A voyage to the South Sea
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Title: A voyage to the South Sea
Undertaken by command of His Majesty for the purpose of conveying the bread-fruit tree to the West Indies in His Majesty's ship the Bounty commanded by Lieutenant William Bligh; including an account of the mutiny on board the said ship and the subsequent voyage of part of the crew in the ship's boat from Tofoa, one of the Friendly Islands, to Timor, a Dutch settlement in the East Indies
Author: William Bligh
Release date: March 19, 2005 [eBook #15411]
Most recently updated: December 14, 2020
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/15411
Credits: Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat.
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA ***
Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat.
A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA
BY WILLIAM BLIGH.
A
VOYAGE
TO THE SOUTH SEA,
UNDERTAKEN BY COMMAND OF
HIS MAJESTY,
FOR THE PURPOSE OF
CONVEYING THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE
TO THE WEST INDIES,
IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP THE BOUNTY,
COMMANDED BY
LIEUTENANT WILLIAM BLIGH.
INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE
MUTINY ON BOARD THE SAID SHIP,
AND THE
SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE OF PART OF THE CREW, IN THE SHIP'S BOAT,
FROM TOFOA, ONE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS,
TO TIMOR, A DUTCH SETTLEMENT IN THE EAST INDIES.
THE WHOLE ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS, ETC.
...
PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF THE
LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.
...
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL.
1792.
...
ADVERTISEMENT.
At the time I published the Narrative of the Mutiny on Board the Bounty
it was my intention that the preceding part of the Voyage should be
contained in a separate account. This method I have since been induced to
alter. The reason of the Narrative appearing first was for the purpose of
communicating early information concerning an event which had attracted
the public notice: and, being drawn up in a hasty manner, it required
many corrections. Some circumstances likewise were omitted; and the
notation of time used in the Narrative being according to sea reckoning,
in which the days begin and end at noon, must have produced a degree of
obscurity and confusion to readers accustomed only to the civil mode. And
this would have increased as the remainder of the voyage, on account of
the numerous shore occurrences at Otaheite and elsewhere, could not, with
clearness and propriety, have been related in any other than the usual
manner of reckoning.
Besides remedying these inconveniencies I have thought a fuller account
of our passage from Timor to Europe than that contained in the Narrative
would not be unacceptable. These reasons, with the manifest convenience
of comprising the whole Voyage in one continued narrative, in preference
to letting it appear in disjointed accounts will, it is hoped, be allowed
a sufficient excuse for having varied from the original intention.
Nevertheless for the accommodation of the purchasers of the Narrative
already published those who desire it will be supplied with the other
parts of the Voyage separate; i.e. the part previous to the mutiny and
the additional account after leaving Timor.
...
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER 1.
Plan of the Expedition.
Outfit and Occurrences to the time of leaving England.
Description of the Breadfruit.
CHAPTER 2.
Departure from England.
Arrival at Tenerife.
Sail from thence.
Arrival off Cape Horn.
Severity of the Weather.
Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.
CHAPTER 3.
Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after Tristan da Cunha.
Arrival at False Bay.
Occurrences there.
Reports concerning the Grosvenor's People.
Departure from the Cape.
CHAPTER 4.
Passage towards Van Diemen's Land.
Make the Island of St. Paul.
Arrival in Adventure Bay.
Natives seen.
Sail from Van Diemen's Land.
CHAPTER 5.
Rocky Islands discovered.
See the Island Maitea and arrive at Otaheite.
Ship crowded by the Natives.
CHAPTER 6.
Account of an English Ship lately sailed from Otaheite.
Death of Omai.
Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.
Otoo visits the Ship.
His Visit returned.
Natives well disposed towards us.
Account of the Cattle left by Captain Cook.
Breadfruit plants promised.
Visit to the Earee Rahie.
Presents made to the Arreoys.
CHAPTER 7.
A theft committed.
Deception of the painted Head.
Conversation with a Priest.
A Wrestling Match.
Reports of the Natives concerning other Islands.
Some Account of Omai.
CHAPTER 8.
Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.
Extraordinary domestic Arrangements.
Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.
A Sheep brought from Ulietea.
Heavy Storm.
Death of the Surgeon.
Taowne and Toahroah Harbours examined.
CHAPTER 9.
A Walk into the Country.
The Peeah Roah.
Prevailed on by the Kindness of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.
Breadfruit Plants collected.
Move the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.
Fishing.
Three of the Ship's Company desert.
Indiscretion of our People on Shore.
Instances of Jealousy.
Mourning.
Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.
The Deserters recovered.
Tinah proposes to visit England.
CHAPTER 10.
The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.
Coolness with the Chiefs on that Account.
Visit to an old Lady.
Disturbance at a Heiva.
Tinah's Hospitality.
A Thief taken and punished.
Preparations for sailing.
CHAPTER 11.
Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa.
A Present delivered by Tinah for his Majesty.
Other Occurrences to the Time of the Ship's Departure from Otaheite.
CHAPTER 12.
At the Island Huaheine.
A Friend of Omai visits the Ship.
Leave the Society Islands.
A Water-spout.
The Island Whytootackee discovered.
Anchor in Annamooka Road.
Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives.
Sail from Annamooka.
The Chiefs detained on board.
Part friendly.
CHAPTER 13.
A Mutiny in the Ship.
CHAPTER 14.
Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.
Difficulty in obtaining Supplies there.
Treacherous Attack of the Natives.
Escape to Sea and bear away for New Holland.
CHAPTER 15.
Passage towards New Holland.
Islands discovered in our Route.
Our great Distresses.
See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through them.
CHAPTER 16.
Progress to the Northward along the Coast of New Holland.
Land on different Islands in search of Supplies.
CHAPTER 17.
Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.
Arrive at Coupang.
Reception there.
CHAPTER 18.
At Coupang.
CHAPTER 19.
From Timor to Batavia.
CHAPTER 20.
Occurrences at Batavia and Passage thence to England.
...
(LIST OF THE PLATES.
Head of Lieutenant Bligh.
Plan and profile of the deck of the Bounty.
Sections of the Breadfruit.
Plan of Toahroah harbour.
Copy of the draught from which the Bounty's launch was built.
Chart of Islands discovered from the launch.
Chart of part of the north-east coast of New Holland.
Chart of the track of the launch from Tofoa to Timor.)
...
A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ETC.
CHAPTER 1.
Plan of the Expedition.
Outfit and Occurrences to the time of leaving England.
Description of the Breadfruit.
1787.
The King having been graciously pleased to comply with a request from the
merchants and planters interested in his Majesty's West India possessions
that the breadfruit tree might be introduced into those islands, a vessel
proper for the undertaking was bought and taken into dock at Deptford to
be provided with the necessary fixtures and preparations for executing
the object of the voyage. These were completed according to a plan of my
much honoured friend, Sir Joseph Banks, which in the event proved the
most advantageous that could have been adopted for the intended purpose.
August 16.
The ship was named the Bounty: I was appointed to command her on the 16th
of August 1787. Her burthen was nearly two hundred and fifteen tons; her
extreme length on deck ninety feet ten inches; extreme breadth
twenty-four feet three inches; and height in the hold under the beams at
the main hatchway ten feet three inches. In the cockpit were the cabins
of the surgeon, gunner, botanist, and clerk, with a steward-room and
storerooms. The between decks was divided in the following manner: the
great cabin was appropriated for the preservation of the plants and
extended as far forward as the after hatchway. It had two large
skylights, and on each side three scuttles for air, and was fitted with a
false floor cut full of holes to contain the garden-pots in which the
plants were to be brought home. The deck was covered with lead, and at
the foremost corners of the cabin were fixed pipes to carry off the water
that drained from the plants into tubs placed below to save it for future
use. I had a small cabin on one side to sleep in, adjoining to the great
cabin, and a place near the middle of the ship to eat in. The bulk-head
of this apartment was at the after-part of the main hatchway, and on each
side of it were the berths of the mates and midshipmen; between these
berths the arm-chest was placed. The cabin of the master, in which was
always kept the key of the arms, was opposite to mine. This particular
description of the interior parts of the ship is rendered necessary by
the event of the expedition.
The ship was masted according to the proportion of the navy; but on my
application the masts were shortened, as I thought them too much for her,
considering the nature of the voyage.
September 3.
On the 3rd of September the ship came out of dock; but the carpenters and
joiners remained on board much longer, as they had a great deal of work
to finish.
The next material alteration made in the fitting out was lessening the
quantity of iron and other ballast. I gave directions that only nineteen
tons of iron should be taken on board instead of the customary proportion
which was forty-five tons. The stores and provisions I judged would be
fully sufficient to answer the purpose of the remainder; for I am of
opinion that many of the misfortunes which attend ships in heavy storms
of wind are occasioned by too much dead weight in their bottoms.
The establishment of men and officers for the ship were as follows:
1 Lieutenant to command.
1 Master.
1 Boatswain.
1 Gunner.
1 Carpenter.
1 Surgeon.
2 Master's Mates.
2 Midshipmen.
2 Quartermasters.
1 Quartermaster's Mate.
1 Boatswain's Mate.
1 Gunner's Mate.
1 Carpenter's Mate.
1 Carpenter's Crew.
1 Sailmaker.
1 Armourer.
1 Corporal.
1 Clerk and Steward.
23 Able Seamen.
---
44.
Two skilful and careful men were appointed, at Sir Joseph Banks's
recommendation, to have the management of the plants intended to be
brought home: the one, David Nelson, who had been on similar employment
in Captain Cook's last voyage; the other, William Brown, as an assistant
to him. With these two our whole number amounted to forty-six.
It was proposed that our route to the Society Islands should be round
Cape Horn; and the greatest dispatch became necessary as the season was
already far advanced: but the shipwrights not being able to complete
their work by the time the ship was ready in other respects, our sailing
was unavoidably retarded.
October. Thursday 4.
However by the 4th of October the pilot came on board to take us down the
river.
Tuesday 9.
On the 9th we fell down to Long Reach where we received our gunner's
stores and guns, four four-pounders and ten swivels.
The ship was stored and victualled for eighteen months. In addition to
the customary allowance of provisions we were supplied with sourkraut,
portable soup, essence of malt, dried malt, and a proportion of barley
and wheat in lieu of oatmeal. I was likewise furnished with a quantity of
ironwork and trinkets to serve in our intercourse with the natives in the
South Seas: and from the board of Longitude I received a timekeeper, made
by Mr. Kendal.
Monday 15.
On the 15th I received orders to proceed to Spithead.
November. Sunday 4.
But the winds and weather were so unfavourable that we did not arrive
there till the 4th of November. On the 24th I received from Lord Hood,
who commanded at Spithead, my final orders. The wind, which for several
days before had been favourable, was now turned directly against us.
Wednesday 28.
On the 28th the ship's company received two months pay in advance, and on
the following morning we worked out to St. Helen's, where we were obliged
to anchor.
1787. December. Sunday 23.
We made different unsuccessful attempts to get down Channel, but contrary
winds and bad weather constantly forced us back to St. Helen's, or
Spithead, until Sunday the 23rd of December when we sailed with a fair
wind.
During our stay at Spithead, the rate of the timepiece was several times
examined by Mr. Bailey's observations at the Portsmouth observatory. On
the 19th of December, the last time of its being examined on shore, it
was 1 minute 52 seconds, 5 too fast for meantime, and then losing at the
rate of 1 second, 1 per day; and at this rate I estimate its going when
we sailed.
The object of all the former voyages to the South Seas undertaken by the
command of his present majesty, has been the advancement of science and
the increase of knowledge. This voyage may be reckoned the first the
intention of which has been to derive benefit from those distant
discoveries. For the more fully comprehending the nature and plan of the
expedition, and that the reader may be possessed of every information
necessary for entering on the following sheets, I shall here lay before
him a copy of the instructions I received from the admiralty, and
likewise a short description of the breadfruit.
BY THE COMMISSIONERS FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD HIGH ADMIRAL OF
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, ETC.
Whereas the king, upon a representation from the merchants and planters
interested in his Majesty's West India possessions that the introduction
of the breadfruit tree into the islands of those seas, to constitute an
article of food, would be of very essential benefit to the inhabitants,
hath, in order to promote the interests of so respectable a body of his
subjects (especially in an instance which promises general advantage)
thought fit that measures should be taken for the procuring some of those
trees, and conveying them to the said West India islands: And whereas the
vessel under your command hath, in consequence thereof, been stored and
victualled for that service, and fitted with proper conveniences and
necessaries for the preservation of as many of the said trees as, from
her size, can be taken on board her; and you have been directed to
receive on board her the two gardeners named in the margin, David Nelson,
and William Brown, who, from their knowledge of trees and plants, have
been hired for the purpose of selecting such as shall appear to be of a
proper species and size:
You are, therefore, in pursuance of his majesty's pleasure, signified to
us by Lord Sydney, one of his principal secretaries of state, hereby
required and directed to put to sea in the vessel you command, the first
favourable opportunity of wind and weather, and proceed with her, as
expeditiously as possible, round Cape Horn, to the Society Islands,
situate in the Southern ocean, in the latitude of about eighteen degrees
south, and longitude of about two hundred and ten degrees east from
Greenwich, where, according to the accounts given by the late Captain
Cook, and persons who accompanied him during his voyages, the breadfruit
tree is to be found in the most luxuriant state.
Having arrived at the above-mentioned islands, and taken on board as many
trees and plants as may be thought necessary (the better to enable you to
do which, you have already been furnished with such articles of
merchandise and trinkets as it is supposed will be wanted to satisfy the
natives) you are to proceed from thence through Endeavour Straits (which
separate New Holland from New Guinea) to Prince's Island in the Straits
of Sunda, or, if it should happen to be more convenient, to pass on the
eastern side of Java to some port on the north side of that island, where
any breadfruit trees which may have been injured, or have died, may be
replaced by mangosteens, duriens, jacks, nancas, lanfas, and other fine
fruit trees of that quarter, as well as the rice plant which grows upon
dry land; all of which species (or such of them as shall be judged most
eligible) you are to purchase on the best terms you can from the
inhabitants of that island with the ducats with which you have also been
furnished for that purpose; taking care however, if the rice plants
above-mentioned cannot be procured at Java, to touch at Prince's Island
for them, where they are regularly cultivated.
From Prince's Island, or the Island of Java, you are to proceed round the
Cape of Good Hope to the West Indies (calling on your way thither at any
places which may be thought necessary) and deposit one half of such of
the above-mentioned trees and plants as may be then alive at his
majesty's botanical garden at St. Vincent, for the benefit of the
Windward Islands, and then go on to Jamaica: and, having delivered the
remainder to Mr. East, or such person or persons as may be authorised by
the governor and council of that island to receive them, refreshed your
people, and received on board such provisions and stores as may be
necessary for the voyage, make the best of your way back to England;
repairing to Spithead, and sending to our secretary an account of your
arrival and proceedings.
And whereas you will receive herewith a copy of the instructions which
have been given to the above-mentioned gardeners for their guidance, as
well as in procuring the said trees and plants, and the management of
them after they shall be put on board, as for bringing to England a small
sample of each species, and such others as may be prepared by the
superintendent of the botanical garden at St. Vincent's, and by the said
Mr. East, or others, for his majesty's garden at Kew; you are hereby
required and directed to afford, and to give directions to your officers
and company to afford, the said gardeners every possible aid and
assistance, not only in the collecting of the said trees and plants at
the places before mentioned, but for their preservation during their
conveyance to the places of their destination.
Given under our hands the 20th November 1787.
HOWE,
CHARLES BRETT,
RD. HOPKINS,
J. LEVESON GOWER.
To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding his majesty's armed vessel the
Bounty at Spithead.
By command of their Lordships,
P. STEPHENS.
...
In the foregoing orders it is to be observed that I was particularly
directed to proceed round Cape Horn but, as the season was so far
advanced and we were so long detained by contrary winds, I made
application to the Admiralty for discretional orders on that point; to
which I received the following answer:
BY THE COMMISSIONERS FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD HIGH ADMIRAL OF
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, ETC. ETC.
The season of the year being now so far advanced as to render it probable
that your arrival with the vessel you command on the southern coast of
America will be too late for your passing round Cape Horn without much
difficulty and hazard, you are in that case at liberty (notwithstanding
former orders) to proceed in her to Otaheite, round the Cape of Good
Hope.
Given under our hands the 18th December 1787.
HOWE,
CHARLES BRETT,
BAYHAM.
To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding His Majesty's armed vessel
Bounty, Spithead.
By command of their Lordships,
P. Stephens.
...
The Breadfruit is so well known and described that to attempt a new
account of it would be unnecessary and useless. However as it may
contribute to the convenience of the reader I have given the following
extracts respecting it with the plate annexed.
EXTRACT FROM THE ACCOUNT OF DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD PERFORMED IN
1688.
The breadfruit (as we call it) grows on a large tree, as big and high as
our largest apple-trees: It hath a spreading head, full of branches and
dark leaves. The fruit grows on the boughs like apples; it is as big as a
penny-loaf when wheat is at five shillings the bushel; it is of a round
shape, and hath a thick tough rind. When the fruit is ripe it is yellow
and soft, and the taste is sweet and pleasant. The natives of Guam use it
for bread. They gather it, when full-grown, while it is green and hard;
then they bake it in an oven, which scorches the rind and makes it black;
but they scrape off the outside black crust, and there remains a tender
thin crust; and the inside is soft, tender, and white like the crumb of a
penny-loaf. There is NEITHER SEED NOR STONE in the inside, but all is of
a pure substance, like bread. It must be eaten new; for, if it is kept
above twenty-four hours, it grows harsh and choaky; but it is very
pleasant before it is too stale. This fruit lasts in season EIGHT MONTHS
in the year, during which the natives eat NO OTHER SORT OF FOOD OF BREAD
KIND. I did never see of this fruit anywhere but here. The natives told
us that there is plenty of this fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone
islands; and I DID NEVER HEAR OF IT ANYWHERE ELSE. Volume 1 page 296.
...
EXTRACT FROM THE ACCOUNT OF LORD ANSON'S VOYAGE, PUBLISHED BY MR. WALTER.
There was at Tinian a kind of fruit, peculiar to these (Ladrone) islands,
called by the Indians rhymay, but by us the breadfruit; for it was
constantly eaten by us, during our stay upon the island, * instead of
bread; and so UNIVERSALLY PREFERRED that no ship's bread was expended in
that whole interval. It grew upon a tree which is somewhat lofty, and
which towards the top divides into large and spreading branches. The
leaves of this tree are of a remarkable deep green, are notched about the
edges, and are generally from a foot to eighteen inches in length. The
fruit itself is found indifferently on all parts of the branches; it is
in shape rather elliptical than round; it is covered with a tough rind
and is usually seven or eight inches long; each of them grows singly and
not in clusters. This fruit is fittest to be used when it is full-grown
but still green; in which state, after it is properly prepared by being
roasted in the embers, its taste has some distant resemblance to that of
an artichoke's bottom, and its texture is not very different, for it is
soft and spongy.
(*Footnote. About two months, namely from the latter end of August to the
latter end of October, 1742.)
...
EXTRACTS FROM THE ACCOUNT OF THE FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK.
HAWKESWORTH, VOLUME 2.
IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.
The breadfruit grows on a tree that is about the size of a middling oak;
its leaves are frequently a foot and a half long, of an oblong shape,
deeply sinuated like those of the fig-tree, which they resemble in
consistence and colour, and in the exuding of a white milky juice upon
being broken. The fruit is about the size and shape of a child's head,
and the surface is reticulated not much unlike a truffle: it is covered
with a thin skin, and has a core about as big as the handle of a small
knife. The eatable part lies between the skin and the core; it is as
white as snow, and somewhat of the consistence of new bread: it must be
roasted before it is eaten, being first divided into three or four parts.
Its taste is insipid, with a slight sweetness somewhat resembling that of
the crumb of wheaten bread mixed with a Jerusalem artichoke.
Pages 80, 81. See also the plate there and at page 232.
Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already as serving them
for food, the principal is the breadfruit, to procure which costs them no
trouble or labour but climbing a tree. The tree which produces it does
not indeed shoot up spontaneously, but if a man plants ten of them in his
lifetime, which he may do in about an hour, he will as completely fulfil
his duty to his own and future generations as the native of our less
temperate climate can do by ploughing in the cold winter, and reaping in
the summer's heat, as often as these seasons return; even if, after he
has procured bread for his present household, he should convert a surplus
into money, and lay it up for his children.
It is true indeed that the breadfruit is not always in season; but
coconuts, bananas, plantains, and a great variety of other fruits supply
the deficiency. Page 197.
EXTRACT FROM THE ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK'S LAST VOYAGE.
IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.
I (Captain Cook) have inquired very carefully into their manner of
cultivating the breadfruit tree at Otaheite; but was always answered that
they never planted it. This indeed must be evident to everyone who will
examine the places where the young trees come up. It will be always
observed that they spring from the roots of the old ones which run along
near the surface of the ground. So that the breadfruit trees may be
reckoned those that would naturally cover the plains, even supposing that
the island was not inhabited, in the same manner that the white-barked
trees, found at Van Diemen's Land, constitute the forests there. And from
this we may observe that the inhabitant of Otaheite, instead of being
obliged to plant his bread, will RATHER be under the necessity of
preventing its progress; which I suppose is sometimes done to give room
for trees of another sort, to afford him some variety in his food. Volume
2 page 145.
IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
The breadfruit trees are planted, and flourish with great luxuriance, on
rising grounds. Where the hills rise almost perpendicularly in a great
variety of peaked forms, their steep sides and the deep chasms between
them are covered with trees, amongst which those of the breadfruit were
observed particularly to abound. Volume 3 pages 105 and 114, containing
Captain King's Narrative.
The climate of the Sandwich Islands differs very little from that of the
West India Islands, which lie IN THE SAME LATITUDE. Upon the whole
perhaps it may be rather more temperate. Captain King ib page 116.
The breadfruit trees thrive in these islands, not in such abundance, but
produce double the quantity of fruit they do on the rich plains of
Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the same height, but the branches begin
to strike out from the trunk much lower, and with greater luxuriance.
Captain King ib page 120.
CHAPTER 2.
Departure from England.
Arrival at Tenerife.
Sail from thence.
Arrival off Cape Horn.
Severity of the Weather.
Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.
1787. December. Sunday 23.
On Sunday morning the 23rd of December 1787 we sailed from Spithead and,
passing through the Needles, directed our course down channel with a
fresh gale of wind at east. In the afternoon one of the seamen, in
furling the main-top-gallant-sail, fell off the yard and was so fortunate
as to save himself by catching hold of the main-top-mast-stay in his
fall. At night the wind increased to a strong gale with a heavy sea.
Tuesday 25.
It moderated however on the 25th and allowed us to keep our Christmas
with cheerfulness; but the following day it blew a severe storm of wind
from the eastward, which continued till the 29th, in the course of which
we suffered greatly. One sea broke away the spare yards and spars out of
the starboard main chains. Another heavy sea broke into the ship and
stove all the boats. Several casks of beer that had been lashed upon deck
were broke loose and washed overboard, and it was not without great
difficulty and risk that we were able to secure the boats from being
washed away entirely.
Saturday 29.
On the 29th we were in latitude 39 degrees 35 minutes north and longitude
14 degrees 26 minutes west when the gale abated and the weather became
fair. Besides other mischief done to us by the storm, a large quantity of
our bread was damaged and rendered useless, for the sea had stove in our
stern and filled the cabin with water. From this time to our arrival at
Tenerife we had moderate weather and winds mostly from the northward.
1788. January.
January 4.
This forenoon we spoke a French ship bound to the Mauritius.
Saturday 5. Tenerife.
The next day at nine in the forenoon we saw the island of Tenerife
bearing west-south-west half west about twelve leagues distant. It was
covered with a thick haze except the north-westernmost part which is a
remarkable headland, resembling a horse's head, the ears very distinct.
To the eastward of this head* lie two round rocks, the northern boundary
of Tenerife. I had a good observation at noon by which I make the
latitude of the two rocks 28 degrees 44 minutes north and their longitude
by our timekeeper 16 degrees 5 minutes west. To the southward of these
and near the shore is a high needle rock: about four leagues farther to
the southward the coast inclines towards the west to the road of Santa
Cruz, where we anchored at half-past nine on Sunday morning in
twenty-five fathoms water, and moored along shore in the same depth, with
the cupola tower of the church of St. Francis bearing west half north one
mile, the east part of the road east by north, the castle on the south
point south-west, and the west part of the Grand Canary south-south-east.
A Spanish packet bound to Corunna, an American brig, and several other
vessels, were lying here.
(*Footnote. South 82 degrees east by the compass.)
As soon as the ship was anchored I sent an officer (Mr. Christian) to
wait on the governor and to acquaint him I had put in to obtain
refreshments and to repair the damages we had sustained in bad weather.
To this I had a very polite answer from the governor, * that I should be
supplied with whatever the island afforded. I had also directed the
officer to acquaint him that I would salute, provided an equal number of
guns were to be returned but, as I received an extraordinary answer to
this part of my message, purporting that his excellency did not return
the same number but to persons equal in rank to himself, this ceremony
was omitted.
(*Footnote. Marquis de Brancheforte.)
During this interval I was visited by the port-master (Captain Adams) and
shortly afterwards several officers came on board from his excellency to
compliment me on my arrival. As soon as the ship was moored I went on
shore and paid my respects to him.
Monday 7.
On Monday morning I began to forward the ship's business with the utmost
dispatch, and gave the necessary directions to Messrs. Collogan and sons,
the contractors, for the supplies I wanted. I also got leave of the
governor for Mr. Nelson to range the hills and examine the country in
search of plants and natural curiosities.
As there was a great surf on the shore I bargained for everything I
wanted to be brought off by the shore boats, and agreed to give five
shillings per ton for water. Very good wine was bought at ten pounds per
pipe, the contract price; but the superior quality was fifteen pounds;
and some of this was not much inferior to the best London Madeira. I
found this was an unfavourable season for other refreshments: Indian
corn, potatoes, pumpkins, and onions, were all very scarce and double the
price of what they are in summer. Beef also was difficult to be procured
and exceedingly poor; the price nearly sixpence farthing per pound. The
corn was three current dollars per fanega, which is full five shillings
per bushel; and biscuit at twenty-five shillings for the hundred pounds.
Poultry was so scarce that a good fowl cost three shillings. This is
therefore not a place for ships to expect refreshments at a reasonable
price at this time of the year, wine excepted; but from March to November
supplies are plentiful, particularly fruit, of which at this time we
could procure none except a few dried figs and some bad oranges.
NAUTICAL REMARKS.
During our stay here the weather was fair with north-east winds and calms
and small drizzling rain in the night. The thermometer from 66 to 69
degrees at noon in the shade. I could make no lunar observations for the
longitude, but by the help of the timekeeper I have computed the
situation of the town of Santa Cruz to be 28 degrees 28 minutes north
latitude and 16 degrees 18 minutes west longitude. I observed the
variation by two compasses to be 20 degrees 1 minute west: this much
exceeded what I could have imagined; for in 1776 I observed it only 14
degrees 40 minutes west; a difference of above five degrees in eleven
years: and this makes me reflect on the uncertainty of obtaining the
exact deviation of the magnetic pole, and of course its annual variation
which never can be accurately ascertained unless the observations are
made always in one spot and with the same compass.
Tenerife, though considerably without the tropic, is so nearly within the
limits of the tradewind that navigators generally steer to it from the
eastward. The road of Santa Cruz lies on the east side of the island, at
the end of a range of craggy hills, barren and very lofty, along with you
sail west by south by compass into the road, with a sea unfathomable
until near the shore. The anchoring ground may be accounted from fifty
fathoms to twenty, or even fifteen. The bank is very steep and gives but
little time to sound; for which reason it should be done effectually with
a heavy lead, or a ship will be too near in before a stranger is aware of
it: he will likewise too soon expect to find bottom, owing to the great
deception of the adjacent high land. To obviate these difficulties it is
necessary to observe that while a town which lies some distance to the
southward of Santa Cruz is open with the castle on the south part of the
road, though you may appear near to the shore, there is no anchorage; but
after it is shut entirely in you get on the bank. The church bearing west
or west by south and the south point of the road south-west half south to
south-west by west is a good situation for anchoring: the depth about
twenty-five fathoms. The distance from the shore will be three quarters
of a mile; and the southernmost land that can be seen then will be a half
or quarter point of the compass farther out than the south point of the
road.
The bottom is black soft mud, with some patches of rocks; for which
reason vessels that lie here any length of time buoy their cables. This
precaution, besides being useful in that particular, they think makes
them ride more easy when there is much sea setting into the road, which,
with the wind any way to the southward of east or at south-west, must be
very considerable; it is therefore usual to moor with four anchors,
though more than two are scarce ever of use. Mooring is however advisable
if a ship is only to remain twenty-four hours, and the tighter the
better, that the cables may keep clear of the ground.
The landing on the beach is generally impracticable with our own boats,
at least without great risk; but there is a very fine pier on which
people may land without difficulty if there is not much swell in the
road. To this pier the water is conveyed by pipes for the use of
shipping, and for which all merchant-ships pay.
There is a degree of wretchedness and want among the lower class of
people which is not anywhere so common as among the Spanish and
Portuguese settlements. To alleviate these evils the present governor of
Tenerife has instituted a most charitable society which he takes the
trouble to superintend; and by considerable contributions a large airy
dwelling that contains one hundred and twenty poor girls and as many men
and boys has been built and endowed with a sufficiency of land round it,
not only for all present purposes but for enlarging the building for more
objects of charity as their funds increase. I had the honour to be shown
by his excellency this asylum (Hospicio they call it) where there
appeared in every countenance the utmost cheerfulness and content. The
decency and neatness of the dress of the young females, with the order in
which they were arranged at their spinning-wheels and looms in an
extensive airy apartment, was admirable. A governess inspected and
regulated all their works, which were the manufacturing of ribbons of all
colours, coarse linens, and tapes; all which were managed and brought to
perfection by themselves from the silk and flax in their first state;
even the dying of the colours is performed by them. These girls are
received for five years, at the end of which they are at liberty to
marry, and have for their portions their wheel and loom, with a sum of
money proportioned to the state of the fund, which is assisted by the
produce of their labour, and at this time was estimated at two thousand
dollars per annum.
The men and boys are not less attended to: they are employed in coarser
work, blanketing and all kinds of common woollens: if they become infirm
they spend the remainder of their days here comfortably and under a
watchful inspector who attends them in the same manner as the governess
does the girls. They are all visited every day by the governor, and a
clergyman attends them every evening. By this humane institution a number
of people are rendered useful and industrious in a country where the
poor, from the indulgence of the climate, are too apt to prefer a life of
inactivity, though attended with wretchedness, to obtaining the comforts
of life by industry and labour.
The number of inhabitants in the island I was informed were estimated at
between eighty and one hundred thousand. Their annual export of wine is
twenty thousand pipes and of brandy half that quantity. Vessels are
frequently here from St. Eustatia, and from thence a great quantity of
Tenerife wine is carried to the different parts of the West Indies, under
the name of Madeira.
Tenerife is considered of more value than all the other Canaries: the
inhabitants however, in scarce seasons, receive supplies from the Grand
Canary; but their vineyards here are said to be greatly superior. Their
produce of corn, though exceedingly good, is not sufficient for their
consumption; and owing to this the Americans have an advantageous trade
here for their flour and grain, and take wine in return.
The town of Santa Cruz is about half a mile in extent each way, built in
a regular manner, and the houses in general large and airy, but the
streets are very ill paved. I am told that they are subject to few
diseases; but if any epidemic distemper breaks out it is attended with
the most fatal consequences, particularly the smallpox, the bad effects
of which they now endeavour to counteract by inoculation. For this reason
they are very circumspect in admitting ships to have communication with
the shore without bills of health.
A sloop from London, called the Chance, William Meridith, master, bound
to Barbados, out nineteen days from the Downs, came into the road the day
before we sailed. She had suffered much by the bad weather but, having
brought no bill of health, the governor would not allow any person to
come on shore unless I could vouch for them that no epidemic disease
raged in England at the time they sailed, which I was able to do, it
being nearly at the same time that I left the land; and by that means
they had the governor's permission to receive the supplies they wanted
without being obliged to perform quarantine.
Thursday 10.
Having finished our business at Tenerife on Thursday the 10th we sailed
with the wind at south-east, our ship's company all in good health and
spirits.
I now divided the people into three watches, and gave the charge of the
third watch to Mr. Fletcher Christian, one of the mates. I have always
considered this as a desirable regulation when circumstances will admit
of it on many accounts; and am persuaded that unbroken rest not only
contributes much towards the health of a ship's company but enables them
more readily to exert themselves in cases of sudden emergency.
As it was my wish to proceed to Otaheite without stopping I ordered
everybody to be at two-thirds allowance of bread: I also directed the
water for drinking to be filtered though dripstones that I had bought at
Tenerife for that purpose.
In the evening we passed the south end of Tenerife which is a round lump
of land that, from the lowness of the contiguous land, has at a distance
the appearance of a separate island. By our run from the bay of Santa
Cruz I make the latitude of the south end of Tenerife to be 28 degrees 6
minutes north.
We ran all night towards the south-south-west having the wind at
south-east. The next morning we could see nothing of the land. I now made
the ship's company acquainted with the intent of the voyage and, having
been permitted to hold out this encouragement to them, I gave assurances
of the certainty of promotion to everyone whose endeavours should merit
it.
The winds for some days after leaving Tenerife were mostly from the
southward. Fishing-lines and tackle were distributed amongst the people
and some dolphins were caught.
Thursday 17.
On the 17th the wind came round to the north-east and continued steady in
that quarter till the 25th on which day at noon we were in 3 degrees 54
minutes north. As the cloudiness of the sky gave us reason to expect much
rain we prepared the awnings with hoses for the convenience of saving
water, in which we were not disappointed. From this time to our meeting
with the south-east tradewind we had much wet weather, the air close and
sultry with calms, and light variable winds generally from the southward.
Tuesday 29.
On the 29th there was so heavy a fall of rain that we caught seven
hundred gallons of water.
Thursday 31.
On the 31st, latitude at noon 2 degrees 5 minutes north, found a current
setting to the north-east at the rate of fourteen miles in the
twenty-four hours. The thermometer was at 82 degrees in the shade, and 81
1/2 degrees at the surface of the sea, so that the air and the water were
within half a degree of the same temperature. At eight o'clock in the
evening we observed a violent rippling in the sea about half a mile to
the north-west of us which had very much the appearance of breakers. This
I imagine to have been occasioned by a large school (or multitude) of
fish as it was exactly in the track the ship had passed, so that if any
real shoal had been there we must have seen it at the close of the
evening when a careful lookout was always kept. However if it had
appeared ahead of us instead of astern I should certainly have tacked to
avoid it. To such appearances I attribute the accounts of many shoals
within the tropics which cannot be found anywhere but in maps. Our
latitude at this time was 2 degrees 8 minutes north and longitude 19
degrees 43 minutes west. The next day we had more of these appearances
from the number of schools of fish by which the ship was surrounded.
February. Saturday 2.
This morning we saw a sail to the north-north-west but at too great a
distance to distinguish what she was.
Monday 4.
Had very heavy rain during which we nearly filled all our empty water
casks. So much wet weather, with the closeness of the air, covered
everything with mildew. The ship was aired below with fires and
frequently sprinkled with vinegar; and every little interval of dry
weather was taken advantage of to open all the hatchways, and clean the
ship, and to have all the people's wet things washed and dried.
With this weather and light unsteady winds we advanced but 2 1/2 degrees
in twelve days; at the end of which time we were relieved by the
south-east tradewind which we fell in with on the 6th at noon in latitude
1 degree 21 minutes north and longitude 20 degrees 42 minutes west.
Thursday 7.
The next afternoon we crossed the equinoctial line in longitude 21
degrees 50 minutes west. The weather became fine and the south-east
tradewind was fresh and steady, with which we kept a point free from the
wind and got to the southward at a good rate.
The weather continuing dry we put some of our bread in casks, properly
prepared for its reception, to preserve it from vermin: this experiment
we afterwards found answered exceedingly well.
Saturday 16.
On the 16th at daylight we saw a sail to the southward. The next day we
came up with her and found her to be the British Queen, Simon Paul,
master, from London, bound to the Cape of Good Hope on the whale-fishery.
She sailed from Falmouth the 5th of December, eighteen days before I left
Spithead. By this ship I wrote to England. At sunset she was almost out
of sight astern.
Monday 18.
In the course of this day's run the variation changed from west to east.
According to our observations the true and magnetic meridians coincided
in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes south and longitude 31 degrees 15
minutes west. At noon we were in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes south and
longitude 31 degrees 23 minutes west. In our advances towards the south
the wind had gradually veered round to the east and was at this time at
east-north-east. The weather after crossing the Line had been fine and
clear, but the air so sultry as to occasion great faintness, the
quicksilver in the thermometer in the daytime standing at between 81 and
83 degrees, and one time at 85 degrees. In our passage through the
northern tropic the air was temperate, the sun having then high south
declination and the weather being generally fine till we lost the
north-east tradewind; but such a thick haze surrounded the horizon that
no object could be seen except at a very small distance. The haze
commonly cleared away at sunset and gathered again at sunrise. Between
the north-east and south-east tradewinds the calms and rains, if of long
continuance, are very liable to produce sickness unless great attention
is paid to keeping the ship clean and wholesome by giving all the air
possible, drying between decks with fires, and drying and airing the
people's clothes and bedding. Besides these precautions we frequently
wetted with vinegar, and every evening the pumps were used as
ventilators. With these endeavours to secure health we passed the low
latitudes without a single complaint.
The currents we met with were by no means regular, nor have I ever found
them so in the middle of the ocean. However from the channel to the
southward as far as Madeira there is generally a current setting to the
south-south-east.
Thursday 21.
On the evening of the 21st a ship was seen in the north-east but at too
great a distance to distinguish of what country.
Friday 22.
The next day the wind came round to the north and north-west so that we
could no longer consider ourselves in the tradewind. Our latitude at noon
was 25 degrees 55 minutes south, longitude 36 degrees 29 minutes west.
Variation of the compass three degrees east.
Saturday 23.
Towards night the wind died away and we had some heavy showers of rain of
which we profited by saving a ton of good water. The next day we caught a
shark and five dolphins.
Tuesday 26.
We bent new sails and made other necessary preparations for encountering
the weather that was to be expected in a high latitude. Our latitude at
noon was 29 degrees 38 minutes south, longitude 41 degrees 44 minutes
west. Variation 7 degrees 13 minutes east. In the afternoon, the wind
being westerly and blowing strong in squalls, some butterflies and other
insects like what we call horseflies were blown on board of us. No birds
were seen except shearwaters. Our distance from the coast of Brazil at
this time was above 100 leagues.
March. Sunday 2.
In the forenoon, after seeing that every person was clean, divine service
was performed according to my usual custom on this day. I gave to Mr.
Fletcher Christian, whom I had before directed to take charge of the
third watch, a written order to act as lieutenant.
Saturday 8.
We were at noon in latitude 36 degrees 50 minutes south and longitude 52
degrees 53 minutes west. The last four days we several times tried for
soundings without finding bottom, though considerably to the westward of
Captain Wallis' track, who had soundings at fifty-four fathoms depth in
latitude 35 degrees 40 minutes south and longitude 49 degrees 54 minutes
west. This day we tried with two hundred and forty fathoms of line but
did not find bottom; at the same time, observing a rippling in the water,
we tried the current by mooring a keg with one hundred fathoms of line,
by which it appeared to run to the north-north-west at the rate of a mile
and a half per hour. By the noon observation however we were eighteen
miles to the southward of our reckoning. In the afternoon we saw a turtle
floating and, not having much wind, hoisted a boat out and sent after it;
but it was found to be in a putrid state with a number of crabs feeding
upon it.
The change of temperature began now to be sensibly felt, there being a
variation in the thermometer since yesterday of eight degrees. That the
people might not suffer by their own negligence I gave orders for their
light tropical clothing to be put by, and made them dress in a manner
more suited to a cold climate. I had provided for this before I left
England by giving directions for such clothes to be purchased as were
necessary.
Monday 10.
In the forenoon we struck soundings at eighty-three fathoms depth; our
latitude 40 degrees 8 minutes south and longitude 55 degrees 40 minutes
west. This I conclude to have been near the edge of the bank for, the
wind being at south-south-west, we stood towards the south-east; and
after running fourteen miles in that direction we could find no bottom
with one hundred and sixty fathoms of line. In the night we stood towards
the west-south-west with a southerly wind and got again into soundings.
The next day we saw a great number of whales of an immense size that had
two spout-holes on the back of the head. Upon a complaint made to me by
the master I found it necessary to punish Matthew Quintal, one of the
seamen, with two dozen lashes for insolence and mutinous behaviour.
Before this I had not had occasion to punish any person on board.
Wednesday 12.
On the 12th we caught a porpoise by striking it with the grains. Everyone
eat heartily of it; and it was so well liked that no part was wasted.
Friday 14.
On the 14th in the afternoon we saw a land-bird like a lark, and passed
part of a dead whale that had been left by some whalers after they had
taken the blubber off. Saw likewise two strange sail. The next day at
noon our latitude was 43 degrees 6 minutes south and longitude 58 degrees
42 minutes west. Had soundings at seventy-five fathoms; the bottom a fine
greenish sand. Saw two hawks.
Sunday 16.
On the 16th another ship was seen to the west-north-west standing to the
northward. Latitude at noon 43 degrees 34 minutes south. We continued
running to the southward keeping in soundings.
Wednesday 19.
On the 19th at noon by my account we were within twenty leagues of Port
Desire; but the wind blowing fresh from the north-west with thick foggy
weather I did not attempt to make the land. We passed a good deal of
rock-weed and saw many whales, and albatrosses and other seabirds.
Thursday 20.
On the 20th at noon our latitude was 50 degrees 24 minutes south and
longitude 65 degrees 50 minutes west. In the afternoon the wind, which
had for some time past been northerly, suddenly shifted to the
west-south-west and blew hard.
Sunday 23.
We steered to the south-south-east and on the 23rd at two o'clock in the
morning we discovered the coast of Tierra del Fuego bearing south-east.
At nine in the forenoon we were off Cape St. Diego, the eastern part of
Tierra del Fuego. Observed the variation here to be 21 degrees 23 east.
The wind being unfavourable I thought it more advisable to go round to
the eastward of Staten Land than to attempt passing through Straits le
Maire. The two opposite coasts of the Straits exhibited very different
appearances. The land of Tierra del Fuego hereabouts, though the interior
parts are mountainous, yet near the coast is of a moderate height and, at
the distance we were from it, had not an unpromising appearance. The
coast of Staten Land near the Straits is mountainous and craggy, and
remarkable for its high peaked hills. Straits le Maire is a fair opening
which cannot well be mistaken; but if any doubt could remain, the
different appearances of the opposite shores would sufficiently make the
Straits known.
I did not sail within less than six leagues of the coast that we might
have the wind more regular and avoid being exposed to the heavy squalls
that came off from the land. At noon Cape St. Anthony bore south and the
westernmost of New Year's Isles south-east one-quarter south, five or six
leagues. Latitude observed 54 degrees 28 minutes south, longitude 64
degrees 4 minutes west.
The sight of New Year's Harbour almost tempted me to put in; but the
lateness of the season and the people being in good health determined me
to lay aside all thoughts of refreshment until we should reach Otaheite.
At two o'clock in the afternoon the easternmost of New Year's Isles,
where Captain Cook observed the latitude to be 55 degrees 40 minutes
south, bore from us south four leagues. We saw the entrance isles of New
Year's harbour at the back of which the land is very craggy and
mountainous. This must be a very convenient port to touch at as the
access to it is safe and easy. The harbour lies south-south-east by
compass from the north-east part of the easternmost of the New Year's
Islands.
About two leagues to the westward of Cape St. John I observed the
separation of the mountains that Captain Cook has taken notice of, which
has the appearance of Staten Land being there divided into two islands.
At sunset Cape St. John bore south-south-east five or six leagues. The
land hereabouts is of less height and not so rugged as near New Year's
Harbour. The night coming on I could get no good view of the coast near
the Cape; and at daylight next morning we were at too great a distance.
Monday 24.
We had stood to the southward all night with the wind at west-south-west
and south-west. At eight in the morning Cape St. John bore north-west ten
leagues distant. Soon after we lost sight of the land.
From the result of my lunar observations, assisted by the timekeeper, I
make the longitude of the west side of Straits le Maire 64 degrees 48
minutes west; the easternmost of the New Year's isles 63 degrees 52
minutes west; and the longitude of Cape St. John 63 degrees 19 minutes
west.
In our run from the latitude of 12 degrees south to 48 degrees south the
ship was set 2 degrees 30 minutes to the eastward by currents; and from
the latitude of 48 degrees south to Staten Land the currents set us to
the westward 2 degrees 43 minutes; which I imagine to have been
occasioned by an indraught into the Straits of Magellan.
From the time we lost sight of the land to the end of the month we were
struggling with bad weather and contrary winds.
Monday 31.
But on the morning of the 31st the wind came to the north-north-east and
made us entertain great hopes that we should be able to accomplish our
passage round the Cape without much difficulty. At noon we were in
latitude 60 degrees 1 minute south and in 71 degrees 45 minutes west
longitude, which is 8 degrees 26 minutes west of the meridian of Cape St.
John. This flattering appearance was not of long continuance: in the
night the wind became variable and next day settled again in the west and
north-west with very bad weather.
April. Wednesday 2.
On the 2nd in the morning the wind, which had blown fresh all night from
the north-west, came round to the south-west and increased to a heavy
gale. At six in the morning the storm exceeded what I had ever met with
before; and the sea, from the frequent shifting of the wind, running in
contrary directions, broke exceeding high. Our ship however lay to very
well under a main and fore-stay sail. The gale continued with severe
squalls of hail and sleet the remainder of this and all the next day.
Friday 4.
On the 4th the wind was less violent but far from moderate. With so much
bad weather I found it necessary to keep a constant fire night and day;
and one of the watch always attended to dry the people's wet clothes: and
this I have no doubt contributed as much to their health as to their
comfort.
Our companions in this in hospitable region were albatrosses and two
beautiful kinds of birds, the small blue petrel and pintada. A great many
of these were frequently about the wake of the ship, which induced the
people to float a line with hooks baited to endeavour to catch them and
their attempts were successful. The method they used was to fasten the
bait a foot or two before the hook and, by giving the line a sudden jerk
when the bird was at the bait, it was hooked in the feet or body.
Sunday 6.
On the 6th the weather was moderate and continued so till the 9th with
the wind veering between the north-west and south-west; of which we were
able to take advantage.
Monday 7.
On the 7th observed the variation 27 degrees 9 minutes east; our latitude
60 degrees 24 minutes south and longitude 75 degrees 54 minutes west.
Wednesday 9.
On the 9th at noon we were in latitude 59 degrees 31 minutes south and
our longitude 76 degrees 58 minutes west, which is farther to the west
than we had yet been. The weather was now unfavourable again, blowing
strong from the westward with a high sea.
On the 10th we saw some fish which appeared spotted and about the size of
bonetos: these were the only fish we had seen in this high latitude.
Saturday 12.
The stormy weather continued with a great sea. The ship now began to
complain and required to be pumped every hour; which was no more than we
had reason to expect from such a continuance of gales of wind and high
seas. The decks also became so leaky that it was obliged to allot the
great cabin, of which I made little use except in fine weather, to those
people who had wet berths to hang their hammocks in, and by this means
the between decks was less crowded.
Every morning all the hammocks were taken down from where they hung, and
when the weather was too bad to keep them upon deck they were put in the
cabin; so that the between decks were cleaned daily and aired with fires
if the hatchways could not be opened. With all this bad weather we had
the additional mortification to find at the end of every day that we were
losing ground; for notwithstanding our utmost exertions and keeping on
the most advantageous tacks (which if the weather had been at all
moderate would have sufficiently answered our purpose) yet the greater
part of the time we were doing little better than drifting before the
wind.
Sunday 13.
Birds as usual were about the ship and some of them caught; and for the
first time since we left Staten Land we saw some whales. This morning,
owing to the violent motion of the ship, the cook fell and broke one of
his ribs, and another man, by a fall, dislocated his shoulder. The gunner
who had the charge of a watch was laid up with the rheumatism: and this
was the first sicklist that appeared on board the ship. The time of full
moon which was approaching made me entertain hopes that after that period
we should experience some change of wind or weather in our favour; but
the event did not at all answer our expectations. The latitude at noon
this day was 58 degrees 9 minutes south and longitude 76 degrees 1 minute
west.
As we caught a good many birds but which were all lean and tasted fishy
we tried an experiment upon them which succeeded admirably. By keeping
them cooped up and cramming them with ground corn they improved
wonderfully in a short time; so that the pintada birds became as fine as
ducks, and the albatrosses were as fat, and not inferior in taste to,
fine geese. Some of the latter birds were caught that measured seven feet
between the extremities of the wings when spread. This unexpected supply
came very opportunely; for none of our livestock remained except hogs,
the sheep and poultry not being hardy enough to stand the severity of the
weather.
Sunday 20.
This morning the wind died away and we had a calm for a few hours which
gave us hopes that the next would be a more favourable wind. A hog was
killed for the ship's company which gave them an excellent meal. Towards
noon, to our great disappointment, the wind sprang up again from the
westward and in the afternoon blew strong with snow and hailstorms.
Monday 21.
This was the second day after the full moon but, as I have remarked
before, it had no influence on the weather. At noon our latitude was 58
degrees 31 minutes south and longitude 70 degrees 7 minutes west, which
is near seven degrees to the eastward of our situation on the morning of
the 9th instant, when we had advanced the farthest in our power to the
westward, being then in 76 degrees 58 minutes west, three degrees to the
west of Cape Deseada, the west part of the Straits of Magellan; and at
this time we were 3 degrees 52 minutes to the east of it and hourly
losing ground.
It was with much concern I saw how hopeless and even unjustifiable it was
to persist any longer in attempting a passage this way to the Society
Islands. We had been thirty days in this tempestuous ocean. At one time
we had advanced so far to the westward as to have a fair prospect of
making our passage round; but from that period hard gales of westerly
wind had continued without intermission, a few hours excepted, which, to
borrow an expression in Lord Anson's voyage, were "like the elements
drawing breath to return upon us with redoubled violence." The season was
now too far advanced for us to expect more favourable winds or weather,
and we had sufficiently experienced the impossibility of beating round
against the wind, or of advancing at all without the help of a fair wind
for which there was little reason to hope. Another consideration which
had great weight with me was that, if I persisted in my attempt this way
and should after all fail to get round, it would occasion such a loss of
time that our arrival at Otaheite soon enough to return in the proper
season by the East Indies would be rendered precarious. On the other hand
the prevalence of the westerly winds in high southern latitudes left me
no reason to doubt of making a quick passage to the Cape of Good Hope and
thence to the eastward round New Holland.
Tuesday 22.
Having maturely considered all circumstances I determined to bear away
for the Cape of Good Hope; and at five o'clock on the evening of the
22nd, the wind then blowing strong at west, I ordered the helm to be put
a weather, to the great joy of every person on board. Our sicklist at
this time had increased to eight, mostly with rheumatic complaints: in
other respects the people were in good health, though exceedingly jaded.
The passage round Cape Horn into the South Seas during the summer months
has seldom been attended with difficulty and is to be preferred in the
moderate seasons to the more distant route to the eastward round the Cape
of Good Hope and New Holland. If we had been one month earlier, or
perhaps less, I doubt not but we should have effected our passage.
The soundings that are met with off the coast of America, from the
latitude of 36 degrees south to the southward, are very convenient to
enable ships to judge of their distance from the land, as thick fogs are
very frequent near that coast. If the winds are favourable, to go through
Straits le Maire must considerably shorten the passage round Cape Horn,
as all the distance saved is so much gained to the westward. I am
informed that several harbours have been lately discovered by the South
Sea whalers on the north side of Staten Island that afford safe anchorage
with supplies of wood and water.
While we were off Cape Horn I did not observe that our situation was at
all affected by currents.
CHAPTER 3.
Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after Tristan da Cunha.
Arrival at False Bay.
Occurrences there.
Reports concerning the Grosvenor's People.
Departure from the Cape.
1788. April. Friday 25.
The westerly winds and stormy weather continuing gave me no reason to
repent of my determination. On the 25th at noon we were in latitude 54
degrees 16 minutes south and longitude 57 degrees 4 minutes west. The
nearest of the Falkland Islands by my reckoning then bore north 13
degrees west; distance 23 leagues. Our stock of water being sufficient to
serve us to the Cape of Good Hope I did not think it worth while to stop
at these islands as the refreshment we might obtain there would scarce
repay us for the expense of time: we therefore continued our course
towards the north-east and east-north-east.
May. Friday 9.
On the 9th of May at eight o'clock in the evening we were near the
situation of Tristan da Cunha, our latitude being 37 degrees 7 minutes
south and longitude 15 degrees 26 minutes west. All the afternoon the
weather had been clear enough for land of a moderate height to be seen at
least seven leagues; I therefore concluded that we had not yet passed the
meridian of the island; for the most western position given to it from
any authority is 15 degrees 0 minutes west.
As I wished to make this island we kept our wind on different tacks
during the night, that we might be nearly in the same place at daylight
in the morning as on the preceding evening: in the morning no land being
in sight we continued to steer to the eastward.
Saturday 10.
We ran on all day having clear weather but without seeing anything to
indicate our being near land. At noon our latitude observed was 37
degrees 27 minutes south which, being more to the southward than we had
reason to expect, I altered the course to the northward and steered
north-east all the afternoon. At six o'clock in the evening we were in
latitude 37 degrees 0 minutes south and longitude 12 degrees 42 minutes
west, having a clear horizon but not the least sign of being in the
neighbourhood of land. With the night came thick rainy weather and we
were now to the eastward of the situation ascribed to Tristan da Cunha; I
therefore determined to give over the search and to resume our course
towards the Cape of Good Hope.
The island of Tristan da Cunha, by Robertson's Elements, is laid down in
37 degrees 12 minutes south latitude and 13 degrees 23 minutes west
longitude. In Captain Cook's general map, prefixed to his last voyage, it
is placed in the same latitude but in 15 degrees west longitude. From our
track and the clearness of the weather I am convinced, if the latitude
ascribed to it as above is correct, that it is not to be found between
the meridians of 16 degrees 30 minutes west and 12 degrees 30 minutes
west. On the 13th I had a number of lunar observations for the longitude,
the mean of which agreed exactly with the timekeeper.*
(*Footnote. In Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Plans which I had not with
me the northernmost of the Islands of Tristan d'Acunha is placed in
latitude 37 degrees 22 minutes south and longitude 13 degrees 17 minutes
west. I think it probable we missed them by being too much to the
northward.)
In this passage the weather was generally so cloudy that I had few
opportunities to make observations of any kind except for the noon
latitudes. I could not determine when we crossed the line of no
variation. The two nearest observations to it were: the first in 39
degrees 51 minutes south latitude and 26 degrees 11 minutes west
longitude, where the variation of the compass was found to be 3 degrees
17 minutes east; and the other in latitude 35 degrees 30 minutes south
and longitude 5 degrees 21 minutes west, where I observed the variation
11 degrees 35 minutes west; between these we had no intermediate
observation for the variation.
Thursday 22.
At two in the afternoon we saw the Table Mountain of the Cape of Good
Hope. As it is reckoned unsafe riding in Table Bay at this time of year I
steered for False Bay. The next evening we anchored in the outer part.
Saturday 24.
And on the forenoon of the 24th got the ship secured in Simon's Bay,
which is in the inner part of False Bay. When moored, Noah's ark bore
south 35 degrees east three-quarters of a mile, and the hospital south 72
west. We found lying here one outward bound Dutch Indiaman, five other
Dutch ships, and a French ship.
After saluting the fort, which was returned by an equal number of guns, I
went on shore and dispatches were sent away to Cape Town to acquaint the
governor of our arrival. A Dutch ship at this time lying in Table Bay
bound for Europe, I sent letters by her to the Admiralty. It is very
unusual for ships to be in Table Bay so late in the year, on account of
the strong north-west winds. April is the time limited.
I gave the necessary directions for getting our wants supplied. The ship
required to be caulked in every part for she was become so leaky that we
had been obliged to pump every hour in our passage from Cape Horn. This
we immediately set about, as well as repairing our sails and rigging. The
severe weather we had met with and the leakiness of the ship made it
necessary to examine into the state of all the stores and provisions. Of
the latter a good deal was found damaged, particularly the bread. The
timekeeper I took on shore to ascertain its rate, and other instruments
to make the necessary astronomical observations. Fresh meat, with soft
bread and plenty of vegetables, were issued daily to the ship's company
the whole time we remained here. A few days after our arrival I went over
to Cape Town and waited on his excellency M. Vander Graaf, the governor,
who obligingly arranged matters so much to our advantage that we scarcely
felt the inconvenience of being at a distance from the Cape Town, whence
we received all our supplies.
The Cape Town is considerably increased within the last eight years. Its
respectability with regard to strength has kept pace with its other
enlargements and rendered it very secure against any attempt which is not
made with considerable force. Great attention is paid to military order
and discipline; and monthly signals are established to communicate with
their shipping as they arrive near the coast that they may not run
unawares into the hands of an enemy. I found everything much dearer than
when I was here in 1780. Sheep cost four Spanish dollars each and were so
small that it answered better to purchase the mutton for the ship's daily
use at fourpence per pound.
During our stay here I took care to procure seeds and plants that would
be valuable at Otaheite and the different places we might touch at in our
way thither. In this I was greatly assisted by colonel Gordon, the
commander of the troops. In company with this gentleman the loss of the
Grosvenor East Indiaman was mentioned: on this subject colonel Gordon
expressed great concern that from anything he had said hopes were still
entertained to flatter the affectionate wishes of the surviving friends
of those unfortunate people. He said that in his travels into the Caffre
country he had met with a native who described to him that there was a
white woman among his countrymen who had a child, and that she frequently
embraced the child and cried most violently. This was all he (the
colonel) could understand and, being then on his return home with his
health much impaired by fatigue, the only thing that he could do was to
make a friend of the native by presents and promises of reward on
condition that he would take a letter to this woman and bring him back an
answer. Accordingly he wrote letters in English, French, and Dutch
desiring that some sign or mark might be returned, either by writing with
a burnt stick or by any means she should be able to devise, to satisfy
him that she was there; and that on receiving such token from her every
effort should be made to ensure her safety and escape. But the Caffre,
although apparently delighted with the commission which he had
undertaken, never returned, nor has the colonel ever heard anything more
of him, though he had been instructed in methods of conveying information
through the Hottentot country.
To this account, that I may not again have occasion to introduce so
melancholy a subject, I shall add the little information I received
respecting it when I revisited the Cape in my return towards Europe. A
reputable farmer of the name of Holhousen, who lives at Swellendam, eight
days journey from the Cape, had information from some Caffre Hottentots
that at a kraal or village in their country there were white men and
women. On this intelligence Mr. Holhousen asked permission of the
governor to make an expedition with some of the farmers into the country,
requiring a thousand rix-dollars to bear his expenses. The governor
referred him to Mr. Wocke, the Landros of Graaf Rienet, a new colony in
his way. But from the place where Mr. Holhousen lives to the Landros, Mr.
Wocke's residence, is a month's journey, which he did not choose to
undertake at an uncertainty, as Mr. Wocke might have disapproved of the
enterprise. It was in October last that Mr. Holhousen offered to go on
this service. He was one of the party who went along the sea-coast in
search of these unfortunate people when a few of them first made their
appearance at the Cape. I am however informed that the Dutch farmers are
fond of making expeditions into the country, that they may have
opportunities of taking away cattle; and this I apprehend to be one of
the chief reasons why undertakings of this kind are not encouraged.
On the 13th of June the Dublin East Indiaman arrived from England, on
board of which ship was a party of the 77th regiment under the command of
colonel Balfour.
The result of my lunar observations gave for the longitude of Simon's Bay
18 degrees 48 minutes 34 seconds east; the latitude 34 degrees 11 minutes
34 seconds south. The timekeeper likewise made the longitude 18 degrees
47 minutes east. The longitude as established by former observations is
18 degrees 33 minutes east. The variation of the compass on shore was 24
degrees 4 minutes west; but on board of the ship it was only 22 degrees
28 minutes west. The time of high-water was three-quarters past two on
the full and change and it then flowed six feet.
With respect to the Cape Promontory it lies about three miles east of the
meridian of Simon's Town. All the tables of latitude and longitude place
the Cape in 34 degrees 29 minutes south latitude; but from many
observations off it with good instruments I make it to lie in 34 degrees
23 minutes south, which agrees with its situation as laid down in major
Rennel's map. The part which I call the Cape is the southernmost point of
the land between Table Bay and False Bay; but the Dutch consider the
westernmost part of the coast to be the Cape.
Sunday 29.
On the 29th, being ready for sea, I took the timekeeper and instruments
on board. The error of the timekeeper was 3 minutes 33 seconds, 2 too slow for
the mean time at Greenwich, and its rate of going 3 seconds per day,
losing. The thermometer during our stay here was from 51 to 66 degrees.
July. Tuesday 1.
We had been thirty-eight days at this place, and my people had received
all the advantage that could be derived from the refreshments of every
kind that are here to be met with. We sailed at four o'clock this
afternoon, and saluted the platform with thirteen guns as we ran out of
the bay, which were returned.
CHAPTER 4.
Passage towards Van Diemen's Land.
Make the Island of St. Paul.
Arrival in Adventure Bay.
Natives seen.
Sail from Van Diemen's Land.
1788. July.
We lost sight of the land the day after leaving False Bay and steered
towards the east-south-east, having variable winds the first week with
much thunder, lightning and rain. The remainder of this passage the winds
were mostly between the south and west blowing strong. There were almost
every day great numbers of pintada, albatrosses, blue petrels, and other
oceanic birds about us; but it was observed that if the wind came from
the northward, only for a few hours, the birds generally left us, and
their presence again was the forerunner of a southerly wind.
Sunday 13.
The variation of the compass was 30 degrees 34 minutes west which was the
greatest variation we found in this track. Our latitude 36 degrees 28
minutes south and longitude 39 degrees 0 minutes east.
Sunday 20.
The latitude at noon was 40 degrees 30 minutes south and longitude 60
degrees 7 minutes east. We were at this time scudding under the fore-sail
and close-reefed main-top-sail, the wind blowing strong from the west. An
hour after noon the gale increased and blew with so much violence that
the ship was almost driven forecastle under before we could get the sails
clewed up. As soon as the sails were taken in we brought the ship to the
wind, lowered the lower yards, and got the top-gallant-masts upon deck,
which eased the ship very much.
Monday 21.
We remained lying to till eight the next morning when we bore away under
a reefed fore-sail. In the afternoon the sea ran so high that it became
very unsafe to stand on: we therefore brought to the wind again, and
remained lying to all night without accident excepting that the man at
the steerage was thrown over the wheel and much bruised.
Tuesday 22.
Towards noon the violence of the storm abated and we again bore away
under the reefed fore-sail. Our latitude at noon 38 degrees 49 minutes
south: in the afternoon saw some whales.
We continued running to the eastward in this parallel, it being my
intention to make the island St. Paul.
Monday 28.
On Monday the 28th at six in the morning we saw the island bearing east
by north 12 leagues distant: between 10 and 11 o'clock we ran along the
south side at about a league distant from the shore. There was a verdure
that covered the higher parts of the land, but I believe it was nothing
more than moss which is commonly found on the tops of most rocky islands
in these latitudes. We saw several whales near the shore. The extent of
this island is five miles from east to west; and about two or three from
north to south. As we passed the east end we saw a remarkable high
sugarloaf rock, abreast of which I have been informed is good anchorage
in 23 fathoms, the east point bearing south-west by south by true
compass. I had this information from the captain of a Dutch packet in
which I returned to Europe. He likewise said there was good fresh water
on the island and a hot spring which boiled fish in as great perfection
as on a fire. By his account the latitude which he observed in the road
is 38 degrees 39 minutes south; and from the anchoring place the island
of Amsterdam was in sight to the northward. We had fair weather all the
forenoon, but just at noon a squall came on which was unfavourable for
our observation. I had however two sets of double altitudes and a good
altitude exactly at noon according to the timekeeper. The result of these
gave for the latitude of the centre of St. Paul 38 degrees 47 minutes
south. The longitude I make 77 degrees 39 minutes east. The variation of
the compass, taking the mean of what it was observed to be the day before
we saw the island and the day after, is 19 degrees 30 minutes west.
At noon we were three leagues past the island. We kept on towards the
east-south-east, and for several days continued to see rock-weed, which
is remarked to be generally the case after ships pass St. Paul's; but to
the westward of it very seldom any is seen.
August. Wednesday 13.
In latitude 44 degrees 16 minutes south, longitude 122 degrees 7 minutes
east, I observed the variation of the compass to be 6 degrees 23 minutes
west. I had no opportunity to observe it again till in the latitude of 43
degrees 56 minutes south, longitude 133 degrees 16 minutes east, when it
was 1 degree 38 minutes east; so that we had passed the line of no
variation. In 1780, on board the Resolution in latitude 44 degrees 23
minutes south, longitude 131 degrees 28 minutes east, the variation was
observed 6 degrees 0 minutes west, which is a remarkable difference. We
had much bad weather with snow and hail, and in our approach to Van
Diemen's Land nothing was seen to indicate the nearness of the coast,
except a seal, when we were within the distance of 20 leagues.
Tuesday 19.
At ten o'clock this afternoon we saw the rock named the Mewstone, that
lies near the south-west cape of Van Diemen's Land, bearing north-east
about six leagues. The wind blew strong from the north-west. As soon as
we had passed the Mewstone we were sheltered from a very heavy sea which
ran from the westward. At eight o'clock at night we were abreast of the
south cape when the wind became light and variable. Saw several fires
inland.
The Mewstone is a high bold rock that lies five leagues to the south-east
of the south-west cape and is the part that all ships bound this way
should endeavour to make. Its latitude is 43 degrees 46 or 47 minutes.
Several islands lie to the northward between that and the main, among
which, bearing north by west from the Mewstone, is a high rock much
resembling it; and north-north-east from the Mewstone, on the mainland,
is a remarkable high mountain, which in this direction appears notched
like a cock's comb; but as viewed from the eastward seems round.
Wednesday 20.
All the 20th we were endeavouring to get into Adventure Bay but were
prevented by variable winds. The next morning at five o'clock we anchored
in the outer part, and at sunrise weighed again: at noon we anchored well
in the bay and moored the ship, Penguin Island bearing north 57 1/2
degrees east, about two miles distant; Cape Frederic Henry north 23
degrees east; and the mouth of the Lagoon south 16 degrees east.
In our passage from the Cape of Good Hope the winds were mostly from the
westward with very boisterous weather: but one great advantage that this
season of the year has over the summer months is in being free from fogs.
I have already remarked that the approach of strong southerly winds is
announced by many kinds of birds of the albatross or petrel tribe, and
the abatement of the gale, or a shift of wind to the northward, by their
keeping away. The thermometer also very quickly shows when a change of
these winds may be expected by varying sometimes six and seven degrees in
its height. I have reason to believe that, after we passed the island St.
Paul, there was a westerly current; the ship being every day to the
westward of the reckoning, which in the whole, from St. Paul to Van
Diemen's land, made a difference of four degrees between the longitude by
the reckoning and the true longitude.
Thursday 21.
The ship being moored I went in a boat to look out for the most
convenient place to wood and water at, which I found to be at the west
end of the beach: for the surf, though considerable, was less there than
at any other part of the bay. The water was in a gully about sixty yards
from the beach; it was perfectly good but, being only a collection from
the rains, the place is always dry in the summer months; for we found no
water in it when I was here with Captain Cook in January 1777. We had
very little success in hauling the seine; about twenty small flounders,
and flat-headed fish called foxes were all that were taken.
I found no signs of the natives having lately frequented this bay or of
any European vessels having been here since the Resolution and Discovery
in 1777. From some of the old trunks of trees then cut down I saw shoots
about twenty-five feet high and fourteen inches in circumference.
In the evening I returned on board.
Friday 22.
The next morning, the 22nd, at daylight, a party was sent on shore for
wooding and watering under the command of Mr. Christian and the gunner;
and I directed that one man should be constantly employed in washing the
people's clothes. There was so much surf that the wood was obliged to be
rafted off in bundles to the boat. Mr. Nelson informed me that in his
walks today he saw a tree in a very healthy state which he measured and
found to be thirty-three feet and a half in girt; its height was
proportioned to its bulk.
Saturday 23.
The surf was rather greater than yesterday which very much interrupted
our wooding and watering. Nelson today picked up a male opossum that had
been recently killed, or had died, for we could not perceive any wound
unless it had received a blow on the back where there was a bare place
about the size of a shilling. It measured fourteen inches from the ears
to the beginning of the tail which was exactly the same length.
Most of the forest trees were at this time shedding their bark. There are
three kinds, which are distinguished from each other by their leaves,
though the wood appears to be the same. Many of them are full one hundred
and fifty feet high; but most of those that we cut down were decayed at
the heart. There are, besides the forest trees, several other kinds that
are firm good wood and may be cut for most purposes except masts; neither
are the forest trees good for masts, on account of their weight, and the
difficulty of finding them thoroughly sound. Mr. Nelson asserted that
they shed their bark every year, and that they increase more from the
seed than by suckers.
I found the tide made a difference of full two feet in the height of the
water in the lake at the back of the beach. At high water it was very
brackish, but at low tide it was perfectly fresh to the taste, and soap
showed no sign of its being the least impregnated. We had better success
in fishing on board the ship than by hauling the seine on shore; for with
hooks and lines a number of fine rock-cod were caught. I saw today
several eagles, some beautiful blue-plumaged herons, and a great variety
of parakeets. A few oyster-catchers and gulls were generally about the
beach, and in the lake a few wild ducks.
Monday 25.
Being in want of plank I directed a saw-pit to be dug and employed some
of the people to saw trees into plank. The greater part of this week the
winds were moderate with unsettled weather.
Friday 29.
On Friday it blew strong from the south-west with rain, thunder, and
lightning. We continued to catch fish in sufficient quantities for
everybody and had better success with the seine. We were fortunate also
in angling in the lake where we caught some very fine tench. Some of the
people felt a sickness from eating mussels that were gathered from the
rocks; but I believe it was occasioned by eating too many. We found some
spider-crabs, most of them not good, being the female sort and out of
season. The males were tolerably good and were known by the smallness of
their two fore-claws or feeders. We saw the trunk of a dead tree on which
had been cut A.D. 1773. The figures were very distinct; even the slips
made with the knife were discernible. This must have been done by some of
captain Furneaux's people in March 1773, fifteen years before. The marks
of the knife remaining so unaltered, I imagine the tree must have been
dead when it was cut; but it serves to show the durability of the wood
for it was perfectly sound at this time. I shot two gannets: these birds
were of the same size as those in England; their colour is a beautiful
white, with the wings and tail tipped with jet black and the top and back
of the head of a very fine yellow. Their feet were black with four claws,
on each of which was a yellow line the whole length of the foot. The bill
was four inches long, without nostrils, and very taper and sharp-pointed.
The east side of the bay being not so thick of wood as the other parts,
and the soil being good, I fixed on it, at Nelson's recommendation, as
the most proper situation for planting some of the fruit-trees which I
had brought from the Cape of Good Hope. A circumstance much against
anything succeeding here is that in the dry season the fires made by the
natives are apt to communicate to the dried grass and underwood, and to
spread in such a manner as to endanger everything that cannot bear a
severe scorching. We however chose what we thought the safest situations,
and planted three fine young apple-trees, nine vines, six plantain-trees,
a number of orange and lemon-seed, cherry-stones, plum, peach, and
apricot-stones, pumpkins, also two sorts of Indian corn, and apple and
pear kernels. The ground is well adapted for the trees, being of a rich
loamy nature. The spot where we made our plantation was clear of
underwood; and we marked the trees that stood nearest to the different
things which were planted. Nelson followed the circuit of the bay,
planting in such places as appeared most eligible. I have great hopes
that some of these articles will succeed. The particular situations I had
described in my survey of this place, but I was unfortunately prevented
from bringing it home. Near the watering place likewise we planted on a
flat, which appeared a favourable situation, some onions, cabbage-roots,
and potatoes.
For some days past a number of whales were seen in the bay. They were of
the same kind as those we had generally met with before, having two
blow-holes on the back of the head.
September. Monday 1.
On the night of the 1st of September we observed for the first time signs
of the natives being in the neighbourhood. Fires were seen on the low
land near Cape Frederick Henry, and at daylight we saw the natives with
our glasses. As I expected they would come round to us I remained all the
forenoon near the wooding and watering parties, making observations, the
morning being very favourable for that purpose. I was however
disappointed in my conjecture for the natives did not appear, and there
was too great a surf for a boat to land on the part where we had seen
them.
Tuesday 2.
The natives not coming near us, I determined to go after them, and we set
out in a boat towards Cape Frederick Henry, where we arrived about eleven
o'clock. I found landing impracticable and therefore came to a grapnel,
in hopes of their coming to us, for we had passed several fires. After
waiting near an hour I was surprised to see Nelson's assistant come out
of the wood: he had wandered thus far in search of plants and told me
that he had met with some of the natives. Soon after we heard their
voices like the cackling of geese, and twenty persons came out of the
wood, twelve of whom went round to some rocks where the boat could get
nearer to the shore than we then were. Those who remained behind were
women.
We approached within twenty yards of them, but there was no possibility
of landing and I could only throw to the shore, tied up in paper, the
presents which I intended for them. I showed the different articles as I
tied them up, but they would not untie the paper till I made an
appearance of leaving them. They then opened the parcels and, as they
took the articles out, placed them on their heads. On seeing this I
returned towards them when they instantly put everything out of their
hands and would not appear to take notice of anything that we had given
them. After throwing a few more beads and nails on shore I made signs for
them to go to the ship, and they likewise made signs for me to land, but
as this could not be effected I left them, in hopes of a nearer interview
at the watering-place.
When they first came in sight they made a prodigious clattering in their
speech and held their arms over their heads. They spoke so quick that I
could not catch one single word they uttered. We recollected one man whom
we had formerly seen among the party of the natives that came to us in
1777, and who is particularised in the account of Captain Cook's last
voyage for his humour and deformity. Some of them had a small stick, two
or three feet long, in their hands, but no other weapon.
Their colour, as Captain Cook remarks, is a dull black: their skin is
scarified about their shoulders and breast. They were of a middle
stature, or rather below it. One of them was distinguished by his body
being coloured with red ochre, but all the others were painted black with
a kind of soot which was laid on so thick over their faces and shoulders
that it is difficult to say what they were like.
They ran very nimbly over the rocks, had a very quick sight, and caught
the small beads and nails which I threw to them with great dexterity.
They talked to us sitting on their heels with their knees close into
their armpits and were perfectly naked.
In my return towards the ship I landed at the point of the harbour near
Penguin Island, and from the hills saw the water on the other side of the
low isthmus of Cape Frederick Henry, which forms the bay of that name. It
is very extensive and in, or near, the middle of the bay there is a low
island. From this spot it has the appearance of being a very good and
convenient harbour.
The account which I had from Brown, the botanist's assistant, was that in
his search for plants he had met an old man, a young woman, and two or
three children. The old man at first appeared alarmed, but became
familiar on being presented with a knife. He nevertheless sent away the
young woman who went very reluctantly. He saw some miserable wigwams, in
which were nothing but a few kangaroo skins spread on the ground, and a
basket made of rushes.
Among the wood that we cut here we found many scorpions and centipedes,
with numerous black ants that were an inch long. We saw no mosquitoes,
though in the summer months they are very troublesome.
What is called the New Zealand tea plant grew here in great abundance; so
that it was not only gathered and dried to use as tea but made excellent
brooms. It bears a small pointed leaf of a pleasant smell, and its seed
is contained in a berry, about the size of a pea, notched into five equal
parts on the top. The soil on the west and south sides of the bay is
black mould with a mixture of fine white sand and is very rich. The trees
are lofty and large, and the underwood grows so close together that in
many places it is impassable. The east side of the bay is a rich loamy
soil; but near the tops of the hills is very much encumbered with stones
and rocks: the underwood thinly placed and small. The trees on the south,
south-east, and south-west sides of the hills grow to a larger size than
those that are exposed to the opposite points; for the sides of the trees
open or exposed to the north winds are naked with few branches; while the
other sides are in a flourishing state. From this I do not infer that the
equatorial are more hurtful than the polar winds; but that the trees by
their situation were more sheltered from the one for from the other.
Wednesday 3.
A calm prevented our sailing today. The friendly interview which we had
had with the natives made me expect that they would have paid us a visit;
but we saw nothing more of them except fires in the night upon the low
land to the northward.
The result of the observations which I made here, reduced to Penguin
Island, place it in 43 degrees 21 minutes 11 seconds south latitude and
in longitude 147 degrees 33 minutes 29 seconds east, which scarcely
differs from the observations made in 1777. The variation of the compass
observed on shore was 8 degrees 38 minutes east; and on board the ship 8
degrees 29 minutes east. It was high-water at the change of the moon at
49 minutes past six in the morning. The rise was two feet eight inches.
Southerly winds, if of any continuance, make a considerable difference in
the height of the tides.
Thursday 4.
This forenoon, having a pleasant breeze at north-west, we weighed anchor
and sailed out of Adventure Bay. At noon the southernmost part of Maria's
Isles bore north 52 degrees east, about five leagues distant; Penguin
Island south 86 degrees west; and Cape Frederick Henry north 65 degrees
west. In this position we had soundings at 57 fathoms, a sandy bottom.
Latitude observed 43 degrees 22 minutes south.
The southern part of Maria's Islands lie in latitude 43 degrees 16
minutes south. The country is not in general woody, but in some of the
interior parts there appeared great abundance. Among these islands I have
no doubt of there being many convenient places for shipping. On the east
side in latitude 42 degrees 42 minutes south and longitude 148 degrees 24
minutes east in July, 1789, Captain Cox of the Mercury found a convenient
and secure harbour from all winds which he named Oyster Bay. Here he
found wood, water, and fish in great abundance. It has two outlets and
lies north, a little easterly, distant 34 miles from the
south-easternmost island, or point, seen from Adventure Bay.
Adventure Bay is a convenient and safe place for any number of ships to
take in wood and water during the summer months: but in the winter, when
the southerly winds are strong, the surf, on all parts of the shore,
makes the landing exceedingly troublesome. The bay of Frederick Henry may
perhaps be found preferable, as it appears to be equally easy of access.
The soundings in Adventure Bay are very regular: near the west shore are
some patches of weed but no shoal or danger, the depth on them being from
five to nine fathoms.
CHAPTER 5.
Rocky Islands discovered.
See the Island Maitea and arrive at Otaheite.
Ship crowded by the Natives.
1788. September.
Being clear of the land we steered towards the east-south-east, it being
my intention to pass to the southward of New Zealand, as I expected in
that route to meet with constant westerly winds; in which however I was
disappointed, for they proved variable and frequently from the eastward
blowing strong, with thick misty weather. The thermometer varied from 41
to 46 degrees.
Sunday 14.
On the 14th at noon we were in 49 degrees 24 minutes south latitude and
in 168 degrees 3 minutes east longitude, which is on the same meridian
with the south end of New Zealand. We altered our course, steering to the
northward of east, and frequently saw rock-weed which I supposed to have
drifted from New Zealand. The sea now became rougher from our being
exposed to a long swell which came from the north-east.
Friday 19.
On the 19th at daylight we discovered a cluster of small rocky islands
bearing east by north four leagues distant from us. We had seen no birds
or anything to indicate the nearness of land except patches of rock-weed,
for which the vicinity of New Zealand sufficiently accounted. The wind
being at north-east prevented our near approach to these isles; so that
we were not less than three leagues distant in passing to the southward
of them. The weather was too thick to see distinctly: their extent was
only 3 1/2 miles from east to west and about half a league from north to
south: their number including the smaller ones was thirteen. I could not
observe any verdure on any of them: there were white spots like patches
of snow but, as Captain Cook, in describing the land of New Zealand, near
Cape South, says, in many places there are patches like white marble, it
is probable that what we saw might be of the same kind as what he had
observed. The westernmost of these islands is the largest; they are of
sufficient height to be seen at the distance of seven leagues from a
ship's deck. When the easternmost bore north I tried for soundings, being
then 10 miles distant from the nearest of them, and found bottom at 75
fathoms, a fine white sand: and again at noon, having run six leagues
more to the east-south-east, we had soundings at 104 fathoms, a fine
brimstone-coloured sand. The latitude of these islands is 47 degrees 44
minutes south; their longitude 179 degrees 7 minutes east, which is about
145 leagues to the east of the Traps, near the south end of New Zealand.
Variation of the compass here 17 degrees east. While in sight of the
islands we saw some penguins, and a white kind of gull with a forked
tail. Captain Cook's track in 1773 was near this spot, but he did not see
the islands: he saw seals and penguins hereabouts, but considered New
Zealand to be the nearest land. I have named them after the ship the
Bounty Isles.
Sunday 21.
This day we saw a seal, some rock-weed, and a great many albatrosses. I
tried for soundings but found no bottom at 230 fathoms depth. Our
latitude 47 degrees 32 minutes south, longitude 182 degrees 36 minutes
east.
October. Thursday 2.
Were in 40 degrees 27 minutes south latitude and 214 degrees 4 minutes
east longitude. It being calm, and a number of small blubbers about the
ship, I took up some in a bucket, but I saw no difference between them
and the common blubbers in the West Indies. We frequently in the
night-time observed the sea to be covered with luminous spots caused by
prodigious quantities of small blubbers that, from the strings which
extend from them, emit a light like the blaze of a candle, while the body
continues perfectly dark.
Friday 3.
The 3rd in the morning we saw a seal. Captain Cook has remarked seeing
seaweed when nearly in the same place. Our latitude 40 degrees 21 minutes
south, longitude 215 degrees east. Variation of the compass 7 degrees 45
minutes east. Being now well to the eastward of the Society Islands I
steered more to the northward.
We continued to have the southern oceanic birds accompany us and a few
whales. The people caught albatrosses and fattened them in the same
manner which they had done when off Cape Horn. Some of these measured
near eight feet between the tips of the wings when spread.
Thursday 9.
On Thursday the 9th we had the misfortune to lose one of our seamen,
James Valentine, who died in the night of an asthmatic complaint. This
poor man had been one of the most robust people on board until our
arrival at Adventure Bay, where he first complained of some slight
indisposition for which he was bled, and got better. Some time afterwards
the arm in which he had been bled became painful and inflamed: the
inflammation increased, with a hollow cough, and extreme difficulty of
breathing, to his death.
Monday 13.
The 13th in the afternoon we saw two land birds like what are called
sand-larks. Our latitude at this time was 28 degrees 3 minutes south and
longitude 223 degrees 26 minutes east.
Tuesday 14.
The next morning we saw a tropic bird and some fish. The winds were light
and variable with calms from this time to the 19th, when a breeze sprang
up from the north-east, which gradually came round to the eastward and
proved to be the tradewind. Our latitude on the 19th at noon was 24
degrees 13 minutes south, longitude 222 degrees 17 minutes east.
Variation of the compass 5 degrees 19 minutes east.
Saturday 25.
On the 25th at half-past seven in the morning we saw the Island Maitea,
called Osnaburg by Captain Wallis, who first discovered it. At noon it
bore south-west by west one-quarter west, six miles distant. Our latitude
17 degrees 50 minutes south, longitude 212 degrees 24 minutes east.
Variation five degrees east. As Captain Wallis and Captain Cook had both
passed near the south side, I ran along the north side, which is
remarkably steep. The island is high and round and not more than three
miles in its greatest extent. The south side, where the declivity from
the hill is more gradual, is the chief place of residence of the natives;
but the north side, from the very summit down to the sea, is so steep
that it can afford no support to the inhabitants. We steered pretty close
in to the northward of the east end, where we saw but few habitations: a
very neat house on a small eminence, delightfully situated in a grove of
coconut-trees, particularly attracted our notice. About twenty of the
natives followed us along shore, waving and showing large pieces of
cloth; but the surf on the shore was too high to think of having any
communication with them. I observed a great number of coconut-trees but
did not see one plantain-tree. There were other trees but of what kind we
could not distinguish: near the east end are two remarkable rocks, and a
reef runs off to the eastward about half a league.
The latitude of Maitea is 17 degrees 53 minutes south; and by our
timekeeper its longitude is 1 degree 24 minutes east from Point Venus.
Variation of the compass 5 degrees 36 minutes east.
We continued our course to the westward, and at six in the evening saw
Otaheite bearing west three-quarters south; the island Maitea, then in
sight, bearing east half south, eight leagues distant. As there was great
probability that we should remain a considerable time at Otaheite, it
could not be expected that the intercourse of my people with the natives
should be of a very reserved nature: I therefore ordered that every
person should be examined by the surgeon, and had the satisfaction to
learn from his report that they were all perfectly free from any venereal
complaint.
Sunday 26.
On the 26th at four o'clock in the morning, having run twenty-five
leagues from Maitea, we brought to till daylight, when we saw Point Venus
bearing south-west by west, distant about four leagues. As we drew near a
great number of canoes came off to us. Their first enquiries were if we
were tyos, which signifies friends; and whether we came from Pretanie
(their pronunciation of Britain) or from Lima: they were no sooner
satisfied in this than they crowded on board in vast numbers,
notwithstanding our endeavours to prevent it, as we were working the ship
in; and in less than ten minutes the deck was so full that I could scarce
find my own people. At nine in the forenoon we were obliged to anchor in
the outer part of Matavai Bay, in thirteen fathoms, being prevented by
light variable winds from placing the ship in a proper berth. In this
station the west part of One-tree hill bore south by east half east one
mile distant.
This passage of fifty-two days from Van Diemen's Land may be rated as
moderate sailing. We passed New Zealand with the spring equinox and the
winds, though strong, were at no time violent. To the southward of 40
degrees 0 minutes south they were variable; between the latitudes of 40
and 33 degrees south the wind kept in the north-west quarter; afterwards
till we got into the trade the winds were variable, mostly from the
eastward, but light and inclinable to calms. The ship was 3 degrees 22
minutes in longitude to the eastward of the dead reckoning, which the
timekeeper almost invariably proved to be owing to a current giving us
more easting than the log. Our track was as distant from any course of
former ships as I could conveniently make it and, though we made no new
discoveries, except the small cluster of islands near New Zealand, yet in
other parts of the track, as has been noticed, we met with signs of being
in the neighbourhood of land.
It may not be unworthy of remark that the whole distance which the ship
had run by the log, in direct and contrary courses, from leaving England
to our anchoring at Otaheite, was twenty-seven thousand and eighty-six
miles which, on an average, is at the rate of a hundred and eight miles
each twenty-four hours.
CHAPTER 6.
Account of an English Ship lately sailed from Otaheite.
Death of Omai.
Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.
Otoo visits the Ship.
His Visit returned.
Natives well disposed towards us.
Account of the Cattle left by Captain Cook.
Breadfruit plants promised.
Visit to the Earee Rahie.
Presents made to the Arreoys.
1788. October. Sunday 26.
The ship being anchored, our number of visitors continued to increase;
but as yet we saw no person that we could recollect to have been of much
consequence. Some inferior chiefs made me presents of a few hogs and I
made them presents in return. We were supplied with coconuts in great
abundance but breadfruit was scarce.
Many enquiries were made after Captain Cook, Sir Joseph Banks, and many
of their former friends. They said a ship had been here from which they
had learnt that Captain Cook was dead; but the circumstances of his death
they did not appear to be acquainted with; and I had given particular
directions to my officers and ship's company that they should not be
mentioned. The ship spoken of, they informed me, stayed at Otaheite one
month and had been gone four months, by some of their accounts; according
to others only three months. The captain they called Tonah. I understood
likewise from them that Lieutenant Watts was in the ship who, having been
here in the Resolution with Captain Cook, was well known to them. One of
my first enquiries, as will naturally be imagined, was after our friend
Omai; and it was a sensible mortification and disappointment to me to
hear that not only Omai, but both the New Zealand boys who had been left
with him, were dead. Everyone agreed in their information that they died
a natural death. Otoo, who was the chief of Matavai when Captain Cook was
here the last time, was absent at another part of the island; they told
me messengers were sent to inform him of our arrival, and that he was
expected to return soon. There appeared among the natives in general
great goodwill towards us, and they seemed to be much rejoiced at our
arrival. This whole day we experienced no instance of dishonesty. We were
so much crowded that I could not undertake to remove to a more proper
station without danger of disobliging our visitors by desiring them to
leave the ship: this business was therefore deferred till the next
morning.
Monday 27.
Early in the morning, before the natives began to flock off to us, we
weighed anchor to work farther into the bay, and moored at about a
quarter of a mile distance from the shore; Point Venus bearing north 16
degrees east; the west part of One-tree hill south-west by south; and the
point of the reef north 37 degrees west; the ship lying in seven fathoms
water.
Several chiefs now came on board and expressed great pleasure at seeing
me. Among these were Otow, the father of Otoo, and Oreepyah, his brother;
also another chief of Matavai called Poeeno: and to these men I made
presents. Two messengers likewise arrived from Otoo to acquaint me of his
being on his way to the ship; each of whom brought me as a present from
Otoo a small pig and a young plantain-tree as a token of friendship. The
ship was now plentifully supplied with provisions; every person having as
much as he could consume.
As soon as the ship was secured I went on shore with the chief Poeeno,
and accompanied by a multitude of the natives. He conducted me to the
place where we had fixed our tents in 1777 and desired that I would now
appropriate the spot to the same use. We then went across the beach and
through a walk delightfully shaded with breadfruit trees to his own
house. Here we found two women at work staining a piece of cloth red.
These I found were his wife and her sister. They desired me to sit down
on a mat which was spread for the purpose, and with great kindness
offered me refreshments. I received the congratulations of several
strangers who came to us and behaved with great decorum and attention.
The people however thronged about the house in such numbers that I was
much incommoded by the heat, which being observed they immediately drew
back. Among the crowd I saw a man who had lost his arm just above the
elbow; the stump was well covered and the cure seemed as perfect as could
be expected from the greatest professional skill.
I made enquiries about the cattle that had been left here by Captain
Cook, but the accounts I received were very unfavourable and so various
that for the present I shall forebear speaking of them. After staying
about an hour I got up to take leave, when the women in a very obliging
manner came to me with a mat and a piece of their finest cloth, which
they put on me after the Otaheite fashion. When I was thus dressed they
each of them took one of my hands, and accompanied me to the waterside,
and at parting promised that they would soon return my visit.
In this walk I had the satisfaction to see that the island had received
some benefit from our former visits. Two shaddocks were brought to me, a
fruit which they had not, till we introduced it. And among the articles
which they brought off to the ship and offered for sale were capsicums,
pumpkins, and two young goats.
On my return to the ship I found that a small disturbance had been
occasioned by one of the natives making an attempt to steal a tin pot;
which, on being known to Oreepyah, he flew into a violent rage, and it
was with some difficulty that the thief escaped with his life. He drove
all his countrymen out of the ship; and when he saw me he desired if at
any time I found a thief that I would order him to be tied up and
punished with a severe flogging.
This forenoon a man came on board with Captain Cook's picture which had
been drawn by Mr. Webber in 1777 and left with Otoo. It was brought to me
to be repaired. The frame was broken but the picture no way damaged
except a little in the background. They called it Toote (which has always
been their manner of pronouncing Captain Cook's name) Earee no Otaheite,
chief of Otaheite. They said Toote had desired Otoo, whenever any English
ship came, to show the picture, and it would be acknowledged as a token
of friendship. The youngest brother of Otoo, named Whydooah, visited me
this afternoon: he appeared stupefied with drinking ava. At sunset all
our male visitors left the ship.
Tuesday 28.
The next morning early I received a message from Otoo to inform me of his
arrival and requesting that I would send a boat for him; which I
immediately did with an officer (Mr. Christian) to conduct him on board.
He came with numerous attendants and expressed much satisfaction at our
meeting. After introducing his wife to me we joined noses, the customary
manner of saluting, and to perpetuate our friendship he desired we should
exchange names. I was surprised to find that instead of Otoo, the name by
which he formerly went, he was now called Tinah. The name of Otoo, with
the title of Earee Rahie, I was informed had devolved to his eldest son
who was yet a minor, as is the custom of the country. The name of Tinah's
wife was Iddeah: with her was a woman dressed with a large quantity of
cloth in the form of a hoop, which was taken off and presented to me with
a large hog and some breadfruit. I then took my visitors into the cabin
and after a short time produced my presents in return. The present I made
to Tinah (by which name I shall hereafter call him) consisted of
hatchets, small adzes, files, gimblets, saws, looking-glasses, red
feathers, and two shirts. To Iddeah I gave earrings, necklaces, and
beads; but she expressed a desire also for iron, and therefore I made the
same assortment for her as I had for the husband. Much conversation took
place among them on the value of the different articles and they appeared
extremely satisfied, so that they determined to spend the day with me and
requested I would show them all over the ship, and particularly the cabin
where I slept. This though I was not fond of doing I indulged them in;
and the consequence was as I had apprehended that they took a fancy to so
many things that they got from me nearly as much more as I had before
given them. Afterwards Tinah desired me to fire some of the great guns:
this I likewise complied with and, as the shot fell into the sea at a
great distance, all the natives expressed their surprise by loud shouts
and acclamations.
I had a large company at dinner; for besides Tinah and his wife there was
Otow, the father of Tinah, Oreepyah, and Whydooah, two of his brothers,
Poeeno, and several other chiefs. Tinah is a very large man, much above
the common stature, being not less than six feet four inches in height
and proportionably stout: his age about thirty-five. His wife (Iddeah) I
judged to be about twenty-four years of age: she is likewise much above
the common size of the women at Otaheite and has a very animated and
intelligent countenance. Whydooah, the younger brother of Tinah, was
highly spoken of as a warrior but had the character of being the greatest
drunkard in the country; and indeed to judge from the withered appearance
of his skin he must have used the pernicious drink called ava to great
excess. Tinah was fed by one of his attendants who sat by him for that
purpose, this being a particular custom among some of the superior
chiefs; and I must do him the justice to say he kept his attendant
constantly employed: there was indeed little reason to complain of want
of appetite in any of my guests. As the women are not allowed to eat in
presence of the men Iddeah dined with some of her companions about an
hour afterwards in private, except that her husband Tinah favoured them
with his company and seemed to have entirely forgotten that he had
already dined.
Provisions were brought off to the ship in the greatest plenty and, to
prevent as much as possible anything which might occasion disputes, I
desired Mr. Peckover, the gunner, to undertake the management of our
traffic with the natives. Some of the hogs brought today weighed 200
pounds and we purchased several for salting. Goats were likewise brought
off for sale, and I bought a she-goat and kid for less than would have
purchased a small hog. Our friends here expressed much disappointment
that there was no portrait-painter on board; Tinah in particular, who
wished to have had pictures of his father and family.
An intimacy between the natives and our people was already so general
that there was scarce a man in the ship who had not his tyo or friend.
Tinah continued with me the whole afternoon, in the course of which he
ate four times of roast pork besides his dinner. When he left the ship he
requested I would keep for him all the presents I had given to him as he
had not at Matavai a place sufficiently safe to secure them from being
stolen; I therefore showed him a locker in my cabin for his use and gave
him a key to it. This is perhaps not so much a proof of his want of power
as of the estimation in which they hold European commodities and which
makes more than the common means of security requisite to prevent theft.
I had sent Nelson and his assistant to look for plants, and it was no
small pleasure to me to find by their report that according to
appearances the object of my mission would probably be accomplished with
ease. I had given directions to everyone on board not to make known to
the islanders the purpose of our coming lest it might enhance the value
of the breadfruit plants, or occasion other difficulties. Perhaps so much
caution was not necessary but at all events I wished to reserve to myself
the time and manner of communication. Nelson met with two fine
shaddock-trees which he had planted in 1777: they were full of fruit but
not ripe.
Wednesday 29.
In the morning I returned Tinah's visit for I found he expected it. He
was in a small shed about a quarter of a mile to the eastward of Matavai
point with his wife and three children, not their own but who they said
were relations. In my walk I had picked up a numerous attendance for
everyone I met followed me; so that I had collected such a crowd that the
heat was scarce bearable, everyone endeavouring to get a look to satisfy
their curiosity: they however carefully avoided pressing against me, and
welcomed me with cheerful countenances and great good nature.
I made Tinah understand that my visit was particularly to him, and gave
him a second present, equal to the first, which he received with great
pleasure; and to the people of consequence that were about him I also
presented some article or other. There were great numbers of children
and, as I took notice of the little ones that were in arms and gave them
beads, both small and great, but with much drollery and good humour,
endeavoured to benefit by the occasion. Boys of ten and twelve years old
were caught up in arms and brought to me, which created much laughter; so
that in a short time I got rid of all I had brought on shore.
In my return I called on Poeeno, and an elderly chief, a relation of his,
called Moannah, the principal men of this district and with whom I judged
it my interest to be on good terms. I gave them several valuable articles
and, as the situation here was eligible for a garden, I planted melon,
cucumber, and salad-seeds. I told them many other things should be sown
for their use; and they appeared much pleased when they understood I
intended to plant such things as would grow to be trees and produce
fruit. I saw large patches of tobacco growing without culture and many
pumpkin vines. The breadfruit trees and coconut trees at this time were
full of fruit.
I went on board to dinner and Moannah accompanied me. In the afternoon I
returned to Poeeno's with some additional seeds to improve the little
garden I had begun to make in the forenoon. While I was giving directions
I received a message from Tinah inviting me to come to him at his brother
Oreepyah's house, which was near the beach. At this place I found a great
number of people collected who, on my appearance, immediately made way
for me to sit down by Tinah. The crowd being ordered to draw back, a
piece of cloth about two yards wide and forty-one yards in length was
spread on the ground; and another piece of cloth was brought by Oreepyah,
which he put over my shoulders and round my waist in the manner the
chiefs are clothed. Two large hogs, weighing each above two hundred
pounds, and a quantity of baked breadfruit and coconuts were then laid
before me as a present, and I was desired to walk from one end of the
cloth spread on the ground to the other, in the course of which Tyo and
Ehoah* were repeated with loud acclamations. This ceremony being ended
Tinah desired I would send the things on board, which completely loaded
the boat; we therefore waited till she came back and then I took them on
board with me; for I knew they expected some return. The present which I
made on this occasion was equal to any that I had made before; but I
discovered that Tinah was not the sole proprietor of what he had given to
me for the present I gave was divided among those who, I guessed, had
contributed to support his dignity; among whom were Moannah, Poeenah, and
Oreepyah; Tinah however kept the greatest part of what I had given and
everyone seemed satisfied with the proportion he allotted them.
(*Footnote. Tyo and Ehoah are words of the same signification, i.e.
friend.)
The Otaheite breed of hogs seems to be supplanted by the European.
Originally they were of the China sort, short and very thick-necked; but
the superior size of the European have made them encourage our breed.
Thursday 30.
At break of day Tinah and his wife came again to the ship and, as their
attendants were numerous, I provided a breakfast for them of broiled and
roasted pork, which they preferred to tea. Our arrival being known all
over the island, we had this day a great number of strangers on board who
came from the most remote parts, and in the forenoon some hooks and
thimbles were cut out from the blocks. This induced me to order all the
natives out of the ship except the chiefs and their attendants. In
executing these orders a daring fellow attacked the sentinel but escaped
among the crowd. Everyone knew the consequence of offending the sentinel
and were exceedingly alarmed at the appearance of anger I thought
necessary to assume.
Among those who visited us today were two chiefs of great consequence,
Marremarre and his son Poohaitaiah Otee, Earees of the districts of
Itteeah and Attahooroo. Otee was fed at dinner in the same manner as
Tinah. It was evident that the attention which I showed to these chiefs
seemed to give uneasiness to Tinah. At sunset my visitors took leave and
were carried on shore by one of the ship's boats, which has always been
regarded as a mark of distinction, and on that account preferred by them
to going in their own canoes. At their request a race was rowed between
our five-oared cutter and one of their double canoes with four paddles.
Great exertions were used on both sides but the cutter first reached the
shore. In their return to the ship Oreepyah stopped them till a large
piece of cloth that he had sent for was brought; which he tied to the
boat-hook and desired should be carried off as a trophy of their victory.
Friday 31.
The next morning at sunrise Moannah came on board with a message from
Tinah to acquaint me that he was mattow (afraid to see me) till he had
recovered some things that had been stolen from the ship and which he had
sent after. I knew there was something wrong, as no canoes came off to us
and, on looking about, we found the buoy of the best bower anchor had
been taken away, I imagine for the sake of some iron hoops that were on
it. That this might not create any coolness I sent a boat to Tinah to
invite him and his friends to come on board; which they immediately did
and were no longer under any apprehensions. I had made an appointment
with Oreepyah for him to go with me to Oparre this morning; but the
accident just mentioned caused him to break his engagement, he having
gone, I was informed, in search of what had been stolen.
Oparre is the district next to the westward of Matavai. One of my reasons
for going to Oparre was to see if Nelson would be able to procure plants
there; but I gave the credit of my visit to young Otoo, the son of Tinah,
who was the Earee Rahie, and lived with the rest of Tinah's children at
Oparre. I prepared a magnificent present for this youth, who was
represented to me as the person of the greatest consequence, or rather of
the highest rank, in the island. At noon I left the ship, accompanied by
Tinah, his wife Iddeah, and Poeeno. Moannah was to have been of the party
but he insisted on remaining in the ship to prevent his countrymen from
attempting to steal anything.
After half an hour's sailing we arrived at Oparre. During this time Tinah
gave me a more circumstantial account of the cattle and sheep that had
been left with him: he related that, after five years from the time of
Captain Cook's departure (counting 63 moons) the people of the Island
Eimeo joined with those of Attahooroo, a district of Otaheite, and made a
descent on Oparre: that after some resistance by which many men were
killed Tinah and his people fled to the mountains, leaving all their
property to the mercy of the victorious party who destroyed almost
everything which they found not convenient to take away with them. Some
of the cattle were killed and eaten but the greater part were taken to
Eimeo. The cows he said had produced eight calves and the ewes ten young
ones. The ducks, among which they classed the geese, had greatly
increased; but the turkeys and peacocks, whatever was the cause, had not
bred. It seemed to give Tinah great pleasure to observe how much I was
concerned for the destruction of so many useful animals; but the cause of
his satisfaction, I found, did not proceed from any expectation that I
should replace them, but from the belief that I would take vengeance on
the people who had deprived him of them; for with respect to the loss of
the cattle he appeared so unconcerned and indifferent that I was very
angry with him. There is however sufficient excuse for his resentment
against the people of Eimeo; for the large extensive houses which we had
seen in this part of Otaheite in the year 1777 were all destroyed, and at
present they had no other habitations than light sheds which might be
taken by the four corners and removed by four men: and of the many large
canoes which they then had not more than three remained. Tinah,
understanding from my conversation that I intended visiting some of the
other islands in this neighbourhood, very earnestly desired I would not
think of leaving Matavai. "Here," said he, "you shall be supplied
plentifully with everything you want. All here are your friends and
friends of King George: if you go to the other islands you will have
everything stolen from you." I replied that, on account of their goodwill
and from a desire to serve him and his country, King George had sent out
those valuable presents to him; "and will not you, Tinah, send something
to King George in return?" "Yes," he said, "I will send him anything I
have;" and then began to enumerate the different articles in his power,
among which he mentioned the breadfruit. This was the exact point to
which I wished to bring the conversation and, seizing an opportunity
which had every appearance of being undesigned and accidental, I told him
the breadfruit trees were what King George would like; upon which he
promised me a great many should be put on board, and seemed much
delighted to find it so easily in his power to send anything that would
be well received by King George.
On landing at Oparre an immense crowd of natives as usual immediately
thronged about us. I enquired for Oreepyah, whom I expected to have met
me here, but he was not yet returned from his search after the thieves;
we therefore went under a shed of his to wait for him, and in about a
quarter of an hour he joined us, bringing with him an iron scraper and
one of the hoops of the buoy. I thanked him for the trouble which he had
taken, and assured him that I was perfectly satisfied, for he still
seemed apprehensive of my displeasure.
We took leave for a short time of Oreepyah and I proceeded with Tinah to
make my visit to the young Otoo, the Earee Rahie. When we had walked
about five minutes Tinah stopped and informed me that no person could be
permitted to see his son, who was covered above the shoulders. He then
took off his upper garments and requested I would do the same. I replied
that I had no objection to go as I would to my own king, who was the
greatest in all the world and, pulling off my hat, he threw a piece of
cloth round my shoulders and we went on. About a quarter of a mile
farther towards the hills, through a delightful shade of breadfruit
trees, we stopped at the side of a small serpentine river: here I was in
view of a house on the other side at about fifty yards distance. From
this house the young king was brought out on a man's shoulders, clothed
in a piece of fine white cloth, and I was desired by Tinah to salute him
by the name of Too Earee Rahie. The present which I had prepared was
divided into three parts, and two other children made their appearance in
the same manner. The first present I gave to a messenger who attended for
that purpose; and I was instructed by Tinah to say that it was for the
Earee Rahie; that I was his friend; that I hated thieves; and that I came
from Britannia. The second present was sent in the same manner, with a
similar message, to one of the other children and likewise the third.
As I could not see the Earee Rahie distinctly I desired to be permitted
to go over the river to him; but this, it seems, could not be complied
with: therefore after seeing the presents delivered I returned with Tinah
towards Oreepyah's house. I was informed that Tinah had four children by
his wife Iddeah. Otoo, or Too, the Earee Rahie, appeared to be about six
years old: the second is a girl named Terrenah Oroah: the third a boy,
Terreetappanooai; and a fourth, an infant girl, whom I did not see, named
Tahamydooah.
When we came to the place where we had first stopped Tinah took the cloth
from my shoulders and desired me to put my hat on; I expressed a desire
to see more of the place and he took me back by a different way. On
passing a trunk of a tree, rudely carved, I was desired again to pull my
hat off, and all uncovered their shoulders. This I discovered to be
nothing more than the boundary of the king's land; on which whoever set
their feet uncovered themselves out of respect.
We stopped at a house belonging to Tinah where I was treated with a
concert of one drum and three flutes with singing by four men. I made
some presents to the performers and we removed to Oreepyah's house where,
after paying my compliments to him, which I found was expected, Tinah
made me a present of a large hog and some coconuts. He then introduced an
uncle of his called Mowworoah, a very old man much tattooed and almost
blind. To this chief I made a present and soon after I embarked with
Tinah, Oreepyah, their wives, and Poeeno. A vast number of people were
collected on the beach to see us depart and as soon as the boat had put
off Tinah desired me to fire my pocket pistol, the poopooe ete ete, as he
called it: the report seemed to electrify the whole crowd but, finding no
harm done, they gave great shouts of approbation.
Nelson, who accompanied me in this expedition, had but little opportunity
to search after plants, the natives having crowded so much about him: he
saw enough however to assure him that they were to be procured here as
plentifully as at Matavai.
In our passage to the ship, which we rowed in one hour, nothing but
Britannie was enquired after and of the number of ships and guns. When I
told them we had ships of 100 guns they could not believe it till I drew
one on paper: they then asked me if it was not as big as Tarrah, which is
a high projecting headland halfway between Matavai and Oparre, called by
us One-tree Hill. Tinah much wished that one of these large ships should
be sent to Otaheite and that myself should come in her, and bring him a
number of things that he wanted; among which he particularly desired beds
and high-backed elbow chairs might not be forgotten: a request perfectly
according with the indolent character of Tinah.
November. Saturday 1.
As we had occasion to fix a tent on Point Venus this morning we moved the
ship nearer to it and moored again in six fathoms, the point bearing
north-north-east.
Tinah and several other chiefs dined on board with me. After dinner I
went on shore with Tinah and made a visit to his father Otow. I likewise
went to the garden which I had made near Poeeno's house and found
everything had been taken care of. After this I was invited to an
entertainment called Heiva, which Tinah had ordered and which consisted
of singing and dancing by three men and a young girl. When this
performance was finished I returned to the ship.
Sunday 2.
At daylight I sent Mr. Christian with a party to erect our tent and soon
after followed myself with Tinah, Moannah, and Poeeno. With their consent
I fixed a boundary, within which the natives were not to enter without
leave and the chiefs cautioned them against it.
The principal use of the tents on shore was for a lodgment for the
plants; and I had now, instead of appearing to receive a favour, brought
the chiefs to believe that I was doing them a kindness in carrying the
plants as a present from them to the Earee Rahie no Britanee. The party
at the tent consisted of nine persons, including Nelson and his
assistant.
Tinah dined with me on board and was today my only visitor: nevertheless
the ceremony of being fed he so scrupulously observed that, even after
all the attendants were sent away and we were left by ourselves, I was
obliged to lift the wine to his mouth. The wives of the Earees are
sometimes subject to this restriction after the birth of a child but are
released after a certain time on performing a ceremony called Oammo.
After dinner Tinah invited me to accompany him with a present of
provisions to a party of the Arreoys, a society described in the accounts
of the former voyages: in this ceremony he made me the principal person.
Our way to the place where the offering was to be made was by the side of
a river along the banks of which I had always walked before this time;
but on the present occasion a canoe was provided for me and dragged by
eight men. On arriving at the landing-place I saw a large quantity of
breadfruit with some hogs ready dressed and a quantity of cloth. At about
forty yards distant sat a man who, I was informed, was a principal
Arreoy. A lane being made by the crowd he was addressed by one of Tinah's
people, standing on the canoe, in a speech composed of short sentences
which lasted about a quarter of an hour. During this a piece of cloth was
produced, one end of which I was desired to hold, and five men, one with
a sucking pig and the others having each a basket of breadfruit, prepared
to follow me. In this order we advanced to the Arreoy and laid the whole
down before him. I then spoke several sentences dictated to me by Tinah,
the meaning of which I did not understand and, my pronunciation not being
very exact, caused a great deal of mirth. This speech being finished I
was shown another Arreoy, who had come from Ulietea, and to him likewise
I was required to deliver an oration. Tinah understanding from me that I
had children in my own country he desired me to make one more offering on
their account. There still remained three baskets of breadfruit, a small
pig, and another piece of cloth: with these, assisted as before, I made
the offering in favour of my children to the man whom I had first
addressed. He made no reply to all my fine speeches but sat with great
gravity and received everything as a matter of right and not of courtesy.
All that I could make out of this strange ceremony was that the Arreoys
are highly respected and that the society is chiefly composed of men
distinguished by their valour or some other merit, and that great trust
and confidence is reposed in them; but I could not comprehend what this
had to do with my children or why it should be imagined that an offering
made on their account to a society of men who destroy all their children
should be propitious. I learnt from Tinah, in talking about his children,
that his first-born child was killed as soon as it came into the world,
he being then an Arreoy; but before his second child was born he quitted
the society. The Arreoys are allowed great latitude in their amours
except in times of danger. Then as they are almost all fighting men (tata
toa) they are restricted that they may not weaken or enervate themselves.
These ceremonies being ended I returned to the ship.
Such of the natives as I conversed with about the institution of so
extraordinary a society as the Arreoy asserted that it was necessary to
prevent an overpopulation. Worrow worrow no te mydidde, worrow worrow te
tata. We have too many children and too many men was their constant
excuse. Yet it does not appear that they are apprehensive of too great an
increase of the lower class of people, none of them being ever admitted
into the Arreoy society. The most remarkable instance related to me of
the barbarity of this institution was of Teppahoo, the Earee of the
district of Tettaha, and his wife, Tetteehowdeeah, who is sister to Otow
and considered as a person of the first consequence. I was told that they
have had eight children, every one of which was destroyed as soon as
born. That any human beings were ever so devoid of natural affection as
not to wish to preserve alive one of so many children is not credible. It
is more reasonable to conclude that the death of these infants was not an
act of choice in the parents; but that they were sacrificed in compliance
with some barbarous superstition with which we are unacquainted. What
strengthens this conjecture is that they have adopted a nephew as their
heir, of whom they are excessively fond.
In countries so limited as the islands in the South Seas, the natives of
which, before they were discovered by European navigators, probably had
not an idea of the existence of other lands, it is not unnatural that an
increasing population should occasion apprehensions of universal
distress. Orders of celibacy which have proved so prejudicial in other
countries might perhaps in this have been beneficial; so far at least as
to have answered their purpose by means not criminal. The number of
inhabitants at Otaheite have been estimated at above one hundred
thousand. The island however is not cultivated to the greatest advantage:
yet were they continually to improve in husbandry their improvement could
not for a length of time keep pace with an unlimited population.
An idea here presents itself which, however fanciful it may appear at
first sight, seems to merit some attention: While we see among these
islands so great a waste of the human species that numbers are born only
to die, and at the same time a large continent so near to them as New
Holland, in which there is so great a waste of land uncultivated and
almost destitute of inhabitants, it naturally occurs how greatly the two
countries might be made to benefit each other, and gives occasion to
regret that the islanders are not instructed in the means of emigrating
to New Holland, which seems as if designed by nature to serve as an
asylum for the superflux of inhabitants in the islands. Such a plan of
emigration, if rendered practicable to them, might not only be the means
of abolishing the horrid custom of destroying children as it would remove
the plea of necessity but might lead to other important purposes. A great
continent would be converted from a desert to a populous country; a
number of our fellow-creatures would be saved; the inhabitants of the
islands would become more civilised; and it is not improbable but that
our colonies in New Holland would derive so much benefit as to more than
repay any trouble of expense that might be incurred in endeavouring to
promote so humane a plan.
The latter however is a remote consideration for the intertropical parts
of New Holland are those most suited to the habits and manner of living
of the islanders; and likewise the soil and climate are the best adapted
to their modes of agriculture. Man placed by his Creator in the warm
climates perhaps would never emigrate into the colder unless under the
tyrannous influence of necessity; and ages might elapse before the new
inhabitants would spread to our settlers though they are but barely
within the limits of frost, that great cause of nine-tenths of the
necessities of Europeans. Nevertheless besides forwarding the purposes of
humanity and general convenience in bringing a people without land to a
land without people the benefit of a mutual intercourse with a
neighbouring and friendly colony would in itself be no inconsiderable
advantage.
Among people so free from ostentation as the Otaheiteans, and whose
manners are so simple and natural, the strictness with which the
punctilios of rank are observed is surprising. I know not if any action,
however meritorious, can elevate a man above the class in which he was
born unless he were to acquire sufficient power to confer dignity on
himself. If any woman of the inferior classes has a child by an Earee it
is not suffered to live. Perhaps the offspring of Teppahoo and
Tetteehowdeeah were destined to satisfy some cruel adjustment of rank and
precedency.
CHAPTER 7.
A theft committed.
Deception of the painted Head.
Conversation with a Priest.
A Wrestling Match.
Reports of the Natives concerning other Islands.
Some Account of Omai.
1788. November. Monday 3.
The trade for provisions I directed to be carried on at the tent by Mr.
Peckover the gunner. Moannah likewise resided there as a guard over his
countrymen; but though it appeared to be the wish of all the chiefs that
we should remain unmolested it was not possible entirely to prevent them
from pilfering.
My table at dinner was generally crowded. Tinah, Oreepyah, Poeeno, and
Moannah, were my regular guests and I was seldom without some chiefs from
other districts. Almost every individual of any consequence has several
names which makes it frequently perplexing when the same person is spoken
of to know who is meant. Every chief has perhaps a dozen or more names in
the course of thirty years; so that the person who has been spoken of by
one visitor will not perhaps be known to another unless other
circumstances lead to a discovery. The father of Tinah, at this time
called Otow, was known in 1769 by the name of Whappai.
I showed Tinah the preparations I was making to take on board the
breadfruit plants which pleased him exceedingly, but he did not forget to
remind me that when the next ship came out he hoped King George would
send him large axes, files, saws, cloth of all kinds, hats, chairs, and
bedsteads, with arms, ammunition, and in short everything he could think
of mentioning.
This afternoon the gudgeon of the rudder belonging to the large cutter
was drawn out and stolen without being perceived by the man that was
stationed to take care of her. Several petty thefts having been committed
by the natives, mostly owing to the negligence of our own people and, as
these kind of accidents generally created alarm and had a tendency to
interrupt the good terms on which we were with the chiefs, I thought it
would have a good effect to punish the boat-keeper in their presence,
many of them happening to be then on board; and accordingly I ordered him
a dozen lashes. Tinah with several of the chiefs attended the punishment
and interceded very earnestly to get it mitigated: the women showed great
sympathy and that degree of feeling which characterises the amiable part
of their sex.
The natives brought off today two different kinds of roots that grow like
yams: one they call Ettee, which is a sweet root, common also to the
Friendly Islands, and may be eaten as a sweetmeat: the other they call
Appay, a root like the Tyah or Eddie in the West Indies. A fruit called
Ayyah, which is the jambo of Batavia, was likewise brought off to us:
they are as large as middle-sized apples, very juicy and refreshing, and
may be eaten in large quantities. Also some Avees, which are the real
Otaheite apple; but they were not yet in season. These are a delicious
high-flavoured fruit and before they are ripe answer the culinary
purposes of our apples.
Tuesday 4.
A chief called Tootaha, who came from the island Ulietea, was introduced
to me today by Tinah as one of his particular friends. I was told that he
was a priest and a person of great knowledge. I desired Tinah to take
what he thought proper as a present for him; and I must do Tinah the
justice to say he was more sparing than I should have been. I likewise
received a visit today from Oedidee, the man who had been at sea with
Captain Cook in 1773 and 1774, as related in the account of that voyage.
He still retained some of the English words which he had learnt in that
expedition.
Wednesday 5.
The weather variable with lightning and frequent showers of rain. Wind
east-north-east.
This was the first day of our beginning to take up plants: we had much
pleasure in collecting them for the natives offered their assistance and
perfectly understood the method of taking them up and pruning them.
The crowd of natives was not so great as hitherto it had been: the
curiosity of strangers was satisfied and, as the weather began to be
unsettled and rainy, they had almost all returned to their homes so that
only the people of Matavai and Oparre remained with us, except a few
chiefs from other islands: our supplies however were abundant and what I
considered as no small addition to our comforts, we ceased to be
incommoded when on shore by the natives following us, and could take our
walks almost unnoticed. In any house that we wished to enter we always
experienced a kind reception and without officiousness. The Otaheiteans
have the most perfect easiness of manners, equally free from forwardness
and formality. When they offer refreshments if they are not accepted they
do not think of offering them the second time; for they have not the
least idea of that ceremonious kind of refusal which expects a second
invitation. In like manner at taking leave we were never troubled with
solicitations to prolong our visit, but went without ceremony except
making use of a farewell expression at parting. Another advantage, seldom
found in warm countries, was, in this part of Otaheite being free from
mosquitoes, though at particular times of the year the inhabitants are
pestered with great numbers of flies.
Moannah continued our constant friend at the tent and with Tinah and all
his friends dined with me every day.
The ship's barber had brought with him from London a painted head such as
the hair-dressers have in their shops to show the different fashions of
dressing hair; and it being made with regular features and well-coloured,
I desired him to dress it, which he did with much neatness, and with a
stick and a quantity of cloth he formed a body. It was then reported to
the natives that we had an Englishwoman on board and the quarter-deck was
cleared of the crowd that she might make her appearance. Being handed up
the ladder and carried to the after-part of the deck there was a general
shout of "Huaheine no Brittane myty." Huaheine signifies woman and myty
good. Many of them thought it was living and asked if it was my wife. One
old woman ran with presents of cloth and breadfruit and laid them at her
feet; at last they found out the cheat; but continued all delighted with
it, except the old lady who felt herself mortified and took back her
presents for which she was laughed at exceedingly. Tinah and all the
chiefs enjoyed the joke and, after making many enquiries about the
British women, they strictly enjoined me when I came again to bring a
ship full of them.
Some very fine sugarcane was brought to me; each of the pieces was six
inches round. I had before told Tinah that our sugar was made of it and
he was very desirous to discover the means; for they were so fond of our
loaf sugar that a present to any chief would have been incomplete without
a piece of it. Another article in great estimation and likewise expected
to make part of a present was scissors, which they made use of to keep
their beards in order.
By this time Nelson had, with assistance from the ship, completed a large
garden near the tents in which were sown seeds of different kinds that we
had collected at the Cape of Good Hope. I likewise distributed
fruit-stones and almonds for planting among the chiefs, who I hope will
endeavour to make them succeed and, as they are very fond of
sweet-smelling flowers with which the women delight to ornament
themselves, I gave them some rose-seed.
Thursday 6.
We had very variable weather, much rain, and some westerly winds; so that
a considerable swell ran into the bay and a number of spotted white and
black porpoises made their appearance.
I had the mortification to see that our garden-ground had been much trod
over; and what was worse the chiefs appeared but little concerned at it.
To this kind of carelessness and indifference I attribute the miscarriage
of many of the plants left here by Captain Cook. I had now in a
flourishing state two orange plants, some vines, a fig-tree, and two
pineapple plants, which I gave to Poeeno whose residence is a place
favourable for their growth.
We got on successfully with our plants, having a hundred potted at the
tent and in a fair way of doing well. The cabin also was completed and
ready to receive them on board.
I have before remarked that my friend Tinah was rather of a selfish
disposition and this afternoon he showed a stronger instance of it than I
was witness to at any time before or after. His brother Oreepyah sent on
board to me a present of a large hog and a quantity of breadfruit: but
these kind of presents are much more expensive than purchasing at the
market. Soon after Oreepyah himself came on board. Tinah was with me at
the time and whispered me to tell Oreepyah not to bring any more hogs or
fruit and to take those back which he had sent. This advice as may be
supposed did not produce the effect intended. Oreepyah appears to be a
man of great spirit, and is highly respected by his countrymen. Among
other visitors today was one of the men who had been to Lima in 1776.
Saturday 8.
Our plants had now increased to 252: as they were all kept on shore at
the tent I augmented the guard there, though from the general conduct of
the natives there did not appear the least occasion for so much caution.
While I was at dinner Tinah desired I would permit a man to come down
into the cabin whom he called his Taowah or priest; for I was obliged to
keep a sentinel at the hatchway to prevent being incommoded at my meals
with too much company; a restriction which pleased the chiefs who always
asked leave for any particular person to be admitted of whom they wished
me to take notice. The company of the priest brought on a religious
conversation. He said their great God was called Oro; and that they had
many others of less consequence. He asked me if I had a God? if he had a
son? and who was his wife? I told them he had a son but no wife. Who was
his father and mother? was the next question. I said he never had father
or mother; at this they laughed exceedingly. You have a God then who
never had a father or mother and has a child without a wife! Many other
questions were asked which my little knowledge of the language did not
enable me to answer.
The weather was now fine again and a great number of people were come
from other parts of the island. Tinah informed me that there was to be a
heiva and a wrestling-match on shore, and that the performers waited for
our attendance; we therefore set off with several of our friends and,
about a quarter of a mile from the tents, we found a great concourse of
people formed into a ring. As soon as we were seated a dancing heiva
began, which was performed by two girls and four men: this lasted half an
hour and consisted of wanton gestures and motions such as have been
described in the account of former voyages. When the dance ended Tinah
ordered a long piece of cloth to be brought; his wife Iddeah and myself
were desired to hold the two first corners and, the remaining part being
supported by many others, we carried it to the performers and gave it
them. Several other chiefs made a like present or payment. The performers
were strollers that travelled about the country as in Europe.
After this the wrestling began and the place soon became a scene of riot
and confusion. A party of the Arreoys also began to exercise a privilege,
which it seems they are allowed, of taking from the women such of their
clothes as they thought worth it; so that some of them were left little
better than naked. One young woman who was attacked opposed them with all
her strength and held fast her cloth, though they almost dragged her
along the ground. Observing that I took notice of her she held out her
hand and begged my assistance; and at my request she escaped being
pillaged.
Soon after a ring was again made but the wrestlers were so numerous
within it that it was impossible to restore order. In the challenges they
lay one hand upon their breast and, on the bending of the arm at the
elbow, with the other hand they strike a very smart blow which, as the
hand is kept hollow, creates a sound that may be heard at a considerable
distance; and this they do so frequently and with such force that the
flesh becomes exceedingly bruised and, the skin breaking, bleeds
considerably. At this time the sound from so many resembled that of a
number of people in a wood felling trees. This is the general challenge;
but when any two combatants agree to a trial they present their hands
forward, joining them only by the extremities of the fingers. They begin
by watching to take an advantage; at length they close, seize each other
by the hair and are most commonly parted before either receives a fall.
Only one couple performed anything like the part of good wrestlers; and
as they were an equal match this conflict lasted longer than any of the
others; but they also were parted.
Iddeah was the general umpire and she managed with so much address as to
prevent any quarrelling, and there was no murmuring at her decisions. As
her person was large she was very conspicuous in the circle. Tinah took
no part in the management. Upon the whole this performance gave me a
better opinion of their strength than of their skill or dexterity.
Tuesday 11.
For some time past Tinah had talked of going to the island of Tethuroa
which lies eight or ten leagues north from Otaheite to fetch his mother;
but I found I had only half understood him; for this morning he enquired
when we were to sail there in the ship: however he seemed to feel no
great disappointment at my not complying with his wish. Tethuroa he
informed me is the property of his family. He likewise spoke to me about
an island called Rooopow, the situation of which he described to be to
the eastward of Otaheite four or five days sail, and that there were
large animals upon it with eight legs. The truth of this account he very
strenuously insisted upon and wished me to go thither with him. I was at
a loss to know whether or not Tinah himself gave credit to this whimsical
and fabulous account; for though they have credulity sufficient to
believe anything, however improbable, they are at the same time so much
addicted to that species of wit which we call humbug that it is
frequently difficult to discover whether they are in jest or earnest.
Their ideas of geography are very simple: they believe the world to be a
fixed plane of great extent; and that the sun, moon, and stars are all in
motion round it. I have been frequently asked by them if I have not been
as far as the sun and moon; for they think we are such great travellers
that scarce any undertaking is beyond our ability.
Another island called Tappuhoi, situated likewise to the eastward, was
described to me by Tinah, the inhabitants of which were said to be all
warriors, and that the people of Otaheite did not dare to go there. He
told me that very lately a canoe from Tappuhoi was at the island Maitea;
that as soon as they landed they began to fight with the people of Maitea
who killed them all except a young lad and a woman who have since been at
Otaheite. I saw the boy but could get no information from him. It is most
probable that this unfortunate visit of the canoe from Tappuhoi was not
designed but occasioned by adverse winds which forced them so far from
their own island, and that the people of Maitea began the attack, taking
advantage of their superior numbers, on account of some former quarrel.
Thursday 13.
I had a large company to dine with me today. Some of my constant visitors
had observed that we always drank His Majesty's health as soon as the
cloth was removed; but they were by this time become so fond of wine that
they would frequently remind me of the health in the middle of dinner by
calling out King George Earee no Brittannee; and would banter me if the
glass was not filled to the brim. Nothing could exceed the mirth and
jollity of these people when they met on board.
I was assured by Oediddee and several others that the vines planted at
the island Huaheine by Captain Cook had succeeded and bore fruit; and
that some of the other plants, both at Huaheine and at Oaitepeha, a
district on the south-east part of Otaheite, had been preserved and were
in a thriving state. I was likewise informed that there was a bull and a
cow alive at Otaheite but on different parts of the island, the former at
a place called Itteah, the latter at the district of Tettaha. All the
rest were taken away or destroyed by the people of Eimeo. As Tettaha was
at no great distance I determined to go thither myself the first
opportunity, and make enquiries in hopes that the breed might still be
preserved.
I had much discourse with my guests about Omai: they confirmed to me that
he died about thirty months after Captain Cook left the islands. Soon
after Captain Cook's departure from Huaheine there were some disputes
between the people of that island and those of Ulietea in which also the
natives of Bolabola took a part. Omai, who was become of consequence from
the possessing three or four muskets and some ammunition, was consulted
on the occasion. Such was his opinion and assurances of success that a
war was determined on and took place immediately. Victory soon followed
through the means of those few arms and many of the Ulietea and Bolabola
men were killed. In this contest their flints proved bad, or probably the
locks of the muskets had got out of order: this they remedied by a
lighted stick, one man presenting the musket and another with the burnt
stick setting fire to the priming; without which contrivance their arms
would have proved useless. This expedition it seems consumed all their
ammunition. Peace was soon after established, but I did not understand
that Omai had increased his possessions or his rank. Nevertheless I have
reason to conclude that he was in some degree of favour with his
countrymen from the general good character which they give of him. It
appears that he always remembered England with kindness; for his accounts
to his countrymen have been such as to give them not only a great idea of
our power and consequence but of our friendship and goodwill towards him.
Tyvarooah, the eldest of the New Zealand boys that were left with him,
died a short time after Omai: about Coah, the youngest, I had always
doubtful accounts till I came to Huaheine, where I learnt that he
likewise was dead.
CHAPTER 8.
Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.
Extraordinary domestic Arrangements.
Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.
A Sheep brought from Ulietea.
Heavy Storm.
Death of the Surgeon.
Taowne and Toahroah Harbours examined.
1788. November.
After dinner I went on shore and, while I was at the tents, from having
exposed myself too much in the sun, I was taken ill and continued in much
pain for near an hour. This was soon known among the natives and I was
exceedingly surprised to see Tinah and all the principal people, both men
and women, collecting round me and offering their assistance. For this
short illness I was made ample amends by the pleasure I received from the
attention and appearance of affection in these kind people.
Friday 14.
This morning I had numberless enquiries after my health. The weather
being fine I invited Tinah, Oreepyah, and Poeeno, to accompany me to
Tettaha in order to enquire after the cow; and soon after sunrise we set
off in the launch. Tettaha is nearly four leagues from Point Venus. On
our arrival Tinah sent a man to give notice of our visit. The chief of
the district, whose name was Teppahoo, did not appear, but sent a
messenger to demand if I came only to see the cow or to take it away with
me. In answer to this I sent assurances that I only desired to see it,
and the chiefs who were with me spoke to the same effect. I was then
desired to proceed in the boat farther along shore to the westward. In
our way Tinah made me stop among some fishing canoes to purchase fish for
him, which he eat raw with salt water for sauce. When we arrived at the
landing-place a great number of people had collected, and soon after
Teppahoo arrived. Oreepyah and I went with him about a quarter of a mile,
when I was shown one of the most beautiful heifers I ever saw. I asked if
they had any more but they all said there was no other than a bull at
Itteah, as before mentioned. I could not refrain from expressing my
displeasure at the destruction and the foolish separation of these fine
animals. I had shared with Captain Cook in the trouble of this business
and had been equally anxious for the success.
The district of Tettaha is not so luxuriant and fruitful as the country
about Matavai. As I saw nothing of consequence to detain me I made a
present to Teppahoo and, after inviting him to visit me on board the
ship, which he promised to do, I took leave. Tinah had remained all this
time in the boat. I observed that no respect was shown to him at this
place, nor was he able to procure a coconut or a breadfruit otherwise
than by purchasing it. The heifer being here is a proof of this district
not having been friendly to the people of Matavai and Oparre.
In our way back, having to row against the wind, we stopped to refresh at
Oparre, and it was eight o'clock by the time we arrived at the ship. I
kept my fellow travellers on board to supper and they did not fail to
remind me of the king's health.
Monday 17.
Our collection of breadfruit plants at the tents continued increasing.
This morning I sent twelve on board, in pots, to discover where they
would thrive the best, the air being more temperate on board the ship
than on shore. While I was absent from the ship Teppahoo had been on
board and left a hog as a present for me.
After dinner today Tinah, who was my constant visitor, left the table
sooner than usual. When he was gone Oreepyah, his brother, and Oedidde,
told me a piece of scandal, which had been before hinted to me but which
till now I had not heard of with certainty: this was that Iddeah, Tinah's
wife, kept a gallant, who was a towtow, or servant, and the very person
who always fed Tinah at dinner: and this was so far from being without
Tinah's knowledge or consent that they said it was by his desire. They
added many other circumstances and, as I appeared to doubt, they took
several opportunities in the course of the day of mentioning it to other
people, who all declared it was true.
Tuesday 18.
This afternoon I saw Teppahoo and invited him on board: before we parted
I bargained with him for the heifer which he promised to bring in five
days. My intention was that if I got the heifer I would endeavour to
purchase the bull at Itteah: but if that could not be done then I could
send the heifer as a present to the possessor of the bull, which might
equally well answer my purpose.
It has been mentioned that Tinah had a place in my cabin to keep those
things which I gave him as being more secure on board than on shore. I
had remarked lately that his hoard seemed to diminish the more I
endeavoured to increase it: at length I discovered that Iddeah kept
another hoard in the master's cabin, which she regularly enriched from
her husband's whenever I made him a present, apprehending that I should
cease giving when I saw Tinah's locker full. At his request I set the
carpenters to work to make him a chest large enough for himself and wife
to sleep on. Captain Cook had formerly given him such a chest but it had
been taken from him by the Eimeo people.
Friday 21.
This forenoon I received a message from Teppahoo to acquaint me the
heifer was brought to Matavai. I immediately went on shore and found that
he had been as good as his word. The purchase money was paid, which
consisted of a shirt, a hatchet, a spike nail, a knife, a pair of
scissors, a gimlet, and file; to which was added a small quantity of
loaf-sugar. Teppahoo appeared well pleased with his bargain; and I sent
the heifer to Poeeno's residence near which was plenty of grass.
In the afternoon I was invited to a heiva, the most extraordinary part of
which was an oration, with some ceremonies in compliment to us. Twelve
men were divided into four ranks, with two women in the front; behind
them all stood a priest who made a speech which lasted ten minutes and
which was listened to with some attention. During this the picture of
Captain Cook, which had been brought for that purpose, was placed by my
side. When the priest left off speaking a piece of white cloth was
wrapped round the picture and another piece round me. The priest then
spoke again for a short time, and an old man placed a piece of plaited
coconut leaf at my feet; the same was done to Tinah, and one piece was
put under the picture. After this the dancing began, which was in the
same style that we had already seen.
The head of the ship was the figure of a woman, and not ill carved. As we
were painting the ship's upper works I directed this figure to be painted
in colours, with which the islanders were much pleased. Not only the men
but the women desired me to bring English women when I came again. Today
Oedidde, thinking I was not convinced of the truth of what he had told me
about Iddeah, mentioned the affair to the lady herself in my hearing, at
which she laughed, but said he did ill to tell me of it. However it was
evident she was not much offended for they were both very much diverted
in discoursing upon the subject.
I find it is not at all uncommon for brothers to have connection with the
wives of each other, particularly elder brothers with the wives of their
younger brothers, which is generally allowed and no offence taken: but if
any person not belonging to the family endeavours at the same intimacy it
is resented as an injury. Inclination seems to be the only binding law of
marriage at Otaheite.
As I purposed to get instruments on shore at Point Venus to make
observations I desired Tinah to order a house to be brought there for me,
which was done and fixed in half an hour, being only a light shed
supported by posts.
Monday 24.
Today I bought a turtle that was caught on the reefs. As Tinah was going
to leave me for a few days I had it dressed for his dinner. He told me
that his mother, Oberreeroah, was arrived from the island Tethuroa, and
begged that I would send for her in the morning and take care of her till
he returned, which I willingly promised.
Tuesday 25.
This morning I sent a boat to Oparre, which returned in the afternoon
with Oberreeroah and two women, her servants. As she was old and
corpulent it was with difficulty that we helped her up the ship's side.
As soon as she was in the ship she sat down on the gangway and, clasping
my knees in her arms, expressed her pleasure at seeing me by a flood of
tears. Her servants then produced three pieces of cloth which, with a
large hog, some breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts, she had brought as a
present. As she was fatigued by her journey she wished to remain on board
all night, and I directed accommodations to be prepared, which was done
with little trouble as nothing more was necessary than a mat and some
cloth spread on the deck. She had with her a favourite cat, bred from one
that had been given her by Captain Cook. She told me all the misfortunes
that had befallen her son and friends since Captain Cook left Otaheite.
All the accounts agree in some of the cattle being now alive at the
island Eimeo: in the number they differ but that there were eight is the
least account.
Wednesday 26.
In the morning, Oberreeroah being desirous to go on shore, I made her a
present of several things, which she did not care to take with her then,
but requested that I would keep them safe for her. Only Moannah and
Poeeno dined with me today. They told me that Tinah and his brother
Oreepyah were not on good terms together, and it was imagined that they
would fight as soon as the ship was gone. I had observed a coolness
between them, and had at times endeavoured to make them more cordial, but
with very little effect. Their quarrel has arisen from a disagreement
between their wives.
In the afternoon a canoe from Ulietea arrived in which was an Earee or
chief of that island, who is a nephew to Oberreeroah. He brought a sheep
with him: the poor animal was infected with the mange and in very poor
condition. The climate had not as far as I could judge altered the
quality of the wool, with which he was well covered except a part about
the shoulders. I imagine this animal to be the English ewe left by
Captain Cook. The owner assured me that there were ten sheep at Huaheine;
the truth of which I much doubted. I was surprised and rather mortified
to find that he set so little value on this as to let me have it, at the
first word, for a small adze. I sent it to be kept at Poeeno's with the
heifer.
Friday 28.
Tinah and his wife returned to Matavai and, from appearances which I have
no reason to mistrust, were sincerely glad to see me again after their
short absence. They brought as usual a present of a hog and fruit. This
morning there was an eclipse of the sun, but the weather was so cloudy
that I had only an opportunity of observing the end of the eclipse, which
was at 19 hours 43 minutes 53 seconds.
Saturday 29.
I sent a man to shear the ewe, by which a remedy could more easily be
applied to cure the disease with which it was infected. The garden made
near the tents was not in a prosperous condition: most of the melons and
cucumbers were destroyed by insects; and the soil being sandy was not
favourable to the other seeds. I therefore chose another spot of ground
farther from the seaside and had an assortment of seeds sown.
December. Monday 1.
In the night the rudder of one of the boats was stolen from the tents. On
landing in the morning neither Tinah nor any of his family came near me,
being, I was informed, afraid of my displeasure. As the loss was not
great I immediately sent to assure them that I had no anger except
against the person who committed the theft. In consequence of this
message Tinah and some of the other chiefs came to the tents and promised
that they would exert themselves to discover the thief and get the rudder
restored. This was the first theft of any consequence that had been
committed since the tents were on shore, and my suspicions fell chiefly
on the people who were here from some of the other islands. Tinah had
just begun to build a house for himself and I promised that our
carpenters should assist him. Whydooah, the youngest brother of Tinah,
had lately been one of my constant visitors and seemed to have left off
his former custom of getting drunk with the Ava. He was esteemed one of
their best warriors; and I was told that in the quarrel with the people
of Eimeo he killed Maheine the chief of that island.
Friday 5.
The weather for some time past had been very unsettled. This afternoon
the wind blew fresh from the north-west, which occasioned the sea to
break very high across the Dolphin bank; and in the night such a heavy
broken sea came into the bay that we were obliged to batten all the
hatchways down, and to keep everybody upon deck all night though the rain
came down in torrents. The ship rolled in a most violent manner.
Saturday 6.
In the morning the wind increasing and, there being no possibility of
putting to sea, we struck yards and topmasts and trusted to our anchors.
The river swelled so much with the rain that the point of land on which
the tents stood became an island; and to preserve the breadfruit plants
from being endangered the people were obliged to cut a passage for the
river through a part of the beach at a distance from the tents. The sea
broke very high on the beach; nevertheless a canoe put off and to my
surprise Tinah, his wife, and Moannah made their way good through the
surf and came on board to see me. There was no other person in the canoe
for the weather did not admit of useless passengers: each of them had a
paddle which they managed with great activity and skill. These kind
people embraced me with many tears and expressed their apprehensions for
the safety of the ship. Towards noon however the sea abated considerably,
but the wind continued to blow strong from the north-west. At sunset
Iddeah went on shore but Tinah would remain with me the whole night.
Sunday 7.
The wind continued between the north and north-west but had so much
moderated that I no longer considered our situation to be alarming. At
noon Iddeah returned to the ship with a large hog and a supply of
breadfruit and coconuts; and soon after she and Tinah left the ship,
having exacted a promise from me that if the weather was moderate I would
go on shore in the morning and visit their parents and sister who, they
told me, had been much alarmed on our account. I received a visit
likewise from Poeeno and his wife. This woman had always shown great
regard for us; and now, on our meeting, before I could be aware of it,
she began beating her head violently with a shark's tooth so that her
face was covered with blood in an instant. I put a stop to this as soon
as I could, and with the drying up of the blood her agitation subsided.
This ceremony is frequently performed upon occasions either of joy or
grief. Her husband said that if any accident happened to the ship I
should live with him and that they would cut down trees and build me
another ship.
From this sample of the weather and the information of the natives I was
convinced it would not be safe to continue in Matavai Bay much longer;
and I determined to get everything ready for sailing as speedily as I
could.
Monday 8.
The night proved moderate and in the morning I went on shore where I was
received by Oberreeroah, and several other friends with great affection.
The plants received no injury from the bad weather having been carefully
covered from the spray of the sea: some were in a dormant state and
others were striking out young shoots. Nelson thought that it was better
to refrain a few days from taking them on board; I therefore consented to
defer it. He was of opinion that the plants could be propagated from the
roots only, and I directed some boxes to be filled as we could stow them
where no others could be placed.
Tuesday 9.
This afternoon, in hauling the launch on shore to be repaired, many of
the natives assisting, one of them, a fine boy about ten years old, was
thrown down and a roller which was placed under the boat went over him.
The surgeon being ill I sent off for his assistant. Fortunately no limb
was broken nor did he receive any material injury. The surgeon had been a
long time ill, the effect of intemperance and indolence. He had latterly
scarce ever stirred out of his cabin but was not apprehended to be in a
dangerous state; nevertheless this evening he appeared to be so much
worse than usual that it was thought necessary to remove him to some
place where he could have more air; but to no effect for he died in an
hour afterwards. This unfortunate man drank very hard and was so averse
to exercise that he never would be prevailed on to take half a dozen
turns upon deck at a time in the course of the voyage.
Wednesday 10.
As I wished to bury the surgeon on shore I mentioned it to Tinah, who
said there would be no objection but that it would be necessary to ask
his father's consent first; which he undertook to do and immediately left
me for that purpose. By this circumstance it appears that, though the
eldest son of an Earee succeeds to the title and honours of the father as
soon as he is born, yet a considerable portion of authority remains with
the father even after the son is of age. When Tinah returned I went with
him to the spot intended for the burial place, taking with us two men to
dig the grave; but on our arrival I found the natives had already begun
it. Tinah asked me if they were doing right? "There," says he, "the sun
rises and there it sets." The idea that the grave should be east and west
I imagine they learnt from the Spaniards, as the captain of one of their
ships was buried at Oeitepeha in 1774. Certain it is they had not the
information from anybody belonging to our ship; for I believe we should
not have thought of it. The grave however was marked out very exactly. At
four in the afternoon the body was interred: the chiefs and many of the
natives came to see the ceremony and showed great attention during the
service. Some of the chiefs were very inquisitive about what was to be
done with the surgeon's cabin on account of apparitions. They said when a
man died in Otaheite and was carried to the Tupapow that as soon as night
came he was surrounded by spirits, and if any person went there by
himself they would devour him: therefore they said that not less than two
people together should go into the surgeon's cabin for some time. I did
not endeavour to dissuade them from this belief otherwise than by
laughing and letting them know that we had no such apprehensions.
In the afternoon the effects of the deceased were disposed of and I
appointed Mr. Thomas Denman Ledward the surgeon's mate to do duty as
surgeon.
Friday 12.
I went in a boat to examine the harbours about Oparre and found two
formed by the reefs. The westernmost is the most convenient for sailing
in or out but is not well sheltered from a north-west wind or sea. This
harbour is called by the natives Taowne: it is about a league and a half
distant from Point Venus and may be known by a remarkable mountain,
called by the natives Wawry, which bears south-south-east from the
entrance.
The easternmost harbour is called Toahroah. It is small but as secure as
a reef harbour can well be. It is about three miles distant from Point
Venus. The chief objection to this harbour is the difficulty of getting
out with the common tradewind, the entrance being on the east side, not
more than one hundred yards wide and the depth without inconvenient for
warping. On the south side of the entrance is a Morai: the reef side is
to be kept on board and a lookout to be kept from aloft, whence the shoal
water is better discerned than from the deck.
Sunday 14.
This forenoon we performed divine service. Many of the principal natives
attended and behaved with great decency. Some of the women at one time
betrayed an inclination to laugh at our general responses; but on my
looking at them they appeared much ashamed. After the service I was asked
if no offering was to be made for the Eatua to eat.
The weather had been fair all the last week and at this time appeared
quite settled, so that I was under no apprehensions of danger from
continuing a little longer in Matavai bay.
CHAPTER 9.
A Walk into the Country.
The Peeah Roah.
Prevailed on by the Kindness of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.
Breadfruit Plants collected.
Move the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.
Fishing.
Three of the Ship's Company desert.
Indiscretion of our People on Shore.
Instances of Jealousy.
Mourning.
Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.
The Deserters recovered.
Tinah proposes to visit England.
1788. December. Wednesday 17.
This morning I took a walk into the country accompanied by Nelson and my
old friend Moannah. The breadth of the border of low land before we
arrived at the foot of the hills was near three miles. This part of our
journey was through a delightful country, well covered with breadfruit
and coconut-trees, and strewed with houses in which were swarms of
children. We then proceeded along a valley, still among houses, with
plantations of yams, tarro, the cloth-plant, and their favourite root the
Ava: there were breadfruit trees on the sides of the hills which were
dwarfs in comparison of those on the low land. Our walk was very much
interrupted by a river, the course of which was so serpentine that we had
to cross it several times, being carried over on men's shoulders.
On arriving at a Morai I saw a number of the natives collected and was
informed that the priests were performing their devotions. Sixteen men
were sitting on their heels; in the front was a pole covered with a
plaited coconut branch, and before each of the men there was a number of
small pieces of the same leaf plaited, which they call Hahyree, and each
had likewise a piece round his wrist. One who appeared to be the chief
priest prayed aloud, and was answered by all the rest together: after a
few short sentences and responses they rose and each carried an Hahyree,
which they placed at the foot of the pole and returned to prayer: this
was repeated till all the Hahyree were delivered and then the ceremony
ended. I must not forget to mention that they had placed near the pole an
offering of plantains and breadfruit, which they left for the Eatua. They
very kindly asked us to partake of a roasted hog that had been prepared
for them whilst they were praying; but as I wished to make the most of
the morning before the sun was too high I declined their offer, and
Moannah bespoke refreshments to be ready for us when we returned.
We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow, and had
advanced a considerable way beyond all the houses and plantations when we
were suddenly stopped by a cascade that fell into the river from a height
of above 200 feet: the fall at this time was not great but in the heavy
rains must be considerable. The natives look upon this as the most
wonderful sight in the island. The fall of water is the least curious
part; the cliff over which it comes is perpendicular, forming an
appearance as if supported by square pillars of stone, and with a
regularity that is surprising. Underneath is a pool eight or nine feet
deep into which the water falls; and in this place all the natives make a
point of bathing once in their lives, probably from some religious idea.
The hills here approach each other within a few yards and are well
covered with wood. As the road appeared difficult I did not care to
proceed towards the mountain. I cannot with certainty say how far this
curious precipice is from the bay, but think in the road by which we went
it cannot be less than seven miles. It is called Peeah Roah.
In our return we found a young pig prepared for us and we made a hearty
meal. We dined in the house of an old acquaintance of Nelson's for whom
he had in 1777 planted the two shaddock plants formerly mentioned which
he had brought from the Friendly Islands. These we had the satisfaction
to see were grown to fine trees and full of fruit.
In their plantations they do not take much pains except with the Ava and
the Cloth-plant, both of which they are careful to keep clear of weeds.
Many of the plantations of the cloth-plant were fenced with stone and
surrounded with a ditch. The yams and plantains are mostly on the higher
grounds. As soon as we had finished our dinner we returned towards the
ship. I was much delighted in this walk with the number of children that
I saw in every part of the country: they are very handsome and sprightly
and full of antic tricks. They have many diversions that are common with
the boys in England such as flying kites, cats cradle, swinging, dancing
or jumping in a rope, walking upon stilts and wrestling.
Friday 19.
The wind today blew fresh but continued regular from the east and
east-south-east. We had likewise much rain and a long swell set into the
bay. I had not yet determined whether, on leaving Matavai bay, I would go
to the island Eimeo or to the harbour of Toahroah near Oparre: this
uncertainty made Tinah and the rest of my friends very anxious; and they
appeared much distressed on my desiring them this afternoon to send on
board all the things which they wished to have repaired by the forge
without delay, that what they wanted might be done before the ship left
Matavai, which I told them would be in a few days. They very earnestly
entreated I would stay one month longer. I represented this as impossible
and asked Tinah if he would not go with me to Eimeo; but he said that
notwithstanding my protection he was certain the Eimeo people would watch
for an opportunity to kill him. He remained on board with me all night
but his wife went on shore and returned early in the morning, bringing
with her some axes and other things that were in need of repair.
Saturday 20.
When I went on shore I found Otow, Oberree-roah, Moannah, and several
others in great tribulation at the thoughts that we were so soon to leave
them. All the people of Matavai I saw were much concerned at my intention
of going to Eimeo, and took every opportunity to prejudice me against the
people of that island; to which I paid very little attention as their
motive was obvious.
Sunday 21.
Their expressions of friendship and affection for me however I could not
disregard, as I had no doubt of their being genuine and unaffected, and I
felt my unwillingness to leave these kind people so much increased that
the next day I sent the master in the launch to reexamine the depth of
water between this bay and Toahroah harbour. He returned in the evening
and acquainted me that he found a good bottom with not less than sixteen
fathoms depth all the way. The harbour of Toahroah appearing every way
safe I determined to get the ship there as speedily as possible, and I
immediately made my intention public, which occasioned great rejoicing.
Wednesday 24.
This day we took the plants on board, being 774 pots, all in a healthy
state; for whenever any plant had an unfavourable appearance it was
replaced by another. The number of those rejected was 302, of which not
one in ten but was found to be growing at the root.
The natives reckon eight kinds of the breadfruit tree, each of which they
distinguish by a different name. 1. Patteah. 2. Eroroo. 3. Awanna. 4.
Mi-re. 5. Oree. 6. Powerro. 7. Appeere. 8. Rowdeeah. In the first,
fourth, and eighth class the leaf differs from the rest; the fourth is
more sinuated; the eighth has a large broad leaf not at all sinuated. The
difference of the fruit is principally in the first and eighth class. In
the first the fruit is rather larger and more of an oblong form: in the
eighth it is round and not above half the size of the others. I enquired
if plants could be produced from the seed and was told they could not but
that they must be taken from the root. The plants are best collected
after wet weather, at which time the earth balls round the roots and they
are not liable to suffer by being moved.
The most common method of dividing time at Otaheite is by moons; but they
likewise make a division of the year into six parts, each of which is
distinguished by the name of the kind of breadfruit then in season. In
this division they keep a small interval called Tawa in which they do not
use the breadfruit. This is about the end of February when the fruit is
not in perfection; but there is no part of the year in which the trees
are entirely bare.
Thursday 25.
At daylight we unmoored and I sent the tents in the launch to Oparre with
directions that, after landing them, the launch should meet the ship in
the entrance of Toahroah harbour to show the safest part of the channel.
At half-past ten we got the ship under sail and ran down under top-sails:
when we were near the launch it fell calm and the ship shot past her. We
immediately let the anchor go but to our great surprise we found the ship
was aground forwards. She had run on so easy that we had not perceived it
at the time. This accident occasioned us much trouble as we were obliged
to send anchors out astern to get the ship afloat: in doing this one of
the cables swept a rock and was not got clear again without much
difficulty. When the ship was moored Point Venus bore north 46 degrees
east. The east point of the harbour north 65 degrees east one-quarter of
a mile. Our distance from the shore half a cable's length; depth of water
8 1/2 fathoms.
Friday 26.
The next morning on my landing I was welcomed by all the principal
people; I may say by the whole crowd, and congratulated on the safety of
the ship. Tinah showed me a house near the waterside abreast the ship,
which he desired I would make use of and which was large enough for all
our purposes. He and his brother Oreepyah then desired I would stay and
receive a formal address and present which they called Otee. To this I
assented and a stool was brought for me to sit on. They then left me with
Moannah and in a short time I saw Tinah returning with about twenty men
who all made a stop at some distance, and a priest said a short prayer to
the Eatua, to which the rest made reply. A man was then sent to me three
several times, at each time bringing me a small pig and the stem of a
plantain leaf. The first they told me was for the God of Brittannee, the
next for King George, and the last for myself. Moannah then got up and,
without being dictated to, made an oration for me; the purport of which I
understood to be that I received their offering with thanks; that we were
good people and friends; and therefore he exhorted them to commit no
thefts: he told them to bring their pigs, coconuts, and breadfruit, and
they would receive good things in return; that we took nothing without
their consent; and finally that every man was to quit the place (the
house we occupied) at night; for if they made any visit in the dark they
would be killed. With this speech the ceremony ended.
I found this a delightful situation and in every respect convenient. The
ship was perfectly sheltered by the reefs in smooth water and close to a
fine beach without the least surf. A small river with very good water
runs into the sea about the middle of the harbour. I gave directions for
the plants to be landed and the same party to be with them as at Matavai.
Tinah fixed his dwelling close to our station.
Monday 29.
Some of the natives took advantage of the butcher's negligence and stole
his cleaver. I complained of this to the chiefs who were on board and
they promised that they would endeavour to recover it; but an article so
valuable as this was to the natives I had no great expectation of seeing
restored.
The ship continued to be supplied by the natives as usual. Coconuts were
in such plenty that I believe not a pint of water was drunk on board the
ship in the twenty-four hours. Breadfruit began to be scarce though we
purchased without difficulty a sufficient quantity for our consumption:
there was however another harvest approaching which they expected would
be fit for use in five or six weeks. The better kind of plantains also
were become scarce; but a kind which they call vayhee were in great
plenty. This fruit does not hang on the trees like the other kinds but
grows upon an upright stalk of considerable strength and substance.
Though this plantain is inferior in quality to most of the others it
affords great subsistence to the natives. We received almost every day
presents of fish, chiefly dolphin and albacore, and a few small rock
fish. Their fishing is mostly in the night when they make strong lights
on the reefs which attract the fish to them. Sometimes in fine weather
the canoes are out in such numbers that the whole sea appears
illuminated. In the canoes they fish with hook and line and on the reefs
they struck the fish with a spear. Some likewise carry out small nets
which are managed by two men. In the daytime their fishing canoes go
without the reefs, sometimes to a considerable distance, where they fish
with rods and lines and catch bonetas and other fish. Whenever there is a
show of fish a fleet of canoes immediately proceeds to sea. Their hooks
being bright are used without bait in the manner of our artificial flies.
Their rods are made of bamboo; but when there are any very large fish
they make use of an outrigger over the fore part of the canoe, about
twenty-five feet in length, which has two prongs at the extremity, to
each of which is fastened a hook and line; and when a fish takes the hook
it is raised by ropes managed by two men in the stern of the canoe.
January 1789. Thursday 1.
Contrary to my expectation Tinah this afternoon brought on board the
cleaver that had been stolen. The thief had taken it to Attahooroo, and
Tinah told me, which I could easily believe, that it was given up with
reluctance.
Friday 2.
The next morning I offered Tinah a present of axes and other things but,
as he suspected this was meant by way of return for getting the cleaver
restored, he would not be prevailed with to accept a single article.
I had constantly the company of Tinah, his wife, and some of his
relations; but the royal children, though so near us, never came in sight
of the ship. The river separated them from the place occupied by our
people on shore and, for fear of giving alarm or offence, I gave strict
orders that no one should attempt to go near their place of residence.
Monday 5.
At the relief of the watch at four o'clock this morning the small cutter
was missing. I was immediately informed of it and mustered the ship's
company, when it appeared that three men were absent: Charles Churchill,
the ship's corporal and two of the seamen, William Musprat and John
Millward, the latter of whom had been sentinel from twelve to two in the
morning. They had taken with them eight stand of arms and ammunition; but
what their plan was, or which way they had gone, no one on board seemed
to have the least knowledge. I went on shore to the chiefs and soon
received information that the boat was at Matavai; and that the deserters
had departed in a sailing canoe for the island Tethuroa. On this
intelligence I sent the master to Matavai to search for the small cutter,
and one of the chiefs went with him; but before they had got halfway they
met the boat with five of the natives who were bringing her back to the
ship. This service rendered me by the people of Matavai pleased me much
and I rewarded the men accordingly.
I told Tinah and the other chiefs that I expected they would get the
deserters brought back; for that I was determined not to leave Otaheite
without them. They assured me that they would do everything in their
power to have them taken and it was agreed that Oreepyah and Moannah
should depart the next morning for Tethuroa. Oreepyah enquired if they
had pocket pistols "for," said he, "though we may surprise and seize them
before they can make use of their muskets, yet if they have pistols they
may do mischief, even while they are held." I quietened these
apprehensions by assuring them that the deserters had no pistols with
them.
Tuesday 6.
At daylight Oreepyah and Moannah set off in two canoes for Tethuroa, but
the weather became so boisterous that they were obliged to return in the
forenoon, and I was happy to see them get safe in as the sea ran very
high without the harbour. From the first of this month the weather and
winds had been much unsettled with a great deal of rain. Our former
station at Matavai appeared not at all safe, the sea at times breaking
high over the Dolphin bank and making a great swell in the bay. Oreepyah
and Moannah both promised me that they would sail again as soon as the
weather should be fine.
Friday 9.
The wind continued to blow strong at sea though in the harbour we had at
times but light breezes. Poeeno, from Matavai, came to see me today: he
said he was apprehensive that I was displeased with him on account of our
deserters having been carried to Tethuroa by a canoe from Matavai. This
he declared had been done before he heard of it; and that the only
service in his power he had not neglected to do for me, which was the
sending our boat back. As this was really an act of friendship I received
him with great cordiality; and he assured me that there could be no doubt
from the directions Tinah had given of the deserters being brought to the
ship as soon as the weather would admit canoes to go after them.
Saturday 10.
One of the officers this morning on shore inadvertently plucked a branch
from a tree called Tutuee, that bears the oil nut, which was growing at a
Morai. On entering with it into the house occupied by our people all the
natives, both men and women, immediately went away. When I went on shore
I found this branch tied to one of the posts of the house, although the
effect it had on the natives was known. I was much displeased at this
piece of wantonness and ordered the branch to be taken away; but the
natives notwithstanding would not come near the place. They said the
house was taboo, which I understand to signify interdicted, and that none
of them might approach it till the taboo was taken off, which could only
be done by Tinah. To take anything away from a Morai is regarded as a
kind of sacrilege and, they believe, gives great offence to the Eatua. At
my request Tinah took off the taboo, but not before the afternoon. This
was performed by an offering of a plantain leaf at the Morai, and a
prayer made to the Eatua. After this ceremony the house was resorted to
by the natives as usual.
I had not yet given up the hope of obtaining the bull from Itteah, though
I had hitherto received no satisfactory answer to the messages which
Tinah had sent at my desire: I therefore spoke to Poeeno who undertook to
negotiate this business, and I c
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