followed, and
may be disregarded to a certain extent where the land is constantly and
heavily manured. It is, however, of more consequence in connection with
the Potato than with aught else, and this valuable root should, if
possible, be grown on a different plot every year, so that it shall be
three or four years in travelling round the garden. Lastly, sow
everything in drills at the proper distances apart. Broadcasting is a
slovenly mode of sowing, and necessitates slovenly cultivation
afterwards. When crops are in drills they can be efficiently thinned,
weeded and hoed—in other words, they can be cultivated. But
broadcasting pretty well excludes the cultivator from the land, and can
only be commended to the idle man, who will be content with half a crop
of poor quality, while the land may be capable of producing a crop at
once the heaviest and the best.

GLOBE ARTICHOKE

Cynara Scolymus

The Globe Artichoke is grown mainly for the sake of its flower-heads
which make a delightful dish when cooked while immature. The plant is
easily raised from seed, although not quite hardy in some districts. It
will grow on almost any soil, but for the production of large fleshy
heads, deep rich ground is requisite. The preparation of the soil
should be liberal, and apart from the use of animal manure the plant
may be greatly aided by wood-ashes and seaweed, for it is partial to
saline manures, its home being the sandy seashores of Northern Africa.

The simplest routine of cultivation consists in sowing annually, and
allowing each plantation to stand to the close of the second season.
Seed may be sown in February in boxes of light soil, or in the open
ground in March or April. In the former case, put in the seeds one inch
deep and four inches apart, and start them in gentle heat. Grow on the
seedlings steadily, and thoroughly harden off preparatory to planting
out at the end of April, giving each a space of three to four feet
apart each way. Under favourable conditions the plants from the
February sowing will produce heads in the following August, September,
and October. In the second year, the heads will be formed during June
and July. This arrangement not only insures a supply of heads from June
to October, but admits of a more effective rotation of crops in the
garden.

Sowings in the open ground should be made in March or April, in drills
one foot apart. Thin out the plants to six inches apart in the rows and
allow them to stand until the following spring, when they may be
transplanted to permanent beds.

Globe Artichokes may also be grown from suckers planted out in April
when about nine inches high. Put them in rather deep, tread in firmly,
and lay on any rough mulch that may be handy. Should the weather be dry
they will require watering, and during a hot dry spell water and liquid
manure should be given freely to insure a good supply of large heads.
Seedlings that are started well in a suitable bed take better care of
themselves than do plants from suckers, especially in a dry season.
Vigorous seedlings send down their roots to a great depth.

To advise on weeding and hoeing for the promotion of a clean and strong
growth should be needless, because all crops require such attention.
But as to the production of large heads, a few words of advice may be
useful. It is the practice with some growers to twist a piece of wire
round the stem about three inches below the head. This certainly does
tend to increase the size, but the same end may be accomplished by
other means. In the first place, a rich deep bed and abundant supplies
of water will encourage the growth of fine heads. Further aid in the
same direction will be derived from the removal of all the lateral
heads that appear when they are about as large as an egg. Up to this
stage they do not tax the energies of the plants in any great degree;
but as the flowers are forming within them their demands increase
rapidly. Their removal, therefore, has an immediate effect on the main
heads, and these attain to large dimensions without the aid of wire.
The small heads will be valued at many tables for eating raw, as they
are eaten in Italy, or cooked as ‘artichauts frits.’ The larger main
heads are the best for serving boiled in the usual way. After the heads
are used the plants should be cut down.

Chards are the blanched summer growth of Globe Artichokes, and are by
many preferred to blanched Cardoons. In the early part of July the
plants selected for Chards must be cut over about six inches above the
ground. In a few days after this operation they will need a copious
watering, which should be repeated weekly, except when heavy rains
occur. By the end of September the plants will have made much growth
and be ready for blanching. Draw them together, put a band of hay or
straw around them, and earth them up, finishing the work neatly. The
blanching will take fully six weeks, during which time there will be
but little growth made—hence the necessity for promoting free growth
before earthing up. Any Chards not used before winter sets in may be
lifted and preserved by packing in sand in a dry shed.

The Artichoke is hardy on dry soils when the winter is of only average
severity. But on retentive soils, which are most favourable to the
production of fine heads, a severe winter will destroy the plantations
unless they have some kind of protection. The usual course of procedure
is to cut down the stems and large leaves without touching the smaller
central leaves, and, when severe frost appears probable, partially
earth up the rows with soil taken from between; this protection is
strengthened by the addition of light dry litter loosely thrown over.
With the return of spring the litter is removed, the earth is dug back,
and all the suckers but about three removed: then a liberal dressing of
manure is dug in, care being taken to do as little injury to the plants
above and below ground as possible. At the end of five years a
plantation will be quite worn out; in somewhat poor soil it will be
exhausted in three years. But on any kind of soil the cultivation of
this elegant vegetable is greatly simplified by sowing annually, and
allowing the plants to stand for two years only, as already advised.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE

Helianthus tuberosus

The Jerusalem Artichoke is a member of the Sunflower tribe, quite
hardy, and productive of wholesome roots that are in favour with many
as a delicacy, and by others are regarded as worthless. It is said that
wise men learn to eat every good thing the earth produces, and this
root is a good thing when properly served; but when cooked in the same
way as a Potato it certainly is a very poor vegetable indeed. It is a
matter of some interest, however, that in respect of nutritive value it
is about equal to the Potato; therefore, in growing it for domestic use
nothing is lost in the way of food, though it needs to be cooked in a
different way.

The Jerusalem Artichoke will grow anywhere; indeed, it will often yield
a profitable return on land which is unsuitable for any other crop, but
to insure a fine sample it requires a deep friable loam and an open
situation. We have grown immense crops on a strong deep clay, but it is
not a clay plant, because it soon suffers from any excess of moisture.
To prepare the ground well for this crop is a matter of importance, for
it roots freely and makes an immense top-growth, reaching, when very
vigorous, a height of ten or twelve feet. Trench and manure in autumn,
and leave the land rough for the winter. Plant in February or March,
using whole or cut sets with about three eyes to each, and put them in
trenches six inches deep and three feet apart, the sets being one foot
apart in the trenches. When the plants appear, hoe the ground between,
draw a little fine earth to the stems, and leave the rest to Nature.
Take up a portion of the crop in November and store in sand and dig the
remainder when wanted, as recommended in the case of Parsnips. The
tubers must be dug with a fork by opening trenches and cleaning out
every scrap of the roots, for whatever remains will grow and become
troublesome in the following season.

ASPARAGUS

Asparagus officinalis

Asparagus is a liliaceous plant of perennial duration, and it demands
more generous treatment than the majority of Kitchen Garden crops.
Under favourable conditions it improves with age to such an extent as
to justify the best possible cultivation. Plantations that have stood
and prospered for twenty or even thirty years are not uncommon, but a
fair average term is ten years, after which it is generally advisable
to break up a bed, the precaution being first taken to secure a
succession bed on fresh soil well prepared for the purpose. Plantations
are made either by sowing seeds or from transplanted roots; and
although roots are extremely sensitive when moved, success can, as a
rule, be insured by special care and prompt action, assuming that the
proper time of year is chosen for the operation. The advantage of using
roots is the saving of time, and in most gardens this is an important
consideration. Fortunately roots may be planted almost as safely when
two or three years old as at one year.

Soil.—Asparagus will grow in any soil that is well cultivated; a deep
rich sandy loam being especially suitable. Calcareous soil is by no
means unfavourable to Asparagus; still, a sand rich in humus is not the
less to be desired, as the finest samples of European growth are the
produce of the districts around Paris and Brussels. The London
Asparagus, which is prized by many for its full flavour and tenderness,
is for the most part grown near at hand, in deep alluvial soils
enriched with abundance of manure. Nature gives us the key to every
secret that concerns our happiness, and on the cultivation of Asparagus
she is liberal in her teaching. The plant is found growing wild on the
sandy coasts of the British Islands—a proof that it loves sand and
salt.

Preparation of Ground.—The routine cultivation must begin with a
thorough preparation of the ground. Efficient drainage is imperative,
for stagnant water in the subsoil is fatal to the plant. But a rich
loam does not need the extravagant manuring that has been recommended
and practised. Deep digging and, where the subsoil is good, trenching
may be recommended, but an average manuring will suffice, because
Asparagus can be effectually aided by annual top-dressings, and proper
surface culture is of great importance in the subsequent stages. It is
necessary to choose an open spot for the plantation. Preparation of the
ground should commence in the autumn and be continued through the
winter, a heavy dressing of half-rotten stable manure being put on in
the first instance, and trenched in two feet deep. In the course of a
month the whole piece should be trenched back. If labour is at command
a third trenching may be done with advantage, and the surface may be
left ridged up until the time arrives to level it for seeding. It will
be obvious that this routine is of a somewhat costly character, but we
are supposing the plantation is to remain for many years, making an
abundant return for the first investment. Still we are bound to say
that a capital supply for a moderate table may be obtained by preparing
a piece of good ground in an open situation in a quite ordinary manner
with one deep digging in winter, adding at the time some six inches or
so of fat stable manure, and leaving it thus until the time arrives for
sowing the seed. Then it will be well to level down and point in, half
a spade deep, a thin coat of decayed manure to make a nice kindly
seed-bed.

Where soil known to be unsuitable, such as a damp clay or pasty loam,
has to be prepared for Asparagus, it will be found an economical
practice to remove the top spit, which we will suppose to be turf or
old cultivated soil, and on the space so cleared make up a bed of the
best possible materials at command. Towards this mixture there is the
top spit just referred to. Add any available lime rubbish from
destroyed buildings, sand, peat, leaf-mould, surface soil raked from
the rear of the shrubberies, &c., and the result should be a good
compost obtained at an almost nominal cost.

Size of Bed, and Sowing Seed.—At this juncture several questions of
considerable importance arise. And first, whether the crop shall be
grown on the flat or in raised beds. Where the soil is sufficiently
deep, and the drainage perfect, the flat system answers well. The
advantages of raised beds are that they deepen the soil, assist the
drainage, promote warmth, and thus aid the growth of an early crop. In
fact, raised beds render it possible to grow Asparagus on soils from
which this vegetable could not otherwise be obtained. The preparation
is the same in either case, and therefore we shall make no further
allusion to flat beds, but leave those to adopt them who find their
soil and requirements suitable. Now comes the question of distance, on
which depends the width of the beds. The first point may be settled by
the measure of the plant, and the second by the measure of the man.
Monster sticks are valued at some tables, and we shall refer to these
later on, but an abundant crop of handsome, though not abnormal,
Asparagus meets the requirements of most households. After many
experiments, we have come to the conclusion that the best mode of
insuring a full return of really good sticks, with the least amount of
labour, is to lay out the land in three-feet beds, with two-feet alleys
between. In some instances, no doubt, five-feet beds, containing three
rows of roots, one down the middle and one on each side at a distance
of eighteen inches, are preferable. For the majority of gardens,
however, the three-feet bed is a distinct advantage, were it only for
the fact that all excuse for putting a foot on the bed is avoided. On
this narrow bed only two rows of plants will be necessary. Put down the
line at nine inches from the edge on both sides, and at intervals of
fifteen inches in the rows dibble holes two inches deep, dropping two
or three seeds in each. This will give a distance between the rows of
eighteen inches. In very strong land, heavily manured, the holes may be
eighteen inches apart instead of fifteen. April is the right month for
sowing.

Thinning.—When the ‘grass’ from seeds has grown about six inches high,
only the strongest plant must be left at each station, and they should
finally stand at a distance of fifteen or eighteen inches in the row.
Much of the injury reported to follow from close planting has been the
result of carelessness in thinning. The young plant is such a slender,
delicate thing, that, to the thoughtless operator, it seems folly to
thin down to one only. The consequence is that two or three, or perhaps
half a dozen, plants are left at each station to ‘fight it out,’ and
these become so intermixed as to appear to be one, though really many,
and of course amongst them they produce more shoots than can be fed
properly by the limited range of their roots. Severe, or may we say
mathematical, thinning is a _sine quâ non_, and it requires sharp eyes
and careful fingers; but it must be done if the Asparagus beds are to
become, as they should be, the pride of the Kitchen Garden.

Blanching.—The grave question of white _versus_ green Asparagus we
cannot entertain, except so far as concerns the cultivator only. On the
point of taste, therefore, we say nothing; and it is a mere matter of
management whether the sticks are blanched to the very tip, or allowed
to become green for some few inches. Blanching is effected in various
ways. The heaping up of soft soil, such as leaf-mould, will accomplish
it. On the Continent many contrivances are resorted to, such as
covering the heads with wooden or earthen pipes. In a few districts in
France champagne-bottles with the bottoms cut away are employed. But a
strong growth being secured, the cultivator will find it an easy matter
to regulate the degree of colour according to the requirements of the
table he has to serve. As a rule, a moderately stout growth, with a
fair show of purple colour, is everywhere appreciated, and is the
easiest to produce, because the most natural.

There is, however, an interesting point in connection with the
production of green Asparagus, and it is that if wintry weather
prevails when the heads are rising (as unfortunately is often the case)
the tender green tops may be melted by frost and become worthless, or
may be rendered so tough as to place the quality below that of blanched
Asparagus; for the blanching is also a protective process, and quickly
grown white Asparagus is often more tender and tasty than that which is
green, but has been grown slowly. As the season advances and the heads
rise rapidly the green Asparagus acquires its proper flavour and
tenderness, and thus practical considerations should more or less
influence final decisions on matters of taste. The business of the
cultivator is to produce the kind of growth that is required, whether
white or green, or of a quality intermediate between the two. This is
easily done, making allowance for conditions. When green Asparagus is
alone in demand, the cultivator may be advised to have in readiness, as
the heads are making their first show, a sufficient supply of some
rough and cheap protecting material, such as grass and coarse weeds,
cut with a sickle from odd corners of the shrubbery and meadow land, or
clean hay and straw perfectly free from mildew; but for obvious reasons
stable litter should not be used. A very light sprinkling of material
over an Asparagus bed that is making a first show of produce will ward
off the morning frosts, and amply compensate for the little trouble in
saving many tender green sticks that the frosts would melt to a jelly
and render worthless. After the second or third week in May the litter
may be removed if needful; but if appearances are of secondary
importance, it may be left to shrink away on the spot.

Cutting.—Asparagus as supplied by market growers is needlessly long in
the stem. The bundles have an imposing appearance, no doubt, but the
useless length adds nothing to the comfort of those at table, and is a
wasteful tax on the energy of the plant. For home consumption it will
generally suffice if the white portion is about four inches long, and
this determines the depth at which the sticks should be cut. Here it
may be useful to remark that deeply buried roots do not thrive so well
as those which are nearer the surface, nor do they produce such early
crops. The sticks are usually cut by thrusting down a stiff
narrow-pointed knife, or specially made saw, close to each shoot; and
it is necessary to do this with judgment, or adjacent shoots, which are
not sufficiently advanced to reveal their presence by lifting the soil,
may be damaged. To avoid this risk of injury by the knife it is
possible from some beds to obtain the sticks without the aid of any
implement by a twist and pull combined, but the process needs a
dexterous hand and is impracticable in tenacious soils. The sticks of a
handsome sample will be white four or five inches of their length; the
tops close, plump, of a purplish-green colour, and the colour extending
two or at most three inches down the stems. Both size and degree of
colouring are, however, so entirely questions of taste that no definite
rule can be stated. It is more to the purpose to say that, if liberally
grown, the plant may be cut from in the third year; and that cutting
should cease about the middle of June, or early in July, according to
the district. For the good of the plant the sooner cutting ceases the
better, as the next year’s buds have to be formed in the roots by the
aid of the top-growth of the current season.

Weeding and Staking.—Two other points relating to the general
management are worthy of attention. Some crops get on fairly well when
neglected and crowded with weeds. Not so with Asparagus. The plant
appears to have been designed to enjoy life in solitude, being unfit
for competition; and if weeds make way in an Asparagus bed, the
cultivator will pay a heavy penalty for his neglect of duty. The
limitation of the beds to a width of three feet, therefore, is of
consequence, because it facilitates weeding without putting a foot on
them. The other point arises out of the necessity of affording support
to the frail plant in places where it may happen to be exposed to wind.
When Asparagus in high summer is rudely shaken, the stems snap off at
the base, and the roots lose the service of the top-growth in maturing
buds for the next season. To prevent this injury is easy enough, but
the precautions must be adopted in good time. A free use of light,
feathery stakes, such as are employed for the support of Peas, thrust
in firmly all over the bed, will insure all needful support when gales
are blowing. In the absence of pea-sticks, stout stakes, placed at
suitable distances and connected with lengths of thick tarred twine,
will answer equally well. In sheltered gardens the protection of the
young growth with litter, and of the mature growth with stakes, need
not be resorted to, but in exposed situations these precautions should
not be neglected.

Manuring Permanent Beds.—The management of Asparagus includes a careful
clean-up of the beds in autumn. The plants should not be cut down until
they change colour; then all the top-growth may be cleared away and the
surface raked clean. Give the beds a liberal dressing of half-decayed
manure, and carefully touch up the sides to make them neat and tidy. It
is usual at the same time to dig and manure the alleys, but this
practice we object to _in toto_, because it tends directly to the
production of lean sticks where fat ones are possible; for the roots
run freely in the alleys, and to dig is to destroy them. In the spring
clear the beds of the autumn dressing by raking any remnant of manure
into the alleys, and the beds and the alleys should then be carefully
pricked over with a fork two or three inches deep only, and with great
care not to wound any roots.

The application of salt requires judgment. For a time it renders the
bed cold, and when followed by snow the two combine to make a freezing
mixture which arrests the growth of established plants. On a newly made
bed salt is unnecessary, and may prove destructive to the roots. The
proper time for applying salt must be determined by the district and
the character of the season; but in no case should the mineral be used
until active growth has commenced, although it is not needful to wait
until the growth is visible above the surface. In the southern counties
a suitable opportunity may generally be found from the beginning to the
middle of April. Second and third dressings may follow at intervals of
three weeks, which not only stimulate the roots but keep down weeds.

Planting Roots.—In many gardens where there is space for two or three
beds only there will be the very natural desire to secure Asparagus in
a shorter time than is possible from seed, and we therefore proceed to
indicate the best method of planting roots. Asparagus roots do not take
kindly to removal, especially old and established plants. The mere
drying of the roots by exposure to the atmosphere is distinctly
injurious to them. They will travel safely a long distance when well
packed, but the critical time is between the unpacking and getting them
safely into their final home. Everything should be made ready for the
transfer before the package is opened, and the actual task of planting
should be accomplished in the shortest time possible.

A three-feet bed should be prepared by taking out the soil in such a
manner as to leave two ridges for the roots. The space between ridges
to be eighteen inches, and the tops of the ridges to be so far below
the level of the bed that when the soil is returned, and the bed made
to its normal level, the crowns will be about five inches beneath the
surface. This may be understood from the following illustration of a
section cut across the bed.

[Illustration: bedlayout]

A, A represent the alleys between the beds, and B the top of one bed.
The dotted lines show the ridges on which the roots are to rest at C,
C. When the bed is ready, open the package and place the Asparagus on
the ridges at fifteen or eighteen inches apart, allowing about half the
roots of each plant to fall down on either side of the ridge. As a rule
it will be wise to have two pairs of hands engaged in the task. The
soil should be filled in expeditiously, and a finishing touch be given
to the bed. Very rarely will it be safe to transplant Asparagus until
the end of March or beginning of April, for although established roots
will pass unharmed through a very severe winter, those which have
recently been removed are often killed outright by a lengthened period
of cold wet weather, and especially by thawed snow followed by frost.

Giant Asparagus.—Some of the most critical judges of Asparagus in the
country are extremely partial to giant sticks. Their preference is not
based on mere superiority in size, but on the special flavour which is
the peculiar merit of these extra-large Asparagus when they are
properly grown. Although there is no difficulty whatever in producing
them, it must be admitted that to insure specimens weighing nearly or
quite half a pound, plenty of space must be allowed for the full
development of each plant and a prodigal use of manure is imperative.
Where drainage is effectual, the soil of any well-tilled garden can be
made suitable. The roots may be grown in clumps or in rows. Clumps are
planted in triangular form, two feet being allowed between the three
plants of each group, with a distance of five feet between the groups.
The more usual method, however, is to plant in rows. In both cases the
cultural details are almost identical, and to obtain the finest results
it is wise to get the preparatory work done at convenient times in
advance of the planting season. Assuming that rows are decided on,
commence operations by digging a broad deep trench, throwing out the
soil to the right and left to form sloping sides until there is a
perpendicular depth of twenty-seven inches from the top of the ridge.
About one foot of prepared soil should be placed in the bottom of the
trench. This may be composed of such material as the trimmings of
hedges, sweepings of shrubberies, twigs from a faggot pile, wood ashes
and leaf-mould. The constituents must to some extent depend on the
materials at command. What is wanted is a light compost, consisting
almost wholly of vegetable matter in a more or less advanced state of
decomposition. Add three or four inches of rich loam, and on this, at
the beginning of April, plant strong one-year roots of a robust-growing
variety. Between the plants it is customary to allow a space of at
least two feet, and some growers put them a full yard apart. Cover the
crowns with three inches of rich soil, previously mixed with manure and
laid up for the purpose. The second and following rows are to be
treated in the same way, and the work must be so managed that an equal
distance of four and a half or five feet is left between the rows. When
the foliage dies down in autumn, a layer of fertile loam mixed with
rotten manure should be spread over the surface. In the succeeding
spring remove just the top crust of soil and give a thick dressing of
decayed manure alone, upon which the soil can be restored. During the
autumn of the second year the furrow must be filled with horse manure
for the winter. Remove this manure in March, and substitute good loam
containing a liberal admixture of decayed manure previously
incorporated with the soil. The slight ridges that remain can then be
levelled down. By this treatment large handsome sticks of Asparagus may
be cut in the third year. To maintain the plants in a high state of
efficiency, it must be clearly understood that forcing with horse
manure will be necessary every subsequent year. Blanching may be
carried out by any of the usual methods, and Sea Kale pots are both
convenient and effectual. Not a weed should be visible on the beds at
any time.

Forcing is variously practised, and the best possible system,
doubtless, is to force in the beds, and thereby train the plants to
their work so that they become used to it. The growers who supply Paris
with forced Asparagus produce the white sample in the beds, and the
green by removal of the roots to frames. Forcing in beds may be
accomplished by means of trenches filled with fermenting material or by
hot-water pipes, the beds in either case being covered with frames.
Where the demand for forced Asparagus is constant, there can be no
doubt the hot-water system is the cheapest as well as the cleanest and
most reliable; for a casual supply forcing in frames answers very well,
but it is attended with the disadvantage that when the crop has been
secured the roots are worthless. The practice of forcing may be said to
commence with the formation of the seed-bed, for if it is to be carried
on in a systematic and profitable manner, every detail must be provided
for in the original arrangements. The width of the beds and of the
alleys, and the disposition of the plants, will have to be carefully
considered, so as to insure the best results of a costly procedure, and
it will be waste of time to begin forcing until the plants have
attained their fourth year. The rough method of market growers consists
in the employment of hot manure in trenches, and also on the beds,
after the frames are put on. The beds are usually four feet wide, the
alleys two feet wide and twenty inches deep, and the plants not more
than nine inches apart in the row, there being three or four rows of
plants in the bed. The frames are put on when forcing commences, but
the lights are withheld until the shoots begin to appear. Then the
fermenting material is removed from the beds, the lights are put on,
and no air is given, mats being added in cold weather, both to retain
warmth and promote blanching. This method produces a fair market
sample, but a much better growth may be obtained by a good hot-water
system, as will be understood from a momentary consideration of
details. By the employment of fermenting material the temperature runs
up rapidly, sometimes extravagantly, so that it is no uncommon event
for the growth to commence at 70° to 80° Fahr., which may produce a
handsome sample, but it will be flavourless. The hot-water system
allows of perfect control, and the prudent grower will begin at 50°,
rise slowly to 60°, and take care not to exceed 65°; the result will be
a sample full of flavour, with a finer appearance than the best
obtainable by the rougher method.

Forcing in frames is systematically practised in many gardens, and as
it exhausts the roots there must be a corresponding production of roots
for the purpose. The first requisite is a good lasting hotbed, covered
with about four inches of light soil of any kind, but preferably
leaf-mould. The roots are carefully lifted and planted as closely as
possible on this bed, and covered with fine soil to a depth of six
inches. The sashes are then put on and kept close; but a little air may
be given as the heads rise, to promote colour and flavour. The heat
will generally run to 70°, and that figure should be the maximum
allowed. Experienced growers prefer to force at 60° or 65°, and to take
a little more time for the advantage of a finer sample.

BROAD BEAN

Faba vulgaris

The Broad Bean is a thrifty plant, as hardy as any in the garden, and
very accommodating as to soil. It is quite at home on heavy land, but
in common with nearly all other vegetables it thrives on a deep sandy
loam. Considering the productive nature of the plant and its
comparatively brief occupation of the ground, the common Bean must be
regarded as one of our most profitable garden crops. Both the Longpod
and Windsor classes should be grown. For general work the Longpods are
invaluable; they are early, thoroughly hardy, produce heavy crops, and
in appearance and flavour satisfy the world at large, as may be proved
by appeal to the markets. The Windsor Beans are especially prized for
their superior quality, being tender, full of flavour, and, if well
managed, most tempting in colour when put upon the table.

For early crops the Longpods claim attention, and sowings may be made
towards the end of October or during November on a dry soil in a warm
situation, sheltered from the north. Choose a dry day for the
operation. On no account should the attempt be made while the soil
conditions are unfavourable, even if the sowing is thereby deferred for
some time. The distance must depend upon the sorts, but two feet will
answer generally as the distance between the double rows; the two lines
forming the double rows may be nine inches apart, and the seed two
inches deep. On strong ground a distance of three feet can be allowed
between the double rows, but it is not well to give overmuch space,
because the plants protect each other somewhat, and earliness of
production is the matter of chief moment. Thoroughly consolidate the
soil to encourage sturdy hard growth which will successfully withstand
the excessive moisture and cold of winter. It is an excellent practice
to prepare a piece of good ground sloping to the south, and on this to
make a plantation in February of plants carefully lifted from the seed
rows, wherever they can be spared as proper thinnings. These should be
put in double rows, three feet apart. If transplanted with care they
will receive but a slight check, and will give a successional supply.

Main Crops.—Another sowing may be made towards the end of January, but
for the main crop wait until February or March. For succession crops
sowings may be made until mid-April, after which time there is risk of
failure, especially on hot soils. A strong soil is suitable, and
generally speaking a heavy crop of Beans may be taken from a
well-managed clay. But any deep cool soil will answer, and where there
is a regular demand for Beans the cultivator may be advised to grow
both Longpods and Windsors—the first for earliness and bulk, the second
for quality. The double rows of maincrop Beans should be fully three
feet apart, and the plants quite nine inches apart in the rows. The
preparation of the seed-bed must be of a generous nature. Where grass
land or land of questionable quality is broken up and trenched, it will
be tolerably safe to crop it with Beans as a first start; and to
prepare it for the crop a good body of fat stable manure should be laid
in between the first and second spits, as this will carry the crop
through, while insuring to the subsoil that has been brought up a time
of seasoning with the least risk of any consequent loss.

There is not much more to be said about growing Beans; the ground must
be kept clean, and the hoe will have its work here as elsewhere. The
pinching out of the tops as soon as there is a fair show of blossom is
a good plan, whether fly is visible or not, and it is also advisable to
root out all plants as fast as they finish their work, for if left they
throw up suckers and exhaust the soil. The gathering of the crop is
often so carelessly performed that the supply is suddenly arrested.

Sowings under Glass.—In an emergency, Beans may be started in pots in
the greenhouse, or on turf sods in frames for planting out, in
precisely the same way as Peas for early crops. This practice is
convenient in cases where heavy water-logged ground precludes outdoor
sowing in autumn and early spring. In all such cases care must be taken
that the forcing is of the most moderate character, or the crop will be
poor and late, instead of being plentiful and early. When pushed on
under glass for planting out, the young stock must have as much light
and air as possible consistent with safety, and a slow healthy growth
will better answer the purpose than a rapid growth producing long legs
and pale leaves, because the physique of infancy determines in a great
degree that of maturity, not less in plants than in animals.

DWARF FRENCH BEAN

Phaseolus vulgaris

Among summer vegetables Dwarf French Beans are deservedly in high
favour, and are everywhere sown at the earliest moment consistent with
reasonable expectations of their safety. This early sowing is
altogether laudable, for although it occasionally entails the loss of a
plantation, the aggregate result is advantageous, and a very little
protection suffices to carry the early plant through the late spring
frosts. But those who supply our tables with green delicacies do not
all recognise the importance of late sowings of Dwarf Beans. Here,
again, a risk must be incurred, but the cost is trifling, and when the
summer is prolonged to October the late-sown Beans are highly prized.
Even if they produce plentifully through September there is a great
point gained, but that cannot be secured from the earliest sowings; it
is impossible. After July it is useless to sow Beans, but where the
demand is constant, two or three sowings may be made in this month,
choosing the most sheltered nooks that can be found for them. For late
sowings the earliest sorts should have preference.

Dwarf Beans for main crops require a good though somewhat light soil;
but any fairly productive loam will answer the purpose, and the crop
will yield an ample return for such reasonable digging and dressing as
a careful cultivator will not fail to bestow. At the same time, it is a
matter of some practical importance that the poorest land ever put
under tillage will, in an average season, yield serviceable crops of
these legumes, and on a rich soil of some depth the Dwarf Bean will
endure summer drought better than any other crop in the Kitchen Garden.
Earliness of production is of the highest importance up to a certain
point; but an early crop being provided for, abundance of production
next claims consideration, the heaviest bearers being of course best
adapted for main-crop sowing. As regards the sowing and general
culture, it is too often true that Dwarf Beans are crowded injuriously,
even in gardens that are usually well managed. Nothing is gained by
crowding. On the contrary, loss always ensues when the individual
plant, through deficiency of space, is hindered in its full
development.

For early crops which are eventually to come to maturity in the open
ground, the first sowings may be made in the month of April, either in
boxes in a gentle heat, or better still in a frame on a sunny border
without artificial heat. In districts where frost frequently prevails
in May, and on heavy soils where early sowings outdoors are
impracticable in a wet spring, the forwarding of plants under glass is
very desirable, but the actual date for sowing must depend on local
conditions. The tender growth that is produced by a forcing process is
not well adapted for planting out in May; but a plant produced slowly,
with plenty of light and air, will be stout and strong, and if put out
with care as soon as mild weather occurs in May, will make good
progress and yield an early crop. The seed for this purpose should be
sown in rather light turfy soil, as the plants may then be lifted
without injury to their fleshy roots. Careful treatment will be
desirable for some time after they are planted, such as protection from
sun and frost, and watering, if necessary, although the less watering
the better, provided the plants can hold their ground. The plot to
which these early sowings are to be transplanted should be light and
rich, and lying towards the sun; open the lines with the spade or hoe
in preference to using the dibber, and as fast as the roots are dropped
into their places with their balls of earth unbroken, carefully restore
the fine soil from the surface. Rough handling will seriously interfere
with the ultimate result, but ordinary care will insure abundant
gatherings of first-class produce at a time when there are but few in
the market. On dry soils a small sowing may be made about the second
week of April on a sheltered south border. Sow in double rows six
inches apart, and allow a distance of two feet between the double rows.
When the seedlings appear give protection if necessary, and in due
course thin the plants to six inches apart in the rows.

Main crops are sown from the last week in April to the middle of June.
The distance for the rows may be from one and a half to two feet apart,
according to the vigour of the variety, the strongest growers requiring
fully two feet, and the distance between the plants may be eight to
twelve inches; therefore it is well to sow the seed two to three inches
apart, and thin out as soon as the rough leaves appear. The ground
being in fairly good condition, it will only be necessary to chop over
the surface, if at all lumpy, and with the hoe draw drills about two
inches deep, which is far better than dibbling, except on very light
soil, when dibbling about three inches deep is quite allowable.
Generally speaking, if the plot be kept clean, the Beans will take care
of themselves; but in droughty weather a heavy watering now and then
will be visibly beneficial, for although the plant bears drought well,
it is like other good things in requiring something to live upon. In
exposed situations and where storms are prevalent, it is an excellent
practice to support the plants with bushy twigs.

Late Crops.—To extend the outdoor supply sowings may be made early in
July. When the ground has become dry and hard, it is advisable to soak
the seed in water for five or six hours; the drills should also be
watered, and, if possible, the ground should be covered with rotten
dung, spent hops, or some other mulchy stuff to promote and sustain
vegetation.

The gathering of the crop should be a matter of discipline. Where it is
done carelessly, there will very soon be none to gather, for the
swelling of a few seeds in neglected pods will cause the plants to
cease bearing. Therefore all the Beans should be gathered when of a
proper size, whether they are wanted or not; this is the only way to
insure a long-continued supply of good quality both as to colour and
tenderness.

Autumn, Winter and Spring Supplies.—By successional sowings under glass
a continuous supply of Beans may be obtained through autumn, winter,
and spring. The earliest sowings should be made at fortnightly
intervals, from mid-July to mid-September, in cold frames filled with
well-manured soil. Put in the seeds two inches deep and six inches
apart, in rows one foot apart. Water copiously during the hot months
and give protection when the nights become cold. After mid-September
crops of dwarf-growing varieties should be raised in heated pits, or in
pots placed in a warm temperature. In pits the beds should be one foot
deep, the drills one foot apart, and the plants six inches asunder in
the rows. When pots are used the ten-inch size will be found most
convenient. Only three-parts fill the pots with a good compost, and
insure perfect drainage. Place eight or nine beans one and a half
inches deep in each pot, eventually reducing the number of plants to
five. As the plants progress soil may be added to within an inch and a
half of the rims. Air-giving and watering will need careful management,
for the most robust growth possible is required, but there must be no
chill, and any excess of either moisture or dryness will be immediately
injurious. When a few pods are formed feed the plants with alternate
applications of soot water and liquid manure, commencing with highly
diluted doses. Thoroughly syringe the plants twice daily to combat Red
Spider. At night a temperature of from 55° to 60° must be maintained.
In mid-February sowings may be made in frames in which six inches of
fertile soil has been placed over a good layer of litter or leaves.
From these sowings heavy crops may be secured in spring and early
summer before the outdoor supplies are ready.

Flageolets is the name given to the seeds of certain types of Dwarf and
Climbing Beans when used in a state intermediate between the green pods
(_Haricots verts_) and the fully ripe seeds (_Haricots secs_), and they
are strongly to be recommended for culinary purposes. The use of Bean
seeds as _Flageolets_, although so little known in this country, is
very largely practised abroad, and in the vegetable markets of many
French towns the shelling of the beans from the semi-ripe pods by
women, in readiness for cooking in the manner of green peas, is a very
familiar sight. The seeds of almost all varieties are suitable for use
in this way, irrespective of colour, as this is not developed as would
be the case if the seeds were quite ripe.

CLIMBING FRENCH BEAN

The Climbing French Bean has all the merits of the Dwarf French Bean,
and the climbing habit not only extends the period of bearing but
results in a yield such as cannot be obtained from the most prolific
strains in the Dwarf section. Although the modern Climbing Bean is less
vigorous in growth than the ordinary Runner, the former may generally
be had in bearing before the most forward crop of Runners is ready. For
an early supply out of doors seed should be sown under glass in April,
in the manner advised for early crops of the Dwarf class. Gradually
harden off the plants and transfer to permanent quarters on the first
favourable opportunity. In the open ground successive sowings may be
made from the end of April to June. The outdoor culture of Climbing
French Beans is practically the same as for the Dwarf varieties, except
that the former are usually grown in double rows about four to five
feet apart. Allow the plants to stand finally at nine to twelve inches
each way, and support them with bushy sticks such as are used for Peas,
for Climbing Beans will run far more readily on these than on single
sticks.

The Climbing French Bean is especially useful for producing crops under
glass in spring and autumn, and the plants do well when grown in narrow
borders with the vines trained close to the roof-glass by means of wire
or string to which the growth readily clings. The general treatment may
be much the same as that recommended for the Dwarf varieties, special
care being taken with regard to watering and the giving of air. During
the autumn months atmospheric moisture must be cautiously regulated or
much of the foliage will damp off, while in spring a humid atmosphere
should be maintained and systematic watering practised. Cucumber,
Melon, and Tomato beds from which the crops have been cleared may often
be used to advantage for raising a crop of Climbing Beans, and
generally these beds are in excellent condition for the plants without
the addition of manure.

HARICOT BEAN

Although in France the term _Haricot_ is given to all types of Beans,
except those of the English Broad Bean, in this country the word
_Haricot_ is generally applied only to the dried seeds of certain Dwarf
and Climbing Beans, notably those which are white. Almost any variety,
however, may be used as _Haricots_, but the most popular are those
which produce self-coloured seeds, such as white, green, and the
various shades of brown. Seed should be sown early in May and the
plants treated as advised for French Beans. The pods should not be
removed from the plants until the seeds are thoroughly ripe. If
ripening cannot be completed in the open, pull up the plants and hang
them in a shed until the seeds are quite dry.

RUNNER BEAN

Phaseolus multiflorus

Runner beans need generous cultivation and will amply repay for the
most liberal treatment. The main point to be borne in mind is that the
plant possesses the most extensive root-system of any garden vegetable.
Deep digging and liberal manuring are therefore essential where the
production of the finest crops is aimed at. If possible the whole of
the ground to be allotted to Runners should be deeply tilled and well
manured in autumn or winter. But where this is inconvenient, trenching
must be carried out in March or early April. Remove the soil to a depth
of two feet, and the trench may be two feet wide for a double row of
Beans. Thoroughly break up the subsoil, half-fill the trench with
well-rotted manure, and restore the surface soil to within a few inches
of the level.

Time of Sowing.—It is seldom advisable to sow Runners in the open
before the month of May is fairly in, for they are less hardy than
Dwarf Beans, but as late supplies are everywhere valued it is important
to sow again in June. Of course these late crops are subject to the
caprices of autumnal weather, although they often continue in bearing
until quite late in the season. In districts where spring frosts are
destructive, and on cold soils or in very exposed situations, plants
may be raised in boxes for transferring to the open ground, as advised
for Dwarf Beans, but in the case of Runners allow a space of three
inches between the seeds.

Distances for Rows, &c.—Frequently the rows of Runner Beans are
injuriously close, and the total crop is thereby diminished. On deep,
well-prepared soils, single rows generally prove most productive, and
they should be not less than five feet apart. But where the soil is
shallow and generous preparation is not possible, and in wind-swept
positions, double rows, set nine inches apart, are more satisfactory.
Between the double rows allow a space of from six to eight feet, on
which Cauliflower, Lettuce, or other small-growing subjects may be
planted out. Two inches is the proper depth for putting in the seed,
and it is a wise policy to sow liberally and eventually to thin the
plants to a distance of from nine to twelve inches apart in the rows.

Staking.—It will always pay to give support by stakes, but where these
are not available wire netting or strands of stout string make
efficient substitutes. Immediately the plants are a few inches high,
insert the sticks on either side of the rows and tie them firmly to the
horizontal stakes placed in the fork near to the top. The means of
support should be decided upon and erected in advance of planting out
Runners which have been raised in boxes, thus avoiding any risk of
injury to the roots.

But Runners make a good return when kept low by topping, and without
any support whatever, a system adopted by many market gardeners. For
this method of culture space the plants one foot apart in single rows
set three feet apart. Pinch out the tips when the plants are eighteen
inches high and repeat the operation when a further eighteen inches of
growth has formed.

General Cultivation.—As slugs and snails are particularly partial to
the young plants, an occasional dusting of old soot, slaked lime, or
any gritty substance should be given to render the leaves unpalatable
to these pests. During drought copious watering of the rows is
essential, especially on shallow soils; spraying the plants in the
evening with soft water is also freely practised and this assists the
setting of flowers in dry weather. A mulch of decayed manure will prove
of great benefit to the plants and will prolong the period of bearing.

In some gardens Runners are grown in groups running up rods tied
together at the top, and when these groups are arranged at regular
intervals on each side of a path, the result is extremely pleasing.
This mode of culture interferes to a very trifling extent with other
crops, and the ornamental effect may be enhanced by growing varieties
which have white, red, and bicolor flowers.

Preserving the roots of Runners is sometimes recommended. We can only
say that it is a ridiculous proceeding. The utmost care is required to
keep the roots through the winter, and they are comparatively worthless
in the end. A pint of seed will give a better crop than a number of
roots that have cost great pains for their preservation.

Runner Beans for Exhibition.—Although fine specimens fit for exhibition
may frequently be gathered from the general garden crop, a little extra
attention to the cultivation of Runner Beans for show work will be well
repaid. When staged the pods must possess not only the merit of mere
size, but they should be perfect in shape and quite young. Rapid as
well as robust growth is therefore essential to success. Select the
strongest-growing plants in the rows, and for a few weeks before the
pods are wanted give alternate applications of liquid manure and clear
water. Pinch out all side growths, and limit the number of pods to two
in each cluster.

WAXPOD BEAN

Many visitors to the Continent have learned to appreciate the fine
qualities of the Waxpod Beans, sometimes known as Butter Beans, the
pods of which are usually cooked whole. There are two types, the dwarf
and the runner, for which respectively the culture usual for Dwarf
French Beans and Runner Beans will be quite suitable.

GARDEN BEET

Beta vulgaris

As a food plant the Beet scarcely obtains the attention it deserves.
There is no lack of appreciation of its beauty for purposes of
garnishing, or of its flavour as the component of a salad; but other
uses to which it is amenable for the comfort and sustenance of man are
sometimes neglected. As a simple dish to accompany cold meats the Beet
is most acceptable. Dressed with vinegar and white pepper, it is at
once appetising, nutritive, and digestible. Served as fritters, it is
by some people preferred to Mushrooms, as it then resembles them in
flavour, and is more easily digested. It makes a first-rate pickle, and
as an agent in colouring it has a recognised value, because of the
perfect wholesomeness of the rich crimson hue it imparts to any article
of food requiring it.

Frame Culture.—Where the demand for Beet exists the whole year through,
early sowings in heat are indispensable. For this method of cultivation
the Globe variety should be employed, and two sowings, the first in
February and another in March, will generally provide a good supply of
roots in advance of the outdoor crops. Sow in drills on a gentle
hot-bed and thin the plants from six to nine inches apart in the rows.
As soon as the plants are large enough, give air at every suitable
opportunity. Fresh young Beets grown in this way find far more favour
at table than those which have been stored for several months. They are
also of great service for exhibition, especially in collections of
early vegetables.

Preparation of Ground.—The cultivation of Beet is of the most simple
nature, but a certain amount of care is requisite for the production of
a handsome and profitable crop. Beet will make a fair return on any
soil that is properly prepared for it; but to grow this root to
perfection a rich light loam is necessary, free from any trace of
recent or strong manure. A rank soil, or one to which manure has been
added shortly before sowing the seed, will produce ugly roots, some
coarse with overgrowth, others forked and therefore of little value,
and others, perhaps, cankered and worthless. The soil should be well
prepared by deep digging some time before making up the seed-bed, and
it is sound practice to grow Beet on plots that have been heavily
manured in the previous year for Cauliflower, Celery, or any other crop
requiring good cultivation. If the soil from an old Melon or Cucumber
bed can be spared, it may be spread over the land and dug in, and the
piece should be broken up in good time to become mellow before the seed
is sown. Seaweed is a capital manure for Beet, especially if laid at
the bottom of the trench when preparing the ground. A moderate dressing
of salt may be added with advantage, as the Beet is a seaside plant.

Early Crops.—Where frames are not available for providing early
supplies of Beetroot, forward crops may often be obtained from the open
ground by making sowings of the Globe variety from the end of March to
mid-April, in a sheltered position. Of course, the earlier the sowing
the greater the risk of destruction by frost, and birds may take the
seedlings. A double thickness of fish netting, however, stretched over
stakes about one foot above the soil, will afford protection from the
former and prevent the depredations of the latter. Set the drills about
twelve inches apart and sow the seed one and a half to two inches deep.
Thin the plants early and allow them to stand finally at nine inches in
the rows.

Main Crop.—The most important crop is that required for salading, for
which a deep-coloured Beet of rich flavour is to be preferred, and the
aim of the cultivator should be to obtain roots of moderate size and of
perfect shape and finish. The ground having been trenched two spades
deep early in the year, may be made up into four-and-a-half-feet beds
some time in March, preparatory to sowing the seed. The main sowing
should never be made until quite the end of April or beginning of May.
For a neat crop, sow in drills one and a half to two inches deep, and
spaced from twelve to fifteen inches apart. When finally thinned the
plants should stand about nine inches apart in the rows. Hand weeding
will have to follow soon after sowing, and perhaps the hoe may be
required to supplement the hand. The thinning should be commenced as
early as possible, but it is waste of time to plant the thinnings, and
it is equally waste of time to water the crop. In fact, if the ground
is well prepared, weeding and thinning comprise the whole remainder of
the cultivation.

Some of the smaller and more delicate Beets, of a very dark colour, may
be sown in drills a foot or fifteen inches apart and thinned to six
inches distance in the drills. We have, indeed, lifted pretty crops of
the smaller Beets at four inches, but it is not prudent to crowd the
plants, as the result will be thin roots with long necks.

On stony shallow soils, where it is difficult to grow handsome long
Beets, the Globe and Intermediate varieties may be tried with the
prospect of a satisfactory result. We have in hot seasons found these
most useful on a damp clay where fine specimens of long Beet were
rarely obtainable. From this same unkind clay it is possible to secure
good crops of long Beets, by making deep holes with a dibber a foot
apart and filling these with sandy stuff from the compost yard and
sowing the seed over them. It is a tedious process, but it benefits the
land for the next crop, and the Beets pay for it in the first instance.

Late Crops.—By sowing the Globe or Turnip-rooted varieties in July,
useful roots may be obtained during the autumn and winter. Space the
drills as advised for early crops. Seed may also with advantage be
thinly sown broadcast; the young plants will thus protect one another,
and the roots may be pulled as they mature.

Lifting and Storing.—A Beet crop may be left in the ground during the
winter if aided by a covering of litter during severe frost. But it is
safer out of the ground than in it, and the proper time to lift is when
a touch of autumn frost has been experienced. Dry earth or sand, in
sufficient quantity, should be ready for the storing, and a clamp in a
sheltered corner will answer if shed room is scarce. In any case, a dry
and cool spot is required, for damp will beget mildew, and warmth will
cause growth. In cutting off the tops before storing, take care not to
cut too near the crown, or injurious bleeding will follow. On the other
hand, the long fang-like roots may be shortened without harm, for the
slight bleeding that will occur at that end will not affect more than
the half-inch or so next to the cut part. A little experience will
teach anyone that Beets must be handled with care, or the goodness will
run out of them. Many cooks bake Beets because boiling so often spoils
them; but if they are in no way cut or bruised, and are plunged into
boiling water and kept boiling for a sufficient length of time—half an
hour to two hours, according to size—there will be but a trifling
difference between boiling and baking.

The Silver, or Sea Kale, Beet is grown principally for the stalk and
the midrib of the leaf, considered by some to be equal to Asparagus. In
a rank soil, with plenty of liquid manure, the growth is quick, robust,
and the plant of good quality, without the necessity of earthing up.
Sow in April and May, thinly in drills, and allow the plants eventually
to stand at about fifteen inches apart each way. The leaves should be
pulled, not cut. As the stalks often turn black in cooking, it is
advisable to add a few drops of lemon-juice to the water in which they
are boiled, and, of course, soda should never be used. They should be
served up in the same manner as Asparagus. The remainder of the leaf is
dressed as Spinach.

BORECOLE, or KALE

Brassica oleracea acephala

The Borecoles or Kales are indispensable for the supply of winter
vegetables, and their importance becomes especially manifest when
severe frost has made general havoc in the Kitchen Garden. Then it is
seen that the hardier Borecoles are proof against the lowest
temperature experienced in these islands; and, while frost leaves the
plants unharmed, it improves the tops and side sprouts that are
required for table purposes.

As regards soil, the Borecoles are the least particular of the whole
race of Brassicas. They appear to be capable of supplying the table
with winter greens even when grown on hard rocky soil, but good loam
suits them admirably, and a strong clay, well tilled, will produce a
grand sample. Granting, then, that a good soil is better than a bad
one, we urge the sowing of seed as early as possible for insuring to
the plant a long season of growth. But early sowing should be followed
by early planting, for it is bad practice to leave the plants crowded
in the seed-bed until the summer is far advanced. This, however, is
often unavoidable, and it is well to consider in time where the plants
are to go, and when, according to averages, the ground will be vacant
to receive them. The first sowing may be made early in March, and
another in the middle of April. These two sowings will suffice for
almost all the purposes that can be imagined. A good seed-bed in an
open spot is absolutely necessary. It is usual to draw direct from the
seed-bed for planting out as opportunities occur, and this method
answers fairly well. But when large enough it is better practice to
prick out as a preparation for the final planting, because a stouter
and handsomer plant is thereby secured. If it is intended to follow the
rough and ready plan, the seed drills should be nine inches apart; but
for pricking out six inches will answer, and thus a very small bed will
provide a lot of plants. When pricked out, the plants should be six
inches apart each way, and they should go to final quarters as soon as
the leaves touch one another. On the flat, a fair distance between
Borecoles is two feet apart each way, but some vigorous kinds in good
ground will pay for another foot of space, and will yield enormous
crops when their time arrives. Transplanting is usually done in June
and July, and in many gardens Kales are planted between the rows of
second-early or maincrop Potatoes. The work should be done during
showery weather if possible, but these Brassicas have an astonishing
degree of vitality. If put out during drought very little water is
required to start them, and as the cool weather returns they will grow
with vigour. But good cultivation saves a plant from extreme
conditions; and it is an excellent practice to dig in green manure when
preparing ground for Kales, because a free summer growth is needful to
the formation of a stout productive plant.

We have suggested that two sowings may be regarded as generally
sufficient, but we are bound to take notice of the fact that the late
supplies of these vegetables are sometimes disappointing. In a mild
winter the Kales reserved for use in spring will be likely to grow when
they should stand still, and at the first break of pleasant spring
weather they will bolt, very much to the vexation of those who expected
many a basket of sprouts from them. A May sowing planted out in a cold
place may stand without bolting until spring is somewhat advanced. Kale
of the ‘Asparagus’ type, such as Sutton’s Favourite, will often prove
successful when sown as late as July.

As regards the varieties, they agree pretty nearly in constitution,
although they differ much in appearance and in the power of resisting
the excitement of spring weather. But in this section of vegetables
there are a few very interesting subjects. The Variegated and Crested
Kales are extremely ornamental and eminently useful in large places for
decorative purposes. These do not require so rich a soil as Sutton’s A1
or Curled Scotch, and they must have the fullest exposure to bring out
their peculiarities. It is found that in somewhat dry calcareous soils
these plants acquire their highest colour and most elegant proportions.
When planted by the sides of carriage drives and in other places where
their colours may be suitably displayed, it is a good plan to cut off
the heads soon after the turn of the year, as this promotes the
production of side shoots of the most beautiful fresh colours. A crop
of Kale may be advantageously followed by Celery.

BROCCOLI

Brassica oleracea botrytis asparagoides

The great importance of this crop is indicated by the long list of
varieties and the still longer list of synonyms. As a vegetable it
needs no praise, and our sole business will be to treat of the
cultivation.

Of necessity we begin with generalities. Any good soil will grow
Broccoli, but it is a strong-land plant, and a well-tilled clay should
yield first-class crops. But there are so many kinds coming into use at
various seasons, that the cultivation may be regarded as a somewhat
complex subject. We will therefore premise that the best must be made
of the soil at command, whatever it may be. The Cornish growers owe
their success in great part to their climate, which carries their crops
through the winter unhurt; but they grow Broccoli only on rich soil,
and keep it in good heart by means of seaweed and other fertilisers.
All the details of Broccoli culture require a liberal spirit and
careful attention, and the value of a well-grown crop justifies
first-class treatment. On the other hand, a badly-grown crop will not
pay rent for the space it covers, to say nothing of the labour that has
been devoted to it.

The Seed-bed.—Broccoli should always be sown on good seed-beds and be
planted out; the seed-beds should be narrow, say three or three and a
half feet wide, and the seed must be sown in drills half an inch deep
at the utmost—less if possible; and where sparrows haunt the garden it
will be well to cover the beds with netting, or protect the rows with
wire pea guards. A quick way of protecting all round seeds against
small birds is to put a little red lead in a saucer, then lightly
sprinkle the seed with water and shake it about in the red lead. Not a
bird or mouse will touch seed so treated.

The seed-beds must be tended with scrupulous care to keep down weeds
and avert other dangers. It is of great importance to secure a robust
plant, short, full of colour, and free from club at the root. Now,
cleanliness is in itself a safeguard. It promotes a short sturdy
growth, because where there are no weeds or other rubbish the young
plant has ample light and air. Early thinning and planting is another
important matter. If the land is not ready for planting, thin the
seed-bed and prick out the seedlings. A good crop of Broccoli is worth
any amount of trouble, although trouble ought to be an unknown word in
the dictionary of a gardener.

Manuring Ground.—As a rule, Broccoli should be planted in fresh ground,
and, in mild districts, if the soil is in some degree rank with green
manure the crop will be none the worse for it. But rank manure is not
needful; a deep, well-dug, sweet loam will produce a healthy growth and
neat handsome heads. However, it is proper to remark, that if any rank
manure is in the way, or if the ground is poor and wants it, the
Broccoli will take to it kindly, and all the rankness will be gone long
before they produce their creamy heads. Still, it must be clearly
understood that the more generous the treatment, the more succulent
will be the growth, and in cold climates a succulent condition may
endanger the crop when hard weather sets in.

Method of Planting.—Broccoli follows well upon Peas, early Potatoes,
early French Beans, and Strawberries that are dug in when gathered from
for the last time. But it does not follow well upon Cabbage, Turnip, or
Cauliflower; if Broccoli must follow any of these, dig deeply, manure
heavily, and in planting, dust a little freshly slaked lime in the
holes. The times of planting will depend on the state of the plants and
the proper season of their heading in. But everywhere and always the
plants should be got out of the seed-bed into their permanent quarters
as soon as possible, for the longer they stay in the seed-bed the more
likely are they to become drawn above and clubbed below. As regards
distances, too, the soil, the variety, and the season must be
considered. For all sorts the distances range from two to two and a
half feet; and for most of the medium-sized sorts that have to stand
out through the winter for use in spring, a distance of eighteen to
twenty-four inches is usually enough, because if they are rather close
they protect one another. But with strong sorts in strong soils and
kind climates, two feet and a half every way is none too much even for
safe wintering. Plant firmly, water if needful, and do not stint it;
but, if possible, plant in showery weather, and give no water at all.
Watering may save the crop, but the finest pieces of Broccoli are those
that are secured without any watering whatever.

Autumn Broccoli.—To grow Autumn Broccoli profitably, sow in February,
March, and April, the early sowings in a frame to insure vigorous
growth, and the later sowings in the open ground. Plant out as soon as
possible in fresh land that has been deeply tilled. If the soil is
poor, draw deep drills, fill them with fat manure, and plant by hand,
taking care to press round each root crumbs from the surface soil. This
will give them a good start, and they will take care of themselves
afterwards. When they show signs of heading in, run in shallow drills
of Prickly Spinach between them, and as this comes up the Broccoli will
be drawn, leaving the Spinach a fair chance of making a good stolen
crop, needing no special preparation whatever. Another sowing of
Broccoli may be made in May, but the early sowings, if a little nursed
in the first instance, will pay best, because early heads are scarce,
whereas late Broccoli are plentiful.

Winter Broccoli should not be sown before the end of March and thence
to the end of April. As a rule, the April sowing will make the best
crop, although much depends on season, soil, and climate. Begin to
plant out early, and continue planting until a sufficient breadth of
ground is covered. Within reasonable limits it will be found that the
time of planting does not much affect the date when the heads turn in,
and only in a moderate degree influences the size of them.

Spring Broccoli are capricious, no matter what the world may say. It
will occasionally happen that sorts planted for cutting late in spring
will turn in earlier than they are wanted, and the sun rather than the
seedsman must be blamed for their precocity. In average seasons the
late sorts turn in late; but the Broccoli is a sensitive plant, and
unseasonable warmth results in premature development. Sow the Spring
Broccoli in April and May, the April sowing being the more important.
It will not do, however, to follow a strict rule save to this effect,
that early and late sowings are the least likely to succeed, while
mid-season sowings—say from the middle of April to the middle of
May—will, as a rule, make the best crops. Where there is a constant
demand for Broccoli in the early months of the year, two or three small
sowings will be better than one large sowing.

Summer Broccoli are useful when Peas are late, and they are always over
in time to make way for the glut of the Pea crop. Late Queen may, in
average seasons, be cut at the end of May and sometimes in June, if
sown about the middle of May in the previous year, and carefully
managed. This excellent variety can, as a rule, be relied on, both to
withstand a severe winter in an exposed situation and to keep up the
supplies of first-class vegetables until the first crop of Cauliflower
is ready, and Peas are coming in freely. Generally speaking, smallish
heads, neat in shape and pure in colour, are preferred. They are the
most profitable as a crop and the most acceptable for the table. An
open, breezy place should be selected for a plantation of late
Broccoli, the land well drained, and it need not be made particularly
rich with manure. But good land is required, with plenty of light and
air to promote a dwarf sturdy growth and late turning in.

Protection in Winter.—Various plans are adopted for the protection of
Broccoli during winter. Much is to be said in favour of leaving them to
the risk of all events, for certain it is that finer heads are obtained
from undisturbed plants than by any interference with them, provided
they escape the assaults of winter frost. But in such a matter it is
wise to be guided by the light of experience. In cold districts, and on
wet soils where Broccoli do not winter well, heeling over may be
adopted. There are several ways of accomplishing the task, the most
successful method being managed thus. Open a trench at the northern
end, and gently push over each plant in the first row so that the heads
incline to the north. Put a little mould over each stem to settle it,
but do not earth it up any more than is needful to render it secure.
Push over the next row, and the next, and so on, finishing off between
them neatly and leaving the plants nearly as they were before, save
that they now all look northward, and their sloping stems are a little
deeper in the earth than they were in the first instance. This should
be done during fine weather in November, and if the plants flag a
little they should have one good watering at the roots. In the course
of about ten days it will be scarcely perceptible that they have been
operated on. They may be lifted and replanted with their heads to the
north, but this is apt to check them too much. In exceptionally cold
seasons cover the plot with straw or bracken, but this must be removed
in wet weather. When it is seen that the heads are forming and hard
weather is apprehended, some growers take them up with good balls of
earth and plant them in a frame, or even pack them neatly in a cellar,
and the heads finish fairly well, but not so well as undisturbed
plants. It is impossible, however, to cut good heads in a very severe
winter without some such protective measures. In many gardens glass is
employed for protecting Winter Broccoli, in which case the plantations
are so shaped that the frames will be easily adapted to them without
any disturbance of the plants whatever. There must be allowed a good
space between the beds to be covered, and the plants must be fifteen to
eighteen inches apart, with the object of protecting the largest number
by means of a given stock of frames.

Sprouting Broccoli, both white and purple, are invaluable to supply a
large bulk of a most acceptable vegetable in winter and early spring.
Sow in April and the plants may be treated in the same way as other
hardy winter greens. They should have the most liberal culture
possible, for which they will not fail to make an ample return. The
Purple Sprouting Broccoli is a favourite vegetable in the kitchen,
because of its freedom from the attacks of all kinds of vermin.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Brassica oleracea bullata gemmifera

Brussels Sprouts are everywhere regarded as the finest autumnal
vegetable of the strictly green class. They are, however, often very
poorly grown, because the first principle of success—a long growing
season—is not recognised. It is in the power of the cultivator to
secure this by sowing seed at the end of February, or early in March,
on a bed of light rich soil made in a frame, and from the frame the
plants should be pricked out into an open bed of similar light fresh
soil as soon as they have made half a dozen leaves. From this bed they
should be transferred to their permanent quarters before they crowd one
another, the object being at each stage to obtain free growth with a
sturdy habit, for mere length of stem is no advantage; it is a
disadvantage when the plant is deficient of corresponding substance.
The ground should be made quite firm, in order to encourage robust
growth which in turn will produce shapely solid buttons. This crop is
often grown on Potato land, the plants being put out between the rows
in the course of the summer. It is better practice, however, to plant
Kales or Broccoli in Potato ground, because of the comparative slowness
of their growth, and to put the Sprouts on an open plot freely dressed
with somewhat fresh manure. If a first-class strain, such as Sutton’s
Exhibition, is grown, it will not only pay for this little extra care,
but will pay also for plenty of room, say two and a half feet apart
every way at the least; and one lot, made up of the strongest plants
drawn separately, may be in rows three feet apart, and the plants two
and a half feet asunder. For the compact-growing varieties two feet
apart each way will generally suffice. Maintain a good tilth by the
frequent use of the hoe during summer, and as autumn approaches
regularly remove all decaying leaves. Those who have been accustomed to
treat Sprouts and Kales on one uniform rough plan will be surprised at
the result of the routine we now recommend. The plants will button from
the ground line to the top, and the buttons will set so closely that,
once taken off, it will be impossible to replace them. Moderate-sized,
spherical, close, grass-green Sprouts are everywhere esteemed, and
there is nothing in the season more attractive in the markets.

Crops treated as advised will give early supplies of the very finest
Sprouts. For successional crops it will be sufficient to sow in the
open ground in the latter part of March, or early in April, and plant
out in the usual manner; in other words, to treat in the commonplace
way of the ordinary run of Borecoles. With a good season and in
suitable ground there will be an average crop, which will probably hold
out far into the winter. It is important to gather the crop
systematically. The Sprouts are perfect when round and close, with not
a leaf unfolded. They can be snapped off rapidly, and where the
quantity is considerable they should be sorted into sizes. The season
of use will be greatly prolonged, and the tendency of the Sprouts to
burst be lessened, if the head is cut last of all.

CABBAGE

Brassica oleracea capitata

The Cabbage is a great subject, and competes with the Potato for
pre-eminence in the cottage garden, in the market garden, and on the
farm, sometimes with such success as to prove the better paying crop of
the two. It may be said in a general way that a Cabbage may be grown
almost anywhere and anyhow; that it will thrive on any soil, and that
the seed may be sown any day in the year. All this is nearly possible,
and proves that we have a wonderful plant to deal with; but it is too
good a friend of man to be treated, even in a book, in an off-hand
manner. The Cabbage may be called a lime plant, and a clay plant; but,
like almost every other plant that is worth growing, a deep well-tilled
loam will suit it better than any other soil under the sun. It has one
persistent plague only. Not the Cabbage butterfly; for although that is
occasionally a troublesome scourge, it is not persistent, and may be
almost invisible for years together. Nor is it the aphis, although in a
hot dry season that pest is a fell destroyer of the crop. The great
plague is club or anbury, for which there is no direct remedy or
preventive known. But indirectly the foe may be fought successfully.
The crop should be moved about, and wherever Cabbage has been grown,
whether in a mere seed-bed or planted out, it should be grown no more
until the ground has been well tilled and put to other uses for one
year at least, and better if for two or three years. There are happy
lands whereon club has never been seen, and the way to keep these clear
of the pest is to practise deep digging, liberal manuring, and changing
the crops to different ground as much as possible. A mild outbreak of
club may generally be met by first removing the warts from the young
plants, and then dipping them in a puddle made of soot, lime, and clay.
But when it appears badly amongst the forward plants, their growth is
arrested, the plot becomes offensive, and the only course left is to
draw the bad plants, burn them, and give up Cabbage growing on those
quarters for several years. The question as to why the roots of
brassicaceous plants are subject to this scourge on some soils, while
plants from the same seed-bed remain healthy when transferred to
different land, is deeply interesting, and the subject is discussed
later on in the chapter on ‘The Fungus Pests of certain Garden Plants.’
Here it is sufficient to say that the presence of the disease is
generally an indication that the soil is deficient in lime. A dressing
at the rate of from 14 to 28 or even 56 pounds per square pole may be
necessary to restore healthy conditions. The outlay will not be wasted,
for lime is not merely a preventive, it has often an almost magical
influence on the fertility of land.

For general purposes Cabbages may be classified as early and late. The
early kinds are extremely valuable for their earliness, but only a
sufficient quantity should be grown, because, as compared with
mid-season and late sorts, they are less profitable. In the scheme of
cropping it may be reckoned that a paying crop of Cabbage will occupy
the ground through a whole year; for although this may not be an exact
statement, the growing time will be pretty well gone before the ground
is clear. After Cabbage, none of the Brassica tribe should be put on
the land, and, if possible, the crop to follow should be one requiring
less of sulphur and alkalies, for of these the Cabbage is a great
consumer, hence the need for abundant manuring in preparation for it.
The presence of sulphur explains the offensiveness of the exhalations
from Cabbage when in a state of decay.

Spring-sown Cabbage for Summer and Autumn use.—To insure the best
succession of Cabbage it will be necessary to recognise four distinct
sowings, any of which, save the autumnal sowing, may be omitted. Begin
with a sowing of the earliest kinds in the month of February. For this,
pans or boxes must be used, and the seed should be started in a pit or
frame, or in a cool greenhouse. When forward enough, prick out in a bed
of light rich soil in a cold frame, and give plenty of air. Before the
seedlings become crowded harden them off and plant out, taking care to
lift them tenderly with earth attached to their roots to minimise the
check. These will heart quickly and be valued as summer Cabbages. The
second sowing is to be made in the last week of March, and to consist
of early kinds, including a few of the best type of Coleworts. As these
advance to a planting size, they may be put out a few at a time as
plots become vacant, and they will be useful in various ways from July
to November or later. A third sowing may be made in the first or second
week of May of small sorts and Coleworts; and these again may be
planted out as opportunities occur, both in vacant plots for hearting
late in the year, and as stolen crops in odd places to draw while
young. The second and third sowings need not be pricked out from the
seed-bed, but may be taken direct therefrom to the places where they
are to finish their course.

In planting out, the spacing must be regulated according to the size of
the variety grown. If put out in beds, the plants may be placed from
one to two feet apart, and the rows one and a half to two feet asunder.
All planting should be done in showery weather if possible, or with a
falling barometer. It may not always be convenient to wait for rain,
and happily it is a peculiarity of Brassicas, and of Cabbage in
particular, that the plants will endure, after removal, heat and
drought for some time with but little harm, and again grow freely after
rain has fallen. But good cultivation has in view the prevention of any
such check. At the best it is a serious loss of time in the brief
growing season. Therefore in droughty weather it will be advisable to
draw shallow furrows and water these a day in advance of the planting,
and if labour and stuff can be found it will be well to lay in the
furrows a sprinkling of short mulchy manure to follow instantly upon
the watering; then plant with the dibber, and the work is done. If the
mulch cannot be afforded, water must be given, and to water the furrows
in advance is better than watering after the planting, as a few
observations will effectually prove. If drought continues, water should
be given again and again. The trouble must be counted as nothing
compared with the certain loss of time while the plant stands still, to
become, perhaps, infested with blue aphis, and utterly ruined. As a
matter of fact, a little water may be made to go a long way, and every
drop judiciously administered will more than repay its cost. The use of
the hoe will greatly help the growth, and a little earth may be drawn
towards the stems, not to the extent of ‘moulding-up,’ for that is
injurious, but to ‘firm’ the plants in some degree against the gales
that are to be expected as the days decline.

Autumn-sown Cabbage for Spring and Summer use.—The fourth, or autumn,
sowing is by far the most important of the year, and the exact time
when seed should be put in deserves careful consideration. A strong
plant is wanted before winter, but the growth must not be so far
advanced as to stand in peril from severe and prolonged frost. There is
also the risk that plants which are too forward may bolt when spring
arrives. In some districts it is the practice to sow in July, and to
those who find the results entirely satisfactory we have nothing to
say. Our own experiments have convinced us that, for the southern
counties, August is preferable, and it is wise to make two sowings in
that month, the first quite early and the second about a fortnight
later. Here it is necessary to observe that the selection of suitable
varieties is of even greater consequence than the date of sowing. A
considerable number of the Cabbages which possess a recognised value
for spring sowing are comparatively useless when sown in August.
Success depends on the capability of the plant to form a heart when the
winter is past instead of starting a seed-stem, and this reduces the
choice to very narrow limits. Among the few Cabbages which are
specially adapted for August sowing, Sutton’s Harbinger, April, Flower
of Spring, Favourite, and Imperial may be favourably mentioned, and
even in small gardens at least two varieties should be sown. Where
Spring Cabbages manifest an unusual tendency to bolt, sowing late in
August, followed by late planting, will generally prove a remedy,
always assuming that suitable varieties have been sown.

The planting of autumn-sown Cabbages should be on well-made ground,
following Peas, Beans, or Potatoes, and as much manure should be dug in
as can be spared, for Cabbage will take all it can get in the way of
nourishment. If the entire crop is to be left for hearting, a minimum
of fifteen inches each way will be a safe distance for the smallest
varieties. Supposing every alternate plant is to be drawn young for
consumption as Coleworts, a foot apart will suffice, but in this case
the surplus plants must be cleared off by the time spring growth
commences. This procedure will leave a crop for hearting two feet
apart, and when the heads are cut the stumps will yield a supply of
Sprouts. As these Sprouts appear when vegetables are none too
plentiful, they are welcome in many households, and make a really
delicate dish of greens.

By sowing quick-growing varieties of Cabbage in drills during July and
August, and thinning the plants early, thus avoiding the check of
transplanting, heads may often be had fit for cutting in October and
November.

The Red Cabbage is grown for pickling and also for stewing, being in
demand at many tables as an accompaniment to roasted partridges. The
plant requires the best ground that can be provided for it, with double
digging and plenty of manure. Two sowings may be made, the first in
April for a supply in autumn for cooking, and the second in August for
a crop to stand the winter and to supply large heads for pickling.

SAVOY CABBAGE

Brassica oleracea bullata

The Savoy Cabbage is directly related to Brussels Sprouts, though
differing immensely in appearance. It is of great value for the bulk of
food it produces, as well as for its quality as a table vegetable
during the autumn and winter. In all the essential points the Savoy may
be grown in the same way as any other Cabbage, but it is the general
practice to sow the seed in spring only, the time being determined by
requirements. For an early supply, sow in February in a frame, and in
an open bed in March, April, and May for succession. This vegetable
needs a rich deep soil to produce fine heads, but it will pay better on
poor soil than most other kinds of Cabbage, more especially if the
smaller sorts are selected. Savoys are not profitable in the form of
Collards; hence it is advisable to plant in the first instance at the
proper distances, say twelve inches for the small sorts, eighteen for
those of medium growth, and twenty to twenty-four where the ground is
strong and large heads are required. In private gardens the smaller
kinds are much the best, but the market grower must give preference to
those that make large, showy heads.

CAPSICUM and CHILI

Capsicum annuum, C. baccatum

Capsicums and Chilis are so interesting and ornamental that it is
surprising they are grown in comparatively few gardens. Sometimes there
is reason to lament that Cayenne pepper is coloured with drugs, but the
remedy is within reach of those who find the culture of Capsicums easy,
and to compound the pepper is not a difficult task. The large-fruited
varieties may also be prepared in various ways for the table, if
gathered while quite young and before the fruits change colour.

The cultivation of Capsicums is a fairly simple matter. The best course
of procedure is to sow seed thinly in February or March in pots or pans
of fine soil placed on a gentle hot-bed or in a house where the
temperature is maintained at about 55°. Pot on the young plants as they
develop and keep them growing without a check. Spray twice daily, for
Capsicums require atmospheric moisture and the Red Spider is partial to
the plant. Nice specimens may be grown in pots five to eight inches in
diameter, beyond which it is not desirable to go, and as the summer
advances these may be taken to the conservatory. Plants intended for
fruiting in warm positions out of doors should be hardened off in
readiness for transfer at the end of May. In gardens favourably
situated, as are many in the South of England, it is sufficient to sow
a pinch of seed on an open border in the middle of May, and put a hand
glass over the spot. The plants from this sowing may be transferred to
any sunny position, and will yield an abundant crop of peppers.

The Bird Pepper or Chili is grown in precisely the same way as advised
for Capsicum.

To prepare the pods for pepper, put the required number into a wire
basket, and consign them to a mild oven for about twelve hours. They
are not to be cooked, but desiccated, and in most cases an ordinary
oven, with the door kept open to prevent the heat rising too high, will
answer perfectly. Being thus prepared, the next proceeding is to pound
them in a mortar with one-fourth their weight of salt, which also
should be dried in the oven, and used while hot. When finely pounded,
bottle securely, and there will be a perfect sample of Cayenne pepper
without any poisonous colouring. One hundred Chilis will make about two
ounces of pepper, which will be sufficient in most houses for one
year’s supply. The large ornamental Capsicums may be put on strings,
and hung up in a dry store-room, for use as required, to flavour soups,
make Chili vinegar, Cayenne essence, &c. The last-named condiment is
prepared by steeping Capsicums in pure spirits of wine. A few drops of
the essence may be used in any soup, or indeed wherever the flavour of
Cayenne pepper is required.

CARDOON

Cynara Cardunculus

This plant is nearly related to the Globe Artichoke, and it makes a
stately appearance when allowed to flower. Although the Cardoon is not
widely cultivated in this country, it is found in some of our best
gardens, and is undoubtedly a wholesome esculent from which a skilful
cook will present an excellent dish. The stalks of the inner leaves are
stewed, and are also used in soups, as well as for salads, during
autumn and winter. The flowers, after being dried, possess the property
of coagulating milk, for which purpose they are used in France.

In a retentive soil Cardoons should be grown on the flat, but the plant
is a tolerably thirsty subject, and must have sufficient water. Hence
on very dry soils it may be necessary to put it in trenches after the
manner of Celery, and then it will obtain the full benefit of all the
water that may be administered. In any case the soil must be rich and
well pulverised if a satisfactory growth is to be obtained.

Towards the end of April rows are marked out three or four feet apart,
and groups of seed sown at intervals of eighteen inches in the rows.
The plants are thinned to one at each station, and in due time secured
to stakes. Full growth is attained in August, when blanching is
commenced by gathering the leaves together, wrapping them round with
bands of hay, and earthing up. It requires from eight to ten weeks to
accomplish the object fully. The French method is quicker. Seed is sown
in pots under glass, and in May the plants are put out three feet
apart. When fully grown the Cardoons are firmly secured to stakes by
three small straw bands. A covering of straw, three inches thick, is
thatched round every plant from bottom to top, and each top is tied and
turned over like a nightcap. A little soil is then drawn to the foot,
but earthing up is needless. In about a month blanching is completed.

CARROT

Daucus Carota

The Carrot is a somewhat fastidious root, for although it is grown in
every garden, it is not everywhere produced in the best style possible.
The handsome long roots that are seen in the leading markets are the
growth of deep sandy soils well tilled. On heavy lumpy land long clean
roots cannot be secured by any kind of tillage. But for these
unsuitable soils there are Sutton’s Early Gem, the Champion Horn, and
Intermediate, which require no great depth of earth; while for deep
loams the New Red Intermediate answers admirably.

Forcing.—Carrots are forced in frames on very gentle hot-beds. They
cannot be well grown in houses, and they must be grown slowly to be
palatable. It is usual to begin in November, and to sow down a bed
every three or four weeks until February. A lasting hot-bed is of the
first importance, and it is therefore necessary to have a good supply
of stable manure and leaves. The material should be thoroughly mixed
and allowed to ferment for a few days. Then turn the heap again, and a
few days later the bed may be made up. In order to conserve the heat
the material will need to be three to four feet deep, and if a box
frame is used the bed should be at least two feet wider than the frame.
Build up the material in even, well-consolidated layers, to prevent
unequal and undue sinking, and make the corners of the bed perfectly
sound. Put on the bed about one foot depth of fine, rich soil; if there
is any difficulty about this, eight inches must suffice, but twelve is
to be preferred. As the season advances less fermenting material will
be needed, and a simple but effective hot-bed may be made by digging
out a hole of the required size and filling it with the manure. The
latter will in due time sink, when the soil may be added and the frame
placed in position. The bed should always be near the glass, and a
great point is gained if the crop can be carried through without once
giving water, for watering tends to damage the shape of the roots. No
seed should be sown until the temperature has declined to 80°. Sow
broadcast, cover with siftings just deep enough to hide the seed, and
close the frame. If after an interval the heat rises above 70°, give
air to keep it down to that figure or to 65°. It will probably decline
to 60° by the time the plant appears, but if the bed is a good one it
will stand at that figure long enough to make the crop. Thin betimes to
two or three inches, give air at every opportunity, let the plant have
all the light possible, and cover up when hard weather is expected.
Should the heat go down too soon, linings must be used to finish the
crop. Radishes and other small things can be grown on the same bed. In
cold frames seed may be sown in February.

Warm Borders.—In March the first sowings on warm borders in the open
garden may be made. These may need the shelter of mats or old lights
until the plant has made a good start, but it is not often the plant
suffers in any serious degree from spring frosts, as the seed will not
germinate until the soil acquires a safe temperature. All the early
crops of Carrot can be grown on a prepared soil, or a light sandy loam,
free from recent manure. The drills may be spaced from six to nine
inches apart.

For the main crops double digging should be practised, and if the
staple is poor a dressing of half-rotten dung may be put in with the
bottom spit. But a general manuring as for a surface-rooting crop is
not to be thought of, the sure effect being to cause the roots to fork
and fang most injuriously. It is sound practice to select for Carrots a
deep soil that was heavily manured the year before, and to prepare this
by double digging without manure in the autumn or winter, so as to have
the ground well pulverised by the time the seed is sown. Then dig it
over one spit deep, break the lumps, and make seed-beds four feet wide.
Sow in April and onwards in drills, mixing the seed with dry earth, the
distance between rows to be eight to twelve inches according to the
sort; cover the seed with a sprinkling of fine earth and finish the bed
neatly. As soon as possible thin the crop, but not to the full distance
in the first instance. The final spacing for main crops may be from six
to nine inches, determined by the variety. By a little management it
will be an easy matter during showery weather to draw delicate young
Carrots for the final thinning, and these will admirably succeed the
latest of the sowings in frames and warm borders.

Late Crops.—Sowings of early varieties made in July will give delicate
little roots during the autumn and winter. The rows may be placed nine
inches apart, and it is essential to thin the plants early to about
three inches apart in the rows. In the event of very severe weather
protect with dry litter. For providing young Carrots throughout the
winter it is also an excellent plan to broadcast seed thinly. When
grown in this way the plants afford each other protection, and the
roots may be drawn immediately they are large enough.

In July the culture of the smaller sorts may also be undertaken in
frames, but hot-beds may be dispensed with, and lights will not be
wanted until there is a crop needing protection, when the lights may be
put on, or the frames may be covered with shutters or mats.

Storing.—Before autumn frosts set in the main crop should be lifted and
stored in dry earth or sand, the tops being removed and the earth
rubbed off, but without any attempt to clean them thoroughly until they
are wanted for use.

Carrots for Exhibition.—It will be found well worth while to give a
little extra attention to the preparation of the ground when growing
Carrots for exhibition. As in the case of Beet and Parsnip, holes
should be bored to the requisite depth and about one foot apart in the
rows. Where the soil is at all unfavourable to the growth of clean
symmetrical roots the adoption of this practice will be essential to
success. Any light soil of good quality will be suitable for filling
the holes. Well firm the material in and sow about half a dozen seeds
at a station, eventually thinning out to one plant at each. The
tendency of Carrots to become green at the tops in the later stages of
growth, thus spoiling them for show work, may be prevented by lightly
covering the protruding portion of the root with sifted fine earth.

Destructive Enemies.—The Carrot maggot and the wire-worm are
destructive enemies of this crop. In a later chapter on ‘The Pests of
Garden Plants,’ both these foes are referred to. Here it is only
necessary to say that sound judgment as to the choice of ground, deep
digging, and the preparation of the beds in good time, are the
preventives of these as of many other garden plagues. It is often
observed that main crops sown early in April suffer more than those
sown late, and the lesson is plain. It has also been noticed that where
the crops have suffered most severely the land was made ready in haste,
and the wild birds had no time to purge it of the insects which they
daily seek for food.

CAULIFLOWER

Brassica oleracea botrytis cauliflora

This fine vegetable is managed in much the same way as Broccoli, and it
requires similar conditions. But it is less hardy in constitution, more
elegant in appearance, more delicate on the table, and needs greater
care in cultivation to insure satisfactory results. As regards soil,
the Cauliflower thrives best on very rich ground of medium texture. It
will also do well on light land, if heavily manured, and quick growth
is promoted by abundant watering. In Holland, Cauliflowers are grown in
sand with water at the depth of a foot only below the surface, and the
ground is prepared by liberal dressings of cow-manure, which, with the
moisture rising from below, promotes a quick growth and a fine quality.
In any case, good cultivation is necessary or the crop will be
worthless; and whatever may be the nature of the soil, it must be well
broken up and liberally manured.

In gardens where Cauliflower are in great demand, an unbroken supply of
heads from May to November may be obtained by selecting suitable
varieties and with careful management of the crop. But in arranging for
a succession it should be borne in mind that some varieties are
specially adapted for producing heads in spring and summer, while
others are only suitable for use in late summer and autumn.

For Spring and Early Summer use.—To have Cauliflower in perfection in
spring and early summer, seed should be sown in autumn. The exact time
is a question of climate. In the northern counties the middle of August
is none too early, but for the south seed may be got in during August
and September, according to local conditions. The most satisfactory
course is to sow in boxes, placed in a cool greenhouse or a cold frame,
or even in a sheltered spot out of doors. For these sowings it is
desirable to use poor soil of a calcareous nature, as at this period of
the year the seedlings are liable to damp off in rich earth. From the
commencement every endeavour must be made to keep the growth sturdy and
to avoid a check of any kind. When the plants have made some progress,
prick them off three inches apart each way into frames for the winter.
No elaborate appliances are necessary. A suitable frame may be easily
constructed by erecting wooden sides around a prepared bed of soil,
over which lights, window frames, or even a canvas covering may be
placed. Brick pits, or frames made with turf walls, will also answer
well. The soil should not be rich, or undesirable fleshy growth will
result, especially in a mild winter. It is important to ventilate
freely at all times, except during severe weather when the structures
should have the protection of mats or straw, and excessive moisture
must be guarded against. As soon as conditions are favourable in
February or March, transfer the plants to open quarters on the best
land at command, and give them every possible care. For these
early-maturing varieties a space of eighteen inches apart each way will
generally suffice. With liberal treatment, vigorous healthy growth
should be made and heads of the finest quality be ready for table from
May onwards.

As we have already said, the best results with early Cauliflower are
obtained from an autumn sowing, but there are many growers who prefer
to sow in January or February. At this season the seed should be
started in pans or boxes placed in a house just sufficiently heated to
exclude frost. Prick out the plants early, in a frame or on a protected
border made up with light rich soil, and when strong enough plant out
on good ground. Spring sowings put out on poor land, or in dry seasons,
are sometimes disappointing, because the heads are too small to please
the majority of growers. Where, however, the soil is rich and the
district suitable there is this advantage in quick cultivation, that
while time is shortened and the worry of wintering is avoided, the crop
is safer against buttoning and bolting, which will occasionally occur
if the plants become too forward under glass and receive a check when
planted out.

In well-prepared sheltered ground seed may also be sown in March and
April, from which the plants should be pricked out once before being
transferred to permanent positions. Occasional hoeing between the
plants and heavy watering in dry weather will materially tend to their
well-doing, the object being to maintain growth from the first without
a check. If the plants turn in during very hot weather, snap one of the
inner leaves without breaking it off, and bend it over to protect the
head.

For use in Late Summer and Autumn.—Seed may be sown in April or very
early in May, and where only one sowing is made the first week of April
should be selected. A fine seed-bed in a sheltered spot is desirable,
and as soon as the seedlings are large enough they should be pricked
out, three inches or so apart. Shift to final quarters while in a
smallish state. If the plants are allowed to become somewhat large in
the seed-bed they are liable to ‘button,’ which means that small,
worthless heads will be produced as the result of an untimely check.
The distances between the plants may vary from one and a half to two
feet or more, and between the rows from two to two and a half feet,
according to the size of the variety. If put out on good ground, the
crop will almost take care of itself, but should the plants need water
it must be copiously given.

Cutting and Preserving.—The management of the crop has been treated so
far as to growth, but we must now say a word about its appropriation.
The two points for practical consideration are, how to economise a
glut, and how to avoid destruction by frost. Cauliflowers should be cut
at daybreak, or as soon after as possible, and be taken from the ground
with the dew upon them. If cut after the dew has evaporated, the heads
will be inferior by several degrees as compared with those cut at the
dawn of the day. When the heads appear at too rapid a rate for
immediate consumption, draw the plants, allowing the earth to remain
attached to the roots, and suspend them head downwards in a cool, dark,
dry place, and every evening give them a light shower of water from a
syringe. The deterioration will be but trifling, and the gain may be
considerable, but if left to battle with a burning sun the Cauliflowers
will certainly be the worse for it. After being kept in this way for a
week, they will still be good, although, like other preserved
vegetables, they will not be so good as those freshly cut and in their
prime. It often happens that frost occurs before the crop is finished.
A similar plan of preserving those that are turning in may be adopted,
but it is better to bury them in sand in a shed or under a wall, and,
if kept dry, they may remain sound for a month or more.

Cauliflower for Exhibition.—On the exhibition stage few vegetables win
greater admiration than well-grown heads of Cauliflower. Indeed,
Cauliflower and Broccoli, in their respective seasons, are
indispensable items in the composition of any first-class collection.
By closely following the cultural directions contained in the foregoing
pages no difficulty should be experienced in obtaining heads of the
finest texture and spotless purity during many months of the year. The
degree of success achieved is generally in proportion to the amount of
attention devoted to minor details. Select the most robust plants and
treat them generously. As soon as the heads are formed, examine them
frequently to prevent disfiguration by vermin. The best period of the
day for cutting has already been discussed. Do not allow the heads to
stand a day longer than is necessary, and if not wanted immediately the
plants should be lifted and preserved in the manner described in the
preceding paragraph.

CELERY

Apium graveolens

Celery is everywhere esteemed, not only as a salad, but as a wholesome
and delicious vegetable. The crop requires the very best of
cultivation, and care should be taken not to push the growth too far,
for the gigantic Celery occasionally seen at Shows has, generally
speaking, the quality of size only, being tough and tasteless.
Nevertheless, the sorts that are held in high favour by growers of
prize Celery are good in themselves when grown to a moderate size; it
is the forcing system alone that deprives them of flavour. Yet another
precaution may be needful to prevent a mishap. In a hot summer, Celery
will sometimes ‘bolt’ or run up to flower, in which case it is
worthless. This may be the fault of the cultivator more than of the
seed or the weather, for a check in many cases hastens the flowering of
plants, and it is not unusual for Celery to receive a check through
mismanagement. If sown too early, it may be impossible to plant out
when of suitable size, and the consequent arrest of growth at a most
important stage may result in a disposition to flower the first year,
instead of waiting for the second. It should be understood, therefore,
that early sowing necessitates early planting, and the cultivator
should see his way clearly from the commencement.

Sowing and Transplanting.—The 1st of March is early enough for a first
sowing anywhere of a small variety, and this will require a mild
hot-bed, or a place in the propagating house. Sow on rich fine soil in
boxes, cover lightly, and place in a temperature of 60°. When forward
enough prick out the plants on a rich bed close to the glass, in a
temperature of 60° to 65°, keep liberally moist, and give air, at first
with great caution, but increasing as the natural temperature rises
until the lights can be removed during the day. The plant may thus be
hardened for a first planting on a warm border in a bed consisting of
one-half rotten hot-bed manure and one-half of turfy loam. The bed need
not be deep, but it must be constantly moist, and old lights should be
at hand to give shelter when needful. If well grown in trenches, this
first crop will be of excellent quality, and will come in early.

For the general crop a second sowing may be made of the finest Red and
White varieties, also on a mild hot-bed, in the second week of March,
and have treatment similar to the first, but once pricking out into the
open bed will be sufficient, the largest plants being put out first at
six inches, and to have shelter if needful; other plantings in the same
way to follow until the seed-bed is cleared. By good management this
sowing may be made to serve the purpose of three sowings, the chief
point being to prick out the most forward plants on another mild bed as
soon as they are large enough to be lifted, and to make a succession
from the same seed-bed as the plants advance to a suitable size.

The third and last sowing may be made in the second week of April, in
an open border, on rich light soil, and should have the shelter of mats
or old lights during cold weather. From this, also, there should be two
or three prickings out, the first to be transferred to a bit of hard
ground, covered with about three inches of rich mulchy stuff, in the
warmest spot that can be found, and the last to a similar bed on the
coldest spot in the garden. In the final planting the same order should
be followed. The result will be a prolonged supply from one sowing, and
the first lot will come in early, though sown late, if the plants are
kept growing without a check, and receive thoroughly generous culture.

The planting out is an important matter, and each lot will require
separate treatment, subordinate to one general and very simple plan.
Celery must have rich soil, abundant moisture, and must be blanched to
make it fit for table. There are various ways of accomplishing these
ends, although they differ but slightly, and common sense will guide us
in the matter. For the earliest crops the ground must be laid out in
trenches, with as much rich stable manure dug in as can be afforded. To
overdo it in this respect seems impossible, for Celery, like
Cauliflower, will grow freely in rotten manure alone, without any
admixture of loam. The trenches should be eighteen inches wide at
bottom, ten inches deep, and four feet from centre to centre, and
should run north and south. The plants are to be carefully lifted with
a trowel, and placed six to nine inches apart in single or double rows,
and should have water as planted, that there may be no check. In a cold
soil and a cold season the trenches may be less in depth by two or
three inches with advantage. If dry weather ensues, water must be given
ungrudgingly, but earthing up should not commence until the plant has
made a full and profitable growth, for the earthing pretty well stops
the growth, and is but a finishing process, requiring from five to
seven weeks to bring the crop to perfection. The second lot can be put
out in the same way, and other plantings may follow at discretion; but
as the season advances the trenches must be less deep.

Earthing up is often performed in a rough way, as though the plant were
made of wood instead of the most delicate tissue. The first earthing
should be done with a hand-fork, and quite loosely, to allow the heart
of the plant room to expand. The result should be a little ring of
light earth scarcely pressing the outside leaves, and leaving the whole
plant as free as it was before. A fortnight or so later the earthing
must be carried a stage further by means of the spade. Chop the earth
over, and lay it in heaps on each side of the plant. Then gather a
plant together with both hands, liberate one hand, and with it bring
the earth to the plant half round the base, and, changing hands, pack
up the earth on the other side. Be careful not to press the soil very
close; also avoid putting any crumbs into the heart of the plant; and
do not earth higher than the base of the leaves. As soon as may be
necessary repeat this process, carrying the earth a stage higher; and
about a week from this finish the operation.

The top of the plant must now be closed, and the earth carefully packed
so high that only the very tops of the leaves are visible. Finish to a
proper slope with the spade, but do not press the plants unduly, the
object being simply to obtain a final growth of the innermost leaves in
darkness, but otherwise free from restraint.

The Bed System answers particularly well for producing a large supply
of Celery with the least amount of labour. This method of cultivation
is also especially suitable for raising Celery intended to be served
when boiled, or for soups. Celery beds are made four and a half feet
wide and ten inches deep, the soil which is taken out being laid up in
a slope round the outside of the bed, and the bank thus formed may be
planted with any quick crop, such as Dwarf Beans. The ground will need
to be heavily manured in the same manner as for the trench system.
Space the plants six inches apart in single or double lines, as may be
preferred, and allow not less than twelve inches between the rows.
Water must be given to each row as planted; afterwards the surface to
be several times chopped over with the hoe or a small fork, and
watering repeated until the plants have made a start. An easy means of
blanching is by the use of stiff paper collars as described below;
another simple method is to place mats over the tops of the plants when
nearly full grown. The bed system is not only economical, but
convenient for sheltering in winter, and should have the attention of
gardeners who are expected to supply abundance of Celery throughout the
winter and spring, for in such cases a large sample is not required,
but quality and continuance are of importance.

It is a great point to keep Celery unhurt by frost far on in the
winter, and the advantage of growing the late crops on dry light soil,
and on the bed system, will be seen in the ease with which the plants
can be preserved. On heavy soil Celery soon suffers from frost, but not
so readily on a soil naturally light and dry. Moreover, the bed system
allows of many methods of protection, with whatever materials are at
command. In heavy soil fine crops of Celery for autumn use may be
grown, but in consequence of the liability of the plant to suffer by
winter damp, it is advisable to plant late crops on the level, and
earth up from the adjoining plots in order to keep the roots dry in
winter. Another step towards securing a late supply consists in bending
the tops on one side at the final earthing, which prevents the
trickling of water into the heart of the plant during heavy rain or
snow.

Celery for Exhibition.—From the opening paragraph it will be gathered
that to produce extra fine specimens of Celery for exhibition very
generous treatment of the plants is necessary. Apart from the choice of
varieties—and only the finest strains should be considered—four points
are of especial importance to the cultivator. The ground must be
liberally enriched; at no period should the plant receive a check or
suffer for want of water; there must be the closest inspection at
frequent intervals to prevent disfiguration of the stalks or leaves by
slugs, snails, or the Celery fly; and finally the operation of
blanching will need great care and discretion. These points have
already been dealt with at some length. But on the question of
blanching it may be well to add that in order to insure perfect
specimens, free from blemish, artificial means of some kind must be
adopted in place of earthing up in the ordinary way. The use of strips
of good quality brown paper will prove both simple and effectual. These
strips need not exceed a width of five or six inches, fresh bands being
added as growth develops. Tie them securely with raffia or twine,
making due allowance for expansion of the plant, and when in position
carefully draw the soil towards the base.

The numerous enemies of Celery, such as slugs, snails, the
mole-cricket, and the maggot, do not seriously interfere with the crop
where good cultivation prevails, but the Celery fly appears to be
indifferent to good cultivation, and therefore must be dealt with
directly. Dusting the leaves occasionally with soot has been found to
operate beneficially. It should be done during the month of June on the
mornings of days that promise to be sunny. If the soot is put on
carelessly it will do more harm than good; a very fine dusting will
suffice to render the plant distasteful to the fly. Syringing the
leaves with water impregnated with tar has also saved plants from
attack. Where the eggs are lodged the leaves will soon appear
blistered, and the maggot within must be crushed by pinching the
blister between the thumb and finger. Leaves that are much blistered
should be removed and burned, but to rob the plants of many leaves will
seriously reduce the vigour of growth.

Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery, is much prized on the Continent as a
cooked vegetable, and as a salad. In ordinary Celery the stem forms a
mere basis to the leaves, but in Celeriac it is developed into a knob
weighing from one to five pounds, and the root is more easily preserved
than Celery. When cooked in the same manner as Sea Kale, Celery is well
known as a delicacy at English tables, and the cooked Celeriac ranks in
importance with it, though it affords quite a different dish. The stem
or axis of the plant is used, and not the stalks. To grow fine Celeriac
a long season is requisite; and therefore it is advisable to sow the
seed in a gentle heat early in March, and afterwards prick out and
treat as Celery; but after the first stage the treatment is altogether
different. For the plantation a light and rich soil is required, and
where the staple is heavy, a small bed can easily be prepared by
spreading six inches depth of any sandy soil over the surface. The
plants must be put out on the level a foot and a half apart each way,
and be planted as shallow as possible. Before planting, trim carefully
to remove lateral shoots that might divide the stems, and after
planting water freely. The cultivation will consist in keeping the crop
clean, and frequently drawing the soil away from the plants, for the
more they stand out of the ground the better, provided they are not
distressed. They must never stand still for want of water, or the roots
will not attain to a proper size. The lateral shoots and fibres must be
removed to keep the roots intact, but not to such an extent as to
arrest progress. When a good growth has been made, and the season is
declining, cover the bulbs or stems with a thin coat of fine soil, and
in the first week of October lift a portion of the crop and store it in
sand, all the leaves being first removed, except those in the centre,
which must remain, or the roots may waste their energies in producing
another set. The portion of the crop left in the ground will need
protection from frost, and this can be accomplished by earthing them
over with soil taken from between the rows.

Celeriac is cooked in the same manner as Beet, and requires about the
same length of time. The stems, bulbs, or roots (for the knobs, which
are true stems, are known by various names) are trimmed, washed, and
put into boiling water without salt or any flavouring, and kept boiling
until quite tender; they may then be pared, sliced, and served with
white sauce, or left uncut to be sliced up for salads when cold.

CHICORY

Cichorium Intybus

A valuable addition to the supply of winter and spring roots. When
stewed and served with melted butter, Chicory bears a slight
resemblance to Sea Kale. More frequently, however, it is eaten in the
same manner as Celery, with cheese, and it also makes an excellent and
most wholesome salad. All the garden varieties have been obtained from
the wild plant, and some of the stocks show a decided tendency to
revert to the wild condition. It is therefore important to sow a
carefully selected strain, or the roots may be worthless for producing
heads.

Seed should be sown in May or June, in rows one foot apart, and the
plants thinned out to about nine inches in the rows. The soil must be
deep and rich, but free from recent manure, except at a depth of twelve
inches, when the roots will attain the size of a good Parsnip.

In autumn the roots must be lifted uninjured with the aid of a fork,
and only a few at a time, as required. After cutting off the tops just
above the crown, they can at once be started into growth, and it is
essential that this be made in absolute darkness. French growers plant
in a warm bed of the temperature suited to Mushrooms, but this
treatment ruins the flavour, and has the effect of making the fibre of
the leaves woolly. It is far simpler and better to put the roots into a
cellar or shed in which a temperature above the freezing point may be
relied on, and from which every ray of light can be excluded. They can
be closely packed in deep boxes, with light soil or leaf-mould between.
If the soil be fairly moist, watering will not be necessary for a
month, and had better not be resorted to until the plants show signs of
flagging. Instead of boxes, a couple of long and very wide boards,
stood on edge and supported from the outside, make a convenient and
effective trough. The packing of the roots with soil can be commenced
at one end, and be gradually extended through the entire length, until
the part first used is ready for a fresh start. Breaking the leaves is
better than cutting, and gathering may begin about three weeks after
the roots are stored. From well-grown specimens, heads may be obtained
equal to a compact Cos Lettuce, and by a little management it is easy
to maintain a supply from October until the end of May. The quantity of
salading to be obtained from a few roots is really astonishing.

CORN SALAD

Valerianella olitoria

Corn Salad, or Lamb’s Lettuce, so often seen on Continental tables, is
comparatively unknown in this country. The reason for this is, perhaps,
to be found in the fact that, as a raw vegetable, it is not
particularly palatable, although when dressed as a salad with oil and
the usual condiments it is altogether delicious, and forms a most
refreshing episode in the routine of a good dinner. Corn Salad is a
plant of quick growth, and is valued for its early appearance in
spring, when elegant salads are much in request. It may be mixed with
other vegetables for the purpose, or served alone with a little
suitable preparation.

The most important sowings are made in August and September. Seed may,
however, be sown at any time from February to October, but only those
who are accustomed to the plant should trouble to secure summer crops;
when Lettuces are plentiful Corn Salad is seldom required. Any good
soil will grow it, but the situation should be dry and open. Sow in
drills six inches apart, and thin to six inches in the rows. The crop
is taken in the same way as Spinach, either by the removal of separate
leaves or cutting over in tufts.

COUVE TRONCHUDA

Brassica oleracea costata

Couve Tronchuda, or Portugal Cabbage, is a fine vegetable that should
be grown in every garden, including those in which Cabbages generally
are not regarded as of much importance. The plant is of noble growth,
and in rich ground requires abundant room for the spread of its great
leaves, the midribs of which are thick, white, tender, and when cooked
in the same manner as Sea Kale quite superb in quality. When a fair
crop of these midribs has been taken there remains the top Cabbage,
which is excellent.

Two or three sowings may be made in February, March, and April, and the
early ones must be in heat. Transfer to rich soil as early as possible,
giving the plants ample room, from two to three feet each way, and aid
with plentiful supplies of water in dry weather.

CRESS

Lepidium sativum

Cress is best grown in small lots from frequent sowings, and the sorts
should be kept separate, and, if possible, on the same border. Fresh
fine soil is requisite, and there is no occasion for manuring, in fact
it is objectionable, but a change of soil must be made occasionally to
insure a good growth. The seed is usually sown too thick, yet thin
sowing is not to be recommended. It is important to cut Cress when it
is just ready—tender, green, short, and plump. This it will never be if
sown too thick, or allowed to stand too long. Immediately the plant
grows beyond salad size it becomes worthless, and should be dug in.
From small sowings at frequent intervals under glass a constant supply
of Cress may be kept up through the cold months of the year, for which
purpose shallow boxes or pans will be found most convenient. Cress
generally requires rather more time than Mustard.

American or Land Cress (_Barbarea præcox_) is of excellent quality when
grown on a good border, and two or three sowings should be made in the
spring and autumn in shady spots. If the site is not naturally moist,
water must be copiously given.

Water Cress (_Nasturtium officinale_) is so highly prized that many who
are out of the reach of ordinary sources of supply would gladly
cultivate it were there a reasonable prospect of success. Assertions
have been made that it can be grown in any garden without water, but we
have never yet seen a sample fit to eat which has been grown without
assistance from the water can. A running stream is not necessary. Make
a trench in a shady spot, and well enrich the soil at the bottom of it.
In this sow the seed in March, and when the plants are established keep
the soil well moistened. The more freely this is done the better will
be the result. Other sowings may be made in April, August, and
September. We have seen Water Cress successfully cultivated in pots and
pans immersed in saucers of water placed in shady positions.

CUCUMBER

Cucumis sativus

The Cucumber is everywhere valued. Its exceeding usefulness explains
its popularity, and happily the plant is of an accommodating character.
In large establishments, Cucumbers are grown at all seasons of the
year; in medium-sized gardens, summer Cucumbers are generally deemed
sufficient, and there is no difficulty in growing an abundant and
continuous supply of the finest quality. The winter cultivation demands
suitable appliances and skilful management; but a very small house,
with an efficient heating apparatus, will suffice to produce a large
and constant supply, and therefore winter Cucumbers need not be
regarded as beyond the range of practice of any ordinary well-kept
garden.

Frame Cucumbers are the most in demand, and the easiest to grow. The
very first point for the cultivator is to determine when to begin, for
the rule is to begin too early, and to waste time and opportunity in
consequence. We will suppose the Cucumbers are to be grown in a
two-light frame, for which will be required four good cartloads of
stable manure. This should be put in a heap three weeks before the bed
is made up, and the bed will have to last until the season is
sufficiently advanced to sustain the heat without any further
fermentation. Considering these points, it will be understood that it
is a far safer proceeding to begin the first week in April than the
first week in March, and unless the way is clearly seen, the later date
is certainly preferable, for it reduces to a minimum the conflict with
time in the matter of bottom heat. Make up the heap; then, early in
March, turn it twice, and at the end of the month prepare the bed,
firming the stuff with a fork as the work proceeds, but taking care not
to tread on the bed. Put on the lights and leave the affair for five or
six days; then lay down a bed of rich loamy soil of a somewhat light
and turfy texture, about nine inches deep. It is now optional to sow or
plant as may be most convenient. Strong plants in pots, put out at
once, will fruit earlier than plants from seeds sown on the bed. But
sowing on the bed is good practice for all that, and if this plan is
adopted a few more seeds must be sown than the number of plants
required, to provide a margin for enemies; any surplus plants will
generally prove useful, for Cucumber plants seldom go begging. If it is
preferred to begin with plants, the question of providing them must be
considered in good time. The seed should be sown at least a month in
advance, and should be brought forward on a hot-bed or in a cool part
of a stove. Many a successful Cucumber grower has no better means of
raising plants than by sowing the seeds in a box or pan of light rich
earth, kept in a sunny corner of a common greenhouse, with a slate or
tile laid over until the seeds start, and by a little careful
management nice thrifty plants are secured in the course of about four
weeks. In some books on horticulture a great deal is said as to the
soil in which Cucumber seed should be sown. We advise the reader not to
make too much of that question. Any turfy loam, or even peat, will
answer; but a rank soil is certainly unfit. The object should be to
obtain short, stout plants of a healthy green colour; not the
long-drawn, pallid things that are often to be seen on sale, and which
by their evident weakness seem destined to illustrate the problems of
Cucumber disease.

Having made a beginning with strong plants on a good bed, the two
matters of importance are to regulate the temperature and the watering.
In the first instance, it will be necessary to shade the plants a
little, but as they acquire strength they should have more light and
more air than are usually allowed to Cucumbers. A temperature averaging
60° by night and 80° by day will be found safe and profitable, as
promoting a healthy growth and lasting fruitfulness. But the rule must
be elastic. You may shut up at 90° without harm, and during sunshine
the glass may rise to 95° without injury, provided the plants have air
and are not dry at the roots. But it is of great moment that the night
temperature should be kept near 60° and not go below it. If the
thermometer shows that the night temperature has been above the proper
point owing to the heat of the bed, wedge up the lights about half an
inch in the evening, and as the season advances increase this supply of
night air, for it keeps the plants in health, provided there is no
chill accompanying it. As regards watering, the important point is to
employ soft water of the same temperature as the frame, and therefore a
spare can, filled with water, must be always kept in the frame ready
for use, and when emptied should be filled again and left for the next
watering. Twice a day at least the plants and the sides of the frame
should receive a shower from the syringe. It is better to syringe three
times than twice, but this must be in some degree determined by the
temperature. The greater the heat, the more freely should air and water
be supplied; on the other hand, if the heat runs down, give water with
caution, or disaster may follow. In case of emergency the plants will
go through a bad time without serious damage if kept almost dry, and
then it will be prudent to give but little air. Sometimes the heat of
the bed runs out before there is sufficient sun heat to keep the plants
growing, but if they can be maintained in health for a week or so, hot
weather may set in, and all will come right. But to carry Cucumbers
through at such a time demands particular care as to watering and
air-giving.

As regards stopping and training, we may as well say at once, that the
less of both the better. Free healthy natural growth will result in an
abundant production of fruit, and stopping and training will do very
little to promote the end in view. But there is something to be done to
secure an even growth and the exposure of every leaf to light. When the
young plant has made three rough leaves, nip out the point to encourage
the production of shoots from the base. When the shoots have made four
leaves, nip out the points to promote a further growth of side shoots,
and after this there must be no more stopping until there is a show of
fruit. The growth should be pegged out to cover the bed in the most
regular manner possible, and wherever superfluous shoots appear they
must be removed. Any crowding will have to be paid for, because crowded
shoots are not fruitful. If a great show of fruit appears suddenly,
remove a large portion of it, as over-cropping makes a troublesome glut
for a short time, and then there is an end of the business; but by
keeping the crop down to a reasonable limit, the plants will bear
freely to the end of the season. Every fruiting shoot should be stopped
at two leaves beyond the fruit, and as the crop progresses there must
be occasional pruning out of old shoots to make room for young ones. An
error of management likely to occur with a beginner is allowing the bed
to become dry below while it is kept quite moist above by means of the
syringe. Many cultivators drive sticks into the bed here and there, and
from time to time they draw these out and judge by their appearance
whether or not the bed needs a heavy watering. To be dry at the root is
deadly to the Cucumber plant, and to be in a swamp is not less deadly.
It must have abundance of moisture above and below, but stagnation of
either air or water will bring disease, ending in a waste of labour.

The greenhouse cultivation of the Cucumber for a summer crop only is
the most profitable and simple as well as the most interesting of all
the methods practised. In many gardens the houses that have been filled
during the winter with Geraniums and other plants are very poorly
furnished during the summer, and present a most unsightly appearance.
Now, it is a very easy matter to render them at once profitable and
beautiful, for when clothed with green vines bearing handsome
Cucumbers, such houses are attractive and pay their way amazingly well.
To carry out the routine properly, the house should be cleared at the
end of April, the plants being removed to pits and frames. If possible,
make up the beds on slates laid close over the hot-water pipes, and use
a bushel or more of soil under each light to begin with. First lay on
the slate a large seed-pan, bottom upwards, and on that a few flat
tiles, and then heap up a shallow cone of nice light turfy loam. Start
the fire and shut up, and raise the heat of the empty house to 80° or
90° for one whole day. The next day plant on each hillock a short stout
Cucumber plant, or sow three seeds. Proceed as advised for frame
culture, keeping a temperature of 60° by night and 80° by day, with a
rise of 5° to 10° during sunshine. Ply the syringe freely, give air
carefully, and use the least amount of shading possible. It will very
soon be found that by judicious management in shutting up and
air-giving, the firing may be dispensed with, and then it remains only
to syringe freely and train with care. The plants should not be stopped
at all, but be taken up direct to the roof and be trained out on a few
wires or tarred string, in the first instance right and left, and
afterwards along the rafters to meet at the ridge, and form a rich
leafy arcade. The fruits will appear in quantity, and must be thinned
to prevent over-cropping. As the plants grow, earth must be added to
the hillocks until there is a continuous bed, on which a certain number
of shoots may be trained where there is sufficient light for them. It
is best to begin as advised above, with the aid of fire heat to start
the crop for the sake of gaining time; but if this is not convenient
begin without fire heat in the last week of May, and the plants will
produce fruit until the chill of autumn makes an end of them, and the
house is again required for the greenhouse plants.

Winter Cucumbers thrive best in lean-to houses with somewhat steep
roofs, as such houses are less liable to chill during cold windy
weather, and they catch a maximum of the winter sunshine. In a mild
winter, Cucumbers may be grown in any kind of house that can be
maintained at a suitable temperature, and the markets are supplied from
rough constructions that do duty for many purposes. But in hard
weather, the steep lean-to, with bed along the front, and tank to give
equable bottom heat, will prove the most serviceable, as it will
neither allow snow to lodge on the glass, nor suffer any serious
decline of temperature during the prevalence of sharp frost and keen
winds. For late autumn supply any kind of house will suffice, but best
of all an airy span. A brick pit will answer every purpose from October
to March with good management, and fermenting materials will afford the
needful heat. In such cases trenches should be provided for occasional
renewal of the bottom heat. But a roomy house and a service of hot
water justly stand in favour with experienced cultivators, as combining
the necessary conditions with convenience of management.

For winter culture, plants are raised from seeds and from cuttings.
Seedling plants are the most vigorous, but they require a little more
time than cuttings to arrive at a fruiting state. For pot culture
cuttings are preferable, as only a moderate crop is expected, and
quickness of production is of great importance. It is usual to sow the
first lot of seeds on the 1st of September, and to sow again on the 1st
of October and the 1st of November; after which it is not advisable to
sow again until the 1st of February for the spring crop. If the
management is good, the first sowing will be in fruit by the time the
third batch of seed is sown, say, by the first week of November, and
thenceforward throughout the winter there should be no break in the
supply.

The management of Winter Cucumbers turns upon details chiefly, and will
be found in the end to depend rather upon care than skill. The general
principles are the same as in growing Cucumbers in frames, the task for
the cultivator being to carry them out successfully. Begin by sowing
the seed singly in small pots in light turfy loam, or peat with which a
fair proportion of sharp sand has been mixed. These pots to be placed
in a heat of 70° to 75°, and for plants to last long the lower
temperature is preferable. As regards the next stage, the plants may be
trained up rafters, or spread out on beds, the first being always the
better plan where it happens to be convenient. But the prudent
cultivator will not be tied to rules; he will cut his coat according to
his cloth, and while he has a house of Cucumbers trained to the roof,
he will, perhaps, also have a pit filled with plants on beds. To stop
severely is bad practice, for vigorous growth is wanted; but a certain
amount of stopping must be done to promote an even growth, and to
distribute the fruit fairly both in space and time. We have already
admitted that in some books on gardening too much has been said about
soil. In many places a suitable turfy loam, or a good fibrous peat, may
be obtained, and the accidents that have befallen Cucumbers have
usually been the result of bad management in respect of heat, water,
and air, rather than the use of unsuitable soil. But it must not be
supposed that we are careless about this matter. Neither a pasty clay,
a sour sticky loam, nor a poor sandy or chalky soil will produce fine
Cucumbers. On the other hand, rank manure and poor leaf-mould are both
unfavourable materials. There is nothing like mellow loam, which can be
enriched and modified at discretion, without going to extremes.

Ridge Cucumbers are grown in much the same way as recommended for
Vegetable Marrows. They may be put on hillocks or beds, and in either
case a foundation of fermenting material is required to insure a crop
in the early part of the summer. For a late crop, the natural heat of
the soil will be sufficient should the summer prove to be fine, but in
a cold season Ridge Cucumbers are disappointing. Of the many methods of
growing them, one of the best is to lay out the ground in four-feet
beds by taking out the soil to a depth of fifteen inches, and spreading
about that depth or more of half-rotted manure, to which may be added
any leaves and other litter that may be handy. Cover with a foot depth
of good loam. About mid-April sow the seeds in three-inch pots or in
boxes and place in a cool greenhouse. After careful hardening, plant
out about the third week of May. If preferred, seeds may be sown on the
bed early in May. Give the plants the protection of a hand-light should
the weather prove unfavourable, and some care will be needed to keep
them moving fairly until the season is so far advanced as to allow for
the removal of the lights. Put the plants at thirty inches apart down
the middle of the bed, and when growing freely, nip out the points
_once only_. A crop of Lettuce may be taken from the beds while the
plants are advancing.

DANDELION

Taraxacum officinale

As a salad Dandelion has won general esteem for its wholesome medicinal
qualities. Nature teaches the way to grow this plant, for she sows the
seed in early summer, and we find the finest plants on dry ground,
while there are none to be found in bogs and swamps. Any gravelly or
chalky soil will grow good Dandelion, one fair digging without manure
being a sufficient preparation for it. Sow in May or June, and thin to
one foot apart every way, keeping the crop scrupulously clean by flat
hoeing. Any time in the winter the roots may be lifted and forced in
the same way as Sea Kale, or they may be covered with pots in spring to
blanch where grown. In any case the spring growth must be made in
darkness, for when green the flavour is bitter. Invalids who require
this salutary salad may obtain early supplies by planting the roots in
boxes in a cellar, and covering with empty boxes. Only as much water
should be given as will keep the roots reasonably moist.

EGG PLANT (AUBERGINE)

Solatium Melongena, S. esculentum

In this country the Egg Plant is generally grown merely as an ornament,
but it is a delicious vegetable when sliced and fried in oil, the
purple-and black-fruited kinds being especially serviceable for the
table. The common white, which is best known, is fairly good when
cooked young, though less rich in flavour than the purple. The
cultivation recommended for Capsicum will suit the Egg Plant, but
little atmospheric moisture is needed or the seedlings may damp off.
They are not well adapted for planting out, although in a warm season
they will fruit freely under a sunny wall, and will grow in a gravel
walk if helped at first with a little good soil round the roots. If
required in quantity for the table, the purple variety may be grown in
a frame from plants raised on a hot-bed. Generally speaking, a few
plants in pots are all that are required where the fruit is not valued
as an esculent.

ENDIVE

Cichorium Endivia

As a result of the growing taste for wholesome salads Endive has
considerably advanced in public esteem. The flavour of well-blanched
Endive suits most palates that have had experience of salads, and of
the salutary properties of the plant we have a hint in its close
relation to the Chicory.

The selection of sorts is a question of importance, because the
handsome curled varieties that make the best appearance on the table,
and might be regarded as ornaments if they were not edible, are the
very finest for salads, being tender, with a fresh nutty flavour. The
broad-leaved sorts are not so well adapted for salads as for stews, and
they take the place of Lettuces when the latter are not available for
soups and ragoûts. However, when an emergency occurs, the curled
varieties will be found suitable for cooking, and the broad-leaved for
salading, and therefore there need be no waste where one sort
predominates.

Soil.—A difficulty common to Endive culture may be got over in the way
advised for Celeriac. The plant requires a light, dry, sandy soil; and
a portion, at least, of the crop is expected to stand through the
winter. Thus on a heavy soil there is a prospect of failure in respect
of the late crop, but that is obviated by adopting a made bed—one of
smallish dimensions being sufficient to accommodate a large stock of
plants. Select an open spot, make a foundation of any hard rubbish that
is at hand, and on this put one to two feet of sandy soil. This will
form a raised bed of a kind exactly suited to the plant, and will cost
but little as compared with its ultimate value. If regularly dressed
with manure, and otherwise well managed, the bed will supply Endive in
winter and other salads in summer, or it may be cropped with Dwarf
Beans, which can be removed in August to make way for the usual
planting of Endive. Where the soil is naturally light and dry no such
preparation is needed, but Endive does not come to perfection without
food, and therefore the soil should be rich and deeply dug.

Sowing and Transplanting.—The seed may be sown as early as March, in a
moderate heat, but the latter part of April is early enough for most
purposes, and the main sowings are made in June. Later sowings may
follow in July and August. But the June sowing is the most important,
as by a little careful management it will supply a few early heads and
many late ones. Sow in shallow drills six inches apart, and when the
plants are an inch high draw the most forward, and prick them out on a
bed of rich light soil in the same way as Celery, and with a little
nursing these will make a first plantation. The plants in the seed-bed
should be thinned to three inches, and must have water in dry weather.
All the thinnings should be pricked out in the first instance to make
them strong for planting, but the last lot may go direct to the beds to
finish.

The final planting must be on rich, light, dry soil, and water given to
encourage growth. The distance for the curled varieties is a foot each
way, and for the broad-leaved fifteen inches. In taking the last lot
from the seed-bed, a crop should be left untouched to mature at twelve
to fifteen inches apart. These plants will give a first and most
excellent supply if carefully blanched.

If more convenient, seed may be sown where the crop is intended to
stand, the plants being thinned to the distances already given.

The blanching is an important business, and is variously performed. The
customary mode is to tie the leaves together in the manner usual with
Lettuce and mould them up. This method answers perfectly, except in wet
seasons, when, if the plants stand for some time, the outer leaves
begin to rot, and the decay proceeds inwards, to the deterioration or
destruction of the plant. A clean and effective process is to cover the
heart of the plant with a flower-pot. The hole is darkened with part of
a tile or slate, on which should be laid a piece of turf or a handful
of mould. A plate or clean tile placed over the centre of the plant
will also blanch Endives satisfactorily in autumn. For winter supplies,
the plants may be lifted as wanted and placed in boxes or pots of soil,
these being covered with other boxes or pots to exclude light. A
Mushroom-house, cellar, or under a greenhouse stage, will serve for
storing the lifted plants. The blanching must be carried on in such a
way as to insure a succession without a glut at any time, for when
sufficiently blanched Endive should be used, or decay will soon set in.

GARLIC

Allium sativura

The mode of culture advised for Shallots will suit Garlic also, except
that the latter should be planted in February about two inches beneath
the surface of the soil, and the bulbs may be grown closer together,
about eight or nine inches apart each way.

When large bulbs are required for exhibition or other purposes, the
cloves—as the divisions of each root are called—should be planted
separately; but for general use moderate-sized bulbs, planted whole,
will produce a heavier crop.

GOURD and PUMPKIN

(Cucurbita)

Gourds and Pumpkins may be grown to perfection by precisely the same
method recommended for Ridge Cucumbers; but as the plants occupy more
space, room must be left for them to extend south wards beyond the
limits of the ridge. It is well to put out strong plants from seeds
sown in pots in April or May, and protect them until established. If
these are not obtainable, the seed may be sown where the plants are
intended to stand, and there will in time be plenty of produce, but of
course somewhat later in the season than if strong plants had been put
out in the first instance. Keep a sharp look-out for slugs, which will
flock in from all quarters to feast upon them, but will scarcely touch
them after they have been planted a week or so. Any rough fermenting
material, such as grass mowings, may be used in making the hills, to
give them the aid of a warm bed for a brief space of time, and it is a
great gain if they grow freely from the first. Later on the natural
heat will be enough for them.

The edible Gourds are useful in all their stages and ages; and if the
cultivator has a fancy to grow large, handsome fruits, he can make the
business answer by hanging them up for use in winter, when they may be
employed in soups in place of Carrots, or in addition to the usual
vegetables, and may indeed be cooked in half a dozen different ways.
There remains yet one more purpose to which the plants may be applied:
supposing you have a great plantation of edible Gourds and Marrows, and
would like a peculiarly elegant and delicious dish of Spinach, pinch
off a sufficiency of the tops of the advancing shoots, and cook them
Spinach fashion. If properly done, it is one of the finest vegetables
ever eaten. As pinching off the tender tops of the shoots lessens the
fruitfulness of the vines, we only recommend this procedure where there
is a large plantation.

Gourds may be trained to trellises, fences, and walls. In all such
cases, a good bed should be prepared of any light, rich loam, and it
will be none the less effective if made on a mound of fermenting
material.

HERBS

With certain exceptions, the growing of Sweet Herbs from seeds is
altogether advantageous. The plants come perfectly true, and are so
vigorous that it is easier to raise them from seed than to secure a
succession from slips or cuttings. To meet a large and continuous
demand in the kitchen there must be a proportionate plantation in the
border; but in gardens of medium size we do not advocate the culture of
Herbs on an extensive scale, unless there be a special object in view.
A moderate number of Herbs will meet the necessities of most families.
Still it is a fact that the tendency is always in the direction of
increased variety, and gardeners are called on to provide frequent
changes of flavouring Herbs, some of which are quite as highly prized
in salads as they are for culinary purposes.

In the smallest gardens, Mint, Parsley, Sage, and both Common and Lemon
Thyme, must find a place. In gardens which have any pretension to
supply the needs of a luxurious table there should be added Basil,
Chives, Pot and Sweet Marjoram, Summer and Winter Savory, Sorrel,
Tarragon, and others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens
generally contain a plot, proportioned to demands, of all the varieties
which follow.

Several of the most popular Herbs, such as Chives, Mint, Tarragon, and
Lemon Thyme, are not grown from seed—at all events, those who venture
on the pastime might employ their labour to greater advantage. But
others, such as Basil, Borage, Chervil, Fennel, Marjoram, Marigold,
Parsley, Savory, &c., are grown from seed, in some cases of necessity,
and in others because it is the quicker and easier way of securing a
crop.

Angelica and Mint flourish in moist soil, but the majority of aromatic
Herbs succeed on land that is dry, poor, and somewhat sandy, rather
than in the rich borders that usually prevail in the Kitchen Garden.
Happily they are not very particular, but sunshine they must have for
the secretion of their fragrant essences. A narrow border marked off in
drills, and, if possible, sloping to the south, will answer admirably.
Thin the plants in good time, and the thinnings of those wanted in
quantity may, if necessary, be transplanted. The soil must be kept free
from weeds, and every variety be allowed sufficient space for full
development.

Angelica (_A. Archangelica_).—A native biennial which is not easily
raised from seed treated in the ordinary way. Germination is always
capricious, slow and irregular. It may be several months before the
plants begin to appear. The best results are obtained by placing the
seed in sand, kept moist for several weeks before sowing. The leaves
and stalks are sometimes blanched and eaten as Celery, and are also
boiled with meat and fish. Occasionally the tender stems and midribs
are coated with candied sugar as a confection. Angelica was formerly
supposed to possess great medicinal virtues, but its reputation as a
remedy for poison and as a preventive of infectious diseases is not
supported by the disciples of modern chemistry. The seeds are still
used for flavouring liqueurs.

Balm (_Melissa officinalis_).—A perennial herb, which can be propagated
by cuttings or grown as an annual from seed. An essential oil is
distilled from the leaves, but they are chiefly used, when dried, for
making tea for invalids, especially those suffering from fever. The
plant has also been used for making Balm wine. Sow in May.

Basil, Bush (_Ocymum minimum_).—A dwarf-growing variety, used for the
same purposes as the Sweet Basil. Sow in April.

Basil, Sweet (_Ocymum Basilicum_).—A tender annual, originally obtained
from India, and one of the most popular of the flavouring Herbs. Seeds
should be sown in February or March in gentle heat. When large enough
the seedlings must be pricked off into boxes until they are ready for
transferring to a rich border in June, or seed may be sown in the open
ground during April and May. A space of eight inches between the plants
in the rows will suffice, but the rows should be at least a foot apart.
The flower-stems must be cut as they rise, and be tied in bundles for
winter use. This practice will prolong the life of the plant until late
in the season. Many gardeners lift plants in September, pot them, and
so maintain a supply of fresh green leaves until winter is far
advanced.

Borage (_Borago officinalis_).—A native hardy plant, which thrives in
poor, stony soil. The flowers are used for flavouring purposes,
especially for claret-cup. Borage is also a great favourite with
bee-masters. Sow in April or May in good loam, and thin to fifteen or
eighteen inches apart. The rows should be from eighteen to twenty-four
inches asunder, for the plant is tall, and strong in growth.

Chervil, Curled (_Anthriscus Cerefolium_).—Used for salads, garnishing,
and culinary purposes. To secure a regular supply of leaves small
successional sowings are necessary from spring to autumn, and frequent
watering in dry weather will prevent the plants from being spoiled by
throwing up seed-stems. For winter use, sow in boxes kept in a warm
temperature.

Chives (_Allium Schænoprasum_).—A mild substitute for the Onion in
salads and soups. The plant is a native of Britain, and will grow
freely in any ordinary garden soil. Propagation is effected by division
of the roots either in spring or autumn. The clumps should be cut
regularly in succession whether wanted or not, with the object of
maintaining a continuous growth of young and tender shoots. At
intervals of four years it will be necessary to lift, divide, and
replant the roots on fresh ground.

Fennel (_Fæniculum officinale_).—A hardy perennial which has been
naturalised in some parts of this country. It is grown in gardens to
furnish a supply of its elegant feathery foliage for garnishing and for
use in fish sauces. Occasionally the stems are blanched and eaten in
the same way as Celery, and in the natural state they are boiled as a
vegetable. The seeds are also employed for flavouring. Sow in drills in
April and May, and thin the plants to fifteen inches apart.

Finocchio, or Florence Fennel (_Fæniculum dulce_, DC).—A sweet-tasting
herb, very largely grown in the south of Italy, where it is eaten both
in the natural state and when boiled. Sow in the open ground during
spring or early summer, in rows about eighteen inches apart, and thin
or transplant to six or nine inches. When the base begins to swell,
earth up the plants in the same manner as Celery. If transplanted,
pinch off the tips of the roots.

Horehound (_Marrubium vulgare_).—A well-known medicinal herb, from
which an extract is obtained for subduing irritating coughs. Sow in
April or May, and thin the plants until they stand fifteen inches
apart.

Hyssop (_Hyssopus officinalis_).—The leaves and young shoots are used
as a pot-herb, and the leafy tops and flowers, when dried, are employed
for medicinal purposes. Hyssop is also occasionally used as an edging
plant. A dry soil and warm situation suit it. Sow in April, and thin
the plants to a foot apart in the rows.

Lavender (_Lavandula_).—Universally known and valued for its perfume.
Although the plant is generally propagated from cuttings, it can easily
be grown from seed sown in April or May. The plants attain a height of
one or two feet, and the stems should not be cut until the flowers are
expanded.

Marigold, Pot (_Calendula officinalis_).—Employed both in flower and
vegetable gardens: in the former as a bedding annual, and in the latter
that the flowers may be dried and stored for colouring and flavouring
soups; also for distilling. In April or May sow the seed in drills one
foot apart, and thin the plants to the same distance in the rows.

Marjoram, Pot (_Origanum Onites_).—One of the most familiar Herbs in
British gardens. The aromatic leaves are used both green and when dried
for flavouring. Strictly the plant is a perennial, but it is readily
grown as an annual. Sow in February or March in gentle heat, and in the
open ground a month later. The plants should be allowed a space often
inches or a foot each way.

Marjoram, Sweet Knotted (_Origanum Majorana_).—This plant is used for
culinary purposes in the same way as the Pot Marjoram, and it is also
regarded as a tonic and stomachic. The most satisfactory mode of
cultivation is that of a half-hardy annual. Sow in March or April and
allow each plant a square foot of ground.

Mint (_Mentha viridis_).—Known also as Spearmint. It must be grown from
divisions. Between the delicacy of fresh young green leaves and those
which have been dried with the utmost care there is so wide a
difference that the practice of forcing from November to May is fully
justified. This is easily accomplished by packing roots in a box and
keeping them moist in a temperature of 60°. Where this is impossible,
stems must be cut, bunched, and hung in a cool store for use during
winter and spring. Mint grows vigorously in damp soil, and the bed
should have occasional attention, to prevent plants from extending
beyond their proper boundary. To secure young and luxuriant growth a
fresh plantation should be made annually in February or March. If
allowed to occupy the same plot of land year after year the leaves
become small and the stems wiry.

Parsley (_Carum Petroselinum_) will teach those who have eyes exactly
how it should be grown. There will appear here and there in a garden
stray or rogue Parsley plants. No matter how regularly the hoeing and
weeding may be done, a stray Parsley plant will occasionally appear
alone, perhaps in the midst of Lettuces, or Cauliflowers, or Onions.
When these rogues escape destruction they become superb plants, and the
gardener sometimes leaves them to enjoy the conditions they have
selected, and in which they evidently prosper. The lesson for the
cultivator is, that Parsley should have plenty of room from the very
first; and this lesson, we feel bound to say, cannot be too often
enforced upon young gardeners, for they are apt to sow Parsley far more
thickly than is wise, and to be injuriously slow and timid in thinning
the crop when the plants are crowding one another.

Parsley, like many other good things, will grow almost anywhere and
anyhow, but to make a handsome crop a deep, rich, moist soil is
required. It attains to fine quality on a well-tilled clay, but the
kindly loam that suits almost every vegetable is adapted to produce
perfect Parsley, and every good garden should show a handsome sample,
for beauty is the first required qualification. To keep the house
fairly well supplied sowings should be made in February, May, and July.
The first of these will be in gentle heat. When large enough prick out
the plants into boxes, or on to a mild hot-bed, and transfer to the
open ground at the end of April, allowing each plant a space of one
foot each way. In the open, it is best to sow in lines one foot apart,
and thin out first to three inches, and finally to six inches, the
strongest of the seedlings being put out one foot apart. By following
this plan sufficient supplies for a small household may be obtained
from one annual sowing made in April. It should not be overlooked that
Parsley is indispensable to exhibitors of vegetables, especially as a
groundwork for collections, and due allowance for such calls must be
made in fixing the number and extent of the sowings. When the plant
pushes for seed it becomes useless, and had best be got rid of; but by
planting at various times in different places a sufficiency may be
expected to go through a second season without bolting, after which it
will be necessary to root them out and consign them to the
rubbish-heap. Parsley is often grown as an edging, but it is only in
large gardens that this can be done advantageously, and then a very
handsome edging is secured. In small gardens it is best to sow on a bed
in lines one foot apart, and thin out first to three inches, and
finally to six inches, the strongest of the thinnings being planted a
foot apart, to last over as proposed above. When Parsley has stood some
time it becomes coarse, but the young growth may be renewed by cutting
over; this operation being also useful to defer the flowering, which is
surely hastened by leaving the plants alone. For the winter supply a
late plantation made in a sheltered spot will usually suffice, for the
plant is very hardy; but it may be expedient sometimes to put old
frames over a piece worth keeping, or to protect during hard weather
with dry litter. A few plants lifted into five-inch pots and placed in
a cool house will often tide over a difficult period. In gathering,
care should be taken to pick separately the young leaves that are
nearly full grown, and to take only one or two from each plant. It
costs no more time to fill a basket by taking a leaf or two here and
there from a whole row than to strip two or three plants, and the
difference in the end will be considerable as regards the total produce
and quality of the crop.

Pennyroyal (_Mentha Pulegium_) is a native perennial which must be
propagated by divisions, and this can be done either in spring or
autumn. The rows may be twelve or fifteen inches apart, but in the rows
the plants do well at a distance of eight inches. The taste for
Pennyroyal is by no means universal, but some persons like the tender
tops in culinary preparations. The belief in its supposed medicinal
virtues is slowly dying.

Purslane (_Portulaca oleracea_).—This annual plant thrives best in a
sunny position. Seed should be sown from mid-April onwards to insure a
succession of young leaves and shoots which may be cooked as a
vegetable or eaten raw as a salad. Space the rows nine inches apart and
thin the plants to a distance of six inches.

Rampion (_Campanula Rapunculus_).—Both leaves and roots are used in
winter salads; the roots are also boiled. If the seed be sown earlier
than the end of May the plants are liable to bolt. Choose a shady
situation where the soil is rich and light, and do not stint water. The
rows need not exceed six inches apart, and four inches in the rows will
be a sufficient space between plants.

Rosemary (_Rosmarinus officinalis_).—A hardy evergreen shrub easily
grown from seed, the leaves of which are used for making Rosemary tea
for relieving headache. An essential oil is also obtained by
distillation. A dry, warm, sunny border suits the plant. Sow in April
and May.

Rue (_Ruta graveolens_).—A hardy evergreen shrub, chiefly cultivated
for its medicinal qualities. The leaves are acrid, and emit a pungent
odour when handled. The plant is shrubby, and as it attains a height of
two or three feet it occupies a considerable space. Sow in April.

Sage (_Salvia officinalis_).—Although Sage can be raised from seed with
a minimum of trouble, yet this is one of the few instances where it is
an advantage to propagate plants from a good stock. The difference will
be obvious to any gardener who will grow seedlings by the side of
propagated plants. Still, seedlings are often raised, and as annuals
the plants are quite satisfactory. Sow under glass in February and
March, and in open ground during April and May. Prick off the seedlings
into a nursery bed before transferring to final positions, in which
each plant should be allowed a space of fifteen inches.

Savory, Summer (_Satureia hortensis_).—An aromatic seasoning and
flavouring herb, which must be raised annually from seed. Sow early in
April in drills one foot apart, and thin the plants to six or eight
inches in the rows. Cut the stems when in full flower, and tie in
bunches for winter use.

Savory, Winter (_Satureia montana_).—A hardy dwarf evergreen which can
be propagated by cuttings; but it is more economically grown from seed
sown at the same time, and treated in the same manner, as Summer
Savory.

Sorrel (_Rumex scutalus_).—The large-leaved or French Sorrel is not
only served as a separate dish, but is mingled with Spinach, and is
also used as an ingredient in soups, sauces, and salads. Leaves of the
finest quality are obtainable from plants a year old, and when the crop
has been gathered the ground may with advantage be utilised for some
other purpose. Light soil in fairly good heart suits the plant. The
seed should be sown in March or early April, in shallow drills six or
eight inches apart, and the seedlings must be thinned early, leaving
three or four inches between them in the rows. To keep the bed free
from weeds is the only attention necessary, unless an occasional
watering becomes imperative. In September the entire crop may be
transferred to fresh ground, allowing eighteen inches between the
plants, or part may be drawn and the remainder left at that distance.
In the following spring the flower-stems will begin to rise, and if
these are allowed to develop they reduce the size of the leaves and
seriously impair their quality; hence the heads should be pinched out
as fast as they are presented.

Tarragon (_Artemisia Dracunculus_).—This aromatic herb is used for a
variety of purposes, but is most commonly employed for imparting its
powerful flavour to vinegar. The plant is a perennial, and must be
propagated by divisions in March or April, or by cuttings placed in
gentle heat in spring. Later in the year they will succeed under a
hand-glass in the open. Green leaves are preferable to those which have
been dried, and by a little management a succession of plants is easily
arranged. For winter use roots may be lifted in autumn and placed in
heat. Those who have no facilities for maintaining a supply of green
leaves rely on foliage cut in autumn and dried.

Thyme, Common (_Thymus vulgaris_).—An aromatic herb, well known in
every garden, and in constant demand for the house. Seedlings are
easily raised from a sowing in April, or the plant can be grown from
division of the roots in spring. Thyme makes a very effective edging,
and is frequently employed for this purpose on dry, well-kept borders.

Thyme, Lemon (_Thymus Serpyllum vulgaris_).—This plant cannot be grown
from seed; only by division of the roots in March or April. It is an
aromatic herb, generally regarded as indispensable in a well-ordered
garden.

Wormwood (_Artemisia Absinthium_).—An intensely bitter herb, used for
medicinal purposes. The plant is a hardy perennial, and is usually
propagated in spring by taking cuttings or dividing the roots.

HORSE-RADISH

Cochlearia Armoracia

This vegetable is highly prized as a condiment to roast beef, but as a
rule it is badly grown. The common practice is to consign it to some
neglected corner of the garden, where it struggles for existence, and
produces sticks which are almost worthless for the table. In the same
space a plentiful supply of large handsome sticks may be grown with as
little trouble as Carrots or Parsnips. Choose for the crop a piece of
good open ground, and in preparing it place a heavy dressing of rotten
manure quite at the bottom of each trench. Early in the year select
young straight roots from eight to twelve inches long, each having a
single crown, and plant them one foot apart each way. By the following
autumn these will become large, succulent sticks, which will put to
shame the ugly striplings grown under starving conditions. The roots
may be dug as required; but we do not advocate that method. It is
better practice to clear the whole bed at once, and store the produce
in sand for use when wanted. This plan should be repeated each year,
and a fresh piece of land ought always to be found for the crop.

KALE—_see_ BORECOLE, _page 27_

KOHL RABI (KNOL KOHL)

Brassica oleracea Caulo-rapa

Kohl Rabi, or Knol Kohl, is comparatively little grown in this country,
because we can almost always command tender and tasty Turnips. On the
Continent it is otherwise. There Kohl Rabi may be seen in every market,
and on many a good table, where it proves a most acceptable vegetable.
For all ordinary purposes the green variety is better than the purple.
A small crop of this root should be annually grown in every garden. In
case of failure with Turnips, Kohl Rabi will take their place to tide
over an emergency. When. served it has the flavour of a Turnip with a
somewhat nutty tendency, and may be prepared for table in the same
manner.

Kohl Rabi is cultivated in much the same way as Turnips. Seed may be
sown at any time from March to August in rows one and a half to two
feet apart. As soon as possible thin the seedlings to three inches
apart in the rows, and, as the leaves develop, to six inches apart. By
drawing every other plant some small roots may be obtained early, and
the remainder will be left to mature at twelve inches in the rows. The
seedlings may be transplanted, if desired. Keep the ground clean and
the surface open, but care should be taken not to damage the leaves, or
in the least degree to earth up the roots. Any animal that can eat a
Turnip will prefer a Kohl Rabi, and when substituted for the Turnip in
feeding cows, it does not affect the flavour of the milk. The plant is
hardy, and as a rule may stand, to be drawn as wanted, until the spring
is far advanced, when the remnant should be cleared off for the benefit
of the animals on the home farm, or be dug in as manure.

LEEK

Allium Porrum

The leek is not so fully appreciated in the southern parts of England
as it is in the North, and in Scotland and Wales. It is a fine
vegetable where it is well understood, and when stewed in gravy there
is nothing of its class that can surpass it in flavour and
wholesomeness. One reason of its fame in Scotland and the colder parts
of Wales is its exceeding hardiness. The severest winters do not harm
the plant, and it may remain in the open ground until wanted,
occasioning no trouble for storage.

Times of Sowing.—To obtain large handsome specimens of the finest
quality a start must be made in January or early February, and this
early sowing is imperative for the production of Leeks for exhibition,
as the roots must be given a longer season of growth than is generally
allowed for ordinary crops. It is usual to sow in pans or boxes of
moistened soil, placed in a temperature of about 55°. The seeds need
only a very light covering of fine soil. When the seedlings are about
two inches high transfer to shallow boxes of rich soil, spacing them
three inches apart each way, or the finest may be placed in pots of the
32-size, taking care not to break the one slender root on which the
plant depends at this stage. Grow on in the same temperature until
mid-March, when they may be transferred to a cold frame to undergo
progressive hardening in readiness for planting out at a favourable
opportunity in April.

There may be three sowings of Leek made in the open ground in February,
March, and April, to insure a succession, and also to make good any
failures. But for most gardens one sowing about the middle of March
will be sufficient. From this sowing it will be an easy matter to
secure an early supply, a main crop, and a late crop, for they may be
transplanted from the seed-bed at a very early stage, and successive
thinnings will make several plantations; and finally, as many can be
left in the seed-bed to mature as will form a proper plantation.

General Cultivation.—The Leek will grow in any soil, and when no
thicker than the finger is useful; indeed, in many places where the
soil is poor and the climate cold it rarely grows larger, but is,
nevertheless, greatly valued. A rich dry soil suits the plant well, and
when liberally grown it attains to a great size, and is very
attractive, with its silvery root and brilliant green top. The
economical course of management consists in thinning and planting as
opportunities occur, beginning as soon as the plants are six inches
high, and putting them in well-prepared ground, which should be
thoroughly watered previously, unless already softened by rain. The
distance for planting must depend upon the nature of the soil and the
requirements of the cultivator. For an average crop, eighteen inches
between the rows and six to nine inches between the plants is
sufficient; but to grow large Leeks, they must be allowed a space of
twelve to eighteen inches in the rows. In planting, first shorten the
leaves a little (and very little), then drive down the dibber, and put
the plant in as deep as the base of the leaves, and close in carefully
without pressure. Water liberally, occasionally stir the ground between
plants, and again cut off the tops of the leaves, when the roots will
grow to a large size. If the ground is dangerously damp or pasty, make
a bed for the crop with light rich soil, plant on the level and mould
up as the growth advances. On light land, however, it is advisable to
grow them in trenches, prepared as for Celery. The largest and whitest
should not be left to battle with storms, but those left in the
seed-bed will take no harm from winter weather, and will be useful when
the grandees are eaten. The finest roots that remain when winter sets
in may be taken up in good time and stored in dry sand, and will keep
for at least a month. Any that remain over in spring can readily be
turned to account. As the flower-stems rise nip them out; not one
should be left. The result of this practice will be the formation on
the roots of small roundish white bulbs, which make an excellent dish
when stewed in gravy, and may be used for any purpose in cookery for
which Onions or Shallots are employed. They are called ‘Leek Bulbs,’
and are obtainable only in early summer.

Blanching.—The edible part of the root should be blanched, and this may
be effected in various ways. Drain-pipes not less than two and a half
inches in diameter, and from twelve to fifteen inches in length, answer
well for large stems. Tubes of stiff brown paper are also very
serviceable. Drawing up the earth to the stem as growth develops is a
simple method of blanching, and the edible portion may easily be
increased according to the amount of earthing-up given. Perfect
blanching is of first importance when specimens are wanted for the
exhibition table, and a commencement must be made as soon as the plants
may be said to have thoroughly recovered from the effects of
transplanting.

LETTUCE

Lactuca sativa

The lettuce is the king of salads, and as a cooked vegetable it has its
value; but as it does not compete with the Pea, the Asparagus, or the
Cauliflower, we need not make comparisons, but may proceed to the
consideration of its uses in the uncooked state. Scientific advisers on
diet and health esteem the Lettuce highly for its anti-scorbutic
properties, and especially for its wholesomeness as a corrective. It
supplies the blood with vegetable juices that are needful to accompany
flesh foods when cooked vegetables are unattainable. Our summers are
usually too brief and too cool to permit us to acquire a knowledge of
the real value of the Lettuce, but in Southern Europe and many parts of
the East it becomes a necessary of life, and those large red Lettuces
that are occasionally grown here as curiosities are prized above all
others because of their crisp coolness and refreshing flavour under a
burning sun.

The numerous varieties may, for practical purposes, be grouped in two
classes—Cabbage and Cos Lettuces. They vary greatly in habit and are
adapted for different purposes, the first group being invaluable for
mixed salads at all seasons, but more especially in winter and early
spring; the second group is most serviceable in the summer season, and
is adapted for a simple kind of salad, the leaves being more crisp and
juicy. A certain number of the two classes should be grown in every
garden, both for their great value to appetite and health, and their
elegance on the table, whether plain or dressed. In the selection of
sorts, leading types should be kept in view. Some of the varieties
which have been introduced have no claim to a place in a good list,
because of their coarseness. Although they afford a great bulk of
blanched material, it is too often destitute of flavour, or altogether
objectionable. The best types are tender and delicately flavoured,
representing centuries of cultivation, and the sub varieties of these
types should retain their leading characteristics, though perhaps they
are more hardy and stand longer, and are therefore much to be desired.

Preparation of the Soil.—The Lettuce requires a light, rich soil, but
almost any kind of soil may be so prepared as to insure a fair supply,
and in places where fine Cos Lettuces are not readily obtained, it may
be possible to grow excellent Cabbage varieties in place of them. A
tolerably good garden soil will answer for both classes, and fat stable
manure should be liberally used. The best way to prepare ground for the
summer crop is to select a piece that has been trenched, and go over it
again, laying in a good body of rough green manure, one spade deep, so
that the plant will be put on unmanured ground, but will reach the
manure at the very period when it is needed, by which time contact with
the earth will have rendered it sweet and mellow. By this mode of
procedure the finest growth is secured, and the plants stand well
without bolting, as they, are saved from the distress consequent on
continued dry weather. As regards drought, it must be said that the
red-leaved kinds stand remarkably well in a hot summer, and although
they do not rank high as table Lettuces in this country, were we to
experience a succession of roasting summers they would rise in repute
and be in great demand. Cabbage Lettuces bear drought fairly well, more
especially the diminutive section; but where water is available
Lettuces have as good a claim to a share of it in a dry, hot season, as
any crop in the garden.

Blanching.—A first-class strain of White Cos Lettuce will produce
tender white hearts without being tied, and, as a rule, therefore, the
labour of tying may be saved. The section of which Sutton’s Superb
White Cos is the type may be said to produce better samples without
tying than with this imaginary aid to blanching. The market grower is
still accustomed to tie Lettuces because they are more easily packed
and travel better when tied, but when tying is practised it need not be
done until one or two days before the Lettuces are cut. The coarser
market kinds certainly are improved by tying, and in this case the
operation must be performed when the plants are quite dry, and not more
than ten days in advance of the day on which it is intended to pull
them. The Bath Cos must be tied always, and when well managed the heart
is white, with a pretty touch of pink in the centre.

Spring-sown Lettuces may be forwarded under glass from January to
March, from which time sowings may be made successively in the open
ground. In any and every case the finest Lettuces are obtained by
sowing in the open ground, and leaving the plants to finish in the
seed-bed without being transplanted. It will, of course, occur to the
practical cultivator that the two systems may be combined, so as to
vary the time of turning in, and thus from a single sowing insuring a
longer succession than is possible by one system only. We will suppose
small sowings made of three or four sorts in January or early in
February, and put into a gentle heat to start them. A very little care
will keep them going nicely, and of course they must have light and air
to any extent commensurate with safety. When about three weeks old, it
will be advisable to prick these out into a bed of light rich earth in
frames; or if the season is backward, and they need a little more
nursing, prick them into large shallow boxes, containing two or three
inches of soil, which will be sufficient provided it consists in great
part of decayed manure, kept always moist enough for healthy growing.
The next step will be to plant them out about six inches apart, with a
view to draw a certain number as soon as they are large enough to be
useful, leaving the remainder at nine to twelve inches, taking care to
thin out in time to prevent any leaves overlapping. If Peas are being
grown under glass, a few plants of an early Cabbage variety may be put
out between the rows, or they may be pricked out on the borders of a
Peach-house, in either case spacing the plants nine inches apart.
Successive sowings made in February and March will be treated in the
same way, and will need less nursing. In planting out, it is important
to have the seedlings well hardened, for they are naturally susceptible
to wind and sunshine, and if suddenly exposed to either will be likely
to perish. Again, when first planted out their delicate leaves will
attract all the slugs and snails in the garden, and the discreet way of
acting is to regard a plantation of Lettuce as an extensive vermin
trap, and thus, knowing where the marauders are, to be ready to catch
and kill, or to destroy them by sprinklings of lime, salt, or soot, in
all cases being careful to keep these agents at a reasonable distance
from the plants.

Sowings in the open ground from the end of March onwards should be
made, not on an ordinary seed-bed, but on a plot loaded with rich
manure at one spit deep, and the seed should be put in shallow drills
one foot apart. From the time the young plants are two inches high they
must be drawn freely for ‘Cutting Lettuce,’ or for planting out
elsewhere; this thinning to proceed until a sufficient crop remains to
finish off on the ground. The value of ‘Cutting Lettuce’ is better
understood on the Continent than in this country. The small tender
plants are in daily use, and appear in the salad bowl with Water Cress
and Corn Salad, delicately dressed with delicious flavourings. After
this brief digression it is necessary to add that a crowded Lettuce
crop is an encumbrance to the ground; and one of the evils of the best
system, that of sowing where the crop is to finish, is the tendency of
the cultivator to be timid in the thinning, which should be done with a
bold hand, and in good time.

July and August Sowing.—From sowings made during these months the
supply of Lettuce from the open ground may be extended throughout the
autumn, and even into December or January should the weather prove
favourable. The main conditions essential to success are, the use of
quick-growing varieties, sowing in good soil where the heads are to
mature, and early and severe thinning. The thinnings may be
transplanted if required.

Winter Lettuces are produced and provided for in various ways. In some
places Lettuces stand out the winter without covering, and turn in
early in the spring. But in other districts they seldom survive the
winter without protection, even when the sparrows spare them. The
summer sowings will afford supplies to a late season of the year, and
the crop that remains when frost sets in may be preserved with slight
and rough protection. But for the profitable production of Winter
Lettuces frames are a necessity, and care must be taken not to promote
a strong growth, for after a term of mild winter weather a sudden and
severe frost will probably annihilate those that are in a too thriving
condition. In the least likely places, however, it is well to have a
small plantation of Winter Lettuces in the open, and to give some rough
protection in bad times, as these often prove of great advantage, and
even outlive frame crops which have been allowed to get too forward by
the aid of warmth and a rich soil.

For winter and spring use sowings should commence in August and be
continued, according to requirements, until the middle of October,
after which it is waste of time and seed to sow any more. The August
and September sowings may be made partly on an open border and partly
in frames, but the October sowings must be in frames only, for winter
may overtake them in the seed-leaf. The seedlings must in all cases be
thinned and pricked out as soon as large enough, and should be planted
in fine soil, free from recent manure, being carefully handled to avoid
needless check. Some should be planted in frames on beds of light soil
near the glass, at three inches apart, and when these meet they must be
thinned for the house as may be necessary: the remainder of the
thinnings may be put out on warm borders at six inches, and, if quite
convenient, a crop should be left in the seed-bed at six inches. From
the frames, the supplies will be ready in time to follow those from
late summer sowings, and thus through the winter until the frames are
cleared out for the work of the spring. The frame crop must have plenty
of air, and be kept as hardy as possible, but with moisture enough to
sustain a steady healthy growth. If roughly handled in the planting, or
a little starved in respect of moisture, the plants will rise from the
centre just when they ought to begin to turn in, and the first few days
of warm sunshine will start them in the wrong way. As to those wintered
out, there are many ways of protecting them, and when success has
crowned the effort there will be a crowded plant. It will be necessary,
therefore, to transplant at least half the crop by lifting every other
one. This must be done with care, as though they were worth a guinea
each. By transplanting early in March to a piece of rich light ground
in a warm spot, and doing the work neatly and smartly, the result will
be a valuable crop of early Summer Lettuce, while those that remain
will help through the spring.

Forcing.—Lettuces do not force well; but as they are so constantly in
demand, it is a matter of importance to grow them in every possible
way. Nice promising plants from August and September sowings may be
selected from the frames, and planted on gentle hot-beds from November
to January, and will do well if tenderly lifted. The Commodore Nutt and
Golden Ball are the best of the Cabbage varieties for forcing. The Cos
varieties do not differ much as to forcing, none of them being well
adapted for the purpose; but the Superb White Cos may be brought to
fine condition by taking time enough, so as to make a very moderate
warmth suffice. On sunny days the heat should not exceed 75°; but 65°
is sufficient, with a night temperature of 45°to 50°.

One other method of providing small delicate salading may be adopted to
meet emergencies. On the barrows of itinerant greengrocers in Paris the
thinnings of Lettuce crops form part of the general stock, and in this
country we do not sufficiently utilise this young tender stuff. But we
have now in view the use of Lettuce in a still earlier stage of growth.
By sowing rather thinly in boxes, kept under glass, a dense growth is
produced in a short time which can be cut in the same manner as
Mustard. For this purpose Sutt

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