Journals of Australian Explorations
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Title: Journals of Australian Explorations
Author: Augustus Charles Gregory
Francis Thomas Gregory
Release date: December 1, 2003 [eBook #10461]
Most recently updated: October 28, 2024
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/10461
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF AUSTRALIAN EXPLORATIONS ***
JOURNALS
OF
AUSTRALIAN EXPLORATIONS
BY
AUGUSTUS CHARLES GREGORY,
C.M.G., F.R.G.S., ETC.,
Gold Medalist, Royal Geographical Society,
AND
FRANCIS THOMAS GREGORY,
F.R.G.S., ETC., ETC.,
Gold Medalist, Royal Geographical Society.
BRISBANE:
JAMES C. BEAL, GOVERNMENT PRINTER, WILLIAM STREET.
1884.
PREFACE.
Numerous inquiries having been made for copies of the Journals of the
Explorations by the Messrs. Gregory in the Western, Northern, and Central
portions of Australia, and as these journals have hitherto only been
partially published in a fragmentary form, and are now out of print, it
has been deemed desirable to collect the material into one volume, for
convenience of reference, and to place on permanent record some of the
earlier attempts to penetrate the terra incognita which then constituted
so vast a portion of the Australian Continent.
Although, during the twenty-two years which have elapsed since the last
of these expeditions was undertaken, the geographical knowledge of
Australia has so far advanced as to fill in most of the details of its
physical features and set at rest the speculative opinions and theories
of early explorers, it has not been deemed desirable to alter or amend
the impressions or views recorded at the time, but simply reproduce the
journals as originally compiled.
[TABLE OF CONTENTS.
MESSRS. GREGORY'S EXPEDITION TO THE EAST AND NORTH OF SWAN RIVER. 1846.
THE SETTLERS' EXPEDITION TO THE NORTHWARD FROM PERTH, UNDER MR.
ASSISTANT-SURVEYOR A.C. GREGORY. 1848.
HIS EXCELLENCY GOVERNOR CHARLES FITZGERALD'S EXPEDITION TO THE GERALDINE
LEAD MINE. 1848.
THE MURCHISON RIVER. 1857.
GASCOYNE RIVER. 1858.
NORTH-WEST COAST. 1861.
NORTH AUSTRALIAN EXPEDITION. 1855 TO 1856.
EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF DR. LEICHHARDT. 1857 TO 1858.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
[missing frontispiece (ripped out), probably photo of A.C. Gregory.]
F.T. GREGORY.
H.C. GREGORY.
THE GOUTY-STEM TREE, NEAR THE DOME, ON THE RIVER VICTORIA, NORTH-WEST
AUSTRALIA.
T. BAINES.
C.F. GREGORY.]
AUSTRALIAN EXPLORATIONS.
MESSRS. GREGORY'S EXPEDITION TO THE EAST AND NORTH OF SWAN RIVER.
1846.
EARLY CONDITION OF WEST AUSTRALIA.
The colony of Western Australia was established in 1829; but its
isolation from the older settlement of New South Wales rendered it
necessary to import all the horses, cattle, and sheep by sailing vessels
from Tasmania, or other remote sources, while the heavy losses and
difficulties attending long sea voyages prevented any large importations
of stock--so that, though there was a fair rate of increase, the flocks
and herds of the settlers had found sufficient pasturage for the first
ten years on the banks of the Swan River and its upper valley, the Avon,
together with the coast district southward to the Vasse Inlet; but after
1840 the stock-owners began to feel that all prospect of material
increase must be relinquished unless additional pastures could be
discovered.
Several public as well as private expeditions were undertaken for the
purpose of ascertaining whether in the interior or along the coast on
either side of the settlement there existed any available country, but
they had only encountered dense scrubs of acacia and eucalyptus, with
salt marshes and scarcity of fresh water in the interior. The coast to
the east had been traversed from Adelaide to King George's Sound by Mr.
Eyre, and found to be altogether unfit for settlement, while to the north
the coast presented a series of sandy plains for more than 200 miles.
It may now appear extraordinary that the earlier explorers in Australia
were so frequently unsuccessful in their endeavours to penetrate the
interior; but the scarcity of suitable horses, the unsuitable character
of the saddlery, cumbersome camp equipment, and deficiency of knowledge
regarding the seasons in the interior, all combined to defeat the first
explorers in districts which have since been traversed with comparative
facility.
In 1846 the known country had become so nearly stocked to the full extent
of its capability that the leading question of interest with the settlers
was, where new runs could be discovered; and, among many others, the
Messrs. Gregory proposed to attempt the further exploration of the
interior.
Messrs. A.C. and F.T. Gregory, who were attached to the department of the
Surveyor-General, applied for three months' leave of absence for the
purpose; but it was eventually arranged that the expedition should be
under the auspices of the Government, which provided four horses, and
voted 5 pounds for the purchase of equipment, the remainder being
supplied at private expense.
The party consisted of A.C. Gregory, F.T. Gregory, and H.C. Gregory,
provided with four horses and seven weeks' provisions, the equipment
being reduced to the least possible weight. The starting point was Mr.
T.N. Yule's station, in the Toodyay district, sixty miles north-east from
Perth.
The following is a transcript of the journal:--
EXPLORATION TO EAST OF SWAN RIVER, 1846.
DIARY.
7th August, 1846.
Leaving Mr. Yule's farm at Boyeen Spring, passed Captain Scully's station
at Bolgart Spring at 10.15 a.m.; thence steered north 70 degrees east
over sandy downs, thinly timbered with eucalyptus; at 12.50 p.m. crossed
a small watercourse trending in the direction of our course till 2 p.m.,
when it turned south; at 3.50 p.m. halted for the night on a small stream
flowing to the south-west.
Latitude by observation 31 degrees 12 minutes 10 seconds; longitude 116
degrees 50 minutes.
8th August.
At 7.5 a.m. commenced a course 70 degrees; at 8.0 crossed a granite hill
with some grass, after which the country was scrubby till 9.30, when we
entered a grassy flat timbered with casuarina; at 10.25 the country was
more open, but scrubby; at 12.45 p.m. observed a small lake bearing 10
degrees; steered on that course, and reached it at 2.10 p.m.; halted till
3.15, and then resumed our former course through a swampy country, and at
4.50 camped on the bank of another small shallow lake.
Latitude by observation 31 degrees 4 minutes 24 seconds; longitude 117
degrees 4 minutes.
9th August.
At 7.35 a.m. steered on a course of 95 degrees through a scrubby country
with small wooded valleys; at noon observed several large shallow lakes
five to ten miles to the north-east; at 3 p.m. altered the course to 45
degrees, and at 3.30 to north; at 4 p.m. reached a large open flat
covered with salicornia and other salt plants, and with shallow lakes of
salt water. At the edge of the flat found a native well with good water
and a patch of grass around it, and bivouacked.
Latitude by observation 31 degrees 2 minutes 22 seconds; longitude 117
degrees 23 minutes 15 seconds.
10th August.
At 7.35 a.m. left the bivouac and steered 95 degrees, passed several
small salt lagoons in a thick swampy country; at 9.15 entered a gum
forest with close underwood, which rendered travelling slow and
difficult, but it gradually became more open; at 1 p.m. observed several
lakes to the north and east, six to seven miles distant; we then passed a
succession of dense thickets and patches of gum forest till 4.25, when we
turned north, and at 5.30 halted in an open patch of grass surrounded by
swampy thickets.
Latitude by observation 31 degrees 1 minute 44 seconds; longitude 117
degrees 45 minutes 10 seconds.
11th August.
At 7.25 a.m. steered north-east through gum forest; at 8.30 passed a dry
lagoon; at 9.10 changed the course to 95 degrees; the country became more
open; at 11.35 ascended an elevated ridge, and saw several bare granite
hills to the eastward; steered 75 degrees to the nearest; reached its
summit at 1.40 p.m., and halted for the remainder of the day to refresh
the horses, there being abundance of water in the hollows of the rock and
some grass around the base of the hill.
Latitude by observation 30 degrees 58 minutes 47 seconds; longitude 117
degrees 59 minutes 47 seconds.
DRY COUNTRY. GRANITE HILLS.
12th August.
Leaving the bivouac at 7.30 a.m., steered 122 degrees through alternate
patches of gum forest, underwood, and grass; at 11.50 reached the summit
of a bare granite hill, from which we could see Lake Brown, bearing 93
degrees to 103 degrees, Eaglestone Hill, 100 degrees, also many other
remarkable hills and peaks. Leaving this hill at 12.15 p.m., steered 58
degrees over undulating wooded country with several small watercourses
trending to the south; at 4.30 bivouacked at a scrubby hill, near a small
pool of rainwater, on a granite rock.
Latitude by observation 30 degrees 59 minutes 54 seconds; longitude 118
degrees 17 minutes.
13th August.
Resumed our course 58 degrees through level gum forest, then a spearwood
thicket, then dense underwood and patches of gum forest till 1.25 p.m.,
when we came to a native well among granite rocks; having watered the
horses, continued the course through the same description of country till
4.40, when we halted at the foot of a granite hill with plenty of
rainwater in the hollows and grass on a narrow strip between the scrub
and base of the bare rock.
Latitude by observation 30 degrees 48 minutes 34 seconds; longitude 118
degrees 40 minutes.
14th August.
Started at 10.35 a.m., and steered 41 degrees through a level country,
with thickets of underwood, cypress, and gum, with some grassy patches;
at 2.20 p.m. reached a bare granite hill, at the foot of which we
bivouacked.
15th August.
Leaving the bivouac at 7.15 a.m., steered 50 degrees; at 8.50 crossed a
steep ridge of white sandy rocks resting on granite; after this the
country was grassy, with little timber, 10.30, when we entered a thick
scrub; at 11.0 observed a high granite hill bearing 50 degrees, steered
for it, and reached the summit at 12.55 p.m., descending into thick scrub
on the other side. Having climbed a tree to get a view, observed a very
remarkable peak and range of rugged hills distant about forty miles, the
highest point bearing 57 degrees; at 2.30 came to scrubby country with
only a few trees, and at 4.15 camped at a small waterhole in a granite
rock.
Latitude by observation 30 degrees 31 minutes 43 seconds; longitude 118
degrees 52 minutes.
16th August.
At 7.15 a.m. resumed our march on a bearing 68 degrees, through
well-wooded country till 9.35, when we ascended a fine grassy hill of
trap-rock. From this hill several of a similar character were visible to
the southward, while to the north numerous large dry salt lakes or
marshes occupied the valley along the south-eastern declivity of which we
had travelled for the last two days; the course was then 56 degrees,
through scattered forest, with much underwood and a little grass. At noon
struck the shore of one of the lakes, the bank being composed of gypsum
and red sand, in some parts twenty feet high; following the shore of the
lake to the east till 1.15 p.m., again resumed a course 56 degrees
through dense thickets of wattle (acacia), with patches of gum forest and
cypress, the soil a red sandy loam devoid of smaller vegetation; at 5.0
halted for the night.
Latitude by observation 30 degrees 21 minutes 40 seconds; longitude 119
degrees 11 minutes.
WHIRLWINDS. RED SAND.
17th August.
At 6.30 a.m. recommenced our journey 50 degrees; at 6.55 crossed a narrow
swampy patch of salicornia trending east and west; altered the course to
63 degrees, and at 7.35 crossed a deep watercourse trending to the south;
at 8.15 ascended a trap hill with a few granite rocks at the foot, among
which we found a small pool of rainwater, at which we halted for three
hours to refresh our horses, and then proceeded 40 degrees till 2.20
p.m., when we arrived at the foot of the highest hill in the range for
which we had been steering. Leaving our horses, we ascended the hill,
which was composed of trap-rock, and did not exceed 300 feet in height
above the general level of the country. From the summit several similar
ranges of trap hills were visible, extending from north to
east-south-east; to the south-east the country appeared to be a level
sandy desert without the least appearance of vegetation, while to the
west and north the smokes of many native fires were visible in the
distance. The extremely level character of the country between the ranges
to the east and north, and the immense columns of red sand or dust which
were raised by whirlwinds to a height of 200 to 500 feet, gave but little
hope of finding water in that direction. Returning to our horses at 4.20,
steered 350 degrees about three and a half miles to a small patch of
grass which had been observed from the hill, which was named Mount
Jackson. There was a small watercourse through the patch of grass, but no
water, and the country was suffering from prolonged drought.
Latitude by observation 30 degrees 12 minutes 28 seconds; longitude 119
degrees 16 minutes.
18th August.
After six hours' ineffectual search for water, we were compelled to
return to the water passed early on the previous day.
19th August.
Left the bivouac at 7.20 a.m. and steered 275 degrees through a scattered
gum forest with much underwood; at 9.55 came on a dry salt lagoon of
irregular form, which was crossed at 10.20; passing a native well among
flat granite rocks, the country rose gradually till 11.50, when we
arrived at a hill crowned by steep white sandstone cliffs twenty to
thirty feet high. The course was then changed to north, through dense
thickets, till 12.20 p.m., when we again turned west through a
well-wooded country, and at 3.0 camped on a high granite hill with some
patches of grass and abundance of rainwater in the hollows of the rocks.
Latitude 30 degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds; longitude 118 degrees 55
minutes.
20th August.
At 7.30 a.m. resumed a westerly course through dense thickets of acacia
and melaleuca, and at 5.15 p.m. bivouacked in a small patch of grass and
a small pool of rainwater on a granite rock.
Latitude 30 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds; longitude 118 degrees 35
minutes.
21st August.
At 7.45 a.m. started on a course 320 degrees over an undulating country
with dense thickets and patches of cypress and gum forest; at 4.30 p.m.
bivouacked near a small hole in a rock with about two gallons of
rainwater remaining in it.
Latitude 30 degrees 5 minutes 43 seconds; longitude 118 degrees 22
seconds.
22nd August.
At 7.35 a.m. resumed a west course through a succession of thickets, gum
forest, and scrub; at 12.30 p.m. observed a granite hill bearing 315
degrees; made for the hill, and finding some excellent grass around a
native well, at 2.15 camped.
Latitude 30 degrees 3 minutes 36 seconds; longitude 118 degrees 8
minutes.
23rd August.
Started at 7.40 a.m. in a direction 320 degrees, over thinly-timbered
scrubby country, which gradually improved and became grassy; at 10.5
altered the course to 336 degrees, and at 1.15 p.m. reached the summit of
a granite hill from which a series of dry lakes, or salt marshes, were
visible in a wide valley trending to the north-east. A very remarkable
hill bore 316 degrees, about 35 miles distant. Steering in the direction
of this hill, found the country covered with almost impenetrable scrub of
acacia. At 4.20 halted at the foot of a high sandstone cliff, where some
deep holes in the rock retained a small quantity of rainwater.
Latitude 29 degrees 51 minutes; longitude 119 degrees 55 minutes.
24th August.
Left the bivouac at 7.35 a.m. steering 312 degrees; passed over a nearly
level country timbered with cypress and eucalyptus, with patches of
acacia thicket; at 2.45 p.m. halted at a deep waterhole in a flat granite
rock.
Latitude 29 degrees 42 minutes 31 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 41
minutes.
EXTENSIVE SALT MARSHES.
25th August.
At 7.30 a.m. resumed our journey on the same course as yesterday, and at
9.15 came on an extensive flat covered with salicornia, which formed the
margin of an immense salt marsh or dry lake, extending to the north-east
and south-west to the horizon, but narrowing to about three miles at the
point we came to it. It was decided to attempt crossing at this place,
and, after travelling for an hour across the salicornia flat, reached the
bare salt marsh. This at first seemed firm; but, after half-a-mile, the
hard crust of salt and gypsum, which formed the surface, gave way and
three of the horses were bogged almost at the same time. After a long
ineffectual struggle to extricate themselves they were quite exhausted,
and we waded through the mud to the opposite shore, a distance of
half-a-mile, and cut some small trees, and with them, combined with
tether ropes and saddle-bags, formed two hurdles or platforms twelve feet
long and two feet wide. These with much difficulty were taken to the
horses, and by placing them alternately in front of each animal, worked
them over the soft mud, and after six hours of severe exertion succeeded
in reaching the firm ground. The hard salt crust, though apparently
strong, having once been broken, its edges gave way like thin ice. After
reaching the ground, which was dry enough to bear the weight of the
horses, we had to travel about three miles through soft dust of white
gypsum, in which we sank from one to two feet, but at length reached a
large granite rock, at the foot of which there was a little grass and on
the rock some small pools of rainwater.
Latitude 29 degrees 37 minutes 30 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 38
minutes.
26th August.
From the summit of the rock we had an extensive view, the lake extending
twelve miles east, fifteen miles to the south and west, eight miles to
the north and to the north-east, only bounded by the horizon. Shallow
pools of brine, varying from one to three miles in diameter, with
low-wooded and high bare granite islets, were scattered over this vast
area of white mud gypsum and salt. At 8.35 a.m. started in a southerly
direction along the shore of the lake in the hope of turning its west
side; at 10.40 altered the course to 221 degrees; and at 12.30 p.m.
camped on a grassy granite hill, about a mile from the lake.
Latitude 29 degrees 47 minutes 13 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 36
minutes.
27th August.
Steering a general course 200 degrees from 7.40 a.m. to 8.40, again
reached the shore of the lake, followed it south-east till 9.45, then 80
degrees till 12.15 p.m., when we halted for one and a half hours under a
very remarkable solitary gum-tree; we then steered 173 degrees till 2.20;
then 204 degrees till 3.30, when we left the lake, which trended to the
west, and, steering 250 degrees till 5.5, camped at a native well in a
small grassy valley. Some good open grassy flats were passed during the
day and a large number of wild turkeys were seen.
Latitude 29 degrees 59 minutes 4 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 39
minutes.
28th August.
Starting at 7.35 a.m. in a west-north-west course, at 8.45 passed several
small dry salt lagoons; at 9.0 ascended a granite hill, from the summit
of which it was discovered that further progress in this direction was
impracticable, and that we were on a peninsula, as the lake still trended
south to the horizon. We therefore turned east, and at 11.35 came on the
southern extension of the eastern branch of the lake; followed it nearly
east till noon, then north-east and north-north-east till 1.0 p.m.; then
17 degrees, leaving the lake and crossing extensive open downs till 2.5,
when a small dry salt lake was passed, and we entered thickets of acacia,
which changed to gum and cypress forest; at 3.0 came to a rich grassy
hill, then thickets and grassy patches, and at 4.0 reached the summit of
a lofty granite hill and had an extensive view over the country. On the
north side of the hill found a native well and some good grass, where we
camped.
Latitude 29 degrees 45 minutes 15 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 46
minutes.
GRANITE HILLS AND GRASSY COUNTRY.
29th August.
At 7.35 a.m. left the bivouac and steered 30 degrees through thickets; at
8.30 crossed our track of the 24th, and at 9.15 passed a salt marsh
trending north-west and south-east; at 12.25 p.m. altered the course to
north till 1.0; then, 37 degrees, ascended a granite hill, on which we
found a few shallow pools of rainwater; then north till 4.0 p.m., and
bivouacked in a grassy patch with a small hollow containing a little
muddy water.
Latitude 29 degrees 30 minutes 46 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 51
minutes.
30th August.
Resumed our journey at 7.35 a.m., steering north over a level country
with patches of brushwood and grass; at 10.35 ascended a steep grassy
ridge, and found ourselves at the north-east extremity of the immense
salt lake which for five days had baffled our attempts to proceed north.
The lake, which was named Lake Moore, was at this part about five miles
wide, and extended to the horizon to the south-west; to the north and
west there were many bare granite hills; changing the course to 328
degrees, at 12.55 p.m. camped at a grassy granite hill.
Latitude 29 degrees 17 minutes 56 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 47
minutes.
31st August.
At 7.30 a.m. steered 328 degrees for two hours through thickets of
acacia, cypress, and gum; then entered a grassy country with jam-wattle;
at 10.35 passed a granite hill and altered the course to 357 degrees, and
at 11.30 ascended a high granite hill, from which many similar hills were
visible to the north and east, and a remarkable range of trap hills about
thirty miles to the north-north-east; also some smaller trap ranges to
the north-west, from ten to thirty miles distant. At noon steered 302
degrees towards the nearest of these ranges, traversing a level plain
with brushwood and grass; at 4.45 crossed a small dry watercourse
trending west, and at 5.5 bivouacked on a granite hill, with some grass
and a fine pool of rainwater in a hollow of the rock.
Latitude 29 degrees 3 minutes 14 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 31
minutes.
1st September.
Resumed our route at 7.45 a.m.; at 8.45 reached the hills we had been
steering for; from the summit there was an extensive view: to the north
and west were many trap hills and several dry salt lakes; to the north
the country was level for several miles, and then rose into a low range
of granite hills, covered with brushwood and grass; at 9.20 steered 230
degrees over level country with dense thickets of acacia; at noon the
country became more open; at 1.0 passed some small dry salt lagoons, the
country more open and with some grass, and at 3.0 camped at the foot of a
granite hill, with good grass and some water oozing out of a cleft in the
rock.
Latitude 28 degrees 50 minutes 44 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 20
minutes.
2nd September.
Leaving the bivouac at 7.40 a.m., steered 330 degrees over a succession
of grassy granite hills, with small watercourse trending to the west; at
12.40 p.m. came on a party of four aboriginals, who hastily decamped,
leaving their spears and shields behind in the hurry of retreat; they
appeared to be of rather small stature, and somewhat darker in colour
than the blacks near the Swan River. Observing a remarkable hill bearing
312 degrees about twenty miles distant, steered for it; the country
became more level, with grass and brushwood; at 3.5 turned north to a
steep granite hill, crossing a dry watercourse thirty yards wide and
sixteen feet deep trending north-west; at 4.40 halted in a gully in the
granite range, and obtained water by digging among the rocks.
Latitude 28 degrees 34 minutes 9 seconds; longitude 117 degrees 2
minutes.
3rd September.
Started at 8.0 a.m., steering towards the hill seen yesterday, and which
now bore 307 degrees. The country was nearly a dead level, with a few
small dry watercourses trending south-west; the soil a red loam,
producing some grass and small acacias; at 10.50 came on an extensive
flat covered with salicornia, which extended to the base of the hill, the
summit of which was reached at 12.25 p.m.; from this position the flat or
marsh appeared to extend fifteen miles to the north-east, a branch also
to the north-west, in which direction the water seemed to trend, though
the dip of the country, if any, was so slight as to render it uncertain.
To the north a range of trap hills, five to ten miles distant,
intercepted the view. Having completed observations at 2.10, steered 300
degrees along the foot of a range of trap hills; at 3.50 passed a dry
salt lake on our right, and at 5.15 bivouacked on the side of a trap
hill, among some fine oat-grass growing on calcareous tufa. From the
summit of the hill we could see salt marshes continuing in a north-west
direction for many miles; all the hills within twenty miles were of a
trap formation, and therefore gave no prospect of obtaining water, the
soil being loose and the rock full of fissures; hitherto we seldom had
found water except on or near granite rocks, which serve to collect the
rainwater of even slight showers.
Latitude 28 degrees 24 minutes 20 seconds; longitude 116 degrees 42
minutes.
SCARCITY OF WATER. TURN TO THE WEST.
4th September.
As the horses had been twenty-four hours without water, and there was no
prospect of obtaining any to the north or west, no rain having fallen for
the past month, it was deemed advisable to return to the last bivouac,
and then, by a westerly course, attempt to make the sources of the Hutt
or Arrowsmith rivers, the mouths of which had been discovered by Captain
Grey on the coast opposite our position. Accordingly, after six hours'
ride, we got back to the well at the bivouac of the 2nd.
5th September.
At 7.50 a.m. left the bivouac, and, steering 240 degrees, at 8.15 crossed
the dry watercourse trending west; at 11.0 ascended the ridge bounding
the valley; at noon found a small pool of water in a gully descending to
the westward; after this traversed a continuous thicket of acacia with
narrow strips of cypress forest, and bivouacked at 5.50 without water.
Latitude 29 degrees 47 minutes 15 seconds; longitude 116 degrees 41
minutes.
6th September.
At 6.45 a.m., proceeding west, ascended a granite hill, near the top of
which we found a native well, where we halted at 7.30. Having watered the
horses and breakfasted, at 9.30 resumed our journey over granite hills,
covered with brushwood and cypress with a few grassy patches; at 11.10
passed a native well; altered the course to west-south-west, crossing
three small watercourses trending north-west; and at 1.15 p.m. halted at
the foot of a bare granite hill, on the top of which there was a fine
pool of rainwater in a shallow basin of the rock.
Latitude 28 degrees 50 minutes 51 seconds; longitude 116 degrees 29
minutes.
7th September.
Started at 7.15 a.m. on a course 255 degrees through acacia thickets; at
10.5 crossed a narrow strip of salt marsh, which spread out into dry salt
lakes to the south; after this the country was grassy till 11.30, when we
entered a dense thicket of acacia, melaleuca, cypress, and eucalypti, the
ground gradually rising till 4.0 p.m., and then descending till 5.25,
when we crossed a small dry watercourse trending south; at 6.10
bivouacked in a gum forest without water or grass, though a large flight
of white cockatoos which roosted near seemed to indicate that water was
not far distant.
Latitude 28 degrees 58 minutes 14 seconds; longitude 116 degrees 6
minutes.
8th September.
Leaving the bivouac at 7.0 am steered west; at 7.20 came to a grassy
granite hill, then west-north-west to another hill, where we halted for
half an hour to look for water, but being unsuccessful, again resumed a
westerly course through acacia thickets, alternating with grassy gum
forest, till noon, when the soil changed from a red loam to ironstone
gravel; grass disappeared and was replaced by scrub; the country was much
broken and continued to rise till 4.0 p.m., when it began to descend
rapidly till 4.30, when we came to a small watercourse trending south;
following it down for half a mile, found a small pool of water and some
grass, and halted for the night, this being the only water seen for
nearly fifty miles.
Latitude 28 degrees 58 minutes 50 seconds; longitude 115 degrees 45
minutes.
DISCOVER TWO SEAMS OF COAL.
9th September.
At 7.30 a.m. resumed a westerly course through grassy gum forest; at 8.0
a.m. crossed a large watercourse trending south, with many shallow pools
of water; the country then became scrubby; at 9.10 crossed a granite
ridge and entered a rich grassy valley timbered with eucalypti and
raspberry-jam wattle, a small watercourse trending north. The ridge on
the west side of the valley was destitute of timber, but covered with
dense wattle brush; at 10.0 a.m. altered the course to 305 degrees, and
at 10.35 came on the head of a small stream-bed with pools of water;
following it west-north-west, at 11.30 it was joined by a running stream
four yards wide, the water being brackish, and trended to the south-west;
left it and steered west over an open scrubby country; at 12.30 p.m.
entered a dense thicket of eucalypti and acacia, the soil being formed of
fragments of granite and trap; at 1.0 p.m. entered a deep valley by an
abrupt descent, and found ourselves once more on the banks of the
brackish stream, which was much enlarged, and running through a narrow
grassy flat backed by high sandstone cliffs from 80 to 100 feet high.
Continuing our course along the river west till 1.55 p.m., when it turned
north, and at 2.20 p.m. north-west; at 3.0 p.m. the banks of the stream
became very high, and stratified in a remarkable manner, the lower rocks
in thin beds dipping to the east, while the superincumbent rocks of red
sandstone were horizontal. We therefore entered the bed of the river to
examine it, and found two seams of coal--one five feet thick and the
other about six feet thick--between beds of sandstone and shale. Having
pitched the tent and tethered the horses, we commenced to collect
specimens of the various strata, and succeeded in cutting out five or six
hundredweight of coal with the tomahawk, and in a short time had the
satisfaction of seeing the first fire of Western Australian coal burning
cheerfully in front of the camp, this being the first discovery of coal
in the western part of the Continent.
Latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes 10 seconds; longitude 115 degrees 30
minutes.
10th September.
At 7.20 a.m. left the camp and followed the river downwards on a general
course 250 degrees; at 7.40 crossed to the left bank, the valley opening
out and the soil improving, being formed by the decomposition of soft
shales, which contain much gypsum in fine crystals. Oat and rye grasses
were abundant, with plenty of saltbush; at 9.10 crossed to the right
bank, and steered 220 degrees to an abrupt headland on the north side of
the valley, which was here about two miles wide; the soil a stiff brown
loam, with rounded fragments of granite, flinty trap, and quartz,
resembling in appearance the French millstone burr; the grass improved,
being chiefly of perennial species. After a halt of twenty minutes to
take bearings from the hill, at 9.40 steered 200 degrees, and again
crossed the river at 11.15, and altered the course to 235 degrees; the
grassy country having a breadth of two miles. At noon ascended a sandy
ridge with a few gum-trees on the top; there the valley closed in, the
grassy flats below being only half a mile wide and backed by extensive
elevated sandy downs, covered with heath and short scrub. The course of
the river was about 230 degrees. At 1.35 p.m. ascended a remarkable red
sandstone hill, with a table summit and steep rocks on all sides nearly
blocking up the valley; at 2.15 p.m. resumed a general course of 242
degrees along the bank of the river, and at 4.5 bivouacked in a rich
grassy flat thinly timbered with white-barked eucalyptus.
Latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes 42 seconds; longitude 115 degrees 15
minutes.
REACH THE SEA-COAST.
11th September.
Started at 7.40 a.m., and, steering 240 degrees, crossed the river, left
the grassy flats, and entered the sandy downs; at 8.45 ascended a steep
sandstone cliff, and from the top had a distant view of the sea; the
river about one and a half miles to the south, where a large branch
joined it from the east about two miles below the bivouac. At 9.35
steered 267 degrees over open sandy downs, and at 10.35 struck the river,
running north through beautiful grassy flats timbered with York and
white-gums and wattles; there were many fine pools of water, which
appeared to be permanent. After an unsuccessful attempt to cross the
river, followed it northerly till 11.0; then west-north-west till 11.20,
and then west-south-west till 11.45, when we found a practicable crossing
to the left bank, and, steering west by south, ascended a sandy limestone
ridge; then on a west-south-west course followed the valley of the river
down to its mouth, which was reached at 3.40 p.m. The entrance of the
river was choked up with sand and rocks, and not passable for even small
boats. This river appears to be the Irwin River of Captain Grey, as this
spot is only one and a half miles to the south of the position assigned
to it on Arrowsmith's map of this part of the coast. At 4.30 left the
beach and retraced our steps to where we crossed the river at 1.30, and
bivouacked at 5.50.
Latitude 29 degrees 15 minutes 10 seconds; longitude 114 degrees 59
minutes.
12th September.
At 7.50 a.m. resumed our journey up the river, steering north-east till
8.25; then east along the north bank, through rich grassy flats timbered
with York gum. At 10.20 left the river and entered the sandy downs; at
10.30 crossed a small stream with some fine springs; at 11.0 changed the
course to east by south; at noon altered the course to 83 degrees,
crossing the river at 12.50 p.m., where it is joined by the east branch,
which is of equal size with the northern one; followed the east branch up
through wide grassy flats till 2.0, and camped.
The country consists of elevated sandy downs covered with heathy bushes
and a few small banksia trees, it being only on the alluvial flats of the
river that there is any grass or good soil. Large flocks of
cockatoos--white, black with white tails, and black with red tails--came
to water near the camp; some were shot, also a turkey, the flesh of which
was extremely bitter and scarcely eatable. Several kangaroos were seen on
the sandy downs.
Latitude 29 degrees 11 minutes 20 seconds; longitude 115 degrees 18
minutes.
13th September.
At 7.55 a.m. left the Irwin River and steered a course 160 degrees, over
open sandy downs of considerable elevation; at 11.45 halted for half an
hour and shot a kangaroo, which proved a welcome addition to the
commissariat; at 1.30 p.m. changed the course to 142 degrees, and at 2.30
came to a running stream three yards wide. This we assumed to be the
Arrowsmith River of Captain Grey, and as there was little prospect of
finding water farther on, we bivouacked, though there was only a little
grass close to the bank of the stream and the rest of the country covered
with short scrub.
Latitude 29 degrees 27 minutes 9 seconds.
14th September.
Left the bivouac at 8.35 a.m., and steered 160 degrees over sandy downs
with ridges of red sandstone till 3.0 p.m., when the course was altered
to 220 degrees, following down a shallow valley; at 4.0 turned
west-south-west, and at 5.15 bivouacked in a swampy spot with some grass;
obtaining water by digging in the sand.
Latitude 29 degrees 48 minutes 10 seconds; longitude 115 degrees 32
minutes.
15th September.
Leaving the bivouac at 8.0 a.m., steered 214 degrees over scrubby country
with patches of gum forest; at 9.0 turned to 160 degrees, crossed a
country of sand and ironstone of considerable elevation; at 3.30 p.m.
altered the course to 170 degrees, and followed down a scrubby valley
till 5.0; then 115 degrees for half an hour, and came to a native well in
a patch of York gum-trees, where we camped. The last three hours our
progress was scarcely six miles, as one of the horses knocked up.
Latitude 30 degrees 10 minutes; longitude 115 degrees 39 minutes.
STEER SOUTH OVER SANDY DOWNS.
16th September.
As there was no grass for the horses, we were compelled to push on our
journey, and at 7.20 a.m. steered 160 degrees; the country was more
broken up by valleys, the soil sand and ironstone, with heathy scrub,
banksia, and grass trees (xanthorrhoea) with a few patches of white-gum
forest; at 10.30 steered 138 degrees towards a high summit, distant
twelve miles. The horse again knocked up, but by relieving him of his
load, which was transferred to the other horses, succeeded in driving him
a few miles further. At 2.20 p.m. changed the course to 180 degrees, and
entered a level sandy piece of country, bounded on all sides by hills; at
3.40 altered the course to south-west; at 5.0 had to abandon the weak
horse and continue our route in search of water; at 5.30 passed a small
salt lake with a little grass on the margin; at 6.0, finding the country
getting worse, returned to the salt lake and camped on the western side.
Latitude 30 degrees 27 minutes 19 seconds; longitude 115 degrees 47
minutes.
17th September.
After digging in about twenty different places around the lake, at length
found fresh water, and then went back for the knocked-up horse, and with
some difficulty got him to the well, where we decided to rest the horses
this and the following day, before encountering the inhospitable sandy
region to the southwards.
18th September.
One of the party made a short excursion to the west of the plain, and in
about three miles reached the hills, which appeared very barren and
scrubby; but after crossing the first ridge, the country was timbered
with York and red gum and a large species of acacia, producing abundance
of gum; the soil a red loam, producing some grass and abundance of the
everlasting flowers and warran, or native yam. After penetrating this
good country four miles returned to the camp, having shot a kangaroo and
ten cockatoos.
19th September.
Leaving the camp at 8.5 a.m., steered 160 degrees, and soon ascended the
sandy downs, which were destitute of trees, except a few banksia and
floribunda; at 11.45 crossed a valley trending to the west; at 1.15 p.m.
observed a range of wooded hills to the east and south; altered the
course towards a remarkable gorge which bore 129 degrees; at 3.30 entered
a gum forest, and at 3.50 came to a large stream-bed with many pools of
water; followed it down south, and camped at 4.20.
Latitude 30 degrees 42 minutes 39 seconds; longitude 116 degrees.
REACH THE MOORE RIVER.
20th September.
Crossed the watercourse, which seemed to be a branch of the Moore River,
and steered 163 degrees from 7.30 a.m. till 8.20, when the country
improved, with grassy hills and brown loam, with fragments of granite and
trap rock; the timber York-gum and jam-wattle. This description of
country continued till 12.15 p.m., when scrub again prevailed on
ironstone hills timbered with white-gum; at 2.20 entered a valley of
better character, with quartz and granite rocks. After crossing several
rocky ridges, at 3.20 reached the main branch of the Moore River, which
we crossed, and camped. This was the first place where the poisonous
gastrolobium was observed.
Latitude 31 degrees 39 seconds; longitude 116 degrees 13 minutes.
21st September.
At 7.30 a.m. followed the river upwards on a bearing of 130 degrees; at
8.0 passed a deserted sheep-station, the river coming from the north;
continued our course over broken ironstone ridges, timbered with
white-gum; at 10.0 the country became more level and sandy, and at 11.45
struck the road from Toodyay to Victoria Plains; followed the road
southerly till 4.5 p.m., and camped at a small spring.
Latitude 31 degrees 14 minutes 19 seconds; longitude 116 degrees 34
minutes.
CAPTAIN GREY'S REPORT OF GOOD COUNTRY CONFIRMED.
22nd September.
This morning an hour's ride brought us to Bolgart Spring, after an
absence of forty-seven days, during which we had travelled 953 miles,
traversing three degrees of latitude and nearly four and a half of
longitude.
The discovery of coal and country available for settlement on the coast
to the north of Swan River was deemed to be of such importance that the
Government dispatched Lieutenant Helpman in the colonial schooner
Champion to procure a sufficient quantity of the coal to admit of its
being practically tested as to quality, and also to ascertain what
facilities existed for its conveyance to a port for shipment. A volunteer
party, consisting of Lieutenant Irby, Dr. Meekleham, Messrs. Gregory and
Hazlewood, accompanied Lieutenant Helpman to Champion Bay, now the site
of Geraldton, and thence by land to the coal-seam on the Irwin River, a
distance of ninety miles, and brought down about half a ton of coal to
the vessel. This coal, though of fair quality and suitable for steam
purposes, proved, however, to be so remote from any suitable port for
shipment that it has hitherto not been available for commercial purposes.
The primary object of the voyage having been attained, it was considered
desirable to avail of the opportunity to examine the country to the
northward and ascertain its capabilities for settlement; for though
Captain, now Sir George Grey, had seen some good country on his journey
along the coast from Gantheaume Bay to Swan River, in 1839, Captain
Stokes, who landed from the Beagle subsequently and ascended Wizard Peak
about twelve miles inland, had distinctly negatived the existence of any
country capable of occupation, though, as an illustration of the
difficulty of ascertaining the real capabilities of country by partial
and hurried inspection, it may be observed that this has since become one
of the most prosperous districts of Western Australia in regard to its
pastoral, agricultural, and mining industries.
For the purpose of making this examination of the country, Messrs. A.C.
Gregory, H.C. Gregory, and Lieutenant Irby, taking three horses and three
days' provisions, left Champion Bay on the 20th December, the following
being a copy of the journal:--
20th December, 1846.
At 6.20 a.m. left the bivouac and followed the shore of Champion Bay
about a mile northerly; then steered 87 degrees over a scrubby country;
at 7.20 crossed the Chapman River; and at 8.0, being a quarter of a mile
north from Mount Fairfax, altered the course to 66 degrees, the country
being thinly covered with wattle scrub and some grass; at 8.45 crossed a
large branch of the Chapman with several small pools of water in the bed;
the country beyond was more scrubby and the soil gravelly; at 9.0 changed
the course to 18 degrees, and at 9.20 again crossed the Chapman River
just below a pool of apparently permanent water; at 9.50 crossed a
granite ridge, beyond which the country improved, with many large patches
of grass to the eastward; at 10.20 ascended a high flat-topped hill of
red sandstone resting on granite, which proved to be the eastern point of
Moresby's Flat-topped Range. From this hill Mount Fairfax and Wizard Hill
were visible to the east; grassy hills rose gradually from the Chapman
River for seven or eight miles; steering 10 degrees over grassy country,
the soil was composed of detritus of granite and trap rocks; at 11.0 came
on a large party of natives, some of whom accompanied us for about a
mile, pointing out places where we should find water. At noon turned to
the north-east and entered an extensive valley with some patches of
grass, but not generally of a good character; at 12.30 p.m. crossed a
small watercourse trending west; followed it about half a mile, and then
steered north-west over scrubby flats till 1.0, when we struck a small
stream-bed with small pools of water, and halted till 1.20, and then
followed up the stream to the north till 3.0, when we bivouacked.
21st December.
At 6.35 a.m. steered north over a hilly country with scrub, grass,
York-gum, and wattle--the prevailing rocks red sandstone, quartz, and
granite; at 8.30 crossed a stream-bed with pools of brackish water
trending east, and at 8.50 entered a good grassy country which appeared
to extend ten to twelve miles to the east and north--clumps of York-gum,
jam-wattle, and sandalwood were observed on some of the hills. After
crossing several small watercourses, at 9.45 ascended an elevated sandy
tableland covered with coarse scrub; and at 10.35, not seeing any
prospect of better country, changed the course to west, and following
down a deep gully, at 11.7 came to a small pool of salt water; following
the watercourse south-south-west, at 11.25 came to a small hole dug by
the natives, in which the water was fresh, though the pools above and
below were salt. Halting till nearly 1.0 p.m., resumed a westerly course,
crossing several deep grassy valleys trending south; at 1.35 steered 211
degrees over a hilly, quartz, and granite country with very good grass;
at 2.30 again came on the stream-bed, the country improved and
well-grassed, with scattered jam and black wattle trees as far as the
country was visible; at 3.50 the stream was joined by a branch from the
east, and following it to the west-north-west till 5.0, bivouacked in the
bed of the stream, water being obtained by digging in the sand.
22nd December.
At 6.35 a.m. steered 220 degrees over a fine grassy country; at 7.0
ascended a small ironstone hill, from which we observed a deep valley
trending to the south-west; to the north and west the country was open
and grassy for twelve miles, presenting at one view fifty or sixty
thousand acres of fine sheep pasture. Continuing a south-west course over
granite country with some good grass, but not equal to that seen the
previous day, at 8.0 crossed a small stream-bed, which we assumed to be
the Bowes River of Captain Grey; we ascended steep limestone hills on the
west bank, and from the summit observed the large white sand patch on
Point Moore bearing 170 degrees; turning south three-quarters of a mile,
crossed the Bowes River at its mouth, which was choked up with sand; we
then steered south-east with the intention of following Captain Grey's
route to Champion Bay; but, after traversing sandy downs with limestone
rocks for four miles, one of the horses became so footsore that we
descended a deep ravine to the sea-beach, which was followed southerly,
and after crossing the dry mouth of the Buller and Chapman Rivers,
reached the landing place in Champion Bay at 1.10 p.m.
On the 23rd the party and horses were shipped on board the Champion and
reached Fremantle on the 28th.
***
THE SETTLERS' EXPEDITION TO THE NORTHWARD FROM PERTH, UNDER MR.
ASSISTANT-SURVEYOR A.C. GREGORY.
1848.
As the stock belonging to the settlers on the Swan River had increased to
the full extent of the pastoral capabilities of the known available
country, it became of pressing importance to push forward the exploration
of the Colony of West Australia, and accordingly, in 1848 the
Surveyor-General, Captain Roe, conducted an expedition to the south-east
of Swan River, while the settlers organised one to proceed to the north,
and made application to the Government to grant the services of Mr.
Assistant-Surveyor A.C. Gregory as the leader of the party.
THE SETTLERS' EXPEDITION TO THE NORTHWARD FROM PERTH, UNDER MR.
ASSISTANT-SURVEYOR A.C. GREGORY.
We could not do justice to the enterprise and exertions of the gentlemen
who discovered the new tract of good land to the northward in any other
way than by giving Mr. Augustus Gregory's Journal entire:--
INSTRUCTIONS TO LEADER OF THE EXPEDITION AND ITS OBJECTS.
Colonial Secretary's Office,
Perth, August 28, 1848.
SIR,
I am directed by the Governor to inform you that you have been appointed
to direct the exploring expedition about to proceed northwards on account
of the zeal, energy, and enterprising spirit that have been exhibited by
you on other occasions, and called into action with credit to yourself
and advantage to the public interests. The party under your direction, it
is intended, should proceed northward as high as the Gascoyne River. (The
Gascoyne River flows into Shark Bay, in latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes
South.) It is advisable to approach that river from the eastward, about
100 miles from the coast, after proceeding in a north-easterly and
northerly direction from the country abreast of Champion Bay, it being
desirable that part of your route which lies farthest in the interior
country should be first accomplished, in order to avail yourself of the
best chance of finding water.
You will examine that river as far as it may be practicable to do, with
the view of tracing its course; of ascertaining, if possible, the nature
of the bar at the mouth of it, and the question of its being practicable
for boats, to what distance from the bar, and the nature of the soil in
the vicinity of either bank.
After having examined thus the Gascoyne River you will proceed in a
southerly direction and examine the river, as yet unnamed, about forty
miles farther south, that flows into Shark's Bay, the mouth of which was
seen by Captain Grey, and is placed by him at Point Long.
Should you proceed along the sea-shore for any distance you will pay as
much attention as your limited means will allow you to do to the
peculiarities of the coast, and of any estuaries, creeks, or roadsteads
that may present themselves.
You will bear in mind that the primary object of this expedition is the
examination of a new tract of unknown country for practical purposes, by
practical men--that, in fact, the discovery of new land of an available
kind for pasture has become a thing to be desired, of paramount
importance, and an object in the attainment of which the interests and
perhaps the fate of this colony depend.
You will thus conduct your expedition with the view of promoting this
principal object to the best of your ability. But it is hardly needful to
observe to you that this chief object may be promoted and attained
without neglecting to observe the geographical, geological, and
mineralogical features of the country you pass through; its
productions--animal and vegetable; and the character, dialects, and
customs, to some extent, of the aboriginal tribes you may fall in with.
You have been so frequently employed in exploring expeditions, though of
minor importance perhaps to the present, that you must be well aware it
is no less impolitic than cruel to come into actual collision, wantonly,
unadvisedly, and maliciously, with the natives; and, on the contrary,
that it is no less humane than politic to leave no angry recollections of
white people, where the footsteps of travellers, however few and far
between, must be expected to follow yours.
Should your route, either in proceeding on the expedition or returning,
be in the direction of that part of the Irwin River where for the
discovery of coal the colony is indebted to yourself and brothers, it
would be desirable that you should devote a short time to the examination
of the locality where it was first found; to excavation, to some moderate
extent, in the vicinity of the veins of coal of most promise; and, above
all, to the ascertainment of the fact if coal crops out, or if there be
in the soil any indications of it between the place where the mine was
discovered by you in 1846 and the seashore, in that intervening space of
about thirty-eight or forty miles, or to the northward of it in the
direction of Shark's Bay, where Dr. von Somner thought the coal-seam of
the Irwin might again make its appearance.
In the event of accident, occasioning loss of provisions and beasts of
burden, and a necessity arising for a prompt return to the settled
districts, you will bear in mind the causes of impediment on the march
which proved so disastrous to Captain Grey's party on its return from
Gantheaume Bay; the want of vigilance at night manifested in another
expedition in the murder of Lieutenant Eyre's European companion; and the
want of caution, forgetfulness of the nature of barbarians, and the
facilities for ambush afforded by a wilderness of trees and jungle, that
have led to injuries fatal to life, as in the case of Mr. Cunningham in
Sir Thomas Mitchell's expedition, and of two of his companions at another
time; and in some instances, as in those of Captain Stokes and Captain
Grey, that have led to results all but fatal to the explorers and their
expeditions; injuries suddenly and unexpectedly inflicted on individuals
straggling from the main body of their party, or venturing considerable
distances in advance of it.
You are to bear in mind that it might be of some advantage throughout
your expedition to keep a register of the depths at which water has been
found by you, and of those depths to which you have penetrated in vain
for it.
It will be requisite that you should ascertain the course of rivers of
any magnitude, and direction of chains of high land, that you may meet
with, and follow the same to some extent--at least wherever appearances
may lead you to expect improvement of soil, a richer country, or one
indicating mineral productions.
In the event of occurrences of unexpected disasters, impediments, and
unavoidable accidents, arising from loss of provisions or of horses, or
of any injury to the health or strength of the party, rendering it
utterly impracticable for the expedition to proceed as high northward as
Gascoyne River, your discretion then supplying whatever you may be
unprovided for in your instructions, you will explore as far as it is
possible for you to do, on your return, the country north of the settled
districts of York and Toodyay; so that something of utility may be
accomplished, and the great object for which this expedition was prepared
may not be wholly frustrated.
I am further to add that His Excellency's best wishes accompany your
party, and that the success of the expedition, and the return of all
engaged in it in health and safety, will be hailed by him with very
lively satisfaction.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
R.R. MADDEN,
Colonial Secretary.
To A.C. Gregory, Esquire, Perth.
...
GENERAL REPORT OF JOURNEY.
Perth, November 20, 1848.
SIR,
I have the honour to transmit, for the information of His Excellency the
Governor, the following outline of the proceedings of the exploring party
to the northward which His Excellency has been pleased to place under my
direction. I regret that we have not succeeded in reaching the Gascoyne
River, which your instructions for my guidance pointed out as the
ultimate object of the expedition; but I trust that our attempts to
render the expedition serviceable to the colony have not proved
unsuccessful, especially as the result has been the discovery of several
fine portions of good grassy land near Champion Bay, which, with the more
minute examination of the country in the vicinity which had been
previously discovered, will render available a tract of pasturage
sufficiently extensive to relieve the present overstocked districts; the
estimated quantity of land suitable for depasturing sheep being about
225,000 acres, exclusive of 100,000 acres on the Irwin, the greater
portion of which, however, is better suited to agricultural purposes. The
observations I have had the opportunity of making during this journey
have confirmed my previous opinion, that, could the party have started in
July instead of September, the chief obstacle to our progress--the want
of water--might have been avoided; and although there would have been
many minor difficulties to encounter, I feel assured that the same zeal
and energy which enabled my party to contend so long with the obstacles
which opposed their advance to the Gascoyne River, would have ensured
their success in a more favourable season. The gentlemen who formed my
party have my sincere thanks for their prompt and energetic co-operation
on all occasions; nor can I omit to mention the cheerful and trustworthy
conduct of private W. King of the 96th regiment. For minute details I beg
to refer my journal and the plans of my route, which I am plotting.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
A.C. Gregory,
Assistant-Surveyor.
The Honourable the Colonial Secretary, etc.
...
JOURNAL.
LEAVE THE SETTLED DISTRICTS. STAMPEDE OF HORSES.
2nd September, 1848.
Started for Toodyay, with Mr. C.F. Gregory and five horses for the
expedition to Shark's Bay; bivouacked at Worrilloo.
3rd September.
Proceeded to Toodyay, where Messrs. L. Burges, J. Walcott, and A. Bedart
joined on the 4th, bringing six horses with them. Having had the horses
shod at Ferguson's, we continued our journey to Mr. Lefroy's station,
near Bebano, which we reached on the 7th. The following day the cart,
with our provisions, etc., arrived, accompanied by private W. King.
Having obtained another horse from Mr. Lefroy, on the 9th we left
Welbing, with ten pack and two riding horses, carrying three months'
provisions, etc. Steering north by west for the first twenty miles,
generally grassy, we entered the extensive sandy plains which occupy
almost the whole country between the Moore and Irwin rivers. The rainy
season having scarcely ended, we found both water and grass for our
horses every night; and, not meeting with any serious impediments, we
reached the upper part of the Arrowsmith Brook on the 13th. Here the
country improved, and the valleys, in which the stream takes its rise,
were estimated to contain about 10,000 acres of tolerable sheep pasture.
Early the ensuing day we entered the Irwin Plains; crossing the eastern
branches of the river, we encamped, on the 15th, on the northern branch,
three-quarters of a mile below the spot where the coal was first
discovered. The Irwin Plains presented a beautiful aspect, being covered
with rich grass and vegetation; the soil is generally good; but most of
the grasses being of the annual species, would not afford good pasturage
in the summer, and in consequence they are better suited for agriculture,
while the open character of the country would render clearing for the
plough a matter of little expense. While dinner was preparing, the
horses, being herded, suddenly started off at full speed, in consequence
of a large stone rolled down by one of the party in ascending the hill.
Two of the remaining horses were immediately saddled, and Mr. Burges and
myself started to catch them; in about a mile we came up with them at the
foot of an almost perpendicular cliff; on seeing us they started off, and
scrambling up the rocks like goats, left us far behind; we did not
overtake them for several miles, when with some difficulty we captured
one, but had the mortification of losing one of the saddled horses in
exchange. Leaving the captured horse in charge of Mr. Burges, I followed
the rest; caught another after a smart ride of three miles, but it was
not till I reached the East Irwin that I could again overtake the rest,
when, favoured by the steep bank of the stream, I succeeded in securing
our truant steeds. It was now dark, and being unable to manage nine
horses by myself, I tethered several of the wildest, and started with two
of the best for the encampment ten miles distant, which, owing to the
nature of the country, I did not reach till midnight. Mr. Burges had
arrived about an hour previous with the horse first caught. Light showers
in the morning.
16th September.
Messrs. Bedart, C. Gregory, and J. Walcott started to bring in the
horses; the rest of the party was employed in repairing damages of the
harness, and at 3.0 p.m. the party returned with the horses. Slight
showers in the morning.
17th September (Sunday).
Light clouds from the south-west; thunder; rain in the evening. Read
prayers.
18th September.
Left the bivouac at 8.15 a.m., and followed upwards the main branch of
the Irwin to the north-north-east, through a steep and rocky valley, the
sandstone hills in some parts approaching the river, so as to render it
necessary to cross frequently with the pack-horses. The very level
character of the summits of these hills gives the country the appearance
of having been once a plain, through which the valley of the stream has
since been worn by the action of water; the upper stratum is a hard red
sandstone, resting on a softer rock of a sandy or clayey character,
beneath which the shales and rocks belonging to the coal formation show
themselves, lying in unconformable beds, and often at a very high angle.
At 9.25 the stream divided into two branches, that to the east being the
most considerable; at this spot the sandstone ceased, and we commenced
ascending the granite range, the direction of which was about
north-north-west. The soil was poor and stony, producing a little feed
for stock; but it could scarcely be made available, as the country is
completely covered with thickets of acacia of small growth. At 4 p.m.
bivouacked on a small watercourse running through a level grassy flat,
bounded on both sides by thickets of wattle.
SCRUBBY COUNTRY NORTH FROM THE IRWIN RIVER.
19th September.
At 8.15 a.m. steered a nearly north course, through a country of the same
description as yesterday; crossed several small gullies trending west, in
some of which a little water still remained; at 4.20 p.m. halted for the
night at a brackish pool in a small gully trending west.
20th September.
Started at 8.0 a.m., continuing a northerly course, over a similar
description of country as during the past two days, crossing three large
gullies coming from the eastward, but apparently near their source. At
3.45 halted on a large stream-bed, with a few brackish or rather salt
pools in its sandy channel, which was in some places nearly 100 yards
wide; from our encampment we observed a very remarkable peaked hill,
distant about twenty miles, and from its outline conjectured it to be
composed of the same vein of trap-rock as that which forms similar ranges
further to the eastward.
21st September.
The scarcity of water and the very level appearance of the country to the
northward of our bivouac, added to the general denseness of the thicket
of acacia and cypress, rendering a continuance of a north course
unadvisable, we steered north-west from 8.30 a.m. till noon, when we
ascended a scrubby sand ridge, from which we had an extensive view;
neither hill nor valley could be discovered to the north, east, or
west--nothing but one immense sea of dense thicket of acacia and cypress
was visible in these directions; the course was therefore changed to
west, and continuing it without much alteration over a succession of low
ridges of drifted sand, the valleys being filled with dense thickets,
until 6.20 p.m., when the approach of night compelled us to bivouac in a
small patch of gum forest, which also afforded a few scattered tufts of
grass for our horses. Although this was the lowest spot passed in a
distance of more than ten miles, it was so completely dried up and
parched that a search for water was fruitless, even by digging; the
scanty allowance of very brackish water in our kegs was therefore much
relished by the party.
22nd September.
The night having been cloudy, and a strong breeze preventing any dew, our
horses were not much refreshed; we, however, started at 7.45 a.m., and
steering nearly west till 3.15 p.m. through a succession of dense
thickets, high scrubs, and thorny bushes, we entered open sandy downs,
and changed the course to south-west, with the intention of making the
Hutt River, should we not find any water nearer, when, almost hopeless of
procuring this essential element before the next day, we unexpectedly
came to a native well in the centre of the sandy plain; here we
bivouacked at 5.40, but, from the loose sandy soil in which the well was
dug, we could not obtain more than about two and a half gallons of water
for each horse, the sides of the well continually falling in. Strong
breeze from the north-west, and several light showers in the evening and
night.
23rd September.
Having completed watering the horses, we left the well at 9.30 a.m., and
steering about north-west over undulating sandy downs, covered with
coarse scrub and patches of dense thickets, at 2.15 p.m. entered a small
gully trending north-west. The country improved, but was so thickly
clothed with wattles as to render travelling difficult; a few patches of
grass were seen in some small watercourses, in which a little water
remained. At 4.40 bivouacked on a large gully trending northwards, with
several small pools of water in a rocky bed of gneiss, containing
numerous small garnets. Strong breeze from the north-west and slight
showers.
24th September (Sunday).
Although the feed for the horses was not very abundant, yet the long
marches they had encountered the last few days made it expedient to give
them a day's rest to recruit their weary limbs. Read prayers. Strong
breeze from the north-west and slight showers during the day.
ENTER THE VALLEY OF THE MURCHISON RIVER.
25th September.
Started at 8.27 a.m.; passed over poor stony hills of granite formation
and producing a little grass in tufts--the wattles growing so close
together as to render travelling difficult and tedious. At 10.45 came on
a large stream-bed, which had scarcely ceased to run; the channel was
fifty yards wide, the bed steep and rocky, and, where crossed, ran over a
dyke of trap-rock, the water slightly brackish and in long shallow pools,
with samphire on the banks. This stream must be the Murchison River, as
no other was passed for 30 miles to the northward; the effects of violent
floods were visible, but it did not bear the character of a stream rising
at any great distance inland, nor did the nature of the gravel and sand
brought down by it indicate a rich soil on its upper portion, as I did
not see anything besides fragments of siliceous rock and garnet sand. The
valley through which it ran appeared to be five or six miles wide,
extending twenty miles to the eastward, backed by sandy plains on both
sides; a few patches of grass appeared in the lower parts of the valley;
westward it seemed to contract and turn to the south-west, flanked by
steep flat-topped hills of sandstone, resting on granite rock. Continuing
north-north-east up a small valley, we passed through wattle thickets
till 1.40 p.m., when we again ascended the level sandy tableland or
plains, and changed the course to the north; the scrub increased in
density as we proceeded. At 4.25 halted for the night in a patch of good
grass, where the thicket had been burnt off by the native fires; the
sandy nature of the soil rendered the search for water unsuccessful; we
therefore contended ourselves with the allowance of one pint each.
26th September.
Left the bivouac at 7.15 a.m.; course north; the country more open; 9.25
came on a large native well of good water in a slight hollow trending
westward; having watered the horses and filled the kegs, continued our
journey over sandy plains, covered with short coarse scrub; many hummocks
of loose sand, covered partially with scrub, lay on each side of our
track. At noon passed the last sandy ridge; before us lay an immense
plain, covered with thickets, and not a hill or valley could be
observed--the country seemed to settle into one vast level of dense and
almost impenetrable scrub or thicket. At 1 p.m. entered it, and continued
our route through it; although the bush-fires, which had burnt some large
patches, greatly assisted us; 4.15 not finding any grass, we steered
west, but at 5.15 were compelled to halt for the night in a dense
thicket, without a single blade of grass or even scrub of any kind which
could afford food for the horses; water it was hopeless to look for; and
after a supper of raw bacon, damper, and a pint of water each, we retired
to rest.
WATERLESS COUNTRY AND DENSE SCRUB NORTH OF MURCHISON RIVER.
27th September.
At 7.0 a.m. set out on a north course; at 8.5, finding the thicket almost
impassable, I ascended a cypress-tree, where a most cheerless view met my
sight to the north, east, and west; not a break was visible--nothing but
thicket in all directions, with scarcely an undulation of any kind; the
view to the north-west was most extensive--nearly twenty miles of thicket
could be seen, with a surface as level as the sea. Not considering it
prudent to proceed onwards, the thicket being too dense to advance
without the greatest difficulty, the saddle-bags being almost torn to
pieces, and the horses quite worn out with continual exertions in
dragging their packs through the thickets, we were compelled to return to
the well passed yesterday morning. The country seen to the northwards was
of too flat and sandy a character to give any hope of finding water or
grass--and without these requisites, it would be incurring great risk of
losing the horses, and of course defeating the object of the expedition;
therefore, taking advantage of the partially cleared tracts of yesterday,
we reached the watering place at 4.30 p.m.
28th September.
This day we employed ourselves in repairing our pack-saddles, which it
was found necessary to restuff, as they had been padded with coarse
rushes; the saddle-bags had been torn to pieces, and the repairs of these
required more time than could be afforded in an evening's bivouac.
29th September.
Started at 8.35 a.m.; pursued a general course of 310 degrees, gradually
ascending the sandy downs on the north side of the valley for three
miles; it then turned to the north of west, and we again descended, and
found the bottom occupied by a narrow samphire flat, 50 to 100 yards
wide, over which the water runs during heavy rains, but it was now dry,
and in some parts covered with a thin crust of salt; 11.26 passed a
native well of slightly brackish water, amongst loose blocks of red
sandstone; a small well was passed at 11.50; the samphire flat then
changed to a small sandy channel, among large blocks of sandstone
belonging to the coal-formation: in one place the slate also cropped out.
Abundance of brackish water lay in small pools along the course of the
stream-bed, which at 1.0 p.m. changed its direction nearly west; we
followed it through a scrubby valley, with high hills on both sides, till
4.45, when we bivouacked just below the junction of a small gully from
the northwards, with a very remarkable sandstone hill about
three-quarters of a mile south; below this spot the valley trended to the
south-west, and was bounded on the north-west by flat-tapped sandstone
hills.
30th September.
Not being more than ten to fifteen miles from the sea, I steered north
330 degrees east magnetic. Starting at 8.5, and having ascended the high
land, passed through a thick line of wattles and dwarf gum, growing on
the eastern face of the limestone range, which forms the high barren
range along this part of the coast. The country was covered with thick
scrub, and some patches of gum and wattle thicket; about noon it was more
open, and ascending an elevated sandy ridge, saw apparently a high range
of hills extending north-north-west as far as Shark Bay, and terminated
by a very abrupt and detached hill; but the excessive refraction caused
by the heated and nearly level plain which intervened more than doubled
their real height. We descended gradually over a succession of sandy
hills or ridges till 2.0 p.m., when the lowest part of the plain was
reached; we found it occupied by a small patch of spear-wood; the soil
was hard dry clay, but on proceeding a little farther we found a patch of
moist ground, encircled by a ridge of sand; at one foot deep we found
water, but in such small quantity that we could only obtain sufficient
for ourselves, and should have had to wait at least two hours to have
given each horse only one gallon. Proceeding onwards, in hope of finding
a more plentiful supply, we found the country became drier and full of
circular hollows, filled with fine clumps of green wattle and a little
grass; in one of these we bivouacked at 5.0, and dug six feet for water
in red sand, but without any appearance of obtaining it even at double
that depth.
REPULSED FOR WANT OF WATER.
1st October.
This morning started at 7.55 a.m., and steering north-west, in hope of
finding water, at 8.40 came on dense thickets of wattle, which extended
at least seven or eight miles farther north; we therefore turned west to
avoid them; at 9.30 changed the course to 300 degrees magnetic, and with
great difficulty forced our way for two miles to a narrow strip of open
ground; 12.40 p.m. arrived at the foot of the range of hills seen
yesterday; found them to consist of limestone and sand, covered with
thick scrub; between the hills were many nearly circular hollows filled
with thickets of wattles; although the bottoms of the hollows were at
least fifty feet below the lowest part of the ridges around them, they
were quite dry, and afforded no hope of water even by digging; the
country northward appeared even less likely to afford a supply, so much
required, as it seemed to consist wholly of limestone and loose sand,
without swamps or watercourses; the nearest spot at which we could hope
to find it in this direction was the south part of Freycinet Harbour,
distant, according to the charts, about thirty miles, and great doubt
existed of the accuracy of it in this position (error having been found
in some other parts of the coast-line); nor was it certain that we could
find water on the coast, in which case the loss of our horses would be
almost a necessary consequence, several of them showing extreme fatigue.
The circumstances of the case required a prompt decision; I therefore
ordered an immediate return towards the last spot where we had seen
water. The whole party felt convinced of the necessity of returning,
though with the greatest reluctance to do so, as it seemed to put an end
to almost every hope of reaching the Gascoyne River. We followed our
route back, and halted at 5.30 in a wattle thicket.
A HORSE FINDS WATER.
2nd October.
Left our uncomfortable bivouac at 7.30 a.m.; steered south-east. Finding
the horses scarcely able to travel from want of water, I took the
strongest and rode over to the spot where we had obtained a little on the
30th September, to dig wells and have a supply ready, if it could be
obtained in sufficient quantity; at 11.0 arrived, and found the wells we
had dug nearly dry; by opening several trenches down to the rocks which
lay about one and a half feet below the surface, the water oozed in, and
when the party came up, at 12.0, there was about a gallon for each horse;
taking off the packs, we commenced watering: four horses had received
their small allowance, when it came to my horse Bob's turn; after
drinking his share he marched off at a smart pace, which somewhat
surprised us, as he started in the direction of what we had supposed to
be nothing but a tea-tree scrub; on following him, we found the horse
drinking at a small shallow pool of water in a hollow in the clay. This
was a very fortunate discovery, as the trenches filled with water so
slowly that a full supply could not have been obtained that night, and
the horses had been sixty-five hours without water.
SAND PLAINS AND SCRUB. RETURN TO THE MURCHISON RIVER.
3rd October.
This morning Mr. Burges and myself started at 7.30 a.m. in a
north-easterly course, to ascertain the practicability of proceeding in
that direction, taking two of the strongest horses. After riding four
hours over an open, scrubby sand-plain, with circular valleys, we again
fell in with thickets of wattles so dense that, although burnt by the
native fires about four years previous, they would have been impassable
for the pack-horses; but, favoured by this circumstance, we penetrated
the thicket in a north-north-west direction for about twelve miles. From
one small sandy ridge we had an extensive view, but of a most
discouraging nature; the whole country was one vast plain, covered with
dense thickets and scrub as far as the eye could reach, except to the
west-north-west, where rose a high and barren ridge, which would not have
been visible but for excessive refraction, as it must have been more than
twenty-five miles distant. The plain was still dotted over with the
remarkable circular hollows or valleys which, by their extreme dryness,
indicated a great depth of sandy soil, incapable of retaining water on
the surface even for a short time, or any probability of our obtaining it
by digging. We turned in disappointment towards the encampment, scarcely
extricating ourselves from the thickets before it became dark. Having
gained the sand-plain, we continued our return for several hours,
steering by the stars, hoping by a night march to avoid the scorching
effects of the sun, which at this season renders travelling over an
extensive sandy plain very fatiguing. Having been more than eleven hours
in the saddle, we halted for the night.
4th October.
Started with the dawn, and pushing our tired and hungry horses over the
plain as fast as circumstances would admit, arrived at the encampment
before the heat of the day became excessive. During our absence two more
waterholes had been excavated, and sufficient water obtained for the
horses; but, from the great evaporation, it did not seem likely to last
longer than three or four days: the hardness of the sandstone precluded
our sinking the wells more than one and a half feet. The extreme aridity
of the country--the absence of water in consequence of the sandy nature
of the soil, which renders it impossible that watercourses should
exist--the dense and almost impassable nature of the thickets of acacia
and melaleuca of small growth, and the heat of the climate--all tend to
prove the fallacy of attempting to explore this part of the colony,
excepting during the wettest of the winter months. Under the existing
circumstances, I considered it my duty not to lead the party into a
position from which it would most probably be impracticable to extricate
ourselves without at least losing some of our horses; and even
difficulties of a more serious nature might arise, which would prevent
the more complete examination of the imperfectly known country to the
southward of our present position, more especially as a successful
advance to the northward seemed impossible.
5th October.
Left the encampment at 8.10 a.m.; steered north 135 degrees east magnetic
over sandy country, covered with coarse scrub; at noon passed a narrow
strip of wooded grassy land, the soil being limestone and red loam. The
country again became scrubby, and, descending an open valley, came on a
small watercourse at 1.5 p.m., trending south; followed it
south-south-west. At 2.15 passed our bivouac of the 29th September, and
turning south-west along the stream-bed, at 4.0 came on the right bank of
the Murchison River, running through wide grassy flats, the stream
forming large pools, some of them more than a mile in length; but, with
the exception of the flats on each side of the bank, the country is poor
and scrubby, destitute of trees, and the hills high and rocky, consisting
of red sandstone, those to the west capped with limestone.
6th October.
The horses being much fatigued and nearly starved, having subsisted
chiefly on scrub for the last two days, we determined to rest them for a
few days, while we examined the river towards its mouth. I started with
Mr. Bedart, and tracing the stream downwards to the south-west, reached
the sea after a ride of six hours. Excepting the flats and a narrow strip
of land on each side, the country was very indifferent, the hills being
composed of sandstone and sand, covered with coarse scrub and a gigantic
species of grass, the leaves of which, instead of affording food for
stock, were a source of great annoyance to our horses, being armed with
sharp thorny points, and was somewhat appropriately called bayonet grass
by the party. The tide flows about five miles up the river, when it is
obstructed by some slight rapids; although it seems shallow, and full of
rocks and islands, I think it is navigable for small boats. Above the
rapids the river is a succession of long reaches of water about 100 yards
wide, and wide flats covered with reeds, the roots of which seem to form
an important article of food with the natives. Many springs were seen on
the left bank, but few on the right, the water of which was of excellent
quality. After making observations of the bar, which appeared to be
practicable for whaleboats in moderate weather if the wind be south of
west, we returned along the south shore of the estuary, which is about
one and a half mile long and half a mile wide; it does not appear to be
of any great depth. My horse being quite knocked up, it was dark before
we could reach a spot where we could obtain water and grass; having come
to a convenient place, we bivouacked under a large overhanging rock, as
it promised to be a wet night.
7th October.
At 6.0 a.m. we were in our saddles, but owing to the rocky nature of the
country did not arrive at the encampment till 12.30 p.m. During our
absence the party had been successful in fishing and shooting; a savoury
mess of cockatoos, swans, and ducks, with fried fish, proved a welcome
change to us, after living so many weeks on salt meat and damper.
8th October (Sunday).
9th October.
The valley of the river being rocky and impassable above the camp, we
crossed to the left bank and ascended the sandy tableland; steered about
south-east from 7.45 a.m. to 11.0, when we came on the stream in a deep
valley formed by almost perpendicular red sandstone cliffs from 50 to 200
feet in height, broken at short intervals by enormous fissures (their
general direction west-north-west and nearly at right angles with the
river), which time, with the action of water, had worn into impassable
ravines, frequently extending more than half a mile back from the river,
and rendered travelling very tedious and unsafe, as it was requisite to
avoid the thick scrubs covering the higher land. The course of the river
now changed to nearly south, and preserved the same rocky and
unapproachable character till 5.0 p.m., when a break in the cliffs
enabled us to descend into the valley, although with some difficulty and
danger to the horses, which had to slide down the steep rocks at the risk
of breaking their necks, which would have been the almost certain result
of a single false step; but the descent being accomplished, they were
rewarded by an abundant supply of grass and water, the latter from a
large spring at the foot of the cliffs.
10th October.
While breakfast was preparing, Mr. Burges and myself examined the right
bank of the river, and after a short search, found a practicable ascent
to the top of the cliffs, and having cleared a way through the thicket of
melaleuca on the bank of the river, returned to breakfast. At 7.50 a.m.
commenced ascending, and at 8.30 reached the summit of the rocky hills,
and steering about south-east through a succession of thickets, rocks,
yawning chasms, sand-hills, and scrub, we attained to a fine grassy flat
at 12.30 p.m. The bed of the river here quite changed its character, the
sandstones giving place to granite gneiss, with dark trap dykes
intersecting it in a northerly and southerly direction, the dip of the
strata being to the west at a very high angle, at times almost
perpendicular.
A DEPOT CAMP. EXPLORE THE UPPER MURCHISON.
11th October.
As this appeared to be a good spot for the formation of a depot, while we
examined the upper portion of the Murchison, I proceeded up the river in
company with Mr. Burges, leaving the rest of the party to guard the camp
and attend to the horses. After one hour's ride we came on our track
where we crossed the river on the 25th September, the general course of
the stream-bed being east-north-east, its channel averaging 100 yards in
width, full of rocks, small trees, and sandbanks, with many shallow
brackish pools of water, with the exception of one, which was both wide
and deep, where we halted for two hours to rest the horses; few of the
pools seemed likely to last through the heat of summer. At 1.0 p.m. we
came on a party of natives, five of whom came up to us, following us for
some distance. As they seemed to prefer mimicking our attempts to speak
the York dialect to using their own, we could not obtain much
information; they carried kylies and dowaks, but had left their spears
and shields with the rest of their party, who did not make their
appearance. At 3.0 passed several ridges of red sandstone rocks, the
strata dipping to the east-north-east at an angle of from 20 to 60
degrees. The granite rock entirely disappearing, the country became quite
level, and covered with one universal thicket of acacia and cypress,
except the very slight depression which formed a shallow valley about
three miles wide, through which the river runs in a deep channel from 80
to 100 yards wide in ordinary seasons, but when in flood must exceed 300
yards, and the rise of the water, judging from the rubbish drifted up in
former years, must exceed thirty feet. The valleys did not seem to be
more than 100 feet below the general surface of the country (which was
quite level), filled with a dense thicket of wattles; a narrow strip of
large gum-trees, growing in grassy flats close to the river, marked the
course of the stream. At 5.0 we halted for the night by a small pool of
fresh water in one of the back channels of the river, the pools in the
main bed being all brackish.
12th October.
Started at 6.35 a.m., following the river, the general course being
north-north-east; no change was observed in its character. At 11.20
halted to rest the horses, and again started at 1.40 p.m. At 3.40 came on
a large party of natives at a fresh water pool; five followed us some
miles, and were not to be satisfied until we had made an exchange of part
of a handkerchief for a quantity of noolban, some dowaks, and dabbas,
some of which we accepted as a token of our friendly intentions. The
stream-bed turned east, and we followed it until 6.0, when we were halted
for the night, having the good fortune to find a little fresh water by
digging in the sand in the bed of the river, the pools being all
brackish.
RETURN TO DEPOT CAMP.
13th October.
At 6.15 a.m., we were again in our saddles, and continued journey up the
river--the general course north-north-east. In vain we looked for some
rising ground or hill from which we might obtain a view of the country,
but the same sandy level, covered with dense thickets of wattles, still
met the eye till 11.0, when we observed a low sandstone cliff forming the
eastern side of the valley. In this direction we steered, and after
pushing through thickets of wattle growing on stony ground, with small
patches of salsolaceous plants, we arrived at the foot of the cliff,
which was about sixty feet in height, of white sandstone, full of rounded
quartz pebbles. The top was nearly on a level with the general plane of
the country, which was of a most cheerless aspect. The valley of the
river trended to the north-north-east for eight or ten miles, then to the
east; the width appeared about five miles, and one dense thicket of
wattles seemed to fill the entire space. The rest of the country was,
without the slightest exception, level in the extreme, covered with one
universal thicket of acacia and cypress, the latter indicating the sandy
nature of the soil. As no appearance of change in the character of the
country within twenty or thirty miles was visible, and we had only two
days' provisions left (not having expected the stream to extend so far),
and the camp at sixty miles distant, we were obliged to leave the farther
examination of the river to some future explorers; but we regretted it
the less as, from the nature of the gravel and sand brought down by the
stream, there seemed great probability that it takes its rise in large
salt marshes similar to those known to exist 100 miles east of the Irwin,
if it does not actually drain them, as the general trend of the most
northerly marshes seen was in the direction of the upper part of the
Murchison. Under these circumstances, we returned to our bivouac of last
night, reaching it at 5.40 p.m.
14th October.
Started at 6.25 a.m., and retracing our route down the river, came to our
bivouac of the 11th at 5.5 p.m. without any incident worthy of notice,
but surprising three or four natives asleep in the bed of the stream;
they were of the party seen on our route up the river.
15th October (Sunday).
Resumed our journey; passed two parties of natives; a few of them
followed us some distance, and having overcome their first surprise,
commenced talking in their own language, which, as far as we could
understand it, had great affinity to that spoken by the natives in the
York and Toodyay districts. After a smart ride of seven hours we arrived
at the encampment, found the rest of the party all well, and the horses
much improved by their few days' rest.
THE GERALDINE LEAD MINE DISCOVERED. THE HUTT RIVER.
16th October.
The two horses we had ridden up the river requiring a day's rest, which
was also acceptable to Mr. Burges and myself, we remained at the camp and
made preparations to move on to the Hutt River the next day. Mr. Walcott
brought in some specimens of galena, which, on farther observation,
proved to be abundant.
17th October.
Leaving our encampment at 9.10 a.m., we steered a southerly course,
passing over a succession of low granite hills, thickly covered with
acacia, to the exclusion of almost every other kind of vegetation, save a
few scattered tufts of grass. At noon entered the sand-plains which
occupy the high lands in this district; observed a patch of grassy land
bearing south-west; proceeding in that direction, at 1.0 p.m. came on it,
but found it to be a very small spot of grassy granite country, encircled
by sand-plains and scrub. Continuing our course, at 2.5 struck a small
stream-bed trending west-south-west; the valley in which it runs is
bounded on both sides by sandy hills, covered with scrub; some patches of
grass and wattles occupied the lower ground wherever the granite rock
showed itself; tracing the stream-bed downwards, we found many brackish
pools. At 3.45 crossed the left bank--found it running, but brackish; and
at 4.20 we bivouacked at its junction with the Hutt River, which was here
about ten yards wide, with narrow grassy flats on both banks. The hills
are of sandstone and sand, producing little besides scrub.
18th October.
Started at 7.50 a.m., steering north 140 degrees east magnetic up the
valley of the Hutt, which gradually widened and improved, the hills being
grassy for an average distance of two miles back from the stream, of
granite formation, and thinly sprinkled with wattles; behind the grassy
land the country rose into sandy plains, covered with short scrub. At
9.20 crossed to the left bank; the river trended to the eastward. At
11.10 sighted King's Table Hill, bearing south magnetic. We then
descended into the rich and grassy valley of the Bowes River; this we
traversed till 4.0 p.m., when we bivouacked in a small stream tributary
to the Bowes. As the country passed over this day had not been previously
examined, we were much pleased to find it equal to the best land on the
southern branch of the Bowes, visited by the Surveyor-General and myself
on former occasions.
FINE PASTORAL COUNTRY.
19th October.
Messrs. Burges, Bedart, and myself rode down the Bowes to examine the
country, and found it generally of good grassy character, suitable for
sheep; the bed of the streams being filled with broad-leaved reeds, seems
to indicate an abundant supply of water in the dry season; but the pools
were very small, and the water all brackish, not even excepting the
running streams. The hills are of gneiss, with garnets and trap-rock, the
latter producing excellent grass of various kinds, the most conspicuous
of which is a species of kangaroo-grass, but of a less woody character of
seed-stalk than that found in other parts of the colony. The extent of
land fit for sheep-feeding on this stream (it can scarcely be called a
river) I should estimate at 100,000 acres, and Mr. Burges considered it
capable of feeding about 17,000 sheep. The existence of garnets, iron
pyrites, and a mineral resembling in many of its properties plumbago,
specimens of which were found in the gneiss of this district, seems to
indicate a metalliferous formation, and I have little doubt a further
search might develop many of the present hidden sources of wealth. Near
the coast we fell in with some natives (four men and five women), who
were very friendly, but from their peculiar nature we were unable to
accept of their civilities.
20th October.
Started with Messrs. Burges and Walcott to examine the upper part of the
Buller river; after passing over the country examined by Lieutenant Irby
and myself in December, 1846, we crossed the granite ridge which divides
the valley of the Buller into two nearly equal portions. We found the
land on the left bank of the eastern branch of very good and grassy
description, consisting of a range of granite hills about ten miles north
and south, and two miles in width; to the east of which the high sandy
and level plains commence in an abrupt line of sandstone slopes and
hills. Halted for the night in the east branch of the Buller, with water
in small pools and abundance of grass for our horses.
21st October.
Continued the examination of the Buller Valley down to the spot where I
bivouacked on the river in December, 1846; then followed up the stream
for seven miles, where we dined, and then steering west-north-west,
arrived at the camp at 6.30 p.m. We estimated the valley of the Buller to
contain about 10,000 acres of good grassy land, and 30,000 acres of
inferior feeding country; the good land is much broken into patches by
that which is of indifferent quality. Timber is here, and also on the
Bowes, very scarce, and the little that exists is very indifferent and
small.
22nd October (Sunday).
Messrs. Bedart and C.F. Gregory walked to the hill which lies
three-quarters of a mile west of King's Table Hill. The rock of which it
is formed appeared to belong to the coal formation, as thin seams of
black shale were seen in the rocks of which the lower strata of the hill
are composed; but the natives making their appearance, it was not
considered prudent to remain geologizing among the cliffs. Returning
towards the camp, the natives followed for some distance, and on
descending a cliff the women commenced pelting the party with stones,
apparently in revenge for the refusal of certain courteous invitations,
which perhaps are the greatest marks of politeness which they think it
possible to offer to strangers.
CHAPMAN RIVER.
23rd October.
Left our encampment at 8.5 a.m., and steered 150 degrees magnetic over
granite hills producing wattles and good grass. At 9.40 crossed the south
branch of the Bowes, after which the country was not so well grassed,
except in the valleys. The lower hills were of granite; the higher red
sandstone of tabular form. At 11.0 the country became more sandy and
covered with short scrub, gradually rising to the south. At noon we
attained the high tableland; crossed two scrubby valleys bounded by
sandstone hills, in the first of which the black shale peculiar to the
coal formation showed itself, with a slight dip to the south. At 1.50
p.m. crossed the Buller in a rocky channel with reedy pools, apparently
of permanent character. The land improved and became grassy, and
ascending the hills on the left bank, passed Peak Hill at 2.50: this is
the highest part of the range between the Buller and Chapman. From this
we steered south down a small grassy valley; the hills with granite bases
and sandstone table summits, with excellent grass, and thinly wooded with
acacia and a few York gums. At 3.15 bivouacked in a patch of excellent
grass with water in small quantities.
24th October.
A violent thunderstorm during the night was followed by a rainy and misty
morning; the weather clearing up, we walked down to the Chapman River,
which was running in a sandy channel with small shallow pools. The land
on the bank of the stream was very indifferent and sandy for about a
mile, when it rose into granite and sandstone hills, covered with
excellent grass.
EFFECT OF REFRACTION. GREENOUGH RIVER.
25th October.
Accompanied by Messrs. Burges and Walcott, I proceeded to examine the
country to the eastward of our camp. Starting at 7.20 a.m., steered east
over grassy hills, with granite bases and table summits of red sandstone,
the latter rock forming but a poor soil with scanty feed and scrub;
crossed several small gullies running into the Chapman. At 10.0 passed a
large sandy hill, covered with short scrub, and halted at 11.0 in a
grassy gully in the bottom of a wide scrubby valley; at 12.45 p.m. again
resumed our journey, and ascending the sandy downs, at 1.15 gained the
highest ridge. Before us lay the valley of the Greenough River; the white
and red sandstone cliffs, which bound the valley on the south-east, were
distorted by excessive refractions, which, as we crossed each sandy
ridge, changed their appearance, sometimes assuming the appearance of
islands with high rocky shores, then like reefs with heavy breakers,
followed by high cliffs and grassy hills; but as we approached they
assumed their true character of low rocky hills and cliffs, scarce
exceeding 200 feet in height, and generally covered with dense thickets
of acacia growing on an otherwise barren stony soil. At 3.30 came on the
right bank of the Greenough River; the bed was quite dry, and had no
appearance of having run since the winter of 1847. Following up the
stream-bed to the north-east, passed some shallow pools of salt water;
and at 4.45 observed the black coal shales at the bottom of a deep cliff,
which formed the left bank of the river. At 5.0 halted for the night,
obtaining fresh water by scraping in the sand by the side of a pool of
salt water; we also found sufficient grass for our horses on the bank of
the river.
26th October.
At 7.10 a.m. left our bivouac, steering north 120 degrees east magnetic
towards a high sandstone cliff, which, after a ride of three-quarters of
an hour through thickets of acacia, we ascended; but the view was not
satisfactory, as thickets and scrubs extended over the whole of the
country. We therefore returned to the river, and followed it downwards to
the south-west by south. At 11.30 found some fresh water in a small
waterhole in the bed of the river; halted till 1.50 p.m. to refresh the
horses. The river turned south, and at 2.27 was joined by a small gully
from the west, and coming from a grassy valley. As it had run during the
last winter, it quite altered the character of the river for quarter of a
mile, filling the pools with water, and giving the grass and trees a
freshness which formed a most striking contrast with the brown and
parched appearance of the rest of the valley. At 3.55 altered the course
to 210 degrees magnetic; the country improved, many patches of grassy
land appearing in the valley, and the country became more rocky. At 5.30
crossed to the left bank, and found the river running with many large
pools of water, some more than a half a mile long and 80 to 100 yards
wide. The water was slightly brackish, being this year supplied
principally by springs, taking their rise in the new red sandstone
formation. We then followed the winding course of the river south-west
amongst high hills of sandstone, many of which were covered with
excellent grass, though the country was not generally good. At 6.20
halted for the night on the right bank of the stream, in a narrow but
rich grassy flat; heavy rain in the night.
WIZARD PEAK. CHAMPION BAY. MOUNT FAIRFAX.
27th October.
Started at 7.0 a.m. and steering an average course of west by north,
ascended the high land on the north bank of the Greenough. For the first
hour the hills were of red sandstone, very steep and rocky, producing
little but coarse scrub; some of the valleys and lower hills were well
grassed; the country then improved, the hills being of the coal
formation, and the limestones forming very rich and grassy hills. At 9.40
the granite and gneiss formed a basis of the high sandstone-topped hills,
which rose about 500 feet on each side of the valley. At 10.15 crossed to
the left bank of the river, and re-crossed to the right at 11.10. The
lower parts of the valley were not so rich or well grassed as the hills,
but would afford excellent summer feed for sheep. Having dined, and given
our horses an hour's feed on the rich grass which grew in the bed of the
river (which here turned to the south), we continued our route. After an
hour's ride over rich grassy hills, reached the foot of Wizard's Peak.
Here we left our horses and ascended the hill; arrived at the summit, to
our great surprise, instead of the scrubby and sterile country described
by Captain Stokes of the Beagle, beautiful grassy hills, stretching from
north to south-east, met our view to the extent of about 20,000 acres;
had it not been certain, from bearings to Mount Fairfax and other hills,
that we were on Wizard Peak, I should have suspected its identity.
Leaving Wizard Peak at 2.30 p.m., steered north along the western foot of
the grassy range. The country to the east consists of grassy hills of
limestone, rich in fossil remains of wood and shells, with an occasional
granite hill producing coarse grass or short scrub; to the west the
country was more level, but less grassy, and in many parts scrubby. We
fell in with some of the natives, who appeared friendly disposed. Crossed
the Chapman at 6.5, and arrived at the camp at 7.15.
28th October.
Left the camp at 7.40 a.m., steering north-west. Made the stream
previously called the Buller at 9.0; followed it downwards to the
south-south-west till 11.0, when it became evident that, instead of being
the Buller, it was the north branch of the Chapman. The land on its banks
was not generally good, although some fine patches of grass were seen.
Leaving the stream, we ascended Moresby's Range; the valleys and sides of
the hills were covered with fine grass, and the sandstone rocks were rich
with fossil remains of shells and wood. With some difficulty we descended
the western face of the hills; after which, an hour's ride over a scrubby
plain brought us to the mouth of the Chapman River, running strongly over
a ledge of limestone rock into the sea. We crossed the river, and over to
the usual landing-place in Champion Bay; we then returned to the Chapman,
and halted for the night.
29th October.
Two of the horses having broken from their tether during the night, we
were obliged to put the three saddles on the remaining horse, and proceed
to track the stray horses; after tracking them about two miles, we found
them on their way back to the camp. We then rode along the western foot
of Moresby's Range, and ascended Mount Fairfax; after taking sketches and
bearings, we steered for the encampment, and reached it about 2.0 p.m.
30th October.
Messrs. Burges, Walcott, and Bedart rode out this morning to examine the
grassy hills on the south side of the Chapman River, and on their return
reported the country to be of a generally good grassy character.
NATIVES STEAL FRYING-PAN.
31st October.
Left the encampment at 8.0 a.m. and steering 200 degrees magnetic over
alternately grassy and scrubby hills of granite sandstone, crossed the
Chapman at 9.40. Our course then lay nearly parallel to the river till
noon; the land on the river was indifferent and thinly grassed, but rose
into good grassy hills about a mile from the river. We then entered a
level scrubby plain, extending from the Victoria Range to the sea. At
12.30 p.m. altered the course to 175 degrees magnetic, and at 1.5 to 139
degrees magnetic. At 1.15 the plain became grassy, and the soil good
(with the exception of a few patches of York gum, the only trees were
wattles), and by a rough estimate contained about 8,000 acres of good
grassy land; on the north bank of the Greenough River, which we reached
at 3.15, the channel was about seventy yards wide, but dry and sandy; nor
did we observe any sign of its having run during the past winter. A
little below where we struck the river it turned to the south-east;
following it in that direction till 3.45 we bivouacked, obtaining a
scanty supply of water by digging in the sand. Shortly after halting, a
party of about thirty natives came up, and appeared friendly; they told
us that there was a fine spring at some distance to the westward, but we
could not obtain any other useful information, as their dialect differs
considerably from that spoken in the settled districts, although some few
words are the same. They encamped a short distance from us, and in the
night stole our frying-pan, to dig a well, but returned it next morning
before the theft was discovered.
THE IRWIN RIVER.
1st November.
At 7.10 a.m. resumed our course south-east, along the eastern side of the
grassy plain. The scrubby hills gradually approached on each side; at
9.30 the good land terminated, the estimate being 2,000 acres on the
south bank of the Greenough River. The country then became sandy,
producing little besides scrub and a few banksia trees. At 10.0 passed
about one mile west of Mount Hill; passed a small pool of water in a
watercourse trending south-west. At 12.50 p.m. altered the course to 170
degrees magnetic; at 3.0 entered a thick forest of York gum; at 3.25
changed the course to 130 degrees magnetic and entered a grassy flat
extending to the Irwin River, which we reached at 3.55, and following it
upwards till 4.15, bivouacked on the left bank in a large flat. Shortly
before reaching the river a large party of natives came up with us, after
tracking the horses for some distance. Seventy or eighty men came to the
bivouac, and, with the exception of one man who shipped a spear, making a
demonstration of throwing it at us, they evinced a desire for the more
peaceable amusement of eating damper and fat bacon. A few of the natives
spoke a little English, having been for a short time in the settled
districts. At sunset they retired to the other side of the river, and all
appeared quiet when my watch commenced at 10.30; but at midnight I
detected a native crawling up amongst the thick grass about ten yards
from the back of the tents. He lay quiet till I almost turned him out of
his hiding-place with the muzzle of my gun, when he took to his heels,
but I did not consider it prudent either to fire at or capture him.
2nd November.
The natives being too numerous to allow any of the party leaving the camp
to examine the country around without incurring greater risk than seemed
prudent, we left our bivouac at 7.45 a.m. and steered north 170 degrees
east magnetic over sandy hills, covered with short scrub. After two hours
the country became nearly level, with small patches of swampy ground,
which would be very wet in the rainy season, but was at present quite
dry; the rising grounds were sand, covered with short scrub with a few
scattered banksia trees. At 5.40 p.m. struck the left bank of the stream
which has been considered to be the Arrowsmith River of Captain Grey,
though I have now some reason to doubt its identity. The banks of the
stream are sandstone and sand, and the channel scarcely three yards wide,
with a strip of grassy thicket twenty yards in width along the stream,
which is the only feed near the river, as the plain through which it runs
produces nothing but scrub and banksia with a few grass-trees. We
bivouacked a short distance below the spot where we first struck the
stream, which was still running.
3rd November.
Our horses having but a very scanty feed at this place, we moved down the
stream to obtain better grass for them before crossing the sand-plains
which lay to the south. After following the stream west for two hours,
encamped in a small grassy flat, below which the stream ceased to run,
the water being wholly absorbed by the sandy soil, which has a substratum
of limestone of recent formation.
SEVENTY MILES OF SAND PLAIN.
4th November.
Accompanied by Mr. Bedart, rode to the westward; passing over sandy
plains and ridges for four hours, came to the beach, which we followed
northwards for three hours, hoping to meet with the mouth of the stream
on which our camp was placed. Not perceiving any signs of it, we turned
to the east, and after an hour's struggle through a thick jungle, we came
on a wet grassy flat, on which the stream seemed to be lost. Steering a
general course of south-south-east, we arrived at 9.10 p.m. at the camp,
after a ride of thirteen and a quarter hours, and the country traversed
almost wholly worthless sand and scrub.
5th November (Sunday).
Remained at our encampment to rest the horses. Read prayers.
6th November.
Leaving our encampment at 7.10 a.m., we steered north 170 degrees east
magnetic, along the limits of the low scrubby limestone hills which
extend along this part of the coast. To the east the level sandy plain
extended from eight to ten miles, and then rose into high sandstone
hills, covered with scrub and destitute of trees; but at the junction of
the limestone and sandstone formation, along which lay our route, were
several small lagoons and swamps of fresh water, with grassy margins. At
10.0 altered the course to southward; the line of swamps trending to
south-south-west, we entered the level sandy plain. At noon passed a
shallow pool of rainwater in a slight depression of the plain, and
shortly after crossed two small watercourses trending west; a little
brackish water remained in the deeper portions of their channels. The
effect of refraction on this level country, when heated by the midday
sun, was so great as to cause many of the low sandy ridges to appear like
large lakes and inlets of the sea, as in some instances the more distant
hills were obscured by its effects. At 2.45 p.m. we reached the sandstone
range, and at 3.5 halted in a small patch of grass around a native well
of good water, which had the appearance of retaining water throughout the
summer. While here we obtained several additions to our small collection
of birds.
MOUNTS PERON AND LESUEUR.
7th November.
At 7.20 a.m. resumed our journey southwards, over a high and somewhat
rugged range of sandstone hills; passed a short distance to the east of
Mounts Peron and Lesueur. The valleys were wooded with red and white-gum
of large growth, but the hills produced little besides coarse scrub. At
2.20 p.m. passed a large mound spring; at 2.45 crossed the Hill River of
Captain Grey; the land on its banks, with the exception of a few grassy
hills on the northern side, was very scrubby and indifferent. Ascending
the high sandstone country on the south side of the river, we halted at
5.35 in a sandy valley trending north-west, in which we found a small
patch of grass around a native well; but we were not much in want of
water, being completely drenched by a heavy shower of rain just after we
halted.
8th November.
Resumed our journey at 8.0 a.m., steering north 105 degrees east magnetic
over a range of high scrubby sandstone hills. At 1.15 p.m. crossed a
small stream-bed trending westwards in a wide scrubby valley. At 3.5,
having ascended the hills to the south of the valley, observed a
remarkable sandstone hill which I passed on a previous excursion from Mr.
Lefroy's station at Welbing. Altering the course to 170 degrees magnetic,
we passed the hill; at 5.45 halted in a fine grassy flat on the banks of
a small brook-course trending west, in which we found abundance of water
in small pools. As we were only forty miles west of Mr. Lefroy's station
at Welbing, and the country in that direction already examined, I
instructed Mr. C.F. Gregory to proceed with the party and pack-horses to
Welbing and thence by the road to Perth, while, accompanied by Mr.
Bedart, I pursued a more direct but less eligible course for pack-horses.
THE MOORE RIVER.
9th November.
Leaving the rest of the party at the bivouac, at 9.50 a.m., in company
with Mr. Bedart, we steered a general course of south by east magnetic
over hills of sandy loam, producing a little grass and thickly timbered
with red-gum. Passed several extensive grassy valleys, with many fine
patches of rich limestone land on their slopes. At 2.0 p.m. the grass was
replaced by scrub, and at 3.30 entered the wide scrubby valley of the
Moore River, which we reached at 4.20. After some delay in crossing the
river, in consequence of one of the horses falling down in the mud, from
which we had some trouble to extricate him, we bivouacked about one mile
below the spot where we first made the river.
10th November.
Leaving the Moore River we steered south by west, and after traversing a
nearly level sandy plain, producing banksia and scrub, with many lagoons
and swamps, in eight hours' riding reached the Norcott or Gingin Brook.
The banks were low and swampy; after a short search found a suitable
place for crossing, and having swam the horses across, we halted for the
night on the left bank.
11th November.
Started at 7.0 a.m., steering east by south magnetic; ascended the
western Wilbinga Hill at 9.0, and traversing a rough limestone country,
with several reedy swamps, reached Lake Nowergup at 2.50 p.m., and at 4.0
halted on the western side of the Wanaginup Swamp.
12th November (Sunday).
Once more in the saddle, and following the road past Wonneroo, arrived in
Perth at 2.30 p.m.
Mr. C.F. Gregory having accompanied the party to the Victoria Plains,
proceeded with Private W. King by the Bindoon road to Perth, where he
arrived on the 17th.
The total distance travelled in this expedition was, in round numbers,
1,500 miles, and the extreme point reached in latitude 27 degrees south,
350 miles from Perth in a direct line; and the period we were engaged in
the expedition was ten weeks.
***
HIS EXCELLENCY GOVERNOR CHARLES FITZGERALD'S EXPEDITION TO THE GERALDINE
LEAD MINE.
1848.
CHAMPION BAY TO MURCHISON RIVER.
1st December.
Sailed from Fremantle in the Champion for Champion Bay, where we arrived
on the 3rd, swam the ponies on shore, and encamped at the mouth of the
Chapman River.
4th December.
His Excellency the Governor came on shore, when the party, consisting of
the Governor, Mr. Bland, and myself, with three soldiers of the 96th
regiment, and the Governor's servant, started at 7.15 a.m., steering
north-east, crossed Moresby's flat-topped range at 9.0, made the North
Chapman at 10.0, followed the stream upward till 11.50, the general
course north-east by north. One native man and two women came up, and
then retired to the other side of the river, watching our proceedings.
Having dined, we started again at 2.25 p.m., steering a general north
course over an indifferent scrubby country till 4.40, when we halted for
twenty minutes to examine the black shale-like soil which was seen on a
former occasion, but on digging it proved to be only alluvial soil
resting on sand; from this spot we steered north 330 degrees magnetic
over high sandy hills covered with scrub; the country gradually improved,
and at 7.0 we halted for the night in a small grassy gully trending
north-west, obtaining water in a native well.
5th December.
Started at 6.40 a.m., continuing the same course as yesterday evening
over a succession of grassy hills of granitic formation till 11.10, when
we halted on the eastern branch of the Bowes River; several natives
shortly came to the encampment, and having eaten some biscuit and pork
which we offered to them, retired in the evening to the opposite side of
the stream-bed, keeping a close watch on us from behind some large rocks;
a strict watch was therefore maintained by us during the night.
6th December.
This morning the natives commenced by throwing stones at the men who went
down for the water, but we did not see any method of resenting it, except
by expressing our disapprobation in words, and at 5.35 a.m. we started on
a north-north-west course, the natives followed for about a mile, and
continued throwing stones at the party. The country passed over was
generally grassy granite hills till 9.0, when we ascended the high
tableland between the valley of the Bowes and Hutt rivers, which last we
reached at 10.25, and halted during the heat of the day on a pool of
brackish water; at 3.20 p.m., again started, and following the river
downwards, in a general course 310 degrees magnetic, at 6.10 bivouacked
at the spot where we had before halted on the 17th October; the water in
the pools brackish, but by digging near a moist bank obtained abundance
of fresh water.
THE GERALDINE LEAD MINE.
7th December.
Left our bivouac at 5.50 a.m., and steered north-east over high sandy
downs, covered with coarse scrub; at 10.30 entered the valley of the
Murchison River; at noon halted at our bivouac of the 24th September,
obtained some brackish water by digging in the sand of the small
stream-bed. Having dined, we resumed our journey at 2.30 p.m., and
bivouacked about 5.0 on the left bank of the Murchison, 500 yards below
the large lead vein, obtaining good water in the sandy bed of the river
by digging a few inches, the pools being all salt. While the men were
preparing the tents, etc., the Governor proceeded to examine the vein of
lead, which we traced to a greater distance than on the former occasion
of its discovery, the water having sunk two feet, exposing many portions
of the vein which were before covered.
8th December.
Examined the lead vein, tracing it 320 yards in a direction north 30
degrees east magnetic, along the bed of the Murchison River, which was
nearly dry; clearing the sand and loose stones from the surface, found it
to vary from eight to twenty-four inches in width, the general average
being twelve inches, the dip to the west-north-west at an angle of about
80 degrees from the horizon. Throughout the whole length the lead vein
appeared to be one solid mass of galena; the northern end either
terminates or alters its direction close to a vein of schistose rock,
which intersects the adjacent rocks; to the south the lode was covered by
several feet of sand, which prevented its being traced further, as we had
not time to remove it; the whole of the vein which was traced was
included within the banks of the river, and the greater portion was
covered by shallow water. One specimen of galena showed traces of copper.
The rock which prevails on each side of the vein is a hard compact
gneiss, abounding with garnets, some of which are of good colour, but
mostly full of flaws; the stratification of the gneiss is somewhat
confused, but it generally dips at a high angle (sometimes nearly
perpendicular) to the westward, the strike being north and south. The
facilities which the position of the lode offers for mining are not very
great, as it occupies the lowest part of the valley, and steam power
would be requisite to free the mine from water, and at the same time,
unless the small boat-harbour near the mouth of the Hutt River, or
Gantheaume Bay (both within thirty miles), be found suitable for the
purpose, Champion Bay, distant sixty-two miles in a direct line to the
south, is the nearest port where the ore could be shipped. In the evening
the Governor examined the spot where Mr. Walcott had discovered the small
pieces of lead ore about two and a half miles below the lode, but as most
of the pieces had been picked up on that occasion, we could only find a
few fragments of it.
9th December.
Left the encampment at 4.40 a.m., and steering about south-west, made our
former bivouac on the Hutt River about 1.0 p.m., and halted for the rest
of the day.
10th December.
Started at 4.50 a.m., steering 160 degrees magnetic over sandy country;
passed a small grassy valley at 8.0; halted on the north branch of the
Bowes at 10.10 on a small pool of brackish water; dined and resumed our
route at 2.40 p.m.; steered south over a grassy country till 6.10, when
we halted for the night on a tributary stream to the Bowes; obtained
fresh water by digging, the pools being very small and brackish.
CONFLICT WITH NATIVES. GOVERNOR SPEARED.
11th December.
Left the bivouac at 5.15 a.m., steering 175 degrees magnetic over an
indifferent country till 6.40, when we crossed the south branch of the
Bowes, the country improving. Here we saw several natives, who at first
hid themselves, but finding that we saw them, came after us. At first
they did not exceed eight or ten in number, but, being joined by several
other parties, gradually increased till they exceeded fifty, when they
altogether changed their friendly manner, and began to bring up their
spears. At 6.15 we passed to the west of King's Table Hill, and as the
country was covered with dense wattle thickets, the natives took
advantage of the ground, and having completely surrounded the party,
commenced first to threaten to throw their spears, then to throw stones,
and finally one man caught hold of Mr. Bland by the arm, threatening to
strike him with a dowak; another native threw a spear at myself, though
without effect; but before I could fire at him, the Governor, perceiving
that unless some severe example was made the whole party would be cut
off, fired at one of the most forward of our assailants, and killed him;
two other shots were fired by the soldiers, but the thickness of the
bushes prevented our seeing with what effect. A shower of spears, stones,
kylies, and dowaks followed, and although we moved to a more open spot,
the natives were only kept off by firing at any that exposed themselves.
At this moment a spear struck the Governor in the leg just above the
knee, with such force as to cause it to protrude two feet on the other
side, which was so far fortunate, as it enabled me to break off the barb
and withdraw the shaft. The Governor, notwithstanding his wound,
continued to direct the party, and although the natives made many
attempts to approach close enough to reach us with their spears, we were
enabled, by keeping on the most open ground, and checking them by an
occasional shot, to avoid their attacks in crossing the gullies. They
followed us closely for seven miles, after which they were only seen
occasionally, following in our track. Having reached the beach, we were
enabled to travel more rapidly, and although one of the ponies knocked
up, we reached Champion Bay at 3.30 p.m., and got the party and horses on
board the Champion by 5.0, where we were gladly welcomed by Lieutenant
Helpman. About sunset the natives came down to the beach, concealing
themselves behind the bushes, whilst a single unarmed native stood on the
beach, and called to us to come on shore, no doubt in the hope of making
a sudden attack on the boat should we venture to do so.
A.C. Gregory,
Assistant Surveyor.
***
THE MURCHISON RIVER.
1857.
THE UPPER MURCHISON RIVER.
In the month of March, 1857, Mr. Surveyor F.T. Gregory, while engaged on
the survey of the lower part of the Murchison, observed that the river
came down in flood, though there had been no rain for several months near
the coast, and taking advantage of such a favourable opportunity of
extending the exploration of the country beyond the point at which
previous explorers had been driven back for want of water and grass, he
proceeded up the Murchison, accompanied by his assistant, Mr. S. Trigg,
following the course of the river for 180 miles. For the last fifty miles
the condition of the vegetation showed that there had been heavy rains
which had caused the floods in the lower part of the river.
The following is an abstract of Mr. Gregory's report to the
Surveyor-General, as published at the time in the Perth Gazette:--
We last week intimated that an exploratory trip had lately been made into
the interior eastward of the Geraldine Mine. We have now the pleasure and
satisfaction of laying before our readers some details of one of the most
unassuming explorations, yet important in its results, which has ever
been undertaken in this colony. In the latter end of March last, Mr.
Assistant Surveyor F. Gregory and Mr. S. Trigg started from the Geraldine
Mine with two horses and sixteen pounds of flour, to trace the Murchison
to its source, and returned after thirteen days' absence. Mr. Gregory has
made a short report of his journey to the Surveyor-General, from which we
have been kindly furnished with the following extract:--
While at the Geraldine Mine I availed myself of the circumstance of the
Murchison being in flood to ascend that river and complete the sketch of
the unexamined portions, as also to gain any additional information that
might facilitate the exploration of the country between this and the
Gascoyne River. The fact that the natives describe a considerable tract
of grassy country extending northward from the head of the Murchison,
plentifully supplied with water, was an additional incentive to ascertain
from whence the inundation came.
TROPICAL RAINY SEASON. GOOD PASTORAL COUNTRY.
Accompanied by Mr. S. Trigg, I proceeded up the river about 180 miles, at
which point it ceased to run; we then ascended a hill in the vicinity of
600 or 700 feet elevation above the plain, which I have since found to
be, beyond a doubt, Mount Murchison of Austin; unfortunately I was unable
to procure a copy of his map or journal, and was thus prevented from
laying out my route to the greatest advantage by pushing more to the
northward and going over more new ground. As it is, the only information
I have been able to gain, beyond completing the plan of the river, is
that the principal fall of rain had been eastward of the 116th degree of
longitude, and that the tract of country between the great South Bend and
Mount Murchison, which proved barely capable of supporting Mr. Austin's
small party of horses in November, 1854, is now yielding a pasture nearly
equal to the average of the Champion Bay district, and in some parts most
luxuriant, the grass having scarcely arrived at maturity was perfectly
green; this remarkable change in the character of the country is, I am
inclined to think, not entirely confined to this year in particular, but
that from meteorological causes this district has not unfrequently the
benefit of tropical rains falling during the months of January and
February, although not always in sufficient quantity to cause the river
to flow as low as the settled districts.
It has already been observed by many persons that during the summer
months the prevailing sea breezes divide the northerly currents of vapour
about 100 miles inland from the west coast, preventing the rain from
falling throughout the same parallel of latitude.
As near the eastern limits of my route the Murchison throws off two
branches nearly equal in magnitude to the main stream, I am induced to
imagine that its extreme source does not lie more than sixty or seventy
miles beyond that point, and had it not been that I did not feel
justified in abstracting so large a portion of time from the regular
surveys of this district, there is no doubt but that I could with every
facility have completed the exploration of the country as far as the
Gascoyne in two or three weeks.
On comparing the tracing of the Murchison, which I now enclose, with Mr.
Austin's route, it will be observed that there is a difference of
seventeen miles in latitude, and something more in longitude throughout
the eastern portion, a discrepancy which I am at a loss to account for,
as my dead-reckoning to both the outward and inward track agree well with
my cross-bearings; my latitudes were, however, taken only with a pocket
sextant with a treacle horizon, and might therefore not be implicitly
relied on. I have, however, preferred plotting my route exactly as booked
in the field, leaving the existing error to be cleared up at some future
period.
...
From Mr. Trigg, who arrived on Wednesday by the Preston from Champion
Bay, we have gathered the following additional particulars:--
The outward route was on the south bank of the river Murchison; the first
sixty miles was but indifferent, but there were many spots of grass,
sufficient to maintain travelling herds or flocks; afterwards the soil on
the banks of the river improved and were continuously grassy, the general
width being about half a mile. About latitude 26 degrees 50 minutes,
longitude 116 degrees east, two large branches, almost if not quite equal
to the main stream, join the Murchison from the eastward. About Mr.
Austin's Mount Welcome the grass was found very luxuriant--from two to
three feet high, and between there and Mount Murchison the country is
described by Mr. Trigg to be very beautiful, and the soil superior to any
he had previously seen in the colony, and equal to the best land in
Victoria. Mount Murchison itself is an immense mass of quartz with
granite round the base; this differs from Mr. Austin's description, but
that gentleman does not appear to have ascended the hill. From the summit
three high lands were observable, one an isolated peak fifty miles east,
the others to the north and north-east apparently more distant; so far as
could be seen, the country to the east and north-east appeared scrubby
and indifferent. The return was on the north side of the Murchison; and
here a large extent of good grassy land was found, not on the bank, but a
mile and a half from the river, and reaching four or five miles in width
to the base of some hills, and reaching westward to the large northerly
bend of the river in longitude 115 degrees 30 minutes about forty miles
from the Geraldine Mine; the good land in all cases was very flat, the
soil a red loam, which when dry was very open; the whole country is
singularly infested with white ants, of which every tree living or dead
appeared to have its colony. Mr. Trigg regards the country around Mount
Murchison as auriferous.
...
The striking difference there is between this account of the country on
the Murchison and that given by Mr. Austin may be accounted for in
several ways: first, Mr. Austin does not appear to have crossed, but
skirted the country intervening between Mount Welcome and Mount
Murchison, but he describes the land about the latter as improving, and
found water; while it was the feed and water at Mount Welcome which, in
all probability, saved his party from perishing. The land on the north
side, spoken of so favourably by Mr. Trigg, was not seen by Mr. Austin,
and also his party was so exhausted that it was out of his power to
diverge from a direct line in order to examine the nature of the country
on either side; whereas Messrs. Gregory and Trigg made such an
examination whenever any favourable appearance presented itself, and thus
determined the quantity of valuable land for a distance of six or seven
miles on each side of the river, and have thus been the means of
conferring on the Colony one of the greatest benefits it has received
since the northern district was first opened by Mr. A. Gregory.
***
GASCOYNE RIVER.
1858.
PERTH TO CHAMPION BAY.
In consequence of the very satisfactory results of the exploration of the
Upper Murchison River by Messrs. Gregory and Trigg in 1857, a number of
settlers in the northern districts subscribed horses and equipment for an
exploring party to examine the country still further to the east and
north, and with the sanction of the Government, the Expedition was placed
under the command of Mr. F.T. Gregory, the result being the discovery of
a considerable area of available country on the Gascoyne and Lyons
Rivers, as described in Mr. Gregory's journal, of which the following is
a copy:--
MR. F. GREGORY'S REPORT.
Western Australia,
Perth, July 26, 1858.
SIR,
In accordance with the instructions conveyed in your letter of the 15th
March, authorising me to take command of the Expedition to Shark's Bay,
in course of organisation by the northern settlers, I have the honour to
furnish the following report of our proceedings while in that service,
for the information of His Excellency the Governor.
The preliminary arrangements having been completed, and the heavy portion
of the stores forwarded by sea to Champion Bay, I left Perth on the 26th
March, accompanied by Mr. James Roe as second in command, chainer
Fairburn having started the previous day with the team and light
equipment of the Expedition.
Proceeding by way of Toodyay to the Irwin River, the party were joined by
Mr. W. Moore with three horses; passing on by way of Champion Bay, we
arrived a Koobijawanna, the point of general rendezvous, by the 10th of
April. On the 12th the remainder of the stores arrived from Champion Bay,
the party being augmented to six persons by the addition of Mr. C. Nairn
and Dugel, an aboriginal policeman. This day and the following were
occupied in weighing and packing stores, shoeing horses, etc.
14th April.
The equipment of the Expedition being completed (with the exception of
one horse to be procured at the Geraldine Mine), we moved on to
Yanganooka, passing the Geraldine Mine on the 16th, and bivouacked on the
Murchison River, six miles above the mine, having obtained the additional
horse, making in all six saddle and six pack horses; our supplies
consisting of sixty days' rations, on a scale of one and a half pounds of
flour, eight ounces of pork, four ounces of sugar, and half an ounce of
tea per diem, the party being all well armed and furnished with
ammunition.
The mean of our observations with the Aneroid barometer gives 575 feet
for the elevation of this part of the river above the sea.
ASCEND THE MURCHISON RIVER.
17th April to the 25th April.
Was occupied in ascending the Murchison River by easy stages to the
junction of the Impey, the highest point attained by me last year. The
only observations worthy of remark were that the inundation had not been
so great as that which occurred the previous summer, the grass up to this
point not being by any means so abundant as I had found it on my former
visit; the volume of water now running in the bed of the river being,
however, at this time about the same, although none of the tributaries,
including the Roderick and Impey, had been in flood, little or no rain
having fallen to the west of the 117th degree of longitude, except to the
north of latitude 26 degrees.
I availed myself of the opportunity afforded to make several additions
and corrections to the map of this part of the country, verifying the
correction made by me last year in the latitude of Mount Murchison and
adjacent hills. By an improved series of triangulation and a carefully
observed set of lunar distances, I am inclined to place Mount Murchison
in about longitude 116 degrees 30 minutes east, which makes it more
nearly approximate to the longitude formerly given by Mr. Austin.
The variation of the compass I found by several amplitudes to be 2
degrees 30 minutes west. The bed of the Murchison River is here about
1,077 feet above the sea. In addition to the fish and game formerly
observed on this part of the river, we met with large flocks of the
gallinule, which have for so many years excited the curiosity of the
colonists as to their habitat; from subsequent observations it is evident
they come from much further to the north-eastward. But one party of
natives had as yet been seen, consisting of eight or ten, who chased our
native Dugel to the camp while out shooting, but it was difficult to
ascertain whether with hostile intentions. From this time to our return
we regularly mounted sentry during the night, and no one was allowed to
quit the party any distance alone--a precautionary measure the necessity
of which was fully borne out by the sequel.
26th April.
From our camp, which was situated about eight miles west of Mount
Murchison, we fairly commenced the exploration of unknown country.
Following the river nearly north-north-east for fourteen miles it turned
abruptly to the east; we, however, held our course, which at four miles
further brought us to the foot of Mount Narryer, which we ascended, and
procured a valuable round of angles from its summit. This hill has an
altitude of 1,688 feet above the sea, and is formed by the eruption of a
coarse dark-coloured crystalline trap through a base of amorphous
sandstone, the direction of the range of which it forms a part being
nearly north and south. Skirting round the north end of this range, we
struck east over a stony plain, thinly grassed amongst open wattles, and
at five miles again came upon the Murchison some time after dark. The
pools here were somewhat larger than for many miles below, being from
sixty to eighty yards wide and half a mile in length, the water in them
becoming decidedly brackish; samphire, atriplex, and other salsolaceous
plants being abundant on the banks.
27th April.
We only advanced nine miles, owing to Mr. Moore and Dugel having to
return for one of the water-beakers, which had been torn off the
pack-saddle the previous night in a thicket. Towards our bivouac, which
was in latitude 26 degrees 23 minutes 38 seconds, the country near the
river improved much, the channel of the river becoming very shallow; the
water had spread over the flats for more than half a mile on either side,
large flooded-gum trees growing abundantly with a fine sward of grass
beneath, the soil being a rich brown clay loam. Gallinule and cockatoos
were in large flocks feeding on the grass seeds, which were now nearly
ripe.
28th April.
To latitude 28 degrees 7 minutes the river continued to come from north
by east through an extensive plain, bounded on the west by a low range of
trap and granite hills, at an average distance of six or seven miles,
while to the eastward only a few distant peaks were visible, flooded-gum
growing plentifully for more than a mile back from the river, on flats of
tolerably good pasture. Receding somewhat further from the river, the
country opens out into extensive plains yielding but little grass;
atriplex bush and thinly scattered stunted acacia and melaleuca trees
forming almost the entire vegetation.
29th April.
A few miles nearly north brought us to where a considerable tributary
joins the Murchison from the north, the river trending first north-east,
then east, and finally towards the afternoon it came from the southward
of east, our bivouac being only seven miles north of the previous night,
while we had made nearly eighteen miles of easting. The bed of the river
had gradually become more rocky as we ascended, gneiss with quartz dykes
passing through it and yielding a large quantity of salt, rendered the
running water of the river scarcely drinkable; the only fresh water was
found in the back channels filled by the late inundations. The ranges
which ran parallel to the river to the westward terminated some miles to
the north of the bend. Another range, apparently granitic and broken up
into detached peaks, commencing a little to the eastward of its
termination, runs east for about twenty miles at the distance of six or
seven miles from the north bank of the river.
To the eastward an elevated range with two conspicuous summits, which
were respectively named Mount Matthew and Mount Hale, terminated the view
in that direction, while to the south only a few detached peaks were
visible.
To-day we first observed a very beautiful convolvulus, which we
afterwards found to bear roots like a sweet potato, some of them more
than a pound weight and well flavoured, forming a very important article
of food to the natives. The flowers are numerous, and measure from two to
three inches in diameter, their outer edges of a dark lilac, deepening to
a rich purple at the centre, with a pale green convolute ribbing on the
outside, the stem and leaf of the plant resembling the kennedya. Mr.
Drummond, to whom I have described it, considers it an important
discovery, as by cultivation it might become a valuable addition to our
Australian esculents.
A small species of rock-melon was also found in great abundance about the
size of a pigeon's egg, somewhat bitter to the taste, but they were not
ripe; in other respects it much resembles the cultivated varieties.
The bed of the river at this night's bivouac had attained an elevation of
1,240 feet above the sea.
LEAVE THE MURCHISON FOR THE GASCOYNE RIVER.
30th April.
Finding that the Murchison was leading us too much to the eastward, the
object of the expedition being to reach the Gascoyne with as little delay
as possible, we quitted the river on a north-north-east course for about
eight miles over a tolerably grassy plain, in some parts open, with
atriplex and samphire, and in others rather thickly studded with acacia
and melaleuca. Ascending a granite hill of 150 feet elevation, the plain
was observed to the eastward to extend to the horizon, only broken by one
remarkable bold trap hill at the distance of twenty miles, which was
eventually named Mount Gould, the main Murchison flowing round its
southern base, while a considerable tributary from the north-east passed
close under it to the north-west. To the north of our position the
country rose into a succession of stony ridges thinly grassed and nearly
destitute of trees; in the valleys the kangaroo grass was tolerably
plentiful and quite green--a sufficient evidence that we had now arrived
within the influence of the rains that had produced the recent
inundation, which gave us every hope of being able to push across the
country intervening between this and the Gascoyne. We accordingly altered
our course to north-west for the remainder of this and the following day,
crossing several tributaries to the Murchison, in which we found plenty
of water, and on their banks an abundant supply of grass for our horses,
the streams being generally divided from each other by low stony ridges
or plains of red sandy loam, yielding a rather scanty supply of grass.
3rd May.
Having rested the party the previous day, it being Sunday, in latitude 25
degrees 33 minutes 48 seconds, at a fine pool of fresh water in a stream
running south, and apparently tributary to the Murchison, we resumed our
course for three or four miles up a branch of the stream upon which we
had been encamped, which terminated at a gentle stony ascent; another
mile brought us to its summit, which proved to be the watershed between
the Gascoyne and Murchison; its elevation was found to be 1,500 feet
above the sea. From this ridge a short descent northward led us to the
head of a watercourse, which we followed in the same direction for
seventeen miles, augmented by several small tributaries; turning to the
westward, it formed a junction with another river coming from the
eastward, in latitude 25 degrees 14 minutes 23 seconds, at an elevation
of 1,144 feet above the sea.
STONY PLAINS.
The country through which we had passed was a nearly level and barren
plain, evenly and closely paved with small stones, amongst which a few
stunted acacia found a precarious existence; to this portion of country
we gave the characteristic name of Macadam Plains.
GASCOYNE RIVER.
4th May.
The river we had encamped upon the preceding night had a level sandy
channel thirty-five yards wide, with several shallow pools in its bed; a
narrow belt of flooded-gum lined either bank, which also produced
abundance of excellent feed; several of the grasses were new to us,
yielding a large quantity of seed; further back the pasture was more
scanty, and of an inferior variety of grass, the trees consisting almost
entirely of small hakea or acacia.
The features of the country are generally very tame, with the exception
of a prominent hill of considerable altitude, nearly twenty miles to the
northward, to which we gave the name of Mount Gascoyne. The summit of
another range, of less elevation, a little to the northward of west,
distant fifteen miles, was called Mount Puckford.
Having decided upon following the left bank of the river, with the view
of ascertaining what tributaries might joint from the southward, we this
morning took our course for Mount Puckford, touching frequently upon the
bends of the river, which soon found a junction with a large channel
coming from the eastward, which ultimately proved to be the main
Gascoyne; it was still running in a small stream in the bottom of a sandy
bed, eighty yards wide, traces of recent heavy floods being plentiful. At
ten miles the river has broken through a ridge of opaline rocks, in
irregular masses, resembling flints, lying north-east and south-west, and
a few miles further coming in contact with the south-east foot of Mount
Puckford, it doubles back round its north-east base, and there takes a
general north-west course to latitude 24 degrees 36 minutes, and
longitude 116 degrees east, which we reached by noon of the 7th, a
considerable tributary joining at this point from the northward. A
compact sandstone range, resting on a granite base (which was named the
Lockier Range, after Mr. Lockier Burgess, one of the principal promoters
of the expedition), here diverts the course of the river to the left,
which, by sundown, we found was running nearly south. The country for the
last fifty miles varies but little in character, extensive open plains
alternating with low granite ridges; the banks of the river, which here
has acquired a width of 100 yards, with a depth of forty-six feet, being
in many places stony and cut down by deep muddy creeks, rendering
travelling both slow and laborious. Several tributaries join from the
north and south, all of which had very recently ceased to run.
To the north and east were several prominent peaks and ranges of trap
hills clothed with short herbage; to the highest of the former, a single
conical peak, with deeply serrated sides, was given the name of Mount
James, after my friend and fellow-traveller, Mr. James Roe; while two
lofty summits, far to the northward, were called Mount Samuel and Mount
Phillips.
The principal feed was found near the banks of the rivers, the back
country still yielding only a scanty supply of a red-coloured silky grass
of little value except when quite fresh. A tree resembling the sycamore
of the Murchison, but with the leaves arranged in triplets, and the seed
pods in the form of a large bean, grows near the river and attains to two
feet in diameter, with a height of forty feet; the wood is light and
spongy, something resembling the Nuytsia floribunda, but not gummy. It is
formed by the natives into shields, and near the coast into canoes. We
also found on some of the rocky hills a tree with fruit and flowers
resembling a small fig, the leaves like a lemon, but yielding an acrid
milky juice.
Several new species of crested quail and dark-brown pigeons were first
observed here; the beautiful small doves, common in the northern
districts, were also seen by thousands; gallinule and the elegant
Ochaphaps plumafera (crested pigeon of the marshes) were also very
numerous.
SURPRISE A NATIVE CAMP.
8th May.
Pursuing our course down the left bank, we crossed several stream-beds
which drain the large tract of country between this and the Murchison.
The Gascoyne here divides into several broad sandy channels, sometimes as
much as a mile apart. Towards evening we came upon a native encampment;
few of the men appeared to have returned from their day's hunting, but we
observed upwards of thirty women and children, who ran into the bed of
the river to hide, some of the women immersing their children completely
under water occasionally to prevent their cry of alarm attracting our
attention. Although we had before met with and spoken to several natives,
this was the first opportunity we had of examining into their domestic
economy. Around their fires, of which there were many, were ranged a
number of wooden scoops capable of holding from two to four quarts; these
contained a variety of seed and roots; the most plentiful was a species
of grain like small plump drake, gathered from a grass much resembling
wheat, which is very abundant on the alluvial flats, and a root
resembling an onion not larger than a pistol bullet, a few rats, which
are very numerous in the grassy flats, and a small variety of samphire
like a Hottentot fig, formed the principal portion of their evening's
repast.
The few weapons left by the men consisted of heavy spears, with from
three to eighteen barbs cut out of the solid wood, the shaft from ten to
twelve feet in length, large shields resembling those in use by the
natives at Champion Bay, made from the sycamore, and few skins of the red
kangaroo, formed their entire camp equipment.
A NIGHT ATTACK.
Leaving everything as we found it, we passed on about two miles and
encamped for the night on a low sandy island in the bed of the river,
which was here full of flooded-gums of large growth, there being just
sufficient grass for our horses immediately around our fire. By 9 o'clock
our supper had been disposed of, and I had just completed my observations
for latitude, when we heard the shouts of a large party of natives
approaching from the direction of their camp; leaving Mr. Roe with two
others to guard the camp, I advanced with Mr. Moore and Dugel to
ascertain the object of their visit, which we soon found to be evidently
hostile, as they came on rapidly, all well armed to the number of sixty
or seventy, the women and children retiring to some rocky ground, while
the men advanced lighting the large stacks of drift which were abundant
in this part of the river. When within about forty yards they halted a
moment, as we had damped our fire and they could not exactly make out our
position. Mr. Moore was in the act of removing his horse from the front
when a fresh fire enabled them to see us, upon which ten or twelve of the
leading men shipped their spears. Being still desirous, if possible, of
avoiding a collision, I hesitated to fire upon them; but observing a
large body of them advancing with the evident intention of attacking Mr.
Roe and his little party in charge of the camp, I advanced a few steps
and fired a charge of small shot at the leading men as they were in the
act of throwing at us. The effect was instantaneous and most salutary, as
they fled with some precipitation, some of them being evidently wounded.
We mounted extra guard for the remainder of the night, but they did not
again venture to attack us.
9th May.
Being Sunday, we only moved a few miles lower down the river for more
grass, and again found ourselves in close proximity to the natives. In
the course of the day several of them made their appearance at the top of
the hill overlooking the camp, but appeared afraid to molest us; they had
with them several large white dogs which were evidently of Australian
breed.
10th May.
The river took a south-west course, receiving two large tributaries from
the south-east, one of ninety and the other of fifty yards in width. The
flats were wider and large trees more abundant; the recent floods had,
however, been very destructive to the pasture, and removed much of the
soil for a considerable distance back from the river. The trap hills here
ceased to appear; the last remarkable one lay about ten miles south-east
of our morning's camp, and had been named Mount Dalgetty. Our evening's
bivouac was found to be in latitude 25 degrees 14 minutes, longitude 115
degrees 30 minutes east by account, and its elevation 700 feet above the
sea.
11th May.
Until noon our course along the river was nearly north-west, sandstones
beginning to crop out on the banks, and the country generally was poor
and scrubby; from our noon halt to sunset our course was nearly west, our
bivouac being in latitude 25 degrees 2 minutes. The bed of the river had
here widened out to 300 yards with an average depth of thirty feet, a
small stream running through the sand in the bottom. In addition to the
flooded-gum which grows here abundantly, we observed in the bed of the
river a melaleuca of large size, like a paper-bark tree, but having broad
leaves resembling the eucalyptus. During the night the natives were very
noisy in the vicinity, some of them approaching so close as to startle
our horses, keeping us well on the alert; the horses on this as on
several other occasions appear to have been our principal safeguard
against sudden attack.
FRIENDLY INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES.
12th May.
By the time we had commenced loading our horses, a large body of natives
had collected and approached to reconnoitre our camp; I advanced towards
them to keep them in check until the loads were completed. On observing
that I came alone three natives advanced to meet me, throwing three or
four spears at me in a friendly way, which I picked up and stuck in the
ground by my side; this token at once established a good understanding,
and after an exchange of presents they followed us for many miles down
the river before quitting us. Towards nightfall several of our friends of
the morning again made their appearance with a number of strange natives,
dodging us among the deep muddy ravines which abound at this part of the
river; their manoeuvres being equivocal and unsatisfactory, we kept well
on our guard; they, however, ran off at night, on my facing about on
horseback to drive them away.
Our course during the day had been nearly west twenty-two miles, one
large tributary having joined the river from the northward, which was
afterwards named the Lyons, in honour of the gallant admiral of that
name; this accession had increased the breadth of the channel to 400
yards. As we drew towards our evening's bivouac the river entered a gorge
formed by the river cutting through the south end of a flat-topped
sandstone range of about 1,200 feet elevation above the sea, presenting
many bold and picturesque outlines and detached summits, terminating in
abrupt and almost precipitous faces; to this we gave the name of the
Kennedy Range, in honour of our present Governor.
To the south a detached mass of broken sandstone hills gradually falls
away in the distance, apparently into a barren scrub similar to those on
the banks of the lower Murchison, while to the west lay before us an
extensive plain, unbroken by a single object save a few long ridges of
red drift sand, clothed with a stunted scrub of melaleuca and acacia. The
bottom of the gorge we found to be 480 feet above the sea.
13th May.
From this morning to noon of the 15th the country passed over was similar
to that first described, the sand ridges running north-west and
south-east at about a quarter of a mile apart; the river keeping a
general course of west-north-west, its channel deepening to sixty feet,
and maintaining an average width of 400 yards. Grass was only to be found
in small patches along the margin of the river; the accumulated waters of
the late inundations having been confined to one channel, had risen to
the height of forty-eight feet, carrying away many of the largest timber
trees, as also much of the soil from the banks, leaving a scene of
devastation exceeding anything of the kind I had hitherto witnessed.
A small description of Spanish reed was here first observed to grow on
the margin of the pools. Deep muddy creeks, having only short courses,
were very numerous, rendering travelling both tedious and intricate.
From noon of the 15th the country gradually opened out to a
thinly-grassed plain of light alluvial soil, atriplex bushes and acacia
widely scattered forming almost the entire vegetation; the ground, with
the exception of the bed of the river, being parched and dry, no rain
having fallen during the summer to the west of the Lyons River, in
longitude 115 degrees 30 minutes east.
16th May.
Being Sunday, we only moved four miles lower down the river for better
feed, the channel widening out to 600 yards.
17th May.
Early to-day the river began to throw off numerous channels to the north
and south, shedding, when in a flood, a considerable amount of water over
the adjoining plains, clothing the country in the garb of spring, the
grass growing luxuriantly along the numerous channels, atriplex and other
low bushes generally covering the plain, the lowest levels of which were
extensively covered with fields of mud from one to fourteen inches thick,
the deposit of a single inundation, yet scarcely hardened by the summer
sun.
REACH THE COAST AT SHARK'S BAY.
At twenty miles we ascended a sandy ridge of about sixty feet in height,
from which we had our first view of Shark's Bay, Babbage Island, and the
mouths of the Gascoyne, now only four miles distant.
Behind the ridge upon which we stood, and for many miles to the
south-east, the country was still under water from the recent floods,
while between us and the sea lay a low flat, on which were many patches
of acacia thicket, alternating with open grassy glades, or fields of
atriplex and samphire, terminating to the westward in a broad irregular
belt of mangroves, resting on the shallow margin of the bay.
Descending to the flat, we encamped in a rank patch of grass on the bank
of the river, about a mile above Babbage Island, the north end of which I
found to be in latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes, which is four miles north
of the position as given by Sir G. Grey.
KOLAINA PLAINS.
18th May.
We found no difficulty in crossing the southern mouth on to Babbage
Island; the tide being low, it was quite dry at the junction. Having,
with Mr. Roe, walked over the greater part of the island, making a rough
sketch of its outlines, and completing the requisite observations, while
the rest of the party were occupied in an unsuccessful attempt to catch
fish, we retraced our steps and crossed the main channel opposite our
last night's bivouac, where it is not more than 250 yards wide.
Continuing our course north-east for nearly a mile, we crossed several
back channels, some trending towards the Kolaina flat of Sir G. Grey,
while others were lost in the deep sandy ravines that extend for some
distance to the north of the river.
While on Babbage Island several natives had waded across the northern
mouth of the river to meet us, and had returned after a friendly
interview, in which they apparently described the recent landing of two
boats with Europeans. We now again fell in with the same natives on the
north bank, near a large encampment of women and children; the latter
quickly hid themselves on our approach, but the men assumed a threatening
attitude, following us for some distance with much clamour. As their
numbers quickly augmented, and they appeared determined to commence a
fight, we led them out on to an open plain, where, leaving the
pack-horses in charge of two of the party, four of us suddenly faced
about and charged them at a gallop. This harmless manoeuvre had the
desired effect, several of them having narrowly escaped being trodden
under foot by the horses. They were very quickly dispersed, and made no
further attempt to molest us. We encamped this night about six miles
above Babbage Island.
19th May.
As our object was to explore as far to the northward as circumstances
would allow, we left the river on a north-east course; but two hours'
ride across an open plain, through which several channels ran to the
north-west, brought us to dry barren scrubs, in which it appeared
hopeless we should find either feed or water; we accordingly altered our
course to south-east, and made the river again about sundown.
RETURN UP THE RIVER.
20th to 23rd May.
Was occupied in tracing up the north bank of the river in the hope of
finding a tributary coming in from the northward; but, with the exception
of one small stream which drains the western face of the Kennedy Range,
not a single tributary was met with until we arrived at the Lyons River,
a distance of more than ninety miles from Babbage Island. The country on
the north bank differs but little from that on the south, except that
travelling was somewhat easier.
THE LYONS RIVER. ALMA RIVER.
24th May.
Our horses having had a rest, the previous day being Sunday, we made an
early start, and by noon halted on the Lyons River, a short distance
above its confluence with the Gascoyne; its channel here was equal in
magnitude and similar in appearance to the main river; a small stream was
still flowing through the wide sandy bed, and gradually increased in
volume for nearly eighty miles up the river. Three miles to the north of
our midday halt Mr. Roe and myself ascended a deep sandstone peak, from
which we had a fine view of the Kennedy Range, the nearest part of which
lay about six miles to the west, extending for nearly thirty miles to the
northward; the eastern face presents an almost unbroken line of nearly
perpendicular sandstone, of probably 500 or 600 feet elevation. To the
north a few remarkable peaks served as valuable points to carry on our
triangulation, which had been continued almost uninterruptedly from Mount
Hope, on the Murchison.
To the east were several ranges of flat-topped hills, filling in the
space between the Lyons and the great southern bend of the Gascoyne;
while to the south, with the exception of a few very distant peaks, it
appeared, as far as the eye could reach, to be an uniform plain of open
but almost grassless scrub.
Having completed our round of angles, we struck south-east to a patch of
forest on the banks of the river, which we did not reach until sometime
after dark.
25th May.
From this point to latitude 23 degrees 56 minutes the Lyons maintains a
general course of north-north-east. The country passed over during to-day
had evidently been tolerably grassy, but the floods had been quite as
destructive here as on the Gascoyne, the bed of the river and flats for
half a mile on each side being mostly choked up or buried under fields of
fine white sand, which had been brought down by the inundations. In
several places we observed beds of gypsum and fossil shells with other
strong indications of the existence of coal in the vicinity. Bivouac in
latitude 24 degrees 41 minutes 18 seconds.
26th May.
A few miles along the river brought us to a gorge in the eastern edge of
the sandstones, to the east of which it opened out into extensive plains
in some parts well grassed, and in others much washed by the river.
Several trap and granite hills were visible at some distance to the
northward and eastward. Our bivouac was in latitude 24 degrees 31 minutes
0.5 seconds, about three miles south of a bold trap-range, the summit of
which was named Mount Sandiman.
27th May.
The country still maintained its variable character, travelling near the
river being exceedingly heavy on account of the sand. The morning had
been calm and sultry, but towards noon a strong breeze set in from the
north, bringing with it a dense cloud of fine red dust, against which it
was no easy matter to make head with our horses. Towards evening the
flats began to improve, and we halted for the night amongst fine grass;
melons and tobacco growing very luxuriantly. To-night it rained for about
two hours, clearing the atmosphere of its load of dust.
28th May.
Resuming our course up the river, at four miles we crossed a stream-bed
forty yards wide, coming in from the north-north-west, and in the course
of the day passed over several thin beds of opaque opalline rock resting
upon the sandstone. At our camp, which was in latitude 24 degrees 0.3
minutes 0.8 seconds, granite began to make its appearance in the bed of
the river.
29th May.
Our pack-horses having now been much lightened of their loads, we were
to-day for the first time able to trot for several hours; and as the
country still improved, several fine grassy valleys coming in from the
eastward, we made considerable progress.
ALMA RIVER.
At our noon halt Mr. Moore and myself ascended a hill of red schist of
300 or 400 feet elevation, in latitude 23 degrees 57 minutes 15 seconds,
which had been named Mount Thompson. From this hill we had an extensive
view of the surrounding country; close to the northern foot the river
divided into two nearly equal parts--one coming from the north-north-east
we named the Alma. To the north, just resting on the edge of the tropic,
lay a compact range through which there was apparently but one break, and
that was on the line of the Alma; from the southern face of this range,
which extends nearly forty miles to the eastward, numerous streams take
their rise and flow southward into the Lyons, which had altered its
course and was now coming from the east-south-east. Our intention had
been to keep our course until we had touched upon the tropic; but as the
Alma was not running, we decided upon following the main course of the
stream, and accordingly adopted an easterly course for the remainder of
the day, encamping about six miles to the east of Mount Thompson. The
river here was much narrower, with a rocky bed containing many pools of
permanent character, overshadowed by flooded-gums of large growth, much
resembling the Eucalyptus piperita of the flats of the Swan, but not
possessing the same pungent leaf.
30th May (Sunday).
Found our latitude to be 23 degrees 58 minutes 32 seconds, and longitude
111 degrees east by account.
31st May.
NATIVE TOBACCO.
We started off at a quick pace, clearing sixteen miles by noon, over some
fine open grassy flats, timbered for nearly a mile back from the river;
one tributary 100 yards wide having joined from the north, and a smaller
one from the south. Leaving the party busily occupied catching fish,
which were abundant in this part of the river and much resembling those
found in the Murchison, but larger, some of them being upwards of a pound
in weight, I walked with Mr. Nairn to the summit of a granite hill two
miles to the northward, from which I had a number of cross-bearings to
hills already observed from Mount Thompson. One of considerable elevation
bearing north 121 degrees 30 minutes east, distance fifty miles, lay
directly up the valley of the river, and was ultimately named Mount
Augustus, after my brother, now conducting the expedition in quest of the
remains of Dr. Leichhardt. Pushing on twelve miles further, we halted for
the night in latitude 23 degrees 59 minutes 39 seconds. Tobacco here grew
to sufficient size for manufacture, occupying many hundred acres of the
best land; a plant much resembling stramonium was also abundant on the
moist land, yielding a strongly offensive odour from its leaves.
1st June.
For the first twelve miles along the river the flats much improved, and
were only occasionally broken up by stony ridges; good country was seen
to extend up the tributaries, several of which came in from the north. To
the south, at two or three miles distant, and running parallel to the
river for many miles, was an even grassy range of moderate elevation
nearly destitute of trees or bushes; the acacia and melaleuca, which had
hitherto generally covered the plains, was evidently fast giving way to
an open undulating and thinly-grassed country, the back lands being
however still too stony to yield much pasture, the summer grass being
already parched and dry, the flats alone continuing moist and verdant.
At our noon halt the main river had ceased to flow, but a tributary
coming from the north-east had a small stream still running in the bottom
of a muddy channel down which the recent floods had brought flags and
portions of bulrush, the only instance throughout the district in which
we had observed them.
The next ten miles passed over between this and sunset was chiefly an
alluvial flat, much resembling the fertile lands near the mouth of the
Greenough; the acacias and several varieties of melaleuca, amongst which
was the Callistemon phoeniceus, with its beautiful scarlet flowers, were
growing with tropical luxuriance, the soil in many places being still
saturated with moisture. A water-melon was here first observed, the fruit
not attaining to more than two inches in length, but not otherwise
differing from the cultivated kinds; we also found a fruit in shape like
a pear, three inches in length, growing on a small creeper, the interior
of the fruit consisting of a number of small flat seeds, to which were
attached a bundle of long silky fibres resembling cotton. Our bivouac was
in latitude 24 degrees 7 minutes 52 seconds, near a fine pool of fresh
water, with limestone cropping out in a thin bed on the banks; we had
frequently met with it distributed in small nodules scattered over a
large portion of the country on the Upper Murchison.
Since quitting the mouth of the Gascoyne we had seen natives almost
daily; to-night we again found ourselves in close proximity to a large
encampment of them.
2nd June.
Our neighbours paid us an early visit this morning, some of them
evidently bent on mischief, but were restrained by others more
prudent--not, however, before it had nearly cost one of them his life;
having pointed a spear at Mr. Moore, Dugel, whose natural instincts are
very destructive, hastily took aim at him, but fortunately pulled the
wrong trigger, which just gave his adversary time to lower his weapon; on
our mounting our horses they hastily fell back and joined their other
companions at their camp, which was just in our line of march; about
thirty of them awaited our approach with some tokens of defiance, but
most of them decamped on our coming within spear's throw.
MOUNT AUGUSTUS 3,480 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
Directing our course for Mount Augustus, we pushed on at a rapid pace
with the object of ascending it if possible before sundown; but after
riding twenty miles, we found it to be farther off than we anticipated,
and accordingly altered our course and encamped at a pool in the river
about three miles north-east of the mount, in latitude 24 degrees 20
minutes, and at an elevation of 1500 feet above the sea.
We here met with strong evidences of the cannibalism of the natives; at a
recently occupied encampment we found several of the bones of a
full-grown native that had been cooked, the teeth marks on the edges of a
bladebone bearing conclusive evidence as to the purpose to which it had
been applied; some of the ribs were lying by the huts with a portion of
the meat still on them.
Nearly the whole of the country passed over this day was an alluvial flat
extending on the south-west to the grassy range already described, while
to the north and east it extended for many miles, branching out into the
numerous valleys that drain the different ranges in that direction; the
grass and vegetation on these flats is not so rank as on that traversed
the previous day, but more even, and the soil better adapted for
agriculture; the amount of good land on this part of the Lyons River was
estimated at 150 square miles, while on the tributaries between Mount
Thompson and Mount Augustus I have no doubt that there is as much more.
Water at this time was plentiful in the numerous channels that intersect
the plain, their permanency being the only matter of doubt--our limited
acquaintance with the nature of the seasons in these latitudes does not
enable us to decide with any degree of certainty; the pools lower down
the river are unquestionably of a permanent character, but many of them
were already becoming brackish.
The quantity of game seen in this part of the country was also a
favourable indication. Turkeys, and a new variety of pigeon, having a
brown back and slate-coloured breast, on the wing resembling a tame
pigeon, congregate in flights sometimes of a thousand together; emus,
cockatoos, quail, and parakeets are also very numerous, particularly the
latter.
3rd June.
A gentle ascent of two and a half miles brought us to the foot of Mount
Augustus, where, leaving our horses in charge of Fairburn and Dugel, we
commenced the ascent up the only accessible point on this side of the
hill; it required two hours' heavy toil to bring us to the summit, the
barometer gradually falling until it only registered 26.10, which,
compared with the simultaneous observations kept at Champion Bay by Mr.
H. Gray, gives an elevation of 3,480 feet above the level of the sea; the
last 500 feet of the summit being clothed in thickets of melaleuca,
amongst which grew a nondescript variety of red gum-tree, the only new
thing observed in this locality. The air was fortunately very clear,
enabling us to take bearings to almost every remarkable summit within
eighty miles, and in two instances to hills more than a hundred miles
distant.
From this commanding position I was enabled to sketch in the courses of
the rivers for more than twenty miles, some of them probably taking their
rise from 60 to 100 miles still further to the eastward. To the
north-east the country continued to improve in appearance until the view
was intercepted by bold ranges of trap and granite--one of which bearing
north 32 degrees east magnetic, distant nearly 100 miles, having a sharp
volcanic outline, reared its summit above all the rest. To the south-east
the country was not quite so promising, the ridges presenting naked stony
outlines, upon which was only a little scanty grass or a few bushes; to
the south it was almost an uninterrupted plain, extending nearly as far
as the Murchison River, over which lay our homeward course. Descending
the mount, we encamped at a spring in some fine feed close at its foot.
RETURN TOWARDS SETTLEMENTS.
4th June.
As we had now been out fifty-one days, and our provisions were only
calculated to last twenty-four days longer, although we had reduced our
allowance shortly after quitting the Geraldine Mine, we were reluctantly
compelled to turn our steps homewards, being still 360 miles from the
settled districts; passing, therefore, over the eastern foot of Mount
Augustus, we pursued a south-south-east course for twenty miles over
alternating grassy plains and stony ridges, and encamped on the river
with a sandy bed, in which were a few shallow pools, its trend bearing
north-north-west, and probably joins the Gascoyne near the Lockier Range.
The feed on this river, as well as on those between this and the
Murchison, was principally kangaroo-grass of strong growth; the course of
the streams being easily traceable from a distance by the flooded-gum
trees that invariably lined their margins.
5th June.
A south course of ten miles over a poor stony country brought us to the
head of a stream, which, following in the same direction to latitude 24
degrees 51 minutes 52 seconds, we found plenty of feed on its banks and
pools of water in its bed, which was here thirty yards wide; the
principal features of the adjacent country being low granite ridges,
intersected by occasional quartz dykes, alternating with chlorite schist.
6th June (Sunday).
7th June.
Following a south-south-east course, at six miles the stream turned to
the south-west. Passing over several miles of stony country, in latitude
24 degrees 59 minutes 32 seconds, we crossed another stream-bed forty
yards wide, running to the westward, and forming a junction with the last
at some miles distant. Towards sundown we came upon a recently inundated
plain, and a mile further struck a grassy channel thirty yards wide,
which had barely ceased running, the soil for some distance on either
bank being a strong red loam, yielding a fair supply of pasture. This
channel we afterward found to be only one of several which formed the
main branch of the Gascoyne. The observed latitude was 25 degrees 6
minutes 30 seconds, and elevation 1,740 feet above the sea.
8th June.
A mile farther we came upon the main channel of the river, with a wide
shallow bed, down which a small stream was still running; the flats were
well grassed, and the flooded-gums growing for more than a mile back from
the river. To the eastward the country continued level and grassy as far
as the eye could reach; our time was, however, too limited to admit of
our making any further examination of this promising tract. A party of
twenty or thirty natives were encamped here, and were apparently living
upon the roots of the convolvulus, which grows in the vicinity in great
abundance.
For fifteen miles to the south-east it continued a level plain of red
loam, tolerably well grassed and covered with an open wood of acacia; the
next eight miles was over a poor stony ridge of moderate elevation,
terminating at a large dry stream-bed, in latitude 25 degrees 24 minutes
16 seconds, with some fine kangaroo-grass on its banks.
9th June.
Ten miles south, over a granite country, we struck the head of a
watercourse, which, after winding about for sixteen miles, ran close to
the western foot of Mount Gould, where we encamped at its junction with
another small stream coming from the northward. The country passed over
to-day was generally very stony until we came within a few miles of Mount
Gould.
10th June.
Taking our course direct for Mount Hale, the pasture rapidly improved; at
ten miles the watercourse we had been following formed a junction with
the main Murchison, coming in from the eastward. From the appearance of
the river at this point, it is probable that it takes its rise nearly
another 100 miles farther to the north-east. The next thirteen miles down
the river was fair average cattle pasture, extending for several miles to
the right and left; open flats of atriplex and samphire occurring at
intervals.
11th June.
The river soon divided into several channels, shedding its waters over a
fine alluvial flat, of considerable extent, yielding a rich sward of
grass, under flooded-gums of large growth. A little after noon we came
upon our outward track, and encamped at night near the north-west bend of
the Murchison.
DOWN THE MURCHISON.
12th to 22nd June.
Was occupied in descending the river to the Geraldine Mine, cutting off
several bends of the river, and making such additions to our sketch of
the outward route as circumstances would admit.
RETURN TO PERTH.
23rd June.
We all arrived safe at the hospitable residence of Mr. W. Burges, on the
Irwin; the following day being occupied in making up the accounts
connected with the expedition, which, including the whole of the cash
expenditure, did not exceed 40 pounds, which sum had already been
subscribed by a few settlers interested in the undertaking.
Quitting the Irwin on the 1st of July, and proceeding by way of
Dandaragan and Toodyay, I arrived, with Mr. Roe and chainer Fairburn, in
Perth on the 10th instant, having accomplished a journey of nearly 2000
miles in 107 days.
On reviewing the foregoing report, I find it necessary to add a few
observations on subjects that could not well be introduced into the body
of the narrative.
GEOLOGY OF COUNTRY.
In the first place, viewing the geographical and geological features in
combination, the tract of country contained within the 114th and 118th
parallels of longitude, and the 24th and 27th degrees of south latitude,
may be considered as an inclined plane, the eastern edge of which has an
elevation of about 1700 feet above the level of the sea. Commencing from
the coast, the first 100 miles is almost exclusively of tertiary
sandstone formation, which the process of denudation has, in many
instances, converted into either stony or sandy tracts, rarely fertile,
except when subject to the influence of frequent inundation. This region
seldom gives rise to rivers or watercourses; the flat-topped ranges,
which are often found towards the eastern limits of this formation, do
not generally exceed 500 or 600 feet in altitude, and are only those
portions of country that have not as yet yielded to the waste of time, or
the constant action of rivers, which, rising in the higher lands more to
the eastward, rapidly abrade, and in their onward course remove the soft
and porous sandstone from their bases.
In the deeper valleys, towards the eastern edge of these sandstones thin
beds of oolitic limestone, containing numerous fossil shells,
occasionally occur; also gypsum and clayey shales, with other indications
of the probable existence of coal in the vicinity; following the series
appears a compact, fine-grained amorphous sandstone, having an almost
flinty fracture; this rock, in a few miles, gives place to granite and
gneiss, frequently broken up by the upheaval of whinstone and porphyritic
trap hills, having an elevation of from 100 to 500 feet above the plain.
As we proceeded eastward, the eruptive rocks became more numerous;
chlorite slate, veins of quartz, chert, and variegated jasper, frequently
forming the summits of the most elevated hills, while, on the general
level of the plain, are occasionally found thin beds of ancient lava.
The rivers, unlike most others in Western Australia, have nearly an even
fall throughout their entire length, amounting on an average to six feet
per mile; this, in a country subject to the sudden fall of almost
tropical rains, is what gives rise to the destructive inundations already
described.
CLIMATE.
Of the climate and seasons so little is at present known that, allowing
all other difficulties to have been overcome, it would be very hazardous
to risk flocks and herds beyond the head of the Murchison until the
country has again been visited at a different period of the year, as it
is probably that it has as yet only been seen under the most favourable
conditions.
The fluctuations of the temperature are occasionally considerable; in the
middle of June it some days amounted to 46 degrees in six
hours--registering, at 7 a.m., 36 degrees, and at 1 p.m., 82 degrees; ice
having been seen as far north as latitude 24 degrees 30 minutes.
The prevailing winds during the period of inundation appear to have been
from the south-east, as most of the trees blown down while the soil was
in a state of saturation lay with their tops to the north-west. In May
and June the winds ranged between north-east and south-east.
Of the regularity of the return of the summer rains it is at present
difficult to form a decided opinion; but, as far as observation would
admit, I am inclined to think they cannot be relied on with any degree of
certainty, to the southward of the 25th degree of latitude. The period at
which they fall being about January and February, it is a significant
fact that the grasses found buried beneath the mud during these months
had generally attained only to nearly half their growth.
AREA OF AVAILABLE COUNTRY.
With regard to the quantity and distribution of the available lands, it
will only be necessary to observe that, with the exception of 30,000 or
40,000 acres at the mouth of the Gascoyne, there is no land worth
occupying for many years to come to the west of the Lyons River; the
amount of land on this river has already been estimated at nearly 300
square miles, while on the Upper Gascoyne and its tributaries there is
probably double that quantity; this, with the lands on the Murchison near
Mount Hale, would make a total of about a million of acres.
A very important circumstance in connection with this district is the
total absence, so far as we were able to observe, of any of the varieties
of gastrolobium or euphorbia, which constitute the poisonous plants so
fatal to cattle and sheep in other parts of the colony.
The means of access to the Upper Gascoyne and Lyons is another important
matter for consideration. I am inclined to think that this district
cannot be advantageously settled until the tract of country between it
and the north coast has been explored, and a port established somewhere
between Exmouth Gulf and Depuch Island, as, should the country in that
direction fulfil its promise, the intervening space would very quickly be
filled up, and the lands on the Gascoyne become available, its distance
from the north coast being about 200 miles, while from Port Gregory or
Champion Bay would not be less than from 340 to 360 miles--a difference
of some moment in the transport of stores or produce.
From the lay of the country to the northward of the Lyons River there
does not appear to be any reason to suppose that a river of any magnitude
falls into Exmouth Gulf, as there would be hardly room for it between the
sources of the Alma and the rivers flowing to the north coast.
I cannot bring my report to a conclusion without recording my
acknowledgments to Mr. James Roe for the able and effective assistance he
has rendered me throughout the expedition, the barometrical observations
and management of the provision department having been especially under
his charge.
My best thanks are also due to Mr. W.D. Moore and Mr. C. Nairn, who on
every occasion endeavoured to relieve me as much as possible from some of
the many arduous duties that usually devolve on the leader of an
exploring party. Chainer Fairburn and the native Dugel also gave general
satisfaction in the performance of their respective duties.
I may add that to the ready cooperation and unanimity that prevailed
throughout the party may in no small degree be ascribed the successful
issue of the undertaking.
I have the honour to be, Sir, etc.,
F.T. GREGORY,
Assistant Surveyor.
To the Honourable the Surveyor-General, etc.
***
NORTH-WEST COAST.
1861.
ORIGIN OF EXPEDITION TO NORTH-WEST AUSTRALIA.
The important additions to geographical discovery, and the large extent
of valuable pastoral country that had been found on the Gascoyne River
and its tributaries, attracted the attention of a number of English
capitalists interested in cotton manufactures, which were then in a very
depressed condition in consequence of the civil war in America, it was
proposed to establish a new colony on the north-west coast of Australia,
having for its special object the cultivation of cotton.
Advantage was taken of the presence of Mr. F. Gregory in London to urge
on the Home Government and the Royal Geographical Society the
desirability of fitting out an expedition to proceed direct to the
north-west coast of Australia, accompanied by a large body of Asiatic
labourers, and all the necessary appliances for the establishment of a
colony.
Under the advice of Captain Roe, Surveyor-General of Western Australia,
and other gentlemen well acquainted with the subject, the scheme was
modified so as to have the country explored as a preliminary to actual
settlement, and for this purpose a grant of 2000 pounds was obtained from
the Imperial Government, to be supplemented by an equal subsidy by the
Colonial Treasury.
Accordingly Mr. Gregory obtained a suitable outfit for the party in
London, and early in 1861 proceeded to Western Australia to confer with
the Governor as to the requisite details; but owing to the delays caused
by a part of the funds having to be provided by a vote of the local
Legislature, the expedition did not finally leave Fremantle until 23rd
April, 1861--nearly two months later in the season than it should have
done, as the rainy season in North-west Australia terminates about the
beginning of March.
The following is an abstract of the journal and report of Mr. Gregory to
the Governor of Western Australia:--
JOURNAL OF THE NORTH-WEST AUSTRALIAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.
20th April, 1861.
All the preliminary arrangements in Perth having been completed, and the
stores and equipment of the expedition already sent on board the barque
Dolphin, I proceeded to Fremantle and shipped the ten horses that had
been furnished by the settlers in this part of the colony; the remainder
of the hay and water being also completed by 2 p.m., we were prepared to
sail, when the agent for the vessel raised objections to our departure,
on the plea that the arrangements for the payments on account of the
charter were not satisfactory. Wrote accordingly by express to the
Private Secretary for an acknowledgment that the requisite documents were
complete.
21st April.
Received reply from the Private Secretary to the effect that everything
necessary had been approved of already by the Governor; the agent would
not, however, allow the vessel to leave until he had actually received
the first instalment on account of the charter from the Colonial
Treasurer.
22nd April.
Accompanied Mr. Manning and Captain Dixon to Perth, when they were
informed by the Colonial Treasurer that the money would be forthcoming on
the presentation of the accounts. Returned to Fremantle, where we were
detained for the remainder of the day to enable the agent to close his
accounts.
23rd April.
Went on board the Dolphin at 7 a.m., and by 11 a.m. got underweigh, with
a fresh breeze from the east-north-east, and stood to the
north-north-west. The portion of the exploring party embarked at
Fremantle comprised the following persons: F.T. Gregory, commander; J.
Turner, assistant and storekeeper; E. Brockman, W.S. Hall, and J.
McCourt, assistants; and A. James, farrier. Supplies of flour, salt pork,
dried beef, preserved meat, bacon, sugar, tea, etc., sufficient for eight
months, were provided for a party of nine; three more volunteers and ten
horses having yet to be taken on board at Champion Bay.
24th April.
Light winds from the north; at noon sighted land, in latitude 31 degrees
28 minutes 12 seconds south; all hands attending to horses.
25th April.
Experienced variable and contrary winds; made but little progress.
26th April.
Weather cloudy, winds unfavourable; had a distant view of Mount Lesueur.
CHAMPION BAY.
27th April.
Sighted Mount Hill soon after daylight, rain and squalls rendering it
difficult to distinguish the coast; the weather clearing up, ran into
Champion Bay, and came to anchor by noon, half a mile north of the jetty,
in four fathoms; landed and procured a horse from the Government
Resident, and rode out to Mr. K. Brown's station.
28th April.
Procured a horse for the expedition from Mr. W. Moore, on account of
Hamersley and Company, and returned with it to the Bay.
29th April.
Sent round to the rest of the subscribers of horses to the expedition;
party employed filling up ship's water-tanks.
30th April.
Mr. J. Harding arrived, as a volunteer, with two horses from Mr. W.
Burges; also Mr. M. Brown, as a volunteer, with one horse. The following
gentlemen also sent horses: Messrs. J.S. Davis, 2; F. DuBoulay, 1; C. von
Bibra, 1; H. Gray, 1; M. Morrissey, 1; and J. Drummond, 12 sheep. Mr. P.
Walcott joined as a volunteer for the collection of specimens of natural
history and botany. Ship's crew employed discharging the remainder of the
cargo from England, consigned to Champion Bay.
1st May.
With the assistance of a number of gentlemen who kindly volunteered their
aid, the ten additional horses were safely swum off to the Dolphin;
Captain Dixon and his crew being employed landing a steam-engine. Wrote
to His excellency the Governor, reporting intention to sail to-morrow.
CHAMPION BAY TO NICKOL BAY.
2nd May.
Wrote to the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, reporting
progress of the expedition. Transferred order for twenty sheep,
subscribed by J. Williams, to Mr. T. Burges. Took on board twelve sheep
sent by Mr. Drummond, and closed accounts at the bay. Party fitting up
mangers, etc. At 5.30 p.m. got underweigh and stood to the north-west,
the soundings for five miles varying from three and three-quarters to
seven fathoms; the sea breaking heavily for about a mile in a northerly
direction from the end of the sheltering reef, showing a much greater
extent of shoalwater than is noted on the charts. Established a routine
of watches of two hours each, for the members of the expedition to attend
upon the horses.
3rd May.
By observations at noon, found the latitude to be 26 degrees 53 minutes
south; longitude 112 degrees 33 minutes east. Party preparing equipment,
drying horse-slings, etc. Wind light from south-east.
4th May.
Putting pack-saddles together, covering water-belts, etc.; light wind
from south, ship making from one to four knots; course north by east.
Increased allowance of water to horses from four or five gallons each, on
account of the heat of the hold. Killed a sheep.
Latitude at noon, 25 degrees 40 minutes south; longitude 112 degrees 1
minute east.
5th May (Sunday).
Held Divine service; passed through several drifts of seaweed at noon, in
latitude 25 degrees 43 minutes 34 seconds south, longitude 112 degrees 5
minutes east, showing a southerly current of nearly two miles per hour;
cloudy, with light winds from south-east and south.
6th May.
At noon sighted Cape Cuvier, bearing east twenty miles; latitude 23
degrees 52 minutes; longitude 112 degrees 53 minutes east; current of
nineteen miles south in twenty-four hours.
7th May.
North-west Cape was visible at noon, bearing east three-quarters north,
distant twenty-five miles; our latitude being 22 degrees south; and
longitude 113 degrees 18 minutes east. The Cape appears to have an
elevation of 500 or 600 feet, and to be of a sandstone formation; the
soil back of the hills appearing good, and clothed at this period of the
year with an abundance of grass, wattles of large growth and flooded-gum
trees growing on the slopes; the character of some of the lower hills and
valleys is that of a mineral district.
8th May.
Passed through many patches of drifting seaweed coming from the eastward.
Light south-east winds and cloudy weather.
Latitude 20 degrees 24 minutes south; longitude 114 degrees 37 minutes
east, at noon.
9th May.
Richie's Reef cannot be in the position shown on the charts, as we sailed
over it, and saw no broken water. At noon found our latitude to be 19
degrees 58 minutes south; longitude 115 degrees 23 minutes east; light
winds from the south-east, and a current of half a mile per hour setting
to the west or north-west.
10th May.
At daylight sighted Legendre Island to the south-east, distant ten miles.
Ran east-north-east till 10 a.m., with fresh breeze; tacked to south-west
with wind at east; by noon it fell calm, having fetched to within ten
miles of the north end of Delambre Island. At 5 p.m. a light wind from
the north-west enabled us to run in and drop anchor at 6.0 in thirteen
fathoms, the south end of Delambre bearing east about three miles; at
11.0 a strong breeze sprung up from the south-east, freshening to a gale
by 2 a.m. of the 11th. Tide setting to south-west at four miles per hour,
with a rise of sixteen feet.
STRONG TIDES PREVENT LANDING.
11th May.
The gale continued to 11 a.m., when it moderated; the tide being full at
about noon. Got underweigh at 1 p.m., and stood to the south-west, under
topsails, stemming a strong ebb tide to 3.30, when we came to anchor in
five fathoms (sand and shells), about three miles from the western shore
of the bay, Sloping Head bearing north by east five miles. The water of
the bay is much discoloured, being of a deep reddish-brown. In passing
down the shore we observed that the whole of what is shown on the chart
as a promontory, extending to the north of Sloping Head, is an island,
with a channel nearly half a mile wide, separating it from the main; to
the outer portion was given the name of Dolphin Island. At 4 p.m. left
the ship in the life boat, accompanied by Captain Dixon, Mr. Hall, and
four men, and took soundings for six miles to the south-west down the
centre of the bay, finding five and six fathoms all the way; the water
then shoaled to three fathoms, when, being within a mile of the head of
the bay, it became dark. Pulling about two miles to the south-east, it
gradually shoaled to one foot, when we grounded, and remained there till
11 p.m., when the tide being at full we pulled for the ship, but not
seeing her lights by 1 a.m. on the 12th, and the men being much fatigued,
we lay on our oars for an hour, and then took a stretch for two miles to
the south-south-east, to get under the shelter of the south-east shore of
the bay, when, having no anchor, we lay-to till daylight, by which time
the boat had drifted into heavy rollers under the high rocky land at the
south-west head of the bay; the wind having risen so much that the boat
was only kept afloat by keeping her head to the sea. As we could not
observe any spot at which we could land without the risk of swamping the
boat and wetting our firearms, we continued pulling towards the ship, the
ebb tide assisting us until 2 p.m., when just as all hands were becoming
thoroughly tired out, a boat was sent from the Dolphin to our relief,
with a timely supply of biscuit and brandy, which, with the assistance of
a tow-line, enabled us to reach the ship by 3 p.m., very thankful that we
had escaped what at one time appeared likely to have proved a serious
disaster.
LANDING EFFECTED.
13th May.
In the morning it blew so fresh from the eastward that Captain Dixon did
not like to move the vessel until 2 p.m., when we stood to the south for
about four miles, and came to anchor in four fathoms. Taking the
life-boat and cutter, both well-manned, we pulled south to the shore
about three miles, the water gradually shoaling until at half a mile from
the shore the boats grounded on a sandbank, from which we walked, through
mud, shells, and coral, to a belt of mangroves about fifty yards through,
behind which rose a sandbank about thirty feet high, covered with flowers
and coarse grass; from this to the foot of a range of rugged metamorphic
sandstone, a distance of half a mile, was an open, undulating, loamy
plain, covered with grass just arriving at maturity, a few small wattles,
hakea, and white-gum trees. As the sun had now set, we had only just time
to ascend a few hundred feet up the rocky ridge, from which elevation
could be discerned a sheet of water about a mile to the eastward, which
we attempted to reach, but it became so dark that it was found better to
return to the boats, which were now high and dry. By 8 p.m. the tide had
risen sufficiently to admit of Captain Dixon's return to the Dolphin,
while I remained with a portion of my own party to make further
examination in the morning; the leaky state of the cutter keeping one of
us bailing through the night.
14th May.
With Messrs. Turner, Brown, Harding, and Brockman, landed at 7 a.m., and
walked to the sheet of water observed last night, but found it only a
tidal inlet, terminating in a salt marsh. Continuing on our course for
five miles to the south-east, across a grassy plain, the soil being a
light brown loam, with occasional patches of quartz and gneiss pebbles,
and beds of limestone in irregular nodules, in an hour and a half arrived
at a deep stony watercourse, containing some small pools of brackish
water. This stream was followed up to the southward about a mile, but
found to be dry, and did not appear to come from a greater distance than
twenty miles. This river was named the Nickol. The country to the south
not being very promising, we turned to the westward, recrossing the plain
more to the south, passing several hollows, in which the rainwater had
very recently rested, leaving a rich alluvial deposit from which had
sprung up a splendid sward of grass, which was still quit
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