A Voyage to Terra Australis — Volume 1
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Title: A Voyage to Terra Australis — Volume 1
Author: Matthew Flinders
Release date: July 17, 2004 [eBook #12929]
Most recently updated: October 28, 2024
Language: English
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PRODUCTION NOTES:
Notes referred to in the book (*) are shown in square brackets ([])
at the end of the paragraph in which the note is indicated.
Italics are indicated by underscore characters (_) at the
start and finish of the italicised words.
References to the charts have been retained though, of course,
the charts are not present in the text only version of the ebook.
The original punctuation and spelling and the use of italics and capital
letters to highlight words and phrases have, for the most part, been
retained. I think they help maintain the "feel" of the book, which was
published nearly 200 years ago. Flinders notes in the preface that "I
heard it declared that a man who published a quarto volume without an
index ought to be set in the pillory, and being unwilling to incur the
full rigour of this sentence, a running title has been affixed to all the
pages; on one side is expressed the country or coast, and on the opposite
the particular part where the ship is at anchor or which is the immediate
subject of examination; this, it is hoped, will answer the main purpose
of an index, without swelling the volumes." This treatment is, of course,
not possible, where there are no defined pages. However, Flinders' page
headings are included at appropriate places where they seem relevant.
These, together with the Notes which, in the book, appear in the margin,
are represented as line headings with a blank line before and after them.
================================================================
A VOYAGE TO TERRA AUSTRALIS
UNDERTAKEN FOR THE PURPOSE OF COMPLETING THE DISCOVERY OF THAT
VAST COUNTRY,
AND PROSECUTED IN THE YEARS
1801, 1802 AND 1803,
IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP THE INVESTIGATOR,
AND SUBSEQUENTLY IN THE ARMED VESSEL PORPOISE
AND CUMBERLAND SCHOONER.
WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE SHIPWRECK OF THE PORPOISE,
ARRIVAL OF THE CUMBERLAND AT MAURITIUS, AND IMPRISONMENT OF THE
COMMANDER DURING SIX YEARS AND A HALF IN THAT ISLAND.
BY MATTHEW FLINDERS
COMMANDER OF THE INVESTIGATOR.
IN 2 VOLUMES WITH AN ATLAS.
VOLUME 1.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND ROW,
AND PUBLISHED BY G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY,
PALL-MALL.
1814
[Facsimile Edition, 1966]
TO
The Right Hon. George John, Earl Spencer,
The Right Hon. John, Earl of St Vincent,
The Right Hon. Charles Philip Yorke, and
The Right Hon. Robert Saunders, Viscount Melville,
who, as First Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,
successively honoured the Investigator's voyage
with their patronage,
This account of it is respectfully dedicated,
by
their Lordships'
most obliged, and
most obedient humble servant,
Matthew Flinders.
London,
20 May 1814.
PREFACE.
The publication in 1814 of a voyage commenced in 1801, and of which all
the essential parts were concluded within three years, requires some
explanation. Shipwreck and a long imprisonment prevented my arrival in
England until the latter end of 1810; much had then been done to forward
the account, and the charts in particular were nearly prepared for the
engraver; but it was desirable that the astronomical observations, upon
which so much depended, should undergo a re-calculation, and the lunar
distances have the advantage of being compared with the observations made
at the same time at Greenwich; and in July 1811, the necessary authority
was obtained from the Board of Longitude. A considerable delay hence
arose, and it was prolonged by the Greenwich observations being found to
differ so much from the calculated places of the sun and moon, given in
the Nautical Almanacks of 1801, 2 and 3, as to make considerable
alterations in the longitudes of places settled during the voyage; and a
reconstruction of all the charts becoming thence indispensable to
accuracy, I wished also to employ in it corrections of another kind,
which before had been adopted only in some particular instances.
A variety of observations with the compass had shown the magnetic needle
to differ from itself sometimes as much as six, and even seven degrees,
in or very near the same place, and the differences appeared to be
subject to regular laws; but it was so extraordinary in the present
advanced state of navigation, that they should not have been before
discovered and a mode of preventing or correcting them ascertained, that
my deductions, and almost the facts were distrusted; and in the first
construction of the charts I had feared to deviate much from the usual
practice. Application was now made to the Admiralty for experiments to be
tried with the compass on board different ships; and the results in five
cases being conformable to one of the three laws before deduced, which
alone was susceptible of proof in England, the whole were adopted without
reserve, and the variations and bearings taken throughout the voyage
underwent a systematic correction. From these causes the reconstruction
of the charts could not be commenced before 1813, which, when the extent
of them is considered, will explain why the publication did not take
place sooner; but it is hoped that the advantage in point of accuracy
will amply compensate the delay.
Besides correcting the lunar distances and the variations and bearings,
there are some other particulars, both in the account of the voyage and
in the Atlas, where the practice of former navigators has not been
strictly followed. Latitudes, longitudes, and bearings, so important to
the seaman and _un_interesting to the general reader, have hitherto been
interwoven in the text; they are here commonly separated from it, by
which the one will be enabled to find them more readily, and the other
perceive at a glance what may be passed. I heard it declared that a man
who published a quarto volume without an index ought to be set in the
pillory, and being unwilling to incur the full rigour of this sentence, a
running title has been affixed to all the pages; on one side is expressed
the country or coast, and on the opposite the particular part where the
ship is at anchor or which is the immediate subject of examination; this,
it is hoped, will answer the main purpose of an index, without swelling
the volumes. Longitude is one of the most essential, but at the same time
least certain _data_ in hydrography; the man of science therefore
requires something more than the general result of observations before
giving his unqualified assent to their accuracy, and the progress of
knowledge has of late been such, that a commander now wishes to know the
foundation upon which he is to rest his confidence and the safety of his
ship; to comply with this laudable desire, the particular results of the
observations by which the most important points on each coast are fixed
in longitude, as also the means used to obtain them, are given at the end
of the volume wherein that coast is described., as being there of most
easy reference.
The deviations in the Atlas from former practice, or rather the
additional marks used, are intended to make the charts contain as full a
journal of the voyage as can be conveyed in this form; a chart is the
seaman's great, and often sole guide, and if the information in it can be
rendered more complete without introducing confusion, the advantage will
be admitted by those who are not opposers of all improvement. In closely
following a track laid down upon a chart, seamen often run at night,
unsuspicious of danger if none be marked; but some parts of that track
were run in the night also, and there may consequently be rocks or
shoals, as near even as half a mile, which might prove fatal to them; it
therefore seems proper that night tracks should be distinguished from
those of the day, and they are so in this Atlas, I believe, for the first
time. A distinction is made between the situations at noon where the
latitude was observed, and those in which none could be obtained; and the
positions fixed in longitude by the time keepers are also marked in the
track, as are the few points where a latitude was obtained from the moon.
It has appeared to me, that to show the direction and strength of the
winds, with the kind of weather we had when running along these coasts,
would be an useful addition to the charts; not only as it would enable
those who may navigate by them alone to form a judgment of what is to be
expected at the same season, but also that it may be seen how far
circumstances prevented several parts of the coast being laid down so
correctly as others. This has been done by single arrows, wherever they
could be marked without confusion; they are more or less feathered,
proportionate to the strength of wind intended to be expressed, and the
arrows themselves give the direction. Under each is a short or abridged
word, denoting the weather; when this weather prevailed in a more than
usual degree a line is drawn under the word, and when in an excessive
degree there are two lines. Single arrows being thus appropriated to the
winds, the tides and currents are shown by double arrows, between which
is usually marked the rate per hour.
On the land, the shading of the hills gives a general idea of their
elevation, and it has been assisted by saying how far particular hills
and capes are visible from a ship's deck in fine weather; this will be
useful to a seaman on first making the land, be a better criterion to
judge of its height, and those hills not so marked may be more nearly
estimated by comparison. Behind different parts of the coast is given a
short description of their appearance, which it is conceived will be
gratifying to scientific, and useful to professional men. The capes and
hills whose positions are fixed by cross bearings taken on shore or from
well ascertained points in the track, as also the stations whence
bearings were observed with a theodolite, have distinguishing marks;
which, with all others not before in common use, are explained on the
General Chart, Plate I.
To have laid down no more than the lands and dangers seen in the
Investigator and other vessels under my command, would have left several
open spaces, and obliged the seaman to have recourse to other charts
where the difference of positions might have perplexed; the discoveries
and examinations of former navigators which come within the sphere of
each sheet, are therefore incorporated with, or added to mine, but so
marked as to be distinctly known. In making the combination, alterations
in their longitudes were frequently necessary to agreement; and that they
might be made with every regard to accuracy, the charts of the former
discoveries were compared with the astronomical observations, narratives,
or manuscript journals, when such could be had, and the alterations
introduced where there seemed to be the best authority. This has been
done with the charts of the east coast of New South Wales, published by
Mr. Dalrymple from the manuscripts, as it should appear, of captain Cook;
and since it may be thought presumptuous in me to have made alterations
in any work of so great a master, this case is selected for a more
particular explanation.
Time keepers were in their infancy in 1768, when captain Cook sailed upon
his first voyage, and he was not then furnished with them; his longitude
was therefore regulated only by occasional observations of lunar
distances and some few of Jupiter's satellites, which even in the present
improved state of instruments and tables, require to be connected by time
keepers before satisfactory conclusions can be drawn. Errors of greater
or less magnitude were thence unavoidable; at Cape Gloucester, where I
quitted the East Coast, my longitude was 20½' greater than captain Cook's
chart--at Cape York where the survey was again resumed, it was 58½; and
to incorporate the intermediate parts, it was necessary not only to carry
his scale of longitude 20½' more west, but also to reduce the extent of
the coast. The chart was compared with the narrative and chart in
Hawkesworth, and the log book of the Endeavour with them all; when it was
found that reductions might be made in various places upon one or more of
the above authorities, for differences between them were frequent and
sometimes considerable, and in one instance alone a reduction of 12' in
the chart was obtained. It is said in Hawkesworth (III, 202), "As soon as
we got within side the reef (through Providential Channel) we anchored in
nineteen fathom;" and afterwards (p. 204), that the channel, "bore E. N.
E. distant ten or twelve miles." In the first chart the distance is 14½
miles, and nearly the same in that which accompanies the narrative; but
in the log book it is said to be 2½ miles only, which corresponds with
having anchored as soon as they got within the reef, and has been
adopted. In some cases it was not easy to make a choice between these
different authorities; but I have commonly followed the narrative and log
book when they were found to specify with precision, and they generally
produced such corrections to the chart as brought the longitudes of
places nearer to my positions. Captain Cook's track in Plates XI. XII.
and XIII. is laid down afresh from the log book; and many soundings, with
some other useful particulars not to be found in the original chart, are
introduced, for the benefit of any navigator who may follow the same
route.
The reconstruction of the charts in the Atlas was done upon various
scales, but that no error might escape unseen, the least was of _ten_
inches to a degree of longitude; they were then reduced by Mr. Thomas
Arrowsmith to four inches, this being thought sufficiently large for a
general sailing scale; and each reduced sheet was scrupulously compared
by me with the original before it went into the engravers hands, and the
proof impressions with the drawing until no errors were found. To those
who may read this voyage with a view to geographical information, a
frequent reference to the Atlas is earnestly recommended; for many
particulars are there marked which it would have been tedious to
describe, and should any thing appear obscure in the narrative the charts
will generally afford an elucidation.
From the general tenour of the explanations here given, it will perhaps
be inferred that the perfection of the Atlas has been the principal
object of concern; in fact, having no pretension to authorship, the
writing of the narrative, though by much the most troublesome part of my
labour, was not that upon which any hope of reputation was founded; a
polished style was therefore not attempted, but some pains have been
taken to render it clearly intelligible. The first quire of my manuscript
was submitted to the judgment of a few literary friends, and I hope to
have profited by the corrections they had the kindness to make; but
finding these to bear more upon redundancies than inaccuracy of
expression, I determined to confide in the indulgence of the public,
endeavour to improve as the work advanced, and give my friends no further
trouble. Matter, rather than manner, was the object of my anxiety; and if
the reader shall be satisfied with the selection and arrangement, and not
think the information destitute of such interest as might be expected
from the subject, the utmost of my hopes will be accomplished.
* * *
N.B. Throughout this narrative _the variation has been allowed upon the
bearings, and also in the direction of winds, tides, etc._; the whole are
therefore to be considered with reference to the true poles of the earth,
unless it be otherwise particularly expressed; and perhaps in some few
cases of the ship's head when variations are taken, where the expression
_by compass_, or _magnetic_, may have been omitted.
A VOYAGE TO TERRA AUSTRALIS VOLUME I
TABLE OF CONTENTS. (For both volumes)
IN THE FIRST VOLUME.
INTRODUCTION.
PRIOR DISCOVERIES IN TERRA AUSTRALIS.
SECTION I.
NORTH COAST.
Preliminary Remarks:
Discoveries of the Duyfhen; of
Torres;
Carstens;
Pool;
Pietersen;
Tasman; and of
three Dutch vessels.
Of Cook;
M'Cluer;
Bligh;
Edwards;
Bligh and Portlock; and
Bampton and Alt.
Conclusive Remarks.
SECTION II.
WESTERN COASTS.
Preliminary Observations.
Discoveries of Hartog:
Edel:
of the Ship Leeuwin:
the Vianen:
of Pelsert:
Tasman:
Dampier:
Vlaming:
Dampier.
Conclusive Remarks.
SECTION III.
SOUTH COAST.
Discovery of Nuyts.
Examination of Vancouver:
of D'Entrecasteaux.
Conclusive Remarks.
SECTION IV.
EAST COAST, WITH VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.
PART I.
Preliminary Observations.
Discoveries of Tasman;
of Cook;
Marion and Furneaux.
Observations of Cook;
Bligh; and Cox.
Discovery of D'Entrecasteaux.
Hayes.
PART II.
Preliminary Information.
Boat expeditions of Bass and Flinders.
Clarke.
Shortland.
Discoveries of Bass to the southward of Port Jackson;
of Flinders;
and of Flinders and Bass.
Examinations to the northward by Flinders.
Conclusive Remarks.
BOOK I.
TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE
TO THE DEPARTURE FROM PORT JACKSON.
CHAPTER I.
Appointment to the Investigator.
Outfit of the ship.
Instruments, books, and charts supplied, with articles for presents and
barter.
Liberal conduct of the Hon. East-India Company.
Passage round to Spithead.
The Roar sand.
Instructions for the execution of the voyage.
French passport, and orders in consequence.
Officers and company of the Investigator, and men of science who
embarked.
Account of the time keepers.
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Spithead.
Variation of the compass.
The Dezertas.
Arrival at Madeira.
Remarks on Funchal.
Political state of the island.
Latitude and longitude.
Departure from Madeira.
The island St. Antonio.
Foul winds; and remarks upon them.
The ship leaky.
Search made for Isle Sable.
Trinidad.
Saxemberg sought for.
Variation of the compass.
State of the ship's company, on arriving at the Cape of Good Hope.
Refitment at Simon's Bay.
Observatory set Up.
The astronomer quits the expedition.
Rates Of the time keepers.
Some remarks on Simon's Bay.
CHAPTER III.
Departure from False Bay.
Remarks on the passage to Terra Australis.
Gravity of sea-water tried.
Cape Leeuwin, and the coast from thence to King George's Sound.
Arrival in the Sound.
Examination of the harbours.
Excursion inland.
Country, soil, and productions.
Native inhabitants: Language and anatomical measurement.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
CHAPTER IV.
Departure from King George's Sound.
Coast from thence to the Archipelago of the Recherche.
Discovery of Lucky Bay and Thistle's Cove.
The surrounding country, and islands of the Archipelago.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
Goose-Island Bay.
A salt lake.
Nautical observations.
Coast from the Archipelago to the end of Nuyts' Land.
Arrival in a bay of the unknown coast.
Remarks on the preceding examination.
CHAPTER V.
Fowler's Bay.
Departure from thence.
Arrival at the Isles of St. Francis.
Correspondence between the winds and the marine barometer.
Examination of the other parts of Nuyts' Archipelago, and of the main
coast.
The Isles of St Peter.
Return to St. Francis.
General remarks on Nuyts' Archipelago.
Identification of the islands in the Dutch chart.
CHAPTER VI.
Prosecution of the discovery of the unknown coast.
Anxious Bay.
Anchorage at Waldegrave's and at Flinders' Islands.
The Investigator's Group.
Coffin's Bay.
Whidbey's Isles.
Differences in the magnetic needle.
Cape Wiles.
Anchorage at Thistle's Island.
Thorny Passage.
Fatal accident.
Anchorage in Memory Cove.
Cape Catastrophe, and the surrounding country.
Anchorage in Port Lincoln, and refitment of the ship.
Remarks on the country and inhabitants.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
CHAPTER VII.
Departure from Port Lincoln.
Sir Joseph Banks' Group.
Examination of the coast, northward.
The ship found to be in a gulph.
Anchorage near the head of the gulph.
Boat expedition.
Excursion to Mount Brown.
Nautical observations.
Departure from the head, and examination of the east side of the gulph.
Extensive shoal.
Point Pearce.
Hardwicke Bay.
Verification of the time keepers.
General remarks on the gulph.
Cape Spencer and the Althorpe Isles.
New land discovered: Anchorage there.
General remarks on Kangaroo Island.
Nautical observations.
CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Kangaroo Island.
Examination of the main coast, from Cape Spencer eastward.
The Investigator's Strait.
A new gulph discovered. Anchorage at, and examination of the head.
Remarks on the surrounding land.
Return down the gulph.
Troubridge Shoal.
Yorke's Peninsula.
Return to Kangaroo Island.
Boat expedition to Pelican Lagoon.
Astronomical observations.
Kangaroo Island quitted.
Back-stairs Passage.
The coast from Cape Jervis, eastward.
Meeting, and communication with Le Geographe.
Remarks upon the French discoveries on the South Coast.
CHAPTER IX.
Examination of the coast resumed.
Encounter Bay.
The capes Bernouilli and Jaffa.
Baudin's Rocks.
Differences in the bearings on tacking.
Cape Buffon, the eastern limit of the French discovery.
The capes Northumberland and Bridgewater of captain Grant.
Danger from a south-west gale.
King's Island, in Bass' Strait: Anchorage there.
Some account of the island.
Nautical observations.
New Year's Isles.
Cape Otway, and the north-west entrance to Bass' Strait.
Anchorage in, and examination of Port Phillip.
The country and inhabitants.
Nautical observations.
CHAPTER X.
Departure from Port Phillip.
Cape Schanck.
Wilson's Promontory, and its isles.
Kent's Groups, and Furneaux's Isles.
Hills behind the Long Beach.
Arrival at Port Jackson.
Health of the ship's company.
Refitment and supply of the ship.
Price of provisions.
Volunteers entered.
Arrangement for the succeeding part of the voyage.
French ships.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
CHAPTER XI
Of the winds and currents on the south coast of Terra Australis,
and in Bass' Strait.
Usual progress of the gales.
Proper seasons for sailing eastward,
and for going westward:
best places of shelter in each case,
with some instructions for the Strait.
APPENDIX.
Account of the observations by which the _Longitudes_ of places on the
north coast of Terra Australis have been settled.
IN THE SECOND VOLUME.
BOOK II.
TRANSACTIONS DURING THE CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF TERRA AUSTRALIS,
FROM THE TIME OF LEAVING PORT JACKSON TO THE RETURN TO THAT PORT.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Port Jackson, with the Lady Nelson.
Examination of various parts of the East Coast, from thence to Sandy Cape.
Break-sea Spit.
Anchorage in Hervey's Bay, where the Lady Nelson joins after a separation.
Some account of the inhabitants.
Variations of the compass.
Run to Bustard Bay.
Port Curtis discovered, and examined.
Some account of the surrounding country.
Arrival in Keppel Bay, and examination of its branches,
one of which leads into Port Curtis.
Some account of the natives, and of the country round Keppel Bay.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
CHAPTER II.
The Keppel Isles, and coast to Cape Manifold.
A new port discovered and examined.
Harvey's Isles.
A new passage into Shoal-water Bay.
View from Mount Westall.
A boat lost.
The upper parts of Shoal-water Bay examined.
Some account of the country and inhabitants.
General remarks on the bay.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
CHAPTER III.
Departure from Shoal-water Bay, and anchorage in Thirsty Sound.
Magnetical observations.
Boat excursion to the nearest Northumberland Islands.
Remarks on Thirsty Sound.
Observations at West Hill, Broad Sound.
Anchorage near Upper Head.
Expedition to the head of Broad Sound:
another round Long Island.
Remarks on Broad Sound, and the surrounding country.
Advantages for a colony.
Astronomical observations, and remarks on the high tides.
CHAPTER IV.
The Percy Isles: anchorage at No. 2.
Boat excursions.
Remarks on the Percy Isles; with nautical observations.
Coral reefs: courses amongst them during eleven days search
for a passage through, to sea.
Description of a reef.
Anchorage at an eastern Cumberland Isle.
The Lady Nelson sent back to Port Jackson.
Continuation of coral reefs;
and courses amongst them during three other days.
Cape Gloucester.
An opening discovered, and the reefs quitted.
General remarks on the Great Barrier;
with some instruction relative to the opening.
CHAPTER V.
Passage from the Barrier Reefs to Torres' Strait.
Reefs named Eastern Fields.
Pandora's Entrance to the Strait.
Anchorage at Murray's Islands.
Communication with the inhabitants.
Half-way Island.
Notions on the formation of coral islands in general.
Prince of Wales's Islands, with remarks on them.
Wallis' Isles.
Entrance into the Gulph of Carpentaria.
Review of the passage through Torres' Strait.
CHAPTER VI.
Examination of the coast on the east side of the Gulph of Carpentaria.
Landing at Coen River.
Head of the Gulph.
Anchorage at Sweers' Island.
Interview with Indians at Horse-shoe Island.
Investigator's Road.
The ship found to be in a state of decay.
General remarks on the islands at the Head of the Gulph,
and their inhabitants.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
CHAPTER VII.
Departure from Sweers' Island.
South side of C. Van Diemen examined.
Anchorage at Bountiful Island: turtle and sharks there.
Land of C. Van Diemen proved to be an island.
Examination of the main coast to Cape Vanderlin.
That cape found to be one of a group of islands.
Examination of the islands; their soil, etc.
Monument of the natives.
Traces of former visitors to these parts.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Sir Edward Pellew's Group.
Coast from thence westward.
Cape Maria found to be an island.
Limmen's Bight. Coast northward to Cape Barrow: landing on it.
Circumnavigation of Groote Eylandt.
Specimens of native art at Chasm Island.
Anchorage in North-west Bay, Groote Eylandt;
with remarks and nautical observations.
Blue-mud Bay. Skirmish with the natives.
Cape Shield.
Mount Grindall.
Coast to Caledon Bay.
Occurrences in that bay, with remarks on the country and inhabitants.
Astronomical and nautical observations.
CHAPTER IX.
Departure from Caledon Bay.
Cape Arnhem.
Melville Bay.
Cape Wilberforce, and Bromby's Isles.
The English Company's Islands: meeting there with vessels from Macassar.
Arnhem Bay.
The Weasel's Islands.
Further examination of the North Coast postponed.
Arrival at Coepang Bay, in Timor.
Remarks and astronomical observations.
CHAPTER X.
Departure from Timor.
Search made for the Trial Rocks.
Anchorage in Goose-Island Bay.
Interment of the boatswain, and sickly state of the ship's company.
Escape from the bay, and passage through Bass' Strait.
Arrival at Port Jackson.
Losses in men.
Survey and condemnation of the ship.
Plans for continuing the survey;
but preparation finally made for returning to England.
State of the colony at Port Jackson.
CHAPTER XI.
Of the winds, currents, and navigation along the east coast of Terra
Australis, both without and within the tropic; also on the north coast.
Directions for sailing from Port Jackson, through Torres' Strait, towards
India or the Cape of Good Hope.
Advantages of this passage over that round New Guinea.
BOOK III.
OCCURRENCES FROM THE TIME OF QUITTING PORT JACKSON IN 1803,
TO ARRIVING IN ENGLAND IN 1810.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Port Jackson in the Porpoise,
accompanied by the Bridgewater and Cato.
The Cato's Bank.
Shipwreck of the Porpoise and Cato in the night.
The crews get on a sand bank; where they are left by the Bridgewater.
Provisions saved.
Regulations on the bank.
Measures adopted for getting back to Port Jackson.
Description of Wreck-Reef Bank.
Remarks on the loss of M. de La Pérouse.
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Wreck-Reef Bank in a boat.
Boisterous weather.
The Coast of New South Wales reached, and followed.
Natives at Point Look-out.
Landing near Smoky Cape; and again near Port Hunter.
Arrival at Port Jackson on the thirteenth day.
Return to Wreck Reef with a ship and two schooners.
Arrangements at the Bank.
Account of the reef, with nautical and other remarks.
CHAPTER III.
Passage in the Cumberland to Torres' Strait.
Eastern Fields and Pandora's Entrance.
New channels amongst the reefs.
Anchorage at Half-way Island, and under the York Isles.
Prince of Wales's Islands further examined.
Booby Isle.
Passage across the Gulph of Carpentaria.
Anchorage at Wessel's Islands.
Passage to Coepang Bay, in Timor; and to Mauritius,
where the leakiness of the Cumberland makes it necessary to stop.
Anchorage at the Baye du Cap, and departure for Port Louis.
CHAPTER IV.
Arrival at Port Louis (or North-West) in Mauritius.
Interview with the French governor.
Seizure of the Cumberland, with the charts and journals of the
Investigator's voyage; and imprisonment of the commander and people.
Letters to the governor, with his answer.
Restitution of some books and charts.
Friendly act of the English interpreter.
Propositions made to the governor.
Humane conduct of captain Bergeret.
Reflections on a voyage of discovery.
Removal to the Maison Despeaux or Garden Prison.
CHAPTER V.
Prisoners in the Maison Despeaux or Garden Prison.
Application to admiral Linois.
Spy-glasses and swords taken.
Some papers restored.
Opinions upon the detention of the Cumberland.
Letter of captain Baudin.
An English squadron arrives off Mauritius: its consequences.
Arrival of a French officer with despatches, and observations thereon.
Passages in the Moniteur, with remarks.
Mr. Aken liberated.
Arrival of cartels from India.
Applicatiou made by the marquis Wellesley.
Different treatment of English and French prisoners.
Prizes brought to Mauritius in sixteen months.
Departure of all prisoners of war.
Permission to quit the Garden Prison.
Astronomical observations.
CHAPTER VI.
Parole given.
Journey into the interior of Mauritius.
The governor's country seat.
Residence at the Refuge, in that Part of Williems Plains called Vacouas.
Its situation and climate, with the mountains, rivers, cascades, and
views near it.
The Mare aux Vacouas and Grand Bassin.
State of cultivation and produce of Vacouas;
its black ebony, game, and wild fruits; and freedom from noxious insects.
CHAPTER VII.
Occupations at Vacouas.
Hospitality of the inhabitants.
Letters from England.
Refusal to be sent to France repeated.
Account of two hurricanes, of a subterraneous stream and circular pit.
Habitation of La Pérouse.
Letters to the French marine minister, National Institute, etc.
Letters from Sir Edward Pellew.
Caverns in the Plains of St. Piérre.
Visit to Port Louis.
Narrative transmitted to England.
Letter to captain Bergeret on his departure for France.
CHAPTER VIII
Effects of repeated disappointment on the mind.
Arrival of a cartel, and of letters from India.
Letter of the French marine minister.
Restitution of papers.
Applications for liberty evasively answered.
Attempted seizure of private letters.
Memorial to the minister.
Encroachments made at Paris on the Investigator's discoveries.
Expected attack on Mauritius produces an abridgment of Liberty.
Strict blockade.
Arrival of another cartel from India.
State of the public finances in Mauritius.
French cartel sails for the Cape of Good Hope.
CHAPTER IX.
A prospect of liberty, which is officially confirmed.
Occurrences during eleven weeks residence in the town of Port Louis
and on board the Harriet cartel.
Parole and certificates.
Departure from Port Louis, and embarkation in the Otter.
Eulogium on the inhabitants of Mauritius.
Review of the conduct of general De Caen.
Passage to the Cape of Good Hope, and after seven weeks stay,
from thence to England.
Conclusion.
APPENDIX.
No. I.
Account of the observations by which the _Longitudes_ of places on the
east and north coasts of Terra Australis have been settled.
No. II.
On the errors of the compass arising from attractions within the ship,
and others from the magnetism of land; with precautions for obviating
their effects in marine surveying.
No. III.
General Remarks, geographical and systematical, on the Botany of Terra
Australis. By ROBERT BROWN,
F. R. S. _Acad. Reg. Scient. Berolin. Corresp._ NATURALIST TO THE VOYAGE.
A LIST OF THE PLATES, WITH DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.
IN VOLUME I.
View from the south side of King George's Sound.
Entrance of Port Lincoln, taken from behind Memory Cove.
View on the north side of Kangaroo Island.
View of Port Jackson, taken from the South Head.
IN VOLUME II.
View of Port Bowen, from behind the Watering Gully.
View of Murray's Islands, with the natives offering to barter.
View in Sir Edward Pellew's Group--Gulph of Carpentaria.
View of Malay Road, from Pobassoo's Island.
View of Wreck-Reef Bank, taken at low water.
IN THE ATLAS.
Plate.
I. General Chart of TERRA AUSTRALIS and the neighbouring lands,
from latitude 7° to 44½° south, and longitude 102° to 165° east.
II. Particular chart of the South Coast, from Cape Leeuwin to
the Archipelago of the Recherche.
III. Ditto from the Archipelago of the Recherche to past the head
of the great Australian Bight.
IV. Ditto from the head of the great Australian Bight to past
Encounter Bay.
V. Ditto from near Encounter Bay to Cape Otway at the west entrance
of Bass' Strait.
VI. Ditto from Cape Otway, past Cape Howe, to Barmouth Creek.
VII. Particular chart of Van Diemen's Land.
VIII. Particular chart of the East Coast, from Barmouth Creek
to past Cape Hawke.
IX. Ditto from near Cape Hawke to past Glass-house Bay.
X. Ditto from Glass-house Bay to Broad Sound.
XI. Ditto from Broad Sound to Cape Grafton.
XII. Ditto from Cape Grafton to the Isle of Direction.
XIII. Particular chart of the East Coast from the I. of Direction
to Cape York, and of the North Coast from thence to Pera Head;
including Torres Strait and parts of New Guinea.
XIV. A particular chart of the North Coast, from Torres' Strait
to Point Dale and the Wessel's Islands, including the whole
of the Gulph of Carpentaria.
XV. The north-west side of the Gulph of Carpentaria, on a large scale.
XVI. Particular chart of Timor and some neighbouring islands.
XVII. Fourteen views of headlands, etc. on the south coast
of Terra Australis.
XVIII. Thirteen views on the east and north coasts,
and one of Samow Strait.
AND
Ten plates of selected plants from different parts of Terra Australis.
THE READER IS REQUESTED TO CORRECT THE FOLLOWING ERRATA.
[Errors have been corrected in this ebook]
INTRODUCTION.
The voyages which had been made, during the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries, by Dutch and by English navigators, had successively brought
to light various extensive coasts in the southern hemisphere, which were
thought to be united; and to comprise a land, which must be nearly equal
in magnitude to the whole of Europe. To this land, though known to be
separated from all other great portions of the globe, geographers were
disposed to give the appellation of Continent: but doubts still existed,
of the continuity of its widely extended shores; and it was urged, that,
as our knowledge of some parts was not founded upon well authenticated
information, and we were in total ignorance of some others, these coasts
might, instead of forming one great land, be no other than parts of
different large islands.
The establishment, in 1788, of a British colony on the easternmost, and
last discovered, of these new regions, had added that degree of interest
to the question of their continuity, which a mother country takes in
favour, even, of her outcast children, to know the form, extent, and
general nature of the land, where they may be placed. The question had,
therefore, ceased to be one in which geography was alone concerned: it
claimed the paternal consideration of the father of all his people, and
the interests of the national commerce seconded the call for
investigation.
Accordingly, the following voyage was undertaken by command of HIS
MAJESTY, in the year 1801; in a ship of 334 tons, which received the
appropriate name of the INVESTIGATOR; and, besides great objects of
clearing up the doubt respecting the unity of these southern regions, and
of opening therein fresh sources to commerce, and new ports to seamen, it
was intended, that the voyage should contribute to the advancement of
natural knowledge in various branches; and that some parts of the
neighbouring seas should he visited, wherein geography and navigation had
still much to desire.
The vast regions to which this voyage was principally directed,
comprehend, in the western part, the early discoveries of the Dutch,
under the name of NEW HOLLAND; and in the east, the coasts explored by
British navigators, and named NEW SOUTH WALES. It has not, however, been
unusual to apply the first appellation to both regions; but to continue
this, would be almost as great an injustice to the British nation, whose
seamen have had so large a share in the discovery, as it would be to the
Dutch, were New South Wales to be so extended. This appears to have been
felt by a neighbouring, and even rival, nation; whose writers commonly
speak of these countries under the general term of _Terres Australes_. In
fact, the original name, used by the Dutch themselves until some time
after Tasman's second voyage, in 1644, was _Terra Australis_, or _Great
South Land_; and when it was displaced by New Holland, the new term was
applied only to the parts lying _westward_ of a meridian line, passing
through Arnhem's Land on the north., and near the isles of St. Francis
and St. Peter, on the south: all to the eastward, including the shores of
the Gulph of Carpentaria, still remained as Terra Australis. This appears
from a chart published by THEVENOT, in 1663; which, he says, "was
originally taken from that done in inlaid work, upon the pavement of the
new Stadt-House at Amsterdam." * The same thing is to be inferred from the
notes of Burgomaster WITSEN, in 1705; of which there will be occasion to
speak in the sequel.
[* "La carte que l'on a mise icy, tire sa première origine de celle que
l'on a fait tailler de piéces rapportées, sur le pavé de la nouvelle
Maison-de-Ville d'Amsterdam." _Rélations de divers Voyages
curieux._--Avis.]
It is necessary, however, to geographical precision, that so soon as New
Holland and New South Wales were known to form one land, there should be
a general name applicable to the whole; and this essential point having
been ascertained in the present voyage, with a degree of certainty
sufficient to authorise the measure, I have, with the concurrence of
opinions entitled to deference, ventured upon the re-adoption of the
_original_ TERRA AUSTRALIS; and of this term I shall hereafter make use,
when speaking of New Holland and New South Wales, in a collective sense;
and when using it in the most extensive signification, the adjacent
isles, including that of Van Diemen, must be understood to be
comprehended.
There is no probability, that any other detached body of land, of nearly
equal extent, will ever be found in a more southern latitude; the name
Terra Australis will, therefore, remain descriptive of the geographical
importance of this country, and of its situation on the globe: it has
antiquity to recommend it; and, having no reference to either of the two
claiming nations, appears to be less objectionable than any other which
could have been selected.*
[* Had I permitted myself any innovation upon the original term, it would
have been to convert it into AUSTRALIA; as being more agreeable to the
ear, and an assimilation to the names of the other great portions of the
earth.]
In dividing New South Wales from New Holland, I have been guided by the
British patent to the first governor of the new colony, at Port Jackson.
In this patent, a meridian, nearly corresponding to the ancient line of
separation, between New Holland and Terra Australis, has been made the
western limit of New South Wales; and is fixed at the longitude of 135°
east, from the meridian of Greenwich. From hence, the British territory
extends eastward, to the islands of the _Pacific_, or _Great Ocean_: its
northern limit is at _Cape York_; and the extremity of the southern _Van
Diemen's Land_, is its opposite boundary.
The various discoveries which had been made upon the coasts of Terra
Australis, antecedently to the present voyage, are of dates as widely
distant, as are the degrees of confidence to which they are respectively
entitled; the accounts, also, lie scattered through various books in
different languages; and many are still in manuscript. It has, therefore,
been judged, that a succinct history of these discoveries would be
acceptable to the public; and would form an appropriate introduction to a
voyage, whose principal object was to complete what they had left
unfinished. Such a history will not only, it is hoped, be found
interesting, but, from the occasions it will furnish to point out what
remained to be done at the beginning of the nineteenth century, will
satisfy a question which may be asked: Why it should have been thought
necessary to send another expedition to explore the coasts of a country,
concerning which it has been said, near thirty years ago--"It is no
longer a doubt, that we have now a full knowledge of the whole
circumference of this vast body of land, this fifth part of the world." *
An expression, which the learned writer could have intended to apply only
to the general extent of the new continent, and not to the particular
formation of every part of the coasts; since the chart, which accompanies
the voyage of which he was writing the introduction, represents much of
the south coast, as being totally unknown.
[* _Cook's third Voyage_, Introduction. p. xv.]
In tracing a historical sketch of the previous discoveries, I shall not
dwell upon such as depend upon conjecture and probability, but come
speedily to those, for which there are authentic documents. In this
latter, and solely important, class, the articles extracted from voyages,
which are in the hands of the public, will be abridged to their leading
heads; and the reader referred, for the details, to the original works;
but in such articles as have either not appeared before, or but very
imperfectly, in an English dress, as also in those extracted from
unpublished manuscripts, a wider range will be taken: in these, so far as
the documents go, on the one hand, and the limits of an introduction can
allow, on the other, no interesting fact will be omitted.
Conformably to this plan, no attempt will be made to investigate the
claims of the _Chinese_ to the earliest knowledge of Terra Australis;
which some, from the chart of _Marco Polo_, have thought they possessed.
Nor yet will much be said upon the plea advanced by the Abbé PRÉVOST,*
and after him by the President DEBROSSES,** in favour of _Paulmier de
Gonneville_, a French captain; for whom they claim the honour of having
discovered Terra Australis, in 1504. It is evident from the proofs they
adduce, that it was not to any part of this country, but to Madagascar,
that Gonneville was driven; and from whence he brought his prince
Essomeric, to Normandy.
[* _Histoire générale des Voyages_. Tome XVI. (à la Haye) p. 7-14.]
[** _Histoire des Navigations aux Terres Australes_. Tome I. p. 102-120.]
Within these few years, however, two curious manuscript charts have been
brought to light; which have favoured an opinion, that Terra Australis
had really been visited by Europeans, nearly a century before any
authentic accounts speak of its discovery. One of these charts is in
French, without date; and from its almost exact similitude, is probably
either the original, or a copy of the other, which is in English; and
bears, with the date 1542, a dedication to the KING OF ENGLAND.* In it,
an extensive country is marked to the southward of the Moluccas, under
the name of GREAT JAVA; which agrees nearer with the position and extent
of Terra Australis, than with any other land; and the direction given to
some parts of the coast, approaches too near to the truth, for the whole
to have been marked from conjecture alone. But, combining this with the
exaggerated extent of Great Java in a southern direction, and the animals
and houses painted upon the shores, such as have not been any where seen
in Terra Australis, it should appear to have been partly formed from
vague information, collected, probably, by the early Portuguese
navigators, from the eastern nations; and that conjecture has done the
rest. It may, at the same time, be admitted, that a part of the west and
north-west coasts, where the coincidence of form is most striking, might
have been seen by the Portuguese themselves, before the year 1540, in
their voyages to, and from, India.
[* A more particular account of these charts, now in the _British
Museum_, will be found in Captain Burney's "_History of Discoveries in
the South Sea_." Vol. I. p. 379-383. An opinion is there expressed
concerning the early discoveries in these regions, which is entitled to
respectful attention.]
But quitting those claims to original discovery, in which conjecture
bears so large a share, we come to such as are supported by undeniable
documents. Before entering upon these, it is proper to premise, that,
instead of following precisely the order of time, these discoveries will
be classed under the heads of the different coasts upon which they were
made: an arrangement which will obviate the confusion that would arise
from being carried back from one coast to another, as must, of necessity,
be the case, were the chronological order to be strictly followed.
The discoveries made in Terra Australis, _prior to the Investigator's
voyage_, will, therefore, be divided into four Sections, under the
following heads: 1. The NORTH COAST; 2. The WESTERN COASTS; 3. The SOUTH
COAST; and, 4. The EAST COAST with VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. But the articles in
the fourth Section, being numerous and more extensive, will be divided
into two parts: PART I. will contain the early discoveries, and such of
the later, as were made independently of the British colony in New South
Wales; and PART II. those which were made in vessels sent from that
colony; and which may be considered as a consequence of its
establishment.
PRIOR DISCOVERIES IN TERRA AUSTRALIS.
SECTION I.
NORTH COAST.
Preliminary Remarks:
Discoveries of the Duyfhen; of
Torres;
Carstens;
Pool;
Pietersen;
Tasman; and of
three Dutch vessels.
Of Cook;
M'Cluer;
Bligh;
Edwards;
Bligh and Portlock; and
Bampton and Alt.
Conclusive Remarks.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS
The late Hydrographer to the Admiralty, ALEXANDER DALRYMPLE, Esq., in his
curious _Collection concerning_ PAPUA, published, with a translation, a
paper which furnishes more regular and authentic accounts of the early
Dutch discoveries in the East, than any thing with which the public was
before acquainted. This interesting paper was procured by the Right Hon.
Sir Joseph Banks; and is a copy of the instructions to commodore ABEL
JANSZ TASMAN, for his _second_ voyage of discovery: It is dated January
29, 1644, from the _Castle of Batavia_, and signed by the
governor-general ANTONIO VAN DIEMEN, and by _Vander Lyn_, _Maatsuyker_,
_Schouten_, and _Sweers_, members of the council. The instructions are
prefaced with a recital, in chronological order, of the previous
discoveries of the Dutch, whether made from accident or design, in NOVA
GUINEA, and the _Great_ SOUTH LAND; and from this account, combined with
a passage from Saris,* it appears, that--
THE DUYFHEN. 1606.
On the 18th of November 1605, the Dutch yacht, the _Duyfhen_, was
dispatched from Bantam to explore the islands of New Guinea; and that she
sailed along, what was thought to be, the west side of that country, to
13¾° of south latitude. "This extensive country was found, for the
greatest part, desert; but, in some places, inhabited by wild, cruel,
black savages; by whom some of the crew were murdered. For which reason
they could not learn anything of the land, or waters, as had been desired
of them; and, from want of provisions and other necessaries, they were
obliged to leave the discovery unfinished: The furthest point of the
land, in their map, was called Cape KEER-WEER," or Turn-again.
(ATLAS, Pl. I.)
The course of the Duyfhen, from New Guinea, was southward, along the
islands on the west side of Torres' Strait, to that part of Terra
Australis, a little to the west and south of Cape York; but all these
lands were thought to be connected, and to form the west coast of New
Guinea. Thus, without being conscious of it, the commander of the Duyfhen
made the first authenticated discovery of any part of the great South
Land, about the month of March 1606; for it appears, that he had returned
to Banda in, or before, the beginning of June, of that year.
TORRES 1606
LUIS VAES DE TORRES, a Spanish navigator, was the next person who saw
Terra Australis; and it is remarkable, that it was near the same place,
and in the same year; and that he had as little knowledge of the nature
of his discovery, as had the Duyfhen.
Torres was second in command to Pedro Fernandez de Quiros; when he sailed
with three vessels, from the port of Callao in Peru, in the year 1605.
One of the purposes of their expedition was to search for the TIERRA
AUSTRAL; a continent which was supposed to occupy a considerable portion
of that part of the southern hemisphere lying westward of America.
After the discovery of several islands, Quiros came to a land which he
named AUSTRALIA DEL ESPIRITU SANTO, supposing it to be a part of the
great Southern Continent; but this, on his separation from the admiral,
Torres found could be no other than an island; and then continued his
course westward, in prosecution of the research.
About the month of August 1606, and in latitude 11½° south, he fell in
with a coast, which he calls "the beginning of New Guinea;" and which
appears to have been the south-eastern part of the land, afterwards named
Louisiade, by Mons. DE BOUGAINVILLE, and now known to be a chain of
islands. Unable to pass to windward of this land, Torres bore away along
its south side; and gives, himself, the following account of his
subsequent proceedings.
"We went along 300 leagues of coast, as I have mentioned, and diminished
the latitude 2½°, which brought us into 9°. From hence we fell in with a
bank of from 3 to 9 fathoms, which extends along the coast above 180
leagues. We went over it along the coast to 7½ S. latitude, and the end
of it is in 5°. We could not go further on for the many shoals and great
currents, so we were obliged to sail S. W. in that depth to 11°. S.
latitude. There is all over it an archipelago of islands without number,
by which we passed, and at the end of the 11th degree, the bank became
shoaler. Here were very large islands, and there appeared more to the
southward: they were inhabited by black people, very corpulent, and
naked: their arms were lances, arrows, and clubs of stone ill fashioned.
We could not get any of their arms. We caught in all this land 20 persons
of different nations, that with them we might be able to give a better
account to Your Majesty. They give much notice of other people, although
as yet they do not make themselves well understood.
"We were upon this bank two months, at the end of which time we found
ourselves in 25 fathoms, and in 5° S. latitude, and 10 leagues from the
coast. And having gone 480 leagues, here the coast goes to the N. E. I
did not reach it, for the bank became very shallow. So we stood to the
north." *
[* See the letter of Torres, dated Manila, July 12, 1607, in Vol. II.
Appendix, No I. to Burney's "_History of Discoveries in the South Sea_;"
from which interesting work this sketch of Torres' voyage is extracted.]
It cannot be doubted, that the "very large islands" seen by Torres, at
the 11th degree of south latitude, were the hills of Cape York; or that
his _two months_ of intricate navigation were employed in passing the
strait which divides Terra Australis and New Guinea. But the account of
this and other discoveries, which Torres himself addressed to the King of
Spain, was so kept from the world, that the existence of such a strait
was generally unknown, until 1770; when it was again discovered and
passed by our great circumnavigator Captain Cook.
Torres, it should appear, took the precaution to lodge a copy of his
letter in the archives of Manila; for, after that city was taken by the
British forces, in 1762, Mr. Dalrymple found out, and drew from oblivion,
this interesting document of early discovery; and, as a tribute due to
the enterprising Spanish navigator, he named the passage TORRES' STRAIT;
and the appellation now generally prevails.
ZEACHEN. 1618.
ZEACHEN is said to have discovered the land of Arnhem and the northern
Van Diemen's Land, in 1618; and he is supposed, from the first name, to
have been a native of Arnhem, in Holland; and that the second was given
in honour of the governor-general of the Indies.* But there are two
important objections to the truth of this vague account: first, no
mention is made of Zeachen in the recital of discoveries which preface
the instructions to Tasman; nor is there any, of the North Coast having
been visited by the Dutch, in that year: secondly, it appears from
_Valentyn's_ lives of the governors of Batavia, that Van Diemen was not
governor-general until January 1, 1636.
[* _Hist. des Navigations aux Terres Aust._ Tome 1. p. 432.]
CARSTENS. 1623.
The second expedition, mentioned in the Dutch recital, for the discovery
of the Great South Land, "was undertaken in a yacht, in the year 1617,
with little success;" and the journals and remarks were not to be found.
In January 1623, the yachts _Pera_ and _Arnhem_, under the command of JAN
CARSTENS, were despatched from _Amboina_, by order of His Excellency Jan
Pieterz Coen. Carstens, with eight of the Arnhem's crew, was
treacherously murdered by the natives of New Guinea; but the vessels
prosecuted the voyage, and _discovered_ "the great islands ARNHEM and the
SPULT." * They were then "untimely separated," and the Arnhem returned to
Amboina. The Pera persisted; and "sailed along the south coast of New
Guinea, to a flat cove, situate in 10° south latitude; and ran along the
West Coast of this land to Cape Keer-Weer; from thence discovered the
coast further southward, as far as 17°, to STATEN RIVER. From this place,
what more of the land could be discerned, seemed to stretch _westward_:"
the Pera then returned to Amboina. "In this discovery were found, every
where, shallow water and barren coasts; islands altogether thinly peopled
by divers cruel, poor, and brutal nations; and of very little use to the
(Dutch East-India) Company."
[* In the old charts, a river Spult is marked, in the western part of
Arnhem's Land; and it seems probable, that the land in its vicinity is
here meant by THE SPULT.]
POOL. PIETERSEN. 1636.
GERRIT TOMAZ POOL was sent, in April 1636, from _Banda_, with the yachts
_Klyn Amsterdam_ and _Wezel_, upon the same expedition as Carstens; and,
at the same place, on the coast of New Guinea, he met with the same fate.
Nevertheless "the voyage was assiduously continued under the charge of
the supra-cargo Pieterz Pietersen; and the islands _Key_ and _Arouw_
visited. By reason of very strong eastwardly winds, they could not reach
the west coast of New Guinea (Carpentaria); but shaping their course very
near south, discovered the coast of Arnhem, or Van Diemen's Land, in 11°
south latitude; and sailed along the shore for 120 miles (30 mijlen),
without seeing any people, _but many signs of smoke_."
TASMAN. 1644.
This is all that appears to have been known of the North Coast, when ABEL
JANSZ TASMAN sailed upon his second voyage, in 1644; for the instructions
to him say, that after quitting "Point Ture, or False Cape, situate in 8°
on the south coast of New Guinea, you are to continue eastward, along the
coast, to 9° south latitude; crossing prudently the _Cove_ at that place.
Looking about the _high islands_ or _Speult's River_, with the yachts,
for a harbour; despatching the tender _De Braak_, for two or three days
into the Cove, in order to discover whether, within the GREAT INLET,
there be not to be found an entrance into the South Sea.* From this place
you are to coast along the west coast of New Guinea. (Carpentaria,) to
the furthest discoveries in 17° south latitude; following the coast
further, as it may run, west or southward."
[* The Great Inlet or Cove, where the passage was to be sought, is the
north-west part of Torres' Strait. It is evident, that a suspicion was
entertained, in 1644, of such a strait; but that the Dutch were ignorant
of its having been passed. The "high islands" are those which lie in
latitude 10°, on the west side of the strait. Speult's River appears to
be the opening betwixt the Prince of Wales' Islands and Cape York;
through which captain Cook afterwards passed, and named it Endeavour's
Strait. This _Speult's River_ cannot, I conceive, be the same with what
was before mentioned under the name of THE SPULT.]
"But it is to be feared you will meet, in these parts, with the
south-east trade winds; from which it will be difficult to keep the coast
on board, if stretching to the south-east; but, notwithstanding this,
endeavour by all means to proceed; that we may be sure whether this land
is divided from the _Great Known_ SOUTH CONTINENT, or not."
The Dutch had, by this time, acquired some knowledge of a part of the
south coast of Terra Australis; of the west coast; and of a part of the
north-west; and these are the lands meant by "the Great Known South
Continent." Arnhem's, and the northern Van Diemen's Lands, on the North
Coast, are not included in the expression; for Tasman was directed "from
_De Witt's Land_ (on the North-west Coast,) to run across, very near
eastward, to complete the discovery of _Arnhem's_ and _Van Diemen's
Lands_; and to ascertain perfectly, whether these lands are not _one and
the same island_."
It is a great obstacle to tracing correctly the progress of early
discovery in Terra Australis, that no account of this voyage of Tasman
has ever been published; nor is any such known to exist. But it seems to
have been the general opinion, that he sailed round the _Gulph of
Carpentaria_; and then westward, along _Arnhem's_ and the northern _Van
Diemen's Lands_; and the form of these coasts in Thevenot's chart of
1663, and in those of most succeeding geographers, even up to the end of
the eighteenth century, is supposed to have resulted from this voyage.
The opinion is strengthened by finding the names of Tasman, and of the
governor-general and two of the council, who signed his instructions,
applied to places at the head of the Gulph; as is also that of _Maria_,
the daughter of the governor, to whom our navigator is said to have been
attached. In the notes, also, of Burgomaster Witsen, concerning the
inhabitants of NOVA GUINEA and HOLLANDIA NOVA, as extracted by Mr.
Dalrymple; Tasman is mentioned amongst those, from whom his information
was drawn.
THREE DUTCH VESSELS. 1705.
The President De Brosses* gives, from the miscellaneous tracts of
_Nicolas Struyck_, printed at Amsterdam, 1753, the following account of
another, and last voyage of the Dutch, for the discovery of the North
Coast.
[* _Hist. des Nav. aux Terres Aust_. Tome I. page 439.]
"March 1, 1705, three Dutch vessels were sent from _Timor_, with order to
explore the north coast of _New Holland_, better than it had before been
done. They carefully examined the coasts, sand banks, and reefs. In their
route to it, they did not meet with any land, but only some rocks above
water, in 11° 52' south latitude:" (probably the south part of the great
_Sahul Bank_; which, according to captain Peter Heywood, who saw it in
180l, lies in 11° 40'.) "They saw the west coast of New Holland 4° to the
eastward of the east point of Timor. From thence they continued their
route towards the north; and passed a point, off which lies a bank of
sand above water, in length _more than five German miles_ of fifteen to a
degree. After which, they made sail to the east, along the coast of New
Holland; observing every thing with care, until they came to a gulph, the
head of which they did not quite reach. I (Struyck) have seen a chart
made of these parts."
What is here called the _West_, must have been the North-west Coast;
which the vessels appear to have made somewhat to the south of the
western _Cape Van Diemen_. The point which they passed, was probably this
same Cape itself; and in a chart, published by Mr. Dalrymple, Aug. 27,
1783, from a Dutch manuscript (possibly a copy of that which Struyck had
seen), a shoal, of _thirty geographic miles_ in length, is marked as
running off, from it; but incorrectly, according to Mr. Mc. Cluer. The
gulph here mentioned, was probably a deep bay in Arnhem's Land; for had
it been the Gulph of Carpentaria, some particular mention of the great
change in the direction of the coast, would, doubtless, have been made.
From this imperfect account of the voyage of these three vessels, very
little satisfactory information is obtained; and this, with some few
exceptions, is the case with all the accounts of the early Dutch
discoveries; and has usually been attributed to the monopolizing spirit
of their East-India Company, which induced it to keep secret, or to
destroy, the journals.
COOK. 1770.
The north coast of Terra Australis does not appear to have been seen by
any succeeding navigator, until the year 1770; when our celebrated
captain JAMES COOK passed through _Endeavour's Strait_, between Cape York
and the Prince of Wales' Islands; and besides clearing up the doubt
which, till then, existed, of the actual separation of Terra Australis
from New Guinea, his more accurate observations enabled geographers to
assign something like a true place to the former discoveries of the
Dutch, in these parts. Captain Cook did not land upon the main; but, at
_Possession Island_, he saw ten natives: "Nine of them were armed with
such lances as we had been accustomed to see, and the tenth had a _bow_,
and a bundle of _arrows_, which we had never seen in the possession of
the natives of this country before." *
[* _Hawkesworth's Voyages_, Vol. III. page 211.]
Mc. CLUER. 1791.
At the end of the year 1791, lieutenant JOHN Mc. CLUER of the Bombay
marine, in returning from the examination of the west side of New Guinea,
made the Land of _Arnhem_, in longitude 135¼°, east of Greenwich. He then
sailed westward, along the shore, to 129° 55'; when the coast was found
to take a southern direction. The point of turning is placed in 11° 15'
south latitude; and is, doubtless, the Cape Van Diemen of the old charts,
and the west extremity of the north coast of Terra Australis.
It does not appear that any other account has been given of this
navigation, than the chart published by Mr. Dalrymple, in 1792. According
to it, though lieutenant Mc. Cluer constantly had soundings, in from 7 to
40 fathoms; yet he was generally at such a distance from the land, that
it was not often seen; and, consequently, he was unable to identify the
particular points. No landing seems to have been effected upon the main;
but some service was rendered to navigation, by ascertaining the
positions of several small islands, shoals, and projecting parts of the
coast; and in conferring a certain degree of authenticity upon the
discoveries of the early Dutch navigators.
Lieutenant Mc. Cluer is the last person, who can strictly be said to have
added to our knowledge of the north coast of Terra Australis, previously
to the time in which the voyage of the Investigator was planned; but
several navigators had followed captain Cook through Torres' Strait, and
by considerably different routes: these it will be proper to notice; as
their discoveries are intimately connected with the present subject.
BLIGH. 1789.
After the mutineers of the _Bounty_ had forced their commander,
lieutenant (now rear-admiral) WILLIAM BLIGH, to embark in the _launch_,
near the island _Tofoa_; he steered for Coepang, a Dutch settlement, at
the south-west end of _Timor_. In the way, he made the east coast of New
South Wales, in about 12½° of South latitude; and, sailing northward,
passed round Cape York and the Prince of Wales' Islands.
It was not to be supposed, that captain Bligh, under the circumstances of
extreme distress, of fatigue, and difficulty of every kind, could do much
for navigation and geography; yet, he took views and made such
observations and notes, as enabled him to construct a chart of his track,
and of the lands and reefs seen from the launch. And as captain Bligh
passed to the _north_ of the Prince of Wales' Islands, whereas captain
Cook had passed to the south, his interesting narrative, with the
accompanying chart, made an useful addition to what little was yet known
of Torres'Strait.*
[* Bligh's "_Voyage to the South Seas in H. M. Ship Bounty_," page
218-221.]
EDWARDS. 1791.
CAPTAIN (now admiral) EDWARD EDWARDS of HIS Majesty's frigate _Pandora_,
on his return from the island Taheity,* made the reefs of Torres' Strait,
on Aug. 25; in about the latitude 10° south, and _two degrees_ of
longitude to the east of Cape York. Steering from thence westward, he
fell in with three islands, rather high, which he named MURRAY'S; lying
in latitude 9° 57' south, and longitude 143° 42' east;** and some canoes,
with two masts, were seen running within side of the reef which lay
between the islands and the ship. This reef was of considerable extent;
and, during the whole of August 26, captain Edwards ran along it to the
southward, without finding any passage through. On the 27th, the search
was continued, without success; but on the 28th, a boat was despatched to
examine an opening in the reef; and the ship stood off and on, waiting
the result. At five in the evening, the boat made a signal for a passage
being found; but fearing to venture through, so near sunset, without more
particular information, captain Edwards called the boat on board. In the
mean time, a current, or tide, set the Pandora upon the reef; and, after
beating there till ten o'clock, she went over it into deep water; and
sunk in 15 fathoms, at daylight of the 29th.
[* Commonly written _Otaheite_; but the 0 is either an article or a
preposition, and forms no part of the name: Bougainville writes it
Taïti.]
[** In Plates I. and XIII. Murray's Islands are laid down according to
their situations afterwards ascertained in the Investigator; and the
reefs, seen by the Pandora, are placed in their relative positions to
those islands.]
A dry sand bank was perceived within the opening, at the distance of four
miles; and thither the boats repaired with the remaining officers and
people; thirty-nine men having lost their lives in this melancholy
disaster. This opening was ascertained to lie in latitude 11° 24' and
longitude 143° 38'; and is represented as very practicable for ships.
Not being able to save any thing from the wreck, captain Edwards, almost
destitute of provisions and water, set sail on Aug. 30, with his squadron
of four boats; and steered for the north-east part of Terra Australis. No
reefs, or other dangers, appear to have been encountered in the way to
the coast; but in the course northward, along it, some islands and reefs
were seen. From one part of the coast, two canoes with three black men in
each, paddled hard after the boats; but though they waved and made many
signs, it was not thought prudent to wait for them. At one of the York
Isles, the natives, for some trifling presents, filled a keg of water for
captain Edwards; but refused to bring down any more; and, soon afterward,
they let fly a shower of arrows amongst the unfortunate sufferers.
Happily no person was wounded; and the aggressors were put to flight, by
a volley of musketry.
At the Prince of Wales' Islands, good water was found; and much
alleviated the distress of captain Edwards and his people. They heard
here the howling of wolves, (probably of wild dogs,) and "discovered a
_morai_, or rather heap of bones. There were amongst them two human
skulls, the bones of some large animals, and some turtle bones. They were
heaped together in the form of a grave; and a long paddle, supported at
each end by a bifurcated branch of a tree, was laid horizontally along
it. Near to this, there were marks of a fire having been recently made;
and the ground about was much footed and worn." *
[* See "_A Voyage round the World in H. M. frigate Pandora_," by George
Hamilton, Surgeon; page 123, _et seq._]
A few small oysters, a harsh austere fruit, resembling a plum, and a
small berry of a similar taste to the plum, were all that could be found
for food.
"There is a large sound formed here, to which," says Mr. Hamilton, "we
gave the name of _Sandwich's Sound_; and commodious anchorage for
shipping in the bay, to which we gave the name of _Woy's Bay_, in which
there is from five to seven fathoms all round. Near the centre of the
sound is a small, dark-coloured, rocky island."
Sept. 2. In the afternoon, captain Edwards passed out to the northward,
with his little squadron, from amongst the Prince of Wales' Islands; and
the same evening, by steering westward, cleared all the islands and reefs
of Torres' Strait: on the 14th he reached Timor.
The track and discoveries of the Pandora, in Plate XIII. are taken from a
chart published in 1798, by Mr. Dalrymple, upon the authority of one
constructed by lieutenant Hayward; but it does not contain the track of
the boats after the loss of the Pandora. This chart, and the account
given by Mr. Hamilton, which, though more than sufficiently explicit upon
some points, is very defective in what concerns navigation and geography;
are all that appears to have been published of this voyage.
BLIGH and PORTLOCK. 1792.
Neither the great extent of the reefs, to the eastward of Cape York, nor
the loss of the Pandora, were known in 1792; when captain WILLIAm BLIGH
came a second time to Torres' Strait, with His Majesty's ship
_Providence_, and the brig _Assistant_ commanded by lieutenant (now
captain) NATHANIEL PORTLOCK. The objects of his mission were, to
transport the bread-fruit plant from Taheity to the West Indies; and, in
his way, to explore a new passage through the Strait; in both of which he
was successful.
A chart of the discoveries made in Torres' Strait, was lodged, by captain
Bligh, in the Admiralty Office; and is incorporated with other
authorities, in Plate XIII. of the accompanying Atlas. No account of this
voyage having yet been published; it is conceived, that the following
brief relation of the passage through the strait, will be acceptable to
the nautical reader; and, having had the honour to serve in the
expedition, I am enabled to give it from my own journal, with the
sanction of captain Bligh.
Aug. 31. Latitude at noon 9° 25' south; longitude from fifteen sets of
distances of the sun west, and star east, of the moon, taken on the 24th,
25th, and 26th, preceding, 145° 22' and by time keepers, 145° 23' east.
No land seen since passing _Louisiade_ the preceding day; but many birds
and fish, and much rock weed. At dusk, having steered W. ¼ S. 27 miles,
breakers were seen ahead, at the distance of two miles; and the vessels
hauled to the wind: no bottom at 94 fathoms.
Sept. 1. They bore away W. by S.; but hauled up gradually to South, on
account of the breakers; and not being able to weather them, tacked to
the N. E. At noon, latitude 9° 37' south, longitude by time keepers, 144°
59' east:* part of the reef, which was named after captain Portlock, seen
in the N. N. W. from the mast head. At four o'clock, the vessels edged
away round the north end of _Portlock's Reef_, which, at dusk, bore
South, about two leagues; and the wind was then hauled for the night.
[* In Plate XIII. some small alterations are made in the longitudes given
by captain Bligh's time keepers, to make them correspond with the
corrected longitudes of the Investigator and Cumberland.]
Sept. 2. The breakers bore South, four or five miles; and captain Bligh
steered westward: the Assistant leading. At noon, the latitude being 9°
26', longitude, by time keepers, 144° 23', other breakers were seen
ahead, and the vessels hauled the wind to the southward; but finding
another reef in that direction, with a dry bank upon it, they tacked to
the N. E. at half past one; and got ground, for the first time, in 64
fathoms, coral bottom. During the following night, they stood off and on,
constantly getting soundings.
No breakers were in sight in the morning of Sept. 3. At seven, a boat was
sent ahead; and the vessels bore away after her to the N. W., in order to
try the New-Guinea side of the Strait. At noon, their course was
interrupted by a reef, which was named _Bonds Reef_, extending from W. N.
W. to North, and distant four or five miles: observed latitude 9° 6',
longitude 144° 13'. The north side of the Strait being judged
impracticable, the wind was again hauled to the southward; and, at dusk,
the vessels anchored in 37 fathoms, fine grey sand; five or six miles
north of a reef, upon which was a dry bank, called _Anchor Key_. An
island of considerable height, bearing S. W. by W. ten leagues, was then
seen from the mast head: Captain Bligh gave it the name of _Darnley's
Island_; and to the space between Portlock's and Bond's Reefs, by which
the vessels had entered the Strait, that of _Bligh's Entrance_.
Sept. 4. A boat was sent to the S. S. W., and the vessels followed. Other
high lands (_Murray's Isles_) were seen to the southward; and a reef with
a sand bank on it, to the west. At noon, the latitude was 9° 32' south,
and longitude 143° 59' east: Darnley's Island bore S. 74° to 82° W., four
leagues; and the largest of Murray's Isles, S. 13° to 21° E.: the western
reef was about three miles distant, but nothing was visible ahead in the
S. by W. At four o'clock, the vessels anchored in 21 fathoms, sandy
bottom; with Darnley's Island bearing N. 60° W., three leagues. Betwixt a
sand-bank, called _Canoe Key_, which bore S. 60° W., two leagues, and a
reef lying in the W. by S., there appeared to be a passage, which the
boats were sent to examine.
On the 5th, boats were again sent to sound the passage. Several large
sailing canoes were seen; and the cutter making the signal for
assistance, the pinnace was sent to her, well manned and armed. On the
return of the boats in the afternoon, it appeared, that, of four canoes
which used their efforts to get up to the cutter, one succeeded. There
were in it fifteen Indians, black, and quite naked; and they made signs
which were interpreted to be amicable. These signs the officer imitated;
but not thinking it prudent to go so near as to take a green cocoa-nut,
which was held up to him, he continued rowing for the ship. A man, who
was sitting upon the shed erected in the centre of the canoe, then said
something to those below; and immediately they began to string their
bows. Two of them had already fitted arrows, when the officer judged it
necessary to fire in his own defence. Six muskets were discharged; and
the Indians fell flat into the bottom of the canoe, all except the man on
the shed: the seventh musket was fired at him, and he fell also. During
this time, the canoe dropped astern; and the three others having joined
her, they all gave chase to the cutter, trying to cut her off from the
ship; in which they would probably have succeeded, had not the pinnace
arrived, at that juncture, to her assistance. The Indians then hoisted
their sails, and steered for Darnley's Island.
No boats could have been manoeuvred better, in working to windward, than
were these long canoes by the naked savages. Had the four been able to
reach the cutter, it is difficult to say, whether the superiority of our
arms would have been equal to the great difference of numbers;
considering the ferocity of these people, and the skill with which they
seemed to manage their weapons.
September 6. Two boats were sent ahead; and the vessels followed them,
between Canoe Key and the reef lying from it half a mile to the north.
After running twelve miles beyond this narrow pass, they anchored in 13
fathoms; the latitude being 9° 37', and longitude 143° 41'. In the
afternoon, they proceeded five miles further, to the N. N. W.; and
Darnley's Island then bore S. 74° to 55° E. two leagues: except on the
north side, this island appeared to be surrounded with reefs and sand
banks to a considerable distance. In sailing from Canoe Key, the vessels
had left, on the larbord hand, a long chain of reefs and banks; at the
north-west end of which, were three low, woody islands: the nearest of
these, bearing S. 41° W. two or three miles from the anchorage, was named
_Nepean Island_. The view to the northward, from W. by N. to E. by S.,
was free from dangers; but in every other direction there were reefs,
islands, or dry banks.
This day, several canoes from Darnley's Island came off to both vessels.
On approaching, the Indians clapped upon their heads, and exclaimed
_Whou! Whou! Whoo!_ repeatedly, with much vehemence; at the same time,
they held out arrows and other weapons, and asked for _toore-tooree_! by
which they meant iron.* After much difficulty, they were persuaded to
come along-side; and two men ventured into the ship. They had bushy
hair--were rather stout made--and nearly answered the description given
of the natives of New Guinea.** The cartilage, between the nostrils, was
cut away in both these people; and the lobes of their ears slit, and
stretched to a great length, as had before been observed in a native of
the _Fejee Islands_. They had no kind of clothing; but wore necklaces of
cowrie shells, fastened to a braid of fibres; and some of their
companions had pearl-oyster shells hung round their necks. In speaking to
each other, their words seemed to be distinctly pronounced.
[* The name for iron at Taheity, is _eure-euree_, or _ooree_, orj,
according to Bougainville, _aouri_.]
[** See _a Voyage to New Guinea_, by Captain Thomas Forrest.]
Their arms were bows, arrows, and clubs, which they bartered for every
kind of iron work with eagerness; but appeared to set little value on any
thing else. The bows are made of split bamboo; and so strong, that no man
in the ship could bend one of them. The string is a broad slip of cane,
fixed to one end of the bow; and fitted with a noose, to go over the
other end, when strung. The arrow is a cane of about four feet long, into
which a pointed piece of the hard, heavy, _casuarina_ wood, is firmly and
neatly fitted; and some of them were barbed. Their clubs are made of the
_casuarina_, and are powerful weapons. The hand part is indented, and has
a small knob, by which the firmness of the grasp is much assisted; and
the heavy end is usually carved with some device: One had the form of a
parrot's head, with a ruff round the neck; and was not ill done.
Their canoes are about fifty feet in length, and appear to have been
hollowed out of a single tree; but the pieces which form the gunwales,
are planks sewed on with the fibres of the cocoa nut, and secured with
pegs. These vessels are low, forward, but rise abaft; and, being narrow,
are fitted with an outrigger on each side, to keep them steady. A raft,
of greater breadth than the canoe, extends over about half the length;
and upon this is fixed a shed or hut, thatched with palm leaves. These
people, in short, appeared to be dextrous sailors and formidable
warriors; and to be as much at ease in the water, as in their canoes.
Sept. 7. The boats having found deep water round the north end of the
three low islands, the vessels followed them; but anchored again, soon
after noon, in latitude 9° 31', and longitude 143° 31'; being sheltered
by the two western islands, named _Stephens'_ and _Campbell's_, and the
reefs which surround them. There were then no less than eight islands in
sight, at different distances; though none further to the westward than
W. S. W. All these, except Darnley's Island, first seen, were small, low,
and sandy; but generally well covered with wood in the central parts.
On the 8th, the vessels steered westward, with the usual precautions. No
land, or other obstruction, had been seen in that quarter; but, at ten
o'clock, they were forced to haul the wind to the southward, their course
being impeded by reefs; upon one of which, was _Pearce's_ sandy _Key_. At
noon, they had anchored in 15 fathoms, under the lee of _Dalrymple's
Island_, the westernmost before seen; but two other islands were then
visible in the S. by W.; and reefs extended from N.4°, to S. 55° W., at
the distance of three or four miles. The latitude here was 9° 37'; and
longitude, from six sets of distances of the sun and moon, 143° 31'; but,
by the time-keepers, 143° 15' east.
Several canoes were lying upon the shore of Dalrymple's Island; but no
natives could he distinguished from the ships. When the boats returned,
however, from sounding, in the afternoon, they came out upon the beach;
waving green branches and clapping upon their heads, in token of
friendship. Boats were afterwards sent to them, and were amicably
received; the natives running into the water to meet them, and some
getting into one of the boats. They eagerly asked for _toore-tooree_; and
gave in exchange some ornaments of shells, and a kind of plum somewhat
resembling a _jambo_. When the boats pushed off from the shore, the
natives followed into the water, and appeared anxious to detain them; but
offered no violence. A moderately-sized dog, of a brown, chestnut colour,
was observed amongst the party.
Sept. 9. The vessels steered after the boats, between the cluster of
islands to the southward, and an extensive reef to the west; with
soundings from 15 to 10 fathoms. At noon, the latitude was 9° 48',
longitude by timekeepers 143° 6'; and two other islands came in sight to
the westward. Before two o'clock, an extensive reef, partly dry, to which
the name of _Dungeness_ was given, made it necessary to heave to, until
the boats had time to sound; after which, captain Bligh bore away along
the north side of the reef, and anchored a mile from it, in 17 fathoms,
hard bottom. In this situation, _Dungeness Island_, which is low and very
woody, bore N. 64° to 87° W. three miles; and a small sandy isle, named
_Warriours Island_, N. 6° to 1° W. four miles: this last appeared to
stand upon the great western reef, and was surrounded with dry sands.
Besides these, there were other low isles, called the _Six Sisters_, in
sight, to the south-east; and a long, flat island, bearing S. 33° to 46°
W. over the dry Dungeness Reef; in the west, also, there were islands
visible, at a greater distance, and much higher, than the others. The
Strait, instead of becoming clearer, seemed to be more and more
embarrassed with dangers, as the vessels proceeded westward. The latitude
of this anchorage was 9° 50½' south, and the longitude 142° 55' east.
Sept. 10. The boats sounded the channel to the north-west, between
Dungeness and Warriours Islands; and finding sufficient water, the
vessels got under way, at noon, to follow them. There were many natives
collected upon the shore of Dungeness Island, and several canoes from
Warriours Island were about the brig. Presently, captain Portlock made
the signal for assistance; and there was a discharge of musketry and some
guns, from his vessel and from the boats. Canoes were also coming towards
the Providence; and when a musket was fired at the headmost, the natives
set up a great shout, and paddled forward in a body; nor was musketry
sufficient to make them desist. The second great gun, loaded with round
and grape, was directed at the foremost of eight canoes, full of men; and
the round shot, after raking the whole length, struck the high stem. The
Indians leaped out, and swam towards their companions; plunging
constantly, to avoid the musket balls which showered thickly about them.
The squadron then made off, as fast as the people could paddle without
showing themselves; but afterwards rallied at a greater distance, until a
shot, which passed over their heads, made them disperse, and give up all
idea of any further attack.
In passing the deserted canoe, one native was observed still sitting in
it. The other canoes afterwards returned to him; and, with glasses,
signals were perceived to be made by the Indians, to their friends on
Dungeness Island, expressive, as was thought, of grief and consternation.
No arrows fell on board the Providence; but three men were wounded in the
Assistant, and one of them afterwards died: The depth to which the arrows
penetrated into the decks and sides of the brig, was represented to be
truly astonishing.
The vessels passed between Dungeness and Warriours Islands, with from 19
to 13 fathoms; and anchored, at four o'clock, under the lee of Dungeness
Island and Reef. The passage to the westward then appeared clearer; three
high islands, bearing from S. 60° W. three leagues, to N. 76° W. five
leagues, forming the sole visible obstructions.
Sept. 11. Captain Bligh proceeded on his course to the W. N. W., and
passed two islands, to which the descriptive names of _Turtle-backed
Island_ and the _Cap_ were given; and, soon after noon, the vessels
anchored in 7 fathoms, soft bottom. There was a dry sand bearing N. 63°
W. two or three miles; between which, and the third high island, called
_The Brothers_, bearing S. 55° to 69° W. three miles, it was judged
necessary for the boats to sound, before proceeding further. This
anchorage was in latitude 9° 43', and longitude 142° 40'; and, besides
the islands already mentioned, there was in sight a mountainous island,
to which the name of _Banks_ was given, bearing S. 43° W., twelve or
thirteen leagues; also _Burke's Island_, S. 13° W. eight or ten leagues;
and _Mount Cornwallis_, on another island, N. 29° W. six or eight
leagues; and from behind this last, to N. 7° W., there extended a level
land, which was supposed to be a part of the coast of NEW GUINEA.
Sept. 12. The vessels followed the boats to the westward; but were
interrupted by reefs, and obliged to anchor again before noon. The water
had shoaled gradually, and there was then only 6 fathoms: the bottom a
coarse, coral sand. Two other islands were then in sight: a low one,
named _Turn-again Island_, bore N. 53° W. about four leagues; and
_Jervis' Island_, which is rather high, S. 48° W. nine leagues. A reef,
with a dry sand upon it, extended from S. 7° E. to 62° W. four or five
miles; another was distant three miles to the west; and a third bore N.
18° W. five miles. The latitude of the anchorage was 9° 41' south, and
longitude 142° 24' east.
A fresh gale from south-east did not allow the Providence and Assistant
to proceed onward for three days. In the mean time, the passage between
the reefs to the N. W., was sounded by the boats; and found to contain
about 5 fathoms, regularly, upon hard ground. They were also sent to
examine the passage round the southern reefs; and this being deeper, with
a superior bottom, it was chosen as the preferable route.
Sept. 16. The vessels passed to windward of the southern reef; and
steered south-westward, as it trended, in from 7 to 5 fathoms water,
until half past noon; when they anchored in latitude 10° 3', and
longitude, by time-keeper, 142° 14'. The sole direction in which the eye
could range without being obstructed, was that whence the vessels had
come; every where else the view was arrested by rocks, banks, and
islands. The most extensive of these, was Banks' Island, extending from
S. 14° E. to 62° W., two or three leagues; with a high hill upon it named
_Mount Augustus_, which bore S. 4° E:* Another large island, named
_Mulgrave's_, extended from behind the last to a cluster of rocks, whose
extreme bore W. 5° N. The nearest land, bearing S. 24° E., one mile and a
half, was the north-westernmost of three small isles; and to this, the
second lieutenant was sent, for the purpose of taking possession of all
the islands seen in the Strait, for HIS BRITANNIC MAJESTY GEORGE III.,
with the ceremonies used on such occasions: the name bestowed upon the
whole was CLARENCE'S ARCHIPELAGO.
[* This mountain, in latitude 10° 12' south, longitude 142° 13' east, was
seen by captain Bligh from the Bounty's launch, and marked in his chart,
(_Voyage, etc._ p. 220.) It appears to be the same island indistinctly
laid down by captain Cook, in latitude 10° 10', longitude 141° 14'; and
is, also, one of those, to which the term _Hoge Landt_ is applied in
Thevenot's chart of 1663.]
_North Possession Island_ was found to be little else than a mass of
rocks surrounded by a reef; but it was covered with a variety of trees
and shrubs. Amongst them was a cluster of cocoa-nut trees, bearing a
small, but delicious, fruit; and the tree bearing a plum, such as had
been seen at Dalrymple's Island. Besides these, the botanists found the
_peeha_ and _nono_ of Taheity; and two new plants, of the size of the
common mulberry. One, of the class _polyadelphia_, bears a scarlet,
bell-shaped flower, large as the China rose; the other was a species of
_erythrina_, bearing clusters of butterfly-shaped flowers, of a light
yellow, tinged with purple: both were entirely destitute of leaves, and
their woods remarkably brittle.
There did not appear to be any fixed inhabitants upon Possession Island;
but from a fire which had been recently extinguished, and the shells and
bones of turtle scattered around, it was supposed to have been visited
not many days before. The bushes were full of small, green ants; which
proved exceedingly troublesome to those who had sufficient hardihood to
penetrate their retreats. Another, and larger species of ant, was black;
and made its nest by bending and fixing together the leaves, in a round
form, so as to be impenetrable to the wet. These, and a small kind of
lizard, were all the animals found upon the island.
Sept. 17. The boats led to the westward, steering for a passage between
Mulgrave's and Jervis' Islands; but seeing it full of rocks and shoals,
the vessels anchored a little within the entrance, in 10 fathoms, coarse
ground; until the boats should sound ahead. The latitude here was 10° 2',
and longitude 142° 03'. The flood tide, from the E. N. E., was found to
set through between the islands, at the rate of four miles an hour; and
the breeze being fresh, and bottom bad, the situation was considered to
be very unsafe.
Whilst the boats were sounding, several Indians in three canoes, were
perceived making towards them; but on a swivel shot being fired over
their heads, they returned to Mulgrave's Island, on the south side of the
passage. On the signal being made for good anchorage further on, the
Assistant led to the W. by S.; but on reaching the boats, the bottom was
found much inferior to what had been imagined; the approach of night,
however, obliged captain Bligh to anchor, soon afterward, in 8 fathoms.
In this situation, the vessels were so closely surrounded with rocks and
reefs, as scarcely to have swinging room; the bottom was rocky; the wind
blowing a fresh gale; and a tide running between four and five knots an
hour. This anxious night was, however, passed without accident; and next
morning, Sept. 18, the route was continued through the passage, between
reefs and rocks, which, in some places, were not three quarters of a mile
asunder: the smallest depth was 4 fathoms.
On clearing this dangerous pass, which captain Bligh named, _Bligh's
Farewell_, he anchored in 6 fathoms, sandy bottom; the wind blowing
strong at S. E. with thick weather. The latitude here was 10° 5', and
longitude 141° 56'. From north nearly, round by the east, to S. 8° E.,
there was a mass of islands, rocks, and reefs, at various distances; but
in the western half of the compass, no danger was visible; and as far as
three miles to the W. N. W., the boats found good soundings in 6 and 7
fathoms.
Sept. 19. The wind moderated; and the vessels steered W. by S. until
noon, with a depth gradually increasing from 6 to 8 fathoms. The latitude
was then 10° 8½' south longitude, by time keeper, 141° 31' east, and no
land was in sight; nor did any thing more obstruct captain Bligh and his
associate, in their route to the island _Timor_.
Thus was accomplished, in nineteen days, the passage from the Pacific, or
Great Ocean, to the Indian Sea; without other misfortune than what arose
from the attack of the natives, and some damage done to the cables and
anchors. Perhaps no space of 3½° in length, presents more dangers than
Torres' Strait; but, with caution and perseverance, the captains Bligh
and Portlock proved them to be surmountable; and within a reasonable
time: how far it may be advisable to follow their track through the
Strait, will appear more fully hereafter.
In the _Voyage to the South Seas in H. M. ship Bounty_, page 220, captain
Bligh says, "I cannot with certainty reconcile the situation of some
parts of the coast (near Cape York) that I have seen, to his (captain
Cook's) survey;" and from the situation of the high islands on the west
side of the Strait, which had been seen from the Bounty's launch, and
were now subjected to the correction of the Providence's time-keepers; he
was confirmed in the opinion, that some material differences existed in
the positions of the lands near Cape York.
BAMPTON and ALT. 1793.
The last passage known to have been made through Torres' Strait,
previously to the sailing of the Investigator, was by Messieurs WILLIAM
BAMPTON and MATTHEW B. ALT, commanders of the ships _Hormuzeer_ and
_Chesterfield_. Their discoveries were made public, in two charts, by Mr.
Dalrymple, in 1798 and 1799; and from them, and captain Bampton's
manuscript journal, the south coast of New Guinea, and most of the reefs
and islands near it, are laid down in Plate XIII.; after having been
adjusted to the observations of captain Bligh, and to those subsequently
made by me in the Investigator and Cumberland. The journal was obtained
through the kindness of Mr. Arrowsmith; and, though no courses and
distances be given, and the differences from the charts be sometimes
considerable, it is yet so interesting in many points, that I have judged
the following abridgement would be acceptable, as well to the general, as
to the nautical, reader.
The Hormuzeer and Chesterfield sailed together from Norfolk Island; with
the intention of passing through Torres' Strait, by a route which the
commanders did not know to have been before attempted. June 20, 1793, in
the evening, being in latitude 10° 24' south, and longitude 144° 14' east
(by captain Bampton's chart), a dry reef was seen extending from W. ½ S.
to N. W. by W., distant four or five miles, and breakers from the mast
head at N. by E. ½ E. An island (Murray's), which appeared to be large
and woody, was also seen, and bore N. W. ½ W. The ships got ground in 60
fathoms, and hauled the wind to the eastward, till midnight; when, having
no bottom at 70 fathoms, they lay to, till morning.
June 21. The Hormuzeer's long boat was sent ahead; and, at ten o'clock,
the ships bore away northward. At noon, the latitude was 9° 30'. The
course was altered, at three, to the north-west; and at dusk, they hove
to, for the night: soundings from 70 to 56 fathoms. The same course being
resumed on the 22nd, the latitude, at noon, was 8° 48'; and the depth 30
fathoms, on a bottom of sand, mud, and shells. From noon to five p.m.,
when they anchored, the ships appear to have steered W. by S. The land
had been seen at one o'clock; and at two, the water had shoaled suddenly,
from 30 to 10 fathoms, and afterwards diminished to 5, which continued to
the place of anchorage. The land was part of the coast of NEW GUINEA; and
the extremes were set at W. by N. ½ N. and N. W. ½ N., six or seven
leagues, (in the chart, miles.) The flood tide here, set two miles per
hour, towards the land; and the rise, by the lead line, was nine feet.
June 23. The ships got under way with the weather, or ebb, tide, a little
before noon: latitude 8° 52'. At four o'clock, the wind blew strong at
south-east, with thick weather, and they anchored in 9 fathoms, blue mud;
having made a course of E. N. E. nearly parallel to the coast. They
remained here till the next afternoon; when the Hormuzeer having parted
her cable, both ships stood to the north-eastward, along the land, until
midnight; at which time they wore to the south-west, in 30 fathoms. At
daylight of the 25th, the depth had decreased to 16 fathoms; and they
stretched north-eastward again, with little variation in the soundings.
The latitude, at noon, was 8° 10'; and the ships continued their course
upon a wind, keeping as much to the east as possible; and the soundings
having increased to 30 fathoms, at dusk, they hove to; but stretched off,
at midnight, on coming into 10 fathoms. In the morning of June 26, they
were standing to the eastward; but the wind becoming light at nine
o'clock, Mr. Bampton anchored in 9 fathoms, on a muddy bottom, in
latitude 7° 55' south. The coast of New Guinea was then seen to extend
from N. N. W. ½ W. to E. N. E.; and the south end of a reef, running off
from the western extreme, bore W. by S. ½ S., two leagues.
The land here forms a large, unsheltered bay; and an opening nearly at
the head, bearing N. ½ E., appeared like the entrance of a considerable
river; but an officer, who was sent in a boat to sound, saw breakers
stretching across. The soundings were regular, from 9 to 6 fathoms,
within a mile or two of the shore; when there was only twelve feet; and
the surf which rolled in, made it impossible to land. The country round
the bay is described as level and open, and of an agreeable aspect.
On the return of the boat the ships weighed, and stretched southward
until June 27, at noon. The latitude was then 9° 1'; and a sand bank was
seen from the mast head, bearing S. W. ½ W. They then wore to the
north-eastward; and continued upon that course until the 28th, at dusk;
when the land of New Guinea being in sight as far as E. by N., the same,
apparently, which had been set from the anchorage on the 26th, they
stretched off till two in the morning and then in again, towards the
land.
Captain Bampton had followed the coast of New Guinea thus far, in the
hope of finding a passage to the northward, between it and Louisiade; but
the trending of the land so far to the east, and the difficulty of
weathering it, from the current being adverse, obliged him to give up
that hope. A consultation was then held; and a determination made to
attempt the passage through the middle of Torres' Strait.
At the time the ships hauled their wind to the southward, the latitude
was 8° 3'; the longitude, from three distances of the sun and moon, 145°
23'; and the depth of water 40 fathoms, on a muddy bottom. They had no
soundings from that time to July 1, at one a.m.; when there was 35
fathoms. At daylight, land, which was the _Darnley's Island_ of captain
Bligh, bore S. W. by S. seven or eight leagues; a dry sand was seen in
the W. N. W., (probably W. S. W.); and a reef, which appears to have been
that of Anchor Key, was six or seven miles distant in the S. E. At four
in the afternoon, when Darnley's Island bore W. by N. ½ N. five leagues,
and Murray's Island S. E. ½ E. (probably S. S. E. ½ E.) the ships
anchored in 22 fathoms, marly bottom; and the boats were sent towards the
first Island to sound, and see if it were inhabited. The latitude
observed at this anchorage, was 9° 40' south, and longitude from three
distances of the sun and moon 142° 58' 30" east.
July 2. The boats returned. Between the ships and the island, they had
passed over five different reefs, separated by narrow channels of 11 to
14 fathoms deep. The natives of the island came down in considerable
numbers; and exchanged some bows and arrows, for knives and other
articles. They were stout men; and somewhat above the common size of
Europeans. Except in colour, which was not of so deep a cast, they bore
much resemblance to the natives of Port Jackson; and had scars raised
upon their bodies in the same manner. The men were entirely naked; but
the women, who kept at a distance and appeared small in size, wore an
apron of leaves, reaching down, to the knee. Many cocoa-nut trees were
seen in the lower parts of the island.
When the boats returned, they were followed by four canoes. One of them
went along-side of the Chesterfield; and an Indian ventured on board, on
a sailor going into the canoe, as a hostage for him. Most of these people
had their ears perforated. The hair was generally cut short; but some few
had it flowing loose. It is naturally black; but from being rubbed with
something, it had a reddish, or burnt appearance. These Indians, so far
as they could he understood, represented their island to abound in
refreshments; and it was, therefore, determined to send another boat to
make further examination.
July 3. Mr. Shaw, chief mate of the Chesterfield, Mr. Carter, and captain
Hill of the New-South-Wales corps, who was a passenger, went away armed,
with five seamen in a whale boat; and were expected to return on the
following day; but the 4th, 5th, and 6th, passed, without any tidings of
them; although many signal guns had been fired.
On the 7th, two boats, manned and armed, under the command of Mr. Dell,
chief mate of the Hormuzeer, were sent in search of the whale boat. On
reaching the island, Mr. Dell heard conch shells sounding in different
parts; and saw eighty or ninety armed natives upon the shore. To the
inquiries, by signs, after the missing boat, they answered that she was
gone to the westward; but none of them would venture near; nor did they
pay attention to a white handkerchief which was held up, and had before
been considered a signal of peace.
As the boats proceeded in their search, round the island, the natives
followed along the shore, with increasing numbers. One man, who was
rubbed with something blue, and appeared to be a chief, had a small axe
in his hand; which was known, from the red helve, to have belonged to Mr.
Shaw. On reaching the bay in the north-west side of the island, Mr. Dell
remarked that the natives disappeared; all except about thirty, who were
very anxious in persuading him to land. They brought down women; and made
signs, that the boat and people whom he sought, were a little way up in
the island. He, however, rowed onward; when the beach was immediately
crowded with people, who had been lying in ambush, expecting him to land.
After having gone entirely round the island, and seen nothing of the
object of his research, Mr. Dell returned to the first cove; where a
great concourse of natives, armed with bows, arrows, clubs, and lances,
were assembled at the outskirt of the wood. By offering knives and other
things, a few were induced to approach the boat; and the coxswain seized
one of them by the hair and neck, with the intention of his being taken
off to the ships, to give an account of the missing boat and people. A
shower of arrows instantly came out of the wood; and a firing was
commenced, which killed one Indian, and wounded some others. In the mean
time, the coxswain found it impossible to keep the man, from his hair and
body being greased; and the boat's crew was too much occupied to assist
him.
July 8. The two commanders having heard the report of Mr. Dell, proceeded
with the ships, round the northern reefs and sand banks, to the bay on
the north-west side of Darnley's Island, which was named _Treacherous
Bay_. On the 9th, in the afternoon, they anchored with springs on the
cables, in 13 fathoms, sand, mud, and shells; the extremes of the island
bearing E. ½ N. to S. W. by S., and the nearest part distant a quarter of
a mile. A boat was sent on shore; and returned, at sunset, with a few
cocoa nuts; but without having seen any of the inhabitants.
July 10. An armed party of forty-four men landed from the ships, under
the command of Mr. Dell. After hoisting the union jack, and taking
possession of this, and the neighbouring islands and coast of New Guinea,
in the name of His Majesty, they examined the huts, and found the great
coats of captain Hill, Mr. Carter, and Mr. Shaw; with several other
things which had belonged to them, and to the boats' crew; so that no
doubt was entertained of their having been murdered. In the evening, the
party arrived from making the tour of the island; having burnt and
destroyed one-hundred-and-thirty-five huts; sixteen canoes, measuring
from fifty to seventy feet in length; and various plantations of sugar
cane. The natives appeared to have retired to the hills in the centre of
the island; as not one of them could be discovered.
Darnley's Island was judged to be about fifteen miles in circumference.
It is variegated with hills and plains; and the richness of the
vegetation bespoke it to be very fertile; it appeared, however, to be
scantily supplied with fresh water, there being only one small place
where it was found near the shore. The plantations of the natives, which
were extensive and numerous in the plains, contained yams, sweet
potatoes, plantains, and sugar canes, inclosed within neat fences of
bamboo; and cocoa-nut trees were very abundant particularly near the
habitations. The hills, which mostly occupy the middle of the island,
were covered with trees and bushes of a luxuriant growth; and upon
different parts of the shores, the mangrove was produced in great plenty.
The habitations of the Indians were generally placed at the heads of the
small coves; and formed into villages of ten or twelve huts each,
inclosed within a bamboo fence of, at least, twelve feet high. The hut
much resembles a haycock, with a pole driven through it; and may contain
a family of six or eight people. The covering is of long grass, and cocoa
leaves. The entrance is small; and so low, that the inhabitants must
creep in and out; but the inside was was clean and neat; and the pole
that supports the roof, was painted red, apparently with ochre.
In each of the huts, and usually on the right hand side going in, were
suspended two or three human skulls; and several strings of hands, five
or six on a string. These were hung round a wooden image, rudely carved
into the representation of a man, or of some bird; and painted and
decorated in a curious manner: the feathers of the Emu or Cassuary
generally formed one of the ornaments. In one hut, containing much the
greater number of skulls, a kind of gum was found burning before one of
these images. This hut was adjoining to another, of a different form, and
much more capacious than any of the others. The length was thirty feet,
by fifteen in breadth; and the floor was raised six feet from the ground.
The hut was very neatly built of bamboo, supported by long stakes, and
thatched with cocoa leaves and dried grass. It was judged to be the
residence of the chief of the island; and was the sole hut in which there
were no skulls or hands; but the adjoining one had more than a double
proportion.
The corpse of a man, who had been shot, was found disposed of in the
following manner. Six stakes were driven into the ground; about three
feet from each other, and six feet high. A platform of twigs was worked
upon them, at the height of five feet; and upon this, the body was laid,
without covering; but the putrid state of the corpse, did not allow of a
close inspection.
Upon the reefs which surround the island, square places, of about fifty
feet every way, were formed, by piling up stones of two or three feet
high. The tide flows over these; and, on the ebb, the Indians go down and
take out the fish. On all parts of the reefs, there were bamboos set up,
with pendants of dried leaves; but whether they were intended as beacons
for the canoes, or to point out the boundaries of each fishery, could not
be ascertained.
The description of the canoes is nearly the same as that given in the
voyage of Bligh and Portlock; but Mr. Bampton says, "some of them were
ingeniously carved and painted, and had curious figures at each end." The
weapons of these people are bows, arrows, clubs of about four feet long,
and spears and lances of various kinds, made of black., hard, wood. Some
of the lances were jagged, from the sharp point to a foot upward; and
most of them were neatly carved.
The sole quadrupeds seen, were rats, mice, and lizards; which, when the
huts were set on fire, ran from them in great numbers. Land birds were
numerous in all parts of the island; and upon the reefs were many
curlews, large yellow-spotted plover, king's fishers, sand pipers, red
bills, and gulls.
Captain Bampton lays down Darnley's Island, which the natives call
WAMVAX, in latitude 9° 39' 30" south, and longitude 142° 59' 15" east;
but in his chart, the centre is placed in 9° 34' south., and 143° 1'
east. He much regretted that he could not land again, to examine the
interior parts of this fine island; but his long boat having drifted out
of sight, without water, provisions, or compass, it was judged necessary
for the ships to weigh, and look after her.
July 11. The Hormuzeer stood to the northward, with soundings of 15 to 19
fathoms. After three hours run, with a fresh breeze, a reef and sand bank
were seen ahead, and the ship was veered to the south-west. Another reef
and bank were descried, soon afterward, in the west; and, at the same
time, a signal for seeing the long boat was made by the Chesterfield. In
the afternoon, the boat was picked up, and both ships anchored under
Stephens' Island.
An armed party was immediately sent on shore, to obtain intelligence if
possible, of the lost whale boat. The natives were assembled in hostile
array, upon the hills, sounding their conchs; but, after lancing a few
arrows, they fled. Several were wounded by the shots fired in return; but
they succeeded in escaping to a canoe at the back of the island, and
getting off; all except one boy, who was taken unhurt.* In the huts,
which were burnt, several things were found; and amongst them, a sheet of
copper which belonged to the Chesterfield.
[* It does not appear in the journal, when, or where this boy was set on
shore; nor is any further mention made of him.]
July 12. Stephens' Island was traversed all over; and a spike nail, with
the king's broad arrow upon it, was brought on board, and excited many
conjectures as to whence it came.* The plantations, huts, images, skulls,
and hands, were found similar to those of Darnley's Island. Amongst the
trees, there was one resembling an almond, the nuts of which were good.
The cocoa nut grows abundantly; especially in the south-eastern part,
where the trees formed a continued grove. The sole quadruped seen, except
rats, was a pretty animal of the opossum tribe. It was found in a cage;
and had probably been brought, either from New Guinea, or New South
Wales.**
[* It had probably been obtained from the crews of either the Providence
or Assistant; which had anchored under Stephens' Island, nine months
before.]
[** Mr. Bampton's description of this animal is briefly as follows. Size
and shape, of the opossum. Colour, yellowish white with brown spots. End
of the tail, deep red: prehensile. Eyes, reddish brown: red when
irritated. No visible ears. Used its paws in feeding: five nails to each.
Habit, dull and slothful: not savage. Food, maize, boiled rice, meat,
leaves, or any thing offered. Odour, very strong at times, and
disagreeable.]
July 13. A boat was sent to Campbell's Island; but it did not contain
either plantations, cocoa-nut trees, or fixed inhabitants. This, as also
Stephens' and Nepean's Islands, are mostly low and sandy; and surrounded
with extensive reefs, upon which, it was thought, the Indians pass from
one island to the other, at low water.
In the afternoon, the ships proceeded to the westward; but meeting with
many reefs, they hauled more to the north, and discovered _Bristow
Island_, lying close to the coast of New Guinea. Their attempts to find a
passage here, were fruitless; and after incurring much danger, and the
Chesterfield getting aground, they returned to their former anchorage, in
the evening of July 21. The banks, reefs, and lands, seen during these
eight days, will be found marked in Plate XIII.
Two canoes immediately came off from Stephens' Island; and one of the
natives remained on board the Hormuzeer till eight o'clock. He seemed to
be without fear; and when inquiry was made after the lost boat and
people, he pointed to a whale boat, and made signs that such an one had
been at Darnley's Island; and that six of the people were killed.* Many
presents were made to this man; and he was clothed, and sent on shore in
one of the boats.
[* Captain Hill and four of the seamen were murdered by the natives.
Messieurs Shaw and Carter were severely wounded; but with Ascott, the
remaining seaman, they got into the boat, cut the grapnel rope, and
escaped. They were without provisions or compass; and it being impossible
to reach the ships, which lay five leagues to windward, they bore away to
the west, through the Strait; in the hope of reaching Timor. On the tenth
day, they made land; which proved to be _Timor-laoet_. They there
obtained some relief to their great distress; and went on to an island
called by the natives, _Sarrett_; where Mr. Carter died: Messieurs Shaw
and Ascott sailed in a prow, for Banda, in the April following. See
Collins' _Account of the English Colony in New South Wales_. Vol. I. page
464, 465.]
July 22. The ships' crews beginning to feel the want of fresh water,
people were sent on shore to dig a well; and the natives, though they
still appeared shy and suspicious, gave them some assistance. On the
24th, the boats had discovered a passage to the south-westward; and as
the well produced little water, and no provision could be obtained, it
was determined to proceed onward, through the Strait, without further
delay.
They weighed the same afternoon; and anchored, at dusk, in 14 fathoms;
Campbell's Island bearing N. E. by E. to E. by N. ¾ N.; and many other
small isles being in sight to the south-west and southward. Next day, the
25th, they steered S. by W. ½ W., from seven in the morning to six in the
evening; when they anchored in 17 fathoms, having islands in sight nearly
all round: the nearest at the distance of five or six miles. These
islands were small; but inhabitants were seen on the greater number; and
two canoes went off to the Chesterfield.
July 26. The ships proceeded westward, very slowly; the wind being at
south-west. In the morning of the 27th, they were at anchor in 11
fathoms; Dungeness Island bearing W. by N. to N. W. by W. ½ W., about six
miles; and Warriors Island N. N. W. ½ W. eight miles. Mr. Dell had passed
the preceding night upon one of the Six Sisters, which was called _Dove
Island_, bearing from the ship, S. S. E. six miles. A fire on the beach,
with two fish broiling upon it, bespoke the presence of inhabitants; but
on searching the island over, none could be discovered: it was thought
that they had fled to a larger island, it being connected with this by a
reef, which dries at low water. Mr. Dell had a seine with him, and caught
a dozen fine fish; but the object of remaining all night, that of taking
turtle, did not succeed; although large shells of them were found upon
the shore.
Dove Island is about one mile and a half in circumference; and covered
with trees and shrubs, the fragrance of whose flowers perfumed the air.
Amongst other birds, two beautiful doves were shot. The plumage of the
body was green; the head, bill, and legs, red; the tail, and under sides
of the wings, yellow. No huts, plantations, or other signs of fixed
inhabitants were seen; nor was there any fresh water.
On the return of the boat, the vessels weighed; and the wind being at W.
S. W., they worked through. between Dungeness and Warriors Islands, with
the flood tide. They then anchored in 11 fathoms; the first Island
bearing S. S. E. to S ½ W. three leagues, and the second E. by S. ½ S.
July 28. Having a fresh breeze at E. S. E., the long boat was sent ahead,
and the ships followed, to the westward. They passed Turtle-backed
Island, the Cap, and the Brothers, on one side, and Nichols' Key on the
other: the soundings gradually shoaling from 12 to 7 fathoms. Upon the
Cap, Mr. Bampton "saw a volcano burning with great violence," which
induced him to give it the name of _Fire Island_; not knowing that it had
before been named. At noon, the Brothers, with the Cap and Turtle-backed
Island behind, bore S. E. by S. to S. ½ E. four miles; and Mount
Cornwallis N. 16° W.
The water continued to shoal; and at three p.m., the ships anchored in 5
fathoms, sand, shells, and stones; the Brothers bearing E. by S. ¼ S.
five leagues, and Mount Cornwallis N. by E. ¼ E. There were two large
islands in sight in the S. S. W. ¼ W. to S. W. ¼ S., at the distance of
eight or ten leagues; and many nearer reefs in the same direction.
July 29. The long boat was sent to sound in the north-west; and when the
ebb tide slacked, the ships followed: wind at E. S. E. The soundings
increased from 5 to 7 fathoms; and afterwards varied between these
depths, until noon; when the latitude observed was 9° 42' south.* The
Brothers then bore S. 64° E.; Mount Cornwallis N. 38° E; and a long, low
island (Turn-again., of Bligh,) N. 35° to 58° W. At three p.m. the reefs
were so numerous, that the ships were obliged to anchor, until the boats
could sound for a passage: the depth here was 4½ fathoms, on a bottom of
rotten stones and coral.
[* This latitude is from 4' to 6' more _south_ than captain Bligh's
positions; and the same difference occurs in all the observations, where
a comparison can be made.]
July 31. They weighed, and hauled the wind eastward, to pass round
Turn-again Island; bearing away occasionally to avoid small reefs: the
soundings 5½ to 4 fathoms. After passing round, they anchored in 5
fathoms; until the boats should sound between the reefs which appeared on
every side: Turn-again Island then bore S. 56° to 83° W. about two
leagues, Mount Cornwallis N. 56° E., the Brothers S. 50° E.; the latitude
observed was 9° 32', and longitude from four sights of the sun and moon,
140° 58' east. Next afternoon, in proceeding to the north-westward, the
Chesterfield struck upon a bank in eight feet water; but the coral giving
way to the ship, she went over without injury. In the evening, they both
anchored in 4½ fathoms, gravel and shells; Mount Cornwallis bearing E. ¼
S., and a long tract of land from N. W. by N. to N. E., at the distance
of five or six leagues. Turn-again Island bore S. S. E. ¾ E. to S. ½ W.,
four miles; and thither the ships ran on Aug. 3, and anchored in 3¾
fathoms, fine sand, within a quarter of a mile of the shore; the extremes
bearing S. 58° E. to 60° W. The purpose for which they came to this
island, was to procure wood, water, and refreshments; during the time
necessary for the boats to explore a passage through the innumerable
reefs and banks, which occupy this part of the Strait.
Messieurs Bampton and Alt remained here seventeen days; being afraid to
move with the strong south-east winds which blew during the greater part
of the time. Turn-again Island is flat, low, and swampy; and about three
miles in length, by half that space in breadth. (Mr. Bampton's chart
makes it the double of these dimensions; and, generally, the islands in
it exceed the description of the journal in about the same proportion:
the journal seems to be the preferable authority.) The reefs which
surround Turn-again Island, extend a great distance to the east and west;
particularly in the latter direction, where there are many dry sand
banks. The island is mostly over-run with mangroves; and at the top of
the flood, the wood cutters were obliged to work in the water; and were,
at all times, exceedingly annoyed with musketoes. The island is said, in
the journal, to be in 9° 34; south and 140° 55' east; which is 3' to the
south and 1° 24' west of its situation in the chart of captain Bligh.
No other refreshment than small quantities of fish, crabs, and
shell-fish, being procurable here, the ships crews were further reduced
in their short allowance. With respect to fresh water, their situation
was still worse: None could be obtained upon Turn-again Island; and had
not captain Bampton ingeniously contrived a _still_, their state would
have been truly deplorable. He caused a cover, with a hole in the centre,
to be fitted by the carpenter upon a large cooking pot; and over the hole
he funded an inverted tea kettle, with the spout cut off. To the stump of
the spout, was fitted a part of the tube of a speaking trumpet; and this
was lengthened by a gun barrel, which passed through a cask of salt
water, serving as a cooler. From this machine, good fresh water, to the
amount of twenty-five to forty gallons per day, was procured; and
obtained a preference to that contained in the few casks remaining in the
Hormuzeer.
By Aug. 20., when the weather had become more moderate, the boats had
sounded amongst the reefs in all directions; but there appeared to be no
practicable passage out of this labyrinth, except to the north-west. In
that direction the ships proceeded three hours, in from 6 to 3 fathoms.
Next afternoon, they steered westward, with the flood tide; and again
anchored in 3 fathoms, sand and gravel. The coast of New Guinea then
extended from N. by E. ¼ E. to N. W. ¾ N.; and the north-west end of a
long island, to which the name of _Talbot_ was given, bore N. by E. ½ E.
nine or ten miles.
Aug. 22, At day-light they followed the long boat to the westward., in
soundings from 2½ to 4 fathoms. At seven o'clock, the Hormuzeer grounded
in 2 fathoms; upon a bank whence Talbot's Island bore N. N. E. to E. N.
E., eight or ten miles, and where the observed latitude was 9° 27' south.
She remained upon this bank until the morning of the 24th; when Mr.
Bampton got into a channel of 13 fathoms, which had been found by the
boats, and the ship did not appear to have received other damage, than
the loss of the false keel. The _still_ continued to be kept at work, day
and night.
Aug. 27. Messieurs Bampton and Alt proceeded onward in a track which had
been sounded by the boats. At sunset, they came to, in 4 fathoms; the
extremes of New Guinea then bearing N. W. by W. to N. E. by E., three or
four leagues. Some further progress was made next morning; and at noon,
when at anchor in 3¾ fathoms, and in latitude 9° 26½', an island was
discovered bearing S. W. ¾ S. five or six leagues; which received,
eventually, the name of DELIVERANCE ISLAND.
Aug. 29. The Hormuzeer grounded at low water; from which it appeared that
the tide had fallen twelve feet, though then at the neaps. When the ship
floated, they made sail to the westward; and deepened the water to 9 and
12 fathoms. At noon, it had again shoaled to 6; Deliverance Island
bearing S. S. W. ½ W. nine or ten miles, and New Guinea N. W. to N. by E.
½ E. four or five leagues: latitude observed 9° 25' south. After
proceeding a little further westward, they anchored in 5 fathoms.
Aug. 30. The soundings varied as before, between 4 and 10 fathoms: the
bottom, rotten coral intermixed with sand. At noon, when the latitude was
9° 21', Deliverance Island was just in sight from the deck, in the S. E.
by S.; and the extremes of New Guinea bore N. E. by E. to N. W. ½ W., ten
or twelve miles.* In the afternoon, the depth again decreased to 4
fathoms, and obliged them to anchor until morning. On the 31st, the ships
appear to have steered south-westward, leaving on the starbord hand a
very extensive bank, on which the long boat had 2 fathoms water: the
soundings from the Hormuzeer were from 3 to 7 fathoms. At noon, the
latitude was 9° 27', and no land in sight. The soundings then increased
gradually; and at sunset, no bottom could be found at 40 fathoms. A swell
coming from S. S. W. announced an open sea in that direction; and that
the dangers of Torres' Strait were, at length, surmounted.
[* Mr. Bampton's chart and journal are more at variance here than in the
preceding parts of the Strait, and I have found it very difficult to
adjust them; but have attempted it in Plate XIII.]
This passage of the Hormuzeer and Chesterfield in _seventy-two_ days,
with that made in _nineteen_, by the captains Bligh and Portlock,
displayed the extraordinary dangers of the Strait; and appear to have
deterred all other commanders from following them, up to the time of the
Investigator. Their accounts confirm the truth of Torres having passed
through it, by showing the correctness of the sketch contained in his
letter to the King of Spain.
CONCLUSIVE REMARKS.
The sole remaining information, relative to the North Coast of Terra
Australis, was contained in a note, transcribed by Mr. Dalrymple, from a
work of burgomaster WITSEN upon the _Migration of Mankind_. The place of
which the burgomaster speaks, is evidently on the coast of Carpentaria,
near the head of the Gulph; but it is called _New Guinea; and he wrote in
1705_. The note is as follows; but upon whose authority it was given,
does not appear:
"In 16° 10' south, longitude 159° 17'" (east of Teneriffe, or between
142° and 143° east of Greenwich,) "the people swam on board of a Dutch
ship; and when they received a present of a piece of linen, they laid it
upon their head in token of gratitude: Every where thereabout, all the
people are malicious. They use arrows, and bows of such a length, that
one end rests on the ground when shooting. They have also _hazeygaeys_
and _kalawaeys_, and attacked the Dutch; but did not know the execution
of the guns." On summing up the whole of the knowledge which had been
acquired of the North Coast, it will appear, that natural history,
geography, and navigation had still much to learn of this part of the
world; and more particularly, that they required the accomplishment of
the following objects:
1st. _A general survey of TORRES' STRAIT_. The navigation from the
Pacific, or Great Ocean to all parts of India, and to the Cape of Good
Hope, would be greatly facilitated, if a passage through the Strait,
moderately free from danger, could be discovered; since _five or six
weeks_ of the usual route, by the north of New Guinea or the more eastern
islands, would thereby be saved. Notwithstanding the great obstacles
which navigators had encountered in some parts of the Strait, there was
still room to hope, that an examination of the whole, made with care and
perseverance, would bring such a passage to light. A survey of it was,
therefore, an object much to be desired; not only for the merchants and
seamen trading to these parts, but also from the benefits which would
certainly accrue therefrom to general navigation and geography.
2nd. _An examination of the shores of the GULPH OF CARPENTARIA_. The real
form of this gulph remained in as great doubt with geographers, as were
the manner how, and time when it acquired its name.* The east side of the
Gulph had been explored to the latitude of 17°, and many rivers were
there marked and named; but how far the representation given of it by the
Dutch was faithful--what were the productions, and what its
inhabitants--were, in a great measure, uncertain. Or rather it was
certain, that those early navigators did not possess the means of fixing
the positions and forms of lands, with any thing like the accuracy of
modern science; and that they could have known very little of the
productions, or inhabitants. Of the rest of the Gulph no one could say,
with any confidence, upon what authority its form had been given in the
charts; so that conjecture, being at liberty to appropriate the Gulph of
Carpentaria to itself, had made it the entrance to a vast arm of the sea,
dividing Terra Australis into two, or more, islands.
[* I am aware that the president de Brossed says, "This same year also
(1628) CARPENTARIA was thus named by P. Carpenter, who discovered it when
general in the service of the Dutch Company. He returned from India to
Europe, in the month of June 1628, with five ships richly laden." (_Hist.
des Nav. aux Terres Aust_. Tome I. 433). But the president here seems to
give either his own, or the Abbé' Prevost's conjectures, for matters of
fact. We have seen, that the coast called Carpentaria was discovered long
before 1628; and it is, besides, little probable, that Carpenter should
have been making discoveries with five ships richly laden and homeward
bound. This name of Carpentaria does not once appear in Tasman's
Instructions, dated in 1644; but is found in Thevenot's chart of 1663.]
3rd. _A more exact investigation of the bays, shoals, islands, and coasts
of ARNHEM'S, and the northern VAN DIEMEN'S, LANDS_. The information upon
these was attended with uncertainty; first, because the state of
navigation was very low at the time of their discovery; and second, from
want of the details and authorities upon which they had been laid down.
The old charts contained large islands lying off the coast, under the
names of _T' Hoog Landt_ or _Wessel's Eylandt_, and _Crocodils Eylanden_;
but of which little more was known than that, if they existed, they must
lie to the eastward of 135° from Greenwich. Of the R. Spult, and other
large streams represented to intersect the coast, the existence even was
doubtful. That the coast was dangerous, and shores sandy, seemed to be
confirmed by Mr McCluer's chart; and that they were peopled by "divers
cruel, poor, and brutal nations," was certainly not improbable, but it
rested upon very suspicious authority. The Instructions to Tasman. said,
in 1644, "Nova Guinea has been found to be inhabited by cruel, wild,
savages; and as _it is uncertain what sort of people the inhabitants of
the South Lands are_, it may be presumed that they are also wild and
barbarous savages, rather than a civilized people." This uncertainty,
with respect to the natives of Arnhem's and the northern Van Diemen's
Lands, remained, in a great degree, at the end of the eighteenth century.
Thus, whatever could bear the name of _exact_, whether in natural
history, geography, or navigation, was yet to be learned of a country
possessing five hundred leagues of sea-coast; and placed in a climate and
neighbourhood, where the richest productions of both the vegetable and
mineral kingdoms were known to exist. A voyage which should have had no
other view, than the survey of Torres' Strait and the thorough
investigation of the North Coast of Terra Australis, could not have been
accused of wanting an object worthy of national consideration.
PRIOR DISCOVERIES IN TERRA AUSTRALIS.
SECTION II.
WESTERN COASTS.
Preliminary Observations.
Discoveries of Hartog:
Edel:
of the Ship Leeuwin:
the Vianen:
of Pelsert:
Tasman:
Dampier:
Vlaming:
Dampier.
Conclusive Remarks.
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. (ATLAS Pl. I.)
Under the term WESTERN COASTS, is comprehended the space from the western
extremity of the northern _Van Diemen's Land_ to the _North-west Cape_ of
New Holland; and from thence, southward to _Cape Leeuwin_. The first is
usually termed the North-west, and the second the West Coast: Taken
together, they present an extent of shore of between seven and eight
hundred leagues in length; lying in the fine climates comprised between
the 11th and 35th degrees of south latitude.
HARTOG. 1616.
The recital of discoveries in Tasman's instructions speaks of the first
knowledge gained of these coasts in the following terms: "In the years
1616, 1618, 1619, and 1622, the west coast of this _Great unknown_ SOUTH
LAND, from 35° to 22° south latitude, was discovered by outward-bound
ships; and among them by the ship _Endragt_." The recital gives no
further particulars; but from thence, and from a manuscript chart by
_Eessel Gerrits_, 1627,* there seems to be sufficient authority for
attributing the first authenticated discovery of any part of the Western
Coasts to DIRK HARTOG, commander of the ship _Endragt_, outward-bound
from Holland to India. He appears to have first seen the West Coast in
latitude about 26½° south; and to have sailed northward along it, to
about 23°; giving the name LANDT DE ENDRAGT, to the country so
discovered. An important part of his discovery was _Dirk Hartog's Road_
(at the entrance of a sound afterwards called _Shark's Bay_, by Dampier),
lying a little south Of 25°. Upon one of the islands which form the road
there was found, first in 1697, and afterwards in 1801, a plate of tin,
bearing the following inscription.
[* See Dalrymple's _Collection concerning Papua_, note, page 6.]
"Anno 1616, the 25th of October arrived here the ship _Endragt_ of
Amsterdam; the first merchant _Gillis Miebais_ of Luik, _Dirk Hartog_ of
Amsterdam, captain. They sailed from hence for Bantam, the 27th Do." On
the lower part, as far as could be distinguished in 1697, was cut with a
knife, "The under merchant _Jan Stins_; chief mate _Pieter Dookus_ of
Bill. Ao. 1616."
The _Mauritius_, another outward-bound ship, appears to have made some
further discovery upon the West Coast, in July 1618, particularly Of
WILLEM'S RIVER, near the North-west Cape; but no further particulars are
known.
EDEL. 1619.
In Campbell's edition of _Harris' Voyages_ (p. 325), it is said, "The
next year the LAND OF EDEL was found, and received its name from the
discoverer.". The president De Brosses says nearly the same thing (Tome
I. P. 432); whence, combining this with the Dutch recital and the chart
of Eessel Gerritz, it should appear that J. DE EDEL commanded an
outward-bound ship; and, in July 1619, accidentally fell in with that
part of the West Coast to which his name is applied. The extent of Edel's
discovery appears, from Thevenot's chart, to have been from about the
latitude 29°, northward to 26½°, where the Land of Endragt commences; but
in a chart of this coast, by _Van Keulen_, the name is extended southward
to 32° 20', past the island Rottenest, which, according to Thevenot,
should rather have been the discovery of the ship Leeuwin.
The great reef lying off the coast of Edel, called _Houtman's Abrolhos_,
was discovered at the same time; probably by Edel, or by some ship in the
same squadron.
THE LEEUWIN. 1622.
I do not find it any where said who commanded the _Leeuwin_, or Lioness;
but it should appear, that this was also one of the outward-bound ships
which fell in with the West Coast. In Thevenot's chart, Leeuwin's Land
comprehends about ninety leagues of the south-west extremity of New
Holland; and, from the latitude of 35°, extends northward to about 31°;
but in later publications, it has been much restricted in its northern
limit, apparently, upon the authority of Van Keulen.
THE VIANEN. 1628.
The next discovery upon the Western Coasts was that of the ship _Vianen_,
one of the seven which returned to Europe under the command of the
governor-general Carpenter. The Dutch recital speaks of this discovery in
the following terms. The coast was seen "again accidentally in the year
1628, on the north side, in the latitude 21° south, by the ship Vianen,
homeward bound from India; when they coasted two-hundred miles, without
gaining any knowledge of this Great Country; only observing a foul and
barren shore, green fields, and very wild, black, barbarous inhabitants."
This was the part called DE WITT'S LAND; but whether the name were
applied by the captain of the Vianen does not appear in the recital. De
Brosses says, "William de Witt gave his own name to the country which he
saw in 1628, to the north of Remessen's River; and which _Viane_, a Dutch
captain, had, to his misfortune, discovered in the month of January in
the same year; when he was driven upon this coast of De Witt, in 21° of
latitude, and lost all his riches." The confusion that reigns in the
president's account does not render it improbable, that the country might
have received its _name_ in the way he describes, and in the year 1628;
for, in 1644, _De Witt's Land_ is used as a known term for this part of
the North-west Coast.
PELSERT. 1629.
Thus far, the parts of the Western Coasts have been distinguished by
little else than the dates and limits of their discovery; for, in fact,
this is all that has reached us from these early navigators. The
following account is of a different character: it is extracted from the
twenty-first piece in Thevenot's collection; and, in the table of
contents, is said to be translated from the Dutch.
The _Batavia_, commanded by FRANCISCO PELSERT, struck, in the night of
June 4, 1629, upon a reef, "called by our Flemings the _Abrolhos_ or
Rocks of _Frederick Houtman_," lying off the west coast of New Holland.
At daylight, an island was seen about three leagues distant, and two
islets, or rather rocks, somewhat nearer, to which the passengers and
part of the crew were sent. There being no fresh water to be found upon
these islands, Pelsert had a deck laid over one of the boats; and, on
June 8, put to sea, in order to make search upon the opposite main land:
his latitude, at noon, was 28° 13' south.
A short time after quitting the Abrolhos, captain Pelsert got sight of
the coast, which, by estimation, bore N. by W. eight leagues from the
place of shipwreck.* He had 25 to 30 fathoms, and stood off till
midnight, when he again steered for the land; and in the morning of the
9th, it was four leagues off. He ran that day from five to seven leagues,
sometimes to the north, sometimes to the west; the direction of the coast
being N. by W.: it appeared to be rocky--without trees--and about the
same height as the coast of Dover. A small, sandy bay was seen, into
which Pelsert desired to enter; but finding too much surf, and the
weather becoming bad, he was obliged to haul further off.
[* Thevenot says _six miles_, and does not explain what kind of miles
they are; but it is most probable that he literally copies his original,
and that they are Dutch miles of fifteen to a degree. Van Keulen, in
speaking of Houtman's Abrolhos, says, page 19, "This shoal is, as we
believe, 11 or 12 leagues (_8 ä 9 mijlen)_ from the coast."]
July 10. He kept in the same parallel, upon a wind; the weather being
bad, and his boat very leaky. Next day, the wind was at W. S. W., and
more moderate. He then steered north; for the sea was too high to
approach the shore in safety. On the 12th, Pelsert observed the latitude
to be 27°, and steered along the coast with a fair wind at S. E.; but the
shore was too steep to admit of landing; neither could he find any bay or
island to break off the sea. At a distance, the land seemed fertile and
covered with plants. The latitude, on the 13th, was 25° 40', which showed
a current setting to the northward. Here Pelsert found himself a-breast
of an opening, where the coast trends to the north-east (apparently into
Shark's Bay). The course this day was nearly north; the shore consisted
of reddish rock, of an equal height; and there being no island in front,
the waves, which broke high upon it, prevented landing.
June 14. The wind was at east; and at noon, the latitude was observed to
be 24°. The tides (or rather the current) took the boat further to the
north than was desired; for Pelsert then carried but little sail, in the
hope to find a landing place without going further. Perceiving some
smokes at a distance, he rowed towards them; but the shore proved to be
steep, with many rocks, and the sea broke high against it. At length, six
of his people leaped overboard, and with much labour and risk got through
the surf, whilst the boat remained at anchor, in 25 fathoms. The sailors
employed the rest of the day in seeking for water; and on looking about
on every side, they saw four natives creeping towards them on their hands
and feet. One of "our people" having appeared on an eminence, near them,
the natives rose up and took to flight; so that those who were in the
boat could see them distinctly. These men were wild, black, and
altogether naked; not covering even those parts which almost all savages
conceal.
The six sailors, losing all hope of finding water, swam back to the boat,
wounded and bruised by the blows they had received from the waves and
rocks. The anchor was then weighed, and Pelsert continued his course,
under easy sail, along the coast; but keeping without side of the shoals.
The 15th in the morning, they discovered a cape, off which lay a chain of
rocks, running out four miles into the sea; and behind this was another
reef, close to the shore. The water being tolerably still between them,
Pelsert thought to pass through; but the reefs joined round further on,
and obliged him to return. At noon, an opening was seen, where the water
was smooth, and they went into it, but with considerable danger; for the
depth was no more than two feet, and the bottom stony. On landing, the
people dug holes in the sand; but the water which oozed in was salt. At
length, fresh rain water was found in the cavities of the rocks, and
afforded them great relief; for they had, hitherto, been confined to a
pint of water each. They staid on shore that night, and collected full
forty gallons. Ashes and the remains of cray fish were found; which
showed that the natives had been there no long time before.
July 16. They sought to collect more water, but were unsuccessful; and
none could be expected in the sandy, level country behind the coast. This
plain was destitute of both grass and trees, and covered with ant hills
so large, that they might have been taken for the houses of Indians. The
quantity of flies was such, that the people had great difficulty in
keeping them off. Eight savages, with with each a stick (probably a
spear) in his hand, were seen at a distance. They came within musket
shot; but on the Dutch sailors going towards them they took to flight.
Captain Pelsert, being at length convinced of the impossibility of
procuring more water, determined to quit this coast. At noon, he got
withoutside of the reef by a second opening more to the north; for,
having observed the latitude to be 22° 17', his intention was to seek for
the _River of Jacob Remessens_ (near the North-west Cape); but the wind
veering to north-east, he could no longer follow the direction of the
coast. Considering, then, that he was more than four hundred miles from
the place of shipwreck, and that scarcely water enough had been found for
themselves, Pelsert resolved to make the best of his way to Batavia, to
solicit assistance from the governor-general.
In the mean time, some one of the people left upon the islands of the
_Abrolhos_ thought of tasting the water in two holes, which, from its
rising and falling with the tide, was believed to be salt; but, to their
great surprise and joy, it was found good to drink, and never failed them
afterwards.
On Pelsert's return to the Abrolhos in the yacht _Sardam_, he was under
the necessity of executing some atrocious conspirators, and two were set
on shore upon the opposite main land.* Tasman was directed by his
instructions, in 1644, to "inquire at the continent thereabout, after two
Dutchmen; who, having forfeited their lives, were put on shore by the
commodore Francisco Pelsert, if still alive. In such case, you may make
your inquiries of them about the situation of those countries; and if
they entreat you to that purpose, give them passage hither."
[* For an account of the miseries and horrors which took place on the
islands of the Abrolhos during the absence of Pelsert, the English reader
is referred to Vol. I. p. 320 to 325 of _Campbell's_ edition of _Harris'
Voyages_; but the nautical details there given are very incorrect.]
TASMAN. 1644.
It is not from any direct information, that ABEL JANSZ TASMAN is placed
as the next discoverer upon the western coasts of Terra Australis; for,
as has been already observed, no account of his second voyage has ever
been made public, or is any such known to exist. It is, however,
supposed, with great probability of truth, that, after the examination of
the North Coast, he pursued his course westward along the shore to the
North-west Cape, conformably to his instructions; but that he did not go
further southward along the Land of Endragt than to the tropic of
Capricorn, where he quitted his examination, and returned to Batavia.
The chart published by Thevenot, in 1663, gives a form to the Western
Coasts, and joins them to the northern Van Diemen's Land; but it is
evident from Tasman's instructions, that the part between De Witt's Land
and Cape Van Diemen was unknown to the Dutch government at Batavia in
1644. And since there is no account of its having been seen during the
intermediate nineteen years, it may be concluded that the North-west
Coast was first explored by him; and Dampier says (Vol. III. p. 96), that
he had Tasman's chart of it; though none bearing his name can now be
found.*
[* The French editor of the _Voyage de Découvertes aux Terres Australes_,
published in 1807, Vol. I. p. 128, attributes the formation of the
North-west Coast in the common charts to the expedition of the three
Dutch vessels sent from Timor in 1705. But this is a mistake. It is the
chart of Thevenot, his countryman, _published forty-two years previously_
to that expedition, which has been mostly followed by succeeding
geographers.]
The notes of burgomaster Witsen show, that the North-west Coast was
visited by Tasman; and as they give the earliest information of the
inhabitants, and are curious in themselves, they are here transcribed
from Mr. Dalrymple's Papua.
"In lat. 13° 8' S. lon. 146° 18'" (probably about 129½° east of
Greenwich), "the coast is barren. The people are bad and wicked, shooting
at the Dutch with arrows, without provocation, when they were coming on
shore: It is here very populous."
"In 14° 58' S. lon. 138° 59' (about 125° east), the people are savage,
and go naked: none can understand them."
"In HOLLANDIA NOVA,* in 17° 12' S. (lon. 121° or 122° east) _Tasman_
found a naked, black people, with curly hair; malicious and cruel, using
for arms, bows and arrows, hazeygaeys and kalawaeys. They once came to
the number of fifty, double armed, dividing themselves into two parties,
intending to have surprised the Dutch, who had landed twenty-five men;
but the firing of guns frightened them so that they fled. Their prows are
made of the bark of trees: their coast is dangerous: there are few
vegetables: the people use no houses."
[* This expression indicates, that the before-mentioned places were not
then included under the term NEW HOLLAND by Witsen: he wrote in 1705.]
"In 19° 35' S. long. 134° (about 120°, apparently), the inhabitants are
very numerous, and threw stones at the boats sent by the Dutch to the
shore. They made fires and smoke all along the coast, which, it was
conjectured, they did to give notice to their neighbours of strangers
being upon the coast. They appear to live very poorly; go naked; eat yams
and other roots."
DAMPIER. 1688.
The buccaneers with whom our celebrated navigator, WILLIAM DAMPIER, made
a voyage round the world, came upon the north-west coast of Terra
Australis, for the purposes of careening their vessel, and procuring
refreshments. They made the land in the latitude of 16° 50', due south
from a shoal whose longitude is now known to be 122¼° east. From thence,
they ran along the shore, N. E. by E. twelve leagues, to a bay or
opening, where a convenient place was found for their purpose. Dampier's
description of the country and inhabitants of the place, where he
remained from Jan. 5. to March 12., is contained in the account of his
voyages, Vol. I. page 462 to 470; and renders it unnecessary to do more
than to mark its coincidence or disagreement with what is said, in the
above note from Tasman, of the inhabitants and country near the same part
of the coast.
Dampier agrees in the natives being "a naked, black people, with curly
hair," like that of the negroes; but he says they have "a piece of the
rind of a tree tied like a girdle about their waists, and a handful of
long grass, or three or four green boughs full of leaves, thrust under
their girdle, to cover their nakedness." Also, "that the two fore teeth of
the upper jaw are wanting in all of them, men and women, old and young:
neither have they any beards;" which circumstances are not mentioned in
the note from Tasman. Dampier did not see either bows or arrows amongst
them; but says, "the men, at our first coming ashore, threatened us with
their lances and swords; but they were frightened by firing one gun,
which we did purposely to scar them." Of "their prows made of the bark of
trees," he saw nothing. On the contrary, he "espied a drove of these men
swimming from one island to another; for _they have no boats, canoes, or
bark logs_." The English navigator is silent as to any dangers upon the
twelve leagues of coast seen by him; but fully agrees in the scarcity of
the vegetable productions, and in the circumstance of the natives using
no houses.
VLAMING. 1696.
The relation of Willem DE VLAMING'S voyage to New Holland was published
at Amsterdam in 1701; but not having been fortunate enough to procure it,
I have had recourse to _Valentyn_, who, in his _Description of Banda_,
has given what appears to be an abridgment of the relation. What follows
is conformable to the sense of the translation which Dr. L. Tiarks had
the goodness to make for me; and the reasons for entering more into the
particulars of this voyage than usual are, the apparent correctness of
the observations, and that no account of them seems to have been
published in the English language.*
[* The Abbé Prévost in his _Hist. gen. des Voyages_, Tome XVI. (à la
Haye) p. 79-81, has given some account of Vlaming's voyage in French; but
the observations on the coast between Shark's Bay and Willem's River are
there wholly omitted.]
A Dutch ship, called the _Ridderschap_, having been missing from the time
she had left the Cape of Good Hope, in 1684 or 1685, it was thought
probable she might have been wrecked upon the GREAT SOUTH LAND, and that
some of the crew might (in 1696) be still living. Accordingly, the
commodore Willem de Vlaming, who was going out to India with the
_Geelvink_, _Nyptang_, and _Wezel_, was ordered to make a search for
them.
On Dec. 28, the ships got soundings in 48 fathoms, coral bottom; in
latitude 31° 53', and longitude 133° 44' (east, apparently, from the Peak
of Teneriffe, 16° 45' to the west of Greenwich); where the variation was
observed to be 10° 28' west: they afterwards had 25 fathoms, on better
ground. On the 29th, they anchored under the island _Rottenest_, which
lies in lat. 31° 50', long. 134° 25';* and next day, a piece of wood,
which had some time been fixed to the deck of a ship, was found upon the
shore; but the nails were then rusted away. Fire wood was abundant here.
[* The account in _Van Keulen_ is somewhat different. He says "we steered
for the Land of Endragt: and on Dec. 28, got soundings in 63 fathoms,
sandy bottom. The ensuing day we had 30 fathoms, and the coast was then
in sight. The Island Rottenest, in 32° south latitude, was the land we
steered for; and we had from 30 to 10 fathoms, in which last we anchored
on a sandy bottom."]
VLAMING. 1697.
Jan. 5. Vlaming went on shore (to the main coast), with eighty-eight
armed men, and walked inland to the eastward. There were a few large, and
some small trees, from which dropped a kind of _gum-lac_; but they found
nothing which could be used as food: the birds were small cockatoos and
green parrots, and both were very shy. At the end of three hours walk
they came to a piece of water, which was salt, and upon the beach were
footsteps of full-grown persons and of children. No men were seen, but
they observed many smokes; and found three deserted huts, so low and
ill-constructed as to be inferior to those of the Hottentots.
On the 6th, they divided themselves into three parties: one took to the
north, another to the south, and the third went four miles east, more
into the interior; but, except one or two decayed huts, they met with
nothing. Being returned to the salt lake without finding fresh water,
they dug a pit near the side of it, and obtained wherewith to relieve
their thirst. The lake had fallen a foot, which showed it to have a
communication with the sea; and they afterwards found the outlet, a
little to the southward. No noxious animal of any kind was seen; and
after remaining on shore all night, they returned on board on the 7th.
The ships were then anchored nearer to the land, with the entrance of the
lake or river bearing S. E. by E. The commodore afterwards went up this
river, to the distance of fourteen or sixteen leagues, and caught some
smelts, as also several black swans, of which two were taken alive to
Batavia.*
[* This appears to be the first mention made of the black swan: the river
was named _Black-Swan River_.]
Having clearly ascertained the latitude (of the ships at anchor, most
probably,) to be 31° 43' south, and discovered a reef four geographic
miles in length, and two miles from the shore, they sailed from thence on
Jan. 13. The wind was from the southward; and whilst the ships steered N.
by W., parallel to the coast, the boats ran along within them, to examine
it more closely. On the 15th, the people from the boats reported that
they had seen neither men nor animals, and very few trees; but had met
with a reef near the shore, in 30° 17'; and many shoals, both under and
above water.
Fires upon the land were seen from all the ships in the night of Jan. 16;
and next day, a boat was sent with armed people; but they returned with
nothing, except some sea-mews which had been caught upon the islands and
shoals lying along the coast. On the 18th, the ships were in latitude 30°
30', and found the variation to be 9° 21' west; and the 20th, some small
islands were seen, and shrubs observed on the main land. On the 23rd,
they were near a steep head, in 28° 8', and sent a boat to the shore; but
the high surf prevented landing. People were perceived walking on the
downs, but at too great a distance to distinguish more than that they
were of the common stature, black, and naked.* The boat got on shore soon
afterward, when some brackish water was found; and having landed again on
the 27th, the people saw some huts, as also the footsteps of men, and
some birds; but there was no other vegetation than small shrubs. Some
very indifferent water was the sole useful thing met with, and it was too
far off for any to be taken on board.
[* It was near this place that captain Pelsert put the two Dutch
conspirators on shore in 1629. Vlaming appears to have passed within
_Houtman's Abrolhos_ without seeing them.]
Jan. 30. The boats were again sent on shore, and discovered two inlets,
of which the southernmost, in latitude 26° 16', was three miles in width.
On Feb. 2, they found two other openings, very deep, one of which ran up
northward, and the other to the east, far inland. They went eleven
leagues up the first of these, and found that it had another
communication with the sea, to the N. N. W.* On the 3rd, a boat brought
the above account; and also, that the chief mate of the Geelvink had
found a plate of tin, with an inscription commemorating the arrival and
departure of _Dirk Hartog_. (See the inscription under the article
Hartog, preceding.) This Road of Dirk Hartog's Bay, where the plate had
been set up, is in 25° 24'; and the west variation was 8° 34'.
[* These two openings, which in the original are called rivers, were
nothing more than the entrance into Shark's Bay. A small island, lying a
little within the entrance, probably made it be taken for two openings.]
No mention is made by Valentyn of the ships entering the road, nor of
their departure from it; but it should seem that they anchored on Feb. 4.
On the 5th, commodore Vlaming and the commander of the Nyptang went with
three boats to the shore, which proved to be an island. They found also a
river, and went up it four or five leagues, amongst rocks and shoals;
when they saw much water inland, as if the country were drowned, but no
men, nor any thing for food; and, wherever they dug, the ground was salt.
They afterwards came to another river, which they ascended about one
league, and found it to terminate in a round basin, and to be entirely
salt water. No men were seen, nor any animals, except divers which were
very shy; and the country was destitute of grass and trees. Returning
downward on the 10th, they saw footsteps of men and children, of the
common size, and observed the point of entrance into the river to be of a
very red sand.
The ships appear to have left Dirk Hartog's Road on Feb. 12. In the
evening, the west variation was observed to be 7° 21'; am on the 13th,
they saw a cliffy point from whence three shoals, connected by a reef,
stretch out to the N. N. E. The shore here, in latitude 24° 42', lies S.
by E. and N. by W. On the 16th, they passed round the point, and steered
southward along the inner side of this land; and having doubled its south
end, found that it was it was an island: their latitude was then 24° 54'.
Feb. 17. The variation was observed to be 5° west, in latitude 23° 59'.
Eight miles south of this situation they saw a bay with a rugged point;
but to the northward the land was low: the variation was 7° 3', in the
evening. They discovered some reefs on the 19th, lying three geographic
miles off shore; and also a point or cape (the North-west Cape) from
which a reef extended two miles to the N. N. W. On the north side of this
cape is a bay, where the Geelvink anchored; and a little further on
(eastward), the other two vessels found an _opening like a river, whose
entrance was twelve miles wide_. They went into it, _but could no where
find anchorage_. The bay is called _Willem's River_; and the two vessels
afterwards there joined the Geelvink: it is in 21° 28'. The same day it
was determined to sail for Batavia, every thing having been done that the
commodore's orders required; and, on the 21st, they departed accordingly.
Thus the West Coast, from the island Rottenest to the North-west Cape,
was examined with care by Vlaming; and it is most probable, that the
chart in Van Keulen, which Mr. Dalrymple republished, and was the best
known at the end of the eighteenth century, resulted from this same
voyage.
DAMPIER. 1699.
CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER visited, a second time, the western coasts of
Terra Australis; being then sent out purposely for discovery, in his
Majesty's ship the _Roebuck_.
In the night of Aug. 1, 1699, he struck soundings upon the northern part
of the Abrolhos shoal, in latitude about 27° 40' south. Next morning he
saw the main coast, and ran northward along it; discovering, in 26. 10',
an opening two leagues wide, but full of rocks and foul ground. Aug. 6,
he anchored (in _Dirk Hartog's Road_) at the entrance of a sound, which
he named SHARK's BAY, in latitude 25° 5' south. He remained there eight
days, examining the sound, cutting wood upon the islands, fishing, etc.;
and gives a description of what was seen in his usually circumstantial
manner.*
[* For the full account of Dampier's proceedings and observations, with
views of the land, see his _Voyages_, Vol. III. page 81, _et seq_.]
An animal found upon one of the islands is described as "a sort of
raccoon, different from that of the West Indies, chiefly as to the legs;
for these have very short fore legs; but go jumping upon them" (not upon
the short fore, but the long hind, legs, it is to be presumed), "as the
others do; and like them are very good meat." This appears to have been
the small kangaroo, since found upon the islands which form the road; and
if so, this description is probably the first ever made of that singular
animal.
Leaving Shark's Bay on Aug. 14, captain Dampier steered northward, along
the coast; but at too great a distance to make much observation upon it,
until he got round the North-west Cape. On the 22nd, he saw an extensive
cluster of islands; and anchored, in latitude 20° 21', under one of the
largest, which he called _Rosemary Island_. This was near the southern
part of De Witt's Land; but, besides an error in latitude of 40', he
complains that, in _Tasman's chart_, "the shore is laid down as all along
joining in one body, or continent, with some openings like rivers; and
not like islands, as really they are."--"By what we saw of them, they
must have been a range of islands, of about twenty leagues in length,
stretching from E. N. E. to W. S. W.; and for ought I know, as far as to
those of Shark's Bay; and to a considerable breadth also, for we could
see nine or ten leagues in amongst them, towards the continent or main
land of New Holland, _if there be any such thing hereabouts_: And by the
great tides I met with awhile afterwards, more to the north-east, I had a
strong suspicion that here might be a kind of archipelago of islands; and
a passage, possibly, to the to the south of New Holland and New Guinea,
into the great South Sea, eastward."
Not finding fresh water upon such of the islands as were visited that
day, captain Dampier quitted his anchorage next morning, and "steered
away E. N. E., coasting along as the land lies." He seems to have kept
the land in sight, in the day time, at the distance of four to six
leagues; but the shore being low, this was too far for him to be certain
whether all was main land which he saw; and what might have been passed
in the night was still more doubtful.
Aug. 30, being in latitude 18° 21', and the weather fair, captain Dampier
steered in for the shore; and anchored in 8 fathoms, about three-and-half
leagues off. The tide ran "very swift here; so that our nun-buoy would
not bear above the water to be seen. It flows here, as on that part of
New Holland I described formerly, about five fathoms."
He had hitherto seen no inhabitants; but now met with several. The place
at which he had touched in the former voyage "was not above forty or
fifty leagues to the north-east of this. And these were much the same
blinking creatures (here being also abundance of the same kind of flesh
flies teizing them), and with the same black skins, and hair frizzled,
tall and thin, etc., as those were. But we had not the opportunity to see
whether these, as the former, wanted two of their fore teeth." One of
them, who was supposed to be a chief, "was painted with a circle of
white paste or pigment about his eyes, and a white streak down his nose,
from his forehead to the tip of it. And his breast, and some part of his
arms, were also made white with the same paint."
Neither bows nor arrows were observed amongst these people: they used
wooden lances, such as Dampier had before seen. He saw no houses at
either place, and believed they had none; but "there were several things
like haycocks, standing in the savannah; which, at a distance, we thought
were houses, looking just like the Hottentots' houses at the Cape of Good
Hope; but we found them to be so many rocks." *
[* Dampier could not have examined these rocks closely; for there can be
little doubt that they were the ant hills described by Pelsert as being
"so large., that they might have been taken for the houses of Indians."]
The land near the sea-coast is described as equally sandy with the parts
before visited, and producing, amongst its scanty vegetation, nothing for
food. No stream of fresh water was seen, nor could any, fit to drink, be
procured by digging.
Quitting this inhospitable shore, captain Dampier weighed his anchor on
September 5, with the intention of seeking water and refreshments further
on to the north-eastward. The shoals obliged him to keep at a
considerable distance from the land; and finally, when arrived at the
latitude 16° 9', to give up his project, and direct his course for Timor.
CONCLUSIVE REMARKS.
With the voyage of Dampier terminates the information gained of the
Western Coasts, previously to the year 1801. Monsieur de _St. Alouarn_
had, indeed, seen some points or islands, in the year 1772, when he
commanded the French _flûte Le Gros Ventre_; but the particulars are not
generally known, being, in all probability, of little importance.
The summary of the knowledge possessed by the public, and the objects to
which investigation might be usefully directed in these parts of Terra
Australis, were as follow. The outline of the north-west coast was known
upon the authority, as generally believed, of _Tasman_; with some points
corrected by _Dampier_. The accuracy of Tasman's chart was, however, very
much called in doubt: instead of being a continued shore, as the Dutch
chart represented it, Dampier found the southern parts of De Witt's Land
to consist of a range of islands. And he gives it as his opinion, that
the northern part of New Holland was separated from the lands to the
southward, by a strait; "unless", says he, "the high tides and indraught
thereabout should be occasioned by the mouth of some large river; which
hath often low lands on each side of the outlet, and many islands and
shoals lying at its entrance: but I rather thought it a channel, or
strait, than a river." This opinion he supports by a fair induction from
facts; and the opening of _twelve miles wide_, seen near the same place
by Vlaming's two vessels, and in which they could find no anchorage,
strongly corroborated Dampier's supposition.
Later information had demonstrated, that the supposed strait could not
lead out into the Great Ocean, eastward, as the English navigator had
conjectured; but it was thought possible, that it might communicate with
the Gulph of Carpentaria, and even probable that a passage existed from
thence to the unknown part of the South Coast, beyond the Isles of St.
Francis and St. Peter.
But whether this opening were the entrance to a strait, separating Terra
Australis into two or more islands, or led into a mediterranean sea, as
some thought; or whether it were the entrance of a large river, there
was, in either case, a great geographical question to be settled,
relative to the parts behind Rosemary Island.
If Tasman's chart were defective at De Witt's Land, it was likely to be
so in other parts of the same coast; where there was no account, or
belief, that it had been examined by any other person further north than
the latitude 16½°. An investigation of the whole North-west Coast, with
its numerous islands and shoals, was, therefore, required, before it
could enter into the present improved systems of geography and
navigation.
The chart of the West Coast, as far south as Rottenest, was founded upon
much better authority; but for its formation from thence to Cape Leeuwin
there were no good documents. In this part, there was room even for
discovery; and the whole coast required to be laid down with more
accuracy than had been attainable by the Dutch navigators.
As to the soil and vegetable productions upon several points near the
sea, from Rottenest, northward to 16½, there was tolerably good general
information; the inhabitants, also, had been seen; and, at one place,
communication with them had been obtained. The accounts did, certainly,
not give any flattering prospect, that much interesting knowledge was
likely to be acquired under these heads, unless a strait, or inland sea,
were found; but the accounts were not only confined as to place, but,
with the exception of Dampier's, were very imperfect; and the great
extent of the coasts, in the richest climates of the world, excited hopes
that a close investigation would not only be of advantage to natural
history, but would bring to light something useful in the mineral or
vegetable kingdoms.
In the case of penetrating the interior of Terra Australis, whether by a
great river, or a strait leading to an inland sea, a superior country,
and perhaps a different people, might be found, the knowledge of which
could not fail to be very interesting, and might prove advantageous to
the nation making the discovery.
PRIOR DISCOVERIES IN TERRA AUSTRALIS.
SECTION III.
SOUTH COAST.
Discovery of Nuyts.
Examination of Vancouver:
of D'Entrecasteaux.
Conclusive Remarks.
NUYTS. 1627. (Atl. Pl. I.)
No historical fact seems to be less disputed, than that the South Coast
of New Holland was first discovered in January 1627: whether it were the
26th, according to _De Hondt_, or the 16th, as is expressed on
_Thevenot's_ chart, is of very little import. It is generally said, that
the ship was commanded by PIETER NUYTS; but as Nuyts, on his arrival at
Batavia, was sent ambassador to Japan, and afterwards made governor of
Formosa, it seems more probable that he was a civilian, perhaps Company's
first merchant on board, rather than captain of the ship: the land
discovered has, however, always borne his name.
The Dutch recital says--"In the year 1627, the South Coast of the
_Great_ SOUTH LAND was accidentally discovered by the ship the _Gulde
Zeepaard_, outward-bound from Fatherland, for the space of a thousand
miles."
This discovery has always been considered as of importance. A memoir was
published at Amsterdam in 1718, "to prove, that NUYTS' LAND, being in the
fifth climate, between 34° and 36° of latitude; it ought to be, like all
other countries so situated, one of the most habitable, most rich, and
most fertile parts of the world." * The journal of this discovery seems to
have been lost; or possibly was either suppressed or destroyed, according
to what is thought to have been the Dutch policy of that time. It was,
therefore, from the chart, and the above passage in the recital, alone,
that any particulars could be drawn. If the extent of a _thousand miles_
were taken to be in a straight line, and to commence at Cape Leeuwin, the
end of Nuyts' Land would reach nearly to the longitude of 135° east of
Greenwich; but if, as was probable, the windings of the shore were
included, and a deduction made of one-sixth to one-seventh in the
distance, then the Isles of St. Francis and St. Peter might be expected
to be found between the 132nd and 133rd degrees of east longitude.
[* _Hist. des Nav. aux Terres Australes_. Tome I. page 429.]
VANCOUVER. 1791.
With the exception of Mons. de St. Alouarn, who is said to have anchored
near Cape Leeuwin in 1772, the south coast of Terra Australis, though
occupying much attention from geographers, seems to have been left
unvisited from 1627 to 1791. In this year, captain GEORGE VANCOUVER,
being on his way to North-west America, made the South Coast on Sept. 26,
at _Cape Chatham_, in latitude 35° 3' south, and longitude 116° 35' east,
not many leagues beyond where Nuyts appears to have commenced his
discovery. He sailed eastward, from thence, along the shore, till the
28th; when he anchored in a sound, to which was given the name of KING
GEORGE THE III.
The country in the neighbourhood of the Sound, and of its two harbours,
was found to be agreeably variegated in form; to be clothed with grass
and wood; and, though generally more barren than fertile, yet affording
many spots capable of cultivation. No considerable river was discovered;
but fresh water was every where abundant for domestic purposes; and the
climate was judged to be as healthy as the temperature was found to be
agreeable. Kangaroos did not appear to be scarce; nor were the woods ill
tenanted by the feathered tribes; and reptiles and other noxious animals
were not numerous. Amongst the aquatic birds, black swans and wild ducks
held a distinguished place; but, like the land animals, were very shy:
sea and shell fish were in tolerable abundance.
None of the inhabitants were seen; but from the appearance of their
deserted huts, they were judged to be the same miserable race as those of
the North-west and East Coasts. No marks of canoes, nor the remains of
fish, even shell fish, were found near their habitations; and this
circumstance, with the shyness of the birds and quadrupeds, induced a
belief that the natives depended principally upon the woods for their
subsistence.
Captain Vancouver quitted King George's Sound on Oct. 11, and proceeded
eastward in the examination of the coast; but unfavourable winds
prevented him from doing this so completely as he wished, and some parts
were passed unseen; and the impediments to his progress at length caused
the examination to be quitted, in favour of prosecuting the main design
of his voyage. The last land seen was _Termination Island_, in latitude
34° 32' and longitude 122° 8'. The coast to the north of this island
appeared much broken; but, although in Nuyts' chart a considerable group
of islands were laid down in about that situation, captain Vancouver
rather supposed it to be a continued main land.*
[* For captain Vancouver's account of his proceedings and observations on
the South Coast, see his _Voyage round the World_, Vol. I. page 28-57.]
So far as this examination extended, the general form of the coast was
found to correspond with that of the old chart; nor was any material
error found in Nuyts' latitude. A further, and more extended confirmation
of the Dutch navigator's discovery, and of its having been well laid
down, considering the period at which it was done, was obtained in the
following year.
D'ENTRECASTEAUX. 1792.
The French rear-admiral BRUNY D'ENTRECASTEAUX, having been sent out with
the ships _La Recherche_ and _L'Espérance_ in search of the unfortunate
La Pérouse made the south coast of New Holland on Dec. 5, 1792, about
twenty-eight leagues to the north-west of Cape Chatham.* The coast, from
the South-west Cape to the longitude of Termination Island, was explored
by the admiral, with all the minuteness that the state of the weather
could permit; and he was, generally, able to keep the shore closer abord
than captain Vancouver had done, and to supply the deficiencies in his
chart. The broken land to the north of Termination Island was found to be
conformable to what Nuyts had laid down: it made part of a very extensive
group of islands, one of which afforded timely shelter to the French
ships on Dec. 9, from a gale which had arisen at south-west.
[*When the Investigator sailed, the journal of _M. Labillardière_,
naturalist in D'Entrecasteaux's expedition, was the sole account of the
voyage made public: but M. DE ROSSEI one of the principal officers, has
since published the voyage from the journals of the rear-admiral and it
is from this last that what follows is extracted.]
They remained a week at this anchorage, whilst the naturalists explored
the surrounding country, and the surveyors examined such of the islands
as were visible from the ships. Seals, penguins, and some kangaroos were
seen; but no fresh water, accessible to shipping, could any where be
found; the country within their reach being sandy and sterile. From Dec.
17 to 24, the ships were occupied in coasting eastward, along the
outskirt of the group of islands, and then found it to terminate at 2½°
of longitude from its commencement. The main land at the back of the
islands had been generally visible, but at too great a distance for the
precise form of the coast to be ascertained, or to allow of fixing the
positions of, or even seeing, many of the inner islands and reefs.
This group is the first of the two marked upon the chart of Nuyts; and
admiral D'Entrecasteaux praises the general accuracy of the Dutch
navigator, in that "the latitude of Point Leeuwin, and of the coast of
Nuyts' Land, were laid down with an exactness, surprising for the remote
period in which they had been discovered." This liberal acknowledgment
renders it the more extraordinary, that in the appellation which it was
judged proper to give to this extensive group, the French admiral had not
rather thought of doing honour to the original discoverer, or to the
_Gulde Zeepaard_, than to his own ship; more especially, as his
examination was far from being complete. This would have been more
conformable to his general practice; but ARCHIPEL DE LA RECHERCHE was the
name adopted.
Beyond the archipelago, the South Coast was found to trend
east-north-eastward; without any island lying off it, or presenting any
place of shelter. The shore was either a steep calcareous cliff, of an
equal height, or low and sandy, with a few naked hillocks behind; and
above these, no hill., nor any thing of the interior country, could be
discerned. "It is not surprising," says D'Entrecasteaux., "that Nuyts has
given no details of this barren coast; for its aspect is so uniform, that
the most fruitful imagination could find nothing to say of it."
1793.
Frustrated in his expectation of procuring fresh water, and having no
more than sufficient, at a short allowance, to reach Van Diemen's Land,
the admiral abandoned the investigation of the South Coast, on Jan. 3;
being then in latitude 31° 49' south, and longitude 131° 38½' east of
Greenwich.
In the otherwise excellent charts constructed by M. BEAUTEMPS-BEAUPRÉ,
geographical engineer on board La Recherche, there is an extraordinary
omission, arising either from the geographer, or the conductor of the
voyage. In the first 12° of longitude no soundings are marked along the
coast; whilst, in the last 50, they are marked with tolerable regularity:
the cause of this difference is not explained.
In comparing the French chart with that of Nuyts, it appeared that the
rear-admiral had not proceeded so far along this coast as the Dutch
navigator had done; for he did not see the islands of St. Francis and St.
Peter, nor the reef marked about thirty leagues to the west of them. The
point, however, where D'Entrecasteaux's examination terminated, was, in
all probability, within a few leagues of that reef; and the end of Nuyts'
discovery would be between 133° and 134° to the east of Greenwich.
CONCLUSIVE REMARKS.
The South Coast was not known, in 1801, to have been visited by any other
than the three navigators, _Nuyts_, _Vancouver_, and _D'Entrecasteaux_.*
The coast line, from Cape Leeuwin to near the longitude of 132°, was
generally so well ascertained, and the charts of Vancouver and
D'Entrecasteaux appeared to be so good, that little remained in this
space for future visitors to discover. At two places, the country and
productions near the sea-side had also been examined; though no
communication had any where been obtained with the inhabitants. It was
known also from Nuyts, that at 133° or 134° of east longitude, commenced
a second archipelago; and that the coast began there to assume an
irregular form; but in what direction it trended, whether to the
south-eastward for Bass' Strait, or northward for the Gulph of
Carpentaria, was altogether uncertain.
[* It afterwards appeared, that lieutenant James Grant had discovered a
part of it in 1800, in his way to Port Jackson with His Majesty's brig
Lady Nelson.]
The great point, then, which required to be ascertained, was the form of
the land from longitude 133° to 146° east, and from south latitude 32° to
38½°; comprising a space of two hundred and fifty leagues in a straight
line. What rendered a knowledge of this part more particularly
interesting, was the circumstance of no considerable river having been
found on any of the coasts of Terra Australis previously explored: but it
was scarcely credible that, if this vast country were one connected mass
of land, it should not contain some large rivers; and if any, this
unknown part was one of two remaining places, where they were expected to
discharge themselves into the sea.
The apparent want of rivers had induced some persons to think, that Terra
Australis might be composed of two or more islands, as had formerly been
suspected by the Dutch, and by Dampier; whilst others, believing in the
continuity of the shores, thought this want might arise from the interior
being principally occupied by a mediterranean sea; but it was generally
agreed, that one end of the separating channels, or otherwise the
entrance, if such existed, into the supposed sea, would most likely be
found in this unexplored part of the South Coast.
Besides the solution of this important geographical problem, something
remained to be done upon the parts already seen. The main land behind the
first archipelago, as also the inner islands, were yet to be examined for
harbours, where refreshment for ships might be obtained; a comparison of
the persons and usages of the inhabitants, with those in other parts of
this vast country, was desirable; and, although little utility could be
drawn from the known productions at the two points visited, it might
reasonably be hoped, that an investigation of a coast so extensive, would
not fail to produce much useful information.
Many circumstances, indeed, united to render the south coast of Terra
Australis one of the most interesting parts of the globe, to which
discovery could be directed at the beginning of the nineteenth century.
Its investigation had formed a part of the instructions to the
unfortunate French navigator La Pérouse, and afterwards of those to his
countryman D'Entrecasteaux; and it was, not without some reason,
attributed to England as a reproach, that an imaginary line of more than
two hundred and fifty leagues extent, in the vicinity of of one of her
colonies, should have been so long suffered to remain traced upon the
charts, under the title Of UNKNOWN COAST. This comported ill with her
reputation as the first of maritime powers; and to do it away was,
accordingly, a leading point in the instructions given to the
Investigator.
PRIOR DISCOVERIES IN TERRA AUSTRALIS.
SECTION IV
EAST COAST, WITH VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.
PART I.
Preliminary Observations.
Discoveries of Tasman;
of Cook;
Marion and Furneaux.
Observations of Cook;
Bligh; and Cox.
Discovery of D'Entrecasteaux.
Hayes.
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.
Van Diemen'S Land would more properly have been arranged under the head
of the South Coast; but the later discoveries here have so intimate a
connexion with those on the East, as to render it impossible to separate
them without making repetitions, and losing perspicuity in the narrative.
The anxiety of the Dutch government at Batavia, to know how far the SOUTH
LANDS might extend towards the antarctic circle, was the cause of Tasman
being sent with two vessels, to ascertain this point; and the discovery
of Van Diemen's Land was one of the results. It was not, however, the
policy of the Dutch government to make discoveries for the benefit of
general knowledge; and accordingly this voyage "was never," says Dr.
Campbell, "published intire; and it is probable, that the East-India
Company never intended it should be published at all. However, _Dirk
Rembrantz_, moved by the excellency and accuracy of the work, published
in _Low Dutch_ an extract of captain Tasman's journal, which has ever
since been considered as a great curiosity; and as such, has been
translated into many languages." *
[* _Complete Collection of Voyages and Travels, originally published by
John Harris, D. D. and F. R. S._ London, 1744. Vol. I. page 325.]
If a judgment may be formed from the translations, Rembrantz must have
omitted great part of the nautical details concerning Van Diemen's Land,
a defect which is remedied in the following account. It is taken from a
journal containing, besides the daily transactions and observations
throughout the whole voyage, a series of thirty-eight manuscript charts,
views, and figures. The expression _by me_, which often occurs in it, and
followed by the signature _Abel Jansz Tasman_, shows that if this were
not his original journal, it is a copy from it: probably one made on
board for the governor and council of Batavia. With this interesting
document, and a translation made in 1776, by Mr. C. G. Woide, chaplain of
His Majesty's Dutch chapel at St. James's, I was favoured by the Right
Hon. SIR JOSEPH BANKS.*
[* I am proud to take this opportunity of publicly expressing my
obligations to the Right Hon. President of the Royal Society; and of thus
adding my voice to the many who, in the pursuit of science, have found in
him a friend and patron. Such he proved in the commencement of my voyage,
and in the whole course of its duration; in the distresses which tyranny
heaped upon those of accident; and after they were overcome. His
extensive and valuable library has been laid open; and has furnished much
that no time or expense, within my reach, could otherwise have procured.]
TASMAN. 1642. (Atlas. Plate VII.)
CAPTAIN ABEL JANSZ TASMAN sailed from Batavia on Aug. 14, 1642, with the
yacht _Heemskerk_ and fly-boat _Zeehaan_; and, after touching at
Mauritius, steered south and eastward upon discovery. Nov. 24, at four
p.m., high land was seen in the E. by N., supposed to be distant forty
miles. The ships steered towards it till the evening; when there were
high mountains visible in the E. S. E., and two smaller ones in the N. E.
They sounded in 100 fathoms, and then stood off from the land, with the
wind at south-east.
In the morning of Nov. 25., it was calm; but on a breeze springing up
from the southward, Tasman steered for the land; and at five p.m., when
it was twelve miles distant, sounded in 60 fathoms, coral bottom: at four
miles off, the bottom was fine white sand. The latitude was then 42° 30'
south; the _mean of all their longitudes_ 163° 50' east (of Teneriffe
apparently); and the compass had no variation. The coast here lies S. by
E. and N. by W. It is of an even height; and was named ANTONY VAN
DIEMEN's LAND, in honour of the governor-general, "our master, who sent
us out to make discoveries. The islands round about, as many of them as
were known to us, we called in honour of the Council of India."
The ships stood off again for the night, with a light breeze at S. S. E.
On the 26th, the wind was from the eastward, and weather rainy, so that
no land could be seen; but its distance was supposed to be twelve or
thirteen leagues. At noon, the latitude from dead reckoning was 43° 36',
and longitude 163° 2'; the course having been S. S. W. 72 miles.* In the
evening the wind shifted to the north-east, and their course was directed
E. S. E.: the variation was then half a degree west.
[* This and the following courses and distances run from one noon to
another, do not always agree with the latitudes and longitudes; but the
differences are not great: They probably arose from the distances being
marked to the nearest Dutch mile on the log board; whereas the latitude
and longitude are taken to minutes of a degree.]
Nov. 27, the land was again seen. At noon, a course of S. E. by E. 52
miles, gave the latitude by estimation 44° 4' south, and longitude 164°
2' east. The weather was thick and rainy, and the wind still from the
north-eastward; and at the fourth hour of the night, the vessels lay to,
not venturing to run in the dark. In the morning of the 28th, it was
foggy, with rain. They made sail to the east; but on seeing the land from
N. E. to N. N. E., hauled up for it. From what could be perceived of the
coast, it extended S. E. by E. and N. W. by W., and seemed to decrease in
height to the eastward. At noon, the latitude by estimation was 44° 1',
longitude 165° 2'; and the course steered, E. by S. 44 miles. The wind
was then at north-west; and in the evening, they came near three small
islands, one of which was shaped like a lion's head, and lies twelve
miles from the continent (this was the _Mewstone_, of Furneaux). The wind
was from the eastward in the night, and the ships lay to.
Nov. 29, they were still near the cliffy, lion-head-shaped island. The
wind was light and fair, and they steered parallel to the coast, which
lies here east and west. At noon, having made a course of E. N. E. 48
miles, the latitude was judged to be 43° 53', longitude 166° 3'. They
had, a little before, passed two cliffy islets lying to seaward; of which
the westernmost (_Swilly_ of Furneaux) is like _Pedra Blanca_ near the
coast of China: the easternmost (_Eddystone_ of Cook) resembles an
awkward tower, and is about sixteen miles from the main land. Continuing
to coast along the shore, they came, at five in the evening, to a bay,
into which it was resolved in council to enter; but when almost in it, a
high wind rose, and obliged them to shorten sail and stand out to sea. At
daylight of the 30th, they found themselves driven so far off by the
_storm_ (whence the name of STORM BAY, applied in the chart), that the
land was scarcely visible. At noon, the general course had been E. by N.
80 miles; the latitude _was found_ to be 43° 41', and longitude by
estimation (corrected) 168° 3': the needle pointed here, true North. The
land was in sight to the north-west, and the wind strong, but variable,
from the northward. The ships steered westward for a short time; but the
weather being too stormy to admit of approaching the land, they went upon
the other tack; and kept as much to the northward., under easy sail, as
the wind would permit.
Dec. 1, the wind was more moderate; and on its veering to W. S. W., the
ships steered towards the shore. At noon, their course made good was N.
N. W. 39 miles; the latitude was 43° 10' and longitude 167° 55'. It then
fell calm, and a council of officers from the two vessels was called, in
which it was resolved, if wind and weather permitted, "to get a knowledge
of the land, and some refreshments." An eastern breeze sprung up soon
afterward; and they got to anchor, an hour after sunset, "in a good port,
in 22 fathoms, whitish good-holding sand; wherefore we ought to cc praise
GOD ALMIGHTY." This port is called FREDERIK HENDRIK'S BAY, in the chart.
Next morning early, two armed boats were sent to an inlet (the inner
bay), situate four or five miles to the north-westward of the ships, in
order to search for fresh water, wood, and refreshments. They returned in
the afternoon, and the officers gave the following account.
They rowed four or five miles round the point of the inlet, along a high
and level shore. Wild greens were plentiful; some resembled those at the
Cape of Good Hope, "and may be used in place of wormwood;" others were
long and saltish, and like sea parsley. They found many dry gullies, and
one watering place in which the water was good, but obtained with
difficulty, and in very small quantities. Some human voices were heard,
and a sound like that of a trumpet, or little _gong_, which was not far
off; but they could see no person. Amongst the trees, two were remarked
whose thickness was two, or two and a half fathoms, and the first
branches from sixty to sixty-five feet above the ground. The bark had
been taken off with a flint stone, and steps were cut, full five feet one
from the other; whence the natives were presumed to be very tall, or able
to get up these trees by some artifice. They supposed the steps to be
made for the purpose of getting at the nests of birds; and that some of
them had not been cut above four days before. They observed traces on the
ground, as if made by the claws of a tiger; and saw the excrements, as
was thought, of quadrupeds. Some well-looking gums, which dropped from
the trees and somewhat resembled _gum-lac_, were brought on board.
Off the east point of the (inner) bay, they found thirteen to fourteen
feet water; and that the tide flowed about three feet. They there saw a
number of men, of wild ducks, and geese; but inland none were seen,
though their noise was heard. Muscles were found sticking to bushes, in
different places. The country was covered with trees; but so thinly
scattered, that one might see every where to a great distance amongst
them, and distinguish men and animals. Several of the trees were "much
burnt about the foot; and the ground was here and there like little
squares (_vuysterchen_), and become as hard as stone, by fire."
A short time before the boats returned, a thick smoke had been observed
upon the continent, to the west of where the ships lay at anchor; and
from the people staying so much longer than they had been ordered, it was
thought to have been made by them, as a signal. But on inquiry, they
answered in the negative; and said that they, also, had seen smoke in
several places; and bushes--(here seems to be a line omitted.) "So that
without doubt, here must be exceedingly tall people."
Dec. 3. A boat was sent to the south-east part of the (outer) bay, and
found fresh water; but it broke through the low shore to the sea, and was
brackish; and the soil was too rocky to dig wells. In the afternoon,
commodore Tasman went, with several officers from both vessels in two
boats, to the south-east extremity of the bay; taking with them the
PRINCE'S flag, and a post upon which was cut a compass, to be erected on
shore. One of the boats was obliged to return, from the bad weather; but
the shallop went to a little cove W. S. W. of the ships. The surf being
there too high to admit of landing, the first carpenter, _Pieter
Jacobsz_, swam on shore with the post and Prince's flag; and set it up
near the last of four remarkable trees, which stood in the form of a
crescent, in the middle of the cove. "When the first carpenter had done
this, in the sight of me ABEL J. TASMAN, of the master _Gerrit Jansz_,
and under-merchant _Abraham Coomans_, we went with the shallop as near as
possible to the shore, and the said carpenter swam back, through the
surf. We then returned on board; and left this as a memorial to the
posterity of the inhabitants of this country. They did not show
themselves; but we suspected some to be not far from thence, watching
carefully our doings."
The wind was from the northward all this day; and at sunset, it blew a
storm. The variation at anchor was observed to be 3° east; the latitude
was 43° south, and longitude 167½° east from Teneriffe.
Dec. 4. The wind was more moderate, and came from the westward, off the
land. The anchors were then weighed, but the flukes of one were broken.
On quitting Frederik Hendrik's Bay, the ships steered northward as much
as possible, to look for a watering place. At noon, the course had been
N. E. 32 miles; the latitude was 42° 40', and longitude 168°. In the
evening, they saw a round mountain, about eleven leagues to the N. N. W.;
and during the whole day, several smokes were visible along the coast.
"Here," says Tasman, "I should give a description of the extent of the
coast, and the islands near it, but I hope to be excused, and refer, for
brevity's sake, to the chart made of it, and herewith joined."
The ships kept close to the wind all night, as they did in the morning of
Dec. 5, when it was N. W. by W. The high round mountain was then seen
bearing west, eight leagues, and this was the furthest land visible, nor
did the wind allow them to come in with it again. At noon, the latitude
was judged to be 41° 34', and longitude 169°; the course for the last day
having been N. E. by N. 80 miles. Tasman then steered "precisely
eastward, to make further discoveries," agreeably to a resolution of the
council, taken in the morning.
The copy of Tasman's charts, given in the Atlas, PLATE III. of
D'Entrecasteaux's Voyage, and taken from Valentyn, is conformable to the
manuscript charts in the Dutch journal. There is, however, an error of
one degree too much east, in the scale of longitude; and Pedra Blanca is
erroneously written against the Eddystone, in the general chart. In the
plan of Frederik Hendrik's Bay, the name is placed _within_ the inner
bay, instead of being written, as in the original, on the point of land
between the inner and outer bays: I conceive the name was intended to
comprise both.*
[* In Vol. III. just published, of captain Burney's _History of
Discoveries in the South Sea_, a copy is given of Tasman's charts, as
they stand in the original.]
COOK. 1770.
More than a century had elapsed after this celebrated voyage of Tasman,
and the eastern limit of Terra Australis remained still unknown. But the
British nation was then taking the lead in discovery; and the new and
liberal principles upon which His Majesty, GEORGE III, ordered it to be
prosecuted, was a sure indication that so considerable a part of the
globe would not long escape attention. Captain JAMES COOK, accompanied by
Mr. Green, was sent in the _Endeavour_ to observe, at Taheity, the
transit of Venus over the sun's disk; and after accomplishing that
object, and making a survey of New Zealand, he continued his course
westward, in order to explore the east side of the _Terra Australis
Incognita_.
(Atlas, Pl. I.)
In the morning of April 19,1770, the land was seen bearing from
north-east to west; the furthest part, in the latter direction, being
judged to lie in 38° south, and 148° 53' east. But captain Cook could not
determine whether it did, or did not, join to Tasman's Van Diemen's Land.
It would be superfluous, here, to follow our great navigator in his
discoveries along the coast, northward to _Botany Bay_ and from thence to
Cape York. Such an abstract as suits the plan of this Introduction would
be little satisfactory to the reader; when, by an easy reference to the
original narrative, so much interesting information upon this new
country, its productions, and inhabitants, may be obtained.*
[* _Hawkesworth's Voyages_, Vol. III. page 77, _et seq_.]
This voyage of captain Cook, whether considered in the extent of his
discoveries and the accuracy with which they were traced, or in the
labours of his scientific associates, far surpassed all that had gone
before. The general plan of the voyage did not, however, permit captain
Cook to enter minutely into the details of every part; and had it been
otherwise, the very extent of his discoveries would have rendered it
impossible. Thus, some portions of the east coast of Terra Australis were
passed in the night, many openings were seen and left unexamined., and
the islands and reefs lying at a distance from the shore could,
generally, be no more than indicated: he reaped the harvest of discovery,
but the gleanings of the field remained to be gathered.
MARION. 1772.
The first visitor to Van Diemen's Land, after Tasman, its discoverer, was
captain MARION. He commanded the _Mascarin_ and _Marquis de Castries_,
from the Isle Mauritius; and one of the objects of his expedition, was
the discovery of the supposed SOUTHERN CONTINENT. This voyage possesses a
considerable degree of interest, and was published at Paris in 1783; but
not being generally known in England, the parts which relate to Van
Diemen's Land, are here given in abridgment.
March 3, 1772, M. Marion made the west side, in latitude 42° 56', half a
degree south of Tasman's first land fall; and behind a point in 43° 15',
he saw an opening leading to the northward, but of which no particular
mention is made. Steering eastward, round all the rocks and islets lying
off the south coast, he arrived, on the evening of the 4th, in _Frederik
Hendrik's Bay_; and anchored in 22 fathoms, sandy bottom. The great sandy
cove of the outer bay bore from thence, S. 25° W. one league and a half;
the extreme of Maria's Island, N. E. by N.; and the northernmost part of
the main land, N.
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